Explorer Sept- Oct 2017

SEPT - OCT 2017

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Journey Across the Top of the World

Port Douglas Family Fun in the Sun

Mumbai

Bollywood Boutiques

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS

GREAT CYCLING ROUTES

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

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elcome to another issue of Explorer, the environmentally-friendly digital travel magazine for true world wanderers. In this issue we go to extremes, from the frozen climes of the Canadian Arctic, to

the throbbing commercial capital of India, to the serene landscapes of the world’s best cycling routes. We kick off with the polar bears and rich polar history of the Northwest Passage, a route across the top of the world that was, until relatively recently, unpassable. Today, a handful of adventure specialists like OneOcean offer seasonal opportunities to pass through the Canadian Archipelago and marvel and this remote Arctic wonderland. From the Arctic to the beach, we stop in at Port Douglas, a family travel favourite in Australia’s north that’s home to the ancient Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. We check in at some of Mumbai’s coolest boutique hotels, check out service aboard Cathay Pacific on route to the Maldives, and hit the trail on two wheels with some of the world’s most iconic cycling routes. Wherever you’re headed to this season, we hope Explorer continues to inspire your adventures along the way.

Safe Travels,

David Leung Publisher

WORLD IN PICS

Beauty C The Zebra Slot Canyon in Utah’s Grand Staircase.

Photo credit: Utah Office of Tourism Be inspired at Alaska’s World Ice Art Championship in Fairbanks.

Photo credit: Explore Fairbanks Alaska

Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flats in southwest Bolivia. Photo credit: Journey Latin America

From the underwater world of the M these are the most awe-inspiri 4

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Captured

WORLD IN PICS

Cruise India’s famous Brahmaputra River aboard the M.V. Mahabaahu.

Photo credit: International Expeditions

Soaring mountains in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park.

Photo credit: Cox & Kings Travel Ltd

Delve into the diverse marine wildlife of a Maldivian reef.

Photo credit: Maldives Tourism

The red rocks of Sedona, Arizona.

Photo credit: Arizona Office of Tourism

Enjoy the serenity of Toowoomba’s Ju Raku En Japanese gardens in Queensland, Australia.

Photo credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Maldives to the world’s largest salt flats, ng travel photos for the season.

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 5

WHAT'S HAPPENING Photo credit: Malcolm Bull

BURNING THE CLOcKS December 21, 2017 Brighton, England An annual community event held in the English town of Brighton every winter solstice, Burning the Clocks turns the longest night of the year into a warm celebration filled with ignited lanterns.

Drawing tens of thousands of visitors, the festival features a lantern parade to the sea shore, along with fire shows and live music, and ends with a massive bonfire on Brighton beach and spectacular fireworks. www.samesky.co.uk

AfTERSHOcK FESTIVAL

Photo credit: Janus van den Eijnden

October 21 – 22, 2017 California, the United States A high-energy music event held in Sacramento, the Aftershock Festival by Monster Energy brings hard rock music fanatics together every autumn. After watching performances by an eclectic line-up that features American heavy metal band Stone Sour; hard rock band Halestorm; and rapper Tech N9ne, grab a bite at the food trucks, which offer an array of international delicacies, or express your passion for arts through graffiti painting in the Make Your Mark art zone. http://aftershockconcert.com

QUEST FESTIVAL November 10 – 12, 2017 Hanoi, Vietnam Providing an ideal weekend getaway at Son Tinh Camp, a hidden escape outside bustling Hanoi, Quest Festival celebrates arts, music, and nature, backdropped by the Ba Vi mountains.

Featuring performances by electronic musicians Mike Polarny and Jon Kennedy, as well as neofolk jazz artist Stanford Reid, this year the lakeside event’s stages are themed around the four sacred animals of Vietnam – the dragon, the unicorn, the tortoise and the phoenix. www.questfestival.net

AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

November 30, 2017 – January 21, 2018 Amsterdam, The Netherlands

A 55-day winter event featuring light and art installations all over the streets and canals of the capital of the Netherlands, the Amsterdam Light Festival provides artists a city-size stage for a spectacular themed light art exhibition. The event’s Water Colours boat route showcases giant floating artworks, while visitors will be surrounded by beautifully-lit buildings and tunnels on the Illuminade walking route, complemented by an open-air light museum featuring a range of interactive art pieces. https://amsterdamlightfestival.com 6

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

WANDERLUST FESTIVAL November 9 – 12, 2017 Queensland, Australia Celebrate mindful living at the Wanderlust Festival, hosted every year at the Novotel Twin Waters Resort on the scenic Sunshine Coast. Wellness-conscious travellers can attend world-class yoga and meditation sessions with instructors like Briohny Smyth and Janet Stone on hand, while adventure-seekers can explore the coastal landscape through hikes and watersports.

