Explorer Magazine Jan-Feb 2017

JAN - FEB 2017

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE NEW OPENINGS IN THE MALDIVES

BEIJING’S ANTIQUE LAND

THE WORLD’S TOP HOTEL SUITES MANILA

FAMILY LUXURY REDEFINED

THE EDITION SANYA

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

W

elcome issue

to of

the

Explorer,

first the

environmentally-friendly

digital magazine for true world wanderers, for 2017. We kick off the year with both touches of adventure and of luxury, and as always, bring you the most inspiring family-friendly travel experiences from across the globe. We start off in China’s

Hainan Island, a tropical paradise where the new Edition hotel has opened on an idyllic strip of South China Sea. There’s time to explore an exciting new enclave in Manila before venturing into Beijing’s eclectic antique markets in search of time-weathered bargains. We visit one of Bali’s most beautiful family-friendly villa properties and check-in at some of the world’s greatest hotel suites, before slumming it in the Maldives with some of the most exciting openings in the archipelago in years. Wherever you’re travelling, whether it’s warm or chilly, with friends or family, we hope Explorer continues to be your guide to the world beyond throughout the year ahead.

Safe Travels,

David Leung Publisher

CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Ancheta is an American-born Beijing based travel and lifestyle writer who has written for the China Daily, Hong Kong Jockey Club Magazine, and Jetsetter.

Born and raised in Hong Kong, Crystal Leung has a strong passion for exploring the world. Having worked in Australia and America, as well as having visited over 20 countries, she is never tired of sharing her travel adventures.

WORLD IN PICS

Streaks of light at Iceland’s newest spectacle, the Northern Lights Run. Credit: Wow Air The sun-kissed Gold Coast of Australia remains one of the country's most popular tourist destinations.

Credit: Gold Coast Tourism

Soaking up the sun in Costa Rica.

Credit: Cayuga Collection.

CAPTURING THE BEA FROM TROPICAL LOCALES TO HERE’S THE TRAVEL SNAPS

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WORLD IN PICS Caspin Journeys has introduced luxury Italy walking tours

Hiking at the Forest of Nisene Marks State Park.

Credit: Santa Cruz Tourism

Tuk Tuk’s prepare to lead the annual Elephant Parade in Bangkok.

Credit: Anantara Hotels & Resorts

The annual Bachfest, held in Leipzig’s market square in honour of Johann Sebastian Bach.

Bhutan’s iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

Credit: G Adventures

AUTY OF THE WORLD WORLD-CLASS EVENTS, CAPTIVATING US THIS SEASON.

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

Envision Festival February 23 – 26, 2017 Rancho La Merced, Costa Rica

The perfect excuse for a Caribbean escape and a chance to commune with nature, Costa Rica’s Envision Festival takes place where the rainforest meets the ocean. This year’s line-up at the bohemian-meets-hipster festival includes New Zealand electronic musician Opiuo and American music group Rising Appalachia, who are complemented by a series of stage performances and yoga sessions with seasoned professionals, including Sianna Sherman. www.envisionfestival.com

Light City

March 31 – April 8, 2017 Baltimore, USA The first large-scale international light festival in the US, Light City will, for the second year, offer festival-goers seven nights full of light, music and innovation on the harbourfront of Baltimore.

Having welcomed more than 400,000 visitors last year, this captivating event promises travellers a memorable feast of interactive technology, illuminated sculptures and live music performances along the beautiful shoreline. www.lightcity.org

Splashy Fen Music Festival April 13 – 16, 2017 Underberg, South Africa Capture the essence of late summer in South Africa with the country’s longest-running outdoor music party, the Splashy Fen Music Festival, in KwaZulu-Natal. With a spectacular line-up of local and international bands, complemented by locally-inspired arts and crafts, this is the ultimate Easter long weekend for rock and folk music lovers. This year look out for Australian rock band The Temper Trap and American folk musician Rodney Branigan. www.splashyfen.co.za

Snowbombing April 3 – 8, 2017 Mayrhofen, Austria

Originally a post-ski nightclub promotional event in France, awardwinning electronic dance music festival Snowbombing has become a much-anticipated event at Austria’s Mayrhofen’s ski resort. Travellers can enjoy snowboarding and skiing on the mountain flanks during the day, and dance the night away at both converted tennis club and enchanted forest stages or join in the festivities at the igloo village. Expect a brilliant music showcase, from classic rock and Britpop to underground, by big names like American hip hop supergroup Run the Jewels, and English indie rock ban Courteeners. www.snowbombing.com

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

Wanderlust Feb 2 – 5, 2017 Taupo, New Zealand

A worldwide festival for spiritual souls looking to experience yoga and meditation sessions set against the beautiful North Island of New Zealand, Wanderlust will arrive at Lake Taupo next month as the country’s largest showcase of healthy living and wellness. The lakefront event draws locals and tourists alike, looking to share in the live music performances, wine tastings, healthy feasts and adrenalin-laced activities, from skydiving to bungee jumping.

