Explorer Magazine (March-April 2016)

MARCH - APRIL 2016

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

THE

SOLOMON

ISLANDS Time Travel in the Pacific

SUNKEN TREASURE EUROPE’S FIRST UNDERWATER MUSEUM CANADA JOURNEY TO THE WEST

PER AQUUM RESORTS

CRYSTAL CRUISES

EMIRATES AIRLINES

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

W

elcome to another issue of Explorer, the eco-friendly digital

travel

magazine

for true world wanderers.

We have something for every traveller in this exciting issue, from culture to adventure to luxury. We kick off in Canada, where Andrea Oschetti flies, trains, and mountain bikes his way through some of North America’s most beautiful scenery. Then it’s down to the depths of the South Pacific, where Dan Walton explores the stunning and remote Solomon Islands, home to acclaimed diving, lost tribes and many welcoming smiles. Nick Walton makes his way to the Indian Ocean in search of luxury, with visits to three of his favourite Maldivian resorts, Per Aquum Niyama, Huvafen Fushi, and Naladhu, while Maggie Chooi experiences new levels of comfort at 35,000ft thanks to Emirates’ ground-breaking A380 product in our regular airline review. We also toast all things brewed in Southwest Germany, which has plenty to celebrate about in 2016, and reveal the ambitious plans of luxury line Crystal Cruises, which has domination of the seven seas firmly in its sights. Where ever you’re travelling this month,and whether you’re looking for adventure or indulgence, we hope Explorer continues to excite and inspire.

Safe travels.

David Leung Publisher

CONTRIBUTORS Andrea Oschetti is a travel journalist and award winning photographer based in Hong Kong. In addition to contributing to leading regional titles like Jetsetter, The South China Morning Post, and Action Asia, he is often asked to comment on travel trends in key forums like TEDx.

Adventurous, well-travelled and fluent in four languages, Malaysia-born Maggie Chooi has worked in the travel industry for the past six years.

During that time she has been regularly exposed to the finer things in life, and in this issue she recounts her favourite experiences in Emirates’ award-winning business class on a flight between Hong Kong and Dubai.

Dan Walton is a Sydney-based creative and photographer with a passion for travelling far from the beaten path. He has explored India by motorbike, eastern Africa by 4x4 and Antarctica by expedition ship.

In this issue he explores above and below the waves of the Solomon Islands.

WORLD IN PICS

5

Renowned New York LEGO brick artist Nathan Sawaya’s latest work grace some of Sydney’s most iconic locales.

Credit: Destination NSW

A Bengal tiger in Kerala. Tiger safaris are proving great tourism drawcards for India.

Credit: Tourism Kerala.

From Lego art down under to luxury wildlife camps in Kenya, we capture the best travel experiences for the season ahead.

Chapman’s Peak Drive remains one of the most beautiful drives along South Africa’s Cape Peninsula.

Credit: Cape Town Tourism

The sun sets the skies above Istanbul’s Sultan Ahmed Mosque aflame.

Credit: Another World Adventures

www.explorer-magazine.com

6

WHAT’S HAPPENING

King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament March 10 – 13, 2016 Bangkok, Thailand

Taste of Hong Kong

March 10 – 13, 2016 Central Habourfront, Hong Kong

Held by the banks of Bangkok’s mighty Chaophraya River, the 14th Anantara’s King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament will see ten teams from around the world go head to head on the back of the Kingdom’s national animal. Look out for special guests like New Zealand All Blacks rugby players and the famous transgender cabaret team Miss Tiffany. Well-suited to family, this year’s event will also include a spectacular Opening Parade and the Children’s Educational Day. www.anantaraelephantpolo.com

The globally-renowned Taste Festival, which has been organised in 22 destinations worldwide, will launch in Hong Kong as its first foray in Asia. Twelve of the city’s most celebrated restaurants will cook over 40 signature dishes for both local and international foodies.

An array of interactive master classes, cooking demonstrations and wine tastings will also be on offer at the harbourfront festival ground. www.tasteofhongkong.com

Art Beijing 2016

Las Fallas

May 1 – 3, 2016 Beijing, China The largest art expo in China, Art Beijing is a must-go event for art lovers from around the world. Spanning an exhibition area of over 25,000sqm, the event will bring together more than 140 local and international galleries and art organisations to showcase an extensive range of contemporary art. A variety of art platforms and education forums will also be curated for idea exchanges and intellectual conversations. www.artbeijing.net www.explorer-magazine.com

March 15 – 19, 2016 Valencia, Spain A traditional celebration held in commemoration of Saint Joseph in the city of Valencia, Las Fallas will present over 370 full-scale fallas – unique wooden structures covered with painted papier-mâché - and 368 children’s fallas mounted throughout the city. This extravaganza will also encompass a variety of parades with different themes and dedicated to different spirits, as well as streetlight and firework displays. www.fallasfromvalencia.com

WHAT’S HAPPENING

St. Patrick's Festival

7

Rouketopolemos

March 17 - 20, 2016 Dublin, Ireland

March 26 – 27, 2016 Chios, Greece

A one-of-a-kind national holiday packed with green-clad revellers and Irish beer, St. Patrick's Festival is a four-day carousing spree showcasing the talents and achievements of the people of Ireland.

The climax of the festival will be the parade on March 17, featuring uplifting rhythms played by bands from the USA, Brittany and Ireland, as well as a spectacular procession bursting with colour and theatrics. www.stpatricksfestival.ie

Celebrate Easter in style this year on the island of Chios, in Greece, where you can witness over 60,000 rockets being fired between two churches in the parishes of Saint Mark and Virgin Mary Erethianis.

Carried out in good spirit, the annual spectacular Rouketopolemos (Rocket War) between the two opposing camps will start at around 8pm on Saturday and go into the early hours. www.rocketwar.gr

King’s Day

April 27, 2016 Amsterdam, Netherland The King’s Day is a birthday celebration of the Dutch monarch as well as an open-air festival of joy. Expect to see revellers decked out in orange as a show of pride for the Dutch royal family, the House of Orange-Nassau. The young ones can check out the face-painting stalls and sport events, while mothers can haggle and bargain in the thriving vrijmarkt (flea market). www.iamsterdam.com

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival April 22 – May 1, 2016 New Orleans, United States

