Explorer AugSept2015

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

AFRIC A

WHERE THE BIG

C AT S R O A M

MALDIVES

HON G KO NG

NEW BEGINNINGS IN OLD HAUNTS

HAPPINESS HAS A NEW HAVEN

THE SANCHAYA

THE PLACE BETWEEN WORLDS

p u b l i s h e r ’s l e t t e r

W

elcome to another issue of Explorer Magazine,

the

eco-friendly

travel magazine dedicated to true world wanderers. It’s been a busy couple of months for the whole team; we jetted across to eastern

Africa to delve into the wild beauty of Tanzania in search of the big cats of the Serengeti, found luxury that’s ideal for travelling families in Phuket, Thailand’s most popular holiday island, and explore Hong Kong’s eclectic neighbourhood of Sheung Wan, a precinct that happily has one foot in the past and one in the future. We also have time to check out The Sanchaya, a beautiful new hideaway on the island of Bintan, an hour’s ferry ride from Singapore, and check out one of the most innovative new kids clubs to ever grace the islands of the Maldives.

Also in this issue we have the latest travel news for families looking to jet away this season, as well as our regular World in Pics section to get the creative juices flowing before that next big trip. Where ever you’re headed and whatever you might encounter there, we hope Explorer will be your digital companion.

Safe travels.

David Leung Publisher

World in Pics

Diving with a humpback whale and her new born calf while they cruise around Roca Partida Island, in Revillagigedo, Mexico.

Credit: National Geographic Traveller

Roughing it in China.

Credit: The Dragon Trip

THROUGH THE Humpack whale encounters at Australia’s Hervey Bay Credit: Hervey Bay Tourism

LENS

The majesty of the Eastern & Oriental Express.

Credit: Belmond

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World in Pics

The Grand Canyon remains popular on traveller’s bucket lists.

Credit: Insight Tours

S

This issue we traverse the natural world, from the idyllic lagoons of the South Pacific to the awe-inspiring vistas of the Grand Canyon and the beauty of India’s most famous homage to love.

Vanuatu celebrates 35 years of independence.

Night Markets in Marrakech.

Credit: Insight Tours

Credit: South Pacific Tourism

The acclaimed Taj Mahal at dawn.

Credit: Wandering the World

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W H AT’S H A P PE N I N G

Splendour and Misery Pictures of Prostitution in France (1859-1010) September 22, 2015 – January 17, 2016 Musée d’Orsay, Paris This exhibition traces the way in which French and foreign artists have captured the realities and fantasies of prostitution in France.

On display are works by Manet, Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, Munch, Vlaminck and Picasso, depicting their forays into brothels and Paris’ underworld. The exhibition exposes social and cultural idiosyncrasies through objects d’art, salon paintings, sculptures and photography. www.musee-orsay.fr

Fine Art Asia 2015 October 4 – 7, 2015 Hong Kong Back for its 11th edition, Fine Art Asia 2015 will transform the bustling metropolis of Hong Kong into a mecca for all things art.

Attracting thousands of collectors, dealers and enthusiasts, the fair will host a huge array of distinct showcases that put Chinese antiques alongside Himalayan bronzes, classical French furniture and contemporary art. Demonstrations and lectures will analyse artefacts and break down the cultures and philosophies behind the art. www.fineartasia.com

Oktoberfest

Food Network New York City Wine and Food Festival

September 19 – October 10, 2015 Munich, Germany

October 15 – 18, 2015 New York City, USA

What began as a town’s celebration of a royal marriage in 1810 has now evolved into Oktoberfest, an international event attracting more than six million people to the world’s largest celebration of beer. The first day kicks off with the ceremonial tapping of the first beer keg at noon, while the rest of the festival sees travellers enjoy quality local brews and Bavarian delicacies in cavernous tents, along with plenty of music, dancing and carnival attractions. www.oktoberfest.de

Gathering gastronomic talent from around the world, the Food Network New York City Wine and Food Festival aims to thrill tastebuds with a host of cuisines and wines. Featuring celebrity chefs like Matio Batali, April Bloomfield and 'cronut' inventor Dominique Ansel, as well as wine personalities like Anthony Giglio, the event promises world-class dishes and fine wines from local and international vineyards. Check out the intimate dinner hosted by Alain Ducasse and be spoilt with French bistro delights. www.nycwff.org

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WHAT’S HAP P E NING

Wanderlust Festival October 15 – 18, 2015 Sunshine Coast, Australia

The Lammermuir Festival September 11 – 20, 2015 East Lothian, Scotland

A unique lifestyle event, Wanderlust combines world-class yoga instruction, outdoor activities, music by international performances, food, art and inspiring talks in scenic locations around the world. The Australian event celebrates the stunning Sunshine Coast location with music by Donavon Frankenreiter and Sneaky Sound System, and yoga sessions by international practitioners like Janet Stone, Eoin Finn, Nikki Ralston and Gwyn Williams. www.wanderlust.com

Featuring classical music performed by ensembles and orchestras, the Lammermuir Festival is a ten-day musical gala in East Lothian, an area of Scotland well-known for its spectacular natural beauty.

