MAY - JUNE 2016
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE
In From the Cold Burmese Dreaming Go West Young Man
TRAVEL TECH
INDIAN OCEAN DINING
EUROPE’S BUDGET CITIES
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
W
elcome to another issue of Explorer, the ecofriendly digital travel magazine for true world
wanderers. In this exciting issue we visit destinations both familiar and exotic, cruise in luxury and watch our pennies in Europe. We start off in Kazakhstan, a fascinating destination that’s increasingly popular thanks to the efforts of its
innovative airline Air Astana, which is not only one of the most profitable in the world, but also has Skytrax’s coveted four stars. The airline’s ever-expanding route offers more travellers than ever the opportunity to explore this beautiful country, famed for its near endless steppes, its rich heritage and its cultural diversity. From Central Asia we travel east to Myanmar, another emerging destination, to cruise the mighty Irrawaddy River on the newly launched Strand Cruise, the aquatic extension of Yangon’s iconic hotel. We pass through the Indian Ocean looking for culinary innovation at Constance Hotels & Resorts before arriving in New Zealand’s South Island in time to journey across the Southern Alps on the iconic TranzAlpine train. Of course we also have all the new hotels, itineraries, gadgets and destinations that help inspire your travels ahead. Where ever you’re headed this season, we hope Explorer remains your digital sidekick.
David Leung Publisher
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WORLD IN PICS The scene is set for the most spectacular production of Puccini's Turandot ever staged, on Sydney’s dramatic waterfront. Credit: Destination NSW
Beijing’s stunning Temple of Heaven continues to draw tourists from around the world. Credit: Battered Suitcase
Wildlife & Wild Places The resident macaques of the Jigokudani Monkey Park in the Jōshin'etsu-kōgen National Park on Japan’s Honshu Island offer a unique and up close wildlife experience. Credit: Insider Journeys
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Barcelona is an increasingly popular embarkation port for avid cruisers. Credit: ecruising
WORLD IN PICS
From outlandish art to unique wildlife encounters, these are the images defining our travel this season.
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Humpbacks up close and personal. Credit: Tourism Western Australia
There are few places on the planet that offer the tranquility and unspoiled natural beauty of Australia’s Maria Island National Park. Credit Great Walks of Australia
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WHAT’S HAPPENING
Festival de Cannes May 11 – 22, 2016 Cannes, France Celebrating the diversity and development of the film industry, Festival de Cannes is one of the most important events on the entertainment calendar. Make sure to arrive early at the red carpet of the opening ceremony for a glimpse of your favourite movie stars, and grab a prime seat at The Cinéma de la Plage (outdoor cinema), where you can enjoy a different film each night. www.festival-cannes.com
Luminato Festival
Gnaoua World Music Festival May 12 - 15, 2016 Essaouira, Morocco
A melting pot of music from the four corners of the world, the Gnaoua World Music Festival is one of the largest summer events in Morocco, attracting up to half a million visitors over the course of the four-day extravaganza. In addition to the mystical Gnaoua music, the festival will also feature a variety of popular musical genres like jazz, blues, pops and hip-hop. www.festival-gnaoua.net
NAADAM
June 10 - 26, 2016 Toronto, Canada
July 11 - 13, 2016 Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Marking its tenth anniversary, Luminato Festival is a ten-day celebration of the arts in Toronto, presenting over 250 events ranging from music, dance and theatre to visual art. Not to be missed shows this year include Rufus Does Judy - Canadian singer Rufus Wainwright’s recreation of Judy Garland's iconic 1961 Carnegie Hall show - The James Plays Trilogy; and contemporary dance Monumental. www.luminatofestival.com
Commemorating Mongolia’s declaration of independence from China and celebrating the culture and tradition of the country, Naadam – also known as “Three Games of Men” – will take the athletic spirits of the Mongols to the National Sports Stadium in Ulaanbaatar. Kicked off by an elaborate ceremony featuring dancers and musicians, this one-ofa-kind festival will encompass three sporting competitions: Mongolian wrestling, horse racing, and archery. www.naadamfestival.com
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WHAT’S HAPPENING
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Camel Cup
BottleRock Napa Valley
July 9, 2016 Alice Springs, Australia
May 27 – 29, 2016 Napa Valley, the United States
Held annually on the second Saturday in July, the Camel Cup will entertain spectators with a series of jockey-on-camel races at Blatherskite Park, including Mr and Miss Camel Cup challenges and “Honeymoon Handicap”, in which riders will have to pick up their brides before proceeding to the finish line. Added to the action-packed event will be belly dance performances and food stalls, making it a real county carnival. www.camelcup.com.au
Fuji Rock Festival July 22 - 24, 2016 Mount Naeba, Japan Set amidst the Naeba Ski Resort in Niigata Prefecture, Japan, Fuji Rock Festival is one of the largest outdoor music events in the land of the Rising Sun, featuring more than 200 Japanese and international musicians across seven main stages. Headliners on the list include Japanese metal band Babymetal, English four-piece jazz-fusion and funk band The New Mastersounds, and Australian electronic duo Flight Facilities. www.fujirock-eng.com
A three-day celebration of music, food and brew, BottleRock will bring over 70 rock bands across four music stages, featuring headliners like Red Hot Chili Peppers, Stevie Wonder, and Florence and The Machine. Travellers will have chances to savour Napa’s best cuisines cooked up by the area’s finest chefs; and relish interesting mash-ups of music and culinary skills at the Culinary Stage. www.bottlerocknapavalley.com
Sydney Writers' Festival May 16 – 22, 2016 Sydney, Australia Gathering writers from around the world, the annual Sydney Writers' Festival will present over 300 events inspired by all kinds of literature, in the Walsh Bay Wharves Precinct, the Opera House and the Sydney Town Hall. Australia’s acclaimed writer Tom Keneally will share how the impacts of World War One have shaped modern Australia, while singer-songwriter Paul Kelly will explain why Shakespeare continues to inspire. www.swf.org.au www.explorer-magazine.com
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NEWS