Music enthusiasts should make a pilgrimage to New Orleans – the birth place of jazz - and soak in the atmosphere of the annual Jazz and Heritage Festival, which will feature a strong music line-up, including Steely Dan, Paul Simon, and The Red Hot Chili Peppers. Visitors will also have a chance to see local artisans showcase ancient crafting techniques, dine on authentic Cajun cuisine, and source exquisite handicrafts at the Congo Square African Marketplace. www.nojazzfest.com

www.explorer-magazine.com

8

NEWS

Get your Christmas fix six months early by joining the Christmas in July cruises aboard PS Murray Princess in July, 2016. The new trips offered by Captain Cook Cruises combine popular three, four and seven night cruise itineraries on South Australia’s Murary River with Christmas festivities, including a traditional Christmas dinner or lunch, a range of Christmas-themed activities, games and music, and a visit from Santa with presents for all guests. Sit back in one of two cosy paddlewheel lounges and enjoy the beauty of the river as the Murray Princess cruises past picturesque gorges and along riverbanks lined with mallee scrub and red gum forests and leave time for exciting day trips to historic ports, sacred Aboriginal sites, and a native wildlife shelter. www.murrayprincess.com.au

Biking Adventure

The Novotel Phu Quoc Resort has opened on Long Beach, one of the most beautiful white-sand beaches on the largest island in Vietnam, offering views of turquoise waters and lush vegetation, as well as a range of exciting activities. Conveniently located near Duong Dong town, the resort is close to many of Phu Quoc’s top attractions, such as Sao Beach, Ham Ninh fishing village and various pearl farms, and boasts 366 contemporary spacious rooms, including 120 suites and villas. Each room features a king-sized bed, a balcony or terrace, and a 42-inch LCD TV, while 20 of the villas offer private pools. Guests can sate their appetite at Food Exchange, which features international cuisines with live cooking stations, or at Specialty, which serves fresh seafood and local delicacies. www.accorhotels.com www.explorer-magazine.com

Christmas in Summer

SpiceRoads Cycle Tours has launched a new adventure, Thailand to Singapore by Road Bike, which offers intrepid travellers the chance to tackle three countries and 1,339km in 15 days.

The tour will start in Krabi, from which guests will ride along the Andaman Coast of Thailand on mostly flat terrain, through thick forests and plantations. They will have the opportunities to visit historic George Town on Penang Island in Malaysia and explore the rich traditions of Malacca, which was declared a Unesco-listed site in 2008, before reaching the dynamic city-state of Singapore. The trip will be fully supported by expert guides and an air-conditioned bus will be on hand to pick up riders in need of a break. www.spiceroads.com

Family Friendly Island Escape

NEWS

Family Fun

London-based Jacada Travel has launched a series of bespoke trips to Europe in 2016, allowing travellers the chance to explore the hidden mysteries of European history and architecture and embark on a gourmet culinary journey.

Highlights of some of the unique tour experiences include taking an afternoon tea baking class at a private home in charming Notting Hill; a visit to the world's first submarine wine aging laboratory in Spain; and a chance to see the crown jewels in the Tower of London on a private tour. Intrepid souls can take part in an adrenaline inducing underwater excavation in Zadar, Croatia; while history buffs can enjoy a private tour of the Vatican museums in Rome, without tourist crowds. www.jacadatravel.com

9

Shangri-La's Le Touessrok Resort & Spa now offers teenagers and children the opportunity to enjoy its chic stretch of tropical paradise as much as their parents. The dedicated T-Club consists of a Teens Club, which offers horse-riding experiences, discos and a dedicated juice bar; while a separate Kids Club features a pizza oven, a pool, and a tree house.

To make the most of your stay, book the Teenage Mauritius package, which include a full-day island hopping excursion by speed boat; a private barbecue dinner at Chef's Garden; a 60-minute spa treatment for two adults and two teenagers in CHI, The Spa; two tennis classes; a bike tour around the resort; and a stand-up paddle board lesson. www.shangri-la.com

Europe Exploration

Thai Oasis

AccorHotels has opened the Baraquda Pattaya MGallery by Sofitel in the heart of Thailand beach playground Pattaya, within walking distance of many shopping, dining and entertainment venues. Boasting a cutting-edge nautical design, the hotel features 60 Deluxe Rooms, eight Baraquda Suites and four Baraquda Grand Suites, which are decorated in warm sandy tones. Guests can sit back and watch the world go by over a cup of fresh Lavazza coffee and a slice of delectable homemade cake at Nauti-CafĂŠ or capture stunning sunsets at the hotel's rooftop bar, before sating their appetite at SEA Restaurant and enjoying refreshing cocktails at the Pool Bar. In addition to a luxury spa, the hotel also boasts a fully equipped state-of-the-art-fitness centre, a kids club and a large outdoor swimming pool. www.hotelbaraquda.com www.explorer-magazine.com

10 NEWS

Portuguese Charm

Mission Hills Centreville Haikou has opened in Hainan and is set to become one of the trendiest lifestyle destinations in China. Covering a vast area of 240,000sqm, the low-carbon-footprint urban complex is divided into four different zones. The LanKwai Fong Entertainment Zone boasts a range of world-class restaurants, trendy nightclubs, and entertainment hotspots; while the Quarry Lake features a spectacular multi-sensory water fountain show. The family-friendly entertainment hub China Grove features a Cineplex large-screen theatre, equipped with state-of-the-art technology and a variety of multi-media entertainment facilities, including Hainan Island’s first teddy bear museum. For retail therapy, head to the HNDF & MH International Shopping Centre at the Fashion Avenue, home to a vast collection of international fashion labels and luxury brands. www.missionhillschina.com

Serene Seclusion

www.explorer-magazine.com

Starwood has opened the Sheraton Cascais Resort, formerly the Vivamarinha Hotel & Suites, on Portugal’s sweeping Atlantic coast, only 30 minutes from Lisbon and about a mile from the famous Guincho Beach, one of the finest surfing spots in Europe. Comprising 138 beautifully-appointed rooms and suites, the luxurious resort features a signature restaurant and two bars, as well as a wide range of leisure facilities. Guests can work out in the state-of-the-art fitness centre, take a dip in the outdoor swimming pool, or indulge in the expansive spa, complete with six treatment rooms and a hydrotherapy suite.

A perfect location for golfers, the luxurious resort is surrounded by seven of Portugal’s top golf courses, all within a 30-minute drive. www.starwoodhotels.com

Lifestyle Destination

Travellers looking for a secluded paradise in the Indian Ocean should not go past the new Amari Havodda Maldives, located within the pristine Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll, approximately 400km south of the capital Male. Created by French designer Isabelle Miaja, the luxurious resort offers 120 guest villas with beachfront or overwater options, each featuring a king-size bed, a tropical outdoor covered bathroom, a free-standing bathtub, and an outdoor terrace. Head to the all-day dining restaurant, Amaya Food Gallery for dishes inspired by the street food culture of Asia, or dine in Ember Robayataki, which specialises in the Japanese culinary tradition of fireside cooking. Active crowds can thrill themselves with a range of exciting water-based activities through the water sports and dive centres; while the sedate can indulge in the signature Breeze Spa. www.amari.com

