Jetsetter Spring 2016

EXOTIC PLACES

INTERESTING PEOPLE

INTELLIGENT TRAVEL

2016 ULTIMATE BUCKET LIST EDEN OF THE PACIFIC BURMESE DREAMING

GATHELLAND A PA G O S BEFORE TIME LANGKAWI’S THE DATAI

INDIAN POLO

BOUTIQUE KYOTO

6

EDITOR'S NOTE

W

elcome to another issue of JETSETTER, Asia’s leading

experiential

PUBLISHER Denis Fahy denis@channel1hk.com

travel magazine. The

first issue of the year is always my favourite; it’s a chance to renew our

MANAGING EDITOR Nick Walton nickwalton@artemiscomms.com

enthusiasm for travel, to brainstorm our annual bucket list, to cherry pick the places we’d love to visit, and to kick

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Crystal Leung crystal@artemiscomms.com

off another year of discovery. In this first issue for 2016 we’re sure you’ll find no shortage of inspiration for your own world wandering, from the polo fields of northern India, to the remote WWII wrecks and welcoming village communities of the Solomon Islands. We countdown our top travel experiences for the year ahead in our annual bucket list collection, before jetting to the remote Galapagos Islands with Lindblad-National Geographic. There’s touches of luxury on the new Strand Cruise in Myanmar, a dose of serenity at Kyoto’s best boutique hotels, and glorious beachfront living at Langkawi’s The Datai resort. In our regular lifestyle section you can sip pisco cocktails, meet Hong Kong’s newest culinary sensation, travel the globe inspired by the humble coconut and shift gears in Maserati’s new SUV. Where ever you’re headed this year, and however you’re travelling, we hope JETSETTER continues to be your guide to the best experiential travel the world has to offer.

CHIEF SUB EDITOR Philippa Walton pipwalton@gmail.com ART DIRECTOR Don Pierre Riosa don@channel1hk.com TRAVEL INDUSTRY RELATIONSHIP DIRECTOR Tammy Fong tammy@channel1hk.com BEIJING SALES MANAGER Louis Chu louis@channel1hk.com SALES MANAGER Fatima Cameira fatima@channel1hk.com

Safe Travels.

Nick Walton

Managing Editor

CHIEF REPRESENTATIVE EUROPE Laurence James laurence.james@jetsetter.hk

JETSETTER is registered as a newspaper & periodical.

CONTRIBUTORS

JETSETTER is published by Channel One Communications JETSETTER is printed by Channel One Communications Suite 402-3, Hong Kong Trade Centre 161-167 Des Voeux Rd Central Hong Kong 616 Corporate Way, Suite 2-5706 Valley Cottage, NY 10989 USA www.jetsetter.hk

Joe Mortimer is a UK-based travel writer who specialises in luxury and lifestyle. He has visited 60 countries, stayed in more than 100 high-end hotels, and eaten at some of the best restaurants in the world. For this issue, he delves into the aromatic, high-proof world of South America’s finest libation: pisco.

www.jetsetter.hk

As a Portuguese-New Zealander, traveling has forever meant going from home to where the heart is for Maria Bayley. A lover of writing, music and airports, she is always searching for the next city to get lost in. In this issue she stays closer to home and explores a day in the life of Utrecht.

Dan Walton is a Sydneybased creative and photographer with a passion for travelling far from the beaten path. He has explored India by motorbike, eastern Africa by 4x4 and Antarctica by expedition ship. In this issue he explores above and below the waves of the Solomon Islands.

All rights Reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively for Channel One Communications, their partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the publisher. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source.

Channel One does not make any guarantees to the accuracy of the information contained.

CONTENTS SPRING 2016

16

Room with a View Nothing to Wine About

34

24 Hours Down to the Waterline

38

POLO In the Land of Kings

44

Boutique & Beautiful Kyoto’s Houses of Serenity

46

The Bucket List Ultimate Encounters for 2016

54

Road Warrior Joy Villa

PHOTO: Nick Walton

CONTENTS SPRING 2016

56

Galapagos The Land Before Time

64

Solomon Islands Eden of the Pacific

72

Myanmar Burmese Dreaming

78

Villa Living Queen of the Coast

86

Food Adventures Coco Loco

PHOTO: Michael S. Nolan

12

DIARY

Festival de Cannes

Cannes, France May 11 - 22, 2016

One of the most important events in the film industry, Festival de Cannes is the event to see and be seen at. Celebrities, dressed to the nines, grab media attention as they walk down the red carpet, while the general public flank both sides for a glimpse of their favourite idols. Though the tickets to the opening ceremony are highly-restricted, travellers still have chances to watch the awards live in cinemas, while the Cinéma de la Plage (outdoor cinema) will also entertain visitors with a different film each night. www.festival-cannes.com

Where to Stay: Located in the heart of La Croisette, The InterContinental Carlton Cannes is a beautiful oasis that fuses Old World charm with modern expectations. Overlooking the Bay of Cannes, the hotel's private beach is the perfect spot from which to enjoy the Mediterranean sun. www.intercontinental-carlton-cannes.com

Beltane Fire Festival

Edinburgh, Scotland April 30, 2016

Celebrating the return of summer, the Beltane Fire Festival is a modern reinterpretation of an Iron Age Celtic ritual, performed as a pageant on the city’s Calton Hill. Driven by the beat of drums, two mythical characters, the May Queen and the Green Man, lead a procession that then lights a huge bonfire, sparking the birth of summer. The performance then moves to the Bower, where they dance the night away with plenty of food, drinks and music. www.beltane.org

Where to Stay: Once the offices of the Scotsman Newspaper, The Scotsman Hotel is a stylish, elegant boutique hideaway. Make sure you reserve a table at the award-winning North Bridge Brasserie, where you can enjoy seasonal Scottish cuisine with a modern twist. www.thescotsmanhotel.com

BottleRock Napa Valley

Napa Valley, United States May 27 – 29, 2016

Kick off summer in style at BottleRock, a three-day celebration of great music, delectable food, and indulgent wines and beers. Over 70 rock bands will dominate four music stages, with headliners including The Red Hot Chili Peppers, Stevie Wonder, and Florence and The Machine. The finest chefs and sommeliers in the area will sate your appetite with Napa’s best cuisine, premier wines and craft beers. Don’t forget to check out the Culinary Stage for interesting mash-ups of music and gastronomic skills. www.bottlerocknapavalley.com

Where to Stay: Showcasing Napa Valley’s premium drops, the Meadowood Napa Valley offers luxurious accommodation as well as a three Michelin-starred restaurant and a new Meadowood Spa. www.meadowood.com

www.jetsetter.hk

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DIARY

Snowbombing Mayrhofen, Austria April 4 – 9, 2016

A week-long festival filled with fresh air, black runs and white-hot parties, Snowbombing features a whirlwind of world-class DJs and music bands spinning tunes and beats in the idyllic alpine setting of Mayrhofen. By day, try your hand at skiing and snowboarding, or enjoy relaxing music on the mountain top stages and by night, soak in cutting edge performances by international big names, including British electronic music group The Prodigy, English DJ Andy C, and Belgian drum and bass producer Netsky. www.snowbombing.com

Where to Stay: A mix of historic charm and modern creature comforts, Alpenhotel Kramerwirt is the perfect base camp for ski holidays. Its warm and cosy rooms ensure a pleasant stay while the hotel restaurant offers local specialties based on traditional recipes. www.kramerwirt.at

Sydney Writers' Festival

Sydney, Australia May 16 – 22, 2016

Bringing together writers from various backgrounds, the annual Sydney Writers' Festival will present over 300 events inspired by all types of literature, at the Walsh Bay Wharves Precinct, the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Town Hall. Acclaimed Australian writer Tom Keneally will bring history to life and share how the impacts of World War One have shaped modern Australia; while artistic director of the Bell Shakespeare national theatre company Peter Evans will interview singer-songwriter Paul Kelly about why Shakespeare continues to inspire. www.swf.org.au

Where to Stay: Offering stunning views of the Sydney Harbour, the Park Hyatt Sydney boasts spacious, luxurious guest rooms with art and interior design that reflect the Australian landscape and a rooftop pool with views to kill for. www.sydney.park.hyatt.com

Lucidity

Santa Barbara, United States April 8 - 10, 2016

A transformational arts and music festival, Lucidity will showcase a top-notch line-up of musical talents and local legends, including DJs Mark Farina and Bluetech, and singer Mike Lovw, who will enthral participants with a three day extravaganza. Be sure to get involved in one of the seven themed villages, including the Nomad’s Nook, which offers electronic music as well as educational workshops; the Healers’ Sanctuary, which provides massages and sound healing; and the Lovers Nest, a plethora of heart-centered music perfect for couples. http://2016.lucidityfestival.com

Where to Stay: The opulent Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara epitomises sophisticated Californian style and offers guests a perfect base from which to explore local wineries and the Coral Casino Beach. www.fourseasons.com/santabarbara

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

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ROOM WITH A VIEW 17

NOTHING TO

S

WINE ABOUT

et to open in June, at the heart of South Africa’s acclaimed Franschhoek winelands, Leeu Estates brings together the

best of Old World hospitality, absolute privacy, and enthralling mountain and river views. With just 17 beautifully-appointed rooms, suites and cottages, wreathed by 68-hectares of vineyards, landscaped gardens and fynbos (indigenous vegetation), you’ll share this little corner of paradise with a handful of likeminded souls. Rooms feature carefully curated artwork and sculptures, king-sized beds with luxurious linens, and marble bathrooms. Many have their own terraces and

fireplaces, and all enjoy idyllic vineyard and mountain views. For guests travelling as a family or with friends, book one of the two or three-bedroom villas for a home-away-from-home experience like no other. Leave time for meals laced with local artisanal produce, a tasting of the award-winning Mullineux & Leeu Family wines, or an Asian-inspired treatment in the intimate spa. www.leeucollection.com

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INSPIRE

A HISTORIC RETURN

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok has unveiled its highly-anticipated Authors’ and Garden Wings after an extensive renovation that included the addition of new suites, new lounges and the rebirth of an iconic eatery. At the heart of the Authors’ Wing is the six-bedroom 600sqm Grand Royal Suite, Bangkok’s grandest presidential suite.

This opulent space, which comes complete with private elevator access, dining for a dozen, a full kitchen, and stunning river views, occupies the entire first floor of the Authors’ Wing, which was once the original Oriental Hotel, built in 1876. A host of new 80sqm Garden Suites, complete with marble bathrooms, floor-to-ceiling windows and spacious living areas, have also been added. At the base of the wing, the renowned Authors’ Lounge – a favourite destination for afternoon tea, society weddings and elegant events – has been restored to its classic late-nineteenth-century design and now reaches through to the hotel’s riverside terrace and gardens via four salons named after famous authors. In the Garden Wing, four new spa studios offer exclusive world renowned beauty treatments from the likes of Bastien Gonzalez and QMS Medicosmetics. www.mandarinoriental.com

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INSPIRE

A WHALE OF A TIME

If swimming with majestic whale sharks off the coast of Tanzania or Mexico sounds like your idea of a good time, new itineraries from Aqua-Firma will have you enthralled. Specialising in wilderness travel, Aqua-Firma now offer expeditions in search of the biggest fish on the planet. Led by marine biologist Dr Simon Pierce Galapagos, these small group journeys to East Africa, Costa Rica, and Mexico explore the areas whale sharks are known to aggregate for seasonal feeding. Along the way there are also chances to see an abundance of other marine life, including protected green and giant leatherback turtles and manta rays. The Whale Shark Research & Photography experiences in Mexico, which search for these peaceful giants in the waters of Isla Mujeres, has departures in July 2016 and is priced from GBP1,690 (US$2,360), while the Whale Shark Research & Conservation – Mafia Island itinerary in Tanzania runs from November 11–19, 2016, and is available from GBP1,890 (US$2,641) per person. www.aqua-firma.co.uk www.jetsetter.hk

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INSPIRE

Dubai’s luxurious Burj Al Arab Jumeirah hotel has always pushed the boundaries of hospitality but its newest addition, which is being delivered, by ship, from 8,000 nautical miles away, takes things to a whole new level. The North Deck is an expansive outdoor leisure concept that will, when bolted onto the side of the iconic hotel, boast a 10,000sqm private deck that fans 100m out into the Arabian Gulf. Opening later this year, the Deck will accommodate 32 cabanas and 400 sun lounges, all of which ring a bar, restaurant and two swimming pools - a fresh water one measuring 612sqm and a salt pool measuring 828sqm. A new destination for entertainment and sun worshipping, the North Deck’s remote construction

by Finnish cruise ship architects ensured minimal disruption to guests, who will soon be able to dance the night away, soak in the Gulf’s sunshine and mingle with the city’s beautiful. www.jumeirah.com

SOUTHERN STALLIONS

PHOTO: Serge Krouglikoff

Families looking for fun in the sun won’t be able to resist the new one-of-a-kind Three Bedroom Beach Pool Residence at beautiful Anantara Kihavah in the Maldives. Ideally suited for families or friends looking to enjoy an Indian Ocean escape together, this indulgent new retreat-within-a-retreat features expansive sun decks, a private Jacuzzi, access to the turquoise lagoon, its own spa sala, a private cinema complete with 55-inch LED television, and a central bar with humidor. Enjoy great in-villa dining in the sunken sala, and swim with the stars in a private plunge pool lit with fibreoptics. Each of the three guest rooms boast king-sized beds, two-person tubs, and even private wine cabinets for those late night champagne soirees. The addition of the adjacent Beach Pool Villa makes this a four bedroom retreat like no other. http://kihavah-maldives.anantara.com www.jetsetter.hk

Dubai Hot Spot

Capture the majestic beauty of France’s wild white horses on a unique four-night itinerary with Vidados.

Guests will travel with French photographer Serge Krouglikoff to visit the Camargue horse breeders of Southern France and encounter these stunning animals as they gallop through the shallow waters and muddy marshes of the Rhône delta. Living in semi-feral herds, these wild horses are one of the oldest breeds in the world and are famed for their dashes through the retreating tides. From sunset gallops to stallion fighting, this is one holiday that will see you tick a lot of items off your photography bucket list. The trip, which includes one-on-one photographic tuition, also includes accommodation and transfers from Montpellier airport. From GBP1,676 (US$2,416) per person. www.vidados.com

CROWD PLEASER

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INSPIRE

Bath Time Bliss

The world’s first luxury Thai Hammam has opened at Phuket’s Amatara Resort & Wellness retreat, combining traditional Turkish and Moroccan bathing practices with the wisdom and gentleness of authentic Thai spa healing arts. The Thai Hammam Experience, which combines the sensations of pampering, soaking, exfoliating, cleansing, contrasting temperatures, deep massage and calming rejuvenation, starts with a traditional sauna followed by a waterfall or jet blast rinse to cool down the body temperature.

Within the Hammam room, guests enjoy an intensive hair treatment together with a scalp massage before going into the Thai herbal steam room, which is guaranteed to soften skin and relax muscles. Suitably pampered guests are then poked and prodded into submission with a full body massage and exfoliation atop an internally warmed stone bed. As if that wasn’t enough to shake the worries of modern living, the massage is followed by a deeply soothing, healing and detoxifying thermal mud bath, which opens pores allowing minerals from the mud to be absorbed. Not only is the whole ritual wonderfully detoxifying and soothing for the skin, but it helps to reduce inflammation in the body, ridding travellers of their aches, pains and muscular stiffness in preparation for the rest of their holiday. From THB5,900 (US$165) per person. www.amataraphuket.com www.jetsetter.hk

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INSPIRE

Expeditionary cruise lovers rejoice! Crystal Cruises has unveiled

CRYSTAL ANNOUNCE MEGAYACHT

plans for Crystal Endeavor, the world’s first purpose-built polarclass megayacht. Fresh after announcing its expansion into small luxury yachts and river cruising (as well as their own fleet of luxury aircraft), Crystal’s 25,000-ton 183-meter long megayacht will offer cruises deep into the Arctic and Antarctic for just 200 guests when it launches in 2018. The ship will cruise the Arctic before following the route of migrating whales along the coast of the Americas and Europe to the Antarctic visiting plenty of tropical locales along the way. Guests will be able to explore the depths with the ship’s own Remote Operated Vehicle and its own sevenperson submarine; hover over coral gardens thanks to advanced positioning systems; and soar above the world’s most remote landscapes on two ship’s helicopters. Staterooms will start from 400sqft (including balcony), larger than all current expedition and luxury cruise ships, setting a new benchmark in luxury cruising far from the beaten path. www.crystalcruises.com

KARMA ON TWO WHEELS

REALM OF THE MOUNTAIN MONKEYS

Discover the beauty of Ethiopia’s dramatic Unesco-listed Simien

Mountains at the nation’s newest luxury enclave. The new 14-room Limalimo Lodge is the realisation of a dream for two native Simien mountain guides who want to share, cherish and preserve the wildlife and spectacular scenery of their homeland. Perched on top of a dramatic escarpment in northern Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains National Park and boasting spectacular views over miles of rugged lowland, Limalimo Lodge makes the perfect base from which to explore the national park, regarded as Africa’s Grand Canyon, in search of its endemic Gelada monkeys as well as hundreds of endemic and migratory bird species.

