MAR - APR 2017
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE COSTA RICA ADVENTURE MEETS NATURE AMSTERDAM THE DIAMOND CAPITAL
SHOOTING THE POLES ARIZONA FOOD TRAILS
AIRLINE REVIEWS
REGENT STREET
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
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elcome to another exciting issue of Explorer, the eco-friendly digital travel magazine for true world wanderers. This issue we travel to extremes; we kick off with an ice photography tutorial in the
depths of Antarctica with adventure specialists Aurora Expeditions. The polar regions have never been hotter (if you will excuse the pun) and both the Antarctic and Artic have proven most popular with budding photographers looking to capture their surreal landscapes. Aurora’s tips from its resident experts are sure to help you come home from your next trip to the ice with stunning images. From Antarctica, we jet to the leafy canals of Amsterdam in search of life in its many and diverse neighbourhoods, before leaping across to Arizona for its seasonal foodie trails. In London, we look at the revival of Regent Street, possibly one of the most important and iconic shopping streets on the planet, before getting our hearts thumping in Costa Rica, the adventure travel capital of the Caribbean. Whether you’re hunkering down in the ice with the Gentoo penguins, shopping till you drop in the UK, or dangling at the end of a rope in the jungle, we hope Explorer continues to be your consummate travel companion on life’s most fascinating journeys.
Safe Travels,
David Leung Publisher
WORLD IN PICS
Watching the Great Migrationfrom the comfort of an infinity pool. Credit: Chobe Game Lodge Visit the filming locations of King Arthur: Legend of the Sword, which releases this May. Credit: Visit Britain
The Chapman’s Challenge, a unique biathlon experience at Pangkor Laut Resort in Malaysia, returns this May. Credit: YTL Hotels
Beyond the glitz of the Australian Gold Coast, the Hinterland offers a raft of unique trails and wineries to explore. Credit: Destination Gold Coast
AFrom PICTURE TELL the wonders of wildlife in Africa, to the s
these are the travel images in
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WORLD IN PICS
The Hayden Planetarium at the American Museum of Natural History is great for travelling sky gazers. Credit: CityPass
Lord Howe Island is home to the southernmost coral reefs in the world. Credit: Destination NSW
The annual Tradfest brings crowds of culture lovers to Edinburgh. Credit: Visit Britain The Sri Lankan capital, Colombo, at dusk. Credit: Jetwing Hotels
LS A 1000 WORDS street performances of Europe’s best festivals,
nspiring us this season.
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WHAT'S HAPPENING
Arctic Man April 3 – 9, 2017 Alaska, USA Drawing 13,000 spectators to Fairbanks, Alaska in 2016 alone, Arctic Man is an exciting event in which teams of two, a snowmobiler and a skier, cooperate to finish a unique relay race on the peaks near Summit Lake. This competition, one of the world’s toughest downhill ski races, tests skiers and their partners’ skills to the max as they speed along the mountain flanks and across a 5,800-feet snow-covered summit. www.arcticman.com
Scarborough Renaissance Festival April 8 – May 29, 2017 Texas, USA Held every spring in Waxahachie, north Texas, the Scarborough Renaissance Festival is an eight-week fantasy event based on life during the 16th century under the reign of King Henry VIII. Themedweekend activities at the fair include camel and pony rides, wine and beer tastings, and live performances on 27 stages. Traditional combat jousts and acrobatic performances offer a range of experiences for families and friends. www.srfestival.com
Beltane Fire Festival April 30, 2017 Edinburgh, Scotland
Inspired by the ancient Celtic festival of Beltane that marked the beginning of summer, the Beltane Fire Festival is an art and ritual event that attracts tens of thousands of spectators to Calton Hill in Edinburgh each year. The evening includes fire dancing and body painting traditions, highlighted by the arrival of the May Queen, who represents springtime and the Green Man, symbolising new life. Watch out for the lighting of the bonfire, which signifies the start of the season and prepares dancers for the coming of spring. www.beltane.org
BaliSpirit Festival March 19 – 26, 2017 Bali, Indonesia
BaliSpirit Festival, an event encouraging positive changes in festival-goers’ minds and souls, features a series of yoga, dance, and music experiences that begins with an opening night party amidst Ubud’s beautiful rice terraces headlined by American rapper Kiyoshi Shelton and singer Amber Lily. Health-conscious participants can join a special Thai massage session, while spiritual souls can attend meditation classes or join professional life-coaches such as Christabel Zamor at healing programmes. Stay over the weekend for the One World One Stage Concerts at the ARMA Museum. www.balispiritfestival.com
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WHAT'S HAPPENING
Byron Bay Bluesfest April 13 – 17, 2017 New South Wales, Australia Drawing over 100,000 music lovers to the New South Wales coastal town, Byron Bay Bluesfest is a five-day multi-cultural extravaganza presenting 200 performances across six stages, and provides a spectacular camping site for music-loving travellers. This year’s line-up includes New Zealand singer-songwriter Neil Finn; American folk rock band The Lumineers; and Australian country blues band The Wilson Pickers. Grab a beer at one of the five bars before drowning yourself in a week of sensational live music. www.bluesfest.com.au
King’s Day
