Domain Review Melbourne Times - June 30, 2021

PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE

FOOD

KNEADING IT LOCALLY

EATING OUT A DELICIOUS SECRET

REBECCA MADDERN A TA LE OF T WO CITIES

MELBOURNE TIMES

JUNE 30 - JULY 6, 2021

RESIDENTIAL PRIVATE DINING Artist’s impression

WITH 140 STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE, YOU’LL FEEL RIGHT AT HOME. A Seafarers lifestyle extends far beyond the luxuries of your grand-scale home.

As Melbourne’s first international hotel-branded residences, it also places a dedicated team of 140 staff at your service, and gives you access to all the guest amenities of Australia’s first 1 Hotel, including: – – – – – – –

Artist’s impression

2 AND 3-BEDROOM RESIDENCES PARK/CITY VIEW from $1,215,000 RIVERFRONT from $1,900,000 ON-SITE DISPLAY SUITE NOW OPEN CALL 1300 308 295 FOR PRIVATE VIEWINGS

For more information SEAFARERS-RESIDENCES.COM.AU/DISCOVER

Private dining rooms with chef catered dinners Housekeeping and personal shopping In-home room service and wellness treatments 24-hour concierge and valet parking Business services and meeting rooms Botanical care and maintenance services Pet care and walking.

Situated on the last piece of Melbourne’s original waterfront, a Seafarers residence promises a truly life changing experience—but one that will have you feeling right at home, in no time at all.

C o mp i l e d b y

HAILEY COULES

The editor’s desk

MICHEAL KELLY

One of the things I’ve enjoyed most about the gradual reopening of the state and the country has been getting back to the airport. Strange, I know, but I love flying and getting to a new place. The excitement of being at the airport and counting down until I land (even just locally) still remains. Someone whose airport attendance would far surpass mine is this week’s cover star, Weekend Today’s Rebecca Maddern. As she tells Effie Mann in our story, she can sometimes do four domestic flights in a weekend between her Today show gig and seeing her beloved Cats play. Talk about commitment. ●

GARDEN PARTY \ The Smith on High Street in Prahran

HOME STRETCH \ Reformer pilates studio Love

has a huge list of events on offer, from a bottomless

Athletica has recently launched an At Home With Love

Supper Club to Dessert for Dinner and Bistro Morgan

service for those looking to get a workout without

Dessert Takeover. ● thesmithprahran.com.au

leaving the house. ● loveathletica.com.au

GOING PLACES Things to do & see in Melbourne

OUR COVER \ Channel Nine presenter Rebecca Maddern, photographed by Julian Kingma

MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Jemimah Clegg Editorial producer \ Hailey Coules Group picture editor \ Vashti Newcomb Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Graphic designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial director \ Adrian Lowe National managing editor \ Alice Stolz Group director, Consumer \ Jason Chuck

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REVIEW Domain Review is published by Domain Holdings Australia Limited and is printed by Elephant Group (Aust) Pty Ltd, 24c Victoria Street Windsor VIC 3181. All material is copyright.

ROB PALMER

Real estate sales director \

PARKER BLAIN

Jason Pellegrino

MELBOURNE TIMES

Chief executive officer Domain Group \

TODAY’S CATCH \ The Fishmonger’s Son in Carlton

SHARP MINDS \ On August 2, legendary chef

North now has fish sandwiches available for takeaway

Josh Niland is hosting the Take One Fish Butchery

and in-house sashimi, only on Thursdays and Fridays.

Masterclass at Hamer Hall, joined by MasterChef alum

● www.thefishmongersson.com

Alice Zaslavsky. ● artscentremelbourne.com.au

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EOFY SALE NOW ON! Save up to $1,000

FOOD organic and biodynamic local flour, keeping white flour for pastries (yes, his pain au chocolat is hard to resist).

THE FLOUR HOUSE

BEN SWINNERTON

To Be Frank, 1/4 Bedford St, Collingwood

● tobefrankbakery.com.au BAKER BLEU \ THE BREAD MOTHERSHIP

pastries must get a mention, too.

“I’m trying to keep the bread as natural as I can,” Malone says.

“I’ve got a grain-to-table approach, and I do everything by hand.”

