Domain Review Moonee Valley - October 23, 2019

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

OCTOBER 23-29, 2019

CORRIE PERKIN

A LOVING WORD ABOUT BOOKSHOPS

REAL ESTATE GOING WITH THE FLOW

CHEFS’ SECRETS CATCH THEM IN ACTION

M O O N E E VA L L E Y

H A M P S H I R E E M P I R E FAÇ A D E .

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The editor’s desk

In this era of meal-delivery apps, this week’s cover feature is a refreshing reminder that simple cooking is often best. Writer Sofia Levin interviews five of Melbourne’s tops chefs to extract their secrets to success in the kitchen – specifically, the techniques and approaches that can be replicated at home. This weekend, why not try whipping up a spaghetti el burro (pasta, butter, cooking water and cheese), the go-to dish of Tipo 00 co-owner Andreas Papadakis.

And your rice will never be fluffier than if you follow the wisdom of our cover star Yosuke Hatanaka – artful sushi master of Neil Perry’s Sake. ●

HAVE YOUR SAY AND

WIN

OUR COVER \ Yosuke Hatanaka, brand culinary chef at Sake Restaurant and Bar. Photographed by Julian Kingma.

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FIRST PERSON

“ I am Dr Erich Fitzgerald ” … a palaeontologist & senior curator, Vertebrate Palaeontology at Museums Victoria An old family friend told me that they have a memory of me at the age of about four or five saying, “When I grow up, I’m going to be a palaeontologist. Do you know what that is?”. I’ve had a one-tracked mind ever since.

When I finished secondary school, I wasn’t that interested initially in pursuing a science degree. So, looking at what had the most flexibility, I enrolled in an arts degree, but I ended up studying about 75 per cent science subjects.

Those subjects really rekindled my childhood passion for fossils and evolution, so at the end of the year I switched to science and studied every subject I thought would lead to me having a good tilt at becoming a palaeontologist. It’s a notoriously difficult field to get into because it’s so competitive and there’s so few jobs.

When I was at university, I started volunteering at Museums Victoria. I’d unpack the fossils that were sitting in rows and rows of cabinets in an underground vault. It was like being in an Aladdin’s Cave for me. I went to the US to do an 18-month postdoctoral at the Smithsonian Institution. I came back to Melbourne to do another temporary fellowship at Museums Victoria and from there was lucky enough to come on staff.

Unfortunately, it’s not every day that we get to head out into the wild somewhere to do field work, digging up millions-of-years-old bones and teeth. A lot of it is answering emails, writing reports and checking student manuscripts.

On average, three to six weeks of the year is spent out in the field. However, right now we’ve got a major project around the exploration and discovery of a top-secret fossil site right here in metropolitan Melbourne. It’s literally in the suburbs.

I can’t reveal where it is, but I can give you a hint of what’s there. It’s a huge site where we’re finding the 5 million-year old fossils of gigantic sharks the size of a train carriage, ancient whales, sea birds that have fangs growing out of their beaks and wingspans as wide as a Toyota LandCruiser. We’re in the early stages, but it promises to be one of the most important urban fossil sites ever to be discovered in the world. ● ● museumsvictoria.com.au

As told to

M E G C R AW F O R D ●

Ph o t o

J U LIA N KI N G M A

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COVER STORY

M

elbourne is blessed with talented chefs, but cooking at home is vastly different to cooking in a restaurant. We rallied five experts to provide tips, bust myths and help you take your home cooking to the next level.

PASTA

Andreas Papadakis HEAD CHEF AND CO-OWNER OF TIPO 00 & OSTERIA

Chef lessons

Culinary genius

A N D R E A S PA PA DA KI S

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KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

Melbourne’s best chefs share tips to take home cooking from ho-hum to oh-yum.

While Andreas Papadakis appreciates the tradition of pasta making, he’s not a purist and limits himself to 20-minute recipes when cooking for the family.

