Domain Review Melbourne Times - April 07, 2021

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

APRIL 7-13, 2021

OUR 2020 LIFE LOCKDOWN CHRONICLED

TRAVEL

FOODIE DELIGHTS IN SPA COUNTRY

JOCK ZONFRILLO M A STER OF HIS OW N STORY

MELBOURNE TIMES

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NICOLE CLEARY

What does it mean to be a celebrity chef? Have a successful restaurant?

A TV show? A cookbook? All of the above? Well, not necessarily. In fact our cover star this week, MasterChef co-host and judge Jock Zonfrillo, has swapped a cookbook for an autobiography and swears he’ll never write one of the former, preferring to tell his story with words, rather than recipes. He tells us about the challenge of putting pen to paper to tell his, at times confronting, life story, shooting the newest season of the long-running cooking show, and his new-found love of Melbourne after moving here with his family. ●

MICHAEL WOODS

C o mp i l e d b y

H AI L E Y C O U L E S

The editor’s desk

COUNTRY CULTURE \ As part of the Australian Silo Art

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Trail – the world’s largest outdoor art gallery – artist

up delish Mexican-inspired fare with ceviche tostadas

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quenching frozen margaritas. ● repeatoffender.co

GOING PLACES Things to do & see in Melbourne

OUR COVER \ Jock Zonfrillo Photographed by Julian Kingma

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J U LIA N KI N G M A

Laying it all on the table COVER STORY MasterChef judge Jock Zonfrillo talks the new season of

the show, his move to Melbourne and his upcoming tell-all autobiography.

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elebrity chef Jock Zonfrillo swears he’ll never write a cookbook. While many of his chef mates have shared their culinary stories through recipes, Zonfrillo has opted to plate up his own degustation by way of a new autobiography.

“I have been asked so many times to write a cookbook. It just doesn’t appeal to me. It never has,” Zonfrillo says.

“What I do know is that I will never write one.

Many people think I am mad not to. I know just how much effort, time and people are needed behind the scenes for it. I just don’t think that format is for me. I prefer to tell people my story my way, and now I’m doing it.”

Zonfrillo is calling Melbourne home for now as he returns to the city for his second season judging MasterChef Australia.

In between filming the new season at the Royal Melbourne Showgrounds alongside co-hosts Melissa Leong and Andy Allen, he is writing the tell-all book – a personal deep-dive into what has made him.

Due for release this year, it covers all those personal highs and lows – career moves that changed his path forever – with plenty of detail about his now-closed Restaurant Orana in South Australia, where cooking with indigenous ingredients became an obsession that still carries through his not-for-profit organisation, The Orana Foundation.

“I don’t have anything to hide,” Zonfrillo says.

“I’ve been pretty open about my drug past [in his teens]; I made some bad choices in my life. But through this autobiography, a reader can ascertain for themselves how I got to be where I am and the reason I became a drug addict. I got some free kicks along the way and some struggles, too. What you see is what you get with me.”

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The 44-year-old says nothing feels more like a pressure test than reliving the past on paper.

“To write this book has been the hardest thing I have ever been asked to do. It’s been one-part cathartic, one-part emotional turmoil. Nothing quite shakes you up like bringing up the past,” says Zonfrillo, who lives in Carlton with his wife, Lauren, and their two children: Alfie, 3, and Isla, born last October.

“It’s hard to reflect on your life, but I think the time is right.”

The Scottish-born, classically French-trained chef began washing dishes at 13 and left school at 15 to chase his culinary dream. He rose through the ranks working for Michelin-starred chefs Marco Pierre White, at the Hyde Park London, and David Cavalier.

He moved to Australia in 1999 to work as the head chef at Restaurant 41 in Sydney, eventually moving to Adelaide to open Orana, and recently to Melbourne – which he says is certainly ticking all the boxes for his family.

The decision to be based here was all thanks to COVID-19, which made it difficult for him to keep travelling interstate (between Adelaide and Melbourne) while filming the TV cooking show with so much in flux around border closures.

“There is still a huge sense of uncertainty around filming this season,” he says.

“In previous years, the MasterChef hosts would go overseas for some shows, but now even interstate travel comes with a question mark. Shuffling a crew of 100 people when we do off-site filming means we can’t take that risk with that many people in quarantine should it come to that.”

