PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE
OCTOBER 23-29, 2019
DYLAN MORAN
‘THE WORLD IS CRAZIER THAN EVER’
REAL ESTATE THE SALE OF A CENTURY
CHEFS’ SECRETS CATCH THEM IN ACTION
MELBOURNE TIMES
The editor’s desk
In this era of meal-delivery apps, this week’s cover feature is a refreshing reminder that simple cooking is often best. Writer Sofia Levin interviews five of Melbourne’s tops chefs to extract their secrets to success in the kitchen – specifically, the techniques and approaches that can be replicated at home. This weekend, why not try whipping up a spaghetti el burro (pasta, butter, cooking water and cheese), the go-to dish of Tipo 00 co-owner Andreas Papadakis. And your rice will never be fluffier than if you follow the wisdom of our cover star Yosuke Hatanaka – artful sushi master of Neil Perry’s Sake. ●
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OUR COVER \ Yosuke Hatanaka, brand culinary chef at Sake Restaurant and Bar. Photographed by Julian Kingma.
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FIRST PERSON
“ I am Dr Erich Fitzgerald ” … a palaeontologist & senior curator, Vertebrate Palaeontology at Museums Victoria An old family friend told me that they have a memory of me at the age of about four or five saying, “When I grow up, I’m going to be a palaeontologist. Do you know what that is?”. I’ve had a one-tracked mind ever since. When I finished secondary school, I wasn’t that interested initially in pursuing a science degree. So, looking at what had the most flexibility, I enrolled in an arts degree, but I ended up studying about 75 per cent science subjects. Those subjects really rekindled my childhood passion for fossils and evolution, so at the end of the year I switched to science and studied every subject I thought would lead to me having a good tilt at becoming a palaeontologist. It’s a notoriously difficult field to get into because it’s so competitive and there’s so few jobs. When I was at university, I started volunteering at Museums Victoria. I’d unpack the fossils that were sitting in rows and rows of cabinets in an underground vault. It was like being in an Aladdin’s Cave for me. I went to the US to do an 18-month postdoctoral at the Smithsonian Institution. I came back to Melbourne to do another temporary fellowship at Museums Victoria and from there was lucky enough to come on staff. Unfortunately, it’s not every day that we get to head out into the wild somewhere to do field work, digging up millions-of-years-old bones and teeth. A lot of it is answering emails, writing reports and checking student manuscripts. On average, three to six weeks of the year is spent out in the field. However, right now we’ve got a major project around the exploration and discovery of a top-secret fossil site right here in metropolitan Melbourne. It’s literally in the suburbs. I can’t reveal where it is, but I can give you a hint of what’s there. It’s a huge site where we’re finding the 5 million-year old fossils of gigantic sharks the size of a train carriage, ancient whales, sea birds that have fangs growing out of their beaks and wingspans as wide as a Toyota LandCruiser. We’re in the early stages, but it promises to be one of the most important urban fossil sites ever to be discovered in the world. ● ● museumsvictoria.com.au
As told to
M E G C R AW F O R D ●
Ph o t o
J U LIA N KI N G M A
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COVER STORY
M
elbourne is blessed with talented chefs, but cooking at home is vastly different to cooking in a restaurant. We rallied five experts to provide tips, bust myths and help you take your home cooking to the next level. PASTA
Andreas Papadakis HEAD CHEF AND CO-OWNER OF TIPO 00 & OSTERIA
Chef lessons
Culinary genius
A N D R E A S PA PA DA KI S
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KRISTOFFER PAULSEN
Melbourne’s best chefs share tips to take home cooking from ho-hum to oh-yum.