South America Adventure Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours has introduced its South America programme for 2017, featuring three new tours, new Enrich experiences, and a range of Freechoice activities. Starting off in Lima, the 19-day Peru Discovery tour will take in the beauty of the Sacred Valley and Lake Titicaca, before visiting the country's cultural capital Trujillo. The 16-day Peru Adventure & Galapagos Cruise will showcase the dynamic wildlife of the Galapagos National Park; while the 25-day South American Adventure with Rio Carnival will allow guests the chance to immerse in the world famous carnival in Brazil. The 2017 program also includes new Enrich experiences like visiting a family run paladar restaurant in Cuba, as well as various Freechoice activities, ranging from the Chinchero village tour in Cuzco, to the Nahuel Huapi Lake cruise in Argentina. www.scenic.com.au
Discover Mallorca in New Ways
For those looking to discover the distinctive culture, cuisine and wildlife of Mallorca, Spain, the newly re-opened Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa has recently launched a series of tailored Unique Experiences. Thrill-seeking guests can hop on a Harley Davidson motorcycle and soak in the beauty of the Balearic Island on a trip through the Tramuntana Mountains. Those in search of a combined land and air adventure should look out for the heli-hiking experience, which involves a 20-minute helicopter ride, followed by a hike along one of Mallorca’s most beautiful coastal trails. Foodies can visit the nearby orange co-operative, where they can try their hand at marmalade-making; while active souls can take a private speedboat to the Cabrera National Park, where they can snorkel in the summer months. www.jumeirah.com
Asian luxury cruise line Dream Cruises has unveiled the maiden itinerary for Genting Dream, designed for the China and Asia cruise markets. Departing from her homeport of Guangzhou in November, the cruise will offer a range of coastal China and Vietnam experiences, including a fivenight cruise to explore Vietnam’s scenic Da Nang and Ha Long Bay, calling in at Sanya - the southernmost city on Hainan Island - on the return leg; and a five-night journey that offers the delights Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City. Passengers can also opt for a two-night weekend cruise to the dynamic city of Hong Kong. Boasting 35 restaurant and bar concepts and an ever-changing entertainment program, Genting Dream guarantees a one-of-a-kind experience for Asian travellers. www.dreamcruiseline.com www.explorer-magazine.com
Asia Exploration
NEWS
Borneo Discovery
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Travellers staying at Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain in Sichuan, China, can now learn more about the food they eat in the resort by visiting its Farmers’ Market. Held in the resort’s vast garden every Sunday, the market not only showcases the extensive variety of vegetables and herbs planted by the resort’s landscaping team, but also invites local farmers to join in and display their harvest. While this is a great opportunity for guests to get up close with the plethora of crops in the surrounding area, local farmers can also grasp the chance to promote and sell their fresh produce to visitors. Reinforcing its commitment to use fresh, organic and sustainable produce, the resort’s cooks are also on hand to share their knowledge of recycling and in-house composting. www.sixsenses.com
Farm to Table
Looking for the best way to explore Borneo? Experience Travel Group has created a series of exciting new tours that combine astounding wildlife with exotic beaches and cultural hot spots. Beach and Wildlife:
The Classic is a 15-day itinerary that allows travellers to explore the exotic flora and fauna of Borneo, and get up close and personal with the orangutans in Kuching, Malaysia. Wildlife enthusiast should set off on the 16-day Borneo Adventure, during which they can venture into Mulu National Park, famed for its 11.5km Headhunters Trail, and scale Mount Kinabalu. Perfect for an extended holiday, the three-week Borneo Encompassed takes in the island’s finest natural wonders, including a night safari in Tabin National Park and a trek through the stunning jungles of the Danum Valley. www.experiencetravelgroup.com
A New Look at Amari Koh Samui After a year-long refurbishment program, Amari Koh Samui in Thailand has reopened with freshly revamped guest rooms, public and outdoor areas and restaurants. Guests staying in one of 197 guest rooms across three wings are now able to experience bright and comfortable surroundings with warm, Thai-inspired design elements. A new Voyager Lounge offers guests a cool respite from the sun, while the newly introduced Amaya Food Gallery takes inspiration from the wellloved street markets of Asia and serves delicious food from its interactive open kitchen. Don’t forget to book a table at the renovated Prego, one of the most acclaimed Italian restaurants on the island. www.amari.com/koh-samui
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10 NEWS
From opera and ballet to the culinary arts, Silversea
Onboard Culture Encounter
will offer the perfect blend of culture and travel with its new collection of specialty voyages, dubbed Exclusively Yours - Enriched Voyages, avalible from August 2016. These inspiring themed cruises will allow guests the chance to enjoy the comforts of
Silversea ships while indulging their passions with a range of special onboard programs, including breathtaking opera shows performed by worldrenowned Milan-based Accademia Teatro alla Scala; classic ballet performances by acclaimed soloists from the State Academic Bolshoi Theatre of Russia; and culinary voyages hosting renowned Relais & Châteaux chefs. In addition, an array of Silver Shore Select excursions will also be offered on select sailings, including a winery discovery in Santorini, Greece. www.silversea.com
Florida Sun
Holidaymakers looking for a beachfront escape in Florida should not go past the new Opal Sands Resort by Ocean Properties, perched on Clearwater Beach. Created by Design Duncan Miller Ullmann, all 230 guest rooms and suites feature chic décor with stylised wood accents, and offer spectacular oceanfront views, private balconies, and modern amenities. The resort’s outdoor pool and sun deck are perfect for kicking back with a handcrafted cocktail while the state-of-the-art fitness centre and luxury spa offer guests the ultimate relaxation. Make sure to tease your taste buds at Sea-Guini, which offers a tropical twist on seafood-centric Italian dining and unprecedented views of the Gulf of Mexico sunsets, before savouring signature cocktails, as well as dozens of classic libations, at the spacious, outdoor Sand Bar. www.opalsands.com
Travellers bound for Pattaya, Thailand, this summer should check out the recently-opened Veranda Resort Pattaya, MGallery by Sofitel. Fronting Na Jomtien Beach, famed for its natural beauty and fishing heritage, this charming retreat combines stylish modern designs with a sense of the seafaring life. The luxurious resort features 145 rooms and suites, ranging from the Seascape King and Seascape Double Queen to Family Pool Suite and Sky Pool Villa. Gastronomic delights await at The Dining Room, which dishes up Thai and international cuisines; while the rooftop I Sea Sky restaurant and bar, with its magnificent ocean views, is perfect for relaxing over a creative cocktail. Leave time to indulge at the Veranda Spa, which provides traditional therapies and signature treatments that guarantee to rejuvenate and refresh both body and mind. www.mgallery.com