Ever so slightly obsessed with bread, he opened the Flour House in 2019. The pandemic put the business on the map locally, he says.

The Flour House 3 Graham Rd, Highett

On the rise Wo r d s

M A RY O ’ B R I E N

T O B E F R A N K BA K E RY

Melburnians are lining up for top-notch bread at local artisan bakeries that champion a fresh approach.

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hile the smell of fresh bread sliding out of the oven is both comforting and evocative, the process of creating it takes skill and perseverance.

Baking bread is a serious business, and it’s no surprise bakers are often evangelical about their methods.

As many of us discovered during last year’s lockdowns, kneading, mixing and getting dough to rise is no easy task.

While we experimented at home, our respect increased for the people who run the artisan bakeries in our neighbourhoods. Here are three exciting bakeries that emerged as local heroes.

THE FLOUR HOUSE \ WATCH THE ACTION

Hiding in the back streets of Highett is this gem of a bakery, possibly the only one in Melbourne that mills its own flour.

Owner Damian Malone is passionate about local ingredients and sources grains from Victorian farms, including Sharkey’s, near Bacchus Marsh.

He and his team bake seven to 10 different breads daily. The weekly list includes a house-milled biodynamic spelt sourdough, a sprouted wheat and sunflower, and a sourdough made with Two Brothers apple cider.

Of course, his mouth-watering

● theflourhouse.com.au TO BE FRANK \ ALL ABOUT RESPECT

When Franco Villalva opened To Be Frank bakery in a Collingwood back street, he was initially overwhelmed by the challenge.

Using his second language in a new country, the Argentinian-born baker relied on word of mouth to draw in his customers.

But it didn’t take long for locals to discover his long-fermentation, naturally leavened breads made from organic or sustainable ingredients.

Not only is the bread full of flavour, but it’s easier to digest, too, he says.

A former pastry chef, Villalva is a passionate supporter of the ‘respectus panis’ (respect bread) movement, popular in France, where bread is made using a tiny amount of yeast, less salt, quality flours and long fermentation at room temperature.

Villalva explains the 18-hour process breaks down the gluten and makes bread that is easy to digest.

“The respectus panis bread is healthier than sourdough,” he says.

“It’s a very soft bread; it’s not chewy.”

The bakery produces 12-15 different breads each day, some using the respectus panis method and some sourdough. He mostly uses

From a hole-in-the-wall shop in Elsternwick, Baker Bleu won over the locals with its distinctive dark-crusted, caramel-tinged sourdough loaves.

“People walking past could smell bread baking, and we built a business off that,” says Mike Russell, who opened the bakery with his wife Mia in 2016.

Word spread about the amazing taste, and soon, top restaurants such as Attica, Cutler & Co and Di Stasio were queuing up, too.

Last year, just before the pandemic started, Baker Bleu moved to larger premises in Caulfield North with a new oven and lots of space for their bread’s 48-hour fermentation process using wild yeast.

Russell says: “We wanted to retain the magic of baking bread on site.”

Originally from Sydney, Russell learnt his trade at top places such as Baker D Chirico, Bourke Street Bakery and Iggy’s (Sydney).

Baking bread here is a three-day process, and ancient grains such as spelt, Khorasan wheat and buckwheat are sometimes used.

Always keen to share tips, Russell recently did a live-streamed Instagram cooking class with chef Shane Delia of Providoor.

Baker Bleu 119-121 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield North

● bakerbleu.com.au

BA K E R B L E U

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COVER STORY Rebecca Maddern spends a lot of time filming

in Sydney, but she remains staunchly Victorian at heart.

Where else but Melbourne?

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Rebecca Maddern at her holiday home on the Surf Coast.

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ebecca Maddern should probably live in Sydney. The TV journalist flies to the harbour city every Friday for her co-hosting role alongside Richard Wilkins on Channel Nine’s Weekend Today, and recently wrapped up filming for Australian Ninja Warrior up there too. Still, for the TV veteran and hardcore AFL fan, it’s a move she’s always resisted.

“To be honest, I’ve probably shot myself in the foot on a few occasions in years gone by, by not moving to Sydney,” she says with a loud laugh.

