Explorer October 2014

OCTOBER 2014

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Market MADNESS In Bangkok ARABIAN DREAMING In Abu Dhabi

BEHIND THE MAHOGANY The World’s Best Hotel Bars

THE GARDEN OF GARDENS

Beijing’s Summer Palace

English Christmas Markets | Trump SoHo New York | Korean Air

Publisher’s Letter

W

elcome to another exciting issue of Explorer, the environmentallyfriendly bi-monthly digital travel magazine for true world wanderers. In this issue we jet our way around the world, searching for the most fascinating destinations on offer. In the thriving desert city of Abu Dhabi, we spend 48 hours exploring the ancient markets and authentic Bedouin culture, and of course, some of the more contemporary attractions. Then we look for the top tipples in the world’s best hotel bars, from Cape Town to Mumbai. In Beijing, we explore the Garden of Gardens, the beautiful Summer Palace, and learn some of its rich history, before diving into the colours and flavours of Bangkok’s best markets, from floating vegetable stands to eclectic vintage extravaganzas.

We will also give you the low-down on the best English Christmas markets, check-in at New York’s super sexy Trump SoHo hotel, and check out Korean Air’s business class with our usual eye on the sky review. Wherever you’re travelling, and whatever adventures you’re looking for, I’m sure our magazine not only gives you some great travel ideas, but does so with the least impact possible.

Safe travels.

David Leung Publisher

Villa Sungai THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN A secret to be discovered, hidden deep in the heart of the authentic Bali. Floating above a river, beneath a towering canopy of rainforest, Sungai has everything you expect from the finest hotels..but with exclusivity. Here time stands still..... pavilions perfumed with tuberoses, a magical eighteen metre horizon pool spilling into the valley, palms and frangipanis, khaki and whitewash, and sleek and sexy white on white.

It’s hard to believe that this piece of paradise is only a short drive from the bustle of Legian and Seminyak.

Welcome to Villa Sungai.

T: +61(0)410324535

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www.bali-villasungai.com

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www.baliluxuryvillacollection.com

WORLD IN PICS Armenia’s historic Tatev Monastery.

Credit: Secret Compass

In the

Dawn arrives in Prague

Viewfinder

Clear skies above Doha, one of the Gulf’s fastest emerging destinations.

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A Bajau, or ‘sea gypsy,’ child in Labuan Bajo, Indonesia.

A woman takes in the views from a cave within Taiwan’s Taroko Gorge.

A local fisherman collects crabs on a beach off the coast of Xiamen, China’s first port open to international trade.

From China’s industrial coastline, to the pristine waters off Australia, here are the pictures that inspire us this season.

Dawn over Rio de Janerio, host of the 2016 Olympic Games.

Credit: Trafalgar Tours Snorkelling with a napoleon wrasse on the Great Barrier Reef.

Credit: Queensland Tourism & Events

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WHAT S HAPPENING

Munich Christmas Market November 27 – December 24,2014 Marienplatz, Munich, Germany

Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival October 30 – November 2, 2014 New Central Harbourfront, Hong Kong

The Munich Christmas Market dates back to the 14th century, and transforms the quaint Marienplatz square into a merry hub of festivities. The month-long celebrations attract three million people every year, who flock to the market to sample Bavarian delicacies, sweet Gluehwein mulled wine, and marvel at the glittering lights of over 2,500 candles. Art workshops, live carols, and booths of colourful artisanal gifts add to the joyous atmosphere, and ensure that Munich really becomes a winter wonderland. www.christmasmarket-munich.de

Revel with 140,000 other foodies against Hong Kong’s famed skyline to celebrate the four-day long feast that is the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival. With over 300 booths offering the finest selection of wines and gourmet foods, attendees will be spoilt for choice, while live music and entertainment keep up a cheery mood. Polish your culinary experience with a wine tasting class or a thematically paired set meal, and appreciate a glass or two of the latest tipples from vineyards around the world. www.discoverhongkong.com

The Hermanus Whale Festival October 3 – 6, 2014 Hermanus, South Africa

Rhythm and Vines December 29, 2014 – January 1, 2015 Waiohika Estate, Gisborne, New Zealand

Celebrating its 23rd anniversary is the Hermanus Whale Festival, the only eco-arts festival in South Africa to gather international focus. Known for being the best place to go whale-sighting, the seaside town plays host to over 100,000 enthusiasts every year, who flock to watch the seasonal migration. Not only will there be informative talks on conservation practices and animal rights, but great food stalls and concerts will also entertain, making Hermanus the perfect family holiday site. www.whalefestival.co.za

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Rhythm and Vines is a must for any modern music lover wanting to party to the hottest tunes and beats. The international music festival features local talent as well as top names in the industry, such as Bastille, Netsky Live, and Zane Lowe, amongst many others. With environmental campaigns steering crowds towards more sustainable practices, and outdoor camping facilities on offer, Rhythm and Vines encourages great music and a great atmosphere to welcome in the New Year. www.rhythmandvines.co.nz

Dubai Rugby Sevens December 4 – 6, 2014 Dubai, UAE

Contemporary Istanbul Art Fair November 13 – 16, 2014 Istanbul, Turkey

Let your hair down for a truly international bash at the 44th Emirates Dubai Rugby Sevens. Not only does the three-day event feature world-class sporting talent and camaraderie, but the stands turn into an outdoor disco as the crowd of 50,000 raves to the hottest tunes in fancy dress. Don’t miss the Rugby Rock concert in the Village for some topclass entertainment, while the professional crèche service entertains the kids with bouncy castles and face painting activities. www.dubairugby7s.com

Set in the heart of the vibrant metropolis, the Contemporary Istanbul Art Fair highlights the city’s dynamic and evergrowing art scene. The multiple galleries at each year’s event exhibit both international and local artwork in digital and traditional mediums, but the New Horizons section will put special focus on contemporary art from China to invite cultural diversity and style. www.contemporaryistanbul.com

Pushkar Camel Fair October 26 – November 4, 2014 Pushkar, India

Summernats January 1 – 4, 2015 Exhibition Park, Canberra, Australia

Eleven thousand camels and 400,000 people take part in India’s largest tribal gathering to celebrate the Pushkar Camel Fair. Coinciding with the auspicious Kartik Purnima full moon, the fair is a blur of activity, with the women showcasing ethnic artwork and traditional fashions, while the men engage in camel races and rural wrestling matches. The evening activities are based around a campfire, where festival-goers can listen to the delicate raags of desert musicians, and watch the colourful costumes of gypsy dancers brighten the starlit Thar Desert. www.pushkarcamelfair.com

Testosterone levels go through the roof in anticipation of Canberra’s annual Street Machine Summernats Car Festival.