While Andreas Papadakis appreciates the tradition of pasta making, he’s not a purist and limits himself to 20-minute recipes when cooking for the family. “I never make fresh pasta at home because there are some traditionally bronze-extruded pastas that you can get in Australia that are just amazing. My favourite is called Gentile … it takes 17 minutes to cook and it’s only semolina and water, no eggs or flour.” Spaghetti al burro is his go-to dish: nothing more than pasta, butter, cooking water and cheese. “In the past flatmates or partners would be like, ‘What are you eating, spaghetti and cheese? That sounds horrible!’ and then they would taste it,” Papadakis says. At home, he suggests pimping spaghetti with a little garlic, chilli, anchovy, broccolini, panko bread crumbs and olive oil to impress. If making pasta from scratch, the secret is dry dough. “When you think your pasta dough is too dry, it’s probably not dry enough,” Papadakis says. “You have to keep working it. It will be a massive pain in the arse to put it in the pasta roller, but when it goes through a couple of times, it works perfectly.”
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S O F IA L E VI N
PASTRY
Kate Reid DIRECTOR AND FOUNDER OF
YO S U K E H ATA N A K A
SUSHI
JULIAN KINGMA
LUNE CROISSANTERIE
K AT E R E I D
BURGERS
PHO
Greg Pappas
Jerry Mai
CO-OWNER OF ANDREW’S
OWNER AND CHEF OF
RESTAURANT & BAR
HAMBURGERS
ANNAM & PHO NOM
The art of sushi runs in Yosuke Hatanaka’s DNA. Both his father and brother are sushi chefs, while he oversees all six Sake restaurants in the Rockpool Dining Group. But you don’t have to be a sushi master to make sushi. “It’s a very technical thing to master, but it’s an easy thing to get into,” he says. Quality fish is important and you’ll need wasabi, pickled ginger, rice vinegar seasoning and soy sauce. Japanese short grain rice makes a huge difference, while more expensive nori (seaweed) sheets are thicker and easier to work with. Use a rice cooker for an even finish, a sharp knife and bamboo sushi-rolling mat lined with cling film to avoid sticking. Prepare ahead but don’t use cold rice, which becomes hard instead of warm and fluffy. Fish should be body temperature to better taste the flavour, but the greatest sushi sin is to mix wasabi and soy. “You have to treat wasabi like mustard – take a little bit with your chopstick. No mixing and dunking, that’s just wrong,” Hatanaka says.
Andrew’s Hamburgers (below) turns 80 years old in November. Greg Pappas started working there under his uncle when he was 12, so he knows a thing or two about burgers. “It has to start with the basic, core ingredients, which are, of course, a great pattie and a great roll,” Pappas says. “Your pattie can’t be too lean because it will become too dry, but it can’t be too fatty because it will be too greasy, so you have to find the happy medium.” Get the butcher to specify the fat percentage. Around 15 per cent is the sweet spot. Cook it on a very hot plate, “but not too hot or the meat will burn”. As for buns, Pappas recommends using oldschool white hamburger buns.
Vietnamese people are surprised to find out Jerry Mai doesn’t use MSG in her pho. Others have admitted they prefer it to their mother’s. As for Mai, she judges pho on the broth’s depth of flavour. She says we have better produce than Vietnam, but if there’s one thing home cooks and professionals need aside from quality ingredients to make decent pho, it’s time. “A lot of broth is quick-finished with MSG. Instead of taking a long time using a large amount of bones, it’s cooked over a short time and the umami comes from MSG,” says Mai, whose restaurants cook their broth overnight on a low heat. Mai suggests using beef marrow bones and avoiding others with too much blood in them, like neck and back bones, which cloud the broth. Marrow bones from a western butcher are around $9 per kilogram, so visit an Asian butcher for pho bones at around $1.50 per kilogram. To keep stock clear, Mai blanches the bones to rid them of impurities, throwing out the water and starting the stock afresh.
