Domain Review Melbourne Times - July 17, 2019

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

JULY 17-23, 2019

MARYAM OMAR CAPTAIN AT THE CREASE

ASHLEY PALMER-WATTS DIN N ER W ITH THE CU LINA RY W IZ A RD

MELBOURNE TIMES

DESIGN

MEMORIES TO TREASURE

REAL ESTATE ART DECO WITH EXTRAS

Artist impression

Artist impression

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The editor’s desk

When Heston Blumenthal’s Meat Fruit (a centuries-old Tudor recipe) arrives at the table at his Melbourne restaurant Dinner, it’s a moment that must be shared. I usually subscribe to the motto “eat it, don’t tweet it”, but this is too tempting not to. Scan Twitter and Instagram and you’ll see slow-motion iPhone replays of knives piercing the delicately puckered mandarin gel skin, revealing buttery chicken liver parfait within.

Fashioned to look like ripe citrus, it plays with the mind and the palate.

Meet Dinner’s chef director Ashley Palmer-Watts, and discover this culinary magic in our cover story. ●

LOOKING GLASS \ Art deco is never out of style.

DELICIOUS \ Hanoi Hannah’s Good Morning Vietnam

The glamorous Bonnet Mirror by Elena Salmistraro

brunch on July 21 pairs chef Anthony Choi with

for Houtique, at The Montauk Lighting Co, is a bold

STREAT’s baker Didiet Radityawan, raising money to

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fight youth homelessness. ● hanoihannah.com.au

THE EDIT What we love at Domain Review

OUR COVER \ Ashley Palmer-Watts at Dinner by Heston, Crown Melbourne. Photo by Julian Kingma.

MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Emily Power Deputy editor \ Jessica Dale Picture editor \ Leigh Henningham Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial assistant \ Hailey Coules Managing editor \ Alice Stolz Chief consumer officer \ Jason Chuck Jason Pellegrino Real estate sales director \ Mitch Armstrong \ 0438 820 767 mitch.armstrong@domain.com.au Retail sales \ retailsales@sales.domain.com.au

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REVIEW Domain Review is published by Domain Holdings Australia Limited and is printed by Elephant Group (Aust) Pty Ltd, 24c Victoria Street Windsor VIC 3181. All material is copyright.

MELBOURNE TIMES

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FIRST PERSON

““I am Maryam Omar ” … and I’m captain of the Kuwait women’s cricket team Playing competitive sport isn’t a traditional role

for women in the Middle East. My three sisters conformed to social expectations and like cooking, fashion and socialising with friends. I love cricket and am a spin bowler and opening batter.

Coming to Australia, I had one goal in my mind and that was to play cricket, but because I came to study I was determined to do well and keep my grades high.

I arrived in Melbourne three years ago on an inaugural scholarship between the Australian College of Kuwait and Central Queensland University to study civil engineering.

I was welcomed and received a lot of support from the university which helped me progress and achieve bigger goals. I graduated last June. In April 2018, I began as a casual at Pitt & Sherry, an engineering consultancy in Southbank. They liked my work and offered me a full-time job.

We are working on Melbourne’s Metro Tunnel rail project. I really enjoy the inspections and going out on site, it’s my favourite part of the job.

I’m super proud to captain my national side and it’s an honour to play international cricket. We play annual competitions within our region. This year, we played the World Cup qualifiers – we don’t have a games schedule as such because we are a non-Test playing country.

When I came to Melbourne, I was connected to Essendon Maribyrnong Park, the oldest women’s cricket club in the world. The Bombers were welcoming, which meant I could play and do what I’m passionate about.

We won the Twenty20 grand final that season.

The following summer I was awarded player of the match in the grand final, as we won back-to-back titles. The game was on a live stream and my family were able to watch back home.

Last season, I moved to Dandenong Cricket Club for more opportunity to play in the first XI and we were fortunate enough to win the T20 title, beating my former side EMP. My ultimate goal is to play in the Big Bash (WBBL) here in Australia and, from a team perspective, I’d like to take Kuwait to the next level and put together a team that is professional enough to compete and play in World Cup qualifiers. ●

As told to

M E G A N H U S T WA IT E ●

Ph o t o

J U LIA N KI N G M A

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COVER STORY

Flights of fancy From Melbourne to London, chef Heston Blumenthal’s creative partner Ashley Palmer-Watts is in charge of the world’s most imaginative menu.