Founded by Chic Henry in 1988, the festival has since seen a massive increase in popularity and today hosts over 85,000 people to celebrate all things car related. With a range of competitions such as the best burnout battle, best precision driving demo, and best street machine contests gearing up towards the Street Machine Summernats Championships, festival-goers are in for a four-day horsepower fuelled party. www.summernats.com.au www.explorer-magazine.com 7

NEWS

BIKING THROUGH THE PAST Celebrate a historic event with VBT Bicycling and Walking Tours’ new Berlin to Dresden: Hidden Gems of Eastern Germany cycling expedition, honouring the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. From May 2015, this seven-day bike tour will cruise through the historically significant city of Potsdam, the UNESCO biosphere reserve of Spreewald, and past the Karst mountains in the Saxon Switzerland National Park, giving travellers a first-hand experience of the past. Bikers will also get to sample local culture on breaks off the bike. Visiting family-run pickling business to make sauerkraut; feasting on local cuisine and regional brews; and sailing a kahn boat through Spreewald’s canals are just some of the cultural highlights to be expected.

Bilingual experts will guide the tour, and each day will end at a luxury boutique hotel to allow travellers the chance to rest their feet. www.vbt.com/tours/berlin-dresden

EXOTIC ADVENTURES Seize the day and take on a new adventure with Secret Compass’ three new expeditions to Armenia, Kyrgyzstan, and Egypt. Between August and October 2015, the journeys will challenge travellers, and immerse them in these countries’ rich cultures. Hike through Armenia’s southern highlands, crossing Mount Khustrup and Mount Armazad en route to the ancient monastery of Tatev; explore Kyrgyzstan by mountain bike, traversing the Talas mountain range on the world’s first ever commercially-run journey of its type; and trek the length of Egypt’s southern Sinai peninsula with nothing but a goat-skin water holder, a Bedouin blanket, and a camel, for a classic dessert experience. Spend up to 15 days in this richly cultural wilderness and let loose your sense of adventure. www.secretcompass.com

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BEE PAMPERED Taking a break from the kids is near impossible, but Breeze Spa, part of Thailand’s Onyx Hospitality Group, is giving parents a little slice of heaven. Using organic honey from Plan BEE, the company’s latest CSR programme, two new spa treatments have been introduced at all Breeze Spa locations across the country. Indulge in the Almond Milk Honey Body Scrub or the Oat Honey Cookie Body Mask for 45 minutes of guilt-free bliss, perfect for stressed-out parents. The body scrub combines pure, natural honey with milk to cleanse and moisturise the skin, while the body mask blends oatmeal, honey, brown sugar, safflower oil, and yoghurt to revive dry, sun-damaged skin. The sweet-smelling treatments are a soothing indulgence, and parents can also feel good knowing they promotion local biodiversity by protecting the endangered Asian honeybee population. www.breeze-spa.com

CRUISING IN STYLE Escape the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and find tranquillity aboard the Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok’s Horizon Cruise. Whether alone or in a group, cruise down the magical Chao Phraya River at dusk and soak in the traditional Thai charm and upbeat spirit from afar, all whilst indulging in an international buffet dinner courtesy of acclaimed chefs from the Shangri-La kitchen. Cruises run daily at 7:30pm, so grab a seat on the open-air deck or in the spacious air-conditioned cabin, and catch glimpses of Bangkok’s cultural landmarks over the two-hour journey, including the 82-metre Khmer-style pagoda of the Temple of Dawn, the Grand Palace – home to the Emerald Buddha – and the Santa Cruz Church. Entertain up to 150 VIP guests in private with a special cocktail and dining menu, and watch the city unfold on a private tour of Bangkok’s rich history. www.shangri-la.com/bangkok/shangrila/dining/restaurants/horizon-cruise www.explorer-magazine.com 9

NEWS

GETAWAY IN THE TREES

Mention holidaying in Africa and most people’s thoughts turn straight to exotic safaris. Go your own way with an exclusive treehouse getaway at Asilia’s Rubondo Island Camp in Tanzania, which overlooks magnificent Lake Victoria, the source of the Nile River. A first for this eco-friendly haven, the treehouse is a romantic retreat in the treetops in which guests can relax and try to spot native wildlife like elephants, giraffes, chimpanzees, and sitatungas roaming free. Despite the lack of electricity, guests will revel in luxury with hot showers, double beds, and antique sinks, while enjoying stunning views of Africa’s majestic untamed nature.

Away from the treehouse, try your hand at canoeing, trekking, or even talking to resident chimpanzee researchers to get the full experience and enjoy all this African paradise has to offer. www.rubondo.asiliaafrica.com

FILM GARB GOES OFF SET If you’ve always wanted to see those fabulous movie costumes up close, now’s your chance.

London’s Victoria & Albert Museum and the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences have collaborated on a glitzy multimedia showcase called Hollywood Costume. Displayed in the historic Wilshire May Company Building in Los Angeles – the future home of the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures - the exhibition will run through March 2, 2015.

Visitors will explore the idea of costume design as a key role in cinema through more than 150 outfits from iconic movies through the years.

Highlights of the exhibition include designs by Ruth E. Carter for The Hunger Games; Sandy Powell for The Wolf of Wall Street; Catherine Martin for The Great Gatsby; and the original ruby red slippers from the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz. www.oscars.org 10 www.explorer-magazine.com

SAILING THE SEVEN SEAS Whether you’re looking for underwater exploration, culture, history, or just a chance to practice your photography skills, Linblad Expeditions has the answer. In partnership with National Geographic, Linblad Expeditions has announced six new journeys aboard the National Geographic Orion.

From September 2015, these new itineraries will cater to just 102 lucky guests each time. Cruise from Bali to Palau on an exotic Indonesian journey; traverse the Pacific Equator to the Solomon Islands; go on to Fiji to observe rare and lush wildlife; sail towards the Cook Islands to discover Polynesian culture and heritage; snorkel over the pristine reefs of the South Pacific as you meander towards Tahiti; and finally, dock at Easter Island to learn the ancient legends of the Pacific.

Adventurous travellers will also have the chance to learn the subtleties of adventure photography from National Geographic-certified photography instructors. www.expeditions.com

TRICK OR TREAT For kids – and young at heart adults – the month of October means only one thing – Halloween. Break out the costumes and candy bags and get ready to experience the fright of your life as Las Vegas’ beloved Halloween attraction, the Fight Dome haunted attraction, makes its Asian debut in Hong Kong. Until November 2, The Peak Galleria will be transformed into a series of eerie, mist-filled halls to make up the Fright Dome Home Kong. The 1,300sqm attraction will feature all manner of scary creatures such as Leatherface from The Texas Chainsaw Massacre, and a killer clown over the two fright-filled haunted mansions. With multimedia light shows by Hollywood special effects genius Gary J. Tunnicliffe, lurking actors ready to scream ‘boo!’, terrifying games, and a horror photo booth on hand to capture the whole spectrum of emotions, Fright Dome Hong Kong is guaranteed to be a scream. www.frightdomehongkong.com www.explorer-magazine.com 11

BANGKOK

Market Madness The best way to explore Bangkok is through its bustling open air markets, discovers

Nick Walton.

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ne of the best aspects of a visit to the Thai capital has to be its abundance of colourful and often eclectic markets. Here, commerce continues as it has since the days of King Rama II, and a visit to the city’s many marketplaces is a chance to delve into the Thai persona, it’s dynamic culture, and its culinary heritage.