This year the four-day event will welcome big names including dance and electronic musical group Mashd N Kutcher; singersongwriter Dave Stringer; and electronic dance music artist Sol Rising. http://wanderlust.com

JUNGALA FESTIVAL November 10 – 12, 2017 Tulbagh, South Africa

Set amidst the jungle surrounding Tulbagh’s Buffalo Drift lodge, near Klein Berg River, the sensational Jungala Festival offers holidaymakers the remoteness of a riverside retreat and the beautiful scenery of a South African farm. Enjoy three days of electrifying vibes elevated by the beats of international music by Pragmatix; DJ Rota; and Rob Gonzo. Recharge at the venue’s food vendors and explore the local culture at trade stalls. http://www.jungala.co.za

ART BASEL MIAMI BEAcH December 7 - 10, 2017 Florida, the United States An annual international art event, Art Basel Miami Beach attracts tens of thousands of art lovers to the Miami Beach Convention Centre (MBCC) in Florida every December. This year this famous art show will feature 200 of the world's leading contemporary art galleries with a wide range of artworks by over 4,000 artists, from large-scale sculptures and digital arts to editioned pieces and museum-calibre masterpieces. After exploring the main exhibition area, enjoy outdoors screenings at SoundScape Park, where films are projected on a 650sqm wall. www.artbasel.com

SEOUL LANTERN FESTIVAL November 3 – 19, 2017 Seoul, South Korea Promoting creativity and cultural diversity, the Seoul Lantern Festival attracts millions of visitors to Cheonggyecheon in downtown Seoul each year. Crafted by passionate light artists as well as local and overseas organisations, hundreds of themed lanterns, from the depiction of historical scenes to modern cartoon characters, turn the streets and Supyogyo Bridge into an illuminous canvas. Don’t forget to make a New Year wish with floating lanterns or hanging notes. www.seoullantern.com SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 7

NEWS

Luxury in the Live Music Capital Set to be the largest luxury hotel in the “Live Music Capital of the World”, Fairmont Austin will open in the capital of Texas this month, welcoming guests with 1,048 well-appointed guestrooms and suites overlooking picturesque vistas of Lady Bird Lake and the State Capitol. Each of the guestrooms will feature a modern design, one king or two queen beds, a 50-inch HDTV, and Le Labo bath amenities, while spacious suites will boast an open-plan concept with separate living rooms. Culinary offerings at the hotel will include modern American grill house Garrison, which will offer fresh, locally-sourced ingredients; and the Fulton Lounge Bar, which will pay homage to the city’s famed music scene with live performance, small bites and innovative cocktails. Indulge in one of the wide variety of treatments offered by Fairmont Spa, which will comprise nine treatment rooms, two couple’s massage rooms, and a jacuzzi, as well as steam and sauna suites. www.fairmont.com

Sleeping Well

Combat insomnia at sea and enjoy a luxury sleeping experience with Celebrity Cruises and Canyon Ranch SpaClub’s newly launched wellness programme, Mindful Dreams, which will roll out on all the line's cruises through September. With a focus on the quality of sleep, the new programme features four spa treatments using luxury products from Voya and Tranquillity, as well as a series of sleeping aids. The relaxing 75-minute Mindful Dreams treatment includes a sleepinducing massage and meditation techniques, complemented by the use of calming lavender essential oil, which helps to relax muscles and soothe skin. The spa’s staff will also give nutritional advice on culinary choices for better quality sleep. www.celebritycruises.com

A Tasmanian Traverse Tour operator Tasmanian Expeditions has launched a 39-day wilderness experience, the Great Tasmanian Traverse, which will depart from Launceston on February 18, 2018, and will end at Australia's southernmost town, Hobart, on March 26, 2018. A first for Australia, the new guided expedition will highlight the company’s five iconic adventures in the Australian state, including The Penguin to Cradle, The Overland Track, Frenchmans Cap Trek, Franklin River Rafting, and the South Coast Track, covering some of the world’s most beautiful and pristine regions. Expect to trek from the sandy beaches of Penguin through valleys and canyons; climb up the peak of Mount Ossa; and be awed by the famous Cradle Mountain, before rafting the Franklin River. After exploring Tasmania's World Heritage Wilderness Area, enjoy the soft sand and turquoise waters along the shores of Cockle Creek. www.greattasmaniantraverse.com 8

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NEWS

Journey through the Volcanoes Intrepid travellers will have the chance to explore Chile’s volcanic borderlands from March 2018, as Secret Compass’ team of 12 forges a new route for the expedition company. Combining sections of the company’s existing Greater Patagonian Trail and the Condor Circuit, the team will pioneer new paths to connect four volcanic summits in the Planchon Peteroa, which straddles the border between Chile and Argentina. The 140km trekking route will facilitate access to previously unchartered regions of South American wilderness, allowing adventurous explorers the chance to discover snow-capped volcanoes towering between blue glaciers and to swim in mountain lakes while watching soaring condors. www.secretcompass.com

