Domain Review Ivanhoe & Valley - May 19, 2021

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

MAY 19-25, 2021

FOOD & WINE EDITION

THE BEST OF VICTORIA W HERE & W H AT TO E AT & DRINK

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C o mp i l e d b y

H AI L E Y C O U L E S

The editor’s desk

KATE SHANASY

DIEGO RAMIREZ

Whatever you do, please don’t eat the pages of this week’s edition, though I could understand if you wanted to.

It’s been a truly exciting few weeks at Domain Review, bringing this array of delicious features your way in our Victorian food and wine edition. And it’s fantastic to be able to bring to you so many highlights of the state’s dining and drinking scene, given the challenges of the past 15 months. We’d encourage you to get back out there, where and when possible, to support the truly amazing restaurants, cafes, bars, breweries and wineries we have across Victoria. Cheers! ●

YOUNG GUNS \ Maha Bar is welcoming four top young

FESTIVAL FUN \ 80 Collins is offering its first event

chefs into their kitchen from May 18. Each Tuesday the

series in collaboration with the MFWF. There are two

takeovers will showcase wonderful Middle Eastern

options, Signature Sip & Graze on June 2 or Lunch

fare. ● mahabar.com.au

Illuminated on June 5. ● 80collins.com.au

GOING PLACES Things to do & see in Melbourne

OUR COVER \ Rosheen Kaul, head chef at Brunswick East restaurant Etta.

Photographed by Kristoffer Paulsen

MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Jemimah Clegg Editorial producer \ Hailey Coules Group picture editor \ Vashti Newcomb Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Graphic designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial director \ Adrian Lowe National managing editor \ Alice Stolz Group director, Consumer \ Jason Chuck

Ray van Veenendaal \ 0438 279 870 ray.vanv@domain.com.au Retail sales \ retailsales@sales.domain.com.au

Is your mag missing? Distribution \ 1800 032 472 distribution@domainreview.com.au

REVIEW Domain Review is published by Domain Holdings Australia Limited and is printed by Elephant Group (Aust) Pty Ltd, 24c Victoria Street Windsor VIC 3181. All material is copyright.

PETER TARASIUK

Real estate sales director \

SIMON SHIFF

Jason Pellegrino

I VA N H O E & VA L L E Y

Chief executive officer Domain Group \

ITALY AT HOME \ A new fresh pasta venture is set to

FAMILY FEAST \ The team behind Daughter in Law,

open in late May in Fairfield. You can order online or pop

Mrs Singh, Mr Brownie and Horn Please are hosting a

into their shopfront, which will also have a restaurant

fundraising dinner at all their locations on May 19, with

launch later this year. ● pastapoetry.com.au

all takings going towards medical supplies for India. ●

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TRAVEL

Summer in Gippsland

State of discovery When it comes to holidays focused on quality culinary experiences, there’s no place like home.

Wo r d s

PE T E R BA R R E T T

M

ost Victorians know we have some of the best eating and drinking experiences in Australia – and now the closure of international borders and uncertainty around state-based lockdowns means locals are more interested than ever in holidaying on their home turf.

More than 2.7 million Victorians accessed visitvictoria.com between November 2020 and last month, up 75 per cent on the same time last year, with a significant increase in Victorians booking ahead.

So, it’s time to reacquaint ourselves with our state’s best food and wine regions. Here are some top picks, including the best time to visit.

Summer means seafood, and Melbourne chef Scott Pickett (Estelle, Matilda, Longrain and Chancery Lane) is a big fan of the locally caught offerings of Lakes Entrance in Gippsland. “We get great flathead, and the snapper has been amazing,” he says. “We also get great calamari, too.” But no need to wet your own line, there are some top seafood restaurants here, such as Soda Fish in Lakes Entrance and, in nearby Paynesville, Sardine, where accomplished chef Mark Briggs serves up fresh, locally caught delights.

Closer to home, just south of Warragul, chef Trevor Perkins is renowned for his seasonal produce and nose-to-tail approach at Hogget Kitchen. But if your summer adventure takes you further afield to Mallacoota, don’t leave without trying a dumpling from Lucy’s.

Autumn in the Otways

Spring in the High Country

There’s nothing better than cosying up with a glass of conviviality to an open fire when it’s cold and wet. With the recent flood of Melburnians to this part of Victoria, the food and wine offerings in this neck of the woods have become more sophisticated. From iconic favourites such as the Lake House in Daylesford and Annie Smithers’ local and seasonal French farmhouse offerings at du Fermier to gastropub lunches by a crackling fire at The Plough in Trentham, this region is bursting with food and wine talent. We also recommend making a beeline for Kyneton.

When temperatures start shivering out of single digits it’s time to hightail it to the High Country. Nothing says spring like sparkling prosecco and King Valley is where you’ll find it.

