Explorer May-June 2017

MAY - JUN 2017

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE TWINPALMS PHUKET GO TO LA GOMERA

CAPE TOWN BOUTIQUE HOTELS

AMERICAN AIRLINES

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

FOODIE FORAYS

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

W

elcome to another issue of Explorer, the environmentally-friendly digital travel magazine

for true world wanderers. In this issue, we have a strong food focus, after all, many of us travel to try new and exciting dishes and food is a great bridge between cultures. We start in San Francisco, where a raft of new eateries is taking the local foodie scene by storm, with innovative chefs using the best locally-sourced ingredients to craft gourmet cuisine of every persuasion. In the Canary Islands, we delve into the rich culinary

CONTRIBUTORS Born and raised in

Hong Kong, Crystal

Leung has a strong

passion for exploring the world. Having worked in

heritage of one of Spain’s favourite holiday playgrounds, a food culture infused with traditions from Africa, Europe and beyond. Talking of food tours, a series of intriguing new food-focused itineraries are now available in Hungary and Croatia, both countries with rich gastronomic traditions and distinctive culinary foodscapes.

After all that great dining, we catch some sun in

Australia and America,

Sanya, on China’s beautiful Hainan Island, check

over 20 countries, she is

and check out three unique boutique hideaways

as well as having visited

into one of the most romantic resorts in Phuket,

never tired of sharing her

in Cape Town. Where ever you’re travelling this

travel adventures.

season, and whatever you’re dining on when you get there, we hope Explorer remains your guide and muse for the travel adventures to come.

Sandra Elliot writes

short fiction and travel

stories, but her current

Safe Travels,

focus is The Daughter

She Must Keep, a novel about the struggles of a

second daughter, trying to bring her American

military family together

and help rebuild postwar

Naples, the most bombed Italian city in WWII.

David Leung Publisher

WORLD IN PICS

LOFTY EX

Scenic lakeview at Pinetum Gardens in Cornwall, UK. Credit: Pinetum Park & Pine Lodge Gardens Bird’s view of the Caladesi Island State Park in the Gulf of Mexico, Florida.

Credit: Visit St. Petersburg/ Clearwater

A Marathon runner moving forward at The Great Wall of China.

Credit: Wendy Wu Tours

Watch the East African elephants walk down the riverside with the sun in southern Tanzania.

Credit: Asilia Africa

From the 21,000-kilometre long trail of T Arizona’s Grand Canyon, these are the tr 4

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XPOSURE

WORLD IN PICS

The return of the Light City Baltimore to Maryland, America.

Credit: Visit Baltimore

The cityscape of Zurich, Switzerland reflects much of the region’s culture and history.

Credit: Luxperience

Wondrous views of the Grand Canyon’s multi-hued rock mountains in Arizona, USA. Credit: Arizona Office of Tourism

The snow-covered land at Banff National Park, Canada's oldest national park.

Credit: Adventure Travel Trade Association

The Great Wall, to views from the top of ravel images captivating us this season.

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

Luminato Festival June 14 – 25, 2017 Toronto, Canada

A celebration of the city's arts and creativity, the Luminato Festival attracts over 800,000 visitors to Toronto, Canada every June to enjoy ten days of immersive multi-platform performances.

Festival-goers will be able to watch a series of dance shows like Until the Lions, choreographed by award-winning dancer Akram Khan, as well as live music and theatrical presentations at The Famous Spiegeltent, one of the remaining Belgium mirror tents built in the 20th century. www.luminatofestival.com

Naadam

July 11 – 13, 2017 Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Paying homage to Mongolia’s independence from China, Naadam, also known as "the three games of men", is held throughout the country each summer, with the largest celebration dominating the capital city of Ulaanbaatar. A Unesco-listed intangible cultural heritage, the traditional festival exhibits the three games, Mongolian wrestling, equestrian shows, and archery, as well as throat singing and dance performances. www.naadamfestival.com

Fuji Rock Festival July 28 – 30, 2017 Mount Naeba, Japan

The largest outdoor music event in Japan, the Fuji Rock Festival brings hundreds of thousands of rock music enthusiasts to Naeba Ski Resort in Niigata Prefecture each year. Named for the venue it was first held at, Mount Fuji, the three-day event features more than 200 Japanese and international musicians, including Japanese singer-songwriter Cocco; English virtual band Gorillaz; and South Korean indie rock band Guckkasten. www.fujirock-eng.com

Vivid Sydney 2017

May 26 – June 17, 2017 Sydney, Australia

The world's largest festival of light, music, and ideas, Vivid Sydney promotes creative art and innovative lighting technology in the vibrant capital of New South Wales each year. Having attracted 2.31 million visitors to the harbourfront last year, this 23-night spectacular lightshow features works by artists from 23 countries and musical performances at the Sydney Opera House, while inspiring forward-thinking minds from across the globe to exchange their unique perspectives. www.vividsydney.com

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

Roskilde Festival June 24 – July 1, 2017 Roskilde, Denmark

Established as a small-scale gathering created by two high school students, the Roskilde Festival, held on the Viking island of Zealand, Denmark, is now Europe’s largest cultural event and one which draws more than 100,000 attendees annually. This year the event’s eight stages will bring in more than 150 acts, including hip-hop legend Nas; Swedish metalheads Cult of Luna; and rapper Freddie Gibbs, while festival-goers can enjoy camping, skating, swimming in the lake, and watching the infamous tradition, the annual naked run. www.roskilde-festival.dk

Noisily Festival

July 6 – 9, 2017 Leicester, United Kingdom An underground electronic music event held in the rural area of Leicester, United Kingdom, Noisily Festival welcomed music talents such as German artist Dominik Eulberg; English techno musician Tom Real; and UK-based electronic dance music band System 7 to perform across three stages. This extravaganza also includes wellness activities suited for health-conscious visitors seeking to calm their minds and souls. www.noisilyfestival.com

Boryeong Mud Festival July 21 – 30, 2017 Boryeong, South Korea

Stepping into its 20th year, the Boryeong Mud Festival invites over a million travellers from around the globe to appreciate the benefits of the mineral-rich mud at Daecheon Beach in Boryeong, South Korea. Soak in a giant mud bath, mud body painting, dance the afternoon away with looping pop and hip-hop music; and stay for the final weekend, which includes fireworks and a closing night party. www.mudfestival.or.kr

Inti Raymi Jun 24, 2017 Cusco, Peru

A 600-year-old Inca Empire celebration, Inti Raymi, Quechua for 'Sun Festival', honours the sun god at the Sacsayhuaman ruins in Cusco, Peru every year on June 24. Marking the winter solstice, which is also the Inca New Year, through a series of traditional ceremonies, processions and dances, the festival includes the sacrifice of a pair of llamas to give thanks to Mother Earth and to hope for a good harvest.

