SEPT - OCTOBER 2016
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE The Queen of the Seas
Cornwall Cool
Fiji
The Pacific’s Land of Smiles GENERATOR AMSTERDAM
CLARIDGE’S LONDON
CANBERRA FOR FAMILIES
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
W
elcome to another issue of Explorer, the digital, environmentally friendly travel magazine for true
world wanderers. As in every issue, we strive to whisk you to destinations both familiar and unknown, to cities and deserts, tropical islands, and mountain peaks, in our never-ending mission to inspire and inform the world’s real travellers. In this
latest issue we kick off in Fiji, known in the Pacific as the Land of Smiles. But did you know Fiji is also the adrenalin hub of the South Pacific as well? If you’re looking to do more than lie by the pool, this is a tropical locale that just might be for you. To something a little more refined, we cruise Cunard’s majestic Queen Victoria from Hong Kong to Singapore as cruising mania arrives in the Far East. Gayatri Bhaumik explores the Cornwall Coast’s beautiful boutique hotels and historic villages on a road trip to remember. There’s also time to get the low down on familyfriendly activities in Canberra as the Australian capital prepares for new flights from Singapore, and for high tea at one of London’s most iconic houses of slumber, Claridge’s. Wherever you’re travelling this month, and whether you’re looking to be pampered or scared half to death, we hope Explorer continues to be your consummate guide to the world’s farthest flung corners.
David Leung Publisher
CONTRIBUTORS Always ready for her next adventure,
Gayatri Bhaumik
took
her first flight at 10 days old and hasn't looked back since. Currently based in Hong Kong, she contributes travel and lifestyle stories to publications like Jetsetter, Elite Traveler, The Loop, Buro 24/7 Singapore and Vanilla Luxury, and serves as the Travel Columnist for Liv.
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WORLD IN PICS
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SAY
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CHEESE From outdoor music festivals in the desert, to exploring ancient houses of trading in Portugal, these are the images inspiring our travel plans this season.
1: Perth in Western Australia offers some of the world’s closest whale watching experiences. Credit: Experience Perth 2: Rickshaw Travel has launched new Myanmar itineraries for independent travellers. 3: Revellers attend the 24th Moab Music Festival. Credit: MATB 4: Guests from the newly-launched Scenic Azure river cruiser from Scenic Cruises explore Porto’s Palácio da Bolsa 5: Sir Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the Beatles Love by Cirque Du Soleil at the Mirage Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas. 6: An iconic junk plying Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour. Credit: InterContinental Hong Kong 7: Aurora Expeditions has released its latest series of itineraries to Antarctica. 8: Great Walks of Australia has launched a new itinerary exploring South Australia’s Murray River
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WHAT’S HAPPENING
Festes de la Mercè
Outlook Festival
September 22 – 25, 2016 Barcelona, Spain
August 31 – September 4, 2016 Pula, Croatia
For a dose of Catalan flair, the annual Barcelona La Mercè Festival, held on the feast day of Our Lady of Mercy as a multi-activity event, showcases Sardana dancing, a Giants Parade, and the famous Castellers human towers, events that never fail to heat up the city with passion and energy. Don’t forget to pop in at Les Rambles markets when you get peckish. www.merce.barcelona
Oktoberfest
Set in a Roman amphitheater in Fort Punta Christo, the Outlook Festival brings together a great line up of Jamaicaninspired music. Festival-goers will love the combination of live performances by Damian “Jr. Gong” Marley, Stormzy, and Kano, set beside the beautiful Adriatic Sea. Don’t miss out on the beach and boat parties that take place nearby during the festival. http://www.outlookfestival.com/
Wanderlust Festival
September 17 - October 3, 2016 Munich, Germany
October 20 – 23, 2016 Queensland, Australia
Held during the warm nights of September, the largest beer festival in the world, Oktoberfest, attracts over one million beer lovers to Munich each year. Feast on traditional Bavarian cuisine, served by maidens in tradition costumes, and be sure to bring your singing voice for the traditional beer songs. http://www.oktoberfest.de/en/
Lovers of spiritual advancement can celebrate mindful living at the Wanderlust Festival at the Novotel Twin Waters Resort on the Sunshine Coast. With attending world-class yoga and meditation instructors including Shiva Rea, and musicians like Elijah Ray on hand, this unique festival promises lifechanging experiences set against the beautiful natural landscapes. http://wanderlust.com/festivals/
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WHAT’S HAPPENING
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AFROPUNK Festival
Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta
August 27 - 28, 2016 New York, the United States
October 1 – 9, 2016 New Mexico, the United States
Once part of Brooklyn’s underground music scene and now an international event, AFROPUNK Festival combines music, film, visual art, and storytelling. A showcase of African-American music and culture and a chance to see a line up of new and established Afro-inspired acts, this year’s festival includes Kelsey Lu, Ice Cube, and Skunk Anansie. Don’t forget to check out the street art exhibition and adjacent markets while grabbing a bite from the food trucks nearby. http://afropunkfest.com/brooklyn/