When it comes to Bangkok markets, virtually everyone knows the Chatuchak Weekend Markets, Thailand’s largest and a treasure trove for shoppers and amateur photographers. Known simply as JJ after its Thai name Jatujak, Chatuchak covers an area of 27 acres – about the same as 30 soccer pitches – and is home to a whopping 15,000 stalls.

The Chatuchak Weekend Market is always busy, with approximately 200,000 visitors each weekend, including plenty of tourists. Split into a total of 27 section, there is a little something for everyone, including household items, silks, plants and flowers, furniture, clothing, religious artifacts, collectables, handicrafts, and art supplies. Weaving your way between the covered stalls you’ll find everything from framed pictures of the Thai king, to pet accessories, fat goldfish in tanks, fresh fruit stands playing retro 80s music,

table lights made from Beer Chang bottles, Thai kick boxing shorts, jars of pandan paste, and tiny CD stores specialising in traditional folk music.

The beauty is you can barter down the price – a big draw card for tourists looking to get as much bang for their baht as possible. In section 27 there are openair food stalls cooking up a storm so the best bet is to arrive early via tuk tuk, the Kamphaengphet MRT station or the Mo Chit BTS Sytrain, before the heat of the day turns the markets into a sauna, and have lunch when you’re shopped out.

Thai cuisine is well-known the world over, and its complex ingredients of spices, pastes, and herbs can all be found at the Khlong Toei Market, Bangkok’s largest fresh produce and spice market.

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BANGKOK

restaurant chefs come to buy ingredients, jostling for space with housewives and grannies in pajamas for the best chilies, the best heads of lettuces, and the best barbequed baby chicks and steamed turtles.

In the spice aisles you’ll find minority women in brightly coloured traditional garb presiding over stalls packed with chillies – thick ones, thin ones, some harmless looking, some positively lethal.

With everything from cumin, coriander seed, tumeric, and fenugreek, a myriad colourful sacks of spices are heaped at each stall, blazing from bright yellow to terra-cotta red and grass green in the early morning sun. Here, amature cooks can find all the ingredients so important to iconic dishes like tom yum soup, including lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, fresh, plump limes, and tangy fish sauce.

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A few years back, floating markets in Bangkok were all the rage. But then, like so many great ideas, they became over touristy. Fortunately, the Taling Chan Floating Markets, which was started in 1987, has managed to retain much of its down-to-earth charm.

Only open on weekends between 8am and 4pm, it’s a visually stimulating spectacle; long boats from outlying villages, stacked with sacks of sugar cane, coconuts, and dragonfruit, pry their way between other boats stacked with buckets of fresh prawns and river fish, vying for business down the main Khlong Chak Phra canal.

In some sections you’ll find floating street stalls, with women in straw hats balancing effortlessly as they prepare snacks for diners, both on the water and on the canal banks. There are also floating food barges where you sit on the floor at tiny tables. If you prefer to eat on terra firma,

there are shaded restaurants where you can be serenaded by live Thai folk music while you snack on kanom jeeb, steamed fish dumplings, and crispy stripes of deep fried tofu, washed down with local Beer Chang. When you’re done, return to the city on the number 79 or 83 bus back to the city.

For something a little more contemporary, you can’t go past the Talat Rot Fai Railways Markets, also known as the Railway Markets because it takes place on a piece of land owned by the railways.

One of the city’s newest markets and only open on weekends, this market really only gets going after sun down.

Talat Rot Fai is best known for its vintage – sometimes kitsch – collectables and yet is relatively tourist free. Here you’ll find everything from old Vespa scooters in need of some TLC and dated pin ball machines, to old cameras and battered

cocktail shakers. You can pick up great deals on antique furniture if you’re planning on staying in Bangkok a while, as well as plenty of other odds and ends, some genuine, some recreations.

There is a lack of pretension in the air; just people of today’s generation inquisitive about the past (or trying to recreate it), and the hipster vibe makes it a great spot for amateur photographers or visitors to the city looking for a cool outdoor setting.

Make time for a cocktail, served from one of the converted VW Combi van bars, or grab an ice cold beer from one of the impromptu stands and drink it sitting in one of the abandoned carriages which line the market. Get to the market through Kamphaengphet Station or by tuk tuk, whose drivers seem more aware of the new markets than the cabbies.

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24 HOURS

Arabian Dreaming Both a historic and contemporary gateway between east and west, Abu Dhabi is a city which has grown from the desert into a world metropolis. But visitors to this fascinating destination will quickly discover the city hasn’t forgotten its ancient origins.

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Day 1 9am

Start your day off at one of Abu Dhabi’s newest hotels. The Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara, which opened in June, is a 15-minute drive from Abu Dhabi International Airport and 10 minutes from downtown. Boasting 222 guest rooms with views across a protected mangrove reserve, this unique urban resort combines traditional Arabic hospitality and architecture with contemporary touches, including an expansive infinity swimming pool, a modern gym, and the largest hammam in the UAE. Fuel up at all-day restaurant Ingredients before heading out to explore the city.

11am

Before Abu Dhabi’s oil wealth lead to the rows of gleaming tower blocks and mega-

malls, the region was home to nomadic Bedouin tribes. The unique culture of the desert people remains close to the hearts of Emirati. Learn about Bedouin culture at the city’s Heritage Village, which is run by the Emirates Heritage Club and includes a reconstruction of a traditional oasis villa, complete with camel rides, falconry displays, and a museum dedicated to the history of the Bedouin tribes which came to rule one of the world’s wealthiest cities.

You’ll see traditional artisans at work, have the chance to peek inside a goat’s hair tent, and even learn to make Arabic coffee.

1pm

Time for a spot of lunch, and one of the best venues for the mid-day meal is on Yas Island, home to Ferrari World and the Yas Marina Formula 1 Circuit. At the Viceroy Yas Abu Dhabi, Atayeb blends

the textures and traditions of Arabian cuisine in chic, sophisticated surrounds.

Sample authentic Arabic and Medinspired ingredients, as well as hearty stews, tajines, and couscous dishes from Tunisia, Lebanon, and Syria. cooked over custom-made charcoal stoves and grills.

3pm

Work off your meal at the nearby Ferrari World, a unique theme park dedicated to the Italian marque and perfect for children of all ages. The largest indoor amusement park in the world at 200,000sqm, Ferrari World is home to a host of attractions, to the Formula Rossa, the world’s fasted roller-coaster at 240km/hr, through to Bell’Italia, an exhibition of recreated Italian architectural icons - through which guests can drive a Ferrari California Spyder - G-Force, a spaceshot tower which launches riders over 62 meters up www.explorer-magazine.com 17

24 HOURS

and out of the building, and the Scuderia Challenge, a state-of-the-art Ferrari racing simulator. Adrenalin junkies will especially love this unique park; in addition to the Formula Rossa coaster, Ferrari World boasts the Fiorano GT Challenge, a dual launched roller coaster, and the V12, a flume ride through the heart of a Ferrari 599 engine. There are also attractions for smaller children, including the Junior GT Ferarri driving school, complete with child-sized sports cars.