The festival takes place in historic surrounds like the Dunbar Parish Church and the grand Yester House. Bringing together spectacular scenery, buildings and music, visitors can enjoy performances by fine musicians. www.lammermuirfestival.co.uk

Nagasaki Kunchi

POP Montreal 2015

October 7 – 9, 2015 Nagasaki, Japan

September 16 – 20, 2016 Montreal, Canada

Immerse yourself in the richness of Japanese culture as your bear witness to the lively festival of Nagasaki Kunchi, a festival celebrating the city’s diverse history. With a tradition stretching back more than 370 years, spectators are enthralled by the parade featuring massive ship floats and dragon dances that pay homage to the city’s Dutch and Chinese influences. However, the highlights of the festival are the traditional Japanese performances and colourful ethnic showcases that engage and tease the senses. www.japan-guide.com

POP Montreal 2015 is a must for any pop-rock enthusiast. This international music festival features local talent and big names from the music industry, including Motorhead, Babes in Toyland and Will Butler. More than just a series of concerts, POP Montreal also promotes contemporary film and art in the weeks preceding the event, giving insight into the city’s ever-evolving cultural scene. www.popmontreal.com www.explorer-magazine.com 7

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Kids First New York’s The Mark hotel has unveiled a host of new treats for its youngest guests, just in time for family vacations over the summer. Leading the pack is the Suite Slumber Party, which includes a selection of family movies for an in-room movie night, complemented by chocolate milk and cookies from The Mark Restaurant

by Jean-Georges, and a customised black-and-white striped teepee tent in the room for when it’s time to hit the hay; the next morning, the whole family wakes up to breakfast in bed. Families can also enjoy a junior tour of The Metropolitan Museum of Art that’s been specifically created for guests aged between 10 and 13, and on return, indulge in frozen treats at The Mark’s new boutique ice cream stall created by Jacques Granges. For families with young kids, The Mark offers Maclaren strollers for strolls through Central Park, accompanied by a Jean-Georges picnic hamper. www.themarkhotel.com

Family Fun with Le Meridien Le Meridien Hotels has partnered with the LEGO Group to offer an exclusive complimentary Welcome Amenity for young guests checking into any of its more than 100 properties around the world. Children under 12 years will receive the complimentary LEGO toy when checking in with their families. The LEGO Welcome Amenity is the first feature of the new brand-wide, multifaceted Le Meridien Family program that is set to debut this fall. The program focuses on immersive experiences for the whole family that allows them to get under the skin of their destination. “Travel broadens a child’s perspective of the world, expanding inherently curious and creative minds," says Le Meridien's senior vice president Brian Povinelli.

“Our exclusive partnership with the LEGO Group encourages families to unlock their destination through imaginative free play, strengthening bonds and creating memories that are sure to last, and the LEGO amenity sets the tone for this upon arrival at our hotels.” www.starwood.com 8 www.explorer-magazine.com

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In the Footsteps of Giants Guests of the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp now have a new way to get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures with the introduction of the new two-hour Walking with Giants experience. The experience allows guests to follow the elephants on their daily stroll, along with the camp’s resident vet or biologist, and watch the elephants romp through grasslands or forests, bath in rivers and play in mud. Guests will also help prepare snacks for the elephants as the expert leading the walk explains elephant biology and behavior, and provides insight into the past, present and future of Thailand’s elephants. The Walking with Giants experience is offered alongside the Mahout Experience and Elephant Learning Experience as part of the resort’s all-inclusive Discovery Package.

Other elephant activities, including elephant yoga, sunset elephant treks and elephant picnics are available at an extra charge. www.anatara.com

Explore South Korea’s Ancient History History buffs can now indulge their interests in South Korea, with a collection of historical sites from the country’s ancient Baekje Kingdom just added to the Unesco World Heritage list. Collectively called the Baekje Historic Areas, the cultural sites are spread across the neighbouring cities of Gongju, Buyeo and Iksan. This is the twelfth heritage-listed site for South Korea. Visitors to the newly-minted Baekje Historical Areas, located in the mountainous mid-western region of South Korea, can explore eight archeological sites dating from 475 to 660C, including the Gongsanseong Fotress, the royal tombs at Songsan-ril Ungjin – present day Gongju; the Busosanseong Fotress; the Gwanbuk-ri administrative buildings; the Naseong city wall; the royal palace at Wanggung-ri; and the Mireuksa Temple in Iksan. The collection represents the later period of the Baekje Kingdom, which lay at the heart of technological, religious, cultural and artistic exchanges between the ancient kingdoms of Korean, China and Japan. www.visitkorean.org.au www.explorer-magazine.com 9

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Snow Fun in Canada Top British skier Emily Sarsfield will host an unmissable ski adventure with Kicking Horse Powder Tours next March in Canada’s Powder Highway region. The sevenday adventure, open to advanced skiers, will see guests take to the slopes on ski guide-led off-piste skiing adventures across Kicking Horse, Revelstoke and Lake Louise during the day, and relax in fully catered onmountain accommodation at Vagabond Lodge. Sarsfield will offer intensive big mountain skiing experiences as well as coaching to help fine-tune skills on the slopes, while ACMG (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides) leader Scott Belton will guide groups through back country terrain. A highlight of the trip will be snowmobile trips to a remote backcountry camp where guests will enjoy dinner in the wilderness. Priced at GBP2,450 (US$3,818) the exclusive ski experience includes airport transfers from Calgary, all transportation, seven nights’ full board accommodation, in-resort guided skiing, all ski passes, one day of ‘Big Mountain’ riding skills coaching, four days of guided off-pisted backcountry skiing; and an evening snowmobile expedition for dinner. The package can be upgraded to include one day of heliskiing. www.kickinghorsepowdertours.com

Junior Masterchefs in Thailand Young travellers to Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, can hone their culinary skills with the resort’s new Petit Chef programme.