Look out for the mass yoga sessions, informative talks and group hikes. www.wanderlust.com

South by Southwest March 10 – 19, 2017 Texas, USA

Begun as an indie film festival, South by Southwest exhibits a variety of films, media, and music all over Austin each spring.

With film viewings and music performances by headliners such as Portuguese DJ Ride and R&B singer-songwriter Farida, this unique event welcomes leading industry influencers and celebrities as well as film buffs from around the globe to its premieres and exclusive after-parties. www.sxsw.com

Sapporo Snow Festival February 1- 12, 2017 Sapporo, Japan A wintertime event featuring ice sculptures, snow rafting, and Japanese winter cuisine, the Sapporo Snow Festival showcases 400 spectacular ice and snow sculptures at three sites in downtown Sapporo. Challenge yourself on snow slides outside the community dome at Tsudome; ride on the ice sculptures at Fureai Hiroba Plaza; or witness artists carve animals, historic buildings, and Japanese life scenes at the Ice Sculpture Contest. www.snowfes.com

Up Helly Aa

January 31, 2017 Lerwick, UK

Europe’s largest fire festival, Up Helly Aa celebrates the Nordic heritage of Scotland’s Shetland Islands, and marks the end of the Christmas season. Tracing the timeless ritual of tar barrelling, the festival sees the Guizer Jarl, the principal character in the celebration, lead his squads of a thousand supporters in themed costumes on a torchlit procession on the streets of Lerwick. The burning of a Viking galley is the highlight of the festival, and signifies the outset of night parties, at which the revellers dance and drink the night away at local town halls. www.uphellyaa.org JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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NEWS

Gateway to the Middle Kingdom

The first urban resort in one of China’s largest cities, the Regent Chongqing opens this month in the financial district of Jiangbeizui, at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers. With 181 guest rooms and 21 sumptuous suites, each boasting river vistas and the five-fixture bathrooms made famous by Regent in the 1970s, the hotel’s elegant and contemporary interiors, which are complemented by an impressive art collection featuring works by Lee Eun, Donnie Pan, and Yi Meng, echo the economic importance of Chongqing in today’s China, while also paying homage to the city’s rich heritage. Be sure to sample authentic Sichuan cuisine at Lijing Shuen and during the warmer months, head to the outdoor rooftop bar for seasonal cocktails. www.regenthotels.com

From Mountain Top

For the ultimate Arabian Nights experience, check in at Oman’s stunning new Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, a modern-day palace perched 2,000 metres above sea level on the curving rim of a great canyon. Named for Oman’s previously inaccessible Green Mountain, Al Jabal Al Akhdar, a towering massif on the vast Saiq Plateau, the new resort is a two-hour drive from the capital Muscat or four-and-a-halfhour drive from Dubai. Guests pass through verdant date plantations and past historic forts as they ascend the mountain to the 115-room retreat, which boasts touches of traditional fortified architecture and captivating rooms overlooking the abyss. Pamper yourself with one of 33 one or two-bedroom villas, each with butler service and private clifftop infinity pools, and leave time to experience the resort’s romantic Dining by Design dinner at Diana’s Point, a clifftop platform visited by the late Princess in 1986. www.jabal-akhdar.anantara.com

New Yachts & Tours for Crystal

Crystal Cruises has unveiled a host of itineraries for its new river yachts launching in 2018. To coincide with the arrival to the fleet of two new luxurious river vessels, Crystal Debussy and Crystal Ravel, Crystal will offer new seven-day voyages, with at least two overnight stays per sailing. Crystal Debussy will sail picturesque routes along the Rhine and Moselle Rivers between Amsterdam and Basel, visiting some of Germany and Switzerland’s most picturesque locales. Itineraries include the seven night Tulips & Windmills, with overnights in Amsterdam; the 10-day Splendors of the Rhine, visiting Koblenz, Kehl and Basel; and the seven-night Legendary Rhine, with overnights at Rudesbeim and Cologne. Crystal Ravel will offer a varied selection of itineraries along the Rhine, Moselle, Main and Danube Rivers, embarking from Vienna, Budapest and Basel and calling in historic locales in Germany, as well as Austria, Hungary, Slovakia and Switzerland. www.crystalcruises.com 8

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New Adventures from Aurora

Family Fun under the Phuket Sun

Set on a verdant hillside overlooking some of Thailand's most celebrated beaches, Avista Hideaway Phuket Patong MGallery by Sofitel has opened on Phuket, offering a prime location and the perfect setting for a private hideaway for families and couples seeking tranquil island adventure. While drawing its inspiration from the traditional culture, arts and way of life of the local villages, guests will find plenty of signature MGallery by Sofitel comforts and amenities. The hideaway Thai village theme is featured prominently in the hotel's 150 rooms and suites, each infused with classic motifs and Thai-inspired interior décor of rich local woods and natural stones. The family-friendly hotel also features three themed swimming pools with saltwater filtration system, a kid's club, games room, mini putting green and virtual golf game, spa, fitness centre, library, and business centre.The aptly named Vista all-day- dining restaurant serves contemporary Thai and international cuisine, while Sizzle, the resort's rooftop steakhouse serves a variety of seafood dishes and the Rendez-Vue Rooftop bar offers an array of tapas and cocktails. www.accor.com