NEWS

Ultimate Escape

If you’re looking for a wildlife encounter without sacrificing creature comforts, Mambeti Camp by Norman Carr Safaris, set to open in early 2017 in the Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia, has the answer for you. Located on the upper Munde stream, a site chosen for its sweeping vistas and wildlife variety, Mambeti Camp will comprise six luxury villas, including a two-bedroom family villa with a capacity of 15 guests. Designed by acclaimed lodge architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, the contemporary camp is a perfect base from which to explore the African landscape, Liuwa is home to the second biggest wildebeest migration in Africa, a burgeoning hyena population, as well as cheetahs, wild dogs, zebras, buffalo, red lechwe, tessebe herds, and more than 300 bird species. www.normancarrsafaris.com

Coastal Beauty

11

Located in the picturesque village of Franschhoek, South Africa, Leeu Estates will open in June 2016, offering travellers the ideal setting for an elegant and sophisticated private getaway. Taking a central position on 68 hectares of vineyards and landscaped gardens, the hotel boasts 17 luxurious rooms, suites and cottages, with carefully curated artwork and sculptures from various countries. The Dining Room will showcase the finest locally sourced organic produce; while The Wine Studio will offer guests the chance to savour handcrafted premium wines from the award-winning Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines. Make time to enjoy a treatment inspired by centuries-old Asian traditions at The Leeu Spa, swim a few laps in the heated infinity swimming pool, or sign up for a yoga class in the TechnoGym. www.leeucollection.com

Safari Base

AccorHotels has opened the Grand Mercure Qingdao Nanshan Resort in Qingdao, offering a luxurious retreat in the beautiful coastal city of Shandong province, China.

The resort features 508 contemporary guest rooms and suites, each with a king-size bed, an open seascape balcony, a 40-inch LCD TV, and complimentary wifi.

Guests can tantalise their taste buds with an extensive range of global cuisines at Sunshine Global Western Restaurant, or sample authentic Chinese fare and fresh seafood at Linhai Xuan. The Lobby Bar is a perfect spot from which to escape from the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy an evening cocktail, while the Cigar Bar allows guest the chance to unwind with a cigar and a glass of wine in time for the beautiful sunset over the Aoshan Bay. www.accorhotels.com

www.explorer-magazine.com

AUCKLAND 12 CANADA

www.explorer-magazine.com

CANADA

13

Journey

TO THE WEST The authenticity that we seek in our travel is what we want from the world. Western Canada delivers on two of our most intimate longings: the sense of adventure and the experience of nature, discovers

Andrea Oschetti.

www.explorer-magazine.com

14 CANADA

I

am travelling the Northwest of Canada

Airport, I arrive at the Sweat Lodge, a dome-

deliberately

different

shaped hut used by the indigenous people of

modes; walking and cycling embody

North America for ceremonial steam baths and

On my second day in Vancouver I take a guided

the slow, old ways of moving through

prayer. Its importance lies in the need to re-

walk through Stanley Park with Candace Campo,

the landscape: the train and the light

purify one's self and reconnect with traditional

a First Nations Shishalh of the Wolf clan, to

plane are the fast and marvellous

ways of living. In the darkness of the lodge,

understand the aboriginal relationship with

machines by which the modern world

Shoshoni elder Old Hand pours water on the hot

nature, which is grounded in respect. Candace is

stones and tells me: “the Sweat Lodge makes

an artist, a social advocate and an entrepreneur

you think freely, it’s the place to become what

who started Talasay Tours, a business dedicated

you are, not what society wants you to be.�

to teaching tourists about her heritage through

using

four

was able to open the Wild West.

Vancouver isn't just the geographical gateway of my journey, but offers unique opportunities

marina-side hotels.

cultural and eco-experiences on kayak and on

to experience the culture of the Aboriginal

The sweat ceremony is one of many authentic

Canadians thanks to a diverse travel menu that is

cultural amenities offered by Skwachays Lodge.

both accessible and authentic. By experiencing

Owned and operated by the Vancouver Native

A visit to the permanent collection of the

the traditional ways of the indigenous people,

Housing Society, Skwachays is a new boutique

acclaimed

who for centuries lived in the places that I am

hotel come art gallery, with themed rooms

1998) is the best opportunity to appreciate

about to visit. I am seeking to broaden the

created by aboriginal artists. Located in central

aboriginal northwest coast art in Vancouver.

perspective of my travel experience.

Gastown, one of the city's most vibrant and

The temporary exhibition Box of Treasures

historic neighbourhoods it offers an experience

particularly captures my imagination. It features

unlike any you'll find in the business district and

masks used in the Kwakwaka'wakw potlatch

One hour after I land at Vancouver International

www.explorer-magazine.com

foot.

Haida

artist

Bill

Reid

(1920-

CANADA

15

ceremony, a celebration where dancers follow the rhythms of log drums and powerful singers, animating the masks and unfolding ancient stories surrounding the Man-Eater Birds, the Spirits of the Forest, the Chief of the Undersea, and other beings of the supernatural realm.

The parallel is singular, but in my meanderings around Vancouver I found the strongest similarity to the Aboriginal’s affection for nature in the city’s dining scene. Searching for the best places to eat, I met up with two young chefs, Alex Chen of Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar and Ron Shaw of Grapes & Soda. They cherish nature and value the benefit to health and taste of local organic farming and fresh products, like Candace Campo and Old Hand would. Alex and Ron lead the Vancouver trend: quality food from farm to table.

www.explorer-magazine.com

16 CANADA

I leave Vancouver by taking a train to Banff and Jasper National Parks, the most breathtaking of Canada's great outdoor attractions. The journey itself is a treat: this was the railway that opened up the West. The luxurious Rocky Mountaineer train service follows the old route to Banff, rushing past fast rivers, deep gorges and mountain passes. As I’m pampered with gourmet meals in the glass domed coach, I feel the same excitement as the prospectors, surveyors, missionaries, trappers, mountain men and other explorers of the wild frontier who travelled this route more than 100 years ago.

Off the train, I continue my journey on foot, slower, alone and self-reliant, embracing the

Over five days I cross several protected parks

country lodges, no helicopters fly in here. It

philosophy that without challenge I cannot test

with well maintained trails and wilderness areas

is also located at the heart of one of the most

my limitations.

with unmarked tracks. I traverse great forests,

stunning landscapes that I have encountered on

climb over mountain passes, ford rivers, at all

this trip.

I set off from Peter Lougheed Provincial Park,

times immersed in wildlife. In the evening I set

100km south of Banff to venture northbound

up camp, build a fire, and sit in silence in the

I continue the “slow” part of my journey on two

for 150km along the Rocky Mountain’s Great

majestic valleys of the Rockies, content with a

wheels, along the Icefield Parkway, one of the

Divide Trail. It is a spectacular journey but

deep sense of satisfaction.

most spectacular roads in the world, stretching 232km from Jasper to Banff. I'm in good hands

unrecognised yet by the Canadian authorities.