April 27, 2017 Amsterdam, Netherlands King’s Day, or Koningsdag, is an annual national celebration observed by the Dutch to honour the birth of King William. Commencing with a royal ceremony at the new harbour bridge, this holiday event continues with festivities held in the streets and canals of Amsterdam and other cities, which are packed with attendees in orange (the national colour). Explore the nationwide flea markets, where locals sell secondhand items, and join the street parties which revel into the night. www.koningsdagnederland.com
Lucidity Festival April 7 – 9, 2017 California, USA Stepping into its sixth year of encouraging personal growth and strengthening community, Lucidity Festival is a transformational arts and music event that invites optimistic minds to the Live Oak Campground in Santa Barbara. The seven themed villages provide festival-goers life-changing experiences with music by headliners like American musicians Random Rab and Kevin Anderson, as well as folk artist Ayla Nereo. For extra mindful activities, don’t miss out on the course week, which includes mind and body works, held three days prior to the event. www.lucidityfestival.com
AfrikaBurn April 24 – 30, 2017 Calvinia, South Africa An African art, music, and cultural event, AfrikaBurn is set in the deserts of Northern Cape, which has been welcoming creative minds to Tankwa Karoo, a temporary artistic enclave, for a decade. This inspiring event sees a rich cultural blend of themed-camps, costumes, art and music, while promoting principles such as selfexpression and communal effort. www.afrikaburn.com
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NEWS
Steps Above Sydney
Set to return to Cotai Expo at The Venetian Macao until July 9, 2017, Kung Fu Panda Adventure Ice World with the DreamWorks All-Stars is Asia's largest annual indoor frozen wonderland event. Created by skilled craftsmen from Harbin, China, the ice sculpture exhibition will display a host of colourful DreamWorks Animation characters, including those from Kung Fu Panda, Madagascar, Shrek, and How to Train Your Dragon, carved from 1 million kilograms of ice. New additions include themed games, character meet-and-greets, and a movie zone. In response to the event, Sands Resorts Macao has unveiled new ticket-inclusive accommodation packages, including The Macao Ice World Package, which is available for booking until July 9, 2017. http://en.sandsresortsmacao.com
New Luxurious Lodge for Zambia
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BridgeClimb will expand its offering for Mandarin-speaking climbers with the launch of its BridgeClimb Mandarin programme, a 3.5-hours experience that climbs the top arch of the Sydney Harbour Bridge to its summit, 134 metres above the harbour, from April 2017. Groups of up to 14 can complete the iconic Australian journey of 1,332 steps, taking the outer arch along the same route used by the original BridgeClimb, accompanied by historical and contemporary commentary in Mandarin. The daily morning climb departs at 10am and will complement the existing BridgeClimb Mandarin climb (2.5-hours), which departs daily at 3pm, taking visitors along the inner arch of the bridge. www.bridgeclimb.com
Winter World
Set on the upper Munde stream, the King Lewanika Lodge will open next month as the newest mobile camp in Zambia’s Liuwa Plain National Park. The camp, which will operate until mid-July, and again between October and December, is named after the Barotse King who proclaimed Liuwa Plain a protected area in the 1880s. The lodge has been designed by acclaimed architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, and comprises six villas, including a two-bedroom family villa, and has an accommodation capacity of up to 15 guests. Encounter the famous Liuwa lions, view the second largest wildebeest migration in the Africa, and challenge yourself to spot as many of the region’s 330 bird species as you can, while enjoying on-site activities, which include day and night game drives, conservation excursions with the Zambia Carnivore Programme research team, and boating or canoeing when water levels permit. www.aardvarksafaris.co.uk
NEWS
Viking Sky, sister ship to Viking Ocean Cruises’ awardwinning Viking Star and Viking Sea, and the line’s third ship, has officially launched and departed on its maiden voyage from Rome’s Civitavecchia port, bound for Barcelona. The all-veranda ship boasts 465 cabins and can accommodate 930 passengers, with staterooms featuring minibars, coffee makers, and cashmere blankets. Other amenities onboard include a fitness centre, a Viking Bar, an infinity pool and hot tub, and a spa and sauna. The ship will begin her season sailing itineraries throughout the western and eastern Mediterranean, before heading north to sail Scandinavian and Baltic itineraries in summer, followed by cruising the Atlantic in fall. www.vikingcruises.com
Escape to Panadura
Connect with a crocodile at Wild Life Sydney Zoo, which has launched a new 'Crocodile Encounter' featuring state-of-the-art interactive crawl spaces and pop-up windows and tunnels. For the first time, guests are able to crawl through a crocodile's display and stand-up, in an acrylic pop-up viewing dome, allowing eye-to-eye contact with one of Australia's most dangerous animals. This new zone includes a 500-kilograms male crocodile, as well as on-site fast facts and conservation messages posted around the crocodile's new exhibit. www.wildlifesydney.com.au
New Viking Voyages
Enjoy a luxury experience at Jie Jie Beach by Jetwing, a new property in Panadura, Sri Lanka, boasting lavish comfort and spectacular views of the Indian Ocean. Located 1.5-hours from Colombo, the property features 180 rooms, inclusive of Deluxe rooms and suites with balconies and terraces overlooking the pristine Indian Ocean. Each room offers guests the comfort of a kingsize bed and a sitting area, complemented by authentic Sri Lankan hospitality. Be spoilt for choice as you savour the special Sunday lunch buffets served at the resort’s Chinese restaurant; dance to the music while sipping on a cocktail at the bar and karaoke lounge; or indulge in the views of a relaxing sunset at the pool bar, which serves a wide range of cocktails and easy snacks. www.jetwinghotels.com