Heralding an age of authentic hospitality to the rich Cultural Triangle, Jetwing Lake has opened in Sri Lanka, boasting contemporary design, modern comforts and the best panoramic views of Dambulla. The all new Jetwing Lake is 5km away from the Dambulla and offers close proximity to many of the region’s heritage sites, including the famous Dambulla Cave Temple and the world renowned Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Overlooking the Siyambalaweva water tank, an ancient man-made lake, and with a backdrop of endless mountain chains, the resort features 94 guest rooms painted in warm earthy colours and equipped with luxury bathrooms, sitting areas, satellite TVs, wifi, air-conditioning king-size beds. Look out for the signature restaurant, which opens out to a large garden area, as well as a fully-equipped spa, gym and swimming pool. www.jetwinghotels.com

NEWS

Expedition cruising experts Aurora Expeditions has launched its new-look Expedition Guide, featuring their exciting range of 2017/18 small-group adventures to Antarctica, the Arctic, Scotland, Ecuador, Patagonia and Australia's Kimberley Coast, as well as brand new itinerary options to help travellers plan the ultimate adventure of a lifetime. The new Antarctic Explorer 'Fly & Sail' itineraries allow travellers to maximise their time in Antarctica with only one sea crossing, making them perfectly suited to the time-conscious traveller. Antarctic Explorer departs February 2018 with prices starting from US$9,500 per person. The new Arctic Complete voyage offers in-depth exploration of Spitsbergen and East Greenland over 24 days. Arctic Complete departs July 2017 and July 2018 with prices starting from AU$14,280 per person. Finally, in 2017, passengers will have the chance to join Kimberley adventurer Mike Cusack as he returns to Australia’s Kimberley Coast to celebrate the 30-year anniversary of his Year in the Wilderness. Kimberley Coast expeditions operate between Broome and Darwin and depart June and July 2017. Prices start from AU$,7,990 per person. www.auroraexpeditions.com.au

An Oasis of Splendor

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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HOTEL REVIEW

HAWAIIAN SECLUSION IN THE MIDDLE KINGDOM

The newest luxury retreat on the island of Hainan, a destination dubbed the Hawaii of China, The Sanya Edition is the embodiment of a sophisticated boutique hotel set against the South China Sea, discovers

Isabelle Lui.

E

very year, Hainan receives tens of millions of visitors – over 53 million in 2015 alone – from around the world.

With its tropical climate, natural beauty, and burgeoning tourism spots, the island’s southernmost city, Sanya, has developed into a favourite holiday destination for both Chinese and Hainan’s growing number of foreign visitors.

Joining the ranks of luxury hotels and resorts along Haitang Bay, one of five major bays developed for tourism, The Sanya Edition marries natural beauty with contemporary art and five-star service. Arriving guests are welcomed by pavilions framing an elegant bamboo grove and a tranquil waterlily pond that perfectly captures the changing sky above. Beyond, the hotel boasts 512 guestrooms, 46 of which are suites, along with an additional 17 hotel villas, each of which includes a private pool and patio.

My first steps into my one-bedroom suite are led by slowly opening curtains unveiling the stunning, uninterrupted oceanscape, visible

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HOTEL REVIEW from any of the hotel’s rooms thanks to the semi-circular shape of the property. The light-filled room impresses with naked oak finishes, soaring ceilings, and a spacious balcony with daybed. There is also cutting-edge in-room technology, including automated curtains (hence the welcome) and USB outlets. Beyond the combined dining and living area is the master bedroom with its king-size bed, dressed in signature Frette linens, and surrounded by a circular sheer curtain. Behind sliding glass doors is an oversized circular bathtub that, complemented by a full set of Le Labo bathroom amenities, can satisfy visitors seeking in-room wellness indulgences.

Luxury-savvy travellers can choose to stay in the hotel’s villas, nestled in a mini forest to one side of the hotel and adjacent to the hotel’s pools. Each boasts wood and stone features, as well as a choice of “Double-Double” rooms, King rooms, and Loft rooms, with sizes ranging from 47.5sqm to 61sqm.

Aside from the boundless ocean views and the luxurious hotel rooms, the property’s “private ocean”, a 20,000sqm ocean-fed pool designed exclusively for water sports, including kayaking and paddling, is wreathed with verdant gardens laced with Hong Kong orchids and Spider Lilies. The adjacent infinity pool is dedicated to indulgent swimmers looking to take in

beachfront views, as is the adults only pool, which is available for guests seeking more privacy and solitude.

