NOV - DEC 2016
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE
gaLaPagos the land beFOre time
sWitzerland by train unusual beaches OF the WOrld
SIEM REAP
SRI LANKAN AIRLINES
HOTEL TEATRO
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
W
elcome to the latest issue of Explorer Magazine, the
environmentally-
friendly
travel
magazine for true world wanderers. As we draw close to the end of yet another year, we have strived to bring you a true cross section of the global travel experience, from adventurous destinations to more familiar locales, from iconic vistas, to emerging hotspots. We kick off with the best boutique hideaways in Siem Reap, the Cambodian city that is the gateway to the Unesco-listed Angkor Wat complex. We then explore the lakes, mountains and alpine plateaus of Switzerland using the country’s comprehensive train network, before heading south to the ancient trading city of Porto in Portugal, to check in at a very special urban retreat. We bring you some of the best road trips for campervan fans, and some of the world’s most unusual beaches for sun-worshippers, and fly to India and Sri Lanka with two aspiring national carriers, before delving into the heart of the Pacific with a cruise through the mesmerising Galapagos Islands, the destination that inspired Darwin’s work on natural selection. Wherever you’re spending the holidays and whatever kind of traveller you’re evolving into, we hope Explorer continues to inspire your imagination in the year to come. Safe Travels
David Leung Publisher
WORLD IN PICS
A polar bear enjoys a late summer dip in Canada’s Northwest passage
PICTURE Passengers from Scenic Cruises’ new Scenic Azure explore Porto’s Palácio da Bolsa
Amsterdam remains one of the most popular year round destinations in the world
Autumn brings active travellers to beautiful Yosemite National Park. Credit: Yosemite Mariposa County
Early risers are greeted with spectacular views of the Taj Mahal. Credit: Wendy Wu Tours
FROM ANCIENT INDIAN TEMPLES TO THE THESE ARE THE IMAGES IN 4
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PERFECT
WORLD IN PICS
Humpback Whales continue to seduce travellers to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Credit: Tahala Beach Nature Reserve
Paris comes to life as the City of Light. Credit: EasyJet Holidays
Macau’s newest musical hit, Thriller, has launched at the new Parisian Macao resort
CHANGING OF THE LEAFS IN YOSEMITE, NSPIRING OUR TRAVEL THIS SEASON. WWW.EXPLORER-MAGAZINE.COM
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WHAT'S HAPPENING
RIO CARNIVAL February 24 - 28, 2017 riO de JaneirO, brazil
A pre-Lent dance party in one of the world’s hottest cities, the famous Rio Carnival attracts millions of festival lovers and over 200 samba schools, including Brazil’s most popular, Manguiera, to perform each year. The five-day event kicks off with a coronation of the Carnival King, followed by street band performances, choreographed dances, a samba parade, and numerous grand balls. Be sure to pop in at one of the city’s night clubs to experience high-energy Brazilian culture first-hand. www.rio-carnival.net
BATTLE OF THE ORANGES
February 25 - 28, 2017 ivrea, italy
A celebration of freedom from a tyrannical lord’s oppression dating back to the 12th century, 100,000 spectators witness the Battle of the Oranges each year in the town square of Ivrea in northwestern Italy. This festival is filled with joy and energy as 500,000 kilograms of oranges are vigorously hurled between armoured competitors in horse-drawn carts and commoners on the ground. Don’t forget to wear a red headdress or cap if you want exemption from direct hits. www.storicocarnevaleivrea.it
HOGMANAY CELEBRATION
december 30, 2016 – January 1, 2017 edinburgh, scOtland
Countdown to the end of the year at the world famous New Year’s Party, the Hogmanay Celebration in Edinburgh, where, for three days revellers can enjoy exciting festivities and great music from around the world. Kicking off with a torchlight procession in Old Town, the festival will include concerts by Scottish musician Paolo Nutini, and English indie-rock band The Charlatans; don’t miss out on the midnight fireworks that mark the start of the new year. www.edinburghshogmanay.com
SUNDANCE FILM FESTIVAL January 19 - 29, 2017 utah, united states An annual American film festival held in Park City, Utah, the Sundance Film Festival celebrates creativity and discovers emerging talents in the industry. Hollywood filmmakers, actors and producers congregate at Park City for screening of notable feature film, potential blockbusters and the moving documentaries, with filmmakers seeking glory from audiences and the industry alike. www.sundance.org
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OctOber 20 – 23, 2016 Queensland, australia
WHAT'S HAPPENING
SOUTH BEACH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL February 22 - 26, 2017 miami, the united states
Offering some of the world’s best gourmet seafood, the South Beach Wine & Food Festival at Miami Beach is filled with over 80 events over a five-day food journey. Featuring more than 350 renowned culinary talents, including Rachael Ray, America’s most prestigious gourmet gathering promises visitors a chance to taste freshly served delicacies with selected wines, at pop-up kitchens and beachfront cooking workshops. www.corporate.sobefest.com
HARBIN INTERNATIONAL ICE & SNOW SCULPTURE FESTIVAL
January 5 – February 28, 2017 harbin, china
A themed winter event hosted annually for over 30 years, the Harbin International Ice & Snow Sculpture Festival exhibits the world's largest ice sculptures, each made with ice from the Songhua River, in China’s northern province of Heilongjiang. The international festival brings together fireworks, ice lanterns, and Chinese New Year carnival activities that assure visitors of a visually-rich experience, as lights from the artwork turn cold ice pieces into warm-coloured, glowing sculptures. www.icefestivalharbin.com
BURNING THE CLOCKS december 21, 2016 brightOn, england
An annual event that happens on the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year, Burning the Clocks brings people of the whole city together to celebrate community and the end of winter. Lantern makers put their dreams and thoughts into their work and join the parade to the sea shore, which concludes with a bonfire on Brighton beach, marking the end of the year. www.samesky.co.uk
JUNKANOO PARADE
december 26, 2016 January 1, 2017 nassau, bahamas
