Jetsetter Summer 2016

EXOTIC PLACES

INTERESTING PEOPLE

INTELLIGENT TRAVEL

RAJA A M PAT

IN THE KINGS’ GARDEN

THE QUEEN OF THE SEAS BUENOS AIRES THE DANCE CONTINUES CORNWALL COOL

BEANTOWN BOUTIQUES

MAYFAIR LADY

HAKODATE

W 6

EDITOR'S NOTE elcome to another issue of

JETSETTER, Asia’s leading experiential travel magazine.

PUBLISHER Denis Fahy denis@channel1hk.com

In this issue we discover

travel experiences both daring and indulgent, close to home and far from the beaten path.

MANAGING EDITOR Nick Walton nickwalton@artemiscomms.com

We kick off in style, with a cruise aboard luxury British cruise line Cunard, which is now turning its attention towards Asia to

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Crystal Leung crystal@artemiscomms.com

woo would-be cruisers looking for old school pampering. From there it’s on to a completely different seven seas adventure, as we dive Indonesia’s remote Raja Ampat on the acclaimed Alila Purnama, one of a handful of luxury phinishi-styled charter yachts that delve into some of the best diving grounds on the planet. Joe Mortimer follows his passion for authentic dining to Buenos Aires, where he finds boutique hotels and innovative restaurants galore, before Chiara Terzuolo offers a glimpse of the sleepy Hokkaido fishing port of Hakodate, which is enjoying new-found popularity with the extension of the iconic bullet train network. There’s time for a driving holiday through rustic Cornwall with Gayatri Bhaumik, and a chance to check-in at some of Boston’s coolest boutique digs with Crystal Leung, before we visit London and take a closer look at two British icons: Claridge’s and British Airways, which celebrates 80 years of flying to Hong Kong this year. In our regular Lifestyle section we talk with New Zealand-born chef James Cornwall, who heads up Hong Kong’s most ambitious new dining concept, Seafood Room; meet the imaginative fellows behind Australian craft spirit Mr Black; follow our taste buds on a whirlwind tour of ancient Athens; and slip behind the wheel of the stunning Bentley Continental GT Speed Black Edition. Wherever you’re travelling this summer, and in whatever fashion, we trust JETSETTER will continue to unveil and unearth great travel experiences for every world wanderer.

Safe Travels.

Nick Walton Managing Editor

CONTRIBUTORS

Joe Mortimer is a UK-based travel writer who specialises in luxury and lifestyle.

He has visited 60 countries, stayed in more than 100 highend hotels, and eaten at some of the best restaurants in the world. For this issue, he risks his waistline at Buenos Aires’ coolest boutique hotels and hidden kitchens.

www.jetsetter.hk

Always ready for her next adventure, Gayatri Bhaumik took her first flight at 10 days old and hasn't looked back since.

Currently based in Hong Kong, she contributes travel and lifestyle stories to publications like Jetsetter, Elite Traveler, The Loop, Buro 24/7 Singapore and Vanilla Luxury, and serves as the Travel Columnist for Liv.

As CEO of Platinum Wines and one of the leading experts in the fine wine and spirits industry in Asia, Rickesh Kishnani serves over 3,000 private clients in Hong Kong, Singapore, Mainland China, Malaysia, Vietnam, and Australia. In this issue he talks about the growth in English bubbles.

Chiara Terzuolo is a Tokyo-based travel specialist, writer and ethnomusicologist.

Having lived in 7 different countries and travelled to 20 more, she loves diving deeply into the culture, cuisine and music of her latest destination.

Chiara's particular specialty is Japan, and in this issue she explores the retro city of Hakodate, the new must-visit spot in Hokkaido.

CHIEF SUB EDITOR Philippa Walton pipwalton@gmail.com ART DIRECTOR Don Pierre Riosa don@channel1hk.com TRAVEL INDUSTRY RELATIONSHIP DIRECTOR Tammy Fong tammy@channel1hk.com BEIJING SALES MANAGER Louis Chu louis@channel1hk.com SALES MANAGER Fatima Cameira fatima@channel1hk.com CHIEF REPRESENTATIVE EUROPE Laurence James laurence.james@jetsetter.hk

JETSETTER is registered as a newspaper & periodical.

JETSETTER is published by Channel One Communications JETSETTER is printed by Channel One Communications Suite 402-3, Hong Kong Trade Centre 161-167 Des Voeux Rd Central Hong Kong 616 Corporate Way, Suite 2-5706 Valley Cottage, NY 10989 USA www.jetsetter.hk All rights Reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively for Channel One Communications, their partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the publisher. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source.

Channel One does not make any guarantees to the accuracy of the information contained.

CONTENTS SUMMER 2016

16

Room with a View Arabian Nights

32

Wellness Mountain of Peace

34

The Neighbourhood The Reawakening of Hakodate

38

Cruising Queen of thE Seas

50

Argentina The Dance Continues

62

Indonesia In the Kings’ Garden

PHOTO: Nick Walton

A RARITY IN A WORLD OF PLENTY

CONTENTS SUMMER 2016

72

Hotel Review Mayfair Lady

74

england Cornish Cool

88

chef profile Seafood Room’s James Cornwall

96

Spirits Summer of Joe

112

the bite A Culinary Odyssey

113

Auto power meets poise

PHOTO: Michael S. Nolan

12

DIARY

BoomTown Hampshire, England August 11 – 14, 2016 One of the wildest and most inspiring independent music festivals in the United Kingdom, BoomTown will showcase over 500 artists during a kaleidoscope of music, ranging from folk and punk to hip-hop and electro swing, across nine themed districts. World-beating headliners like New York electric band Fun Lovin’ Criminals and New Zealand’s Fat Freddy’s Drop will share stages with English ska bands Madness and Bad Manners, whilst international favourites such as Spanish band Ojos De Brujo will be featured amongst local talents like Beardyman and Seth Lakeman. www.boomtownfair.co.uk

Where to Stay: Nestled in 25 hectares of beautiful parkland, Lainston House is a charming 17th century country house with 50 elegant and lavishly-appointed guest rooms. Make sure to dine in the award-winning Avenue restaurant, which features a modern British menu laced with local produce. www.lainstonhouse.com

Salzburg Festival Salzburg, Austria July 22 – August 31, 2016

The birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart as well as the setting for world-renowned musical The Sound of Music, Salzburg will welcome travellers from all four corners of the world to enjoy a feast of music, drama and opera. Kicking off with The Exterminating Angel - a world premiere by British composer Thomas Ades - this year’s festival will also feature American popular musical West Side Story, English playwright William Shakespeare’s The Tempest, and the sacred music of the churches of Eastern Christianity. www.salzburgerfestspiele.at

Where to Stay: A unique jewel in the heart of the city, Hotel Schloss Monchstein marries luxurious comfort with world-class facilities and maximum privacy. Don’t forget to take a dip in the infinity pool and indulge yourself at the Mönchstein Spa. www.monchstein.at

Edinburgh Festival Fringe Edinburgh, Scotland August 7 -31, 2016 Established in 1947, the Edinburgh Festival Fringe is the largest arts festival in the world. Ranging from theatre, dance, and comedy to music and art exhibition, this extravaganza will include over 50,000 performances at more than 300 venues across the Scottish capital. Music enthusiasts will love the Chechelele World Music Choir, while those craving a good laugh should not miss the stand-up comedy Jimmy McGhie: Apologia. Leave time for a visit to The Collection, an exhibition showcasing the amazing paintings of Scottish colourist Cara Mckinnon Crawford. www.edfringe.com

Where to Stay: Opulent and artistic, Prestonfield is one of the most sought-after addresses in Edinburgh. This five-star boutique hotel offers only 23 sumptuous guest rooms dressed with locally sourced art and antiques. www.prestonfield.com

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DIARY

Outlook Festival

Pula, Croatia August 31 – September 4, 2016 Held in an abandoned Roman fort in northwestern Croatia, Outlook Festival is a one-of-a-kind music party, celebrating a combo of dub, reggae, grime, drum and bass, and hip-hop. Jamaican reggae artist Damian Marley will headline the opening concert in Pula’s historic amphitheatre, while drum and bass icon Andy C, English rapper Stormzy and American hip-hop king Joey Badass will make sure the party atmosphere is maintained throughout the week. Look out for chances to continue the party at one of the lavish boat soirees on the festival’s peripheral. www.outlookfestival.com

Where to Stay: This festival offers a campsite for revellers, but for those who want to explore the city in style, stay at Hotel Riviera in Pula’s historic centre.

Housed in an impressive neo-baroque building, this elegant hotel is within close proximity to a slew of chic bars and restaurants. www.arenaturist.com

Georgetown Festival Penang, Malaysia July 29 – August 28, 2016

One of Asia’s most diverse and vibrant annual festivals, the month-long Georgetown Festival captivates the Unesco-listed former fort town this summer with over 100 acts from around Asia and beyond. There will be arts, music, dance, traditional opera, theatre, and art exhibitions scattered across the tiny tropical island, with highlights of this year’s lineup including Canadian circus troupe Les 7 doigts de la Main, who performed at the 2012 Academy Awards and opening ceremony of Sochi Olympic Games; award-winning physical dance theatre company Gecko; installations by Dutch scientist Theo Jansen; and traditional Taiwanese Potehi puppetry. Of course Penang is also famous for its culinary scene and there will be visiting food stalls as well as the island’s vibrant night markets, some of the biggest and best in Asia, to explore. www.georgetownfestival.com

Where to Stay: One of the group's flagship resorts, the luxurious Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, with its breathtaking coastal location, lush gardens and spacious guest rooms, is the perfect base from which to explore the rest of the island. www.shangri-la.com

Cheyenne Frontier Days Cheyenne, the United States July 22 – 31, 2016 Every year, Wyoming pays tribute to its Old West roots with the Cheyenne Frontier Days, the world’s largest outdoor rodeo. Widely known as the Daddy of 'em All, this spectacular event also encompasses grand parades, free pancake breakfasts, carnivals, an Old West Museum, and an Indian Village, which hosts authentic American Indian dancing, music and storytelling. After watching a day of roping and riding, travellers can immerse themselves in Frontier Nights; this year’s concerts feature American singers Sam Hunt, Billy Currington and Kenny Chesney, as well as rock band Fall Out Boy. www.cfdrodeo.com

Where to Stay: Perched in the heart of Wyoming's capital city, Staybridge Suites Cheyenne is a convenient retreat from which to embark on a city adventure. Each contemporary suite is equipped with a kitchen, offering a home-away-from-home for discerning travellers. www.ihg.com/staybridge www.jetsetter.hk

16

ROOM WITH A VIEW

A r a bi a n NIGHTS

E

scape to a fantasy land inspired by its captivating landscapes, with a night in the Al Khaimah Tented Pool Villa at the Banyan Tree Al Wadi. One of a series of stunning standalone villas, this regal desert respite takes its inspiration from the Bedouin caravans of the Empty Quarter and offers mesmerising views from its king-sized bed, its opulent bathroom and its expansive sun patio. The resort, the UAE’s first all-pool villa concept, is set in the heart of a 500 hectare nature reserve just a 45 minute drive from Dubai. Ringed by rolling sand dunes and back dropped by the magnificent Al Hajjar Mountains, Banyan Tree Al Wadi is an oasis of tranquillity far from the chaos of the city. Leave time for a spot of pampering at the Banyan Tree Spa, or try your hand at traditional archery and falconry at the nearby beach resort of Banyan Tree Ras Al Khaimah. www.banyantree.com

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ROOM WITH A VIEW 17

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18

INSPIRE

THE MOUNTAIN KINGDOM In a land of snowy peaks and sherpas, yaks and yetis, monasteries and

mantras, where ancient temples, shrines, palaces and monuments offer a glimpse into the past, Nepal's Chitwan National Park is a real jewel.

It’s also home to Meghauli Serai Jungle Lodge by Taj Safaris, the first of the brand’s camps to open outside India. From its prime position nestled on the banks of the Rapti River, Meghauli Serai offers spectacular views from its 13 rooms and 16 independent pool villas (there’s also a sumptuous Rapti Mahal presidential suite if you feel like playing King for the night). The park, which you’ll explore during jeep and elephantback safaris and guided jungle walks, is home to breathtaking wildlife, from great hornbills and pied kingfishers to majestic Royal Bengal tigers, stealthy leopards, wild dogs, shy sloth bears and coveted greater onehorned rhinoceros. During your stay there are opportunities to visit local Tharu villages for lessons in traditional moonshining; to canoe on the Rapti River, or to trek through the awe-inspiring Himalayan foothills.

Afterwards indulge in signature spa treatments or take a dip in an infinity pool overlooking the tranquil flow of the Rapti River. www.taj.com

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INSPIRE 19

Fans of the Maldivian archipeligo will have a new playground to discover with the opening of

Milaidhoo Island in November. A pint-sized island at the heart of the Unesco Biosphere Reserve of Baa Atoll, the new resort will pride itself on its barefoot luxury approach with distinctly Maldivian hospitality at its heart. A 30 minute seaplane from the international airport, Milaidhoo will boast 30 spacious overwater villas and an additional 20 beach villas nested in lush tropical foliage. Each of the 50 villas has been designed by local architect Mohamed Shafeeq and open up 180-degrees to capture the essence of the destination. An adults only concept (children over 9 are welcome), the resort is a great base from which to explore nearby Hanifaru Bay, a marine park known for its seasonal gatherings of manta rays. www.milaidhoo.com

LUXURY COMES IN THREES

THREE BEAUTIFUL RESORTS SET TO OPEN IN THE MALDIVES THIS SUMMER PROMISE UNPARALLELED LUXURY IN THE HEART OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. BY NICK WALTON Opening in November, Hurawalhi Island Maldives is located in the Lhaviyani Atoll, a 30 minute seaplane journey from the capital Male. The first Adults-Only resort in the Maldives, Hurawalhi promises luxury and privacy in equal measure. Home to the latest underwater restaurant in the archipelago, as well as an indulgent Duniye Spa and some of the best diving in the nation, Hurawalhi will be an all-villa resort with romance in mind; we suggest you set up in one of 15 Ocean Sunset Pool Villas, which offer direct lagoon access, expansive living spaces both indoors and outdoors, a private infinity pool, king-sized beds and well-stocked minibars. If you can drag yourself away from your villa you’ll find innovative dining on offer, including one elegant dining room submerged nearly 6m below the lagoon. www.hurawalhi.com Boasting 24 water villas and one island villa with additional island villas to come), Soneva opens its newest Maldivian resort in October. located on the island of Medhufaru, part of an uninhabited five-island cluster in the Noonu Atoll,

Soneva Jani features the best of sustainable luxury. Each sumptuous villa features interior design by Soneva co-founder Eva Shivdasani, a retractable roof in the master bedroom, perfect for evening stargazing, as well as a private pool facing the turquoise lagoon; some villas even feature slides going directly from the top deck into the warm water. Soneva Jani will include all of Soneva’s popular features including a spa, a dive centre, an observatory, a children’s den, an Eco Centro, organic gardens, complimentary cheese, chocolate, ice-cream and charcuterie rooms, and an outdoor ‘silent’ Cinema Paradiso where guests wear Bluetooth headphones so as not to disturb the nesting wildlife. www.soneva.com www.jetsetter.hk

20

INSPIRE

LET THERE BE LIGHT For a truly spectacular take on Australia’s awe-inspiring Outback, head to

luxury tented camp Longitude 131°, a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia, located at the base of Uluru, the iconic Ayers Rock. Here, in the wide open vistas of Australia’s Red Centre, artist Bruce Munro has transformed the night with the latest exhibition of his thrilling solar installation Field of Light, a dazzling display of 50,000 bud-like stems crowned with radiant frosted glass spheres that branch out across the desert floor. First conceived when Munro visited Uluru in 1992, and previously displayed at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum as well as in the US and Mexico, Field of Light is punctuated with pathways through which guests can explore the art installation as part of Longitude 131°’s signature experience programme. The display will light up the night for 12 months from April 1. www.luxurylodgesofaustralia.com.au

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22

INSPIRE

Dive under the waves at the Maldives’ newest underwater restaurant, M6m, which opens next month at the new OZEN by Atmosphere resort. The first underwater restaurant within the South Malé Atoll and the first in the Maldives to be included on an all-inclusive plan, M6m (acronym for 'Minus 6 Meters'), is the result of painstaking planning, conceptualisation and detailed design, with a focus on protecting the environment and the delicate, world-renowned aquatic life of the Maldives. Boasting sleek white furnishings with splashes of colour inspired by the hues of the surrounding lagoon, M6m serves delectable contemporary seafood dishes and will complement the resort’s other fine-dining experiences, which include The Palms, the resort's main restaurant, serving up fresh international cuisine; The Traditions - IndoCeylon, an ambient restaurant in keeping with the resort's South Asian culinary roots; The Traditions – Peking, a favourite with fans of Far-East cuisine; and Joi De Vivre, a stunning poolside bar and pizzeria. www.ozen-maadhoo.com Australia’s most iconic train journey, The Ghan, has created two new off train experiences that will further enhance this awesome Outback adventure. Available until March 2017, the Simpsons Gap Discovery Walk explores the West MacDonnell Ranges, 18km from Alice Springs. A beautiful and mythical destination – local Arrernte Aboriginal people believe the range is home to giant goanna ancestors – Simpsons Gap features more than 40 species of rare and relict plants, including native mulga trees and ancient ghost gums. In addition, the Katherine Outback Experience gives train lovers the chance to meet the special breed of people who call Australia’s Red Centre home. You’ll sit around the camp fire, listen to stories of the ‘Bush’, and sing along with best-selling country music singer Tom Curtain, who started his career as a professional horse wrangler. www.greatsouthernrail.com.au Make for one of Italy’s most beautiful enclaves with the opening this summer of Il Sereno and Villa Pliniana on the banks of Lake Como. Representing both the oldest and newest properties on the lake, the new projects by Sereno Hotels include the contemporary 30-suite Il Sereno, located along 450ft of the Lake’s legendary Eastern shore, surrounded by lush gardens created by botanist Patrick Blanc and boasting dramatic views of the Italian Alps and idyllic small towns.