This is the natural continuation of the Pacific

My hike in the wild ends in style as I arrive at

– Rocky Mountain Cycle Tours, operating since

Crest Trail, which has experienced a recent

one of the original great retreats of the Rockies:

1977, is possibly the most experienced local

spike in popularity after the movie adaption of

the Shadow Lake Lodge. Built in 1928 as one of

bicycle tour company in the area.

Cheryl Strayed's book, Wild. For many hikers

the network of huts designed to provide shelter

this walk constitutes a dream: to hike a trail

for back-country hiking and riding parties, the

Together with five fellow riders, I travel in

not simply off the beaten track, but before it

lodge is accessible only on foot or by cross

the shadow of majestic mountain ranges and

becomes popular.

country ski via a 22km route. Unlike other back-

gargantuan glaciers, stopping by turquoise

www.explorer-magazine.com

CANADA

17

lakes for impromptu barbecues prepared by our support team. We pose proudly for photographs next to road signs warning tourists to stay inside their vehicle if approached by a bear.

My final means of transportation is de Havilland Canada

DHC-2

propeller-driven

floatplane,

known as "the Beaver," that in the mid 20th century made it possible to connect the region’s most isolated corners to the world and today to visit the most pristine natural wonders.

TYAX Adventures uses a remote luxury lodge in the South Chilcotin Mountains - accessible from Vancouver or Whistler - as a base for guided adventures

on

foot,

mountain

bike

and

horseback.

The floatplane takes me and my mountain bike to a remote alpine lake deep in the backcountry.

Assisted by a guide, I ride over three days along tight single track trails through spectacular mineral-rich mountains with fast and sandy descents. We spend the nights sleeping at Tayax’s fully stocked backcountry camps.

The outdoor opportunities on offer by TYAX will appeal to everyone with a sense of adventure.

The atmosphere is different from the mountain bike tour, but the level of excitement is the same as I join a “flightsee” tour and land on a remote glacier in British Columbia. There, I accompany two glaciologists from the University of Victoria who are studying ancient weather patterns by analysing tree logs unearthed by retreating glaciers.

Standing on this remote glacier where only a handful of people have set foot is a true luxury, one of many such feelings I've had on this trip.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Skwachays Lodge: www.skwachays.com Talaysay Tours: www.talaysay.com Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art: www.billreidgallery.ca Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar: www.boulevardvancouver.ca Grapes & Soda: www.grapesandsoda.ca Rocky Mountaineer: www.rockymountaineer.com Great Divide Trail Association: www.greatdividetrail.com Shadow Lake Lodge: www.shadowlakelodge.com Rocky Mountain Cycle Tours: www.rockymountaincycle.com Tyax Adventures: www.tyaxadventures.com

www.explorer-magazine.com

18 SOLOMON ISLANDS

TIME TRAVEL

IN THE PACIFIC Step back in time in the South Pacific’s remote Solomon Islands, a destination as focused on preserving its past as it is on capturing its future. Words and Photos by Dan Walton. www.explorer-magazine.com

SOLOMON ISLANDS

A

s I remove the regulator from my mouth and

the Solomons, that parts of the country still trades in the traditional

delicately manoeuvre my weightless body into

currency bata, or shell money, using shells, feathers, and even

the black cocoon below, I fight off a wave of

dolphin teeth in lieu of money. Try buying a beer at the pool bar of

apprehension which threatens to engulf me. An

your all-inclusive Hawaiian resort with a handful of shells or a few

eel-like joystick slowly emerges from the abyss,

dolphin teeth, and see how far it gets you.

19

taunting me with its sharpened coral teeth as I continue descending, my naked feet greeted by the cool touch of dilapidated metal. I’m in.

No, the Solomons is not your average destination; it’s a little rough around the edges, like an adolescent searching for its role in life -

My apprehension is understandable when I reflect on my

unruly yes, but honest. There are no glitzy five star resorts, designer

surroundings; I’m currently holding my breath, 22m below the

shopping malls or mixologists here. Instead, the wild, unmasked

ocean surface, sitting in the cockpit of a WWII American Hellcat

purity that both the islands and its people have retained is beginning

fighter plane brought down by Japanese anti-aircraft fire. But then

to attract travellers – especially intrepid scuba divers – seeking an

again there are worse places to celebrate your 34th birthday.

authentic, innate connection with nature while it still exists.

I arrived in the Solomon Islands, a mysterious Melanesian

I touch down at the beginning of my trip in the capital Honiara, on

archipelago still in its tourism infancy, intent on discovering as

the now infamous island of Guadalcanal. Its name echoed around the

many of its hidden secrets as time would allow. Seven days later

globe in early August 1942 as it saw some of the bloodiest flighting

I will emerge a new man, having swum through the torpedo hole

during the WWII Pacific campaign. Remains from this brutal chapter

of a sunken Japanese warship; uncovered sacred human remains,

in history still scar the face of this pristine land, each a sombre

ruminants of a not-so-distant cannibalistic past; and witnessed the

reminder of how a virtually unknown corner of the world was thrust

traditional ritual of ‘dolphin calling’, during which locals summon

into the 20th century in the worst possible way.

wild dolphins from the open seas as if they were family pets.

While the entire Island has essentially become a living museum, The Solomon Islands are truly the final frontier of the South Pacific,

WWII aficionados should head to Vilu, one of the more impressive

and a worthy reward waiting for anyone who wants to get off the

open-air museums. Located 45 minutes to the east of Honiara,

tourist conveyer belt and sample life as it was, and in many ways

the museum’s collection includes the American P-38G Lightening

really should be.

fighter plane that shot down Isoroku Yamamoto, admiral of the Imperial Japanese Navy.

Situated northwest of Vanuatu and to the east of Papua New Guinea, this hidden, enigmatic archipelago consists of a scattering of nearly

Taking off from Henderson airfield, my journey takes me towards

one thousand pristine islands, many of which remain completely

the remote western provinces, in search of adventure. Below, the

untouched by human civilisation. So unaffected by the new world is

lush jungle-covered islands take on an entirely new dimension,

www.explorer-magazine.com

20 SOLOMON ISLANDS turtles, eagle rays and of course the cacophony of colourful reef fish that call the site’s abundant coral beds home.

Entering the ship’s cargo hold, I spy the remains of a Type 21 tank, surrounded by scattered rounds of ammunition, and of course dozens of large bottles of ‘sea-aged’ sake.

However if it’s sea life you’re after, then ask Danny to take you to Grand Central Station. Due to the convergence of oceanic currents, this site has become world-renown for having the second highest fish count on the planet; it’s common for as many as 270 different species of fish being spotted on a single tank dive.