Returning for his second season – which started filming in November last year – comes with plenty of excitement, though, for the chef who loves to cook at home.

“We’re all about showing you relatable people who happen to be the best humans and cooks,” Zonfrillo says. “We have some people who have had decade-long careers in other fields come to the show – landscape gardeners, doctors, lawyers – who gave that up to follow their food dream. It’s admirable, and only something like COVID-19 could have brought that.

“As a result of that, we see some of the best meals come from them. They are really focused on getting better and learning – that’s the biggest difference I see this year.”

Having lived through Melbourne’s lockdown last year makes him an honorary Melburnian, too.

“Melbourne has been extremely welcoming with open arms,” says Zonfrillo. “To see how Melburnians supported their local restaurants during lockdown was quite amazing. A lot of restaurants were saved because of that desire to order dine-in at home. I am sure the food scene will come back; it’s not a matter of if; it’s simply about when.”

And when it comes to dining out, you’ll find Zonfrillo exploring Lygon Street, the CBD and Gertrude Street – with Marion Wine Bar and Cutler and Co a couple of his favourites.

At home, he always has a lump of pecorino in the fridge and a black pepper mill at the ready when whipping up his signature cacio e pepe pasta dish for the family.

“The kitchen is quite cathartic for me. I still really enjoy it,” he says.

The father of four (with two older children from a previous relationship) won’t rule out opening a restaurant in Melbourne either.

“What’s next? I don’t know the answer today, but there is not a day goes by [when] I don’t cook. I love telling stories through food.

“Will I open in Melbourne or Sydney, will there be an Orana 2.0? Anything is potentially on the table. Never rule it out.” ● MASTERCHEF \ Starts April on Channel Ten ● 10play.com.au

“Nothing quite shakes you up like bringing up the past.”

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Life is Co-Ed and so are we from 2023

St Aloysius College, North Melbourne, one of the best performing inner-city Catholic schools is getting even better for families, we’re now accepting boys and girls from 2023.

Book an information session today.

www.aloysius.vic.edu.au

St Aloysius College 31 Curran Street, North Melbourne 3051 03 9325 9200 enquiry@aloysius.vic.edu.au Subject to VRQA approval

BOOKS A new book chronicles how we rose to the coronavirus challenge.

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hile some people baked sourdough, made pottery or planted veggies, neighbours Jude van Daalen and Belinda Jackson produced a book during Melbourne’s long lockdown.

Together Apart: Life in Lockdown is a beautiful snapshot of how people reacted in those crazy times last year when the world changed forever. The blackand-white coffee-table book chronicles how ordinary Melburnians coped extraordinarily.

As well as publishing the book, the pair and their families have become close friends. In fact, there’s now a stepladder on either side of their back fence so children – and parents – can hop over any time.

“We worked surprisingly well together because we barely knew each other before we started,” van Daalen says.

When the first lockdown was announced, portrait photographer van Daalen had to close her studio.

Then she heard about some children who had taken out 72 books from the library. Next, a friend of hers opened an online yoga studio in her garage.

“I realised people were doing strange things and I needed to capture this,” she says.

Van Daalen collected stories and took photos from a distance. After a chat over the back fence, Jackson – a travel journalist who couldn’t travel – offered to edit the words. Finally, the pair decided to turn the project into a heart-warming book that contains 60 portraits of people in their neighbourhood, ranging from families separated by border closures to children rediscovering the magic of rainbows to health workers under stress.

“We had no idea it was going to be such an allconsuming job – we really put our lives on hold to get it done,” Jackson says.

The pair got to know their local community in the western suburbs. With the launch, the publicity and their book in shop windows, they are now recognised regularly.

The personal stories in the book are moving. One subject, Maryanne, talks about the emotional fallout

Jude van Daalen and Belinda Jackson tell their neighbourhood’s story through 60 portraits.

Lockdown lens

of these stories, leaving my children here

But the experience took a toll on the authors too.

A single parent, van Daalen’s children have lost their enthusiasm for school.

“I felt guilty because I was photographing all of these stories, leaving my children here while others were all at home baking cookies,” she says. “I thought, ‘Oh my god, I’m a bad mum.’”

Jackson had to deal with the loss of her work, her doctor husband’s stressful workload and her daughter’s loneliness. But she was amazed by the ways people coped, how neighbours supported each other and the pioneering efforts of her local IGA to introduce special shopping times for the elderly.