“Throughout my career, there’s always been an opening there and at times I have considered it, but Melbourne has always had my heart.”

Growing up in Geelong, Maddern moved to Melbourne at 18 and has called it home ever since. That, she says, proved a godsend during a “difficult” 2020.

“I think it’s really important to have a Melbourne representative in one of the biggest TV markets, and that was particularly evident through last year in and out of lockdowns,” the 43-yearold says. “I think that gave [Weekend Today] a huge advantage.

“The majority of people on air in similar roles are based in Sydney … I felt I had a real responsibility to broadcast to Australia what Melburnians were feeling.”

Being home all the time was a struggle for the usually frantically paced Maddern, who works away from home for three weeks straight when Australian Ninja Warrior is filming. The show, modelled on a Japanese format, involves competitors navigating a high-stakes obstacle course, and often sees Maddern filming with co-hosts Shane Crawford, Ben Fordham and Nick Kyrgios through the night.

Earlier this year, she was tied up for weeks anchoring Nine’s coverage of the Australian Open tennis.

“It’s a sacrifice but I have always loved work and I couldn’t imagine not working,” she says of the work-life STYLING \ Kate Hastilow

EFFIE MANN ●

Ph o t o

J U LIA N KI N G M A

juggle. “I just put my head down and get on with the job, and look forward to getting home.”

Home mattered more than ever in 2020 for Maddern, as it did for most Melburnians coming to grips with the COVID-19 restrictions: she threw herself into expanding her cooking repertoire – and her waistline, she quips.

Maddern also began to run. With a limited social life and access to extended family curtailed, inaccessible childcare and – ugh! – no playgrounds, 2020 instilled in her an appreciation for life’s “little joys”.

“I’m certainly not going to forget the lessons of 2020,” she says. “I have a new appreciation for all the little things in life that bring me joy, and I want to really savour that.”

Speaking from her holiday house near Aireys Inlet – where she spends her downtime with husband Trent Miller and their three-year-old daughter Ruby, and where Maddern feels most at home – she says one such joy is family time at the beach.

Having spent the holidays of her youth further down the coast at Lorne, Maddern says she is enjoying reliving the same experiences with her daughter. With a national park stretching behind and 180-degree ocean views out the front, the house is the kind of retreat that allows her to “just take it easy and breathe”.

“People often say, ‘Don’t you get bored?’ and I say, ‘No, quite the opposite; there’s always something to do,’” she says of the getaway’s natural surrounds. “Ruby thinks having kangaroos in your backyard is quite the norm, which is lovely.”

Maddern likes to run along the local bush tracks, while Miller can be found out in one of the coastline’s many famous surf breaks, perhaps even catching a wave with Geelong Cats football star and coastal near-neighbour and friend Patrick Dangerfield.

In winter, the big open fire is roaring, and the footy is always on,

and this is when Rebecca Maddern says she is at her happiest.

“My number one thing that I love to do is AFL footy,” she says, recalling how she and her sportsobsessed girlfriends would play netball at Geelong’s Kardinia Park on Saturday mornings, go home to shower, then return to watch the footy match.

A love of AFL runs in the family: her great-grandfather, Harry “Nipper” Marsham, captained Geelong more than a century ago and her stepdad served on the board.

Maddern, herself, has been the Cats’ No. 1 ticket holder for a decade.

It’s a role the diehard fan takes extremely seriously, and she has vowed never to reveal her favourite player or, rather, players.

When pushed, however, Maddern says if she had to iron a number onto Ruby’s little guernsey, it would be hard to go past “Danger’s” 35.

Working every weekend, however, isn’t particularly conducive to following the great Aussie game, Maddern concedes, and she is a fan of Thursday night football.

For big games, she will f ly back to Melbourne after hosting Saturday’s Weekend Today, then back to Sydney for her 4am wake-up call for Sunday’s show. “Yep, I’m that crazy!”

We wrap up our call. Maddern is out of time and airport-bound – again. While she’s away, renovations on the family’s Victorian terrace house in Melbourne, which began in March, will continue.

“We plan on being there for the next 20 years as we love the location so much,” she says.