Emerging from the shadowy depths mesmerised and enchanted, the sun now low and rich in colour, painting the surrounding landscape with a golden brush, we cruise west to the famous Fatboys resort (solomonislandsfatboys.com.au), for a much needed ice cold Sol Brew. An almost cult-like establishment, Fatboys has dug its heels in as ‘the’ place to stay in this secluded, remote corner of the globe.

As I sit on the deck of the resort’s expansive overwater bar, I watch the local chef discard fish heads into the shallow waters with a smile in his eyes. Within moments the water is filled with the grey bulk of a half dozen reef sharks, all jouncing with each other like excited puppies. I take a sip of my brew, watch the transforming themselves into a scattering of emeralds on an ever-expanding turquoise blanket. It’s from the air that the Solomon archipelago can truly be appreciated. Expansive, pristine coral atolls and lush uninhabited islands force the romanticised deserted tropical island existence into mind.

Our first stop is Ghizo Island…well nearly. Due to the topography of Ghizo, the closest runway was created on neighbouring, pint-sized Nusatupe Island, located only a few hundred metres from the mainland. This means guests arrive at their hotel in true style, traversing the azure lagoon by boat.

The scream of the water taxi’s engine dulls, and is replaced by the buzz of the quaint port town of Gizo. A curly-haired expat straddling a rusted bicycle at the edge of the rickety pier extends his hand, and a warm American smile.

Danny Kennedy and his wife Kerrie have been in Gizo for over three decades and together they not only run Dive Gizo (divegizo.com) but also help keep the island afloat; a former island mayor, what Danny doesn’t know about Gizo, above and below, isn’t worth the time it takes to learn.

The diving in the Solomon Islands is amongst the best and most exhilarating in the world, with a vast array of dive sites offering everything from coral reefs with some of the highest fish counts on the planet, to historic and confronting WWII wrecks. It truly is an unspoilt, underwater Eden that divers can enjoy virtually alone.

“Have you ever swum through a torpedo hole?” cries my excitable guide over the screech of the outboard. Our small craft skims over the shallow, translucent tropical waters as we make our way to our first dive site, the resting place of the ill-fated Toa

Maru. The Japanese transport ship was sunk by an American torpedo in 1942, and now rests 25m below the surface, relatively intact after all these years. The 140m vessel sunk before it could be off-loaded, which makes for a virtual underwater museum for any keen diver. The only other visitors you have to contend with are

www.explorer-magazine.com

sun’s final rays disappear into the waves, and embrace just how special this place is.

The following day a 20-minute flight lands me in the minuscule town of Munda, the largest settlement on the island of New Georgia, the largest island in the Western Provinces, and the cradle of the Roviana culture. Once home to some of the most feared head-hunters in the Solomon Islands, the island remains scattered with evidence of a cannibalistic past that is more recent that most might expect. In fact, the last ‘unofficial’ act of cannibalism was rumoured to have occurred in 1913 when

SOLOMON ISLANDS

21

an English trader was reportedly consumed after offending the local tribal elders.

Upon landing on the dusty strip, I make my way by foot from the quaint airport to Anges Gateway Lodge

(agneshotelsolomon.com),

idyllically

perched on the waterfront of the island-studded Roviana Lagoon. Established shortly after the Solomons received Independence in 1976, this 28-room family-run lodge is a primary port of call for anyone needing local advice on the island’s diving and fishing expeditions, WW2 tours and cultural village excursions. Appropriate a seat under one of the cool Bayan trees, order some locally-squeezed bush lime juice, and watch traders, fishermen and families traverse the lagoon beyond.

A stay in Munda isn’t complete without a trip to Kundu Hite, the infamous Skull Island. This miniscule tropical island, bristling with palm trees, is home to the sacred remains of the Rovianan tribal dynasty. Their bones lie like

Sublimely

trophies on a podium of coral, silently watching

mangroves at a hidden river mouth on the

over their former kingdom.

mountainous Island of Rendova, an hour’s boat

tucked

away

among

secluded

ride from Munda, Titiru is like stepping back It’s possible to spend weeks traversing this

into a nearly forgotten time. An eco-resort with

magnificent cyan-hued lagoon and its enveloped

a true heart at its core, Titiru is the creation of

islands. But there’s one concealed village that

enigmatic local personality Kilo Paza, and was

feels a little more special than the rest. Titiru.

designed to make a genuine contribution to both its surrounding environment and to the people of

Titiru Eco Lodge (facebook.com/titiru.ecolodge)

its neighbouring village.

nothing but their bare hands. The practice is rarely performed today but Kilo is trying to revive this nearly lost art, with plans on making it an annual event that will bring new visitors to this remote coastline.

I return to Honiara in body alone, as part of my heart will undeniably remain forever in Titiru, and the western provinces of this inexplicable

delivers intrepid world wanderers its own quandary: do you utter a single word of its

Offering

existence to other like-minded travellers, and

each concealed in its own colourful array of

risk its eventual desecration, or do you submit to

fragrant orchards and vivid zazala plants, the

your selfish side and stay silent, instead enjoying

lodge is proud of what it doesn’t offer, including

its stunning natural beauty with a fateful few?

electricity, internet access and television. Instead

gorgeously

tasked with wrestling a dolphin onto shore using

hand-crafted

cottages,

guests are lovingly reminded of the benefits of speaking face to face, rather than Facebooking.

As dinner is served, each traditional dish is enthusiastically narrated by Kilo, from how his harvest has been, to the methodical preparation required, and of course where the best fish are found. Everything is grown and caught locally and sustainably.

As evening encircles our smoky, aromatic campfire and I sip on a dram of native bush lime juice, Kilo explains the timeless ritual of ‘dolphin calling’ possessed by the native people

land. Here, after an intensive week reconnoitring the islands, I seek refuge and contemplation at the iconic Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel (kitanomendana.com), one of the nation’s few luxuriously enclaves, and a popular hub for island-bound travellers looking to explore Guadalcanal.

As my flight home climbs higher, I watch the vibrant colours of this secret Eden disappear beneath a shroud of white, as if being reclaimed

by Mother Nature. I know something in me has awoken. A sprit that feels foreign, yet equally familiar. A magnetic appreciation that’s pulling my heart back to a place that a week earlier I knew nothing about. Perhaps it’s my inner islander, burning to escape city life and reconnect with the world we knew, but have somehow forgotten.

of neighbouring Melita. Traditionally the men of

Travel Essentials

the island would paddle out in dugout canoes,

Get There: Solomon Airlines link Honiara

and hit two stones together under the water. The

with Sydney, Brisbane and Nadi in Fiji. www. flysolomons.com

sound would beacon entire pods of dolphins, which they would shepherd towards the shore.