Featuring a private beach, an infinity pool which flows onto the lake, private transfers via the hotel’s two custom-made Riva boats, and a restaurant by famed London Restaurateur Giuliano Lotto, Il Sereno builds on from the success of the widely loved Le Sereno St. Barths, designed by Christian Liaigre. In addition to the new hotel, the group will also offer single-occupancy at the stunning 16th century Italian palazzo Villa Pliniana, which boasts 19 bedrooms, events halls and vast gardens, and is accessible via speedboat or helicopter transfer. www.lesereno.com www.jetsetter.hk

24

INSPIRE

Diva Digs

Ever dreamed of being a famous recording artist? You just might be able to kick off your career whilst on holiday at the W Bali - Seminyak, which has just unveiled the first ever W Sound Suite, a collaboration between Starwood hotels and Coca-Cola. A private music studio and writer’s room available for both professionals and hotel guests, this sweet sounding suite is the first of a clutch of recording studios planned for W hotels in Hollywood, Barcelona and Seattle. The first W Sound Suite at W Bali offers a stylishly sound-proof space featuring a lounge big enough for a proper entourage. The main mixing room includes professional equipment from industry favourites Native Instruments, Pioneer and Moog, as well as a private vocal booth overlooking a tropical garden. Elements of the studio's aesthetic, envisioned by Josh Held Design, pay tribute to Coca-Cola including the subtle integration of the Coca-Cola red and printed lyrics on the wall. Combine your session with a whimsical menu that includes The Dive, a lobster salad with Osetra caviar and Lanson Brut champagne, and The Pop Princess, a raspberry and rose Bellini matched with tropical fruit and Nitro Bubble Gum sorbet. www.wretreatbali.com

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26

INSPIRE

Train lovers rejoice: Belmond will launch South America’s first luxury sleeper train, the Belmond Andean Explorer, next May in Peru. Catering to just 68 guests in refined, en-suite cabins, the new train will travel along one of the highest rail routes on earth, traversing the Peruvian Andes from Cusco to Lake Titicaca and Arequipa on one and two night journeys. Along the way travellers will take in breathtaking scenery amidst interiors by Inge Moore of The Gallery HBA that take their inspiration from Peru’s hand-woven textile culture, with touches of alpaca wool and Andean slate. Of the four journeys that will be available, we love the Peruvian Highlands, a two-night three-day itinerary that departs from Cusco.

Explore the remote villages and floating islands on Lake Titicaca before travelling on to Arequipa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a chance to visit the vast Colca Canyon, the dramatic realm of the condor, along the way.

Afterwards spoil your taste buds with seasonal menus created by the chefs at Belmond Hotel Monasterio, served in two elegant dining cars, or sip cocktails in the open-air Observation Car. www.belmond.com

If you’re looking for the trip of a lifetime, why not cycle the remote Faroe Islands? Magnetic North Travel has launched new cycling trips to the frozen but spectacular isles, offering avid riders the combination of long, empty roads and rolling hills set against a backdrop of jagged mountains and rugged countryside. The sevennight, self-guided itinerary covers 445 kilometres and tours five of the 18 islands, with visits to Sørvágur, the harbour village of Gjogv; the Faroe Islands’ tallest mountain, Slættaratindur; Viðareiðion on the island of Viðoy, where cyclists pass waterfalls and soaring cliffs; and one of the world's smallest capitals, Tórshavn, named after the Norse god Thor. Priced from GBP945 (US$1,390). www.magneticnorthtravel.com

Thompson Hotels will open their newest urban enclave in Seattle this summer, offering chic guest rooms, innovative dining concepts and stunning views across Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains. Situated in the city centre, near historic Pike’s Place Market, Thompson Seattle features 158 rooms and suites, a signature Scout restaurant helmed by chef Josh Henderson, and The Nest, a spectacular 3,500sqft rooftop bar and lounge. Both Scout and The Nest will highlight the hotel’s versatile tableside service capabilities, creating a more intimate connection between guests and the kitchen. The Nest will serve small shareable plates and cocktails designed to foster social interaction in a communal setting. www. thompsonhotels.com/hotels/thompson-seattle

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28

INTRODUCING

TIBETEAN SPIRIT Offering a captivating and utterly unique take on China’s remote Gansu Province, Norden, a traditional Tibetan camp, has opened in

the Himalayan foothills. Located in a wildflower strewn landscape at 3,200 metre above sea level, Norden marries the timeless tradition of the region’s nomads with touches of the 21st century. Just four Khullu-styled tents, each made from hand-spun yak fiber, and seven traditional log cabins, are scattered along the banks of a gently meandering river. Each boasts a private wooden deck, custom Tibetan furniture, local antiques and Norlha felted carpets, as well as polished wood floors, and European bedding. You’ll stay snug under yak felt while a wood furnace provides heat and an array of solar panels captures power from the sun. After days spent exploring this vast landscape on picnics, guided walks and horseback tours in search of hares, marmots, gazelles and owls, join other guests for a spot of yoga in the meditation pavilion, a session in the Finnish sauna, or for story telling around the bonfire. There’s even time to visit Labrang Tashi Kyil Monastery, the most important Tibetan Buddhist site outside Tibet and home to 1,800 monks. www.nordentravel.com

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INTRODUCING 29

DOWN BY THE SEASIDE THE BEACH

Next time you’re Sydney bound leave the city behind and check in at Bondi Beach’s coolest new enclave. QT Bondi, Nestled hasbeachfront been dubbed the Grand best beach Thailand, Nai to Harn housed in on thewhat former Swiss Hotel,inbrings chicThe luxury onelifts of the Australia’s most iconic coastal luxury benchmark in one favourite One of and the apartments. island’s most communities, with designs by of NicAsia’s Graham acrossplaygrounds.

69 spacious studios Think polished concrete floors, anticipated openings, The Nai Harn is the newest incarnation of the iconic Royal vibrant colours and minimalist Scandinavian-inspired furniture and you start to get the picture. While rooms don’t Phuket Yacht extensive 18-month Thewith retreat actually face theClub, beachwhich – youwent get athrough choice an of atrium or city vistas –renovation. they do come plenty of creature comforts, from features 130 luxurious guest rooms and suites, eachand withinnovative sweepingminibars panoramic viewsto jade-hued bathrooms with deep set balconies, kitchenettes, flatscreen televisions through of showers, the Andaman Seaand (weMalin+Goetz love the Press for Champagne buttons each suite). rain soak tubs amenities.

There’s also a BoseinSoundlink system that wirelessly connects with Southern Thai art the andartsy freeform furniture, roomsapp aredoes connect guests with the to Dressed your smartphone or tablet.

While hotelsculptural is facility-lite, the QTguest Concierge designed with and highentertainment, ceilings and glass facades open theofbedroom, living spaces best local dining ensuring youthat make the up most your beachfront bliss. www.qthotelsandresorts.com and bathroom to the beachfront vistas. Leave time for a spot of pampering at the Nai Narn Spa, and sunset cocktails at the resort’s chic rooftop bar. www.thenaiharn.com

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30

INTRODUCING

WELCOME TO MIAMI Swire has opened its first hotel in the US, with the unveiling of East Miami, a 352-room urban retreat located at the heart of the Brickell district. East Miami’s guest rooms and suites, the product of awardwinning Miami design firm Arquitectonica, range from 300-1,800sqft and feature balconies overlooking the city and Biscayne Bay. Each space boasts floor-to-ceiling windows, and walk-in rain showers, while the one, two and three-bedroom residence suite options also offer fully equipped kitchens and laundry facilities. Look out for two signature restaurants designed by progressive Los Angeles-based design firm Studio Collective, including Quinto La Huella, the first-ever outpost of Uruguay’s beachside Parador La Huella, which currently holds the no. 11 position on the list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015, and Sugar, an Asian-inspired rooftop bar and garden on the hotel’s 40th floor. www.east-miami.com

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INTRODUCING 31

KL KOOL

Style returns to the Malaysian capital with the reopening of the St Regis Kuala Lumpur, a luxurious enclave nestled within the One IFC development at the heart of the city’s Sentral Precinct. With stunning views of KL’s cityscape, including the National Museum and Lake Gardens, the reimagined hotel takes its inspiration from a stylish Manhattan apartment, thanks to interiors and architecture by G.A. Design and a captivating art collection. Boasting 208 spacious guest rooms, each with walk-in wardrobes, sublime bathrooms and 24-hour butler service, the hotel is crowned by the Royal Suite, a 4,000sqft retreat that features a show kitchen, its own terrace, and a private gym and massage suite. Downstairs there’s six restaurant and bar concepts including Taka by Sushi Saito, the first restaurant to open outside Tokyo by three Michelin-starred chef Takashi Saito. www.stregis.com/kualalumpur

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32

WELLNESS

Mountain of Peace

I

f you’re craving an escape from the bustle of city life, help might be at hand. Located at the gateway to Unesco-listed Dujiangyan, Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountains has at its heart one of the country’s most indulgent wellness enclaves. A fusion of ancient philosophies and modern technology, the Six Senses Spa boasts a comprehensive menu of spa treatments and rituals, many laced with the teaching of Taoism, which originated at Qing Cheng Mountain. www.jetsetter.hk

A total of ten spacious spa suites offer privacy and serenity in equal measure and are the perfect setting for 60-90 minute signature massages, from the Deep Tissue, which eases muscle tension and wakens the senses, through to the Detox, a stimulating treatment that uses silicone cups to drain toxins from the body.

Signature Wrap Body Refiner is ideal for sensitive skin, and is a cleansing treatment that balances the skin’s natural oils, while rebalancing the body and mind. It begins with a smoothing rice complex exfoliation, using local ginkgo and star anise, and concludes with a replenishing warm camellia flower flannel body wrap.

The Tui Na is a Chinese manipulative handson therapy which uses Chinese Taoist and martial arts principles in an effort to bring the principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine into balance; while the 90-minute Six Senses

Leave time after your treatment for a visit to the ice cave, a soak in the steam room, or a private yoga class with one of the Spa’s own gurus. www.sixsenses.com/resorts/qingcheng-mountain

PAMPER 33

Comfort Comrade The Ritz-Carlton Moscow has unveiled a new spa concept with a series of new luxury treatments. The flagship Moscow Honey Treatment features a full body massage with organic honey, an express facial and a relaxing scalp massage, while the Royal Massage Ritual is a four-handed hot stone treatment designed to soothe the weary mind. Other new items on the menu include two detox-focused treatments – the Detoxifying Cleansing Ritual and the Ultimate Detox & Tone Ritual - as well as the Restorative Balancing Ritual, which brings the mind and soul back into harmony while giving nourishment to the skin. www.ritzcarlton.com

London Beauty

The Peak Health Club & Spa at Jumeirah Carlton Tower in London has launched a range of result-driven treatments which promise to bring back youthfulness to the skin. The signature Skeyndor Kobido & Global Lift Facial is designed to remove toxins and wrinkles and restore skin suppleness, while the Ultimate HydraFacial Healthy Skin Treatment features skin-boosting serums which help repair and protect the skin. Tailored to an individual’s needs, The Peak PHYTO5 Facial is an aromatic and restorative therapy that leaves guests with an invigorating glow. www.jumeirah.com

Unique Experiences The Spa at Mandarin Oriental London has introduced Reiki and Craniosacral Therapies to its extensive menu. Experienced therapist Rika Tanaka, who has practiced Reiki, a Japanese healing technique, for 15 years, will take guests on an 80-minute detoxifying journey that can release blocked energy from the body and relieve stress. Guests can also treat themselves to the Stillness Ritual, a 110-minute Craniosacral therapy session designed to calm mind and body. www.mandarinoriental.com/london

Healing & Tranquility The LifeCo Well Being and Detox Center from Turkey has opened its first international retreat in Phuket, Thailand. Set amidst a lush tropical forest, the wellness centre comprises a therapy building and a clinic which provides specialized medical services. Guests can take part in different juice fasting and healthy nutrition programs as well as specialist pain reduction and healing programs, such as the Magnetic Bemer Therapy, which elevates blood oxygen levels for accelerated healing. Yoga classes, meditation and wellness talks are also available for guests who seek inner balance. www.thelifeco.com

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THE NEIGHBORHOOD

T H E R E AWA K E N I N G

OF HAKODATE

CHIARA TERZUOLO VISITS THE QUIET, UNASSUMING JAPANESE PORT TOWN OF

HAKODATE, THE GATEWAY TO THE ISLAND OF HOKKAIDO AND THE NEWEST DESTINATION FOR THE COUNTRY’S ICONIC BULLET TRAINS.

A

s the plane began its wobbly descent, the dark six pointed star of the Goryokaku, Japan’s first (and most beautiful) Western-style fortress, filled the little window beside me, an unusual welcome to the port town of Hakodate, which is once again reclaiming its position as the gateway to Hokkaido.

Hakodate’s dramatic rise to prosperity started in 1859, when it was selected to be one of www.jetsetter.hk

the first trading posts with the West. The world poured into Hakodate, leaving its mark in the dramatic cupola-topped churches, colourful mansions and red brick warehouses that circle the port. The advent of air transport, however, slowed sea trade, and the city settled into being a beloved, if minor, spot for a quiet vacation.

However the city is once again stirring. In March, that miracle of Japanese engineering, the shinkansen (bullet train), came streaking

through the chunnel from the mainland. I arrived in Hakodate only a month before the event, and you could almost hear the bated breath, the scrubbed up city proof of excitement and expectation. During every conversation I had, someone mentioned the bullet train; the excitement was palpable.

After a whirlwind of interviews, bowing and handshakes, it was all I could do to drag myself to a small, foggy-windowed ramen shop, slurp down a steaming bowl of the city’s famous shio ramen (fine noodles in a salt-

THE NEIGHBORHOOD 35 (left) The Goryokaku; (right) the city's trading past can be seen in its architecture; a traditional market

based broth, somehow light despite the fragrant oil) then fall asleep to the sound of foghorns from the bay.

The next morning I rose early and slipped out of the sleepy hotel, the starched clerk bowing me out the door, and meandered towards the fish market, soon to be waylaid by a tanned lady with an adorable bonnet and serious waders.

“It’s as fresh and genki (lively) as me!” she said, striking a pose and fearlessly holding up a crab the size of my face. The red snow crab was destined to become a grilled breakfast for the gentleman beside me, who snapped a picture of this bit of fisherman’s pride and gazed thoughtfully at the sinuous squid in the fishmonger’s tank nearby.

Outside the well-scrubbed market the streets of Hakodate remained quiet, and I was the only one to board the historic tram, a lovely rumbling, chiming bit of nostalgia that connects the city from end to end. I jumped off at the Suehirocho stop and then climbed the nearest slope, away from the misty harbour. Hakodate is a narrow strip between two bays; at its thinnest point only one kilometer separates the waves. My walk started at the Old Public Hall, a Meijiera folly in buttercup and robin’s egg pastels, which deftly combines Western and Japanese architecture. Due to the early hour I had the neighbourhood basically all to myself, save for a few spritely Hokkaido grandmothers, seemingly half my height and at least twice my age, cheerfully lugging groceries up steep stairways.

The fog cleared away, and I got the full effect of Hachimanzaka Slope, a straight street buttressed by solid paving stones and orderly trees that lead the eye directly to the blue of the harbour and cloud-flecked sky. The Western style mansions, the onion domes of St. Nicholas Orthodox Church, and the bright red bricks of the retro warehouses by the water below make the scenery timeless. Hakodate retains the faded gentility of its prosperous commercial past, as well as distinct reminders that it was once the Wild West of Japan. The outpost of Russia’s Far Eastern Federal University, a reminder of Hakodate’s proximity to the contested Sakhalin Island and its ties to that northern giant, seems less old fashioned and quaint here than it would in Tokyo.

I picked my way down a random slope, admiring the rooster on the turret of one of the many Catholic churches, when the hypnotic smell of fresh bread turned my head. I honed in on a yellow stucco building, and peeking through the window saw a wood burning stove in action. The owner was surprised, but cut a few slices of thick raisin-dotted bread and ground me a fresh cup of coffee. The mug was a piece of art, covered in flecks of gold, swirling patterns and hidden creatures, a dove slowly peeking out with every sip. The warm wood-floored

room was lined with more examples of this intricate pottery. “Are these your work?” I asked my host. “My father’s,” he responded.

Later I learned that his father is a well-known Hokkaido artist, the cup a museum quality piece. Hakodate hospitality at its best.

The day passed in a flash, and before I knew it I was riding the cable car up to see the city’s famous ‘Million Dollar Night View’. The sparkling lights of the town shaped by the water on either side make an indelible impression of a woman, waist tightly corseted with jewels and her arms spread wide to welcome travellers to Hokkaido’s shores. Over the clicking of camera shutters I heard English, Chinese, Thai, even French, and couldn’t help but feel glad that the world is once again coming to Hakodate. www.jetsetter.hk

36

INSIDER

G o i n g B eyond the C a l l NICK WALTON

SPEAKS WITH LES CARLISLE, AND BEYOND CONSERVATION MANAGER, ABOUT THE IMPACT OF TOURISM, THE IMPORTANCE OF SUSTAINABILITY, AND THE CHALLENGES OF IMPLEMENTING AFRICA’S MO DELS ABROAD. land to wildlife had the potential to produce better

in the wild. That way you make them valuable.

returns than cattle farming in marginal rainfall

To ensure that rhino do not face extinction we

areas.

need to make them worth more when they are alive than when they are dead. The second way

What’s the most fundamental crisis facing Africa in terms of wildlife conservation?

Currently there is no doubt that the African

How important is conservation from a tourism perspective?

participation safaris where they can participate in rhino notching.

system. If we lose our rhino, we believe that

dwindling, sustainability is key to ensuring the

entire system and all the wildlife of Africa.

survival of the world’s endangered wildlife areas

model

of

low-impact,

high-yield

wildlife tourism is founded on the premise that conservation can be sustained through sound business principles and sustainability is an essential tool in achieving this goal.

Your first project with andBeyond was the Phinda Private Game Reserve; what lessons did you learn?

You’ve taken your proven methods to India. What projects are you working on?

In Africa, we have successfully recreated conservation areas using the translocation of wildlife as the core action. In India a local extinction had never been successfully reversed by means of translocation until 2011, when andBeyond

assisted

Indian

conservation

authorities in translocating 19 gaur (Indian bison) to Bandhavgarh National Park. A prime example of international cooperation, this laid the foundation

andBeyond was launched in 1990 with the

for further specialised wildlife relocations in the

purchase of 13,000 hectares of degraded farmland

central state of Madhya Pradesh. Conservation

near the coast of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal

authorities in India have now gained the skills

province. Named Phinda after the Zulu word for

necessary to carry out subsequent translocations

“the return”, today this protected area has grown

of other species.

to 23,000 hectares and is andBeyond’s flagship game reserve and a testing ground for many of

For those who want a more hands-on experience

but also an indicator of the health of the whole

on saving rhinos as a call to action to protect the

pioneering

can do so on www.rhinoswithoutborders.com. of conservation, andBeyond also offers guests

many other species may follow. We are focusing

to andBeyond’s core values. The company’s

Anyone wanting to find out more or to donate

the rhino. Rhinos are not only an iconic species,

from, and with the world’s wilderness areas

make good business sense but it is fundamental

Rhinos Without Borders project with hard cash.

species that is most vulnerable to extinction is

Without an endless pool of resources to draw

and their inhabitants. Therefore, not only does it

is to support rhino conservation causes like the

andBeyond will soon begin programmes in South America, a region we don’t always associate with conservation requirements. What will you be focusing on there and how will you sew that into the guest experience?