Mediterranean Myths Indulgence-seeking voyagers can join Silversea Cruises to explore Southern Europe with the line’s new Mediterranean Grand Voyage 2018, a 42-day itinerary aboard the Silver Muse that visits Barcelona, Venice, Valletta, and Sorrento. Departing Venice on June 5, 2018, the journey offers guests the chance to delve into the history of coastal towns along the Mediterranean shores. The line’s boutique Silver Muse features a range of luxurious suites, many with verandas, and each boasting spacious walk-in wardrobes, and flatscreen HDTVs. Guests will have the chance to enjoy the Santorini sunset, take in views of the Saronic Gulf from Piraeus’ coast, admire the centuries-old architecture of Rome, and visit the bohemian shores of Ibiza and vibrant Monte Carlo, before sailing back to Venice. www.silversea.com

Beachfront Retreat

Families and couples looking to get away from the city’s bustle can enjoy a beachside vacation at Renaissance Hotel’s first resort in Pattaya, Thailand. The Renaissance Pattaya Resort and Spa features 257 rooms, each with a natural, waterfront-inspired design with wood and metal finishes in earthy tones, reminiscent of the town’s heritage of a fishing village. The 128sqm Beachfront Jacuzzi bedroom villa features a king sized bed, a separate living room, two bathrooms with bathtubs and showers, and a balcony overlooking the ocean. For families travelling with children, the retreat’s kids pool, kids club, and luxury spa ensure both adults and young travellers are entertained throughout the day. Meat lovers will love Pebble Bar and Grill’s servings of fine beef cuts, while the R-Lounge is an ideal spot for a relaxing evening tipple. www.marriott.com

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NEWS

Island Escape

Located in Haitang Bay on Hainan Island’s National Coast, the new Rosewood Sanya resort features 246 luxury rooms and suites. Part of an integrated resort set within 16 hectares of landscaped gardens, the coastal retreat’s guestrooms and suites overlook the ocean while 45 guestrooms have balconies with plunge pools. The resort also features five restaurants and lounges, a spa and fitness studio, as well as an indoor yoga studio, an outdoor yoga platform, and a 110-metre infinity sky pool on the resort’s 13th floor. www.rosewoodhotels.com

Asia’s First citizenM Enters Taipei Check into citizenM Taipei North Gate, which has just opened in Taiwan’s capital as the brand’s first property in Asia. Boasting stunning Tamsui River views, contemporary design, and cutting-edge technology, the 267-key debut Asian property is a concept by award-winning Dutch studio Concrete, with just one room category designed around sleeping and lounging. An in-room tablet mood-pad controls the television, themed wake up alarms, room temperature, blinds, and ambient lighting, ensuring guests have a tailored experience. The property’s canteen and bar, canteenM, features a large open kitchen and serves fresh fare throughout the day in a laidback dining environment, while beer on tap, champagne and cocktails are complemented by uninterrupted city views through a large glazed façade. www.citizenm.com 10

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Seoul Paradise Korea’s first lifestyle hotel complex, Seoul Dragon City, will welcome guests next month with 1,700 rooms, 11 restaurants and bars, and two multi-function grand ballrooms. A highlight of the complex is a first-of-itskind four-storey entertainment hub, located in a sky bridge suspended between two towers, and featuring the King’s Vacation, the only lounge bar in South Korea with a European décor reinterpreting the royal holiday. With easy access to the adjacent shopping centres and tourist attractions, this lifestyle complex will comprise four Accor hotels: Novotel Suites Ambassador Seoul Yongsan, with 286 spacious modular suites ideal for long-stay guests; Novotel Ambassador Seoul Yongsan, which will provide 621 spacious, fully-appointed rooms with a simple design and non-partitioned spaces; Grand Mercure Ambassador Seoul Yongsan, featuring 202 serviced residences designed for families and long-stay guests; and ibis Styles Ambassador Seoul Yongsan, which will include 591 inspiring rooms with a bold design persona. www.accorhotels.com

NEWS

Luxury Indulgence Experience luxurious rejuvenation at the new La Prairie Spa at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills in California, USA. The new 465sqm wellness retreat comprises six private treatment rooms, steam rooms and experience showers, and offers a range of pampering experiences by premium skincare brand La Prairie, including facials, massages, body treatments, manicure and pedicure. The Ultimate Indulgence Body Treatment is a 120-minute stress-relieving indulgence, which includes a body exfoliation and wrap followed by a caviar massage. The 60-minute Caviar Lifting and Firming Facial features caviar pearls and a caviar-infused face and eye massage, which helps correct the tone of the complexion and moisturises the skin, leaving it feeling refreshed and firmed.