A coming of age ordeal, young men would be

More info: www.visitsolomons.com.sb

www.explorer-magazine.com

22 MALDIVES

THE GREAT INDIAN OCEAN ESCAPE NICK WALTON VISITS THREE OF THE MOST ROMANTIC RESORTS IN THE

MALDIVES TO DISCOVER THE FUTURE OF THE WORLD’S FAVOURITE INDIAN OCEAN PLAYGROUND. www.explorer-magazine.com

MALDIVES

T

23

here’s only one real way to do

intention, an increasing number want to balance

shower, a bathroom with deep soak tub, and a

breakfast when you’re in the

out all that relaxation with activities that excite,

cavernous lounge that looks out to the sea. On our

Indian Ocean, and that’s seven

inspire and even educate.

first night the pink sky is captured in a reflection that runs the length of our private plunge pool, the

metre below the surface of a stunning turquoise lagoon at

Per Aquum Niyama is an island that’s always

mirror-like waters of the lagoon only metre away

SubSix, the underwater restaurant

reinventing itself; in fact it’s technically two

across a pristine, deserted beach.

and event space at Per Aquum Niyama, one of

islands, Chill, home to the resort’s original

the Maldives’ most contemporary hideaways. As

villas and restaurant, the Lime Spa, and SubSix,

There’s time for a dip and a chilled glass of

clown and parrot fish swim by, my wife Maggie and

located below its own pontoon 500ft off the

champagne before we make our way, guided by

I are treated to a champagne-laced mid-morning

white sandy beach, and recently opened Play, an

our Thakuru butler Milo, to the Tribal restaurant

soiree, one of several enchanting encounters the

island that adds new restaurants, activities and

and a chance to learn African Latino cooking

resort plans for visiting lovers.

accommodation options ideally suited for families

techniques from award-winning chef Ken Gundu,

and the active. For couples looking for romance

who uses his time spent in Botswana and Belize

Once upon a time, a visit to the Maldives was all

but who don’t want to just while their days away

to blend the influences of Africa with Southern

about enjoying the destination’s captivating beauty

by the pool, it’s ideal.

America. We learn the different spices and herbs used in Tribal’s dishes, many plucked straight from

and doing as little as possible in the process.

While there are still plenty of guests who arrive

Our Beach Pavilion with Pool is spacious and

the resort’s organic gardens, and then attempt to

at Per Aquum Niyama, a 45-minute seaplane ride

modern without being flashy; there’s a separate

recreate the likes of shrimp salbute tortillas and

from the international airport at Male, with that

master bedroom, an elegant garden with outdoor

fluffy escabeche fish, under Ken’s watchful eye.

www.explorer-magazine.com

24 MALDIVES

Maldivian sand, align your chakras in SubLime, a serene garden with sauna and steam rooms and pools; or fight off the jetlag with one of the After Dark rituals that promise to send you directly to a tropically inspired Cloud Nine.

That evening we head to the trees and Per Aquum Niyama’s newest creation, Nest. This unique restaurant features a menu packed with Asian flavors; there’s a teppanyaki hot plate downstairs but for a true experience, ascend the stairs to the canopy walkways which link the separate dining areas of the multi-level treehouse. Each private pod is suspended six meters above the lush island jungle and offers an enchanting and utterly romantic escape amongst the treetops.

It’s a quick seaplane flight and speed boat transfer to one of the Maldives’ most revered hideaways, the tiny, unassuming and utterly indulgent Naladhu, a tropical oasis by Anantara. The beauty of Naladhu is that not only does its spacious and beautifully-appointed At dinner we’re served by a towering Maasai warrior, a final touch complemented

beach and ocean ‘houses’ offer unparalleled privacy (enough even

by African music and phenomenal food that whisks guests far from the usual resort

for the late Saudi King as well as a raft of millionaires and celebrities

buffet.

who regularly visit), but you also have all the facilities and restaurants of Anantara Dhigu and Anantara Veli just across the lagoon.

The next morning, after our romantic breakfast at Subsix, which not only features the underworld venue below but also a chic restaurant and cocktail lounge above called

We’re welcomed with the ringing of a traditional gong as Zahid,

Edge, we cruise back to the main resort pier to don flippers and masks before heading

our shy but charming butler, leads us down manicured paths and

out, this time to Niyama’s own private picnic island, for a spot of guided snorkeling

through lush gardens to our beachfront abode. This isn’t my first

and a picnic lunch on a deserted shaded beach. We race across the mirror-still lagoon

visit to Naladhu and it’s reassuring to see little as changed; our

as couples start their day under the sun, taking a dip in the lagoon or breakfast

Beach House with Pool, one of just 20 retreats, is perfect for sun

at BLU, the resort’s new Mediterranean-themed all day dining restaurant. Under

lovers and beach bunnies. With the décor of a sophisticated summer

the Indian Ocean sun the colours of the island – red and yellow umbrellas, brilliant

home, complete with elegant hardwood touches, exotic art, a full

white sand, lush green canopies, impossibly blue water, and the yellow of an arriving

wet bar, and cutting-edge technology, the bungalow-style suite is

seaplane – are intensified. It makes every return to the Maldives like a first encounter.

ideal for couples looking to temporarily retire from the world. French doors open onto a shaded sala with swing seat, a private plunge

The perfect counter balance to a day spent on the beach is a treatment at the resort’s

pool and a path that leads to a 30-metre stretch of idyllic sand. The

Lime Spa, which is hosting a photo shoot for famed South African model Jessica

bathroom is semi-open air, with a deep soak tub, and outdoor wall

Buchanan when we visit. The key here is wellness heritage and innovation in equal

shower. That night we dine under the stars at The Living Room,

measure; you can try a host of signature treatments using island coconut oil or

Naladhu’s sole restaurant, which has the ambiance of a tropical

www.explorer-magazine.com

MALDIVES

25

private members retreat, complete with its own

sky above turning a fiery peach hue. Later, under

sand retreat by Dhoni and leave us in the shade of

glass-lined wine cellar.

a canopy of stars that reaches to the horizon, we

an umbrella with a sumptuous lunch in the most

sip cocktails at Raw, a super-sexy lounge with al

indulgent and romantic of Maldivian escapades.

