Explorer Jan- Feb 2016

JANUARY- FEBRUARY 2016

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Copenhagen THE CAPITAL OF COOL IPOH

OLD TOWN NO MORE

PENTHOUSE 64 HIGH ABOVE IT ALL

AIR ASTANA

ST REGIS CHENGDU

SCENE TEAM IN THE CITY

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

W

elcome first

to

the

issue

in

2016 of Explorer, the eco-friendly

digital travel magazine for true world wanderers. In this issue, like in many others, we gallivant around the world seeking out the most

exciting attractions, activities, personalities and adventures for families looking to travel together. We kick off in Copenhagen, a vibrant capital of design and style and a brilliant locale to explore in the spring. Then it’s off to the Canadian Yukon, as the snows of winter melt and the stunning landscapes emerge from their white blankets. We hit the heat of the predominately Chinese city of Ipoh, in Malaysia, to see the transformation of its Old Town into a cool precinct of artists and artisans, before settling down to chat with innovative hoteliers Des Gunewardena and David Loewi, whose restaurants and house of slumber have left their mark on London’s hospitality scene. There’s time to check in at the new St Regis Chengdu, a must visit for panda lovers, and for a stay at Penthouse 64, Auckland’s best kept secret, especially for families and friends travelling together. Where ever you’re bound for in 2016, we hope this is your best year yet.

Safe travels.

David Leung Publisher

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WORLD IN PICS

A time lapse as a Scenic Cruises vessel passes through a lock on the Danube River

Picnic on the Edge of Mount Buffalo's Gorge in Victoria's High Country.

Credit: Absolute Outdoors.

A MYRIAD OF COLOURS

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A wedding party show off their vibrant saris in Rajasthan

A turtle enjoys the beauty of the Great Barrier Reef.

Credit: Tourism & Events Queensland

WORLD IN PICS

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Children and women wear thick Thanaka clay on their face to promote a beautiful completion

Exploring rural Ireland on foot.

Credit: Camino Ways

From lofty tables high on mountain peaks to the vibrant colours of Rajasthan in northern India, here are the photos that inspire us this season.

A poacher turned ranger perches in a tree in a bird sanctuary on Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake.

Kamchatka, in Russia’s Far East, is increasingly popular for expeditionary cruising and photography.

Credit: 56th Parallel

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WHAT’S HAPPENING

Envision Festival

February 25 to 28, 2016 Rabcho La Merced, Costa Rica

Light City

March 28 to April 3, 2016 Baltimore, USA

Packed with art installations, music performances and yoga and healing workshops, the Envision Festival is a magical and sustainable journey, allowing participants to free their body and soul amidst a beachside jungle. A wide range of music will be performed by a contingent of local artists and international talents, including Diamond Saints and folk music group Elephant Revival; while the yoga temple offers different healing modalities and consultations. www.envisionfestival.com

The first large-scale, international light festival in the United States, Light City Baltimore will transform the city into a glowing beacon with world-class light displays, breathtaking interactive light installations, and uniquely curated performances which combine light with art, dance and music. A diverse line-up of up-and-coming artists will take the stage in various venues, showcasing music ranging from electronic beats to soothing R&B. www.lightcity.org

Calle Ocho

Splashy Fen Music Festival

March 13, 2016 Miami, USA

March 18 to 21, 2016 Underberg, South Africa

Part of the ten-day fiesta of the Miami Carnival, Calle Ocho is a 23-block street festival, in which visitors can immense themselves in a range of Latin music, from salsa to merengue, and sample delicious food cooked by local restaurants. An extensive line-up of international stars and emerging talents, including Puerto Rican salsa singer Jerry Rivera and Dominican singer Johnny Ventura, will perform live music across 11 stages. www.carnavalmiami.com

The longest running music festival in South Africa, Splashy Fen welcomes thousands of people from all corners of the world to enjoy the ultimate outdoor experience. Visitors can dance to the music of talented artists such as Australia singer-songwriter Xavier Rudd and Cape Town band Grassy Spark; while their kids will be taken care of and entertained at the Auntie Mim’s Children Centre. Don’t forget to get your fill with quality artisan food in the craft market. www.splashyfen.co.za

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WHAT’S HAPPENING

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Newcrest Orange Challenge

Trinidad and Tobago Carnival

March 20, 2016 Orange, Australia

February 8 to 9, 2016 Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago

A new cycling event in New South Wales' Central West region, the Newcrest Orange Challenge will allow active visitors the chance to work on their fitness while taking in the picturesque surrounds of Orange. The 170km circuit will take riders through the tranquil towns of Cudal, Canowindra and Mandurama and across the ascents of Mt Canobolas, with the professional Bicycle Network team on hand to provide en-route support. www.bicyclenetwork.com.au

Held before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent, the Trinidad and Tobago Carnival is all about colourful costumes, calypso music, and exuberant celebration. The extravagant carnival features an array of cultural events, including J’ouvert, which sees revelers doused in oil, cocoa and mud and party in the streets; the Parade of the Bands, each troop of which is decked out in masquerade costumes; and a series of music competitions. www.ncctt.org/new

Songkran Festival

Snowbombing

April 13 to 15, 2016 Chiang Mai, Thailand

April 4 – 9, 2016 Mayrhofen, Austria

Evolved from the purification ritual of sprinkling statues of the Buddha with water, Thailand’s Songkran Festival has become a countrywide water fight, in which thousands of revelers soak each other with water pistols, water balloons, spray bottles, and hoses.