One of the most valuable lessons that I’ve learned is that there literally is no one size fits all solution to conservation issues. The only thing that works is to implement locally crafted solutions to local issues. We are exploring a relationship with the Huilo Huilo Foundation, a sustainable tourism company with a number of lodges, to see where we can work together. We are also in contact with the Tompkins Foundation, which runs conservation projects in Northern Patagonia in Chile and in the Iberian Wetlands in Argentina, and have been looking at the National Park Torres del Paine in Patagonia, where we have identified a gap in terms of projects that track pumas and other wild animals.

Phinda was the first Big Five private game

Rhinos are particularly close to your heart and your Rhinos Without Borders has been instrumental in saving threatened populations. How can we combat the international rhino horn trade?

reserve to be established in KwaZulu-Natal,

The first and best way to support rhino

gives back in a positive way through a commitment

demonstrating for the first time that dedicating

conservation is to travel to Africa to see rhino

to sustainability and conservation.

the pioneering working models of the company, from being the first in South Africa to relocate an adult elephant herd to private ground, to the safe reintroduction of both lions and cheetah on the same reserve. Equally significantly, andBeyond

www.jetsetter.hk

How can we be better travellers from a conservation standpoint?

Sustainable travel does not mean scaling back on comfort or enjoyment. Instead, it’s about choosing to travel with a company like andBeyond, which

38

CRUISING

QUEEN

OF THE SEAS The world’s most historic cruise line is steadily attracting new cruisers from Asia keen to tap into Cunard’s rich traditions. By Nick Walton

www.jetsetter.hk

CRUISING 39

www.jetsetter.hk

40

CRUISING

From the fencing classes to the cuisine to the entertainment, there is a sense of British luxury throughout the Queen Victoria

Cunard cruiser I meet on the top deck as we navigate the length of Victoria Harbour. “My wife can’t wait to dress up, sip champagne and waltz in the Queens Room. It’s all very exciting.” A total of 1,400 guests, a mixture of Australians, English, and many first time Cunarders from Hong Kong, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia, had boarded Queen Victoria in Hong Kong. They joined almost 300 guests enjoying the 120-day World Cruise, a Cunard staple that’s been on offer for 80 years. One Yorkshireman I encounter on the way to dinner that first night was celebrating his 2,000th day at sea with the line.

T

here’s nothing quite like leaving your home town by ship, if only to gain a unique perspective. Whether that ship is a regal old ocean liner or a modern metropolis with climbing walls and bumper cars, there is majesty in that departure, and in the silent, slipping panorama that’s at once familiar and exhilaratingly new. The Queen Victoria’s recent midnight departure from Hong Kong’s Ocean Terminal was just such an occasion; the towering skyscrapers, backed by the brooding profile of Victoria Peak, make for a stunning retreat from one of Asia’s most famous ports but quickly we’re engulfed by the darkness of night on the South China Sea. It’s beautiful and unforgettable cruise experiences like this that first forged the Cunard brand, helping the 175-year old line become a household name, on either sides of the Atlantic and beyond.

Bolstered by its popularity with well-heeled British and Australian cruisers (the latter recently announced as the line’s second largest market), this most historic of lines is now turning its attention to affluent new cruisers in Southeast Asia and China, keen to tap in to all that rich heritage and tradition.

“It’s just like I expected a cruise to be,” says one Hong Kong first time www.jetsetter.hk

It’s also my first Cunard cruise and this means I bring with me – founded or not – the expectations garnered by a brand that transcends generations. My grandmother coos when I tell her I will travel with Cunard from Hong Kong to Singapore and crowds line the waterfront at Tsim Sha Tsui to photograph the magnificent Queen Victoria at berth. It’s an important day on the line’s marketing calendar; dubbed the Three Queens Party, Queen Victoria, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Elizabeth will all visit Hong Kong within 24 hours, a sign of things to come as Asian ports increasingly feature on Cunard’s iconic world cruise itineraries. After suffering through the confusion of Ocean Terminal, literally a shopping mall with cruise facilities absent-mindedly added later (and thanking my stars I wasn’t boarding at the new Kai Tak Terminal at the other end of the harbour), I pace long corridors onboard, eventually finding my balcony category room on the 5th deck, starboard side.

The Queen Victoria boasts 1,003 cabins, made up of 143 inside, 146 oceanview and 581 balcony staterooms. There are a total of 10 wheelchair accessible cabins across the varied room categories, which include Cunard’s coveted Princess and Queens Grill suites, and several single cabins for solo travellers, an increasingly popular amenity for Cunard diehards.

42

CRUISING

My balcony stateroom is elegant, quiet and functional. There’s a double bed made up of two slim singles; a small bathroom with marble vanity and shower; a small work desk with flat screen television; a two-seat couch, and a generous balcony with two chairs.

The room is dressed in clover honey with accents in royal blue and gold. There’s plenty of wardrobe space and it’s blissfully cool. Each evening my steward William performs the turndown service, topping up the Penhaligon's Quercus toiletries and returning the room to order, making the space a delight to return to at the end of a long day of exploration.

Of course, to sample the real Cunard cruise experience you need to book into either one of the 58 Princess Grill Suites, which are basically larger versions of a standard balcony cabin and range from 335-513sqft; or the Queens Grill suites, which range from 35 Penthouses and 16 Queens Suites through to four Grand and two Master Suites. In addition to some in-room perks, from extra wardrobe space and full sized bathtubs to terry cloth robes and king-sized beds, these spaces offer cruisers access to dedicated lounges, courtyards, and intimate dining rooms that don’t uphold the sometimes-frustrating restrictions of the main dining room downstairs. It's class-defined cruising at its best.

“I love the Princess Grill dining room,” says Hong Kong cruiser David Leung. “They really go the extra mile to look after you up there and the space is intimate and inviting. Downstairs it's a whole different story.” Ideal for longer itineraries and for well-heeled cruisers looking for respite from the crowds as well as a little extra pampering, the Queens and Princess Grills are British luxury cruising at its best.

Queen Victoria will also add a new Britannia Club category in 2017.

Cunard is the epitome of Old School British cruising; there’s the pomp of the afternoon tea, served in the sumptuous Queens Room and accompanied by live music; the daily fencing classes; and regular ballroom dance recitals. There are artifacts, posters, and models exhibited like museum pieces throughout the ship, and even the informal nights are as formal as some ships get.

(top to bottom) The elegance of the Queens Room; a balcony stateroom

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Consequently, Cunard has undoubtedly created its own niche with American and European cruisers, one that’s attracting an increasing number of affluent Asian travellers looking to experience the famed White Star service for themselves. Some of these cruise newbies seem to adopt the old world nature of Cunard quickly, learning to waltz and shuffleboard. Others struggle with the rigid dress codes, restrictive dining times and language barriers (there are very few Chinese-speaking crew evident). It’s apparent that Cunard suits a particular style of cruiser; one that’s less fussed with signature dining and activities and one that’s still armoured with the golden era of ocean travel, who enjoys the serenity of the sea and the elegant communality of the dining room, who revels dressing for dinner, and who likes to take things blissfully slow.

There’s also no doubt that the Queen Victoria is a beautiful ship.

From British sculptor John McKenna's relief sculpture panel above the grand lobby staircase, to the pastel-hued Queens Room with its intricate parquet floor, the ship is a joy to cruise on. There’s room to embrace the sun and room enough to tantalise the taste buds; there are bars and lounges galore, and room to retreat. During the day the heart of the ship is deck 9, home to the Lido all-day dining restaurant, two pools wreathed by sun loungers, the intimacy of the Winter Garden, the surprisingly popular Cunard Health Club, and the spa, all of which are packed with holidaymakers every day of our short sprint to Singapore.

44

CRUISING

The Lido Restaurant

As the sun begins to settle, the sun-worshippers reluctantly leave their pool-side posies and the heart of the ship shifts to decks 2 and 3, which are shared between the Britannia Restaurant, the ship’s main dining room; an extensive library; the voluminous Queens Room; the Golden Lion pub, a favourite with trivia fans; a small but lively casino; and the retail options of the Royal Arcade.

Like cruise ships the world over, dining is an important component of the cruise. Rather than split the dining experience across a vast array of outlets, Cunard consolidates and then innovates. There are two main dining outlets onboard: the Britannia Restaurant, a regal and beautifully-appointed two-tier dining room inspired by the Golden Arrow train that once linked London and Paris, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner complete with the line’s iconic White Star service.

The Lido Restaurant on deck 9 offers 24 hour buffet dining and, at dinner, a revolving specialty restaurant that allows guests a chance to tour the globe with their taste buds.

“I love the pageantry of the Britannia Restaurant,” says Emily, an avid cruiser from Sydney bound for Cape Town. “It’s a chance to see new friends, to digest the day’s activity, and dress to impress. We don’t come down every night but when we do we always enjoy it.”

In addition to these two mainstays, there are traditional pub lunches – think beef pie and fish and chips – in the Golden Lion; cakes and pastries at tea time at Café Carinthia; and elegant French fine dining at the beautifully-appointed Verandah restaurant overlooking the ship’s main atrium. Queens and Princess Grill suite guests have access to their own dining rooms as well as all other www.jetsetter.hk

restaurants, although there are surcharges at Verandah (US$24) and Lido’s specialty restaurant (US$15) concepts. Champagnelaced Enhanced Afternoon Teas are sometimes served in Verandah for a surcharge of US$29.99.

However, you could be forgiven for wanting to save your money as the complimentary daily afternoon tea, served in the Queens Room, is one of the most popular events of the cruise and for good reason.

The cheerful white gloved waiters and waitresses (who are far more attentive than those at the pool deck or dining room), complimented by a string quartet and the beauty and vitality of the Queens Room, makes for a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Of all the activities on board – from bridge and language classes to shuffleboard and ping pong competitions, beauty seminars, fitness courses and the memorable fencing classes of the Queens Room – the afternoon tea is the most popular, with guests arriving an hour or more before hand to nab the right table.

The afternoon tea is also one of the little pockets of the Queen Victoria in which the timeless elegance of Cunard is really captured.

Another is the Commodore’s Club which, unlike many of the other bars on the ship, has an ambiance that’s both regal and lavish, with crisp service, live piano jazz and well-made martinis drawing guests again and again.

Cunard has been a mainstay of ocean travel for generations and new itineraries and world cruises that pass through Asia will allow even more travellers the chance to voyage with the best of British luxury. www.cunard.com

46

BRAND STORY

AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 YEARS BRITISH AIRWAYS CELEBRATES 80 YEARS OF FLYING BETWEEN LONDON AND HONG KONG THIS YEAR. NICK WALTON LOOKS BACK AT THE BRITISH NATIONAL CARRIER’S RICH HERITAGE AND WHAT IT’S OFFERING LUXURY TRAVELLERS TODAY

T

oday British Airways’ im-

was the first commercial carrier to touch

the route, eventually arriving at the heart

posing Airbus A380s are

down at Kai Tak Airport, swooping in over

of the Fragrant Harbour as their Imperial

the modern face of avia-

the fledgling city on March 24, 1936, to an

Airways Short C Class Empire flying boat

tion. Their iconic blue and

almost royal welcome. In those early days of

or De Havilland DH86 touched down at the

white-adorned

rise

international air travel a trip between London

iconic if not misplaced airport.

well above the concourse

and Hong Kong would take eight days

at Hong Kong International Airport, their vast

and would cost GBP175, the equivalent of

A decade later, British Overseas Airways

wingspan enough to captivate even the most

HK$127,800 today, which would even trump

Corporation (BOAC), the result of a merger

avid of travellers passing through this vital

the hefty fee for today’s luxury first class

between

hub. And so it has been for almost a century,

suites. The itinerary would be a whirlwind

Airways, would commence flights with land-

as British Airways, the modern incarnation of

of 23 exotic capitals and remote, emerging

based Canadair Argonaut aircraft, later to be

many past carriers, celebrates 80 years link-

destinations, including Alexandria, Egypt;

replaced by Boeing 707s as the new jet age

ing London with the Far East.

Baghdad, Iraq; Sharjah, UAE; Jodhpur and

arrived.

tails

Imperial

Airways

and

British

Calcutta, in India; and Bangkok, Thailand.

British Airways’ precursor, Imperial Airways, www.jetsetter.hk

Guests would spend the night in hotels along

“It was a very exciting time for the airline;

BRAND STORY 47 people saw these new jets and the world seemed suddenly accessible,” says resident historian Jim Davies, when I visit the airline’s small but beautifullypresented Speedbird Heritage Centre at its awardwinning headquarters at Waterside, near Heathrow.

Speedbird, named for the call sign of the Concorde, doesn’t have the kinds of hardware that gets aviation geeks hot under the collar (save for a formidable set forward landing gear from its cutting-edge namesake), but it does tell a rich and fascinating tale of the airline’s development, complete with 400 vintage uniforms, many styled on the national dress of destinations; models of the many aircraft Imperial, BOAC, BEA, BSAA, British Caledonian and British Airways have flown; and iconic posters from the commencement of new routes, including Hong Kong. Aviation buffs looking to kill time before their flight might like to book ahead for a sneak peek at this curated collection of memorabilia.

“Of course, we’re still making history every day,” says Davis as he leans again a mockup of British Airways’ present yin and yang-styled business class seat, which can be found on the airline’s 14 non-stop flights per week between London and Hong Kong.

With 80 years of flying to Hong Kong under its belt the airline has a lot of history to display, portions of which were on show at an innovative pop up exhibition at Hong Kong University. Titled HK80, the exhibition was curated by students of the Media, Culture and Creative Cities Programme and included many of the most popular artefacts from the Speedbird centre, including special menus from the 1950s and 1960s and footage from the rare but always popular visits of British Airways concordes as part of their world tours.

“We are extremely proud of our heritage as the pioneers of Hong Kong’s civil aviation,” said British Airways’ regional general manager, greater China and the Philippines Noella Ferns at the launch of the exhibition.

“To celebrate this special milestone, we are excited to bring British Airways’ first pop-up heritage museum to Hong Kong so that our customers can take a trip down memory lane and see how the airline has changed over the years.”

Change is a constant theme of the aviation industry – evolve or go the way of so many now-lost acronyms.

British Airways heralds in the next chapter of its history with the cutting edge Boeing 787 Dreamliner, the A380, which continues that famed Hong Kong-London route - albeit in more comfort than those days past - and the much-anticipated Airbus A350, new aircraft designed for a new generation of flight that’s still grounded in those 21-day epics of the 1930s. www.jetsetter.hk

48

ROAD WARRIOR

The Gifted Hands French jazz pianist and composer Baptiste Trotignon has delighted music lovers around with world with his passion and technique. He shares with Crystal Leung tips for handling jetlag, his travel essentials, and his adventures while touring Asia.

To what extent has travel inspired your latest album Concerto Pour Piano?

Travelling helps you understand who you are, and observing other cultures and other ways of living makes you richer as a human being, but I don’t know if it’s directly a source of inspiration. Inspiration comes from inside or from “up there”.

nature, and the desire to jump into modernity and be innovative.

I would say the more south you go, towards Indonesia, the more you get into an African vibe. It seems China is more speedy and direct, while Indonesia is slower; people are reserved but also very observant. Bangkok seems to be a crazy town.

What travel essentials will What are we missing in we always find in your carry-on?

Paris?

I would say Musée Rodin. In the past people would go to SaintEustache Church and listen to Jean Guillou, an incredible improviser. During the quietness of August walk the city centre and get lost in the many small streets. It’s the best season for Paris as all the stressed Parisians have left.

You have a very tight concert schedule; how do you handle jetlag?

I try to upgrade to business class with frequent flyer programs so I can sleep on the plane. I also go into a sort of discipline about sleep hours and food, to help my body adjust to the new rhythm.

You’ve just performed in the capitals of China, Thailand and Indonesia; what did you enjoy the most?

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I love Asia in general: I love the mix of deep traditions, like spirituality, medicine, arts, and

Very practical things: nail clippers - indispensable to a pianist – ear plugs, eye masks, a travel pillow, a computer, a pack of nuts, and soy sauce, as sometimes you don't know when you're going to eat or what you're going to eat. It's for security.

What’s your most unforgettable travel experience?

I can’t tell what’s the best, but I remember a few ‘shocks’, like when I was first in Senegal, and it was so intense; or in Japan for the first time, so different; or in New-York for the first time, 20 years ago. In fact the big travel experiences are all these ‘first times’.

Where’s next?

Anywhere I haven’t been to I’d love to visit, but if it's for touring and playing, the difficulty is to find good or at least decent pianos; it is not always easy.

50

ARGENTINA

THE DANCE

CONTINUES

The Argentine capital continues to evolve as innovative hoteliers and chefs transform its myriad neighbourhoods with flare, colour and style, finds Joe Mortimer.

www.jetsetter.hk

ARGENTINA 51

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52

ARGENTINA

Clockwise from top left: Philippe Starck’s wild designs at Bistro Sur; a cabaret style performance at Rojo Tango; decadent suites at Faena Hotel; make yourself at home in Faena’s Library Lounge.

T

he elaborate, belle époque buildings of Buenos Aires’ most affluent neighbourhoods hark back to a time when the city was the most important trading hub in South America. Today, the Argentine capital wears its complementary contrasts on its sleeve: juxtapositions of old and new; grand and downtrodden; rich and poor.

It’s these disparities that fuse to create an electric atmosphere that pervades the city once known as the Paris of Latin America.

Despite the absence of foreign investment in Buenos Aires for the last ten years, the city has prospered as an artistic and tourism hub, thanks to a collection of creative entrepreneurs who have turned existing infrastructure into www.jetsetter.hk

new independent businesses. If new president Mauricio Macri delivers on his campaign promises to open up the country to new foreign investment, it won't be long before those homegrown businesses are joined by international firms eager to get in on the action.

Unlike many world capitals, there is no sea of branded hotel flags fluttering above the streets of Buenos Aires.