Crocodile Connection
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NEWS
A Trail to Remember
Take a cycling journey through southern Japan with “Kyushu Onsen to Onsen” by SpiceRoads Cycle Tours, a new six-day-five-night tour between Fukuoka and the Kunisaki Peninsula. The cycling tour offers a host of onsens, rugged volcanic scenery, and cultural sites spanning hundreds of years of Japanese history. This moderate cycling tour covers 237 kilometres of wellmaintained roads within four full cycling days, catering to all reasonably fit cyclists. Kick start in Dazaifu and arrive in the hot spring resort and Edo-era merchant town of Hida. You’ll also have the chance to engage in a climb to the Oishitoge Pass before arriving in Usa. Take in views of beaches and ports along the way as you descend from Mount Futago. Ride inland to Kitsuki, which boasts a well-preserved samurai district and Kitsuki Castle, and finish off at one of Beppu's famous hot spring resorts. www.spiceroads.com
Cultural Immersion
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Paying homage to the birthday of President Abraham Lincoln, the Indiana Office of Tourism Development (IOTD) joins hands with tourism offices in Kentucky and Illinois to relaunch a new and improved tristate tourism path, The Lincoln Heritage Trail, which highlights places of significance to the life of the 16th US President. Indiana sites on the trail now include Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial, which features five sculptured panels marking significant periods in Lincoln's life, and the Trail of Twelve Stones, which begins at the Lincoln Living Historical Farm, and ends near Pioneer Cemetery, where Lincoln's mother is buried. Stretch your legs in the Lincoln State Park, which offers 16 kilometres of hiking trails with views of two scenic lakes; visit the William Jones historic home restored from the 1834 Federal-design home of the merchant employer of Lincoln; and investigate into the artefacts from Lincoln's early years in the state at the Indiana State Museum. www.lincolnadventures.com
A Journey through Kyushu
Set in the heart of a fascinating heritage enclave, the new Mercure Singapore Bugis offers travellers convenient accommodation with easy access to a myriad of historical and cultural sites. Located within walking distance of the city’s prime shopping zone, Orchard Road, the 15-storey hotel features 395 guest rooms and suites across four room types, with Loft Rooms offering floor-to-ceiling windows with cosy sitting areas connected to comfortable bedroom lofts with queen-sized beds. Rooms and common areas of the hotel are designed and decorated to reflect the Lion City's rich cultural background and diverse ethnicities, through a mix of contemporary artwork, sculptures and paintings. www.mercure.com
NEWS
Travellers looking to delve into the natural beauty of the New South Wales Southern Highlands should not miss Wildfest, a three-day eco-adventure festival to be held on April 21-23, 2017. The weekend event celebrates nature through unique experiences in the city’s national parks, while also offering food indulgences, specially-designed hiking, canoeing, and mountain biking itineraries through rain forests, as well as performance art. Participants will be able to enjoy a range of bespoke activities according to their physical fitness. www.wildfest.com.au
Upgraded Cruises to Fiji
Fairmont Chateau Whistler has unveiled 11 new suites created from 22 of the hotel's former Moderate Rooms. With each featuring a cozy fireplace and modern bathroom with spa shower, the aptly named Alpine Suites are situated on the highest floors of the hotel. All offer breathtaking views of Whistler Blackcomb and the Coast Mountain Range. Marrying subtle modern finishes and rustic textures of antiqued bronze, rust iron, and distressed woods, the new suites exude an inviting ambiance. A complete facelift in the bathrooms sees new plumbing and rain head showers, while other room enhancements include new décor, soft furnishings and electronics. www.fairmont.com/whistler
Wild Adventures
Embrace winter with a complimentary upgrade offer on Blue Lagoon Cruises’ three-, four- and seven-night journeys to the picturesque Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands of Fiji. Visitors booking a Hibiscus deck cabin before April 30, 2017 will enjoy an upgrade to an Orchid deck cabin, for a perfect winter getaway, valid for travel from April 1, 2017 through March 31, 2018. Passengers in the Orchid deck cabin will have access to a complimentary daily stocked mini bar serving beer, wine, soft drinks and bottled water. Other privileges include tropical fruit platter on arrival, Nespresso coffee and tea selection in cabin, and Pure Fiji sun care gifts. Enjoy swimming with manta rays, guided snorkelling safaris, glass bottom boat excursions, and a visit to the sacred Sawa-i-Lau Caves; or join a seven-night cruise for a swim with reef sharks and a visit to the film location of the Tom Hanks movie Castaway. www.bluelagooncruises.com
Perfect for Pairs
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ARIZONA
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ARIZONA
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ARIZONA
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ARIZONA
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PHOTOGRAPHY
baby
Ensure you come home from your next Arctic or Antarctic journey with some great photos thanks to these polar photography tips from Aurora Expeditions.