Dining plays an important role at Edition. Xian Hai By The Sea, located beside the “private ocean”, offers freshly and locally sourced fishing-boat-to-table dishes, and comprises al fresco seating and an indoor private dining room. The Jade Egret, a yacht-inspired dining space, teases visitors’ palates with its wide variety of pre-dinner cocktails, appetiser, and small plates. The Rooftop Bar offers sweeping views of the ocean and the beach from the highest point of the hotel, while allowing guests to savour a selection of cocktails and wines, with eclectic music by high-profile DJs. Couples travelling with kids can easily find some alone time thanks to the hotel’s Playland, designed for kids and adults alike, which offers a range of themed-spaces for families seeking a fun and exciting vacation. After a day of high-energy activities, rejuvenate at The Spa, which spans 2,000sqm on two levels, and features a series of luxury wellness programmes, including water therapies, offered across its 11 treatment rooms and suites.

No. 100 North Haitang Road, Sanya, Hainan, 572013 China; Tel: +86 898 8835 9999; www.editionhotels.com

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AIRLINES

MIDNIGHT

IN MUMBAI

Jet Airways’ new flights between Hong Kong and Amsterdam via Mumbai offer Europe-bound travellers even more comfort and flexibility, discovers Nick Walton on a recent flight between Asia and India’s commercial capital en route to the Neatherlands.

Pre-Flight I checked in my luggage at Hong Kong International Airport’s Terminal 2, which offers an easier security process and a quick transfer to the Plaza Premium lounge near gate 40, access to which is offered to the airline’s Premiere business class and First Class passengers. Departure was from the new Midfield Concourse onto a Boeing 777-300ER with 8 seats in First Class, 30 in Premiere, and 308 in Economy.

The Flight Jet Airways’ crew, dressed in their sophisticated dark blue and vibrant yellow uniforms, welcomed us onboard with hot towels and glasses of fruit juice. The modern, elegantly-appointed herringbone business cabin layout was in a 1-2-1 configuration, with seats in soothing cream 12

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AIRLINES and burgundy. These are among my favourite seats in the air; there’s plenty space, and amenities galore. Each seat converts into a 185cm flat bed at the push of a button, and includes 90cm of space at shoulder level (when lying down) and 84cm at the hips. My window seat 9A was just behind the galley but maintained a sense of privacy and included electronic lumbar support, an ample service tray, independent air controls, little pockets to store phones and adapters, in-seat power, and a 15.4inch personal monitor, which gives travellers access to the airline’s comprehensive Panasonic eX2 on-demand entertainment system.

Dining Having taken drink and dinner orders before takeoff, crew were quick to commence the meal service, serving glasses of Billecart-Salmon Champagne and piping hot towels with smiles and an air of refinement. The airline offers a flexible Dine Anytime menu, ideally suited for night flights. This featured a green pea and mint soup, followed by the choice of Southern Indian Jhinga curry with prawns, tamarind and coconut; spicy honey glazed roast chicken with snap peas and egg noodles; Kadhai Paneer with capsicum, tomatoes and crushed coriander; and Mushroom Wellington with sautéed vegetables and a creamy carrot sauce. I matched the chicken, which was perfectly cooked and seasoned, with a glass of Cecelia Beretta Lugana from Italy. I skipped dessert – a choice of rasmalai cheese dumplings in condensed milk, or orange banana cake – deciding instead to make the most of the darkened cabin by watching one of the many recent release movies on offer, before grabbing some sleep, with thoughtful crew making up my bed while I changed.

An hour later I woke as we prepared to descend into rainy Mumbai; we arrived on time despite the foul weather, and within 20 minutes I had been guided through transit security and was in the airline’s chic new GVK Lounge, where I showered and prepared for my continuing journey to Amsterdam.

Summary JetAirways’ already legendary service remains a fundamental component to the airline’s success on its direct services from Hong Kong to Mumbai and Delhi, with the carrier now offering convenient links between Asia and its new hub, Amsterdam.

Hong Kong-Mumbai return in Premiere from HK$14,680 (US$1,893) per person; www.jetairways.com JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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MANILA

an urban

oasis Offering a perfect MIX OF MODERN architecture, luscious greenery, and a captivating art scene, Bonifacio Global City breathes new life into Metro Manila, finds

Crystal Leung.

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MANILA

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MANILA

I

f overcrowded streets, infernal traffic congestion, and deteriorating air pollution are the reasons stopping you from visiting the capital of the Philippines on your hard-earned holiday, you’re guaranteed to have a change of heart after delving into Bonifacio Global City (BGC), an up-and-coming business and lifestyle district located in the heart of Metro Manila. Also known as The Fort, BGC exudes a laidback and sophisticated vibe that makes it an ideal destination for family relaxation and entertainment.