JOSH ROBENSTONE
Yosuke Hatanaka BRAND CULINARY CHEF AT SAKE
Croissant queen Kate Reid doesn’t recommend making croissants at home. ”There’s a reason why everyone in Paris just goes to the boulangerie,” she says. “If you want to do it properly, you have to allocate three days on and off to make them.” For those who want to put in the time, it’s important to pick the right butter. Look for one that’s pale in colour without watery pockets, as water creates gaps in lamination. If you’d rather buy your croissant, look for those with a straight edge. In France, classic boulangers are allowed to shape their croissants in a straight line only when they’re made with pure butter. “I also look for a good golden colour,” Reid adds. “You see a lot of anaemic-looking croissants out there and that’s usually a sign they’ve been par-baked or frozen and finished off in the bakery.” In terms of input versus enjoyment, Reid thinks the best return on baking time is the humble scone. “Scones for me are the most underrated baked good … that gratification that you can get within one or two hours from setting out to eating, that’s something so special that baking gives us.” ●
J E R RY M AI ’ S PH O
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RICHMOND
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HIGHPOINT
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VILL AGE LIFE
A love letter to our bookstores Melbourne’s commitment to culture is keeping a tradition alive.
W
ELIANA SCHOULAL
hen I decided to open a bookshop, I rang my friend Bob Sessions – then publishing director at Penguin – to ask his advice. “Did you remember to take your pills this morning?” he said with a chuckle. When he realised I was serious, Bob urged caution, adding that bespoke indie bookstores were under threat by Amazon, Borders, Kindle and the like, and I should think carefully about this kind of hefty investment. It was May 2009, and over the next few weeks I talked to dozens of friendly advisors – booksellers included – about what to do. Most supported Bob’s premise that village bookstores were in for tough times. But the dream to create a family business that placed books at its heart just wouldn’t go away. A couple of years ago in an article for The Atlantic, award-winning American author Ann
“Figures tell us Melburnians consume more books, magazines and newspapers per capita than any other city in Australia.” Patchett recalled the heady days after she and her husband decided to invest in a bookshop in their local Nashville area. “When I look back on all this now, I’m dizzied by the blitheness that stood in place of any sort of business sense, like the grand gesture of walking over to the roulette table and betting it all on a single number,’’ Patchett wrote. Blitheness, crazy thinking, a dream to fulfil – whatever the nature of the fever, it also took hold of me. This month our little Hawksburn store celebrates its 10th birthday. In that time, Borders has closed, Kindle sales have plateaued, and more people tell us they are returning to book-as-object because they are concerned about the amount of time they spend each day on electronic devices. And although Amazon is still hanging around like a cocksure, wealthy old uncle at a family wedding, Melbourne’s independent bookstore culture remains intact. There have been plenty of hairy moments and night terrors in my life as a bookseller. While, sadly,
nine Melbourne bookshops have closed in the past two years, more than 170 continue to operate as community hubs for their book-loving customers. Am I naive to think our city’s fabulous book havens can weather the current financial storms and global retail disruptions? Possibly. But I am also a big believer in Melbourne’s commitment to culture. We love our galleries. We love a night at the theatre. We go to the ballet, we attend concerts, we book tickets to festivals ... and we read books. In 2008, Melbourne became the second official UNESCO City of Literature (there are now 28 Cities of Literature across six continents). As part of its bid, the Victorian Government was required to prove the city has a thriving literary culture. This wasn’t difficult. Australian Bureau of Statistics figures tell us Melburnians consume more books, magazines and newspapers per capita than any other city in Australia, we have the highest concentration of community book clubs in the country, and the State Library in Swanston Street
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(the oldest in Australia, founded in 1854) attracts more than 1.9 million visitors each year. We also have an extraordinary public asset in the Wheeler Centre, which offers Melburnians a chance to attend more than 180 (mostly free) literary and ideas-inspired events each year. Meanwhile, Melbourne’s bookshops each week play host to author talks, poetry readings, book clubs, story-time for pre-schoolers and writing classes. Places like Readings in Carlton, The Avenue Bookstore’s Albert Park headquarters, Bourke Street’s Hill of Content and Paperback Bookshop are cultural institutions and tourist magnets. And writers from around Australia and around the world love to include Melbourne on their publicity tours. They know our bookstores support with gusto the work they do and the art they create. Melbourne’s bookshop ecology is alive and well and operating in a suburb near you. It’s inclusive, it’s exciting, and it’s yours. Long may we celebrate together. ● Corrie Perkin is an award-winning journalist and former managing editor of The Age, and the owner of My Bookshop in Hawksburn. Corrie is also a Wheeler Centre Board member.