There are also pre- and post-event open-air concerts and dance parades. www.intiraymiperu.com JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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NEWS

Winter World

Jeju Family Escape Set within an integrated resort comprising a theme park, gaming facilities, and a variety of high-end retail outlets, Somerset Jeju Shinhwa World has opened as Ascott’s first property on South Korea’s Jeju Island. Located close to the island’s tourist attractions, such as the O’Sulloc Tea Museum, Halla Mountain, and Jeju Aerospace Museum, the new 344-unit hotel is designed for travelling families, offering expansive three-bedroom units with thoughtfully-furnished interiors. Each unit has a well-equipped kitchen, separate living and dining areas, a balcony, a wine chiller, a washing machine and dishwasher, and a centralised home automation system. Other facilities include a clubhouse with lobby lounge, fully-equipped gymnasium and sauna, a restaurant offering international cuisine, and a children’s playroom. In addition, the Ascott Lifestyle programme offers cultural, gastronomical, community and wellness activities that suit travellers of all persuasions. www.the-ascott.com

Luxury cruise line Cunard has unveiled its January to May 2019 programme, Oceans of Discovery, which will include a return to Alaska for the first time in 20 years, and a total of 21 new ports of call. During the January to May cruise season, Cunard's iconic flagship Queen Mary 2, and sister ships Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria, will call at 109 ports in 49 different countries, including Boracay in the Philippines, Akita in Japan, and Goa in India. Queen Elizabeth will undertake her firstever Alaskan voyage to cross the North Pacific and Gulf of Alaska en route to Vancouver, offering cruisers a unique and inspiring experience with breath-taking Alpine views. In addition, Queen Victoria will operate the line’s only full circumnavigation in 2019; the World Voyage by Cunard is a 107-night experience that cruises from South America and Asia to South Africa, before returning to Southampton. www.cunard.com

New Island Lodge in Tasmania Friends and families can now take a holiday to Tasmania’s Picnic Island, one of Australia’s few private freehold islands, with the unveiling of a newly-constructed copper clad lodge that is now available for private rentals for up to ten guests. Designed by Tasmanian architect John Latham, this unique island retreat features a modern beachfront shack design, with bedroom flooring made with California redwood planks from a 98-yearold tree, and stunning views of The Hazards, a granite mountain range. Only a short 10-minute boat trip from the picturesque Coles Bay township, the island’s guests can also take a tour around the Freycinet Peninsula by local water taxi. In addition to its famous little penguin colony, the island is also popular with a range of wildlife, including sea eagles, shearwaters, dolphins, seals and whales. Activities available in the area range from sailing and fishing to kayaking and quad biking. www.picnicisland.com.au

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NEWS

New Nagoya Playground Families with children aged two to 12 should pay a visit to Nagoya’s newly opened outdoor theme park, Legoland Japan. Comprising interactive and adventurous activities for the whole family, including exciting rides and Lego model creations, the new park features seven themed areas offering over 40 attractions and shows, as well as a construction made with 17 million blocks and 10,000 Lego models. While offering kids exciting first-time experiences, including a ride on a dragon and exploring ancient ruins, the theme park also boasts Miniland, which showcases the scenery and cityscapes of 10 famous destinations across Japan, including Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and Nagoya, all recreated in miniture using 10 million Lego blocks. www.legoland.jp

Cruising the East Following the company’s increased capacity across Asia in recent years, with Costa Serena deployed in 2015 and Costa Fortuna in 2016, Costa Cruises has welcomed its innovatively-restyled Costa neoRomantica as the fifth Costa ship based in Asia.

Until October 2017, Costa neoRomantica, which accommodates up to 1,800 guests, will depart from Fukuoka on itineraries ranging from four-night to seven-nights, cruising to fascinating destinations like Sokcho and Busan in Korea; Vladivostok in Russia; and Hakodate, Sakata, Maizuru and Sakaiminato in Japan. The US$115 million renovation has seen the ship revamped with contemporary interior designs from a collaboration between Swedish architectural firm Tillberg Design and London-based hotel and spa company Syntax. www.costaasia.com

New Heritage Sites in China The forested area of Hubei Shennongjia in central China and Zuojiang Huashan Rock Art Cultural Landscape in the southwest of the country have been recently added to Unesco’s World Heritage list. Hubei Shennongjia, consisting of Shennongding and Badong county to the west and Laojunshan to the east, is one of three centres of biodiversity in China, and its large tracts of primary forest are home to many rare and endangered animal species, including the Chinese giant salamander, golden snub-nosed monkey, clouded leopard and Asian black bear. The Zuojiang Huashan Rock Art Cultural Landscape comprises karst, riverine and tableland formations, and includes 38 rock art sites dating from 1,800 to 2,500-years. These cliff paintings depict the life and rituals of the ancient Luoyue people, once prevalent across southern China, while the site is the only remaining evidence of this bronze drum culture remaining today. http:// whc.unesco.org JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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NEWS