Created especially for kids between five and 11 years, the complimentary program allows tots to experience a true taste of Thailand through a full culinary experience that includes selecting ingredients in the resort’s organic garden and whipping up a meal for parents. The highlight of the program is a field trip to the organic garden, where the chef will introduce the benefits of home-grown produce, provide an interactive lesson on how to identify several varieties of fruits and vegetables, and show how to harvest them at the peak of flavour and ripeness. Kids will then head to the kitchen for a behind-the-scenes tour and an interactive class where they’ll learn to make delicious dishes from their freshly harvested organic produce, including long yard bean salad, local spinach ravioli, lemongrass macroon and a pandan butter cake. www.phulay-bay.com 10 www.explorer-magazine.com

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Oh Canada Travellers can now enjoy three new experiences Experiences,

with

Canadian

which

include

Signature unique

adventures in Alberta, British Columbia and the remote territory of Nunavut.

Spring Caribou Migration offers visitors to the Arctic Watch Wilderness Lodge on Ennadai Lake, Nunavut, the chance to see thousands of Oamanirjuag caribopu head north during the spring caribous migration; The Rat’s Nest Adventure Tour is a spelunker’s dream, with guests able to climb, crawl, slither and rapel the historic Canmore Raves of Alberta; while the Historic Li-Jik-hel Mine Expedition is a three-day horseback journey that takes guests through British Columbia’s right gold-mining past in the wild-west themed town of Pemberton. www.keepexploring.ca

Adventures in Vietnam SpiceRoads has introduced an all-new Vietnamese tour that takes intrepid adventurers along the former supply route used by the Vietnamese during the war. Road Biking the Ho Chi Minh Highway is an 11-day tour that starts in Hanoi, and cruises through the lush countryside along the Song Ma River, taking in limestone karst peaks, peaceful paddy fields, impressive mountain passes and stunning national parks along the way. The route will also take in significant sites from the war, including Khe Sanh, the location of the longest and most controversial battle.

The tour finishes with an easy downhill ride into the former imperial city of Hue. The trip sees travellers cycling 50 to 150km over nine days, clocking up a total of 922 km, fully supported by knowledgeable guides. Road Biking the Ho Chi Minh Highway is priced at US$2,400 for standard bike rental, accommodation, and all meals, drinks and snacks while riding. www.spiceroads.com www.explorer-magazine.com 11

Fa m i ly F r i e n d ly

HAPPINESS

HAS A

NEW HAVEN

The new children’s club at Maldivian hideaway Per Aquum Niyama offers entertainment and enjoyment for families of all shapes and sizes.

Y

ou and your young charges follow the winding curves of a sandy trail into the lush green island jungle on the isle of Play. The outside world slips away and you enter one where imagination reigns and encounters with the surreal await at every corner.

The launch of the wildly imaginative children’s club, Explorers, at Per Aquum Niyama in the Maldives takes island excitement to dizzying new levels. At Explorers, run by an international operator and a team of highly qualified carers, children discover activities tailored to their age group and inspired by the out-of-this-world natural beauty of the Maldives.

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Throughout the resort, family-spirited accommodation, dining and experiences abound. Sophistication meets exploration, with extra special attention lavished on VIPs both large and small. A giant caterpillar greets you on white sands. A dinosaur and blue whale bob hello. Tweens prepare to embark on a snorkelling safari or to tread the boards at the club’s own amphitheatre, and infants drift to sleep listening to traditional Maldivian stories in the secure haven of their very own den.

Children at Explorers join one of four tribes, segmented by age. With dedicated care for infants as young as 12 months, the children’s club is unique in the Maldives. Children aged from 1 to 2 are known as Globetrotters and enjoy quiet areas, the highest ratio of caregivers to

Fami ly Fri endly

children, and age-appropriate activities introducing them to arts, music and nature. Adventurers – the tribe of 3 to 4 year olds – race hermit crabs, boduberu drum and splash under a watchful eye.

Voyagers aged 5 to 7 and Pioneers from 8 to 12 years enjoy their own purpose built facilities and challenging fun with activities such as kayaking, dolphin spotting, local island trips, pizza making, mini Olympics and immersions in the underwater playground Subsix with the resident marine biologist as well as the Great Per Aquum Niyama Treasure Hunt.

At Explorers’ heart, an outdoor fun area welcomes children with a playground, trampoline, splash park and stage. Munch, the mini

gourmet kitchen, offers cooking classes, dining and refreshments catered to the tribes’ different tastes with child-friendly foods.

Beyond the children’s club, family-themed options at Per Aquum Niyama run a spectacular gamut from the chilled out to the adrenaline surged in spa, dining, accommodation and activities.

For mini fashionistas, the Bali-based New York fashion designer Paul Ropp has created an exclusive children’s range which is only available at the boutique at Per Aquum Niyama. Explorers take to the catwalk once a week to showcase the vibrant designs to fashion forward families.

Rightfully located on the isle of Chill, Lime Spa reigns supreme as www.explorer-magazine.com 13

Fa m i ly F r i e n d ly

one of Per Aquum’s signature concepts, and its relaxation journeys cater to the needs of a modern family. Sometimes Mama needs a spa day. And sometimes the experience is even more memorable with Daddy and the kids. LIME Spa family packages include Family SPArty, Mother & Princess, Daddy & Prince, Family Yoga and the Family Massage Workshop. A dedicated children’s menu spans a range of kid-friendly treatments from Daphne the Dolphin Massage to Cool Camel After Sun Treatments to Captain Red Claw Mani.