In addition to the water war, the festival also comes with a variety of interesting activities, including the painted elephant parade and the Miss Songkran beauty contest. www.songkran2014.com

A combination of water sports and music, Snowbombing is a weeklong music party in the idyllic alpine setting of Mayrhofen. By day, you can try your hand at skiing and snowboarding on the long gentle runs and by night, enjoy amazing performances by a wide spectrum of ground-breaking artists, DJs and bands, including The Prodigy, Andy C, Bastille, and Jamie Jones. www.snowbombing.com

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NEWS

Royal Caribbean International will launch the Royal Suite Class in May, featuring a wide-range of benefits and amenities that travellers will expect from a world-class luxury vacation. Debuting on the Royal Caribbean’s Oasis-class and Quantum-class ships, the Royal Suite Class boasts a range of lavishly-appointed accommodations, including the two-deck high Royal Loft Suite, the Four Bedroom Family Suite, and the Grand Loft Suite. Guests will also be able to enjoy unlimited VOOM high-speed internet; complimentary specialty dining; and upgraded room amenities, such as L’Occitane bath products, Frette linens, and Duxiana mattresses. The Royal Genie, certified by the British Butler Institute, will serve as a personal assistant to help guests with anything 24 hours a day, ranging from laundry and show reservations, to cocktail making. www.royalcaribbean.com.hk

Journey to South Korea

French Waterways has added six new boats in its hotel barge collection. The Saroche is a classic Dutch Luxemotor barge, which offers an array of Champagne and Burgundy cruises; while the newlyrefurbished Hemingway features cruises from Dijon to Chagny along the Burgundy Canal. Explore the Canal du Midi onboard the Caroline, a delightful family-friendly barge for a group of up to six guests; or with the Mirage, a boutique barge featuring a spacious saloon with a tasteful aviation theme.

Also sailing along this beautiful canal includes the Saraphina, a traditional 1920s Dutch barge; and the Emma, which offers a superb list of excursions from historic town tours to local farmers' market mooching. www.french-waterways.com www.explorer-magazine.com

Luxurious Sailing

Adventure World has released a new 11-day South Korea Discovery Tour, allowing travellers the chance to take in the highlights of the country's most popular attractions.

The tour whisks guests to the demilitarized zone on the border between South and North Korea, as well as the spectacular Seoraksan National Park, known for its stunning granite outcrops. History buffs will enjoy the visit to the Unesco-listed sites in Andong and Gyeongju, the capital of the ancient Shilla kingdom; while gourmands can sate their appetites with a huge variety of fresh seafood at the Jagalchi Market - one of the largest in Asia - in the southern seaport of Busan. The tour finishes off on the Jeju Island, where guests can visit the famous Jeju Haenyeo Museum and the volcanic crater of the Sunrise Peak. www.adventureworld.com.au

The French Canals

NEWS

Explore the Kangaroo Island

If you’re looking for luxury comfort in the magnificent wilderness of the Yala National Park in Sri Lanka, the newly-opened Jetwing Yala Tented Camp has the answer for you. Located only 200 metres from the Jetwing Yala, this five-star camp features ten stylish tents in rustic design, which seamlessly blend with the wild woodland surroundings. Thanks to the unbeatable views of the wild southern landscape and immediate access to the open ocean, guests can enjoy an al fresco dinner on the verandah, or a supremely romantic dining experience on the sand dunes by the sea. Be sure to arrange a safari into the depths of the Yala National Park, where you can see Sri Lankan elephants frolicking in the heat of the southern sun. www.jetwinghotels.com

Winter Fun

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Discover Kangaroo Island's fascinating wildlife, spectacular coastal scenery, and unique local wines and produces on the SeaLink's four-day Kangaroo Island Tour. The first day’s itinerary includes visits to the Frenchman's Rock; the historic Maritime and Folk Museum; and the Cape Willoughby, the first lighthouse in South Australia; while guests can join a guided walk through a colony of wild Australian sea lions at the Seal Bay Conservation Park on the following day. Be ready to marvel at the natural rugged beauty of the Flinders Chase National Park and sample the Two Wheeler Creek Wines at the Andermel Marron Farm, before sailing back to the mainland, with a stop at Port Elliot, where guests can take in the spectacular views of the Horseshoe Bay. Departures on February 22 and March 19. www.sealink.com.au

The Great Escape

The Sun Peaks Resort in British Columbia, Canada, has added an array of brand new, unique winter activities this season to the already jam-packed activity roster. In addition to the winter Segway tours, Sun Peaks has launched the Fat Biking, one of the hottest emerging activities in the winter sports market. Slightly different in design from the traditional mountain bikes, Fat Bikes rely significantly on wider tires and rims to navigate through the snowy terrain.

The resort has also introduced the Nordic Terrain Park, which is a valuable tool for cross-country skiers of all ages to hone their skills, before setting out on the track-set trails, offered by the Sun Peaks Nordic trail network. www.sunpeaksresort.com

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10 NEWS

Stay In-Style

Ecruising has partnered with the Singapore Tourism Board, the Changi International Airport and the P&O Cruises to launch a range of holiday packages aboard the Pacific Eden, ranging from seven to 17 night itineraries that include flight transfers, hotel accommodations, and well-curated tours. The cruise packages offer a good balance of time at sea and numerous port visits across Thailand, including Phuket, Krabi, Bangkok, Ko Samui and Ko Chang, as well as Indonesia, Malaysia, and Cambodia. Make sure you spoil your taste bud at Luke Mangan's Salt Grill, the only Australian celebrity chef restaurant at sea; or at the new dining concept The Pantry. Theme parties, such as the Bianco and the Great Gatsby, are also available on board to delight revelers. www.ecruising.travel/eden

Family Bike Tour

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Jetwing Kaduruketha has flung opened its door in Wellawaya, an idyllic town in the Monaragala district, offering travellers a perfect base from which to discover the traditional living and natural wonders of Sri Lanka. Inspired by the design of a farming village, the eco-luxury resort boasts 25 dwellings, which are furnished with natural materials, such as wood and bamboo, and offer spectacular views of the paddy fields and mountain ranges. Guests can enjoy the local cuisine on their outdoor terrace, before pampering themselves with a refreshing and rejuvenating treatment at the spa. From this convenient base, guests can also embark on a journey to the Buduruwagala Temple, the Madunagala Hot Springs, or the Yala National Park. www.jetwinghotels.com

Cruising Holiday

For the very first time, dinosaurs are brought back to life with a new museum, Paleo safari Moab Giants, which has opened in Moab, the United States. Based on the fossils found in the area, the museum will infuse guests with the history of the region by its dinosaur and geology through a range of interactive, state-of-the-art technology; while a 3D cinema will whisk visitors back to the prehistoric world to experience the early history of our planet. But the pinnacle of the visit is to roam with 130 full-size reconstructions of dinosaurs on the half-mile-long trail, before cooling off in the paleoaquarium, which offers a better view into ancient life under the sea through different 3D screens. www.moabgiants.com

NEWS

Arctic Adventure

Family with kids should head over to the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia for its summer exhibition, Grayson Perry: My Pretty Little Art Career, which features an in-gallery kids’ art trail showcasing the works of the English artist; a free pop-up creative space named My Pretty Little Art Studio; and a range of kids-friendly dining options at the MCA Café. Located in the National Centre for Creative Learning on the 3rd floor, the stunning exhibition also offers an array of free interactive activities for children of all ages, including the paper-plane decorating workshops and the 'design-your-own-pot' station, where visitors will see their own pot designs projected onto the real pots through a digital recreation.

