Domain Review Bayside & Port Phillip - November 15, 2023 by Domain Magazines

B AY S I D E & P O R T P H I L L I P

NOVEMBER 15, 2023

I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H

F E AT U R E

Please Wreck This Chef ’s Cookbook Rumi founder Joseph Abboud wants you to cook his recipes, not just look at them.

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CONTENTS

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Editor: Jo Walker Assistant editor: Gitika Garg Design lead: Ben Siero Designer: Ella Witchell Sub editors: Michelle Goldsmith, Miriam Kauppi, Adeline Teoh, Annie Toller Writers: Lucy Bell Bird, Holly Bodeker-Smith, Ruby Harris, Sasha Murray, Shannon Valentine, Jenny Valentish Photographers: Jessie Evans, Amy Hemmings, Kaede James Takamoto, Ashley Ludkin, Jo McGann, Peter Tarasiuk, Jamie Wdziekonski

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Apparently with most cookbooks, readers will try two or three recipes and then call it a day. The purpose of these books is to serve as inspiration (or intimidation?) and look good on a shelf. Not so Joseph Abboud’s new volume, Rumi. The Melbourne chef – and this week’s cover star – says his unpretentious recipes are designed to be made imperfectly and still be tasty. Which is what home cooking’s all about. Jo Walker Broadsheet Editor

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CONTENTS

Back Chat with Amyl & the Sniffers PAG E 7

Home Of The Week PAG E 1 0

Feature: Joseph Abboud PAG E 1 3

“I’ve come to realise that hospitality is one of the few jobs that gives you joy, whether it’s a great interaction with a customer or another staff member. With hospitality, you either get it or you don’t.”

Neighbourhoods: Kooyong

Feature: Rumi’s Joseph Abboud

PAG E 1 6

PAG E 1 3

Studio Visit with DNJ Paper PAG E 1 8

Property Listings PAG E 2 1

November 15, 2023

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FOR STARTERS

NOW OPEN

THREE OF A KIND

Chocolate babkas In the words of Seinfeld Seinfeld’s Elaine Benes, “You can’t beat a babka.” Originating in Jewish communities in 19th-century Poland, the babka has evolved over time. Melbourne Jews have been making it for generations – passing on recipes, putting their own spins on the creation and serving it up at home. Now, we’re spoilt for choice across Melbourne bakeries and delis, especially when it comes to a choc twist. — RH

Ruben’s Deli, Armadale

Vue de Monde 55 Rialto Towers, 525 Collins Street, Melbourne Aviv Cakes & Bagels, Elsternwick

Vue de Monde, one of Melbourne’s most revered fine-dining institutions, along with sibling venue Lui Bar on the Rialto Tower’s 55th floor, are officially open again after closing in July for a far-reaching, state-of-the-art renovation. The renewal – led by multi-award-winning architecture firm Elenberg Fraser – includes a cutting-edge upgrade to the venue’s cooking equipment, and the white tiles in the kitchen have been replaced with moody black textured ones. The changes to the dining room are subtle; the overall feel remains the same. Kangaroo-hide tables have been reupholstered, burnt jarrah wood appears throughout the restaurant, and completely new lighting has been installed. Diners can also expect a revamped menu, with the exception of the restaurant’s signature soufflé. Additions include a radish broth with fermented koji, an avocado tart, and a dish of roomtemperature caviar served on a macadamia purée. — AP Photo: Ashley Ludkin

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To Be Frank, Elsternwick

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READ ME

IN THE DIARY

Ficifolia

Undiscovered Victoria

MPavilion

Founded by Sophie Marcoux, perfume label Ficifolia is an ode to the relaxed Australian lifestyle. Its debut collection features three perfumes – housed in elegant glass vessels with white bulbed lids – capturing experiences familiar to many Melburnians. Out of Office is inspired by afterwork Aperol Spritzes on the Yarra, Rose Street calls to mind vintage shopping in Fitzroy, while Intermission is an earthy love letter to Melbourne’s nightlife. Since fragrances can be so personal, there’s also a try-before-you-commit service. — SM

Online guide One Hour Out, which showcases the best of regional Victoria, is putting its many years of exploration onto paper with Undiscovered Victoria. Full of stunning photos and creative itineraries, it’ll have you planning your next road trip right away – whether you’re interested in art, food, nature, walks or history. Uncovering secret destinations and sharing chats with locals, the book is dedicated to community spirit, diverse lifestyles and landscapes, and creativity across the state. — SV

Every year, a temporary architectural structure pops up in the Queen Victoria Gardens as a hub for artworks, design projects and events. This season, MPavilion marks its 10th edition with 10 commissions spanning different disciplines. Renowned Japanese contemporary architect Tadao Ando – whose work is known for its interplay of light and sensitivity to surrounding landscapes – is this year’s official pavilion designer. The event is split into three themes across five months, with talks and community projects to get involved in. — GG

$189.99 / ficifolia.com

$45 45 / hardiegrant.com

Nov 16–Mar 16 28 / Queen Victoria Gardens, Melbourne / mpavilion.org

HOME MAKER Flint Ever gone to light a beautiful candle, then looked down and felt mildly defeated by the ugly firesparker in your hand? Flint founder Chloe Mehrtens decided to make something better: a rechargeable electric version that’s luxe, minimalist and cuts down on waste. “I really love buying nice candles, and I was like, ‘I don’t understand why there’s nothing nice to light them with, and nothing more sustainable’,” she says. Available in gold or gunmetal, Flint lighters are made to leave on display rather than shove out of sight. — JW shopflint.co

November 15, 2023

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SNACK BAR by Audrey Payne

in atest The l e ourn Melb news food

STREET STYLE Armstrong Street, Middle Park

Name: Toor Age: 47 Occupation: Relationship manager What are you wearing today? The shoes are Nike and I just bought them in Kuala Lumpur, the pants are Diesel from Singapore and the top I got in India. The pocket square is Paul Smith. Rather than a proper pocket square though, it has to be a handkerchief in case a lady needs it – you can pull it out and it still makes you look cool. How would you describe your style? It’s your vision – I think everyone has a vision of themselves. So, when you put yourself together, I think it looks good.