Instead, an archipelago of small, boutique properties has proliferated, creating a unique hotel landscape with styles to suit all tastes. The model works particularly well given BA’s sprawling layout, with numerous distinct neighbourhoods. From the stately mansions of Recoleta and the cobbled streets of San Telmo, to the restored warehouses of Puerto Madero and the leafy expanse of Palermo, the city’s geography is varied and vast.

54

ARGENTINA Left: Experience Argentine passion at Rojo Tango; feast on a sumptuous gourmet dinner before the show.

The 19th century redbrick buildings of Puerto Madero were the focus of a decade-old regeneration project that saw millions of dollars of private investment breathe new life into the once-forgotten port in the first years of the new millennium. It’s now one of the city’s most expensive neighbourhoods, characterised by the dramatic contrast between gleaming glass skyscrapers and the warehouses and cranes of the old port.

Entrepreneur Alan Faena was one of the pioneers of the revival, buying up the old El Porteño wheat mill and, with the help of designer Philippe Starck, turning it into one of the most stylish and atmospheric hotels in the city; the 105-room Faena Hotel Buenos Aires.

At the hotel’s exceptional Bistro Sur, chef Rodrigo Vázques’ delightful menu is complemented by some of Philippe Starck’s most playful designs. White unicorn heads with ruby-red eyes stare down from white walls, and sommeliers recommend vintages to match beautifully dishes and spectacular desserts. Next door, the hotel’s acclaimed Rojo Tango show serves up a three-course dinner before a troupe of tango dancers perform an intimate set, accompanied by a full orchestra at the rear of the small, cabaret-style space.

On the eastern side of the city, the once rundown neighbourhood of Palermo has also been through a dramatic transformation. Like New York’s Meatpacking District or London’s Shoreditch, an influx of creative professionals has seen its desirability skyrocket. That concentration of artists, designers, restaurateurs and hoteliers has turned Palermo into a hub of creativity that’s now the de rigueur haunt of any self-respecting startup.

Palermo’s low-rise aesthetic and sense of faded glamour has nourished a thriving boutique hotel scene that lures many wellheeled visitors away from classical Recoleta, where the bulk of Buenos Aires’ traditional luxury accommodation can be found. www.jetsetter.hk

56

ARGENTINA Left: Palacio Duhau is one of the most opulent buildings in affluent Recoleta; settle in for a drink at Park Hyatt’s historic Oak Bar; or dine in the plush surroundings of Piano Nobile.

their own twist on modern Argentine cuisine.

Notable among the many excellent eateries is Germán Martitegui’s Tegui, which was ranked number seven on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 list. The star chef commissioned Argentine street artist Cabaio to turn the façade into a colourful mural, behind which lies rows of intimate tables and smartly-dressed waiters serving an everchanging menu of eclectic Argentine and international dishes.

A few blocks away, Peruvian super chef Gaston Acurio has just opened a new branch of his highly successful La Mar chain, and the team at Fierro Hotel have paired the triedand-tested combination of meat and wine at the recently opened UCO, where Irish chef Ed Holloway serves rustic, homemade Argentina cuisine.

In the centre of town, Recoleta is the heart of old-money Buenos Aires. Legions of the city’s deceased elite are laid to rest within the elaborate mausoleums and tombs of Recoleta Cemetery, while international jetsetters lay their heads in the handful of luxury hotels that call the neighbourhood home.

Small hideaways like Home Hotel Buenos Aires, regarded as the first boutique property in the area, command legions of loyal followers. Owners Patricia O’Shea and Tom Rixton bought the property in 2003 and spent two and a half years fitting it out with antique furniture and vintage wallpaper from the nearby Mercado de las Pulgas. Other Palermo notables include Francis Ford Coppola’s Jardin Escondido, super-trendy Legado Mitico, and the laid-back BoBo Hotel, as well as newcomers such as Fierro Hotel Buenos Aires and exclusive member’s only venue, The Clubhouse.

You can’t walk more than a few metres in Palermo without passing a bar, café or restaurant, and star chefs from across South America have flocked to the area to present www.jetsetter.hk

58

ARGENTINA

Clockwise from top: An executive suite at Park Hyatt; stylish surrounds at Fierro Hotel’s UCO restaurant; Palacio Duhau’s magnificent Salon Cristal; savour rustic homemade Argentine cuisine at UCO.

When it was completed in 1934, Palacio Duhau was one of the most exclusive residences in the affluent neighbourhood, an accolade that it retains today as Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. Overlooking one of the largest gardens in Recoleta, the hotel’s Duhau Restaurant & Vinoteca serves exquisite steaks and delicate Patagonian fish paired with wines from a cellar of more than 3,500 bottles.

Just around the corner, the legendary Alvear Palace Hotel was the grande dame of the city when it opened in 1932, and down the road, the Four Seasons is still resplendent after a top-totoe renovation that was completed in 2013. Less ostentatious but equally as resplendent, HUB Porteño and Algodon Mansion are boutique hotels that occupy charismatic historical buildings on quiet side streets, near to the glitzy storefronts of brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc.

Nowhere else in the world do dining, drama and luxury combine so successfully as they do in Buenos Aires. With its complementary blend of big business and small enterprise, as well as government promises to bring new investment to the city, it wont be long before BA reclaims its title as the Paris of Latin America.

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60

BOUTIQUE & BEAUTIFUL

BEDDING DOWN

IN BEANTOWN Next time you visit Boston, stay in one of these stylish boutique hotels, which

blend luxury and functionality with the city’s rich history. By Crystal

Leung

The Boxer Nestled between the neighbourhood of North End and the cobblestone streets of Beacon Hill, The Boxer celebrates the rich history of Boston through its design and architecture. At the hands of J. Brice Design, the hotel’s 80 guest rooms marry contemporary industrial aesthetic with modern conveniences. Opt for a Deluxe King room, which is dressed in stylish slate blue and features a king-sized bed with a fisherman’s knit bed scarf, a Calcutta marble bathroom with deep soaking tub, a chic open frame wardrobe, and an iPhone docking station.

Leave time to tantalise your palate at Finch, which offers a perfect mix of hearty modern American fare and hometown favourites, such as New England chowder. 107 Merrimac Street; +617-624-0202; www.theboxerboston.com www.jetsetter.hk

BOUTIQUE & BEAUTIFUL 61

Nine Zero Hotel Overlooking the historic Freedom Trail, Kimpton’s Nine Zero Hotel is a boutique-style design-forward urban retreat with 190 exquisitelyappointed guest rooms and suites.

Blending

sophistication

with

playful elegance, all guest rooms offer

plush

Frette

linens,

bath

amenities from Atelier Bloom, and large windows that can be opened for fresh air. For an ultra-luxe experience, pick the Cloud Nine Suite, which has a separate living area and a spa bath with jet tub and separate glass shower. For delicious bites and cocktails, head over to the

laid-back,

vintage-inspired

Highball Lounge, where you can

The Verb Hotel

the hotel also boasts three flexible

Located adjacent to historic Fenway Park, home to the Boston Red Sox, The Verb Hotel is a modern reimagining of the original Fenway Motor Hotel, which opened in 1959. Inspired by the rock and roll culture that permeated the Fenwick neighbourhood through the 1960s, the hotel’s 93 guest rooms are adorned with Modernica saucer ceiling lights and artwork showcasing pages from The Boston Phoenix and boast 47-inch flat screen HD TVs and spacious bathrooms with Bigelow products.

rooms flooded with natural light. 90

Swim a few laps in the outdoor pool, before savouring robata-grilled yakitori, creative maki rolls and

Tremont Street Boston; +617-772-

Japanese-inspired craft cocktails at Hojoko, helmed by award-winning chef Tim Cushman. 1271

5800; www.ninezero.com

Boylston Street; +617-566-4500; www.theverbhotel.com

play throwback board games with family and friends. If you’re looking for meeting venues (just in case),

www.jetsetter.hk

62

INDONESIA

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INDONESIA 63

IN THE

KINGS' GARDEN NICK WALTON TRAVELS TO

FAR EASTERN INDONESIA TO DIVE AMONG THE ISLANDS OF REMOTE RAJA AMPAT ABOARD THE LUXURIOUS ALILA PURNAMA.

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64

INDONESIA Clockwise from top left: A stateroom on the Alila Purnama; crew source seafood from local fishermen; a welcome after an afternoon's diving

I

first heard of Raja Ampat from a

is an explosion of colours - reds, violets,

with his knowledge of vintage sundowners.

diving buddy of mine. It was one of

indigos and peach plume - framed on either

I’m immediately convinced that there’s no

those destinations whispered by

side by the deep blue of the sea and the inky

other way to explore this remote and exotic

avid scuba divers over a few cold

darkness of night. The waters around us are

locale.

beers, its mention so often followed

calm and shimmer in the dusk, and my fellow

by a moment of silent wonder and reflection.

travellers, cocktails in hand, are awed into a

Raja Ampat, which means ‘Four Kings’,

You fly to Jakarta, so the story went, and

collective silence. It’s an unforgettable start

takes its name from the four main islands

then travel the length of the world’s largest

to an unforgettable journey.

of an archipelago that counts more than

archipelago, leaving civilization behind as

1,500 isles, cays, and shoals and includes

you reached the island of Papua, a wild

A beautifully-constructed liveaboard built

Cenderawasih

place of isolated tribes, headhunting and

in the style of the traditional twin-masted

marine national park. Like a lost Eden, it

piracy. There you would find a paradise like

phinisis that once plied Indonesia’s trade

has wide open seas, fresh air, uninhabited,

no other. As a traveller already swoon by the

routes, the Alila Purnama, or Full Moon, is

jungle-encrusted islands, powder white sand

many faces of Indonesia, I was determined

operated by Alila Hotels & Resorts as one

beaches, pods of resident dolphins and

to visit, but its remoteness from the modern

of the most lavish liveaboards in Asia. A

manta, and locals bound by both Indonesian

world kept it just beyond my grasp. Until now.

member of the coveted Secret Retreats

and Papuan blood. However, people come

collection, she has just five spacious cabins,

to Raja Ampat for one thing: to dive. The

From the top deck of the Alila Purnama,

including a sumptuous master suite with its

Pacific and Indian Ocean currents which flow

I watch tiny, unassuming Sorong, Raja

own soak tub and panoramic balcony; a crew

through this geographic bottleneck breathe

Ampat’s big smoke, fade beyond the horizon

of 14; expansive decks cooled by the trade

life into Raja Ampat’s kaleidoscopic coral

as we motor west towards one of the most

winds; a fleet of tenders and paddle boards;

gardens, which have proven resilient against

dramatic sunsets as I’ve ever seen. The sky

and a barman who never ceases to impress

the bleaching and coral disease encountered

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Bay,

Indonesia’s

largest

INDONESIA 65

Gourmet dining; Mario (top right) leads a charming crew of 14

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66

INDONESIA around the equator. This is a garden of extensive fringe reefs, meadows of sea grass, life-protecting mangroves and wave-pounding drop-offs, the upwelling of nutrients from which seed and nurture an abundance of life. To put things in perspective, the Caribbean is home to a total of 70 coral species. Raja Ampat has 450 and counting. This, combined with a blissful lack of human interaction, ensures Raja Ampat is home to the greatest marine diversity on the planet, not to mention some pretty sensational dive experiences.

Dinner in the darkness; entering Tomolol Cave

Alila Purnama’s general manager, a charismatic, world-wandering

Spaniard

named

Mario,

doubles as the ship’s senior dive instructor and with his trusty sidekick Zhou “Tiger” Taige, a young Chinese dive instructor from Hangzhou, leads challenging yet exhilarating double-daily dive excursions (two of us also enjoy a night dive as part of our Advanced Open Water course). From Balbulol Lagoon, a series of shallow, sun-kissed pools nestled in a labyrinth of limestone islands; to the whipping currents that swirl around Nudie Rock, popular with schools of jackfish; and Yillet Island, loved for its dramatic wall dives, every site offers its own challenges and its own adventures. This is not the Maldives or Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, this is an unruly frontier churned by powerful currents and teeming with so much life the water can often appear murky.

I’m joined on the Purnama by four other guests – Sayan and Tina, a lovely couple from Bali who still have that honeymoon vibe seven months in, and acclaimed Spanish painter Miquel Barceló and his Thai wife Rose, a notable chef. It’s the perfect balance; we have youth and age, different cultures and backgrounds, but are drawn together by a love of exploration and by the wonder of Raja Ampat. Although Rose and Tina are new to diving and spend much of their time in the tutelage of the ever-smiling, ever-tyrannical Taige (Sayan and I promptly nickname her Tiger Shark), they are soon diving with the rest of the group, tracking the samba sways of reef sharks, lingering over forests of tree coral in key lime, lavender and peach melba; and learning to adjust their buoyance in the sometimes formidable tidal currents.

At the Boo Windows, we trace a wall punctuated with vibrant soft corals and nudibranches to a series of submerged ‘windows’ in the limestone base of the tiny island. Here we hook on to rocky www.jetsetter.hk

68

INDONESIA

outcrops and join inquisitive plate-sized

dinner. Three young Indonesian rangers live

Each day we return to the ship to a smiling

batfish and the odd camouflaged wobegong

at the camp for three weeks at a time and

crew who dish out fruit cocktails and warm

shark as we soar in the wake of the flowing

patrol at night in search of illegal fishing

towels, relieving us of our gear like beaming

current. Off the coast of Tomolol Island,

boats. On another, we pass through pearl

butlers. Evenings

we dive deep to enter Eddie’s Cave, which

farms protected by the Indonesian navy en

dinners with distinct regional twists, often

emerges again in a vast coral garden popular

route to the cavernous Tomolol Cave on the

using seafood bought from passing local

with shoals of glass and lion fish. I don’t know

island of Misool, a sacred place for both the

fishermen (Rose even commandeers the

who Eddie was but I’m sure he couldn’t have

island’s Muslim and animist communities.

kitchen one night to cook up an authentic

been prouder.

We wade into the dark recesses of the cave,

Thai feast). The ship has a tiny library and

donning head lamps before diving through

shaded sun loungers on the foredeck,

However, it's not all about diving; many

a submerged tunnel into another cave that

perfect for naps between dives, and there’s

afternoons we make for a deserted beach –

in turn opens onto a lush hidden garden,

always time for cocktails and toasts to herald

there are literally hundreds to choose from

framed by stalactites the colour of alabaster.

each arriving sunset.

– and the ship’s company sets up camp,

Afterwards we chase the sun home, the

complete with chilled towels, snorkeling gear

nimble tender skimming across the mirror-

After a week cruising and diving in Raja

and umbrellas. At one remote cove I stumble

like waters of a tidal estuary as the final rays

Ampat, we’re transfixed, but Mario keeps the

across a ranger’s camp, interrupting an early

of light crown the island’s distant peaks.

best till last. The sun is already scorching by

climax

with

gourmet

the time we leave the Alila Purnama, bound for a dive site called Manta Sandy, where, at 15 meters down, we hook on to dead coral outcrops while fighting the turbulence of a strong current, and watch graceful manta rays the size of Mini Coopers visit a ‘cleaning station’, where fish nip away at parasites and dead skin on manta rays, sharks and turtles.

With an effortless wiggle the huge manta soars over us like a great bird of prey. We follow two smaller rays, this time equipped with just snorkels, as they swim just below the

surface,

their

movements

infinitely

graceful.

Finally, Mario’s pièce de résistance is destination dining at its best. We’re ferried across a darkened bay towards a beacon of light that turns out to be a deserted beach clearing where burning torches ring a dining table decorated with fresh flowers.

Under a startling canopy of stars, my new friends and I marvel at the captivating beauty of Raja Ampat, thank the various gods for its isolation, and raise a toast to the mesmerising underwater paradise of the four mythical kings which once ruled this tiny, enticing corner of the globe. May they reign forever.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Getting There: Garuda Indonesia flies from Hong Kong to Jakarta and connects to Sorong via Makassar. www.garuda-indonesia.com

Cruising: Alila Purnama, a member of Secret Retreats, offers private charters and single cabin buy-ins from US$14,000 per couple for 6 nights. www.secret-collections.com www.jetsetter.hk

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

ASIA’S MOST UNDERRATED

BEACH DESTINATIONS

Looking for a beach escape this summer but don’t want to have to compete for your slice of sand with the masses? Flight Centre has you covered with a handful of idyllic locales that have, until now, been blissfully overlooked.

Yonaha Maehama Beach, Japan Located in the southwest corner of remote Miyako Island, in southern Japan, this paradisiacal stretch of coast has been a closely guarded local secret but the increase in popularity of Okinawa among foreigners, a destination easily accessible from Hong Kong, has lifted the lid.

With over 7km of beach, you’ll easily find your own slice of heaven, with snorkeling, yachting and kiteboarding all popular activities.

An Bang, Vietnam Located just south of bustling Cua Dai, An Bang is about as pretty a stretch of coast as you can imagine, with turquoise seas reaching to the distant Cham Islands and beyond. Easily accessible from Danang, there’s pristine water, friendly locals, great beachfront restaurants

17 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong

serving the local favourite, chilli grilled squid, and plenty of great accommodation options in nearby Hoi An, ensuring you don’t have to fit all that sun-worshipping into just one day.

Weh Island, Aceh, Indonesia

trepid beach-bound travellers.

A great off the beaten path destination that was once closed to foreigners, Weh Island is a small volcanic atoll off the northwest coast of Sumatra and easily accessible from Banda Aceh. A well kept local secret, this is a great destination for divers, with a plethora of rare sea life to be discovered, as well as pristine beaches wreathed by swaying palm trees and coral reefs.

Rai Leh, Thailand A popular spot with rock climbers and only accessible by boat, Rai Leh boasts some of the

Shop 8B, 10 Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley, Hong Kong

66-68 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

most beautiful beaches in the Andaman Sea. There’s remote eco lodges and luxury resorts available so you won’t have to rough it, but the beautiful ocean vistas, welcoming locals and brilliant local cuisine make this a must for in-

Tioman Island, Malaysia Malaysia has more than its fair share of stunning beaches but Tioman Island, famed for its multi-hued coral gardens and rich marine life, is one of the country’s hidden gems. Whether you’re there looking for a stellar tan or in search of the rare butterflies, nesting turtles and resident monitor lizards, there’s a little something for everyone here. Located off the east coast of the Malay Peninsula and accessible from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, this is also a great spot for novice divers.