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Beachfront Oasis
NEWS
Luxurious Seclusion
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Those seeking to experience contemporary luxury whilst engaging with the magnificent underwater medley of the Maldives should check out the newly re-imagined Over Water Suites at Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort, only a 35-minute speedboat ride from Malé International Airport. Recreated by boutique interior design firm The Beaumont Partnership, each 132sqm Over Water Suite is decked out with natural rattan decorative panels, Italian ceramic tiling, and custom outdoor lanterns. In addition to structural remodeling for more natural light and a greater sense of space, other highlights of all 40 suites include outdoor sun terraces with sun loungers, sun umbrella daybeds and al fresco dining tables. A ladder from each deck also offers guests direct access to the crystal waters of the lagoon and the colourful reef marine life that surrounds. www.dhigu-maldives.anantara.com
Stylish Dig
Whale Watching
Join Captain Cook Cruises this whale watching season from May 21 to November 1 for an unforgettable whale and cruise experience off the heads of Sydney Harbour. The whale watching cruises onboard oceangoing catamaran Maggie Cat, which can accommodate up to 120 passengers, offers spectacular open-air viewing and live commentary from a knowledgeable team. Each cruise is priced at AU$49 (US$38) per person and operates daily from Circular Quay Wharf 6. Well-suited to wildlife enthusiasts, a Taronga Zoo and Whale Watching Cruise Combo will also be available at AU$99 (US$76) for an adult and AU$55 (US$42) for a child. www.captaincook.com.au
The opening of the new Ibis Styles Singapore on MacPherson has enlivened the MacPherson district with 298 vibrantly decorated guest rooms and a distinctive façade which showcases the hotel's elevated pool garden, evoking a tropical resort vibe at the design-led hotel. Ranging from 18sqm to 20sqm in size, each colourful room features custom-built furniture and fittings and plush bedding in bright pops of crimson, orange and canary that engage the senses. Wreathed by a tropical haven of palm trees, the pool garden on level four offers guests a relaxing retreat where they can take a dip in the hotel’s 25m swimming pool and enjoy breakfast at the poolside chill out area. Fitness lovers can also refresh themselves with a workout session at the well-equipped gym before heading out for a city adventure. www.ibis.com
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12 KAZAKHSTAN
IN FROM
The ancient Silk Road once ran through Kazakhstan’s mountain passe new found fortunes and is proving once again to be a fascinati www.explorer-magazine.com
KAZAKHSTAN
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THE COLD
es and across its near-endless steppes. Today, the nation is enjoying ing cultural crossroads for intrepid travellers. By Nick Walton www.explorer-magazine.com
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t’s mid-morning and within the incense smoke-laced confines of Almaty’s Ascension Cathedral worshippers pray silently to gilded saints that tower high above. Resolute against Kazakhstan’s harsh winters and scorching summers, the cathedral, the world’s second tallest wooden structure, remains a beacon for the faithful of the nation’s former capital, an ancient trading city wreathed by jagged mountain ranges and the emptiness of the Taukum Desert. Almaty is a fascinating place; the largest city of Kazakhstan and home to many of its 18 million inhabitants, the commercial capital is a cultural melting pot like no other. A gateway between the ‘Stans’ of Central Asia and the Far East, Almaty proudly preserves its rich legacy as a vital way station on the ancient Silk Road. The tsarist-era church, also known as the Zenkov Cathedral, is a multi-generational meeting place. Old, stooped Babushkas, bundled in layers of brightly coloured fabric despite the last of the summer warmth, and young couples in jeans and t-shirts worship before a magnificent golden iconostasis painted by Nikolai Khludov, lighting candles as a bushy-bearded orthodox priest watches from a corner. It’s a serene and timeless scene, save for the occasional chirp of errant smartphones, as residents step through the entrance arch and make the sign of the cross, heads bowed solemnly, before finding a pew or an alter and some welcomed respite from the bright morning sunshine outside. It’s into the sunshine I wander, leaving the faithful to their prayers, emerging into the dazzling colours of the city’s Panfilov Park, one of Almaty’s many green belts. The park is popular with both locals and
visitors, who take selfies before the candy-coloured cathedral, wander the manicured gardens and visit the moving, Soviet-styled memorial to the Panfilov Heroes, 28 soldiers who died outside Moscow fighting the Germans. At the heart of the park an eternal flame burns for the soldiers of past battles, their faces, depicted beautifully in molasses-hued marble, illustrating in detail the myriad ethnicities that call Kazakhstan home. In many ways Kazakhstan is also emerging into the light of a bright future. A fascinating country of contrasts and contradictions, Kazakhstan has one foot in its rich and often turbulent past and the other stepping towards new prosperity as its many natural resources are tapped and hard currency begins to chase away the shadows of the Soviet era. This new era for the country can be seen all over Almaty, where new hotels and commercial towers reach for pale blue skies and the streets are packed with Land Rover, Mercedes and Porsche SUVs. There are luxury country clubs and housing developments, and a sleek new Ritz Carlton hotel will soon be joined by other big brands as investment flows in. The new look Kazakhstan can also be seen in the national carrier, Air Astana, which has already reached the coveted heights of the SkyTrax four star airlines, joining the likes of Air New Zealand, British Airways and Qantas as it opens up the country to the world beyond. Not that Kazakhstan is a stranger to visitors, both voluntary and otherwise. From the days of the Silk Road to Stalin’s forced relocations, Kazakhstan has offered welcomed respite to people from across Asia and Europe, from ethnic Russians and Chinese, to Ukrainians, Uyghurs, Bulgars and Tatars, and Almaty’s diversity is best seen at its Green Markets, a fascinating food emporium at the heart of the city, where the vital ingredients of many regional dishes can be sourced direct from the producers.