“I never make fresh pasta at home because there are some traditionally bronze-extruded pastas that you can get in Australia that are just amazing. My favourite is called Gentile … it takes 17 minutes to cook and it’s only semolina and water, no eggs or flour.”

Spaghetti al burro is his go-to dish: nothing more than pasta, butter, cooking water and cheese.

“In the past flatmates or partners would be like, ‘What are you eating, spaghetti and cheese? That sounds horrible!’ and then they would taste it,” Papadakis says.

At home, he suggests pimping spaghetti with a little garlic, chilli, anchovy, broccolini, panko bread crumbs and olive oil to impress.

If making pasta from scratch, the secret is dry dough. “When you think your pasta dough is too dry, it’s probably not dry enough,” Papadakis says. “You have to keep working it. It will be a massive pain in the arse to put it in the pasta roller, but when it goes through a couple of times, it works perfectly.”

Wo r d s

S O F IA L E VI N

PASTRY

Kate Reid DIRECTOR AND FOUNDER OF

YO S U K E H ATA N A K A

SUSHI

JULIAN KINGMA

LUNE CROISSANTERIE

K AT E R E I D

BURGERS

PHO

Greg Pappas

Jerry Mai

CO-OWNER OF ANDREW’S

OWNER AND CHEF OF

RESTAURANT & BAR

HAMBURGERS

ANNAM & PHO NOM

The art of sushi runs in Yosuke Hatanaka’s DNA. Both his father and brother are sushi chefs, while he oversees all six Sake restaurants in the Rockpool Dining Group.

But you don’t have to be a sushi master to make sushi. “It’s a very technical thing to master, but it’s an easy thing to get into,” he says.

Quality fish is important and you’ll need wasabi, pickled ginger, rice vinegar seasoning and soy sauce.

Japanese short grain rice makes a huge difference, while more expensive nori (seaweed) sheets are thicker and easier to work with.

Use a rice cooker for an even finish, a sharp knife and bamboo sushi-rolling mat lined with cling film to avoid sticking.

Prepare ahead but don’t use cold rice, which becomes hard instead of warm and fluffy. Fish should be body temperature to better taste the flavour, but the greatest sushi sin is to mix wasabi and soy.

“You have to treat wasabi like mustard – take a little bit with your chopstick. No mixing and dunking, that’s just wrong,” Hatanaka says.

Andrew’s Hamburgers (below) turns 80 years old in November. Greg Pappas started working there under his uncle when he was 12, so he knows a thing or two about burgers.

“It has to start with the basic, core ingredients, which are, of course, a great pattie and a great roll,” Pappas says. “Your pattie can’t be too lean because it will become too dry, but it can’t be too fatty because it will be too greasy, so you have to find the happy medium.”

Get the butcher to specify the fat percentage. Around 15 per cent is the sweet spot.

Cook it on a very hot plate, “but not too hot or the meat will burn”. As for buns, Pappas recommends using oldschool white hamburger buns.

Vietnamese people are surprised to find out Jerry Mai doesn’t use MSG in her pho. Others have admitted they prefer it to their mother’s.

As for Mai, she judges pho on the broth’s depth of flavour. She says we have better produce than Vietnam, but if there’s one thing home cooks and professionals need aside from quality ingredients to make decent pho, it’s time.

“A lot of broth is quick-finished with MSG. Instead of taking a long time using a large amount of bones, it’s cooked over a short time and the umami comes from MSG,” says Mai, whose restaurants cook their broth overnight on a low heat.

Mai suggests using beef marrow bones and avoiding others with too much blood in them, like neck and back bones, which cloud the broth.

Marrow bones from a western butcher are around $9 per kilogram, so visit an Asian butcher for pho bones at around $1.50 per kilogram.

To keep stock clear, Mai blanches the bones to rid them of impurities, throwing out the water and starting the stock afresh.

JOSH ROBENSTONE

Yosuke Hatanaka BRAND CULINARY CHEF AT SAKE

Croissant queen Kate Reid doesn’t recommend making croissants at home. ”There’s a reason why everyone in Paris just goes to the boulangerie,” she says. “If you want to do it properly, you have to allocate three days on and off to make them.”