Shop G-15, 92 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay North Plaza, Lantau Island

Tel: 2830 2730 www.flightcentre.com.hk

70

HOTELIER

MOUNTAIN

PI O N E E R

WITH HIS CUBIST ROCKSRESORT, TECH-SAVVY RETO GURTNER IS AN OUT-OF-THE-BOX THINKER WHO IS TURNING THE ALPS HOTEL INDUSTRY ON ITS EAR. PHOTOGRAPHER Kerstin Zu Pan WRITER Tom Cunneff

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HOTELIER 71

B

ack in the mid-1990s when the World Wide Web was just getting going, Reto Gurtner was one of the first to recognise its potential and power. In 1995, he started Switzerland’s only travel website, laax.com. A year later, he opened the country’s first Internet café, before London even had one.

“Even though there was only a little bit of information available, I was convinced that it was the future,” he says. “It’s hard to believe that was just 20 years ago. Now nobody can think about not working with the internet.” Gurtner has always been on the cutting edge, quite literally in the case of his foray into hospitality, the rocksresort in Laax, Switzerland, one of the most original and innovative mixed-use hotel/condo complexes in the world. If you can envision 500 tons of 40-million-year-old quartzite stone as a building material, then you are starting to get a sense of Gurtner’s grandscale thought process. The stone, mined from a local quarry, has been cut and stacked, bricklike, to create the hotel resort’s eight freestanding cubist structures.

There’s nothing Swiss chalet about it. “We have enough chalets around here,” Gurtner says. “I wanted to make something different. I didn’t want to do it in a traditional way. I didn’t want to simply copy and paste. That has no value. We had to do something unique for the mountains, with unique materials that come from here.”

The oldest of three born to a butcher, Walter, and his wife, Lydia, Gurtner grew up in the Laax region. After developing a love for skateboarding and surfing culture while studying at UCLA in the early 1970s, he returned home to complete his studies, earning degrees in business and law from the universities of St. Gallen and Bern respectively. At 27 Gurtner inherited his father’s large meat-producing operation and ski-lift company and hotel. Together with his

brother he quickly moved to streamline the meat business while also expanding the lift and hotel operations.

In 2001, he opened Riders Palace, specifically targeted to young people with its functional, affordable, and ecological accommodations.

“The younger generation doesn’t need all the luxury,” Gurtner says. “I had three different classes, like in an airplane. I said, ‘Why shouldn’t we do that in the hotel?’ And it worked pretty well, actually.”

The lean, goateed Gurtner loves to challenge people’s concept of what is possible, which is not always easy in the traditional mountain culture. The hotel’s minimalist architecture, which encloses 122-hotel apartments and 85 hotel rooms, makes a staggering first impression, and is meant to echo the region’s geological history, particularly a massive rockslide that helped give birth to the area ten thousand years ago. Laced with technology, room keys double as lift tickets and are embedded with radio transmitters that automatically open the turnstile gates and charge guest’s accounts.

Gurtner loves the young for their youthful spirit, which he, always on the go and willing to try new things, still possesses. He’s an avid skier and snowboarder, naturally, but he also likes to mountain bike, golf, and ride motorcycles, particularly his 1954 Indian Chief.

However, he also remains very hands on, recently moving into a high tech penthouse at rocksresort that allows Gurtner to interact with his managers and employees, who, in the end, are the most important rocks of all.

“You have to nurture your biggest competitive advantage, which is your staff,” Gurtner says.

“Everybody can build bricks and mortar, but you need a good team. A soloist never has the same power as a symphony orchestra.”

Adapted from a story which originally ran in Design Hotels’ Made by Originals book. www.designhotels.com

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72

HOTEL REVIEW

MAYFAIR LADY

Nick Walton checks in at Claridge’s, one of London’s most historic and

luxurious hotels, to see how this iconic Grand Dame caters to today’s affluent traveller.

Background Few hotels in the British capital have the reputation of Claridge’s. Since Queen Victoria visited her friend Empress Eugenie of France at the hotel, Claridge’s has had links with royalty, heads of state and the celebrity set. The modern incarnation of the hotel, created by Harrods designer C.W.Stephens, opened its doors in 1898 and has since witnessed more than its fair share of history, from Winston Churchill declaring suite 212 Yugoslavian territory (complete with a clod of Yugoslavian earth under the bed) so Crown Prince Alexander II could be born on his own country’s soil, to Bulganin and Kruschev’s controversial Royal Suite www.jetsetter.hk

cocktail party in 1956 that was said to be so crowded that ‘buttons popped off jackets and wine was spilt on ladies' dresses’. Today it’s a home-away-from-home for powerbrokers and movers-and-shakers from across the globe.

The Room My Mayfair Suite, one of 203 rooms and 64 beautiful suites (signature suites designed by Diane Von Furstenberg and Veere Grenney are especially coveted), is a sumptuous Art Deco space that boasts original architectural features, including an ornate fireplace.

Bright and elegant, the suite’s bathroom is decked out in Italian marble and black and white tile, with Bamford amenities; there’s a

cavernous master bedroom with king-sized bed, and gently curving timber wardrobes (home to Burberry trench coats for guest use); and beyond, a beautifully-appointed sitting room with its own entrance. While there are modern touches, from flatscreen televisions to iPod docking stations, the suite is a beautiful preservation of an illustrious era in British history.

Happy Hour Just as popular as its suites are the hotel’s two cocktail bars, The Claridge’s Bar and The Fumoir. Claridge’s Bar is a popular enclave for hushed business gossip and has its own entrance from Davies Street. Home to an

exceptional list of vintage champagnes and sought-after spirits, the bar regularly works with craft spirit producers to introduce new flavours and products to their affluent and loyal clientele, while also maintaining an exclusive collection of now discontinued tipples.

HOTEL REVIEW 73

An icon of both mixology and the 1930s, The Fumoir is a small and exclusive hideaway off the hotel’s lobby that’s served the who’s who of London society for generations. Today, under a magnificent mirror etched by Basil Lonides, modern mixologists create homages to classic Prohibition-era concoctions, from swizzles, daisies, and crustas, to cups, sours, and juleps, all from original recipes, and served in Renee Lalique glasses.

Fine Dining Claridge’s signature dining experience is one Michelin-starred Fera, which was opened in 2014 by Simon Rogan, the innovative chef behind L’Enclume in Cartmel (where he holds two Michelin stars), and The French in Manchester. Driven by seasonal produce and exacting technical skill, Fera offers an unashamedly contemporary dining experience overseen by executive chef Dan Cox and restaurant director Raphael Rodriguez. Dishes are matched with an enviable wine list and are served amidst interiors by British designer Guy Oliver that fuse Art Deco elements with contemporary lines. For a truly spectacular dining experience, book well ahead for one of six seats at Aulis, the restaurant’s development table.

No visit to Claridge’s would be complete without enjoying the iconic Afternoon Tea. An English institution for 150 years, the coveted Afternoon Tea at Claridge’s includes a selection of over twenty teas curated by Henrietta Lovell of the Rare Tea Company, sourced from some of the oldest tea plantations in China, Sri Lanka, Africa, India and even the UK, and complimented by delicious finger sandwiches, warm scones and sweet pastries.

Find Your Zen One of Claridge’s best kept secrets is the David Linley-designed Map Room, a joyous hideaway at lobby level only open to hotel guests. With plenty of Art Deco accents, this serene space is great for travellers looking to read or hold an intimate meeting. While creating an ideal hideaway to read, relax, and be inspired, the Map Room marries the needs of modern travellers with the style and art deco flair for which Claridge’s is renowned.

Elegantly designed by internationally renowned British design workshop Linley, who has balanced sophistication and functional design with

technical innovation, the Map Room keeps business travellers in touch and ‘in the know’ however far from home they may be.

Alternatively, seek solace at Claridge’s Health Club & Spa, home to a comprehensive fitness centre and sumptuous Claridge’s beauty treatment rooms, a calm sanctuary where you can relax and emerge refreshed and rejuvenated. A menu of indulgent treatments, using Sisley spa products, includes massage rituals, facials, and beauty and anti-aging treatments.

Brook Street, Mayfair, London, United Kingdom; +44 20 7629 8860; www.claridges.co.uk www.jetsetter.hk

74

CORNWALL

CO R N I S H

COOL

A five-day road trip through Cornwall shows this rustic peninsula is redefining itself by offering luxurious touches to its colourful history, discovers

Gayatri Bhaumik.

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SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION 75 CORNWALL

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76

CORNWALL

T

he southwestern peninsula of Britain, Cornwall is probably best known for smugglers and mining. But amidst its wild landscapes, storybook villages, and myth-like history, this enchanting county is experiencing a renaissance. Chic boutique hotels, sumptuous fine-dining and other luxurious offerings are adding new elements to Cornwall’s contemporary charm, or so I discover on the first stop of a five-day roadtrip with my friend Nivi.

An idyllic property by the Helford River, Budock Vean blends old-world charm with 21st century luxe. Our cottage-feel Signature Room boasts soothing white and grey tones, Elemis amenities, and views of the onsite golf course. At the Natural Health Spa that afternoon, the Head in Heaven, a pampering back and face massage, has me nodding off in minutes. By evening, elegant guests – the dining room, refreshingly, has a dress code – are treated to decadent three-course meals packed with local produce, from pan-seared Falmouth Bay www.jetsetter.hk

scallops to perfectly cooked, locally-reared beef.

Early the next morning, we explore Helford River aboard the Hannah Molly, a traditional Cornish riverboat. This is a gorgeous spot of storied cottages and country inns hidden among vividly lush greenery, but the real drawcard is Frenchman’s Creek, the setting of Daphne du Maurier’s eponymous novel about debonair pirates. The wide swathe of water is calm and lined

(from top) Bodmin Moor; the grand façade Fowey Halll

PRIVATE LABEL EUROPEAN TOURS

SMALL GROUP LUXURY JOURNEYS Jetsetter has set an ultra high standard for luxury small group European travel. Jetsetter magazine is now taking reservations for our Private Label Luxury small group European Journeys, delivering the ultimate in superior comfort and impeccable personal service, all while touring some of Europe’s greatest and somewhat lesser known must visit cultural destinations, hotels, restaurants and high end boutiques.

With a maximum of 8 persons in a group, our intimate and personal service will make your stay, in the very best hotels and villas a true once in a lifetime experience. Our team at Jetsetter has access and insider knowledge in delivering unique, private and impressive itineraries. Jetsetter Private Label Tours are backed by the support and expertise of an experienced team of European luxury travel experts.

For further information and details of our Itinery email us at PrivateLabel@Jetsetter.hk or call +852 28557885

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CORNWALL

Pg78 (from top) sunset over Mawgan Porth Beach from the terrace at The Scarlet; look through the lounge towards the terrace at the Boskerris; tall ships in Charlestown harbour

Pg 79 (clockwise from top) the beach at St Ives; wine tastings at Camel Valley; a guest room at The Scarlet; Jamaica Inn at dusk

with untamed foliage, and while it’s bigger than one imagines, it’s still a place of serenity.

Leaving Helford, we drive north towards Fowey, stopping at the legendary harbour in Falmouth. Fringed by vast beaches and quaint Georgian houses, this was once a major British port. Today you’re more likely to see recreational yachts than cargo ships. After it stood in for Falmouth in the BBC’s hit TV show, Poldark, fans descend in masses on the nearby 18th century harbour of Charlestown. It’s certainly worth a photo op, but the real treat here is Tall Ships Creamery, considered home to some of the best ice cream in the United Kingdom.

Kenneth Grahame was a frequent visitor to Fowey Hall, and it’s said the property inspired Toad Hall in his children’s book, The Wind in the Willows. The charming country manor-style hotel is at once stately and comfortable. The big library is cosy, not imposing; the sitting room, with its lounges and fireplace is ideal for afternoon tea; while rooms are elegant and inviting, with vintage-inspired furnishings, plenty of creature comforts, and garden views.

The lord-of-the-manor feeling continues at dinner; in the elegant, adults-only dining room, an indulgent dinner begins with baked camembert, before moving on to hearty catch-of-the-day mains accompanied by intriguing local wine, and www.jetsetter.hk

CORNWALL 79

Offering dramatic cliff and ocean vistas from its perch above Magwan Porth beach, The Scarlet is a sophisticated, sustainable adults-only hotel. Our room is an airy, hi-tech space with a private balcony perfect for quiet morning coffees. A must-do indulgence, the spa’s clifftop hot tubs are a guest favourite; we laze here for an hour, enjoying some bubbly while watching the sky turn fiery shades of pink and orange as the sun dips below the horizon. The design-savvy restaurant here offers refined dishes laced with seasonal ingredients; the fresh, zesty Cornish crab and smoked salmon salad are real standouts.

The next morning, we get a taste of traditional Cornish charm as we mosey south along the coast, stopping at whim to explore. In the little village of St Agnes, locals sip coffee overlooking the dramatic cliff-fringed beach at Trevaunance Cove; later, we join visitors

finishing with sticky toffee pudding and Pedro Ximenez port.

Late the next morning, after a lazy breakfast and a meet-and-greet with Bramble, Fowey’ Hall’s resident pooch, we’re off to Camel Valley. Accessed by a dirt track, the winery is an unlikely proposition, but since 1989 the vineyard has been producing award-winning wines and now counts the royals and chefs Rick Stein and Raymond Blanc as fans. With a panoramic backdrop of lush vineyards and verdant hills, and few people around to spoil the experience, a visit to Camel Valley is an oenophile’s delight.

A bottle of Cornwall’s finest in hand, we head for one of the area’s most famous destinations. A historic coaching house, Jamaica Inn is best known as the setting of another eponymous Daphne du Maurier novel. The author’s stay here, in 1930, inspired her tale of a smuggler gang led by the inn’s wicked landlord. It still operates as an inn, but these days the property trades off the legends associated with its name. The onsite Smuggler’s Museum offers great insight into this side of Cornish history, while bibliophiles will appreciate the comprehensive Daphne du Maurier display. After a refreshing pint of Rattler’s Cider in the back garden, we continue through the wilds of Bodmin Moor. www.jetsetter.hk

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CORNWALL

Mevagissey Harbour

wandering through the small boutiques and Tate gallery offshoot at St Ives.

St Ives has its charms, but its tourist crowds and impossible roads can spoil stays here, so tonight’s stop is the Boskerris, a small boutique hotel located five minutes away in Carbis Bay. Thoroughly modernised in 2004 by the Bassett family, this contemporary property is a charming bolthole done up in relaxed New Englandinspired style. Our rooms are calming oases of whites, greys and blues, with White Company amenities and well-stocked tea trays. As the sun sets, guests gather on the expansive terrace for drinks, then move to the dining room for dinner. The Boskerris focuses on unfussy menus bolstered by quality ingredients from small local producers; the result is simple, delectable fare – like the particularly memorable pâté - in keeping with the hotel’s laid-back feel. www.jetsetter.hk

Bent on enjoying our last morning, we drive the coastal road south, then west, towards Penzance. The route meanders through the heart of Cornwall, past tiny hamlets, and its mining heritage. We stumble across Carn Galver, a prehistoric crag that housed a small tin mine during the Victorian era, and Levant Mine, a Natural Trust site that was also used as a Poldark filming location.

It’s a rugged landscape where the restored steam engine and mine sit amidst untamed wilds and sweeping coastal views.

Cornwall has countryside charm in spades, but it’s clear the peninsula is redefining itself. Visitors have long been drawn to Cornwall’s captivating history, rural pleasures, and legends, and by striving for excellence in hospitality, food and drinks, and leisure offerings, the area is endearing itself to discerning visitors.

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TURNING LEFT

S i l ky S e r v i ce The Flight

Pleasant senior staff take care of the 20

business class passengers with finesse and smiles, serving glasses of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label champagne and hot towels while the captain confirms a flight time of 2 hours and 45 minutes (although we end up 30 minute delayed due to strong winds).

Crew also take lunch orders before we began to taxi. Thai hasn’t caught up with the many carriers who now allow the use of small personal electronic devices during takeoff, and the entertainment system didn’t start until well after takeoff, which was a shame for such a short flight. When it did, I opted to use my own noise reduction headphones with an adapter as the airline’s set looks very worn.

Dining

Despite poor seat design, Thai Airways’ acclaimed service saves the day on a recent flight to Bangkok, finds Nick Walton Check-In/The Lounge I check in online before arriving at Hong Kong Station, and catch the Airport Express, before making my way to the Royal Orchid Lounge near gate 40. The lounge is a great space; serene, well maintained, with a comprehensive hot and cold buffet, plenty of seating, and a fully stocked bar. It’s almost empty during my visit. An hour later I board the A380, finding my seat on a similarly empty top deck.

The Plane Thai Airways offers a three-class configuration on its A380, with 12 Royal First seats at the front of the top deck; 60 Royal Silk business seats, also on the top deck, in two cabins (48 and 12 seats respectively); and 435 economy class seats across the main deck and rear of the top deck. Each business class seat is 20.9-inches wide and has a pitch of 43-44-inches.

Despite a 1-2-1 configuration, it feels like Thai Airways has really packed its lie-flat www.jetsetter.hk

Solstys business class seats in and my initial excitement evaporates as I sit down; there’s a narrow gap (30cm) through which passengers must slip to reach their purple and pink seat, complete with its restrictive three point seatbelt.

For every plus I find there seems to be a negative; while window seats offer the most storage, the windowsill compartment is so close to the armrest and its latch so weak I open it by accident no less than 60 times during the flight. The ample yet ugly tray table bolted to the seat in front, as if an afterthought, has a hinge that juts out where my stretched legs should be in bed mode. Fortunately it does pivot towards the monitor, making it easier to step from the seat. There’s a great shelf for drinks and the headphone and AC jacks are easy to reach, but the two USB ports are under the main monitor, meaning charging devices need to rest perilously at the seat end. I have serious doubts about the comfort of the seat in bed configuration, especially with a tight recess for feet.

Lunch starts with salmon gravlax, which is refreshingly simple but ice cold, plate, garnish and all. This is followed by a choice of braised beef stew with grainy mustard, tarragon brown sauce, mashed potatoes, roast pumpkin and yellow zucchini; stir-fried seafood with shiitake mushrooms, preserved chilli bean curd, egg fried rice and pak choy; deep fried marinated pork with sweet and sour sauce and steamed rice; and chicken curry kiew-wan with rice. The pork is delicious but its plating looks very economyish. I skip the offered raspberry mousse cake and opt for another glass of champagne instead.

Entertainment The 15.4-inch monitor is built into the seatback in front and seems to pick up glare from any available light source, despite both window shades being lowered. Thai offers a good selection of recent releases and classics and doesn’t restrict the menu due to the short flight time like some carriers.