With its origins in 17th century West Africa, the Junkanoo Parade street festival, held in the city of Nassau, is a mix of colour, music, and culture. Enriched by national pride and passion, this cultural celebration infuses the city with life and energy as masked marching bands and colourful floats move down the streets to the rhythmic sound of brass instruments, cowbells, and drums which beat in every corner of the island. www.bahamas.co.uk
OctOber 20 – 23, 2016 Queensland, australia
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NEWS Freedive with manta rays at the world’s largest natural manta feeding destination 45 minutes from a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas in the Baa Atoll, during their annual migration across the Indian Ocean, and witness the spectacle first-hand before the end of November. The protected site of Hanifaru Bay can attract more than 100 rays around the time of the full moon. With a wing span of up to seven metres, manta rays congregate at Hanifaru Bay during the southwest monsoon and, with optimum wind and tide conditions, enter a shallow cul-de-sac in the reef to feed on microscopic plankton, small fish and crustaceans. www.anantara.com
MAntA RAy Rendezvous
AficionAdo Affections
Perfect for families and groups of friends looking for some sensory resourcing and tranquil breathing space, Villa Maya Retreat, which stretches out along the banks of the Penet River in the beautiful village of Cepaka on Bali's south-western coast, is determined to offer travellers a paradise shaded by natural jungle vegetation and lush tropical gardens, ideal for both relaxation and socialising. With six individual bedroom pavilions, three with plunge pools, the retreat reflects Balinese design through the villa's tropical architecture and interiors, including the traditional alang-alang thatched living pavilions and poolside bale. Villa Maya Retreat at Tabanan offers plenty of outdoor living spaces among the jungle gardens; alfresco lunch on the dining deck; a 12-metre pool to cool down and a massage in the garden bale; as well as a lounge terrace overhanging the river, on which guests can sip pre-dinner aperitifs, leaving visitors refreshed and rejuvenated for their return home. www.villamayaretreat.com
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Visitors at St. Regis Macao, Cotai Central, can now enjoy its new Aficionado Experiences. The hotel has partnered with prestigious brands like Italian premier tailor Kiton and one of the oldest Cognac Houses in France, Cognac Croizet, to provide the St Regis Cognac Aficionado Experience. This new experience will bring guests back to 1904, when the first St. Regis opened in New York, and offers travellers the opportunity to have a hand-tailored bespoke suit made using the finest fabrics from Italy, followed by a chance to taste rare cognacs never before available to the public, during a sublime five-course dinner with a menu prepared by chef Gaetano Palumbo. Finish your stay with a unique two-night Gemology lavish spa retreat. http://www.stregisaficionado.com/
ReAl RejuvenAtion
AntArcticA Adventures
NEWS
For an exciting and unforgettable experience on the cold land, join Australia's most diverse Antarctica operator, Chimu Adventures, for a newly launched exclusive new sail and ski expedition to the icy continent. Get pumped for the 28-day adventure on board a centrally-heated, high-tech expedition yacht, which will depart from Ushuaia in Argentina on November 19, 2017. The new tour is set to be the adventure of a lifetime for thrill-seeking and highly skilled skiers to explore virgin summits and skiers untouched slopes. Led by highly experienced skipper, mate and expedition leader, this epic adventure includes Australia's most diverse range of Antarctic travel options, offering visitors the chance to see the dazzling landscapes and unique wildlife from skis, kayaks, and the deck of the expedition yacht, Icebird. www.chimuadventures.com
coAstAl countdown Sydney and NSW will turn a delightful shade of blue in November with the start of the 2016 jacaranda season, offering guests a memorable visit to the city's Eastern suburbs, and the historic town of Grafton, known as the jacaranda capital of Australia, on the NSW North Coast. Grafton hosts the annual Grafton Jacaranda Festival, and is home to Australia's largest jacaranda tree, measuring 30 metres high with a six-metre circumference and crown of around 36 metres. Visitors can pack a picnic and head to Lavender Bay, Hunters Hill, and Wollstonecraft, for a long, lazy lunch under the trees; or visit one of Sydney's most famous jacarandas, the giant jacaranda tree at the University of Sydney, which has been cloned to ensure it lives on. Neighbouring suburbs of Glebe, Camperdown, and Erskineville are also worth exploring. www.sydney.com
Health conscious travellers can experience ultimate relaxation at The Westin Cairo Golf Resort & Spa Katameya Dunes, which has debuted in the capital of Egypt, taking guests to a higher level of luxury and wellbeing. Located in the prestigious community of Katameya Dunes, anchored by a 27-hole championship golf course designed by world-renowned Nick Faldo and Brian Curley, the 135-room property is designed with a biophilic-focus, suggesting that a connection to nature enhances well-being. Each of the well-appointed guestrooms offers views of the lush landscape from verdant fairways to meandering lagoons. Three dining options, including a pool bar, golf club bar, and Mediterranean restaurant Paloma, serve up quality culinary delights. An idyllic, naturally-lit indoor plunge pool, and a heated outdoor pool located at the centre of the resort, along with the 3000 square metre Heavenly Spa by Westin boasting a high-tech steam room and sauna, are designed to soothe the spirit, rejuvenate the body, and enrich the mind. www.westin.com/cairo
HeAvenly wHolesomeness
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NEWS
spRing sAlutAtions
Huntington house, a unique building situated on Satemwa, is a working tea and coffee estate in Malawi that is rich in character and history, which will satisfy the demands of discerning travellers. Renee Watson, founder of the Conscious Movement Education will present a Pilates mat class, while Ashtanga Yoga teacher Flora Petri will guide guests though Suryanamaskara, the Sun Salutations. Visitors can enjoy a fresh and fruity breakfast, guided walks through the beautiful tea estate and forests, and lunch that is prepared fresh from the garden. Finish off your experience with a Satemwa special, the MoTEAto, which is full of green tea and fresh garden mint, a nutritious twist on a classic. www.malawitourism.com/