Sustainably-minded and community-built with help from the African Wildlife Foundation, a portion of the lodge’s tariffs goes to conservation initiatives within the park, while guests will also be able to contribute to the local community through guided market visits, traditional cooking classes and even beer making sessions. http://limalimolodge.com

Feel comfortable on two wheels and want to give back to the communities you visit when you travel? Adventure travelers with a conscience can now journey through Northern India with Relief Riders International on their November ride to Pushkar’s famed camel fair. Part adventure, part humanitarian project, this 1,800-kilometer journey lets intrepid travellers explore the Thar Desert on Royal Enfield motorcycle en route to the world’s largest horse and cattle fair. You’ll depart from Jaipur, passing Kumbhalgarh, Jaisalmer, and the 600 year old Harasar Fort on your way to the fair, a gathering of 200,000 people and 50,000 animals. Here you’ll have the chance to explore by horseback, watch camel races, Hindu bridal displays and even a mustache competition, while also chipping in with sanitation initiatives for a local school. Your tariff will also go to help fund free eye and dentistry programs in the village of Alniyawas, near Pushkar. www.reliefridersinternational.com www.jetsetter.hk

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INTRODUCING

MARRAKECH MUSE The city’s newest boutique hideaway, the Almaha Marrakech slipped open its bespoke doors in February. With just four guest rooms and eight super sexy suites, many of which boast private patios or terraces, Almaha is dressed in traditional Moroccan décor, complete with handmade furniture, but takes a heady draft of inspiration from French poet Charles Baudelaire, especially his famous work Invitation to the Voyage. When you’re not greeting the vistas of this ancient city from the rooftop terrace, working your way through the 1,083 tomes in The Library, sipping fresh mint tea in the Pixel Room, or cooling off in the sumptuous swimming pool, you might want to enjoy a spot of contemplation in the subterranean hammam. Because you never know when inspiration might strike. www.almahamarrakech.com

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INTRODUCING 29

THE BEACH Nestled on what has been dubbed the best beach in Thailand, The Nai Harn lifts the luxury benchmark in one of Asia’s favourite playgrounds. One of the island’s most anticipated openings, The Nai Harn is the newest incarnation of the iconic Royal Phuket Yacht Club, which went through an extensive 18-month renovation. The retreat features 130 luxurious guest rooms and suites, each with sweeping panoramic views of the Andaman Sea (we love the Press for Champagne buttons in each suite).

Dressed with Southern Thai art and freeform sculptural furniture, guest rooms are designed with high ceilings and glass facades that open up the bedroom, living spaces and bathroom to the beachfront vistas. Leave time for a spot of pampering at the Nai Narn Spa, and sunset cocktails at the resort’s chic rooftop bar. www.thenaiharn.com

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INTRODUCING

INTO THE WILD Safari lovers will flock to Africa's newest retreat when it opens in Zambia’s Liuwa Plain in early 2017. Mambeti Camp, by Norman Carr Safaris and African Parks, will comprise six luxurious villas, including a two-bedroom family villa, with a total capacity of 15 guests, ensuring intimacy and creature comforts in equal measure.

Named for Mambeti, a member of the Lozi tribe and a highly revered grandmother to several existing park staff, and Lady Liuwa, the world-famous matriarch around whom the park’s lion pride has evolved, the camp has been designed by acclaimed lodge arcitects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, who are also responsible for the design of Norman Carr Safaris’ flagship camp, Chinzombo. Bounded by the Luambimba and Luanginga Rivers, Liuwa has one of the oldest conservation histories in Africa, having originally been proclaimed a protected area by the King of the Lozis in the early 1880s. In addition to its famed lions, Liuwa is home to the second biggest wildebeest migration in Africa, recovering cheetah numbers, a burgeoning hyena population, wild dogs, abundant zebra, buffalo, red lechwe and tessebe herds and more than 300 bird species. www.normancarrsafaris.com

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INTRODUCING 31

ROOM TO BREATH Travellers bound for London might want to check in at the city’s newest luxury retreat, the 453-room InterContinental London – The O2 on the recently revitalised Greenwich Peninsula. Part of London’s rejuvenated historic, entertainment and financial gateway, the chic new digs offer easy access to the O2 Arena, the Cutty Sark, the Greenwich Observatory and the Maritime Museum, as well as the city centre. When you’re not exploring some of London’s most historic precincts, leave time for a bite at the fine-dining Peninsula Restaurant, or for sundowners at the hotel's elegant rooftop skybar Eighteen, home to innovative cocktails and some of the best Thames River views in the capital. www.iclondon-theo2.com

HOLISTIC HAVEN www.jetsetter.hk

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SPA PROFILE

Mystic Mountain Travellers looking for respite from city life can restore, rejuvenate, and reignite their inner spark at Aja Malibu, a new holistic haven in the Santa Monica Mountains outside Los Angeles. Nestled on 23 ocean-view acres once owned by President Roosevelt, Aja Malibu opens this spring as Tinsletown’s newest luxury boutique mountain retreat for health and wellness-seeking connoisseurs.

The lifelong dream of Australian mystic and artist Inannya Magick, who spent seven years transforming the property into a ‘Garden of Eden’ sanctuary, Aja Malibu features seven guest rooms and seven gardens. Magick uses deep earth wisdom and ancient teachings from around the world to create a signature residential programme known as ‘The Magick Process’. This immersive mind-body-spirit tune up and restorative cleanse, using plant-based cuisine and a menu of healing spa therapies, is designed to support the re-alignment and balancing of the body’s seven energy systems, known as ‘chakras,’ and reconnect people to the beauty, magic and mystery of life. Leave time for a session in the apothecary room, where guests can make their own herbal elixirs as well as enjoy DIY bath-body-beauty workshops. Seven nights from US$10,000 per person. www.ajamalibu.com

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PAMPER 33

New Year Experience

The Mandarin Oriental has introduced the Year of the Fire Monkey Spa Experience, available year-round at all of its spas globally. Designed to help dispel negative energy and ignite the body’s natural defense systems, the 90-minute treatment begins with a relaxing foot ritual with rose oil, followed by a full body exfoliation incorporating chrysanthemum flowers. After a warm shower with the addition of pomelo water, guests can indulge in a singing bowl session and a soothing Oriental meridian massage, using a blend of ylang ylang, rose and chamomile oils. A traditional Chinese red packet will be given at the end of the experience for good fortune. www.mandarinoriental.com

Middle East Indulgence

Looking for post-retail therapy relief? The newly-opened St. Regis Dubai has launched its Iridium Spa, featuring six thoughtfully designed treatment rooms in which guests can indulge in a variety of luxurious locally-inspired treatments. Designed to release stress and muscle tension, the signature Iridium Bespoke Massage comes in a range of styles, including Swedish, Deep Tissue, Hot Stone, Balinese, and Pre-Natal, and concludes with an individualised tea ritual. The Iridium Spa is also the only wellness retreat in the Middle East to offer facials using products by luxury beauty brand Swiss Perfection Cellular Skincare, which features anti-aging ingredients that can rejuvenate and lift skin. www.stregisdubai.com

Urban Wellness

The Conservatorium Amsterdam has introduced a new Urban Retreat programme at its Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre, offering travellers the chance to balance mind, body and soul.

Guests can begin their two-night stay with a consultation with KinetiCode personalised Pilates trainer Margherita Bencini, before enjoying three private sessions with her to gain a deeper understanding of postural alignment and strength-building techniques. They will also have a chance to experience the Vitaminstore Detox programme, which helps optimise internal cleansing and regenerate and restore harmony to the body. www.conservatoriumhotel.com

Perfect Skin

Visitors to the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong can now spoil themselves with a Second Skin Facial, which features Biologique Recherche’s newest product, the Second Skin, a regenerating and lifting electrospun mask. During the 60-minute facial, the professional therapist performs a lymphatic drainage massage with a cleansing milk specific to the guest’s skin, before applying the Biologique Recherche signature Lotion P50. Second Skin patches will then be applied onto the expression lines that are moistened by Second Skin serum, allowing the hyaluronic acid to completely absorb into the skin. With the finishing touch of a Creme Masque Vernix, your skin is guaranteed to look nourished and renewed. www.fourseasons.com www.jetsetter.hk

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24 HOURS

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24 HOURS 35

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36

INSIDER

Seeing

History through

L i g ht World-renowned Dutch artist Wessel Huisman recently visited Hong Kong to present his urban landscape series, The Colour of Light, at the Fabrik Gallery. He talks to Crystal Leung about the inspiration for his paintings and how light can transport people back to their memories.

Have you always been an art lover?

the way they live, and the space they create and

trigger that mechanism. People often tell me “this

My fascination for art grew when I was

recreate. Although I’m an artist at heart and soul,

painting is so familiar to me, but I can’t put my

seventeen to eighteen years old, but I didn’t

I still also make use of the training I obtained as

finger on it”. It’s not the image as such, but the

attend the academy of fine arts immediately after

a historian - the insights into what development

light quality that they recognise.

high school. I first finished my study of social

means in the course of ages. Every place has its

and economic history in university - history

own atmosphere and expression, and the light

was one of my other fascinations! I wanted to

circumstances are of great influence as they

How does Hong Kong’s art scene differ from that of The Netherlands’?

counterbalance my intellectual training and went

determine the “mood” of reality.

I

to the art academy [later].

think

there’s

more

resemblance

than

differences between The Netherlands and Hong Kong. In general, over the last forty to fifty years,

The observation of what light does to a

Your previous works were mostly in black and white; what made you change your approach?

landscape or a building triggered my fascination.

For years I only used all kinds of grey, black

determines the fashion world. Branding, hype

Not in terms of scientific research, but as an

and white layers to build up my paintings. Since

and new are the magic words in the art scene.

overwhelming and inspiring energy. With almost

I was interested in light and light contrasts, I

In fact, I don’t like the idea of ‘the art scene’ - a

thirty years of work on this subject, I have by

skipped the outspoken colours like red or blue.

unified community with one expression, policy

and by become an expert on light and ‘light

It was also a way to make the paintings more

and opinion. Good artists are very individual

atmosphere’. It was not on purpose, but in the

abstract. However I recently noticed that I could

people who follow their own drives and motives.

course of years, I realise that my works fit in

integrate colour tones in my paintings to specify

the famous Dutch tradition of light painting, with

the atmosphere of the light.

For an in-depth art experience, which city should we visit?

You mentioned light can give spectators back their history; can you explain how it works?

Go to Paris, New York, London, Amsterdam,

During the last 25 years I realised that I have

collections. The richness is overwhelming. You

a kind of light archive in my head. I very often

can wander through a city like Florence for days,

I selected these cities because they are very

recognise light circumstances related to my

or even weeks, without being fed up. Seeing the

different in history, atmosphere and outlook.

youth when I see photographs taken under

light changing the shape of the city, buildings,

Many artists nowadays turn to the interpretations

totally different conditions. Light triggers my

hills, and beautiful gardens is a pure sensation.

of intellectual gurus or philosophers to catch ‘the

memory like what a smell can do in an instant.

But the greatest of all in-depth art experiences is

spirit of the age’. I prefer to look at the people,

I notice that a lot of people are not aware of this

life itself. That’s the source of all great art. Your

sensibility, but it is there and my painting can

life is the greatest treasure you have.

Why did you choose to paint light?

pioneers like Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Gogh and Mondrian.

Why did you select Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai as the features of The Colour of Light?

www.jetsetter.hk

the making of art seems pretty much under the influences of the same mechanism that

Madrid, Florence, Rome or St. Petersburg. All the major cities in the world have huge timeless

38

POLO

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POLO 39

IN THE LAND

OF KINGS Nick Walton journeys to northern India and

the birthplace of polo, to see how the world’s oldest team sport maintains its rich heritage while enjoying its modern renaissance.

PHOTOS: Nick Walton www.jetsetter.hk

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POLO Abu Dhabi, Singapore, Thailand and even Morocco, with events planned for South Africa, Brazil and South Korea.

(left) dance and song at The Birds of Chandrapore dinner (right clockwise from left) Royal Salute tasting; Rob McHardy prepares signature cocktails; firebreathers greet guests at the Mehrangarh Fort

Polo is known as the ‘sport of kings’ and for good reason. Originally adopted by the Persian Royal Family as a training regime for the king’s elite cavalry, polo was revived during British Imperial rule. Lord Mountbatten fell in love with the game when he stepped in for an injured player in Jodhpur whilst accompanying The Prince of Wales, on his 1921-1922 tour of India and the Far East. The Prince in turn, taught his nephew, Prince Philip, who taught his son, Prince Charles, who in turn taught Princes William and Harry.

Royal affiliation is now part and parcel of the polo scene, an aspect that has helped attract new generations of players and spectators from across Asia, keen to tap in to the game’s rich colonial-era legacy. This makes for a fitting collaboration for Royal Salute, a British icon in its own right, and a major supporter of the international polo scene. Both sport and whisky share an elegant sense of Britishness, of luxury and of heritage.

That sense of luxury is certainly captured by the event’s setting; much of the festivities surrounding the British Polo Day events in Jodhpur take place at the Umaid Bhawan Palace, a sumptuous hotel and one of the world’s largest private residences. Built between 1928 and 1943 as a replacement for the towering Mehrangarh Fort, Umaid Bhawan is the last of the great palaces of India, and remains home to the Maharaja Gaj Singh II of Marwar-Jodhpur, a proud proponent of Jodhpur’s reinvigoration as the home of Indian polo. The Palace’s 105ft high

U

nder a pale blue sky tinged with golden dust, a marching band in gleaming white regalia presents itself to an esteemed crowd. An elephant dressed in vibrant robes and painted with great swirling designs, trims tuffs of grass at the edge of the vast polo field, while spectators sip whisky and signature cocktails in preparation for the match.

Suddenly, as if heralding the battle, the sky erupts as a fighter jet takes off from the nearby air force base, to patrol the ancient desert which wreaths the Blue City of Jodhpur. As the scream from the jet turbines diminishes, a bugle calls players to the field, their stout polo ponies eager to begin play. It’s a scene at once both ancient and modern; an opulent occasion that transcends time to perfection.

Jodhpur, the second largest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan, and the birthplace of modern polo, is a fitting backdrop for this regal event. The Royal Salute British Polo Day is one of India’s most coveted social and sporting events, and remains a vital component of the international Royal Salute World Polo platform, a calendar of over 40 exclusive events held in Asia, the Americas and Europe that welcome some of the game's most talented players. Sir Winston Churchill, one of the greatest proponents of the game, believed a polo handicap was a passport to the world, so it’s no surprise that British Polo Days have brought polo to 15 countries since 2009, including Indonesia, Russia, www.jetsetter.hk

POLO 41 “The palace provided perfect context for the Royal Salute Birds of Chandrapore, which while giving the tribute to British and Indian cultures, created a conversation about bridging different cultures, east and west, north and south, me and the other,” says Grigorian.

The next morning, after a tour of Jodhpur’s thriving markets and a peek at the Maharaja’s beautiful car collection, it’s time for the grand event. It’s British Polo Day’s fifth year in Jodhpur, with matches held over three days but the most anticipated tussle is the Royal Salute Marwar Trophy on day two between Jodhpur and Mundota Fort & Palace, Jaipur. As the teams prepare to battle it out on the pitch, I chat with renowned mixologist Rob McHardy of Silencio in Paris, who mans an al fresco bar and crafts rounds of signature Royal Salute Jodhpur Salute cocktails, which fuse the past and present much like modern polo does.

cupola, designed by renowned Edwardian architect Henry Lanchester, is an icon of the city.

I have the opportunity to learn more about Royal Salute at an intimate olfactory studio with acclaimed French ‘nose’ Barnabe Fillion, the whisky brand’s product creative advisor, an industry’s first. Fillion works with Royal Salute’s master blending team to introduce creative inspiration, marrying blending traditions with the worlds of art, philosophy and nature. On a sun-kissed palace patio overlooking a portion of the property’s 26 acres of lush gardens, Fillion leads whisky lovers on a sensory journey through the heritage and distilling of Royal Salute 21 Year Old blended whisky, identifying the malts which are masterfully blended to create this iconic spirit.

As night falls and the torches of the palace’s courtyards are lit, we embrace British and Indian ties further with a candlelit dinner titled The Birds of Chandrapore, the brainchild of Royal Salute’s visionary global brand ambassador Vadim Grigorian, who took inspiration from EM Forster’s classic Passage to India. Under the soaring canopy of a regal dining hall, guests from royalty, military and high society, many of whom had also attended British Polo Day events in nearby Jaipur, join His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II in exploring the mysterious dialogue between British and Indian cultures through live performances by Indian poet Abhay Tiwari, painter Mahaveer Swami and dancer Manisha Gulyani. www.jetsetter.hk

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POLO

(from top) The majesty of Umaid Bhawan Palace; Indian polo transcends time and place; a vibrant Rajasthani dancer

“With the youngest whisky in Royal Salute being 21 years old it has many complex levels and textures designed to savour slowly,” says McHardy. “Using this precious liquid and with influences from India, ancient Greece, Persia and Great Britain we have created a companion and cocktail with an earthy, sweet, heavy and erotic fragrances. Our key ingredient is dried vetiver traditionally found in Indian incense mixtures, perfumes, and fragrant waters.”

To cheers from the crowd and a trumpet from the painted elephant the local side triumph over Jaipur, further fueling the friendly rivalry between the blue and pink cities. The Royal Salute Marwar Trophy is presented to R.K.K.V Singh by His Highness the Maharaja Gaj Singh II, while Torquhil Campbell, 13th Duke of Argyll and another proud supporter of international polo, presents Dhananjay Singh the Royal Salute Most Valuable Player trophy.