Further proof, if it was needed, that Rebecca Maddern doesn’t intend heading north any time soon. ● AUSTRALIAN NINJA WARRIOR \ Sunday 7pm, Monday and Tuesday 7.30pm, Nine WEEKEND TODAY \ Saturday and Sunday 7am, Nine

HAIR & MAKEUP \ Leah Briody

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OUT FOR DINNER

Seoul food in an intimate setting

I

n a cruel twist of fate, this review is being published after CHAE’s July and August bookings went online. It will be spring before you get the chance to dine at Jung Eun Chae’s six-seat Korean restaurant run from her Brunswick apartment, but put September 1 in your diary. Now. It’s open Tuesday and Wednesday for lunch ($59 per person) and for dinner Friday and Saturday ($69 per person). Considering Chae spends the rest of the week fermenting produce, air-drying corn and making soybean paste from scratch, it’s a steal – if you can land a seat.

Chae escorts us down the hall to a lift. Residents in gym gear chat loudly while she stands professionally in the corner, apron on and ready for service. In her apartment, three

Wo r d s CHAE

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S O F IA L E VI N

island benches are each set for two.

All stovetop burners are alight, and the oven warms local and Korean ceramics. Chae’s shelves are stacked with vinegars, ferments and scobies that look like fluidpreserved specimens. She isn’t licensed but pours thumbs of homemade makgeolli – milky, sparkling rice wine.

PU M PKI N SA L A D

Bugak, deep-fried vegetable crisps, are arranged on a plate that looks like a river stone. They’re accompanied by walnut and fig, sticky with fermented rice syrup.

Chae doesn’t use refined sugar, which makes the sweetness of the pumpkin porridge with glutinous rice balls that follows all the more impressive.

Barramundi is marinated in yihwaju (Korean rice wine) salt and served in clear mussel broth amped with wasabi. Chopped eye fillet tartare is flavoured with homemade soy and sesame.

Purple-tinged rice concealed by edamame is served along with beef rib broth and banchan (side dishes).

We wrap the rice in kelp sheets with gochujang (fermented chilli paste) and marvel at the sesame character of pickled perilla leaves. For dessert,

What’s nearby?

Another one-woman show, Tofu Shoten is a tiny shop inside Kines cafe in Brunswick R I C E WIT H L O T U S R O O T

where Sava Goten makes tofu and soybean products.

There’s soy milk, miso

Chae shaves ice for patbingsu and covers it with sweetened red beans, rice balls, roasted soybean powder and milk jam.

When she finds a house further north, Chae won’t ever serve more than six diners, but she hopes to run kimchi classes with the same vibrancy as passata-making Italian families. ●

made from leftover tofu pulp, a nutty spread containing vegan butter, kinako (roasted soybean powder), organic maple syrup, and more.

● tofushoten.com

● Chae ● 288 Albert St, Brunswick ● chae.com.au

Ladies Boutique Selected stock Reduced to clear

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Shop 14 Dennison Mall, Bundoora Square Bundoora 3083 | Ph 9467 5903 DOM A IN REV IEW

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MIDDLE PARK \ 196 RICHARDSON STREET 2

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This semi-detached house is renovated, so you can move in without having to lift a finger. The facade is true to its Victorian origins in tuck-pointed brick with lacework over the bullnose verandah. Off the entrance hall, the first bedroom addresses the street through twin windows, and the second has a door to the side courtyard. Next up, the roomy bathroom has a bath and a walk-in shower.

Enhanced by a skylight, the kitchen-dining-living hub completes the footprint in a crisp, modernised manner.

Glass doors here retract to a terrace with covered and open-air areas, so you’re set to ignite the inbuilt barbecue in any weather. Close to schools, the South Melbourne Market and the beach, the position will suit people who like to keep it local. ● KAY KEIGHERY

Agent: The Agency, Michael Paproth 0488 300 800 Price: $1.7 million-$1.85 million Auction: 1.30pm, July 17

HIGHETT \ 202 HIGHETT ROAD 4

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2

Modern and minimalist in terms of maintenance, this house provides bright and breezy family accommodation.