Summary Thai is famous for its quality service, which is a saving grace when flying in an overly ambitious and poorly designed seat. Hong Kong-Bangkok return in business from HK$5,920 (US$763) per person. www.thaiairways.com Note: The author travelled on a fully-paid business class ticket without the airline’s knowledge

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TURNING LEFT

TAKING THINGS TO THE NEXT LEVEL SriLankan Airlines takes luxury to new levels with its enhanced A330-300 business class between Colombo and Hong Kong, finds Nick Walton.

Check-In/The Lounge I arrived at the airport two hours early for my 7am departure for Hong Kong, having already checked-in online. SriLankan staff member Thilini was handling several difficult passengers, who were demanding upgrades, with professionalism and much more patience than I would have. After dropping off my bags I made for the Serendib Lounge, located one level up form security. This is a great space, with a selfservice bar and great dining selection, even so early in the morning, as well as showers and a sleeping room.

onboard We boarded at gate 7, with business class passengers enjoying reserved gate seating. Despite an on-time boarding call many passengers arrived very late, delaying the flight. Crew served glasses of fruit juice and hot towels, taking orders for brunch as they waited for stragglers.

SriLankan’s newest aircraft, the A330-300 features a modern reverse herringbone business class product in a 1-2-1 configuration with 28 lie-flat beds across seven rows. The cabin is clean and fresh, with exotic flares of teal calmed by dominant cream; it has that lovely new car feel. Each 21-inch wide seat features a USB port, 110v AC power, entertainment controller and seat controller easily accessible on a shoulder-height panel. My window seat had plenty of privacy, an ample cocktail shelf, and a large 15.4-inch touch-screen personal monitor which hinges into the seatback in front and offers access to a very adequate collection of English-language films and television programs as well as plenty of Sri Lankan content. SriLankan also offers in-air connectivity, priced between US$5 and US$15 for 6-20MB.

Dining For the first of our two meals on this two sector flight to Hong Kong, we were presented with seasonal fresh fruit, with homemade yoghurt.

A crossiant, matched with a cheeky glass of champagne and a cup of black spiced chai tea from the airline’s extensive menu, was followed

www.jetsetter.hk

by a choice of a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast of milk rice and dry chicken curry; poached eggs on an English muffin with lamb sausage; or a cheese and spinach omelet. The omelet was cooked perfectly and was served with chicken sausage and stuffed tomatoes.

After the quick three hour hop to Bangkok we were served lunch; ratatouille timbale with grilled zucchini followed by a choice of chicken and cashew stir-fry; peppered red snapper with shitake mushrooms and steamed rice; beef stroganoff; or mushroom stir-fried noodles in oyster sauce. The chicken with cashew, egg fried rice and Asian vegetables was a true winner, as was its plating, a far cry from the economy-on-atray plating found in many business class cabins today. I matched lunch with a gin and tonic made with local Sri Lankan craft gin. Soon after we began our on-time decent into Hong Kong.

service Despite the flight being broken into short sectors, both crews were world-class. Cabin attendants were welcoming, efficient, charming, attentive and always ready to chat about your impressions of Sri Lanka and offer recommendations for your return visit. They are, in many ways, the backbone of the SriLankan experience and one of the reasons the airline continues to impress.

Summary I’ve always liked SriLankan Airlines; the tiny unassuming carrier puts people first with a business class offering that might be light on gimmicks but is heavy on personalised service. The new business class product puts the airline on par with any other in the region.

Hong Kong-Colombo return in business class from HK$6,969 (US$897) per person, including taxes. www.srilankan.com Note: The author travelled on a fully-paid business class ticket with the airline’s knowledge

LIFESTYLE

SUMMER

OF JOE MR BLACK ARRIVES IN ASIA

ALAN WONG’S

SHANGHAI LUAU

LUGGAGE’S DIGITAL AGE

TECH’S

SHARP SHOOTERS

BENTLEY BLACK EDITION

SUN LOVIN’ LOTIONS

86

FOOD ADVENTURES

FEEL THE

SPICE For centuries, ginger has been used as much as a herbal cure as it has a fragrant spice in the kitchen. Today, this humble healer showcases its versatility in travel experiences the world over. By Crystal Leung

www.jetsetter.hk

FOOD ADVENTURES 87

O

pen daily with free entry, The Ginger Factory on the Sunshine Coast of Australia is a one-stop ginger destination. Start off with The Factory Tour, which allows visitors to see how ginger is grown and harvested, before hopping onboard the popular ginger train “Moreton” for a delightful journey around a subtropical garden. Don’t forget to stop by The Ginger Shop, which boasts a large selection of locally-made Buderim ginger products. www.gingerfactory.com.au

L

adies looking to luxuriate in style will love the Glace

Ginger Sugar Smoother treatment at Spicer’s Tamarind Retreat nearby. A luxurious skin warming spa ritual designed to revitalise skin to a silky smoothness with the tantalising benefits of glace ginger, this sensory spa ritual begins with a deeply exfoliating full body scrub with organic cane sugar, pure ginger, lemongrass and mint layered with a nourishing blend of omega oils and vitamin E. Once skin is rejuvenated to a youthful smoothness, relax with a nutrient rich hydration full body massage to deeply nourish and melt away muscle tension. www.spicersretreats.com

F

or a spicy kick to your nightcap in Montreal, Canada,

head over to Lab on Rachel Street East, home to a range of alluring cocktails laced with homemade Hell’s Ginger Syrup. Try the signature Play Your D.T.O, a concoction of Plantation Barbados' five year old rum, lime juice and ginger syrup, or tease your taste bud with the English Breakfast, made from orange bitters, lemon, ginger syrup, hot water, St. Germain liqueur, and Bombay Sapphire East gin. For a non-alcoholic option, pick the Buffalo Fizz with cucumber, lemon and seltzer. www.barlelab.com

T

hanks to its tangy, spicy and refreshing flavours, ginger has been widely used as an ingredient in cooking, especially in Japan, where popular pork

dish Shogayaki, thin-sliced pork with soy sauce, sake and a dash of mirin is laced with locally grown ginger. At

Honoji Ebisu , perched in the entertainment hub of Shibuya in Tokyo, not only can you savour this time-honoured Japanese ffavourite, but also have the chance to sample an array of Shōchūs, sakes, beers and wines from the extensive beverage menu. www.ebisu.honoji.com www.jetsetter.hk

88

CHEF PROFILE

KEEP IT SIMPLE Helming one of the most ambitious kitchens to open in Hong Kong this year, New Zealand chef James Cornwall taps into his rural upbringing and his passion for fresh ingredients to create sublimely simple seafood dishes at Causeway Bay’s Seafood Room. By Nick Walton

www.jetsetter.hk

CHEF PROFILE 89

You recently moved to Hong Kong from London. What are your first impressions?

but I think what Seafood Room brings is an

It’s great! So much going on and everyone has

their seafood and how they want it prepared.

interactive seafood experience with stunning surroundings. We have a live shellfish market and fish market on ice where customers can pick

been so supportive and friendly; I’ve made a good network of friends already.

You’ve worked at some leading seafood restaurants, including Seafood Room, the first Hong London’s J Sheekey. What is it Kong restaurant by the Bulldozer about fish and seafood that draws Group, opened in late April; is the out your creativity? concept where it should be?

Seafood is so versatile; it can be light and We are growing every week and also seeing

refreshing in summer or rich and hearty on a

a lot of familiar faces so we must being doing

cold day. I enjoy the challenges of relying on the

something right. Our guests have been very

weather for every day’s catch and working with

forthcoming in trying things from the market in

the seasons to create my menus.

different ways, which is what we wanted.

How important is sustainability, to You grew up in Ashburton, a small chefs and to the consumer? farming town in New Zealand. Executive chefs are in a position to change What did your upbringing instil in people's eating habits. By using sustainable seafood we are able to guide consumers into your cooking style?

Growing up I was surrounded by great produce

responsible choices.

and learnt from an early age to appreciate what you have. It also taught me that great produce doesn't need much to make it shine.

What’s your culinary philosophy?

Cooking is expression like art or music so it takes

What’s lacking in the Hong Kong culinary scene?

Female head and executive chefs; I'm sure in the next few years this will change, there are just so many talented female chefs out there.

passion and that needs to show through in your cooking. I like to work with quality ingredients and offer simple and honest cooking that tastes good and reflects the changing seasons.

What does Seafood Room bring to the Hong Kong market that we didn’t already have?

Hong Kong has a great restaurant scene already

What’s one dish on the Seafood Room menu we can’t miss?

Langoustine tartare 26/F, Tower 535, 535 Jaffe Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 3708 9668; www. seafoodroom.hk

www.jetsetter.hk

90

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Caution:

C hef I n Action

At Tsukitaki, the freshest produce meets sophisticated teppanyaki techniques to create delicious dishes hot fresh from the iron griddle. By Crystal Leung

I

f you’re looking for a hidden confine

raw fish, the restaurant also boasts a variety of

is cooked medium before being diced for

where you can savour premium cuts

mouth-watering appetizers, including deep fried

degustation.You can either dip it into the sesame

of Wagyu beef, you can’t go past Hong

soft bone chicken.

sauce with white or black pepper, or add a tiny

Kong’s newest teppanyaki restaurant,

amount of yuzu pepper on the cube and top it

which has opened on the eighth floor of The

We can’t hide our excitement when restaurant

with a Japanese garlic chip for a tangy flavour.

Loop, located in the heart of Central. With a

manager and chef Arthur Li, formerly executive

To truly relish its original essence, we suggest

distinctive industrial-chic persona, Tsukitaki’s

chef of Inkaya at the International Commerce

simply enjoying it undressed. Its succulence

expansive dining room caters to only 40 diners

Centre, presents our next dish: cod marinated

and tenderness is instantly smile-inducing.

and includes a sushi bar, two teppanyaki bars,

with saikyo miso. After watching him wield

and a few tables for a la carte dining.

his teppanyaki scrapes with elegance and

Rounding off the teppanyaki journey is a bowl

sophistication, we’re pampered with perfectly-

of Inaniwa udon with vegetables in soup,

Although there’s an extensive menu, we opt

seared fish with fresh vegetables on the side.

followed by a homemade almond pudding. On

for the “omakase” menu, leaving everything to

The cod is juicy and delicious, with a burst of

the beverage list is an array of sakes, Japanese

the whims of the chefs. We start with sashimi,

miso flavour in every morsel.

wines, shochu and whiskies, but if none of

a combination of jet-fresh salmon, red tuna,

these are your thing, the famed Lan Kwai Fong

scallop and flounder, imported from Japan

This is followed by the main character of the

precinct is only a stone’s throw away. 8/F, The

daily, that’s beautifully presented and makes for

show: A5 Wagyu beef sirloin steak - the best

Loop, 33 Wellington Street, Central, Hong

a perfect palate cleanser. If you’re not a fan of

of its kind - from Saga Prefecture. The steak

Kong; +852 2801 6810

www.jetsetter.hk

RESTAURANT REVIEW 91

ALAN WONG’S SHANGHAI IS A BOLD YET REFINED EATERY THAT’S HELPING REDEFINE HAWAIIAN CUISINE IN THE FAR EAST, FINDS NICK WALTON.

T

he first thing you do when arriving at Alan Wong’s Shanghai is forget any notions of what a Hawaiian restaurant might look like in Shanghai. Save for soft Hawaiian ballads piped in through discrete speakers, there’s very little that would indicate a tiki-inclination – there’s no grass shirts, no coconut bras, no towering cocktails with rainforests for garnish, and no swaying palm trees. It’s quite a pleasant way to start one of the city’s coolest culinary journeys.

It might be a little ironic that Obama’s go-to-guy for modern Hawaiian cuisine would open his first international venture in communist China, but the chic Manhattan-esque restaurant, located at the Ritz-Carlton Portman, does have touches of the US President’s down to earth sophistication. Greeted by charming staff, (including manager Kevin Zhao, formerly of Fish & Meet and Mott 32 in Hong Kong) we were guided to a deep-set booth at the centre of a dining room dressed in dark chocolate with an open kitchen to one side and a raw bar to the other. While there are touches of colour on the peripherals, the low slung ceiling and muted lighting sets the scene for classic cocktails and discrete conversation.

We kick off with homemade charcoal bread with a tangy aioli, matched with our waitress Jessica’s recommendation, a Mai Tai made with house Falernum, lime, pineapple, and rum; and a Spiced Cucumber Smash with gin and Thai chilli, both of which were an instant trip to the islands.

We hit the Raw Bar menu with gusto; the Hawaiian Style Shoyu Ahi Poke with Ginger was beautifully refreshing and zesty, with plump pieces of bright red tuna with a lovely ginger zing; while the Ahi “Martini” with truffle ponzu was like a Hawaiian take on the shrimp cocktail, with a brilliant texture to the tuna and an elegant creaminess from the avocado.

The innovative “Soup and Sandwich” dish, a chilled tomato gazpacho

served in a martini glass and topped with wafer-tin Kalua pig and foie grass cheese toast is the kind of dish people go to war over; while the Shrimp and U.S. Pork Hash Dumplings, with their subtle sambal emulsion, were plump and delicate yet sating, especially when matched with another winner, the Tomato, Beet, and Avocado Salad, with its terrific Li Hing Mui dressing made from plum dust.

We staggered into the mains only to be floored by “Da Bag”: lobster, abalone, shredded Kalua pork, spinach, Andouille sausage, cooked en papillote in a rich truffle butter sauce. There is ceremony to tearing open this steaming foil bag of goodness; expect plenty of envious stares from fellow diners.

We’re not usually dessert lovers but this is a Hawaiian joint so we knew they would be special and Wong, channelled through Chicago-born chef de cuisine Beth Cosgrove, delivered in the form of the playful Pineapple “Shave Ice”, with Madagascar vanilla panna cotta; and visually stunning “The Coconut”, coconut sorbet encased in a chocolate shell, presented with seasonal fruits and a passion fruit sauce that made the all-time best dessert list.

Alan Wong’s Shanghai isn’t the cheapest option in the city, but with years of refinement, precise execution and interiors that make you want to settle in for the evening, it’s a lot cheaper than a flight to The Aloha State. 2nd Floor of Shanghai Centre, The Portman Ritz-Carlton, 1376 Nanjing Road West, Shanghai, China; +86 21 6289 0618; www.alanwongs.com www.jetsetter.hk

92

TOP TABLES The first Asia venue by Russia’s Bulldozer Group,

Seafood Room

is Hong Kong’s newest

luxury dining destination, with an expansive main dining room created by Russian architect Natalia Belonogova boasting a curated art collection with pieces by Oscar-winning actor Adrian Brody; a deep-set terrace; and a captivating rooftop space with views across Victoria Harbour. Located in Causeway Bay, the Seafood Room serves jet fresh seafood – including an innovative ice-encrusted market stall where diners can choose their own fish –prepared by New Zealand-executive chef James Cornwall (read more about James on pg 88). Highlights of the Med and South Americaninspired menu include contemporary takes on sashimi; warm octopus salad with potato, capers and smoked paprika; and whole salt-baked sea bass. www.seafoodroom.hk

For diners looking to capitalise on Hong Kong’s wafer-thin wine tax,

Figaro has opened in NoHo, wedged between

Gough Street and Hollywood Road. The city’s first French gastro-wine bar, this chic neighbourhood haven dishes up fine food and fabulous wine across its ground floor bar and upstairs dining room. Created by two friends determined to bring the authentic flavours of the Mediterranean to Hong Kong, the Shin Hing Street eatery’s cellar features over 2,200 bottles, sourced from France’s famous Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Rhone Valley wine regions.

Monthly wine tasting workshops offer punters a chance to swat up on their regional varieties, before they match their favourite vino with delectable dishes from chef Jonathan Irwin. Signature morsels include langoustine tartare with cucumber consommé; Iberic pluma with fried Jersualem artichokes; and traditional French cheese or charcuterie platters, perfect for grazing over a glass of boutique wine. www.figaro.com.hk

Helmed by Australian chef Rishi Naleendra,

Cheek by Jowl has opened on Singapore’s Boon Tat Street, serving up modern Australian fare that combines cultures and traditions on the plate. Replacing local icon Sorrel, Cheek

by Jowl features a main dining room dressed in warm, earthy tones where both lunch and dinner menus are offered, the latter with a strong focus on sharing. Seasonal dishes are laced with Asian influences, a throwback to Naleendra’s time working at Tetsuya’s in Sydney. Look out for the likes of fresh oysters with smoked tomato; duck confit with chili caramel and five-spice served on crisp waffles; and wild venison with wasabi and zucchini. www.cheekbyjowl.com.sg

www.jetsetter.hk

TOP TABLES Singapore’s iconic

93

Saint Pierre has moved

to One Fullerton with a new set-menu approach that returns Belgian chef Emmanuel Stroobant to his fine-dining roots. Formerly home to the Butter Factory nightclub, the 2,000sqft space caters to just 30 diners, allowing a much more intimate dining experience. Saint Pierre will now offer two menus for lunch and two six-course and two tencourse menus at dinner; expect classic Stroobant innovation with plenty of Asian inspiration, from milk rice and cacao to Japanese momotaro tomatos, tonka beans, and kaffir lime leaves, combined with classic European fare, from Guinea fowls with morels and white asparagus, to poached lobster with preserved truffle. www.saintpierre.com.sg

One of the sexiest bars to open in Hong Kong in years,

Ophelia has arrived in Wan Chai as the first bar concept by restaurant group Dining Concepts. Guests pass through Mr Wong’s exotic bird boutique, once a local icon, into a sumptuous space dressed in green and gold, with intricate leather and metal work framed by a cocktail bar bathed in warm light. With hand-painted peacock feathers, swaying curtains and over 60,000 shimming tiles, Ophelia is a place where the line between fantasy and reality is blissfully blurred, thanks to captivating designs by Australian Ashley Sutton, the creative mind behind revered watering holes like Maggie Choo’s and Iron Fairies. Part dreamscape, part opium den, part ode to Mr Wong’s most prized possession, a Javanese peacock, the bar flows through to a metal-lined covered terrace, home to an oversized bird cage that plays a role in nightly performances by a resident troupe. Look out for innovative cocktails like the Cheongasm - tequila, pomegranate, La Quintinye Vermouth, and citrus - served in an LED-lit bird cage; and modern tapas by Australian chef Angus Harrison. www.diningconcepts.com

Nestled in the trendy neighbourhood of Sai Ying Pun, on Hong Kong Island,

Pig Bistro

The Flying

is a creative collaboration

between co-founder Christopher Przemyski and Hong Kong-based artist Malcolm Golding.