Colin Wood, a former Cumulus Inc chef now based in Sydney, has been making Jersey cheese under the label Goldstreet Dairy. The haloumi-like cheese – crafted from fresh milk that travels paddock to cheese basket in just 18 hours – is now available in Melbourne at Maker & Monger at Prahran Market, Meatsmith in Fitzroy and Grana in Brunswick East. It’s served grilled, with a deep, golden crust and a stretchy, white centre. goldstreetdairy.com Andrew McConnell’s corner store Morning Market will have mince pies available to order from Wednesday November 22. The tarts are made with apples, currants, brandy and the anise-flavoured French spirit Pastis. $27 for a packet of six. 579 High Street, Prahran / morning.market US-based Mexican restaurant chain Ghost Donkey has opened its first Australian outpost on the street level of Crown Melbourne. It’s the kind of fun, overthe-top casino bar we’ve been waiting to come to the building. On the menu, there’s more than 35 mezcals and tequilas, chicken soft-shell tacos, and five options of nachos. 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank / ghostdonkey.com/melbourne Melbourne-founded bubble tea company Gotcha Fresh Tea has opened a new store at Malvern Central. Stop by for freshly brewed lychee green tea, taro milk with pearls and more. 110 Wattletree Road, Malvern / gotchafreshtea.com Collingwood-favourite Japanese cafe and lifestyle store Cibi has expanded its offer offering with new dedicated grocery and home sections. Cibi Grocer has grab-and-go bento boxes and farm produce, while Cibi Home stocks Noguchi lampshades and Tendo Mokko mushroom stools. 33-39 Keele Street, Collingwood / cibi.com.au

Read the full story for each dot point: broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/series/snack-bar 6

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Photo: Jo McGann es Takamoto

Photo: Kaede Jam

BUSTLING M I D D L E PA R K There’s a lot to love about Middle Park. Its laid-back beachside charm, leafy atmosphere, cafe scene and close-knit community make it an inner-city gem, appealing to young families and retirees.

MEDIAN HOUSE PRICES M I D D L E PA R K

2 bed unit, $947k 2 bed house, $1.7m 3 bed house, $2.461m Source: Data based on sales within the last 12 months

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BACK CHAT

Amyl & the Sniffers Words by Jo Walker Photo by Jamie Wdziekonski

The Aria Award-winning punks head out on tour Like a lot of us, Amy Taylor and Gus Romer lost track of time a bit over the past few years. When the Amyl & the Sniffers frontwoman and bass player talk to Broadsheet, they can’t agree what year they recorded their most recent album, Comfort to Me.. ((2020, ahead of a 2021 release, for the record.) Led by powerhouse punk and pub rock tunes like “Security” and “Hertz”, it’s a fitting product of Melbourne’s lockdowns – a little bit reflective, a lot unhinged. The pandemic was a “transformative time”, Taylor says. “Everyone in Melbourne was hit so hard. And there were so many dif different stages. The first one where it’s kind of a funny joke. And everything’s crazy. And then the months go by and you’re like, ‘Oh wait, I’m kind of losing my mind. Where’s everything I loved? And who am I? And what is life?’ So yeah, frustrating, but also

kind of formative … It definitely changed who I was and who I am.” Members of the band, which formed originally in Balaclava (“Chapel Street across from the cop shop”), lived together during the first year of the pandemic and spent their time writing ahead of studio sessions for the album. Then, of course, nothing. No gigs, no tours. For an outfit known for its blazing live performances – which had been gathering momentum overseas ahead of 2020 – it felt like a whimper rather than a bang. Was there ever concern the band’s trajectory might stall? “We don’t think too much about the future,” Romer says. “We think of stuff we want to do,” Taylor adds. “We get excited and make plans. But we don’t think of it in terms of how much success we’ll get.” Amyl & the Sniffers is very much a live band – great on the stereo, transformative on stage. Thankfully, the “bang” happened (and keeps happening). In the past 18 months the band made its US TV debut on Late Night with Seth Meyers, supported Liam Gallagher at

England’s iconic Knebworth Festival and toured play regional towns around the state (includwith Smashing Pumpkins. (Next year there’s ing Meeniyan, Castlemaine and Wodonga), a US jaunt with Foo Fighters on the cards.) finishing with an under-18s gig in Melbourne In typical bass player fashion, Romer on December 8. The mostly sold-out shows are the last describes his performance style as quite of the Comfort to Me album touring cycle muted. “I just go off on random tangents and will be the band’s final Australian shows mentally, whilst kind of engaging in what I’m doing,” he explains. for at least six months. Romer is looking Meanwhile, no one can miss Taylor. forward to playing for rural crowds (always Thrashing and shadow-boxing; half singing, “down to get rowdy”) and sampling rural bak bakhalf shouting; bold red lips and somehow-chic ery pies, while Taylor is particularly excited mullet; crackling with energy. After the forced for the under-age show. hiatus of lockdowns, she doesn’t take her stage The band attracts a diverse crowd, she says. time for granted. These days, performing Tradies, punks, grandmas. “Pretty much every everyis something like a “flow state”, she says. one, to be honest. There’s a lot of dads with “I feel like I’m both like highly present their daughters – like a 22-year-old daughter and a 50-year-old dad. There’s lots of couples. and also nowhere at all … I’m just hearing People from literally all different age groups the music. And I’m just dancing. And I’m just thinking about how to perform the song. … I feel like there’s like all different genders And I’m looking at everybody and I’m think think- and different colours and people expressing themselves in different ways.” ing, ‘Oh, this is cool.’” Right now, the band is gearing up for Always Live – 17 days of live music across Always Live events run from November 24 to December 10. See alwayslive.com.au for details. Victoria that will see Amyl & the Sniffers November 15, 2023