Gems of Japan Genting Dream, the first ship of Dream Cruises, has begun her maiden voyage to Okinawa, Japan, from her dual homeports in Hong Kong and Nansha, marking the official debut of the ship’s Island Gems of Japan summer itinerary. The six-day, five-night cruise sails to the islands in southern Japan, offering views of scenic and cultural wonders, experienced from the comfort of a luxurious integrated resort at sea. The trip first brings travellers to Naha, the capital of Okinawa, home to a selection of modern restaurants and shops offering local specialty products; and the Unesco World heritage site of Shuri-jō, a restored palace that was once the home of Ryūkyū royalty. From there the ship journeys to Miyakojima, said to be the most beautiful island in Japan, with white sand beaches and clear, cobalt waters famed for their “50 shades of blue”. Guests cruising with Genting Dream this summer will also be able to experience the underwater world in a state-of-the-art onboard submersible. www.dreamcruiseline.com

Winos and Rhinos

Cruising the East Norwegian Cruise Line has unveiled the line’s first purposebuilt ship for the Chinese market, Norwegian Joy, which is set to debut in China this summer. At 167,725-gross-tons and accommodating 3,883 guests, the new cruise ship is designed to provide First Class at Sea experiences, with a multitude of VIP accommodations, including The Haven by Norwegian, the line's ship-within-a-ship luxury suite complex, which boasts an all-new Haven Observation Lounge featuring panoramic views. A new accommodation category, The Concierge level, will provide premium guests with an exclusive Concierge Observation Lounge and larger balcony staterooms. Innovative activities onboard the ship will include a first-at-sea two-level competitive racetrack located on the top deck, an open-air laser tag course, thrilling simulator rides, Oculus virtual reality technology, and interactive video walls at the Galaxy Pavilion. www.ncl.com

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Savour some of the world’s finest wines while adventuring at Safari West, an authentic African lodge located in Sonoma County, California, which has recently rolled out a new “Royal Winos and Rhinos Safari Experience”. Combining an Africanstyled adventure with wine pairing, the new programme combines a wildlife experience with some of the finest vintages paired with artisan treats. Guests will be escorted by safari guide on an exploration of the lodge’s 162-hectare wildlife preserve, inhabited by hundreds of safari animals, and will learn about the wildlife species, their ancestral homelands, and the problems they face in the modern world. Guests will then stop at the Watusi Overlook to enjoy a carefully-curated tasting of traditional Sonoma County wines, making for a perfect day of family fun with an exceptional culinary twist. www.safariwest.com

NEWS

Shoreside Serenity Check into Cape and Kantary Hotels’ newest luxurious five-star property, Cape Kudu Hotel, Koh Yao Noi. Cradled on the small island of Koh Yao Noi in the centre of Phang Nga Bay, near Phuket, the speedboat-accessible resort is surrounded by lush rainforest and sapphire blue waters, creating a sense of comfort and serenity complementing the getaway’s intimate atmosphere, spacious accommodation, and exceptional service. There are luxurious rooms across three categories, Deluxe, Pool Villa, and Robinson Crusoe Suite, while facilities including a fine dining restaurant serving modern Thai and international cuisines; an organic garden that supplies the resort’s kitchens; a five-star spa; and an infinity pool. Activities available on the island include snorkelling, kayaking, classic car rides, and batik painting. www. capekuduhotel.com

Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort

Oceania Oasis

Nestled on the secluded beaches of Momi Bay on the western coast of Viti Levu, Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay has opened as the brand’s first hotel in the country. This South Pacific island paradise, surrounded by 20 hectares of man-made lagoons, has a Fijian-inspired design with a modern twist, and offers 114 Bure Villas, 22 of which are overwater villas with sun decks.

The 136 Deluxe Rooms, which boasts dynamic interiors reflecting the vibrant local culture, can be made interconnected, perfect for families and friends. The Health Club offers a range of on-site activities, such as kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and tennis, while adventureseekers can take a short boat ride to Cloud Break Surf to enjoy a zip-lining experience, the Sebeto hot springs, and mineral-rich mud baths. Located a 45-minute drive from Nadi International Airport, the resort is within easy reach of attractions like Nadi Town and Denarau Island. www.fijimarriott.com

The brand’s first property in Europe, the Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort, formerly Tivoli Victoria Algarve Resort, has debuted on southern Portugal’s Algarve coast.

Nestled amongst orange groves and undulating wetlands, the resort’s 280 newly-upgraded guestrooms overlook picturesque gardens, swimming pools and the fairways of the Arnold Palmer-designed Oceânico Golf Course. Each boast soft design touches reflecting the natural woods and fibres of the region. Guests staying at the Presidential Suite will enjoy a terrace with a private dining area, a new jacuzzi and a sundeck. Wellness-conscious travellers can indulge in a traditional Thai massage at the newly-renovated Anantara Spa; while palate explorers can savour the freshest seafood at the new lunchtime restaurant, Ria. There will also be a new Adventurers Crèche and an Adventurers Kids Club fullyequipped for cooking classroom, an open air cinema, and an adventure safaris. http://vilamoura.anantara.com/

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AIRLINES

DREAMS IN THE SKIES American Airlines is making moves to become North America’s leading carrier, and the new 787 Dreamliner is one of the most vital new additions in the carrier’s toolkit, discovers

Nick Walton on a recent flight.

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Check-in/The Lounge As I had checked in for my flight at my origin, Hong Kong, I made my way from my arrival gate directly to American Airlines’ Admiral’s Club in Terminal D. This spacious and well-used lounge features well-appointed shower suites, as well as a novel (and appreciated) guacamole stand, a sit-up cocktail bar, ample lounge seating overlooking the apron, and if you’re lucky enough to be flying in the airline’s First Class cabin (only available on selected long-haul routes) a signature dining room.

Boarding We boarded the two-class (although it also has the airline’s Main Cabin economy option) 787-8 at gate D33, entering the first of the aircraft’s two business class cabins, which boasts 20 of the 28 business class seats. Like many new business class products, the cabin initially looked very cramped, especially with the overhead bins open, but once you take a seat you realise there is an intelligent design at work. The cabin quickly filled up for the nine-hour overnight flight to Santiago, Chile.

AIRLINES The Seat This was my first time flying American Airlines’ newest generation business class product aboard the 787-8 and only my second ever time flying backwards – the staggered 1-2-1 configuration means some seats face forward and some backwards, although in a far more comfortable style than the fiasco you’ll find on British Airways’ A380.