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hen we travel to extreme destinations like the Arctic or Antarctic, we’re welcomed by some of the most captivating landscapes on the planet. Despite the incredible vistas and abundance of spectacular wildlife, shooting in the Poles can present many challenges, with photographers having to adapt constantly to changing weather, be prepared for unexpected wildlife behaviour and battle with extreme temperatures and their hampering effect on photography equipment. In 2017/18, passengers travelling on Aurora Expeditions' photography voyages to Antarctica or the Arctic will have the chance to develop their photography skills under the guidance of polar photography experts Chris Bray, Scott Portelli, Michael Baynes and Martyn Lucas, through a tailored programme of lectures and workshops on essential camera skills and photography in the polar regions. Some of their top tips include:
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PHOTOGRAPHY Photograph Wildlife from a Low Vantage Point “Images taken at the same eye height as your subject will create a more neutral looking image. Lowering your profile will also allow the wildlife to relax and carry on around you,” says Michael Baynes, a freelance photographer and photography guide who has travelled to over 50 countries.
Wild Weather
Brighten for Snowy, Icy Scenes “Dial up your camera's Exposure Compensation, otherwise photos with a lot of white snow or ice end up dull and grey. Don't go too far though or you'll overexpose the shot,” says Chris Bray, an award-winning Australian Geographic photographer, and Lowepro and Canon ambassador.
Your Smartphone Might not be Smart Enough Smartphones and tablets aren’t capable of handling low-light photography as well as a DSLR. In these scenarios, smartphones will automatically use a slower shutter speed to absorb as much light as possible without a flash. This means you’ll need a stable position or even a tripod to get a clear image and avoid camera shake. Remember that slower shutter speeds don’t freeze movement as well as a faster speed would, so stick to more stationary subjects such as landscapes. In addition, as smartphone cameras rely on digital, rather than optical zoom, your image resolution will decrease the more you zoom in, making the images grainy. Using your camera’s default zoom settings and shooting in good light will help keep your images sharp
Keep Your Hands Warm
You may encounter some dramatic weather, but don’t let that discourage you from getting great photos. Moody skies, filtered sunlight and rain make for some theatrical shots, so play around with your shutter speed and aperture for the best exposure. And considering you’ll be travelling during the summer months, you’ll enjoy the benefits of the Midnight Sun – a natural phenomenon that allows nearly 24 hours of daylight the closer to the north or south pole you travel. Given this, sunrise and sunset last longer at the poles, meaning you’ll have plenty of time to plan for your perfect shot.
Combat Condensation When Returning to the Ship “Leave your camera in its bag to allow it to slowly warm up and use a damp cloth to wipe salt water from your equipment,” says Martyn Lucas, an internationallyrecognised landscape photographer. Aurora Expeditions will offer a series of specialist photography voyages in 2017/18, including Jewels of the Arctic (August 18-31, 2017), which cruises among Greenland's spectacular icebergs in Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord system in the world; the In-depth South Georgia & Antarctica - (November 27-16 December, 2017) led by Chris Bray; and In Shackleton's Footsteps (March 7-24, 2018), led by Scott Portelli , which follows in the footsteps of one of the world’s greatest Arctic explorers.
www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
“This might seem hard to avoid in polar regions, but wearing thin gloves under your wetsuit will help to prevent your hands from getting too stiff to work the camera settings,” says Scott Portelli, the Australian National Winner at the 2016 Sony World Photography Awards and Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2016 by Natural History Museum.
Prepare for Wildlife Shooting wildlife is always challenging. Get your technique right, however, and you could be rewarded with some amazing shots. It’s said that the most interesting wildlife photography involves the three F’s: fighting, feeding and frisky! While a zoom lens is often essential to good wildlife shots, be sure to include some of the creature’s surroundings in frame. Flash photography can disturb animals, and is not recommended. When you’re on land, getting down lower to the animal’s level can create a more engaging image. Always listen to your guide about maintaining the appropriate distance from wildlife
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COSTA RICA
A dv e n t u r e
Nature
Costa Rica
Costa Rica's diverse natural
landscapes and terrain set the stage for coast to coast, actionpacked adventures. Thanks to the country's compact size, travellers looking for extreme adventures can participate in any and all adventures they wish without stressing over not having enough time to go from one activity to the next. As home to five percent of the world's biodiversity, Costa Rica offers unforgettable experiences for travellers seeking to become one with nature.