Entry is free for kids under 12. www.mca.com.au

Villas of the Clans

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Aurora Expeditions has launched a new 24-day Arctic Complete expedition as part of their 2017 European Arctic program, offering passengers an in-depth exploration of the Greenland and Iceland's most remote coastlines. Starting in Spitsbergen, the largest island of the Svalbard archipelago in northern Norway, guests will be enthralled by the island's glaciers and abandoned settlements, before heading north into the pack ice in search for polar bears. The new expedition will attempt to circumnavigate the remote island before crossing the Greenland Sea to discover the world's largest national park as well as the world's largest fjord system – the Scoresby Sund. In Iceland, passengers will explore a remote settlement before ending the expedition in Reykjavik, where they will have the option to extend their adventure. www.auroraexpeditions.com.au

Family Art Fun

Located within the lush woodlands of Kamala beach in Phuket, the newly-opened Keemala hotel blends the fictional history of four indigenous clans with the decadence of an upscale resort. Designed by Bangkok-based Architect Space, Keemala features four avant-garde villa choices, including the Clay Pool Cottage, which reflects the earthiness of the Pa-Ta-Pea (earth) clan; the Tent Pool Villa, showcasing the nomadic way of life of the Khon-Jorn (wanderer) clan; the Tree Pool House, which represent the We-Ha (sky) clan, who worshipped the universe; and Bird's Nest Pool Villa, inspired by the RungNok (nest) community. Guests can tantalise their palates with a plethora of nutritious and delicious meals, infused with locally sourced ingredients, in the four dining outlets, before indulging themselves with a Mayan traditional massage at the Mala Spa. www.keemala.com www.explorer-magazine.com

12 CANADA

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CANADA

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YUKON'S SPECTACULAR GOLDEN

CIRCLE ROUTE IN THE SECOND PART OF OUR YUKON SPECIAL FEATURE WE EXPLORE THE GOLDEN CIRCLE ROUTE, A SPECTACULAR MOUNTAIN JOURNEY WHICH TAKES TRAVELLERS ON A GRAND TOUR THROUGH PICTURESQUE YUKON TOWNS AND ALPINE PASSES TO THE ALASKA PANHANDLE.

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L

14 CANADA

ong before they were highways, the White Pass (on the South Klondike Highway) and Chilkat Pass (on the Haines Road) were trade routes used by Tlingit and Southern Tutchone first nations. The Golden Circle Route contains some of North America's grandest scenery and wildest places. Within relatively short distances, the route covers a wide range of eco-systems - from boreal forest to coastal rainforest to immense icefields. En route you can experience their culture and lifestyle by visiting local museums and traditional fishing villages.

Both of these passes were also used during the Klondike Gold Rush and the towns of Carcross and Skagway still retain the character of those times.

Starting in Whitehorse with the more rounded mountains of the Yukon's interior valley, the South Klondike Highway rises as you approach Carcross and the Southern Lakes region. The road borders some of these large, long, beautiful lakes before rising over the rugged coastal mountains and then descending into the narrow coastal fjord where Skagway, Alaska is situated.

Leaving Haines, the Haines Road follows the wide valley of the Chilkat River until it steeply rises through thick forests of hemlock and Sitka spruce to the magnificent mountain scenery of the Chilkat Pass. The road ends in Haines Junction on the edges of Kluane National Park and Reserve, which contains Canada's highest mountains, the largest non-polar icefield in the world, and a rich variety of bird, plant, and

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CANADA

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animal life. Kluane has some of the healthiest populations of grizzly bears and Dall sheep in the world, and recorded sightings of nearly 200 bird species. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a major tectonic zone (besides being the highest mountains in Canada, they are also the fastest growing) and the major agent in landscape formation is glaciation and contains over 2,000 glaciers - including valley, alpine and rock glaciers.

Day 1 Over the White Pass From Whitehorse, the highway curves between two beautiful lakes - Spirit Lake and Emerald Lake as you head to picturesque Carcross, on the shores of Bennett Lake.

This historic town on the route to the Klondike is also the terminus of the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad, one of the most scenic railways in the world. Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is a designated International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Explore Carcross Commons, go mountain biking, or take a self-guided walking tour (available at the Carcross Visitor Information Centre) that takes you past historic buildings, colourful shops, and attractions. Continuing from Carcross, you will drive through the dramatic rocky landscape of the White Pass and cross the border into the U.S. before the road begins its spectacular descent, dropping from 1,003 metres to sea level in 20 minutes to coastal Skagway, Alaska.

Day 2 Hit the Waves Skagway is beautifully situated at the end of the Lynn Canal. At the Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau you'll find information on Skagway's many attractions and activities, including historic walking tours, gold rush entertainment, and flightseeing tours. From fresh halibut and espresso drinks, to a live theatre glimpse into the gold rush era, spend some time in Skagway before catching the scenic one-hour ferry ride to Haines, Alaska. Watch for whales and eagles, and keep an eye out for grizzly bears fishing for salmon. Haines is a picturesque fishing village situated on a finger of land between Chilkat and Chilkoot inlets in the Lynn Canal. At the Haines Convention and

Visitors Center you can get information on local outfitters offering mountain biking, kayaking and rafting tours. The Sheldon Museum and Cultural Centre has some outstanding examples of traditional Chilkat blankets, which are woven from mountaingoat hair dyed with natural mineral and plant pigments.