RiveRside jungle Bliss Sitting alongside a jungle-fringed river, Villa Atacaya at Tanah Lot offers families and friends a serene holiday retreat in Bali. Standing over three levels with a garden courtyard as its centrepiece, and a 15-metre infinity pool at its border, the resort is built into the bank of the forested Yeh Penet River offering scenic valley views. Sharing a dedicated 400-square-metre event space, a driveway, parking area and staff service facilities with its neighbour Villa Iskandar, the retreat also includes a bar, an airconditioned TV room next to the gardens and pool, five ensuite bedrooms, a yoga deck, and a relaxation pavilion, while a team of staff including a manager, butlers, and in-house chef promise to assure guests a pleasant experience. Guests who fancy a round of golf can go to the nearby, award-winning Nirwana Bali Golf Club at Tanah Lot, whose cliff-top seventh hole is amongst the most photographed holes in the golf world. www.villaatacayabali. com
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costA RicA cHARMs Modern travellers seeking an authentic Costa Rican experience filled with immersive culture, adventure and romance, will love the new Casa Chameleon Las Catalinas villa hotel, set for a February 2017 launch. The first hotel for the up and coming coastal town of Las Catalinas on the Guanacaste coastline, the resort will offer privacy, romance, and locally sourced gourmet produce. Guests looking for old world Costa Rica with contemporary comfort can bed down in one of 21 private villas with spectacular ocean views on the Guanacaste coast and personal salt water infinity plunge pools. Adventurous souls can enjoy kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, mountain biking and hiking or take a guided canopy tour with local experts. Those seeking relaxation can opt for a yoga session with a private instructor, swim in a zero edge swimming pool perched on the top of the cliff with a poolside bar lounge, or savour fresh fish provided by local artisan fishermen, and goats cheese from a neighbouring organic farm. www.hotelcclascatalinas.com
NEWS
The only organised programme of its kind in the Dallas-Fort Worth region, the Fort Worth Ale Trail has been launched, featuring ten craft breweries, including the 2016 U.S. Open Beer Championship's No. 10 brewery, Rahr & Sons Brewing; Panther Island Brewing; and Martin House Brewing. Trail-goers are to collect a unique stamp from each brewery and complete the first half of the trail by collecting any five stamps to redeem a bottle opener, while those who collected all 10 can redeem a t-shirt. Visitors may extend their stay in Fort Worth at the Omni Fort Worth Hotel or the Hilton Garden Inn – Fossil Creek.
Along tHe Ale
www.FortWorth.com/AleTrail
duBAi indulgence Families looking for a full day’s theme park experience should visit Dubai Parks & Resorts, which has changed the landscape of leisure in the area with the opening of its new attraction - the region’s first Legoland Dubai theme park and Riverland Dubai. Legoland Dubai, the ultimate world of yearround Lego-themed adventures for families with children, features over 40 interactive rides, building experiences, and 15,000 Lego model structures made from over 60 million Lego bricks. Riverland Dubai, connecting the three theme parks and water park at Dubai Parks & Resorts, features a wide range of restaurants and retail shops, coupled with planned street theatre and entertainment, making it the perfect place for families and friends to relax and recharge. www.dubaiparksandresorts.com
Winner of Best Ski Resort Hotel in Japan, YTL Hotels' Niseko Village on the island of Hokkaido in the north-east of Japan, will gear up for a thriving winter season with the December launch of a significant ski infrastructure, including new lifts and gondolas. The 816-metre long, high-speed detachable lift Village Express and Upper Village Gondola are both unprecedented construction designs for a major ski resort in Japan. These developments will provide a world class ski destination with an authentic Japanese flavour, giving guests access to the best facilities and multi-lingual staff with service experience at global industry standard. Guests can also go on a new 1.2-kilometre ski run, from The Green Leaf Niseko Village and Kasara Niseko Village Townhouse down the fall line of the mountain, and expect to see a series of new restaurants, retail outlets, and on and off piste experiences, together with a wide array of room options, which will offer a luxurious and integrated alpine village experience. www.niseko-village.com
exceptionAl skis
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UNUSUAL BEACHES
LIFE’S AN
UNUSUAL BEACH
Skips the crowds and take on a destination from a whole new angle with these unusual slices of heaven.
Popeye Village, Malta: Just over three hours' flying time from the UK, Malta has been a holiday hotpot for the Brits for decades. If you're travelling with children, or the young-at-heart, why not go and check out Sweethaven Village, aka Popeye Village, which was used as the set for the 1980 movie Popeye, starring the late Robin Williams. The colourful wooden buildings stand on stilts above a sandy cove, with a myriad of water sport options. 12
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UNUSUAL BEACHES
Chicago, USA: Known as the Windy City, and with a reputation for long, bitterly cold winters, Chicago isn't at the forefront of most people's mind when they're thinking of beaches. However, this vibrant city has an impressive beach scene in the summer with a 26 mile stretch of sand. Montrose Beach and Oakwood Beach are considered to be among the best spots on this stretch. Oakwood Beach, on the South Side, is one of Chicago's newest beaches and features many outdoor festivals and concerts.
Puerto de Mogan, Gran Canaria: The Canaries are a staple of British holidaymakers' holiday plans, particularly when it comes to winter sun destinations. However there are still some relatively unknown gems to be discovered, including Puerto de Mogan in Gran Canaria. This picturesque resort and fishing village on the southwest coast has been dubbed “Little Venice� thanks to the canals and bridges of its seawater inlet. It has been said that this relatively unknown stretch of sand, also has the best weather on Gran Canaria, owing to a combination of southern heat and western clear skies.