Surrounded by skyscrapers, world-class shopping malls, and luxurious hotels, it’s hard to imagine that the BGC used to be part of the main Philippine Army camp at Fort Bonifacio, named after Andres Bonifacio, the Father of the Philippine Revolution.

Situated on 5th Avenue, Shangri-La at the Fort is the newest luxury accommodation in BGC, as well as one of the tallest buildings in the Philippines. After an energyboosting breakfast buffet at High Street Café, a modern food hall adjacent to the hotel’s cavernous lobby, I set off on a facinating adventure to the first public-access science centre in the country, The Mind Museum. A recipient of the internationally-recognised Thea Award for Outstanding Achievement, the state-of-the-art museum is spread across two floors, with five inter-connected galleries and over 250 interactive exhibits. Taking centre stage in the Universe Gallery is the Space Shell, a miniplanetarium where visitors can lounge on comfy memory

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foams while enjoying movies showing the formation of the universe. Fans of Jurassic Park shouldn’t miss the Earth Gallery, home to a life-sized fossil replica of a Tyrannosaurus rex, one of the largest carnivorous dinosaurs to have ever existed.

While The Mind Museum offers a fun-filled experience that can satisfy the curiosity of any inner child, another major drawcard of BGC is the beguiling art scene, which has been increasing momentum in recent years.

Thanks to the Art BGC NextACT ONE Festival - the country’s first mural-centric fair, which debuted in 2015 - the neighbourhood is now decorated in an array of captivating street art which pleases the eyes and feeds the souls. To appreciate the artistic environment in style, I take advantage of the fleet of Bambike bamboo bikes available for rent at the Shangri-La at the Fort. Probably the greenest vehicle on the market, each Bambike is handcrafted with local bamboo and abaca material by workers from Gawad Kalinga, a Philippine-based community development organisation.

Guided by Bryan McClelland, the founder of Bambike, my one-hour journey takes in a couple of mural sites featured in Art BGC NextACT ONE Festival 2016, which includes artwork by local talent Kris Abrigo, as well as American masters Andrew Schoultz and Bunnie Reiss.

Impressive and inspiring, Calamansi and Sampaguita

by Argentinean artist Francisco Diaz, aka Pastel, is a colossal piece painted on the exterior of the BGC

MANILA

Corporate Centre. Representing the native spirits of the Philippines, the mural features the signature plant used in Filipino´s funerals as a way to purify the body, and the national flower, which represents humility and reverence. Also not to be missed is a series of graffiti pieces created by Los Angeles-based artist Nate Frizzell, featuring remarkably lifelike children.

The perfect stop after working up an appetite, Bonifacio High Street is home to a plethora of international dining venues, ranging from Japanese ramen joint Kichitora of Tokyo to Mexican restaurant Agave. The one-kilometre boulevard also hosts international brands and designer labels, as well as a spacious park, ideal for an afterdinner stroll to walk off those extra calories. If you’re looking for something more exhilarating, BGC is also the newest nightlife hub in Metro Manila, featuring Valkyrie, the city’s biggest nightclub, which can accommodate over 2,000 party goers.

With a mission to take home a variety of locally grown mangoes - arguably the best in the world - I make a trip to Market! Market!, a clean, well-organised space which peddles an assortment of flowers, vegetables, fruit and local specialties at great value, including roasted cashew nuts from Palawan, and banana chips from Roxas City.

Opposite the fruit venders is a line-up of food stalls serving up a kaleidoscope of grilled meat and seafood, alongside authentic local dishes, such as pork dinuguan (pork blood) and sinigang na isda (fish soup).

Although the slew of construction sites scattered in BGC temporarily dim the brightness of the district, it’s easy to see the precinct as a promising destination with substantial potential and the strength to capture a fresh generation of bon vivants.

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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BEIJING

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BEIJING

Antique

Land Andrew Ancheta searches for China’s many lost antiquities with the masters of Beijing’s sprawling Panjiayuan antique markets.

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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BEIJING

A

t Panjiayuan, the people are outnumbered by the immortals. The market is home to a polytheistic jumble of carved demons, guardianfigures, Buddhas, emperors, fantastic beasts and minor deities, all crowded together cheek to jowl. Most of them are only knee or waist high, but many are life-sized or larger, including a towering thirty-foot sculpture of Guan Yu, the warrior-god of Taoism. Several colossal dragons snarl menacingly at passersby, alongside a pair of antlered lions with scaly hooves. If these terrifying features really scare away malign spirits, as superstitious locals still believe, then the Beijing Antiques Market must be exceptionally free from misfortune.

Informally known as Panjiayuan, the market claims to be the biggest site for antiquities in China, and a quick circuit of the 26,000 square metres of shopping space is enough to erase all doubt. Every day, nearly ten thousand dealers meet here at the rim of the capital to scrounge for bargains or buyers, and more crowd outside the market gates.

Some of the stores are housed in four or five mall-like buildings, but these are usually deserted: the openair market is where the real fun happens. There the sellers, crowded together under tents, spend their days bickering and haggling over old jewelry and imperial artifacts.