My seat, 6L on the port side, facing the rear of the aircraft, is clearly well constructed and thoughtfully designed; there’s direct aisle access (which is infinitely better than the side-by-side window seats on United’s 787s), a large personal monitor, wide arm rests on both sides, space for shoes under the ottoman-styled extension, slots for tablets or magazines, a pair of AC power points, as well as two USB ports, and two beautifully-large windows with electric ‘blinds’.

To one side is a pair of American Airlines’ signature Bose headphones, a bottle of water, and a chic amenity kit by Cole Haan.

Two touchscreen panels, one with buttons, control the seat position and inflight entertainment system.

There is a tradeoff – seats facing forward have arm rests which can be lowered, thus increasing the seat’s 21-inch width to 26-inches, but backward facing seats have more work surfaces. In addition, for couples travelling together, on rear-facing seats the privacy screen between centre seats is permanently up, while on the forwardfacing seats it’s permanently down, so make your seat choice accordingly.

After dinner, I converted my seat into a heavenly bed, complete with warm duvet and a pair of pillows. Although the seat is a little shorter and narrower at the feet and shoulders than its brethren on the 777, it still all-but-guarantees a great sleep.

Dining The dinner service on this south-bound flight began with a well-made gin and tonic

and a bowl of warm nuts (although it did take quite a while to arrive as you’ll read below). As I had snacked in the Admiral’s Club before the flight and wanted to get as much sleep as possible, I decided to just enjoy the dinner entrée, a beautifully balanced dish of cold chicken with grilled five spiced pineapple and watermelon that was accompanied by a loose-leaf salad with spicy sesame vinaigrette, and the cheese plate, served with crackers and a glass of port.

Service As the business class cabin filled up crew offered sparkling wine and dinner menus. Unfortunately, after takeoff the cabin attendant handling our side of the plane advised that because crew had not taken orders on the ground, the popular Express Option would not be available but she said she would try to get meals out as quickly as possible.

Many passengers chose instead not to have a late dinner or the early breakfast offered. Despite the hiccups, dinner service was quick and efficient and friendly enough when it did start.

As with most overnight flights as soon as the lights were dimmed crew retreated to the galley, which was fine with me as I wanted to make the most of my seatbed. I slept much of the flight and arrived in South America beautifully rested.

Summary Latin and South America is American Airlines’ turf and the world-class 787 business class product is a sure way to maintain loyalty across the airline’s extensive network.

American Airlines business class Dallas/Fort Worth – Santiago return from US$6,070. www.aa.com JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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SAN FRANCISCO

SALT & STRAW

The much-adored ice cream emporium Salt & Straw is opening its first shops in the city this spring on Fillmore Street and in Hayes Valley. The San Francisco scoop spots will feature a menu of flavours created just for the city, and part of the profits will benefit local schools. Yes, they will still be bringing their much-beloved flavours down from Portland, too. http://saltandstraw.com

A DOZEN

GREAT DISHES San Francisco's restaurant scene is always among the hottest in the US, and 2017 is no exception. It can be a lot for even locals to keep up. Here are a few delicious places worth experiencing this year.

ATWATER TAVERN

Specialising in "classic" San Francisco cuisine driven by seasonality and sustainability, ATwater Tavern offers American fare such as fried and seared calamari, cioppino and 100 percent grass fed tri-tip off the Santa Maria Grill. Opened in May 2016, the restaurant is the ideal spot for date night, the perfect cap to a vacation, happy-hour patio bites or to celebrate a special occasion. In the growing Mission Bay neighbourhood overlooking AT&T Park, ATwater Tavern won't be a secret much longer. www.atwatertavern.com

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SAN FRANCISCO

CHINA LIVE

Chinatown is getting a huge new destination in 2017 from a team of partners, including George Chen, called China Live. The complex will clock in at more than 30,000sqft. It will house a market, retail and the lively all-day Oolong Café on the ground floor and a craft cocktail bar, lounge and elegant restaurant. www.chinalivesf.com

FINN TOWN TAVERN

IN SITU

It's not everywhere you can find an awardwinning chef running a restaurant in a museum, but not every museum is SFMOMA which re-opened in 2016 after a major expansion. Created by three-Michelin-starred chef Corey Lee, In Situ's concept upends the traditional fine dining experience by “curating” benchmark dishes by over 80 chef-colleagues worldwide, including René Redzepi (Noma), Alice Waters (Chez Panisse), Thomas Keller (The French Laundry), Hajime Yoneda (HAJIME), Virgilio Martínez (Central), Martin Picard (Au Pied de Cochon), and Olivier Roellinger (Les Maisons de Bricourt), among others. Think of it as a culinary journey across time zones. http://insitu.sfmoma.org/

Described as a “tavern with a twist,” Top Chef alum Ryan Scott's highly anticipated Finn Town opened in December 2016.

Culinary tourists craving an “only in San Francisco” dining and drinking experience will discover a menu where the food is unpretentious and the drinks, described as “strong and satisfying," include a few named after individuals who once lived or worked here, including the Call of the Wild, named for author Jack London, and the Milkman, which honours the legacy of Harvey Milk. www.finntownsf.com

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SAN FRANCISCO

WAXMAN'S

Opened in Ghirardelli Square in Fisherman's Wharf in March 2016, James Beard Awardwinning chef Jonathan Waxaman's newest namesake plays on the Bay Area's seasonality and homegrown ingredients in simply prepared Californian and Italian-inspired dishes. The menu offers ingredient-driven pastas, wood roasted farm stand vegetables, meats and fish and fresh salads. www.waxmanssfo.com

BARCHA

Barcha is a Mediterranean bistro with a Parisian flair, serving healthy, fresh and satisfying dishes with Turkish, Tunisian and Spanish influences.

Opened in November 2015, it is still a hot spot.