Catering for health-conscious guests, the 24-hour health club provides cutting-edge workout equipment and technology. www.waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com

Comfort in Style

Red Planet Nishiki, Nagoya will deliver travellers a home-away-from-home experience with a focus on comfort, convenience, and style, when it opens in Japan in November. Adding to the brand’s twenty-five hotels across four countries, the new 211-room property will provide accommodation options with quality custommade beds with upscale linen and 40-inch flatscreen TVs, along with complimentary high-speed wifi. Providing more convenience to millennials, the company’s app featuring an “In Stay mode” allowing guests to get in touch with the hotel front desk directly, explore local attractions, call an Uber, and enjoy discounts at over 200 restaurants located nearby Red Planet hotels. www.

redplanethotels.com

Indian Wilderness

Celebrity wildlife expert Joan Embery will host International Expeditions' March 15, 2018 voyage through Kaziranga National Park and down the Brahmaputra River, leading nature lovers into India's remote Assam region, home to rare wildlife, tea plantations and tribal villages. The river cruise will take guests to India's Kaziranga National Park, one of the few remaining parks to encounter the Asian one-horned rhino, while travellers will also spot endangered western hoolock gibbons and gangetic dolphins, in the shadows of the snow-covered Himalayas. A range of Indian cultural experiences will include sampling tea at a family-hosted lunch on a tea estate, learning about silk weaving, watching masked performances and meeting Kamlabari Satra priests.

After exploring the wilds of India, guests return to the deluxe 23-cabin Mahabaahu. www.ietravel.com SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 11

HOTELS

Skip the big cookie cutter hotels and become a local at one of these chic Mumbai boutique hotels.

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HOTELS

Abode Bombay Hotel

Boasting an elegant mix of modern luxury and colonial décor, Abode Bombay, located at the heart of the city, features spacious and contemporary guest rooms across four categories – we love the Superior Luxury rooms, with their deep soak tubs and iPod docking stations. Each guest room is a haven of peace, replete with Indian vintage furnishing, locally-produced art and cutting-edge technology. Kick start your day in the Abode Lobby & Library, a chic café popular with locals and guests alike, and at the end of your explorations return for a rejuvenating massage or a spot of yoga with a local guru. www.abodeboutiquehotels.com SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 13

HOTELS

Svenska Mumbai

Blending Swedish minimalist design with colourful touches of India’s rich heritage, Svenska Mumbai is a luxurious 31-room boutique retreat hidden away in Andheri. All rooms, including our favourite, the sole Luxury Suite, are generouslysized and feature private butler service, goose down duvets and pillows, iPod docking stations, and mood lighting. After a day haggling at the markets, indulge yourself with an in-room spa treatment, before having dining at the hotel’s signature Mediterranean restaurant, Miro. Alternatively, make for the Mesa Bistro, a casual and relaxing venue for some of the best Indian and Oriental dishes in town. On Friday or Saturday nights, the hotel’s Sky Lounge is the place to be for captivating sunsets and signature cocktails. www.svenskahotels.com

Waterstones Hotel

Located near Mumbai International Airport, Waterstones Hotel, once named India’s trendiest hotel, takes its inspiration from Mother Nature. Each floor of the hotel was individually designed, from the idyllic ‘glacier’ level to the bright ‘fire’ floor, while each of 99 nature-themed rooms feature breathtaking views of a serene waterfall, and a range of modern amenities, including 42-inch LCD TVs, minibars, and Bluetooth music docking stations.

Take a dip in the swimming pool or break a sweat at the state-of-the-art fitness centre and when you’ve worked up an appetite, treat yourself to a feast of exotic Pan-Asian fare at All Stir Fry, or stop over at the wood-panelled Van Gogh’s bar for an inspired cocktail or locally-produced rum. www.waterstoneshotel.com 14

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AIRLINE

PARADISE

BOUND

Whether you’re travelling for work or play, Cathay Pacific offers a world-class product on its flights between Hong Kong and the Maldivian capital, Malé, discovers Nick Walton.

Check-in/The Lounge We checked in for our flight using the Cathay Pacific app as we only had carry-on luggage for a short trip to the Maldives. This allowed us to quickly pick up a paper boarding pass at the dedicated Cathay Pacific Business Class counter at Hong Kong International Airport (I’m a little old school and still prefer paper than an image on a screen) and make our way through to The Bridge, one of Cathay Pacific’s five business class lounges (including the aptly named The Arrival). I’ve always liked The Bridge – turn left and you’re in a serene lounge with enough supplies to keep you sated a long while; turn right and you have access to a great buffet of cold and hot snacks and the airline’s signature Long Bar, which makes a mean martini. I’m also a fan of the airline’s Solus chairs, found in all their lounges, which offer solo travellers their own little cocoon. The lounge was very busy but we found a corner with great views over the apron. We later boarded from gate 28 onto an A330-300 aircraft.

First Impressions First impressions go a long way and Cathay Pacific is rather good at them, especially compared to many US or European carriers. There’s always a warm welcome at the aircraft door, and quick, attentive service as soon as you’ve settled into your seat. Once a staple of business class, carriers are increasingly leaving guests to fend for themselves – some travellers love it, others prefer the personal touch.