Canyoning Canyoning in Costa Rica takes place in the areas of Turrialba, San Ramon, Miramar, La Fortuna and Rincon de la Vieja. Performed in small groups of up to 12 people accompanied by a guide, the activity includes walking, hiking, climbing and rappelling any or all of the six canyons available. This is a unique Costa Rican experience because the country's tropical canyons and climate provide travelers the opportunity to explore landscapes with lush vegetation and breathtaking views of waterfalls.
Mountain Biking
With miles and miles of rocky trails and tough terrains, Costa Rica is perfect for all kinds of two-wheeled fun. The country's most demanding routes take as much as 10 days, allowing travellers to cross the country. Travellers can choose from professional routes such as “La Ruta de los Conquistadores,” which lasts three days, or opt for a shorter route that combines mountain biking with walking, rafting and kayaking. If seeking to go completely off-road, travellers can also choose a route
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COSTA RICA
of walking for a total of a week-long trip, travellers have to carry everything with them, including their own tent and food, as the route is off the beaten track. Another option for travellers interested in trekking is the Chirripo route, across Costa Rica's tallest peak.
Sea Kayaking
that does not touch pavement at any point, such as the one at Rincon de la Vieja, comprising 50 kilometres of waterfalls and downhill paths. Â
Trekking
With mountainous terrain and unspoiled rainforests, trekking through Costa Rica's rainforests is a one-ofa-kind experience. Unlike hiking, trekking is a lengthier activity, with the average route lasting three days. There are three popular trekking routes in Costa Rica. The Savegre route, which consist of various trails connected through agricultural towns that offer facilities and activities, allows visitors to choose the points they want to explore. For the Kamuk route, comprising five days
For travellers interested in sea kayak camping, the four-day route at Golfo Dulce, where different species of whales and dolphins give birth and nurse their young throughout the year, is a must. The trip begins at Puerto Jimenez and leads travellers up the coast at a rate of 19 kilometres per day. On the second day of the trip, travellers cross from one side of the gulf to the other and can take a rest at the camp site in Piedras Blancas National Park, at the opposite side of Osa Peninsula. For this trip, paddlers have to take all essentials in the kayak with them, including their tent. Another popular route for sea kayak camping is the beginning at Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, through Rio San Juan and ending at Barra del Colorado Wildlife Refuge. www.visitcostarica.com
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AMSTERDAM
To understand Amsterdam is to explore beyond its historic centre and to delve into the myriad and diverse neighbourhoods that ring and intertwine its iconic canals. By 20
Nick Walton
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AMSTERDAM
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Jordaan One of the city’s most beautiful (and pricy) enclaves, Jordaan is located west and north of the city centre, and is famed for its narrow streets and tree-lined canals. Now lined with beautifully preserved homes (including one that once belonged to Rembrandt), chic art galleries and trendy canal-front cafes and restaurants, this former working class district is extremely pedestrian friendly, with visitors able to trace the banks of the serene canals as they window show. Jordaan is a foodie haven, with favourites including private kitchen concept Daalder (daalderamsterdam.nl) and brunch hotspot Café Brix (cafebrix.nl). Be sure to leave time to visit the organic markets at the café-lined Noordermarkt square and at Lindengracht; look out for the intimate hofjesconcerten, concerts held in the neighbourhood’s often-hidden inner courtyards; and if you’re walking the canals by evening, treat yourself to the city’s best apple pie at local icon Winkel (winkel43.nl).
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Museum Quarter A must visit for art and culture lovers, Amsterdam’s Museumkwartier is home to both the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, two of the city’s biggest attractions (you’ll also find the city’s Diamond Museum if you’re looking to brush up on your four Cs). A quiet, leafy neighbourhood a short tram ride from the action of the city centre. The Museum Quarter is also popular for its large parks, including the expansive Vondelpark, the city’s largest, but the neighbourhood has increasingly become popular as a luxury shopping precinct, making for a rather seductive mix of culture and couture. Local institutions include Rivièra Maison (rivieramaison. com), a two-storey concept boutique selling everything from design books to luxury candy; and local lingerie designer Marlies Dekkers (marliesdekkers.com), although international brands like Canali, Chopard and Chanel are also in attendance. Finish off your retail therapy with the city’s beautiful at the Conservatorium Hotel’s Tunes Bar (conservatoriumhotel.com), a magnet for the city’s glitterati that boasts a selection of over 40 gins.