But it’s not all somnolent living. The next morning,

fresco seating, before dining at Salt, an innovative

we meet with the team at TropicSurf at their centre

seafood restaurant with open kitchens, tables

That night, our last in the Maldives, we celebrate in

at Anantara Veli. After a quick briefing we’re hitting

perched above the lagoon, and an enviable caviar

subterranean style, first with a private wine paired

the sunkissed beach, practising our ‘chicken

selection.

dinner at Vinum, the resort’s unique underground

wings’, our ‘lizard legs’ and finally our ‘pop’;

wine cellar, home to 6,000 bottles and a dedicated

within ten minutes we’re riding surfboards on the

The next day it’s hard to draw ourselves from

sommelier, and then with a return visit to the

tranquil waters of the lagoon. Maggie proves a

the luxury of our Ocean Bungalow with Pool,

underwater spa suite for a private exploration of

natural, and with a push from our South African

one of 12. Thoughtfully appointed, spacious

the reef system with the knowledgeable resident

instructor Brent, rides all the way to shore. Even

and supremely private, the overwater villa faces

marine biologist. Capturing the fluorescent

if I’m no Kelly Slater the experience is exhilarating

the infinity of the Indian Ocean rather than the

brilliance of the coral under UV lights is a

and TropicSurf offer everything from beginner

lagoon, ensuring no unwanted visitors. The main

mesmerising experience and just one of a

classes right through to seaplane surf safaris.

bedroom is cathedral-like, with soaring ceilings

beautifully curated collection that lovers can look

and polished wood floors, while the bathroom

forward to at three of the Maldives’ most iconic

After all that exertion we spend the afternoon in

features a Jacuzzi bath that could fit a cricket

and innovative retreats.

the cool of the Ocean Retreat, certainly the most

team. Outside, on a three-tiered private deck, is

exclusive spa in the Maldives. With just one

an infinity plunge pool and a duo of sun loungers.

treatment room – a sumptuous Ocean House with

Travel Essentials

Pool converted into a sole-use spa – the Ocean

We emerge if only to replace solitude with solitude,

Per Aquum Niyama: From US$732 per night,

Retreat offers a range of soaks, scrubs, massages

first with a spot of luxurious pampering at the

twin share; http://niyama.peraquum.com

and wraps. Take a dip in the private pool,

Lime Spa’s breathtaking underwater treatment

serenaded by the thundering surf that hammers

room, which is wreathed by a vibrant house reef

Naladhu: From US$1,408 per night, twin share;

against the sea walls (making the ocean facing

packed with inquisitive tropical fish, followed by a

villas the most private of all) and then surrender to

private champagne picnic on a secluded sandbank.

the likes of the Ocean Signature Massage, which

Chinay and his team ferry us to our private white

uses a blend of oils to stimulate circulation and

http://naladhu.anantara.com Per Aquum Huvafen Fushi: From US$2,099 per night, twin share; http://huvafenfushi. peraquum.com

promote deep relaxation.

That evening, positively floating through the coconut palms that wreath the tiny resort, we’re led to the end of a pontoon where Zahid has prepared a candlelit dinner. Surrounded by the tranquility of the lagoon, we watch stars emerge from the indigo skies and dine on locally caught lobster as if we were the last people left in the world. If you’re looking for a destination dining concept that’s bound to set hearts a flame, this is it.

Our final stop on our romantic Maldivian escape needs little introduction. Award-winning Per Aquum Huvafen Fushi, also in the North Malé atoll, is legendary among the luxury resorts of the Maldives. If Niyama is the modern face of the Indian Ocean and Naladhu is the best of tropical escapism, then Huvafen Fushi is the Grande Dame, a resort with just 43 private bungalows and pavilions and the world’s first underwater spa, that’s welcomed everyone from George Clooney and Kate Moss to Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, who had their honeymoon here.

Chinay, our shy but ever-smiling Thakuru, explains the resort’s amenities as he serves champagne during a sunset cruise on one of Huvafen Fushi’s traditional Dhoni yachts. It’s a magically romantic experience as we circumnavigate the island, the

www.explorer-magazine.com

26 CULTURE CREATURE

SUNKEN TRE

www.explorer-magazine.com

CULTURE CREATURE

EASURE

27

D

ivers will love Europe’s first underwater museum, Museo Atlantico, which has just been created off the coast of Lanzarote, in the Canary Islands. British artist and photographer Jason deCaires Taylor has created the eye-catching and fascinating exhibition of submerged statues, which perfectly catch the light at 15 meters below the waves.

Taylor’s pieces are moving and thought provoking; there is The Raft of Lampedusa, a sculpted boat carrying 13 refugees that’s a modern take on Géricault’s 1818 painting The Raft of the Medusa. There are sculptures of people gazing at their phones or indulging in selfies, as well as pieces that take their cues from the flora and fauna of Lanzarote. A giant mirror that will create the illusion of a ‘pool’ in the sea, as well as an underwater fountain and lighting will be added in the coming months.

This is not the first time Taylor has used the sea as his canvas; his first underwater installation, Vicissitudes in 2006, included a ring of beautifully-sculptured schoolchildren perched on the edge of an ocean shelf off Molinière Bay in Grenada. It’s now at the heart of a protected marine park and made National Geographic’s 25 wonders of the world list. In the Bahamas his 40-tonne Ocean Atlas looks to shoulder the weight of the ocean on his shoulders, while the four horsemen of the apocalypse are summoned to the Thames River in The Rising Tide. www.underwatersculpture.com

www.explorer-magazine.com

28 GERMANY

BEER WITH US SOUTHWEST GERMANY CELEBRATES 500 YEARS OF BEER BREWING CULTURE WITH TOURS, FESTIVALS, AND TASTINGS IN 2016.

www.explorer-magazine.com

B

eer lovers and travellers will have to put Southwest Germany at the top of their bucket list in 2016: Exhibitions, festivals, brewery tours and beer hiking paths are only the beginning of this state's celebration of the 500 Years of Beer Purity! The Technoseum in Mannheim will dedicate an entire exhibition to beer (February 19 to July 24) while countless breweries throughout Southwest Germany will offer beer-themed seminars and guided tours. Travellers will not be able to resist a sip of Southwest Germany's beer. With numerous microbreweries and craft beer makers popping up all over the region, the beer just keeps getting better and better.

Known for its beautiful countryside, abundant sunshine, cities filled with luxury, 78 Michelin stars and even two wine regions, Southwest Germany has yet another ace

GERMANY

29

Highlands can stop for a refreshing beer and brewery tour. At 1000 metres above sea level, it is the highest brewery in Germany.

Many breweries are granting their visitors special, behind-the-scene looks at their expert brewing processes. In Tettnang they have "hands-on hops" experiences, and the town is world renowned for its hops crop. Here visitors can visit the Hops Museum or hike on the beautiful hops trail, where the crop grows up to seven meters high, and learn why Tettnang's hops are so special. In Ehingen an der Donau there is a multimedia tour showing the many faces of beer culture in the city. Ehingen is currently home to four breweries and beer culture is pivotal here, from beer-themed city tours to the popular beer hiking tail. up its sleeve: liquid gold, or Bier. Southwest Germany boasts over 180 breweries that create approximately 1,500 uniquely diverse and delicious beers. Breweries adhere to centuries old traditional methods, with of course, the legal ingredients as decreed 500 years ago.

With this history, it is no wonder that the region will be celebrating Germany's landmark decision 500 years ago to pass the German Beer Purity Law in 1516. The law requires that the only ingredients in German beer are malt, hops, yeast and water. It is the oldest food law in Germany that is still in effect today.