H

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Heston out to my table. We talked for a bit and after that I wrote to him and said I’d love to spend a few weeks at the Fat Duck and do a stint in the holidays.

The rest is history.”

Palmer-Watts says the menu at Dinner, at Melbourne’s Crown, begins with a curiosity and has a strong link to the past. There’s no set pattern to recipe development, just lots of trial and error with many dishes taking years to perfect.

“It’s a way of life for us,” he says. “We don’t think about it in terms of time– it’s about taste.”

As of July 16, Dinner in Melbourne launches its always evolving degustation-only menu, with matching tipples from its wine director. Among the magic is a revamped Rice and Flesh dish (a take on a Risotto Milanese) with almond, saffron, lamb sweetbreads and smoked olive oil for a new realisation of a Heston classic.

“The recipe originated in a manuscript The Forme of Cury dated 1390 and lives in the British Library,” Palmer-Watts says.

“When we revisited the dish last year, we wanted

ALISA COONAN

e’s Heston Blumenthal’s right-hand man, divides his time between Melbourne and London and been on more than 46 long haul flights between both cities in the past five years alone. Welcome to a day in the life of Dinner By Heston’s chef director Ashley PalmerWatts, who had thought about joining the army until an email changed his life.

“I’ve been working with Heston for almost 20 years, I can remember the day we met – it was August 28,” says Palmer-Watts, who grew up in a small town in Dorset, England and takes this call while back in London to visit his wife Emma and their two children Max, 9, and Sophia, 7.

“To be honest I never thought my life would come to this, [even though] you know I dreamed of working in a Michelin star restaurant one day,” he says. “I had an uncle and aunt visit me at the London restaurant not long ago. They’re from the same village I grew up in. They couldn’t believe it – they were blown away by the food. It seems normal to me now, but they looked at me with eyes of ‘this is anything but normal’.”

Blumenthal and Palmer-Watts started working together in 1999 and the rest is history – both a culinary science experiment and a meeting of the minds. They’re both obsessive-compulsive in their work ethic, have made the World’s Best 50 Restaurants list (with Dinner by Heston in London ranked 83rd in 2019) and prove there’s a lot to gain by digging deep in 14th and 15th-century cooking manuscripts.

“I had read about Heston in a magazine but that was sort of it at the time,” Palmer-Watts recalls of meeting him at the Fat Duck in the ’90s.

“I ate at his restaurant – more like a bistro back then; the meal was amazing but it wasn’t perfect, the restaurant was pretty cold and uncomfortable but it looked cool,” he says matter-of-factly.

“I ordered a delice chocolate cylinder filled with mousse, biscuit with cherries and vanilla ice cream for dessert. It tasted amazing. I quizzed his maitre d’ Nigel about the recipe and he called

PA L M E R -WAT T S & H E S T O N B LU M E N T H A L

to take it down its original almond root path rather than saffron being the dominant ingredient … it took six months to perfect.”

As Heston’s chief protege, Palmer-Watts is also a master of time zone differences, often hooking up at all hours to keep both kitchens running smoothly.

He says he doesn’t have time to think about jet lag when he lands in Melbourne.

“It’s like anything, the more you do it, the better you get at dealing with it,” he says.

“But, of course, just as I’m ready to fall asleep in Melbourne, the UK is waking up and then my mind is on that.”

F

rom the famous Meat Fruit (circa 1500) to Salamagundy (circa 1720), no meal brushes with the past like Blumenthal’s molecular empire, but sourcing ingredients to keep the flavours in sync is Palmer-Watts’ greatest priority.

“To be fair, every recipe we have in London has to go through a localisation period,” he says. “It’s sent to the team in Melbourne and they’re talked through it on FaceTime and they will use their skills to adapt the dish.

“They know how we cook and adjust the recipe using local flours and flavours so everything is slightly different because local ingredients tell the story of that country’s food best, but we aim to get them as close as is possible.”

Palmer-Watts is the sort of guy you’d dream of being in business with. He’s always got Blumenthal’s back and has to finish what the wizard often starts – from trains of thought to business meetings.

“We mostly share the same beliefs, but don’t always agree,” he smiles.

Palmer-Watts is also the one who connects the dots when Blumenthal reels off ideas.

“Heston told me about a guy who made cutlery that he wanted me to meet in Melbourne,” he begins. “I was told David was scared of heights and probably won’t come up to the restaurant but I could meet him in the lower level of Crown.