Reunion Island, Indian Ocean: Reunion is situated in the Indian Ocean between Madagascar and Mauritius, and is a 13-hour flight from the UK, via Paris or Mauritius, usually. Just under half of this island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, created to protect the island's rugged volcanic interior. In the town of Piton Sainte-Rose, a beach was created when the Piton de al Fouranise, the world's second most active volcano, erupted in 1977. The sand is black and green in colour; the green comes from ground-up precious gems, called olivine, in the rock. Ha Long Bay, Vietnam: For adventurous, active sorts, this is definitely somewhere to put on your list! However, alongside the more high-octane water sports such as kayaking or diving, there are more genteel things to do, like a leisurely cruise or helicopter ride over its limestone formations and floating villages. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994 and is northern Vietnam's top tourism destination. However thanks to the fact there are thousands of mini islands and coves to explore, it's ideal for exploring undiscovered and deserted coves.
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BOUTIQUE & BEAUTIFUL
Siem Reap IN STYLE By: Gayatri Bhaumik
ANANTARA ANGkOR RESORT A quiet hotel 10 minutes from the hustle and bustle of the city centre, the Anantara Angkor Resort is a cosy retreat inspired by Cambodian heritage – think plenty of wood and colonial-era touches. The heart of the hotel is a central courtyard dominated by a saltwater pool; clustered around it are three interconnected buildings which house the property’s 33 guest rooms and six suites. The classic, bright Deluxe rooms are dressed in smart white and cream tones and decked out with rich wood floors and furniture, and locally-inspired touches like handcrafted lamps and woven headboards. Each room also comes with outdoor rain showers, private balconies, Anantara Spa amenities, and creature comforts like luxury linens, chaise longues, 37” flatscreens, and WiFi. Cambodian traditions can also be seen throughout the rest of the property in features like locally-inspired rituals at the Anantara Spa, Khmer cuisine at The Sothea restaurant, and fresh coconuts from the poolside stand. Make sure to explore the local culture with Anantara’s exclusive offerings, which include Khmer cooking classes, picnics at Angkor Thom, temple tours by bikes, and market tours with an Anantara ‘Streetwise Guru’. www. nantara.com
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SHINTA MANI An upscale two-for-one boutique offering created by American designer and architect Bill Bensley, Shinta Mani is actually two design-savvy properties set in the heart of Siem Reap’s French Quarter. Both properties are sophisticated boltholes marrying clean, modern aesthetics with local Khmer accents, but Shinta Mani Club is a private-club like oasis of just 39 rooms, while Shinta Mani resort is – as the name suggests – a resortstyle property with 62 suites centered around a tropical garden and swimming pool; all rooms feature DVD/TV setups, iPod docking, local artwork and espresso machines. Book a Poolside Garden Room at the Resort to enjoy direct access to the pool along with vintage-feel furniture, dark wood accents, mirrored feature walls, Bluetooth technology, and artwork created by Bangkok’s Bensley Design Studios set against a brooding colour palette of black and deep grey enlivened with bright bursts of orange. Guests have access to four F&B options across both the Club and Resort, but the unrivalled highlight is Kroya, where you can enjoy Khmer tasting menus while ensconced on swing seats, and finish with a selection from the restaurant’s dedicated tea room. Rounding out this unique property’s offerings are a stylish spa, and activities including temple adventures, Vespa tours, and visits to Phare: The Cambodian Circus. www.shintamani.com
BOUTIQUE & BEAUTIFUL
HERITAGE SUITES HOTEL Tucked down a small street just 15 minutes from Angkor Wat, Heritage Suites Hotel is a chic, colonial-inspired throwback to French influence in Cambodia. Boasting just 26 recently renovated rooms and suites, this chic, intimate property blends modern Cambodian design with bursts of Art Deco touches – and a fleet of wellmaintained vintage Mercedes-Benz cars to ferry guests around. The expansive yet minimalist rooms are decked out in soothing whites, creams, blues and greens, plush furnishings, complimentary WiFi, flatscreen TVs (in most rooms), docorative lamps, gold-toned headboards, and curated coffee table books. Check into one of the Bungalow Suites for ensured privacy that comes with a separate sitting area and private garden, an open-concept bedroom-shower- bathtub combo, a walk-in wardrobe and dressing room. You’ll also find an espresso machine, premium teas, and your own steam room – but no TVs. Spend your free time here lounging by the outdoor pool, being pampered at the lavish Heritage Spa by Bodia, or perfecting your conversation over western-influenced Khmer cuisine at the elegant Heritage Restaurant. Don’t miss the well-attended jazz nights (on Tuesdays) or Khmer barbecue and dance performance (on Thursdays). www.heritagesuiteshotel.com
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SWISS TRAINS
From the mountains to the Lake With its dramatic landscapes and World-class rail infrastructure, sWitzerland is a must for train buffers and nature-lovers alike. 16
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SWISS TRAINS
J
ust as my eyes become accustomed to the absolute darkness of the tunnel, the latest in a string of cavernous jaunts during our two hour train journey from Zurich, we emerge for the last time and are welcomed by spectacular views across Lake Geneva, towering Mont Blanc kissed with early summer sun in the distance. Below the ancient, terrifically-steep vineyards of Lavaux roll down to the mirrorlike waters, and the towers of the medieval cathedral of Lausanne come into view. Locals chuff when tourists marvel at this route between German and French speaking cantons – for them it’s the rail equivalent of a puddle jumper, but that’s because Switzerland has such a rich rail history – they’re just a little spoilt. The route between Zurich and Lausanne I’m on was first opened in 1861 and on June 1st that history welcomed its latest chapter as Switzerland opened the Gotthard Base Tunnel, the world’s longest at 57km. World-class rail infrastructure, combined with mesmerising alpine landscapes, means the land of cuckoo clocks and chocolate is also home to some of the most truly spectacular rail journeys on the planet. Here are our picks of the best.