Day 3 Haines to Haines Junction Leaving Haines, the road travels along the braided banks of the Chilkat River. This is North America's best eagle viewing area where concentrations reach their peak in mid-November when up to 4,000 eagles feast on the annual salmon run. After crossing the Canadian border, the road rises steadily through to the summit of the Chilkat Pass at 1,065 metres. The pass region is rich in wildlife including moose, mountain goats, bears, arctic ground squirrels, ptarmigan, coyotes and golden eagles. You'll journey past breathtaking views of TatshenshiniAlsek Park and Kluane National Park and Reserve as you head to Haines Junction, located in the traditional territory of the Champagne/Aishihik First Nation. www.explorer-magazine.com

16 AUCKLAND

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AUCKLAND

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HIGH

ABOVE IT ALL

Hidden away on the cusp of Auckland’s waterfront, yet only steps from some of the city’s best restaurants, bars and museums, Penthouse 64 is a luxurious home-away-from-home for those travellers in the know. By Nick Walton

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18 AUCKLAND

I

t’s always fun to explore new digs; to move from room to room, opening cupboards and pulling draws is part and parcel of examining your new temporary retreat. With most suites that initial impression is all but complete after ducking your nose into the bathroom, perhaps having a browse of the minibar, just for reference. Penthouse 64 is not one of those suites.

Easily Auckland’s best kept secret, the sprawling fourbedroom, four-bathroom penthouse not only boasts more space than the average family house, but does so with infinite grace, elegance, and discretion. Boasting over 400sqm of sumptuous living space as well as an additional 300sqm of outdoor entertaining and dining space, Penthouse 64 offers a unique, all-year commune with Auckland’s stunning Waitemata Harbour.

We park our hire car in the cavernous security-guarded garage with the assistance of Penthouse 64’s infinitely elegant manager Stephen, who guides us via private

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elevator into the sun-kissed space and pops a welcome bottle of bubbles in the state-of-the-art kitchen. “Penthouse 64 really is something special,” says Stephen. “It’s a home away from home for people who don’t want to leave their creature comforts behind when they travel.”

He’s not wrong. After an orientation on some of the Penthouse’s seamlessly integrated technology, Stephen leaves us to delight in a room by room exploration; the apartment has it all, from a media room with expansive wall-mounted television, to a wet bar, an outdoor Jacuzzi, covered and uncovered outdoor dining tables, wrap around balconies, a laundry, and lavishly-decorated guest rooms with decadent ensuites.

We start our stay finishing the bubbles in the spacious living room, with its 3.5-metre floor-to-ceiling glass façade overlooking the water, one end thrusting out like the prow of an ocean liner. In addition to a lounge suite and telescope for impromptu star-gazing, the lounge also features a glasstopped dining table for ten.

RAIL JOURNEYS AUCKLAND

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The Penthouse splits from here; one side leads down to the guest rooms, including the sumptuous master suite. While all rooms feature direct balcony access, the master bedroom leads to the Penthouse’s outdoor Jacuzzi, with its views across the water to the Auckland Harbour Bridge. True water babies staying in the master bedroom can even jump directly from outdoor Jacuzzi to indoor over-sized whirlpool bath in the suite’s spacious bathroom.

The other path from the living room leads past the chef’s kitchen, with its Gaggenau appliances and breakfast servery, into a comfortable media room, which in turn either leads on to the ample custombuilt house bar, complete with its own leather-topped bar stools, lounge suite and gas fireplace, or out to the main al fresco entertaining zone, where couches and an over-sized dining table are warmed by another gas fireplace and sky heaters. Thick plastic lining ensure the outdoor space stays toasty, even on Auckland’s fickle winters, without compromising on the views to Devonport and Westhaven. A BBQ is built into an adjacent kitchenette set up, which leads on to an uncovered table for four with captivating views, ensuring seamless entertainment opportunities, rain or shine, in a city that looks beautiful in either.

From NZ$2,500 (US$1,683) per night (minimum of two nights). Book Penthouse 64 through The Exclusive Travel Group, which specialises in luxury travel to New Zealand www.exclusivetravelgroup.com

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20 LIVING

THE CAPITAL

OF COOL Founded in the 10th century as a Viking fishing village, Copenhagen became the Danish capital in the 15th century, cementing its status as a regional centre.

Gayatri Bhaumik goes north to explore a city where cutting-edge design meets living history with a healthy dash of Scandinavian nonchalance. www.explorer-magazine.com

LIVING

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SLEEP Scandinavians are known for their slick, minimalist designs, and while from outside Hotel Skt. Petri (Krystalgade 22; +45 3345 9100; www.sktpetri. com) a Design Hotels property, looks like an unassuming industrial block, inside, it’s a cocoon of Danish cool. Expect clean lines, smooth curves, and quirky light fixtures on a white background, with Danish Artist Per Arnoldi’s signature cool blues and vivid reds enlivening the 268 rooms and suites. This former 1930s department store, a favourite of visiting stars like Pharrell Williams, is hot property, so check into the Star Suite – a fully-loaded penthouse with a cosy sitting area, wraparound balcony, and Jacuzzi and leave time for Restaurant Petri’s sumptuous buffet breakfast or a tipple at Bar Rouge.

The ideal pied-à-terre for boardroom-brawling visitors, the Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel Copenhagen (Amager Boulevard 70; +45 3396 5000; www.radisonblu.com) sits just outside the city centre, and at the heart of its business district.

One of the tallest buildings around, the hotel boasts 455 well-appointed rooms that meld modern minimalist aesthetics with natural elements.

Gourmet travellers will enjoy international cuisine at the property’s three restaurants - European at Mamas & Papas; Japanese at Restaurant Kyoto; and Thai at The Blue Elephant - while punters can try their luck at Casino Copenhagen, the city’s only gambling den.