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HOME & LIFESTYLE

THE FIT- OUT

Six Design-Led Dog Products for Discerning Pooches By Gitika Garg

BOURKE ST THE L ABEL SIGNATURE CIRCLE LEAD – $169 Bourke St the Label’s luxe vegan dog leads make walkies chic. Designed in Melbourne, the Signature Circle lead features a padded handle for extra comfort and custom gold hardware, and comes in three colourways: cream, black and rosé. Clip on one of the stylish waste bag holders to complete the look. bourkestthelabel.com

HOUNDSOME BRO CKY LE ATHER BOW COLL AR – $75 Melbourne label Houndsome has a range of posh accoutrements for the distinguished doggie, from premium cravats to pure wool poo bag dispensers. Its Brocky Bow collar option is handcrafted from quality vegetable-tanned leather with solid brass hardware and comes in nude, black and striking red colour options. houndsome.dog

HOMMEY BOUCLE PET BED – $189–$389 We don’t always love the bulky, off-duty look of most dog beds. Melbourne lifestyle brand Hommey’s are made in its signature boucle fabric, giving your furry pals somewhere comfortable and stylish to rest their heads. The sleek machine-washable beds come in eight muted colours including olive, latte and blush. gethommey.com

DOG BY DR LISA WIPES – $17 Coat care is the name of the game at Dog by Dr Lisa. Founded by Sydney-based veterinar veterinarian Dr Lisa Chimes, its plant-based, compostable wipes are designed to freshen up your pup’s coat between baths. Great for post-park clean-ups, toilet mishaps and general maintenance, the wipes’ minimal, aesthetic packaging is pleasingly discreet when you’re on the go. dogbydrlisa.com

THE PAWS ROOM TEDDY DESIGNER DOG CRATE – $795–$1475 Many dog owners can attest to the trials and tribulations of crate training. The Paws Room offers a chic solu solution with its oak-finished Teddy crate for optimal ventilation and visibility. Design-led and durable, it presents more as home decor than pet accessory and can double up as a smart side table. Available in three sizes. thepawsroom.com.au

F R A N K G R E E N STA I N L E S S ST E E L P E T B O W L – $49.95–$74.95 The cult Aussie brand now caters to four-legged friends with a pet collection that’s just taken out a 2023 Australian Good Design Award. This sleek stainless steel bowl has an anti-slip silicone base, making mealtime less messy and more tasteful. Choose from small, medium, large and extra-large sizes. frankgreen.com.au November 15, 2023

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DOMAIN PROPERTY

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W H AT T H E A G E N T S AY S

Robin Parker Marshall White

HOME OF THE WEEK

Marriage of texture and form

“No. 13 Butler Street, Brighton, is a master-built family home, offering the next fortunate owners an enviable lifestyle just moments from Dendy Street beach, Church Street and local schools.”

Words by Anders Furze

This three-level property is “a stunning architectural creation,” says lead agent Robin Parker, and after taking in the curves, concrete and natural light that can be found throughout, it’s hard to disagree. Featuring the considered use of precast and in-situ concrete, blackbutt timber cladding and travertine, 13 Butler Street is a fitting tribute to the handiwork of luxe home construction firm Norwood Constructions. It makes for the ultimate in high-end bayside family living. On the ground floor, the main bedroom sits across from the entry. The bedroom hosts a walk-in wardrobe and an en suite with a double vanity. You’ll find the flowing, light and airy living spaces and kitchen opposite the main bedroom. These spaces are all designed to maximise the circulation of light and air, promoting maximum tranquillity. Tucked behind the sculptural central spiral staircase is the front lounge, which is opposite the main bedroom and has a fireplace and space for a television. You can see through to the rear hanging garden courtyard

and heated pool from here or get a closer look from the luxurious sunken sitting area. The sitting area connects to the pool and rear courtyard through floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors. It’s tailor-made for effortless poolside summer entertaining. The kitchen has a Dekton benchtop and a full butler’s panty with two Gaggenau ovens and fridge-freezers. The basement has not been relegated to an afterthought at this property – it offers a turntable and secure storage for 10 cars. The wine cellar will accommodate an extensive collection of the finest drops, and there’s a large home gym, which comes with its own laundry and bathroom. An infrared sauna aids in post-workout relaxation. Up on the first floor are four more bedrooms. Two of these have walk-in wardrobes that separately lead into a shared en suite. The other two bedrooms have built-in robes and their own en suites. The upstairs lounge is an ideal teenagers’ retreat and gets plenty of light thanks to a large skylight. It also comes with a study nook, which is defined by a built-in desk.

A sleek curved terrace wraps around the lounge and overlooks the pool. Other highlights throughout the property include Soktas lighting, in-floor heating and two laundries. The home is close to Dendy Street and Brighton beaches. As for schools, Brighton Beach Primary School is just one street away, and there’s easy access to other leading schools such as St Leonard’s College and Haileybury. The Brighton Beach and Middle Brighton stations are also nearby. Brighton 13 Butler Street $10.5 million 5

Private sale Agent: Marshall White, Robin Parker 0409 336 282 Hover your camera over the code to see Domain listings in Brighton

NEED TO KNOW The highest recorded house price for Brighton (past 12 months) was $31.6 million for 39 Seacombe Grove in November 2022.