With its origins as a birthday celebration for local KOB Radio, Balloon Fiesta attracts tens of thousands of visitors to Albuquerque each year. The largest hot air balloon festival in the world offers visitors a chance to see the skies filled with multi-colour balloons during early morning piloting and speed competitions. http://www.balloonfiesta.com/
POP Montreal
Fine Art Asia 2016
September 21 – 25, 2016 Montreal, Canada Celebrating music and independent art forms, the five-day POP Montreal International Music Festival brings about more than 400 great musicians in 50 venues across the city. After enjoying performances by indie rock band Interpol and singersongwriter John Cale, visitors can also explore creative works at the art exhibitions, fashion shows, and cultural events held during the festival. https://popmontreal.com/en/
October 2 – 5, 2016 Hong Kong A must-attend event for art lovers in Hong Kong, Fine Art Asia 2016 will exhibit a range of ancient and modern artwork. From Western antiques and sculptures to contemporary Chinese paintings and rare jewellery, over 100 renowned galleries will showcase museum-quality masterpieces. Dealers and collectors can also take home some great work from the Sotheby’s autumn auctions held in the same venue. http://www.fineartasia.com/index.htm www.explorer-magazine.com
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NEWS
Travellers looking to escape from the hectic
Rustic Seclusion
pace of city life will rejoice at the newlyopened North Hill City Resort in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Inspired by the beautiful landscape of the region, the new resort features fresh, contemporary design, seen in its 42 spacious guest rooms and suites, which offer serene views of the Doi-Suthep Temple. In addition to a fitness centre with state-of-the-art cardio equipment; an all-day Italian restaurant; an outdoor pool; and a stunning amphitheatre for memorable events, the North Hill City Resort is also home to a private organic farm. Guests will have the opportunity to take farm-to-table cooking classes, in which they will learn to hand-pick local herbs and vegetables. www.northhillcityresort.com
Bike Adventure
SpiceRoads Cycle Tours has launched two new half-day tours in Southeast Asia, allowing travellers the chance to explore the capital of Thailand and north central Laos on two wheels. Bangkok's Hidden Treasure is a 13km ride through the city's less-visited neighbourhoods. Guests will visit the centuries-old Chinese community, view artwork and traditional crafts at Ban Silapin (Artist’s House), and enjoy a relaxing ride in a traditional Thai long-tail boat along the majestic Chao Phraya River. For the Luang Prabang Night Ride - a 12 km journey along the narrow lanes and small hidden alleys of the French Indochinese colonial quarter - participants will visit unique temples and stroll through a local market, where they can find traditional handicrafts and sample Laotian cuisine. www.spiceroads.com
Travellers who want to take in the famed Inle Lake in Myanmar should check into the 94-room Sanctum Inle Resort, set to open in Nyaungshwe Township this October. Created by acclaimed French designer Brigitte Dumont de Chassart, the new resort features Spanish-style arches and minimalist, modern room design. Ranging in size from 40sqm to 150sqm, all rooms come with lofty ceilings, natural wood floors, plush bedding, air-conditioning, and cable TV. The 107-seat Refectory restaurant offers a full complement of local and Western dishes, while the Cloister Bar serves a wide selection of Myanmar-brewed beers, international wines, and Cuban and Dominican cigars. Don’t forget to enjoy an indulgent treatment at the Sanctuary Spa, or take a refreshing dip in the Olympicsized swimming pool. www.sanctum-inle-resort.com www.explorer-magazine.com
Lakeside Beauty
Murray Meander
NEWS
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An Ideal retreat for families and groups of friends, One Eleven Bali has introduced The Penthouse, a three-bedroom lifestyle apartment located in the heart of Seminyak. Accommodating up to six guests, The Penthouse is contemporary in design and features a chic lounge area, three bedrooms with queen-sized beds, a generous dining space, and a fully-equipped kitchen for guests to cook up a storm. On the deck is a private swimming pool, where guests can relax or let off steam. Whilst the villas at One Eleven are adults-only, The Penthouse is available for guests of all ages to immerse in the cool vibe of a “resort experience”, complemented with airport transfers, daily breakfast, and 24-hour butler service. http://111resorts.com/penthouse
Family Fun
Designed for those who love adventures on foot, The Murray River Walk – a new addition to the Great Walks of Australia’s collective of premium guided multi-day walks – is a four-day journey commencing in Renmark, South Australia. The 40km walk showcases a variety of terrain throughout the Murray River region, including bush trails, ancient red gum forests, wetlands and red ochre cliffs, on a private trail. Guided walking combined with peaceful cruising immerses guests in the beautiful landscape and reveals the pioneering history of the paddle steamers, which once plied the route. Guests will encounter a diverse array of wildlife and waterbirds along the river, creeks and old oxbow lagoons. The South Australia's Riverland food bowl is a highlight, whilst the end of the journey is celebrated with lunch at the award-winning Wilkadene Woolshed Brewery.