Specializing in quality European comfort food with a strong focus on its namesake swine, including tasty pork knuckle, crispy suckling pig, and juicy pork chops, the bistro is the latest addition to the French Creations stable and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. As well as its porcine signature dishes, comfortfood sides and desserts also feature on the menu. www.flyingpigbistro.hk

www.jetsetter.hk

94

MINIBAR

THE BOLD &

FROM CAPTIVATING NEW SPIRITS THIS IS WHAT WE’ RE POURING

Brockman’s Intensely Smooth Premium Gin is a beautifully-made modern

For a gin to remember,

spirit that adds a touch of daring to gin cocktails in time for summer. With a unique combination of botanicals that includes Bulgarian coriander, bitter sweet Murcian orange peel, ripe blueberries and blackberries, almonds and orris, as well as juniper from Tuscany, Brockmans is made with a steeping distillation process, conducted in antique copper stills, that ensures a bold yet supple finish quite unlike any other gin. Look for touches of strawberry, hibiscus and raspberry on the nose, followed by gingerbread and angelica, and a distinct, robust sweetness to the finish. Oh, and the black and red bottle is pretty eye catching too! http://brockmansgin.com

www.jetsetter.hk

True cocktail connoisseurs can now rejoice as Absolut Elyx, the first ever luxury vodka, has officially launched in Hong Kong.

Named Best Vodka, Double Gold, at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Absolut Elyx is made exclusively from single-estate hand-selected wheat, which is distilled during a unique copper distillation process at Absolut’s old distillery in Åhus (although the first distillation is actually done at Absolut's newer distillery in Nobbelov) that pulls out impurities, giving the resulting spirit its highly prized silky texture and taste thanks to stills that date from 1921. You’ll find a dominant wheat flavor in this pedigree vodka, as well as touches of grapefruit and lime, with hints of spice, butterscotch and caramel on the smooth clean finish. All this goodness is then presented in a beautiful Art Deco-esque copper accented bottle created in a collaboration between The Brand Union and No Picnic that will ensure this vodka takes pride of place in your home bar. www.absolut.com/hk/AbsolutElyx/

Vodka fans should look out for the new eye-catching Ketel

One 325 Year Commemorative Bottle

created to mark 325 years of distilling excellence at the Nolet Distillery, where the iconic vodka is produced. The special limited-edition bottle portrays the family’s history in an exclusive elaborate design; dressed in copper matte plating as a nod to the important role copper pot distillation plays in creating Ketel One Vodka, the savvy vessel is decorated with 11 coins, representing each of the 11 generations of Nolet distillers, as well as the Nolet family crest, and the signatures of both 11th generation distillers, Carl Nolet Jr. and Bob Nolet. An ironwork-inspired design signifies the real-life ironwork featured above the distillery’s main entrance. The bottle will be showcased at leading bars and hotels around Hong Kong as part of anniversary celebrations. www.ketelone.com

MINIBAR 95

THE BEAUTIFUL to homages of classic SPIRITS PAST, THIS SUMMER. BY NICK WALTON

Popcorn Sutton Distilling of Newport, Tennessee has released its first brown spirit – a limited edition, 92 proof, charred oak barrel finished tipple dubbed

Popcorn Sutton Barrel Finished. In an ode to legendary bootlegger Marvin “Popcorn” Sutton, who would sometimes “barrel finish” some of his finest small batch products to later share at special events or to give as gifts, Popcorn Sutton Barrel Finished has already won a gold medal at the 2015 Global American Whiskey Masters competition. Finished for more than three years in new American oak casks with a hearty #3 char, Popcorn Sutton Barrel Finished is a complex and smooth spirit with a rich, deep brown colour that will appeal to collectors of craft spirits. It contains no caramel colouring, and like Popcorn Sutton’s Original Small Batch Recipe, not a drop of grain neutral spirit. www.popcornsutton.com

If you’re travelling to merry old London town and like your gin, you’ll want to look out for Portobello

Road

No 17, the only London Dry Gin in the premium category to win the top ranking ‘Master’ accolade in last year’s Global Gin Masters competition. A championship-level craft spirit and homage to London’s gin distilling heritage, Portobello Road features an unashamedly juniper-heavy profile, with touches of bitter citrus and hints of sweet liquorice that lends itself perfectly to long gin cocktails under the summer sun. Created by award-winning Notting Hill bar Portobello Star, home to London’s own Ginsitute, Portobello uses traditional botanicals and spices to create a traditional gin with a clean, modern presentation.

Expect fresh citrus and lime on the nose, with touches of spice, and a clean palate with instant freshness. Each bottle comes individually numbered and signed by the proprietors. www.portobelloroadgin.com

A whisky for true collectors, and one now available in Asia through BEV,

Slyrs Pedro Ximenez Finish Edition No. 3 is a single malt from Bavaria’s whisky pioneers. Made with the finest Bavarian cereals and alpine spring water, and aged in new American white oak barrels, the spirit is then allowed to soak up the sweet goodness of 60 year old Pedro Ximenez sherry casts for up to nine months, taking on the unforgettable aroma and tannin that won it the 2014 World Whisky Award Best European Single Malt as well as the 2015 San Francisco World Spirits Gold Medal. With cedar, mahogany and black tea, as well as faint cigar smoke and hints of old leather, this truly special tipple displays notes of toffee apple on the nose and of burnt sugar, cherries and baked apple on the finish. www.veb.hk

www.jetsetter.hk

96

SPIRITS

SUMMER

OF JOE CREATORS OF A BOLD NEW AUSTRALIAN CRAFT SPIRIT PLAN TO CHANGE THE WAY WE LOOK AT THE HUMBLE COFFEE LIQUEUR. BY NICK WALTON

A

sk any bartender (or barista for that matter) worth their salt what the biggest trends are for the summer ahead and be assured they’ll mention coffee. Cold press, organic, espresso, nitro, infusions – this is undoubtedly the Summer of Joe, and at the forefront of this hand-trembling trend is award-winning Australian craft spirit Mr Black. Created by self-confessed java junkies designer Tom Baker and distiller Philip Moore, Mr Black is an unashamedly modern homage to Australia’s love affair with two things: alcohol and coffee. www.jetsetter.hk

“In Australia the only thing we take more seriously than the quality of our drinks is the quality of our coffee,” says Tom, who recently launched Mr Black in Hong Kong at Sai Ying Pun’s Winstons Coffee. “So we combined the two in a bottle.”

Black as ink and packing a hefty coffee punch that’s more real deal than syrupy sweetness, Mr Black is the result of a successful crowd funding campaign, nine months of work and 240 trials. Made from specialty arabica coffee beans from Ethiopia, Brazil and Papua New Guinea chosen for their distinctive flavours, the beans are then cold extracted over 12

hours to produce a full-flavoured coffee without the acidity and eye-squinting bitterness of an espresso. A 250kg basket press ‘acquired’ from a winery extracts the face-slappingly rich liquid from inside the coffee infusion, which is then blended with Australian grain spirit from a Central Coast distillery (one of only 22 in Australia) that allows the authentic coffee flavours to shine through.

Produced in 300 bottle batches, this is the epitome of contemporary craft distilling and the result is a liqueur that’s silky yet robust, bitter, yet balanced. A gold medal winner at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London, Mr Black is beautifully presented in equally robust bottles that feature a striking ‘night owl’ design by Australian artist Dale Bigeni that reveals itself as the contents are enjoyed.

Crafted to be drunk over ice, Mr Black lends itself to a host of both classic and contemporary cocktails, but is designed not simply as an ingredient but as a show stealer in its own right. “This isn’t your average coffee liqueur,” says Tom. “This is the real thing, finally.” Expect all the beautiful flavours of a great cup of coffee, from chocolate and caramel notes to touches of citrus and toffee, making it ideal in an espresso martini, an old fashioned, a (only slightly) caffeinated negroni, or over ice with a lemon twist. www.mrblack.co

98

WINE

I

n October 2015, a blind tasting organised by Noble Rot magazine saw two English sparkling wines (Hambledon Classic Cuvee and Nyetimber Classic Cuvee 2010) triumph over several classic French champagnes (including Pol Roger and Taittinger). More recently, in April 2016, British wine expert and author Matthew Jukesorganised a blind tasting for 14 professionals from the trade at the Juveniles restaurant in Paris. Nine of the 14 member panel thought the Nyetimber 2009 sparkling was better than the Billecart-Salmon Grand Cru champagne, while half of the blind tasters thought the Gusborne Rose was in fact a champagne.

The United Kingdom has always been a strong consumer of wine but it has only been in the past few years that the nation has begun to develop its own small domestic wine industry. The last two years have seen record vintages with an average production of five million bottles per year, which is set to grow to 10 million bottles by 2020.

The increasingly warm climate plus the chalky soils of England are ideal conditions for making sparkling wine. Even some French commentators agree there is future potential, with champagne giant Taittinger recently purchasing 170 acres of countryside in Kent.

English Wines Begin to Sparkle Though many consumers around the world have yet to fully experience them, sparkling wines from Merry Old England are beginning to take the main stage in the world of bubbles, says Rickesh Kishnani. www.jetsetter.hk

The challenge? Perception. Champagne as a category is deeply entrenched in the world of luxury. Whether producers of English sparkling wines draw enough demand from consumers without offering heavy discounts still remains to be seen. Both Nyetimber and Gusborne have gone through makeovers of their packaging in the past few years to appeal to a more affluent consumer.

According to industry title The Drinks Business, the British government has recently put its faith into English sparkling wine, making Ridgeview (served at the state banquet to welcome Chinese President Xi Jinping) and Chapel Down the official suppliers for 10 Downing Street instead of the much-loved traditional drop, Champagne.

Perhaps if it’s good enough for the Prime Minister of the United Kingdom and the President of China‌it's worth giving it a try?

100

BEAUTY TRAVEL

LO VI N ’ T H E

SUNSHINE Summer is the time to go outdoors and enjoy nature’s blessing but don’t forget to apply these newly launched sun-loving lotions to prevent damage from overindulgence. By Crystal Leung

Suitable for even the most sensitive skin, the new SPF

30 Mineral Sunscreen Fluid for Face

by Clinique is a lightweight, nonacnegenic solution that offers an

invisible protection from environmental aggressors. This all-mineral sunscreen features Invisible Shield Technology, made from titanium dioxide, which helps block UVB and UVA rays from penetrating skin as well as creating a

strong barrier against environmental damage that can contribute to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Easily absorbed, this non-greasy

The new Daily Light Guard by Aveda is a 100 percent mineral-derived SPF 30 sunscreen that helps protect skin against UVA and UVB rays. Its organic kukui seed oil can strengthen skin, creating a powerful protection from environmental damage, while a plant-based anti-oxidant blend of rice bran, rosemary extract, organic ginger and vitamin E possesses the ability to neutralise harmful free radicals. Make sure to apply this silky solution as the final step of your morning skincare routine 15 minutes before greeting the bright sun. www.aveda.com

Origins has introduced its new

Mega-Defense SPF 45 Advanced UV Defender, which helps protect skin from UV rays, pollutants and environmental attacks while building up the skin’s natural defences. Discovered in Brazil, opuntia cactus – the feature ingredient in the new solution – helps deliver moisture to skin, while zinc oxide and titanium

create an oil-free shield that blocks UVA and UVB rays. This lightweight daily protector also boasts the ability to combat free radicals, and is infused with tuberose, jasmine, rose and bitter

fluid can be worn by itself or beneath

orange essential oils that guarantee to

makeup. www.clinique.com

refresh your senses. www.origins.com

www.jetsetter.hk

102

WISHLIST

THE ROYAL PICNIC

Fine dining can be taken to the great outdoors with this elegant Aston Martin picnic hamper. Designed for two diners, the wicker hamper houses a range of English fine bone china crockery, two sets of stainless steel cutlery, two napkins and one tablecloth in Irish damask linen. Of course there’s also two lead-free crystal champagne flutes and a duo of tumblers, as well as an essential rosewood and stainless steel corkscrew. All 28 components are fastened tight inside the hamper with handcrafted rich saddle leather, in the hue of your choosing, and can be presented on a 100 percent Scottish lambswool roll-up rug, ensuring your al fresco gastronomic experience is both elegant and comfortable. From GBP1,950 (US$2,213). www.grantmacdonald.co

www.jetsetter.hk

WISHLIST 103

SEDUCTION

OF THE

SERPENT As a tribute to the design of the serpent clip of the Montblanc 1920s writing instrument,

the creature takes centre stage in the new Montblanc Heritage Collection, Rouge & Noir, sensually uncoiling its skin of precious metals and fine stones around a truly remarkable piece. Limited to just one pen worldwide and priced at €1.2 million (US$1.37 million), The Ultimate Serpent Limited Edition 1 has been created using a special method developed

by Montblanc that allows the approximately 6.15ct crowning diamond to enjoy greater visibility and reflect more light. The body of the piece and the serpent that entwines it are made from a single, solid piece of Au750 rose gold, as is the nib, with its intricate snake’s head engraving, accentuated by two ruby eyes. Weighing over 130g in total, this one-ofa-kind masterpiece features 99g of gold, the largest amount of this precious metal ever used in the manufacturing of a Montblanc fountain pen. The cap and barrel are set in full pavée with approximately 1,950 or 15.34ct of dark blue sapphires, offset by the profusion of 153 individually-cut geometric diamonds decorating the snake. www.montblanc.com www.jetsetter.hk

104

WISHLIST

UNDER

Summer’s Sun Salvatore Ferragamo‘s new 2016 sunglasses collection features three eye-catching collections ideal for summer escapes. The SF811SA boasts a bold modern silhouette complemented by a new interpretation of the iconic Gancio that wraps from the temple to the front of the frame. Rich, luxurious colour elegantly contrasts metal accents, while a refined Gancino metal detail is embossed on the temple tips. Available in black, grey, brown, turquoise, avio, violet, burgundy and orange, these savvy shades can also come decorated with crystals and karung, a highly prized skin. Equally glamorous, the new oversized SF800SA model makes a fashion statement with iconic metal Gancino hinge details for a signature look that’s available in black, tortoise, purple and bordeaux. Finally, the SF803SA expresses sophisticated elegance, with a classic silhouette highlighted by a neutral colour palette. A metal double Gancino hardware lends a branded touch to the impeccable, rounded sunglasses crafted in Italy and available in black, tortoise, purple and burgundy. www.ferragamo.com

www.jetsetter.hk

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

The 2016 Porsche Cayenne S E-Hybrid is proving to be the perfect model for Hong Kong driving conditions, combining the sustainability and low emissions of a stateof-the-art hybrid, with the spectacular performance of the famed German marque.

P

the

to be able to listen to music, especially when

biggest range of plug-in cars in

I’m in traffic and Porsche does a great job with

the market, giving the brand an

isolating sound. I also upgraded the sound

“I especially like to drive in the electric mode

important edge in Hong Kong,

system because music is a big part of my

when driving in traffic, especially in low gear,”

where high fuel costs and

driving experience, especially because driving

says Yu, who has been driving hybrids for 8

traffic congestion have steered

is my hobby, I love driving and hate to be a

years, making him a pioneer of a driving scene

passenger.”

that is today dominating Hong Kong’s luxury

orsche

already

offers

affluent consumers towards hybrid models in ever increasing numbers. As the world's first

5.9sec, not bad for a 2.4-ton SUV.

auto industry. “You can charge in a special

plug-in hybrid premium SUV, the Cayenne S

He says the hybrid model also allows for a more

parking spot at the mall or at home, but also

E-Hybrid capitalises on larger, more powerful

comfortable, controlled driving experience. “I

when you’re driving, and when you’re driving

10.8kWh batteries, nestled into a lightweight

drive in electric mode mainly for the comfort,

in charging mode, you don’t really notice the

auto design that can literally be plugged

especially when my family are onboard or

difference, the Cayenne still gives you great

into a domestic wall socket. This cutting-

when my wife is driving. This model offers the

performance and a great driving experience.” He

edge technology, matched with a 3.0-litre

flexibility; I get to drive the car I like, my wife gets

thinks the new model is especially well suited to

supercharged, 333hp V6 gasoline engine and

to drive the car she likes.”

Hong Kong’s mountainous terrain. “You can use

an eight-speed automatic gearbox allows for

the gasoline to climb the mountain and then go

better performance, longer electric range, and

Part of the beauty of the new Cayenne hybrid

into charging mode on the descent and charge

extremely low CO2 emissions.

is the myriad modes available to the driver. The

the batteries, and the system works very well.”

E-Drive mode is purely For Sunny Yu, a new 2016 Porsche Cayenne

electric, and is ideally

S E-Hybrid owner, the model is an ideal

suited for busy urban

meeting of worlds: “The brand plays a major

driving conditions. In

consideration for me. I have been working with

hybrid mode the car

German companies for the past 30 years so of

juggles

course I drive a German car and Porsche has

petrol engine and the

always been a dream car for men. The Porsche

electric engine, aiming

really makes you excited; I’ve driven many other

for the best efficiency

German brands but they don’t produce the

at any point. A sports

same excitement as a Porsche, the same driver

mode combines the two

experience. I just love the sound of the Porsche,

power sources to offer

and I love its elegant power.”

maximal performance,

between

the

giving a total of 416hp Yu says opting for a hybrid isn't only about

and a maximum torque

cost saving. “It's not only about saving money

of 440Nm, racing the

but I love the silence of a hybrid engine. I like

car from 0-100km/hr in

106

WATCHES

The Time T rav e l l e r

With a face both modern and original, the new Breitling Navitimer 1884 limited series combines both modern a historic elements, including the famous 1952 aviation slide rule, and the twin day/month apertures for which the brand was renowned in the 1940s.

Named for the year Léon Breitling, a keen devotee of chronographs and precision instruments, founded the brand, this 1,884-piece limited-edition homage to Breitling’s rich history features user-friendly functions, including a complete calendar displaying the day and the month through twin apertures at 12 o’clock, and the date by means of a central pointer tipped with a moon crescent: a system known as Datora that became a 1940s Breitling bestseller. A self-winding movement certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), housed in a 46mm case, complements an all-black dial that is crafted using the “par épargne” technique on a solid silver base enlivened with red accents. This new model also features an interesting practical detail in the shape of a 9 o’clock small seconds subdial providing an additional 24-hour “military-time” display much favored by pilots. The bracelet is available in leather, crocodile leather, or black rubber. www.breitling.com www.jetsetter.hk

WATCHES 107

TO THE MOON AND BACK

Two stunning new women’s timepieces from Jaeger- LeCoultre capture the brilliance of the sun and the moon to perfection. The

Rendez-Vous Moon catches the eye with its vibrant pink gold

case and fire red strap, which embodies elegance and grace. An ode to the celestial body framed by a precious, shimmering exterior the timepiece serves as a dreamy illustration of the jewellery and watchmaking expertise as fire mingles with light in the pink-gold case and across the purple-red aventurine dial, representing the constellations of the Northern Hemisphere. A majestic mother-ofpearl moon progresses across the lower dial, reflecting the gentle brilliance of the upper dial, which is also adorned with the same material and serves as a backdrop to elegant applique numerals.