RECENT SALES

$4.515 million 41 Hanby Street, October

$6.7 million 18 Hanby Street, July

$15.3 million 17 St Ninians Road, June

November 15, 2023

MELBOURNE

Lead by an award-winning team:

FEATURE

RUMI FOR ALL Words by Jenny Valentish Photos by Peter Tarasiuk

Joseph Abboud’s first cookbook is egalitarian, delicious and made to be loved to death. Here the Rumi founder talks family, “food of Middle Eastern appearance” and why tomatoes are a bit like keyboard music.

FEATURE

hen Joseph Abboud first opened his restaurant Rumi 17 years ago, his proud mother bought him RUMI 06 number plates to mark the occasion. Tactfully, Abboud explained that personalised plates could be seen as naff. Undeterred, his mum put them on her own car, where they remain to this day, even after she upgraded from a Ford Laser to a Nissan Micra. That’s one of many yarns from Abboud’s debut cookbook, Rumi. Like his recipes, his autobiographical essays are warm and irreverent. It’s like hanging out with a mate. There’s his years of hard graft in kitchens after quitting school; his rise through fine-dining establishments such as Est Est Est, MoMo and Ondine; and his homespun philosophies (he argues, for instance, that while tomatoes were only introduced to Lebanese cuisine 300 years ago, that doesn’t make them “inauthentic” in a tabouli). “The same goes for the keyboard in Lebanese music. Not sure how long it’s been around, but I can bet the first time someone whipped out a keyboard during a jam session at EMI, it wasn’t met with ease,” he writes. Family is knitted tightly into the Rumi story. Abboud’s mother-in-law proofread his essays, and it was she who impishly suggested he call his cooking style “food of Middle Eastern appearance” – in part so that people wouldn’t expect traditional Lebanese fare, but also so that they might think a little deeper. Rumi is named after the Middle Eastern philosopher, and the poetry of Kahlil Gibran is painted on the wall. The book is an homage to a restaurant that’s both beloved among the local community in Brunswick East, and famous more widely. (There’s a recipe called The Quail That Anthony Bourdain Ate, referencing the late chef ’s visit in 2009, when Matt Preston was filming No Reservations Reservations). Abboud favours an egalitarian attitude over showing off, and says the book’s soft cover and matte paper are to encourage people to scribble and stain as they go. A kind of Wreck This Journal for cooks. “If I had written this book in the first few years of Rumi, I would have tried really hard to impress other chefs, whereas now it’s genuinely written for people to cook from,” he tells Broadsheet. “Now I’m an old dog, I don’t care! We’ve been going all this time and we’ve never had a chef ’s hat, but we’re respected.” The 60-odd recipes range from beer snacks (which he knows purists will scoff at); to Rumi favourites such as Persian meatballs and shish barak yoghurt soup; to coffees, teas 14

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and Martinis; and – maybe to be safe – to his mother’s eggplant m’nazleh. “I wanted to convey a certain vibe rather than have a prescriptive way of doing things,” he says. “I know it’s great to have fresh ground spices, but man – we can’t even cook for ourselves most days, let alone source the best ingredients. So I didn’t want to just create more food porn.” Or create more food anxiety. Abboud admits he didn’t have much experience cook cooking Lebanese food when he first opened his restaurant – “fat chance of Mum letting me in the kitchen; she still warns me to be careful with a knife” – so he gets it if you’re nervous too.

there would be any flow-on from it. It was just the way I wanted to serve food, and it’s the way that I still like to eat.” Lately he’s noticed big antipasto plates are coming back in fashion. “I hate those things! It’s just a strange way to eat. It almost takes away the communal aspect of eating and there’s always filler. No one ever ate those grilled eggplants! The whole ethos of our food was to break that all apart.” With Rumi going great guns, Abboud spread his wings, opening Moor’s Head (which served “inauthentic” pizza – noticing a theme here?) on the Glen Huntly Road strip and Bar Saracen in the CBD. He sold

If I had written this book in the first few years of Rumi, I would have tried really hard to impress other chefs, whereas now it’s genuinely written for people to cook from.

“I’m supposed to be a professional, but I wanted people to know that it’s not that easy if you’re not that way inclined,” he says. “I normally get it so wrong the first time. The first trial night we had with Rumi, I had a complete meltdown. I said to my wife, ‘Why did you let me get this far without telling me that the food isn’t that good?’ She said, ‘What are you talking about?’ But it was so far from what I wanted because I needed to practise.” When Rumi first opened, few restaurants were cooking on charcoal, serving Arabic coffee or pushing share plates. In the book, Abboud recalls the lengths his team went to trying to explain the concept. “At one point we resorted to likening the experience to dining at a Chinese restaurant, hoping to give some comfort to the guests who were concerned about missing out,” he writes. “None of it was done to make a point,” he says now, “because never did I imagine

the former in 2015 and closed the latter amid the lockdowns in 2021. “I was always trying to draw attention to the Moor’s Head, but people just wanted to talk about Rumi. I think Rumi really struck a chord in people’s hearts at a certain time and, fortunately for us, it stayed that way,” he says. “A big part was luck. We managed to embed ourselves in the community at a time when if you cooked well, if you looked after people, that gave you respect. Since then the industry has moved and the standard is so high it’s almost coming full circle back to the ’90s, when restaurants were entertainment and it wasn’t about eating good-quality stuff.” Abboud gives Broadsheet a tour around his home in Coburg, where he lives with his wife Natalie and their three boys. There’s a decent vegetable patch out back, unsurprisingly. “I’d love to romanticise our relationship with the garden, but it’s just a very practical