www.greatwalksofaustralia.com.au
Travellers will be transported to the
Paris Flair
romantic city of Paris when they check into The Parisian Macao, which will open on the Cotai Strip this September. Developed by Sands China Ltd and inspired by the magic and wonder of the famed City of Light, The Parisian Macao features a half-scale recreation of the Eiffel Tower. The property's full array of integrated resort facilities include 3,000 guest rooms and suites, a variety of international restaurants, a spa, a kids' club, a health club, a pool deck with themed water park, and a 1,200-seat theatre. The resort’s retail mall, Shoppes at Parisian, will offer the latest in fashion and couture in a setting reminiscent of the streets of Paris, with an eclectic mix of street artists and entertainers heightening the authentic experience. www.parisianmacao.com
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10 NEWS
Lofoten Links in Norway, one of the world's
New Digs for Golfers
most northerly golf courses, has unveiled a range of luxurious accommodation, in which golf aficionados can rest under the Northern Lights after a day of match play. Guests can now stay in one of the chic Lofoten Links Lodges, located only one kilometre from the golf course. Each lodge boasts three or four bedrooms, a kitchen, a spacious lounge with fireplace, and a terrace with stunning sea views. Alternatively, they can opt for an elegant Lofoten Links Apartment, which offers amazing golf course views and a spacious living room. Both options provide the perfect base from which to embark on a variety of outdoor activities, including Icelandic horse riding, kayaking and, in winter, cross-country skiing. www.lofotenlinks.no
Into the Cold
Aurora Expeditions has teamed up with Canon Collective – the social community of Canon Australia - to offer travellers an exclusive photography experience on its expedition to Antarctica and South Georgia this November. The 18-day Photographer's First Light tour features an onboard photography program delivered by award-winning polar photographer Joshua Holko and environmental photographer Martyn Lucas. Guests will have the chance to capture early-season light, soaring seabirds, and at least three species of penguin. From small inflatable crafts called 'Zodiacs', passengers will cruise past and snap intricatelyshaped icebergs and giant glaciers. The expedition is priced from US$14,300 per person and includes all onboard accommodation and meals, daily excursions, expert guides, photography workshops, and the use of Canon's latest equipment. www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
If the Olympics inspired you, perhaps now is the perfect time to join Oasis Overland’s 51 day Santiago to Rio coast-to-coast itinerary, which commences in Chile, and visits Argentina and Brazil’s most enthralling sights. Climb to the crater of Chile’s Villarrica volcano; brave the canyons of glaciers in Bariloche, Argentina; attend a football match with the home team; and learn the timeless steps of Tango along the way. You’ll have a chance to stretch your legs on the famed ‘W’ trek in the Torres del Paine national park, and visit the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, before rewarding both soul and body with a well-earned steak and a glass of red wine in Buenos Aires. Finish off your adventure with a visit to the majestic Iguazu Falls before arriving in Rio in time for either New Year’s Eve or the annual Carnival. www.oasisoverland.co.uk
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Rio or Bust
BACK TO SCHOOL AMSTERDAM
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Amsterdam’s newest hostelhotel hybrid is a far cry from a backpackers dorm, or the university halls it once played home to.
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ocated in trendy Amsterdam East, adjacent to the rustic, serene Oosterpark, Generator Amsterdam is the city’s newest hotel-hostel hybrid, delivering great value, clean, modern accommodations, and the design savvy of leading luxury houses of slumber. Housed in a historic building dating from 1908 that once housed the University of Amsterdam's science department, Generator has retained the aesthetics of the lecture halls and science labs while injecting the spaces with playful graphics and vibrant colours, to create a new generation of hostel designed for travellers looking for a unique, affordable accommodation in one of the most beautiful cities in the Netherlands. Created by award-winning interior design firm DesignAgency, Generator Amsterdam offers 168 contemporary, well-lit rooms furnished with modern amenities and artistic elements. Premium Twin rooms are fitted with comfortable bedding, full-length mirrors, and en-suite bathrooms with complimentary toiletries, while each Premium Quad room features one bunk bed and two singles, ideal for families and groups of friends travelling together. For a more luxurious option, book the Sky Suite on the top floor of the hostel. Accommodating up to six guests, the generously-sized suite offers breathtaking views of the Oosterpark, two separate bedrooms, a well-equipped kitchen, and a relaxing lounge area – its like your own private apartment in the midst one of Amsterdam’s coolest enclaves.
Named after a famous Dutch writer, Nescio is the heart and social hub of the hostel, comprising an all-day dining café, a chic bar, and a versatile event space. Colourful and stylish, the Nescio Café serves a range of locally-inspired dishes and freshly-brewed coffee. If weather allows, dine outside on the raised veranda, an ideal spot from which to soak in amazing park views. After dusk, enjoy a beer or a refreshing cocktail at The Auditorium - formerly a lecture hall - which features tiered seating and a professor's desk repurposed as a central bar. Alternatively, unwind in The Library, filled with orange books that pay homage to the country’s cultural colour. A perfect base from which to embark on a city adventure, Generator Amsterdam is only a 20-minute tram ride from major attractions, including Dam Square, Rijksmuseum and Rembrandt Square. https://generatorhostels.com www.explorer-magazine.com
12 FIJI
ADVENTURE IN THE PACIFIC’S LAND OF SMILES The tropical island paradise of Fiji is popular with honeymooners and families looking for the perfect combination of sun and sand. But for adrenalin junkies, there’s more than meets the eye.