The resort’s cutting-edge restaurants bring passionate creativity to the table in luxuriant flavours for adults while still offering the utmost attention to young palates. As parents explore new territories of cuisine, smaller diners tuck into child-pleasing items like the rainforest fruit salad at Edge, chicken tempura in the tree tops of Nest, mini tacos at Tribe and traditional kids’ favourites at the casual-butchic beachfront restaurant, BLU. At the children’s pool, an ice cream parlour satiates sweet holiday cravings with cool homemade ice creams, sorbet and a variety of confections.

stocked in guests’ rooms or on request. Items include top-of-the-line strollers, bottle warmers, baby monitors, high chairs, baby baths, infant care supplies and toys. Children and teenagers receive special welcome gifts and turndown service.

Families are free to book any studio, suite or pavilion they please, but Per Aquum Niyama has put children top of mind in its new One-Bedroom Beach Pool Suites and TwoBedroom Family Beach Pavilions. Guests enjoy a private space for family relaxation with the convenience of direct beach access, the beauty of ocean views and signature touches like a popcorn machine and complimentary ice cream chilled in a lusciously well-stocked fridge, known as Deli-In. The resort offers a full spectrum of baby needs pre-

Tempting excursions invite families to venture out on a Turtle Quest, Dolphin Cruise or Nemo & Friends snorkelling tour followed by the opportunity to adopt-acoral and leave a positive mark on the reef. Float, the resort’s water sports centre, offers a variety of beginner scuba courses for young and aspiring divers as well as an overflowing line up of ocean activities. For families who want to sail off on new adventures, Float will happily provide captain, crew and a sea chariot of their choosing – from dhonis to parasailers to speedboats. Along the way, families may choose to snorkel the reefs, fun tube, picnic on a deserted island, fish for dinner or make new friends at a local village.peraquum.com/niyama.

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adv enture

GALÁPAGOS FOR GOOD

If you’re looking for an awesome bucket list-worthy adventure that also leaves its mark on the local ecosystem (in a good way) then how about Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic's new Conservation in Action Galápagos itinerary? This series of departures will offer intrepid travellers a host of unique enriching experiences, from snorkeling with sea turtles, penguins and sea lions, and hiking among sea bird colonies to transforming trash into treasure with local artisans, with the goal of raising money for the line’s Lindblad-National Geographic Fund. The fund has already raised US$6 million and Lindblad will donate a further at AU$6,990 per person towards conservation for any new reservation made for travel to Galápagos from August 15 to September 26, 2015. The nine night voyages will be operated aboard the 96 guest National Geographic Endeavour and the 48-guest National Geographic Islander at AU$7,510 per person based on double occupancy in a category 1 cabin. www.expeditions.com www.explorer-magazine.com 15

Tan za n i a

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Tanzania

WHERE THE

BIG CATS ROAM Nick Walton travels across the Serengeti visiting three of its leading wildlife camps in search of today’s luxury safari experience.

I

t gets dark quickly in eastern Africa, as if a great vacuum cleaner drains the sky of light, the acacia trees of the southern Serengeti quickly becoming gently swaying silhouettes against an increasingly indigo sky. Night nestles around our crackling camp fire like a lover’s embrace, its flickering flame acting as a beacon against the darkness of the African bush. Immobile but ever-vigilant, a Maasai warrior, draped in a red wool shawl against the chill of evening and clutching a traditional leaf-shaped spear called an eremet sero, scans the tree line, his ears tuned to the calls of nature. He is our sole defense against whatever might be out there, watching our little camp fire from a distance.

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Tan za n i a

There is something magical about sitting around a camp fire enjoying a post-meal brandy under a glorious canopy of stars. It’s as much a part of the African bush experience as the early morning game drives or lingering game walks under a late afternoon sun.

While our Maasai can probably hear all manner of activities taking place in the bush beyond our little circle, all I hear is the roar of silence far from the big city, the crackle of the fire, and the pitter patter of conversation. It’s blissful.

I’m at Olakira Ndutu Camp in the deep south of the Tanzanian Serengeti and it’s my first night on safari. My two travelling companions and I have the six-tent camp – which moves seasonally with the animals of the great migration - to ourselves, save for a friendly, ever-smiling staff that serve a three-course dinner with gusto despite our remote location, and afterwards tell tales of the Serengeti past and present by the light of the fire, our Maasai warrior sometimes smiling to himself as he eavesdrops.

Olakira Ndutu sets up camp in a shaded forest clearing in the acclaimed Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area between December and March. The region, located west of Arusha in the Crater Highlands, is recognized as one of the most important conservation reserves in Africa and its crater, a large volcano that exploded and collapsed on itself three million years ago, is home to hippos, elephants, black rhino, crocodiles, cape buffalo and a large concentration of lions. It’s a popular first step for safari seekers who drive from Arusha or fly from Kilimanjaro International Airport with African specialists Rober Mark Safaris, a company which sends an increasing number of affluent travellers to Tanzania for an African experience that’s out of this world.

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Earlier that day, the game spotting began before Jarad, the kiwi bush pilot who flew us from Kilimanjaro International Airport, had a chance to set the tiny 12-seater Grand Caravan down on a dirt strip a short drive from Kwihala. From the plane we spy zebras grazing and giraffe walking like catwalk models across the vibrant savannah below. A family of warthogs, their tails erect in the air like radio antennas, go to ground with the passing of the turboprop.