Edging into Tivoli, the fantastical gardens and amusement park that inspired Disneyland, is the Moorish-style palace that is Nimb Hotel (Bernstorffsgade 5; +45 8870 0000; hotel.nimb. dk), a sexy, intimate hotel of just 17 individuallydesigned suites. In each, you’ll find antique furnishings, Geismar linens, Bang & Olufsen technology, and luxury AESOP bath products – most also have open fireplaces. Settle into the Executive Suite, which boasts 133sqm of unfettered luxury, including a separate bedroom and dining area, a sunken lounge, and a private balcony with unique views over Tivoli. Guests are also spoilt with a host of bars and restaurants, including Terasse, Tivoli’s oldest restaurant, the ever-popular Bar n’ Grill, and the Vinotek, an understatedly chic wine bar. www.explorer-magazine.com

22 LIVING

EAT Noma might be the hottest eatery in town since being ranked ‘world’s best restaurant,’ but skip the months-long waiting list and book a table at the Michelin-starred Kodbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet 100; +45 3215 5656; www.fiskebaren.dk). The hip, industrial-esque restaurant in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district is the brainchild of exnoma sommelier Anders Selmer, and serves up seriously fresh seafood and fine wines in a space that’s all concrete floors and tiled walls, with a 1,000-litre aquarium as an eye-catching centrepiece. Quality, sustainable ingredients from local producers is the focus here, so order up a serve of oysters from the raw bar, and the Limfjorden mussels steamed in apple cider and garnished with herbs.

There are several outposts around the city, but Madklubben Bistro-de-Luxe (Store Kongensgade 66;+45 3332 3234; www. madklubben.dk), in the heart of the city, is the original. The unfussy, restaurant features seasonal menus boasting dishes inspired by the Danish kitchen and bursting with fresh, local ingredients. Highlights of the one to fourcourse menus include fried langoustines with cauliflower and lobster soup; deconstructed apple pie; and The Irresistible, coffee spiked with 23-year-old Ron Zacapa rum served with petit fours. www.explorer-magazine.com

Opened in 1877, Schønnemann (Hauser Plads 16; +45 3312 0785; www. restaurantschonnemann.dk) is one of Copenhagen’s oldest eateries, and the rustic restaurant still features original wooden ceiling beams, tall oak panels, fustian-upholstered seating, and sand on the basement floor. Once a favourite with local farmers, politicians and high-rolling businessmen now flock here to indulge in an extensive menu that includes everything from herring and chicken to eel and tartar, although smorrebrod – the traditional Danish open-face sandwiches – is the house special. The restaurant is lunch-only, so book ahead for a lingering meal, and finish with

a chilled shot of one of the 130 snaps and aquavits on offer.

PLAY A city legend, Jazzhus Montmartre (Store Renegade 19A; +45 3172 3494; www. jazzhusmontmartre.dk) is an intimate jazz venue where greats like Stan Getz, Chet Baker, Miles Davis, and James Brown have taken the stage. The room is dominated by the stage – wreathed by rich, red drapes – and patrons are seated at tables ideally placed to catch the performance. Music lovers can dine early on ever-changing three-course menus inspired by Italian flavours, before catching

LIVING the performances at 8pm.

Recently reopened, The Jane (Gråbrødretorv 8; +45 2613 4510; www.thejane.dk) is a sprawling nightclub and bar where Mad Men’s Don Draper would have sipped whiskey had he ever ended up in Copenhagen. The dark, sexy space is decked out with leather chesterfields and dark wood panelling, and boasts a fireplace and large wood bar in the main room – but adventurous guests will find that the old bookshelves that line the walls may just open to reveal hidden doors leading to other bar areas. Order the award-winning North Sea Lemonade, a tropical, crisp drink bursting with Nordic flavours, and brood over your next killer ad campaign.

A cozy bar in the city centre, Bar 7 (Studiestræde 7; +45 3211 1771; www.barsyv. com) feels like a sophisticated house party.

Creatively divided areas featuring different design aesthetics, old-school TVs propped

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in corners, and an eclectic mix of furniture somehow come together to make you feel like you’re at a friend’s house – although most friends won’t have a glass-top grand piano or seven-metre bar in gleaming wood lying around. Settle into a conversation-conducive corner, and order a tipple from a drinks list that features innovative cocktails like The Kester, an indulgent concoction of exclusive tipples like Richard Hennessy Cognac and Gordon’s Orange Gin.

EXPERIENCE For a different perspective, head to the famous harbour area of Nyhavn and jump aboard one of Canal Tours Copenhagen’s (Nyhavn 3; +45 3266 0000; www.stromma.dk) big sightseeing boats to explore the city from the water. On the one hour cruise through the waterways, you’ll see the Little Mermaid statue; the Opera House; Christiansborg Slot and Amalienborg Slot, the two royal castles currently in use; the Old Stock Exchange; the Royal Danish Playhouse, Our Saviour’s Church; and the National Museum of Denmark, amongst other sights of interest.

The most engaging of Copenhagen’s many castles is Rosenborg Slot (Øster Voldgade 4A; +45 3315 3285; www.dkks.dk), an utterly atmospheric, gothic castle built in 1606 as a country summerhouse for King Christian IV. The historic fort now houses a plethora of royal memorabilia, including the kings’ coronation chair, the queens’ throne, and collections of art and artefacts, but the biggest draw lies in the basement, which houses the Crown Jewels, and the Danish Crown Regalia.

Make sure to pack a picnic and spend an idyllic afternoon in Kongens Have; the ‘King’s Garden’ is Denmark’s oldest royal garden, and one of the most picturesque.

The magical fairy tales of Denmark’s most famous author were a part of many childhoods, and the ‘Walk in the Footsteps of Hans Christian Andersen’ itinerary by Copenhagen Walking Tours (+45 4081 1217; www.copenhagenwalkingtours.dk) offers an inside look at the city as it was when Andersen was resident.

Explore 19th century Copenhagen’s crooked backstreets, quaint buildings, alleys, and secret courtyards; see old landmarks like the Tivoli Gardens, the Cathedral of Copenhagen, and the Round Tours; and get inside tips on local favourites, all while quickly orientating yourself in the city. www.explorer-magazine.com

24 HOTEL REVIEW

OLD WORLD M E E T S NEW TRADITIONS The newly opened St Regis Chengdu brings new levels of luxury and sophistication to one of China’s most historic cities, discovers Nick Walton.

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ith its distinctly Old World charm, combined with cutting edge technology and unravelled service levels, the new St Regis Chengdu is a fitting addition to this ancient city’s hospitality offering. Part of China’s portion of the Silk Road, Chengdu has been welcoming travellers for centuries and its newest indulgent house of slumber sets a new benchmark for high end leisure and corporate travellers bound for the gateway to the West.