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ew people smile like the Fijians, and it's something that needs to be seen to be believed. Of course, they have a lot to smile about; Fijians live in a tropical paradise few of us can conjure up in our mind's eye without the help of glossy travel brochures. Safe, warm, sunny almost all year round, the result is a population that's always got a grin on its face, from waving bus drivers and beaming hotel porters, to air crew, store clerks and the school kids one spies early each morning, dressed in immaculately white shirts and traditional lava lava sarongs. It makes Fiji a great destination for anyone looking to smile in return. Located in the heart of the South Pacific, Fiji really has it all; there are deserted beaches with talcum powder sand, tiny islands wreathed by coral reefs, bustling market places and a rich local culture. There are mountains to climb, rivers to
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raft, cliffs to abseil and afterward, plenty of bar stools from which to share a story – and a smile – with the locals. Adventure lovers should head south from the international airport at Nadi, bound for the Coral Coast, a strip of paradise that hugs the lagoons at the base of the main island of Vitu Levu. Pacific Harbour is the home to Fiji's many adventure activities, including snorkeling and diving in the Bega Lagoon, named by Jacque Cousteau as the 'soft coral capital of the world', white water rafting and tubing down jungle rivers, kite boarding and deep sea fishing. Adventures in Paradise (www. adventuresinparadisefiji.com) is a wholly Fijian owned adventure company which offers excursions up to a hidden waterfall in the heart of the jungle. You'll meet a traditional Fijian www.explorer-magazine.com
FIJI village chief, share kava (ceremonial root drink) with him, and listen to stories of forest mystics and ancient voodoo, before hiking through the jungle and learning about traditional plant use. Few venture into the interior and the reward is a stunning 37m high waterfall with a tranquil swimming pool at its base. Alternatively, adrenalin junkies might prefer to hit the seas on a jetski with Jetski Safaris (www.jetskisafari.com). These family friendly safaris allow you to travel at your own pace, circumnavigating Bega Island as a group and stopping in at an uninhabited atoll for a spot of lunch and a chance for some world class snorkeling.
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chance to enjoy a drink in the sun at the 19th hole. Denarau is also home to the main marina on Vitu Levu, where ferries leave for the outlying islands. South Sea Cruises (www.ssc.com.fj) offer speedy ferry transfers out to the likes of Plantation, Bounty, Treasure and Castaway islands, home to several family friendly resorts which capitalize on stunning lagoons and untouched reefs. There is a resort for every price bracket, from Likuliku's (www.likulikulagoon.com) over water bungalows, the only ones in Fiji, to Castaway's (www. castawayfiji.com) rustic beach bures (Fijian hut) and deserted beaches.
If you prefer your holiday to take a more sedate pace, then beach bunnies will love nearby Natadola Beach, a strip of sand regularly listed among the world's best. Here you can swim, snorkel or even take a horse ride along the beach before finishing off at the beachfront bar at the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa. If you're an avid golfer, the resort is home to a Vijay Singh-designed par 72 championship course that comes with stunning views down the Coral Coast.
If you're looking to really escape, you can't go past a Blue Lagoon Cruise (www.bluelagooncruises. com). The oldest boutique cruise line in the islands, Blue Lagoon specialise in travelling to the remote Yasawa Islands, a chain of untouched isles to the north of Vitu Levu. Here you'll spend your days sailing between snorkeling sessions, tying up to coconut palms in tranquil lagoons each night, for traditional lovo dinners on shore. You'll visit villages where electricity is still a luxury and where family, culture and identity is everything.
There is also great golf at Denarau, a man made island and home to a series of luxury resorts, including the Sofitel, Hilton and the Westin. The Denarau Golf & Tennis Club (www.denaraugolf. com.fj) is adjacent to the Sheraton and offers tropical golfing at Pacific prices, as well as a
Fiji is a destination that's only just opening up to Asia, but whether you're looking for adventure, luxury, or culture, you're bound to find it amongst the smiling islands of the South Pacific.
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16 AUSTRALIA
What a capital
IDEA!
NEW FLIGHTS PROMISE TO PUT CANBERRA IN THE LIMELIGHT FOR TRAVELLING FAMILIES. www.explorer-magazine.com
AUSTRALIA
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he Australian capital prepares to welcome families from Asia and beyond with the arrival of Singapore Airlines flights in September. Canberra has long been a popular destination for Australian families and now this wellkept secret destination will welcome travellers from across the world looking for an authentic Aussie experience. Here are some of our favourites. Thinking chemistry equations and test tubes? Think again! Science equals fun for all ages at Questacon – The National Science and Technology Centre (questacon.edu.au), where families can spend a whole day exploring the 200-plus interactive exhibits. Freefall from a six metre-high slide, experience a simulated earthquake, challenge a robot to a game of air hockey or take your budding scientists (0-6 year olds) to Mini Q. With its stunning scenery and fully sealed bike paths, Lake Burley Griffin is a great place to burn off some energy. Check out some of Canberra’s iconic galleries and museums scattered along the shoreline, and cycle or walk the five-kilometre loop between the Kings Avenue and Commonwealth Avenue bridges. For kids aged 12 years and older, discover the Lake and famous landmarks on a segway with SegGlideRide (segglideride.com.au). Located on the north-east side of the Lake, just off Kings Avenue, Boundless (boundlesscanberra.org.au) showcases the benefits of inclusion and diversity, enabling children with a disability to explore, play and swing alongside their able-bodied peers. There are ramps, cubbies, swings, slides and a sandpit with diggers. Recently awarded the Best Landmark in TripAdvisor’s Australian and the South Pacific categories, the Australian War Memorial (awm. gov.au) offers interactive, educational experiences for kids of all ages. The younger historians of the family can dodge sniper fire in a First World War trench, take control of an Iroquois helicopter and peer through the periscope of a Cold War submarine. For the young adrenalin thrill seekers,