We’re picked up by our guide from the camp in a long-wheel base Land Rover with open sides and high-mounted seats that are ideal for game viewing. Here, in the southern Serengeti, every movement – whether you’re on a game drive or just getting from A to B – is a safari experience; within minutes a large herd of elephants emerges from the thorny treeline as we bump our way towards camp, two adolecents wrestling with their thick trunks. a 'toddler' the height of a man raises a clump of savannah grass in the air as if in greeting, the elephant equivilent of a smile on his face. Beyond, a cape eagle owl the size of a housecat glared at us from his shaded perch and a cheetah languished in a bed of reeds waiting for the sun to dip lower in the sky. Our guide has keen eyes and an encyclopedic knowledge as we trail timid buskbuck, ambevolent elant and a herd of wildebeast. Rhubarb-hued agama lizards dart from rock to rock in our wake.

Olakira is a clutch of nine spacious canvas-floored tents, each boasting a sitting area, work desk, queen sized bed and massive bathroom, complete with flushing toilet. Bucket showers mean staff deliver the hot water to a tank at the back of the tent at a prearranged time. After dinner I’m guided through the inky darkness to my accommodations by our Maasai warrior, who is armed with

Tanzania

a powerful torch and his trusty spear. His torch beam scans the tree line surrounding the camp, looking for the tell tale reflection of a lion’s eyes or the sillouette of a startled elephant. It’s a poiant reminder that we are the outsiders here on the savannah, and that the wild things know where we are.

Life on the plains begins early and before the golden arrival of the dawn we’re already up, blary-eyed but excited. After a cooked breakfast and strong, steaming coffee, we leave Olakira, on an airport transfer that doubles as an early morning game drive, taking advantage of the increased activity on the savannah before the sun starts pounding. A pair of fearless honey badgers dart across the road before us, and two spotted hyena eye us casually before scampering off in their signature skipping rythem. A cheetah sits motionless in the gentle breeze, one eye on our slow approach, the other on a herd of dikdik, and beyond, a pride of lions pretend not to notice us as they lounge on a rocky peak surrounded by gently swaying savanah grass the colour of manuka honey. www.explorer-magazine.com 19

Tan za n i a It’s a short flight north and east to Namiri Plains, a true African story of conservation and rehibiltation. Closed for 20 years to create a safe haven for cheetah, the reserve, and its intimate Asilia Africa camp, opened in July 2014, promising an unrivaled ‘big cat country’ experience. One of the joys of Namiri is that, unlike in the reserves surrounding the Ngorongoro Crater, you don’t have to share this slice of Africa with anyone. In fact, after being picked up at the nearest landing strip, we quickly become the only game vechile for as far as the eye could see. Following a long ribbon of dirt track across the flat landscape, we spy more yelping hyenas, circling buzzards that soar effortlessly in the thermals, and a pair of male lions cooling off in the shade of a desert date tree, their dusty manes halos of bronze-coloured hair wreathing battle-scared faces. In an acacia tree an auger buzzard feasts on a plump green chamilion.

We arrive at the camp in the early afternoon and as we dismount from the safari 4x4 our guide whispers to us “Do you see? We’re being watched.” It takes me a while to catch on, eventually spying a pair of golden ears and an attentive face peaking up from the tall grass less than 50 meters away. It’s Namiri’s resident lioness, a beautiful cat who shares her time between the shade of a tree on the far side of a dry riverbed from the camp’s dining tent, and the tall reeds of the river bed below, where her cubs safely play. The idea of a lion lurking, only a few bounding leaps from where we sit with our gin and tonic sundowners, is exhilerating. It’s why we’re here.

Namiri Plains is a little less hardy than Olakira, a little more on the pampering side. The migration passes through Namiri Plains from October to May and unleashes spectacular predator sightings during December and January as the resident big cats feast on the passing herds of wildebeest and zebra.

The camp’s eight tents are well spaced apart, and offer spacious

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bathrooms with flushing toilets, screened off snuggs and king-sized beds.

My tent, the furthest from reception and thus the most isolated, offers stunning views across the dry riverbed, where warthogs and wildebeast graze in the early morning sunshine.

The afternoon is spent on a game drive; we watch as zebras drink at a water hole framed with emerald grass, and play hide and seek with cheetahs in a pile of ancient bolders the size of a block of flats. As the sun sinks into the golden grass later that evening, our guide plays bartender, and serves gin and tonics in the back of the game vechile. Only steps away a pride of lions enjoys some family time, two three month old cubs taking turns to stalk us before their mother calls them back with a growl and a yawn that reveals rows of brilliantly white teeth.

That night we dine under a spectacular canopy of stars, lit by dancing lamps suspended from the camp’s great acacia tree. After drinks around the fire pit, we move across to the candle-lit communal dining table to join guests from America and England who have just arrived. A dinner of potato and leek soup and zesty fish curry with fluffy saffron rice is followed by a long, quiet session of star gazing and self-reflection, and I can’t help but wonder if the lioness is enjoying the same view as we are, or if she is already out hunting in the darkness. That night I hear the things that go bump, as a hyena and a family of warthogs walk through the camp, one of them pausing to rub itself on the thick canvas of my spacious canvas-floored tent. There’s very little risk of him getting in through the double zipped layers so I just lie in my king-sized bed, hold my breath, and listen to the night close in around me.