The A330 features 39 business class seats spread across a main cabin and a smaller one to the rear, with seats set in a 1-2-1 configuration.

The Seat I’m a big fan of the Cathay Pacific business class seat, mainly because I love privacy and functionality. With its reverse herringbone configuration (CX was the first to release this setup), large accessible tray, iPod, USB and AC outlets, twin personal lamps and large 15.4inch personal monitor, it’s a great lounge seat, a great work space and a great bed, although on this six-hour afternoon flight there would be little chance for a snooze. There’s leg room galore; the monitor clicks back into the seat-back for easy stowage; and there’s a great shoulder-height compartment for all those little essentials, including headphones, cables and glasses.

Service Cabin crew offered glasses of juice, water and chilled BillecartSalmon Brut Champagne, which is always a great way to start a flight. We were also offered newspapers and CX amenity kits filled with the usual assortment of miniature Jurlique products (our editorial team actually collects the kits and use them as pencil cases that we donate to schools in Myanmar). After we reached cruising altitude the crew jumped into action – again something that’s amiss on a few other carriers.

An early dinner started off with a well-made gin and tonic and a bowl of nuts, followed by a deliciously light and fragrant marinated and herbed smoked salmon and seared scallop salad with asparagus and pesto crème fraiche, and a seasonal mixed salad with balsamic dressing. Choices for dinner included fried grouper in soy sauce with mixed vegetables and jasmine rice; roasted lamb rack with spinach, mixed vegetable couscous, and tomato lamb sauce; chicken masala with jalfarezi vegetables and saffron rice; and potato gnocchi with roasted red capsicum, pumpkin, and a truffle cream sauce. I opted for the vegetarian main, which was perfectly cooked and well proportioned, leaving enough room for the cheese plate, which Cathay always does well, but not enough for the offered toffee cheesecake.

Entertainment After dinner, the cabin lights were dimmed and I flicked through the StudioCX entertainment system; I’m not much of a new release guy and tend to go for the classics but Cathay’s selection rarely disappoints and the fact I can use my own Bose noise cancelling headphones is a huge plus.

Summary We arrived on time at Velana International Airport after a very pleasant journey with an airline deserving of its place in the ranks of the world’s best. Business class Hong Kong – Male from US$2,367 per person. www.cathaypacific.com Note: The author travelled on a fully-paid business class ticket without the airline’s knowledge SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 15

CYCLING ROUTES

With the opening of the first phase of an ambitious new “bike autobahn” in Germany, Isabelle Lui looks at some of the world’s best routes for fans of two-wheel power.

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CYCLING ROUTES

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he recently opened 10km bike trail between Mühlheim and Essen is part of a planned 100-kilometre Radschnellweg, or bicycle fast lane, through Germany’s Ruhr Valley. At four metres wide, this cyclist-friendly trail takes in the rural bliss of the Main River and uses overpasses, disused railway lines and bridges to ensure a safe cycle experience. www.germany.info

Test yourself on the 1,000km Munda Biddi Trail, which runs from Mundaring to Albany through the eucalyptus trees of southwest Australia. On this challenging route you can immerse yourself in the region’s natural beauty as you pass through the Jarrah Forest, and along the spectacular coastline of William Bay National Park and Waterfall Beach before you reach Albany, the adventure hub of the southern state. www.mundabiddi.org.au The Route Des Grandes Alpes, a 1,000km alpine route running from Lake Geneva, through the French Alps, and down to the Mediterranean was made popular

by the Tour de France, which passes along the route.

Kick off at Thonon-les-Bains and enjoy the scenic beauty of the lakelands before climbing the Alps on an itinerary packed with towering waterfalls and plummeting gorges.

Finish off at garden-filled Menton, in southeast France. www.moveyouralps.com Despite its 5,000km length, even beginners can tackle Canada’s La Route Verte, also known as the Green Route, a well sign-posted trail that crosses Quebec east to west. The longest cycling route in North America, the Green Route affords travellers abundant sea and mountain views, from the beautiful riverside village of Kamouraska to the waterfront towns along the Saint Lawrence River. www.routeverte.com Take a journey from active Mount Ruapehu, in the central North Island, to the river town of Whanganui on the Mountains to Sea cycling route, part of the 2,500km New Zealand Cycle Trail. Capture the alpine beauty of the Tongariro National Park, and the native forests of southern Taranaki as you make for the Tasman Sea. http://nzcycletrail.com SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 17

ADVENTURE

JOURNEY ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WORLD The Northwest Passage has intrigued and fascinated Arctic explorers for centuries. Now, this challenging route is entering a new era of exploration, discovers Nick Walton.