Power Kart Raceway
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(powerkarts.com.au) is an indoor racing experience featuring world-class electric go-karts on an F1-style circuit, not far from the Parliamentary Triangle. The latest-generation OTL Electrokarts are more powerful and consistent than conventional petrol-powered kart, providing beginners and experienced racers with a thrilling experience. There’s a heated spectator area, cafe and amusement arcade. For a truly motivating experience, visit the Australian Institute of Sport (ausport.gov.au), the nation’s premier elite sports precinct. Get an insight into what goes into making a champion athlete on a behind-the-scenes AIS Tour, which includes Sportex, an educational and engaging sports experience where families can try wheelchair basketball, rock climbing and football penalty shoot-outs. Get up close and personal with some of the world’s most amazing creatures at the National Zoo & Aquarium (nationalzoo.com.au). With a wide variety of native and exotic animals and the largest inland saltwater tank in Australia, there’s something for all the family. The Family Tour takes families behind the scenes to feed sun bears and fallow deer and meet monkeys, dingoes, kangaroos and emus. Surrounded by native flora and fauna, Yarralumla Play Station (yarraps.com.au) is the home of Weston Park Railway, Petite Park Petting Zoo and Lake Walter Mini Golf. The 36-hole Canberra-themed mini golf courses include a model Lake Burley Griffin and adaptations of the Parliamentary Triangle. Ride the miniature train, Bluebell, which runs every 30 minutes around the grounds, and look out for the herds of kangaroos that also enjoy the area. Dinosaur fans of all ages will completely ‘dig’ the National Dinosaur Museum (nationaldinosaurmuseum.com.au), located in Canberra’s Gold Creek Village. With one of the largest permanent displays of dinosaurs and prehistoric life in Australia, children can discover how dinosaurs evolved and interacted amid skulls, skeletons, murals, models and fossils not on display anywhere else in the world. There are even robotic dinosaurs that move, roar, blink and breathe! For more information about Canberra, go to visitcanberra.com.au
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18 CORNWALL
A Drive through
Luxury & Legend A five-day road trip through Cornwall shows this rustic peninsula is redefining itself by offering luxurious touches to its colourful history, discovers
Gayatri Bhaumik.
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CORNWALL
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he southwestern peninsula of Britain, Cornwall is probably best known for smugglers and mining. But amidst its wild landscapes, storybook villages, and myth-like history, this enchanting county is experiencing a renaissance. Chic boutique hotels, sumptuous fine-dining and other luxurious offerings are adding new elements to Cornwall’s contemporary charm, or so I discover on the first stop of a five-day roadtrip with my friend Nivi. An idyllic property by the Helford River, Budock Vean blends old-world charm with 21st century luxe. Our cottage-feel Signature Room boasts soothing white and grey tones, Elemis amenities, and views of the onsite golf course. At the Natural Health Spa that afternoon, the Head in Heaven, a pampering back and face massage, has me nodding off in minutes. By evening, elegant guests – the dining room, refreshingly, has a dress code – are treated to decadent three-course meals packed with local produce, from pan-seared Falmouth Bay scallops to perfectly cooked, locally-reared beef. Early the next morning, we explore Helford River aboard the Hannah Molly, a traditional Cornish riverboat. This is a gorgeous spot of storied cottages and country inns hidden among vividly lush greenery, but the real drawcard is Frenchman’s Creek, the setting of Daphne du Maurier’s eponymous novel about debonair pirates. The wide swathe of water is calm and lined with untamed foliage, and while it’s bigger than one imagines, it’s still a place of serenity.
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CORNWALL
Leaving Helford, we drive north towards Fowey, stopping at the legendary harbour in Falmouth. Fringed by vast beaches and quaint Georgian houses, this was once a major British port. Today you’re more likely to see recreational yachts than cargo ships. After it stood in for Falmouth in the BBC’s hit TV show, Poldark, fans descend in masses on the nearby 18th century harbour of Charlestown. It’s certainly worth a photo op, but the real treat here is Tall Ships Creamery, considered home to some of the best ice cream in the United Kingdom. Kenneth Grahame was a frequent visitor to Fowey Hall, and it’s said the property inspired Toad Hall in his children’s book, The Wind in the Willows. The charming country manor-style hotel is at once stately and comfortable. The big library is cosy, not imposing; the sitting room, with its lounges and fireplace is ideal for afternoon tea; while rooms are elegant and inviting, with vintage-inspired furnishings, plenty of creature comforts, and garden views. The lord-of-the-manor feeling continues at
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dinner; in the elegant, adults-only dining room, an indulgent dinner begins with baked camembert, before moving on to hearty catch-of-the-day mains accompanied by intriguing local wine, and finishing with sticky toffee pudding and Pedro Ximenez port. Late the next morning, after a lazy breakfast and a meet-andgreet with Bramble, Fowey Hall’s resident pooch, we’re off to Camel Valley. Accessed by a dirt track, the winery is an unlikely proposition, but since 1989 the vineyard has been producing award-winning wines and now counts the royals and chefs Rick Stein and Raymond Blanc as fans. With a panoramic backdrop of lush vineyards and verdant hills, and few people around to spoil the experience, a visit to Camel Valley is an oenophile’s delight. A bottle of Cornwall’s finest in hand, we head for one of the area’s most famous destinations. A historic coaching house, Jamaica www.explorer-magazine.com