As the light drains from the sky, we arrive at the imposing Mehrangarh Fort, which towers over the ancient city, to a royal welcome as bands play, fire eaters shoot great flames into the air, and women in vibrant Rajasthani saris dance in ornate archways. Torch light flickers against the weathered stone ramparts as guests make their way through the fort’s seven gates and along its battlements to an elegant castle-top cocktail party. As McHardy and his team continue to create contemporary takes on the Royal Salute journey, the lights of Jodhpur twinkle far below. The emptiness of the distant desert is as alluring and enthralling as it must have been when the British first forged their love affair with this strange and intoxicating land and its game of kings. www.jetsetter.hk

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BOUTIQUE & BEAUTIFUL

HOUSES OF

SERENITY

Known as the Thousand Year Capital, Kyoto is home to a range of intimate and elegant boutique retreats, offering beautiful vistas, luxurious comforts, and authentic Japanese cuisine. By Crystal Leung

www.jetsetter.hk

BOUTIQUE & BEAUTIFUL 45

The Screen Situated in the heart of the city, within walking distance of Kyoto Imperial Palace, The Screen boasts 13 uniquely-decorated guest rooms, each designed by a different local or international talent.

Rest in Room 301, which features a picture window with stunning views of the Shimogoryo Shrine, or pick stylish Room 401, reminiscent of a high-end residence in the Upper West Side of New York. All rooms offer 42-inch LCD TVs, Bose audio and DVD players, Nespresso coffee machines, and spacious bathrooms with Korres natural products. Make sure to check out the café lounge Sun-Sun, where a mesmerising “Kotori” pendant chandelier baths the room in 13 different hues. 640-1 Shimogoryomae-

cho, Teramachi Marutamachi-sagaru, Nakagyoku; +81 75 252 1113; www.screen-hotel.jp

Gyozanen A tranquil hideaway adjacent to the Sanzenin Temple on the outskirts of Kyoto, Gyozanen is a traditional onsen (hot spring) ryokan, offering 13 serene rooms with traditional Japanese décor and private balconies.

Thanks to three themed hot spring baths, including a "hinoki" (Japanese cypress) bath, a rock bath and an outdoor bath, guests have the opportunity to soak away stress from the hustle and bustle of city life. Be sure to book a table at the hotel restaurant, which serves KyoKaiseki traditional Kyoto cuisine, prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients. 454 Raigoin-cho Ohara Sakyo-

ku 601-1242; +81 75 744 2321; www.gyozanen.com

Suiran Located in the Arashiyama district in the western part of Kyoto, Suiran features 39 luxuriously-appointed guest rooms with incomparable Japanese touches. Private openair baths are offered in 17 rooms, allowing guests to soak in the natural scenery, be it the dramatic cherry blossoms of spring or the lush verdure of summer. Try contemporary Japanese Kaiseki and Teppanyaki at Kyo-Suiran, where authentic Japanese cooking methods are combined with French touches to create impeccable dishes, or sample delicate seasonal desserts and boutique Japanese green teas at café Saryo Hassui. Don’t forget to treat yourself to the traditional Japanese-style body massage, Seiran, at the spa. 12 Susukinobaba-cho, Saga-Tenryuji, Ukyo-ku; +81

75 872 0101; www.suirankyoto.com www.jetsetter.hk

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BUCKET LIST

THE ULTIMATE

ENCOUNTERS FOR 2016 Travel to the four corners of the globe in search of the most exhilarating, enthralling and utterly unforgettable travel experiences with our annual Bucket List. By Nick Walton Dive the deep blue sea off the coast of the Canary Island of Lanzarote to visit the world’s first underwater museum. Created by British artist and photographer Jason deCaires Taylor and situated in 15 meters of water,

Museo Atlantico, or the Atlantic Museum,

features 35 mesmerising sculptures, with plans for up to 300 more. Each statue, made from environmentallyconscious concrete, was created to help to form a safe breeding area for native species. The latest collection

by Taylor, who has underwater pieces off the coast of Mexico and Grenada and in the Thames River, Museo Atlantico’s works are captivating and moving; there is The Raft of Lampedusa, a sculpted boat carrying 13 refugees in a modern take on Géricault’s 1818 painting The Raft of the Medusa; sculptures of people gazing at their phones or indulging in selfies; and pieces that take their cues from the flora and fauna of Lanzarote. www.underwatersculpture.com

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BUCKET LIST 47

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BUCKET LIST Leobo Lodge, a private reserve in the Waterberg Mountains. Home

Cast your eyes to the heavens at South Africa’s

to a ‘million dollar golf hole’ and access to an 80.9sqkm reserve, the camp’s cutting edge observatory boasts two powerful telescopes, which make the most of spectacular conditions to gaze far into the night’s sky. The observatory’s fully-automated copper-hued dome boasts a super high tech 50cm telescope for star and planet spotting, as well as a sophisticated hydrogen alpha scope for spying on the surface of the sun in high magnification. Local astronomer and quantum physicist Dr Philip Calcott guides guests through dedicated Night Sky Safaris, with plenty of fun facts and insights along the way.

Combine your stay with fishing trips, helicopter safaris, quad biking and even sky diving. www.jacadatravel.com

The

Trans-Siberian Railway is a journey on many bucket lists and

rightly so; at 9,288 kilometres, it’s the longest rail journey on the planet, crossing the largest country in the world, passing through 87 cities, over 16 rivers on 485 bridges, and through eight time zones over seven days.

If there was a time to do this epic adventure, it’s in 2016, which marks the line’s 100th anniversary. The trans-Siberian actually refers to the three rail routes that traverse Siberia from Moscow: the Trans-Mongolian (Moscow to Beijing via Ulaanbaatar); the Trans-Manchurian (Moscow to Beijing via Siberia and Manchuria); and the iconic Trans-Siberian (Moscow to Vladivostok). There are two ways to do the Trans-Siberian: Travel All Russia (travelallrussia.com) offers the iconic Trans-Siberian rail experience over 21 days between Moscow and Vladivostok via Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk and Irkutsk. Alternatively do the journey in style aboard the Golden Eagle – same journey, but with plenty of creature comforts – over 15 days with Country Holidays (countryholidays.com.hk) complete with luxurious accommodation, butler service and guided daily excursions. You’ll pass through the 7km-long tunnel beneath the Amur River, visit the only train station in the world made entirely of marble, and skirt mighty Lake Baikal and the soaring Urals.

For intrepid travellers looking to splurge, the truly unique

Tip To

Toe itinerary from Private Jet Tours, priced at a cool US$100,000 per person, is an 11-day odyssey that transports travellers from the North Pole to the South Pole in opulent style. Begin at the Luton Hoo Spa & Golf Resort in England, where you’ll meet your fellow world wanderers, before jetting to Finnish Lapland in a Bombardier Global 5000 private jet. Camp out in glass igloos beneath the Northern Lights at the Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, spend a day on the Sampo, the Finnish government’s own icebreaker, and brave the icy waters of the Bay of Bothnia – dry suit optional. Then it’s the long journey due south to Cape Town, from where the group will fly to Antarctica for zip lining, kite skiing, spelunking and for the less active, visits to a Russian scientific base and to the Emperor penguins of Atka Bay. Limited to just ten, this tour includes gourmet meals, flights, luxury accommodation and guides. www.privatejettours.co.uk www.jetsetter.hk

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Flight Centre’s Hot List for 2016

If you’re already planning escapes for the upcoming year, you may want to look further than the usual regional resorts to some of the world’s most unique and inspiring destinations. Whether it’s swimming in hot springs in New Zealand or sipping the best mojito of your life in buzzing Havana, here are our top travel destinations for 2016.

New Zealand Lush forests, snow-capped mountains, rolling hills, crystal-clear lakes, bubbling volcanoes, spectacular glaciers, it’s no wonder that New Zealand’s natural beauty proved the perfect backdrops for The Lord Of The Rings and The Hobbit films. There’s more to New Zealand than acres of wilderness – although exploring its awe-inspiring scenery via one of the famous nine “Great Walks” is definitely a good start. Adrenaline junkies can take advantage of stellar surf breaks, heart-thumping bungee jumping and sky diving and foodies will love the fresh seafood and world-class wines. The weak NZ dollar means this is the ideal time to visit.

Brazil Rio de Janeiro is blessed with a stunning natural setting, including some of the world’s finest beaches, all under the benevolent gaze of the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue. Now gearing up to host the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games in August and September, this is the perfect time to head to Brazil and experience the world’s biggest celebration in the world’s best party city. Brazil is also a great gateway to the rest of South America, from the wildlife of the Amazon rainforest to the mysterious ru-

17 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong

ins of Machu Picchu, Easter Island’s imposing statues, and the unparalleled diversity of the Galapagos Islands.

Bhutan A world-class hiking and climbing destination set against the towering backdrop of jagged Himalayan peaks, a visit to Bhutan is a spiritual retreat from modern life that offers unparalleled peace and tranquillity in a country steeped in Buddhism. The capital city Thimphu is liberally sprinkled with significant monuments, from the golden-roofed monastery within the fortified Tashichho Dzong to The Memorial Chorten, with its iconic gilt spire. Visit in early October for the spectacular Thimphu Tsechu, a lively three-day festival of dance, food and music.

Cuba A hedonist’s paradise, Cuba boasts a tropical climate, stunning white sandy beaches and, of course, the finest cigars and rum you’ll find anywhere in the world. Havana’s UNESCOprotected Old Town could have come straight from a movie set; 1950’s US-made cars cruise the streets as dance clubs blast salsa music.

The city’s 16th century Spanish colonial architecture makes for fascinating exploration,

Shop 8B, 10 Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley, Hong Kong

66-68 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

whilst the city also boasts some fine museums, including the Museum of the Revolution, which offers visitors an insight into the country’s often-turbulent history. Cuba’s relations with neighbouring USA are finally beginning to thaw after many years of embargo, so visit sooner rather than later to enjoy this Caribbean island while it’s still relatively undeveloped.

Croatia Winter is coming… and thanks to Game of Thrones, the stream of Croatia-bound tourists keep coming too! The walled city of Dubrovnik was the setting for much of the action in the cult TV show and once you’ve wandered around its incredible Old Town, where mediaeval forts encircle awe-inspiring Gothic and Baroque buildings, you’ll understand why so many have fallen in love with the place. If blissed-out beaches and stunning scenery are more your bag, Croatia has those in spades too; the azure lakes and cascading waterfalls of the Plitvice Lakes are a must-see whilst the coastline resorts of Istria offer a dose of sunny Adriatic charm. Head to Croatia in summer to catch its action-packed events season, which includes the long-running Dubrovnik Summer Festival. www.flightcentre.com.hk

Shop G-15, 92 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay North Plaza, Lantau Island

Tel: 2830 2730 www.flightcentre.com.hk

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BUCKET LIST Iceland has made the list before and for good reason; few destinations combine accessibility with jaw-dropping landscapes and the temperament of the fire gods. Take a different perspective on this ancient yet active land with helicopter safaris from

Noröurflug, which aims to please the

adventurous spirit, satisfy your curiosity and most of all, showcase Iceland’s rugged otherworldly vistas. The company’s Geothermal Tour allows you to witness Iceland‘s raw energy first hand. You‘ll fly over the most active volcanic area in Iceland - the Hellisheiði Plateau - with a view along the way of moss covered lava fields stretching out to the horizon interspersed with colourful basalt mountains, steaming hot springs and the very geothermal power plants that supply Reykjavik with its renewable energy. Imagine landing in a remote setting ringed by steaming geysers, knowing that few humans had ever ventured there before. You’ll experience Iceland just how nature intended it to be. www.heli.is

Taking advantage of enormous changes in the ecosystem of the Norwegian Sea, which has seen large numbers of orcas and humpback whales feeding on herring in the north’s remote fjords, Waterproof Expeditions has created a unique orca itinerary aboard its expedition yacht the 15-passenger MV Malmo. The Norway Orca Expedition combines whale watching, photography and guided snorkeling in the crystal clear waters of the Arctic Circle in search of migrating orca and humpbacks, which follow the herring schools through this pristine environment from November to February. Spend your days spying white tailed eagles and moose from the bridge as you search for whale pods, before slipping into the Arctic waters in special drysuits for a snorkeling experience like no other. By night enjoy the Northern Lights from the deck or cosy up with informative lectures in the ship’s lounge. From € 3,375 (US$3,753) per person, with departures between November 13 2016 and February 5, 2017. www.waterproof-expeditions.com Celebrating 50 years since independence, Botswana is a Southern African success story and is slated as one of the hottest destinations for 2016 thanks to diverse wildlife, captivating delta and desert vistas, and improving infrastructure. A picture of conservation, a whopping 17 percent of Botswana is national park, including aspects of the acclaimed Okavango Delta, which was named UNESCO’s 1,000th World Heritage Site in 2014. The Delta is where the action is, thanks to its abundant wildlife, from cheetah, bush elephants, hippo and Angolan giraffe, to Nile crocodiles, lions, leopards, brown and spotted hyena and black rhino. Set up shop in one of the Delta’s luxurious yet low-impact game retreats; the newest of &Beyond’s four beautifully-appointed camps in the Okavango is &Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge, situated on a private concession wreathed by wild palms and fig trees.

Home to just eight elegant guest suites, each with a private plunge pool, it’s the perfect base from which to explore on early morning and evening game drives and guides game walks. www.andbeyond.com www.jetsetter.hk

BUCKET LIST 51 For the faithful and culturally-inclined a pilgrimage is a great opportunity to combine religion with a well-earned respite from city life. The most popular of the modern pilgrimages, the

Camino de Santiago, also known

as the Way of St James, reaches to the shrine of apostle St James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in beautiful northwest Spain. An important pilgrimage during the Middle Ages, today you can cover the route in style with an eight-day itinerary from Flight Centre between Sarria and Santiago, available between September and April. During the route, the last 115km of this historic journey, you’ll pass through charming hamlets and rustic farmland, enjoy sweeping rural landscapes, and stay in elegant local B&Bs nestled amidst the rolling hills of Galicia. Factor in fantastic food and drink at each stop of your journey and you have all the ingredients for a culturally rich, truly memorable experience. The week-long itinerary, priced from HK$6,500 (US$836) per person, includes luggage transfers, accommodation and meals. www.flightcentre.com.hk

So you’re a jaded traveller who’s checked into the best hotels in the world and is now rarely impressed.

We’re sure The Natura Vive Skylodge’s three

Adventure Suites, which cling to the side of a cliff face overlooking the Sacred Valley of Cuzco, Peru, will change all that. Accessible via a spot of zip lining, each 7x3m vertical hanging module is fashioned from aerospace-quality aluminum and high–resistance polycarbonate and features four beds, a dining area and a private bathroom. Although you’re perched 120m above the valley floor, you’ll still enjoy the creature comforts, including quality mattresses, warm quilts and solar powered lighting, and you’ll share captivating 300-degree views of the Milky Way and dawn across the valley with just three others. GBP200 (US$286) per person per night; www.adventure.travel Explore the stunning architecture of one of Europe’s most beautiful cities under a canopy of stars with a unique night photography tour from Venice’s Belmond Hotel Cipriani. The fully-bespoke tours, which range from twohour nightly sojourns to half-day photo excursions, uncover some of Venice’s many secrets, visiting vibrant markets and hidden lagoons, as well as access to the vaults within Il Circolo la Gondola, historically Italy’s most important photography association. Here you’ll find works by Paolo Monti, Gianni Berengo Gardin, Fulvio Roiter, Sergio Del Pero, Mario Giacomelli, and Franco Fontana. Members of the association are also available to guide intrepid shutter bunnies into the depths of the Ghetto, the former shipyards of the Arsenale, or the ancient church of San Giacomo dell'Orio. Tours can cater to beginners or advanced photographers and are priced from €190 (US$214) per person per hour. www.belmond.com www.jetsetter.hk

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ROAD WARRIOR

THE SINGING

BIRD

How do you endure long-haul flights?

I try to sleep as soon as I can. It's not always easy, but I try to sleep before watching films. I usually watch at least two movies or interesting local music videos, if there’s any. I also write a lot of things down that I find inspiring, and I like taking photos or videos of people that I find interesting. Water is the key; I chug water and get up as much as I can. Squats help improve blood circulation, while a great Korean face mask keeps my skin hydrated.

Award-winning singer and songwriter ‘Princess’ Joy Villa tours Where are you dying to go?

25 countries a year to thrill audiences with her rock-infused pop I haven't been to Africa yet. I want to visit where my mother's ancestors are music. She talks to Crystal Leung about her favourite cities, travel Cameroon, from. I'm part Cameroonian, part Cherokee, and necessities, and tips to endure a long-haul flight. half Italian. I also wish to see Jamaica, Haiti, and Brazil. I love the heritage of Latin America.

To what extend has travel inspired What’s your most unforgettable travel What’s your holiday travel style? your career and living style? experience?

A lot! I've grown up moving around as my dad worked up and down California. I never really felt "settled" until I moved to New York City as a young adult. Travel has given me a strong sense of self; I've had to rely on myself and now appreciate being alone as well as being with new people. I've been "the new girl" at schools more times than I can count but living on the road has set me up to how I live now - out of several Louis Vuitton suitcases.