“Heston said I had to order cutlery from him, and

“It is a way of life for us. We don’t think about it in terms of time – it’s about taste.”

ASHLEY PALMER-WATTS

I was thinking, great, I’ve just ordered everything for the restaurant and that’s not possible.”

Turns out the man who is afraid of heights was Australian artist David Bromley, a sculptor and painter who doesn’t specialise in cutlery, but made three artistic sets that looked very Alice in Wonderland or destined for the set of a movie starring Johnny Depp.

“David showed me these bronze, pirate-like cutlery pieces and I wasn’t quite sure what to do with them,” Palmer-Watts says.

“It turned out David made the sets for three people – one was Heston, the others were Johnny Depp and the Rolling Stones’ Keith Richards. He’s given a set to all of them and, while we didn’t get them for the restaurant, David ended up doing three art pieces for our restaurant so he’s part of our family now, too.” ●

CHRIS HOPKINS

● dinnerbyheston.com.au

Ashley’s Melbourne Favourite cafe I love Proud Mary (above). They don’t make you feel like you’re not part of the hipster coffee scene when you walk in. The food and coffee is great.

Place of quiet reflection I love to cycle to Mordialloc or the Dandenongs if I have time. I love being by the JULIAN KINGMA

sea, we don’t have that in London.

Must-see for art & culture I always love to go and visit David Bromley and his wife Yuge in his studio on Chapel

Wo r d s

JA N E R O C CA

Street, Windsor.

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DESIGN

The art of remembrance A book series preserves treasured memories of Australian artists.

“We’d be in her bedroom surrounded by her beautiful books and artworks, and I’d often bring her lunch,” she says. “The afternoon would unfold with conversation and it never felt so different from the times we’d go to a cafe, even though she was ill. I always felt slightly lost in her conversation because I loved our friendship so much.”

Now, a year after her friend’s death, King is the series editor behind two books that form part of Thames & Hudson’s new Mini Monographs series,

N ATA LI E KI N G

SEAN FENNESSY

C

urator Natalie King and artist Polixeni Papapetrou enjoyed a decades-long friendship that carried them through motherhood, a passion for photography and ultimately over the threshold of Papapetrou’s terminal illness.

When Papatetrou’s days were increasingly spent at home, King remembers visiting her there, when the signs of foreboding would fall away and be replaced instead by conversation, laughter and shared interests.

Wo r d s

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The Mini Monographs series celebrate Australian photographer Polixeni Papapetrou and two-time Archibald Prize winner Del Kathryn Barton.

which celebrates Australian female artists. One is on Papapetrou, the other on two-time Archibald Prize winner Del Kathryn Barton.

Both are miniature treasure troves, each filled with up to 80 images, and featuring a writer’s reflections on the featured artist’s work.

For Papapetrou’s book, another long-time girlfriend relays the secret whispers of friendship: playwright Joanna Murray-Smith deftly relaying the complicated shorthand of two women.

“We gave equal time to existentialism and good underwear,” she writes.

2019 College Production – Hairspray

“We could move conversationally from how we are all bound to our mothers for good and ill to what Nicole Kidman wore at the Emmys.”

King says Papapetrou taught her so much, particularly on the art of gift-giving.

“She often had a small trinket waiting for me whenever I went to visit her – a little notebook or a coin purse or a scarf, something that would have been very much handpicked for me,” she says.

“When I curated the Venice Biennale [in 2017], I didn’t know what shoes to wear, and she lent me her Stella McCartney platform shoes.

“To say I was impressed would be a significant understatement.”

“I was blown away by your talented students in the cast, backstage and band.”

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“She [later] gave them to me to keep. I still wear them all the time.” But giving was reciprocal, with King behind the publication that’s become a tribute to the friend she simply calls “Poli”.

She recalls the thrill of handing an advance copy to Papatetrou’s two children, including daughter Olympia who made it onto the book’s cover.

In that photograph by her mother, Heart (from the series Eden Eden), she wears a floral dress and peeps out from behind a heart-shape flower wreath, blending into the backdrop of flora that she stands against.

The photograph is just one that Papapetrou and King selected together, ordering the book’s sequence and ensuring it had the optimum rhythms inside.