“When I moved here from the Netherlands, something big for me was that people are very community minded,” van Daalen says. “It got even stronger during lockdown and people were really looking after each other.” ●

while others were all at home baking cookies.”

TOGETHER APART: LIFE IN LOCKDOWN \

from the restrictions, her children not being able to visit friends and the five-kilometre limit.

“It’s the ‘corona coaster’! One day, you’re feeling really good, the next day, you’re clinging to a bottle of wine and rocking in the corner.”

Another, Sarah, explains how her kids miss friends, school and exploring places. “The only adventures my kids can go on are those in the pages of the many, many books they read, including these 72 books.”

Despite a lack of family support, Grace gives birth to her fourth child. “I ended up having a beautiful water birth, bringing a strong new boy into the world amidst this pandemic,” she says.

“I felt guilty because I was photographing all

By Jude van Daalen and Belinda Jackson, $79 JUDE VAN DAALEN

● lockdownstories.com.au

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TRAVEL \ DAYLESFORD More than just spas and springs, Daylesford is a foodie’s delight.

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Spa country sweets S W E E T R E T R E AT

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JA N E R O C CA

elburnians love a weekend escape, and Daylesford – about an hour and a half north-west of the city – has long been that destination for many of us when it comes to spa and mineral spring getaways. But it's also the region that keeps on giving; proof that unwinding here can be as eclectic or luxurious as you wish.

If the idea of stepping back in time appeals, then a retro fix at Sweet Retreat in Daylesford is sure to hit the sweet spot. This kitsch home accommodates up to eight guests and comes with four themed bedrooms: Peaches, Rainbow, Sweet Love and Tea & Biscuits. It's the ultimate sugar high without the calories and will keep the youngest of house guests ever intrigued, thanks to its playful palette of pastel colours and the scratch-and-sniff cherry wallpaper.

There are giant Iced VoVos on the walls and a large, sculptural ice-cream installation in the kitchen. This

RICHARD CORNISH

Stay

Eat

Drink

Do

Sweet Retreat is a modern take

Run by a husband-and-wife team

Winespeake Cellar + Deli is your

Daylesford Brewing Co. – where a

on retro living, where Australia’s

who wear their passion for Japanese

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taproom and bar brings the best of

favourite snacks inform the colour

cuisine elegantly, Kadota is all about

wine. There are baked treats, fresh

pale ales and more – opens in time

palette. This four-bedroom delight is

seasonal and local produce, with

baguettes, cheese towers and

for the Easter holidays. A chance to

suitable for families and couples.

slow dining at the heart.

coffee, too.

enjoy the fresh air or cosy up inside.

● airbnb.com.au

● kadotarestaurant.com.au

● winespeake.com.au

● daylesfordbrewingco.com.au

is a bright way to do Daylesford, where you don't take yourself too seriously, and its decor is sure to bring out the childlike wonder in you.

The accommodation concept is thanks to the folks behind the Sugar Republic giant candy museum.

Each of the rooms is inspired by classic Australian snacks, the two bathrooms are neon-lit, and there is a gorgeous garden for extra R&R and space.

There's no shortage of places to dine in Daylesford, but the modern Japanese restaurant Kadota is definitely a must. It is run by the owners, Daylesford local Aaron Schembri (formerly of the Press Club and Hajime Yoneda, a Michelin threestar restaurant in Osaka) and his Japanese-born wife, Risa Kadota, who met while working in Japan and fuse their love of slow dining with a focus on

seasonal and local ingredients. From sashimi to wagyu, oysters, pork belly dumplings and scallop ceviche, many of the herbs and vegetables that make the dishes are grown in their garden.

There's a seven-course set menu that takes out all the guesswork. The emphasis is on the deep-rooted Japanese philosophy of omotenashi – honest service and honest food. ●

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DAYLESFORD Luxx @ 43 Jamieson Street LUXURY ARCHITECTURAL RESIDENCES BY BEN ROBERTSON AT TECTURE DESIGN REGIONAL LIVING AT IT'S BEST.

FOR SALE

A limited number of elevated residences offering sweeping views, open plan living/dining, kitchens with pantry, Euro appliances, stone benchtops throughout, study overlooking landscaped gardens.