Which is your favourite city to visit?

Definitely New York City; it's my heart, my soul.

I should have been born there, but in the 70s!

I also adore London and Tokyo, which are my top spots. London is a great, old city filled with history, while Tokyo is clean, beautiful and exciting. I'm a Kawaii girl at heart! www.jetsetter.hk

I've been touring 25 countries a year regularly since 2012 and every tour is unforgettable. I'm constantly amazed at the beauty of this world. I tend to explore big cities; I like action, adventure, and meeting new and unusual people. I've made so many cool friends as I tour; I'm sort of a collector of people.

What are the five most important things in your carry-on?

I always carry my cell phone; it's my mini computer to work on. I also have vegan snacks, like fruit, nuts, and Lenny & Larry's protein cookies; Shiseido eye cream as a thick, beautiful moisturiser to fight the dryness of travel; an eye mask to block the light out when I sleep; and a makeup kit with red lipstick and liquid eyeliner.

I'm rarely on holiday but when it’s time to relax, I go to Bali and just chill in the sun in my bikini.

I got to do this for five days last Christmas and I was feeling bliss.

What’s your neighbourhood like?

My neighbourhood is the world. I’m in Los Angeles right now and I'm partial to West Hollywood; I like visiting the gay community and watching the theatrics of Hollywood. When I'm in New York, I usually stay in Midtown and watch live music on the Lower East Side.

What do you have coming up?

I'm working on my newest album and I have a China tour planned this summer; photo-shoots for magazines; and another Grammy's red carpet appearance. There is no rest for the wicked.

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Botanica Bay, Hong Kong

LU X UR Y IS L A ND L I V IN G

B

lending opulence with ultimate levels of privacy, one breathtaking views of the South China Sea, each three-storey retreat of the city’s most coveted addresses, Botanica Bay, is lavishly-appointed and features four over-sized ensuite bedrooms, crowns pristine Cheung Sha Beach, the longest and a spacious, manicured garden, and a generous verandah from which one of the most beautiful in Hong Kong. Set against to watch the changing of the seasons. Each mansion also boasts its the luscious backdrop of South Lantau Country Park, own dedicated parking close at hand. Houses 2, 12 and 19 also

home to towering, mist-shrouded peaks and rich tropical vegetation, boast their own swimming pools, which are ideal for families seeking Botantica Bay is a commune with Mother Nature that’s away from a respite from the heat or couples looking to entertain. the chaos and crowds of the city, yet readily accessible to savvy urbanites.

With Hong Kong International Airport approximately 20 minutes away and the business and entertainment hub of Tsim Sha Tsui

Situated at Cheung Sha, an exclusive enclave graced with the accessible within 40 minutes’ drive, Botanica Bay is an elite, luxury expansive colonial-era vacation homes of Hong Kong’s high society, sanctuary that’s as perfect for a home away from the hustle of city the ultra-luxe Botanica Bay consists of just 16 Luxury Ocean life as it is as a retreat for city dwellers looking to escape on the View Mansions, ranging from 3,725 sqft to 5,573 sqft. Offering weekend. www.botanicabay.hk House 12, Botanica Bay

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GALAPAGOS

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GALAPAGOS 57

THE LAND BEFORE TIME Despite boasting some of the planet’s youngest islands, there is an ancientness about the Galapagos Islands, a remote and fragile chain that’s home to some of the world’s strangest yet most endearing inhabitants. Words & Photos by Nick Walton.

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GALAPAGOS (clockwise from top) Exploring the lava fields of Fernandina; red rock crabs add a dash of colour to the ancient coastline; a giant tortoise

I

learned a long time ago it’s important to connect with the locals when arriving in a new destination, but I’ve not faced this kind of welcome before; there are lizards - ancient, grimacing lizards - literally everywhere I look, and I’m struggling to put my foot down without making one of those locals extremely grumpy. In a scene reminiscent of low-budget 50s sci-fis, ashhued iguanas, some the size of housecats, with Godzilla-like profiles and long, slender claws, are stacked three deep on the jagged lava coastline, making climbing from our zodiac a very delicate maneuver. I finally take the leap, landing in their ranks, not to be devoured by tiny mouths but to be completely ignored. This is the beauty of the Galapagos Islands, barren volcanic peaks that jut from the ocean 1,000 kilometers off the Ecuadorean coast; everywhere you turn, nature abounds.

It’s our second day exploring this blissfully remote frontier with Lindblad-National Geographic, a unique collaboration between the world’s oldest expedition company and the acclaimed natural sciences magazine. Our PhD-wielding naturalist Carlos Romero, part of a team of guides aboard the stout expedition ship National Geographic Endeavour, greets our little band of camera toting travellers and leads our hike along the coast of Fernandina, the youngest (in geological terms just a baby) of the archipelago’s 18 odd islands In many ways Fernandina sums up the Galapagos Islands to a tee. At its centre is a towering shield volcano crowned by a cantankerous caldera that’s been in a foul mood since it last began erupting in April 2009. Yet, despite its barren and bleak flanks, the island’s coastline is thriving

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GALAPAGOS

LUMIERE LIGHT ART FESTIVAL

with life, from somnolent iguanas, who take turns to crawl into the sea in search of their favourite snack, red algae, before rushing back to the lava to warm up; to a myriad of birdlife, some residents, some just passing through. Flightless cormorants, far happier diving deep into the sea than soaring above it, watch us from a rocky outcrop with vivid blue eyes, the salt water beading off their waterproof feathers. Two seal lion pups

(clockwise from top left) a vividly coloured land iguana; guide Carlos; a Galapagos hawk

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play fight in a rock pool before braving a tentative sniff at our hiking boots. In a lagoon wreathed by ancient rock that’s layered like cream cake a green turtle bobs in the tide searching for lunch.

a small boutique, a spacious lounge where guests meet for daily lectures and evening cocktail debriefs, and an intimate dining room where chefs present South Americaninfluenced comfort food.

If towering volcanic peaks, birds that swim like fish, and moody (but at the same timer quite adorable) lizards are the ancient face of Galapagos, then Lindblad-National Geographic is its modern persona. The company has been operating in the islands for half a century (they pioneered travel here in 1967), long before any other operators saw the potential of this remote locale. With two ships permanently based in the islands, and a crew of experienced guides, many of whom were born in the Galapagos, the cruise line is also the largest single contributor to the efforts of the Charles Darwin Research Station at Santa Cruz, a bastion of conservation policy that has focused its effort on education and preservation since opening in 1959.

Timeless, rather unforgiving landscapes that have changed little since Darwin arrived, the islands of the Galapagos are exactly as nature intended, in balance, ebbing and flowing with the movement of the sea currents which first delivered life to their ancient shores. But this isn’t by chance.

Conservation is at the core of the Galapagos experience. A total of 97 percent of the island chain is protected, and inhabitation in the remaining space is carefully controlled by the Ecuadorean government. Tourist numbers have tripled in 20 years, making biosecurity and conservation efforts even more important; Lindblad-National Geographic, like other Galapagos operators, must follow a strict expedition timeline that’s designed to minimize the impact of tourism on wildlife while ensuring every guest gets a chance to enjoy this remote Eden without a flotilla of crowded vessels anchored nearby.

We had met the National Geographic Endeavour, a North Sea trawler turned hardy, 96-passenger adventure cruiser, the day before, after arriving from the Ecuadorian city of Guayaquil. Our cabin is spacious, clean and comfortable, with plenty of room to stow luggage, a well-appointed bathroom and two single bunks. The ship also boasts

Education is a big part of those conservation efforts and is at the heart of the LindbladNational Geographic experience. Each day we’re briefed on where the ship will sail, what we might see and how to best prepare

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GALAPAGOS (clockwise from left) Lindblad-National Geographic's zodiacs offer unparalleled access; a Galapagos sea lion; a male frigate struts his stuff

for it. At some islands, like sea horse-shaped Isabela, formed by the merger of no less than six shield volcanos, we ride the ship’s military-grade zodiacs in for a wet landing, stepping into the shallows on a deserted beachhead. On others, like North Seymore, home to the world’s largest populations of frigates and blue footed boobies, we enjoy a dry landing but usually finish off our explorations with a welcomed dip in the warm equatorial waters.

There is always something new to discover and thanks to our guides, plenty to learn. On North Seymore Island we trace the rugged coast line in search of male frigates puffing www.jetsetter.hk

out their red gular pouches and stretching out their ink-black wings in elaborate mating rituals. Further inland we discover vibrantlyhued land iguanas in every shade of yellow, orange and red imaginable, and watch bluefooted boobies, fresh from deep seat fishing, feeding new hatchlings. Snorkelling near Isabela Island with naturalist native Paul Vergara, we’re joined by an inquisitive sea lion, his eyes rarely leaving us as he dives, swoops and tumbles through the depths, a silver string of bubbles trailing towards the surface. He is quickly dubbed the ‘little showoff’ although he’s bigger than most guests. Beyond, solitary white tipped sharks and a pair of spotted eagle rays glide by

unhindered by our clumsy splashing above.

During regular photographic expeditions with National Geographic-certified photographer Christian Saa, we brush up on our use of light and ISO to get the perfect picture of vibrant pink flamingos, flightless cormorants, proud Galapagos hawks and even the islands’ own tiny penguin species.

There’s also plenty on offer aboard the ship.

One afternoon, as the National Geographic Endeavour steams south, Galapagos’ first Fulbright scholar Jonathan Aguas leads us through the history of his island home, from the arrival of the first explorers and the observations of Darwin, through to the

GALAPAGOS 63

land scuffles between eccentric German utopianists and a larger-than-life Baroness and her two flunkies. As we cross the equator for the 6th time guests gather on the bow for a cheese and wine-laced sunset soiree.

We finish our exploration of Galapagos in the lush highlands of Santa Cruz, one of the few inhabited islands in the chain. There’s time to visit a primary school that Lindblad-National Geographic supports, its classrooms wreathed by brightly-coloured hand-painted giant tortoises, before we climb the island’s peaks in search of the real thing. We come across these huge, ancient animals in a

swampy paddock, one of their favourite spots during their seasonal migration. The iconic giant tortoises, certainly one of the Galapagos’ biggest drawcards, have a lot in common with their remote island home.

On the outside they seem hardy and built to last forever, but the reality is that, like the vibrant ecosystems we’ve explored over the week, they’re surprisingly fragile and will only survive our ever-changing world with a sustainable balance of awareness and conservation. Fortunately, companies like Lindblad-National Geographic are paving the way for responsible tourism that will ensure these remarkable islands and their otherworldly inhabitants, will be safeguarded for

generations to enjoy.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Getting There: Fly Cathay Pacific (www. cathaypacific.com) to Los Angeles and on to Guayaquil with American Airlines (www.aa.com) Getting Around: Lindblad ExpeditionsNational Geographic operates week long expeditions aboard National Geographic Endeavour and National Geographic Islander year-round. From US$6,590 per person, twin share. www.expeditions.com www.jetsetter.hk

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

EDEN OF THE PACIFIC DANIEL WALTON RETRACES THE STEPS OF HIS FAMILY’S

LEGACY IN THE BEAUTIFUL AND REMOTE SOLOMON ISLANDS. www.jetsetter.hk

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

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aising the ghostly sepia image to the sky, I attempt to line up the photo’s faded horizon line with that of the tree-lined landscape before me. Mechanical cogs in my head finally lock in place with certainty; the two images match and I’ve located the site of my great grandparents’ wedding day.

Little remains of the Methodist church shown in the aged photograph and it makes me a little melancholic; here I am, their great grandson, standing on the same hilltop, on a minuscule island in an all-but forgotten corner of the world, 87 years late for the party.

I arrived in the Solomon Islands, a mysterious Melanesian archipelago still in its tourism infancy, intent on unravelling a chapter of my family’s past that has lain dormant for nearly a century. Like many brave young men, my great grandfather, Dr Edward Sayers, served in the Melanesian Theatre during WWII, having first arrived in The Solomons in 1927 to help establish a Methodist Mission and a general hospital. While my 86-year old Grandmother can still recite the Rovianan nursery rhymes of her childhood, there’s little recorded evidence of this South Pacific legacy and I’m the first family member to return to the islands.

Situated northwest of Vanuatu and east of Papua New Guinea, this hidden, enigmatic archipelago consists of a scattering of nearly one thousand pristine islands, many of which remain completely untouched by human civilisation. So unaffected by the new world is the Solomons, that parts of the country still trade in the traditional currency bata, or shell money, using shells, feathers, and even dolphin teeth in lieu of money.

Taking off from Henderson Airfield on the now infamous island of

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

Guadalcanal, my journey of discovery takes me towards the remote western provinces.

Below, the lush jungle-covered islands take on an entirely new dimension, transforming themselves into a scattering of emeralds on an ever-expanding turquoise blanket. It’s from the air that the Solomon archipelago can truly be appreciated; expansive, pristine coral atolls and lush uninhabited islands compel thoughts of the romanticised deserted tropical island existence into mind.

Our first stop is Gizo Island…well nearly. Due to the topography of Gizo, the closest runway is on neighbouring Nusatupe Island, meaning new arrivals access their accommodation www.jetsetter.hk

across the lagoon by boat. At the end of the town’s rickety pier I’m met by Danny Kennedy who, with his wife Kerrie, has been in Gizo for over three decades, running Dive Gizo (divegizo.com). A former island mayor, what Danny doesn’t know about Gizo, above and below the waves, isn’t worth the time it takes to learn.

In the late 1920s my great grandfather worked as one of the few doctors in the extremely remote Western Solomons. A specialist in tropical medicine, Edward helped to establish the first hospitals on the islands of Vella Lavella, Munda and Gizo.

Heavy fighting during the Pacific campaign

means little remains of that era but Danny is determined to show me Gizo’s WWII secrets below the waves.

The diving in the Solomon Islands is amongst the best and most exhilarating in the world, with a vast array of dive sites offering everything from coral reefs with some of the highest fish counts on the planet, to historic and confronting WWII wrecks. It truly is an unspoilt, underwater Eden that divers can enjoy all to themselves.

“Have you ever swum through a torpedo hole?” cries Danny as we make our way to our first dive site, the resting place of the ill-fated

SOLOMON ISLANDS 69 Toa Maru. The Japanese transport ship was sunk by an American torpedo in 1942, and now rests 25m below the surface, relatively intact after all these years. The 140m vessel sunk before it could be off-loaded, which makes for a virtual underwater museum for any keen diver. The only other visitors you have to contend with are turtles, eagle rays and of course the cacophony of colourful reef fish that call the site’s abundant coral beds home. Entering the ship’s cargo hold, I spy the remains of a Type 21 tank, surrounded by scattered rounds of ammunition, and of course dozens of bottles of ‘sea-aged’ sake.

Emerging from the shadowy depths as the sun paints the surrounding landscape with a golden brush, we cruise west to the famous Fatboys resort (solomonislandsfatboys.com. au), for a much needed ice cold Sol Brew. An almost cult-like establishment, Fatboys has dug its heels in as ‘the’ place to stay in this secluded, remote corner of the globe.

I sit on the deck of the resort’s expansive overwater bar and watch the chef discard fish heads into the shallow waters with a smile in his eyes. Within moments the water is filled with the grey bulk of a half dozen reef sharks, all jouncing with each other

like excited puppies. I take a sip of my brew, watch the sun’s final rays disappear into the waves, and embrace just how special this place is.

The following day a 20-minute flight lands me in tiny Munda on New Georgia, the largest island in the Western Provinces, and the cradle of Roviana culture. Once home to some of the most feared head-hunters in the Solomons, the island remains scattered with evidence of a cannibalistic past that is more recent that most might expect. In fact, the last documented act of cannibalism was said to have occurred in 1913, when an English trader was reportedly consumed after offending local elders.

Only a decade later a bright-eyed Dr Sayers was transferred from the London Medical School to New Georgia. Within the year he would marry my great grandmother in the same church, overlooking Munda, he helped to build.

Agnes Gateway Hotel (agneshotelsolomon. com), formerly known as Agnes Lodge, is perched overlooking the island-studded Roviana Lagoon. Established shortly after the Solomons received Independence in

1976, this 28-room family-run lodge is a primary port of call for anyone needing local advice on the island’s diving and fishing expeditions, WWII tours and cultural excursions. Here I appropriate a seat under an ancient banyan trees, order some locallysqueezed bush lime juice, and watch traders, fishermen and families traverse the lagoon beyond.

A stay in Munda isn’t complete without a trip to Kundu Hite, the infamous Skull Island. Bristling with palm trees, it’s home to the sacred remains of the Rovianan tribal dynasty. Their bones lie like trophies on a podium of coral, silently watching over their former kingdom. But as fascinating as Skull Island is, I’m won over by an even more remote locale, Titiru.

Titiru Eco Lodge (facebook.com/titiru. ecolodge) delivers intrepid world wanderers its own quandary: do you whisper of its existence and risk its eventual desecration, or remain selfish and silent, instead enjoying its stunning natural beauty with a fateful few?

Tucked away among secluded mangroves on the mountainous island of Rendova, an hour’s boat ride from Munda, Titiru is like

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

Provinces, including the magic of ‘dolphin calling’ possessed by the native people of neighbouring Melita. Practioners would summon pods of dolphins by hitting stones together under the water.