C O R R I E PE R KI N
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COMEDY
B
est known as the star and cocreator of cult favourite Black Books, Irish comedian Dylan Moran returns to Australia with a new stage show, Dr Cosmos, in which his cynical sense of humour and deadpan style continues to woo fans. “The world looks a whole lot more different now than when I started in comedy,” says Moran, who came to attention as a 24-year-old who won the Perrier Award at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 1996 – making him the youngest recipient in history. “But the world is crazier now than ever,” Moran says. “When you look at the USA back then, we had presidents like Ronald Reagan and George Bush senior, now
we’ve reached a new era of madness since that shift, and people want to talk about it and turn to comedy to check out what the world is thinking.” The 47-year-old, who is often described as the Oscar Wilde of comedy, says he still loves his day job. “I can’t imagine doing anything else and still love stand-up and engaging with an audience. It gives me a great thrill,” he says. Dr Cosmos (Hamer Hall at the Arts Centre Melbourne, November 3, 4 and 6) sees Moran navigate the tough political topics with his usual cynical spin. He muses on the meaning of life, leans on philosophical wonderment and attempts to explain life’s absurdities with his own grump-
Universal view
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ANDY HOLLINGWORTH
Comedian Dylan Moran’s sharp new show plays on the world’s ‘new era of madness’.
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JA N E R O C CA
“We live in an exceptionally adult time, and I think people want to understand how we can cope through it all.” inflected and loveable tone. “What I want to do with this show, more than anything, is have a good time and enjoy my time with the people who are there,” says Moran, who is in Australia for three months. “I am not on a campaign or crusade to convert people's way of thinking. It’s about seeing what we make of what's going on. “That said, we live in an exceptionally adult time, and I think people want to understand how we can cope through all of it. “It's about reaffirming what's important to us.” Moran lives in Edinburgh with his
Scottish script editor wife Elaine and their two children, now aged 17 and 21. “I don’t really remember who I was before children, but feel very lucky we have been able to have ours and they’re adults in their own right now,” he says. When Moran emerged as the badtempered second-hand bookshop owner Bernard Black in Black Books, fans loved him for his sardonic deadpan style. He smoked too much, loved red wine and well, didn't care much for the bookshelves being dusted. It ran for three series from 2000 to
2004 and starred comedian Bill Bailey and Tamsin Greig. “I am glad people enjoyed anything I have done, if I gave them a laugh, that’s great,” he says. “We worked hard to make Black Books a funny show. “We wanted to make ourselves laugh and had a great time making it with lots of love, hard work, late nights, cheap red wine, plenty of nail-biting and take away food. “It was stressful, but worth it in the end.” Moran is writing a new show for the BBC but keeping a tight lid on solid information.