Our final stop is Sayari Camp, another short bush flight away and our third Asilia Africa retreat. Despite the short, hour long flight, the landscape below changes dramatically; we leave the flat savannah for the northern Serengeti and the Mara River, on the border with Kenya. Here the grasslands have been burned away as part of an annual program to

Tanzania landscape is quiet; a family of elephants, including two babies, stands in the shade of a kigelia tree and watch our progress and soon the tancoloured tents of the camp can be seen on a low ridge.

Sayari is home to 15 tented suites, built in two wings. Most guests stay to one side of the camp, with the second wing dedicated to families and groups travelling together, and boasting its own facilities. With spacious, air conditioned living spaces, a small signature spa, and an infinity swimming pool that offers captivating views and welcomed respite from the afternoon heat, Sayari is no hardship. My spacious hard-floored tented suite features a little patio, a deep soak tub, a flushing toilet and flowing shower, and a king-sized bed. Outside, only 100 meters away, a mother elephant and her child stroll past without a care in the world. A northern goshawk circles above us like a drone, its broad wings casting a perfect silhouette in the late afternoon sunshine.

With the sun hanging low in the sky, we set out on our last game drive, heading north towards the Kenyan border in the wake of a herd of elephants that trace the dry riverbeds in search of grass. A family on mongoose race through the grass behind us and a hundredstrong herd of cape buffalo eye us closely as we skirt around them.

The leopards that many travellers venture north to find are eluding us this evening but, as we stop at the top of a gentle rise to welcome the sunset with ice-cold gin and tonics, we spot a pair of rare black rhino in the distance. There are less than 70 black rhino left in the

help regenerate the ecosystem before the great migration arrives, revealing undulating hills dotted with massive, polished boulders. But even in the absence of the migratory animals the Northern Serengeti is famed for its populations of elephants, antelope, buffalo and cats, which can be seen throughout the year.

Departing the landing strip we skirt around the Mara’s deep river bed watched by massive Nile crocodiles and a clutch of hippo cooling off in the deeper water. The river is a popular spot for Great Migration viewing as hundreds of thousands of wildebeest attempt the crossing, the resident crocodiles doing their best to catch a few in the process. But today the

Serengeti due to endemic poaching and this rare encounter is the topic of the table when we return to camp and a glorious three course dinner served under the African stars and serenaded by the timeless folk songs of local Kuria tribesmen. It’s a breathtaking finale to an unforgettable African adventure.

Travel Essentials Ask your agent to book you an itinerary with Robert Mark Safaris, the leading Tanzania safari experts. www.robertmarksafaris.com www.explorer-magazine.com 21

Ho n g Ko n g

New

Beginnings in

Old Haunts One central Hong Kong neighborhood is reinventing itself as the city's home of cool, discovers Nick

I

Walton

t's a little after eleven on a glorious Saturday morning, and the pavements of one little corner of central Hong Kong are bustling with pedestrians. The foot traffic is an eclectic mix; there are tourists searching for deals in the many antique stores and boutique galleries. There are local expats reading papers and enjoying Eggs Benedict at chic sidewalk cafes. In the district's little Hollywood Road Park elderly Chinese women perform fan dances to scratchy music while their husbands crowd around stone chess tables.

This is Sheung Wan, a dynamic, colourful, eccentric neighborhood a stone's throw from the glass-encased towers of Hong Kong's central business district. Despite its close proximity to the banks of Central and the affluent residences of the Mid-Levels, Sheung Wan has managed to retain a very local persona; there are fresh flower and vegetable markets that open before sun rise, noodle stands with street side seating; and majong parlors which burn the midnight oil. There are coffin workshops and open-air butchers, and a fantastic antiques market, its stalls and stores stained with age.

But it’s also a suburb undergoing change. As rents in the bustle of Central continue to rise on the world's most space-strapped island, the city's hip persona is venturing west, into Sheung Wan's shop fronts and alleyways, creating a diversity that's both kaleidoscopic and enthralling. New restaurants, cafes and clubs, art galleries and yoga studios jostle for space with Chinese tea shops, meat warehouses and traditional medicine clinics.

Heritage is in vogue in Hong Kong, and this tiny district is turning into the city's chic capital.

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Hong Kong

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Ho n g Ko n g

Despite its small statue, Sheung Wan is in fact one of the city's most historic precincts. It was a key component of British settlement known as Victoria City, which encompassed much of northwest Hong Kong Island. In fact, the site for the original 1842 occupation is now Sheung Wan's Possession Street, although heavy reclamation means it no longer has a waterfront vista. Hollywood Road, one of Hong Kong's oldest throughways, runs through Sheung Wan like a vital artery and travels past Aberdeen Street, the official border, down to the ancient Man Mo Temple. Steps away Gough Street is one of many lanes where new bars and restaurants cash in on the subtle address change.

Henning Voss has lived in Hong Kong for the past four years, and is founder of NecesCity, an online men's lifestyle guide located in the heart of the emerging neighbourhood.

“As a typical gweilo (foreign) bachelor, I spent my first two years in Hong Kong living in Soho, until I bought a place in Sheung Wan,” says Voss. “During the last few years Sheung Wan has become a much hipper and trendier place. Now it even attracts crowds that normally would not make their way past the Man Mo Temple. Hip restaurants like Wagyu Kaiseki Den, and 208 Duecento Otto, art galleries, posh apartments and quirky shops have really transformed the area.”