AMSTERDAM
De Pijp One of the city’s most vibrant neighbourhoods, and one that attracts shoppers from around the world. De Pijp is located south of the city centre and has steadily gentrified as real estate prices soar. Most people come to De Pijp (sometimes refered to as the city’s Latin Quarter) to visit Albert Cuyp Market, which runs between Ferdinand Bolstraat and Van Woustraat and is named for a beloved 17th century painter. An eclectic setting of stalls and shops lining a now pedestrianized avenue, the market is now open six days a week and sells everything from vintage cameras and clothing through to fresh vegetables. The neighbourhood has traditionally been home to the city’s Surinamese, Antillean, Turkish and Moroccan communities, so expect a multicultural vibe as well as some of Amsterdam’s best food stall grazing, especially at The Bazaar, a former church turned North African food hall.
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Nine Streets A fascinating micro-neighbourhood at the heart of Amsterdam’s historic centre, De Negen Straatjes or ‘The Nine Little Streets’ is a precinct bursting with colour and vitality thanks to innovative, chef-driven restaurants, cozy cafes and plenty of local designer boutiques. Part of the larger Grachtengordel canal ring district, and connecting the main canals between Leidsegracht and Raadhuisstraat, Nine Streets’ construction dates from the 17th century, when its narrow lanes were the domain of tanning workshops (hence the streets’ curious names, including Cow, Bear and Roe Deer). Today things are rather different; its canal houses now play home to chic galleries, vintage jewellery boutiques, cigar divans, and vintage Champagne palours. Look out for breathtaking vintage watches at the Amsterdam Watch Company (awco.nl), beautiful examples of Dutch Realism at Galerie Lughien (Reestraat 17, 1016; +31 20 625 3193); and if you get peckish, some of the best snacks in town at T’Kuyltje (http://kuyltje.nl), which has been preparing its signature warm pastrami and cheese sandwiches for over 50 years.
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Eastern Docklands Like so many of Amsterdam’s coolest enclaves, the Eastern Docklands started out as a thriving port servicing the Dutch East Indies. Today it’s shrugging off its rather grimy industrial persona and replacing it with cutting-edge architecture, stunning water views and some of the city’s best cultural hubs, including the Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ (muziekgebouw.nl), Amsterdam’s magnificent 'Music Building on the IJ'. If you’re looking for something a little more intimate, the adjacent Bimhuis hall (bimhuis.nl) is often cited as one of the best live jazz venues in the world. After your show, head down to the Delirium Cafe Amsterdam (deliriumcafeamsterdam.nl), home to over 500 beers as well as gourmet bar snacks.
Noord The city’s fastest emerging neighbourhood, Amsterdam Noord is a vast community located across the IJ River. Free ferries make Noord easy to reach, but bringing your own bicycle will help you navigate better and also fit in with the locals. If you’re a lover of arthouse movies, head to the beautiful EYE Film Institute (eyefilm. nl) with its waterfront restaurant and regular screenings. At NDSM-werf up the road there’s an edgy arts community scattered among the likes of abandoned trams and half-sunk submarines. During the weekend Noord hosts the mega flea market IJ Hallen, an Aladdin’s cave of potential bargains, and once you’ve snapped up great deals make for Café-Restaurant Stork (restaurantstork. nl), a stellar seafood restaurant housed in a former ship engine factory, or order cocktails under the fairy lights at Tolhuistuin (tolhuistuin.nl), a former canteen for Shell workers that’s now a thriving events space and open beer garden.
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LONDON
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LONDON
HEART OF
THE CAPITAL One of the most iconic shopping and entertainment precincts in London, Regent Street instills the vitality and sophistication of the British capital to a tee. By Nick Walton JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017
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LONDON
on the traditional St James’ barbershops, but also presents today’s gentlemen plenty of pampering, with a raft of treatments, from signature wet shaves and haircuts through to manicures, facials and even shoeshines. They also do a brilliant line in men’s grooming products, perfect gifts for dandies back home. www.murdocklondon.com
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ou could be forgiven for not knowing that Regent Street, that staple of timeless Britishness, was one of the first planned developments in London and remains a vital component of the legacy of British designer John Nash. One of England’s first examples of city planning, and a precinct in the midst of a GBP1 billion investment programme, Regent Street remains one of the most vibrant corners of the British capital, welcoming 7.5 million tourists per year with its world class hotels, innovative restaurants, traditional artisans, and upscale boutiques.