set-up,” he says. “I get out there when I can because it’s almost the only thing I do that isn’t business-related.” Now is a particularly hectic time, because the release of the book coincides with a new era for the restaurant (the front cover will even be the new logo), which is moving from its long-time home on Lygon Street to East Brunswick Village. There’ll also be a separate bar serving Lebanese sandwiches and other snacks. Neighbours will include Siconi Gelato, Blackhearts & Sparrows and Bridge Road Brewers. Not bad for a guy who dropped out of school early. “I told my parents that I had an apprenticeship, which I didn’t – it was just a dishwashing job and this guy wasn’t even paying us,” Abboud recalls. “I rocked up one day and there’s chains on the door because he hasn’t been paying his rent. Welcome to hospitality!” Despite that insalubrious start, he’s always been mesmerised by the way the industry provides peaks and troughs that most people will never experience. “I’ve come to realise that hospitality is one of the few jobs that gives you joy, whether it’s a great interaction with a customer or another staff member. With hospitality, you either get it or you don’t. If you don’t, and you stay in it, you’re always fighting it.” Over the years, Abboud’s siblings, cousins, parents and in-laws have all rolled up their sleeves for the business, and during the lock lockdowns his three sons did too, helping with takeaway preparations. “The 15-year-old now comes in on a regular basis,” Abboud says. “The next one along is pretty reluctant, but he’ll realise very soon that he has expensive tastes and if he wants to buy anything … Then the little guy is 12 and he’s pretty keen. Look, I don’t expect them to be heavily involved, but I also don’t have this thing … I know a lot of people think, ‘Don’t ever let them get involved in hospitality, it’s horrible.’ But it’s given me great opportunities without even finishing high school.” And what of his mother, Malaky? Has she cast her approval on the recipes in the book? “She flicked through for about one second and looked to the heavens to thank god for what has been achieved, and that was about the end of it,” he laughs. “She’s very proud of it – she shows her friends photos of it – but, you know, Mum’s high on emotion, low on detail.” Joseph Abboud’s cookbook Rumi: Food of Middle Eastern Appearance is out now through Murdoch Books.

NEIGHBOURHOODS

W INDOW SHOPPING

Kooyong

NEED TO KNOW Kooyong nurtures a thriving community with serene ambiance and heritage homes, enhancing liveability. The competitive real estate market mirrors its urban proximity and desirability, making it a sought-after suburb.

By Jo Walker

Average Age

Median Weekly income

$3,218

ith just 842 residents (according to the 2021 census), it’s fair to say Kooyong is on the small side. But the exclusive microsuburb punches well above its weight when it comes to food and drink, parkland, transport and recreation. (And old-money mansions.). Sandwiched between Toorak, Armadale, Glen Iris, Malvern and Hawthorn East, the area is well-serviced by trains and trams, as well as walking and cycling tracks that take you all the way into the city. Hungry? Head to Glenferrie Road for eat-in and takehome options. Brothers Keeper Cafe is open every day for brunch (with a menu that includes a very Instagram-friendly French toast), while Le Petit Bistro offers traditional French fare – and a generous wine list – from Provence. At least one Broadsheet staffer likes to call it the “Kooyong France Soir”. The Purple Fig Bakery’s artisan bread (including a topnotch sourdough) and sweet pastries regularly sell out before official closing time, so get in early to secure your carbs. Nearby sits Croutons Fine Foods. The deli and provisions store, known for posh ready meals, has been a Kooyong institution since 1977. It’s currently closed due to fire damage, but we’ve been told it will be operating “in some capacity” early next year. Just over the border with Hawthorn you’ll find Saint Helen Cafe – a family-run Middle Eastern joint – and Sonny Ray, a licensed neighbourhood cafe with plenty of crowd-pleasers on the menu. Given its size – a mere half-a-square-kilometre – Kooyong is surprisingly rich in parks and sporting clubs. There’s the venerable Kooyong Tennis Club and Stadium, host to the yearly Kooyong Classic exhibition tournament. Sir Zelman Cowen Park is home to soccer, cricket and athletics facilities and the Malvern Braves Baseball Club HQ. The park also encompasses the dog-friendly McAlpine Oval and is an easy stroll to Gardiners Creek trail for walking and cycling – and a connection through to the Capital City Trail. 16

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Owner

78%

22%

Family

Single

49% Clockwise from top: The Purple Fig Bakery, photo Jessie Evans; Purple Fig breads, photo courtesy bakery; Baseball diamond and Kooyong Station, photos Jessie Evans

Renter

51%

NEIGHBOURHOODS

W H AT T H E A G E N T S AY S

Nicole French Marshall White “Kooyong’s charm is characterised by wide streets sheltered by canopies of greenery, preserved period homes from all generations and immediate access to charismatic cafes and lush parkland. This suburb is Stonnington’s best-kept secret.”

Clockwise from top: Tennis club, Parklands, Glenferrie Road, Heritage architecture, photos Jessie Evans