The back of the book features a rousing endorsement from Frances Morris, the director of Tate Modern, who says the series celebrates “Australia’s most captivating artists … and their best loved works” but it’s this cover photo to which King returns. “The way the foreground and background merge, it’s like time being compressed. I wondered if she was thinking about the Garden of Eden, paradise and the afterlife.” ●

B

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SAM WOOD \ FITNESS

Squaring the circle of friends

I

think we can all admit that we are a product of our environment to some degree, and a large part of that environment is the people in it.

The late American motivational speaker Jim Rohn once said, “You are the average of the five people you spend the most time with”.

I love this quote and I definitely think there is some truth in it.

However, it’s 2019 and I think we need to look a little bit further than this.

Our digital circle has a much greater impact than perhaps we realise.

In my space, with an online fitness program, I am fortunate enough to see technology help tens of thousands of people every day. But not for one second do I think it is only positive.

Technology can be your best friend or your worst enemy depending on how and when you use it.

Think about those around you and ask yourself, are these people influencing my life for the better?

Are they having a positive influence on the way I think, the way I act and the way I feel?

Life is too short to spend time with people who don’t enrich it.

To extend this even further, are you looking beyond your social circle to the social media accounts and broader media that you interact with every day?

Who are you following? Why are you following them? What effect or impact is it having on you?

You might not consider this your immediate circle but for many people, they are who or what you interact with the most.

We have to take control of what we experience and if you want to experience positivity, you need to surround yourself with it – especially online.

s! a W nd E a Nam to

amandas 10

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COLLECTION NOW IN STORE 91 Doncaster Rd Balwyn North Tel: 9859 6887 www.amandasboutique.com.au

“Life is too short to spend time with people who don’t enrich it.”

ISTOCK

You can’t always control what you see but you do have the ability to make social media a more positive place for you and unfollow people or pages that do the opposite.

As someone who understands social media better than most, I’m the first to say that what you see online with most people is not a reflection of real life. Comparing your reality to someone’s highlight reel is never going to feel good.

So consider this a little push to make sure you are following accounts that make you feel happy, that inspire you, that make you laugh and that bring positivity into your day. ● ● 28bysamwood.com

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FEATURE HOUSE

DOWNLOAD THE DOMAIN APP SEE MORE IMAGES, FLOOR PLANS & PROPERTY DETAILS

PRESTON \ 7 DUNSTAN STREET 3

2

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Art deco is a glamorous style with a lick of luxury even in its most subdued applications: there is a riff on the Jazz Age and a flourish of The Great Gatsby. Houses built during this era have enduring and classic appeal.

In this Preston home, the art deco flourishes are relatively modest but gorgeous. The high ceilings have large and exquisite decorative panels and are bordered with ornate cornices. Timber is used for window frames, picture rails, skirting boards, doors and door frames. Fireplaces, light fittings and even small items, such as vents, all echo the era.

Glossy solid hardwood is an appropriate flooring.

At the front, and facing north, the main bedroom suite includes an en suite and a walk-in wardrobe. The second and third bedrooms also open on to the hall.

The formal lounge here has glorious double doors – timber with beautifully shaped and variously textured glass panels.

There is also a fireplace of intricately detailed brickwork.

Beyond is a large fitted laundry with access to roof storage on one side of the hall, and the family bathroom with separate bath and shower on the other.

The large and light living, dining and kitchen area follows.

The style of the home’s original section has been referenced in this new area with the same timber used for door and window frames, and the picture rail continued. The stylish kitchen, also timber, has a feature curved breakfast bar, Smeg appliances and a full-height pantry.

A bank of doors and windows along the rear wall opens to a covered entertaining area looking out to the landscaped garden. The house is on about 640 square metres and has

FINAL WORD

ducted heating, airconditioning, linen cupboards, water tanks holding more than 13,000 litres and a side driveway.

The family appeal is enhanced by the home being opposite W.K. Larkins Reserve with its playground, picnic seating

“THIS RENOVATED ART DECO PROPERTY OFFERS FAMILY LIVING OF A HIGH STANDARD IN A CONVENIENT LOCATION.” MICHELLE PORTELLI – AGENT

and barbecues. Newlands Primary School and Coburg High School are close by.