5pm

For something a little more refined, you can’t go past a walk through the Al Meena Souk, also known as the Iranian Souk.

Famed for its vibrant colours and haggling stallholders, this is a brilliant spot for picking up high-quality hand-made rugs, traditional jewellery, tea, and spices from across the Arabian Peninsula, and even hand-beaten brass bowls and tea sets.

Located beside the main port, the souk, or market, is a great way to delve into the Arabic culture, as you sip strong black coffee from thimble-like cups, indulge in home-made Turkish delight, and barter over one-off pieces from local artisans.

For a more contemporary setting, the city’s Central Souk was reopened in 2011 to attract a new clientele. With a vaulted ceiling and lattice timber interiors, the new-look markets are more like a conventional mall, but one that still focuses on the traditional wares of Arabia.

Would-be chefs will love the spice stores with their sacks of colourful spices and herbs, while you’ll also find high-quality jewellery and antiques and even perfumes from the Gulf’s most acclaimed houses.

8pm

Finish your evening in style with captivating views and stunning cuisine at Pearls & Caviar, a modern, eclectic

Mediterranean restaurant at the ShangriLa Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri. Get a table with views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, sip a champagne cocktail from the Pearls Bar upstairs, and run the flavour gamut through the Mediterranean’s culinary foodscape. Later, dance the night away with the resident DJ.

Day 2 8am

Start your day off before the heat peaks, with a round of golf at one of the best new courses in the Gulf. The Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is the Gulf’s first beachfront course, and is located on Saadiyat Island, 18 www.explorer-magazine.com

site of some of the city’s most ambitious developments, including the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi and a campus of the University of New York. The Gary Player-designed course plays through the dunes of a stunning stretch of uninterrupted coastline, with just enough bunkers and sand traps to keep the game challenging, while wide fairways and a relatively flat terrain make the course a pleasure to play on.

12pm

Once you’ve worked up an appetite on the links, it’s time to head down the road to the Monte Carlo Beach Club, the first

extension of the iconic Monaco venue, for lunch. Located right on a pristine strip of deserted sand, this chic beach club offers fitness and spa facilities, as well as casual all-day dining and elegant alfresco cocktail bars for sunset tipples. Take a dip in the cabana-wreathed main infinity pool, or cool off in the pristine ocean just steps away, before lunching at the French Riviera-inspired Le Deck restaurant.

2pm

Delve into the desert with a stop at the Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital to get a true sense of the importance of falconry in traditional Bedouin society.

The world’s largest falcon hospital, the centre offers tours that include a talk on different falcon species from the Gulf and falcon training, as well as a behindthe-scenes look in the wards where these beautiful – and expensive - birds of prey are checked by experienced veterinarians and groomed between hunting seasons.

You’ll have a chance to hold the birds and even test their skills in flight.

4pm

Two hours from Abu Dhabi is the largest of the recently opened Desert Islands, a

chain of sandy isles off the coast of the UAE. A former royal retreat popular with Abu Dhabi’s founding father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, that was turned into a unique conservation park, Sir Bani Yas Island is home to cheetahs, hyenas, and rare Arabian oryx. The Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara operates a unique wilderness lodge nestled between the ocean and the salt ridges of the island’s centre, and offers 4x4 and horseback tours of the 45,000-acre Arabian Safari Park.

Alternatively, learn to ride with experienced equestrian trainers, hike the salt ridges of the park in search of hyena families, or explore the island’s many underwater treasures with dive courses and excursions offered at the new watersports centre.

7pm

Finish your Arabian adventure with an intimate dinner at the resort’s Samak Seafood Grill. With alfresco dining that makes the most of the resort’s secluded location and clear night skies, the restaurant serves up the zesty flavours of both the Gulf and the Mediterranean, cooked on an open grill and matched with an extensive wine list.

Travel Facts Getting There

Qantas has regular flights between Abu Dhabi and major Australian cities including Sydney and Melbourne; 13 13 13; www.qantas.com Anantara can organise airport transfers to Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa or car or seaplane transfers to the Desert Islands Resort & Spa.

When to Go

Abu Dhabi has a sub-tropical, arid climate and enjoys sunny, clear days year round. The best time to visit is during the winter months from November to April, when the temperature averages 24°C.

Where to Stay

The Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara is centrally located for city exploration; +971 2 656 1000, http://abu-dhabi.anantara.com/ Desert Islands Resort & Spa offers a unique Arabic wilderness experience; +971 2 801 5400, http://desertislands.anantara.com

Where to Eat

Atayeb, Viceroy Yas Abu Dhabi; Yas Island, +971 2 656 0000,www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com Pearls & Caviar, Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, +971 2 509 8888, www.shangri-la.com Le Deck, Monte Carlo Beach Club, +971 2 656 3500, www.montecarlobeachclub.ae

Further Information

Abu Dhabi Tourism, +61 2 826 85533, http://tcaabudhabi.ae

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CHRISTMAS MARKETS

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FESTIVE

Retail Therapy Over the festive period, England transforms into a magical winter wonderland with a variety of Christmas markets across the country.

Explorer rounds up some of our favourite festive shopping experiences for UK bound travellers.

An Authentic European Experience in Manchester (14 November – 21 December) Considered to be one of the biggest in Europe, Manchester sparkles over the festive season with markets spanning eight picturesque city centre locations. There is an excellent selection of gifts on offer from fine amber jewellery and handcrafted leather bags to Dutch flower-bulbs and Spanish chorizo.

Don’t miss the iconic giant Father Christmas perched on top of the town hall – perfect for a seasonal selfie! www.manchester.gov.uk/ info/500241/christmas_markets Yodel in Leeds (14 November – 20 December) Once again, Leeds is offering a host of festive activities in Millennium Square. The ice-rink remains a firm favourite amongst both adults and children, as well as the magical carousel ride transporting visitors back to their childhood. The highlight of the market returns in the form of the Oktoberfest inspired German Beer Tent. Join ‘Mundy and Friends’ to enjoy some traditional yodelling and a sing-a-long to all the classics. Expect copious mulled wine and dancing on tables – this is not one to be missed! www. visitleeds.co.uk/Leeds-Christkindelmarkt-atMillennium-Square

Winter Wonderland Returns to London (21 November 2014 - 4 January 2015) A true family favourite, Winter Wonderland returns to London’s Hyde Park this November with big top shows, the iconic Giant Observation Wheel, and of course its famous Christmas market. The Wonderland has already attracted over 14 million visitors, with the UK’s largest open-air ice rink and the Magical Ice Kingdom to delight both young and old. Enjoy hot cider, mulled wine, and farmhouse foods alongside a spot of rustic revelry in the shape of an outdoor fire pit in the heart of the park. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com A Canine Christmas in Norwich (from 29 November) Why pick just one Christmas event when Norwich has so much on offer? Visitors really are spoilt for choice with the Assembly House Christmas Fair, which will feature a host of seasonal stalls. Or for something a little quirkier, why not try the Dragon’s Hall Medieval market with costumed stallholders and period musicians? There’s even something for dogs! Back by popular demand, Santa’s Grotto for dogs is being held in the forum once again, so dog owners can treat their pooches to a photo with its favourite festive character. www.theforumnorwich. co.uk/events/view/norwich-global-villagechristmas-market/05-12-2014

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CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Festive Fun in Bath (27 November – 14 December) Each year, the cobbled streets and square between the stunning Bath Abbey and the internationally-renowned Roman Baths become a Christmas shopper’s paradise.