A coming of age ordeal, young men would be tasked with wrestling a dolphin onto shore using nothing but their bare hands. While the practice is rarely performed today, Kilo is determined to keep this traditional link with nature alive for future generations.

After enjoying the last of my time in the Solomons at Honiara’s iconic Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel (kitanomendana.com), one of the nation’s few luxurious enclaves, and a popular hub for islandbound travellers looking to explore Guadalcanal, I head home. As we take off I watch the vibrant colours of the Pacific Eden disappear beneath the clouds, as if being reclaimed by Mother Nature.

I was drawn here determined to learn about a relative I never had the chance to meet and yet leave with a new sense of belonging, both to the place and its people, with whom I share no blood, but who have taken me in, and treated me as family, as they did when Edward Sayers arrived so many years before.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Get There: Solomon Airlines link Honiara with Sydney, Brisbane and Nadi in Fiji. www.flysolomons.com More info: www.visitsolomons.com.sb stepping back in time. The creation of enigmatic local personality Kilo Paza, Titiru Eco Lodge was designed to make a genuine contribution to both its surrounding environment and to the people of its neighbouring village. Offering gorgeously handcrafted cottages wreathed by fragrant orchards, the lodge is proud of what it doesn’t offer, from electricity and internet access to television. Instead guests are lovingly reminded of the benefits of speaking face to face, rather than Facebooking.

As dinner is served, each traditional dish is enthusiastically narrated by Kilo, from how his harvest has been, to the methodical preparation required, and of course where the best fish are found. Everything is grown and caught locally and sustainably.

As evening encircles our smoky, aromatic campfire Kilo explains the timeless rituals of the Western www.jetsetter.hk

72

MYANMAR

BURMESE

DREAMING

Travelling through some of Asia’s most beautiful landscapes, Nick Walton cruises the Ayeyarwady River in Myanmar aboard the newly launched Strand Cruise.

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MYANMAR

(clockwise from left) An ancient shrine in Ava; cocktails on a remote sandbank; a Strand Cabin

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t’s a captivating sight as our grumbling little prop plane descends through wispy cloud cover, catching the first rays of morning just as they bathe Bagan’s thousands of terracotta temples in gold. An armada of hot air balloons in maroon, teal and mandarin rises above the vibrant landscape to greet the sunrise and the whole mesmerizing scene is captured by camera toting travellers glued to their Perspex windows as we line up for our final approach.

Myanmar is filled with magical moments like this, when the nation’s rich heritage and its bold future meet like waves lapping at a shoreline. One of the fastest emerging destinations in the world, Myanmar has stepped out of the political shadows and now welcomes travellers of every persuasion, from backpackers and pilgrims, to wellheeled world wanderers looking to capture the perfect shot of Bagan’s temple plains from a thousand feet up.

However, there is one thing that binds many travellers to Myanmar, and many of the destinations they seek to visit: the Ayeyarwady River. For centuries this mighty waterway has been the lifeblood of Burma.

More recently it has helped travel companies take their first tentative steps into Myanmar,

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with luxurious river cruisers plying the gentle waters between ancient former capitals like Mandalay, Bagan and Sagaing. The newest arrival is The Strand Cruise, an aquatic incarnation of Yangon’s luxurious, centuryold hotel.

The ship’s crew meet us at Bagan’s pint-sized airport and escort us to breakfast, served in the serene grounds of a local lacquer workshop. As we dine on fresh croissants and fruit, artisans polish and intricately decorate lacquer boxes, alms bowls and traditional puppets in the shade of a stilted studio, but it’s not long until we’re off to explore this most thrilling of Burmese destinastions.

As the sun climbs high in the sky we visit the iconic Shwezigon Pagoda, part of the Bagan Heritage Trail. Its gold-leafed flanks shimmer in the dazzling morning sunshine as tourists mingle with locals and religious pilgrims. At

the ancient Ananda Temple nearby, monks wrapped in crimson robes celebrate a religious festival with a feast while chanting echoes through the shrine’s smooth, stone halls. One of the most important temples in the country, we tour Ananda’s corridors and gaze up at its four gilded Buddhas in the company of experienced local guides, who map out the rise and fall of the Pagan Kingdom which once dominated modern day Myanmar.

We soon arrive at the 54-passenger RV Strand Cruise, meeting her at the edge of a gentle curve in the river, the ship’s bright white façade striking against the earth tones of the rural landscape. Smiling young waiters offer new arrivals cold drinks and moist towels as they guide them to one of 27 staterooms.

My main deck deluxe cabin, with its queen sized bed, teakwood floors, writing desk and ample sized bathroom, faces the river bank

and from its floor-to-ceiling Juliet balcony I watch children play in the shallows below.

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION 75 MYANMAR

The first thing you notice is how elegantly appointed the ship is; there’s timelessness at play but with a contemporary undertone that makes the décor undeniably luxurious yet refreshing. Black and white photos in black liqueur frames line rich teak bookcases; golden rice bowls cling to the main stairwell forming a shimmering mural; and there’s a faint smell of polish and beeswax mixed with rich coffee and subtle spice in the air. Despite its heritage cues, The Strand Cruise is a modern homage to Burma’s history, rather than a floating mausoleum to the past.

The top deck is the heart of the ship, with its little (and bracingly cold) plunge pool, its wrap-around decks and its army of sun loungers. As the sun hangs low in the sky, guests gather in the sumptuous bar or at the rattan lounge suites which line the shaded deck, and sip cocktails the same colour as the clouds above. The light draining from the sky leaves the tops of Bagan’s 2,500 odd temples, stupas and pagodas in profile against a sky the colour of amber.

The next morning the views from Tant Kyi Pagoda, also known as The Glass Monastery, are equally enchanting. Far below the Ayeyarwady meanders through a vast flood plain, the silhouettes of an army of 11th century stupas stark on the horizon. It’s hard to imagine things as they

must have been; each of Bagan’s thousands of stupas and pagodas (researchers believe the river has swallowed up many hundreds more) was built not in isolation but surrounded by family homes, businesses, schools and monasteries. A thriving civilization once dwelled here beside the river. Centuries later, its crumbling houses of worship would inspire writers like Rudyard Kipling and George Orwell.

There’s plenty to be inspired by as we sail north, our course at the whim of the river and its ever-shifting sand banks. Despite a raft of sophisticated technology at their disposal, crew still navigate the river using traditional striped poles, which they dip into the caramelcoloured waters in long, arching sweeps. At some points the riverbed rises up to greet us and the first mate is sent ahead in a small boat to poke and prod our way around the obstructions. We pass less prudent vessels, great plumes of exhaust enveloping them as they struggle to pass an unexpected sand bar.

(from top) Bagan’s lacquer tradition; dining on the Strand Cruise sundeck; a traditional woodwork studio in Mandalay; the bar is a central meeting place for guests

The itinerary’s long afternoon, evening, and following morning spent cruising is a great chance to explore the ship and soak in the lingering landscapes uninterupted. Beyond the bar, with its Cuban cigar humidor and single malt whisky collection, is an intimate library www.jetsetter.hk

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MYANMAR (from top) Bagan’s Shwezigon Pagoda; the Burmese are famed for their friendly welcome

enjoy both the cuisine and the landscapes of one of Asia’s most beautiful nations. The traditional afternoon tea served at The Strand Hotel is replicated late one afternoon, with delicate cakes and china pots of locally-sourced tea, while dinners, served in the dark and sexy Strand Restaurant, are a symphony of influences, textures and traditions. There’s always something new on offer; after an afternoon exploring the whitewashed terraces of the Paya Hsinbyume pagoda in Mingun, crew construct a bonfire and host an impromptu cocktail party on a remote sandbank and on the last night we’re treated at a traditional banquet influenced by the cuisine of Myanmar’s remote Shan State.

filled with stories of Southeast Asia, of river life and of Burma’s colonial era. A tiny spa proves popular in the late afternoon when guests book themselves in for full body massages, facials and invigorating scrubs.

Many others bask in the afternoon sunshine around the pool or join the captain in the bridge as the ship passes riverside villages and toots to convoys of colourful local ferries.

Dining is a lavish affair onboard The Strand Cruise. Breakfasts are lingering meals that fuel guests for their daily excursions, whether it’s exploring Ava by traditional horse cart, or walking the length of the famed U Bein Bridge, while sun deck lunch buffets are a great way to www.jetsetter.hk

Of course every new operation has its teething problems and The Strand Cruise is no different. The itinerary, which traces the most popular tourist route in the country, is quite generic, making it ideal for first timers to Myanmar or for those looking to relax rather than temple hop but not for travellers looking to truly delve into the destination. A little miscommunication means elements of that same itinerary never take place, including our own balloon ride over Bagan and an early morning alms ceremony with local monks that many in our group were looking forward to. However, the ship’s beautiful design, the attention to detail of its décor, and the Strand Cruise’s hard-working crew, who are happy to go above and beyond for every passenger, will ensure it won’t be long until it’s an icon in its own right.

Bagan to Mandalay over four nights from US$1,976 per person. www.thestrandcruise.com

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VILLA LIVING

QUEEN OF

THE COAST

The Beach Villas at acclaimed Langkawi retreat The Datai combine privacy and intelligent luxury in equal measure, discovers Nick Walton

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t’s early morning and I’m standing alone on a pristine strip of white sand beach. Before me the tranquil Andaman Sea winds its way around a clutch of forested islands before galloping towards the Indian Ocean; behind towering peaks emerge from the ancient rainforest. It’s blissfully silent save for the wash of waves upon the sand and the morning gossip of tropical birds. Despite only being an hour’s flight from the Malaysian capital, at The Datai it’s possible to feel like the only person in the world.

The Datai, located on Langkawi’s northwest coast, is one of those beautifully-established, www.jetsetter.hk

nothing-to-prove-to-anyone resorts beloved by the well-heeled and well-travelled. There are no gimmicks, no DJs, no mixologists, no fluro-hued stick-it notes, no beach parties, and no crowds. Nature permeates every aspect of the hotel, from the monkeys that entertain sundowner sipping guests, to the leopards occasionally spied on the golf course. The Datai’s architecture and its sustainable ethos help it slip into its stunning natural environment effortlessly.

Whispered among confidants, and coveted by those in the know, The Datai has been Langkawi’s luxury hallmark since it opened on the island’s most idyllic beach in 1993.

Designed by acclaimed architect Kerry Hill in collaboration with interior architect Didier Lefort of Didier Lefort Architects (and later beautifully revived by award-winning Indonesian designer Jaya Ibrahim), the resort is elegant and unashamedly luxurious without being ostentatious, and has maintained its grand dame status under the direction of acclaimed general manager Arnaud Girodon.

From the lobby, with its koi ponds, piano bar, and stunning sea views, the resort terraces down, through wings of elegantly-appointed canopy rooms, towards the beach, where the coveted Beach Villas are secluded in a resort-within-a-resort.

While the resort has accommodation for everyone, from 54 guest rooms and 16 suites to 40 villas, you could be forgiven for never wanting to stray from your luxurious one or two-bedroom Beach Villa hideaway. Ringed by high fences and wreathed by tropical gardens, each villa boasts levels of privacy rarely encountered in newer resorts. There’s a stand-alone living room with complimentary minibar, dining table, and lounges set around an entertainment suite. Beyond the sizable private plunge pool and sun loungers is a path to the beach. From the king-sized bed in the main villa, with its cathedral-like bathroom and deep soak tub, walk-in wardrobe, and outdoor and indoor showers, it’s possible to see the Tarutao Islands which shelter Datai Bay, named by Nat Geo as one of the world’s top 10 beaches. In keeping with the resort’s Old School charm Beach Villas come with a dedicated butler at your beck and call.

At breakfast in the poolside Dining Room, The Datai’s cult status is confirmed;

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eavesdropping shamelessly, I hear couples discussing over Malay-inspired egg dishes and detox shakes how they plan to spend the first of their 20 days at the resort. Two others

from the United Kingdom calculate how many times they’ve visited and lose count after 30.

Of course, if you can pry yourself from your Villa, there’s plenty to do, whether you’re staying for a weekend or a month. A must are the nature walks into the 10 million year old rainforest hosted by island nature guru Irshad Mobarak. The complimentary morning and evening walks delve into the flora and fauna of Langkawi, with a focus on the many exotic residents of The Datai, including rare hornbills and troops of monkeys. Alternatively enter the jungle with a local medicine man to learn about holistic healing along a 500 metre trail that ends at a jungle stream.

Another true drawcard for the resort is its adjacent Ernie Els-designed 18-hole championship golf course. Named world’s best at the inaugural World Golf Awards in 2014, the course winds its way through mountain valleys before arriving at a dramatic coastline. The resort’s spa, home to acclaimed treatments like the Tongku Batu hot stone ritual, is due to be rebuilt but promises to retain its intimate, luxurious ambiance.

Finally, once you’ve had your fill of romantic pool-side dining in your villa, venture out to visit the recently refurbished Gulai House, home to delicious and inspiring traditional Malay cuisine, served in a modern rendition of a stilted home. Iconic Malay dishes like Rendang Udang Galah Perak and Urap Sayuran Desa are executed with fine-dining precision by executive chef Richard Millar and his team. www.thedatai.com.my www.jetsetter.hk

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HOTELIER

CAPTAIN THE WORLD

A notable polo player, real estate developer, and now hotelier, Satinder Garcha’s first foray into hospitality is an artistic, chic boutique hotel that offers discerning travellers to Singapore a journey for the senses. By Crystal Leung

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orn in India and schooled at a military-boarding school in the foothills of the Himalayas, Garcha recalls his childhood as a tough experience that gave him the right mindset and skills to face his future. This January, he ventured into the hospitality world with the opening of Hotel Vagabond, an experiencedriven boutique hotel on Syed Alwi Road in Little India.

Having graduated with a degree in computer science, Garcha founded technology services company People.com in Silicon Valley in 1995.

After cashing out he entered Singapore’s real estate market but quickly realised that building homes couldn’t satisfy his wants and he set his mind to dip his toes into the vibrant hospitality industry.

HOTELIER 81 where they can get recognised by name, have a special sense of belonging, and feel the warmth of their own home.” He named it Hotel Vagabond.

One would be forgiven for thinking they’d run headlong into a theatre or an art museum when entering the Vagabond Salon – the soul of the hotel – which is dressed in red velvet with a variety of captivating paintings and photographs gracing its walls. “I want this place to be theatrical, as the salon is about theatre, conversation, and performance.”

The Salon also hosts modern Australian restaurant 5th Quarter in a partnership with hotelier Loh Lik Peng and award-winning chef Andrew Nocente.

“I am tired of spending so much time and effort in creating a building, only to never enter again,” says Garcha. “With hotels, the real business starts once it’s built. It’s not only about the building, but how you define a brand and how you create a hospitality experience.

It sounds cliché but a hotel never sleeps; it operates 24 hours, 365 days a year and it has a life of its own. It is constantly going on.”

In keeping with this sense of performance, Hotel Vagabond will host the first Artist in Residence Program in the country. “I want the hotel to be interactive and offer more layers than a ‘normal’ hotel,” says Garcha. New York-based DJ Captain Planet, aka Charlie B. Wilder, and versatile multimedia artist Julia Calfee were the first artists to check in and will be followed by talented souls like awardwinning Pakistan author Mohsin Hamid, who will entertain and mingle with guests during nightly cocktail hours.

Garcha’s namesake company - Garcha Hotels – has converted a 1950 Art-Deco building into a luxurious, stylish 42-room boutique hotel, which, according to Garcha “is a place that makes customers feel intimate;

Turning a vintage building into a contemporary luxury hotel is no easy task, but creating a life-size elephant straddling the elevator and putting six golden brass banyan trees in the Vagabond Salon were considered outrageous

and inconceivable. “It was a big risk,” says Garcha. "You never really know what it would look like until you did it. I tried to change my designer’s mind and he said no, this was it, we would just have to figure out how to do it.” Designed by acclaimed French designer Jacques Garcia, the life-size elephant was painstakingly made in France by artist Frank Le Ray, while the solid brass Rhino reception desk took eight months to forge at 15 villages in Rajasthan, India.

“I am mentally busier than physically. When I have a concept, I will get the right people to do the job,” Garcha says. His great leadership skills and faith in his staff grants him time to pursue his passion for polo. Captaining the Singapore national team to a silver medal at the Southeast Asian Games in 2007, Garcha now has a three goal handicap and spends four months of the year playing.

A man of many passions, Garcha has also recently completed a documentary designed to dispel misconceptions about his religion, Sikhism. “You have to enjoy what you’re doing and give it your best shot. Things are obviously not easy, but you should never give in.” www.hotelvagabondsingapore.com www.jetsetter.hk

82

TURNING LEFT

Still

Flying High CATHAY PACIFIC CX251 HONG KONG - LONDON HEATHROW

Nick Walton finds

consistency and experience trump all else on a recent business class flight to London.

Check In

to reach iPod, USB and AC power sockets, two personal lamps and easy I checked in online 24 hours before my flight, which allowed me to three-button recline configurations. The StudioCX entertainment system allocate my window seat on the assigned Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. is accessed via a 15.4-inch personal monitor.