Known as the Prosecco Road, this region is bristling with quality family wineries such as Pizzini, Dal Zotto and Chrismont, where you can take a rustic lunch in the striking dining room. But spring is changeable so, depending on the weather, warm yourself with fortified wines in Rutherglen or cool down with thirst-quenching ales from Bridge Road Brewers in Beechworth or Bright Brewery.

ROBERT BLACKBURN

Winter in Daylesford & the Macedon Ranges

Dining room at Du Fermier, in Trentham.

F I N E D I N I N G AT B R A E

SCOTT WILLIAMS

C H R I S M O N T WI N E RY, PR O S E C C O R OA D

As temperatures begin to drop you’ll find mountain bikers hooning around the dirt tracks of Forrest in Victoria’s gorgeous Otway Ranges. The stable weather may also be perfect for rainforest walks or beachside ramblings along the nearby Great Ocean Road, but where to revive your exhausted bones after all that exercise? Fortunately, this region is experiencing a food and wine awakening. From small-scale, quality ales at Forrest Brewing to top-shelf dining and accommodation at Brae Restaurant in Birregurra and buzzy (now permanent) pop-ups by Movida and Coda restaurants in Lorne, there is much on offer. Don’t leave without trying a Salt Brewing Co. beer from the Aireys Pub and fish and chips from Anglesea’s Fish By Moonlight. ●

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Turning up the heat COVER STORY

Time for a fresh approach: Women are smashing the boys’ club in Melbourne’s hospitality industry.

W

hen you order the bone-in pork belly rib at Etta in Brunswick East, the meat is charred over smouldering embers to caramelise the crust.

It’s finished in the oven and the fat blisters into crackling – all grunt and f lavour. Tiny turnips and an oyster emulsion daub add a feminine touch, but this is a masculine dish, cooked by 28-year-old head chef Rosheen Kaul.

Kaul joined Etta in November 2020, having cooked at Lee Ho Fook and now-closed restaurants Ezard and Dinner by Heston. Employed by owner Hannah Green, she puts her recent role down to her determination to be treated equally in kitchens throughout her career.

“To get anywhere in a kitchen, especially as a woman, you always feel the need to really prove yourself,” she says. “You don’t ever want to be like, ‘I’m getting this because I’m a girl.’ I’m not softer than you. I can lift stuff. I can cook on fire.”

She recalls one job where women were destined for the pastry section and sous chefs “slapped her on the arse” as she walked past, but that was an exception.

“People can’t really hide any more. Because of the time we’re in and because of how much this conversation happens, people are generally decent now and highly aware of how their behaviour can be construed,” she says.

Kaul’s advice to young women cooking their way to the top is the same she’d give to anybody: “Don’t rush. Make your foundation as rock-solid as you can so that nobody can question you. If you arm yourself with all the skills and knowledge that you can, then in an ideal world, it shouldn’t matter who you are.”

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ROSHEEN KAUL Head chef at Etta

Wo r d s

KATIE McCORMACK

GAVIN GREEN

Co-owner of Congress, Future Future & Lagotto restaurants Katie McCormack is thrilled that there are increasingly more female role models in hospitality. She remembers dining regularly at Circa in St Kilda, where she aspired to be in a similar spot to then-front-of-house manager Madeleine Morgan (now at Pt Leo Estate).

“She was an anomaly in that position. When I used to dine out when I was first getting into restaurants, there were very few women serving us, and definitely not in managerial positions and definitely no sommeliers,” says McCormack. “It’s really changing.”

About 70 per cent of McCormack’s staff are female. She acknowledges that while it might be related to the interview process or how she connects with people, she believes that women bring a particular warmth and openness to a space.

“You’re going to have harder women and softer men, but women bring humility. It’s about the guest, about being part of their experience rather than stomping on it, if I’m allowed to say that,” she says.

LORETTA BOLOTIN

KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

EMILY WEAVING

CEO of Free to Feed Free to Feed CEO Loretta Bolotin doesn’t think it’s a coincidence that she employs more women at her not-for-profit social enterprise. All three of her chefs are female, outperforming their male counterparts during interviews. When asked during an interview how he might problem-solve, one prospective employee said he’d take the person causing the issue into the cool room and “give them a dressing down”.

“All three of our chefs have had successful careers, but they notice the toxicity that exists in the hospitality sector. Our workplace encourages wellbeing and is about creating a nurturing environment for our participants and staff alike,” says Bolotin.

Free to Feed runs paid training and development

S O F IA L E VI N

courses for new migrants and people seeking asylum. Participants complete a Certificate III in Commercial Cookery and share their culture through food in their cooking classes. Bolotin estimates about 80 per cent of the program’s participants are women due to greater barriers faced when transitioning into hospitality as new migrants.

“Many of the women in our program are also mothers, so they are balancing significant caring responsibilities,” Bolotin says.