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KAZAKHSTAN
Surrounded by stout, Soviet-era apartment blocks and tree lined boulevards (Almaty is one of the greenest cities in the world, with expansive green belts like the Park of the First President breaking up the urban crawl), the markets have the architectural ambiance of a Communist-era public swimming pool, with green hued tiles and beams of bright afternoon sunshine reaching from high skylights to concrete floors polished with the passing of generations of hungry shoppers. The sprawling market is divided into various sections; there are butcher aisles where horse steaks, a national favourite, are prepared alongside fresh lamb sausages, and deli counters where cured meats and caviar are presented in towering piles. In the vegetable section pomegranates and the largest apples I’ve ever seen gleam in the sunshine (Almaty is the ancestral home of the apple), and in the dried goods corner nuts from Persia and Afghanistan are piled high next to dried figs and apricots from the steppes. There is also a long line of Korean stalls selling authentic delicacies, from vibrantly-red kimchi to ddukbokkie rice cakes, evidence of the many ethnic Koreans who have called Kazakhstan home for generations. Nearby spice stalls are ablaze with colour as the flavours of the Far East continue to migrate west as they did on the Silk Road. For the intrepid, the Green Market is also a great spot to try some of Kazakhstan’s more daring delicacies, from kymyz, fermented horse milk, to shubat, fermented camel milk.
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horse meat with long silky noodles, the national dish; to assyp, a lamb’s heart, lungs and rice, wrapped in fat and steamed in a Kazakh take on haggis, and cheburek, parcels of pastry stuffed with beef that proved the perfect snack for ever-moving nomads. For a better perspective on Kazakhstan’s new fortunes I head the next morning to the Zaiilisky Alatau mountains and the Shymbulak ski resort. We climb steadily away from the city, the suburbs of Almaty quickly replaced by dense forests, the towering peaks growing larger in the
As the sun begins to settle in the sky and the lights of the weathered Ladas and gleaming new Land Rovers come on, I head to Gakku, one of the city’s leading Kazakh restaurants, to see how all that mouthwatering produce can be employed. Seated in a traditional Kazakh yurt I’m protected from the evening winds, which whip down from the mountains as the light drains from the sky. It’s the perfect chance to feast on a host of authentic local dishes, from besbarmak, slow-cooked mutton and www.explorer-magazine.com
16 KAZAKHSTAN windscreen. The modern cable car that climbs the peaks soars over the top of the Medeu, an iconic outdoor speed skating and bandy rink located in the valley below the resort. First built in 1949, the stadium, as well as the alpine resort high above, were revitalised in time for Kazakhstan’s hosting of the 2011 Asian Winter Games. The Medeu also welcomes the annual Voice of Asia music festival during the summer months.
dark brooding eyes drink tea, smoke shisha and gossip in hushed voices in the booths that line Alasha’s terrace. It’s a far cry from the perception of Kazakhstan abroad, one of a backwards nation that’s still mired in its Soviet past while struggling towards modernity.