Starting the year off, the Technomuseum in Mannheim (45 minutes from Stuttgart and Frankfurt) will host an exhibition, "Beer - The Art of Brewing and 500 Years German Purity Law", dedicated to beer production in all of its many facets. The museum explores the technical, cultural and social history of beer up to 4,000 years ago, and shows what used to be mixed into beer before Germany's purity law (you almost don't want to know).

Each region in Baden-Württemberg is immensely proud of its local breweries.

Some breweries have been family owned for hundreds of years such as the Fürstenberg Brewery founded in 1238 while other families have recently bought back their breweries, such as the Dinklacker Family. When it started to look bleak for Mannheim's Eichbaum Brewery, the largest brewery in the state, tech company SAP founder Dietmar Hopp invested the money to save it from going under. Overall the number of breweries has increased by two percent in Southwest Germany.

With over 180 large, mid-sized and microbreweries in the state, each brewery has found a way to make creative and unique beers.

While the large breweries dedicate themselves to only one or two beer varieties, the smaller breweries, became more creative with their varieties. The mid-sized and micro-breweries in Baden-Württemberg make a broad range of beers, including: Export, Pilsner, Pale Ale, Porter, Wheat beer, Craft beer, Zwickel beer, Cellar beer, Bock beer, March beer, Organic pilsner, light beer and non-alcoholic varieties.

In the Black Forest Highlands, right next to Lake Schluchsee, is the Rothaus Baden State Brewery AG, which brews a cult classic known as the Rothaus Tannenzäpfle, or the pine cone beer, known for the pine cone shape of the bottle. Visitors hiking through the Black Forest

Many of the breweries are hosting annual beer festivals, which offer invaluable insights into authentic village and pub culture. There are large and small beer festivals taking place in Southwest Germany every year, the most famous is the Canstatter Volksfest in Stuttgart. The festival is the second largest beer festival in Germany after the Oktoberfest in Munich. Founded in 1818, it attracts around four million visitors each year. There are seven beer tents and two wine tents and the celebrations go on for 17 days in September.

Other incredible festivals are the Ulrichsfest in Ehingen, celebrating its 550th anniversary, the Historic Beer Festival in Zwiefalten, where the entire town takes part in the festivities, and the Fischer's Brewery Festival in Mössingen, a beer festival for Mother's Day with flowers for all the female guests. www.tourism-bw.com. www.explorer-magazine.com

30 AIRLINES

THE FUTURE OF FLYING Emirates EK383 Hong Kong-Dubai

Maggie Chooi finds innovation and comfort in equal measure on a recent flight from Hong Kong to Dubai on Emirates’ flagship Airbus A380.

The Lounge

Boarding

Emirates has its own signature lounge at Hong Kong International Airport,

The boarding process for the three-class Airbus A380-800 was very efficient

located near gate 40. I was warmly welcomed by staff in Emirates’ striking

for such an extraordinarily large aircraft. After finding my seat I was greeted

uniform and guided into the lounge, which features sofas, a dedicated

by a friendly cabin crew (Emirates is always very proud of its international

business centre, and café-style seating around an extensive hot and cold

cabin crew and on our flight the team represented 16 nationalities and spoke

buffet. A full bar service offered chilled Veuve Clicquot champagne, and a

17 languages) with a glass of Moët & Chandon Champagne, a wine list, and

good selection of spirits and mixers and as I enjoyed my Bloody Mary, staff

a stylish amenity kit that features miniature Bulgari products.

regularly reminded guests of the updated boarding time of the Emirates flights to Bangkok and Dubai. My only niggle with the space is that it isn't enclosed like many other lounges at HKIA, meaning it can be a little hot and bright, with ambient noise from the concourse and food court below.

www.explorer-magazine.com

The Flight The business class cabin on the Emirates flagship A380 is located on the upper deck and features a 1-2-1 configuration that offers each passenger

AIRLINES

31

direct aisle access. My fully lie-flat seat was superbly comfortable and offered plenty of storage space as well as easily accessed USB and AC ports power. There is also a personal minibar, stocked with mineral water and soft drinks, but as it’s not chilled most passengers preferred to order a drink or visit the bar (more on that in a moment). The seat also features Emirates’ award-winning ICE entertainment system, with 2,000 channels accessed through two controllers – a conventional remote and a tablet that also controls seat position. I found the window seats to offer more privacy than the central seats.

Emirates also offer 10MB of free wifi per passenger, and 600MB for just US$1, across all classes (the service isn’t available over China or India). I connected my Android mobile phone with the wifi and the speed was decent, with enough bandwidth to send out emails, Whatsapp messages and also check Facebook.

I also made time to visit signature Onboard Lounge, located at the rear of the upper deck, and featuring a fully stocked and serviced bar with a great selection of premium spirits. A resident bartender will even shake you up a bespoke cocktail.

Dining Approximately 45 minutes after takeoff the crew started the dinner service. On the appetizer menu, we had a choice of sliced roast lamb loin with mango chutney; smoked salmon and caviar; and creamy tomato soup, followed by a choice of rack of lamb with tomato and olive sauce; steamed ling fillet with steamed rice and stir-fried vegetables; and roast chicken with fried egg noodles for the main course. I matched my roast chicken with a dirty martini, my first on a plane, and decided to skip dessert even though there were some brilliant selections on offer. During the meal, crew patrolled the cabin with a wine and champagne sling to ensure speedy service at all times.

Summary Emirates obviously put a lot of thought into the comfort of their premium passengers, and the high consistency of the service, paired with an extensive network, gourmet dining, free wifi service and innovations like the Onboard Lounge ensures the airline will remain a stiff competitor to any other carrier globally. www.emirates.com

Note: The author was travelling on an upgraded ticket as a guest of the airline www.explorer-magazine.com

32 CRUISING

Beginning

OF A NEW ADVENTURE

Crystal has been the benchmark for luxury cruising for decades, but the line’s recent announcement of new ice-strengthened ships, a new yacht division, river cruising vessels and even its own airline have avid cruisers eager to book passage to parts unknown. The cruise line will double the size of its conventional luxury cruising fleet with the addition of three custom-built vessels over the next three years, while a pair of state-of-the-art custom-built river vessels will commence sailing in March 2017. Passengers might even like to reach the world’s most exotic locales and their awaiting ships on the cruise line’s own Boeing 787 Dreamliner; catering to only 60 guests, Crystal Luxury Air will launch indulgent 28-day itineraries in 2017. Perhaps most exciting is Crystal Yacht Cruises, the line’s answer to expeditionary cruising with creature comforts. Launching this month, the all-suite Crystal Esprit will cater to just 63 guests and at just 3,000 tons will be able to reach far from the beaten path, catering to intrepid travellers seeking a more authentic connection with the world’s most exotic locales. The ship’s launch itinerary will take her through the Seychelles with cruises to Dubai and the Adriatic to follow. www.crystalcruises.com

www.explorer-magazine.com