The focus is on mezze, which means a lot of small plates. Signatures are the chicken croquettes, lamb meatballs, grilled duck kefta, chickpea falafel, shakshuka and fire-roasted eggplant. www.barcha-sf.com

TWO PROJECTS

BY ERIK SUN

Los Angeles-based food personality Erik Sun has a few projects lined up in San Francisco's SoMa. Arsenal, at 715 Brannan St, opened in March and features two restaurants in one address. One is a 20-seat noodle bar with all house-made noodles (one preview pic shows a bowl of spicy beef noodle soup with aged sirloin, braised back ribs, and prime rib-eye), while the grill side features the world's most exclusive beef in a Yakiniku-style grill at your table style dining. The Hunted, opening in late summer, will take inspiration from Sun's experience on feasting in the outdoors. Sun is a hunter, spearfisher and forager, as well as a partner and sometime chef at Bestia in Los Angeles.

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SAN FRANCISCO

RT ROTISSERIE

The team behind San Francisco's beloved Rich Table has bought a casual and approachable rotisserie chicken restaurant to Hayes Valley. The menu is inspired by the comforting meals that husbandand-wife team Evan and Sarah used to refuel with after ski trips: rotisserie chicken, warming soups, California-inspired salads, oysters and hearty sandwiches.

HITACHINO

International chef Noriyuki Sugie has been collaborating with Japan's Kiuchi Brewery — which brews Hitachino Nest — for the past eight years, and will be opening a craft beer bar with them. Hitachino beers will be served on tap from kegs and there will be some exclusive San Francisco brews. Whether guests want snacks or a full meal, an izakaya-like menu will offer a range of options. www.hitachinosf.com/

BABU JI ALBA RAY

From the minds behind Popsons, one of San Francisco's most drool-inducing burgers, comes their newest concept, a Cajun restaurant. There are classics like boudin balls with pickled peppers and creole mustard, frog legs sauce piquant, shrimp and grits, and crawfish boils when in season.

Even the bar has a Cajun beat with N'awlins-style cocktails like the Sazeracs.

Jessi and Jennifer Singh, the team behind the widely popular Babu Ji in New York City, bring their creative and fun approach to Indian dining to San Francisco's Mission District, where the duo originally met. The food at Babu Ji, which opened in November 2016, is simple yet remarkable as it's made from high-quality ingredients and offered in a creatively driven and regularly changing menu that spans Indian street food, cross-regional curries and tandoori specialties. www.babujisf.com For more info go to www.sftravel.com JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

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SANYA

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SANYA

A Tropical

Escape Sanya, located on the southwest coast of Hainan island, the “Hawaii of China”, is a nature lovers’ paradise, offering a variety of outdoor adventures amidst the island’s tropical forests and on its white sandy beaches, discovers Isabelle Lui.

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SANYA

Drawing tens of millions of visitors – over 53 million in 2015 alone – from around the world, Hainan Island is especially popular with travellers fleeing the winter months. With its tropical climate, natural beauty, and burgeoning tourism, the island’s southern city, Sanya, has something for every travelling family.

uninterrupted views of the sea and, during the evening, beautiful sunsets, revealing a sky painted with warm colours. While the bay has seen a swath of new luxury resorts open, the beautiful coastline remains open to visitors and is a popular wedding photography hotspot.

Along the six-kilometre cycling route, you will cycle among traditional sand tombs used by the Hui people, an ethnic group that escaped to the island more than thirteen centuries ago.

They then stayed close together as a small community in villages which still exist today.

Fresh young coconuts are sold on the sides of the road; and families seeking a summer escape can find a perch on the thatched beach benches which line the trail.

Indigenous Communities Learn more about Hainan’s ethnic residents at The Li and Miao Minority Village, a unique cultural attraction surrounded by betel nut trees, where visitors can learn more about the multi-ethnic culture of the island’s indigenous people. Watch as elders create authentic local art and learn about the diminishing tradition of face-tattooing, traditional attire, architecture, and the roles of men and women in Li and Miao society, before watching the Miao perform a “fire and knife” show. During the tour, you might bump into one or two alpacas as they take an afternoon walk with staff at the rainforest.

Hike and Trek Boasting an abundance of rainforest experiences, the hiking trails of the island’s south are a must do for active travellers. Yanoda Rainforest features a series of increasingly difficult water challenges testing travellers’ bravery and perseverance as they climb through dense, lush jungle. Challenges include getting across a three-metre deep pool by walking on a string of vehicle tyres; crossing suspension bridges hung in the air; and climbing through a waterfall on an iron chain. Visitors who are not prepared to get wet can opt for a side track that follows the same path but is outside the water zone. Normally it takes two hours to walk the trail and three to four hours to complete the tasks; time well spent as this rainforest route offers the best of the area’s lush vegetation and natural landscapes.

Coastal Cycling With an expansive beachfront locale, Sanya comprises five major bays, including Sanya Bay, Dadonghai, Haitang Bay, Yazhou Bay, and Xiangshuiwan. Haitang Bay offers an easy-to-ride cycling trail stretching from Clearwater Bay to Begonia Bay, along a captivating beach with

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Inside the site’s galleries and tents are displays

SANYA

No. 1 Market, which houses dozens of stalls selling a variety of inexpensive, fresh produce and seafood, from sea urchin, squid and hele crab, to vegetables, dried seafood and spices.

Surrounded by a host of streetside restaurants that do the cooking for customers bringing in their own seafood, and hawkers selling traditional street food such as fried peanuts and sweet potatoes, the market is packed with locals and travellers alike who are keen to expand their food experience.

Into the South China Sea

of ancient artisanal pieces, such as blankets crafted for the Chinese emperors using cotton from a tree species found only in Sanya. You’ll also learn that, centuries ago, both men and women wore dresses, so their apparel were similar in cutting and style.

Explore the Food Scene Sanya’s culinary offerings also dominate its culture, and contribute to the surging tourism. The four famous dishes, Wenchang Chicken, Jiaji Duck, Dongshan Mutton, and Hele Crab, each has a tie with the region’s cultural background and development. Wenchang Chicken, named after the city where it was first introduced, is a local specialty created with organic home-fed chicken, and was thought to be a dish that would help women conceive a male child. Well-cooked but tender, the chicken is usually served “white-cut”, to be dipped into a sauce made with chopped ginger and spring onion.