But that’s the beauty of Kazakhstan; it’s balancing its rich culture while navigating rapid progress, and much of that new prosperity can be seen in Astana, a short flight north. The city, which was renamed and thrust from Two-thirds of the way up the craggy peaks, Shymbulak could be in town to capital status in 1997, couldn’t be more different from the mountainthe Italian Alps or on the flanks of Canada’s most popular runs. There ringed trading city of Almaty; mirage-like, there is the shimmer of new are chic international restaurants with fusion menus and old and commercial towers and apartment blocks; wide, proud boulevards planned new world wine lists, and clutches of well-heeled locals and tourists by Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa that stretch towards the horizon; basking in the sun at al fresco tables, enjoying views that reach far and grand palaces and monuments, including the Norman Foster-designed down to the new skyscrapers of Almaty. pyramid-shaped Palace of Peace and Reconciliation and yurt-shaped Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center (home to an indoor beach), as well as the Central Despite the flow of new money into Kazakhstan, or perhaps because Concert Hall, one of the largest in the world, designed to resemble a dombra, of it, preserving the region’s traditional culture is in vogue. In the a traditional Kazakh instrument. Everything is shrouded by the hesitant alpine valley below the resort Kazakhstan’s rich nomadic hunting silence of a newly minted park. culture is maintained at Sunkar Falcon Farm, where Pavel Pfander, a Kazakh-German falcon trainer, thrills visitors with the hunting displays of his falcons, griffin vultures, and massive golden eagles. He explains the breeding and training process, and the traditional use of birds of prey by the nomads for hunting, before unleashing the birds, some the size of small children, on a series of mock hunts, the birds taking turns to swop from the heavens, their feathers dusting the heads of the crowd as they pass. Further down the mountain I stop in at Alasha, a traditional Uzbek restaurant capped with glistening blue domes favoured during the day by the city’s idly rich and at night by its power brokers. We dine on horse meat salad and plov, a traditional dish of rice, lamb and raisins cooked over open fires, amidst beautiful Timurid architecture that smacks of Arabian Nights. With billowing curtains protecting us from the afternoon sunshine, teenage girls with raven hair and
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A City of Peace recognized by UNESCO, Astana is preparing for its time in the spotlight; the city will host the 2017 World Expo, welcoming an estimated three million visitors, many from far beyond Kazakhstan or its surrounding Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) neighbours. The theme of the expo will be ‘Future Energy’, with a focus not only the future of energy, in which Kazakhstan will play an increasingly important role thanks to vast oil, natural gas and coal deposits, but also on the energy of this emerging, captivating destination. From the top of the Bayterek, an observation tower at the city’s centre themed on the mythological Tree of Life, it’s as easy to see how far the city has come as it is to imagine how far its ambitious first president Nursultan Nazarbayev, whose palm print is set in gold within a giant gilded orb atop the tower, might take it. At the nearby, world-class National Museum of Kazakhstan visitors can journey through the country’s often tumultuous past before watching Astana grow from the floor in a fascinating light and sound display. But for now, from the city’s highest point, billiard table-flat steppes wreath the sparkling new city and sprint into the distance, bringing a sense of Kazakhstan’s nomadic heritage to its bright new future. Air Astana (https://airastana.com), a four star Skytrax airline, offers direct flights between Hong Kong and Almaty, with business class fares from US$2,200 per person return. www.explorer-magazine.com
18 MYANMAR
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MYANMAR
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B u r mese
Dreaming Travelling through some of Asia’s most beautiful landscapes, Nick Walton cruises the Ayeyarwady River in Myanmar aboard the newly launched Strand Cruise.
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t’s a captivating sight as our grumbling little prop plane descends through wispy cloud cover, catching the first rays of morning just as they bathe Bagan’s thousands of terracotta temples in gold. An armada of hot air balloons in maroon, teal and mandarin rises above the vibrant tropical green landscape to greet the sunrise and the whole mesmerising scene is captured by camera toting travellers glued to their Perspex windows as we line up for our final approach. Myanmar is filled with magical moments like this, when the nation’s rich heritage and its bold future meet like waves lapping at a shoreline. One of the fastest emerging destinations in the world, Myanmar has stepped out of the political shadows and now welcomes travellers of every persuasion, from backpackers and pilgrims, to well-
heeled world wanderers looking to capture the perfect shot of Bagan’s temple plains from a thousand feet up. However, there is one thing that binds many travellers to Myanmar, and many of the destinations they seek to visit: the Ayeyarwady River. For centuries this mighty waterway has been the lifeblood of Burma. More recently it has helped travel companies take their first tentative steps into Myanmar, with luxurious river cruisers plying the gentle waters between ancient former capitals like Mandalay, Bagan and Sagaing. The newest arrival is The Strand Cruise, an aquatic incarnation of Yangon’s luxurious, century-old hotel. The ship’s crew meet us at Bagan’s pint-sized airport and escort us to breakfast, served in the serene grounds of a local lacquer workshop. As we dine on fresh croissants and
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20 MYANMAR
bathroom, faces the river bank and from its floor-to-ceiling Juliet balcony I watch children play in the shallows below.
fruit, artisans polish and intricately decorate lacquer boxes, alms bowls and traditional puppets in the shade of a stilted studio, but it’s not long until we’re off to explore this most thrilling of Burmese destinastions. As the sun climbs high in the sky we visit the iconic Shwezigon Pagoda, part of the Bagan Heritage Trail. Its goldleafed flanks shimmer in the dazzling morning sunshine as tourists mingle with locals and religious pilgrims. At the ancient Ananda Temple nearby, monks wrapped in crimson robes celebrate a religious festival with a feast while chanting echoes through the shrine’s smooth, stone halls. One of the most important temples in the country, we tour Ananda’s corridors and gaze up at its four gilded Buddhas in the company of experienced local guides, who map out the rise and fall of the Pagan Kingdom which once dominated modern day Myanmar. We soon arrive at the 54-passenger RV Strand Cruise, meeting her at the edge of a gentle curve in the river, the ship’s bright white façade striking against the earth tones of the rural landscape. Smiling young waiters offer new arrivals cold drinks and moist towels as they guide them to one of 27 staterooms. My main deck deluxe cabin, with its queen sized bed, teakwood floors, writing desk and ample sized www.explorer-magazine.com