More than 150 traditional wooden chalets line the streets of Bath, each one offering bespoke gifts, decorations, and edible goodies. Peruse locally-produced items and sip on hot mulled wine accompanied by the sounds of Christmas carols. www. bathchristmasmarket.co.uk A Dickensian Christmas in Gloucester (20-23 November) Gloucester’s impressive historic docks provide the magnificent backdrop for a very Victorian Christmas experience.

Explore an authentic Victorian market selling high quality food and drink as well as hand-made festive gifts. Enjoy choirs, brass bands, and don’t forget to keep an eye out for a host of colourful and largerthan-life Dickensian characters who bring the market to life including, street urchins, Fagin-style gang masters, flower sellers, beggars, and thieves, all under the watchful eye of the faithful ‘peeler’. www.gloucesterquays.co.uk/events/ victorian-christmas-market-2014 A Medieval Christmas in Ludlow (29 and 30 November) Get ready for two days of non-stop merriment and tomfoolery at the Ludlow medieval Christmas fayre, held in the ruins of Ludlow’s ancient castle. Expect chivalrous knights in full armour, dancing damsels, fire-breathing jesters, and 22 www.explorer-magazine.com

impressive bird of prey displays. Also, get your hands on one-of-a-kind knight helmets and fine silver earrings; they make a great gift for loved ones. www. ludlowmedievalchristmas.co.uk

New and Improved Winter Wonderland in Nottingham (19 November – 24 December) The Nottingham Winter Wonderland is back this year and will be bigger and better than ever before. This significantly expanded Christmas market will include

20 new bespoke Tudor-style trading cabins offering an even wider range of products, including unique trader made items for the most discerning of shoppers. A truly unique Helter Skelter bar will also be created for the occasion allowing shoppers to enjoy a warming mulled wine or spiced cider whilst the little ones test out the ride. www.nottinghamwinterwonderland.co.uk

England’s Biggest German Market in Birmingham (13 November – 22 December) Inspired by its twin city, Frankfurt, Birmingham’s Christmas market is the largest German-style Christmas market outside Germany. Showcasing some of the city’s finest craftsmen, these markets should be firmly at the top of anyone’s Christmas list. Birmingham’s markets comprise over 180 glowing wooden chalets sprawled across Victoria Square, Centenary Square, Chamberlain Square,

and New Street, each one packed with treats from glistening handmade baubles to traditional wooden toys. The edible treats are equally irresistible as the aroma of mulled wine, rich gingerbread, and marzipan fill the air. The craft market opens on 15 November. www. birmingham.gov.uk/frankfurtmarket For more info visit www.visitengland. com/en/Christmas-markets

WHERE TO STAY

SEX

In The City

If you’re looking to splurge on your next trip to the Big Apple, be sure to look downtown, discovers Nick Walton.

N

ew York is a funny city when it comes to hotels.

There are three distinct styles: the huge, iconic edifices, decked out in gold and steeped in history; the cool boutique properties that boast just a handful of rooms and are hidden away in emerging enclaves; and the non-distinct cookie cutter ‘others’, the houses of slumber that are a necessity rather than an experience.

Then there is the Trump SoHo, quite possibly the coolest hotel to open in the Big Apple in a decade.

With a name like Trump attached to it (the property is managed by Trump Hotels Collection but not owned by the group), you might expect a downtown facsimile of the brand’s flagship in Midtown, a high-brow, old school, luxurious landmark in the making. But the first (and only) AAA Five Diamond hotel to open in SoHo is a distinct departure from the group’s other properties; the brain child of Trump children Donald Jr, Ivanka, and Eric, the 46-floor, 391-room Trump SoHo is a creature all of its own, with the feel of a boutique hotel, the amenities of a flagship, plenty of celeb appeal, and all

the cool sophistication of its surrounding fashion mecca.

My first impression of the Trump is on an early morning in spring as I gingerly pass through a gaggle of paparazzi camped out at the entrance. Located on the corner of Spring and Varick on SoHo’s western fringe, the Trump was an immediate success with celebrities, with the likes of Stephen Baldwin, Olivia Wilde, Jessica Alba, Will Smith, and William Fichtner all spotted inside, not to mention countless international models and athletes visiting while in the Big Apple. Photographers, www.explorer-magazine.com 23

WHERE TO STAY

convoys of tinted Escalades, and shadewearing security are regular sights outside the hotel, but inside the intimate lobby, celebrities and mere mortals alike can feel right at home.

Here, amidst sexy yet understated interiors by the Rockwell Group, which used oxidised bronze, walnut screens, and highly-finished leather to create a warm, calming space beneath a doubleheight conservatory-styled atrium by Handel Architects, Old World service meets contemporary expectations. It’s a beautiful amuse bouche to a guest’s hotel experience as they make their way up to their condo-styled guest rooms, in my case one of 132 opulent one-bedroom suites.

Intelligently designed and beautifullyappointed, my suite features an expansive work space with high-speed WiFi, a kitchenette with Nespresso coffee machine and wet bar, a separate guest bathroom, and custom furnishings by 24 www.explorer-magazine.com

Fendi Casa, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows with staggering cityscape views that are unlikely to be cluttered for decades, thanks to prudent investment in neighbouring air rights by the building’s owners. My utterly addictive Trump Home bed features a luxurious leather headboard, Bellino bedding, a Serta mattress and a comprehensive pillow menu, and is complemented by twin 42-inch LCD televisions, and a Control 4 Suite System controller connected to the air-conditioning, window blinds, lights, and televisions. The marble and Turkish Marmara stone-lined bathroom comes with a stand alone rain shower, sexy copper-toned taps and a deep-soak tub with views across the Hudson River.

I quickly start making up excuses why I should never leave my suite.

If you’re looking to splurge during your next Big Apple sojourn, the hotel’s guest rooms range from 63sqm to 185sqm, and include two dedicated spa suites, two two-bedroom SoHo suites, eight two-

bedroom penthouse suites and a lavish two-bedroom duplex penthouse with its own expansive terrace, ideal for those private Boston Legal moments. I sneak into the Penthouse for a peak and gaze up Manhattan to the towers of Midtown, the sun setting behind New Jersey to the west, the lights already twinkling over in Brooklyn. Naturally if you’re staying in one of the penthouse suites, you’ll also enjoy a host of additional amenities, from daily in-room breakfast to private airport transfers in a Bentley or Maybach.