Travellers looking to pick their own seafood can head to Sanya

If you have a bit more time in the afternoon, get on a short boat trip that takes you from Sanya River out to the Phoenix Island in Sanya Harbour and back. During the cruise you’ll see some of the island’s oldest fishing boats and yachts floating in the harbour. It’s the perfect outing for captivating sunsets.

One of the largest diving destinations in China, Sanya offers various water sports options to be enjoyed in warm and clear waters all year round. Yalong Bay, Dadonghai, Xiaodonghai, Wushizhou Island and West Island are all popular destinations for water sports-loving visitors, while Yalong Bay and Xiaodonghai’s colourful corals will lead scuba divers to a series of encounters with the likes of glittering actinia and clown fish. Surfing, sailing, and speed-boating are also available, offering families a choice of high-energy activities to add to their itineraries.

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CAPE TOWN

CAPE OF GOOD LIVING

With lovely warm summers, sundrenched beaches and a spectacular harbour, Cape Town attracts a great deal of holidaymakers every year. Merging luxurious comfort with aesthetic personas, these hidden boutique hotels are great bases from which to explore Africa’s most beautiful city. By

Crystal Leung.

GRAND DADDY

Housed in a century-old heritage building on bustling Long Street, Grand Daddy boasts 24 rooms with local touches, two signature suites and seven unique Airstream trailers. We love The Sugar Daddy Suite, which features a Juliet balcony, a spacious open-plan lounge, and a travertine marble bathroom, but for a more intriguing experience, opt for one of the individually-designed rooftop trailers, each of which captures a different aspect of South Africa.

Leave time for a classic flick at the Pink Flamingo Rooftop Cinema, before sating your appetite at Thirty Ate, which serves a range of burgers and gourmet sandwiches. 38 Long St, Cape Town City Centre; +27 21 424 7247; http:// granddaddy.co.za 22

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CAPE TOWN

COMPASS HOUSE

With only eight elegant guest rooms marrying comfort with style, Compass House is the jewel in the crown of wind-free Bantry Bay. With hardwood flooring throughout, all rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows, plasma TVs and Linn audio systems. For the ultimate indulgence, book ahead for The Suite, fitted with a super kingsized bed with 100 percent cotton linens, and a spacious marble bathroom with deep soak bathtub, walk-in shower and Bvlgari amenities. Leave time to swim a few laps in the 20-metre infinity pool, wreathed by lemon, kumquat and orange trees, followed by a relaxing massage at the intimate spa. 154 Kloof Road, Bantry Bay; +27 21 430 3330; www.compasshouse.co.za

POD

Perched on beautiful Camps Bay, POD is a five-star boutique hotel with 17 modern and luxuriouslyappointed rooms, each of which feature king-sized beds, 40-inch LED TVs, Nespresso machines and complimentary minibars. We recommend the decadent Deluxe Suite, which opens onto a private balcony with breathtaking beach views, or a Luxury Room with Plunge Pool, ideal for private sun worshipping. This sexy hideaway also has an elegant lounge and chic cocktail bar as well as a gym with cardio and weight training equipment. 3 Argyle St, Camps Bay; +27 21 438 8550; www.pod.com

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HOTEL REVIEW

ONE oF THE ISLAND’S MoST RoMANTIC CoASTAL RESoRTS, TWINPALMS PHUKET IN THAILAND oFFERS PASSIoNATE CoUPLES AN INTIMATE SPACE IN WHICH THEY CAN ENJoY EACH oTHER’S CoMPANY.

BY ISAbELLE LUI

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hat’s more relaxing than spending the summer days on white sandy beaches and jumping into a sun-warmed ocean with your better half? Taking advantage of its prime locale, the tropical-themed Twinpalms Phuket, located on the island’s popular western coast, provides the perfect escape for couples looking to indulge in the ultimate beachfront offerings.

The resort features 97 luxurious residences, suites and rooms, 21 of which are unique apartments designed to offer guests more privacy and indulgence with generous living space and private pools. Guests staying in a Palm Room on the first floor will enjoy direct access to the 1,600sqm tree-lined swimming pool through the terrace doors; while all of the resorts’ spacious rooms feature a king-sized or super king-sized bed, accentuated by modern, darkhued interiors with tropical touches.

The luxurious 233sqm one-bedroom Penthouse has separate living and dining areas with wooden touches, a bathroom with bathtub, a fine wine cellar, and a Cuban cigar humidor. The unit’s double-height ceiling in the living room adds to the sense of spaciousness, and the private rooftop pool, which is several steps above the ground, allows guests to enjoy swimming without the interruption of other visitors. Although lacking a private pool, the suites, ranging from 102sqm to 164sqm, are all blessed with garden and pool views.

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HOTEL REVIEW

Dedicated to health-conscious travellers, the gym is a fully-equipped spot for guests to re-energise their body after a long day out. If you prefer a more relaxing, pampering experience, the Sun Spa Esthederm offers a range of body and facial treatments, many of which are designed to soothe sun-exposed skin. These include the Sun Treatments By Esthederm, which prepares skin for sun exposure and nurture skin afterwards; while the Sun Spa Tailored Full Day Tanning Programmes allow customers the chance to attain a desired skin tone at the poolside Sun Spa sala.

The indulgent experience continues at the resort’s dining venue. The Oriental Spoon Grill and Bar serves breakfast buffet and an enticing Thai or Oriental and Western fusion dinner menu, complemented by innovative cocktails from an open-plan martini bar. During the day, guests can sink into one of the beach chairs next to the pool and embrace the sunlight, or spoil their palate at the Pool Bar, which serves a variety of salads, hot dishes and desserts, as well as a selection of homemade healthy drinks and classic cocktails.