Buses run down nearby Gilbert Road while Coburg Hill Shopping Centre is close and the legendary Preston Market is a short drive away. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Nelson Alexander, Michelle Portelli 0414 758 541 Price: $1.1 million-$1.15 million Auction: 12.30pm, July 20

Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing

SHORTLIST YOUR FAVOURITE HOMES WITH THE DOMAIN APP 12

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CARLTON \ 1/8 CARLTON STREET 3

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This location offers urban living at its most interesting and convenient. Opposite Carlton Gardens, in a quiet and pretty corner, the apartment is within striking distance of Rathdowne Street’s shops and restaurants and, a little further on, all the cosmopolitan fun of Lygon Street. The three-bedroom dwelling is spacious with a north-facing courtyard providing casual dining options. The open-plan living area is large and light and opens to a smaller courtyard at the front. The kitchen has stainless steel appliances; the main bedroom suite has an en suite and built-in wardrobe, and there is a Euro laundry. The apartment has secure entry and basement parking. � BEVERLEY JOHANSON Agent: Top Lane, Anthony Verrochi 0409 477 533 Price: $1.2 million-$1.25 million Auction: 12.30pm, July 20

Open your camera and hover your phone over the app code to view the listing

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91 Ballantyne Street Thornbury .................................

lovere.com.au 3 Bed | 1 Bath | 1 Parking .................................

Handsomely combining period elegance with spaces designed for contemporary family living, this three bedroom Edwardian with Northcote High zoning excels. .................................

Guide $1,100,000 - $1,200,000 Auction Saturday 3rd August at 11.00am Open Wednesday 17 July 5:30 to 6:00pm & Saturday 20 July 11:00 to 11:30am .................................

George Theocharis 0415 578 809 Bill Kyriakopoulos 0419 008 008 03 9480 2288

790 High Street Thornbury .................................

lovere.com.au .................................

Located within the popular High Street precinct: * Land Area – 189m2 (approx.) * Building Area - 115m2 (approx.) * Securely leased on a 5 years lease commencing April 2018 with 2x 5 year options. .................................

Auction Thursday 25th July at 2.00pm Open Wednesday 17 July 3:00 to 3:30pm & Saturday 20 July 1:00 to 1:30pm .................................

Graham Love 0418 534 450 Branko Agatanovic 0448 035 565 03 9460 6220

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GaryPeer.com.au

2/11a Hawthorn Grove, Hawthorn

Auction

Inspect

Spacious family living in elite locale

Sat 3 Aug 10:30am

Wed 12:30-1:00pm Sat 3:00-3:30pm

3

A

2.5

B

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2-11aHawthornGroveHawthorn.com

Guide $1,400,000 - $1,540,000

Contact Benjamin Rothschild Mark Kirkham

0417 597 748 0408 338 896

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DIAMOND CREEK 25 Dering Street This impeccable 4-bedroom home is perfect for entertaining, delivering 2 stunning living zones, top quality kitchen, 2 lavish bathrooms, dream laundry, separate rumpus and a fabulous alfresco zone featuring a woodfired pizza oven and IG pool. Quality extras include a double garage, ducted heating/cooling, double glazing, home security, timber floors and seamless indoor/outdoor flow. An easy walk to the train, shops, bus and more – resort-style living can be yours!

For Sale

By Tender Closing Tues 30th July at 6:00pm Quote $920,000 - $1,010,000 Land size 650m2 approx.

View Thursday 5.00 - 5.30pm Saturday 12.00 - 12.30pm Shane Leete 0419 118 302 Peter Don 0410 609 006 Office 1004 Main Road, Eltham Phone 9439 4022

4

2

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www.buckinghamandcompany.com

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Enjoy Your Boutique Experience DOM A IN REV IEW

Proudly supporting

Hurstbridge 12 Anzac Av A enue Exceptional Lifestyle. Brilliant Location Utilising reclaimed reds, glass, timber and the luxury of stone to an impressive standard, this builder´s own home is a testament to sophisticated style, luxurious space, high-end finishes and superior comfort.

Perfectly appointed and maximising exposure to the north, it´s just footsteps from everything Hurstridge´s thriving main street has to offer and so close to the station you can claim a seat to the CBD every morning, An exceptional lifestyle in a brilliant location.

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Auction ESR Inspect Contact Contact Office Web

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Saturday 27th July at 12pm $650,000 - $700,000 Thursday 5 - 5:30pm & Saturday 11 - 11:30am Ciaran Brannigan 0410 544 478 Nick Dinakis 0410 742 804 9435 7666 12anzacavenue.com

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