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Known as the Silicon Valley of China and home to more than 250 Fortune 500 companies, including Apple, Motorola, IBM, Coca Cola and Toyota, Chengdu is no stranger to corporate travellers, while its panda breeding facilities and stunning mountain landscapes welcome millions of domestic and international holiday makers each year. The St Regis experience begins at Chengdu’s Shuangliu International Airport, one of the world’s busiest. The hotel’s dedicated arrival team meets in-bound guests, escorting them to luxury hotel sedans that whisk them

away on the 30 minute ride into the city centre and the St Regis hotel, located at the heart of the city’s financial belt, just steps away from Tianfu Square and Chun Xi Road.

Opening exactly 110 years after the first St Regis launched in New York, the new Chengdu hotel not only exemplifies the luxurious virtues of the Big Apple original, but redefines them for the modern China market. Its vaulted yet intimate, Art Deco-inspired lobby by interior designers DiLeonardo Design is a far cry from the crowded

HOTEL REVIEW wood work through the suite ranging from maple to espresso. A minibar and coffee machine are hidden away in a stylish Oriental-style hutch beside a glossy dining table and lounges in pale gold and all the electronics in the room, from the 46-inch LCD television to the Bose surround sound system, are controlled by an iPad mini in a leather case. With dual entrances and plenty of space, the suite is as perfectly suited for intimate meetings as it is for a couple’s weekend escape.

The hotel’s split personality continues to its six distinctive restaurants. In Unesco’s first City of Gastronomy, Asian food is a religion and the St Regis has a little something for every diner, from the all-day international dining of the Kokai Studios-designed Social, with its living cooking stations and indulgent, lingering breakfasts, to the extensive wine collection of Decanter, the glass-lined private dining room of which is a popular spot with local oenophiles. Yan Ting is a specialty Chinese restaurant with a menu laced with Cantonese and Sichuan signature dishes, while the intimate Drawing Room in the lobby is home to the hotel’s signatures, a decadent afternoon tea featuring a champagne sabering ritual, and the Chuan Mary, a spicy, Sichuan peppercorn-laced local rendition of the St Regis

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classic cocktail. On the hotel’s upper levels, Yun Fu boasts four expansive private dining suites, complete with electronic mahjong tables, spacious living areas, and beautifully inlaid dining tables, while Vantage XXVII, an outdoor rooftop cocktail bar on the 27th floor, remains the place to be by Chengdu’s social set.

The St Regis’ all weather potential extends to its many outdoor facilities, from the spa’s outdoor relaxation lounge and the al fresco dining terraces, to the expansive pool deck; the St Regis is the only hotel in town to offer both an outdoor swimming pool and an indoor heated pool, ideal amenities in a city where temperatures fluctuate greatly through the year. The indulgent indoor pool, with its adjacent over-sized Jacuzzi and St Regis Athletic Club fitness centre, is complemented by one of China’s most advanced day spas. The new Iridium Spa is a sumptuous urban oasis designed by acclaimed Austrian agency Schletterer that boasts nine treatment rooms – including five signature sky loft-styled suites with holistic cocoon suites - and a menu of holistic wellness journeys punctuated with local ingredients, including the famed organic tea that has drawn travellers to the city for centuries. www.stregis.com/chengdu

entrances of mainstream luxury hotels in China’s largest cities; dedicated butlers - a signature St Regis amenity that’s well received in the Middle Kingdom - is on hand to escort guests to one of 279 elegantly-appointed guest rooms and suites, for an in-room check-in. These welltrained butlers also offer packing and unpacking services, act as extensions of the concierge, and provide pressing, turn-down and tea and coffee service.

The butler’s insider knowledge proves indispensable when it comes to navigating our sublime St Regis Suite, one of eight room categories. The suite features floor-to-ceiling windows that bathe an expansive living room and dining table for six in natural light. Beyond is a master bedroom with a king-sized bed by Simmons, a large leather-topped work desk that doubles as a dresser. The master bathroom – there is another off the vestibule – features a soak tub with television, double vanities in Italian marble, Remède bath amenities, and a cavernous rainhead shower, while a walk-in dressing room is hidden away down a short corridor. It’s the attention to detail that will stand out; the bedhead is faux leather the colour of dark chocolate, the

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26 MALAYSIA

OLD TOWN

NO MORE T

he café is packed to the rafters with trendy young things sipping espresso and digging into towering hamburgers. Punters at tables made from recycled doors are bathed in mid-afternoon sunshine thanks to skylights in the ceiling, which accentuate the tones of the colourful murals which decorate the walls of the time-weathered shophouse. A tree grows from the floor, its branches outstretched to the light. We could be in Singapore, Hong Kong, or even trendy Bangkok, but we’re not. This is the new face of the sleepy, unassuming but utterly endearing Malaysian mountain town of Ipoh.

Ipoh’s Old Town has been going through a metamorphosis of late. The traditional two-storey shophouses of this quiet but historic quarter have been loving reincarnated by a generation of Ipohans who have returned home after study abroad, bringing back with them the cool charm and culinary innovations of the big city. This might not be surprising to outsiders – many cities go through such

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regenerations, and many traditional enclaves across Asia have been gentrified, from Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan to Singapore’s Chinatown – but it’s that it’s happening in typically stoic Ipoh, a city that’s built a culture out of resisting change, that’s most surprising.

Ipoh is a living time capsule; with a rich Chinese tradition, a food culture renowned across Asia, and a proud sense of place, the tiny plateau city, ringed by towering limestone peaks, has always shunned the trends so eagerly adopted in Malacca or Penang, preferring instead to be a bastion of tradition in a world obsessed with change. Until now.

“Ipoh has always been a city that’s quite happy staying the way it has always been, and that’s great when it comes to preserving our heritage, especially our food culture,” says Ipoh-born foodie Maggie Chooi. “But this resistance to change isn’t sustainable; the next generation of Ipohans need to create their own take on

MALAYSIA those traditions, as we see in the cool cafes and boutiques of Old Town.”