For those who want to put in the time, it’s important to pick the right butter. Look for one that’s pale in colour without watery pockets, as water creates gaps in lamination.

If you’d rather buy your croissant, look for those with a straight edge. In France, classic boulangers are allowed to shape their croissants in a straight line only when they’re made with pure butter.

“I also look for a good golden colour,” Reid adds. “You see a lot of anaemic-looking croissants out there and that’s usually a sign they’ve been par-baked or frozen and finished off in the bakery.”

In terms of input versus enjoyment, Reid thinks the best return on baking time is the humble scone. “Scones for me are the most underrated baked good … that gratification that you can get within one or two hours from setting out to eating, that’s something so special that baking gives us.” ●

J E R RY M AI ’ S PH O

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VILL AGE LIFE

A love letter to our bookstores

W

Wo r d s

ELIANA SCHOULAL

Melbourne’s commitment to culture is keeping a tradition alive.

C O R RI E PE R KI N

WHATEVER YOU GROW WILL SAVE A BRO S I G N

U P

N OW

hen I decided to open a bookshop, I rang my friend Bob Sessions – then publishing director at Penguin – to ask his advice.

“Did you remember to take your pills this morning?” he said with a chuckle. When he realised I was serious, Bob urged caution, adding that bespoke indie bookstores were under threat by Amazon, Borders, Kindle and the like, and I should think carefully about this kind of hefty investment.

It was May 2009, and over the next few weeks I talked to dozens of friendly advisors – booksellers included – about what to do. Most supported Bob’s premise that village bookstores were in for tough times. But the dream to create a family business that placed books at its heart just wouldn’t go away.

A couple of years ago in an article for The Atlantic, award-winning American author Ann Patchett recalled the heady days after she and her husband decided to invest in a bookshop in their local Nashville area.

“When I look back on all this now, I’m dizzied by the blitheness that stood in place of any sort of business sense, like the grand gesture of walking

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THE ODDLY SEXY ONE

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S I G N

U P

N OW

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CHANGE THE FACE OF MEN’S HEALTH THE LOPSIDED ONE 12

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THE HALF DECENT ONE

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THE FIRST ONE

THE WISPY ONE

“Figures tell us Melburnians consume more books, magazines and newspapers per capita than any other city in Australia.” over to the roulette table and betting it all on a single number,’’ Patchett wrote. Blitheness, crazy thinking, a dream to fulfil – whatever the nature of the fever, it also took hold of me.

This month our little Hawksburn store celebrates its 10th birthday. In that time, Borders has closed, Kindle sales have plateaued, and more people tell us they are returning to books because they are concerned about the amount of time they spend each day on electronic devices.

And although Amazon is still hanging around like a cocksure, wealthy old uncle at a family wedding, Melbourne’s independent bookstore culture remains intact.

There have been plenty of hairy moments and night terrors in my life as a bookseller. While, sadly, nine Melbourne bookshops have closed in the past two years, more than 170 continue to operate as

community hubs for their book-loving customers.

Am I naive to think our city’s fabulous book havens can weather the current financial storms and global retail disruptions? Possibly. But I am also a big believer in Melbourne’s commitment to culture. We love our galleries. We love a night at the theatre. We go to the ballet, we attend concerts, we book tickets to festivals ... and we read books.

In 2008, Melbourne became the second official UNESCO City of Literature (there are now 28 Cities of Literature across six continents). As part of its bid, the Victorian Government was required to prove the city has a thriving literary culture.

This wasn’t difficult. Australian Bureau of Statistics figures tell us Melburnians consume more books, magazines and newspapers per capita than any other city in Australia, we have the highest concentration of community book clubs in the

CELEBRATE

country, and the State Library in Swanston Street (the oldest in Australia, founded in 1854) attracts more than 1.9 million visitors each year.