The first thing you notice is how elegantly appointed the ship is; there’s timelessness at play but with a contemporary undertone that makes the décor undeniably luxurious yet refreshing. Black and white photos in black lacquer frames line rich teak bookcases; golden rice bowls cling to the main stairwell forming a shimmering mural; and there’s a faint smell of polish and beeswax mixed with rich coffee and subtle spice in the air. Despite its heritage cues, The Strand Cruise is a modern homage to Burma’s history, rather than a floating mausoleum to the past. The top deck is the heart of the ship, with its little (and bracingly cold) plunge pool, its wrap-around decks and its army of sun loungers. As the sun hangs low in the sky, guests gather in the sumptuous bar or at the rattan lounge suites which line the shaded deck, and sip cocktails the same colour as the clouds above. The light draining from the sky leaves the tops of Bagan’s 2,500 odd temples, stupas and pagodas in profile against a sky the colour of amber. It’s all quite magical. The next morning the views from Tant Kyi Pagoda, also known as The Glass Monastery, are equally enchanting. Far below the Ayeyarwady meanders through a vast flood plain, the silhouettes of an army of 11th century stupas stark on the horizon. It’s hard to imagine things as they must have been; each of Bagan’s thousands of stupas and pagodas (researchers believe the river has swallowed up many hundreds more) was built not in isolation but surrounded by family homes, businesses, schools and monasteries. A thriving civilization once dwelled here beside the river. Centuries later, its crumbling houses of worship would
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inspire writers like Rudyard Kipling and George Orwell. There’s plenty to be inspired by as we sail north, our course at the whim of the river and its ever-shifting sand banks. Despite a raft of sophisticated technology at their disposal, crew still navigate the river using traditional striped poles, which they dip into the caramelcoloured waters in long, arching sweeps. At some points the riverbed rises up to greet us and the first mate is sent ahead in a small boat to poke and prod our way around the obstructions. We pass less prudent vessels, great plumes of exhaust enveloping them as they struggle to pass an unexpected sand bar. The itinerary’s long afternoon, evening, and following morning spent cruising is a great chance to explore the ship and soak in the lingering landscapes uninterupted. Beyond the bar, with its Cuban cigar humidor and single malt whisky collection, is an intimate library filled with stories of Southeast Asia, of river life and of Burma’s colonial era. A tiny spa proves popular in the late afternoon when guests book themselves in for full body massages, facials and invigorating scrubs. Many others bask in the afternoon sunshine around the pool or join the captain in the bridge as the ship passes riverside villages and toots to convoys of colourful local ferries. Dining is a lavish affair onboard The Strand Cruise. Breakfasts are lingering affairs that fuel guests for their daily excursions, whether it’s exploring Ava by traditional horse and walking the length of the famed U Bein Bridge, while sun deck lunch buffets are a
great way to enjoy both the cuisine and the landscapes of one of Asia’s most beautiful nations. The traditional afternoon tea served at The Strand Hotel is replicated late one afternoon, with delicate cakes and china pots of locally-sourced tea, while dinners, served in the dark and sexy Strand Restaurant, are a symphony of influences, textures and traditions. There’s always something new on offer; after an afternoon exploring the whitewashed terraces of the Paya Hsinbyume pagoda in Mingun, crew construct a bonfire and host an impromptu cocktail party on a remote sandbank and on the last night we’re treated at a traditional banquet influenced by the cuisine of Myanmar’s remote Shan State.
most popular tourist route in the country, is quite generic, making it ideal for first timers to Myanmar or for those looking to relax rather than temple hop but not for travellers looking to truly delve into the destination. A little miscommunication means elements of that same itinerary never take place, including our own balloon ride over Bagan and an early morning alms ceremony with local monks that many in our group were looking forward to. However, the ship’s beautiful design, the attention to detail of its décor, and the Strand Cruise’s hard-working crew, who are happy to go above and beyond for every passenger, will ensure it won’t be long until it’s an icon in its own right.
Of course every new operation has its teething problems and The Strand Cruise is no different. The itinerary, which traces the
Bagan to Mandalay over four nights from US$1,976 per person. www.thestrandcruise. com www.explorer-magazine.com
22 BUDGET TRAVEL
WALLET
FRIENDLY WANDERING LOOKING TO STRETCH YOUR DOLLAR FURTHER ON YOUR NEXT FAMILY VACATION? THESE FIVE EUROPEAN CITIES HELP YOU GET MORE BANG FOR YOUR TRAVELLING BUCK.
TRAVELLING WITH COST IN MIND DOESN’T NECESSARILY HAVE TO LIMIT WHAT YOU GET FROM A DESTINATION. WHILE SOME CITIES ARE RENOWNED FOR SETTING TRAVELLERS BACK MORE, OTHERS HAVE JUST AS MUCH TO OFFER EVEN THE MOST COST CONSCIOUS OF TRAVELLERS: YOU JUST NEED TO KNOW WHERE TO GO. NO MATTER THE BUDGET OR DESTINATION, EUROPE HAS LONG BEEN AN ATTRACTING FACTOR FOR MANY WANTING TO KNOW AND DISCOVER CENTURIES OF HISTORY, EXPLORING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES AND TASTING THE FINEST OF FOOD AND WINE. Named the city of a hundred spires, the Czech Republic’s capital is characterised by its majestic baroque and gothic architecture, but this majesty isn’t reflected in its prices. Wander through the city’s cobbled streets and stop by its atmospheric cafes and bars, which each make the nation’s great brewing tradition so enticing. By choosing the authentic local spots, sampling the culinary specialties – as well as the beer – won’t leave you out of pocket. Many attractions can be seen for free too; Spend a day exploring the city’s gardens, squares and historic monuments, on foot or by tram.
Hungary’s capital, which is divided into the two halves Buda and Pest by the River Danube that flows through, combines ornate architecture – from baroque to Art Nouveau – with a thriving arts scene. You’ll also notice an affluence of bathhouses, which are a result of the city’s history of Roman rule and its abundance of natural hot springs. By avoiding the most popular tourist haunts, these thermal spas can be experienced for a modest price. Hop between historic monuments and museums, then seek out the city’s authentic local restaurants to sample some of the Hungarian fare.
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Sprawled across the hills overlooking the Tagus River, Portugal’s capital city is a picturesque enclave of domed cathedrals, plazas, and the pastelcoloured houses of the old town. But perhaps the greatest pleasure to relish here is simply soaking up the city’s convivial spirit. Find a spot in a street-side café to listen to the Fado singing Lisbon has become so well known for, then take a look around some of the city’s museums. Explore Museu Nacional de Azulejo and Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga without paying any entrance fee by visiting on the first Sunday of the month.