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ADVENTURE

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ADVENTURE

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ith a plodding movement that’s lumbering and elegant all at once, the polar bear traces its way down a finger of partially submerged land, its nose in the air, the late afternoon light shimmering off the wet stones beneath its massive paws. Save for the gentle lapping of water against the zodiac’s hull and the cicada-like symphony of camera shutters, there is silence – none of us are even breathing as we soak in this blissfully close encounter. The adolescent male has done the opposite of what polar bears usually do when they encounter camera-toting travellers in Canada’s high arctic, and has stuck around to have a sniff of the frigid late summer air, giving our group, just feet away, the odd curious glance between nibbles of the countless beluga whale skeletons which litter beautiful Cunningham Inlet.

Northern Canada has been on my bucket list since I was a child, when I would gaze up at a school room map on which the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, a sprawl of more than 36,000 islands, was so dominant, so distant, so exotic. It seems I wasn’t the only one; the Northwest Passage, a 1,500-kilometre shortcut between Europe and Asia across the roof of North America, has fascinated explorers for centuries, with many losing their lives in its pursuit. Only in the past decade has melting ice opened a seasonal window during which ships might pass through unscathed, but despite an increasing number of cruise ships bound for the high arctic heralding in a tentative new era for the Passage, its dangers remain poignant.

I’m attempting the journey with Canadian polar junkies OneOcean, which offers a pair of Northwest Passage

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sailings annually on their stout Russian research vessel Akademik Ioffe. It’s a route that draws intrepid travellers for many reasons; there are avid birders hoping to spy red-throated loons, cackling geese and gyrfalcons. There are expedition cruisers who have ventured to the likes of Antarctica and Spitsbergen and are ticking the emerging route off their own lists. And there are history fans inspired by recent discoveries that have brought the Passage’s rich history to life once again.

Explorers have been searching for the Northwest Passage since Italian navigator John Cabot first attempted the journey in 1497, with Norwegian polar pioneer Roald Amundsen finally succeeding four centuries later. Since that first successful passage in 1906 there have been less than 250 transits (of which only 50 were operated by cruise vessels), with the majority taking place in the nine years since an “ice free” summer window was created by global warming. Despite the reduction of sea ice, the Northwest Passage remains a treacherous undertaking; in 2010, it took 40 hours to evacuate 120 passengers from the grounded Clipper Adventurer and passengers on the luxurious Crystal Serenity, which transited the Passage in in 2016, were reportedly required to take out US$50,000 evacuation insurance policies. Less a defined route than a myriad of possible waterways, of which less than 10 percent are charted, a cruise through the Northwest Passage today is as much an adventure as it was under sail.

However, there’s a big difference between watching the desolately-beautiful landscapes of Nunavut, the newest, largest, northernmost, and least populous territory of Canada, drift by while you wait for your sommelier to decide on a chardonnay, and actually tackling the destination like so many explorers past.

ADVENTURE

My fellow travellers and I had joined the 98-passenger Akademik Ioffe in Cambridge Bay, a tiny hamlet on Victoria Island that’s a common departure point for research vessels delving into the Arctic Ocean.

In many ways Cambridge Bay, with a population of just 2,000, spans eras of Arctic exploration. In the inlet, the timber and iron remains of The Maud, Amundsen’s ship from his second Arctic expedition have been returned to the surface as part of a multimillion dollar salvage effort. Her blackened hull is a stark contrast to the low-slung buildings of the state-of-the-art Canadian High Arctic Research Station, which is set to open at year’s end, bringing jobs and opportunities to this tiny, remote weigh station.

After a welcome from village elders we set sail southeast into Queen Maud Sound and our attempt at the Northwest Passage begins. The Akademik Ioffe may not have a signature spa or room service but she is perfectly suited for exploring the high Arctic. Leased

by OneOcean from Russian’s Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, the Ioffe boasts an ice-rated hull, comfortable ensuite cabins, a central dining room and bar, a sauna and presentation theatre, and for the more intrepid, a rooftop Jacuzzi. My cabin has everything you need and nothing you don’t, with plenty of storage, a comfortable single cot, and a shy cabin attendant who giggles at my stumbling Russian.

At the core of any OneOcean expedition is education.

The ship is run by a Russian crew but a full complement of guides and naturalists bring the destination to life with regular lectures and daily excursions, zodiac cruises and kayaking itineraries. Our guides include the eversmiling Atuat Shouldice, an Inuit guide and environmental inspector from Rankin; David Begg, a New Zealand mountain guide; and Katie Murray, a Scottish historian with a serious crush on Sir John Franklin.

Franklin’s ill-fated 1845 expedition, in which his two ships and 129 crew disappeared, inadvertently opening the Canadian Arctic Archipelago to exploration, with more than 50 unsuccessful rescue expeditions helping to define this vast and hostile territory. The Franklin Expedition’s demise has remained one of the most fascinating Arctic mysteries, baffling historians and researchers until September 2014, when the Victoria Strait Expedition, a modern-day search party that included the Akademik Ioffe, discovered Franklin’s HMS Erebus, submerged west of O’Reilly Island in Queen Maud Gulf. It was a major historic SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 21

ADVENTURE

discovery, and one bolstered by the discovery last September of its sister ship, HMS Terror. Now all eyes are on the Northwest Passage and the secrets these ships may reveal.