“It’s very fast-paced, crazy and short – they’re 15 minutes long and furious," he says. When it comes to writing for his live shows, Moran says he finds inspiration in the everyday. “When somebody you love takes the piss out of you, it can be pivotal for getting new material started,” he says. “I also read a lot and don't turn to stand up comedians for laughs; I’ve had enough of those guys. "But seriously, it's about keeping yourself engaged with reading – that's what I love doing.” ● ● dylanmoran.com
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FEATURE HOUSE
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PRESTON \ 18 ROBESON STREET 4
2
2
What was happening a century ago? Billy Hughes was the prime minister of Australia, and national icons as diverse as Arthur Boyd, Qantas and the Princes Highway were all being born. It was an interesting time for Preston, too, with a tram connecting the suburb to the Melbourne CBD for the first time. Add 18 Robeson Street to the list of accomplishments. This classical family residence, built c1920, strives to have it all: combining that old-school elegance with a more modern touch. The stairs leading to the front entrance and covered verandah. The gas fireplaces. The Sydney bluegum floors. And the landscaped backyard, which is a delightful and lowmaintenance space in which to hang out. That’s where you’ll find pavers stepping through the established greenery, space for an outside table, and a large, undercover back deck that flows nicely into the renovated rear of the house. Inside: the open-plan family and meals room, leading into the kitchen. There’s plenty of glass allowing the light in from both the back deck and the side of the property. There’s lots of space here for a TV, too. And, if you want to give the teenagers of the house some room, you can find it thanks to the upstairs rumpus, complete with built-in bench seat. Further opportunities for communal living reveal themselves in the living room at the front, its period details including a fireplace and bay window overlooking the front garden. One of the house’s four bedrooms is across the hall from
FINAL WORD
this living room, with the other is upstairs alongside the rumpus room. There’s a bathroom on each floor, with the
“WEST PRESTON IS ONE OF THE INNER NORTH’S FAVOURITE LOCATIONS
upper floor also hosting a powder room, and you’ll find
WITH BEAUTIFUL STREETSCAPES AND PICTURESQUE PERIOD HOMES SUCH
storage options in the garage and shed out the back.
AS 18 ROBESON.” BEV ADAM – AGENT
As for the location: Gilbert Road and the number 11 tram are a couple of blocks over, and in the other direction you’ll find Merri Creek and the large W H Robinson Reserve. The local supermarket is not very far away, Bell Primary School is walkable distance and, so too, are the bars and cafes of this increasingly desirable inner suburb of Melbourne. ● ANDERS FURZE property@domainreview.com.au Agent: Jellis Craig, Bev Adam 0422 396 477 Price: $1.4 million-$1.45 million Auction: 11.30am, October 26
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BRUNSWICK \ 26 CHARLES STREET 3
1
2
Located off Glenlyon Road, this double-fronted Victorian property sits behind vibrant Sydney Road, with plenty of cafes, restaurants, shops and bars all within walking distance. Surrounded by leafy front and back gardens with dedicated veggie patches, the home has been extended and includes three bedrooms, including the main bedroom with built-in wardrobe, a dining room with fireplace, solid timber kitchen and a living room that flows through to the rear deck. There’s a period-style bathroom with clawfoot bath, ornate ceiling roses and lots of timber detailing running throughout. Close to Barkly Square, Jewell station, trams and schools. ● ARIANNA LUCENTE Agent: Nelson Alexander, Jonathan West 0418 315 490 Price: $1.2 million-$1.32 million Auction: 11am, October 26
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NORTHCOTE \ 3 EAST STREET 3
2
2
Back in the 1870s, the Fitzroy builder John May built Oak Lodge for his daughter. The house, extended by its current owner, is now on the market. This double-fronted residence is instantly defined by its stand-out bluestone facade: there’s no mistaking this house from the street. Entering from the verandah you’ll find three large bedrooms, the main bedroom coming with en suite and walk-in wardrobe. Walking further into the house reveals a bathroom and laundry, the meals area and kitchen, and then the living and dining rooms. There’s an outdoor entertaining deck, two driveways and a garage, and it’s on a small street overlooking Oldis Gardens. ● ANDERS FURZE Agent: Nelson Alexander, Annalise Newell 0402 937 607 Price: $2.55 million-$2.8 million Auction: 1.30pm, November 9
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21A Victoria Road Northcote  Â? Â? Â? Â?    Â
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Auction Sat 9 Nov 1.00 €‚‚ƒ „„„ €…†ƒ „„„  ‡ ƒ ˆ„ ‰ „„ ŠŠ „„ ŠŠ ˆ„ ‹ Œ „Ž†ƒ …„‚ …„„ � ‘Ž…Š „‰ˆˆ woodards.com.au
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REGISTERED NURSES
best service in town
ICU/PICU nurses wanted for home care in Thornbury Minimum of 2 years ICU/PICU experience. Must be Ventilation and Tracheostomy competent.