We also have an extraordinary public asset in the Wheeler Centre, which offers Melburnians a chance to attend more than 180 (mostly free) literary and ideas-inspired events each year.

Meanwhile, Melbourne’s bookshops each week play host to author talks, poetry readings, book clubs, story-time for pre-schoolers and writing classes. Places like Readings in Carlton, The Avenue Bookstore’s Albert Park headquarters, Bourke Street’s Hill of Content and Paperback Bookshop are cultural institutions and tourist magnets.

Melbourne’s bookshop ecology is alive and well and operating in a suburb near you. It’s inclusive, it’s exciting, and it’s yours.

Long may we celebrate together. ● Corrie Perkin is an award-winning journalist and former managing editor of The Age, and the owner of My Bookshop in Hawksburn. Corrie is also a Wheeler Centre Board member.

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FEATURE HOUSE

DOWNLOAD THE DOMAIN APP SEE MORE IMAGES, FLOOR PLANS & PROPERTY DETAILS

KEILOR \ 46 CHURCH STREET 4

2

1

This home would satisfy everything a family would need to just move in and start enjoying the lifestyle. It has an easy flowing floor plan, presentation is immaculate and an indoor/outdoor zone is all laid out and ready to entertain friends and family.

The location also has a lot of appeal – especially for those who appreciate green spaces, sport and nature. Keilor Football Club is at the end of the street and the tennis club is on its border. Calder Rise Neighbourhood Park is close and the vast Green Gully Reserve with its sporting clubs, the equally vast Brimbank Park, known for its playgrounds, and Keilor Park Recreation Reserve, are in the neighbourhood.

Schools, shopping and buses are also nearby.

Living areas are on one side of the house and open to the north at the rear and bedrooms are ranged down the other side. An outlook to the attractively landscaped gardens from most rooms is a bonus.

Entry is to the large living room which is cosily carpeted and has a wall of windows to the front garden. The kitchen, with gleaming white benchtops and cabinetry, has a large walk-in pantry, wine storage, and extensive storage in cupboards and drawers. Appliances include a Miele oven and cooktop and a Bosch dishwasher.

The 6.4-metre-long family room, at the rear of the home, has a fireplace and double doors to a large undercover entertaining deck. Gleaming hardwood floors are laid in the family room and kitchen.

The deck is elevated and charmingly surrounded by a picket fence. It’s a relaxing spot with views into treetops and

FINAL WORD

across the neighbourhood.

On the lower level at the rear, a large rumpus room with tongue and groove dado panelling would make a great kids’

“THIS IMPECCABLE FAMILY HOME OFFERS AN ENVIABLE LIFESTYLE IN ONE OF KEILOR’S BEST LOCATIONS.” MICHAEL MCCOY – AGENT

zone and there is also a wine cellar.

The main bedroom at the front of the house has a shower en suite and walk-in wardrobe. Two of the remaining three bedrooms have built-in wardrobes.

The house has a large fitted laundry with cupboards, heating and cooling, and there is mezzanine storage in the garage. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Brad Teal, Michael McCoy 0402 090 211 Price: $1.2 million-$1.3 million Private sale

Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing

SHORTLIST YOUR FAVOURITE HOMES WITH THE DOMAIN APP 14

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MOONEE PONDS \ 1 ATHOL STREET 4

2

3

Proudly showing off the grand flourishes that make the Victorian era so loved, this Moonee Ponds home blends its opulent atmosphere with contemporary comfort and functionality. The kitchen has reminders of the era in cabinetry and fittings, but the things that matter, such as the 900-millimetre Smeg stove, are modern. The bathroom is similar – Victorian aesthetic, but modern convenience.