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Inn is best known as the setting of another eponymous Daphne du Maurier novel. The author’s stay here, in 1930, inspired her tale of a smuggler gang led by the inn’s wicked landlord. It still operates as an inn, but these days the property trades off the legends associated with its name. The onsite Smuggler’s Museum offers great insight into this side of Cornish history, while bibliophiles will appreciate the comprehensive Daphne du Maurier display. After a refreshing pint of Rattler’s Cider in the back garden, we continue through the wilds of Bodmin Moor. Offering dramatic cliff and ocean vistas from its perch above Magwan Porth beach, The Scarlet is a sophisticated, sustainable adultsonly hotel. Our room is an airy, hi-tech space with a private balcony perfect for quiet morning coffees. A must-do indulgence, the spa’s clifftop hot tubs are a guest favourite; we laze here for an hour, enjoying some bubbly while watching the sky turn fiery shades of pink and orange as
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contemporary property is a charming bolthole done up in relaxed New Englandinspired style. Our rooms are calming oases of whites, greys and blues, with White Company amenities and well-stocked tea trays. As the sun sets, guests gather on the expansive terrace for drinks, then move to the dining room for dinner. The Boskerris focuses on unfussy menus bolstered by quality ingredients from small local producers; the result is simple, delectable fare – like the particularly memorable pâté - in keeping with the hotel’s laid-back feel. Bent on enjoying our last morning, we drive the coastal road south, then west, towards Penzance. The route meanders through the heart of Cornwall, past tiny hamlets, and its mining heritage. We stumble across Carn Galver, a prehistoric crag that housed a small tin mine during the Victorian era, and Levant Mine, a Natural Trust site that was also used as a Poldark filming location. It’s a rugged landscape where the restored steam engine and mine sit amidst untamed wilds and sweeping coastal views. Cornwall has countryside charm in spades, but it’s clear the peninsula is redefining itself. Visitors have long been drawn to Cornwall’s captivating history, rural pleasures, and legends, and by striving for excellence in hospitality, food and drinks, and leisure offerings, the area is endearing itself to discerning visitors. the sun dips below the horizon. The design-savvy restaurant here offers refined dishes laced with seasonal ingredients; the fresh, zesty Cornish crab and smoked salmon salad are real standouts. The next morning, we get a taste of traditional Cornish charm as we mosey south along the coast, stopping at whim to explore. In the little village of St Agnes, locals sip coffee overlooking the dramatic cliff-fringed beach at Trevaunance Cove; later, we join visitors wandering through the small boutiques and Tate gallery offshoot at St Ives. St Ives has its charms, but its tourist crowds and impossible roads can spoil stays here, so tonight’s stop is the Boskerris, a small boutique hotel located five minutes away in Carbis Bay. Thoroughly modernised in 2004 by the Bassett family, this www.explorer-magazine.com
24 CRUISING
Q u ee n o f
The world’s most historic cruise cruisers from Asia keen to tap www.explorer-magazine.com
CRUISING
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t h e S e as
e line is steadily attracting new into Cunard’s rich traditions. www.explorer-magazine.com
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here’s nothing quite like leaving your home town by ship, if only to gain a unique perspective. Whether that ship is a regal old ocean liner or a modern metropolis with climbing walls and bumper cars, there is majesty in that departure, and in the silent, slipping panorama that’s at once familiar and exhilaratingly new. The Queen Victoria’s recent midnight departure from Hong Kong’s Ocean Terminal was just such an occasion; the towering skyscrapers, backed by the brooding profile of Victoria Peak, make for a stunning retreat from one of Asia’s most famous ports but quickly we’re engulfed by the darkness of night on the South China Sea. It’s beautiful and unforgettable cruise experiences like this that first forged the Cunard brand, helping the 175-year old line become a household name, on either sides of the Atlantic and beyond. Bolstered by its popularity with well-heeled British and Australian cruisers (the latter recently announced as the line’s second largest market), this most historic of lines is now turning its attention to affluent new cruisers in Southeast Asia and China, keen to tap in to all that rich heritage and tradition. “It’s just like I expected a cruise to be,” says one Hong Kong first time Cunard cruiser I meet on the top deck as we navigate the length of Victoria Harbour. “My wife can’t wait to dress up, sip champagne and waltz in the Queens Room. It’s all very exciting.” A total of 1,400 guests, a mixture of Australians, English, and many first time Cunarders from Hong Kong, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia, had boarded Queen Victoria in
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CRUISING Hong Kong. They joined almost 300 guests enjoying the 120day World Cruise, a Cunard staple that’s been on offer for 80 years. One Yorkshireman I encounter on the way to dinner that first night was celebrating his 2,000th day at sea with the line. It’s also my first Cunard cruise and this means I bring with me – founded or not – the expectations garnered by a brand that transcends generations. My grandmother coos when I tell her I will travel with Cunard from Hong Kong to Singapore and crowds line the waterfront at Tsim Sha Tsui to photograph the magnificent Queen Victoria at berth. It’s an important day on the line’s marketing calendar; dubbed the Three Queens Party, Queen Victoria, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Elizabeth will all visit Hong Kong within 24 hours, a sign of things to come as Asian ports increasingly feature on Cunard’s iconic world cruise itineraries. After suffering through the confusion of Ocean Terminal, literally a shopping mall with cruise facilities absent-mindedly added later (and thanking my stars I wasn’t boarding at the new Kai Tak Terminal at the other end of the harbour), I pace long corridors onboard, eventually finding my balcony category room on the 5th deck, starboard side. The Queen Victoria boasts 1,003 cabins, made up of 143 inside, 146 oceanview and 581 balcony staterooms. There are a total of 10 wheelchair accessible cabins across the varied room categories, which include Cunard’s coveted Princess and Queens Grill suites, and several single cabins for solo travellers,