“I've been here for thirty years,” says a shopkeeper named Mai, who squats next to a carpet displaying a collection of Republican-era watches and coins, and the snaking tube of an opium pipe still streaked with residue. When China began to relax its commerce laws in the 1980s, he says, Panjiayuan became an

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impromptu flea market for all the emptied attics and basements of China's not-yet-rich. “There are a lot of fakes here,” he says. “But much less than in other markets of Beijing.” He goes on to generously offer me what he promises is a thousand-year-old coin for “only” nine hundred yuan. I say I’ll think about it.

There is also more recent memorabilia. Life-sized busts and portraits of Mao Zedong stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the other graven images, and the Chairman gazes up from long ranks of collectible buttons and medals, a hot fashion item during the sixties. He's even printed on porcelain plates, for those inclined to invite the Great Helmsman to a home cooked meal.

All of this, however, is buried beneath a hopeless tangle of secondhand baubles, mummified animal parts, mystery boxes, typewriters, old coins, cold-war radios and broken telescopes—the bric and brac of a million emptied households.

“It's like sifting for gold,” says elderly Mr. Li, who spends his retirement strolling between the rows of curios. “Most of the things here are just garbage but once in a while you can find something really special.”

This isn’t just archaeology. Traditional Chinese art forms are still alive and kicking, and the market has many rows of shops specialising in paintings and calligraphy.

Although the works are new, some of the styles haven't changed in centuries.

BEIJING

“In traditional poetry, having correct handwriting was very important,” says Guan Hailan, the proprietor of a bathroomsized stall. “It's like music, you need good rhythm.” It's also a skill of discipline and self-mastery: the slightest tremble or pause will be reflected in the brushstrokes. And forget about touching-up afterwards—experts can spot a cheater.

He shows me a pair of couplets on rice paper, and the brushstrokes are so neat and straight they could have been made with a ruler.

Traditional calligraphers strive to copy older masters as closely as possible, but modern calligraphy is more flexible.

Guan shows me a piece in a newer style; the writing, printed on huge orange sheets with a mop-sized brush, shows a line of Buddhist scripture, but the characters are drawn to resemble the silhouettes of robed monks at prayer.

“Sure, there are some fakes here in Panjiayuan,” Guan admits. The only way to avoid them, he says, is to research the artists and their styles. Like all the shopkeepers I speak with, he insisted that none of his wares are forgeries.

The market's administration strongly discourages fakes, and an appraiser's office near the entrance offers a helpful validation for doubtful customers. Although there is plenty of coloured glass and faux trophies, there are few of the souvenir clichés and cookie-cutter copies hawked at every tourist trap in China. “A lot of people come here looking for something fitting to hang in their office; they don't necessarily mind if it's not truly authentic,” Mr. Li tells me. “But still, be careful what you buy.”

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TOP SUITES

The

Suite

Life Ever wanted to know how the folks on the top floor live? Hotels take their Penthouse Suites very seriously and these leading houses of slumber boast the most lavish and palatial playpens around.

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TOP SUITES

Tower Champagne Suite

LOTTE NEW YORK PAlACE, NEW YORK The pinnacle suite at the newly reimagined Lotte New York Palace hotel, an icon on Madison Avenue that recently underwent a US$140 million facelift, the Tower Champagne Suite is exactly where well-heeled world wanderers should unroll their LV-stitched swag bags.

Located atop the 55-storey Tower wing, an exclusive hotel-within-a-hotel, this opulent suite is as ideal for indulgent recluses as it is for ballers looking to celebrate in style. At 5,000sqft, the two bedroom urban retreat is spread across three floors and accommodates up to six guests amidst black and bronze modern deco interiors that include a Nouveau Nero polished marble foyer and a 29-footwide mural by French artists Alex et Marine. Arrive far from prying eyes via chauffeur-driven Mayback limo and plush private elevator; throw another log on the wood burning fireplace (just joking, your maître d’étage will do it for you); sip a martini on the terrace shaken by mixologists from acclaimed cocktail divan Trouble’s Trust; and have the culinary team create a bespoke degustation menu, served in the private dining room. Afterwards escape the evening chill in the private Jacuzzi, perhaps with a few new-found friends. From US$25,000 per night.www.lottenypalace.com/towers/suites/champagne-suite JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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TOP SUITES