After our close encounter with the polar bears of Cunningham Inlet we trail pods of shy beluga whales back to the ship as the low-slung sun casts the clouds in a warm amber hue, rays of golden light occasionally penetrating the canopy with captivating effect. Cruising Bellot Strait the next morning passengers brave wicked winds on the bridge wings in search of musk oxen, ivory and herring gulls, and Arctic foxes. The Akademik Ioffe has an open bridge policy, allowing guests the chance to watch the Russian crew in action as we navigate this 25-kilometre, wafer-thin waterway between Somerset Island and the Boothia Peninsula, passing Zenith Point, the northernmost tip of mainland North America.

After cruising Prince Regent Inlet we cross Parry Sound and reach Beechey Island, a comparatively tiny islet at the southern tip of Devon Island, the largest uninhabited island in the world. Beechey is an important destination on the itinerary; first visited by European explorers in 1819, this is where Franklin and his crew wintered in

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1845-46 before disappearing. Remnants of his camp, which was not discovered until 1851, still remain, including the three grave stones of crew who didn’t survive the harsh winter, the monuments alone and stark on a vast stony beachhead, a solemn reminder of the cost of Arctic exploration. Researchers believe many of Franklin’s men died from lead poisoning, either from the lead-soldered tins of provisions or from the ship’s water distillation system, although there are more macabre tales of cannibalism and treachery at the end of the earth. As the wind whips across a natural breakwater between Lancaster Sound and Wellington Channel, Arctic terns gliding on the stiffening breeze, expedition leader Boris Wise cracks open a bottle of whisky and we toast to the explorers who sought to tame this lonely land so far from home.

We encounter our first real ice in Croker Bay as we follow the southern coast of Devon Island, a scene so devoid of life it’s used as a simulation of Mars by NASA. The northern most point of our cruise, Croker Bay is home to two towering glaciers, their jagged faces pockmarked with caves that reveal a shimmering aqua blue interior. We give way to a massive herd of harp seals before cruising the zodiacs close enough

ADVENTURE to the glaciers to hear the ice creak and groan. Katie picks up on our competitive streak and motors to our northern most point of the journey to a whop from her charges. We’re rewarded when the ship’s bartenders arrive dressed as ‘Arctic penguins’ with mugs of spiked hot chocolate.

The Arctic weather starts to flex its muscles that afternoon and we’re forced to view the abandoned Royal Canadian Mounted Police barracks at Dundas Harbour, where unlucky recruits would be marooned for two years at a time, from afar. As ocean swells heave the ship to and fro, a pair of Arctic wolves watch us from shore, two white dots on an expansive coffee-coloured landscape of rocky peaks. The OneOcean team takes the change in itinerary in stride and the captain sails us into Navy Board Inlet, which is protected by the towering peaks of Baffin Island to the west, and Bylot Island to the east. On the cusp of Eclipse Sound we land at Low Point, hiking to the top of a lichen-encrusted hill that offers brilliant views down to a grounded iceberg the size of an office block, which glistens and shimmers in the late afternoon sun.

As we emerge from Pond Inlet our transit through the Northwest Passage is at an end and we sail south down the east

coast of Baffin Island, one of the most sought-after destinations in the Canadian Arctic thanks to its spectacular coastal scenery, which includes the aptly named Sunshine Fjord, where towering rock faces plummet to mirror-calm waters kissed by a surprisingly intense late summer sun. We spot rare bowhead whales as we cross Isabella Bay, a protected whale sanctuary, arriving in the calm waters of Cumberland Sound, where a Hudson’s Bay Company whaling station has blossomed into the picturesque Inuit settlement of Pangnirtung. It’s a fitting finish to our expedition as we share tea smoked with Arctic heather with guides from the tiny hamlet; for the Inuit, who have learned to endure the Arctic’s temperaments, the Northwest Passage is a bountiful landscape, and one they are now prepared to share with the curious world beyond.

Travel Essentials

Air Canada offers flights to Edmonton via its hubs in Toronto and Vancouver, from where OneOcean charter flights depart. www.aircanada.com OneOcean will next offer its Classic Northwest itinerary in August 2018, starting from US$9,300 per person. www.oneoceanexpeditions.com

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ESSENTIALS

Make the most of magical wildlife encounters with the Canon 10x42 L IS WP waterproof professional binoculars. With a 10x magnification and ultra-low dispersion lens elements to correct chromatic aberration, these essential field glasses feature Canon’s renowned Super Spectra Coating for excellent colour and contrast, as well as a robust level 7 waterproof design for when nature doesn’t play nice. Suited for regular wildlife seekers intent on never missing a moment, the new glasses feature the largest field-of-view in the Canon range, as well as the closest focusing distance, ensuring a captivating viewing experience, no matter the weather. US$1,049; www.canon.com