While Naples is most often noted for its rich culture and signature pizza, the city has an exceptionally scenic setting too, situated on the Bay of Naples by Mount Vesuvius. As a result, this southern Italian city entices many people in, but thankfully this hasn’t sent prices soaring. In fact, the city remains one of Italy’s cheapest for tourists passing through. Wander through the UNESCO World Heritage historic town and settle into one of its casual eateries to tuck into the deservedly world-famous Neapolitan pizza.
Like many major cities Madrid caters to all budgets, but few places have so much to offer cost conscious travellers too. Here visitors can discover the sights, wander through markets and indulge in tapas and the local wine, without digging deep into their pockets. Aside from its grand boulevards, sprawling gardens and architecture, Madrid stands out for its thriving international arts scene. Visit the Museo del Prado at the end of the day to take a look around for free. Visit these cities and more with Trafalgar. www.trafalgar.com www.explorer-magazine.com
24 TRANS ALPINE – SAWADEE
GO WEST YOUNG MAN NEW ZEALAND’S TRANZALPINE REMAINS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ICONIC RAIL JOURNEYS, DISCOVERS NICK WALTON
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26 TRANS ALPINE – SAWADEE
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y breath fogs up the window and I have to bunch up my sleeve to wipe away the condensation that’s building the higher we climb, but the view is well worth the effort. Outside is a winter wonderland, a landscape of steep mountain sides, their peaks lost in low clouds, their flanks pasted with thick icing sugar snow that lies in clumps beside the railway line. I feel as if we’re at the top of the world as the train chugs and shrugs its way up the incline, climbing ever higher into the snowy mountains. My first time travelling on the TranzAlpine between Christchurch and the weather whipped town of Greymouth was in 1988, only a year after the traditional Christchurch-Greymouth express trains, which had been operating the 223 kilometer route since the 1920s, were replaced with a new tourist-friendly initiative designed to showcase the remarkable diversity of the South Island. The old rolling stock was given a vibrant new blue paint job, larger windows and stylish dining cars were added and suddenly staff that had been working a line used almost exclusively by farmers, students and retirees headed to and from the ‘big smoke’, had to cater to international travellers who had come to ride the rails, cross the line’s four towering viaducts and play “hold your breath” through each of the 19 tunnels. Despite the convenience of the jetage, the elegance and nostalgia of train travel still appeals to travellers from across the globe, whether its riding the rails through the Canadian Rockies, the backwaters of Kerala or through the rural landscape of New Zealand. If fact, not long after it was launched the TranzAlpine was named one of the top ten day trip train journeys in the world, a distinction it’s proudly retained.
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In the years since that first Grandmother-escorted winter journey I’ve travelled on the train twice again, as a teenager and as an adult, one way and return, in summer and winter, alone and with friends, and the magic remains. Under Kiwi Rail’s ownership modern rolling stock was introduced in 2012, with an advanced air bag suspension system for a quieter, smoother trip and non-reflective windows to ensure captivating views. There is a sense of excitement in the air at Christchurch Railway Station as travellers congregate on the platform, finding their appointed carriage. With suburban trains dying out in the 1970s the TranzAlpine remains a minor celebrity and locals wave as the train chugs its way through suburbs of weatherboarded houses, past timber yards and country stores and then out across the flat Canterbury plains, in summer a brilliant palate of golds and greens, in winter a wide open landscape of dark earth and white snow, the lumbering line of ancient peaks that make up the Southern Alps crawling ever closer. Most of my fellow passengers, in their rows of blue airline seats, are content to gaze at the scenery and daydream, plugged into the train’s GPS triggered commentary system, while others, myself included, bundle up and head to the open air observation car, certainly one of the best additions to the TranzAlpine. Our route slips between Lake Sarah and Lake Grasmere and then follows the course of the ice-fed Waimakairiri River, its mineral-rich waters turquoise and foaming white. We charge into the Waimakariri Gorge, crossing the braided river, its name meaning ‘cold waters’ in the Maori lounge, on a low slung bridge that cascades across white-hued river stones and a vivid streak of icy blue before reaching land again. Not long after we’re soaring over the formidable Staircase Viaduct, at 73 meters the highest on the line.
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There are chances to also step off the train, including at the journey’s summit, the tiny railway town of Arthurs Pass, where the train halts long enough for a few photo poses and a stretch of the legs. Arthurs Pass is only home to 50 souls today but was once an important gold mining centre. Heading west again we dive into the Otira Tunnel, once the world’s longest, emerging high above the deep mountain valleys of the dramatic West Coast, passing through ancient rainforests and then thick groves of alpine beech on the decent towards Greymouth. Everything is different on this side of the Southern Alps. It’s wet almost all year round as clouds from the Southern Ocean dump their rain on the climb over the peaks, and the golden plains of Canterbury are replaced by timeless rainforests, towering ferns and endless mist. Our journey continues as the train curls its way around Lake Brunner on the approach to Greymouth. Here many passengers leave the train bound for the glaciers, national parks and coastal communities of the west. Others, on day trips, lunch on whitebait fritters and Bluff oysters at the local pub before making their way back to the station, where the east bound train stands ready to start the long, steady climb, back into the alpine valleys and ancient peaks of the real Middle Earth. For more info visit: www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz/ tranzalpine/ www.explorer-magazine.com
28 INDIAN OCEAN
GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS
OF THE INDIAN OCEAN
With a plethora of tempting culinary options available at each of its properties, Constance Hotels and Resorts offer the ultimate gourmet encounters across the Indian Ocean. www.explorer-magazine.com
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Constance Le Prince Maurice, Mauritius Start a romantic culinary journey at Constance Le Prince Maurice with a pre-dinner tipple at the elegant, intimate Lotus Lounge Bar, home to a stunning range of local rums, before strolling down lantern-lit pontoons to enjoy a candlelit seafood feast on one of the five floating decks at Le Barachois restaurant. For a touch of Mauritian fine dining, visit L’Archipel restaurant, matching your meal with an expertly-chosen drop from the Wine Cellar next door. Finish your night off with exquisite cocktails at the Laguna Bar, where the live music and cool sea breeze are guaranteed to whisk your stress away.