Other areas, such as the study, with desk tops crafted from the pews from nearby St Paul’s Anglican Church, reflect local history. Open fireplaces, soaring ceilings and an al fresco area off the dining and living area make this home remarkable. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON Agent: Rendina, Lou Rendina 0418 525 415 Price: $1.55 million-$1.65 million Auction: 11am, October 26

Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing

33 Glen Shian Crescent, Mount Eliza 4

2

2

Shoreline Commanding Port Phillip Bay’s best front row position with unparalleled views across azure waters and the city skyline, this absolute beachfront property delivers a once in a lifetime opportunity with direct access to the sand. Located in Mount Eliza’s Golden Mile, the magnificent bluestone residence is designed around a central courtyard on a north-facing 2222sqm (approx.) allotment overlooking Canadian Bay Beach. Filled with light and unique charm, the four-bedroom, two-bathroom home showcases multiple living zones, a gourmet kitchen plus a solar-heated swimming pool and gas-heated spa. Just steps from the Canadian Bay Club, this private oasis offers an exclusive lifestyle with breathtaking views never to be built out.

Grand Open Price

Saturday 26th October 3-3:30pm $4.5 - $4.95 Million

For further details please contact the selling agent Nicholas Lynch 0411 121 356 nicholas.lynch@nl.com.au nicholaslynch.com.au

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27 Mackay Street Essendon 3

2

2

461

Auction 11.00am Saturday 16th November Open Thursday 6.00pm - 6.30pm & Saturday 2.00pm - 2.30pm Contact Bruce Warburton 0418 599 337 | Connie Dragovic 0466 996 256 Essendon | 9374 2199 | bradteal.com.au

This captivating three bedroom plus study/fourth bedroom, two bathroom Edwardian residence showcases heritage details and high end finishes throughout elegant lounge, fireside living/dining and French Provincial kitchen. Features private alfresco entertaining areas, excellent storage, heating/cooling, solar electricity, double carport. Close to elite schools, Allison Park, cafes, shops and transport.

AUCTION

THIS SATURDAY

29A Haldane Rd Niddrie

5/39-41 Flemington Street Travancore

4

2

3

2

1

1

Supremely spacious, this brand new four bedroom, three luxury bathroom executive residence showcases stunning open plan living/dining/stone kitchen, study, private alfresco, opulent bedrooms/WIRS, heating/cooling, garage. Near Keilor Road precinct, PEGS, transport and freeways.

Located on the gateway to the city, near cafes, shops, schools, transport and CityLink, this modern two bedroom apartment features a balcony with city views, open plan living/dining/stone kitchen, WIR/BIR, central bathroom, European laundry, split-system air conditioner, secure entry, car space.

Auction 2.00pm Saturday 26th October

Auction 2.00pm Saturday 16th November

Open Wednesday 5.00pm - 5.15pm & Saturday 1.30pm - 2.00pm EPR $1,200,000-$1,300,000 Contact Rodney Callahan 0418 131 123 | Brett Robinson 0431 050 431 Essendon | 9374 2199 | bradteal.com.au

Open Wednesday 5.00pm - 5.30pm & Saturday 11.15am - 11.45am Contact Andrew Butler 0417 535 891 | Annabelle Robinson 0457 330 200 Ascot Vale | 9370 1111 | bradteal.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

17

18

DOM A IN REV IEW

29 Selborne Road

3

Conveniently located to Toorak Village, this stunning Rob Mills designed home, offers a hassle-free lifestyle. Soaring ceilings and wide hallway flow past a sunny study, formal dining and living featuring a gas fireplace, while open plan living adjoins a contemporary kitchen appointed with Miele appliances and granite bench tops. Upstairs, the main bedroom with balcony features walk in and built in robes and an impeccable ensuite, while two additional double bedrooms offer BIR´s and ensuites. Also features courtyard, terrace and double garage.

3

2

Auction: Saturday 2nd November at 11.30am View: Wednesday & Saturday 1.00-1.30pm Contact: Mark Williams 0417 189 377 Ada Taylor 0428 058 880 Office 9864 5300

abercrombys.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

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auctions sat 26thoctober 10.00am Airport west 36 Kingsley Road

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58 Daley St

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5 Coventry St

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Thu 6pm, Fri 5.30pm, Sat 7pm

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