The Trump also has a touch of urban resort in its blood, evident on the pool deck, where a seasonal swimming pool is complemented by an elegant juice bar concept and a wellness hideaway conceptualised by Ivanka Trump, based on her extensive travels to the world’s holistic centres. After a long day exploring SoHo’s boutiques and galleries on foot I delve into the Spa at Trump, located on the seventh and eighth floors. Designed

by DiGuiseppe Architects, the expansive

spa boasts nine private treatment rooms, as well as dedicated wet rooms, a modern fitness centre and access to the sunkissed terrace. With a distinctive Turkish feel, The Spa at Trump is home to the city’s first authentic luxury hammam, and an afternoon being doused with warm water while lying on heated tiles is the perfect antidote to the rat race on the streets far below.

The Trump SoHo’s understated luxury extends to the Koi SoHo restaurant, one of only five in the world, located on the lobby level. Here, a menu of classic Japanese dishes is infused with Californian imagination (the flagship is in LA). Signature dishes at this celebfavourite include Koi Crispy Rice, a nugget of sweet fried rice topped with tuna tartare; silky miso cod that would challenge Nobu’s famed dish; and a Kobe filet mignon that melts in the mouth when paired with the extensive California-heavy wine list and the resident mixologist’s cocktail suggestions. Alternatively, the juicebar adjacent to the Spa becomes Bar D’Eau with the evening, when the beautiful public ascend for cocktails on

Vodka from a New York City distributor, boxing the bottles in preparation for my flight home. Guests can also make the most of their proximity to SoHo with the Trump SoHo Shopping Card, which provides insider access and exclusive discounts at some of the neighbourhood’s top boutiques and artisans. the 557sqm terrace, with its mosaic-lined pool and full-sized Bocce court.

As you can expect, being so popular with the stars and starlets of both the big and small screen, room service has been given a real breath of fresh air; there is a special menu of 15-minute bites for those in a rush, as well as an extensive selection of breakfast sets themed on countries of

the world, and every dish is made with organic and locally-sourced ingredients.

If you do hanker to eat outside, just turn to your very own Trump Attaché, a designated in-house concierge that helps with everything from private shopping trips and after-hours museum visits to dinner reservations and champagnelaced picnics in Central Park. Mine helps me source hard-to-find bottles of Bakon

Finally, if you need some down time, the rarely used Library on the second floor is decked out with fascinating books

by TASCHEN and offers a great view of the front door, perfect for timing those paparazzi-free departures.

Trump SoHo New York; 246 Spring Street, New York, NY 10013, United States; +1 212-842-5500; www.trumphotelcollection. com/soho www.explorer-magazine.com 25

NIGHTLIFE

Behind the MAHOGANY

Once the haven of somnolent salesmen far from home and the odd adulterous couple, hotel bars have become the new battlefield, as houses of slumber compete for speakeasy status.

Nick Walton discovers some of the world’s top hotel watering holes.

La Bar Churchill La Mamounia, Marrkechrecent $120 million

So named because one of history’s most endearing figures spent considerable time painting in the gardens of La Mamounia when he retired, the Churchill Bar was one of the many spaces which has benefited from this iconic Moroccan property’s recent €120 million renovation. Dressed in red velvet, gleaming timber, subtle animal print, and rich leather, the bar has retained its elegant 1930s jazzy persona and makes for the perfect spot for a chilled glass of champagne or a smooth single malt after a long day exploring the Atlas Mountains. Avenue Bab Jdid, 40 040, Marrakeck, Morocco, Tel: +212 524 388 600, www.mamounia.com

Sugar East Hotel, Hong Kong

Located in Tai Koo Shing, Sugar offers innovative cocktails and stunning views over one of the world’s most famous harbours. Located on the 32nd floor, expect plenty of mood lighting, spinning DJs, and some of the city’s best concoctions, including Treacle, with Appleton V/X rum, maple syrup, Apple, and Angostura bitters; and the Sugar Espresso-tini, with Stoliuchnaya vodka, Galliano, dark crème de cacao, and Ristretto espresso.

232F, East, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd, Tai Koo Shing, Hong Kong Island, Tel: +852 3968 3738, www.sugar-hongkong.com

Le Bar Hotel Plaza Athénée, Paris

One of the hottest (and certainly the most expensive) bars in the City of Love, this chic Patrick Jouin-designed space is often referred to as the Ice Bar, mainly because of its massive artificial iceberg which lights up when you touch it. The bar has two personas; half is set around a long, brightly-lit counter made of curvy glass, with high Louis XV-styled bar stools and Murano glass chandeliers. The other is cosier, with big leather armchairs and hand-tufted carpets. The cocktails of manager Thierry Hernandez are inspired; the Plaza Colada Sushi features slices of pineapple dipped in Pina Colada syrup and sprinkled with dried coconut, while ladies might prefer the signature Royal Rose, champagne blended with fresh raspberries. Avenue Montaigne 25, Paris, France Tel: +33 1 53 67 66 65, www.plaza-athenee-paris.com/the-bar 26 www.explorer-magazine.com

Long Bar, Waldorf-Astoria, Shanghai On The Bund

Once an iconic meeting place for the city’s colonial power brokers, the Long Bar at the former Shanghai Club has been reinvented as part of the new Waldorf-Astoria Shanghai. Every element of the bar, from marble columns and stained glass windows to ornate wall panelling, has been carefully studied and reproduced from archival photographic records. Expect one of the city’s most diverse ranges of spirits, the original 34m bar top, premium cigars, an elegant Oyster bar, and classic WaldorfAstoria cocktails, each with a modern twist. No. 2 Zhang Shan Dong Yi Road, Huang Pu District, Shanghai China, Tel: +86 21 6322 9988, www.waldorfastoria.com

Sky Bar Lebua at State Tower, Bangkok

Asia’s City of Angels has a reputation for its impressive rooftop bars and top among them is the Sky Bar at Sirocco, the world’s highest alfresco restaurant and one of Bangkok’s sexiest spots. Designed by Design Worldwide Partnership, this lofty perch offers 270-degree views of the Chao Phraya River and the cityscape, with some of the city’s hottest cocktails, including the Mango Tickle, with fresh mango, Belvedere IX, and lavender; and a range of Alain Milliat fruit juices, complemented by live jazz performances. Lebua at State Tower, Silom Road, Bangrak, Bangkok, Thailand, Tel: +66) 2624 9555, www.lebua.com

Flair Ritz-Carlton Pudong, Shanghai

For another truly vertiginous cocktail experience, head to Flair, situated atop the new Ritz-Carlton Pudong. Located on the hotel’s 58th floor, Flair offers both innovative cocktails and Asian-inspired tapas, as well as views down to the Bund that are truly inspiring – although the minimum spend of RMB320 per person can sting. Also look out for the Roof Top Bar at the new Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, which opens in March on the 118th floor of the new ICC. Shanghai ifc, 8 Century Avenue , Shanghai, Lujiazui, Pudong 200120 China, Tel: +86 212020 1888, www.ritzcarlton.com www.explorer-magazine.com 27