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Hong Kong

Although intrepid foreigners like Henning have lived in Sheung Wan for years, it was the city's arts community which brought the best of the city's art scene west, according to Kevin Kwong, arts editor at the South China Morning Post, one of the region's leading Englishlanguage newspapers.

“Sheung Wan has always had a connection with the arts scene, not least because it has a performing arts venue, the Sheung Wan Civic Centre, but also because the Hong Kong Repertory Theatre, Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra and Hong Kong Dance Company are also based there,” says Kwong. “Another active theatre company, Theatre du Pif, has also set up shop there.”

The Cat Street Gallery, one of the first contemporary art galleries to make the move to Sheung Wan, and its adjacent The Space venue,

housed in a former meatpacking building, have both helped to bolster the neighborhood’s arty credentials. They were followed by the likes of Sin Sin and ParaSITE as well as design stories like Innermost.

“When I moved The Cat Street Gallery to the Sheung Wan end of Hollywood Road in 2008, a lot of my friends thought I was mad - it was a one-way street and our neighbors were generally just coffin shops,” says owner Mandy d'Abo. “It's still a one-way street but over the last two and a half years, our neighbours have changed immeasurably.

Soho has crept West-ward and now walking down Hollywood Road, as well as the traditional antique shops, you pass endless little galleries, studios and cafes. The area has transformed itself into a must-see for anyone visiting Hong Kong interested in art and design.”

Several chic new restaurants have also opened in Sheung Wan over www.explorer-magazine.com 25

Ho n g Ko n g

the past year, taking advantage of cheaper rents and bigger spaces, including Magnolia, a Cajun-themed private kitchen that's always packed, innovative fine dining gallery-cum-restaurant Bibo, northern Thai kitchen Chachawah, and 208 Duecento Otto, a chic Italian restaurant that smacks of the Big Apple.

And new restaurants and cafes are always opening; a hop skip and jump from 208 is Heirloom, a chic conservatory-looking eatery reminiscent of Sydney's Darlinghurst district, and serving up Balinese Mexican fusion cuisine, while a block behind Yardbird is a modern izakaya-style restaurant that specializes in yakitori and has become a local instution.

It's easy to see the contrast that makes Sheung Wan such a popular destination for tourists and residents alike. Across the street from Heirloom, back at 26 www.explorer-magazine.com

Hong Kong Hollywood Road Park, the old Chinese men continue their matches of Jeuhng Keih (Chinese chess), and their wives move from fans to the gliding movements of tai qi. Balancing that contrast is the tricky part.

“I think it will be tough to keep the balance,” says Henning Voss. “Rents are on the rise and new apartment developments will add to this craze. However, Hong Kongers living in Sheung Wan are a pretty conservative crowd, so I hope we will keep the dry goods shopfronts, antique boutiques, and traditional Chinese medicine shops. It's part of Hong Kong's identity.”

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Hote l r e vi e w

The Place BETWEEN WORLDS It’s easy to feel blissfully lost between eras at Bintan Island’s newest luxury retreat, discovers Nick Walton

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T

Hotel re vie w

here’s a gentle breeze off the deserted white sand beach and the horizon is empty save for a solitary white sail that shimmers in the mid-day sunshine. You’d never think you were only an hour from one of Asia’s most important cities, but that’s the beauty of The Sanchaya, the newest hideaway on the Indonesian island of Bintan – it’s luxury escapism at its very best.

As easy as it is to sequester yourself away in your Old World-meets-New World suite, it’s well worth prying yourself from its clutches and heading out, if only to commandeer one of the double-sized beach beds, or set up pool side with a cocktail menu and one of the estate’s complementary cooling kits (cool towels, bottled water, sun tan lotion, lime wedges). From either spot you can muse over The Sanchaya’s dining offering.

That’s not just escapism from the rat race of city life, although that’s a big part of why people, especially families, come here. It’s my wife Maggie and my first visit to Bintan Island, an easy one-hour ferry ride from Singapore, and we were certain we would be sharing our sun-kissed slice of paradise with the masses. But The Sanchaya, with its unique blend of colonialesque pomp, Thai serenity and contemporary luxury never seen before on Bintan, seems to absorb its guests into their own little bubbles of peace and quiet. Save for a few somnolent souls poolside, we have the property’s expansive Lagoi Bay beachfront to ourselves.

You could forgive most resorts for having average-at-best dining – after all, you’re not in the city, you’re here for the sun and the waves and the massages. The Sanchaya breaks that mold with two restaurants and two lounges, each with their own persona. Poolside is the Tasanee Grill, dedicated to Thai street food under the stars, although its bar also shakes up a great daquari during the day as well as a tantalizing lunch menu that means you don’t even have to leave your sun lounge to find sustenance.

Of course you can escape to many places in Asia; it's authentic hospitality, an attention to detail, chic, history-inspired design by Thailand’s P49 Design, and great dining that stands The Sanchaya apart. For many guests the experience begins at the resort’s own VIP lounge at Bintan’s Bandar Bentan Telani Ferry Pier (unless you arrive on your own yacht), where the Estate’s ‘Artisans’ take over, running through check in processes, dinner recommendations and spa appointment bookings with military precision and plenty of smiles. Then it’s a 15 minute drive to the property, a harmonious if not curious marriage of British colonial estate and Thai village where you’re as likely to find yourself sipping Pimms and playing

croquet as you are munching on ayam bakar with a jasmine-infused mojito.