One of the nation’s most iconic rail journeys is the Glacier Express, a route regularly listed among the best in the world thanks to the spectacular vistas between the Bernina massif and the Matterhorn. Linking the resort of St Moritz in Graubünden with Zermatt in the canton of Valais (with an extension to Davos), this fantastic route is serviced with a state-of-the-art train, complete with airline-style seating and panoramic windows. While it’s called an ‘express’ this is leisure travel at its best (the train’s nickname is the ‘slowest express in the world’), as you traverse lush valleys, follow rushing mountain streams, duck through no less than 91 tunnels (including a few spirals), and leap across 291 bridges, including the vertiginous Landwasser Viaduct, located at the heart of the Unesco-listed Albula district. The highest point of the 7.5-hour journey is the Oberalp Pass at 2,044 metres and reaching that lofty point means inclines so steep that drinks are served in special tilted glasses so as to avoid spills.
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SWISS TRAINS
Another crowd pleaser for lovers of mountain passes and Heidi-esque landscapes is the Bernina Express, which climbs the peaks between St Moritz and Tirano (with a bus extension to Lugano). Built between 1906 and 1910, this unique Unesco-listed rail route passes through different climate zones and cantons where three different languages are spoken. Over four hours you’ll enjoy the best of Switzerland’s mountainous heart, from rushing alpine rivers and sheer rock faces to lush forests and man-made marvels like the majestic Brusio circle viaduct over the Poschiavo Valley. On one of the steepest adhesion railways in the world, travellers will pass through 55 tunnels and across 196 bridges as they climb to the Bernina Hospiz at 2,253 metres. Operated with modern carriages, this is a truly memorable day trip but true train buffs might like to book ahead for the historic Bernina Pullman train, pulled by the endearing ‘Crocodile’ locomotive. 18
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SWISS TRAINS For something a little different, the William Tell Express experience combines both boat and rail. Linking Lucerne with Locarno as it crosses the Swiss Alps, the line takes its name from the Swiss folk hero (an archer with a unique approach to childhood nutrition). If you’re travelling from Lucerne, you’ll travel the length of its namesake lake, a stunning patch of water wreathed on both sides by towering peaks, on a beautifully-preserved paddle steamer, which will stop at quaint waterside villages before arriving at Flüelen after just three hours. From there it’s on to a panoramic SBB train which takes the acclaimed Gotthard line, with its many spirals and tunnels, up the Reuss Valley and through the famed Gotthard Tunnel, emerging in the canton of Ticino.
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SWISS TRAINS If heights aren’t your thing, travel on the ultra-modern GoldenPass Panoramic Express through the iconic Swiss landscapes of Interkalen and Zweisimmen between Lucerne and Montreux. In addition to some of the best alpine and lake landscapes in Europe, this is especially good for travellers bound for Geneva or Zurich’s international airports. In addition to the cities of Bern and Lausanne, both great for day excursions, the GoldenPass Panoramic Express meanders through the Brünig Pass, around the Giessbach waterfalls, and amongst the ancient villages of Interlaken. While you’ll need to change trains along the way, this is a route that has a little something for everyone and shouldn’t be rushed. For a real perk book one of the coveted seats in GoldenPass Super Panoramic Express, a glass bubble above the driver’s compartment.
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SWISS TRAINS
Last but not least, the Voralpen-Express connects Lucerne and St. Gallen, famed for its Unescolisted abbey precinct. The route skirts Lake Zurich, cruises among the soaring peaks of the Schwyzer Mythen, makes its way through the deep valleys of the Pilatus Mountains, and across the high Rothenthurm moor, before chugging across the Sitter Viaduct, the highest in Switzerland. Travellers pass through the ‘rose town’ of Rapperswil, steam around the lakes of Zug and Lauerz and over the dam which separates the Obersee from Lake Zurich. The beauty of this route, which takes three hours, is the hourly train schedule, meaning travellers can get on and off as they please, making this one of the most flexible routes in the country. WWW.EXPLORER-MAGAZINE.COM
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GALAPAGOS
The Land
BEFORE TIME
DESPITE bOASTING SOME OF THE PLANET’S YOUNGEST ISLANDS, THERE IS AN ANCIENTNESS AbOUT THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS, A REMOTE AND FRAGILE CHAIN THAT’S HOME TO SOME OF THE wORLD’S STRANGEST YET MOST ENDEARING INHAbITANTS. wORDS & PHOTOS bY NICk
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wALTON.
GALAPAGOS
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GALAPAGOS
I
learned a long time ago it’s important to connect with the locals when arriving in a new destination, but I’ve not faced this kind of welcome before; there are lizards ancient, grimacing lizards - literally everywhere I look, and I’m struggling to put my foot down without making one of those locals extremely grumpy. In a scene reminiscent of low-budget 50s sci-fis, ash-hued iguanas, some the size of housecats, with Godzilla-like profiles and long, slender claws, are stacked three deep on the jagged lava coastline, making climbing from our zodiac a very delicate manoeuvre. I finally take the leap, landing in their ranks, not to be devoured by tiny mouths but to be completely ignored. This is the beauty of the Galapagos Islands, barren volcanic peaks that jut from the ocean 1,000 kilometres off the Ecuadorean coast; everywhere you turn, nature abounds.