NIGHTLIFE

Aer Four Seasons Mumbai

Mumbai is famous for its entertainment scene, and one look at Aer, located on the 34th floor of the Four Seasons, explains it all. With fantastic views, the city’s highest rooftop bar covers an entire floor of the hotel and features a menu of hot and cold Lebanese and Middle Eastern snacks as well as one of the city’s best champagne by-theglass lists. Look out for their exotic fruit and champagne mixes, and signature Horizon cocktail, with vodka, coconut water, and curry leaves. 114 Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai, India, Tel: +91 22 2481 8000, www. fourseasons.com

Blue Bar The Berkeley, London

One of the most regal and stylish hang outs this side of the Thames, the Blue Bar is synonymous with glamour and sophistication, where one can easily while the night away in the company of a rare single malt whiskey and the city’s beautiful. Dressed in striking Lutyens Blue by designer David Collins, the white onyx bar and black crocodile print leather floor make for a decadent fusion reminiscent of the original Berkeley of Berkeley Square, and go perfectly with the bar’s famed Ginger Cosmos. The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridg, London, Tel: +44 (0)20 7235 6000, www.the-berkeley.co.uk

Bascule Whisky, Wine & Cocktail Bar Cape Grace Hotel, Cape Town

This award-winning hotel bar, located on the city’s picturesque waterfront, is the perfect place to wind down after a long day exploring. With over 400 whiskeys on offer, as well as the best drops from the near-by Western Cape vineyards, the bar offers a cosy, homey feel. Be sure to try the Sommelier’s Choice, a selection of the bar’s top fire waters matched with chocolate, smoked salmon and blue cheese, or a tipple of their rare 50 year old Glenfiddich. West Quay Road, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa, Tel:+27 21 410 7100, www.capegrace.com 28 www.explorer-magazine.com

Bar dos Descasados Hotel Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro

Housed in the former slave quarters of this historic plantation-turned-boutique hotel, head down to the exclusive Lounge for postcard-perfect sunsets (it was recent voted the city’s most romantic bar) and cocktails laced with local cachaça, amidst interiors that include hand painted red and white tiles, exposed stone walls, and a spacious out door terrace. Call ahead for one of their teak terrace cabanas.

Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660, Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, Tel: +55 21 3380 0200, www.santateresa-hotel.com

Mixx Bar & Lounge ANA InterContnential Tokyo

One of Tokyo’s newest and most sophisticated hotel bars, Mixx offers stunning cityscape views from the 36th floor, and is divided into three spaces; a bar area with communal tables, a spacious lounge area with intimate couches nestled in private zig-zag window bays, and a Mixx Room for private celebrations. Expect play lists by Blacklist, and mouthwatering molecular cocktails, including the Mixx Mary, a basil-infused vodka concoction with tomato and vegetable juices, mozzarella foam, and chili flakes. ANA InterContinental Tokyo, 1-12-33 Akasaka Minato-Ku, Tokyo, Japan, Tel: +81 3 3505 1111, www.anaintercontinental-tokyo.jp

O2 Lounge Ritz-Carlton Moscow

Named the city’s top terrace bar by Time Out, O2 offers unsurpassed views of the Red Square and the Kremlin and one of the city’s best vodka collections, complete with dedicated vodka sommelier. Early in the evening, expect lingering house tracks and the city’s glitteratti, sitting in regal red velvet armchairs, sipping ice cold vodka, while later on, the beautiful hit the dance floor thanks to tracks played by visiting international DJs. And don’t worry about the cold; it may be a roof top bar but this is still Moscow, so you’re covered in a glass dome. Ritz Carlton Moscow, Tverskaya Street 3 , Moscow, Russia, Tel: +7 495 225 8888, www.ritzcarlton.com

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CHINA

The Garden

of Gardens

Beijing’s Summer Palace is more than just an exquisite example of imperial landscaping and architecture. The former seat of power and its surrounding gardens are living testaments to China’s past prowess, and boast a delicacy and intimacy that has stood the test of time.

I

t’s early morning in Beijing, and far from the traffic jams and skyscrapers for which the Chinese capital has become synonymous, there is a serenity and a tranquility that has prevailed for centuries. In the grounds of the Summer Palace, China’s largest and most complete royal park, the troubles of the modern world are far away. In the shortening shadows of an ornate terrace painted in bright red and green hues, a clutch of elderly women follow the rhythmic, dance like steps of tai chi to a soundtrack of scratchy Chinese opera piped in from a portable iPod dock.

Dressed in track suits against the slight chill in the air, many of the women are armed with plastic swords crafted from gold plastic in the traditional imperial style, the faux weapons dazzling in the morning sun. Others are armed with fans which they flick and flare in unison.

Combined with the regal green of the Kunming Lake beyond and the bird song which manages to drown out the horns of the city outside, the dancers make for a mesmerising sight, and one every new visitor to Beijing should experience for themselves.

The Summer Palace, or Yihe Yuan, literally translated as the Gardens of Nurtured

30 www.explorer-magazine.com

Harmony, is much more than just a former seat of power. The sprawling 2.9sqkm park, three quarters of which is water, is a time capsule around which modern Beijing swirls and eddies. Protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as an official Chinese heritage attraction, the park’s time-weathered pavilions, tranquil lakes, and rich history are a vital part of the national pre-communist identity; a masterpiece of Chinese landscape art which blooms in its own interpretation with each spring.

“There really is no place quite like the Summer Palace gardens,” says Kathy Lam, a Hong Kong-born tour guide I meet at the park’s East Palace Gate while waiting for her first group of the day – this time retirees from the Chinese city of Yangzhou. “So few cities have the depth of history that Beijing does and sometimes we take it for granted. In this park we have a living, breathing piece of that history that anyone, from locals to foreigners, can enjoy.” Her favourite corner of the expansive park is the Sea of Wisdom Temple, with its 1,100 terracotta Buddha statues, located at the summit of Longevity Hill, the centrepiece of

the gardens. “If you can get up there early enough it can be so peaceful,” says Lam. “You can really forget you’re in a city of millions.”

Like many political and religious complexes in China, the gardens of the Summer Palace have gone through their own transformations. On the hill on which the Sea of Wisdom Temple now stands, emperor Wányán Liàng of the Jin Dynasty (1122-1161CE)first built his palace, after moving the capital of his kingdom to what is now modern day Beijing. The hill was suitably named Gold Mountain, until a jar filled with treasure was reportedly found on the site and the hill was given the rather prosaic name of Jug Hill under the Yuan Dynasty. The Qianlong Emperor

of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) gave Longevity Hill its present name in honour of his mother’s 60th birthday, and so it has stayed, balancing out one end of the park from the waters of Kunming Lake at the other.

In fact, one thing that makes the Summer Palace gardens so interesting is how entwined all the buildings, temples, shrines, palaces, and gardens are.

Kunming Lake is entirely man-made, and was an extension of an existing water of body that was reshaped to look more like the iconic West Lake, located outside Hangzhou. The soil from the earthworks was used to make Longevity Hill even grander.