Both the front and rear yards require negligible upkeep, with decked and terraced surfaces making the rear one ideal for socialising al fresco. On ground level, a lounge room complements the kitchen-meals-family hub, and the bedroom might be used as a study. On the first floor, a retreat separates two minor bedrooms from the main bedroom, the latter with sitting area and en suite. White walls and pale timber floors make the hub light and bright.

Quality appliances, solar panels and solar hot water figure among the inclusions. With buses passing the door and shops, cafes, restaurants, schools and trains nearby, the location suggests putting down roots for the long-term. ● KAY KEIGHERY

Agent: Belle Property, Stephen Tickell 0418 177 565 Price: $1.29 million-$1.39 million

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Auction: 1.30pm, July 3 DOM A IN REV IEW

kayburton.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW

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1 Como Avenue South Yarra The height of luxury, this grandly proportioned five bedroom family home is immaculately presented in lush garden surrounds and steeped in a rich history. Featuring soaring detailed ceilings and leafy vistas throughout, open plan living and dining is complemented by a separate kitchen equipped with marble benchtops and quality appliances. Versatile layout with multiple living zones, while established gardens invite alfresco dining. Also includes laundry, garage and ducted heating.

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Expressions of Interest Closing Tuesday 6th July at 3pm Inspect Thursday 12-12.30pm & Saturday 11-11.30am Land 842 sqm approx.

Lily Keating 0409 160 022 Nathan Waterson 0439 905 188 Andrew Macmillan 0418 142 252 Armadale 9864 5000

a 2b 3c 1e

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Luxury Living at West End Penthouse Collection / 112 Adderley Street, West Melbourne

Artist impression

This striking penthouse collection with panoramic views redefine luxury living in Melbourne’s exciting West End. With the opportunity to create your dream property from the current shell, or utilize the existing custom designed plans.

3 & 4 bedroom options range from 127-397m2 approx. of internal living. With exquisite detail including marble, timber and brass finishes, balcony, state-of-the art marble/Gaggenau kitchen, built-in bar, laundry, ample parking, residents’ pool, spa and garden. adderley-penthouses.com

Expressions of Interest

View

By Private Appointment

Contact

Contact

Marcus Heron 0422 822 995 Prestige Homes of Victoria

Michael Paproth 0488 300 800 The Agency

prestigehomes.com.au

theagency.com.au

Sassafras "Chateau Jardin Parfume" | A palace in the sky

Indulging the senses high above the city lights of Melbourne, no expense or effort has been spared in the creation of this simply unrepeatable French inspired chateau.

Set on approximately 2,400sqm, framed by its European façade and immersed within an exquisite established landscaped garden sanctuary, this immensely private residence is one of the �inest homes ever to be offered for sale in the Dandenong Ranges only 30 minutes drive from the south east suburbs of Melbourne. Buoyed by a privileged elevated position, the imposing timeless architecture is at home within its lavish perfumed gardens �illed with roses, camelias, gardenias, tulips, freesias, hyacinth, jasmine, Mexican orange blossoms, over 50 custom made pots and several statues including 4 Seasons, Dali Alice in Wonderland and Dali the Surrealist Piano.

Recently transformed and extensively rebuilt throughout, lavish proportions include soaring ceilings to all levels, Italian porcelain �looring, imported staircases, divine wood paneling from

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French and Belgium Chateaus, thick marble surfaces and the latest high-end appliances. The extensive layout features two extravagant master suites complete with sumptuous ensuites, decadent living & dining rooms, a top �loor gold class theatre room for eight and, adding a further aristocratic feel, an inspired cigar room by Roberto Cavalli.

Designed for entertaining kings & queens, Chateau Jardin Parfume is the ultimate destination. The exquisite outdoor areas can be enjoyed in solace or entertaining in grand style; taking full advantage of the mountain landscape and abundance of wildlife, offering poolside lounging in the summer, misty winter nights by the large Cheminees Philippe open �ire place, or treating friends to a fully catered celebration making use of the commercial cooking and outdoor refrigeration facilities.

45 Mount Eliza Way, Mount Eliza 3930 | LOCAL EXPERTS | GLOBAL DOMINANCE AGENTS: Rob Curtain 0418 310 870 | Marco Santos 0426 046 937

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