MEDIAN HOUSE PRICES Median price houses

$3.7m

Median weekly rent

$590

Distance from CBD

7km

Hover your camera over the code to see Domain listings in Kooyong

November 15, 2023

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FASHION & STYLE

STUDIO VISIT

DNJ Paper Words by Holly Bodeker-Smith · Photos by Amy Hemmings We now have the opportunity to wax whole garments for the first time,” Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran, one of the designers behind fashion label DNJ Paper, tells Broadsheet. “We’ve never done that because, well, our little oven.” She intonates like she’s describing her firstborn, pointing to a toaster oven in the cor corner of the studio. The boxy machine (which lists cooking settings for “pizza” and “air fry”) is what she and DNJ Paper co-founder Jake NakashimaEdwards use to bake their signature caps. Why would you bake a hat? For Mohajer va Pesaran and Nakashima-Edwards, it’s the final step in making their surprisingly sturdy garments and accessories with washi, a traditional Japanese paper. “We wax the surface and bake it,” she says. The washi absorbs the beeswax and comes out feeling like papery leather: waterproof, dryclean-proof, and more resistant to wear and tear. The duo has been finessing this process since meeting at RMIT’s School of Fashion and Textiles in 2019. Nakashima-Edwards, who is JapaneseAustralian, was taking an honours degree and wanted to use paper as a textile. “One of the staff told me to talk to [Daphne] because she’s the world’s leading – and only – expert on paper clothing,” he says. From that fortuitous meeting, she became his supervisor, and they started experimental fashion label DNJ Paper the next year. Today, they work with sheets of washi sourced from papermaking houses in Japan (including a seventh-generation papermaker). There, the delicate material has been used to make clothes for more than 1000 years. “Paper used to be used for all kinds of everyday items like lanterns, toys, boxes, doors and windows,” says Mohajer va Pesaran, who’s Iranian-Canadian and lived in Japan for 10 years. “And so many people made it. It was winter work for farmers.” The ancient material is created with the inner bark of the mulberry (or kozo) tree, as well as the mitsumata and gampi bushes. It’s stronger, more pliant and more absorbent than modern paper. And it’s incredibly diverse: a sheet can be thinner than a human hair, or layered with pulp and other materials like lace. DNJ Paper’s latest project, the MPavilion 10 Uniform Commission, puts the practice on 18

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full display. For this, the pair has designed 35 clothing pieces for front-of-house staff to wear in Melbourne this summer. One is a pink washi paper vest – the first full garment baked at their studio in Hanover House, Southbank. The second – a collaboration with The Social Studio – is a car cardamom-green linen jacket inspired by a Japanese work jacket called a samue. “We work with a lot of Japanese archetypes,” Nakashima-Edwards says. That’s partly because the patterns on many Japanese garments, like the samue and kimono, start with rectangles. “The sheets of paper are rectangles, and we want to be efficient with how we use them. So, we minimise the waste and reuse the scraps.” This low-waste approach permeates their projects, from pattern-cutting to dyes, and items in their colourful studio point to each stage. Nakashima-Edwards pulls out a glass box on wheels, which is full of confetti-like offcuts of washi paper. Under their workbench, an Ikea bag brims with blazing red polo shirts, which they found in Hanover House. “They were the uniforms for the Chinese TV station that used to be here,” Mohajer va Pesaran says. The abandoned shirts have become the colourway for the MPavilion vests. Adapting a traditional Japanese technique, they mix konnyaku (a starch from the root of the devil’s tongue plant) with water to create a viscous gel. “We then apply the konnyaku with the polo shirt scraps so the dye comes out,” Mohajer va Pesaran says. The result is a crinkled yet firm washi paper in a light pink wash. The dyed sheets are then cut, sewn, coated in beeswax and baked in DNJ Paper’s new, wardrobe-like oven. You can wear the paper vest like an everyday shirt, but the final product still dumbfounds people. “Some common questions we get are, ‘Can you wash it?’, ‘But what if it rains?’” Mohajer va Pesaran says. While the garment will survive in either scenario, it won’t last forever – and she says that’s kind of the idea. “It’s going to get absolutely thrashed as a uniform,” NakashimaEdwards says. “Having a material that asks you to be mindful about how you’re interacting with it, but is also surprisingly durable, is a really beautiful tension.”

TRAVEL

McLaren Vale, SA by Lucy Bell Bird

ess than 45 minutes from the Adelaide CBD, you’ll find one of Australia’s premier wine regions. With rolling hills, manicured vines and views to the waves at Aldinga Beach, McLaren Vale is a topnotch representation of South Australia’s holy trinity: food, wine and natural beauty. A major draw for wine lovers and gourmands, it’s far from pretentious. Take Down the Rabbit Hole. The cellar door and restaurant from a pair of former “van life” influencers brings a boho Byron vibe to McLaren Vale with a wicker swing, coffee van, free-roaming chickens and a double-decker bus converted to host wine tastings. A play area, picnic rugs and family-friendly musical

performances make it a treat for kids and grownups alike. For a more traditional winery head to the family-run Coriole, which produces boundarypushing Mediterranean styles (like fiano, nero d’avola and piquepoul) from century-old vines. Or there’s d’Arenberg, executing traditional drops against the backdrop of its glass-fronted, Rubik’s cube-inspired cellar door – a multistorey space that houses surrealist art (including dozens of Salvador Dali sculptures). Wine will always be on the agenda here, but once it’s time to eat, your first port of call should be Pizzateca – a pink and green “Oz-Italian” spot famous for its woodfired Diablo pizza topped

with sugo, Asiago, mild salami and chilli-infused honey. Finish your meal with a scoop from its newly opened companion gelato stand, Gelateca, serving chilli-honey scoops and a near-perfect pistachio flavour made with paste imported from the slopes of Mount Etna on the coast of Sicily. Or if you prefer your supper with a side of sea views, Silver Sands Beach Club offers some of the state’s most breathtaking sunset views (and crispiest potatoes). Boutique accommodation is available at many local wineries. Beresford Estate offers self-contained villas with private plunge pools and barbeques for summer, and plenty of throws, fireplaces and glasses of red for winter.

Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia

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LUXURY Words by Maria Harris & Richard Cornish

St Kilda 38a Grey Street $3.2 million-$3.5 million 4

Contact agent Agent: WHITEFOX, Peter Zervas 0405 682 173 Built as a lofty luxury home in 1859, this property fell on hard times as a shady hotel, only to be publicly rehabilitated and renovated on The Block in 2019. This glorious home on three levels, linked by a lift, has three spacious living spaces and four outdoor areas with city and bay views from the second floor. The thorough restoration and fine finishes throughout make this beautiful old home a secure haven, a few steps from St Kilda’s dining culture, trams and beach.