Much of the new face of Ipoh Old Town is centred around Burps and Giggles, a café-cumrestaurant housed in a former dressmaker’s shophouse. Created by former finance and logistics professional Dexter Song and his mother Julie Song, who cut her teeth on equally racy restaurants Indulgence (you’ll see some of their favourite pastries and desserts on the menu) and Allegra, Burps & Giggles isn’t just a new kid on the block enjoying the limelight; it’s a unique blend of eye-catching industrial-chic décor and innovative, often eclectic comfort food that would win favour anywhere in Asia. Think the likes of mu shu lamb man tao-style pancakes; lamb sausages with pesto egg custard and spicy beans;

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towering signature Wagyu burgers; and soul-soothingly-good caneles from the café counter. A sign above says “Good Food, Like Good Things, Takes Time.”

Just steps from Burps & Giggles are two other eye-catching, utterly-eclectic foodie offerings: Missing Marbles (disguised as a traditional optical clinic) and Buku Tiga Lima, managed

by Burp & Giggles. Missing Marbles has a fascinating menu that adds modern twists to Asian classics, from soy-braised lamb ribs with sakura leaves; and calrose rice with minced chicken, seaweed and hanjuku eggs; to delicate lychee jelly with custard and vanilla ice cream. The décor is the entertainment here, from bare industrial walls covered in handwritten blackboards, through to paper origami murals, brightly-coloured festival lanterns, and of course, marbles in virtually every corner. Buku Tiga Lima is more of the same eclectic décor, but with a menu that’s decidedly more decadent. Highlights include toasted bagels with foie gras or smoked duck; all spiced chicken crepes with coriander and mango; and the crowd-pleasing hibiscus curd pancakes.

But these hipster havens are just the beginning of Old Town’s new persona. Step through the old shophouses or amble down the narrow alleyways, with their fun murals and leafy canopy, and enter an ancient courtyard that’s half alfresco dining and half vintage garage sale. Here you’ll find the remains of a beautiful neo-classical building that now houses Sekeping Kong Heng, a cool, ten-room boutique hotel. Much of the original brick building, with its distinctive colonial touch, has been preserved, with guests offered direct access into the shaded courtyard behind.

To one side of the courtyard, opposite a bench where old men escape the afternoon heat, the Ipoh Craft Nerds have set up shop, selling homemade arts and crafts on stands and old kitchen tables. A gleaming brass gramophone stands atop a tower of old cook books. Above is a collection of chipped but beautifully decorated Chinese tea sets from the 1930s.

“It’s amazing to see such a transformation, and to play a role in it,” says Alex, owner of Legenda, a cool local fashion boutique housed in a crumbling former kitchen. A banyan tree grows from within the middle of the boutique and 1960s Cantonese pop plays on an old www.explorer-magazine.com

28 MALAYSIA record player. The whole space is flooded with light from cracked skylights high above.

Outside in the shade of the courtyard, there is a more modern touch to the time-worn space. In a pint-sized, glass-encased barber shop, seventy five-year-old Thirunavu Karusu al Krishnan, known by generations of customers to his Star Air-Conditioned Hair Dressing Salon, now part of the Burp & Giggles café, as Uncle Thiru, continues to cut hair with patience and dexterity. As he gives me a trim, much to the interest of café goers beyod the glass façade, he points to a black and white photo on the wall. “I was just 13 when I started at the barber shop, sweeping up hair and helping out.” The shop closed in 2011 when the shophouses were redeveloped, but instead of retiring, he incorporated his barber’s chair into the new vibe, setting up the New Star Salon at the centre of the courtyard. “It’s good to see some vitality in the Old Town. It’s good to see people enjoying, young people.

Everyone makes their own future.”

Freshly trimmed, I head beyond the cool cafes to Lorong Panglima, otherwise known as Concubine Lane, a long, narrow lane of shophouses, some beautifully preserved, some worn and abandoned. An empty lot beyond a rusty Chinese moon door is filled with tall green grass. Yet change is afoot here too; Tiny Art Space is a fascinating little boutique owned by Yu Zhen that specialises in arts and crafts made in Ipoh and its surrounding state of Perak. “It’s important to foster the local arts movements, not just try to make money,” says Zhen, standing in the tiny space that’s part art gallery and part craft shop. “We need to ensure that local artists have a chance to show their talents,

especially here in Ipoh.”

It’s food for thought as I continue further down Concubine Lane, the sun hanging low in the sky. And then I hear it, the gentle, waning tones of The Rolling Stones. I trace the music to the end of the lane and stumble across the newly opened Big John’s Music Shack, a live music venue and traditional British pub opened by Manchester-born John Edward Lomax, who fell for a local girl and moved to Malaysia when he retired. I finish my explorations with a pint of Aspall Suffolk cider at the bartop. The two-level venue has a band pit, imported beers on tap and rock and roll prints on the walls. It feels as though it should be in Merseyside or Ealing.

“It’s exciting to see so much happening in Old Town,” says John. “The city has its traditional areas and that’s fine, but it also needs to beat the path of its future and we’re happy to be on the cusp of it.” I say cheers to that. www.explorer-magazine.com

HOTEL GURU

29

Scene Team in the City

By Sarah Thompson Photos by Steve Herud

Des Gunewardena and David Loewi made their name crafting London’s dining renaissance. With South Place Hotel, they are forging a new revival and following a lifelong calling. www.explorer-magazine.com

30 HOTEL GURU

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ith such iconic London restaurants as Quaglino’s, Le Pont de la Tour, and Coq d’Argent in their portfolio, Des Gunewardena and David Loewi are old hands at the game-changing art of transformation, and specialise in converting run-down buildings into world-class eateries. Gunewardena and Loewi have since turned their Midas-like attentions to the hotel world, opening their first, South Place in the City of London in 2012.

Situated between Moorgate and Liverpool Street, its location a final white-collar frontier before the hipper shores of Old Street and Hoxton beyond, the hotel is in an exciting part of town. On the site of what was once an unremarkable office building, South Place reflects the City streetscape with its glass and metal columns; its glazed frontage at streetlevel - like the glimpse of a stocking suggests the building’s true, more playful function. Eighty bedrooms, a bustling diner, and an elegant rooftop restaurant

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HOTEL GURU

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are all decked out in classic-cool furniture and contemporary art. Envision midcentury Scandinavian armchairs given a true-Brit makeover in classic tweeds, huge deconstructed mannequins dressed in bowler hats and suspenders, and model Spitfire planes hanging from the chandeliers - and you start to get the picture.

“It’s a very indulgent hotel,” says Gunewardena, “for us as much as for our guests. There is more of David and me in this hotel than anything we’ve done before.