It’s our second day exploring this blissfully remote frontier with Lindblad-National Geographic, a unique collaboration between the world’s oldest expedition company and the acclaimed natural sciences magazine. Our PhD-wielding naturalist Carlos Romero, part of a team of guides aboard the stout expedition ship National Geographic Endeavour, greets our little band of camera toting travellers and leads our hike along the coast of Fernandina, the youngest (in geological terms just a baby) of the archipelago’s 18 odd islands. In many ways Fernandina sums up the Galapagos Islands to a tee. At its centre is a towering shield volcano crowned by a cantankerous caldera that’s been in a foul mood since it last began erupting in April 2009. Yet, despite its barren and bleak flanks, the island’s coastline is thriving with life, from somnolent iguanas, who 24
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take turns to crawl into the sea in search of their favourite snack, red algae, before rushing back to the lava to warm up; to a myriad of birdlife, some residents, some just passing through. Flightless cormorants, far happier diving deep into the sea than soaring above it, watch us from a rocky outcrop with vivid blue eyes, the salt water beading off their waterproof feathers. Two seal lion pups play fight in a rock pool before braving a tentative sniff at our hiking boots. In a lagoon wreathed by ancient rock that’s layered like cream cake a green turtle bobs in the tide searching for lunch. If towering volcanic peaks, birds that swim like fish, and moody (but at the same timer quite adorable) lizards are the ancient face of Galapagos, then Lindblad-National Geographic is its modern persona. The company has been operating in the islands for half a century (they pioneered travel here in 1967), long before any other operators saw the potential of this remote locale. With two ships permanently based in the islands, and a crew of experienced guides, many of whom were born in the Galapagos, the cruise line is also the largest single contributor to the efforts of the Charles Darwin Research Station at Santa Cruz, a bastion of conservation policy that has focused its effort on education and preservation since opening in 1959. We had met the National Geographic Endeavour, a North Sea trawler turned hardy, 96-passenger adventure cruiser, the day before, after arriving from the Ecuadorian city of Guayaquil. Our cabin is spacious, clean and comfortable, with plenty of room to stow luggage, a wellappointed bathroom and two single bunks. The ship also boasts a small boutique, a spacious lounge where guests meet for daily lectures and evening cocktail debriefs, and an intimate dining room
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where chefs present South American-influenced comfort food. Timeless, rather unforgiving landscapes that have changed little since Darwin arrived, the islands of the Galapagos are exactly as nature intended, in balance, ebbing and flowing with the movement of the sea currents which first delivered life to their ancient shores. But this isn’t by chance. Conservation is at the core of the Galapagos experience. A total of 97 percent of the island chain is protected, and inhabitation in the remaining space is carefully controlled by the Ecuadorean government. Tourist numbers have tripled in 20 years, making biosecurity and conservation efforts even more important; Lindblad-National Geographic, like other Galapagos operators, must follow a strict expedition timeline that’s designed to minimise the impact of tourism on wildlife while ensuring every guest gets a chance to enjoy this remote Eden without a flotilla of crowded vessels anchored nearby. Education is a big part of those conservation efforts and is at the heart of the Lindblad-National Geographic experience. Each day we’re briefed on where the ship will sail, what we might see and how to best prepare for it. At some islands, like sea horse-shaped Isabela, formed by the merger of no less than six shield volcanos, we ride the ship’s military-grade zodiacs in for a wet landing, stepping into the shallows on a deserted beachhead. On others, like North Seymore, home to the world’s largest populations of frigates and blue footed boobies, we enjoy a dry landing but usually finish off our explorations with a welcomed dip in the warm equatorial waters.
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GALAPAGOS
There is always something new to discover and thanks to our guides, plenty to learn. On North Seymore Island we trace the rugged coastline in search of male frigates puffing out their red gular pouches and stretching out their ink-black wings in elaborate mating rituals. Further inland we discover vibrantly-hued land iguanas in every shade of yellow, orange and red imaginable, and watch blue-footed boobies, fresh from deep seat fishing, feeding new hatchlings. Snorkelling near Isabela Island with naturalist native Paul Vergara, we’re joined by an inquisitive sea lion, his eyes rarely leaving us as he dives, swoops and tumbles through the depths, a silver string of bubbles trailing towards the surface. He is quickly dubbed the ‘little showoff’ although he’s bigger than most guests. Beyond, solitary white tipped sharks and a pair of spotted eagle rays glide by unhindered by our clumsy splashing above. During regular photographic expeditions with National Geographic-certified photographer
Christian Saa, we brush up on our use of light and ISO to get the perfect picture of vibrant pink flamingos, flightless cormorants, proud Galapagos hawks and even the islands’ own tiny penguin species. There’s also plenty on offer aboard the ship. One afternoon, as the National Geographic Endeavour steams south, Galapagos’ first Fulbright scholar Jonathan Aguas leads us through the history of his island home, from the arrival of the first explorers and the observations of Darwin, through to the land scuffles between eccentric German utopianists and a larger-than-life Baroness and her two flunkies. As we cross the equator for the 6th time guests gather on the bow for a cheese and wine-laced sunset soiree. We finish our exploration of Galapagos in the lush highlands of Santa Cruz, one of the few inhabited islands in the chain. There’s time to visit a primary school that Lindblad-National Geographic supports, its classrooms wreathed by brightly-coloured handpainted giant tortoises, before we climb the island’s peaks in search of the real thing. We come across these huge, ancient animals in a swampy paddock, one of their favourite spots during their seasonal migration. The iconic giant tortoises, certainly one of the Galapagos’ biggest drawcards, have a lot in common with their remote island home. On the outside they seem hardy and built to last forever, but the reality is that, like the vibrant ecosystems we’ve
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explored over the week, they’re surprisingly fragile and will only survive our ever-changing world with a sustainable balance of awareness and conservation. Fortunately, companies like Lindblad-National Geographic are paving the way for responsible tourism that will ensure these remarkable islands and their otherworldly inhabitants, will be safeguarded for generations to enjoy.