If you’re looking to have a toe-in-the-sand culinary journey, the nearby HQ Beach Lounge and the Catch Beach Club, both accessible via the hotel’s complimentary shuttle buses, ensure visitors enjoy the best that the destination has to offer. These popular venues see Phuket’s most exciting nightlife hotspot host travellers from across the entire coastal resort area, bringing in local and visiting revellers to dance the night

away under the starry sky, with music by in-house or pop-up DJs. A trip to Phuket isn’t complete without a seafood meal. A must for any seafood fanatic, Palm Seaside restaurant, lounge and bar offers the freshest seafood dinner and authentic Thai cuisine served within a cozy, lounge-style dining area, with outdoor and indoor tables streaming through the restaurant’s water-themed setting, while the tented bar leads to an openair terrace, which offers lounges and low tables facing the luminous bar, and is within touching distance from the Andaman waters.

106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Road, Choeng Thale, thalang, Phuket 83110, Thailand; www.twinpalms-phuket.com

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SPAIN

Go to La Gomera

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SPAIN

THERE'S NO BETTER WAY TO DISCOVER A CULTURE THAN THROUGH ITS FOOD. IN THE CANARY ISLANDS, MODERN CUISINE TAKES ITS ROOTS FROM TRADITIONAL SPANISH RECIPES COMBINED WITH AFRICAN AND LATIN AMERICAN INFLUENCES. THE RESULTING GASTRONOMY IS NATURAL AND RUSTIC YET WARM AND INVITING. AND IN LA GOMERA, THE SECOND SMALLEST CANARY, DISHES SIZZLE WITH UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS THAT ARE WORTH KNOWING AND, ABOVE ALL, TASTING.

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imple, hearty and authentic. La Gomera's culinary foundation mirrors the way of life of those who call it home. The cuisine is based around the island's locally sourced products, including honey, bread, cheese, fish and wine. To this day, many small businesses make their own products within La Gomera's petite area of 378sqkm, reflecting the island's long-established agricultural background.

Seafood, cheese, mojos, bread, wine and palm honey represent the local delights of La Gomera's cuisine.

Others come in the form of stews, sauces and soups like Potaje de berros. This wholesome watercress soup is served on wooden plates made from Juniper or Holly.

Papas arrugada is another local favourite. Potatoes are boiled in salt water and served with either a green coriander sauce called mojo verde or a spicy red chili version known as mojo rojo. It's the perfect accompaniment to fresh parrotfish or ropa vieja, a popular pea stew with various types of meat, thyme and wine.

Speaking of wine, connoisseurs will be happy to know La Gomera produces excellent vintages. Small vineyards sprinkle the island's volcanic terrain, where most of the work is still done by hand. The most distinctive wines of La Gomera are full-bodied whites with a varied bouquet of aromas. Most of these flagship whites are made from forastera blanca grapes. Forastera grapes account for 90 percent of the island's vines, but they aren't grown anywhere else in the world.

La Gomera's red wines are mostly made from Listan Negro grapes typical of the Canary Islands or blended in smaller amounts using Tintilla, Tempranillo, Negro Molle and other varieties. Noted for their high tannins, these wines burst with aromas of dark red fruit and berry flavours before finishing dry and balanced. Since 2003, La Gomera's wines are protected by the Guarantee of Origin, "Vinos de La Gomera".

Cheese reigns among the most valued staples of Gomeran cuisine. Queso blanco is a smoked goat's cheese varying between mild and strong flavours, depending on the stage of maturity. In other cases, cheese makes up the main ingredient for delicacies such as curd cakes and almogrote, which is traditionally made by mixing mature hard cheese, garlic, pepper, chilies, tomatoes and olive oil until it reaches the consistency of a chunky dip. Foodies take note: this pungent paste is a culinary must if you want to experience a true taste of La Gomera.

Bread from La Gomera has a widely recognised reputation for its quality craftsmanship. Some even argue that a pastry or cake from La Gomera is an essential part of a visit to the island. They range from butter ring shaped-pastry, Bilana Cake, and Morones to Vichi doughnuts, cookies and gofio.

Gofio was a staple of the Canary Islanders before the Europeans arrived. It's a flour obtained from cereal grain, such as millet, wheat and barley. The gofio from La Gomera is especially sought after due to its strong flavour and different blends of cereals available.

Palm honey, unquestionably the queen of Gomeran gastronomy, reveals the close bond between the inhabitants of La Gomera and their environment. Its delicate production process starts with extracting the sap, or guarapo, from palm trees. The sap is then boiled and thickened into a dark syrup whose flavour is ideal for making desserts, cocktails and sweet dishes. Palm honey also boasts excellent therapeutic properties. Many islanders use it for healing wounds, burns, ulcers and sore throats. This process has created a genuine culture intertwined with palm honey that reaches far beyond cuisine.

The gastronomy of La Gomera proves simplicity doesn't have to be boring. Instead, Spanish and African cultures mix with La Gomera's natural charm, presenting an opportunity to discover the island paradise through its Canarian flavours.

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FOODIE TOURS

EXPLORING THE WINE TRADITIONS

OF HUNGARY AND CROATIA

Specialist wine tour company SmoothRed has moved into Eastern Europe with the launch of five new breaks that uncork the lesser-known yet impressive wines of Hungary and Croatia.

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FOODIE TOURS

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hree new tours have been created in Hungary, focusing on the Etyek, Tokaj and Eger winegrowing areas, in addition to two new tours in Croatia, with two based in Dubrovnik or Split, with trips to the vineyards of Dignač and Kastela respectively. Self-drive 4x4 safaris amid the vines and helicopter transfers from city to countryside are among the luxurious encounters awaiting eastbound gourmonds.

Hungarian Collection: Budapest and Tokaj The

five-day

luxury

break features private wine tours in Etyek, Tokaj and Eger, visiting leading vineyards, including Kovács Nimród and Disznókő, plus the thrilling option of private helicopter transfers between Budapest and Tokaj. There's a chance to dine at the fashionable one-Michelinstar restaurant Borkonyha Winekitchen in Budapest as well as nights at the Aria Hotel Budapest, a five-star luxury hotel and spa recently named number one in TripAdvisor's Top 25 Hotels in the World, and Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa, the only five-star resort in Tokaj.