I dropped my bags off at the check in counters at Hong Kong Station approximately seven hours before my flight. En-route to the airport later Dining that night Cathay Pacific advised me by text message that the flight had Approximately 40 minutes after takeoff the crew started a light supper service that consisted of grissini and savoury dips, followed by a choice been delayed by 40 minutes. of fried fresh water garoupa with soya sauce and steamed jasmine rice; or grilled lamb chops with parsley risotto. There was also an express The Lounge With my flight originally assigned to Gate 2, I made for The Wing, home option that included lentil harissa soup with grissini; mixed salad with to both First Class and Business Class lounges. The lounge was in hot smoked salmon; and seasonal berries with ginger syrup. I matched rather poor form; at almost capacity, it was lifeless and languishing, my garoupa with a glass of Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014, its few wait staff walking like zombies with dragging feet, its single followed by a nip of Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2009 before finally bartender beyond disinterested. However the signature Noodle Bar pressing a button, unravelling my blanket and falling sound asleep. was doing a roaring trade.

Boarding

Two hours out from London we were offered breakfast: a fresh fruit smoothie, and Greek yoghurt and cherry compote with granola was followed by a choice of cheddar cheese and caramalised onion omelet; Hong Kong-style dim sum; or congee with shredded chicken. The dim sum was a great lighter option even if it lacked the texture of fresh dim sum in Hong Kong.

With the late hour of the delayed flight, passengers at the gate were listless and irritable but Cathay staff handled the four-class boarding onto the 275-seat 777-300ER with finesse. The 777 features the airline’s newest generation business class across two cabins and 53 seats.

Crew greeted passengers with hot towels, bottles of Evian and glasses of Billecart-Salmon Brut champagne, and, noticeably, maintained the Service service when the pilot acknowledged further delays. They also handed Cathay Pacific’s crew may have been getting a bad rap of late, especially out the airline’s new amenity kits, which include Jurlique products in a in Hong Kong, but continue to be among the best in the aviation world.

Young, infinitely patient and gracious under fire, the crew on my flight Seventy Eight Percent wash bag. performed their many tasks with a professional efficiency that is more ingrained through training and practice than through inherent hospitality The Seat The newest generation of the Cathay Pacific long-haul business class – meal service certainly exhibited less flare than days past but whenever product remains one of my favourites, combining great privacy with you pressed the call button someone attended to you within seconds. practicality in a user-friendly herringbone configuration. A comfortable seat with a large, easily accessible tray makes this a great desk in the HongKong-London business class from HK$60,550 (US$7,808) per skies, but on these long-haul night flights it’s more important to get a person. www.cathaypacific.com good night’s sleep and that’s when the lie-flat bed, at over two-metres Note: The author travelled on a fully paid-for business class ticket without the airline's knowledge long, is brilliant. The seat also boasts plenty of storage as well as easy www.jetsetter.hk

84

TURNING LEFT

EIGHTY YEARS STRONG In 1936, when Imperial Airways launched flights from London to Hong Kong, the journey took a week.

Eighty years later travellers can fly the route in 12 hours with Imperial’s modern incarnation, British Airways, aboard one of the world’s most sophisticated aircraft. By Nick Walton Arrival

plastic privacy screen is activated). However,

dessert, instead opting for a selection of Stilton

A runway closure earlier in the day and peak

my main deck window seat offers more privacy

and Somerset camembert cheeses with fig

hours at Heathrow’s Terminal 5 meant long

than those on the aisle and with nothing but a

relish, matched with a spot more champagne

delays at the Club World check-in, as well as at

bulkhead ahead, there were no other passengers

and an episode of Absolutely Fabulous on the

the ‘fast track’ security line, where staff seemed

to step over.

surprisingly small 12-inch personal monitor (Emirates, Air France and Korean Air all offer 15-

overwhelmed. British Airways’ South lounge was

inch monitors in business on the A380).

also at capacity. Fortunately we didn’t have long

A smiling cabin attendant named Tina served

to wait until boarding the Airbus A380 at Satellite

glasses of Taittinger Brut champagne and

Concourse C.

dished out dinner menus. Unfortunately there

After contorting myself into PJs in the economy-

was nowhere to put the glass of champagne as

sized bathroom, I converted my seat into a

The Seat

I read the menu so it, and a cloth bag amenity

supremely comfortable 6ft-long lie-flat bed

British Airways do a lot of strange things with

kit with products by Elemis, went into the small

by pulling down an ottoman seat bolted to the

their A380, including scattering Club World

storage draw at the seat base. As charming

bulkhead. The only problem with the bed is it

business class and World Traveller economy

as crew were, they still took the shortcut and

prohibits access to the only in-seat storage and I

class seating across both upper and main decks.

passed menus, drinks and the kit across my

worried my phone, connected to both earphones

Business class seats on the upper deck, which

neighbor’s seat and through the gap left by the

and a USB charging cable, would be swallowed

is quieter, more intimate, has less seats, has

open privacy screen, rather than from the front

up by my seat. Crew handed out bottles of water

better storage, and has far larger bathrooms,

of the seat, forcing my neighbour to wiggle out of

but again, there was nowhere to put them. As it

are understandably snapped up quickly, leaving

the way each time, as I had on my previous flight.

was afternoon in Hong Kong as we approached

an obvious experience disparity. I’ll admit I’m

I skipped the ‘breakfast’ offering.

also no fan of British Airways’ ‘yin and yang’

Dining

seat configuration (2-4-2 downstairs and 2-3-2

British Airways has always taken pride in the

upstairs), which has aisle seats facing forward

quality of their meals – what they refer to as

and middle and window seats facing backwards,

Height Cuisine – and this flight was no exception.

clearly to allow room for 97 business class seats

The dinner service began 90 minutes after takeoff

(in comparison Emirates has 76 on its A380s,

with hazelnut and herb-crusted Fivemiletown

Air France 80 and Qantas 72). These seats are

Dairy goat’s cheese with celeriac, kohirabi,

completely lacking in ergonomics; unless you

rosemary compressed apple and a pomegranate

have an upper deck window seat, there is very

anise dressing; followed by a seared British beef

little storage space and nowhere to put drinks

fillet with roasted new potatoes, onion soubise,

or phones unless you deploy the dining tray.

carrots and a bourguignonne sauce. Both were

Then there’s the uncomfortable proximity of an

beautifully presented, perfectly proportioned

opposite-facing passenger (at least until the

and, finally, served from the seat front. I skipped

www.jetsetter.hk

Summary British Airways’ crew are charming and its culinary offering is on par with any other leading airline but a clumsy seat design and an ambitious configuration do make it harder to relax, be served, and reach those little inflight essentials on long-haul flights.

London-Hong

Kong

in

Club

World

from

Hk$61,000 (US$7,860) per person. www.ba.com Note: the author travelled as a guest of British Airways

LIFESTYLE

HISTORY REPEATS BAO BEI OPENS IN HONG KONG

CALIFORNIA SOUL PREETI MISTRY

SPIRITS

PASS THE PISCO THE BITE: DANISH FAVOURITES

BEAUTY TRAVEL: SPARKLING EYES

WINE: SPRING SURPRISES

86

FOOD ADVENTURES

www.jetsetter.hk

FOOD ADVENTURES 87

www.jetsetter.hk

88

CHEF PROFILE

CALIFORNIA S O U L Reality television chef turned successful restauranteur Preeti Mistry taps into the many culinary influences of her childhood as she opens the first sibling of acclaimed Oakland institution Juhu Beach Club, in central Hong Kong. By

Nick Walton

www.jetsetter.hk

CHEF PROFILE 89

You’re of Indian decent, and born in London but grew up in the US – which side of the Atlantic does your culinary style lean?

I would say my biggest influences are California and Indian cuisine. My food is market driven, with a focus on the best quality ingredients we can find for a dish. I grew up eating Indian cuisine so that is part of my DNA; I crave the flavours and find a lot of ease in playing with different spices. For me London is a place I will always consider home; I did my formal culinary training there and grew up eating beans on toast and jacket potatoes. Different dishes bring out heavier leanings; it’s what the dish calls for

I don’t think I really prepared myself enough.

I kind of just showed up and thought I’ll cook some things. While I have a few friends from the show overall I found the competitive environment to be unappealing to me. I’m not really a competitive person. I don’t think I’m better than everyone; I just want to cook and make people happy. I don’t think a mental model like that is helpful on a show that intense.

consistent. Once we are solid with the core menu we will start adding more seasonal changes from the market. Currently, we are using fruit from the market that is in season in Hong Kong for the Bhel Salad and our house-made fruit chutneys. I am trying to find a balance between using ingredients that are familiar to people and also giving them something new and different.

Why Hong Kong? What have been You were chastised on and after the biggest hurdles? the show for your final dish, the My wife has travelled here for work quite judge’s opinion of which lead to your a bit and we have friends who moved here elimination. Commentators like Chris about three years ago. It’s a pretty amazing Matyszczyk said you were “shirking city with so much to discover. I think our food really resonate with Hong Kongers; it’s organically. criticism”. What do you think of that will informed by my background of being from dish all these years later, and how do a lot of different places and I think that is Where does your passion for Indian you deal with criticism? something that Hong Kongers really get. It’s street food stem from?

Editing is a silly thing. That’s not really what a cosmopolitan city and so many people have Street food to me is all about all of those yummy dishes your parents didn’t let you eat growing up. It’s like the funnel cake and corn dogs of India and I remember eating and even smelling all of those yummy foods as a child; I craved them. They were different (and more exciting) than the rice, dahl, vada pavs, samosas and bhel puri that we got at home.

I think we are all drawn to simple but robust flavours that are often associated with the street foods of all cultures.

What is one golden rule that’s stayed with you since your time at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Academy in London?

We had a lot of students that would constantly ask the chef “how long?” meaning how long something has to roast, steam, or boil, and he would always say, “How long is a piece of string? As long as you need it to be”. For me there are no hard and fast rules; you cook something until it’s right, not what the recipe says.

happened. And it doesn’t really matter. It was so long ago…it’s kind of irrelevant.

I know what it is to put yourself out there; inevitably people are going to offer their

Street food to me is all about all of those yummy dishes your parents didn’t let you eat growing up. opinions and criticism. That is part of being a chef and restaurateur. Honestly, I am my biggest critic and nothing is ever right in my head or it can always be better. You have to be open to people’s opinions but then if you feel strongly about something I think you have to just believe in yourself and keep doing what you are doing.

You were a contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef in the US – what’s the reality How will your new Juhu Beach behind these television cooking Club in Hong Kong differ from the shows and what did you take away Oakland original? from the competition? Are people Well, the design by Candace Campos, while really as nasty to each other as they carrying a similar thread of our Oakland restaurant, is definitely a bit more modern. are portrayed?

The menu is quite similar to the one in I can’t say my experience was very positive.

But you get what you put into something and

California; we have been working hard to source the right ingredients to keep the food

diverse international influences in their lives and that is very much the place from which our cuisine is born.

Staffing is an issue worldwide. I think putting together the opening crew from halfway around the world was a challenge but we are slowly getting there and building a fantastic team.

You’re an openly gay, happily married chef putting a contemporary twist on the dishes of a famously conservative culture. Do you feel you’re living with a paradox?

There are famously conservative elements of all cultures. Just look at the Republican Party in the US right now. I feel like I love that I can live in a world where I can be who I am and that I have that privilege.

What’s one dish we can’t miss on the menu of Juhu Beach Club Hong Kong?

The Manchurian Cauliflower is hands down the most popular dish. Anthony Bourdain called it my “Stairway to Heaven”. It’s a mixture of cauliflower, carrots and onions marinated in an intense spice blend and then fried crispy and tossed with our housemade sweet and sour sauce. It’s inspired by an Indian Chinese dish that is common in a lot of Chinese restaurants in India. It’s addictively delicious. www.jetsetter.hk

90

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Down Underground Hong Kong’s first supper club concept marries the city's past and present to perfection. B y Nick Walton

T

here’s something endearing about Bao Bei, the newest eatery to open on (or actually below) Central Hong Kong’s Wyndham Street. Styled as a chic subterranean supper club, with a kitchen that’s open late, and a resident DJ, this elegant hideaway taps into Hong Kong’s nostalgic sensibilities with honest, authentic, yet still innovative comfort food, served amidst welcoming, low-key interiors.

We arrive relatively early for Bao Bei, at 7pm (the kitchen is open till 1am) and yet the pint-sized dining room is already packed and the standalone bar is filling up. More a lounge that does good food than a restaurant that does good drinks, Bao Bei has a Made in Hong Kong mantra, that fuses ingredients and influences from both east and west, combining them with fun and entertaining throw backs to the city’s culinary traditions. The result is an eatery that doesn’t take itself too seriously, which is rather refreshing.

We take a corner booth and order a round of cocktails; looking around the room I see the Childhood Memory, a heady blend of white rum, Baileys and Vita-Soy, a Hong Kong-staple, is very popular, mainly because it’s served in a vintage Vita-Soy glass bottle. Of the 12 signature cocktails, my Typhoon No. 10, a classic cocktail given a modern twist thanks to Tanqueray No. 10 gin, Osmanthus honey, orange and lemon juice, and egg white, is refreshing and zesty, while the Chinese Negroni, with chamomile Long Ngan gin, suze bitters, and goji berryinfused bianco vermouth, is a palate-load of flavours and contrasts.

We start with some of Bao Bei’s finger-friendly tapas-esque dishes, which include chicken ‘lollipop’ wings with Sichuan sauce; Hainan chicken rice crisps with Chinese yam and ginger caviar; and delicate tuna tartare served with fried youtiao (Chinese dough), marinated plum and miso. You could be forgiven for never graduating beyond the great selection of baos, from the golden fish baowich with salted egg, and pickled cucumber; and the Kobe pork belly bao with Portobello mushroom and apricot salsa; to the addictive Wagyu beef baoger with kabayaki black fungus and onion aioli. The share platter makes it even easier to simply sip and graze to your heart’s delight.

For something a little more involved, the Mapo Tofu fries is a fun and utterly delicious take on the spicy original; while the Taiwanese braised pork risotto with mushroom and truffle sauce is an ideal way to chase away the last of spring’s chilly nights. For those with a sweet tooth, you can’t go past the banana Nutella crepe with marshmallow and chocolate sauce.

All drinks and dishes come hot and fast, further cementing Bao Bei’s position as a lounge bar rather than a conventional restaurant. Tables nearby play traditional Chinese drinking games and there's talk of Karaoke in the future. The result is a chilled out vibe that’s as much Hong Kong’s past as it is its future.

Shop 1, B1/F, Carfield Commercial Building, 77 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong; www.baobeihk.com

www.jetsetter.hk

92

TOP TABLES Perched on the tranquil shores of Hong Kong’s Repulse Bay, The Ocean is the newest beachfront destination in which to celebrate the wonders of the deep blue sea. Spanning an area of 10,000sqft, the expansive restaurant features stunning panoramic views of the bay, built-in aquarium walls housing hundreds of jellyfish, comfy curving booths, three private VIP rooms, and a selection of sea-inspired degustation menus prepared by celebrated chef Agustin Balbi. Highlights include Hokkaido scallops crudo with seasonal vegetables and curry de madras vinaigrette; and mushroom tortellini with lobster and maitake bisque. www.theocean.hk

Fresh Taste of Spring

From French fine dining to seafood indulgences, these are the hottest tables across the region this season.

Taking inspiration from traditional French bistros, Swire Restaurants has opened its second Plat du Jour in Hong Kong. Located on the lower level of Pacific Place, the 160-seat all-day dining restaurant offers a plethora of much-loved French dishes in a contemporary setting. Kick off with signature starters like escargot bourguignon (snails in garlic and herb butter), lobster bisque, and poached tuna niçoise, before moving on to hearty mains such as beef bourguignon - premium grade US beef braised in Pinot Noir and served with carrots, baby onions, mushrooms and potato purée. Leave room for classic desserts like apple tarte tatin, chocolate fondant, and the iconic baked Alaska. www.swirerestaurants.com

Situated in the newly-unveiled Garden Wing of Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, one of the city’s most iconic restaurants, Le Normandie, has returned to offer a modern take on French fine dining, served amidst elegant, sophisticated interiors, and complimented by breathtaking views over the Chao Phraya River. Blending the freshest locally sourced ingredients from the Royal Projects farms with the best produce from the Normandy and Brittany regions in France, acclaimed chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier and his team dish up a range of exquisite delicacies, including marbled foie gras with prune and toasted brioche; chateaubriand of beef from Salers with truffle sauce; and parmentier of beef cheek with winter truffle, continuing a gourmet tradition stretching back 40 years. www.mandarinoriental.com www.jetsetter.hk

93

TOP TABLES

Resembling a retro Southern salon, Wan Chai newbie

Moonshine & The Po’Boys takes its culinary inspiration from New Orleans. The Hong Kong restaurant’s chalkboard-style murals and picnic tables create a laid-back American-style atmosphere while the leather bar stools, rustic mason jars and innovative cocktail menu lend casual touches of Southern charm.

Be sure to try their classic Louisiana fare, including fried chicken; po’boys (traditional submarine sandwiches); seafood chowder; and the wholesome Cajun seafood boil. Perfect for sharing, the family-style bucket comes with Alaskan king crab legs, Spanish scarlet prawns, as well as a variety of mussels, clams and other scrumptious seafood options. www.moonshinepoboys.hk

Diners with a sweet tooth will love Cobo House by 2am:dessertbar, a recently-opened collaboration with awardwinning pastry chef Janice Wong. Tucked away in the Hong Kong Island neighbourhood of Shek Tong Tsui, this progressive restaurant and desert bar features a live dessert station at which chefs conjure up à la minute confectionery. Menu highlights include Chocolate H2O, a piece of edible art inspired by the San Sebastián coast; and Cassis Plum, a blackcurrant bombe served with elderflower yogurt foam, plum liqueur and yuzu. www.cobohouse.com

Award-winning

chef

Alan

Wong

has

instilled a taste of Hawaii into the heart of Shanghai, with the opening of his namesake restaurant. Housed in The Portman Ritz Carlton Hotel, Alan Wong’s Shanghai boasts an intimate dining room panelled in natural timbers and a raw bar with a soothing Hawaiian sunset backdrop.