GALAPAGOS
Travel Getting There: American Airlines (www.aa.com) has an extensive global network that connects Guayaquil, Equador, to the world via Miami. Cruise: Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic operates week long expeditions aboard National Geographic Endeavour and National Geographic Islander year-round. From US$6,590 per person, twin share. www.expeditions.com
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ROAD TRIPS
Hit tHe
Road Jack
Get your rV ready and head out on the open road with one of theSe excitinG road tripS, the perfect way to experience an unforGettable journey under your own Steam.
W
ith a length of 573km the stretch of Highway 1 between Nelson to Christchurch is one that captures the renowned beauty of New Zealand’s South Island. Along this dramatic coastal route you can explore the spectacular orchards and vineyards of Richmond, try whitewater kayaking on the Buller River, take a colonial heritage walk at Reefton, or search for mating humpbacks off the coast of Kaikoura. Soak off the troubles of the world in Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa as you approach the garden city of Christchurch. Skip the 1.5-hour flight and instead immerse yourself in Australia’s beauty over a week on the route between Brisbane and Sydney. This iconic Australian journey, famed for its diversity, grants travellers the chance to bushwalk in the Bouddi National Park, surf at Stockton Beach, explore the gentrified industrial districts of Newcastle, and sample a variety of Shiraz at Hunter Valley. Perfect for beach lovers, the route also encompasses Port Stephens, Byron Bay and the Gold Coast, all famed for their white powder beaches and adrenaline-pumping water activities. Stop for tea and scones, the traditional staple, in the Blue Mountains. Stretching along the California coast from Carmel to Morro Bay, the Pacific Coast Highway is a popular option for sun-kissed American road trips. Kicking off in historic
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Monterey, the route passes the quaint village of Carmel and Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, before reaching Big Sur, which extends 145km south to San Simeon. Along the way, you’ll enjoy stunning views of the Pacific Ocean, redwood groves, quaint hamlets and sensational, deserted beaches before you hit the big smoke. When it comes to an RV adventure in South Africa, the Garden Route, which stretches from Mossel Bay to Storms River, surely tops our list. Dotted with turquoise lagoons, fertile farms, world class golf courses, wineries, friendly villages, and wildlife reserves, this captivating route passes through the city of George, the historic town of Knysna, and picturesque resort town Plettenberg Bay, the perfect destination for wildlife safaris above and below the waves. You
ROAD TRIPS
can also test your bravery at Nature's Valley, home to the world’s highest natural bungee jump. A 298km scenic roadway around Cape Breton Island, arguably the most stunning part of Nova Scotia in Canada, the Cabot Trail will take you through mysterious highlands, luscious forests, and small towns brimming with Gaelic and Acadian cultures. Begining in Baddeck, on the northern shore of Bras d'Or Lake, the highlight of this breathtaking route is Cape Breton Highlands National Park, where you can encounter bald eagles, moose and black bears in their natural, pristine environment. WWW.EXPLORER-MAGAZINE.COM
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HOTEL REVIEW
DRAMA QUEEN So thiS iS a boutique property? A member of the prestigious Design Hotels portfolio, Porto’s Hotel Teatro is one of the city’s leading boutique urban hideaways. Dressed by celebrated designer Nini Andrade Silva in shades of bronze and gold, with dark corridors that instill a theatrical sense of intrigue and mystery, and a popular restaurant wrapped around a central courtyard, Hotel Teatro introduces a sense of contemporary decadence, luxury and intimacy.
Where doeS the name come from? Built on the site of the revered Teatro Baquet, a vibrant performing arts and music space that was destroyed by fire in 1888, Hotel Teatro was created 122 years later to offer sophisticated travellers a touch of the great theatre culture of the city. In addition to the name, stage lighting and other theatrical props are discretely placed throughout the elegant property, ensuring the show goes on.
tell uS about the roomS. While Hotel Teatro’s guest rooms and suites are a tad on the small side, they make up for it with plenty of chic character, including glass-encased bathrooms, LCD televisions, and leather-bound work desks. Silva’s bold designs might not be for everyone (there’s little in the way of privacy in those glass loos), but the use of stage curtains, luxury fittings, and discrete lighting sets a stage that’s both sexy and intimate. My Tribune room, one of five room categories available, boasted a splendid, deep-set terrace overlooking the city, perfect for a glass of port at sundown to the bells of nearby St Anthony’s.
hoW’S the dining? Like the rest of the hotel, its signature restaurant Palco, is dark, dramatic and theatrical, with a beautiful curved wood ceiling, stage lighting, raw log tables, and dark furnishings in timber and felt. Located just beyond the intimate hotel reception on the ground floor, this hotel eatery is as popular with chic locals as it is guests, with chef Arnaldo Azevedo seducing palates with his refreshingly bold yet authentic Portuguese cuisine. Simplistic breakfasts include artisanal cheeses, freshly baked Portuguese pastries, and even chilled cava. Across the sun-kissed courtyard is Plateia, an elegant cocktail bar that mimics the theatre bars of old, complete with an extensive port list and piped in Fado music. Room service is also available between 7am and midnight, in case you want to make use of that terrace. Rua Sá da Bandeira, 84, Porto, Portugal; Tel: +351 220 409 620; www.hotelteatro.pt
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LOCATED AT THE HEART OF THE PORTO’S UNESCO-LISTED CITY CENTRE, HOTEL TEATRO COMbINES AUTHENTIC PORTUGUESE HOSPITALITY wITH AN INNOVATIVE AND PLAYFUL DESIGN PERSONA.