At the tip of a hand, a mysterious star indicates the time of a future rendezvous. Diamonds ring the bezel of the 39mm case.

In contrast, the

Rendez-Vous Night & Day

in pink gold is

dark and elegant; graced with jewellery finishes, the rich anthracitegrey shade of the strap and the sunburst satin-finished dial make a harmonious match with the warmth of the precious metal, an appealing association radiantly accentuated by the brilliant-cut diamonds set around the bezel. The sun and moon perform a subtle dance on the romantic day/night indication appearing in an elegantly rounded 6 o’clock aperture. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

www.jetsetter.hk

108

WATCHES

TIME F O R

CHARITY

IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled the striking Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation” to celebrate the brand’s commitment to children’s sport charity Laureus Sport for Good.

Coinciding with the coveted Laureus World Sports Awards in Berlin, the new timepiece, limited to 1,500 watches, marks the tenth special edition to be launched by the Schaffhausen-based luxury watchmaker as part of its commitment to sports charity and features a winning design from last year’s IWC children’s drawing competition by 16-year-old Eleni Partakki of Cyprus, engraved on its case back. Since 2006, IWC Schaff¬hausen has been supporting the Laureus Sport for Good foundation, an organisation that believes in the integrative force of sport, harnessing its potential to advance social change and provide more promising future prospects for disadvantaged children and adolescents. This year’s timepiece is a model from the Portofino family; the dial and the moon phase display feature the unmistakable Laureus blue, lending the timepiece an extraordinary depth, accentuated by hour indices complemented by 12 diamonds and by a blue alligator leather strap from Santoni.

The piece is driven by an automatic 35800-calibre movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. www.iwc.com www.jetsetter.hk

110

LUGGAGE

THE DIGITAL

AGE

Want to skip all the hassle of airport check-in but worry about your luggage? German luxury luggage brand RIMOWA has launched its innovative Electronic Tag, the first digital and fully-integrated mobility solution for luggage. A combination of smart luggage and smart phone app, the Electronic Tag allows travellers to check-in their luggage, from home or on the road, using an airline app (Lufthansa has become the first airline to integrate this technology into its system with others to follow).

A press of a button and the luggage tag information is beamed via Bluetooth to the RIMOWA case’s cutting edge E Ink Mobius TM display, where it is displayed in colour like a regular luggage tag, but one resistant to water, heat, shocks and tearing. The technology, the first of its kind, speeds up a traveller’s passage through an airport and ensures luggage can be easily managed and processed by airlines. http://rimowa-electronictag.com/en-EN/start

www.jetsetter.hk

112

THE BITE

a

CULINARY

ODYSSEY

ONE OF THE OLDEST CITIES IN THE WORLD, ATHENS OFFERS A MULTITUDE OF TRADITIONAL, ZESTY DISHES THAT ARE AS IMPRESSIVE AND UNFORGETTABLE AS THE RICH MYTHOLOGY WHICH PERMEATES THE CITY

S

erved in almost every tavern in Athens, moussaka is a Greek staple. Likened to an Italian lasagne but pasta-free, this iconic dish features a base of sliced eggplant sautéed in olive oil, layered with luscious ground meat cooked with tomato purée, onions, garlic, and spices, and topped with creamy béchamel sauce. For an authentic take on this local classic, head to Litho (17 Esopou St., Psiri; +30 210 324 7797; www.lithospsiri.gr), a cosy, restaurant www.jetsetter.hk

where you can enjoy Greek cuisine and live music.

Named for its cooking method, the gyro (meaning “turn” in Greek) is a signature street dish made from meat roasted on a vertical rotisserie. When cooked to perfection, the meat will be cut in thin slices and served wrapped in a lightly grilled pita with a variety of vegetables, including tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and lettuce, and dressed with yoghurt-based tzatziki

sauce. A stone’s throw from the Acropolis Museum, the Smile Restaurant (24 Syngrou Avenue, Tsokri Square; +30 210 921 8911; www.smilerestaurant.gr) serves up a variety of authentic gyros that make for ideal post culture clash snacks.

If you’re not carnivorous, try spanakopita, a Greek spinach pie made with feta cheese, onions, scallions and eggs. All this goodness is stuffed in filo dough with butter or olive oil and baked. While this classic delicacy is offered all over the capital, you can’t go wrong with acclaimed Ariston (Voulis 10, Athina; +30 210 322 7626), owned by the Lobotesis family for over a century. Tucked away on Voulis Street behind Syntagma Square, this pint-sized store not only offers the most authentic spanakopita, but also mouthwatering pies of all kinds, including their signature short crust kourou pies, which attract a bevy of locals and tourist every day.

AUTO 113

POWER

MEETS POISE Bentley’s new GT Speed is the marque’s fastest yet, and complemented by a new Black Edition finish, promises to marry style and street-savvy performance.

By Nick Walton

J

ust when you thought Bentley might have reached the pinnacle of luxury and performance, the marque has released the revised Continental GT Speed, including a special Black Edition, to created the fastest production Bentley ever, with a top speed of 206 mph (331 km/h).

Bentley engineers, based at the brand’s headquarters in the United Kingdom, have developed even more muscle from the Continental’s iconic 6.0-litre twinturbocharged W12 engine, which now produces 642 PS - up from 635 PS - and 20 Nm of extra torque in the GT Speed model.

As if that extra power isn’t enough to turn heads, Bentley has also revealed Black Edition treatment for the GT Speed that celebrates the rich and striking depth of the GT’s sporting character. Available as both coupe and convertible bodystyles, a choice of body colour is complimented by a striking high gloss black finish to the exterior brightware, including the window openings and lamp bezels. All-black 21-inch fivespoke directional wheels cover distinctive brake calipers, which can be specified in red or black finishes.

To add a further unique and striking twist, the Black Edition also adds contrast colours to the front splitter, side skirts and rear diffuser

in four different shades: Hallmark, Beluga, St James’ Red and a new shade, Cyber Yellow.

Customers can also choose to colour-match the door mirrors as a final exterior accent.

Inside, the mix of dark tones and vivid highlights continues. Carbon fibre adorns the fascia, centre and roof consoles to create a dark opulent ambiance while a dedicated Black Edition colour split sees the seats and centre console bordered by contrasting leather, available in Porpoise, Beluga, Pillar Box Red or new Cyber Yellow to match the exterior styling accents. Corresponding contrast stitching accentuates the diamond quilting of the doors and Mulliner GT Design seats. www.bentleymotors.com www.jetsetter.hk

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

NEW LEISURE HUB S

IN MACAO

OFFERING A SLEW OF CULTURAL AND CREATIVE SHOPS, CAPTIVATING PERFORMANCES AND INTERESTING ACTIVITIES, ANIM’ARTE NAM VAN IN MACAO ALLOWS TRAVELLERS TO EXPLORE THE BEAUTIFUL CITY FROM A NEW PERSPECTIVE.

hifting from its focus as a city of heritage, glamour and luxury to that of a world tourism and leisure centre, Macao has endeavoured to construct a variety of entertainment offerings to attract travellers from across the globe. This summer, Macao has opened a new leisure hub, Anim’Arte Nam Van (Nam Van Lakeside Plaza), breathing new life into the dynamic Pearl River Delta city and injecting elements of creativity and culture into a coveted waterfront precinct wreathing beautiful Nam Van Lake, at the southern end of Macao Peninsula.

Anim’Arte Nam Van is a new city landmark for shopping, cultural experiences and leisure activities. Visitors can scour the wide selection of cultural and creative shops for local designs and products, visit the indoor cultural and creative market, or head to a Macao Cultural and Creative Industries Map-themed shop, where they can find an array of artwork and publications from 52 local entities registered on the Macao Cultural and Creative Industries Map. The shop also displays information about

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION is on Saturdays and Sundays, when the Nan Vam Lake Craft Market is set up for creative stimulation and cultural exchange.

Featuring 20 outdoor booths run by designers and creative individuals from Macao, Hong Kong and Mainland China, the vibrant market also organises occasional handicraft workshops and mini-concerts, providing visitors with a platform to learn and mingle.

Likened to a fun-filling, action-packed carnival, Anim’Arte Nam Van on weekends also features a rich and entertaining program of special performances and activities that are free of charge and are suitable for the whole family. Watch out for the fantastic costume parade, “Eléctrico” puppet show, and Portuguese Fado and Jazz music performances, and be ready to bump into walking stilt characters and clowns entertaining revellers on the street. Visitors with children in tow should also pay a visit to the face painting stall, where their little angels can transform into their favourite fairy tale princesses or cartoon characters.

the Map-related spaces and sells tickets for different exhibitions and performances.

A number of charities have also co-operated with the Cultural Affairs Bureau to open their own shops in the plaza and offer handicrafts made by the city’s underprivileged, with the aim of offering a channel for disadvantaged citizens to contribute to society. Those who want to relish Macao’s street art should check out the graffiti display boards placed in front of selected shops. Painted by local professional art groups, the display boards not only add a pop of colours into the lakeside leisure space, but also illustrate the multitude of activities and experiences that visitors may enjoy at Nam Van Lake.

Though the kaleidoscope of creative and cultural shops is mesmerising enough for visitors to enjoy, the best time to visit Anim’Arte Nam Van

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION There’s no better way to relish the serene beauty of Nam Van Lake than by taking a relaxing pedal boat ride on the peaceful lake. From 11:00am to 7:00pm daily, a troop of swan-shaped, double-seated pedal boats are available for rental, allowing couples the chance to immense themselves in the beautiful landscape of Nam Van while working out their legs for fitness. Catering to families and groups of friends, pedal boats for four are also available for hire.

After working up an appetite, visitors can make a stop at IFT Café, which is run by on-the-job training students from The Institute for Tourism Studies and serves up a tantalising menu of delectable European-style snacks and beverages. Visitors can savour the culinary delights while enjoying a taste of slow living against the stunning backdrop of the tranquil water.

Creativity

Cultural and Creative Shop Arts Pavilion Indoor Craft Market and Book Market Opening Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Doll Making Paper Craft & Puppet Making Opening Hours: Weekend 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Weekend Craft Market Opening Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Graffiti Display Area

Leisure

Pedal Boat Opening Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Dining

IFT Café Opening Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Performance

Show Hours: Weekend 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

CULTURE 117

COME TO MOMA

T

he San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) has reopened in the neighbourhood of Bayview, offering nearly three times its previous exhibition space. Designed by internationally-renowned architecture firm Snøhetta, the museum’s new ten-storey

addition has a range of exciting features, including the Doris and Donald Fisher Collection,

one of the greatest private collections of contemporary art in the world; and the Pritzker Center for Photography, which showcases more than 17,800 photographic works, dating from the inception of this medium in 1839 to today’s digital images. Thanks to the Campaign for Art, SFMOMA has collected over 3,000 artworks from 200 donors to enrich the museum’s collection, including major works by acclaimed American photographer Diane Arbus, painter Jackson Pollock, and filmmaker Lynn Hershman Leeson. In addition to nearly 45,000sqft of free public access on the ground floor, the expansion project also includes a double-height “White Box” performance space and the upgraded Koret Education Center, which offers an increased list of programs for families. www.sfmoma.org

Image Credit: Boris Mikhailov, born 1938; Crimean Snobbism, 1982; Courtesy of the artist and Sprovieri Gallery, London. © Boris Mikhailov

www.jetsetter.hk

118

TECHNOLOGY

Half the size of most DSLRs, LUMIX

DMC-GX85

is Panasonic’s newest mirrorless interchangeable lens camera. With a new 5-axis Dual I.S. (image stabiliser); a 16.0-megapixel digital Live MOS sensor; and a new Venus processor, the DMX-GX85 can take super sharp high-res images and 4k video, even in low light shooting conditions, with high contrast and accurate colours. A 16:9 wide screen Live View Finder allows for better composition and a 3-inch high resolution, tilting touch monitor makes surfing the menu a breeze. www.panasonic.com

The new X series by LG, including the cutting edge X

CAM, is for travellers who want to

take good pictures with only a smartphone.

Featuring a 5.2-inch FHC in-cell touch display with an elegant curved finish, the X Cam sports dual cameras on the rear, including a 13MP standard angle lens and a 5MP wide angle lens with a field of view the same as the human eye. An innovative Pop-out Picture feature also allows users to combine the two images taken by the two lenses to create an intriguing picture-in-a-frame effect. www. lg.com

SHARP

SHOOTERS FROM HIGH-PERFORMANCE CAMERAS TO STYLISH LAPTOPS MADE FOR AVID TRAVELLERS, THIS IS THE TECH WE’RE IN LOVE WITH THIS SEASON. BY CRYSTAL LEUNG Samsung’s new 360-degree camera, the Gear

360, allows travellers

to capture their adventures in a whole new way. At only 153 grams, this spherical camera is ultra-light, waterproof and dust resistant, and is equipped with dual fisheye lenses, each with a high-resolution image sensor, capable of capturing 3840 x 1920, 360-degree video or 30 megapixel still images. Share your stunning memories via select Galaxy smartphones, including the Galaxy S7 and Galaxy S7 edge, or immerse yourself all over again using the Samsung Gear VR, powered by Oculus. www.samsung.com

www.jetsetter.hk

TECHNOLOGY 119

Enhance your live streaming experience with the recently launched, pocket-sized live event camera,

Movi, which allows travellers the chance to film and stream their travels live while also editing at the same time. Ideal for recording everything from concerts and sport games to captivating travel footage, this stylish camera allows users to control up to nine virtual cameras via an iOS app, which can then be edited and shared via an iPhone. Featuring a 150-degree all glass lens, a 4K sensor and built-in microphones, Movi is made to shoot professional HD video and is able to automatically detect faces as well as points of interest. www.getmovi.com

Sony has added the DSC-HX80 to its compact zoom camera lineup. Featuring a 30x optical zoom, a high-resolution 18.2 MP2 Exmor R CMOS sensor, and a retractable electronic viewfinder, this savvy bit of kit can capture the finest details for still images and take full HD videos under all kinds of light conditions. It also boasts a highresolution, 921k dot LCD screen that can tilt a full 180-degrees for selfie taking. It's compatible with WiFi or NFC (Near Field Communication) for seamless wireless content transfer using Sony PlayMemories Camera apps. www.sony.com

Perfect for travellers on the go, Acer’s new Chromebook 14 provides up to 14 hours of battery life in a sleek and modern frame that easily slips into carry on luggage. The first model in the Chromebook family to offer a large 14-inch IPS display, the all-aluminum Chromebook 14 features an Intel Celeron quad-core N3060 processor, and can connect to other devices through two first-generation USB 3.1 ports, high-speed Wi-Fi, HDMI and Bluetooth 4.2. With IPS (In-plane switching) technology, the display comes in full HD (1920 x 1080) or HD (1366 x 768) resolutions, and boasts ComfyView low-reflection and anti-glare properties that can help reduce eye fatigue during prolonged use. www.acer.com

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LIMELIGHT

ART OF THE TRENCH, DUBAI

Celebrating its latest Art of the Trench project and the creative communities of the Middle East,

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Burberry has hosted a lavish event at its flagship store in the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai.

With a live DJ set by Gary Powell, the drummer of English rock band The Libertines, the event welcomed

over

400

guests,

who had the chance to see live demonstrations by craftswomen from Castleford, England, the home of Burberry. On the starstudded guest lists was British Burberry model Suki Waterhouse; Italian model and actress Elisa Sednaoui; and comedian and television

personality

Wonho

Chung.

1. Ali & Tamara Jaber 2. Ascia AKF 3. Basil Al Hadi 4. Bin Baz 5. Christopher Bailey 6. Elisa Sednaoui 7. Nikki Meftah 8. Nina Abdel Malak 9. Gary Powell 10. Sunny Rahbar & Princess Alia Al-Senussi 11. Tarik Zaharna 12. Suki Waterhouse 13. Wonho Chung

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LIMELIGHT 121

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MEDIA X MUMM HARBOURFRONT PARTY, HONG KONG

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1. Adelene Chan 2. Caroline Fok & Jenny Lam 3. Chester Lim & Gordon Lam 4. The stage is set 5. Jaime Ho Ku 6. And the crowd goes wild 7. Jonathan Cheung 8. Kayla Wong 9. Mara Rhomberg 10. Tianyo Ma 11. Veronica Lam 12. Stylish new design from G.H. Mumm

The city’s social set braved the weather to combine their love of French champagne and modern art at this year’s Art Central exhibition in Hong Kong. At the art fair G.H. Mumm launched two striking new bottle designs and hosted an exclusive champagne bar that boasted a series of mixedmedia installations and performances, including works by Nonotak Studio’s Day Dream, before welcoming the city’s beautiful to a Media x Mumm harbourfront party. In attendance were socialites Adelene Chan, Caroline Fok and Jenny Lam; actor Gordon Lam; restauranteurs Jaime Ho Ku and Jonathan Cheung; art aficionado Veronica Lam; and fashionista Tianyo Ma.

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LIMELIGHT

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1. Adrien Brody 2. Ana R 3. Chiharu Okunugi 4. Danielle Graham 5. Eunice Chan 6. Gaile Lok 7. Helena Chan 8. Anthony Sandstrom & Jocelyn Luko 9. Krissi Cristina 10. Olivia Buckingham 11. Vanessa Yeung 12. Winnie Young & Simon Wong 13. Outdoor Terrace of Seafood Room 14. Kam Kwok Leung

THE HOTTEST TABLE IN TOWN Russia’s Bulldozer Group has celebrated the grand opening of its first interactive seafood restaurant in Hong Kong - Seafood Room - with an

exclusive cocktail party held in its elegant 740sqm dining room, as well as on the restaurant’s outdoor terrace and rooftop patio overlooking Victoria Harbour. With free-flow Champagne and delicious seafood canapes, the event was attended by Hollywood actor Adrien Brody, creator of some of the restaurant’s striking artworks, as well as a slew of A-listers from Hong Kong's entertainment scene, from top models Ana R, Eunice Chan, Gaile Lok and Jocelyn Luko; to actress Winnie Young; and director Kam Kwok Leung. www.jetsetter.hk