In addition to a bounty of seafood options, the extensive menu also offers a variety of poke – bite-sized raw fish tossed in seasoning – and the classic kalua pig.

Complete your Hawaiian culinary journey with a Mai Tai cocktail, made of housemade Falernum, fresh lime, pineapple and a dash of rum. www.alanwongs.com www.jetsetter.hk

94

MINIBAR

FUN IN THE SUN It won’t be long until summer is upon us and that means long cool drinks to beat the heat. A perfect solution for that

Sipsmith Damson Vodka,

is the brand’s own sipping vodka, steeped in fresh English damsons to create a wonderfully sweet and floral spirit at 28 percent ABV. Fans of sloe gin will love this deep ruby drop, with smacks of plummy notes, fresh summer fruits and a silky soft mouthfeel that lends itself to loads of ice and even lashings of sparkling wine, champagne (a Damson Royale) or soda.

Look out for touches of cherry and spicy cinnamon on the palate, followed by a buttery smooth finish, with little hints that will have you reaching for more. www.sipsmith.com

Clean, fresh and modern, Jensen’s Gin is an unashamedly contemporary gin

For a truly luxurious expression of the London Dry Gin distilling renaissance, look

that still has its roots in London’s distilling heritage. Founded by Christian Jensen, the creative Danish character behind Bermondsey Gin, this elegant spirit is also distilled in Bermondsey, London, in small batches that pay homage to the vintage gins of distilleries past. Using traditional London Dry Gin botanicals to an original recipe, Jensen’s is a recreation of the classic gin style, with its delicate floral and citrus notes, that gave birth to the dry martini, as well as a host of other timeless concoctions.

Produced by Dr Anne Brock, one of the few female gin distillers, Jensen’s lends itself to robust gin cocktails, while its sibling Old Tom is for truly nostalgic connoisseurs.

a handcrafted out for new spirit from Cambridgeshire that upholds the proud British legacy of distilling to perfection. Boasting a beautifullycurated collection of nine botanicals, including staples like juniper, coriander and angelica, as well as Szechuan peppers, mandarin zest, rose petals and raspberries, each of which is infused from its natural essence (unlike the liquid flavourings and additives found in many other gins), Givinity is distilled in small batches and presented in a crystal decanter with 11-carat gold printing and topped with a gold-plated stopper. Look out for this savvy new spirit in Europe’s top

www.bermondseygin.com

cocktail bars. www.givinitygin.com

www.jetsetter.hk

Givinity,

MINIBAR 95

FROM DYNAMIC VODKAS TO GINS STEEPED IN HERITAGE, HERE ARE OUR FAVOURITE TIPPLES FOR THE SUMMER MONTHS AHEAD. BY

NICK WALTON

Gin is a delightfully playful and complex spirit that's perfect for drinks across the cocktail spectrum. Ginophiles Sipsmith has created a spirit for true gin connoisseurs

If you haven’t tried Pisco, the young, vivacious South American brandy, then this summer is your perfect opportunity. Small

Alto del Carmen Pisco Reservado is the perfect

batch Chilean

Sipsmith V.J.O.P.

(Very with their Junipery Over Proof) gin. A robust yet surprisingly elegant spirit, VJOP brings the prime ingredient of gin – juniper – to the forefront. Made with the brand’s mainstay gin, but with the juniper dial turned to 11, expect a hefty spirit kick thanks to a 57.7% ABV bottling, with touches of junipery pine and cedarwood and hints of zesty orange on the nose, followed by big juniper notes, plenty of spice and a long dry finish. This is a drink for real gin lovers, and for those looking for a martini or negroni with plenty of nostalgia. www.sipsmith.com

drop for true spirit lovers. With its double distillation in copper stills and triple cold filtration, this silky tipple is made from Muscat grapes from the Huasco, Elqui and Limarí valleys, home to some of the best Muscats in the world. Aged between six and eight months, and bottled at 40 percent ABV, this pure spirit lends itself perfectly to summer cocktails, including Chilean pisco sours, lighter and zestier versions of the Peruvian staple. www.altodelcarmen.cl

Bring a touch of colour and art to your home bar with the striking range from

Lordanov Vodka,

now available in Hong Kong through BEV. With distinctly artistic leanings, each bottle is faced with an eye-catching and beautifully presented skull logo in crystal, with a wide range of colours available. But Iordanov isn’t just good looks. Beyond the sexy design is a spirit produced in one of Germany’s oldest distilleries, which capitalises on its 150 years of experience to create vodka from 100 percent fine wheat and demineralised crystal-clear highlands water. This spirit is then distilled a total of five times to achieve its rich, gentle and aromatic flavor. After the distillation process, Lordanov vodka is further filtered through charcoals to achieve maximum purity. www.veb.hk www.jetsetter.hk

96

SPIRITS

PASS THE PISCO:

PERU’S SPIRITUAL RENAISSANCE

FIVE HUNDREDS YEARS SINCE IT WAS FIRST EXPORTED FROM SOUTHERN PERU, PISCO IS MAKING A COMEBACK, SAYS JOE MORTIMER

E

very spirit gets its moment in the limelight and this year, bartenders in Latin America would have us believe it’s pisco’s time to shine. The grape brandy has been made in Peru for 500 years, but its recognition internationally has been mostly limited to the pisco sour. But change is afoot.

aromatic and non-aromatic grapes makes ‘acholado’; and the finest pisco is ‘mosto verde’, created by interrupting the fermentation process and distilling while there is still sugar present.

Peru’s pisco-making heritage is undergoing an enormous revival, with artisan labels putting out small-batch varieties that are scooping up awards at home and abroad.

As with tequila or rum, different varieties have different characteristics. While clean tasting pisco puro is most commonly used in cocktails, you can only appreciate the sophistication of a mosto verde or the aroma of a pisco acholado by sampling it straight up.

“Like Peruvian food, pisco has become a source of national pride,” says Christian Bravo, owner of the popular Bravo Restobar in Lima. “Today the quality of our liquor, and its versatility in mixology, has made it the favorite of bars and restaurants in Peru.”

“Pisco is one of those fun things like wine where you get to play with different flavours,” says Adam Weintraub, founder of the Museo del Pisco in Cusco, where you can tackle a flight of pisco and learn about the flavours and characteristics of each one.

At his San Isidro nightspot, dozens of piscos are lined up behind a well-lit bar, where smartly dressed bartenders mix up an extensive menu of pisco-based cocktails, including the Chilcano, pisco served with ginger ale and fresh lemon.

“My goal with the Museo was never to open a successful bar in Cusco, it was to open up a didactic learning experience for pisco and bring it to the world.”

Pisco comes in different forms: those made with single grape varietals are called ‘puro’; blending several varietals or mixing www.jetsetter.hk

Peruvian food has already conquered kitchens around the globe; now it seems pisco is poised to enjoy similar success in the cocktail world.

98

WINE

S P R IN G

SURPRISES As the days warm and summer approaches, reach for these elegant Champagnes to toast in the changing seasons. By Nick Walton

Nothing says spring quite like a rosé and acclaimed Champagne house

Veuve Clicquot

knows

how to celebrate with its three new Say it With Clicquot gift sets, the sexiest of which is Scream Your Love, which comes with its own pink-hued megaphone ice bucket. Bright, distinctive and intense, the Veuve Clicquot Rosé is a brilliant example of the house’s savoir-faire in winemaking; look out for the bold predominance of Pinot Noir grapes, offset by the round caress of Pinot Meunier.

For something more subtle Cliquot Message lets you create your own note with sticky letters while Clicq’Call lets you record your own special message, to be played when the box is opened. www.veuve-clicquot.com

Oenophiles will already know the wines of family-owned champagne house Etienne Lefevre, which has produced in Champagne since 1621. The house’s delectable drops, including the Champagne

Etienne Lefevre Grand Cru Carte Blanche

NV Brut, are now available in Hong Kong in limited consignments through fine foods importer Café Vivole. The house brut is a great catch; with its Pinot Noir heavy mix, look for a pale gold hue with traces of pink, a lively yet smooth mouth feel, and a fabulous mixture of summer fruits on the palate, including apples, pears, and plums. Alternatively, for special occasions, look out for the Champagne Etienne Lefevre Cuvee des Ancetres Millesime Grand Cru 2004; limited to only 1,000 bottles, this vintage features ripe fruit and orange blossom mixed with hints of honey in a sensual expression of the champagne art. www.cafe-vivole.com

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100

BEAUTY TRAVEL

Designed to strengthen, repair and uplift,

The Lifting Eye Serum is the latest luxurious formula by La Mer. Engineered with a network of naturally derived ingredients, including red algae, the unique Stretch Matrix Complex creates an interlaced elastic net to help give the eye area a more lifted and contoured appearance while the new Uplifting Ferment – a combination of perennial brown algae, copper-rich blue algae and marine peptides – helps strengthen the skin’s defences. Perfect for layering underneath existing eye treatments, the silky serum penetrates quickly to provide a comforting, tightening effect. www.lamer.com

SPA R K LING

EYES

As the saying goes, “eyes are the windows to the soul”, so it’s essential to keep them luminous and beautiful when exploring the world’s capitals with these indulgent additions. By Crystal Leung

Intensely rich, yet lightweight, the new

Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Transformative Energy Eye Crème by Estee Lauder is an ultra-luxe solution laced with a potent black diamond truffle extract that boasts an astounding ability to promote natural skin vitality. Youthsustaining technologies help support skin cells’ natural longevity and increase skin’s collagen by up to 215 percent. Make the experience more indulgent by massaging the eye area with the luxurious, rotating applicator, made from a cooling golden alloy. www.esteelauder.com

Perfect to carry on the go, the innovative new

Pep-Start Eye Cream

by Clinique brightens and refreshes tired-looking eyes instantly, thanks to a special spherical applicator and a lightweight cream which features a blend of seven peptides that help stimulate natural collagen, diminish fatigue and sallowness and improve skin elasticity. A mix of soothing and energising ingredients, including algae extract, molasses extract and caffeine, help reduce puffiness and combat dark circles, giving you a well-rested look in just a few seconds. www.clinique.com

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Shoe Store Store 路路 Central Central and and Western Western District District Shoe Boutique 75, 1/F, Admiralty Centre Tower 2, 18 Hartcourt Rd, Central andWestern WesternDistrict, District,Hong HongKong Kong Harcourt Rd, Central and 2529 9739 8861 Phone: +852 2136

Fax: +852 2865 6088 Fax: +852 2865 6088

E-mail: E-mail:liiliicouture@yahoo.com.hk liiiliiicouture@yahoo.com.hk

102

WISHLIST

JAVA

JUNKIE Take

entertaining

to

new

levels

with

this

unforgettable coffee set from British designer Tom Dixon. Built in stainless steel with an eye-catching high-gloss copper finish, the eight piece set covers every aspect of the coffee ritual, including a caddy scoop and French press cafetiere, a stovetop pot, milk pan, stackable espresso cups and a gleaming serving tray. There’s even a biscuit tin for those essential digestives. www.tomdixon.net

www.jetsetter.hk

WISHLIST 103

HERE’S

LOOKING AT YOU Leica Sport Optics has teamed up with Hermès to create two limited edition binoculars, perfect for travellers looking for style and performance. The Leica Ultravid 8x32 HD Plus “Edition Hermès” and the Leica Ultravid 10x32 HD Plus “Edition Hermès” pay homage to the 111-year old tradition of Leica Sport Optics, combining traditional, vintage style eyecups with modern, state-of-the-art technology. One of the highlights of these black anodised binoculars is their Hermès swift calfskin leather casing in illustrious ‘Rouge H’. This extremely fine and supple leather is used not only on the body of the binoculars, but also for the shoulder strap included in the set. Each pair also comes with an exclusive handcrafted swift calfskin leather and canvas Hermès bag. In addition to its own unique serial number, each pair also bears one of a series of consecutive limited-edition numbers, making it a truly singular product. www.en.leica-camera.com www.jetsetter.hk

104

WISHLIST

YOUR

GUARDIAN ANGEL We all like to look our best when travelling but that does make us vulnerable to theft on the road. Protect up to six wristwatches, jewelry, cash or important documents with the Guardian by Döttling. A double-walled high-security tube – an in-house development made of multiple components that are almost as hard as a diamond – is built into the plush leather, ensuring drills and saws can’t be used to breach the Guardian. The tube’s polycarbonate casing, made from material used for police shields, also makes the Guardian extremely impact-resistant. A safe door at one end can be opened with a three digit code, while a built in GPS transmitter helps you track your valuables while you’re exploring. € 13,000 www.doettling.com

www.jetsetter.hk

PRIVATE LABEL EUROPEAN TOURS

SMALL GROUP LUXURY JOURNEYS Jetsetter has set an ultra high standard for luxury small group European travel. Jetsetter magazine is now taking reservations for our Private Label Luxury small group European Journeys, delivering the ultimate in superior comfort and impeccable personal service, all while touring some of Europe’s greatest and somewhat lesser known must visit cultural destinations, hotels, restaurants and high end boutiques.

With a maximum of 8 persons in a group, our intimate and personal service will make your stay, in the very best hotels and villas a true once in a lifetime experience. Our team at Jetsetter has access and insider knowledge in delivering unique, private and impressive itineraries. Jetsetter Private Label Tours are backed by the support and expertise of an experienced team of European luxury travel experts.

For further information and details of our Itinery email us at PrivateLabel@Jetsetter.hk or call +852 28557885

106

WATCHES

ODE

TO T HE

SKIES

It’s been 75 years since IWC Schaffhausen first launched its 52-mm Big Pilot’s Watch, at the time the largest wristwatch ever made by the firm. This year the newest incarnation, the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55, eclipses a record set back in 1940.

With a case diameter of 55 millimetres, the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55 is an enormous eye-catcher, and is available in a limited edition of just 100 watches, aimed primarily at collectors and lovers of authentic pilot’s watches. Crafted in titanium in a nod to modern-day possibilities, and subsequently weighing less than 150 grams, the piece features blued hands and the return of the figure ‘9’ – omitted in models after 2002. Taking the place of the ‘12’ is a triangular index with dots on either side, making it pos¬sible to recognize the relative position of the hands and read the time even with a cursory glance in the dark. The original’s seconds hand has been moved to the ‘6 o’clock’ position. The Big Pilot’s Watch 55 features an IWC handwound 98300 calibre movement, protected against magnetic fields by a soft-iron inner case. The cone-shaped crown, which was easier to manipulate with flying gloves, is complimented by a friction clutch to prevent damage during the daily winding ritual. www.iwc.com www.jetsetter.hk

WATCHES 107

TA K E TWO Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled two new takes on its iconic Reverso collection.

In a creative partnership with fashion guru Christian Louboutin and to mark the Reverso’s 85th anniversary, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso by Christian Louboutin is the first in a new collection called Atelier Reverso, which allows watch lovers the chance to create their own custom-designed Reverso wristwatch using a configurator that will be available online and in Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques.

Louboutin’s telltale red leather forms the inside strap of the new piece while a shimmering coloured effect can be found on the exterior. One dial’s Art Deco persona is offset by the other’s shimmering sun-kissed face, framed by a diamond bezel. Based on the Classic Duetto and available in small and medium sizes, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso by Christian Louboutin comes at a time when the Swiss watch brand is consolidating the number of Reverso models from 25 to just 6. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

www.jetsetter.hk

108

WATCHES

Planet Ocean 600M Master Chronometer combines

The ladies

FROM THE

EARTH TO THE MOON

TWO BEAUTIFUL NEW TIME PIECES FROM OMEGA’S MASTER CHRONOMETER COLLECTION CAPTURE THE BEAUTY OF THE OCEANS AND THE HEAVENS ALIKE. In a distinctly more masculine model the new

Speedmaster Moonphase

Chronograph Master Chronometer features the most realistic representation of the moon ever used, thanks to high resolution imagery, a fitting touch for the first timepiece worn on the moon. Adhering to Omega’s exacting new standard of testing, set in late 2015 by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the new Speedmaster model displays perfectly the phases of the moon, with its highly accurate mechanism needing only to be adjusted once a decade. Twin two-handed subdials create a beautifully symmetrical look on the watch’s stunning sun-brushed blue dial, and are complimented by a ceramic bezel and stainless steel case. A revolutionary new 9904 movement is made up of 368 components and marks the start of a whole new era in watchmaking. www.omegawatches.com www.jetsetter.hk

18-karat Sedna gold with rich chocolate ceramic as one of the first ladies’ timepieces to gain the impressive METAS-approved rating. Wearers can admire the new calibre 8801 movement through the sapphire crystal of the 39.5mm caseback, complete with an oscillating weight crafted from Sedan gold, in the first instance in which Sedna material has been used for the Planet Ocean collection. To perfectly complement the soft reddish tone of the metal, OMEGA has created both the dial and bezel from chocolate brown ceramic, with Ceragold technology used to create the numbers and new minute markers of the diving scale.