AIRLINES
Jet Airways’ new flights between Hong Kong and Amsterdam via Mumbai offer Europe-bound travellers even more comfort and flexibility, discovers Nick Walton on a recent flight between Asia and India’s commercial capital en route to the Netherlands. Pre-Flight I checked in my luggage at Hong Kong International Airport’s Terminal 2, which offers an easier security process and a quick transfer to the Plaza Premium lounge near gate 40, access to which is offered to the airline’s Premiere business class and First Class passengers. Departure was from the new Midfield Concourse onto a Boeing 777-300ER with 8 seats in First Class, 30 in Premiere, and 308 in Economy.
the Flight Jet Airways’ crew, dressed in their sophisticated dark blue and vibrant yellow uniforms, welcomed us onboard with hot towels and glasses of fruit juice. The modern, elegantly-appointed herringbone business cabin layout was in a 1-2-1 configuration, with seats in soothing cream and burgundy. These are among my favourite seats in the air; there’s plenty of space, and amenities galore. Each seat converts into a 185cm flat bed at the push of a button, and includes 90cm of space at shoulder level (when lying down) and 84cm at the hips. My window seat 9A was just behind the galley but maintained a sense of privacy and included electronic lumbar support, an ample service tray, independent air controls, little pockets to store phones and adapters, in-seat power, and a 15.4-inch personal monitor, which gives travellers access to the airline’s comprehensive Panasonic eX2 on-demand entertainment system.
dining Having taken drink and dinner orders before takeoff, crew were quick to commence the meal service, serving glasses of Billecart-Salmon
Champagne and piping hot towels with smiles and an air of refinement. The airline offers a flexible Dine Anytime menu, ideally suited for night flights. This featured a green pea and mint soup, followed by the choice of Southern Indian Jhinga curry with prawns, tamarind and coconut; spicy honey glazed roast chicken with snap peas and egg noodles; Kadhai Paneer with capsicum, tomatoes and crushed coriander; and Mushroom Wellington with sautéed vegetables and a creamy carrot sauce. I matched the chicken, which was perfectly cooked and seasoned, with a glass of Cecelia Beretta Lugana from Italy. I skipped dessert – a choice of rasmalai cheese dumplings in condensed milk, or orange banana cake – deciding instead to make the most of the darkened cabin by watching one of the many recent release movies on offer, before grabbing some sleep, with thoughtful crew making up my bed while I changed. An hour later I woke as we prepared to descend into rainy Mumbai; we arrived on time despite the foul weather, and within 20 minutes I had been guided through transit security and was in the airline’s chic new GVK Lounge, where I showered and prepared for my continuing journey to Amsterdam.
summary JetAirways’ already legendary service remains a fundamental component to the airline’s success on its direct services from Hong Kong to Mumbai and Delhi, with the carrier now offering convenient links between Asia and its new hub, Amsterdam. Hong Kong-Mumbai return in Premiere from HK$14,680 (US$1,893) per person; www.jetairways.com WWW.EXPLORER-MAGAZINE.COM
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AIRLINES
Taking Things To The nexT LeveL SriLankan airLineS takeS Luxury to new LeveLS with itS enhanced a330-300 buSineSS cLaSS between coLombo and hong kong, findS nick waLton. wide seat features a USB port, 110v AC power, entertainment controller and seat controller easily accessible on a shoulder-height panel. My window seat had plenty of privacy, an ample cocktail shelf, and a large 15.4-inch touch-screen personal monitor which hinges into the seatback in front and offers access to a very adequate collection of Englishlanguage films and television programmes as well as plenty of Sri Lankan content. SriLankan also offers in-air connectivity, priced between US$5 and US$15 for 6-20MB.
DINING For the first of our two meals on this two sector flight to Hong Kong, we were presented with seasonal fresh fruit, with homemade yoghurt. A crossiant, matched with a cheeky glass of champagne and a cup of black spiced chai tea from the airline’s extensive menu, was followed by a choice of a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast of milk rice and dry chicken curry; poached eggs on an English muffin with lamb sausage; or a cheese and spinach omelet. The omelet was cooked perfectly and was served with chicken sausage and stuffed tomatoes. After the quick three hour hop to Bangkok we were served lunch; ratatouille timbale in grilled zucchini followed by a choice of chicken and cashew stir-fry; peppered red snapper with shitake mushrooms and steamed rice; beef stroganoff; or mushroom stir-fried noodles in oyster sauce. The chicken with cashew, egg fried rice and Asian vegetables was a true winner, as was its plating, a far cry from the economy-on-a-tray plating found in many business class cabins today. I matched lunch with a gin and tonic made with local Sri Lankan craft gin. Soon after we began our on-time descent into Hong Kong.
CHECK-IN/LOUNGE I arrived at the airport two hours early for my 7am departure for Hong Kong, having already checked-in online. SriLankan staff member Thilini was handling several difficult passengers, who were demanding upgrades, with professionalism and much more patience than I would have. After dropping off my bags I made for the Serendib Lounge, located one level up from security. This is a great space, with a self-service bar and great dining selection, even so early in the morning, as well as showers and a sleeping room.
ONBOARD We boarded at gate 7, with business class passengers enjoying reserved gate seating. Despite an on-time boarding call many passengers arrived very late, delaying the flight. Crew served glasses of fruit juice and hot towels, taking orders for brunch as they waited for stragglers. SriLankan’s newest aircraft, the A330-300 features a modern reverse herringbone business class product in a 1-2-1 configuration with 28 lie-flat beds across seven rows. The cabin is clean and fresh, with exotic flares of teal calmed by dominant cream; it has that lovely new car feel. Each 21-inch 32
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SERVICE Despite the flight being broken into short sectors, both crew were worldclass. Cabin attendants were welcoming, efficient, charming, attentive and always ready to chat about your impressions of Sri Lanka and offer recommendations for your return visit. They are, in many ways, the backbone of the SriLankan experience and one of the reasons the airline continues to impress.
SUMMARY I’ve always liked SriLankan Airlines; the tiny unassuming carrier puts people first with a business class offering that might be light on gimmicks but is heavy on personalised service. The new business class product puts the airline on par with any other in the region. Hong Kong-Colombo return in business class from HK$6,969 (US$897) per person, including taxes. www.srilankan.com Note: The author travelled on a fully-paid business class ticket with the airline’s knowledge