JAYNE LEWIS

Co-owner of Two Birds Brewing Hospitality is changing in the drinks world, too.

Australia’s first femalefounded brewery, Two Birds Brewing, turns 10 this June. Co-founder Jayne Lewis has been in the industry for 18 years and also started the Australian arm of The Pink Boots Society, a non-profit organisation that supports women in brewing.

“When I started there was myself and one other female brewer in the industry, but it’s becoming so much less of a thing,” she says.

Research has shown that women have more taste buds than men, which is related to being a “supertaster” – someone who experiences flavour more vividly. According to an oft-cited study from Yale Medical School, about 35 per cent of women but only 15 per cent of men fit the description.

“The beer-making process is the same between genders, but I believe there is a difference around finesse and tasting as well,” says Lewis. “There’s more balance.”

Still, the gendered stigma remains in the brewing world. Lewis is constantly met with surprise when she tells people that she makes beer, but insists it’s a fun industry to work in once you get past the stereotypes. Besides, she points out, women were brewing beer long before blokes.

“Brewing was the traditional job of women up until the Industrial Revolution. It was part of preparing food,” she says. “Now women are taking back brewing. We’re absolutely still a minority, but we’re coming on at a rate of knots.” ●

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Wo r d s

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JA N E R O C CA

overs of Victorian wine are in for a treat – they’re about to get a chance to connect directly with growers, discover local wineries and explore the state’s 21 wine regions. It’s all in a newly launched digital directory, Behind the Vines.

“As winemakers, we have had to be creative about finding new ways to keep in touch with customers and work out how to find new ones,” says Hannah Hodges, head winemaker at Mac Forbes. “Having the wine directory is a great place to connect us all.”

The directory allows searches by taste and region preferences – a cellar door click-through option brings the wine closer to your door without having to leave home. Wineries can also be contacted.

“Our customer base is more and more desperate to come to us directly,” Hodges says. “They don’t want to buy a bottle from a bottle shop if the sales person doesn’t have the answers about it.”

“They don’t want to buy a bottle from a bottle shop if the sales JAMES MORGAN

person doesn’t have the answers about it.”

HANNAH HODGES

MARK ASHKANASY

Mac Forbes

MARYANN & REG EGAN

Wantirna Estate

Hodges, who swapped a career in biochemistry for winemaking in 2015, says the new generation of wine drinkers want to know what’s in the bottle and what led to the bottle being on a shelf.

“As a brand we are making a strong push to organics and sustainability. It’s a long slow process,” she says. “Mac Forbes has been around 15 years and we have processes that have been set and we’re slowly changing that – we want to be carbon negative if possible.”

Behind the Vines allows consumers to discover regions they may have overlooked or learn something new about a region such as the Yarra Valley which they didn’t know before.

“Historically, the Yarra Valley region has been seen as very expensive … It’s not just that anymore.

There’s a lot more here. We are pushing more to sustainability and environmental consciousness and there is something for everyone here,” Hodges says.

HANNAH HODGES

At Wantirna Estate, Reg Egan, now in his 90s, planted his first vintage in 1963, but didn’t begin running the vineyard proper until he quit his day job as a lawyer in 1984. Together with his wife Bertina, they found a passion for wine after spending their honeymoon in France – marking the occasion with plenty of cellar-door visits.

These days, their daughter Maryann Egan runs the show, with her father helping from the sideline.

The winery is known for its small selection of wines steeped in French barrel fermentation.

The winery – usually only open two Saturdays a year – didn’t have anyone come through last year due to the pandemic. Egan says the arrival of a wine portal will help people discover what they have been doing at the property for many decades. ●

Winemaker Reg Egan in the early days of Wantirna Estate.

BEHIND THE VINES \ Digital wine directory

● vicwines.com.au

Richard and Donna are moving on to much bigger things.

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Agent: Marshall White Port Phillip, liver Bruce 0409 856 599 Price: $4.3 million-4.6 million Expressions of interest: close noon, May 25

ALBERT PARK \ 62 ST VINCENT PLACE NORTH 3

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The immaculately presented facade of this 1860s doublelevel Victorian terrace is matched by the contemporary style of its fully renovated interior. Multiple skylights, voids and clerestory windows above the glazed bifold doors at the rear flood this three bedroom home with natural light. High-end brand names appear in every room‚ Miele appliances and Qasair rangehood in the kitchen, Danish Morso woodburning fire in the living room, Tretford carpets (made of Mongolian goat hair) in the upstairs bedrooms and Italian Bisazza tiles in the en suite. Designer lighting and remote blinds add to the luxury, while additional storage is provided by a fully lined attic and separate shed, which is tucked away behind a tiled feature wall in the Japanese-inspired north-facing garden oasis. ● JOANNE BROOKFIELD

Agent: Marshall White Port Phillip, Sarah Wood 0408 902 827 Price: $3.3 million-$3.6 million

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