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an increasingly popular amenity for Cunard diehards. My balcony stateroom is elegant, quiet and functional. There’s a double bed made up of two slim singles; a small bathroom with marble vanity and shower; a small work desk with flat screen television; a two-seat couch, and a generous balcony with two chairs. The room is dressed in clover honey with accents in royal blue and gold. There’s plenty of wardrobe space and it’s blissfully cool. Each evening my steward William performs the turndown service, topping up the Penhaligon's Quercus toiletries and returning the room to order, making the space a delight to return to at the end of a long day of exploration. Of course, to sample the real Cunard cruise experience you need to book into either one of the 58 Princess Grill Suites, which are basically larger versions of a standard balcony cabin and range from 335-513sqft; or the Queens Grill suites, which range from 35 Penthouses and 16 Queens Suites through to four Grand and two Master Suites. In addition to some in-room perks, from extra wardrobe space and full sized bathtubs to terry cloth robes and king-sized beds, these spaces offer cruisers access to dedicated lounges, courtyards, and intimate dining rooms that don’t uphold the sometimes-frustrating restrictions of the main dining room downstairs. It's classdefined cruising at its best. “I love the Princess Grill dining room,” says Hong Kong cruiser David Leung. “They really go the extra mile to look after you
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up there and the space is intimate and inviting. Downstairs it's a whole different story.” Ideal for longer itineraries and for well-heeled cruisers looking for respite from the crowds as well as a little extra pampering, the Queens and Princess Grills are British luxury cruising at its best. Queen Victoria will also add a new Britannia Club category in 2017. Cunard is the epitome of Old School British cruising; there’s the pomp of the afternoon tea, served in the sumptuous Queens Room and accompanied by live music; the daily fencing classes; and regular ballroom dance recitals. There are artifacts, posters, and models exhibited like museum pieces throughout the ship, and even the informal nights are as formal as some ships get. Consequently, Cunard has undoubtedly created its own niche with American and European cruisers, one that’s attracting an increasing number of affluent Asian travellers looking to experience the famed White Star service for themselves. Some of these cruise newbies seem to adopt the old world nature of Cunard quickly, learning to waltz and shuffleboard. Others struggle with the rigid dress codes, restrictive dining times and language barriers (there are very few Chinese-speaking crew evident). It’s apparent that Cunard suits a particular style of cruiser; one that’s less fussed with signature dining www.explorer-magazine.com
and activities and one that’s still amoured with the golden era of ocean travel, who enjoys the serenity of the sea and the elegant communality of the dining room, who revels dressing for dinner, and who likes to take things blissfully slow. There’s also no doubt that the Queen Victoria is a beautiful ship. From British sculptor John McKenna's relief sculpture panel above the grand lobby staircase, to the pastel-hued Queens Room with its intricate parquet floor, the ship is a joy to cruise on. There’s room to embrace the sun and room enough to tantalise the taste buds; there are bars and lounges galore, and room to retreat. During the day the heart of the ship is deck 9, home to the Lido all-day dining restaurant, two pools wreathed by sun loungers, the intimacy of the Winter Garden, the surprisingly popular Cunard Health Club, and the spa, all of which are packed with holidaymakers every day of our short sprint to Singapore. As the sun begins to settle, the sun-worshippers reluctantly leave their pool-side posies and the heart of the ship shifts to decks 2 and 3, which are shared between the Britannia Restaurant, the ship’s main dining room; an extensive library; the voluminous Queens Room; the Golden Lion pub, a favourite with trivia fans; a small but lively casino; and the retail options of the Royal Arcade. Like cruise ships the world
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over, dining is an important component of the cruise. Rather than split the dining experience across a vast array of outlets, Cunard consolidates and then innovates. There are two main dining outlets onboard: the Britannia Restaurant, a regal and beautifully-appointed two-tier dining room inspired by the Golden Arrow train that once linked London and Paris, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner complete with the line’s iconic White Star service. The Lido Restaurant on deck 9 offers 24 hour buffet dining and, at dinner, a revolving specialty restaurant that allows guests a chance to tour the globe with their taste buds. “I love the pageantry of the Britannia Restaurant,” says Emily, an avid cruiser from Sydney bound for Cape Town. “It’s a chance to see new friends, to digest the day’s activity, and dress to impress. We don’t come down every night but when we do we always enjoy it.” In addition to these two mainstays, there are traditional pub lunches – think beef pie and fish and chips – in the Golden Lion; cakes and pastries at tea time at Café Carinthia; and elegant French fine dining at the beautifully-appointed Verandah restaurant overlooking the ship’s main atrium. Queens and Princess Grill suite guests have access to their own dining rooms as well as all other restaurants, although there are surcharges at Verandah (US$24) and Lido’s specialty restaurant (US$15) concepts. Champagnelaced Enhanced Afternoon Teas are sometimes served in Verandah for a surcharge of US$29.99.