An off-road vineyard safari is the highlight of the four-day Tokaj Wine Experience, an exploration of Tokaj wines, based at Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa. Guests on this action-packed break will get behind the wheel of a 4x4 to drive among the vines at a family-run winery, as well as enjoy private tours and tastings at Patricius and Szepsy, with an English-speaking guide.

The terraces of Buda Castle provide a superb setting for the Budapest Wine

Festival, a celebration of the nation's wines. Guests on this four-day break receive a pass to the festival for the duration of their stay to enable thorough exploration of the 200-plus wineries exhibiting their wares. They'll also be whisked off to the vineyards of Etyek to try the crisp white wines, and Eger to savour the fruity flavours of the famous Bull's Blood.

A boat tour of the Elafiti islands and private visits to wineries in the Dignač are among the memorable moments in the four-day Dubrovnik Wine-Tasting Experience, the perfect introduction to Croatian wines. Guests will discover the dark, full-bodied reds created from the Plavac Mali grape, planted in the hillside vineyards, with tastings at three wineries, pairing different vintages with local cheeses, meats and even oysters.

There'll also be time to explore the city and relax by the Med at the sumptuous five-star Hotel Dubrovnik Palace.

The wine varieties of Dalmatia, home of the Zinfandel grape, is the focus of the four-day Split Wine-Tasting Experience itinerary to the historic city of Split and nearby Kastela vineyards.

Guests will enjoy private tastings at the prestigious estates cultivating Pošip and Plavac Mali, and learn how the powerful, robust Zinfandel grape found its way from Eastern Europe to sunny California.

The packed agenda also includes a tour of the ancient city, calling by Diocletian's Palace, and a cookery course amid the olive groves of the island of Brač, but leaves enough time to discover why everyone raves about this coastline's beaches. www.smoothred.co.uk

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READER’S REPORT

A SUPERB SOJOURN

Sandra Elliot ventures to remote Mount Rondon in Papua New Guinea in search of a particularly seductive species of Bird of Paradise.

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hilling mist filters through the remote rainforest in Papua New Guinea. Joseph, our guide, beckons us up a slippery path, his thong sandals seeming to float on the sodden track. Rainbows sparkle in the fog where he stops. “Highland mornings cool,” he tells us, rubbing his hands over his gray fleece jacket. His English is tinged with Pidgin, or Tok Pisin, an official language of his country. A white baseball cap shades his weathered, ebony face. “We start late. De Superb an early riser.”

Our visit to Papua New Guinea was part of a National Geographic Trip Around the World by Private Jet. In a country with limited facilities, travellers choose one of five locations to visit.

Along with several other couples, my husband and I selected the interior highlands. Our group left the jet in the capital, Port Moresby, and flew to Mt. Hagen, a village with an airport adequate for small commercial planes.

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Rondon Ridge Lodge is a thirty-minute drive.

Built on the side of Mount Rondon, more than 2,000 metres above sea level, the lodge has a reputation within the birding community for the different Bird of Paradise species seen there. Unusual colours and plumage are the hallmarks of the Bird of Paradise.

But we’re on a quest to see a very special species of Bird of Paradise, the Superb, a rare creature that lives in the ancient forests surrounding Mount Rondon. The previous evening on YouTube, we watched a Superb attract a mate. More like an exotic dancer than a bird the size and colour of a crow, he spread his wings and cavorted for a shy brown female.

Two black appendages crossed the chest of his feathery costume with brilliant blue-green lines and dots shaped like lips and eyes. An animated happy face, he danced to impress.

“Dis he favourite spot. You hear him?” Joseph motions to a tree. Squint-eyed, we strain to track the bird’s chirps and leaf-shrouded movements. Condensation rolls off dense forest vegetation onto our heads and into our

READER’S REPORT

eyes. Sighting a black bird in backlit foliage isn’t easy. We hear the Superb, but we don’t see him.

Sensing our frustration, Joseph suggests we continue our hike. The trail crosses a boundary fence with a posted sign. We need permission from the village to enter. Fortunately, Joseph has authority to allow us in. On the far side of the fence, we gaze at the lush Wehgi Valley and Mount Hagen, an eroded volcano.

Along the way, Joseph points out scattered tufts of moss, the work of a bowerbird, but not the one he wants to show us. We struggle up a sunlightdappled path with thick roots and puddles, to a small, circular clearing outlined in moss and dried grass⎯the bowerbird’s nest.

“De courtship arena. He dance and sing for de ladies here.” Joseph makes sure we note the patterns the bird has made with white and gray moss, the artful work of a single beak and pair of claws.

Water gurgles from a waterfall. Retention ponds and drainage canals offer moisture in dry periods and carry away excess in rainy seasons. “In de mountain, many orchid grow wild.” Joseph gestures upward. “I want dem safe from lumber truck. Here we have 133 different kind of orchid. When I no work, I search de mountain for more.” On a grander scale, Joseph’s efforts resemble the bowerbird’s work⎯a labour of love to maintain the flora and wildfowl of his homeland.

Bags packed our last morning, we hurry out to find the Superb.

Joseph directs us to slide down a muddy embankment on gigantic leaves. We follow his lead and stipple our slacks with mud. At the bottom, we study a sunlit branch where he thinks the bird may dance. As if on cue, a quasi-crow steps into the light and casts open his wings to reveal an iridescent turquoise smile.

The tantalising song we’d heard the previous day reverberates full voice through the forest. A small brown bird alights and the dance grows serious: the smile across the male’s chest changes from turquoise to lavender.

Truly Superb.

The overhead sun is baking hot. We shed our jackets and return down the trail. Joseph invites us to cool off in his orchid garden, a tree-filled expanse enclosed by a thatched fence with a gabled entrance.

“Construction destroy de forest where wild orchid grow. Here dey live.” Using botanical and local plant names, Joseph points out plants with unusual colours and shapes. Pink bells dangle like dainty earrings beside lines of blossoming yellow balls.

Fans, pinchers, and spider orchids decorate the trees in colorful arrays.

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