Hawthorn East 1 Laurel Court $6 million-$6.6 million 5

Brighton 34 Champion Street $6.8 million-$7.3 million 5

Beaumaris 17 Mariemont Avenue $3.3 million-$3.5 million 4

Auction: 11.30am, November 25 Agent: Marshall White, Stuart Evans 0402 067 710

Expressions of interest: Close 5pm, November 27 Agent: Marshall White, Andy Nasr 0422 029 324

Expressions of interest: Close 5pm, November 21 Agent: Marshall White, Kate Fowler 0418 418 385

Down a quiet oak-lined court is this expansive modern family home, surrounded by greenery and filled with light, yet secluded and secure. That sense of space extends from the large basement, with a gym and room for six cars, to the separate living zones, which offer quiet, private spaces. From the impressive view over the pool from the main bedroom to the clean lines of the kitchen, this is a beautiful yet durable family home, just a short walk from historic Auburn village.

This three-level entertainer offers formal and informal living and dining rooms, a kitchen with commercial-grade stove and butler’s pantry, a teenage retreat, a six-car basement garage, a cinema and a wine room. Lavish appointments include the new French oak chevron flooring and crystal chandeliers beneath coffered ceilings. Downstairs is an impressive guest bedroom with en suite, while upstairs, four more bedrooms include the opulent main suite.

Perched on Deauville Estate, this 1960 home was designed by award-winning architect Kurt Popper. Renovations in recent years have brought modern functionality to the kitchen and bathrooms. The views from the first floor look out across the bay down to Arthurs Seat, while downstairs, the picture windows open the living areas to the lush garden and pool. This classic Beaumaris home is within walking distance of the Concourse and Seaview shopping villages. November 15, 2023

MELBOURNE

DOMAIN PROPERTY

OPEN FOR INSPECTION Words by Joanne Brookfield & Kay Keighery

LAST WEEKEND

Malvern 73 Elizabeth Street $1.5 million-$1.65 million

Clearance Rate of 60%* Source: Domain Group

Auction: 2.30pm, November 18 Agent: Marshall White, Nicholas Brooks 0419 883 136

W H AT O U R N AT I O N A L E D I T O R S AY S

This semi-detached Edwardian home delivers single-level living in a convenient and lively location. Renovated and easy on the eye, it’s a move-in-ready proposition. The first two bedrooms off the entrance hall have built-in wardrobes and open fireplaces. The third is better suited for study purposes. The bathroom-laundry is compact yet chic. Introduced by the kitchen and finishing with dining and living areas crowned by a cathedral ceiling, the open-plan hub adjoins a terrace. Natalie Mortimer Domain national magazine editor “The Boroondara and Port Philip suburbs rank in the top 10 nationally for livability in 2023, emphasising ease of moving around, local shops and open spaces as major factors.”

Elwood 369 Barkly Street $2.75 million-$3.025 million 5

HIGHEST VALUE

$4.1 million Surrey Hills 39 Kent Road Sold by Marshall White* *As reported on November 4, 2023

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Expressions of interest: Close 2pm, November 20 Agent: WHITEFOX, Lana Samuels 0435 165 633 Arrestingly Edwardian up front and stunningly modern in conclusion, this home is a cross-century stunner. You’ll find bedrooms and a bathroom on both levels. Fitted out to the max, with a study nook off the kitchen, a built-in dining table adjoining the island bench and a gas fireplace in the living zone, the hub connects with a sunny rear courtyard.

Hawthorn 5 Henrietta Street $2.4 million-$2.6 million 3

Auction: 2.30pm, November 25 Agent: RT Edgar, Rachael Fabbro 0412 547 690 Suitable for families or downsizers alike, over a single spacious level is this renovated period home, ideally located off Glenferrie Road and metres from Riversdale Road. Behind the double-fronted Victorian facade, bedrooms run off the arched hall, then an extension sees a contemporary open-plan living zone spanning the entire width to maximise the northern aspect.

Glen Iris 2e Glenvale Road $2.95 million-$3.2 million 4

Expressions of interest: Close 4pm, November 21 Agent: Kay & Burton, Adam Cashmore 0407 077 113 This spacious double-level family home was “meticulously built by our owners and loved since 2006”, the agent says. Downstairs, open-plan living wraps around the heated pool and landscaped garden, which is visible through floor-to-ceiling windows, adding a practical level to a flexible floor plan that includes a study and dedicated theatre room.

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Toorak 206/1 Wallace Avenue $2.5 million-$2.75 million 2

Elwood G01/51 Ormond Esplanade $1.25 million

Expressions of interest: Close 5pm, November 21 Agent: Kay & Burton, Oliver Booth 0413 975 723 Elevated in a landmark complex, this pad has a choice of living areas and two scenic terraces. Floor-to-ceiling glazing ensures main spaces are bright. A fireplace warms the lounge and dining room. The hub takes on both terraces, and bedrooms have en suites.

Brighton 18 Grandview Road $2.7 million-$2.9 million 5

FIND YOUR NEXT HOME

Private sale Agent: Kay & Burton, Campbell Kilsby 0402 212 093

Auction: 12.30pm, November 18 Agent: Marshall White, Campbell Butterss 0432 735 385

Designed in the late 1930s by notable architect J.H. Esmond Dorney, the streamline moderne-style St Kiernan is a landmark on Elwood’s golden mile. An extensive development kept mainly the external walls, creating contemporary apartments with luxurious deco touches throughout communal areas.

Free-standing on a deep garden allotment, this substantial two-storey Edwardian home struts a tasteful and thoughtful makeover. The lounge radiates a period vibe while the open-plan hub feels thoroughly modern, with the Miele and marble-accented kitchen drawing particularly approving attention.