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ESSENTIALS

PINT-SIZED PERFORMANCE Aside from its light weight and good looks, the new mirrorless medium format Hasselblad X1D offers precision and power galore. With a high-resolution rear LCD touchscreen that accesses the camera’s comprehensive menu, the new X1D also features a 2.4Mp electronic viewfinder, as well as a whopping 14 stops of dynamic range, allowing for unprecedented image detail in all shooting conditions. The new system is complemented by a new range of autofocus lenses specifically engineered to match the high-resolution capabilities of the X1D. www.hasselblad.com

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ESSENTIALS

a THEaTRE

Ideal for film and music lovers on long-haul flights, the ROYOLE MOON combines two Full HD 1080p AMOLED displays, at over 3,000 ppi resolution (simulating a giant 800-inch curved screen), with stereoscopic 3D, and active noise cancelling headphones, to deliver cinematic movie-watching experience on the go. Royole’s patented foldable design, ultra-soft headphone covers, and a premium breathable eye cover ensure comfort even after long periods of continuous use, while the 32GB (128GB upgrade available) of internal storage and five-hour battery life ensure entertainment that lasts the distance. www.royole.com

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ESSENTIALS

PICTURE PERFECT

Designed for lovers of travel selfies, the new retro-inspired mirrorless FUJIFILM X-A3 features a compact, lightweight body, and an LCD screen that tilts 180-degrees without being blocked by the camera, thus helping to maintain 100 percent visibility. Eye Detection AF improves self-portrait shooting even further, while a new Portrait Enhancer mode includes the option to brighten skin tones. With its newlydeveloped 24.2-megapixel APS-C sensor and Fujinon lens, this new travel companion ensures crystal clear images in a variety of shooting modes (including new film-inspired settings), while an ISO range extended to 25,600 helps shooting in low light situations. www.fujifilm.com

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PORT DOUGLAS

Far North Queensland has an amazing array of activities and attractions, which is why it’s one of Australia’s most popular destinations for family holidays.

Isabelle Lui checks out a few of her favourites.

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PORT DOUGLAS

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PORT DOUGLAS

E

xploring the 344,400-squarekilometre, Unesco-listed Great Barrier Reef is a must for any traveller bound for Far North Queensland, but you won’t want to share your experience with the masses, which is why Port Douglas, situated less than 70 kilometres from the thriving tourist hub of Cairns, is a great alternative. From here families can take regular day tours to the outer reef for a day spent snorkeling, sun-worshipping, and marveling at the rich marine ecosystem.

Get a little wild at Hartley's Crocodile Adventures, just 25 minutes south of Port Douglas, home to a myriad of Australia’s tropical inhabitants. There, nineteen 2.5-metre to 5-metre-long crocodiles can be observed 30

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closely while cruising the park’s lagoon. After learning about the coastal landscapes of northern Queensland and the importance of crocodiles in wetlands, you’ll hear more about the conservation efforts underway to protect this ancient species.

Perhaps the best place to admire the magnificence of a tropical rainforest is from the air. Sitting in one of Skyrail’s cable cars, you’ll have an aerial view of Barron River National Park’s rainforest as the vehicle glides over abundant canopies. During the ride, you’ll spy the Barron River Falls emerging from the lush bush, before disembarking at the two stops along the way to delve into the forest’s interior.

An alternative to the cableway is the Kuranda Scenic Train, which descends from Barron Gorge, passing across bridges adjacent to the awe-inspiring 243-metre Surprise Falls.

PORT DOUGLAS

A relaxing afternoon walk on Port Douglas’ popular Four Mile Beach is a must-try activity for nature-loving travellers. Spanning 10km along the Coral Sea coast, this scenic beach is sand bubbler crab territory, with thousands of tiny sand spheres thrown out from crab-drilled holes all over the beach. Be sure to time your visit for the beach’s dramatic sunsets.

Alternatively, early risers might prefer to catch the sunrise during an hour-long hot air ballooning experience with Hot Air Balloon Cairns, which offers postcard-perfect views of the coast. While you’re reaching 300 metres above the ground, the sun rises from the back of the mountains and the warmth of the sunlight hits your skin, contrasting the surrounding chilly air. Back on land, enjoy a luxury beachfront breakfast with champagne on Palm Cove. www.hotair.com.au/portdouglas A relaxing afternoon activity is cycling along the coastline from the Trinity Bay lookout through Port Douglas. Macrossan Street is lined with boutique shops and restaurants, perfect for souvenir shopping or dining. If you’re staying for the weekend, time your ride to coincide with the Sunday Markets, held near The Reef Marina. The markets, established 20 years ago, are open from 8am till 1.30pm and features a range of locally made handcrafts and the backdrop of Coral Sea. SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 31