We have an in-house DJ and a ‘spy’ theme - all of the meeting rooms are named after secret agents, and our members’ club is called Le Chiffre, after the James Bond bad guy. We’ve been a bit like boys let loose in a sweet shop!”

It is unfortunate for posterity that the Des Gunewardena and David Loewi collaboration didn’t come into being during a legendary dinner, the deal sealed in the small hours of the morning on the back of a coaster. Instead, like all the best relationships, the partnership crept up on them, an obvious and practical pairing born out of years working together and a mutual respect for one another’s talents.

“David has always had great personal skills,” says Gunewardena, “and the importance of being good with people grows as a business gets larger. We needed someone who could manage other senior people, and David was always the obvious choice for that. He also has more patience than me - I love giving attention to the details, but not if it slows me down.

I’m the entrepreneur, always looking for the next opportunity.”

The pair came to the hospitality industry with very different backgrounds. As a young financier striking global property deals in the 1980s, Sri Lankan–born Des Gunewardena had a flat full of Habitat furniture and a keen sense of style. Still, it wasn’t until 1989 that he met Sir Terence Conran (who founded homeware store Habitat in 1964), when he joined the then Conran Holdings as CEO and began the epic journey that would see him take a starring role in the transformation of London’s restaurant scene during the 1990s.

Hotels were an integral part of David Loewi’s world even as a child: his father was a scientist who travelled the world, and his mother was a culinary star of the Lausanne Hotel School in Switzerland. “It was wonderful to travel abroad back then; the food was so much better than in the UK in those days.” He recalls the joy of eating lemon cake with his father in Swiss bakeries, and the immaculate service ethic of the great Swiss ski hotels. “It seemed like a fabulous sort of life,” he says. And one he was quick to sign up for when it came to choosing a career path.

A thoroughbred training followed: his education completed in Switzerland, followed by time at Claridge’s in London and Hong Kong, the Savoy, the Wolseley, and even cruise liners. “It was a lot of fun for a year,” he says. “People were fed incredibly well in huge numbers - witnessing

the organisation that that took was quite something.”

In 1995, Loewi was recruited by Sir Terence Conran to open the groundbreaking Mezzo, on Wardour Street, where he met Gunewardena and their partnership was conceived. They worked together for ten years on and off before eventually buying out Conran’s restaurant concerns and setting up D&D London.

“We come from very different places,” says Gunewardena. “David’s from the shop floor, if you like, and I’m the financier, but there is this constant, very detailed dialogue between us, to the point now that our roles have really blended and it is hard to know where one of us stops and the other starts.”

This story originally ran in Design Hotels’ Made

by Originals book. www.designhotels.com www.explorer-magazine.com

32 AIRLINES

OUT OF THE BLUE Nick Walton encounters remarkable levels of customer service on the most unassuming of airlines.

Jadot Chardonnay from the Macon Villages of France. The quality of the cuisine complemented an in-cabin service that was never slow or rushed; cabin crew were clearly well-trained and handled the quick meal service with military precision and grace.

I navigated the iPad during my meal, and found a suitably diverse collection of films, television shows and music. After my movie there was time for a nap; the seats slide to almost ground level when in lie-flat bed mode but proved to be much more comfortable than expected from such a simplistic setup.

A snack was served approximately 90 minutes out from Almaty, consisting of cold poached chicken with salsa and warm bread. I matched my meal with a local Kazakhstan Line beer.

Summary Air Astana is the national airline of Kazakhstan and has operated since 2002. The carrier, a Skytrax four star airline, is presently counted among the top 20 most profitable in the world, and offers both domestic and regional flights within the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), as well as to an ever-increasing number of international destinations, including Dehli, London, Paris and Hong Kong.

Check In/Boarding Check in for Air Astana is in HKIA’s Terminal 2.

Here I found charming and well-trained staff who quickly and diligently checked me in for my flight to Almaty. The airline’s CEO Peter Foster has made customer service an absolute priority at the relatively young airline, and the effect of intensive training can be seen from the first encounter. After a visit to the Plaza Premium lounge at gate 40, which the airline uses for its premium passengers, we boarded the 757-200, one of 30 aircraft in the airline’s fleet (they also have orders for 787s and A320neos). Although it’s certainly an older aircraft and one of the few flown into Hong Kong, I was very pleasantly surprised with the quality of the Air Astana business class product. The cabin on our daytime flight was 90 percent full.

The Seat Decked out in white, with 16 seats in a 2-2 configuration, the recently refreshed business

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class product for the 757 is ideal for mid-range journeys like the six hour flight to Almaty. The angled-lie flat seat is rather minimalist and does not include a seat-back tertainment system (the crew quickly dished out iPads which can sit in a sling on the seatback in front) but features plenty of storage, AC connectivity, and, ideal for Hong Kong’s hot summers, individual air nozzles.

Glasses of Tattinger Champagne and amenity kits

by Paul Zileri featuring Payot toiletries as well as a host of other useful products, were distributed by an immaculately presented crew who made each passenger feel like a VIP, offering a sense of service lost on many of Asia’s bigger carriers.

Dining Unlike many carriers, crew sprang into action very quickly after the aircraft reached cruising altitude, serving a selection of wines, spirits or local and international beers with an amuse bouche of a tiger prawn with mango. This was followed by spice crusted tuna fillet with celery remoulade, and a seasonal garden salad, and a choice of grilled chicken breast with thyme garlic sauce, chateau potatoes and leeks; stir-fried beef with black bean sauce; grilled hamour fillet with shallot butter and asparagus; or parpadelle with a gorgonzola cream sauce and grilled peppers. Apple pie with vanilla sauce; chocolate mousse cake; and fresh seasonal salad, as well as an international cheese board, rounded out a meal matched with an intense Palaja Colli Perugini Rosso from Italy and a Louis

Summary Air Astana isn’t trying to be a globally dominant airline but one known for the emerging destination of its home base and for its world-class hospitality, an approach that has won it a plethora of international accolades. The flight was one of the more enjoyable I’ve had in a long while and I actually relish the idea of the return journey.

Business class flights from Hong Kong to Almaty from US$3,225. http://airastana.com/tur/en-US/