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white gloved waiters and waitresses (who are far more attentive than those at the pool deck or dining room), complimented by a string quartet and the beauty and vitality of the Queens Room, makes for a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Of all the activities on board – from bridge and language classes to shuffleboard and ping pong competitions, beauty seminars, fitness courses and the memorable fencing classes of the Queens Room – the afternoon tea is the most popular, with guests arriving an hour or more before hand to nab the right table. The afternoon tea is also one of the little pockets of the Queen Victoria in which the timeless elegance of Cunard is really captured. Another is the Commodore’s Club which, unlike many of the other bars on the ship, has an ambiance that’s both regal and lavish, with crisp service, live piano jazz and well-made martinis drawing guests again and again. Cunard has been a mainstay of ocean travel for generations and new itineraries and world cruises that pass through Asia will allow even more travellers the chance to voyage with the best of British luxury. www.cunard.com
However, you could be forgiven for wanting to save your money as the complimentary daily afternoon tea, served in the Queens Room, is one of the most popular events of the cruise and for good reason. The cheerful www.explorer-magazine.com
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Mayfair Lady
Background
Nick Walton checks in at
Claridge’s, one of London’s most historic and luxurious hotels, to see how this iconic Grand Dame caters to today’s affluent traveller.
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Few hotels in the British capital have the reputation of Claridge’s. Since Queen Victoria visited her friend Empress Eugenie of France at the hotel, Claridge’s has had links with royalty, heads of state and the celebrity set. The modern incarnation of the hotel, created by Harrods designer C.W.Stephens, opened its doors in 1898 and has since witnessed more than its fair share of history, from Winston Churchill declaring suite 212 Yugoslavian territory (complete with a clod of Yugoslavian earth under the bed) so Crown Prince Alexander II could be born on his own country’s soil, to Bulganin and Kruschev’s controversial Royal Suite cocktail party in 1956 that was said to be so crowded that ‘buttons popped off jackets and wine was spilt on ladies' dresses’. Today
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it’s a home-away-from-home for powerbrokers and movers-and-shakers from across the globe.
The Room My Mayfair Suite, one of 203 rooms and 64 beautiful suites (signature suites designed by Diane Von Furstenberg and Veere Grenney are especially coveted), is a sumptuous Art Deco space that boasts original architectural features, including an ornate fireplace. Bright and elegant, the suite’s bathroom is decked out in Italian marble and black and white tile, with Bamford amenities; there’s a cavernous master bedroom with king-sized bed, and gently curving timber wardrobes (home to Burberry trench coats for guest use); and beyond, a beautifully-appointed sitting room with its own entrance. While there are modern touches, from flatscreen televisions to iPod docking stations, the suite is a beautiful preservation of an illustrious era in British history.\
Happy Hour Just as popular as its suites are the hotel’s two cocktail bars, The Claridge’s Bar and The Fumoir. Claridge’s Bar is a popular enclave for hushed business gossip and has its own entrance from Davies Street. Home to an exceptional list of vintage champagnes and sought-after spirits, the bar regularly works with craft spirit producers to introduce new flavours and products to their affluent and loyal clientele, while also maintaining an exclusive collection of now discontinued tipples.
An icon of both mixology and the 1930s, The Fumoir is a small and exclusive hideaway off the hotel’s lobby that’s served the who’s who of London society for generations. Today, under a magnificent mirror etched by Basil Lonides, modern mixologists create homages to classic Prohibition-era concoctions, from swizzles, daisies, and crustas, to cups, sours, and juleps, all from original recipes, and served in Renee Lalique glasses.
Fine Dining Claridge’s signature dining experience is one Michelin-starred Fera, which was opened in 2014 by Simon Rogan, the innovative chef behind L’Enclume in Cartmel (where he holds two Michelin stars), and The French in Manchester. Driven by seasonal produce and exacting technical skill, Fera offers an unashamedly contemporary dining experience overseen by executive chef Dan Cox and restaurant director Raphael Rodriguez. Dishes are matched with an enviable wine list and are served amidst interiors by British designer Guy Oliver that fuse
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Art Deco elements with contemporary lines. For a truly spectacular dining experience, book well ahead for one of six seats at Aulis, the restaurant’s development table. No visit to Claridge’s would be complete without enjoying the iconic Afternoon Tea. An English institution for 150 years, the coveted Afternoon Tea at Claridge’s includes a selection of over twenty teas curated by Henrietta Lovell of the Rare Tea Company, sourced from some of the oldest tea plantations in China, Sri Lanka, Africa, India and even the UK, and complimented by delicious finger sandwiches, warm scones and sweet pastries.
Find Your Zen One of Claridge’s best kept secrets is the David Linley-designed Map Room, a joyous hideaway at lobby level only open to hotel guests. With plenty of Art Deco accents, this serene space is great for travellers looking to read or hold an intimate meeting. While creating an ideal hideaway to read, relax, and be inspired, the Map Room marries the needs of modern travellers with the style and art deco flair for which Claridge’s is renowned. Elegantly designed by internationally renowned British design workshop Linley, who has balanced sophistication and functional design with technical innovation, the Map Room keeps business travellers in touch and ‘in the know’ however far from home they may be. Alternatively, seek solace at Claridge’s Health Club & Spa, home to a comprehensive fitness centre and sumptuous Claridge’s beauty treatment rooms, a calm sanctuary where you can relax and emerge refreshed and rejuvenated. A menu of indulgent treatments, using Sisley spa products, includes massage rituals, facials, and beauty and anti-aging treatments. Brook Street, Mayfair, London, United Kingdom; +44 20 7629 8860; www.claridges.co.uk www.explorer-magazine.com