Centrally located to Bistro Terroir, Convent Gallery and popular Vincent Street retail precinct. Note: Stage one sold out, enquire now to secure your dream investment.

GUIDE Lot 5 $1,249,800 Lot 14 $1,334,800 Lot 15 $925,000

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2v

Annette Leary 0407 917 054 Will Walton 0412 511 717 Christine Lewis 0431 853 727

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RICHMOND \ 2/76 REGENT STREET 3

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Tucked away in a one-way backstreet lined with warehouses lies this brand new beauty. Mark Richards Architects have given this townhouse close to the CBD, MCG and transport all the contemporary touches, combining polished concrete and stainless steel with spotted gum floors to create a low-maintenance inner-city oasis. Living is spread over two levels, each accessed by a private lift from the secure garage below, and all three bedrooms have a balcony. The kitchen, equipped with induction cooktop and concealed rangehood, pyrolytic oven, integrated white goods and a pair of underbench wine fridges, flows into open dining and living, which expands further onto a private terrace. Other additions, like the glass wine room, add to the luxury. ● JOANNE BROOKFIELD

Agent: RT Edgar Toorak, Justine Harris 0407 332 618 Price: $1.45 million-$1.55 million Auction: 10.30am, April 10

MELBOURNE \ 312/250 ST KILDA ROAD

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The vast covered terrace and large living areas of apartment 312 in the iconic Melburnian building look across treetops to the Domain gardens, The Tan and the city. This is fine cityedge living at a tightly held address. Floor-to-ceiling glazing draws in light and sunshine, and stacker doors create the ideal indoor-outdoor lifestyle. High-quality materials and premium fittings combine to create a timeless interior. In the timber kitchen are Miele appliances, integrated refrigeration, and stone and stainless steel benches. The en suite to the luxurious main bedroom has an oval bath and twin basins.

A concierge is on hand 24 hours a day and shared facilities include a heated indoor pool, spa, sauna, steam room, gym and business centre. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON

Agent: Marshall White, Ben Manolitsas 0400 201 626 Price: $2.6 million-$2.7 million

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1-3/1 Moonee Street Ascot Vale This retreat is impressive with its long list of features including European Oak floors, seamless stone kitchen with Miele appliances and a Fisher & Paykel integrated fridge/freezer, high ceilings, sun-drenched alfresco courtyard and basement double garage. Ideally located for lifestyle, moments to cafes, supermarkets, Ascot Vale train station, Flemington Racecourse, Moonee Valley Racecourse and the Melbourne Showgrounds, zoned for Ascot Vale Primary School and Mount Alexander College.

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For Sale Rob Elsom Dylan Francis Fitzroy

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0411 889 660 0421 023 832 8415 6100

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kayburton.com.au 12

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kayburton.com.au

23 Darling Street South Yarra 24

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www.williamsbatters.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

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GREG HOCKING HOLDSWORTH

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16 Dinsdale Street, Albert Park This stunning townhouse, beautifully constructed by multi-award-winning builder Hansen Living, features ultramodern style in a clever floor plan, with an attractive mix of timber, stone and steel. Indulgent living and entertaining spaces. Stylish landscaped courtyard.

Bespoke kitchen with European Dolomite benchtops, Miele appliances, integrated fridge/freezer. Beautiful master suite, two more bedrooms and an inviting family bathroom. Zoned climate control, ground floor powder room, secure parking. Albert Park College zone.

Albert Park 8644 5500 14

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2.5

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Contact Agent Sat 17th Apr at 11am See website for details Warwick Gardiner 0438 308 555 Greg Hocking 0418 329 961 Jansen Spencer 0408 502 555

Price Auction Inspect Contact

Contact Agent Sat 10th Apr at 1.30pm See website for details Warwick Gardiner 0438 308 555 Greg Hocking 0418 329 961 Jansen Spencer 0408 502 555

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8 Draper Street, Albert Park This brand-new ultramodern home in a sought-after, leafy-green Albert Park pocket features an intelligent contemporary layout, luxe fittings and finishes, and ample space for daily living and lavish entertaining. Expansive open-plan living and dining with triple balconies, stone-topped kitchen with butler’s pantry. Indulgent master suite with courtyard and plunge pool, second main suite with rooftop terrace, third bedroom and a family bathroom. Large cellar/tasting room, climate control, double remote garage.

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Price Auction Inspect Contact

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3.5

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