Style Regent Street, with its close proximity to the royal palace and some of London’s most sophisticated neighbourhoods, has long been associated with luxury, fashion and style. Ensure you hit Regent Street’s boutiques looking your best: women can make a beeline for DryBy, a new blow dry and nail art studio located just off Regent Street. Offering a contemporary nail styling experience as well as a selection of timeless hairstyles, DryBy also caters to weary travellers with indulgent scalp massages and treatment masques that will have you looking a million pounds in moments. www. dryby.co.uk Gents won’t be left behind either. Murdock London, on Great Marlborough Street, not only offers a refined and luxurious take 28
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Shop Regent Street is best known for its luxury shopping, drawing travellers from across the globe to its historic department stores and chic boutiques. Start at Liberty, a department store on Great Marlborough Street that was founded in 1875 and which specialise in luxury clothing and accessories, as well as cosmetics and jewellery. Look out for the heritage-listed black and white Tudor revival façade of this historic bazaar and prepare to browse the afternoon away as this place has a little of everything, from fragrances and trench coats to cocktail shakers and stilettos. www.liberty.co.uk Regent Street is also home to a host of international brand flagship stores; Apple brought in the crowds when they opened earlier this year; Burberry recently opened at 121 Regent Street, as did Michael Kors Kate Spade and Ralph Lauren; with Banana Republic, Ted Baker and Aquascutum hot on their heels. Of course these international shrines to consumerism are joined by more traditional British brands (although many have been given a modern facelift) from the likes of Hamleys toy emporium, Church’s shoes, and Hunter, through to Penhaligon’s, Hackett, and Barbour.
Feast All that retail therapy is sure to build up an appetite. Fortunately Regent Street is as much a foodie destination as it is a haven for shopaholics, with everything from Argentine steaks at Gaucho, and High Tea at Café Royal, to fine dining at Roux at the Landau. We suggest you kick off at a celebrity favourite, Aqua London. Like its Hong Kong brethren, Aqua London is split into three distinctive settings: there’s Aqua Spirit, a chic cocktail bar popular with the black suit nine-to-fivers and famed for its Asian fusion cocktails (the Yuzuana Bellinis are crowd pleasers), best enjoyed during the warmer months on the restaurant’s extensive rooftop terrace. Aqua Kyoto serves up delectable Japanese menus laced with imported ingredients, while Aqua Neuva finishes the trilogy with its modern Spanish a la carte menus and lingering brunches. www.aqua-london.com Around the corner, oyster and history lovers alike should book ahead for a perch at Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, which has been shucking oysters for the well-to-do masses for almost 100 years. Under the watchful eye of Michelin-starred chef Richard Corrigan, a team of ‘oyster boys’ man the main oyster bar at the heart of the restaurant. Order a dozen oysters from the best beds across the British Isles, and compliment the fare with imported caviar, signatures from the raw bar (the beef tartare is to die for), and drops from a beautifully-curated wine list. For something a little more serious, head upstairs to the Grill, home to classic British cuisine, from roast grouse and Cornish mussels to Elwy Valley lamb and the iconic baked fish stew. www.bentleys.org
LONDON
Alternatively, if you’re just looking to graze while you admire your new purchases, duck into Momo, London’s original North African den and home to a sumptuous fusion afternoon tea that will sate your appetite for both food and exotic locales. Founded by Parisian-Algerian restauranteur Mourad Mazouz in 1995, this boudoir is tucked away on Heddon Street and serves an innovative afternoon tea that takes its inspiration as much from the Atlas Mountains as it does the Champs Elysees. Be sure to leave time for a tipple in the hidden Black Dive Bar, Momo’s own speakeasy sibling. http://momoresto.com There’s nothing quite like a well-made drink to easy aching feet after a long day window shopping and while Hawksmoor is renowned as one of the best steak spots in London, you can’t go past its cocktail list, which packs a punch. Located on Air Street, just off Regent, the cocktail menu is inspired by some of the oldest cocktails ever recorded, with each beautiful concoction laboriously shaken and strained on order – lovers of the classic Bloody Mary will enjoy Hawksmoor’s homage to the great drink across three signature renditions. Be sure to book ahead as this is one of the hottest tables in the Regent Street precinct. http://thehawksmoor.com For more info on what’s happening in Regent Street go to www.regentstreetonline.com Do yourself a favour and navigate all Regent Street has to offer through the precinct’s new Regent Street Shopping app, which offers real time advice on where you should be heading for the season. www. regentstreetonline.com/zeitgeist/regent-street-app
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AIRLINES
A CUT ABOVE THE REST Air Canada AC8 Hong Kong-Vancouver Genuine hospitality and a cuttingedge new business class product has helped Air Canada spearhead premium travel in North America and across to Asia, discovers Nick Walton on a recent flight to Vancouver.
The Seat The Air Canada two-class 777-300ER features two International Business Class cabins with a total of 42 seats. Although the cabin initially looked a little cramped, you quickly realise there is real ergonomics at play here, both at a cabin and seat level. At 6ft 7-inches long and 21-inches wide, Air Canada’s Executive Pods offer plenty of storage; a tray that slides directly from beneath a large 18-inch touchscreen monitor; and easily-accessible USB and AC ports, both of which are secreted in a deep-set drawer at the centre of a large armrest. With the addition of single-pin audio jacks (for those who like to bring their own headphones), a touch-screen for seat position, supplied noisereduction headphones, personal air flow, and access to an extensive range of movies, television programmes and music channels, this is one of our favourite business class set ups to date. We were welcomed into the spotlessly clean cabin by cheerful Air Canada crew who delivered menus and glasses of champagne, and took post-take off drink orders as the cabin filled up. We pulled back on time and departed soon after with an estimated 11 hour 35 minute flight time.