10am until late appointments welcome new ladies
71 Colebrook St. Brunswick
For more information contact Patrik on 041 094 2230 or email patrik@intensivecareathome.com
9386 0206 SWA818BE
12425846-SN36-19
Massage Therapists
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Massage Therapy
Relaxation. 305 Queensberry St, North Melbourne. 7 days. Telephone: 9077 7620.
Find it in the
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1216352-LB06-16
9703 1530
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PROPOSAL TO UPGRADE AN EXISTING MOBILE PHONE BASE STATION AT NORTH MELBOURNE
NEED
Site Address: 2-52 Gracie Street North Melbourne VIC 3051 Site Ref: 24136 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; North Melbourne West (Lost Dogs Home) RFNSA: www.rfnsa.com.au/3051015 1. The proposed installation will involve the following: Â&#x2021; 7KH UHPRYDO RI WKH H[LVWLQJ WXUUHW KHDGIUDPH Â&#x2021; 7KH LQVWDOODWLRQ RI D QHZ WULDQJXODU KHDGIUDPH RQ WRS RI WKH P PRQRSROH Â&#x2021; 7KH LQVWDOODWLRQ RI WKUHH QHZ SDQHO DQWHQQDV RQ WKH QHZ KHDGIUDPH Â&#x2021; 7KH UH ORFDWLRQ RI H[LVWLQJ DQWHQQDV RQWR WKH QHZ WULDQJXODU KHDGIUDPH Â&#x2021; 7KH UHSODFHPHQW DQG UHFRQĂ&#x20AC;JXUDWLRQ RI H[LVWLQJ DQWHQQDV IRU QHZ WHFKQRORJLHV Â&#x2021; 7KH UHFRQĂ&#x20AC;JXUDWLRQ RI H[LVWLQJ WHFKQRORJLHV DQG DGGLWLRQ RI QHZ WHFKQRORJLHV LQFOXGLQJ * * * Â&#x2021; 7KH UHSODFHPHQW DQG UHFRQĂ&#x20AC;JXUDWLRQ RI H[LVWLQJ Remote Radio Units (RRUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) and the installation of QHZ 5HPRWH 5DGLR 8QLWV 558¡V DQG Â&#x2021; 7KH LQVWDOODWLRQ RI DQFLOODU\ HTXLSPHQW 2. The proposed installation is deemed to be a /RZ LPSDFW )DFLOLW\ SXUVXDQW WR WKH Telecommunications (Low-impact Facilities) Determination 2018 (â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Determinationâ&#x20AC;?) based on the descriptions above. Consent from council is not UHTXLUHG LQ WKLV LQVWDQFH 3. Further information including an EME Report can be obtained from Kordia Solutions via the contacts below. 4. The proposed infrastructure will be in compliance with WKH $&0$ (05 UHJXODWRU\ DUUDQJHPHQWV 5. This consultation is undertaken in accordance with the UHTXLUHPHQWV RI 6HFWLRQ RI WKH 0RELOH 3KRQH %DVH 6WDWLRQ 'HSOR\PHQW &RGH & :H LQYLWH \RX to provide feedback about the proposal. Further information and/or comments should be directed to Kordia Solutions: (PDLO &RPPXQLW\ &RQVXOWDWLRQ#NRUGLD FRP DX 3KRQH Mail: Kordia Solutions, Unit 1D/400 Nudgee Rd, Hendra QLD 4011 Comments Close: 5pm Friday, 8th November 2019.
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Garage Sales
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Warm, friendly, attractive and mature lady. I visit you. 0438 665 032 SWA12319XE
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G6133636AA-dc2Jul
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AARON & JOHNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DEMOLITION & RUBBISH REMOVALS
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Painters/Decorators 12428298-SN41-19
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12411802-RC09-19
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