Constance Belle Mare Plage, Mauritius Epicureans can embark on a round-the-world culinary adventure at Constance Belle Mare Plage. The Blue Penny Café regularly hosts Michelin-starred chefs from around the world; while at La Spiaggia, Mediterranean dishes and fresh lobster specialties are served in a romantic beachside setting. Visit Deer Hunter restaurant, which overlooks the resort’s golf course (keep an eye out for the deer, resident of the course), to get an authentic taste of traditional Mauritian fare; and indulge your sweet tooth with a decadent ice cream sundae at the Indigo beach restaurant.
Constance Lémuria, Seychelles Surrounded by a tropical garden, Seahorse at Constance Lémuria is a fine-dining restaurant, offering refined contemporary cuisine with European and Indian Ocean touches. At the laid-back Beach Bar & Grill, guests can satisfy their crustacean craving with fresh seafood cooked in Creole style while taking in the spectacular views of Petite Anse Kerlan beach. Catering to all palates, the hotel also boasts a lavish buffet of global cuisines at Legend restaurant, which hosts special theme evenings each week.
Constance Ephélia, Seychelles Gourmets are spoiled for choice at Constance Ephélia. Enjoy a smorgasbord of world www.explorer-magazine.com
30 INDIAN OCEAN cuisines at Corossol; or feast on a Mediterranean buffet, with dishes inspired by Italy, Spain, Morocco and Lebanon, at Helios. Move on to the Adam and Eve Bar to quench your thirst with a fresh fruit or vegetable juice, but if you are looking for something stronger, head over to the Cyann Bar, which boasts a unique selection of aged rums, single malt whiskies and sakes.
Constance Halaveli, Maldives Constance Halaveli celebrates the diversity of world cuisine with an extensive buffet at the Jahaz restaurant and bar, where guests can enjoy their meal in the elegant dining room or al fresco. Scrumptious Asianinspired fusion cuisine is on offer at Jing, where Asian ingredients are married with European flavours at a stunning setting perched above the lagoon; while Meeru offers a candlelit dinner under a star-studded velvet sky, with seasoned chefs serving fresh seafood and meat over charcoal grills.
Constance Moofushi, Maldives After a day of adrenaline-pumping water sports at Constance Moofushi, relax on the beach with a refreshing ice tea from the Totem Bar in time for a captivating Maldivian sunset, before whetting your appetite with a vast selection of grilled seafood under a verdant canopy of tropical palms at Alizee restaurant. Guests will never get bored in the Mantra restaurant, which changes its theme and specialties daily. After dinner, amble over to the Manta Bar and dance the night away to the tunes spun by a resident DJ.
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EYES
GADGETS
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ON THE
WORLD CAPTURE THE BEST IMAGES AND VIDEO ON YOUR NEXT VACATION WITH THESE CUTTING-EDGE BUT TRAVELLER-FRIENDLY CAMERAS.
Small yet powerful, the new DL series of premium compact cameras by Nikon are ergonomically designed to fit into pockets and backpacks. With three different models the new range combines powerful NIKKOR optics with a large 20.8-megapixel one-inch BSI CMOS sensor to create perfect pictures, especially when shooting in low light. The collection also features high-speed autofocus; a 20 frames-per-second continuous shooting capability; and 4K UHD video recording and thanks to new Nikon SnapBridge connectivity, photo sharing has never been easier. www.nikon.com
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32 GADGETS
The new Leica SL mirrorless system camera sets new standards in terms of speed, picture quality and versatility for photographers on the go. Featuring a 24MP full-frame CMOS sensor and an EyeRes electronic viewfinder developed especially for the SL series, the newest Leica boasts a touchscreen 2.95inch back panel display and the ability to take up to 11 frames per second at full resolution or 4k video at a rate of 30 frames per second. The full-frame sensor guarantees impressive dynamic range, excellent contrast rendition, exceptional sharpness, and noise-free images in almost all lighting conditions, while the aluminium body is robust enough for everyday use, making it a traveller’s new best friend. www.leica-camera.com
Fujifilm has created an even lighter addition to its family of premium interchangeable lens cameras with the release of the X-T10 . With a new innovative autofocus system, large electronic Real Time Viewfinder, and incredible continuous shooting speeds of up to 8.0fps, the new digital camera features the vintage lines loved by many travellers. Using the latest generation 16.3 Megapixel APS-C X-Trans CMOS II sensor with built-in phase detection autofocus along with the high-performance EXR Processor II, the X-T10 is compatible with all Fuhinon lenses to deliver excellent resolution and outstanding image quality in a package that’s even lighter than its big brother, the X-T1. www.fujifilm.com
Boasting the world's fastest autofocus, Sony has added the new 6300 to its award-winning line-up of light-weight mirrorless cameras. The new model features a 4D FOCUS system with 425 phase detection AF points that can lock focus on a subject in 0.05 seconds, and offers continuous shooting at 11 frames per second as well as high resolution 4K video recording. The newly developed 24.2 MP APS-C sized Exmor CMOS sensor pairs with a BIONZ X image processing engine to produce outstanding image quality. www.sony.com
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