Service Air Canada’s service levels immediately shone through. Charming, mature cabin crew introduced themselves to passengers in both cabins and quickly began a seamless dinner service, with hot towels, warm nuts, and a well-measured gin and tonic. In fact throughout the flight crew patrolled the cabin and were always happy to help – no hiding in the galley through 90 percent of the flight for this lot.
Dining Dinner started approximately 40 minutes after takeoff with an appetiser 30
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of smoked duck breast with micro greens, fresh orange, diced green apple, red chard and zesty prune chutney. This was followed by panfried chicken breast with café de Paris butter, herb barley and peppers, green zucchini and baby carrots, which was perfectly cooked and perfectly proportioned. I followed this with a selection of cheese – Red Cheddar, Gouda and Brie – matched with Dow’s Port, after one of the better meals I’ve had at 39,000ft. In addition to the a la carte menu, the airline offers on its long-haul flights an Express Light Meal Option, and a Flexible All-Inclusive Option. Brunch, which was served 75 minutes before landing; I opted for assorted steamed dumplings with XO sauce, which were light but delicious, the XO sauce and a Lavazza double espresso both offering a little pick me up as we arrived in the late afternoon in Vancouver.
Rest & Relaxation During my meal I made the most of the airline’s entertainment system, catching up on one classic movie and one new release before beginning to doze off. The system boasts over 600 hours of programming, with gate-to-gate access which is always appreciated. The screen’s positioning and size makes for a near-cinematic experience that really helps the hours fly by. When in bed mode, the seat’s cushion is very comfortable, especially when matched with a warm duvet and an oversized pillow, and I managed to fall asleep easily.
Summary Well-priced, with great service, market-leading hardware and a truly elegant dining proposition, Air Canada impressed the pants off us on our journey from Hong Kong to Vancouver. Hong Kong to Vancouver return in International Business Class from US$3,563. www.aircanada.com
Taking the WORLd
AIRLINES
to Africa
South African Airways has won Africa’s best airline for 14 years straight, and with good reason, but the carrier will need investment if it wants to compete with the major players of Asia, discovers
Nick Walton
on a recent flight.
SA287 HONG KONG – JOHANNESBURG
CHEcK IN/THE LOUNGE
After a quick check in process at HKIA Terminal 1 I made my way through security to the United Club Lounge of United Airlines, South Africa Airways’ Star Alliance partner airline, located near gate 60. A pleasant, out-of-the-way lounge, the United Club has a little something for every traveller, from ‘open air’ seating located above the concourse, to plush lounge suites, self-service bar, to wellmaintained showers.
THE SEAt
I boarded the A340-600 aircraft at gate 31 for my 11.55pm flight and found my seat in the 42-seat business class cabin. While the decade-old seats aren’t especially padded or wide (at 23.7-inches), they’ve been lovingly maintained and offer a comfortable 180-degree lie-flat bed. A spacious armrest between seats features a privacy screen, controls for the seat positioning (and the great massage system), and room enough for a couple of glasses of wine and a pair of headphones, while a small cubby hole set in the seat back in front is big enough for a bottle of water and a chic amenity kit by fashion designer Mphelane Mareletse. Entertainment controls, headphone jack and AC power are located beneath the armrest, while a rather chunky personal monitor swings up from beneath. During boarding a single young crew member served juice and South African sparkling wine to a packed cabin.
THE FlIGHt
After an on-time departure on our 11 hour 28 minute flight crew served hot towels and drinks, in my case a Tanqueray gin and tonic. Like many other passengers I decided to skip the meal – there’s nothing more confusing than eating dinner at 1am and breakfast at 4am. After browsing the airline’s rather dated entertainment system decided to catch a few episodes of Law & Order on my tablet before making up my bed (the trick is to do it before your seat mate due to space constraints). South African make up for their older seats with superbly comfortable duvets and comforters and I managed to have one of the best sleeps I’ve had in the sky.
DINING
I woke approximately 80 minutes out from Johannesburg to the smell of breakfast being prepared. After glasses of orange juice and more hot towels were dished out I opted for plain yoghurt, a croissant, coffee, and a cheese omelet with grilled chicken sausages, hash browns and mushrooms. The omelet was exceptional, as was the coffee and service. We arrived on time into a cool and cloudy Johannesburg.
SUMMARY
South African Airways offers a great non-stop service between Hong Kong and and while it’s not the newest product, it’s perfectly adequate for a red-eye long-haul flight. Hong KongJohannesburg return in business from US$5,800 per person. www.flysaa.com JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017
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