One of the most photographed structures in the gardens, the Long Corridor or Yi He Yuan, was said to have been built for Emperor Quianlong’s mother, the iconic Empress Dowager Cixi, so that she could view the snow and rain on the lake without

catching a chill. It was her son who had extended the waterway to make Kunming Lake, and so that his mother could enjoy his handiwork, he created the beautifully ornate 700-metre long corridor which stretches between Longevity Hill – then named Wanshou Mountain – and the lake shore. The corridor – which is lined with 8,000 paintings portraying the Empress’ favourite stories - is now popular with amateur photographers, and I watch one girl, dressed to the nines despite the early hour, patiently posing for her boyfriend as he seeks to capture her as a modern day empress.

It’s said that women have influenced the development of the Summer Palace far more than the kings who lived in its regal halls. One of the most influential characters was the formidable Empress Dowager Cixi. A former concubine to the Emperor Xianfeng, she was the mother

of his son and heir, and is believed to have heavily influenced the resulting Qing Dynasty during its 47 years in power. A powerful advocate for the gardens, she took money earmarked for the Chinese Navy to restore the gardens to their regal splendour, including the addition of an ornate 26-metre-long, double decker marble boat, located at the end of the Long Corridor. Many historians believe her devotion to the gardens and the diversion of military funds cost China the First Sino-Japanese War, which took place just six years later.

However, her devotion is evident in the park’s splendid buildings, ornate walls and intimate temples.

Many of those regal spaces pockmark Longevity Hill, including the Cloud Dispelling Hall, the Tower of Buddhist Incense, and tour guide Katy’s favourite, the Sea of Wisdom Temple.

The Cloud Dispelling Hall is at the centre of this ensemble of throne rooms, shrines, and reception areas. Another tribute to the devotion – or fear - of the Qianlong Emperor’s mother, it was burnt down by British and French troops in 1860, only to be loving restored by the Empress Cixi in 1886. The hall became known as the Birthday Hall, and officials would arrive and worship the Empress on her birthday, which she celebrated at the summer palace while escaping Beijing’s summer heat. The hall now boasts some of the opulent gifts bestowed on the Empress on her birthdays past.

Nearby, the Empress would give audience to visiting officials in the Renshoudian,

the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity. Visitors to the hall today can still see the original furnishings, including her red sandalwood throne, carved with nine writhing dragons.

When she wasn’t receiving nobles in the hall, the Empress Dowager Cixi could be found playing Guanyin, the goddess of mercy, in the hill’s Deheyeun, theatre.

It’s said the windows would be opened so that the music from the plays would reach the Jade Waves Palace, where the Emperor Guangxi was kept prisoner for ten years by the Empress for supporting political reform.

Her memory echoes through the park she loved so much. Outside the entrance, tourists can buy hats and pose as a Chinese monarch, while inside, as the sun rises above the ancient halls and shimmers off the water, wizened old men dip paint brushes in the lake and paint the Empress’ favourite poems on the stone walk way, only to watch the characters evaporate within minutes. Fortunately, because of the beautiful palace and gardens that were so close to her heart, the memory of this dynamic leader will remain far longer.

Facts of the Summer Palace It was said that if the waters of Kunming Lake were still, the nation was stable.

The Summer Palace draws up to 107,000 visitors on a single day, with the most popular season to visit being, you guessed it, summer.

The East Gate is lined with depictions of the mythical creature the kylin. Featuring the head of a dragon, the tail of a lion, the hooves of an ox, and the antlers of a deer, these demi-gods were said to be able to identify disloyal subjects before they entered the grounds.

The chandeliers of the Hall of Joy and Longevity, where the Empress Dowager had her living quarters, were China’s first electric lights. Installed in 1903, they ran off their own generator.

In winter, skating is common on the Kunming Lake.

The open water swimming events of the 2008 Olympics in Beijing were held in the man-made lake.

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AIRLINES

A Fall from Grace Korean Air may have the state-of-the-art A380 on the Seoul-New York route, but its inflight product is falling short of the mark, finds Nick Walton.

Pre-Flight

Check-in at JFK’s Terminal 1 was smooth and efficient, despite a scowl from staff when I requested a window seat. After 30 minutes passing through chaotic security with surly and bored-looking TSA staff, I made my way to Korean Air’s lounge at JFK, which is also open to Priority Pass members as well as Aeroflot, LOT, and Saudia premium customers.

This must be one of the airline’s most underwhelming spaces (save for the travesty that is the KE lounge in Hong Kong). Korean Air’s A380 service features 32 www.explorer-magazine.com

106 premium seats, ensuring the lounge was always packed to capacity. With tired décor, stained seats, few power points, an abysmal food and beverage selection, and a strong pervading smell of instant ramen throughout, the lounge is a poor way to start any business class journey.

Inflight

I always opt for an upstairs window seat on the A380 because of the brilliant additional storage space. The 21.6-inch wide Prestige Class Sleeper Seat, in a 2-2-2 configuration, offers ample space between rows and 180 degrees of lie-

flat bliss when in bed mode. A 15.4-inch LCD monitor gives access to the plane’s entertainment system but cheap, nonnoise reduction headphones, which looked strikingly like those in economy, were a disappointment. Staff distributed Davi of Napa amenity kits that included face cream, lip balm, and and an eye mask, but curiously no ear plugs – the A380 is quiet but not that quiet! A cabin attendant said they were unable to offer champagne before takeoff as it was “sealed,” and gave a rather overdone expression of apology before taking both lunch and dinner orders.

Our flight left JKF on time and after reaching cruising altitude, the same attendant did bring me a glass of PerrierJouët with another, more sincere apology.

As friendly as the crew was (and they were charming compared to the Seoul - Hong Kong crew), there was a distinct impression that they were overwhelmed, and the result was business class seats and premium economy service at best.

Meal service lacked finesse despite the fact that, as an afternoon departure, there there was no pressing need for passengers to sleep. Lunch consisted of a seared scallop with paprika puree followed by smoked salmon carpaccio and a choice of Korean bibimbap; bulgogi beef with rice; roasted rib eye; or roasted seafood with linguini. The bibimbap was

delicious but its presentation on KE has really slipped, and the overall impression was that of a quick regional flight meal service.

After a 15-minute wait for crew to man the Celestial Bar at the rear of the top deck, I enjoyed an Absolut cocktail with views of Hudson Bay’s ice floes below, before making the most of my Sleeper Seat and catching several hours of shut-eye under comfortable blankets. I wasn’t woken for the second meal service (nor was the passenger beside me) despite having already ordered, and the crew asked us both 35 minutes out from Incheon if we would like a meal, knowing quietly that it was virtually impossible. The same sucking lemon expression of apology.

Summary

It’s truly sad to see a once great airline allowing its service levels to slip. On all four KE flights I travelled on that week, service was a shadow of previous KE flights (one was downright infuriating), showing that having state-of-the-art hardware is no replacement for good service, consistency, and attention to detail, especially in Asia’s ultracompetitive airline industry Note: The author travelled on a paid business class ticket without the knowledge of the airline. www.koreanair. com

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