Shangri-La Suite SHAnGRI-LA BOspHORUs, IsTAnbUl One of the city’s newest luxury enclaves, the infinitely-elegant Shangri-La Bosphorus brings touches of the Orient to the gates of Europe. A short walk from Dolmabahce Palace and the boutiques of Nisantasi, the hotel is home to the expansive, regal Shangri-La Suite, which occupies half of the hotel’s top floor and boasts a total of three expansive terraces to ensure the best views of the city’s seven silhouettes. With two sumptuous guest rooms, separate living and dining rooms, and a spacious marble-clad master bathroom, this stylish 3,940sqft suite is sophisticated luxury without being OTT; beds are dressed in 800-count linens, walls are a patchwork of curated art pieces and 42-inch LCD televisions, and the bathroom features heated floors, a deep soak tub and Bvlgari amenities. Be sure to leave time to match Old World wines with authentic Cantonese fine dining (using the suite’s antique silver cutlery, naturally) from the hotel’s signature Shang Palace restaurant at an intimate private dinner party under the stars, or greet the evening with an intimate in-suite spa treatment, conducted by therapists from world-renowned CHI The Spa. US$28,000 per night. www.shangri-la.com/istanbul/shangrila/

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TOP SUITES

Two Story Sky Villa

PAlMs CAsInO REsORT, LAs VEGAs If three is a crowd, 12 is a party, which is just as well, because that’s how many the Two Story Sky Villa at Vegas’ Palms Casino Resort caters to. Located atop the aptly-named Palms Fantasy Tower, this incredible suite boasts two master bedrooms and a duo of doubles for sleep-overs, as well as a total of five and a half bathrooms, each with spa tubs that can accommodate more than a London black cab. Explore your new home-away-from-home via a private glass-encased elevator, which opens onto 9,000sqft of palatial living that includes a glass-enclosed cantilevered plunge pool, an expansive private terrace with views of the Strip, a private spa suite with sauna, and hot and cold running butler service. There are 11 LCD and plasma televisions (almost one per guest), including three found in the media room, a personalised concierge service, and nightly bespoke turndowns. Other perks include VIP club access across the city, and round trip limo transfers. Alternatively if you’re looking for something a little different, the hotel’s 10,000sqft Hardwood Suite features its own indoor basketball court with NBA-sized fold out beds, a pool table, wet bar and its own club lounge. www.palms.com/luxe-collection/two-story-sky-villa JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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TOP SUITES

Royal Suite

BURJ Al ARAb JUMEIRAH, DUbAI For something distinctly more OTT you can’t go past the top suite at what is regularly regarded as the most luxurious hotel in the world. At 8,395sqft, the Royal Suite at the Burj is opulence epitomised, with a price tag to match. With enough colour to give you a LSD flashback, the two-bedroom suite features Rolls Royce transfers, a private elevator, a standalone dining room for 12 in which guests can enjoy bespoke menus from one of the hotel’s seven world class restaurants, an Arabic-styled, harem-esque lounge, a private cinema for impromptu movie nights, a private library for when you’re feeling more philosophical, and as much marble and gleaming gold as you could shake an Amex black card at. The four poster bed in the master bedroom rotates, naturally, and features a 12 option pillow menu and Egyptian linens, while bathrooms come complete with marble Jacuzzis, Kelly Caleche and Terre d’Hermes toiletries and medusa’s head showers. You can control your temporary palace via a gold-dipped iPad, while techies will love the twin 21-inch iMacs, interactive HD televisions, and Bose surround sound system.

A platoon-strength team of butlers will ensure even the most outlandish request is catered to while you play Sultan for a Day. US$23,000 per night. https://www. jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/burj-al-arab/suites/royal-two-bedroomsuite/

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TOP SUITES

The Royal Penthouse CORInTHIA HOTEl, LOndOn A little close to home but with all the regal finesse associated with the British capital, the 5,000sqft Royal Penthouse at the Corinthia Hotel is spread across two levels, connected by a sweeping staircase and internal elevator. Enter via a Chinoiserie-styled lobby dressed in grey Marquino marble floors and gessopanelled walls; beyond is a dining room, complete with a gleaming Makassar ebony dining table catering to ten lucky souls, while there’s another for four in the expansive lounge, home to a working gas fireplace, a fully stocked cocktail cabinet, and oak parquet floors. The help remain unseen in the butler’s pantry, home to a walk-in wine cellar, while guests can secrete themselves in the cozy study, with its large workspace, fireplace and concealed flat screen televisions.

You’ll find it understandably hard to leave the master bedroom upstairs, which comes decked out in honey onyx and yellow Skiros marble, and boasts its own Apaiser stone bath, walk in shower and gas fire, but if you do you’ll discover a spacious master bedroom, a guest bedroom and ensuite in taupe and chocolate, a private spa suite, a separate living room, and a roof terrace with panoramic views and its own gas fire pit, a must for those Amedei Porcelanalaced smores. From GBP18,000 per night. http://www.corinthia.com/hotels/ london/rooms/penthouses/the-royal-penthouse/

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BALI

Family L u x u r y

Redefined

Perfect for families travelling to the Island of the Gods, Villa Lulito offers luxury and convenience at the heart of Bali’s vibrant Seminyak neighbourhood.