At The Sanchaya you choose the canvas of your own escape; there are nine sumptuous suites in the Great House, the main estate building, a beautifullypreserved two-storey beachfront manor with deep wrap around balconies, gleaming hardwood the colour of cinnamon sticks, and black and white panel work reminiscent of the bungalows of 19th century Malaya. There is also the Lewan Village, a clutch of Thai-styled one bedroom villas nestled around their own lagoon, each featuring spacious outdoor dining areas, Bang & Olufsen televisions, and glorious bathrooms. Families travelling together are also spoiled for choice, from the three-bedroom Leelawadee Villas, with their private pool terraces, through to the 240sqm two-storey beachfront Presidential Villa, with its four lavish guest rooms, private infinity pool, spacious kitchen, and dedicated living and dining areas.

All day dining takes place at the Dining Room, housed within the Great House and home to the most leisurely breakfasts south of the equator, which are laced with homemade pastries and preserves, eggs to order and traditional Indonesian Jamu Gendong tonics served by a roving herbalist.

Before dinner you’ll probably discover the vibe of The Bar, a decidedly decadent space of leather chairs and aged rums devised by UK mixology gurus Fluid Dynamics (they also do a mean cup of Ronnefelt tea, including their own Sanchaya blend made from carefully selected leaves from smallbatch farmers in Nepal), while next door The Salon and Library is all about good wine and even better cheese, and not only boasts an elegant lounge complete with copies of To Kill a Mockingbird and To Whom the Bell Tolls, pith helmets, indigenous art and overstuffed art chairs, but also a

modern private dining room that features a glass-encased wine library and bespoke degustation menus for those special celebrations far from home.

If you need a reprieve from all this good living, you can make amends with a visit to the estate’s state-of-the-art 24-hour fitness centre, if only to browse menus from your perch on the exercise bike. If you’re more willing to quench desire with wellness sin, The Sanchaya Spa is a blissfully private enclave with both indoor and outdoor treatment suites that serve up indulgent treatments inspired by the age-old wellness traditions of Thailand, India, Bali and Scandinavia. It also hosts yoga sessions on the beach for early risers and all-afternoon holistic journeys for those looking to complement their hatha with a hot stone massage. Finish off with one of the resort’s own fragrant herbal teas and you’ll discover seventh heaven is just off the coast of Sentosa. www.thesanchaya.com

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V i l l a H o l i day

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Natures

V i l l a Holiday

PLAYGROUND

Imagine waking up each morning in a spacious, modern home, and immersing yourself in a private sea-view infinity pool, that's high above the turquoise seas of one of Thailand's favourite holiday islands.

Villa Padma, one of Phuket's newest luxury villa hideaways, offers this unique experience – and many more – to its coveted clientele.

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V i l l a H o l i day

L

ocated in the illustrious in Cape Yamu, a gated community of palatial villas and opulent holiday homes overlooking one of the east coast’s most beautiful bays, Villa Padma’s location offers close proximity to entertainment in Phuket Town and stunning east coast beaches, while Laguna, Blue Canyon and Mission Hills golf courses are only 25 minutes away.

The Ao Po Marina, the gateway to stunning Phang Nga Bay, is only 15 minutes away.

Discerning families and groups of up to eight friends vacationing together are granted ample personal space in this luxurious villa, with four sizeable bedrooms spaced well apart from each other. Each lavishly-appointed space features an elegant open-plan bathroom, a queen or king-size bed, and magnificent sea views.

The Master Bedroom is a true indulgence; featuring its own chic lounge area, an expansive work space, a king-size bed dressed in luxury linens, and the technological perks of a 42-inch flat screen television wired up to a Boxee in-house movie system, and a Yamaha iPod dock, guests will be forgiven for rarely venturing out into the sun. The Master Bedroom's en-suite bathroom is equally indulgent and spacious and features a large dressing area as well as an oversized terrazzo soak tub, complemented by a Hansgrohe rain shower. There are two further bedrooms on the property’s lower level while the fourth is upstairs, and opens onto a wraparound sundeck lined with loungers, the perfect sun trap for an evening cocktail.

Villa Padma affords its well-to-do guests the finest luxuries while away from home; from the 25 metre infinity pool with its submersed beds, to the water fringed sunken sala of the top deck, to the large covered BBQ pavilion, Villa Padma is perfectly suited for stylish entertaining. Although contemporary in architecture, the villa blends seamlessly with its surroundings. Throughout the property beautiful hand-carved Thai friezes and contemporary artworks adorn the villa's interior, fusing perfectly with well-appointed furnishings and the captivating views afforded from each space. Speakers from the Sonos surround system pipe music to outdoors areas so guests can control the villa's ambiance with a touch of a button, and a wet bar is located outside, for when the occasion calls for a cool libation.

The poolside parlor at the heart of the villa is the perfect rendezvous for guests to mix, while an open kitchen is stocked with modern Siemens appliances, and is manned by a private chef who can create sumptuous sit down feasts, served beneath the uniquely luminescent ox bone chandeliers of the vaulted dining room upstairs. A dedicated concierge service can also help with outside dining, bookings and excursions.

For some light entertainment there’s a games room off the shared living area at the property's centre, boasting pool and foosball tables, as well as a sound-proofed cinema room with space for 12, linked up to the Boxee movie library and featuring a large projection screen with surround sound. Sharing the Cape Yamu site, Villa Padma guests also have access to two tennis courts and a fine Thai and western restaurant called Breeze situated overlooking the water. www.villapadmaphuket.com

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