Hover your camera over the code to view live listings on domain.com.au

OVER 50% SOLD

NOW OPEN Experience extraordinary retirement and live exceptionally at Ardency Kennedy Place. Discover urban luxury at its best for over-55s. Featuring spacious apartments and resort-style facilities including a private cinema, wellness centre and a hotelstyle concierge service. Two bedroom apartments from $990,000* Three bedroom apartments from $1,240,000*

14227 11/23

Book a Tour Today 1800 550 550 | 1 Khartoum Street, Richmond

*Prices correct as at 8 November 2023. Photographs are for illustrative purposes and may depict decorative items not actually provided by Keyton. Published 15 November 2023 by Keyton Realty (VIC) Pty Ltd ABN 55 124 646 484. November 15, 2023

MELBOURNE

4a 2b 2v 824r

SANDRINGHAM 16 Dreadnought Street A FLAWLESS FUSION OF LIGHT, SPACE AND POOLSIDE LUXURY • Lounge, living room, dining room, family room, Miele kitchen

AUCTION Sat 25 Nov at 11:30am

• North-facing deck, pool, & landscaped gardens

VIEW See website for details

• Renovated single-level home by Jost Architects

• 4 beds, 2 baths (main ensuite), fitted office • Near St Leonard’s & Haileybury Colleges, shops, beach & station belleproperty.com/222P428635 24

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03 9596 7055 Jenny Dwyer 0418 528 988 Sam Inan 0433 076 999

6 Irymple Avenue, St Kilda

4 A

Auction Saturday 2nd December at 10.30am

Contact Ben Manolitsas 0400 201 626

Viewing Saturday 12.15-12.45 & Wednesday 11.45-12.15pm

Melissa Baile 0499 322 389

1 C

Oliver Bruce 0409 856 599

marshallwhite.com.au

2 B

3 B 2 b 2 c

November 15, 2023

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12 Loch Street, St Kilda West Epitome of Design, Luxury and North-Facing Excellence Auction: Saturday 2nd December, 2:30pm 26

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Inspect: As Advertised or by private appointment

570 sqm approx j

Warwick Gardiner Mack Burgoine

0438 308 555 0439 464 625

November 15, 2023

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102 Bridport Street, Albert Park

336 sqm approx j

Magnificent Victorian in the Village Heart Auction: Saturday 25th November, 12:30pm Inspect: As advertised or by private appointment 28

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Simon Gowling Max Mercuri Marcus Varrasso

0422 234 644 0431 043 723 0414 616 575

38 The Crescent, Port Melbourne

462 sqm approx j

Parkside Luxury with City Panorama Expressions Of Interest: Closing Monday 4th December, 5:00pm Inspect: As advertised or by private appointment

For Sale | G01/74 Well Street, Brighton Contact Darren Blair 0404 928 420 Michael Paproth 0488 300 800

Simon Gowling Warwick Gardiner

0422 234 644 0438 308 555

Viewing Thursday 12.00 - 12.30pm Saturday 1.30 - 2.00pm November 15, 2023

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441 NEW STREET BRIGHTON

A 5 B4 C 3

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KAYBURTON.COM.AU

Expressions of Interest Close 5 December at 5pm Viewing Wednesday & Saturday 1-1:30pm Contact Will Maxted Stephanie Shafik Tommy McIntosh

0451 105 900 0418 515 255 0437 170 258

14B CAMPBELL STREET BRIGHTON

A 4 B 4.5 C 3 F

Yes

KAYBURTON.COM.AU

Expressions of Interest Close 5 December at 5pm Viewing By Appointment Thursday & Saturday 1-1:30pm Contact Ross Savas Jamie Mi Nick Kenyon

0418 322 994 0450 125 355 0429 858 616

NOvEMBER 15, 2023

MELBOURNE

Elwood 77 ormond Esplanade

Modern Style & Space Meets Art Deco Glamour Perfectly fusing modern style & space with sumptuous period glamour, this beautifully renovated and generously extended residence on Elwood’s prestigious Golden Mile is an offering that will exceed all expectations. Crowned by glorious original Art Deco ceilings with exquisite decorative cornices and enhanced by warm chocolate-hued hardwood flooring, accommodation includes multiple living areas (235m2 approx), along with a Miele-equipped entertainer’s kitchen with butler’s pantry. A ground floor master with sunny dressing room/study area and chic ensuite is a highly desirable inclusion. Upstairs, discover up to four additional bedrooms, one with ensuite, a sparkling family bathroom and a huge and extremely versatile rumpus/games room with balcony. Also offered is a three-car garage, side laneway access, ‘man-shed’, hydronic heating, ducted cooling (upstairs), a guest powder room & wine storage. Park views & water glimpses.

For Sale: Contact:

$4,390,000 T sten Kasper 0428 454 181 Tor Carolyn Clarke 0414 944 933

NICK JOHNSTONE

your personal agent

��

THE BEST BUY IN BRIGHTON - MORTGAGEE SALE House Sized Proportions with Low Maintenance Luxury on 672m2 Plus 233sqm �� Brighton Grammar.

OPEN TO INSPECT Wed 15TH & Thurs 16th Nov 12pm-12.30pm Saturday 18th Nov 9.30am-10.15am

AGENT Bert Geraerts 0418 514 090

AUCTION �� PRICE ��

n i i c k j o h nsto n e . c o m . a u | 2 / 1 1 9 O c ean Beach Rd, Sorrento | 248 Esplanade, Brighton | 96-98 Station St, Sandringham | 9553 8300 32

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November 15, 2023

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Rare Domain Gem, 4 Car Basement 100 Hope Street, South Yarra a b c

"## # 34

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Penthouse 5/3 Douglas Street, Toorak 3

Expression of Interest Closing 20 November at 2pm Viewing Wednesday 12-12.30pm Saturday 12-12.30pm Contact Phillip French 0411 090 987 Robert Clements 0412 547 291

clementsinternational.au November 15, 2023

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