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BALI

L

ocated in Seminyak's upmarket Oberoi district, Villa Lulito, part of the Elite Havens collection of luxurious Balinese villa properties, offers families and friends travelling together two things. Firstly, it’s a tropical urban escape within easy reach of many unique Bali experiences, including beach clubs, spas and superb restaurants.

Secondly, it offers a home away from home for discerning travellers looking for family fun under the sun. The villa provides a perfect base for an intimate dinner or before painting the town red. This stylish white-on-white residence with a chic nautical theme and palpable colonial twist is only a short stroll from the beach, world-class restaurants, cool cafes, trendy boutiques and swanky spas. With ample spaces for all, Villa Lulito is a perfect choice for a family holiday or groups of couples or friends.

Four luxurious pavilions are oriented around a generous 15-metre swimming pool, creating one stunning residence. Verdant landscaped gardens fringe each pavilion beautifully and provide a stunning setting for alfresco dining. The two-level sleeping pavilion has a wide balcony with views over the inviting pool. A well-equipped kitchen and relaxed dining space are housed in another pavilion while a formal dining area adjoins glorious living spaces that are adorned with elegant furnishings and modern facilities in a grand central pavilion.

A quick phone call to your villa manager is all it takes to request spa therapists to the villa for rejuvenating treatments in the privacy of your villa. Exciting day trips can be arranged too, whether it is exploring the beautiful rice terraces of the artists' town of Ubud, surfing Bali's world-famous surf breaks or international-quality golfing and boating. The best thing of all, knowing that it is a joy to return to an evening of five-star comfort and luxury at your villa. www.elitehavens.com JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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MALDIVES

PARADISE

PERFECTION FOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW RESORTS IN THE MALDIVES PROMISE UNPARALLELED LUXURY IN THE HEART OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. BY NICK WALTON

Fans of the Maldivian archipelago have a new playground to discover with the opening of Milaidhoo Island.

A pint-sized island at the heart of the Unesco Biosphere Reserve of Baa Atoll, the new resort prides itself on its barefoot luxury approach, with distinctly Maldivian hospitality at its heart. A 30-minute seaplane from the international airport, Milaidhoo boasts 30 spacious overwater villas and an additional 20 beach villas nested in lush tropical foliage. Each of the 50 villas has been designed by local architect Mohamed Shafeeq and open up 180-degrees to capture the essence of the destination. An adult only concept (children over nine are welcome), the resort is a great base from which to explore nearby Hanifaru Bay, a marine park known for its seasonal gatherings of manta rays. www.milaidhoo.com

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MALDIVES

Boasting 24 water villas and one island villa with additional island villas to come, Soneva opened in October.

Located on the island of Medhufaru, part of an uninhabited five-island cluster in the Noonu Atoll, Soneva Jani features the best of sustainable luxury. Each sumptuous villa features interior design

by Soneva co-founder Eva Shivdasani, a retractable roof in the master bedroom, perfect for evening stargazing, as well as a private pool facing the turquoise lagoon; some villas even feature slides going directly from the top deck into the warm water. Soneva Jani includes all of Soneva’s popular features including a spa, a dive centre, an observatory, a children’s den, an Eco Centro, organic gardens, complimentary cheese, chocolate, ice-cream and charcuterie rooms, and an outdoor ‘silent’ Cinema Paradiso where guests wear Bluetooth headphones so as not to disturb the nesting wildlife. www.soneva.com

Having opened in November, Hurawalhi Island Maldives is Located in the Lhaviyani Atoll, a 30-minute seaplane journey from the capital Male. Another Adults-Only resort, Hurawalhi promises luxury and privacy in equal measure. Home to the latest underwater restaurant in the archipelago, as well as an indulgent Duniye Spa and some of the best diving in the nation, Hurawalhi is an all-villa resort with romance in mind; we suggest you set up in one of 15 Ocean Sunset Pool Villas, which offer direct lagoon access, expansive living spaces both indoors and outdoors, a private infinity pool, king-sized beds and well-stocked minibars. If you can drag yourself away from your villa you’ll find innovative dining on offer, including one elegant dining room submerged nearly 6m below the lagoon. www.hurawalhi.com

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MALDIVES

The private island escape has always been the epitome of true luxury travel, and the Maldives is no stranger to pint-sized paradises available for a lucky few. The latest is Four Seasons Private Island Maldives at Voavah, an indulgent retreat in the Baa Atoll, now taking bookings. The first private island for the group, and the world’s only exclusive-use hideaway located within a World Biosphere Reserve, the Four Seasons Private Island Maldives at Voavah is two hectares of perfection, complete with seven guest rooms scattered across the islet, a beach house with living spaces, gym and library, a dedicated dive centre and Oceans of Consciousness Spa, and a 62ft yacht for day time whale shark excursions and evening champagne-laced sunset cruises.

Catering for up to 22 guests on an exclusive basis, the island is accessible via a 40-minute seaplane transfer from MalĂŠ International Airport, or a 20-minute speedboat ride from Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru. www.fourseasons.com 32

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