110

LIGHT &

LUGGAGE

PROTECTIVE A balance between performance and style, the Road Warrior Carry-on Suitcase is an innovative solution designed to make suit packing a breeze.

By Crystal Leung

Sick of carrying a bulky suit bag on those regional runs? One of London’s leading luggage brands, LAT_56, has launched the revolutionary Road Warrior Carry-on Suitcase, which features the innovative, patented SPS Suit Packing System, allowing travellers to roll up their suits without worrying about wrinkles. Made from military-spec moulded EVA foam and ballistic nylon, the stylish black case is durable yet lightweight; at 55cm x 37cm x 20cm, it only weighs 3.1kg. The interior features ample pockets and pouches for your accessories as well as a detachable, waterproof sealed shoe and laundry bag that ensures your clothing stays fresh and clean. There’s a sleek retractable handle as well as a discreet quick access pocket at the back, perfect for stashing your 100ml toiletries in preparation for airport security. Thanks to two durable signature performance wheels, inspired by longboarding, this case is designed to keep up with any on-thego schedule. www.lat56.com www.jetsetter.hk

STYLE 111

COOL CLASSIC

Headed to the ski fields of New Zealand or the hiking trails of Patagonia? You’ll need the right jacket.

The Passage Jacket by Aether Apparel is designed with cold climates in mind. Made with a threelayer melange hard-shell with a subtle heather that’s impervious to wind and snow, this jacket ensures you look and feel toasty no matter how cold the temperature. The jacket features sophisticated box quilting, a stand collar and an adjustable and detachable hood while finger loops on the front placket enable the wearer to easily snap the jacket together with gloves on. Storage includes a hidden Napoleon pocket, zippered hand pockets, and zippered gussets at the cuffs while a dedicated interior media pocket also includes an audio valve for headphones. Outfitted with 200-gram PrimaLoft® Gold—which has the highest warmth-to-weight ratio of any synthetic insulation—the Passage is incredibly warm and yet still lightweight with a slim, modern silhouette. www.aetherapparel.com www.jetsetter.hk

112

THE BITE

DANIS H FAVOURITES

HOME TO 15 MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS, COPENHAGEN IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL OF SCANDINAVIA, BUT ALSO OFFERS AN ARRAY OF HUMBLE DELICACIES THAT PROMISE AN AUTHENTIC CULINARY JOURNEY THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANK. BY

F

CRYSTAL LEUNG

or a popular lunch option in

including curried herring with apple compote;

Another Danish staple you can’t miss is

Copenhagen, you can’t go pass

and pear braised pork jaw with quince puree.

grød porridge - one of the oldest types of

the iconic smørrebrød (open-

Nordic foods - and there is no better place

faced sandwich), which usually

Travellers on the move should look out for a

to savour this hearty dish than its namesake

consists of a piece of buttered

pølsevogn (sausage wagon) home to the

eatery Grød (Jægersborggade 50, kld. Tv; +45

rye bread heaped with a variety of toppings,

ultimate Danish comfort snack, the hotdog.

5058 5579; http://groed.com), the city’s first

such as pickled herrings, smoked salmon, and

Stay health-consious with an organic hotdog

porridge-only café. Thanks to its amazing

boiled eggs. For a traditional pick, head over to

at DØP (Købmagergade 52 Ved Rundetårn

medley of innovative porridge flavours, which

Schønnemann (Hauser Plads 16; +45 3312

1150 København K; +45 3020 4025; www.xn-

change each month, the 12-seat café has

0785; www.restaurantschonnemann.dk),

a

-dp-lka.dk), which prides itself on using only

become one of the hottest tables in town. For

139-year-old restaurant famed for its extensive

100 percent organic ingredients and whole

the indecisive, pick the signature oat porridge,

menu of 110 freshly-prepared smørrebrød

grain bread. Opt for the all-time favourite, a

havregrød, topped with homemade dulce de

and hot dishes. If you fancy a more modern

roasted hotdog served with ketchup, mustard,

leche, fresh apple, and roasted almonds. With

twist on this Danish classic, Adam Aamann

remoulade sauce, fried onions and pickles, or

lunch only costing 35 kroner (US$5), you’ll

(Øster Farimagsgade 12; +45 3555 3310;

try the sausage with stewed kale, served with

have more to spend at that coveted table at

www.aamanns.dk) offers innovative toppings

mustard and beetroot.

world-renowned Noma nearby.

www.jetsetter.hk

AUTO 113

PACKING A PUNCH

Maserati dives into the super SUV market, hot on the heels of Bentley and Lamborghini, with the much-anticipated Levante. By Nick Walton

M

aserati is the latest luxury auto marque to blur the lines between sports car and sports utility. Promising to continue the brand's sporting character, the Levante, which was officially unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show this month, represents Maserati's most significant new model in years.

The design of the Levante features clear associations with the Maserati brand and its distinctive Italian character, and takes its cues from the Ghibli, which provided the SUV’s platform: the aggressive front introduces new, tapered headlights separated into two elements, with the upper headlight unit connected to the radiator grille. Maserati's

design signature is clearly visible on the sides: the three iconic air vents on the front wings, the trapezoidal C-pillar with the “Saetta” logo and the large, frameless door windows. The rear is dominated by the very tapered back window and a streamlined shape, both typical of a high-performance sports car.

At a technical level, the Levante's chassis is designed to combine outstanding on-road performance with unrivalled handling, even on very low-grip surfaces, and an excellent off-road performance and ride. Four engine options include the Ghibli S’s twin-turbo, a 3.0-liter V-6 rated at 404 horsepower that’s expected to get this stylish SUV to 100km/ hr in 5.5 seconds; and the range-topping

3.8-liter V8 from the Quattroporte GTS that cranks out 523 horsepower. A Europeancertified diesel version and Maserati’s first ever hybrid model will also be available. It’s expected the Levante, even with the V8, will still be slower than the Porsche Cayenne Turbo S or the BMW X5M but you don’t buy an SUV for street racing.

The new SUV also boasts a high level of content as standard, with all versions featuring sophisticated electronic suspension with controlled damping and air springs; “Q4” intelligent all-wheel drive; and an 8-speed automatic transmission specially calibrated for the new model. www.maserati.com www.jetsetter.hk

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

Rubber Duckie,

You’re the One!

Having travelled around the world for nine years, the highlyanticipated Rubber Duck will make a port of call in Macao, adding a fun element and an extra dose of charm to the heritage city.

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION Macao Science Center

I

t’s been a long journey for an iconic yellowhued character. Since 2007, the famous Rubber Duck by internationally-renowned Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman has been touring the globe, with one mission: to put smiles on the faces of the world. From April

29 to May 27, 2016 the giant bath time friend will find a home in Macao, its sixth destination as part of The Rubber Duck Tour China. Fans of the duck will find him in the sea area between the Macao Science Centre the only science-themed museum in the city and the Kun Iam Ecumenical Centre.

With its origins in Amsterdam, in the Netherlands, the Rubber Duck Project, also known as The Spreading Joy around the World Tour, has brought the oversized feathered friend to over 25 cities across the globe, ranging from Sao Paulo in Brazil, to Osaka in Japan, Sydney in Australia, Pittsburgh in the US, Seoul in South Korea, and of course Hong Kong, where he draw crowds to Tsim Sha Tsui. Making a splash in every city it visits, the one-of-a-kind creation has breathed a new life into the concept and consumption of public art.

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION In a bid to bring contemporary art to China and to initiate a more

the feature of countless selfies, and sparked conversations that

open approach to art and public space in the country, Hofman

transcend race, religion and ethnicity.

debuted The Rubber Duck Tour China in 2014. Following the success of its exposition at Hangzhou’s Xixi Wetland - the first and

“The rubber duck knows no frontiers, it doesn’t discriminate

only national wetland park in China – the Rubber Duck has taken

people and doesn’t have a political connotation,” says Hofman.

up short residences at the Qingdao International Sailing Center,

“The friendly, floating rubber duck has healing properties: it can

Guiyang Future Ark, Nanjing Mochou Lake Park, and Shanghai

relieve mondial tensions as well as define them. The rubber duck

Century Park.

is soft, friendly and suitable for all ages!” The artist also believes that the massive bath toy, which weighs 600kg and towers at 54ft,

Making its grand entrance to Macao within a month’s time, the

can also arouse the childhood memories of busy urban warriors

well-travelled duck is the incarnation of joy and peace; not only

and remind them to enjoy their life and live in the moment.

does it conjure up astonishment, happiness and positivity, but it also brings people from different backgrounds together. With its

Whether visitors to Macao are art enthusiasts or not, they’re

sheer size and humorous appearance, modelled on a child’s bath

guaranteed to be enthralled by the Rubber Duck’s arrival in Macao,

toy, the art installation has overwhelmed crowds worldwide, been

just one of a multitude of culinary and entertainment offerings to be found in this dynamic city.

Kuan Iam Ecumenical Centre

CULTURE 117

PERFORMING

FO R T HE CAME RA

Image Credit: Boris Mikhailov, born 1938; Crimean Snobbism, 1982; Courtesy of the artist and Sprovieri Gallery, London. © Boris Mikhailov

F

Until June 12, 2016 Tate Modern, London

rom serious performance art and portraiture to the advent of the ‘selfie’, what does is it mean to perform for the camera? Performing for the Camera, a mesmerising new exhibition at London’s Tate Modern unveils the relationship between photography and performance across a span of 150 years, with over 500 images - ranging from vintage prints and marketing posters to Instagram pics - by 50 seminal photographers from around the world. Engaging with serious, provocative and sensational topics, as well as humour, improvisation and irony, Performing for the Camera shows how photographs have captured performances of important artists like Yves Klein and Yayoi Kusama, as well as the ground-breaking collaborations between photographers, performers and dancers. It looks at how artists including Francesca Woodman, Erwin Wurm and others have used photography as a stage on which to perform, and how figures from Cindy Sherman and Hannah Wilke to Marcel Duchamp and Samuel Fosso have used photography to explore identity. www.tate.org.uk www.jetsetter.hk

118

TECHNOLOGY

Travellers no longer need to carry their phone charger for their

weekend escapes thanks to the new Xperia X series by Sony

which boasts a battery life of up to two days; an all-new Predictive Hybrid Autofocus, for extra sharp pictures; and a Qualcomm Snapdragon 650 processor for ultra-fast connectivity. Featuring a curved glass display within a rounded, continuous frame, this intelligent series is available in four elegant finishes, including white, graphite black, lime gold, and rose gold. www.sony.com

TENACIOU S

TECH

Blending fine craftsmanship with the latest technology, the new e-Tag by Montblanc is designed to protect

your carry-on luggage against loss or theft. Crafted from European full-grain cowhide, this Bluetooth connected key fob is easy to manage through the

Montblanc iPhone app. If the tag is moved out of your proximity, the connected phone will sound an alarm and the app will navigate you to its last seen location.

Thanks to the safe zones functionality, it is guaranteed that the alarm will not be triggered when you’re at work or home. www.montblanc.com

Small yet powerful, the new DL series of premium compact

cameras by Nikon are ergonomically designed to fit into pockets and backpacks. With three different models the new range combines powerful NIKKOR optics with a large 20.8-megapixel one-inch BSI CMOS sensor to create perfect pictures, especially when shooting in low light. The collection also features high-speed autofocus; a 20 frames-per-second continuous shooting capability; and 4K UHD video recording and thanks to new Nikon SnapBridge connectivity, photo sharing has never been easier. www.nikon.com

www.jetsetter.hk

TECHNOLOGY 119

Boasting the world's fastest autofocus, Sony has added the new

α6300 to its award-winning line-up of light-weight mirrorless

cameras. The new model features a 4D FOCUS system with 425 phase detection AF points that can lock focus on a subject in 0.05 seconds, and offers continuous shooting at 11 frames per second as well as high resolution 4K video recording. The newly developed 24.2 MP APS-C sized Exmor CMOS sensor pairs with a BIONZ X image processing engine to produce outstanding image quality. www.sony.com

FROM ULTRA-LIGHT CAMERAS TO WIRELESS CONNECTIVITY, HERE’S THE CUTTING EDGE TRAVEL-FRIENDLY TECHNOLOGY TRENDING THIS SEASON.

Designed with photography enthusiasts

in mind, the new K10 smartphone by LG boasts a 13MP rear camera and a 5MP

front-facing camera - the most advanced in its class - with the brand’s popular Gesture Shot and Gesture Interval Shot features included. Operating an Android 6.0 Marshmallow system, the K10 features a 5.3-inch HD display, 2GB of RAM, and 36GB of ROM. A glossy pebble backing is complemented by new 2.5D Arc Glass for a smooth and seamless style. www.lg.com

Lovers of the iPad can take their tablet experience to the next level with

the arrival of the iPad Pro. The most powerful iPad ever made, the new

Pro model boasts an epic 12.9-inch Retina display, and a powerful 64-bit A9X chip. Despite being wafer thin, the new iPad Pro is slated to have a

10-hour battery life, while the addition of the Apple Pencil for iPad Pro will make drawing and sketching feel remarkably fluid and natural, making the new model ideal for fine art illustration and detailed 3D design on the go. Apple’s new Smart Keyboard further extends the utility of iPad Pro, offering a full-sized keyboard in a thin, durable design so you can take it anywhere. www.apple.com www.jetsetter.hk

120

LIMELIGHT

COME FLY WITH US

Leading luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen has celebrated the launch of its new Pilot’s Watches collection at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch show in Geneva, Switzerland, with a "Come Fly with Us" gala dinner. International music legend Patti Austin, along with the Pepe Lienhard Big Band, serenaded 800 guests through the mesmerising evening with an exciting mix of jazz and swing, while a troupe of 20 dancers from England took to the stage with choreography inspired by the 1930s. In attendance were superstars of the silver screen, such as actors Chris Evans, Scott Eastwood and Dev Patel, English actress Rosamund Pike and Chinese actress Zhou Xun; Formula One champion Lewis Hamilton; and supermodels Adriana Lima and Karolína Kurková.

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Zhou Xun Scott Eastwood Karolína Kurková Till Bronner & Patti Austin Adriana Lima IWC Schaffhausen CEO Georges Kern and Elyas M'Barek 7. Elsa Zylberstein 8. Dev Patel & Jose Maria Yazpik 9. Rosamund Pike 10. Jessica Kahawaty and Razane Jammal 11. Event venue 12. Marc Forster 13. Lewis Hamilton

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LIMELIGHT 121

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Action during the finals Marco Kutcher Aaron Kwok Iris Lam, Louisa Mak,

Ada Pong & Kelly Fu 5. Albert & Pauline Wong 6. Sally & Matthew Chan 7. The view from the VIP Masters Club 8. Rock & Helen Chen 9. Simon Wong & Winnie Yeung 10. Sherie Legrix 11. Kutscher claims his €250,000 bonus prize

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SHOW JUMPING SPECTACULAR

One of the world’s most prestigious equestrian competitions, the Longines Masters of Hong Kong was recently held at Asia-World Expo and saw Germany’s Marco Kutscher become the first rider to meet the challenge of winning two out of three Longines Grand Prix events, with previous wins in Los Angeles and Paris. During the three-day extravaganza, the city’s high-society gathered at the VIP Masters Club, where they savoured gourmet dishes by Michelin-starred chef Yves Mattagne while watching the enthralling competition. Guests spotted on the red carpet include Longines Ambassador of Elegance Aaron Kwok; Miss Hong Kong 2016 Louisa Mak; actresses Kelly Fu and Winnie Yeung; and Hong Kong’s first professional female jockey Sherie Legrix.

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122

LIMELIGHT

NIGHT OF THE K NI V E S The coveted Asia's 50 Best Restaurants sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, known as the Oscars of the culinary world, were recently held in Bangkok for the first time, with some of Asia’s leading gastronomic talents in attendance. With a glamorous awards event at the W Bangkok followed by an exclusive after party at the adjacent House of Sathorn, the event was an opportunity to showcase the culinary arts of Asia, and to recognise the region’s best restaurants, chefs and owners. Coveted Bangkok restaurant Gaggan took top spot for the second year in a row, with Australian chef David Thompson receiving the Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award and Manila’s Margarita Forés of Cibo and Grace Park named Asia's Best Female Chef 2016.

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1. Bangkok chefs (from left) Tim Butler of Eat Me (No. 23 on the 2016 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List; Gaggan Anand of Gaggan; Prin Polsuk of Nahm (No. 8); and Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club (No. 19).

2. Bangkok chefs including Chef Ton (far left) from Le Du and Prin Polsuk (centre) of Nahm, celebrate at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

3. VIPs gather at the W Bangkok for the awards ceremony 4. David Thompson with Matt Johanson, senior vice-president of Discover Global Network.

5. Culinary icon David Thompson 6. Naree Boonyakiat and Nakul Kavinrat of Bangkok’s The Never Ending 7. Bangkok’s Gaggan Anand of restaurant Gaggan takes the top spot at Asia's 50 Best Restaurant Awards 2016 8. No. 2 ranking chef Yoshihiro Narisawa (left) and Takanori Nakamura, Japan’s representative on The Diners Club World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy.

9. Cocktails mixed by the House on Sathorn staff 10. Ku Dé Ta Bangkok provided the entertainment at the post-awards party

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Images provided by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna