St.-Petersburg Times

The Wheels of History Pulling Back the Press?

A kopeck for thinking of Russia. AAT.

Beglov Approved The city’s Legislative Assembly on Wednesday approved the appointment of Alexander Beglov as first vice governor, having previously rejected him. Page 2.

W W W. S P T I ME S RU S S I A . C O M

FRID AY, JULY 5 , 2002

Lawmakers draft new media bill. Page 4.

FRIDAY Thunderstorms High 25, Low 14 SATURDAY Cloudy High 20, Low 12

SUNDAY Partly Cloudy High 21, Low 12 MONDAY Showers High 21, Low 13

THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Pointing the Finger An official in the pro-Moscow government of Chechnya has accused federal authorities of sabotaging a policing-transfer scheme. Page 3.

Cruel Tides The flooding that struck the south of Russia last week has washed away one town’s efforts at starting afresh. Page 4.

The Way Ford Ford Motor Co. is about to open its first plant in Russia, and has fixed the price of its standard model at just over $10,000.

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Playing Chicken According to a senior U.S. official, Russia and the United States are close to reaching an agreement over imports of U.S. poultry. Page 5.

WOLFGANG RATTAY/REUTERS

Relatives of some of the children killed in the crash arriving at the airport of Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance on Thursday.

Opinion. Page 6.

Class Ads. Pages 7-8.

World News. Page 9.

Jobs. Page 10.

CENTRAL BANK RATE

5:45/12:20 5:47/12:19 5:48/12:18 5:49/12:17 5:51/12:16

By Alexander G. Higgins

Anger with Spanish officials over delays in granting visas turned to relief for five people who were not among the passengers on the doomed Bashkortostan flight. Page 3.

After the Korean confrontation at sea, the North looks for an agreement while, in the South, demonstrations go on. Page 9.

FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY

Families Mourn Victims of Crash

Twist of Fate

The Great Divide

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Police Scheme Looking to Future

By Claire Bigg STAFF WRITER

The threats of terrorism, narcotics-related crime and soccer hooliganism are all issues that have surfaced only in recent years for Russian law-enforcement officers, while their British counterparts have already gained a good deal of experience in dealing with them.

But officials involved in a 10-year old cooperative program between the Metropolitan Police Training Center, located in the London suburb of Hendon, and St. Petersburg’s Interior Ministry University, say that the aims of their program are much broader in scope and time frame.

“The aim of the exchange program is not to tell Russians what to do, but to show them how we work,” said Richard Farmery, the head of External Liaison for the Metropolitan Police Service, in an interview during his visit to St. Petersburg on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the program last week.

“The program will bear fruit in the long run, once the young Russian cadets who were trained in England are in positions of power and can bring bout some changes on their own,” he said.

In each of the last 10 years, 20 of the top students from the Interior Ministry’s university have taken part in a five-week exchange program at the Hendon center, where they receive training in a number of fields, including forensic science, interrogation techniques, crime investigation and prevention, as well as gaining extensive practical experience in patrolling the streets of London, accompanied by British police officers.

The exchange program was created in July 1992, when Peter Imbert, then commissioner of London’s Metropolitan Police Service, came up with the idea following a visit to St. Petersburg, as a way to assist Russia in reforming its police forces and to facilitate a dialogue with Western Europe. The pro-

gram received its initial funding from Britain’s Know How Fund, which was targeted to provide bilateral development assistance to countries under transition in Central and Eastern Europe and Asia.

See COPS, Page 2

UEBERLINGEN, Germany — Grieving families piled flowers on Thursday around the airliner wreckage that fell from nearly 10 kilometers up with their children on board, and investigators said the Russian pilot had been given just 44 seconds warning before crashing into an oncoming cargo plane.

The initial results of a German-led inquiry into the collision — which killed 72 people, 45 of them Russian children headed for an end-of-school beach vacation — turned fresh attention on Swiss air-traffic control, which took charge of the planes shortly before the crash.

The Swiss have already said that there was only one controller in the Zurich tower at the time and that there should have been two because a crashavoidance system was out of service for maintenance. The second controller had taken a break.

Chief German investigator Peter Schlegel said analysis of radio transmissions showed the Bashkirian Airlines Tu-154 was given six seconds less than the 50-second warning Swiss and German officials had previously reported.

That is nearly a minute less than the Swiss had claimed shortly after the crash.

The Russian-made Tupolev began to dive just 14 seconds after the initial warning and 30 seconds before the crash. The Russian plane was responding to a second Swiss warning.

“The Tupolev should have begun descending, at the latest, one minute before the crossing point,” Schlegel said, at a news conference in the northcentral German city of Braunschweig.

But he said it was too early to determine blame in the collision with a Boeing 757 DHL International delivery-service jet just before midnight Monday.

Both pilots on that plane died.

Schlegel denied a Russian news report that experts decoding the planes’ flight data and cockpit voice recorders found the Russian pilot asked to change course one minute before the collision.

The children — all gifted students from Ufa, an industrial city in Bashkortostan region in the southern Ural Mountains — were heading to Spain as a reward for getting top grades.

On Thursday, parents and other relatives of the young Russians hugged, cried, piled flowers and placed wreaths at the wreckage in a solemn farewell.

Some of the 150 family members were so overcome with grief they needed medical treatment, officials said.

Women leaned on one another in the sun as they walked from a golden See CRASH, Page 3

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The St. Petersburg Times

Beglov Approved as First Vice Governor

By Claire Bigg STAFF WRITER

The Legislative Assembly confirmed Alexander Beglov, St. Petersburg Governor Vladimir Yakovlev’s nominee for the post of first vice governor and head of the city’s treasury, by a 38-7 vote on Wednesday, two weeks after it had voted against his appointment.

On June 19, Beglov received only 21 of the minimum 26 votes necessary for confirmation, and the overwhelming margin this time had some local politicians scratching their heads.

Ruslan Linkov, the leader of the local branch of the Democratic Russia party, said he thought that some of the deputies were persuaded to vote in favour of Beglov after having received assurances that he would not hinder their campaigns during the elections for the Legislative Assembly to be held in December.

“I think those deputies who voted against Beglov the first time have since received garanties that he will lend them assistance, or at least that he will not work against them,” Linkov said Friday.

As first vice governor, one of Beglov’s duties is to head St. Petersburg’s treasury, meaining that he would be responsible for supervizing the financial organization of the upcoming election campaign.

Others, however, said that the shift in attitudes was more due to Beglov’s own success in presenting himself to the chamber and getting accross his message.

“Beglov wasn’t confirmed the first time because he did not appear convincing enough,” said Vatanyar Yagya, a deputy from the St. Petersburg’s Will faction.

“He laid out the facilitation of dia-

logue between the different political forces in St. Petersburg as his highest priority, and this scared off a number of deputies because this really isn’t one of the chief responsibilities of the head of the Treasury,” Yagya said.

“This time, Beglov was more familiar with the position for which he was being considered and was able to put togehter the right priorities and arguments,” he said.

“Nobody really knows Beglov at the Legislative Assembly,” said Boris Vishnyevsky, a local Yabloko party member.

“I think the previous vote was a misunderstanding, and it baffled many politicians,” he added.

Since September 1999, Beglov has worked as the head of the Kurortny District Administration in the city, and his work there has drawn praise.

“Beglov’s performance and achievements as head of the Kurortny district were good, and I think he will continue to do a good job in his new position,” said Unity lawmaker Viktor Yevtukhov.

Addressing the Legislative Assembly ahead of the June 19 vote, Beglov said that he would resign his Kurortny District position in order to take up his new responsibilities The first vice governor post was left vacant when Yury Antonov resigned from office on May 31, citing personal reasons.

Beglov’s nomination had originally drawn fire from different interests within the assembly, including its judicial department, which sent a finding to Yakovlev claiming that, as a graduate of the Leningrad Instititute for Engineering and Construction, Beglov was not suitably qualified to function as head of the treasury.

Iraq’s New Ambassador Officially Begins Duties

By Natalia Yefimova STAFF WRITER

MOSCOW — Iraq’s new ambassador to Russia, who served for a time as Iraqi President Saddam Hussein’s personal interpreter, officially took up his duties Thursday, saying that his 25-year relationship with the country of his first diplomatic posting has left him “nearly Russified.”

Speaking in fluent Russian peppered with idioms, Abbas Khalaf told reporters that Baghdad considers Russia and Russian companies — which do a brisk business with Iraq under the UN sanctions regime but say they stand to gain billions of dollars more if the sanctions are lifted — a top priority, not a last resort in the face of international isolation.

“Some press reports have said that Iraq wants to use Russia as a Trojan horse” to subvert the sanctions regime and then to abandon the relationship, but “this is not the case,” said Khalaf, who holds a doctorate in philology and a journalism degree from Moscow State University.

Russia’s Foreign Ministry has said that in 2001 the two countries signed $2.3 billion worth of non-military deals, not including oil trade contracts.

Since the start of the UN oil-for-food program, in which Russia is a major participant, Russian-Iraqi trade turnover has reached a reported $6 billion.

Asked about Moscow’s new proWestern stance in the wake of Sept. 11, Khalaf said Russia’s foreign policy is its own business.

However, in a momentary lapse of composure, he accused the United

States and Great Britain of using the sanctions as a tool to hit Russia where it hurts — its pocket.

By keeping the sanctions in place, “the United States and England want to inflict the greatest damage on Russia,” he said emotionally.

Iraq owes Russia an estimated $8 billion in debt, which Khalaf said Baghdad is prepared to pay — but can’t because of the sanctions.

Khalaf also cited an official letter from Foreign Minister Igor Ivanov saying that Russia’s losses as a result of the sanctions totaled $30 billion.

Russian oil companies that help Iraq export oil under the UN program now earn some $200 million to $400 million annually from the project, according to industry analysts.

However, their access to some major oil fields — which they have rights to develop and which could be worth tens of billions of dollars in the longterm — have been frozen pending the lifting of sanctions.

Khalaf indicated Iraq would honor the Russian companies’ rights, saying oil was a strategic issue and “we insist it remain in the hands of our friends.”

Despite his unreserved criticism of the sanctions, Khalaf said he was optimistic about the latest round of talks between Baghdad and the United Nations, which kicked off in Vienna on Thursday.

While the UN aim is to clinch a deal allowing arms inspectors back into Iraq after a 3 1/2 year shut-out, Baghdad has a much longer list of issues to discuss, including U.S. threats to oust Hussein and the future of the U.S. and Britishimposed no-fly zones.

SERGEY GRACHEV/SPT

British program organizers Gerald Brook (l) and Richard Callen (r) flanking Salnikov at the university ceremonyt last Thursday.

COPS

Continued from Page 1 Since then, over 180 Russians have visited the Metropolitan Police Training Center, the majority of whom were young cadets, although a few senior officers have also visited the London institution.

In addition to the course at Hendon, the Russian cadets also get to visit the headquarters of Britain’s police force at New Scotland Yard, a Crown Court, the British Parliament and London’s Metropolitan Forensic Science Laboratory.

“One of the things that impressed me most during my stay was New Scotland Yard,” said Dmitry Kuznetsov, a 20-year old police cadet who took part in the program in the Spring of 2001. “The police officers there can monitor what happens on the streets of London from their office, thanks to 400,000 cameras scattered throughout the city.”

“Generally, the program was very beneficial, and the extensive practical training gave us a very clear idea of a police officer’s work in London,” he said.

Kuznetsov said, however, that he was overwhelmed at first when he was sent to walk a street beat with a London Bobby without really having any training in this area but, like most of the cadets, he quickly learned to enjoy the experience of patrolling the streets of London wearing a Russian uniform.

“People’s reactions were always friendly. One day, some people saw my uniform and thought I was from the British Intelligence Service. It was funny, because nobody noticed the Russian flag and symbols on my uniform,” Kuznetsov said, with a chuckle.

General Viktor Salnikov, the head of the Interior Ministry University, said that the direct work with civilians was the most crucial aspect of the cadets’ training at Hendon.

“The most valuable quality trainees gain from the course is a better ability to work with people,” he said.

While both sides see the value of the experience the cadets get in London, they also realize that police officers in Russia have a reputation of being corrupt and often brutal, and that a large number of Russian’s look upon police here with a good deal of enmity. They say the value of the program is that it is an attempt to reform the system from below.

“Now many of the earlier trainees are working in various fields throughout Russia and can put to use the experience they gained at Hendon,” Salnikov said.

“The program is beneficial to the university, but also to the Ministry of Interior and to London,” he added.

One specific negative aspect of the Russian police system that the program tries to counter is that of corruption. While the course does specifically

deal with ethics issues, representatives from the British side say that the attitudes of individual officers are not the only culprit behind the problem.

“Of course, the low salaries here encourage the taking of bribe but, if the government reduced the number of police officers, it could afford to pay them more,” Farmery said. “There are 120,000 police officers in Moscow alone, whereas in London there are only 26,000. This is a rollover from Soviet times.”

“Corruption also stems from the fact that people still think they have to pay bribes. Not only that of the police, but also the people’s perception of police officers has to change,” he added.

While the exchange program remains the central component of the collaboration between the Interior Ministry University and London’s Metropolitan Police Service, the framework of the collaboration has expanded.

Over the past few years, both sides have hosted a series of conferences centered around the topics related to democracy and crime fighting in order to facilitate cooperation in these domains between Great Britain and Russia. Fighting terrorism is one subject that has drawn their attention.

“With the development of new technologies, terrorism has become an international problem, which requires international solutions. In October 2001, we organized a conference on terrorism in St. Petersburg, during which the head of the British Flying Squad [a rapid-response mobile unit that is part of London’s Metropolitan Police Service] met his Russian counterpart to discuss terrorism issues,” Farmery said. “Now, instead of having to go through lengthy bureaucratic procedures to contact each other, they can simply pick up the phone.”

“But the British police’s activity in Russia is ultimately addressed to the poor, the disadvantaged people of Russia,” he added.

One example of this focus is program targeting domestic violence that

has been organized in collaboration with the Interior Ministry University.

The aim of the program is to encourage victims of domestic violence to turn to the police for help.

Earlier this year, St. Petersburg police representatives took part in a pilot project that involved a program on a local radio station addressing the subject, during which over 2000 calls were received from people who said that they had been victims of domestic violence.

The university consequently introduced a course on dealing with domestic violence into its curriculum, developing the course materials and teaching the subject in collaboration with NGO workers from the Alexander Center, a St. Petersburg association that deals with domestic-violence issues.

The turn to paying more attention to issues, such as domestic violence, that have received little serious attention for a long time in Russia comes side-by-side with help in dealing with and policing relatively new difficulties, including drug-use and hooliganism.

To try to help reduce the spread of infectious diseases through drug use, the Metropolitan Police Service has helped set up a needle exchange program in Krasnoyarsk, which has involved overcoming traditional police culture.

“Sometimes it is difficult convincing Russian police forces to support something that is illegal. But such preventive measures will avoid many problems in the future,” said Farmery.

In one other way, Farmery says, Russian police cadets learning some tricks from their British counterparts makes sense, as one group of Russian criminals has already done the same.

“We are also very worried about the rise of hooliganism, which was best illustrated in May in Moscow, after Russia lost to Japan in the World Cup,” Farmery adds. “Russian hooligans say that they model themselves on British hooligans, so now we would like to help deal with this problem in Russia.”

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Kuznetsov posing with two British mounted police officers last year in London.

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Photos Haunting Ufa Teachers

By Burt Herman THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

WLFGANG RATTAY/REUTERS

Relatives of some of those killed in the accident visiting the crash site on Thursday.

CRASH

Continued from Page 1 barley field where the jet’s tail section lay askew in the gently rolling hills leading down to Lake Constance. The Swiss Alps towered in the background.

An Orthodox priest and a Muslim cleric offered prayers, as the relatives left seven large flower wreaths.

German officials had asked the parents for photographs and other aids to help in the “extraordinarily difficult identification” of their children.

The bodies were in such terrible condition relatives should not have to identify them, said Baden-Wurttemberg state Interior Minister Thomas Schauble.

Officials said they had recovered 68 by the time the parents arrived. The search was continuing.

Many questions remained, including whether both planes’ onboard collisionwarning systems were functioning.

“We don’t know whether it was human error, or technical error, or whether there was a chain of unfortunate circumstances,” German Transport Minister Kurt Bodewig said.

Schlegel said the Zurich control

tower received notification 14 seconds before the impact that one plane’s collision-warning system was recommending it descend. Investigators believe it was the Boeing, which then began to dive — meaning that both planes were taking the same evasive action at the same time, thus continuing on their collision course.

“That clearly worsened the situation and it will be a major issue in the investigation,” Schlegel said.

Officials said the Russian plane also had a collision-avoidance system, but it was unclear whether it was working at the time of the crash.

Though several experts have said Europe’s fragmented air traffic-control system was not to blame for the collision, the crash revived calls for a single, Europe-wide system.

“The small-state thinking must be replaced by a unified system,” Bodewig said.

Swiss authorities had said shortly after the tragedy that their controllers gave the Russian pilot 90 seconds warning, but quickly scaled that back to 50 seconds to match subsequent German reports. The Swiss had also initially claimed the Russian pilot had not responded until a third warning from the tower.

Official Accuses Government Of Sabotage Over Policing THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

MOSCOW — A senior official with the pro-Moscow Chechen government accused federal authorities on Thursday of sabotaging the transfer of policing duties to Chechen officers.

“We are ready to assume full responsibility for the maintenance of public order, but there is hidden sabotage,” Shaid Zhamaldayev of the Chechen administration was quoted by Interfax as saying. “Someone wants the Chechen police to remain a stepchild.”

He said that local police units lack the necessary arms, computers, vehicles and communication equipment.

The Chechen police “is not allowed to work in full,” Zhamaldayev said.

The government has long said that life is slowly returning to normal in Chechnya, and they have expressed a desire to boost the role played by Chechen

police. But while Russia said earlier this week that is would shrink its military presence in Chechnya, there is still an 80,000-strong force of service personnel and special police operating there.

Additionally, the federal troops have an uneasy relationship with local police.

Military units regularly accuse some Chechen police officers of acting on behalf of rebels and say that rebels frequently try to infiltrate the police.

Interfax reported Thursday that several rebels were detained after applying for service in a riot police unit of the Chechen interior department.

Meanwhile, Colonel Ilya Shabalkin told Itar-Tass that federal troops seized an audiocassette made by rebel leader Aslan Maskhadov in which he allegedly implores rebels to force Chechen businesspeople to pay a “presidential tax” to raise money for the separatist fight.

UFA, Bashkortostan — One was a star student, her report card full of perfect grades. One was like a kid brother to all his classmates, loving to argue to prove his point.

Another was ill and trying to catch up, but nonetheless had started studying Spanish to prepare for a school trip to the Mediterrannean coast.

That trip to REUTERS Spain ended in a fiery death for Karina Urazlina them and 42 other schoolchildren from the republic of Bashkortostan, in a plane collision over Germany.

Grieving teachers at the Gymnasium No. 3 school in the center of Bashkortostan’s capital, Ufa, pored over school files, old class photos and pictures of holiday celebrations with girls in satin pink dresses dancing to mark World War II Victory Day. Seven of the dead students had attended the school, one of a few elite institutions in the region where all pupils study English and either German or French, along with choosing specialties in either humanities, math or science.

One of the school’s brightest was Karina Urazlina, 16, who would have entered her final year Sept. 1. Principal Leilya Sharafutdinova went through a file on her desk of Karina’s numerous award certificates and her latest report card — filled with rows of fives, or top marks.

Karina had specialized in chemistry and was the best student in the subject, teachers said.

On a videotape of a fellow stu-

dent’s presentation, the dark-haired Karina sat in the front row and applauded enthusiastically.

She had won an award in a school science competition for a report called “Ozone and its influence on the environment.”

“She wanted to solve the problem in her own way,” said Sharafutdinova. Karina had also worked with UNESCO, the UN’s cultural and educational arm that was also inREUTERS volved with the students’ trip to Ruslan Urazlin Spain, and had won an international science competition on a previous trip to Bulgaria.

Her younger brother, Ruslan Urazlin, 14, was also on the ill-fated plane.

One of the school’s brightest pupils, Karina would have started her final year in September.

A year younger than the rest of the children in his grade, Ruslan was like the kid brother to everyone in his class with his boyish ways, said his math teacher Lilia Satayeva.

In photographs, the skinnier and shorter Ruslan was always smiling. In one he modestly spoke into a microphone held by another student at a ceremony for the completion of ninth grade. Despite his smaller size, Satayeva said Ruslan always liked to start debates with his fellow students.

“He just liked to prove something,” she said. “It was of no importance how, he just liked to do things in his own way.”

Less outgoing was Sofia Fedotova, 15, who had been forced by illness to miss many classes and was struggling to keep up, said her English teacher Lidiya Gafurova.

Sofia had problems with her back, making her unable to sit for long periods in class, and hoped that the sun and REUTERS sea in Spain would be good for her Sofia Fedotova health, Gafurova said.

Despite always being behind, she had even started learning Spanish, in addition to already studying English and French, in eager anticipation of the trip.

“A lot of people dance or do sports, but for Sofia there wasn’t time for that,” said Gafurova. “All her attention was paid to studying.”

At the parents’ meeting, Alexander Safchuk sat motionless, having lost not only his two children, 12-yearold Vladislav and 13-year-old Veronika, but also his wife Irina, who had worked in the regional administration and was one of the escorts for the ill-fated trip.

His brother, Vladimir, sitting next to him for support, said Alexander would go to Germany with his remaining son, Viktor, 22, “to have some kind of memory” of his loss.

Another parent, Alfiya Kakhanova, broke into tears as she remembered her 12-year-old daughter Alina.

“I don’t feel like a mother anymore,” she said, lamenting that she had sent her child on the trip. “I feel like I’ve lost my heart.”

Visa Delay Meant Five Escaped Death

By Valeria Korchagina and Robin Munro STAFF WRITERS

MOSCOW — Visa problems were all that stood between the air tragedy and the five people who failed to make the flight.

Dim Khuzhin, who was to oversee the group of students from Bashkortostan, was furious when the Spanish Embassy balked at issuing visas last week for his wife, Klara, who was also the group’s doctor, their two children Diana and Rasul and an assistant.

He only found out that he and his family had escaped death when they turned up at the Spanish Embassy on Tuesday morning to try to sort out the visas.

The embassy said the visa application forms had been incomplete.

“They were not refused visas. The issuing was delayed,” Spanish Embassy spokesperson Grigorio Laso said.

“They just hadn’t supplied all the necessary documents.”

The family and the assistant, Yevgenia Sigalova, had thought they would miss a few precious days of the twoweek vacation when the embassy handed out visas to the other 49 members of the group Friday.

Laso said the embassy had gotten angry telephone calls about the delay of the five visas.

The Bashkortostan group’s Moscow travel agent, Tatyana Ostapenko, was to meet the Khuzhins at the embassy at 8 a.m. to help them resolve the visa problem and arrange a later flight to Spain.

“But after I got up at 6 a.m. and watched the news, I went to the office instead,” said Ostapenko, the general director of the Soglasiye youth travel agency. “This was the only place I could do anything if anything at all could be done.”

The Khuzhins, however, remained

unaware of the crash. “They called me sometime early in the morning wondering where I was and why I wasn’t at the embassy,” Ostapenko said. “It turns out they didn’t know anything.

“What could I tell them? I told them that all the children had died. That the plane had crashed. What could a person say under such circumstances?” she said.

As often happens when tragedy strikes, the Khuzhins had difficulty fathoming what had happened. “They just kept asking for strangely irrele-

vant details, as if that would change anything.”

Ostapenko said the Khuzhins and Sigalova were picked up by officials of the Bashkortostan representative office in Moscow and were due to take a train back home to Ufa in the evening. Nobody picked up the telephone at Bashkortostan’s representative office.

The Spanish Embassy said the angry phone calls were replaced Tuesday with calls of gratitude, thanking the embassy for staunchly sticking to its visa rules.

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Lawmakers Pushing for Floods Dampen Recovery Plans Reform of Media Laws

By Oksana Yablokova STAFF WRITER

By Andrei Zolotov Jr. STAFF WRITER

MOSCOW — A group of influential lawmakers announced Thursday that they have drafted a new mass media law that aims to discourage the government from owning media outlets and introduce a European style concept of public media.

The bill, which should go for a first reading in the State Duma this fall, was written by Mikhail Fedotov, one of the authors of the much-praised yet outdated 1991 Law on Mass Media.

“The fact that Fedotov is an author of the draft is already a certain credential,” said Deputy Duma Speaker Irina Khakamada, who is also a leader of the Union of Right Forces, or SPS. “That means that the draft does not strive to limit media liberties.”

One of the bill’s backers, Russia’s Regions Deputy Boris Reznik, said that deputies from across the Duma’s political spectrum had agreed to support the bill. They included Khakamada, Boris Nadezhdin of SPS, Mikhail Zadornov of Yabloko, Communists Alexander Kravets and Tatyana Astrakhankina and deputies from Fatherland-All Russia, People’s Deputy and Russia’s Regions.

Fedotov, a lawyer and a secretary at the Union of Journalists of Russia, is one of the three men who wrote the first glasnost-era Soviet and then Russian law on mass media. The legislation freed the press from official censorship and has acquired an almost holy status among Russian liberals and free speech advocates, who tend to see any attempt to amend it as a government-sponsored assault on free speech. At the same time, since the high-profile media conflicts of the past years, advocates of the law have come to accept that a new law is needed to include realities such as private media owners and Internet publications that did not exist in the early 1990s.

Fedotov said that his draft, which is

posted on the Union of Journalists’ web site (www.ruj.ru), would create a buffer between the state-owned media and its government owners. The state would not be able to partially own a media outlet as it currently does with ORT. Also, advertising would be limited in state-owned media.

Internet sites would be able to register as mass media, but on a strictly voluntary basis.

Lawmakers said the draft, which was written two years ago, was submitted to the State Duma on June 20, just two days after President Vladimir Putin met with a group of top media executives. He conceded that the Law on Mass Media contradicted newer laws and urged the executives to draft legislation to build up a “civilized media business.”

“Since [Putin] expressed the political will, we decided to submit this bill,” Reznik said.

Khakamada said she thought enough support could be drummed up in the Duma to pass the legislation.

She noted that the deputies had changed tactics by presenting Fedotov’s bill before the Kremlin announced a draft of its own.

“Otherwise they will switch on the [Duma] voting machine, and it will be hard to do anything,” she said.

It was not clear Thursday how the Press Ministry and other relevant government agencies would react to the deputies’ move.

Deputy Press Minister Mikhail Seslavinsky, who is in charge of the ministry’s relations with parliament, could not be reached for comment, and other officials refused to discuss the issue.

Reznik said that the ministry had absorbed much of Fedotov’s draft into its own version of a media bill and was displeased that the lawmakers had released their bill first.

Khakamada warned that the bill faced a “big battle” in the Duma.

MOSCOW — In the Chechen town of Itum-Kale, a battleground for federal troops and Chechen rebels two years ago, a newly built mineral-water bottling plant was seen as a symbol of the transition from war to peace.

But only days before the local administration was to hold a ceremony officially opening the plant last week, it was washed away by the flood waters that swept southern Russia. In addition to the factory, 109 houses in Itum-Kale were demolished when the Argun River overflowed its banks, leaving almost 400 of the town’s 950 residents homeless.

“The disaster has made a mess of all our plans. Everything we managed to rebuild after the war was washed away,” Elbek Uzuyev, head of the district administration, said in a telephone interview from Itum-Kale this week.

Itum-Kale in southern Chechnya is just one of 360 villages and towns ravaged by the floods that hit nine regions last month, killing almost 100 people and leaving thousands homeless.

The floods destroyed or damaged 1,717 kilometers of highway, 448 bridges, 6 kilometers of railway, 121 factories, 134 kilometers of gas pipelines and 1,189 kilometers of powerlines, the Emergency Situations Ministry says.

Prime Minister Mikhail Kasyanov ordered the government to allocate 1.8 billion rubles ($57 million) to rebuild houses and buy apartments for those who lost their homes, and most of the money, 1.15 billion rubles, has already been released, Finance Ministry spokesman Pyotr Afanasyev said Thursday, adding that the remaining 650 million rubles are to be allocated within days.

So far, the money has not been well spent, according to Emergency Situations Minister Sergei Shoigu. Speaking Thursday on RTR televsion, he criticized the State Construction Committee, or Gosstroi, for its slow work and poor organization in restoring the damaged houses. Shoigu said only 4 percent

The Emergency Situations Ministry estimated the damage caused by the flood at 13.5 billion rubles.

The bulk of the work restoring water and electricity and repairing major roads was to have been completed by Friday, when Kasyanov is to hold a cabinet meeting to sum up the results of the work, Interfax reported.

The country’s economy as a whole also will not suffer significantly, said Yevgeny Gavrilenkov, chief economist at Troika Dialog.

“Though the damage is considerable, we should not expect it to have a heavy impact on the country’s economy or on the pace of the economy’s growth,” he said.

Agriculture Minister Alexei Gordeyev said earlier this week that the effect on this year’s grain harvest will be minimal, with losses of 0.10 percent to 0.15 percent. Of the 2.4 million hectares of grain in the Southern Federal District, 130,000 hectares were lost to the floods, he said.

The regions, however, will be hard pressed to cope. “The majority of the problems will be social rather than economic, and the main burden will be with the regions,” Gavrilenkov said.

In the affected regions, where local residents and emergency workers from

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Disease Takes Friedman, 51

■ MOSCOW (SPT) — Although Russia and the U.S. have reached agreement on a number of issues, almost two thirds of the Russian population believe that relations between the two countries are strained, according to a survey carried out by sociologists for monitoring.ru.

Interfax reported Thursday that 1,400 St. Petersburgers were surveyed, and 65 percent categorized relations between Moscow and Washington as being negative, 27 percent reported that they were positive and 9 percent were undecided.

NEWSDAY

Sennaya Goes Back ■ ST. PETERSBURG (SPT) — According to reconstruction plans, Sennaya Ploshad is to be restored to its original appearance, Interfax reported.

In order to make the restoration historically accurate, 58 trees are to be planted and benches and street lamps are to be installed. The square will also be decorated with a fountain, marking the area where horses were watered in the 19th century. Documents and plans have been studied in order to maximize the accuracy of the work, the agency reported.

The square will also feature market pavilions; the sidewalk will be paved with artificial and granite slabs; and work will be carried out on partially rebuilding the underground engineering of the square.

Soldier Dies in Ditch REUTERS

Sad Stage

Members of Moscow’s Bolshoi Theater performing Mussorgsky’s “Boris Godunov” at the monastery where Pushkin, who wrote the original play, is buried.

elsewhere in Russia are busy restoring roads, bridges, power and water supplies, the main fear of many local administrations is that the funds from Moscow will be slow to arrive and the amount will not be sufficient to cover the damage.

“We absolutely must house all those who have become homeless before the winter cold sets in, and we have nothing to count on but the federal aid,” Zhanna Makhova, deputy head of the Armavir district administration in the Krasnodar region, said in a telephone interview from Armavir.

She said the disaster left about 8,000 people homeless in her district, and they are being housed temporarily in tent camps and in buildings in areas not affected by the floods. A total of 1,904 houses were washed away in the town of Armavir, the village of Krasnaya Polyana and in Staraya Stanitsa, located across the Kuban River from Armavir.

Uzuyev from Itum-Kale shared Makhova’s serious concerns that the federal funding might take a long time to arrive.

“We have had to rebuild houses, roads and bridges before and we know what it is like waiting for financing from the government,” Uzuyev said.

Not only is the amount of money allocated by the Finance Ministry not nearly enough to cover the damages, “there is a chance that part of the allocated funds will disappear,” Gavrilenko said. Federal funds have had a habit of going missing, through corruption and mismanagement, especially in Chechnya.

Makhova said the flood in the Armavir region washed away almost all of the old residential buildings, which were built in the 1960s and long needed to be rebuilt. But even if new buildings are put up, the Kuban River, which swells almost every year due to heavy rains, will remain a danger for the town of Armavir, which sits on its banks.

“We need to fortify the bank of the river, but the expenses are too high for our budget,” Makhova said.

B R I E F

Good Friends?

By Pete Bowles NEW YORK — Robert Friedman, an investigative reporter whose work provoked death threats from the Russian mob and beatings from militant Jews, died Tuesday night of complications from a rare disease he contracted while on a crusading assignment in India.

“His illness was scarier than any of the other threats ever were, and harder to fight,” said Friedman’s wife, Christine Dugas, a reporter at USA Today.

Friedman, 51, died at Columbia Presbyterian Hospital in New York City of heart complications resulting from an autoimmune disorder he got while reporting seven years ago about AIDS, prostitution and political corruption in Bombay.

Friedman’s book “Red Mafiya,” published in 2000, came after he learned from the FBI that a major Russian organized crime figure had taken out a $100,000 contract on his life. At least two death threats were the result of articles he wrote for three major magazines on how Russian mobsters had infiltrated the criminal underworld of North America.

“He was a pioneer when there was nobody else out there,” said Robert Levinson, a former FBI agent familiar with Friedman’s reporting on the Russian mob. “I packed a sidearm for 28 years.

Robbie had only his notebook and pen.”

Despite his debilitating illness, Friedman had continued to work and had just completed a book proposal.

of the 62,000 damaged residential buildings have been restored.

His ministry preliminarily estimated the damage caused by the flood at 13.5 billion rubles ($4.3 billion), but the federal government does not plan to foot the entire bill.

Under a government resolution on measures to cope with the flood damage, powerlines are to be restored by Unified Energy Systems while restoration of gas pipelines is the responsibility of the state-controlled natural gas monopoly, Gazprom.

■ MOSCOW (AP) — A 20-year-old Russian soldier was killed when the walls of a ditch he was digging far from his military base, on orders of his battal-

ion chief officer, collapsed, the InterfaxMilitary News Agency said Thursday.

Military prosecutors have opened a criminal case against the officer, who directed eight soldiers to dig the ditch at a settlement of summer houses several kilometers from their base in the village of Funkovo in the Moscow region, the agency reported. The work had no connection with the soldiers’ military duties.

Anti-Semitic Sign ■ VLADIVOSTOK, Far East (AP) — Police sappers in the Pacific port of Vladivostok on Thursday gingerly removed an anti-Semitic sign from the side of a road and blew up suspicious-looking sacks that were wired to the poster.

The hand-painted sign, saying “Death to Jews,” appeared to be inspired by a similar placard, rigged with explosives, that was placed on a highway outside Moscow in May. When a passer-by tried to take down that sign, it blew up in her face, burning her and injuring her eyes.

Hostage Raid Verdict ■ ROSTOV-NA-DONU, Southern Russia (AP) — A court in the southern Russian city of Stavropol sentenced five men Wednesday to several years in prison for taking part in a 1995 hostage raid by Chechen rebels that ended with more than 100 people dead.

The defendants were convicted in a trial in a maximum-security prison of charges including hostage-taking, illegal purchase and possession of weapons and banditry, said Vladimir Namyotkin, spokesman for the Stavropol regional police.

Business

The St. Petersburg Times

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FRIDAY, JULY 5, 2002

Agreement on Importing Ford Gears Up To Open Plant Of U.S. Poultry ‘Closer’

By Angelina Davydova

SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

By Alla Startseva STAFF WRITER

MOSCOW — A top U.S. agriculture official said Wednesday that the prolonged spat over American poultry imports to Russia was nearing an end, and normal trade would resume shortly.

J.B. Penn, U.S. Department of Agriculture undersecretary for farm and foreign agricultural services, was speaking after two days of negotiations with the Agriculture Ministry. Both sides said the talks had resolved several key issues over the imports.

“My judgment is that we are very close to completing the development of a new [import] certificate, and the discussions are continuing,” Penn said. “And we are extremely hopeful that we can resolve the poultry issue.”

Russia, the No. 1 market for imports of American poultry, banned the meat in March, citing concerns about sanitary conditions at U.S. plants and cases of salmonella in imported chicken. The ban was lifted a month later, after Washington promised to tighten export controls, but Moscow insisted that the United States revise its poultry health certificate to correspond with Russian safety demands.

Russia gave the United States two months to reach an agreement on the new certificate, but that goal has eluded negotiators. The Agriculture Ministry extended the deadline until Aug. 1 and threatened to reimpose the ban at that time if the United States failed to update the certificates.

Deputy Agriculture Minister Sergei Dankvert said Wednesday that Penn had proposed pushing the deadline to Oct. 1, but no decision to that effect has been made.

Dankvert warned that U.S. poultry

exporters would already have to call off shipments at the start of the second week of July to prevent the meat from going to waste, should the new certificate not be ready by the Aug. 1 deadline.

Penn, however, was upbeat about the dispute.

“I am pleased to say that we have narrowed our differences substantially and reduced the number of outstanding issues to a very few,” he said.

Penn said the unresolved issues concerned testing procedures, practices at processing plants and the information that is included with the shipments.

Dankvert said this week’s talks resolved the issue of how much chlorine U.S. farmers could use in breeding. The Americans agreed to use less chlorine.

Meanwhile, Penn said he was disappointed with a decision by the Economic Development and Trade Ministry on Monday to increase import duties on chicken. The ministry opened an investigation into whether U.S. poultry was being dumped on the market after the Russian Association of Poultry Producers complained that the growth of poultry imports was hurting Russian farms. The association said imports grew from 235,400 tons in 1999 to 687,000 tons in 2000 and 1.3 million tons in 2001.

The ministry said it would raise tariffs while it looks into the complaint but has not yet determined by how much. The poultry import duty is currently 25 percent but not less than 0.2 euros ($0.20) per kilogram. A ministry source said the duty would be raised by 8.3 percent to 33.3 percent, Vedomosti reported.

“We were disappointed to see the decision to impose additional duties,” Penn said.

Both the U.S. and Russia reported that the talks had resolved several key issues over the imports.

Ford Motor Co. expects its sales in Russia to double in 2003, following the launch of its new production plant in Vsevolozhsk in the Leningrad Oblast.

The plant will produce the Ford Focus, which will be on sale at a price of $10,900.

The Ford plant plans to produce 2,369 cars in 2002, with the facility having a full capacity of 25,000 cars per year, the plant’s General Director Murray Gilbert said, speaking at the plant on Tuesday.

The first Russian-made Ford Focus will be made available in September. Ford stopped importing the Focus model in April, according to Gilbert, though domestic dealers still have another 300 imported cars left on their books.

The price of the basic model, a 1.6liter, five-door Ford Focus produced at the Vsevolozhsk plant, was made public on Tuesday, following much debate and discussion of the subject in the local automobile press. At $10,900, the price compares well with that of the same imported model, which retails at $13,900.

Ford Motor Co has invested $150 million in Russian production and employs approximately 800 people locally. The plant will produce a total of four different models of the Ford Focus.

In 2001, only 7 percent of the total number of cars sold in Russia were new foreign imports (62 percent were produced by Russian manufacturers, while 31 percent were second-hand foreign cars). Ford’s market share for new imported cars is currently 5.5 percent, with the company occupying 9th place for sales among foreign automobile manufacturers.

At present there are several foreign-car manufacturers with production plants in Russia, including BMW in Kaliningrad, Daewoo in RostovNa-Donu, and Citroen in Taganrog.

Ford, however, maintains that the new Ford plant will be the first to provide a complete manufacturing facility.

Gilbert said that the plant encompasses the full production cycle, with

SERGEY GRACHEV/SPT

Workers assembling a Ford Focus at the new plant, which officially opens on July 9. assembly, welding and painting all tak- Philip Morris.”

Commenting on the success of the ing place on site.

Ford Russia President Henrik Nen- Ford plant, he said that, “Thanks to zen said that production based in Russia investors like Ford, we can see will allow high tariffs on new imported growth in industrial production, cars, reaching $1,870 per vehicle, to be which has gone up 40.1 percent in the avoided. Imported-car tariffs are ex- first five months of 2002. Apart from pected to rise even further in the next that, it partially solves the problem of unemployment – more than 80 perfew months.

Under an agreement reached with cent of Ford’s employees here are the federal authorities in 1999, Ford has Leningrad-Oblast inhabitants”.

A St. Petersburg Renault dealer, also gained an exemption from import duties on components from Europe, on who spoke on condition of anonymity, the condition that, by 2007, 50 percent said that there is a good chance that the of its components be locally produced. demand for Ford cars will increase as a The company has already signed five result of the local production facilities, but it will not overcome the demand for contracts with Russian suppliers.

Ford also plans to attract Russian second-hand foreign cars, which precustomers by offering a special credit-fa- dominantly cost far below the $10,000 cility program, together with the Inter- price level, and for new Russian-pronational Industrial Bank and the Rus- duced cars.

Ford has a long history of work in sian Interregional Development Bank.

In a telephone interview on Thurs- Russia. One of Russia’s leading car day, Valery Serdyukov, governor of manufacturers, GAZ, was established the Leningrad Oblast, where the new in Nizhny Novgorod in 1929, as the reFord plant is located, said that, “The sult of an agreement between the Soopening of the Ford plant shows that viet government and Ford Co. The first major investors are interested in co- Ford AA model was produced at the operating with the Leningrad Oblast. GAZ plant in 1932. A few years later, We started work with such investors due to financial and political disagreein 1998, and the first to appear was ments, Ford quit the project.

No. 2 Russian Aluminum Producer Plans To Go Public

By Torrey Clark STAFF WRITER

MOSCOW — SUAL, the country’s second-largest aluminum producer, aims to go public next year and is looking for financing for a $2-billion startup, company President Viktor Vekselberg said Wednesday.

“The question of an IPO [initial pubic offering] is not about how ready we are,” Vekselberg said at an American Chamber of Commerce conference. “It is purely economic. It must be done at the right time, in the right place, with the right partner.”

“I believe it would be optimal to do it next year, if there are no financial crises,” he said.

He did not say whether the company would target the domestic or foreign markets or the amount it wanted to raise.

SUAL has grand plans to improve its four existing aluminum smelters, moving over to the latest, cleaner, technology. The changeover at its Urals plant will come later this year, followed in 2003 by Kandalaksha, in the arctic Murmanskaya Oblast, SUAL officials said. The company plans to invest $80 million in mining, modernization and expansion in 2002.

SUAL also intends to build a new $460-million smelter that will be able to turn out 200,000 tons of primary metal at its Irkutsk aluminum plant. The project should take about five years.

Another strategic goal at SUAL is increasing manufactured products, Vekselberg said. Russia exports 13 percent

of its manufactured products, while it imports 59 percent of the goods currently available on the domestic market, he said.

In preparation for going public, SUAL moved its four main smelters to a single share in January 2001, as well as two of three silicon producers.

The SUAL group includes 12 other cable, mining and aluminum-product manufacturers.

“We are working toward consolidating the company in a way that is understandable for foreigners,” said SUAL spokesperson Alexei Goncharov.

He said SUAL would offer a stake in the consolidated group, rather than in any one division.

Depending on market conditions, SUAL may choose to place a stake with a strategic investor, Goncharov said.

Vekselberg said that SUAL also intends to raise financing for a planned $2billion Komi Aluminum company. Komi Aluminum would be a fully integrated bauxite mining, alumina and aluminum production site, 900 kilometers northeast of Moscow.

SUAL has already invested $100 million and is ready to lay out another $250 million for the first half of the project, Vekselberg said in an interview.

SUAL will sell up to 70 percent in the Komi project if compatible strategic investors are found, Vekselberg said.

A large part of the start-up bill will be financed with debt: Sberbank has agreed to provide loans and SUAL has approached other domestic and inter-

national banks, he said. The company is also looking at tapping the corporate bond market.

“We’d like the investor in Komi Aluminum to regard the project as its main business: whether an aluminum company or an end user,” Goncharov said. “If we get a portfolio investor, we could end up with share redistribution … instead of investment. This could slow the project.”

Komi Aluminum will be built up as a separate company “with no history,” that is, only the latest technology, Goncharov said. “Alcoa, for example, doesn’t invest in Soderberg technology. … The project needs to meet the blue chips’ demands.”

The new company will have bauxite reserves of at least 250 million tons, or 50 years of mining. It would produce up to 1.5 million tons of alumina, the inter-

mediate material, and 750,000 tons of aluminum, more than twice SUAL’s output of 620,000 tons last year.

SUAL posted revenues of $1.3 billion under Russian accounting standards in 2001. SUAL plans to have 2001 consolidated statements audited to international standards by the end of this year.

No. 1 aluminum producer RusAl has also been considering an initial public offering. RusAl CEO Oleg Deripaska said in April that the company may float shares and issue bonds to finance new plants in two years.

Analysts cautioned that, in an uncertain global economy, facing increases in Chinese aluminum production and the resumption of mothballed production in the northwest United States, a new aluminum plant could push down market prices.

Slavneft Resumes Exporting of Oil ASSOCIATED PRESS

MOSCOW — Oil company Slavneft resumed exports of crude and refined products Wednesday after a five-day halt caused by a standoff over the company leadership.

Slavneft President Yury Sukhanov and other senior employees had been locked out of the company’s head office since June 27, when police stormed the offices after business hours as part of a search for evidence in connection with an embezzlement investigation against him. He was allowed back in on Tuesday.

The Slavneft management said that the company, which is majority owned by the Russian government, lost $7 million each day that it could not go ahead with exports.

OPEN LOOK

The 4 International Contemporary Dance Festival th

supported by U.S. Consulate General and Polish Consulate General in St. Petersburg

the world’s leading dance companies Theater of Young Spectators (1 Pionerskaya Pl.) S’Tantsia Theater (34 Ul. Dekabristov)

For tickets and information call 114-2027

July 1 ........ Kannon Dance (Russia) July 2 ........ Russian contemporary dance companies July 3, 4 ...... Dayton Contemporary Dance Company (USA) July 5 ........ Ragamala Dance Company (USA/India) July 6 ........ Risa Jaroslow (USA) and Piekarskie Klachule choir (Poland) July 7 ........ Frank&Bryan (USA), Gastana (Israel) July 8 ........ Battery Dance Company (USA) July 9 ........ Aurinkobaletti (Finland), Laroque (Austria), Renate Keerd (Estonia) July 10 ...... GALA CONCERT

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Quick Blame Just Flying to A Conclusion

Yeltsin’s Return Is a Bolshevik Comeback

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By Alexei Pankin

CHARTERED plane from Bashkortostan collides with a Boeing flown by DHL in airspace controlled by Switzerland. Bashkortostan — DHL — Switzerland. Which would you first suspect to be the weakest link?

So when Swiss air-traffic controllers called a news conference Tuesday morning in the first waking hours after the crash and said the Russian pilot had ignored the first two instructions to change course, it seemed more than likely that we were looking at yet another screw-up in Russian aviation.

Maybe the pilot didn’t speak English and didn’t understand the instructions. Maybe he was unqualified.

But as it turns out, the pilot, according to his airline, was highly experienced and spoke English, a claim backed up by Austrian air-traffic controllers who spoke to him earlier in the flight.

It is the Swiss air-traffic controllers whose competence, and honesty, is looking downright shaky.

First they said the Tu-154 pilot was given a two-minute warning that he was on a collision course, but they changed their story when challenged by German investigators and admitted the pilot had been alerted only 50 seconds before the crash. Fifty seconds!

Then we learn that an automatic system designed to alert Swiss traffic-controllers when planes are on a collision course was off at the time — it was shut down for maintenance (how Soviet can you get?) — and the air-traffic controller in charge was working alone while his partner took a break.

Officials at Skyguide, the Swiss air traffic control company, gave conflicting accounts Wednesday on whether the rules allow for having one person on duty when the automatic warning system is not working. But common sense says they should not.

If the lone air-traffic controller contacted the Tupolev pilot with so little time to spare, did he even attempt to contact the Boeing pilot? There has been no word yet that he did.

It was 25 seconds before the crash that the Russian plane responded to the warning and nose-dived. It was only after that that the Boeing descended, its pilot alerted by an on-board collision avoidance system, which tracks nearby planes and issues voice recommendations for how to avoid them.

The two maneuvers merely put the planes back on a collision course.

Patrick Herr, a spokesperson for Swiss air traffic control, told The Washington Post that there are two mysteries. “Firstly, why the Tupolev pilot didn’t react straight away. And secondly, why the automatic warning system of the Boeing also gave a descent order.”

The bigger mystery is why the air-trafficcontrol system failed to do its job.

Derk Sauer, CEO Stephan Grootenboer, General Director Tatyana Shalygina, Publisher Sergey Podoinitsyn, Managing Director Thomas Rymer, Editor Peter Morley, Arts Editor Tobin Auber, Business Editor Dmitry Dervenjov, Designer Mikhail Glusker, Webmaster Tatiana Turikova, Advertising Director Maria Berntseva, Marketing and Public-Relations Manager Alla Kalinovskaya, Production Manager Founding company: OOO Neva Media Publishing company: OOO Neva Media 4 St. Isaac’s Sq., St. Petersburg, Russia.

Copyright © 2002 The St. Petersburg Times. All Rights Reserved. Northwest Regional Department of the Russian Federal Press Committee, Registration PI No. 2-4636 July 1, 2000. Address: 190000, Russia, St. Petersburg, 4 St. Isaac’s Square. Telephone/Fax: (7-812) 325-60-80, Fax: (7-812) 314-21-20. E-mail: postmaster@sptimesrussia.com Internet: http://www.sptimesrussia.com The St. Petersburg Times is a free publication.

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“He might get embarassed. Act like you haven’t noticed.”

Understanding Terror

By Fred Hiatt THE WASHINGTON POST

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.S. President George W. Bush last week embraced President Vladimir Putin as a fellow foe of terrorism. “President Putin has been a stalwart in the fight against terror,” Bush said as the two leaders stood shoulder to shoulder in Canada. “He understands the threat of terror, because he has lived through terror.”

“He has lived through terror” — what could that mean? Bush presumably was talking about Chechnya, whose inhabitants, or at least some of whose inhabitants, have been waging a war of independence. Putin has frequently portrayed these Chechen fighters as terrorists, as some clearly are, and Bush was endorsing that official Moscow view.

But if, terror is, by definition, the harming of innocent civilians in order to frighten a larger population, then the chief terrorists in Russia today work for Putin — they are his soldiers and police. Bush understood this once. The question is what he thinks is to be gained by pretending it is no longer true.

A recent reminder of Russian terror came in a dispatch Saturday by The Washingon Post’s Sharon LaFraniere, who described a zachistka, or cleansing operation, in Mesker Yurt, a Chechen village of about 2,000 only 11 kilometers from the supposedly pacified capital of Grozny.

Based on interviews with relatives and survivors, LaFraniere described what has become standard operating practice for Russian troops: how they surrounded the village and rounded up the males; how they released some in exchange for bribes and took those who could not pay to a field outside the village; how some of these men were later returned with fingers chopped off, an eye gouged out, a back that had been sliced by jagged glass, then doused with alcohol and set afire.

The relatives told about how, as always, some of the men did not come back. And about how, when the soldiers departed and the relatives went to the field, they found, in freshly dug furrows, parts of bodies that appeared to have been blown to pieces with explosives.

“He’s seen terror firsthand, and he knows the threat of terrorism,” Bush said last week.

These Russian tactics are nothing new. Russian troops fought and lost one war in Chechnya from 1994 to 1996, and Putin launched another before Bush was elected president. Cities have been reduced to rubble and a population that once numbered 1 million is largely dead, displaced or cowering.

“It is troubling for me as a potential president to see use of force on innocent civilians,” candi-

date Bush told Russia’s foreign minister in April 2000. He and his national security adviser, Condoleezza Rice, criticized Bill Clinton for continuing to send aid to Russia even as the Chechen war proceeded. “When Bill Clinton compared Boris Yeltsin in Chechnya to Abraham Lincoln, what signal did that send to states around Russia’s periphery?”

Rice asked.

The war now gets less attention than before. That’s in part because Putin has muzzled much of his domestic media, especially the broadcast media; in part because reporters in Chechnya have been attacked and kidnapped by both sides, and so few dare go; in part because European governments, though still terribly concerned for Palestinians, have pretty much given up on championing human rights in Chechnya. (Putin can export a lot more gas and oil than Ariel Sharon.)

And in large part, it’s because Bush has slipped effortlessly into the Clinton role he once criticized: excusing, enabling, pretending. “He understands what I understand, that there won’t be peace if terrorists are allowed to kill and take innocent life,” Bush said. “And therefore I view President Putin as an ally.”

This transformation is no mystery. Bush wants Putin’s acquiescence in the stationing of U.S. troops in Central Asia, and his cooperation in securing Russia’s nuclear and biological weapons.

Chechnya just seems less important. And because there are Arab terrorists among the Chechen fighters, and Chechens who have attacked Russian civilians, it is easy to pretend that Putin’s war and America’s are parallel; just another useful inconsistency in the war on terror, like promoting democracy in Palestine but not Egypt, women’s rights in Afghanistan but not Saudi Arabia.

But no one is fooled, not even Russians, who can see the difference between a war of liberation in Afghanistan and of oppression in Chechnya. “The West’s support of your attempts to present the war as a counterterrorism operation is strictly temporary,” Ivan Rybkin, a former State Duma speaker, wrote in an open letter to Putin last week. “It is a tactic used by the United States to promote its own geopolitical objectives. In the long run, this solution — like the war itself — will not lead us anywhere.”

The Bush pretense comes at a cost, in other words, and not just a moral one.

Over time, Americans will not support, nor will Russians respect, a war that recognizes evil only when convenient.

Because there are Arabs fighting with the Chechens, it is easy to pretend the situations are parallel.

Fred Hiatt is a columnist for The Washington Post, where this comment first appeared.

ECENTLY, both television and the newspapers have started to talk about the “second coming” of Boris Yeltsin.

Having observed Yeltsin’s goings-on, I think I have come up with the very national idea that Russia’s best Alexei Pankin and brightest have been racking their brains over for some time. In a nutshell, it is the following: We need to create a society that would rule out the possibility of people such as Yeltsin finding their way into major-league politics.

Allow me to explain. I once came up with a formula to explain the tragedy of Mikhail Gorbachev’s reforms: And Gorbachev said to the people, “Do whatever you like, but just behave decently.” It transpired, however, that all people really wanted to do was to behave badly. In other words, the moment we received the right to vote for the first time in our history, we elected Yeltsin as our president.

Remember what Yeltsin said at the start of his “democratic” career as a result of which his fellow Russians fell in love with him: The communist exploiters are to blame for all our woes, and we must to strip the nomenklatura of all its privileges and distribute them equitably among the common people. Exactly the same thing was proposed by the Bolsheviks in 1917: The landowner-exploiters and capitalists are to blame for everything, “let us expropriate the expropriators” and hand everything over to the people. Some 70 years later, the citizens of Russia chose exactly the same kind of Bolshevik, only this time they did it in a free election.

Bolshevism is not so much an ideology as it is a temperament and character trait: It is a belief in the idea that the truth has been revealed to you and that only you and a willingness to assert your version of the truth even on the bones of your fellow citizens, not stopping at anything, particularly when your power is in danger. The ideological wrapping can in fact be extremely “democratic.”

It is worth recalling some of the things we went through under Yeltsin: the bombardment of a legally elected parliament in 1993; completely senseless carnage in Chechnya; economic reform that led to penury and loss of dignity for millions of people; “freedom of speech” that was on sale to the highest bidder; and, lastly, the endless squabbling that was supposed to pass for politics.

In short, Lenin and Mao rolled into one, making some allowances for a general softening of mores toward the end of the 20th century.

We have been living for less than three years without Yeltsin and the country has calmed down, the Communists have been tamed, we respect ourselves once again and are respected internationally.

I did not vote for Yeltsin, but I am part of a country that has the bad habit of sometimes imposing Bolsheviks on themselves. And that is why I am proposing my own national idea: the elimination of Bolshevism in all its guises and manifestations.

And the West can render invaluable assistance in this task. Let it shower Yeltsin with respect and esteem and organize for him a series of lecture tours that take up 365 days a year. And the further away from Russia the better.

Alexei Pankin is the editor of Sreda, a magazine for media professionals [www.internews.ru/sreda].

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Excellent view from the windows. $2,300 per month, $100 per day.

Tel.: 325-4020, Petersburgskaya Nedvizhimost Agency

FIVE ROOMS Tavricheskaya Ul./Kirochnaya Ul. Very spacious and bright four-sides apartment. Total area: 188 sq. m. Living room: 32 sq. m. Dining room: 22 sq. m. Study: 22 sq. m. Bedrooms: 24 + 26 sq. m. Kitchen. Hall: 20 sq. m.

Bathroom: 16 sq. m. High quality Western-standard renovation. New furniture and home appliances.

Heated floors. Jacuzzi. Shower cabin.

Two marble washstands. Satellite TV. Two entrances. Renovated, clean staircases. $4,000 per month. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. E-mail: megarent@realtor.spb.ru

SIX ROOMS

UL. RUBINSHTEINA. 24-hour security, 279 sq. m. Jacuzzi. $3,500 per month. Tel.: 325-6277, PULFORD www.pulford.com

PROPERTY FOR SALE Nab. Reki Moiki. Sunny, top-floor apartment, with a fantastic view of the river, in A1 condition. Spacious balconied reception with fireplace, linked to open-plan, fully fitted and equipped kitchen. Two bedrooms, two bathrooms. Modern, bright throughout including polished wooden floors.

Decor in neutral colors. Easy walk to Nevsky Pr. For more information, call

A well-proportioned, light, two-bedroom apartment by a Western owner, within five-minute walk from Nevsky Pr. The apartment is renovated to Western standards with fully fitted IKEA kitchen (13 sq. m.) Located on the top floor with elevator. Asking price $80,000.

Call COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL at 1183618. E-mail: colliers@colliers.spb.ru.

NO AGENCY FEE! Small, but perfectly formed, cozy, second-floor one-bedroom apartment on Povarskoi Per. near Nevsky Pr. Fitted, furnished and decorated to a good standard, by a Western owner.

Offered for sale. $45,000. For more information, call COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL at 118-3618. E-mail: colliers@colliers.spb.ru.

For the first time ever

Russian sacred music concerts in St. IsaacÕs Cathedral Night view of the city from the colonnade.

With the support of Saint Petersburg Bank general information sponsor

June 28, July 6, 10, 13, 17, 20 at 10 p.m.

A compact, one-bedroom, top-floor apartment on the Petrograd Side close to the metro station.

Accommodation comprises a bedroom, lounge, bathroom, fitted kitchen. The apartment benefits from wooden floors, doors and in good condition. Ready to move in. Offered for sale furnished or unfurnished for $40,000. For more information, call COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL at 1183618. E-mail: colliers@colliers.spb.ru.

NO AGENCY FEE. Malaya Konyushennaya Ul. THE PERFECT ONE. Located on reconstructed pedestrian street in the historical center of the city. Entrance from the street. Windows overlooking the street and Nevsky Pr. Fifth and sixth floors of a six-floor building. Total area: 310 sq. m. Two floors. Five rooms: 200 sq. m. Kitchen: 35 sq. m. (trimmed with white wood).

Dutch stove. Balcony. Secure.

Video control system at the entrance. $545,000. For more information, call MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency at 542-8511 (English) or 242-1594 (Russian). Email: megapolis@realtor.spb.ru

312-2600 Over 3,800 available women from St. Petersburg

Svetlana Agency CAR RENTAL

VISAS The cheapest and easiest way to get visas through INTERNATIONAL HOSTEL! Tel.: 329-8018, e-mail: ryh@ryh.ru

200 sq. m. Ready for renovation. Two staircases. Center. Ul. Chekhova.

No comission. Western owner. Tel.: 8-911-221-2513.

E-mail: wallypus@hotmail.com NEVSKY PROSTOR Ltd.Commercial property. A building for sale close to Nevsky Pr.. For more information, call 325-3838, NEVSKY PROSTOR AGENCY. www.spb-estate.com

MARRIAGE AGENCIES

GUIDES

THE CHEAPEST WAY TO GET A RUSSIAN VISA.

English. Excursions. Guide. Driver. Email: palmira@mailru.com

3/21 Nalichnaya Ul. Tel.: 322-3122 E-mail: utservice@mail.ru

Licenced guide, interpreter. Tel.: 2723395, 8-911-930-9876

Visas and Registration

Guide/interpreter/driver. Car with air conditioning. English. Tel.: 9345784, Gennady. www.spbguide.plex.ru

Fast and Reliable 7(812) 312-3705, 314-7953 dmg@comset.net 4 St. Isaac’s Square. Of. 172

Russian, English, German guide, car.

Tel.: 954-6024 English. Reasonable. Car. Friendly.

Tel.: 955-3909.

French, English. Guide, car. Tel.: 1100195, 8-911-918-6104

PIANO LESSONS Piano lessons. Any level, any age.

Tel.: 114-8261, Yevgeny.

(English).

LANGUAGE LESSONS Russian lessons. Tel.: 461-7930, 127-0547, Natasha.

English. Native. Business, conversational, editing, translations. Tel.: 955-3909

TRAVEL

INTERPRETING/ TRANSLATING

Vacation in Karelia. www.nor dictravel.r u E-mail: nordictravel@onego.ru

eurolang.pisem.net; Tel.: 511-4222, Dmitry. E-mail: socion@hotbox.ru, experienced.

“An Exclusive Meeting Place”

Meet the woman of your dreams at the Party of your dreams.

July 19, 2002. Mid Summer Party Call today 325-9090, 325-6085 St. Petersburg, Russia, Beverly Hills, USA, Newport Beach, USA 3 Kanal Griboyedova www.SvetlanaAgency.com

PERSONALS 55-year-old, financially independent U.S. businessman, now in St. Petersburg, looking for slim, goodlooking woman age 25 to 39, no dependent children. Possible longterm relationship/marriage. E-mail: tonyshinas@hotmail.com Include age, height, weight, phone number and photo if possible. Tel.: 3142633 (until July 12).

Two intelligent ladies seek two reliable men for serious relationship.

Tel.: 8-911-210-2536, 955-9318, Tatyana.

The largest marriage agency Fortuna In the center of the city 4/2 M. Konyushennaya, without days off.

311-6136; 989-0042 www.fortuna.spb.ru

Classic The Leading Marriage Club (812) 310-0373 50 Gorokhovaya Ul. (in the yard) e-mail: classic@into.spb.ru www.classic.spb.ru

Happy marriage & free choice!

Saint Petersburg Agency City Center 325-9791 (daily, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.) http://www.gimeney.com For Ladies and Gentlemen Intelligent service for intelligent people

Marriage & introduction agency

W

NAB. REKI FONTANKI. By the Circus.

Bay windows, sauna. $2,500 per month. Tel.: 325-6277, PULFORD. www.pulford.com

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL at 1183618. E-mail: colliers@colliers.spb.ru.

ANNOUNCEMENT

For additional information, call Anna or Olga (812) 325-6080.

E-mail: annav@sptimes.ru

Liza

www.liza-escort.spb.ru (812) 934-3471 (24 hours, English)

American businessman and poet, Bill Jongbloed, frequently in SPb on business, seeks Russian lady 35 to 40 for possible marriage. I am a tall (195 centimeters), athletic Leo with green eyes and dark wavy blond hair. Interested, non smoking, ladies please contact me via email with a letter about yourself, photos and a telephone number to: billjongbloed@zianet.com

Marriage & Introduction Agency

Intelligent, tall lady is looking for responsible handsome man. Only for marriage. Tel.: 8-921-6570770.

938-3686

Lolita We speak English and German

921-9700 (24 hours)

Marriage Agency

www.elitegirls.spb.ru 24 hours

Interesting German engineer (52 years young) is looking for nice sympathetic woman for long-term relationship in Hamburg. Don’t be shy, just try. Please call my Russian friend Rustam at 931-7314 (through July 14).

England-based affluent professional, 39+, kind, cosmopolitan views, reliable, romantic, seeks 20+ tender, English-speaking, adventurous, nature, music-loving lady. Serious commitment. E-mail: engaj@hotmail.com Young professor (international policy/philosophy) based in Brussels is looking for an attractive young intelligent lady for a long-term relationship/marriage to create a family. I enjoy sports (thus very fit) and cultural events such as visiting museum and travelling. E-mail me with a photo and personal details, and you will get a photo in return: nijhofrene@hotmail.com

Matchmaking & dating agency

Elen-Anne Personal dating service.

Tel.: 909-7105 (English)

Veronica – Jane.

Matchmaking & dating agency.

Confidentiality guarantee.

Tel.: 324-6398, 910-4912.

24 hours

BOX it!

Want your Classified advertisement to stand out from the rest? Call 325 6080 for details. Ask for Classifieds.

Place it in a box like this.

Real Estate

www.sptimes.ru/realest find it here.

FRIDAY, JULY 5, 2002

To advertise, call Anna Varzina or Olga Safronova at 325-6080.

E-mail: annav@sptimes.ru

Every Tuesday and Friday

Apartments for rent best locations ■ long terms ■ short terms ■ huge database

APART−HOTEL

Apartments

Near the Hermitage 14 Moika

FOR RENT

■

325-3838 Licence N 78-013165

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL

www.spb-estate.com

Nevsky Prostor Ltd An Official Member of Real Estate Association

Tel.: 118-3618 Fax: 118-3616

What’s the view from your house?

colliers@colliers.spb.ru www.colliers.spb.ru

HOME TRUTH FLAT RENTALS • Central location • Any duration • To suit all price ranges

Short-term.

Long-term.

Your turn.

KVANT Daily rent Nevsky Pr. From $30

Tel.: 312-0290

ACCOMMODATION

Apar tments near Nevsky Pr. Any terms. Tel.: 325-8653, 322-2559.

Luxury apartment, in the center. Tel.: 3 1 5 - 1 9 1 7 . www.bednbreakfast.sp.ru

Two-level apartment on MILLIONNAYA UL. Total area: 170 sq. m.

Deluxe. Near the Hermitage. View of the Neva River. Kitchen with bar: 40 sq. m. Two bathrooms (jacuzzi, sauna). Secure marble entrance.

Parking. European furniture. $900 per month, $50 per day. Tel.: 3120290, 341-6018.

SUVOROFF HOUSE. Accommodation, city center, from $30 per day. Tel.: 275-1513. E-mail: bclub@peterlink.ru Hostel in the center of the city. Tel.: 3194462.E-mail: btamara@comset.net www.lekatravel.spb.ru International Hostel accommodation. Tel.: 329-8018. E-mail: ryh@ryh.ru, www.ryh.ru Featured hotels/rentals catalogue.

From $25 per day. Reservation. www.ltour.ru Accommodation. Center. 10 euros per day. Tel.: 952-9619. E-mail: bbspb@hotmail.com An ideal place to stay, a few minutes from the Hermitage. Different types of accommodation in 9 comfortable apartments (from 18 to 100 sq. m.) For one to six persons with separate full kitchen, satellite TV, Internet, air conditioning, restaurant “Puhka Inn” and other conveniences. Security. The main features at the “Pushka Inn” apartments are the personal care and attention we provide to our guests.

Tel.: 325-6354. E-mail: admin@pulford.ru, www.pulford.ru

APARTMENTS FOR RENT Open the door to your new home!

2- and 1-bedroom apartments 44 Kazanskaya Ul. secure parking, 24-hour security satellite TV, totally fitted kitchen

Nevsky Pr. $40 per day. Tel.: 1868839.

Nevsky Pr. $40 per day. Tel.: 9693624. www.duckling.narod.ru

SERVICED APARTMENTS, center, daily rent, comfort, privacy, services. Tel.: 325-6277, PULFORD www.pulford.com SUPER MODERN two-bedroom apartment. $100 per day. Tel.: 943-8975.

Comfortable apartments for rent on Nevsky Pr. Fully equipped.

Housemate. From $40 to $100 per day. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. Email: megarent@realtor.spb.ru

ONE ROOM Karavannaya Ul. New! Eurostandard. Total area: 70 sq. m. Dining room/kitchen: 30 sq. m. Bedroom: 20 sq. m. Beautiful furniture. Fully equipped. Jacuzzi, big bathroom (7 sq. m.) Safe parking. Shor t- or long-term stay.

Tel.: 543-8163, 949-4199, 3181120.

Karavannaya Ul. Total area: 100 sq. m. Cozy and quiet apar tment.

Windows overlooking Italian Garden. Fully equipped. Code. $1,600 per month. Negotiatable. $100 per night. INATA agency. Tel.: 919-8333.

E-mail: inata1@mail.wplus.net 100 Nab. Reki Fontanki. Close to M: Pushkinskaya. 3/5 floor. View of Fontanka River. Eurostandard renovation. Locked entrance from the embankment. Quality furniture. Kitchen/dining room: 9.5 + 21 sq. m. Modern design.

Equipped with home appliances. $450 per month. Tel.: 324-6939, 373-1382.

E-mail: arenspb@mail.ru, arenspb@mail.wplus.net St. Petersburg Agency One-room apartment at 25 Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. (M: Nevsky Pr.).

Room: 25 sq. m. Kitchen: 8 sq. m.

2/5 floor. Furniture. Code. $450 per month. Tel.: 108-1562. E-mail: pnarenda@mail.ru Petersburgskaya Nedvizhimost Agency

Call 325-1306 mysuite@jensen.ru www.jensen.ru One-room apartment on Nevsky Pr. Room: 22 sq. m. Kitchen: 10 sq. m.

Bathroom: 9 sq. m. 3/4 floor.

Western-standard renovation, phone, completely furnished, fully equipped.

Video control system, speakerphone. $600 per month, $75 per day. Tel.: 325-4020, Petersburgskaya Nedvizhimost Agency

TWO ROOMS 15 Liteiny Pr. 3/5 floor. Rooms: 27 + 20 sq. m. Hall: 20 sq. m. Kitchen: 15 sq. m. Eurorenovated, fully equipped, furniture upon request. $1,300 per month. Tel.: 279-9488 (work), 100-0176 (home), Valentina Kroshkina.

Two-room apar tment on Ul. Mayakovskogo.

Eurorenovated, heated floor. $1,500 per month or from $80 to $100 per day. Tel.: 930-1984.

18 Nevsky Pr. Security, satellite TV. Tel.: 325-8653.

Petrograd Side. Bolshaya Zelenina Ul. Total area: 70 sq. m. Original design project. Guarded courtyard. Code. $1,200 per month. Negotiable.

INATA agency. Tel.: 919-8333. Email: inata1@mail.wplus.net RENT-A-FLAT at the corner of Nevsky Pr., from $300 per week. Fully fitted, furnished two-room apartment with secure entrance. For more information, call COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL at 118-3618.

NEVSKY PROSTOR Ltd. Elite two-room apartment at 4 Milionnaya Ul. Close to Palace Square. Third floor.

Recently renovated, safe, quiet. Fully equipped, satellite TV. Cozy and comfortable. $90 per night. Negotiable.

Tel.: 948-6707, Marina, e-mail: apartments2002@mail.ru; Tel.: 992-1522, Irina, www.irina.spbestate.com; Tel.: 981-3512, Marina, e-mail: mstarling@mail.ru; Tel.: 3253838, NEVSKY PROSTOR AGENCY, www.spb-estate.com NEVSKY PROSTOR Ltd. SPLENDID LOCATION on MARSOVO POLYE! Comfortable two-room apartment at 1 NAB. REKI MOIKI. Windows overlooking MARSOVO POLYE. Living room: 20 sq. m. Bedroom: 16 sq. m. Elegant modern furniture.

Satellite TV. Fully equipped kitchen.

Code-locked entrance from MARSOVO POLYE. $1,200 per month, $100 per day. Tel: 992-1522, Irina,

Jensen Group

www.irina.spb-estate.com; Tel.: 981-3512, Marina, e-mail: mstarling@mail.ru, Tel.: 998-9289, Yekaterina, E-mail: telegina@mail.ru Two-room apartment on NAB. REKI MOIKI, corner of Nevsky Pr. Rooms: 34 + 32 sq. m. Kitchen: 40 sq. m.

2/5 floor. Bathroom: 25 sq. m.

(French jacuzzi, sauna). New Italian furniture. Satellite TV. View of St. Isaac’s Cathedral, near Astoria Hotel. Secure clean entrance. Any terms. $500 per month, $30 per day. Tel.: 596-4332, 312-0290.

Italyanskaya Ul. corner of Nab. Reki Fontanki. 3/6 floor. Rooms: 30 + 28 sq. m. Kitchen: 40 sq. m.

Western-standard renovation in 2002. Bathroom: 15 sq. m.

Jacuzzi, new furniture, satellite TV, fireplace, fully fitted with Bosch appliances, air conditioning. View of Fontanka River. 24-hour secure entrance, parking. $550 per month, $35 per day. Tel.: 3416018, 312-0290.

Nab. Reki Moiki. Beautiful view. Total area: 95 sq. m. Living room: 35 sq. m. Two bedrooms: 16 + 20 sq. m.

Balcony. Fully furnished, fully equipped kitchen. Big bathroom.

Clean, secure entrance. Beautiful marble staircase. Parking. Short- or long-term stay. Tel.: 543-8163, 949-4199, 318-1120.

PARK POBEDY. Secure, Western, newly furnished. $600 per month.

Tel.: 325-6277, PULFORD. www.pulford.com Nevsky Pr. Near Gostiny Dvor. Westernstandard renovation. New furniture and appliances. Bedroom: 20 sq. m.

Kitchen/living room: 30 + 10 sq. m.

Big bathroom with jacuzzi. Secure parking.

Windows overlooking Nevsky Pr. Satellite TV. Code-locked entrance. $700 per month, $50 per day. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. Email: megarent@realtor.spb.ru Nevsky Pr. Near M: Mayakovskaya.

Two-floor apartment. Living room: 45 sq. m. Bedroom: 25 sq. m. Kitchen: 15 sq. m. Eurorenovation. Beautiful furniture, all home appliances. Two bathrooms. Code. $1,000 per month. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. Email: megarent@realtor.spb.ru Nevsky Pr. $35 per night. Visa suppor t. Tel.: 910-8643. E-mail: valen@mail.wplus.net

Tel.: (812) 312−0913, 312−0957 www.pushkainn.ru pushka@pushkainn.ru NAB. REKI MOIKI. Best location, view of Moika River, quiet, comfortable, white walls, parquet, IKEA furniture. Safe entrance, clean staircase. Tel.: 320-1888, 937-7533, 967-2283, K-KESKUS Agency

THREE ROOMS NEVSKY PROSTOR Ltd. Elite threeroom apartment at 25 Nab. Reki Fontanki, just near Nevsky Pr. Third floor. Two bedrooms: 25 + 25 sq. m.

Living room/kitchen: 40 sq. m.

Elegant furniture, satellite TV. Fully equipped. Key-locked entrance, clean staircase. $150 per night. Tel.: 9486707, Marina, e-mail: apartments2002@mail.ru; Tel.: 998-9289, Yekaterina, e-mail: telegina@mail.ru; Tel.: 325-38-38, NEVSKY PROSTOR AGENCY, www.spb-estate.com; www.irina.spb-estate.com NAB. REKI MOIKI. 140 sq. m. Two bedrooms: 40 + 16 sq. m. Living room: 35 sq. m. Kitchen: 20 sq. m.

Furnished, equipped, sauna. Safe entrance from the courtyard, secure parking. Tel.: 320-1888, 937-7533, 967-2283, K-KESKUS Agency.

ITALYANSKAYA UL. Two-bedroom apartment, new, recently renovated, good quality, very bright, nice view. Bathroom equipped with jacuzzi and shower cabin. Bedroom equipped with air conditioning. Tel.: 320-1888, 937-7533, 967-2283, K-KESKUS Agency.

KONYUSHENNAYA. Loft, two bathrooms, fireplace, security. $2,000 per month. Tel.: 325-6277, PULFORD. www.pulford.com Ul. Marata. Total area: 90 sq. m.

Excellent renovation.

Fully equipped. Code. Near the garden.

Any terms. $800 per month. INATA agency. Tel.: 910-1066. E-mail: inata1@mail.wplus.net Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. Three-room apartment. Rooms: 25 + 25 + 35 sq. m.

Kitchen/dining room. Hall. 2/5 floor.

Two entrances. Security. Pink and white bedrooms. Modern renovation.

European style. Representative class apartment. Suitable for living and for business negotiations. $1,800 per month. Negotiable. Tel.: 327-6747. 24 hours. ARGO agency.

Elite building at 31 Nab. Reki Moiki.

3/5 floor. 110 sq. m. Windows overlooking the water.

Eurorenovated, jacuzzi, two bathrooms, fully equipped. $1,800 per month. Tel.: 279-9488 (work), 5110388 (home), Yelena Lavrenteva.

Nab. Reki Moiki. 3/3 floor. 150 sq. m.

Hall: 50 sq. m. Bedrooms: 30 + 25 sq. m. Kitchen: 20 sq. m. Marble fireplace. Two telephone lines.

Eurorenovated. Security system completed. Two bathrooms. jacuzzi, shower cabin. View of Kanal Griboyedova, Nab. Reki Moiki and the Church on the Spilled Blood. Tel.: 934-6657, Yelena, Becar Agency.

Nab. Reki Moiki. 3/5 floor. 120 sq. m. Modern design. Eurorenovated.

Two bathrooms, jacuzzi. Concierge.

Fully equipped. $1,400 per month.

Tel.: 324-3151, 934-6657.

NEVSKY PROSTOR Ltd. Elite threeroom apartment at 26 Karavannaya Ul., just near Nevsky Pr. Third floor.

Two bedrooms: 25 + 25 sq. m. Living room/kitchen: 40 sq. m. Elegant furniture, satellite TV. Fully equipped.

Key-locked entrance, clean staircase. $150 per night. Tel.: 998-9289, Yekaterina, e-mail: telegina@mail.ru; Tel.: 992-1522, Irina, www.irina.spbestate.com; Tel.: 981-3512, Marina, e-mail: mstarling@mail.ru Three-room apartment on MALAYA KONYUSHENNAYA UL. View of Kazan Cathedral. Total area: 160 sq. m.

Eurorenovated in 2001. New Spanish

in the center 320-1888 232-0723 967-2283

furniture. Bosch appliances. Satellite TV, air conditioning, fireplace, CCTV, near Grand Hotel Europe. Daily rent is possible. $700 per month, $40 per day. Tel.: 312-0290, 596-4332.

Admiralty/Nevsky Pr. Three-room luxury apartment. Sauna, Western-standard renovated, secure. $1,450 per month. WWW.TravelTH.biz Malaya Konyushennaya Ul. 3/5 floor.

130 sq. m. Exclusive design.

Eurorenovated in 2002. Jacuzzi, two bathrooms. Wonder ful view.

24-hour security. Tel.: 325-3151, 934-6657.

FOUR ROOMS NAB. REKI FONTANKI. Three-bedroom apartment. Newly renovated to high Western standards in neutral colors. View of the river, located on the third floor. The property boasts wooden floors, nice furniture in a contemporary style and comprises three bedrooms, two bathrooms, open-plan, eat-in, fully equipped kitchen, safe entrance with electronic lock and video system. For more information, call COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL at 118-3618. Email: colliers@colliers.spb.ru Four-room apartment at 119 Nevsky Pr. (M: Ploshchad Vosstaniya). 3/5 floor. Total area: 140 sq. m. Rooms: 20 + 28 + 25 + 24 sq. m. Kitchen: 15 sq. m. Furniture. Two WCs, jacuzzi. Entrance from the street.

Parking. Code. $2,000 per month.

Tel.: 108-1562, Svetlana. E-mail: pnarenda@mail.ru Petersburgskaya Nedvizhimost Agency Nab. Reki Fontanki. Perfect apartment.

Eurostandard renovation in 2002.

Great view of the river. Total area: 300 sq. m. Living room: 50 sq. m. with working fireplace. Three bedrooms: 32 + 24 + 21 sq. m. Kitchen/dining room: 40 sq. m. Fully equipped and furnished. Shower cabin with hydro massage. Big sauna, jacuzzi. Boiler.

Two telephone lines. Secure entrance and parking. $3,500 per month. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. E-mail: megarent@realtor.spb.ru Italyanskaya Ul. Total area: 150 sq. m.

Two bedrooms: 20 + 16 sq. m.

Living room: 28 sq. m. Study: 14 sq. m. Kitchen/dining room: 30 sq. m.

Original design project.

Eurostandard renovation. Two-side apartment. Fully equipped. Entrance from the street. $3,000 per month.

Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. Email: megarent@realtor.spb.ru Voznesensky Pr. Total area: 110 sq. m. Two bedrooms: 22 + 20 sq. m.

Living room: 27 sq. m. Study: 14 sq. m. Kitchen: 12 sq. m. Eurostandard renovation in 2002 year. All furniture and home appliances. Secure.

Foreign neighbors. Exciting view of St. Isaac’s Square. $2,300 per month. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. Email: megarent@realtor.spb.ru Gorokhovaya Ul. Located in the historical center of the city. Two bedrooms: 22 + 14 sq. m. Dining/living room: 14 + 22 sq. m. Kitchen: 20 sq. m. Two bathrooms. Jacuzzi. Western-standard renovation. Luxurious furniture. Fully equipped. Two secure code-locked entrances. Safe parking. $1,500 per month. Tel.: 542-8511, 542-8527, MEGAPOLIS Real Estate Agency. Email:megarent@realtor.spb.ru Malaya Konyushennaya Ul. View of Kazan Cathedral. Total area: 120 sq. m. Living room: 30 sq. m.

Bedrooms: 20+25 sq. m. Study: 18 sq. m. Kitchen/dining room. Balcony.

For more Real Estate, see Classifieds page

World WORLD WATCH

Big Day Defense ■ WASHINGTON (AP) — Americans ventured into searing heat Thursday to watch the first Fourth of July celebrations since Sept. 11, hoping to forget the terror that rattled American well-being.

Others watched the watchers, hoping to make sure it wouldn’t happen again.

Jet fighters were assigned to patrol the skies over major cities, including New York and Washington. An FBI official in Washington said a group with terrorist ties had gained access to a Website that features pictures of stadiums worldwide, and that it had downloaded images of two unspecified U.S. stadiums.

Nationwide, plainclothes FBI agents walked Fourth of July parade routes in response to vague U.S. intelligence reports of possible terrorist attacks, as the State Department reported heightened communications traffic between terrorist operatives overseas.

The military temporarily reactivated the post-Sept. 11 combat air patrols that flew routinely over Washington, New York, and other major U.S. cities and possible targets after the attacks, but had been scaled back in April.

Arafat Fires Officers ■ JERUSALEM (WP) — Palestinian President Yasser Arafat, under pressure from his own people and international leaders to reform Palestinian security agencies, has decided to dismiss three of his top law enforcement officials, Palestinian officials said on Thursday.

The dismissals include that of Jibril Rajoub, head of the powerful Preventive Security force in the West Bank, the officials said. Rajoub had been touted by some as a leader in the next generation of Palestinian leaders, making the decision to remove him a potentially important shift.

The Palestinian Authority also has announced plans for broad reforms of its financial system.

Typhoon To Hit China ■ BEIJING (Reuters) — Typhoon Rammasun, or “God of Thunder’’ in Thai, churned toward China’s coast on Thursday, packing strong winds and heavy rain that were expected to drench Shanghai, officials and state media said.

Emergency workers in the Zhejiang provincial city of Ningbo evacuated coastal residents to higher ground on Thursday morning, a local flood official said, but declined to give figures.

More than 600 people have died in China’s worst floods since 1998, officials have said. Many fear that the present typhoon season, which is set to last for several more months, could bring more misery and deaths to large areas of the country.

U.S. Army Drug Bust ■ CAMP LEJEUNE, North Carolina (AP) — One of the largest military drug investigations in recent years has led to the conviction of more than 80 enlisted marines and sailors at Camp Lejeune for using and selling Ecstasy, cocaine, LSD and methamphetamine.

The service personnel, along with 99 civilians, were arrested in a twoyear undercover investigation that also resulted in the seizure of more than $1.4 million in drugs.

All of the convicted marines and sailors received dishonorable discharges and confinement ranging from three to 19 years, said Robin Knapp of the Naval Criminal Investigative Service.

Drug charges were filed against 84 active-duty service members, none of them officers. Sixty-one of them were accused of distributing drugs and 23 were accused of using drugs. All but two were convicted in military court, Knapp said.

The St. Petersburg Times

❖

9

FRIDAY, JULY 5, 2002

N. Korea Wants Dialogue With South UN, U.S.

Keeping The Peace

THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

SEOUL, South Korea — North Korea said on Thursday that it will seek dialogue with South Korea, vowing to honor past agreements for reconciliation after a deadly naval skirmish between the two sides over the weekend.

“We will make all efforts to smoothly promote dialogue and cooperation,” the North Korea’s Committee for Peaceful Reunification of the Fatherland said in a statement. The committee is a government agency in charge of North Korean relations with South Korea.

It said that the North will stand by a July 4, 1972 joint communique, in which the two Koreas agreed to work toward peaceful reunification of their peninsula.

The two Koreas recently signed a similar agreement on June 15, 2000 after their leaders held a historic summit.

Thursday’s statement was carried by North Korea’s official Korean Central News Agency on the 30th anniversary of the July 4 agreement.

In the past, the North has issued several calls for dialogue, but has seldom followed up with concrete steps. South Korea did not immediately respond to the statement.

The statement did not mention the naval clash on Saturday, in which one South Korean patrol boat sank, killing four South Korean sailors and wounding 19 others. About 30 North Korean

By Serge Schmemann NEW YORK TIMES SERVICE

KIM KYUNG-HOON/REUTERS

South Korean war veterans shouting anti-North slogans at Thursday’s rally in Seoul. sailors were believed to have died, but ing for retaliation against the North folthe government has not released an lowing the naval clash.

The North Korean announcement official figure.

On Thursday, about 3,000 South Ko- comes after the United States’ withrean veterans burned North Korean drawal, on Tuesday, of an earlier proleader Kim Jong Il’s effigy and marched posal to resume security talks with in downtown Seoul. Veterans, including North Korea next week, saying that the retired generals, gathered near the De- clash had created “an unacceptable atfense Ministry, waving banners and call- mosphere'' for dialogue.

Brazil and Mexico Sign Bilateral Trade Deal

By Tony Smith NEW YORK TIMES SERVICE

SAO PAULO, Brazil — With prospects for global trade liberalization looking bleak at the moment, the presidents of Brazil and Mexico, Latin America’s two biggest economies, signed a bilateral trade deal on Thursday instead, opening their markets to each other in 800 industrial and agricultural product categories.

Meeting in Brasilia, the two presidents — Fernando Henrique Cardoso of Brazil and Vicente Fox of Mexico — signed the pact at the start of a tour by President Fox that analysts see as a reorientation of Mexico’s interest and attention toward its Latin American neighbors and, in some measure, away from its NAFTA partners, the United States and Canada.

Brazil and Mexico trade little with each other now — just $2.6 billion worth of goods and services last year —

and both could use a boost from the expansion of bilateral commerce that the new agreement is meant to produce.

Brazil is facing its most serious market crisis in three years and urgently needs to bring in more foreign earnings to help it service $250 billion in public debt and allay market fears that it may have to reschedule loans or default on them.

An additional pact to liberalize trade in the automotive sector between Mexico and the four Mercosur countries — Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay — is expected on Friday, when Fox will be in Buenos Aires and when leaders of the Mercosur countries are scheduled to gather there, Brazilian trade officials said.

Thursday’s agreement came against a backdrop of mounting frustration in Latin America over recent United States trade policy, widely criticized

here as turning increasingly toward protectionism. Hopes are fading in the region that a new round of global trade talks that began last year in Doha, Qatar, will succeed in improving developing countries’ access to the markets of the rich industrialized nations anytime soon.

“I have little to add about the sense of disappointment we feel when rich countries insist on maintaining all sorts of barriers to free trade,” Cardoso said at a ceremonial lunch in Fox’s honor on Thursday. Cardoso stressed that Brazil and Mexico together formed a market of nearly 300 million consumers, and that closer commercial ties between them could lift the fortunes of Latin America as a whole.

Brazil desperately needs to step up its exports as a source of foreign exchange, because foreign investment flows into the country have been erratic.

UNITED NATIONS — Faced with an unusually direct appeal from Secretary General Kofi Annan, the United States agreed on Thursday to another extension of the Bosnia peacekeeping mission — until July 15 — without a provision placing American peacekeepers beyond the reach of the new International Criminal Court.

In a letter to U.S. Secretary of State Colin Powell, Annan argued that the sort of politically motivated prosecution the United States feared was “highly improbable,” that the U.S. was putting the entire UN peacekeeping system “at risk” and that the proposed American provision “flies in the face of treaty law.”

John Negroponte, the U.S. representative to the United Nations, declined to comment on Annan’s letter, which he said would be addressed “at the appropriate moment.” The extension, adopted unanimously by the 15-member Security Council after a day of tense diplomatic maneuvering, came hours before the mandate of a UN police-training mission in Bosnia was due to expire.

There was a collective sigh of relief at the United Nations, though the extension will only lengthen a debate that still threatens to close down the Bosnia mission and all other peacekeeping missions as they come up for renewal.

But most diplomats perceived Thursday’s vote as a retreat by the United States. Until then, U.S. representatives had insisted that they would not agree to another extension unless demands were met for a council resolution effectively declaring that UN peacekeeping forces were immune from the court. Last Sunday, the United States initially vetoed the Bosnia extension, but then allowed it until midnight Thursday.

Despite intense lobbying at the UN, in Washington and in capitals around the world, and despite repeated threats that it was prepared to discontinue the Bosnia mission, the administration of U.S. President George W. Bush found itself unable to garner significant support for its position in or outside the Security Council.

Villagers Recount Tragic Celebrations

By Pamela Constable WASHINGTON POST

KANDAHAR, Afghanistan — It was just after 2 a.m. Monday, and the village wedding party was in full swing.

At one house, women were dancing and beating drums. At another, in keeping with rural Afghan tradition, men were firing rifles.

“Everyone was making so much noise that we never heard the sound of the planes. Then the bombs came and we started running,” said Shahbibi, 30, a seamstress whose leg was broken in the stampede of fleeing women. “There was so much dust we couldn’t see.”

When the air finally cleared over Miandao village and three nearby hamlets in Uruzgan province, all bombed or strafed that morning by U.S. warplanes whose crews believed that they were under attack, at least 40 people had been killed and another 100 injured, according to Afghan officials.

This casualty count would make Monday’s incident one of the deadliest single episodes of civilian casualties in an American attack since U.S.-led troops and warplanes began operations last year to hunt down and destroy remaining pockets of Taliban and al-Qaeda fighters.

Monday’s was the second such incident in Uruzgan, where U.S. Special Forces killed 21 villagers in a January raid.

The attack has drawn sharp criticism from Afghan officials, who refrained from protesting after several earlier incidents of unintentional civilian killings because of their dependence on Western military forces to maintain security in Kabul and other vulnerable areas. Foreign Minister Abdullah stated on Tuesday that “this situation has to come to an end,” adding that “our people should be assured that every measure has been taken to avoid such incidents.”

A delegation of Afghan and U.S. officials reached one of the villages on Thursday. Officials in Kabul, the capital, said the group plans to remain in the area until Friday, trying to learn how and why the attack occurred and whether there had been any hostile fire beforehand.

U.S. military officials have expressed condolences and acknowledged some errors in Monday’s raids over Uruzgan by B-52 bombers and AC-130 gunships, but they have insisted that U.S. forces in the area were responding to a deliberate attack by antiaircraft guns or other weapons.

TREVOR COLLENS/REUTERS

Hydrogen Junkie

Steve Fossett, now the first balloonist to circle the world solo, standing on top of his capsule after landing Thursday near Durham Downs, Australia.

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Friday, July 5, 2002

TENNIS

Continued from Page 12 grip on tactics and inability to still his nerves left him dizzy on the ropes and short of ideas.

But the collective roar of Centre Court and the will of a country urged Henman on in his pursuit of glory and, slowly, the 27-year-old responded.

While Henman was toiling on Centre Court, Hewitt was tearing up Court One, destroying the Dutchman for the first two sets.

But Schalken resisted gamely in the third set, fending off U.S. Open champion Hewitt’s assault on his serve and saving four match points in the 12th game, before winning the tiebreak 7–5.

It was the first set Australian Hewitt had lost in the tournament.

Schalken ran through the fourth set breaking Hewitt twice but it was Hewitt’s iron will that prevailed in the decider. He survived two break points in the eighth and 10th games before earning match point with a whipping forehand down the line on Schalken’s serve and won when the Dutchman slid a forehand wide.

Argentine David Nalbandian became only the second South American

semi-finalist in Wimbledon history when he held off a comeback from Ecuador’s Nicolas Lapentti for a dramatic 6–4, 6–4, 4–6, 4–6, 6–4 victory on Thursday.

Nalbandian grabbed early breaks in the first two sets of the first Wimbledon quarter-final played between South Americans.

But Lapentti, who had played five sets in three of his earlier matches, dipped into his reserves of spirit once more to force a decider on Court Two. Again Nalbandian broke early to take a 4–1 lead and, despite a last stand from Lapentti, kept his nerve to set up a final-four meeting with Xavier Malisse, who ended the Wimbledon fairytale of Richard Krajicek as he clawed his way to the semi-finals with a stunning 6-1, 4-6, 6-2, 3-6, 9-7 victory.

Krajicek, the 1996 Wimbledon champion, has only just returned to action following 15 months off the circuit following elbow surgery, and his luck finally ran out against the 27th seed.

Krajicek’s dominating serve let him down at the worst possible time, as he served a double fault to gift Malisse a break in the 15th game of the deciding set. Malisse held his nerve to win on his first match point.

P

O

R

T

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The St. Petersburg Times

❖

11

REUTERS

Armstrong undergoing medical tests as part of the preparation for this year’s Tour de France, which starts on Saturday.

China Planning Bid for Armstrong Chases Fourth Tour Harbin Winter Games

By Francois Thomazeau REUTERS

By Jonathan Ansfield REUTERS

BEIJING — China unveiled plans on Thursday to bring the 2010 Winter Olympics to the sub-Siberian industrial hub of Harbin.

Officials, still basking in the glow of Beijing winning the vote to host the 2008

OLYMPICS Summer Games, said plans included an upgrade to the country’s top skiing facility at nearby Yabuli, which would cost around two billion yuan ($240 million).

They said the recent proliferation of ski slopes across the north, together with Harbin’s existing winter sports facilities made the city a bona fide challenger to expected frontrunners like Vancouver.

The six other candidates competing for the bid, which the International Olympic Committee (IOC) will vote on next July, are Salzburg (Austria), Berne (Switzerland), Andorra, Sarajevo, Jaca (Spain) and Pyeonchang (South Korea).

The IOC’s executive board will agree on a shortlist of candidates in late August.

BASEBALL

Continued from Page 12 the Yankees (1987) and Dale Long of Pittsburgh (1956).

Boston 5, Toronto 2. Tony Clark’s tiebreaking single off Cliff Politte (1–2) keyed a three-run eighth inning as host Boston took advantage of four Toronto errors. The Red Sox, who beat Toronto for the ninth straight time, were looking to complete a five-game sweep of the Blue Jays on Thursday.

Wayne Gomes (1–0), making his first appearance since being recalled from Triple-A Pawtucket on Tuesday, got the win, and Ugueth Urbina earned his 22nd save.

Arizona 5, Los Angeles 3. Quinton McCracken lined a two-run triple into the right-field corner in the eighth inning, and the Diamondbacks rallied for a win Wednesday night.

Mark Grace followed with a sacrifice fly as Eric Gagne blew his second save in 32 opportunities this season. The Diamondbacks had scored just two runs on sacrifice flies in the first 25 innings against the Dodgers before McCracken’s hit.

Atlanta 6, Montreal 5. Javy Lopez hit an infield single off third baseman Fernando Tatis’ glove to score Vinny

Officials admitted the Heilongjiang provincial capital — a fishing village a century ago before Russian traders, Jewish emigres and Japanese expansionists settled in waves — would need to play catch-up.

“Some cities have better snow competition facilities than ours,” said provincial governor Wang Zuoshu, the executive chairperson of the bid committee.

Temperatures in Harbin in January can drop as low as minus 25 degrees Celsius and the biggest tourist attraction is the annual Ice Lantern Festival.

It’s mountains are also relatively low, although they meet the 884-meter minimum height standard for Olympic ski competition, said Wang.

“If the IOC does not approve our bid for now, we will not give up on our chances in 2014 and 2018,” said Wang, who cited an independent survey in March that showed 96.3 percent of the public supported the bid.

“The weather in Harbin may be very cold,” he said. “But the people are very warm.”

LUXEMBOURG — A distinct Independence Day flavour hung over the Tour de France on Thursday, as Lance Armstrong geared up to try for a fourth victory that would make him the most successful U.S. cyclist in the history of the race.

Even France’s Richard Virenque, his country’s most famous rider, paid unex-

CYCLING pected homage to U.S. cycling by forecasting an all-American podium in Paris.

Former Armstrong teammates Tyler Hamilton and Levy Lepheimer, now with rival outfits, have shown excellent recent form and could threaten the flagbearer of American cycling.

“Maybe Virenque said that because it’s July 4, but it’s definitely a compliment,” Armstrong said.

“You only have to look at recent results. Levy won the Route du Sud and Tyler finished second in the Giro [d’Italia]. The results speak for themselves,” he added. “It would be pretty special.”

Hamilton joined the Danish CSCTiscali team this season and, with the help of France’s Laurent Jalabert and advice from 1996 Tour winner Bjarne Riis, the CSC team director, has real ambitions.

“We know each other well and he can follow me very far,” Armstrong said. “I heard he’s in good shape. He knows me well and he knows my style of riding.”

Hamilton, who has not ridden since the Giro, is not too sure about his current form.

“I hope I can stay with Lance. But it’ll be hard,” he said.

Regarding the prospect of an American podium, he said: “It is a possibility and it says a lot about the strength of American cycling.”

Other American hopes include Bobby Julich, third in 1998, Jonathan Vaughters and Kevin Livingston.

Armstrong said that July 4 was even more special than usual following the Sept. 11 attacks.

“It’s a different feeling this year because of everything that’s happened,” he said.

“Sometimes it takes events like this to wake you up a little. We feel even

Zenit Is Back With a Win

Castilla in the ninth inning and give Atlanta a victory over visiting Montreal.= Julio Franco tied the game in the eighth with a two-out double for the Braves, who stretched their lead over second-place Montreal to 9 1/2 games in the NL East.

THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

The break for the World Cup does not seem to have disrupted Zenit’s push for its first Russian Premier Division title.

Goals in either half from Yevgeny Tarasov and Alexander Kerzhakov saw

Colorado 14, San Francisco 4. In Denver, Larry Walker and Bobby Estallela homered and drove in four runs each as Colorado routed San Francisco.

Walker was 4-for-5, including a three-run homer off Livan Hernandez (6–10) in Colorado’s seven-run second inning, to tie his career high for hits for the second time in four games.

Minnesota 2, Oakland 1. Johan Santana (4–1) allowed one run in 6 1/3 innings and visiting Minnesota snapped Mark Mulder’s seven-start winning streak. Mulder (9–5) allowed two runs on six hits in his eighth career complete game. He struck out a career-high 12.

Eddie Guardado, who gave up pinch-hitter Olmedo Saenz’s game-ending homer inthe Twins’ 4–3 loss Tuesday, pitched the ninth for his 26th save.

In other games, it was: Seattle 3, Kansas City 0; Anaheim 1, Baltimore 0; Texas 6, Tampa Bay 5; Detroit 5, Chicago 4; Philadelphia 8, New York Mets 7; Houston 11, Cincinnati 4; St. Louis 4, San Diego 1; Chicago Cubs 6, Florida 2; and Pittsburgh 3, Milwaukee 1.

more American this year,” he added.

The three-time Tour champion said he had met Tour director Jean-Marie Leblanc to discuss the issue of safety.

“I have not enquired about my security but about the security of the race, about everybody’s security,” he said.

“It’s not the matter of my security. I asked if all the right measures had been taken in conjunction with the French police and French authorities so that we feel safe. The answer was yes,” he added.

But Armstrong insisted the Tour should keep its character as a free show, open to crowds on the road sides.

“It’s still the Tour de France, it’s a public event, a popular event,” he said.

If he won his fourth Tour on July 24, Armstrong would go one better than compatriot Greg LeMond, crowned in 1986, 1989 and 1990.

Despite a relative lack of opposition this season, the American could face another obstacle this year — the itinerary, which features most of the climbs in the last week.

“Every year they try to make the course tougher for the past winner to keep the interest of the race,” he said.

“It’s their right to keep the race exciting.”

SOCCER

REUTERS

Thome rounding the bases Wednesday after homering in his seventh straight game.

off a stubborn Alaniya Vladikavkaz, 2-1 at the Petrovsky Stadium on Tuesday.

Zenit seemed to be cruising at 1-0 when Alaniya’s central defender Igor Tarlovsky was sent off just before halftime. However, Alaniya scored seconds into the second half. Mihkail Ashvetiya won a corner from a quick break. From the kick, Ashvetiya snuck in between two defenders to beat Zenit goalie Vyacheslav Malafeyev at his near post.

Zenit had gone ahead on 35 minutes, when Tarasov, making his first full start of the season, got enough onto a teasing cross by Boris Gorovoi from just outside the box to divert the ball in at the far low corner.

Alaniya was the better side for most of the second half, but Zenit grabbed the win when Kerzhakov lashed home off the underside of the bar from six meters after the Alaniya defense failed to clear.

Sports

PAG E 1 2

FRID AY, JULY 5 , 2 0 0 2

Williams Show Sets Up Sister Act Part III Thome

Homers In 7th Straight

REUTERS

LONDON — Venus and Serena Williams gave their compatriots plenty to shout about on U.S. Independence Day, setting up their third meeting in a Grand Slam final in the past 12 months.

Venus had a rousing 6–3, 6–2 win over Justine Henin, as she aims for a hat-

THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

NEW YORK — Jim Thome keeps hitting home runs, without much to celebrate. He homered in his seventhstraight game, one shy of the majorleague record, but the New York Yankees beat Cleveland, 11–8, Wednesday night. The Indians have lost four in a row and 11 of 15.

“It’s nice, but it’s not fun when you don’t win,” Thome said. “I haven’t re-

TENNIS trick of Wimbledon titles. Serena demolished France’s Amelie Mauresmo 6-2, 61 in just over 30 minutes, leap-frogging Venus to go to the top of the world rankings in the process.

Saturday’s title match will be the first between siblings here since Maud Watson beat Lilian in 1884.

Second seed Serena was at her brutal best in the first set, thumping down winners all over the court with razorsharp precision. Bidding to reach her first final at the All England Club, Serena had Mauresmo backed into a corner as she broke the ninth seed in the fifth and seventh games by slamming storming groundstroke winners.

Having not even gotten within a sniff of earning a break point in the opening set, some sloppy serving by Serena handed Mauresmo four opportunities in the second game.

But she failed to take advantage and, instead, allowed Serena to grab a 2-0 lead by netting a straightforward backhand.

The Serena juggernaut continued and again came out on top in a titanic fifth game. With Mauresmo desperately hanging on for dear life, she managed to save at least six break points before

BASEBALL

AP

Serena Williams hitting a two-handed return to Mauresmo on Thursday. Serena won to set up a final clash with Venus.

But the world No. 1 broke back Hewitt clawed his way out of the deepest eventually succumbing to Serena’s onsoon afterwards, got another in the of holes while Tim Henman roused himslaught with a netted forehand.

Serena confirmed her status as the eighth game and, with her game now at self from a torpor to set up an explosive new world No. 1, when Mauresmo once its intimidating best, served out to win semi-final at the grasscourt grand slam.

Henman struggled past 90th-ranked more cracked under pressure and net- the first set.

Henin, who lost to Williams in the fi- Andre Sa 6–3, 5–7, 6–4, 6–3, while Hewitt ted an easy backhand on match point.

Venus Williams has taken a while to nal here last year, battled gamely on but finally buried Sjeng Schalken 6–2, 6–2, hit top gear in all her matches at the All the big American just pounded her into 6–7 (7-5), 1–6, 7–5 in their epic encounter.

Re-starting his rain-interrupted England Club this year, and sixth seeded submission and won the second set in quarterfinal a set up, Henman’s poor Henin took full advantage to grab a just over half an hour.

In the men’s quarterfinals, Lleyton break in the first game of the match.

See TENNIS, Page 11

ally given it much thought because of the way we’ve been playing.”

Alfonso Soriano hit a two-run homer and drove in three runs for the Yankees, who improved to 11–0 against AL Central teams.

Thome hit a 3–2 pitch from David Wells (9–5) to left-center with two outs in the seventh inning. The solo shot gave Thome an AL-leading 26 homers.

“He’s pretty hot right now,” teammate Ellis Burks said. “I just wish we could support him as well as he’s been supporting us, because he’s definitely been carrying us.”

The major-league record for consecutive games with a home run is eight, shared by Ken Griffey Jr. when he was with Seattle (1993), Don Mattingly of See BASEBALL, Page 11

Рег. ПИ № 2-4536, выдан Северо-Западным региональным управлением Роскомпечати 01.07.2000. Отпечатано в ФГУП «СПб Государственный газетный комплекс». 198216, СПб, Ленинский пр., 139. Заказ № 163. Тираж 20000 экз.

film

Ò K o p e ika,Ó the new film from director Ivan Dykhovichny, was a hit at the recent Festival of Festivals. He talks to The St. Petersburg Times about working with, among others, Vladimir Surokin and Sergei Shnurov.

Page

ii.

travel

Gatchina is one of the lesser known of St. PetersburgÕs outlying villages, in comparison with places slightly nearer, such as Pushkin and Pavlovsk.

Nonetheless, it still makes for a great day trip to get out of the city. Page

ix.

festival

This yearÕs running of the Mariinsky TheaterÕs ÒStars of the White NightsÓ festival wrapped up last week, and proved to be a resounding success, with the theaterÕs old productions all back to their best. Page

xii.

Dates and times are correct at the time of publication, but lastminute changes are not infrequent, so itÕs best to check using the phone numbers at the end of each entry or on the center spread. Unless otherwise stated, stage events start at 7 p.m.

Last admission to most museums is one hour before closing.

stages friday, july 5 ballet

SERGEY GRACHEV/SPT

Giselle The classic Romantic ballet, with music by Adolphe Adam and choreography

by Jules Perrot and Jean Coralli. Mariinsky Theater

concert

RUSSIAN MUSIC COLLECTION: Children’s Room Viktoriya Yevtodyeva (soprano). Tatyana Kuindzhi (soprano).

Alexander Goribol (piano). Song cycles and piano music by Tchaikovsky and Mussorgsky.

Marble Palace, White Hall. 5/1 Millionaya Ul. M: Nevsky Prospect/Gostiny Dvor. Tel.: 110-6688.

312-5544.

Musical Dynasty Oleg Krysa (violin). Pyotr Krysa (viola). Taras Krysa conducts a concert of Mozart’s Symphonia Concertante and Brahms’ Violin Concerto, to celebrate the 60th birthday of the violinist Oleg Krysa.

Shostakovich Philharmonic YARDS OF THE CAPELLA: Clarinet Quartet A program entitled “From Classics to Jazz.”

Capella, 5 p.m.

opera

Die Fledermaus Stanislav Gaudasinsky directs Strauss’ operetta about a neglected wife’s clever plan to regain the attention of her philandering husband. Mussorgsky Theater

theater

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): King, Queen, Knave Gennady Mushpert directs an adaptation of Vladimir Nabokov’s 1928 novel about a love triangle.

Akimov Comedy Theater Cyrano de Bergerac Vladimir Tykke directs Edmond Rostand’s tale of the incorrigible duelist with a large nose who writes love

Sand sculptor Krista Bakke, from The Netherlands, working on her entry in this yearÕs International Festival of Sand Sculpture, on the beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress. The winner of the competition will be announced Friday, when the sculptures go on public display. See story, p. ii. letters to his lady, conveying them via his rival.

Baltiisky Dom The Winter’s Tale British Director Declan Donnellan directs Shakespeare’s tragicomedy, which examines the power of jealousy. A 1999 Golden Mask Winner. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe The Splinter Dmitry Yakubov directs Francoise Sagan’s lyrical comedy. Priyut Komedianta Theater

saturday, july 6 ballet

Giselle St. Petersburg’s most popular and oftperformed ballet, Adolphe Adam’s tale of a young peasant woman deceived in love by a member of the aristocracy. Mussorgsky Theater Giselle Adolphe Adam’s tragic ballet, staged

by Nikolai Dolgushin, about the tragic consequences of one young peasant woman’s love for a member of the aristocracy. RimskyKorsakov Conservatory Theater, 8 p.m.

concert

RUSSIAN MUSIC COLLECTION: The Russian Mozart The Russian Ancient-Music Ensemble and the Lege Artis Chamber Choir

perform religious and secular works by Mozart and his Russian contemporary Dmitry Bortnyansky, who is often referred to as “the Russian Mozart.” Marble Palace, White Hall. 5/1 Millionaya Ul. M: Nevsky Prospect/Gostiny Dvor. Tel.: 110-6688. 312-5544.

St. Petersburg Philharmonic Chamber Orchestra Alexander Zolotaryov (violin).

Nikolai Alexeyev conducts a program of works

by Bach, Shostakovich and Tchaikovsky.

Shostakovich Philharmonic YARDS OF THE CAPELLA: State Russian Concert Orchestra of St. Petersburg The orchestra plays a program of works to be announced. Capella, 5 p.m.

opera

Aida Verdi’s tragic tale of an Ethiopian slave girl’s love in ancient Egypt. Mariinsky Theater

theater

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): King, Queen, Knave Gennady Mushpert directs an adaptation of Vladimir Nabokov’s 1928 novel about a love triangle.

Akimov Comedy Theater Claustrophobia Lev Dodin directs this drama about the aftermath of the failed 1991 coup in Russia. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe

Passions a la Vertinsky Rudolf Furmanov directs Valery Degtyar and Tatyana Kabanova in a highlight of Alexander Vertinsky’s work combining theatrical methods with circus tricks. Mironov Theater These Free Butterflies Valery Filonov directs Leonid Gersh’s play about the love between a young actor and a blind man. Priyut Komedianta Theater

sunday, july 7 ballet

Swan Lake The St. Petersburg Theater of Classical Ballet performs Tchaikovsky’s evergreen classic. Alexandriinsky Theater, 7:30 p.m.

Giselle Adolphe Adam’s tragic ballet, staged

by Nikolai Dolgushin, about the tragic consequences of one young peasant woman’s love for a member of the aristocracy. Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory Theater, 8 p.m.

concert

Evening of Piano Music Vladimir Shakin plays a program of works by Bach, Beethoven, Brahms and Sibelius. Shostakovich Philharmonic

opera

Lohengrin Konstantin Pluzhnikov stages Wagner’s romantic opera based on the anonymous German epic. Mariinsky Theater, 6 p.m.

Carmen Georges Bizet’s opera about the tempestuous relationship between a young gypsy woman and a soldier. Directed by Stanislav Gaudasinsky. Mussorgsky Theater

theater

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): Athens Evenings Gennady Mushpert directs Pavel Gladinin’s play about love and people’s attraction to each other.

Akimov Comedy Theater Biloxi Blues The story of a young man training for WWII at a boot camp in Mississippi, and learning on the way about real life, enduring relentless abuse from a drill sergeant and losing his virginity to a prostitute. Alexander Isakov directs.

Baltiisky Dom The Seagull Chekhov’s classic, staged by Alexander Tovstoganov. Mironov Theater

continued on page

v

ii

friday, july 5, 2002

the st. petersburg times

dykhovichnyÕs kopeckÕs worth q:

he latest film from director Ivan Dykhovichny, “Kopeika,” was a hit Saturday on the closing day of St. Petersburg’s biggest film event, the Festival of Festivals.

The film describes 30 years of Russian history through the history of a car, the VAZ-2101. The popular car, which was launched in 1970 and modeled on the Fiat 124, is nicknamed the “kopeika,” or “one-kopeck coin.” Dykhovichny spoke to staff writer Sergey Chernov.

Did you chose Tsurilo because of his leading part in Alexei German’s “Khrustalyov, Mashinu!” (“Khrustalyov, My Car!”)?

Of course, because I liked him a lot in the film. Then we met and I thought he was a man who was very close to our story. Then German gave him his blessing — he is a jealous person, he doesn’t like when his actors act in somebody else’s films. And it was very pleasant for me that [German] said, “It’s OK to work for [Dykhovichny], [he] is a good man.”

T film

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Did you own such a car?

Yes, I had one. Actually, one of the first produced by the factory.

Some time ago, it was said that you were filming a documentary about LogoVAZ. What happened to it?

I was filming a documentary for [LogoVAZ’s] anniversary when I worked for RTR Television, but its bosses got themselves in a mess. They were persecuted, and the channel rejected the film for political reasons. [“Kopeika”] is not really about a car, but [the documentary] was a real story.

Also, I wanted to establish contact with the factory. I thought that they would help us with this picture, but they didn’t help us with anything.

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Why did you choose Sorokin to write the script?

[Sorokin and I] have been writing other scripts for several years that unfortunately weren’t realized, but I hope they will be. Then we found this story and it has actually happened. I’ve been working with him for a long time.

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What do you like about Sorokin’s writing?

First, I am interested in Sorokin himself and, as a result, I’m interested in what he writes. I think he is one of [today’s] best stylists, one of the best postmodernists — probably the only one in this country. There are other talented people, but I think that, with one exception, I do not know another person working at such a high literary level — not just a conceptual level. That is why it is a real pleasure for me that we found each other — by pure chance, as it seems. I think that’s why something resulted from it.

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What do you think about the recent allegations of pornography that the pro-[President Vladimir] Putin youth movement Idushchiye Vmeste [Marching Together] made against Sorokin?

Are they dangerous?

I am not inclined to attach importance to them but, since I have been living here for so long — I have simply been alive too long — I know that, sometimes, a trifling, stupid thing can turn into something horrible. Or not, as the case may be. If it doesn’t, they will, as usual, say, “Why were you shouting about it so

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FOR SPT

q: a:

Dykhovichny, Sorokin and the filmÕs general producer Vitaly Yuzhilin (l-r) playing cameo roles in the film.

much?” Nevertheless, the only defense is to keep it all out in the open.

I definitely do not want to drink vodka or go to a party with Marching Together. Nobody wants to march together with them anywhere.

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Could something similar threaten you because of your film?

It is a pity that this campaign started a little while ago. It would have helped to promote the film, because there is no better publicity in this country. I think that [before the allegations were made] Sorokin’s readership was about the tenth of the size it is now.

No literature can be of any harm. In a country where every second Web site is a fascist one, where nationalist gibberish is written practically on the Kremlin’s wall, then making this fuss over Sorokin, a worthy man and writer, is outrageous.

There’s nothing left to explain.

In a country where people are dying in war and of hunger, where there are several million homeless children, why is Marching Together not ashamed to be so keen on this instead of doing something for people? They are going to erect a urinal as a monument to Sorokin and contemporary literature. They asked [Moscow Mayor Yury Luzhkov] about it.

I said, “You’d better ask the Mayor to install more public toilets in the city.”

q:

[“Kopeika”] treats Russian icons of the 1960s and 1970s, like Vladimir Vysotsky, Alexander Galich and Bulat Okudzhava, with a degree of sarcasm.

I don’t like people being made into icons. People are alive, icons are icons, and the two should not be mixed up. I like Vysotsky as he used to be, in all his complexity, although I am not making an angel out of him. I think that [Futurist poet Vladimir] Mayakovsky, whom I admire a lot, was a difficult person, not to mention [19th-century poet Mikhail] Lermontov who, as they say, was simply an impossible man. My love for him is not love for an idealised, sterile imbecile.

I have different feelings for people.

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q: a:

Have you received negative reactions because of that?

Of course. In Russia, people mainly express themselves negatively. If something is good, they think, “I liked it, so why talk about it?” The people who don’t complain, and who don’t make allegations [are the ones who] don’t appear on radio or television. But there are keepers of purity, who think they know Vysotsky. I knew Vysotsky [personally], but they “protect” him from me.

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There are a lot of non-professional actors in your film. Do you think professionals lack something?

They often lack cogency as people, they put on an act, mince, want to show themselves too much, whereas non-actors want to show themselves less, and don’t want to act: [In other words], they are natural people. The other thing is that they sometimes find imitating difficult, and other kinds of problems appear, but it is more valuable for me.

The cinema is, in one sense, a magnifying glass, and it shows falsehood very clearly. But I have amazing professional actors as well — [Yury] Tsurilo, [Andrei] Krasko or [Roman] Modyanov all act amazingly. They are natural people: They have, as they say, charisma, and they fit well. There is not a seam to be found.

q:

Sergei Mazayev, the frontman of Moscow band Moralny Kodeks, put on a great performance in the film.

Where did you get the idea to use him?

First of all, I like [Mazayev] a lot and know him. I thought he was a natural person, very worthy and one who has a life of his own. Also he has one Russian feature: a certain desperation, yet, at the

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same time, absolute calm. There is nothing hurried about him.

He sings in such a way — unlike all our pop stars, he doesn’t intone, doesn’t act his songs. He sings like an instrument, but the result is 10 times as strong as many people. I thought that he corresponds to the image of the Russian Levsha [the smith in one of Nikolai Leskov’s satirical short stories] : A man who drinks heavily but, at the same time … In reality, everything is hung on this man in this country, but people don’t remember him.

I think he is very deserving in this part.

q: a:

Sergei Shnurov, of the band Leningrad, who wrote the film’s title song, only gets a brief cameo. Why? It is a pity. First, we met late. I was almost finishing the film by then. I invited him along and he wrote a remarkable song, “Kopeika.” And when he wrote it and brought it to me, I said, “I have a cameo and I want to film you in it,” literally on that day. So I filmed him.

It was a pleasure to keep him in the film, because I like him a lot. Of course, I would give him a bigger part. Not because he is popular — he’s simply very real. He’s my type of person, so to say.

The KGB officers are shown very convincingly in the film. Have you had dealings with them?

[Laughs] Of course! I have been with them my whole life, and I don’t think I am parting with them even now. They exist forever. I don’t treat them [with hatred]. I understand that, when they wring your arms and carry you somewhere, you won’t forgive them. But, on the whole, I have great pity for them. This is the only way they can be, or so it seems to them. But many [of them] could get on with some good work instead. But they think that the country needs it.

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Though your film is clearly postmodernist, it’s very different from the trendy, elitist Moscow films. Were you aiming to make a popular film for broader public?

I can honestly say that no normal person sets such a goal for himself. I just like what I like. I think there’s 100 times as much postmodernism in [the film] than in all the fake postmodernist films. It has the whole combination.

I know for sure that I have an absolute feeling of love toward the material that goes into this picture. But it is made in quite a tough way. I can’t say that I feel moved and cry over it, or part with my past. That is, thinking seriously about stools in the kitchen, about Okudzhava … I loved them a lot, and still love them, but in my own way, and I think that one should live for today.

Remembering one’s roots is one thing, but to force people to listen only to Okudzhava, or Vysotsky, or Galich, or to sit in the kitchen is today as stupid as to go around St. Petersburg in an open carriage. What’s the point?

This life of ours is remarkable, and we should love it. The most difficult thing is happiness.

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sculpting on the beach

by Natella Kochetkova SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

For the second time, the beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress has been made into an impromptu, open-air exhibition hall housing masterpieces made of sand. Starting on Tuesday, competitors in this year’s International Festival of Sand Sculpture were given just four days to complete a project based on the theme “Rush Hour.” The results will be open to the public, beginning on Friday.

Sand-sculpture festivals have become a widespread tradition around the world, with well-known competititions taking place on the coasts of, among other countries, Canada, Denmark, The Netherlands, Japan, Italy, Spain and the United States. Largely due to their location — usually on a seaside beach, rather than a river, as is the case in St. Petersburg — such competitions attract broad interest from the public, as well as from the media. St. Petersburg’s inaugural festival last year was no exception to the rule, with over 100,000 people visiting the exhibition.

festival

How did you come up with the idea of showing the history of the country through the history of a car?

I think that the sorts of banal things that simply tell a story in a television series are good in the genre. However, [the story is] like “Decameron” [Giovanni Boccacio’s novel of 100 stories told by characters trying to escape the Black Death in Florence in the fourteenth century], we can see that there is no point in showing just [historical] conflicts directly.

Because we are living in something like the Roman Empire, our lives have been at times filled with great conflict. [“Kopeika”] is not a documentary, so therefore it should have an image. An object that lives its own life is much more interesting to me than the story of a certain family that lived through these 30 years. For both [Vladimir] Sorokin [who wrote the script] and myself, it is better to stand at one remove, through an object that was a cult thing in its time.

The competition, although only two years old, is already becoming a fixture in the city’s calendar, and seems sure to be an annual event in the future.

The twelve teams taking part in the competition each consist of two people and, this year, entries have come from the Czech Republic, Finland, Italy, Latvia, The Netherlands, Sweden and Ukraine, as well as Russia. Russia is represented by teams from St. Petersburg, Arkhangelsk, Kargopol, Petrozavodsk and Yakutia. Each team was given 15 cubic meters of sand with which to build its sculpture — adding water or other materials is against the rules — and 25 square meters of space to work in.

In accordance with this year’s theme, contestants in the festival have been required to create a sculpture that reflects the advantages and disadvantages of life in a big city like St. Petersburg.

Although the weather this week has not been ideal for working with a medium such as sand, the sculptors have not been deterred. None of the participants would allow even a small preview of their creations before the adjudication, which will take place on

Friday at 4 p.m., so the few impatient visitors watching them at work could do nothing but guess at the end results.

One creation on the beach, however, has been on display this week, and is not part of the competition: The sculpture of a griffin, emblazoned with the symbol of national television station RTR on its pedestal, is a present from repeat festival participants, and last year’s winners, Frantisek Balek, Josef Balek and Lubas Hasek, merely to show what is possible when working with sand.

The jury for the competition includes cultural figures from St. Petersburg, members of the city administration, representatives from the competitors’ consulates in the city, and the captains of the teams taking part. After Friday’s judging, the exhibition will be opened to the public.

The Second International Festival of Sand Sculpture runs through the end of July on the beach by the Peter and Paul Fortress. Open daily, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Tickets cost 50 rubles. Call 380-4450 for more information.

the st. petersburg times

— by Sergey Chernov

iii

rock, etc.

City Club — Located above the rockabilly bar Money Honey, with a more mature crowd, ages ranging between 20 and 40, the club specializes in pop/rock, blues, reggae and Latin. Hot food, three bars, pool and Russian billiards, plus real fireplaces — but nasty security. Live shows Mon.Sun. at 8.20 p.m. and on Fri.-Sat. also at 1 a.m., 60 rub. 28-30 Sadovaya Ul., Apraksin Dvor, Korpus 13. M: Gostiny Dvor. Entrance through Money Honey. 310-0549. www.moneyhoney.org/cityclub/ Cynic — A grungy student hangout that opened in Feb. 2001 near the Moscow Station and stole some of Fish Fabrique’s clientele. Oriented toward the Bohemian crowd and foreign tourists, once in a while Cynic features semi-spontaneous live performances, despite having no stage. Usually packed at nights. Sun.-Thurs., 10 a.m. to 3 a.m., Fri.-Sat., open 10 a.m. to 7 a.m. 4 Goncharnaya Ul. M: Ploshchad Vosstaniya. 277-5164. www.cynic.spb.ru Fish Fabrique — Despite the spartan interiors and menu, this place is still a favorite for local rock musicians and alternative artists, with the bonuses of table hockey and underground films. Daily 3 p.m. until the last person leaves. Live gigs start at 10:30 p.m., film program at Sun. 8 p.m. 50 rub. 10 Pushkinskaya Ul. (entrance through the arch at 53 Ligovsky Pr.). 164-4857. www.fishfabrique.spb.ru Front — The underground club is located in a bomb shelter (just like Griboyedov) and features live rock and pop/rock bands, with the repertoire similar to those of Fish Fabrique and Moloko. No techno! Daily 7 p.m.- 6 a.m. Live concerts, Tues.-Fri., 8:30 p.m. 50 rub. cover when bands are performing. 31 Ul. Chernyakhovskogo (watch for a bunker in the yard). M: Ligovsky Prospect. www.front.vov.ru Moloko — Probably the best underground rock club in town, where Tequilajazzz, Spitfire and Markscheider Kunst like to perform. Often compared to the seminal, now-defunct TaMtAm Club, Moloko has won a solid reputation among acts and student audiences, which are its mainstay. Wed.-Sun. 7 p.m.-12 a.m. 60-80 rub. 12 Perekupnoi Pereulok. M: Pl. Alexandra Nevskogo/Pl. Vosstaniya. 2749467. http://moloko.piter.net Money Honey — The city’s first and premier rockabilly bar — complete with a confederate flag and Elvis and Marilyn posters. Usually packed with a rowdy crowd of tech students and leather-clad teddyboys. Alas, coat check can only handle half the crowd. Bar open from 11 a.m. Shows daily at 8 p.m. and 12:30 a.m., 40 rub. 28-30 Sadovaya Ul., 14 Apraksin Dvor. M: Gostiny Dvor. 310-0549. www.moneyhoney.org Orlandina – A new art-rock club located is in the same building that the Pereval club occupied in 1995-97. The place has been completely renovated and redesigned by the artist Nikolai Kopeikin, who works with the art-rock band NOM-Zhir. The club belongs to the owners of the popular Caravan and Rock Podval record shops, as well as the Caravan Records label. The capacity is between 100 and 150 people. Nightly concerts at 7 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. 50 rub., Fri.-Sun. 100 rub. 36a Ulitsa Mira. M: Petrogradskaya.

No phone yet, but interested parties can call Caravan at 1106536 for information.

Poligon — Heavier sounds, from hardcore punk to thrash metal, with lots of teenagers in grubby leather until recently, but now the direction seems to have changed in favor of more mainstream rock. Billiards. The worst toilet in the city. Once in, you won’t be able to leave the place — if only to go home. Concerts start at 6 p.m. See Gigs for events. 40-100 rub. 65 Lesnoi Pr. M: Lesnaya. 245-2720. www.polygonclub.spb.ru Psycho Pub — With an unlikely location right off Nevsky, Psycho is a small bar with live alternative music. Aimed primarily at students (both local and foreign), the place started with psychobilly and hardcore punk acts, but after the first 12 months broadened its repertoire, incorporating a wide range of styles from pop/rock to experimental. Now it has been redesigned as a “cross between a saloon and a tavern,” as the owners put it. The stage has been moved to the second floor and replaced by a beer bar. Daily, 3 p.m.-5 a.m. Live concerts, Wed.-Sun., 9 p.m.-12 a.m. 40 rub.

23 Nab. Fontanki. M: Gostiny Dvor.

Red Club — One of the newest additions to the city’s club scene, opened in September in a former horse-fodder warehouse behind the Moscow Station. With two stages, cheap drinks and daily concerts (with night shows by major acts added on Fridays and Saturdays) it looks like the place will soon be able to recoup the considerable amount of money that was poured into opening it. It may run the risk of becoming another Saigon. Daily, 12 p.m.-6 a.m. 50100 rubles (free before 6 p.m.). Concerts daily, 8 p.m. (Fri.Sat., also 11 p.m.) 7 Poltavskaya Ul., M: Ploshchad Vosstaniya, 277-1366. www.redclubonline.com

pop/dance

Havana — Smart Cuban theme club with live bands and three dance floors playing Latino, house and pop. Resturant, chill-out room, pool, and free popcorn for all. Daily until 6 a.m. 30-60 rub. Free on Wed. for “real Latinos” with passports, 75 rub. Fri.-Sat. 21 Moskovsky Prospect, M: Tekhnologichesky Institut. 259-1155.

Hollywood Nites — The once-intimidating original home of the New Russian royalty has become a lot less elitist and more accessible in recent years. The wealthy but largely relaxed crowd is there mainly for the constant cycle of shows — usually lip-sync pop and strip shows, with occasional MTV stars playing late concerts after stadium shows to beef up their wallets. Pleasant but pricey diner/bar down-

FOR SPT

The week’s — probably the year’s — biggest event will take place on Sunday — but not in St. Petersburg. Iggy Pop, the “Godfather of Punk,” will appear at the Tushino airfield in Moscow, and some St. Petersburgers are planning to go.

The musician, whose influence on the evolution of rock music cannot be overestimated, comes to Russia for a single show on Sunday as part of his current European tour, and it happens to be at a festival of Russian (sic) rock, called Krylya (Wings).

Pop was writing and performing punk songs with his band, The Stooges, a decade before the Sex Pistols or The Clash emerged on the scene in the 1970s.

With its driving guitar riffs and a frontman — Pop — known for cutting his chest with broken glass and smearing his body with peanut butter during performances, The Stooges soon made a name for themselves on the Detroit rock scene for bringing something entirely new to contemporary music.

“I wanted music to reach out and strangle people,” Pop once said about these early days.

Pop was born James Newell Osterberg in Muskegon, Michigan on April 21, 1947. Although his friends to this day call him Jimmy, Pop publicly became Iggy when he formed his first band, The Iguanas, while still in high school. Later, in 1967, he formed The Stooges after attending a Doors concert in Chicago.

After the band split, Pop vanished from the rock ‘n’ roll scene for several years, before resurfacing, with the help of Stooges fan David Bowie, who took Pop to Berlin, where he launched a solo career, remaking himself in the then-popular glam genre.

Pop’s solo debut, the Bowie-produced and co-written “The Idiot” (1977), contained such popular hits as “Nightclubbing” and “China Girl” (Bowie would cover the latter on his 1983 album “Let’s Dance”). The Bowie-Pop partnership produced another album within the year, “Lust for Life,” which contained the now oftencovered rock classic “The Passenger.”

Pop’s most recent album of new material — his 16th — is the guitardriven “Beat ‘em Up,” released last July. He released a record of live music, “Power and Freedom,” in April.

Pop’s set is scheduled to begin at 8:40 p.m. and will last for 80 minutes.

If you are not an Iggy fan, you can always relax to the lounge stylings of Japan’s Plastic Fantastic Machine which plays at the StereoLeto festival in the Molodyozhny Theater and its gardens on Saturday.

Reports say, though, that last weekend’s event began three hours late, and some of the audience left before the headliners, Italy’s Montefiori Cocktail, took the stage.

As club audiences started to leave the heated city for more relaxed places, some local venues have adjusted their schedules to the smaller crowds.

Red Club is now closed on Monday and Tuesday, and it now opens at 6 p.m. rather than noon.

Faculty’s management has said the place would not hold regular gigs for a while.

“If there are concerts, they will be big acts such as Tequilajazzz, or Sergei Shnurov,” said Faculty’s Stanislav Reinov.

Front is planning repairs in the near future, but promises that it will be open for the next two weeks.

For the rest of the pack — including Fish Fabrique, Moloko and Griboyedov — it is business as usual.

friday, july 5, 2002

NOM is more than just a musical group, adding theatrics and video footage to its shows. Having released a full-length "thriller-cum-fairy tale" called "Paseka" last month, the band will appear at Red Club on Saturday. stairs. Weds.-Sun. 11 p.m.-6 a.m. 46 Nevsky Pr., 311-6077. www.hollywood.ru Marstall — Usually packed with googgle-eyed foreigners (whose passports get them in for free), Marstall runs a dazzling array of stripshows, with the most athletic dancers and the most creative costumes in town. Bar and restaurant. Open daily from 12 p.m. to 6 a.m. Stripshows start at 11 p.m. 5 Kanal Griboyedova. M: Nevsky Prospect. 315-7607.

Metro — Someone has spent a great deal of money on Metro and the results, while hardly intimate, have been a great success. Now Metro comes with a fully functioning third floor containing a relaxing saloon-bar and yet another dance floor, enabling it to accomodate even more well-off local teenagers. Chewing gum is forbidden. Open daily 10 p.m.-6 a.m. 66-250 rub. 174 Ligovsky Pr. 166-0204. www.metroclub.ru National Hunt — Eurodance dominates this roomy hunting-lodge-style(ish) club. In contrast to its early days, the ladies of easy virtue have been sent packing. The strip show is still in evidence, however, including male strippers on Tuesdays and Fridays. Open daily, 12 p.m.-6 a.m., 50100 rub., free for foreigners. 11 Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa.

311-1343.

jazz & blues

(812) Jazz Club — The latest addition to St. Petersburg’s jazz scene, (812) hosts mainstream, funk, and — inevitably — Latin. Concerts are followed by jam sessions. Conveniently located next to the Petrogradskaya metro station.

Daily 8 p.m. until last person leaves. Concerts start at 8 p.m., with jam sessions following at 10:30 p.m. 100-150 rubles. 98 Bolshoi Prospect (Petrograd side). Enter from the yard. M: Petrogradskaya. 346-1631.

Jazz Philharmonic Hall — Staid, state-sponsored jazz venue, intended by its founder, local jazz patriarch David Goloshchokin, to be Russia's answer to New York's seminal Blue Note. Mostly mainstream and Dixieland repertoire, with the occasional drop of blues. Home of the annual White Nights Swing jazz festival. See Gigs for concerts. 8 p.m.-11:30 p.m. 100-120 rub. Tickets in advance at box-office, 2 p.m.-8 p.m. 27 Zagorodny Pr. M: Vladimirskaya/Dostoevskaya. 164-8565. www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.

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Open 4 p.m. to 6 a.m.

Tel.: 311-1690 1 Pl. Dekabristov (next to the Bronze Horseman)

JFC Jazz Club — Probably the most innovative and progressive jazz venue in town. Less formal atmosphere, with all styles up to avant-garde and improv. Classic and folk concerts occasionally. The latest addition is Ethno World, a monthly concert of world music. Mostly jazz crowd and expats. Bar and snacks. Daily from 7 p.m., 60100 rub. 33 Shpalernaya Ul. M: Chernyshevskaya. 272-9850. www.jfc.sp.ru Jimi Hendrix Blues Club — What was once the Armenian café “Shagane” (and Armenian cuisine is still available) now offers live blues, rock and jazz concerts, with videos from the likes of Eric Clapton and Blue Cheer in between.

Open 24 hours. Concerts start at 7:30 p.m. 50-70 run. 33 Liteiny Pr., 279-8813.

Kvadrat — The latest location for the jazz club with a long history. Launched way back in 1964 as one of the first jazz clubs in the country, it was the underground center of Russian jazz for decades. Mostly younger musicians fill the stage and auditorium, which holds 40. Mainstream jazz. Mon., Sat., 8 p.m.-10:45 p.m. 30 rub. 83 Bolshoi Prospect . M: Vasileostrovskaya. 315-9046, 322-2404. www.jazz.nm.ru.

Neo Jazz Club — What the restaurant “Mukha Tsokotukha” (opposite the Mukhina Art College) turns into at night. Neat design, though the place has still yet to find its own atmosphere. Specializes in mellow jazz styles, with duos and trios performing for the most part, usually without a drummer. Capacity: 35-40 seats. Armenian and European cuisine. Daily, 9 a.m.-12 a.m. 50 rub. cover after 8 p.m.

14 Solyanoi Per. 273-3830.

Palitra Art Café — Yet another medium-priced art café with live jazz and blues, less frequently some rock and country. Photo and art exhibitions. Music program is basically equivalent to Jimi Hendrix Blues Club, Neo Jazz Club and Sunduk Art café. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Concerts daily start at 9 p.m. 30 rubles cover when a band is playing. 5 Malaya Morskaya Ul. M: Nevsky Prospect. 3123435.

Sunduk Art Café — Another small place with a pleasant atmosphere and live music. Though it used to feature restaurant musicians and Soviet pop songs, lately it has featured mostly jazz, blues and some rock. Open daily, 10

a.m. to 11:30 p.m. 30 rubles cover charge from 8:30 p.m. 42 Furshtatskaya Ul. M: Chernyshevskaya. 272-3100.

house, techno etc.

Griboyedov — Located in a bomb shelter and operated by the band Dva Samaliota, this club is generally full and cool, with a good habit of booking alternative bands to mix with its standard rave and techno. This is one of the best in the city. Wednesday is disco night. Daily, 5 p.m.-6 a.m. 60-80 rub. Free between 5 p.m and 8 p.m. 2A Voronezhskaya Ul. M: Ligovsky Pr. 164-4355. www.mfiles.spb.ru/griboedov Mama — Decadent house-party feel, featuring some of the best techno in St. Petersburg. Drum’n’bass/jungle, visiting and resident DJs. Very young crowd, so if you’re over 20 you may feel out of place. Fri.-Sat., 11:50 p.m.-6 a.m., 60 rub. 3B Mal. Monetnaya Ul.. M: Gorkovskaya. 232-3137.

Par.sbp — New house club opened in Nov. Officially, it is a club extension of the International Cultural Center, located on the same premises. Exhibitions are planned alongside techno parties. For events see gigs. 100-150 rub.

5B Alexandrovsky Park. M: Gorkovskaya. 233-3374, 238–0970. www.icc.sp.ru Tunnel — The pioneering techno hangout has recently reappered, after a five-year hiatus, in its former location — a bunker. Now it specializes in all kinds of electronic dance music. Two dance floors, chillout room. Military stylings. Fri., Sat., 12 a.m to 6 a.m. 150-300 rub. Corner of Lyubansky Pereulok and Zverinskaya Ulitsa. M: Gorkovskaya. Tel.: 2334015. www.tunnelclub.ru

gay

Greshniki — The decor suggests that Greshniki (“Sinners”) is more of an S&M joint, with chains hanging across the spiral staircase and a curious medieval castle interior. The bar staff are dressed as either demons or fallen angels and the strippers in leather. Spread over four floors, Greshnki caters to the lower end of the gay market and much of what’s on offer here is in imitation of 69.

Daily, 6 p.m-6 a.m., free-70 rub. (men), 100-200 rub. (women), 29 Kanal Griboyedova. M: Gostiny Dvor. 3184291. www.greshniki.gay.ru

iv

friday, july 5, 2002

the st. petersburg times shashliks over a charcoal stove. The pop-opera “Three little pigs” — an appetizing, hot main course, prepared from songs and dances to a varietyshow recipe and spiced with strong jokes — plays in Valhall’s Show Hall. The disco can be your desert. Outside catering. Breakfast from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 80 rubles. (4 different menus).

Lunch from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 180 rubles.

(4 different menus, including vegetarian). Dinner from 6 p.m. from 450 rubles. 22/24 Nevsky Pr. (opposite Kazan Cathedral). Open from 10 a.m. to 3 a.m. (or until the last guest leaves). Phone for table and ticket reservations at 311-0024.

“Adamant” discount cards and credit cards accepted.

a paid service $ under $10, $$ under $25, $$$ over $25

all-english pub/club The Red Lion

Enjoy an exciting and unforgettable adventure day or night at the first authentic English Pub in St. Petersburg.

Come and join the fun in the beautiful surroundings of Alexandrovsky Park.

Experience the genuine atmosphere you have been looking for, Traditional English Pub Food, and satisfy your thirst with more than 30 kinds of beer.

Every Monday you can listen to live music starting at 20.00. Tuesday all ladies enjoy three hours of Unlimited Free Champagne from 19.30 until 22.30 as well as live country music at 20.00 and disco music from 23.00. On Wednesday and Thursday enjoy our live house band from 20.00, and, if youre brave enough, try your voice in our Thursday Karaoke Competition starting at 20.00. Then, if you’re still standing, put on your dancing shoes. Every Friday and Saturday, there’s live music at 20.00 and Super Disco Music from 23.00 until 5.00. Draft beer 34 rubles. Great food, big menu, affordable prices. All-day breakfast. And, as always, superior service.

Open 24 hours, 7 days a week, 365 days a year, we never close. 4 Alexandrovsky Park. Tel.: 233-9391. M: Gorkovskaya, next to Baltiisky Dom Theater.

confectionary

home delivery

James Cook pub & cafe

La Cucaracha La Cucaracha - Delivery. For the first time in St. Petersburg, free delivery anywhere in the city in just 40 minutes. Original Mexican cuisine at your office, home or party. 11 a.m. to midnight. Tel. 222-1212.

La Cucaracha - Take Away.

Mexican cuisine to take away in five minutes. 62-64 Sverdlovskaya Nab. Call-a-Pizza. Genuine Italian pizza delivered free anywhere in the city in 35 minutes. Special discounts for offices.

Tel. 227-3571.

COFFEE TO THE LEFT, BEER TO THE RIGHT! Welcome to enjoy the real coffee and a great beer at one place – at a stylish pub and cozy coffee house. 14 kinds of beer on draught, 30 kinds of coffee, 25 kinds of elite tea. Own confectionery. Business lunch from 12:30 to 5:00 p.m. French breakfast from 9:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Live music Thu.-Sat. Credit cards accepted.

Open daily 9.00 a.m. till the last guest leaves (coffee house), 12.00 till the last guest leaves (pub). 2 Shvedsky Pereulok (at the end of Malaya Konyushennaya Ul.).

Tel. 312-3200 (free reservations!)

bars Caviar Bar Traditional Russian cuisine.

Open 6 p.m. to 12 a.m.

In the Grand Hotel Europe. 329-6000 .

european Crocodile Whiskey Bar

cafe

Mezzanine Cafe Salads, sandwiches and delicious cakes.

More than 20 types of coffee.

Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

In the Grand Hotel Europe. 329-6000.

catering

Give your next event a touch of excellence with our five-star catering services.

Banquets, buffets and full event planning.

Corinthia Nevskij Palace.

Tel.: 380-2001. Fax: 380-1937. $$$ Tandoor Restaurant We provide small to medium outdoor catering services for parties and banquet functions. Reasonable prices.

2 Voznesensky Prospect. Tel.: 312-3886. $$-$$$

coffee houses Ideal cup The first chain of coffee houses in Russia. Classical coffee recepies and our own unique coffee inventions, delicious pastries and original desserts.

New coffee house has just opened at 2 Kamennoostrovsky Pr. 82 Bolshoy Pr., P.S. 2 Vladimirsky Pr., 19 Kirochnaya Ul., 15 Nevsky Pr., 112 Nevsky Pr., 130 Nevsky Pr., 25 Sadovaya Ul., 46 Sredny Pr.

Tschaika

Ontrome

We invite you to visit the Ontrome chain of French confectionary shops to try a tasty dessert, made from heavenly sponge cake, rich whipped cream, fruits and berries, nuts and chocolate — with these basic ingredients turned into a small miracle through the art of a master! And our miracles aren’t only small, as Ontrome’s pastry chefs can also prepare to order cakes of all shapes and sizes. 58 Nab. Kanala Griboyedova. Tel.: 310-7339. Mon. to Wed.: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Thu. to Sat.:10 a.m. – 9 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

36 Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. Tel.: 315-5030.

Mon. to Wed.: 10 am. to 9 p.m., Thur., Fri. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

New Location! 3 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 311-8286.

Mon. to Sun. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. www.aktivist.ru “Adamant” discount cards accepted.

Kameya We are open again after a complete renovation and waiting for you. Two new halls. A wide range of delicious dishes and a wide choice of beverages. Every fourth mug of beer is free!

We organize banquets, corporate parties and funeral banquets for 10 to 50 people for $17 per person. Business lunch daily from noon to 4 p.m. for $2.

Open from noon till the last guest leaves.

32 Gagarinskaya Ul. Tel.: 272-6066

german

More than 25 kinds of whiskey (Scotch, Irish, American, Canadian). Friendly atmosphere and excellent European cuisine at the lowest price you can get.

Expats most welcome. Modern photography exhibitions. Chess and backgammon. Crocodiles are all over the interior, but our bartenders are pleasant and alert. Daily 12 p.m. to 12 a.m. All credit cards accepted. 18 Galernaya Ul. (near St. Isaac’s Square). Tel.: 314-9437.

Plaza

Seven kinds of German beer. Live music daily. Authentic German cuisine. Open daily 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Some credit cards accepted. 14 Kanal Griboyedova.

C A F E – C L U B Manilov is a new cafe-club, named for a character in Nikolai Gogol’s novel “Dead Souls,” that was recently awarded the title of “The Best Restaurant of St. Petersburg 2002.”

It has a stylish interior, including a show-cum-sale of modern art. In a pleasant, quiet atmosphere, you can enjoy Russian and European dishes.

Also special vegetarian menu.

Business lunch from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. for 150 rub. A large range of alcoholic drinks, from absinthe to the rare chacha to 12-year-old Japanese whisky.

Cuban and Dominican cigars. Live music every Thursday from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m. July 4, 18 - “Bossa” Jazz duet.

July 11, 25 - “NeitNoi” duet and “Dvigenie” group. Modern folk music.

Live jazz every Friday (except July 5) from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Please join us!

Open 11 a.m. until the last guest leaves.

5 7-aya Krasnoarmeiskaya Ul. M: Tekhnologichesky Institut.

Tel.: 112-7875.

Magrib Restaurant, night club, cafe.

Oriental, European, Japanese cuisine. The only Moroccan night club with exquisite cuisine. Every weekend - famous DJs, fashion shows, cozy atmosphere. You can also enjoy a light snack in our cafe, which is open 24 hours.

Address: 84 Nevsky Pr., (across from the

watch (we only use ecologically clean water). You will be delighted by our interior, which represents the spirit of the Land of the Rising Sun. Indulging in traditional sake and plum wine will help you understand the secret of the health and lifespan of the Japanese people. New take-out service. Sushi bar – from $7. Business lunch – from $15 (noon – 6 p.m.)

11 Gorokhovaya Ul. Tel.: 314-7417.

26 Ul. Vosstaniya. Tel.: 275-3297.

140 Moskovsky Pr. Tel.: 327-0199

korean Grand Café Koreana Welcome to the new grand café. We offer authentic South-Korean cuisine and also sushi. Ten percent lunch discount valid until 3 p.m. Wedding parties and banquets welcome (free karaoke for parties).

25 Ligovsky Pr. Tel.: 277-0213.

mexican Tequila-Boom

Now you don’t need to go to Mexico to try Mexican cuisine. You can find it at TequilaBoom! Tequila-Boom belongs to a chain of cantinas in Mexico City, Acapulco, Cancun, Los Angeles and now here in St. Petersburg! It is the only cantina here run

by Mexican chefs. You can enjoy all kinds of seafood, meat delicacies, many varieties of Mexican tequila, wonderful prawn cocktails, and traditional dishes made to recipes such as Carnitas, Alambre, Fajitas, Quesadillas and many others. Live folk music, Latin-American dancing. Daily, 12 p.m. until the last guest leaves. Parking.

English, Spanish-speaking staff. Credit cards accepted. 57/127 Voznesensky Pr., corner of Voznesensky and Fontanka. To reserve a table or book a banquet, call 310-1534.

Restaurant old-russian cuisine

Count Suvorov

A fine-dining restaurant, located in the historical center of St. Petersburg in one of the wings of Vorontsovsky Palace right on the corner of Gostiny and Apraksin Dvor. Excellent Russian cuisine.

Unique dishes from the Court of Her Imperial Majesty. First-class service. The best musicians in the city. Dancing.

Daily from noon until the last guest leaves. All credit cards accepted.

6 Ul. Lomonosova/26 Sadovaya Ul. Tel.: 315-4328.

Rasputin Restaurant-Bar

Authentic Russian cuisine served in traditional Russian dishes. Stylish interior. Show of Russian beauties from 9 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday. “This place has a professional level of cooking” (Kommersant, 30.03.2002). Business lunches daily from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. for 180 rubles.

Daily from 12 p.m. until the last guest leaves. Tel.: 277-3141, 277-0256.

Near Moskva Hotel and AlexandroNevskaya Lavra. M: Ploshchad Alexandra Nevskogo.

St. Petersburg

A Russian restaurant in authentic Petersburg style located in one of the most beautiful places in not only our city, but also in all world, opposite the Church of the Savior on the Spilled Blood. Business lunch daily from noon until 5 p.m. A great wine list and irreproachable service. Live music and dancing beginning at 8 p.m. The new program of a renowned Russia-style variety show starting at 9 p.m.

Call 314-4947 to reserve a table.

5 Kanal Griboyedova.

Demidov restaurant

vietnamese Pagoda Mot Kot

21 UL. DEKABRISTOV TEL.: 312-3205, 312-0911

M: Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 312-4631.

E-mail: tschaika@mail.wplus.net http://www.aktivist.ru/tschaika $$

Nevskij Palace Hotel). Club is open 10 p.m.-6 a.m. every day, cafe - 24 hours, restaurant 12 p.m.- 6 a.m.

Tel.: 275-7620.

English-speaking staff

indian Restaurant Tandoor Delicious food. Good vegetarian selection. Very popular. English spoken.

Business lunch from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. for only $10. Daily 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. 2 Voznesensky Prospect, near St. Isaac’s Cathedral. Tel.: 312-3886.

Some credit cards accepted. $$

Aquarel

St. Petersbirg’s first fusion-cuisine restaurant. Exclusive menu from a French chef. Two levels. The second level - fusion-restaurant; the third level - grill and bar. Exclusive deserts. Club-style jazz music. DJs on Fridays and Saturdays.

The best panoramic views in the city.

Petrograd Side, near Birzhevoi Bridge.

Tel.: 320-8600 (Malaya Neva area).

Dvorianskoye Gnezdo (Noble Nest)

Valhall

Valhall is a unique cabaret restaurant on Nevsky Prospect. There are four halls at your service: Sea Hall, Royal Hall, Iggdrasil and Show Hall. There are torches on the walls, the seats are covered with animal pelts, and the bar looks like the front part of an ancient ship. The hustle and bustle of a great city remains outside the door. At Valhall, you are in a 19th-century atmosphere. Pork ribs are smoked for you, and Valhall’s cellars — full of exquisite wines and other drinks for those who like something more strong — are waiting for you.

NEW: Our experienced cook will cook you succulent meat, fish or poultry

Manilov

THE NOBLE NEST

international The Plaza Restaurant is located in the historic center of the city, in the most picturesque part of St. Petersburg.

Sitting in our dining room you can admire the beautiful view of the Peter and Paul Fortress and the Rostral Columns. European cuisine. Wide list of wines from around the world. We happily organize special events, banquets, parties and business lunches.

Special offer: Disco dances, the best music of 80s and 90s evety Wednesday and Thursday at 8 p.m. The Plaza is open 24 hours. Convenient parking. Vasilievsky Island, 2 Nab. Makarova. Tel.: 323-9090.

a.m. Live music: 7 p.m. to 12 p.m. Open from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. All major credit cards accepted. We promise you a warm Russian welcome! 43/1 Lermontovsky Pr. (Sovetskaya Hotel, entrance from Fontanka Nab.) Free parking lot.

Call 329-9586 to reserve. $$

The city’s top restaurant, located in the Trianon of the Yusupov Palace.

Excellent cuisine combined with impeccable service and a wide range of exceptional wines.

Live music from 8 p.m.

Open 7 days a week from 12 p.m. to 12 a.m. Reservations recommended.

Call 312-3205 or 312-0911 to reserve.

21 Ulitsa Dekabristov (near the Mariinsky Theater) $$-$$$ Fontanka Restaurant Stylish interiors. Eye-catching view.

Traditional Russian and European delicacies. Buffet breakfast: 8 a.m to 10

Want to live history today? Take a break from the hassles of modern life with a memorable dining experience at Demidov Restaurant. From classic Russian cuisine to antique interiors and gypsy music, Demidov creates the ambiance of Russia from centuries ago.

We also cater for parties and banquets, and serve business lunch weekdays until 5 p.m. for 300 rubles. 50-percent discount on alcohol with the purchase of a business lunch. Gala dinner 600 rubles. 30% discount on alcohol with gala dinners. For a quick snack, visit our cafe for home-style Georgian cooking.

Open from noon until the last guest leaves, major credit cards accepted.

14 Nab. Fontanki, Tel.: 272-9181. http://www.demidov.spb.ru

italian La Strada Restaurant

oriental Kalif Restaurant

Italian Restaurant-Pizzeria under a crystal cupola. Unique interior in the style of a small Italian street with a Florentine balcony. Salad bar and homemade pasta.

Pizza prepared right before your eyes.

Open daily noon to 11 p.m. 2 7 Bolshaya Konnushennaya Ul. Tel.: 312-4700

japanese

Beautifully designed oriental Restaurant.

Extensive menu. Daily folk music and belly dancing. Live music daily except Tuesday and Wednesday. Three minutes walk from the Hermitage. Open daily noon to midnight. VISA, Mastercard, Union. 21 Millionnaya Ul. Tel.: 312-2265

Planet Sushi

pizza Patio Pizza Planet Sushi belongs to a chain of traditional Japanese restaurants. It is popular and well-known for its reasonable prices, great choice and good quality of food and drinks! Our chefs and servers serve you the best food and dining at our restaurant is most pleasant and enjoyable! We are open daily from noon to midnight. Our special Lunch Bentos are available until 5 p.m. on weekday. We accept major credit cards!

94 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 275-7533.

Shogun

The well-known Japanese restaurant Shogun invites you to the opening of our new SUSHI BAR on Moskovsky Prospect in addition to its popular bar on Gorokhovaya and the eponymous restaurant on Vosstaniya. Our skillful chef prepares SUSHI, SASHIMI and other Japanese delicacies while you

Patio Pizza restaurants are a small piece of sunny Italy right here in St. Petersburg. All-you-can-eat business lunch on weekdays from noon until 4:00 p.m. for 195 rubles. Enjoy our unlimited salad bar with 25 types of salad for 185 rubles. From June 1 – new menu. We accept American Express, MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club, JCB, and Maestro.

Visit us at the following locations: 182 Nevsky Prospect, Tel.: 271-3177.

30 Nevsky Prospect, Tel.: 314-8215

russian Admiralty Restaurant Traditional Russian cuisine in a stylish maritime setting. Live entertainment.

Tuesday to Saturday from 6 p.m.

57 Nevsky Pr., 2nd floor, Corinthia Nevskij Palace.

Tel.: 380-2001, fax: 380-1937.

A new theme restaurant featuring original Vietnamese cuisine from the Chan Service Group. Upon entering the restaurant, you’ll be greeted with the banging of a gong, just like when entering a real Buddhist temple (pagoda). There are three main halls, individual dining cabins, a waterfall, a goldfish pool, handmade furniture, and a bamboo hut. Everything was made with you in mind. The pleasant and romantic atmosphere, European comfort, oriental hospitality and exotic taste of delicious cuisine will make your visit an unforgetable one. Welcome to sunny Vietnam right in St. Petersburg. The restaurant is open from noon until the last customer. Credit cards are accepted. 10% discount on all dishes until 5 p.m. on weekdays. Live music daily from 7:30 p.m.

Tel.: 273-0184, 275-1446. www.pagoda.ru 50 Ul. Chaikovskogo.

M. Chernyshevskaya. Opposite the Finnish Consulate

wine Château Club

Wine Salon and Grand-Cafe located in the historic center of St. Petersburg. The saloon interior is decorated with refined works by sculptors, smiths, engravers and artists. The wine list of Grand-Cafe features the finest examples from the Wine Salon’s selection, which comprises 600 brands of drink from all over the world. There is a lunch menu, which is very simple to select from and is not expensive, and a refined dinner menu. Life saxophone and accordion music every Friday and Saturday. All major credit cards accepted.

Open daily, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. The wine in the cafe is sold at wholesale prices, without a restaurant mark-up.

Château Club – Grand-Cafe and wine salon: 8 Malaya Morskaya Ul. Tel.: 312-6097. Château Club - wine Salon: 6/8 Bolshoi Pr., Petrograd Side.

Tel.: 232-0472.

spanish Torres Spanish cuisine. Very large selection of Spanish wines. Pleasant setting. Daily live music from 9 p.m. Flamenco dancing and the Argentine tango on Fridays and Saturdays from 10 p.m. Business lunch for 130 rubles on weekdays. All credit cards accepted.

Open daily noon to 5 a.m.

53 Nevsky Prospect. Tel.: 113-1453

the st. petersburg times

i

Papa! Poor, Poor Papa! Igor Selin directs Arthur Kopit’s “pseudo-tragicomedy” about a child’s view of the often-cruel rules of adult life. Priyut Komedianta Theater

monday, july 8 ballet

Swan Lake The St. Petersburg Theater of Classical Ballet performs Tchaikovsky’s evergreen classic. Alexandriinsky Theater, 7:30 p.m.

The Fountain of Bakhchisarai Rostislav Zakharov choreographs and Sergei Radlov directs Boris Assafiev’s ballet based on Pushkin’s poem about a sultan and his harem.

Mariinsky Theater La Sylphide Maria von Rosen stages Auguste Bournonville’s 19th-century Romantic ballet about a young Scot who falls in love with a beautiful sylph on the eve of his wedding.

Mussorgsky Theater

concert

St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra Bruno Leonardo Gelber (piano, France). Yury Temirkanov conducts a program including Debussy’s “La mer,” Ravel’s “Valse” and Schuman’s Piano Concerto. The final performance by the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra at the Shostakovich Philharmonic this season. Shostakovich Philharmonic

theater

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): Play It Again, Sam … Gennady Mushpert directs Woody Allen’s “cinecomedy,” a typical Allen mix of one-liners, neurotic pathos, and keen observations on the human condition. Akimov Comedy Theater The Audience Is Forbidden To Watch Alexander Isakov directs this story about the trials and tribulations of life in the theater.

Baltiisky Dom The Seagull Chekhov’s classic, staged by Alexander Tovstoganov. Mironov Theater Papa! Poor, Poor Papa! Igor Selin directs Arthur Kopit’s “pseudo-tragicomedy” about a child’s view of the often-cruel rules of adult life. The final performance of the theater’s season. Priyut Komedianta Theater

tuesday, july 9 ballet

Swan Lake Tchaikovsky’s evergreen classic about true love and the consequences of a deception. Mussorgsky Theater Swan Lake Tchaikovsky’s signature ballet, choreographed by Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov. Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory Theater, 8 p.m.

concert

Governor’s Orchestra of St. Petersburg Stanislav Gorkovenko conducts a program of waltzes by the Strauss family. Capella, 8 p.m.

RUSSIAN MUSIC COLLECTION: Gypsy Blues The Loiko trio performs original material and arrangements. The final concert of the festival. Marble Palace, White Hall. 5/1

✂

a blizzard of intriguing ideas

by Katherine Ters SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

I’ve never really thought of myself as the kind of person who would dine in an establishment where the service staff dress in rabbit costumes but, on this occasion, I’m glad I made the exception.

While walking down Nab. Reki Fontanka recently, I came across a doorway, shielded by iron curtains and with a pair of long-eared rabbit statues sitting out in front. Intrigued, if a little apprehensive, I took a look inside, and found the engaging interior of a new bar-restaurant called Purga (Blizzard).

Purga is the creation of the “Art Vtroyom” design trio, the same collective that is responsible for the interior at the club Hali Gali and the restaurant Sakvoyazh.

The group’s new project is full of interesting things to look at, sit on and play with — there is even a miniature puppet show — and its year-round Christmas tree conjures up a perpetual feeling of winter holidays.

The servers — male and female — all wear rabbit costumes, but not of a Hugh Hefner style. Purga’s largomorphs have a much more PC look: headscarves with rabbit ears, white

the dish

continued from page

Millionaya Ul. M: Nevsky Prospect/Gostiny Dvor. Tel.: 110-6688. 312-5544.

Mariinsky Theater Orchestra Valery Gergiev conducts a program of Tchaikovsky’s fantasy-overture “Romeo and Juliet,” Khachaturian’s Flute Concerto, and fragments from Puccini’s opera “La Boheme.” Mariinsky Theater St. Petersburg Philharmonic Academic Symphony Orchestra Elian Rodriguez (piano, Brazil). Dmitry Makhtin (violin). Alexander Dmitriev conducts a program of works including Rachmaninov’s Second Piano Concerto and Prokofiev’s Second Violin Concerto. Shostakovich Philharmonic

theater

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): Rock Concert With Grigory Gorin Gennady Mushpert stages his own play based on themes from plays by Gorin. Akimov Comedy Theater The Audience Is Forbidden To Watch Alexander Isakov directs this story about the trials and tribulations of life in the theater.

Baltiisky Dom The Seagull Lev Dodin directs Chekhov’s well-worn play, widely considered the first modernist drama. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe PREMIERE! How He Lied to Her Husband Subtitled “A Warning to Playgoers,” this

biker pants, and white T-shirts with strips of fake fur attached. The overall effect is actually quite fetching.

The rabbit theme is also in evidence on the ceiling, where there are about a dozen large beasts, with rather menacing facial expressions and fingers. (The observant might suggest that the critter’s faces, like the ones protruding from the air-conditioning pipe, are not dissimilar to that of one of Purga’s owners.)

The aluminum foil also on the ceiling achieves an interesting effect, and the cables anchoring the chairs to the floor and the ceiling might help those diners who have overindulged to remain on their stools.

Each of the ten or so tables has its own design concept. One appears to represent a skier, while another is raised up on a platform and accessed by stainless-steel, check-pattern steps.

Freestanding doors separate the tables from a space that becomes a dancefloor later in the evening. Some patrons — myself included — found that knocking at and walking through these doors was an entertaining way of passing time between ordering and the arrival of the food.

The food. It is something of a rarity to find a restaurant in St. Petersburg that serves fresh bread — even some one-act Shaw play targets the fatuous, idle rich and their desire for culture, with wicked comic timing and a bit of physical comedy thrown in for good measure.

Mironov Theater

wednesday, july 10 ballet

Swan Lake The St. Petersburg Theater of Classical Ballet performs Tchaikovsky’s evergreen classic. Alexandriinsky Theater, 7:30 p.m.

concert

Evening of Organ Music German organist Stefan Kordes plays a program of works to be announced. Shostakovich Philharmonic Evening of Organ Music Leonid Klimovsky plays a program including works by Bach, Francois Couperin and Mendelssohn. Capella, 8 p.m.

opera

I Pagliaci/Cavaliera Rusticana Concert performances of these two short operas, by Ruggiero Leoncavallo and Pietro Mascagni, respectively. Mariinsky Theater PREMIERE! Faust Stanislav Gaudasinsky stages Charles Gounod’s 1859 opera about a man who sells his soul to the devil in order to obtain eternal life and the beautiful Marguerite. After fighting a duel and killing Marguerite’s brother, Faust is

27 Zagorodny Pr. Tel.: 113-2999, 113-5343, 310-4241 5-persent discount with this coupon

dragged down to hell. The last performance of the theater’s season. Mussorgsky Theater

INDIAN CUISINE OFFERING DELICIOUS KEBABS & CURRIES

BEST FOOD & SERVICE Daily noon to 11 p.m.; Major CC.

2 Vo z n e s e n s k y P r o s p e c t .

Te l . : 3 1 2 3 8 8 6 , 3 1 2 5 3 1 0 .

N e a r S t . I s a a c ’s C a t h e d r a l .

Invite them.

CORSAR European cuisine Every day till 6 p.m.: 40 rubles for two glasses of Baltika

Come and enjoy a pint of Guinness and GOOD food at a GOOD price.

20 kinds of beer on tap.

36 Ul. Rubinshteina, tel.: 319-9768

Indian Restaurant

SWAGAT - Delicious kebabs, curries -

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): Rock Concert With Grigory Gorin Gennady Mushpert stages his own play based on themes from plays by Gorin. Akimov Comedy Theater Broadway Blues Gennady Mai directs a production based on Neil Simon’s autobiographical trilogy which includes “Brighton Beach Memoirs,” “Biloxi Blues” and “Broadway Bound.” Baltiisky Dom The Seagull Lev Dodin directs Chekhov’s well-worn play, widely considered to be the first modernist drama. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe PREMIERE! How He Lied to Her Husband Subtitled “A Warning to Playgoers,” this one-act Shaw play targets the fatuous, idle rich and their desire for culture, with wicked comic timing and a bit of physical comedy thrown in for good measure.

Mironov Theater

EXCLUSIVE

ListingsEVERY FRIDAY

TO ADVERTISE CALL 325−6080

concert

Evening of Piano Music Andrei Ivanovich plays a program of works to be announced Capella Unpredictable Concert Alexander Kantorov conducts the Classica Symphony Orchestra in a program of works to be announced.

Shostakovich Philharmonic

theater

Grodnenskaya Oblast Drama Theater (Belarus): Athens Evenings Gennady Mushpert directs Pavel Gladinin’s play about love and people’s attraction to each other.

Akimov Comedy Theater Biloxi Blues The story of a young man training for WWII at a boot camp in Mississippi, and learning on the way about real life, enduring relentless abuse from a drill sergeant and losing his virginity to a prostitute. Alexander Isakov directs.

Baltiisky Dom The Seagull Lev Dodin directs Chekhov’s well-worn play, widely known as the first

thursday, july 11 ballet

Swan Lake The St. Petersburg Theater of Classical Ballet performs Tchaikovsky’s evergreen classic. Alexandriinsky Theater, 7:30 p.m.

continued on page

viii

THE IDIOT

Open: Tuesday to Thursday 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Friday, Saturday 1 p.m. to 5 a.m.

Friday, Saturday: 70 rubles for entrance Tel.: 318-4184.

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Open daily 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

82 Nab. Reki Moiki, tel.: 315−1675 ●

Great Russian and vegetarian food served all day

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Jazz, cappuccino, fresh juice, specialty teas

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Happy hour from 6:30 to 7:30

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Weekend brunch

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Used English−language books and magazines, plus an art gallery

Disco−Bar №1

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- Good vegetarian selection - Indian dances -

Live music from 8:30 p.m.

Restaurant

Giselle The classic Romantic ballet, with music by Adolphe Adam and choreography by Jules Perrot and Jean Coralli. Mariinsky Theater

theater

A warm Irish welcome awaits you at Mollie's – St. Petersburg's first IRISH PUB.

The original rock ‘n’ roll club

32,800 potential new diners.

Purga, 11 Nab. Reki Fontanki. Tel.: 3134123. Open daily, noon to 6 a.m. Dinner for two, with alcohol: 530 rubles ($16.83).

Credit cards “will be accepted soon.”

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A ttract

same sauce as the pork, it somehow seemed to work better. Purga’s main courses are not expensive, either, ranging from 90 to 250 rubles ($2.86 to $7.94) Our side dishes were excellent. The boiled potatoes in a typically Russian dressing — cream, dill and parsley — were a bargain at 20 rubles ($0.63), but the real highlight was the risotto: yellow rice with mushrooms, spices and sultanas. A far cry from the more typical, tasteless rice dish cooked in grease and flavored with more grease, it was a snip at 40 rubles ($1.27) We passed on dessert so, unfortunately, I can’t recommend or warn against anything in that department.

On the drinks side, beer starts at 40 rubles, there is a broad selection of wines, and a wide choice of absinthe for the really daring.

If Purga has one potential shortcoming, it could turn out to be its size and amount of seating space. Four weeks after opening, it was already proving difficult to get a table, so booking ahead is probably a good idea.

seemingly stylish places serve disappointing, tough slices of baton — but Purga’s assortment tasted as though it had just come out of the oven. One ryebased variety even contained sultanas, which made for a nice change.

The herring salad (90 rubles, $2.86) tasted good, and the little rabbitshaped — surprise! — creation on top was impressive. Purga’s soups range in price from 50 rubles ($1.59) to 90 rubles, and I, for one, enjoyed the ukha, or fish soup.

For mains, our server recommended both the “Five to Midnight” — the best fish dish on the menu — and the beef fillet in a pepper-andwhite-wine sauce.

Subsequently, however, she changed her mind, and said that both dishes would take too long to prepare and that we would be better off with the grilled pork steak in a cream-andmushroom sauce.

I appreciated such honesty, and thought that the pork dish (120 rubles, $3.81) was a decent alternative. It is flavored with honey, nuts and cream — a combination that tastes better than it might sound, and is also a theme in several of the main courses.

The chicken version, at 90 rubles, was the best — although in much the

Russian Restaurant

The best restaurant for worthy welcome for our city’s guests • Russian and European cuisine • Russian folk-style variety show

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friday, july 5, 2002

Major credit cards accepted.

91 Bolshoi Pr., V.O. Tel. 322-2111, Fax 322-4428 Open from noon to 11 p.m. except Monday.

European cuisine. Bar. Eurodance music.

New erotic dance show daily.

Beginning at 11 p.m.

5 Kanal Griboyedova. Daily, noon to 6 a.m. Free entrance for foreign guests.

vi

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friday, july 5, 2002

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the st. petersburg times

st. petersburg city guide

128 Leninsky Pr. 36/40 Sredny Pr. V.O.

Fine dining Restaurant

Count Suvorov

13

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A cozy restaurant with a view of the historic city center. A fashionable night club with different shows every day. Live music on Friday and Saturday.

An elegant casino with free bar for gamblers. $40,000 prize draw every month.

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8.

25.Rumyantsev Mansion. Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed Wednesday and the last Tuesday of each month. 44 Angliiskaya Nab. Tel.: 3147544.

26.Samoilov Dynasty Apartment Museum. Wednesday through Sunday, 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. 8 Stremyannaya Ul. Tel.: 164-1130.

27.Sheremetyev Palace. Wednesday through Friday, 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. 34 Nab. Reki Fontanki. Tel.: 272-4441.

28.Smolny Cathedral Exhibition Hall. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 3/1 Ploshchad Rastrelli. Tel.: 311-3690.

28.Smolny Historical Memorial Museum. Daily, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. by appointment, groups only. Friday 3 p.m. open to individual visitors. Closed Saturday, Sunday. 3 Pl. Proletarskoi Kultury. Tel.: 276-1461.

SPAS. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Sunday. 93 Nab. Reki Moiki. M: Sadovaya/Sennaya Ploshchad. Tel.: 3114260.

St. Petersburg Center for Modern Art. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 60 Nevsky Pr. M: Nevsky Pr./Gostinny Dvor. Tel.: 219-4737.

29.State Hermitage Museum. Daily, 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday 10:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Monday. 34 Dvortsovaya Nab. Tel.: 311-3465.

30.State Russian Museum. Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Tuesday. 4 Inzhenernaya Ul. Tel.: 219-1608.

Yelagin Palace Museum. Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 1 Yelaginsky Ostrov. M: Krestovsky Ostrov. Tel.: 430-0131.

31.Yelizarov Apartment Museum. Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Wednesday. 52/24 Ul. Lenina. Tel.: 235-3778.

1. Akimov Comedy Theater. 56 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 312-4555.

2. Alexandrinsky Theater. 2 Pl. Ostrovskogo.

Tel.: 110-4103.

3. Baltiisky Dom. 4 Alexandrovsky Park.

Tel.: 232-6244.

4. Bolshoi Drama Theater. 65 Nab. Fontanki.

Tel.: 310-0401.

Bolshoi Puppet Theater. 10 Nekrasova Ul. Tel.: 273-6672 Komissarzhevskaya Drama Theater.

19 Italianskaya Ul. Tel.: 315-5355.

Lensoviet Theater. 12 Vladimirsky Pr. Tel.: 113-2191.

Maly Drama Theater. 18 Ul. Rubinshteina. Tel.: 113-2028.

5. Mariinsky Theater. 1 Teatralnaya Pl. Tel.: 114-4344.

Molodyozhny Theater. 114 Nab. Fontanki. Tel.: 3166870.

6. Mussorgsky Theater. 1 Pl. Isskustv. Tel.: 219-1978.

Priyut Komedianta Theater. 27 Sadovaya Ul. Tel.: 311-3314.

Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory Theater.

3 Teatralnaya Pl. Tel.: 312-2519.

7. St. Petersburg Opera. 33 Galernaya Ul. Tel.: 315-6769.

8. State Hermitage Theater. 34 Dvortsovaya Nab. Tel.: 311-9025.

Theater Dozhdei. 130 Nab. Fontanki. No phone.

Theater on Liteiny. 51 Liteiny Pr. Tel.: 273-5335.

Vasilievsky Ostrov Theater of Satire. 48 Sredny Pr. Tel.: 213-6683.

9. Yusupovsky Palace. 92 Nab. Moiki. Tel.: 314-9883, 3156769.

Zazerkalye Theater. 13 Rubinshteina Ul. Tel.: 164-1895.

1. Children’s Philharmonic Hall.

1/3 Dumskaya Ul. Tel.: 219-4175.

2. Gigant Hall. 44 Kondratievsky Pr. Tel.: 5408130.

3. Glinka Philharmonic. 30 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 312-4585.

4. Jazz Philharmonic Hall. 27 Zagorodny Pr. Tel.: 164-8565.

Music Hall. 4 Alexandrovsky Park. Tel.: 232-6165.

Oktyabrsky Concert Hall. 6 Ligovsky Pr. Tel.: 2751273.

Shostakovich Philharmonic. 2 Mikhailovskaya Ul. Tel.: 311-7333.

Cappella. 20 Nab. Moiki. Tel.: 314-1058.

Yubileiny Sports Palace. 18 Pr. Dobrolyubova, M: Sportivnaya, Tel.: 119-5614.

halls

6 p.m. Closed Monday. Ploshchad Chernyshevskogo. M: Park Pobedy. Tel.: 298-3984.

19.Museum of the History of Religion. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Wednesday. 14/5 Pochtamtskaya Ul. Tel.: 314-5838.

20.Museum of the History of St. Petersburg. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 3 Petropavlovskaya Krepost. Tel.: 238-4540.

21.Museum of the Political History of Russia. Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday. 2/4 Ul. Kyubyshevskaya.

Tel.: 233-7052.

Museum of the Political History of Russia Annex.

Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 6 Admiralteiskaya Nab. M: Sadovaya/Sennaya Ploshchad. Tel.: 312-2742.

Museum of Theater and Musical Arts. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wednesday, 1 p.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Tuesday. 6 Pl. Ostrovskogo. M: Nevsky Prospect/Gostinny Dvor. Tel.: 310-1939.

22.Nabokov Apartment Museum. Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 47 Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. Tel.: 315-4713.

National Center Gallery. Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Closed Monday. 166 Nevsky Pr., M: Ploshchad Alexandra Nevskogo. Tel.: 277-1216.

23.Nikolai Nekrasov Apartment Museum. 36 Liteiny Prospect. Tel.: 272-0165.

Nota Bene Art Gallery. Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday. 5 Stremyannaya Ulitsa. M: Mayakovskaya. Tel.: 162-5992.

Printing Museum. Monday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 4. p.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Wednesday and the last Tuesday of each month. 32/2 Nab. Reki Moiki. M.: Nevsky Prospect/Gostinny Dvor. Tel.: 311-0270.

24.Pushkin Apartment Museum. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Tuesday. 12 Nab. Reki Moiki. Tel.: 312-1962.

theaters

1. Academy of Arts Museum. Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 17 Universitetskaya Nab. Tel.: 213-6496.

2. Alexander Blok Apartment Museum.

Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Wednesday.

57 Ul. Dekabristov. Tel.: 113-8633.

3. Anna Akhmatova Museum at the Fontanka House. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Monday and the last Wednesday of every month. 34 Nab. Reki Fontanki. Tel.: 2722211.

Art Collegium Gallery. Monday through Friday, 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. 64 Ligovsky Pr.. M: Ligovsky Prospect. Tel.: 164-9564.

Art Gorod Gallery. Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 47 Bolshoi Pr., Vasilievsky Island. Tel.: 327-7527.

Artists’ Union of Russia Exhibition Center. Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 38 Bolshaya Morskaya Ul. Tel.: 3143060.

Association of Free Artists Gallery at Nevsky 20.

Daily, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. 20 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 311-7777.

Borey Art Gallery. Tuesday through Saturday, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. 58 Liteiny Pr. M: Mayakovskaya/Ploshchad Vosstaniya. Tel.: 273-3693.

Bread Museum. Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 73 Ligovsky Pr. M: Ligovsky Prospect. Tel.: 164-1110.

Center of Photographic Arts. Friday and Saturday, 6 p.m. to 6 a.m. 38 Malaya Monetnaya Ul. M: Gorkovskaya.

Tel.: 232-3137.

Central Naval Museum. Wednesday through Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. 4 Birzhevaya Pl. Tel.: 218-2502.

Chaliapin Apartment Museum. Wednesday through

n i Fo Rek Sunday, 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed the last Friday of every month. 2B Ul. Graftio. Tel.: 234-1056.

9. Dostoevsky Museum. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Monday. 5 Kuznechny Per., Tel.: 311-4031.

10.Engineer’s (Mikhailovsky) Castle. 2 Sadovaya Ul. Tel.: 210-4173.

11.Ethnographic Museum. Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Monday. 4/1 Inzhenernaya Ul. Tel.: 210-4715.

12.Free Arts Foundation at Pushkinskaya 10. See Listings for opening times. 10 Pushinskaya Ul. (Entrance from 53 Ligovsky Pr.) Tel.: 164-5371.

13.Kirov Apartment Museum. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

26/28 Kamenoostrovsky Pr. Tel.: 346-0217.

14.Kunstkamera. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday.

3 Universitetskaya Nab. Tel.: 328-1412.

15.Manezh Central Exhibition Hall. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday. 1 St. Isaac’s Square. Tel.: 314-8859.

16.Marble Palace. Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 5/1 Millionaya Ul. Tel.: 312-9196.

Masters’ Guild Gallery. Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 82 Nevsky Pr. M: Mayakovskaya/Ploshchad Vosstaniya. Tel.: 279-0979.

17.Menshikov Palace. Daily, 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Closed Monday. 15 Universitetskaya Nab. Tel.: 323-1112.

18.Military Historical Museum of Artillery and Engineers. Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 7 Alexandrovsky Park. Tel.: 232-0296, 238-0704.

Mitki-VKhUTEMAS Gallery. Saturday, 4 p.m. to 8 p.m.

16 Ul. Pravdy. M: Dostoevskaya/Vladimirskaya. No telephone.

Moskovsky District Exhibition Hall. Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to

5.

6.

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8.

9.

cinemas

It's how people

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museums

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Mexican chefs • Our staff speak three languages Live folk music • Open from noon to 2 a.m.

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vii

Avrora. 60 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 315-5254.

Barrikada. 15 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 315-4028.

Crystal Palace. 72 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 272-2382.

Dom Kino. 12 Karavannaya Ul. Tel.: 314-8036.

Khudozhestveny. 67 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 314-0045.

Kolizei. 100 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 272-8775.

Leningrad. 4 Potemkinskaya Ul. Tel.: 272-6513.

Mirazh. 35 Bolshoi Pr. P.S.. Tel.: 232-4838.

Molodyozhny. 12 Sadovaya Ul. Tel.: 311-0045.

Parisiana. 80 Nevsky Pr. Tel.: 273-4813.

Rodina. 12 Karavannaya Ul. 311-6131.

Spartak. 8 Ul. Saltykova-Shchedrina Tel.: 272-7897.

Sport. 79 Bolshoi Sampsoniyevsky Pr. Tel.: 245-4522.

☎ BCL Payphones

Prepaid & Credit Card Payphones HOTELS

Astoria • Deson-Ladoga • Grand Hotel Europe • Hotel for Seamen • Karelia Business Hotel • LDM • Morskaya • Okhtinskaya • Oktiabrskaya • Olgino • Pribaltiiskaya • Radisson SAS • Rossia • Saint Petersburg Hotel • Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel • Sovetskaya • St. Petersburg International Hostel

RESTAURANTS AND BARS

Academia • Astoria club • Bahlsen • Cafe “Graf NN” (Corner of Marata & Razjezhaya st.) • California Grill • Chaika • Hollywood Nites • Le Francaise • Liverpool • Mollie’s • Nevsky 40 • Patio-

CARDS WELCOME

Pizza • Pizza Hut • Restoran’ • Sadko’s • Seamen Club • Shanhai • Shamrock

MUSEUMS & THEATERS

State Russian Museum • State Hermitage • Peter&Paul Fortress • Menshikov Palace • Mariinsky State Opera&Ballet Theatre • Maly Opera Theatre PULKOVO airport • Central Airline Tickets Agency • Central Railway Tickets Agency • Glavpochtamt

SOUVENIR SHOPS:

Neva-art (54 Angliyskaya Emb.)

• Pevcheskiy Most (20 Moika Emb.) • “Captain” (19, Konushennaya st.)

SPORTS CENTRES: Ubileyniy

STREETS:

Nevsky 34 • Nevsky 42 • Bolshaya Morskaya 12 • Malaya Sadovaya 3, 6 • Malaya Konushennaya 9, 10

PIERS:

Kronshtadt, fort “Konstantin” • Angliyskaya Embankment • Leutenant Schmidt Embankment • Sea Port, Pier 32

When sightseeing in St. Petersburg Use a BCL payphone to call home!

friday, july 5, 2002

v

modernist drama. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe Miss Julie Igor Nikolayev, a regular on the MDT stage, directs a version of August Strindberg’s controversial play, about an illicit relationship between the mischievous daughter of an aristocrat and a lower-class man. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe, Chamber Stage, 7:30 p.m.

Oh, What a Beautiful Game That Was! Rudolf Furman’s tribute to actors, stage designers, directors and everyone else involved with what he sees as the most transitory art form — the theater. Mironov Theater

friday, july 12 ballet

Swan Lake The St. Petersburg Theater of Classical Ballet performs Tchaikovsky’s evergreen classic. Alexandriinsky Theater, 7:30 p.m.

La Sylphide Marius Petipa’s staging of Auguste Bournonville’s 19th-century Romantic ballet about a young Scot who falls in love with a beautiful sylph on the eve of his wedding. Mariinsky Theater Swan Lake Tchaikovsky’s signature ballet choreographed by Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov. Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory Theater, 8 p.m.

concert

Nota Bene Ancient-Music Ensemble A program including works by Luigi Boccherini and Haydn. Capella, 5 p.m.

Mozart’s “Requiem” A choir and orchestra from the Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory performs Mozart’s unfinished masterpiece.

Capella

theater

Biloxi Blues The story of a young man training for WWII at a boot camp in Mississippi, and learning on the way about real life, enduring relentless abuse from a drill sergeant and losing his virginity to a prostitute. Alexander Isakov directs.

Baltiisky Dom Restoranchik ... Restoranchik ... Cabaret Play Igor Konyayev directs a freestyle songand-dance interpretation of works by Chekhov, Mikhail Zoshchenko, Arkady Averchenko and Mayakovsky. Maly Drama Theater — Theater of Europe, Chamber Stage, 7:30 p.m.

Oh, What a Beautiful Game That Was! Rudolf Furman’s tribute to actors, stage designers, directors and everyone else involved with what he sees as the most transitory art form — the theater. Mironov Theater The Academy of Laughs Koki Mitani’s play about the problems of a playwright who has written a parody of “Romeo and Juliet,” but has to remove everything that appears to be funny to get it past the censor. Vasilievsky Ostrov Theater of Satire Tyotya Motya Olga Nikiforova’s comedy about a congenial love triangle, as directed by

the st. petersburg times

where tradition meets modernity

by Andrei Vorobei SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

St. Petersburg’s traditional — and traditionally poorly attended — museums will be getting a modern twist until the end of July.

The third “Contemporary Art in a Traditional Museum,” which kicks off on Saturday, is organized jointly by the Pro Arte Institute, the Open Society Institute, the Museum of the History of St. Petersburg and the city administration’s Culture Committee.

The ideas behind the festival vary, benefitting both the artists and the museums. The festival brings together traditional culture and modern art, and gives artists — both unknown and established — a chance to exhibit their current work in a higher-profile setting.

It also provides a financial helping hand for modernizing the city’s smaller, less popular museums, whose own, less well-known collections are seen by new visitors attending the festival.

According to Nikita Tolstoi, the festival’s director, the artists in the festival are chosen from a competition carried out by the Pro Arte Institute in the autumn. Final decisions are made in January, allowing the selected artists five months to prepare for the show.

The festival’s previous two runnings attracted wide attention, due to projects such as “Approach,” by St. Petersburg avant-garde director Yevgeny Yufit and artist Vladimir Kustov; Mikhail Karasik’s “Dembilsky Album: Between Subculture and an Artist’s Book;” Georgy Ostretsov’s “Ice Eden;” and “Eloise and Abelaire, or the Five Feats of a Submarine,” by Natalya Pershina-Yakimanskaya and Olga Yegorova, all of which were highly successful in 2001.

According to Tolstoi, the attention paid to the festival, by artists, museums and the public, is growing fast. This year’s running has thirteen exhibitions,

by Russian and non-Russian artists, at twelve different museums.

The Nabokov Apartment Museum (11 on the map) is the only participating museum to host two projects. St. Petersburg artists Andrei Chezhin and Dmitry Mishenin have their tongues firmly in their cheeks with their exhibit, Vladimir Tumanov. Vasilievsky Ostrov Theater of Satire, Small Stage, 6:30 p.m.

gigs

friday, june 5

rock, etc.

Izolenta Band Rock band from Chelyabinsk.

City Club. 8:30 p.m.

Ronin Beat Electric funk. City Club. 1 a.m.

Billy’s Band Tom Waits covers, original material. Fish Fabrique. 11 p.m.

2 Kapitana Funkcore. Griboyedov. 10 p.m.

Dobranoch Folk rock. Moloko. 7 p.m.

The Rattlesnakes Rockabilly. Money Honey.

8 p.m.

The Big Livers Rockabilly. Money Honey.

12:30 a.m.

“A Demonstration of the Nonsunburned Parts of the Human Body,” calling it “a memory of a psychedelicsocialist childhood.”

The exhibition transforms part of the museum into a beach, and promises bikini-clad young women to welcome visitors. It includes 10 photo-fragments of the human body, and ten audio snippets from a young woman monologising on the beach, touching upon, among other things, religion, hedonism, literature and passive protesting.

The other exhibition is “Never Odd or Even,” by New York artist Barbara Blum, which deals with questions of consumerism, information and reality through installations and other media.

Russia and the West also meet at the Arctic and Antarctic Museum (8), in a collaboration between Paris-based artist Olga Kiselyova and students from the Pro Arte Institute. “Pro Pole” is an interactive multimedia project that aims to make a “virtual continuation of a material reality” — the museum’s permanent collection — by creating virtual versions of the Polar Lights, the Pole Star, a symbolic “Axis of the World,” and the “digital body” of the radio operator Ernst Krenkel, a member of Ivan Papanin’s 1937 expedition manning the first drifting station at the North Pole, who will apparently communicate with visitors via a chatroom.

St. Petersburg artists are also represented at three other museums. At the Professor Popov Memorial Museum (3), Yegor Ostrov’s “Professor Popov’s Visions” aims to demonstrate the surprising results of a synthesis of science and art. Meanwhile, at the Museum of the Political History of Russia (6), is Leonid Rusnak’s “Extrapolation,” which he describes as a “hallucination of the computer” that is used for political forcasting. Finally, the “Musorshiki” art collective’s “New Archeology,” a project based on taking a special attitude to dust, will be at the Alexandriinsky Theater Museum (7).

Four Moscow artists are also taking part. At the Kunstkammer (1), German Vinogradov’s “Bicaponia of a Heavenly Forest” will look at elements of mythology in modern, post-industrial culture.

The Rumyantsev Mansion (12) hosts “The Story of A.K.,” a story of love, madness, life and death, by Alexander Razniye Lyudi/Delirium Rock. Orlandina.

7 p.m.

The Propellers Rockabilly. Psycho Pub. 8 p.m.

La Minor Urban folk. Red Club (Second Stage). 8 p.m.

Kacheli Ska punk. Red Club (Main Stage).

Midnight

jazz & blues

Olga Khilko Jazz vocal night. (812) Jazz Club.

9 p.m.

From Avant-Garde to Modern Alexei Degusarov Band. Jazz Philharmonic Hall.

7 p.m.

Ilya Lushtak and Friends Guitar jazz night.

JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Forrest Gump Blues. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club.

8 p.m.

Natalya Tashchiyan Mainstream. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Olga Ponomaryova Jazz songs. Palitra Art Cafe. 9 p.m.

Black Magic Electric blues. Sunduk Art Cafe.

8:30 p.m.

FOR SPT

continued from page

festival

viii

The exhibitions are taking place at locations across the city center.

Rakstein and Vera Khlebnikova. Yelena Kovilina’s “‘Red House’ Committee,” meanwhile, focuses on charity, and will be at the Museum of the RevolutionaryDemocratic Movement (10).

The color red also forms the theme of Kaliningrad artist Yury Vasiliev’s “Russian Red,” at the Kuindzhi Apartment Museum (2). It looks at of the most pervasive of modern stereotypes: “the totality of the color red in 20thcentury Russian history.”

The Kirov Museum (4) hosts two Siberian artists, Novosibirsk’s Vyacheslav Mizin and Yekaterinburg’s Alexander Shaburov, whose project, “A Museum Serial,” takes the form of a television serial, with elements of a detective story.

The Museum of the Scientific Research Institute of Experimental Medicine (5) will house the tongue-

pop

Splean/Zapreshchenniye Barabanshchiki Pop/rock. Gigant Hall, 44 Kondratyevsky Pr. M: Pl. Lenina. Tel.: 540-8130. 9 p.m.

party mix

DJs Pugo, Udjin and Andrei Satin House.

Griboyedov. Midnight.

Silver Bullet Party Par.spb. 11 p.m.

saturday, july 6 rock, etc.

Kamikaze Pop/rock. City Club. 8:30 p.m.

Brazilia Pop/rock. City Club. 1 a.m.

Chirvontsy Folk punk. Fish Fabrique.

11 p.m.

Tsunami Pop/rock. Griboyedov. 10 p.m.

Jane Air Hardcore. Moloko. 7 p.m.

The Cadillacs Rockabilly. Money Honey.

8 p.m.

The Hoox Rockabilly, jive. Money Honey.

12:30 a.m.

Dai Pistolet!/Project Olimpiisky Alternative.

Orlandina. 7 p.m.

Shvedsky Stol Odinoky Lyotchik, Kniusen, BKhL, Vo De Vill, Verbno Utro, Gulyaem!, Za-chem?, Ostrolist, Kabriolet Lesnichego, Ch.Ch., Klyuch, Bubentsy, Slon v Temnote, Moyo Zelyonoye Sontse. Rock, folk rock. Psycho Pub. 6 p.m.

Dobranoch Folk rock. Red Club (Second Stage). 8 p.m.

NOM Rock. Red Club (Main Stage). Midnight.

U-Piter Ex-Nautilius Pompilius Slava Butusov's new band featuring ex-Kino Yury Kasparyan and ex-Akvarium Oleg Sakmarov.

Rock. Ruslan Cinema, Pushkin, 42 Magazeinaya Ulitsa. Tel.: 470-0311. 7 p.m.

jazz & blues

Jennifer Davis Jazz vocal night. (812) Jazz Club. 9 p.m.

Leningrad Dixieland Band. “Jazz Dancing.”

Jazz Philharmonic Hall. 7 p.m.

twistingly titled “Technogenesis: Chromophase,” by Yevgeny Strelkov, of Nizhny Novgorod. For the project, Strelkov took photos of the river ports of his home town and of Duisburg, Germany, and turned them into a collection of “fantastic insects.”

Finally, Kaliningrad artist Dmitry Bulatov’s “Chaotization of Space: Museum of a Linguo-Acoustic Environment” will take up residence in the Dostoevsky Museum (9). The exhibition takes the form of an audio-visual installation, and is aimed at acquainting visitors with the little-known phenomenon of international sound-poetry.

“Contemporary Art in a Traditional Museum” runs from July 6 to July 31. A free shuttle service between the museums will run this Saturday and Sunday.

Links: www.proarte.ru Dmitry Maloletov Guitar jazz night. JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Tanya Tolstova and Jazz Comfort Vocal jazz night. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club. 8 p.m.

Tanya Gromova and Cool Blues Quartet Jazz standards. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Splash Point Blues. Palitra Art Cafe. 9 p.m.

Vadim Lebedev and Alexei Lyapko Jazz, Braziliana. Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

pop

Diskoteka Avaria Hollywood Nites. 1 a.m.

party mix

DJs Demidov, Raf and Banderas Deep house. Griboyedov. Midnight.

STEREOLETO FESTIVAL: SushiDisco JapaNight, Summer 2002. Fantastic Plastic Machine (Japan), DJs Gleb 9 (Moscow), Kurilsky (St. Petersburg), Oxido fashion show. Molodyozhny Theater. 114 Nab. Fontanki. M: Tekhologichesky Institut. Tel. 316-6870. 11 p.m.

Diskoteka Avariya An open-air concert and DJ sets. Kirov Stadium, 1 Morskoi Pr. M.: Krestovsky Ostrov. Tel.: 235-5452. 1 p.m.

Platinum Disco DJs Kfear, Strong, Lovesky, Oleg Pak. House. Par.spb. 11 p.m.

sunday, july 7 rock, etc.

Shoobie Doobie Swing, jive. City Club. 8:30 p.m.

Elektroskat Rock. Front. 8:30 p.m.

Bubentsy Soft rock. Griboyedov. 10 p.m.

BER-LINN Pop punk. Moloko. 7 p.m.

The Propellers Rockabilly. Money Honey.

8 p.m.

The Barbulators Rockabilly. Money Honey.

11:45 p.m.

Klever/Veresk/Izolenta Band Ethno rock, folk rock, punk. Orlandina. 7 p.m.

Oen Redish Rock. Psycho Pub. 8 p.m.

the st. petersburg times

Solid Soul Soul, funk. (812) Jazz Club. 9 p.m.

Alexander Gureyev Band Blues. Jazz Philharmonic Hall. 7 p.m.

Ars Nova Jazz classics. JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Doo Bop Sound Acid jazz, funk. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club. 8 p.m.

Angel Dust Band Fusion. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Blues Session Palitra Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

Tanya Gromova and Jazz Duo Mainstream.

Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

party mix

Boogie Nights DJ Kikabit-Z and guests.

Jazzy and Latin grooves. Griboyedov. Midnight.

Sunday Lounge — Naked Lounge DJ Chak, Sahaj, Korablyov. Par.spb. 11 p.m.

monday, july 8 rock, etc.

The Hoox Rockabilly, jive. Money Honey. 8 p.m.

Brigadny Podryad Pop punk, folk punk.

Orlandina. 7 p.m.

jazz & blues

Sergei Khilko St. Petersburg Jazz Band Mainstream. (812) Jazz Club. 9 p.m.

Big Blues Revival Blues. JFC Jazz Club.

7 p.m.

The Way Blues. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club.

8 p.m.

Nikolai Sizov Band/Jam Session Mainstream. Kvadrat Jazz Club. 8 p.m. ldar Kazakhanov and Mikhail “Uncle Misha” Chernov Jazz standards. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Alexei Lyapko Pop jazz. Palitra Art Cafe. 9 p.m.

Leonid Vasilyev Quartet Retro instrumentals.

Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

party mix

Ground Level DJs Maxim Kislovsky, Sputnik and guests. Deep house and techno.

Griboyedov. 11 p.m.

tuesday, june 9 rock, etc.

Proiskhozhdeniye Vidov Rock. Fish Fabrique.

11 p.m.

Annie Fire and the Phantoms Rockabilly.

Money Honey. 8:30 p.m.

Doggy Doggy Rockabilly. Money Honey.

12:30 p.m.

Dudubeat/Asia and Ali Electronica, world music. Orlandina. 7 p.m.

jazz & blues

Ru-2 Improv. (812) Jazz Club. 9 p.m.

Alexei Popov (saxophone) with Four and More Mainstream. Jazz Philharmonic Hall (Ellington Hall). 8 p.m.

Three Musical Trumpets Contemporary jazz.

JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Ines & S.B.A. Blues. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club.

8 p.m.

Oleg Grebennikov Duo Jazz standards. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Vadim Lebedev and Friends Jazz, Braziliana.

Palitra Art Cafe. 9 p.m.

Yury Silkin & Co. Jazz standards, blues.

Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

party mix

Dub and Reggae Roots DJs Dym Selector, Rasklad and Sunshine. Griboyedov. 11 p.m.

Andy Fletcher Birthday Party Local Depeche Mode fan club celebrates one of its idols. Friday. 5 p.m.

wednesday, july 10 rock, etc.

Nikhau Rock. Fish Fabrique. 11 p.m.

Solar Project Nu jazz. Griboyedov. 10 p.m.

Hasta La Vista Che/PTVP Punk. Moloko.

7 p.m.

The Rattlesnakes Rockabilly. Money Honey.

8 p.m.

The Shatters Rockabilly. Money Honey.

11:45 p.m.

Otets Vasily and the Kurtens Russian-rock band from Sweden. Orlandina. 7 p.m.

Menestrel Pop punk. Psycho Pub. 8 p.m.

jazz & blues

Jazz Organ Band David Goloshchokin Band with Elvira Trafova (vocals). Jazz Philharmonic Hall. 7 p.m.

Sergei Gusyatinsky Big Band Jazz and salsa. JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Valery & Ex3 Blues. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club.

8 p.m.

Alexei Lyapko Pop jazz. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Leonid Vasilyev Quartet Retro instrumentals.

Palitra Art Cafe. 9 p.m.

Ildar Kazakhanov and Mikhail “Uncle Misha” Chernov Jazz standards. Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

gatchina a great getaway

by Vivien Schweitzer SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

With the summer solstice having passed over a week ago, the steady tide of tourists flocking to St. Petersburg is beginning to abate.

Trains, planes and automobiles, which were full just a week ago, now have at least a little room to spare. Nevertheless, if you’re still keen to get out of St. Petersburg and avoid the tourist hordes, the village of Gatchina, one of the city’s lesserknown historical suburban estates, icould be ideal.

Only 45 minutes from St. Petersburg, and devoid of the tour buses and groups of noisy schoolchildren that are everywhere in the more well-known tourist destinations like Peterhof and Tsarskoe Selo, Gatchina is equally impressive.

The fact that Gatchina isn’t as popular a stop on the St. Petersburg palace circuit means that you will be able to enjoy its 18th-century palace and delightful grounds — among the most rambling and least clipped of Russian palace parks — in peace.

In 1765, Catherine the Great presented the village to her lover, Prince Grigory Orlov, who commissioned the Italian architect Antonio Rinaldi to build a neo-Classical palace. Work began on the palace in 1766. Its walls were constructed with slabs of local limestone, which, under bright sunshine appear golden. Because Rinaldi studied in England and was an admirer of English architecture, the Gatchina palace has the feel of a medieval British castle, and its austere facade is spartan in contrast to the ornate exterior of the palace at Tsarskoe Selo.

The Gatchina palace was completed in 1781, and when Orlov died two years later, Catherine transferred the estate to her son and heir, Paul I, who asked his favorite architect, Vincenzo Brenna, to refashion the palace to accommodate his military tastes. Brenna’s alterations included the construction of an additional floor and a moat with a drawbridge.

Tsars Nicholas I and Alexander II visited Gatchina — where they hunted and entertained guests — on occasion, but Alexander III was the next Romanov to spend any considerable time at the estate, making it his permanent family residence in the late 19th century. The imperial family led a secluded existence here, and, following the custom of Western European nobility of the period, preferred the intimacy of the smaller, less ostentatious living quarters to the grandeur of the

VIVIEN SCHWEITZER/FOR SPT

jazz & blues

ix

travel

The Barbulators Rockabilly. Red Club (Second Stage). 8 p.m.

friday, july 5, 2002

Catherine II gave Gatchina as a present to her lover, Prince Grigory Orlov, who built this palace there.

state rooms. This preference often surprised noble visitors, including Prince Vladimir Meshchersky, who once commented after entering the tsar’s study that “it seemed to me I was in the room of a modest yet well-kept home of a man of an average position and means.”

Gatchina provided Alexander III with a safe haven from the social unrest threatening the country’s nearby capital. The estate was guarded by several varied regiments of soldiers, Cossacks and police officers, a fact that led the tsar’s contemporaries to note that the scores of armed men lent the palace the air of a defended castle.

Gatchina also played an important role in the Russian revolution, when, in October 1917 after the Bolsheviks seized power, Alexander Kerensky, the flamboyant leader of the Provisional Government, fled to Gatchina, where he made a final attempt to rally his troops.

Adding to the palace’s fortress effect is its secret underground passage — Kerensky used it that year to escape Bolshevik troops, after deserting his own forces. Not long afterward, the palace at Gatchina was turned into a museum.

After World War II, during which the palace and its furnishings were badly damaged, Gatchina was used as a military academy until 1985, at which time it

party mix

party mix

thursday, july 11

friday, june 12

rock, etc.

rock, etc.

DJs Redisco and Mono Rare disco, soul, beat, U.S.S.R. retro. Griboyedov.

Midnight.

New New acts. City Club. 8:30 p.m.

Xerox 667 Fish Fabrique. 11 p.m.

Kiparis/F. Noise Indie rock, noise, hardcore.

Moloko. 7 p.m.

The Barbulators Rockabilly. Money Honey.

8 p.m.

Doggy Doggy Rockabilly. Money Honey.

11:45 p.m.

Armadil/Qabbalah Hard and heavy. Psycho Pub. 8 p.m.

More & Relsy/Skafandr/F-Noise Alternative. Orlandina. 7 p.m.

Billy’s Band Tom Waits covers, original material. Red Club (Second Stage).

8 p.m.

jazz & blues

Mikhail Kostyushkin and His Band Jazz Philharmonic Hall (Ellington Hall).

8 p.m.

Central Jazz Quintet Mainstream. JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Lucky Sharks Rockabilly. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club. 8 p.m.

Yuliya Khudyakova Jazz. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Black Magic Electric blues. Palitra Art Cafe.

9 p.m.

Yury Slavtsov, Jerry Kim and Friends Pop flamenco. Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

was again opened to the public as a museum. Although many of the palace’s rooms are still being restored, the Marble Dining Room, Paul I’s bedroom at the top of one of the towers and the White Ballroom are all open to visitors.

In addition to the palace, Gatchina is also home to several beautiful parks on the former grounds of the estate.

Unlike the well-manicured gardens of Peterhof or Tsarskoe Selo, however, these are untamed, dotted with wildflowers and the ruins of pavilions, gates and bridges. Because water had a vital position in 18th-century garden design, one of the distinguishing features of the parks is their abundance of lakes, ponds and canals, both real and manmade.

On the secluded Island of Love in the White Lake in the Silvia Park, is the Venus Pavilion, built circa 1796, which boasts marble fountains and carved ceiling of angels and cherubs. The lake is safe for swimming and boats are available for rental through August.

Near the Temple of Venus is the Birch House (1790s). Though, at first glance, it appears to be nothing more than a pile of logs, its modest exterior actually conceals a suite of exquisite rooms, each painstakingly rebuilt after their destruction in World War II. On

the shores of the nearby Black Lake is the Prioratsky Palace (1798), which Paul I used as a base while hunting.

Where to stay. Lodging in Gatchina is limited. One option is the Hotel Gatchina (77 Ulitsa Chkalova. Tel.: 7111458), where double rooms start at 240 rubles ($7.62) a night. Another option is the Akedemicheskaya Hotel (12 Ulitsa Krupskoi. Tel.: 713-5660/35700/35611), which proudly upholds an irritating Soviet-era dual-pricing system. Doubles for Russian and CIS citizens start at 126 rubles ($4.00) a night, while doubles for foreigners start at 228 rubles ($7.24).

Where to eat. Gatchina is not a gourmand’s paradise, but the Gatchina Restaurant (next door to the hotel of the same name) serves basic, inexpensive Russian and European fare. There are also numerous small cafes all over town.

How to get there. To get to Gatchina, take the commuter train from the Baltiisky Station to the Gatchina-Baltiiskaya stop, about a 45-minute ride. The Palace is a five-minute walk from the station.

What to explore. Gatchina’s parks are open every day. The palace is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday (with the exception of the first Tuesday of every month), but the ticket windows close at 5 p.m.

Goa Trance Party DJs Samadkhi, Mist and Orange. Griboyedov. 11 p.m.

It’s My House DJ Primat. Par.spb. 11 p.m.

ReggiStan Reggae. City Club. 8:30 p.m.

Besheniye Ogurtsy Ska punk. City Club. 1 a.m.

S.O.K. Reggae. Fish Fabrique. 11 p.m.

Klever/IDDI Art rock. Moloko. 7 p.m.

The Jets Rockabilly. Money Honey. 8 p.m.

The Big Livers Rockabilly. Money Honey.

12:30 a.m.

AeroPlan/UrboNegativObyekt Rock.

Orlandina. 7 p.m.

Dr. Faust and Krokodily/Kveks Rhythm and blues, rock. Psycho Pub. 8 p.m.

S.O.K. Reggae. Red Club (Second Stage). 8 p.m.

Kirpichi Alternative. Red Club (Main Stage). Midnight PODOGREV/WARMING UP FESTIVAL: Leningrad, Tequilajazzz, Spitfire and 5 Uglov. Ska punk, alternative, hardcore. Yubileiny Sports Palace (Small Arena), 18 Pr. Dobrolyubova. M: Sportivnaya.

Tel.: 119-5614. 7 p.m.

jazz & blues

Natalya Tashchiyan Jazz vocal night. (812) Jazz Club. 9 p.m.

The Way Blues. Jazz & Phrenia. 8 p.m.

WHITE NIGHT’S SWING: The Ninth International Jazz Festival. Opening. Jamie Cullum (U.K.), Alexander Ryabov Quartet

GENUINE RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY IN THE EUROPEAN RESTAURANT PLAZA

friday, july 5, 2002

(Estonia), Skhid Side Quintet (Ukraine), Sergei Grigoryev Trio. Jazz Philh armonic Hall. 7 p.m.

Doo Bop Sound Acid jazz, funk. JFC Jazz Club. 7 p.m.

Mister Fix Pop. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club. 8 p.m.

The Way Blues. Neo Jazz Club. 8 p.m.

Forrest Gump Blues. Palitra Art Cafe. 9 p.m.

Olga Ponomaryova Jazz songs. Sunduk Art Cafe. 8:30 p.m.

pop

Russky Razmer Aquatoria. 1 a.m.

Sergei Penkin Hollywood Nites. 1 p.m.

Irina Saltykova Bada Boom, 113a Pr. Engelsa.

M.: Ozerki. Tel.: 510-0911. 1 a.m.

Chai Vdvoyom Gigant Hall, 44 Kondratyevsky Pr. M: Pl. Lenina. Tel.: 540-8130. 9 p.m.

Pilotage Disco. Plaza. 1 a.m.

party mix

DJs Andrei Vertov and Electrodrug House, pop hits. Griboyedov. 11 p.m.

Like the Last Time DJs Lovesky, Pushkin (Moscow), Raf, Sahaj and Masalsky; live act: Swanky Tunes. Par.spb. 11 p.m.

exhibits

Academy of Arts Museum Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Permanent Collection Paintings and drawings from the 18th century to the present day by past and present academy members and graduates.

Alexander Blok Apartment Museum Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Wednesday. 57 Ul. Dekabristov. M: Sennaya Ploshchad. Tel.: 1138633.

Permanent Collection Blok lived in the apartment for 10 years, and it is now one of the few apartment-museums in St. Petersburg that has been preserved exactly as it was when the writer lived there. It includes exhibits that describe Blok’s everyday life — books, furniture, pictures and so on — as well as his creative work.

Anna Akhmatova Museum at the Fontanka House Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Monday and the last Wednesday of every month.

Permanent Collection Exhibits about Akhmatova’s life and work.

Paintings and Drawings From the 1910s to the 1930s From the collections of the Vologodskaya Gallery and the Russian North Gallery in Archangelsk. Through July 18.

Art Gorod Gallery Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Everything Must Go An exhibition-cum-sale of works by St. Petersburg artists and sculptors. Paintings, decorative objects and sculptures. Through July 21.

Association of Free Artists Gallery at Nevsky 20 Daily, noon to 8 p.m.

Sergey Mikhankov An exhibition of contemporary avant-garde paintings. Through July 14.

Borey Art Gallery Daily, noon to 8 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Painting on Paper An exhibition by Oleg Chernov. Through July 13.

Kolya Kopeisky and Vadim Kozin Paintings.

Through July 13.

Central Naval Museum Wednesday through Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Permanent Collection The exhibitions “The Russian Orthodox and the Navy,” and “The Youth of the Baltic Fleet,” plus more than 650,000 historical objects and works of art about the navy, and about 2,000 models of both Russian and foreign ships.

Sergei Pen An exhibition marking the 50th birthday of Sergei Pen, the head of the Mariners’ Art Studio. Through July 19.

Pavel Nakhimov An exhibition commemorating the 200th anniversary of Nakhimov’s birth. Documents, paintings, drawings, models and banners. Through July 27.

Dostoevsky Museum Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Monday. 5 Kuznechny Per., M: Vladimirskaya/Dostoevskaya. Tel.: 311-4031.

Permanent Collection A permanent memorial to the writer, including sections dedicated to his personal and professional biographies, plus an exhibition of models for plays based on Dostoevsky’s novels “The Gambler,” “The Idiot,” “Demons” and “The House of the Dead.”

Ethnographic Museum Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Monday.

Permanent Collection Exhibitions of artifacts and anthropological bric-a-brac from every corner of the former Soviet Union, including

the st. petersburg times

how to make a debut

by Michiko Kakutani NEW YORK TIMES SERVICE

The “Russian debutante’’ in Gary Shteyngart’s very funny, very deft first novel is one Vladimir Girshkin, a feckless 25-year-old Russian-American who works as a junior clerk at an immigrant-assistance agency in Manhattan. He’s what Kingsley Amis’ Lucky Jim would be, if he were a Russian emigre trying to cope with the confusions of life in America of the 1990s and the incessant demands of an ambitious and endlessly aggrieved mother.

Vladimir is an engaging enough fellow, but he’s also a shameless opportunist and self-loathing nerd: envious of those more attractive and successful than he is, self-conscious about his imperfect command of Western manners and mores, and eager to buy himself a portion of the “American Dream” at any cost.

In “The Russian Debutante’s Handbook,’’ Shteyngart tells the uproarious and highly entertaining story of how Vladimir journeys from St. Petersburg, Russia, to Scarsdale, New York, and back to Eastern Europe, and how he becomes in the interim a kingpin in the Russian mafia. But at the same time, the author — who, like his hero, was born in what was then Leningrad and moved to the United States as a boy — also uses Vladimir’s picaresque adventures to satirize Americans’ and Russians’ preconceptions about their former Cold War enemies and to send up their illusions about themselves.

Like Salman Rushdie and Bharati Mukherjee, Shteyngart uses his appraising outsider’s eye to examine the bizarre, weightless state of exile (its conferring of freedom, but also rootlessness and dislocation); and like Victor Pelevin, he proves himself a nimble cultural magpie, borrowing street argot from both the East and West to create a wonderfully idiomatic, jet-fueled prose.

His voice, however, is thoroughly his own, by turns ironic and earnest, farcical and melancholy, as attuned to the exhilarating possibilities of the English language as Martin Amis, as deadpan funny as the young Evelyn Waugh.

Vladimir, Shteyngart writes, was the

boo k s

x

“The Caucasus” and “Peoples of Siberia and the Far East.”

Copper Kingdom More than 200 copper objects from the collection of St. Petersburg collector Vladimir Zhukov. Tools, bowls, church items, decorations, coins and picture frames, dating from the 15th to the 20th century.

Through September.

Free Arts Foundation at Pushkinskaya 10 Museum of Nonconformist Art and Art Poligon, Tuesday through Saturday, 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.; New Academy Museum, Saturday, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.; Navicula Artis, Daily, 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Gallery 21 Techno-Art Center, Tuesday through Saturday, 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Bridge Over the Styx Gallery, Saturday 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. The John Lennon Rock n’ Roll Temple, Friday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Temple celebrations by invitation only. Tel.: 164-5353.

Kino-Phot-Media film showings as advertised.

Stairs An installation by Lyudmila Belova.

Navicula Artis Gallery. Through July 7.

German Cultural Center Tuesday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. 5 Isaakievskaya Ploshchad. M: Sadovaya/Sennaya Ploshchad. Tel.: 314-4034 We Are Here … An exhibition of photographs

by Edward Serotta. Through July 20.

Ink Club Gallery Daily, noon to 7 p.m. Closed Monday. 79 8-aya Liniya, Vasilievsky Island. M: Vasileostrovskaya. Tel.: 323-5620.

For Laughter’s Sake Primitivist art by Maria and Filipp Kazak. Through July 21 Kirov Apartment Museum Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 26/28 Kamenoostrovsky Pr. Tel.: 346-0217 Permanent Collection Memorabilia about Leningrad in the 1920s and 1930s, when Sergei Kirov was Communist Party boss in the city, and artifacts related to his assassination in 1934, including the cap he was wearing at the time. In addition, “To Our Happy Childhood,” an exhibition about growing up in the “good old days.”

“enduring victim of every practical joke the late 20th century had to offer.’’ This “coddled single child’’ of parents who had left Russia for the wilds of Westchester County, New York, and who had “paid $25,000 a year to send him to a progressive Midwestern college’’ will journey through the hip provinces of downtown Manhattan and, on the run from money problems and an amorous member of the Catalan cartel, will wind up in a small Eastern European country, in the employ of a gangster known as the Groundhog.

Raised in Russia, schooled in America, Vladimir is a knowledgeable but itchy outsider wherever he goes.

“Vladimir was 50 percent functional American, and 50 percent cultured Eastern European in need of a haircut and a bath,’’ Shteyngart writes. “He was the best of both worlds. Historically, a little dangerous, but, for the most part, nicely tamed by Coca-Cola’’ and “blue-light specials.’’

In New York, college Marxists and politically correct liberals adopt Vladimir as their pet, and he soon becomes an avatar of “Immigrant Chic,’’ embraced by his girlfriend Francesca’s parents and courted by her Slavophile friend Frank, who says things like, “Don’t forget that Vladimir has an expansive Russian soul,’’ and “Camaraderie and salvation, that’s his game.’’

In Eastern Europe, where he is reKunstkamera Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday.

Permanent Collection The collection of the Kunstkamera, the oldest museum in Russia, features sundry items belonging to Peter the Great and the Lomonosov Science Museum.

Also on display are the exhibitions “Amazon Indians,” about South American tribes; “Toys of the Peoples of the World,” a collection of playthings from around the globe; “Bronze in a Japanese House,” consisting of sculptures from 19th and 20th-century collections; and the infamous “Anatomical Rarities,” Peter’s collection of physiological freaks, pickled and floating in jars — definitely not for the squeamish.

Manezh Central Exhibition Hall Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday.

Anniversary Exhibition An exhibition to mark the anniversary of the St. Petersburg Artists Union. More than 1,000 paintings and drawings by Petersburg artists. Through August 4.

Masters’ Guild Gallery Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Ah Yes, Pushkin Paintings on cloth in a contemporary naive style by Ivan Shaimardanov, focusing on Pushkin and the heroes from his works. Through July 8 Viktor Apufriyev Paintings. July 10 through August 10 Military Historical Museum of Artillery and Engineers Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Permanent Collection This museum was established in 1703 by Peter the Great and documents the military history of Russia since that time. The permanent collection includes early Russian cannons, plus war trophies and memorabilia.

Moskovsky District Exhibition Hall Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday, Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Monday.

garded as an expert on America, Vladimir sets about giving the Groundhog’s troops “American lessons,’’ goading his students to rid themselves of their kitschiest possessions: “the nylon track suits, the Rod Stewart compilations, the worn Romanian sneakers, everything that had qualified the Groundhog’s vast crew as Easterners, Soviets, Cold War losers.’’

To Vladimir, “Americans were too keen to invent their own troubles,’’ Shteyngart writes. “To paraphrase an old Russian expression, they were wild with their own fat.’’ As for Russians like the Groundhog, Vladimir sees them as history’s casualties: “Everything they grew up with is gone. So what are their options now? They can either shoot their way through the gray economy or make $25 a month driving a bus in Dnepropetrovsk.’’

Shteyngart’s depiction of Vladimir’s adventures is so manic that his poor hero sometimes seems like a billiard ball careering from one head-on collision to the next. His billowing money woes in New York; his encounter with the Groundhog’s madman of a father, who has conversations with electric fans; his flight from America, pursued by a convoy of thugs driving peachcolored Cadillacs; his Ponzi scheme for making the Groundhog’s organization even richer by selling horse tranquilizers and literary dreams to young, wellheeled Americans: all are delineated with the antic glee of a natural farceur.

And the people Vladimir meets along the way are sketched with an equally wicked and comic hand: his two impossible New York girlfriends, the pudgy, grudging Challah, and the snooty, doctrinaire Francesca; the jovial but deadly Groundhog, and his nutty, irascible father; and Morgan, the beautiful, plain-spoken terrorist with whom Vladimir falls in love.

Together, these people populate the black comedy world in which Vladimir pursues his dreams, and they help the very talented Shteyngart expose the absurdities that exist on either side of the former Iron Curtain.

“The Russian Debutante’s Handbook.”

By Gary Shteyngart. Riverhead Books.

452 pages. $24.95.

Austrian Artists An exhibition of works by five Austrian artists. From July 3.

Artak Muradyan Still-lifes, urban landscapes and figurative art. Through August 1.

Museum of City Sculpture Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday. 179/2 Nevsky Prospect.

M: Ploshchad Alexandra Nevskogo. Tel.: 2742635 Permanent Collection Housed in the Church of the Annunciation at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery, the museum contains exhibitions dedicated to some of St. Petersburg’s most famous sons and daughters. Exhibitions include “The Necropolis of 18th-Century Artists,” “The National Pantheon of Russia,” and “The Annunciation Burial Vault.” The museum also has a branch, called “Literary Bridges,” at 30 Rasstanaya Ul. It is open daily, except Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tel.: 166-2383.

Museum of the History of Religion Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Wednesday. 14/5 Pochtamtskaya Ulitsa. M: Sadovaya/Sennaya Ploshchad. Tel.: 311-4549.

Permanent Collection Exhibitions about the history of religions, including “Ancient and Traditonal Belief;” “Religion in the Ancient World,” about Egypt, Greece, Rome and the Far East; and “The Development of Christianity and the History of Russian Orthodoxy;” plus the exhibition “What a Pleasant Millenium We Have Outside,” which includes icons, sculptures and the like describing the development of religions in recent times.

Museum of the History of St. Petersburg Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Permanent Collection The History of St. Petersburg from 1703 to the Early 19th century. Commandant’s House. OreshikNoteburg-Shlisselburg. Nevskaya Kurtina.

Museum of Old Petersburg, Petersburg Interiors in Photographs. Engineers’ House.

Furniture and Interior Objects from the Museum of the History of St. Petersburg.

Naryshkin Bastion. Thursday, 12 p.m. and 2 p.m.

Walking tours along the top of the kurtini and bastions of the Peter and Paul Fortress also leave from Nevskaya Kurtina.

Petersburg Through Artists’ Eyes Works with a local theme by members of the Pechatnya printing workshop. Nevskaya Kurtina. Through August.

Contemporary Flemish Art An exhibition in two parts. The first, “My Angel Will Still Fly Here,” comprises photographs by six young Flemish artists. The second, “Flemish Watercolor,” comprises paintings in various different styles. Through August 15.

Museum of the Political History of Russia Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Thursday.

Permanent Collection A range of exhibitions that give an insight into what makes Russia what it is today, including “Russian Reforms and Reformers;” “Business Russia,” a history of finance and banking in Russia in the 19th and 20th centuries; “From the Sublime to the Ridiculous,” the history of Russia through propaganda; “Who Killed Nicholas II?;” and “Having Won the War.” Also the exhibition “Kshesinskaya’s Mansion: Times and People” that runs through 2003 and traces the fate of the mansion built for Matilda Kshesinskaya, a prima ballerina at the Imperial Ballet, by her lover — Nicholas II. Russia and the U.S.: The Importance of Understanding Each Other An exhibition about the history of Russia-U.S. relations in the 20th century. A wide range of materials culled from the museum’s own collections, including documents, photographs, World War II-era weapons and munitions, memorials and clothing. Through September 1.

The Smooth Surface of History An exhibition of needlework by artists from the Soviet period. Through September 1.

Fashion and Politics A video-installation about the transient nature of fashion and politics. July 7 through August 7.

Museum of the Political History of Russia Annex Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Permanent Collection The exhibition “The VChK-KGB-FSB Against Espionage and Terrorism,” including photographs, documents and video footage documenting the state spooks’ valiant fight against espionage, economic crime, terrorism and their repression of Soviet citizens.

Museum of Theater and Musical Arts Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 6 Ploshchad Ostrovskogo. M: Nevsky Prospect/Gostiny Dvor. Tel.: 311-2195 Permanent Collection An exhibition about Russian drama theaters, actors, directors and designers of the 19th and 20th centuries. The exhibition includes paintings, mockups of plays, photographs, costumes and private objects belonging to actors and directors.

Nabokov Apartment Museum Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tel.: 3154713.

Permanent Collection The museum includes the whole apartment where the Nabokov family lived from 1887 until November 1917, and describes the writer’s family and his creative work.

Nota Bene Art Gallery Daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Closed Sunday.

Summer Festival An exhibition of paintings, drawings and decorative-art pieces by artists from across Russia. Through August 4 Natalya Golovkishaya An exhibition of ceramics. July 9 through August 3.

Printing Museum Monday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Wednesday and the last Tuesday of each month.

Permanent Collection Publishing and typography at the start of the 20th century, plus “The Music Room,” a reconstruction of a 19th-century St. Petersburg music-lover’s apartment, replete with all manner of gramphones, records and other paraphernalia.

Pushkin Apartment Museum Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Tuesday.

The Miraculous Brush An exhibition devoted to the complicated fate of two portraits of Pushkin that were painted 175 years ago by Orast Kiprensky and Vasily Tropinin, respectively. Through July 6.

Rumyantsev Mansion Daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday, 11a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed Wednesday and the last Tuesday of each month.

Permanent Collection A range of exhibitions with local themes, including “The History of the Rumyantsev Mansion,” “NEP: Images of the Town and Man,” “St. Petersburg on the Edge of the Millennium,” plus an exhibit commemorating the atomic bombing of Nagasaki.

Festival of Sand Sculpture About 15 teams of artists present works based on the theme of “Rush Hour.” Peter and Paul Fortress. Through July 15.

the st. petersburg times

Smolny Cathedral Exhibition Hall Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Permanent Collection Two exhibitions, about the architecture of Smolny Cathedral and the history of Smolny Convent.

The Restoration of Museum Values in Russia About 600 paintings, frescoes, decorative-art pieces, icons and cultural objects from the 15th century to the present day, restored by 15 St. Petersburg and 15 Moscow artists. Through August 15.

Smolny Historical Memorial Museum Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. by appointment, groups only. Friday, 3 p.m. open to individual visitors.

Permanent Collection Exhibitions about the history of women’s education in Russia, Smolny and the first Soviet government from October 1917 to March 1918, and Smolny during the siege of Leningrad.

SPAS Daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Sale An exhibition-cum-sale of art by St. Petersburg artists. Through July 9.

worship

State Hermitage Museum Daily, 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday, 10:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Monday.

Avant-Garde Jewellery: Sources and Parallels. One hundred and twenty works by European jewellers from the 1970s through the 1990s, and Russian creations from the past two years. Through July 14.

The World’s Masterpieces at the Hermitage Currently on display, on loan from various museums around the world, are Caravaggio’s “Amor Vincit Omnia” (“Love Conquers All”), through July 31; Titian’s “Venus With a Mirror,” through August 26; Lorenzo Lotto’s “The Flight Into Egypt;” two 13th-century Italian icons, through August 18; an exhibit of Kazakh gold, through July 27; and John Constable’s “Gillingham Mill” and George Stubbs’ “Gimcrack, with John Pratt Up, on Newmarket Heath,” through September 21.

For the Common Good: Commemorating the 300th Anniversary of the Monetary Reforms of Peter the Great More than 500 displays from the collection of the Mint Museum: coins, Russian, European and Asian medals from several centuries. The test mintings and medals from the era of Peter the Great and rare 19th-century medals are of particular interest. Through December Union of Museums: The Madonna and the Knights. Van Dyck’s “The Madonna and the Partridges,” from the Hermitage’s own collection; Oscar Kokoshka’s “Knight Errant,” from the collection of the Guggenheim Museum in New York; and Van Dyck’s “The ❙ All Nations Bible Church — Evangelical Charismatic service in English with translation into Russian. Karl Marx House of Culture, 114 Obvodny Canal Embankment.

Sundays 11 a.m., Thursdays 7 p.m. 542-3794 ❙ Anglican/Episcopal — 24 Nab. Reki Fontanki, apt. 22. Through the arch, turn left.

Sundays, 11 a.m. For information please ring 327 08 14. ❙ Apostolic — New Apostolic Church holds services Sundays at 11 a.m. at 113 Leninsky Pr. 153-3701. ❙ Armenian — Church of St. Catherine holds services Saturdays at 6 p.m. at 40 Nevsky Pr. No phone. ❙ Armenian Apostolic Orthodox Church — Church of St. Resurrection has services Sundays at 12 p.m. at 29 Smolenka Nab. 350-5301. ❙ Baha’i Faith — The Baha’i Community of St. Petersburg holds open discussion meetings every Friday at 6 p.m. Everyone welcome. 53/8 Bolshaya Morskaya Ulitsa, Apartment 17. Entrance from Pochtamtskaya Ulitsa. 311-4558. For information in Russian, ask for Nadya; for information in English, ask for Varya. ❙ Baptist — International Baptist Church, 47 Novocherkassky Pr., corpus 1, stairwell 12. Services on Sundays at 11 a.m. and Wednesdays at 7:30 p.m. 442-0107. ❙ Baptist — The Immanuel Baptist International Church has English-language services at 11:15 a.m., Bible study 10:10 a.m., on Sundays at the Mayakovskaya Library, 46 Nab. Fontanki. Call David Pettis at 232-2443. ❙ Buddhist — Daily services at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. at the Kuntsechoinei Datsan Temple, 91 Primorsky Pr. 239-0341. ❙ Catholic — Services on Sundays at 1:30 p.m. in the Church of the Assumption at 11 1-aya Krasnoarmeiskaya Ul. No phone. ❙ Catholic — St. Catherine Roman Catholic Church holds masses at 32-34 Nevsky Pr. Saturdays at 7:30 p.m. in Spanish. Sundays at 9:30 a.m. in English, 10:30 a.m. in

looking for missing kisses

by Kirill Galetski SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

“27 Missing Kisses,” the new film from Georgian filmmaker Nana Djordjadze, is a rare romantic treat, punctuated with upbeat humor. Filmed in Georgia and Greece, the film is set in a small, but lively, town in southeast Europe during one summer.

The film first premiered during the Director’s Fortnight at the Cannes Film Festival two years ago, before doing the rounds of smaller film festivals — including a recent premiere at St. Petersburg’s Festival of Festivals — and is finally on regular release at Dom Kino.

The story concerns the bittersweet coming-of-age of Sibylla (Nuza Kukhyanidze,) an attractive 14-year-old girl with wavy red hair and a yearning for the pastoral side of life. Along with a number of the other women in the town, Sibylla is smitten by the handsome, blond, 41-year-old astronomer Alexander, played by Yevgeny Sidikhin, the hunky TV and film action hero, who has steadily moved into more and more serious roles.

Alexander ignores Sibylla, however, Kukhyanidze plays Sibylla, a 14-year-old girl who falls for a 41-year-old man, whose son in turn falls for her. as he realizes that she is too young for him. He pursues women his own age, tively. They seem generally enthused able actor in the ensemble, in the most been working with Wim Wenders, the some of whom are married. Sibylla’s ri- and give involving performances. The incongruous role in the film. He is the film’s colorful attributes are a manifesval for Alexander’s affections is crux of the film lies with the young Captain, a Romantic — with a capital tation of synergistic international coopVeronika (Amalia Modvinova), another novices, Kukhyanidze and Iashvili, and R — who appears to think he can still eration. Indeed, the film was made posredhead. Meanwhile, Mickey (Shalva it is their heartfelt, truthful turns that pilot a boat on a dried-up sea. The ag- sible though the efforts of Egoli Tossel Iashvili), Alexander’s son and Sibylla’s make the story work. Other elements of ing Richard is a perennial Russian fa- Film, a progressive, up-and-coming playmate, is in turn enamored with the plot, such as a screening of the first vorite from his numerous French Berlin-based international team of proSibylla, and has exacted a promise from Emmanuelle film at the local Dom Kul- comedies, such as “The Tall Blond ducers that has backed quite a few proher to give him 100 kisses. He spends tury, add to the humor, as well as to the Man with One Black Shoe.” He also jects connected with Russia, the latest the major part of the film trying to make romantic-erotic ambience. The bright- played the lead role in Djordjadze’s of which is Alexander Sokurov’s new her make good on her promise. green, sunny days and lush, amorous at- previous feature, “A Chef in Love,” film “The Russian Ark,” which preSidikhin and Mordvinova show a mosphere serve as a counter to the which made some small waves on the miered at Cannes this year. broader range than the action heroes calamitous climax of the film. international arthouse-film circuit. they are usually given to play on RusWith a moving score by Yugoslav “27 Missing Kisses” plays through SunThe film is mostly in Russian, with sian television, in “Banditsky Peter- small doses of Georgian, English and composer Goran Bregovic and lush day, July 14 at Dom Kino, 12 Karavanburg” and “Okhota na Zolushku,” French. The French comes in the form cinematography by Greek-German naya Ulitsa. M: Gostiny Dvor. For more (“Hunting for Cinderella”), respec- of Pierre Richard, the most recogniz- Phedon Papamichael, who has lately information, call 314–8036.

Vision of the Blessed Hermann Joseph,” from the collection of the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. Through August 18.

Gothic and Renaissance Dreams Siennese paintings from the 14th century to the first half of the 16th century. Through September 25.

One Collection’s Fate Five hundred works in stone from the collection of one of the Dukes of Orleans. Through December.

Nicholas I and the New Hermitage.

Nicholas I opened St. Petersburg’s first public museum, and this exhibition covers the event through paintings by European old masters, sculptures, graphic works, creations by Russian masters and documents. New Hermitage. Through August 25.

Buddhist Cave Art Wall paintings from the Bezeklik Buddhist monastery near Tuffan, east Turkistan. Through July 28.

Black Square Kazimir Malevich’s famous futurist masterpiece, saved from being Russian, 12 p.m. in Russian, 1:30 p.m. in Polish and 7 p.m. in Russian. Weekday services at 8 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. in Russian. 311-7170. ❙ Confemporary Church of Christ the Saviour (CCC) – Charismatic services on Sundays at 12 p.m. in Russian with English translation. 63 Tambovskaya Ul., M: Ligovsky Prospect. ❙ Christian Science Society — Services on Sundays at 11 a.m. and Wednesdays at 7:30 p.m. 20 Basseinaya Ul., 2nd floor, Room 205. 323-4752. ❙ The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (Mormons) — Meetings in Russian at 6 Aerodromnia at 10 a.m. English meetings Sundays at 2 p.m. at 56 Nab. Reki Fontanki. 346-7567. ❙ Evangelical — Services on Wednesdays at 6:30 p.m., Sundays at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. and Mondays at 5 p.m. 52 Borovaya Ulitsa. 166-4419. ❙ Hindu — The Hare Krishna Temple meets every day at 7 p.m., with Sunday programs at 4 p.m., at 17 Bumazhnaya Ul. Call 186-7259 or e-mail Marat@pronto.bbt.se. ❙ Jehovah’s Witness — English-language meetings Wednesday at 7 p.m. and every other Saturday at 5:30 p.m. Russian-language meetings Tuesday to Friday at 7 p.m., Saturday at 5:30 p.m. and Sunday at 10:30 a.m. 21 Kolomyazhsky Prospect, 394-5381. More Russianlanguage meetings: Tuesday to Friday at 7 p.m., Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

71. Ul. Chernyahovskogo, 164-2529. Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 5 p.m., Sunday at 11 a.m. 6a Ul. Fuchika, 1747629. ❙ Jewish — Daily prayers at 9 a.m. and 7:45 p.m. in the small synagogue, sung Sabbath service at 10 a.m. in the Great Synagogue. 2 Lermontovsky Pr. 114-1153. ❙ Lutheran (German-Russian) — Bilingual services at St. Peter and Paul Cathedral on Sundays at 10:30 a.m.; Wednesday services in German at 6 p.m. and in Russian at 7 p.m. 22/24 Nevsky Pr. 312-0798.

sold abroad by last-minute state intervention.

On display until further notice.

State Russian Museum Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Tuesday. www.rusmuseum.ru Permanent Collection Russian art, from 12th-century icon-painters to the latest movements in modern art.

Natalya Goncharova: The Russian Years Works, often with religious themes, from Goncharova’s early period, before she left Russia in 1915. Benois Wing. Through July 15.

Italian Painters of the 18th and 19th Centuries Paintings by Italian artists working in St. Petersburg in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Par of the festival “L’Italia sulla via Italiana.” Through July 25.

Vanity Case A traveling exhibition of works by designer Philippe Starck. Marble Palace. Through July.

Russian Folk Toys An exhibition of more than 1,000 toys from the 19th and 20th centuries, from various regions of Russia and made in different technical styles. Through August.

Judith Rothschild An exhibition of more than 50 paintings and collages by this member of the famous family of bankers. Marble Palace.

Through July 29.

Toy Museum 32 Nab. Reki Karpovki. Tel.: 2344312 Paper Puppets More than 30 St. Petersburg painters and sculptors show off a range of items in this unusual genre. The puppets are meant to reveal the artists’ inner world and their unrealized potential. Through September 15.

From the Storeroom of Work An exhibition of toys made from clay by Novgorod-based artist Stanislav Tarasov. The toys on display demonstrate a new approach to the subject, using natural materials collected from the environment. Through September 30.

The African Queen (1951) Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn star in this adventurous love story, set in World War I. Bogart won an Academy Award for his performance. John Huston directs. Spartak.

Fri., July 5 at 3 p.m.; Mon., July 8 at 3 p.m.; Fri., July 12 at 3 p.m.

Bad Company (2002, U.S.-Czech Republic) Criticized for its bad timing and overall banality, this is an action comedy featuring a pair of CIA agents and terrorists who try to buy a nuclear bomb from the Russian mafia in Prague. Anthony Hopkins and Chris Rock star.

Joel Schumacher directs. Crystal Palace.

Through July.

Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1958, U.S.) Based on a play by Tennessee Williams about a neurotic southern-United States. family — an alcoholic husband (Paul Newman) and his agressive wife (Elizabeth Taylor). Richard Brooks directs.

Spartak. Fri., July 5 at 5 p.m.

❙ Lutheran (Evangelical) — Services at the Church of St.

Mary at 8 Bolshaya Konyushennaya Ul. on Sundays at 10:30 a.m. in Finnish and at 1:30 p.m. in Russian and on the first and third Sunday of the month at 3 p.m.

No phone. ❙ Lutheran (Evangelical) — The Russian Evangelical Lutheran Ministry in St. Petersburg has services in English Sundays at 9:30 a.m. at St. Michael’s Lutheran Church, 18 Sredny Pr. 218-0477. ❙ Lutheran (Swedish) — Swedish-Russian services at St. Catherine’s Church at 1 Mal. Konyushennaya on the second and fourth Sunday of the month at 5 p.m. No phone. ❙ Moslem — Daily 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mosque is at 7 Kronversky Prospect. 233-9819. ❙ Presbyterian — The Reformed Presbyterian Church of St.Petersburg meets at 11 a.m. at 44 Nab. Reki Fontanka on Sunday. Service in Russian. A ministry of the Presbyterian Church of America (PCA). No phone. ❙ Russian Orthodox — Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral holds services daily at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. at 1 Preobrazhenskaya Pl. 272-3662. ❙ Salvationist — Russian-English services on Sundays at 3:30 p.m. at 44b Liteiny Prospect.

327-3683. ❙ Salvationist — Salvation Army services at 19 Bol. Monetnaya Ul., 11 a.m. Sundays. 310-4470. ❙ Seventh-Day Adventist — Services usually in Russian only on Saturdays at 10 a.m. and Fridays at 7 p.m., at 85 Morisa Toreza. 553-9433. ❙ StreetCry Christian Fellowship — Meetings every day. Live rock worship, 3:30 p.m. Sundays. Healing ministry to drug addicts, Bible school, prayer meetings, street evangelism. DK Bolshevichka, 9 Ul. Tyushina, 3rd fl. 164-5835.

Submit items to community@sptimes.ru by Wednesday.

Valensiya Art Center 5 Prospect Bakunina.

Tel.: 346-7460.

Trajectory of the Subconscious Sculptures

by Latvian artist Olga Shilova. Through July 17.

A Death in Venice (1978, Italy) Dirk Bogarde stars in Luchino Visconti's adaption of the title work by Thomas Mann. Spartak. Thurs., July 11 at 7 p.m.

Yelizarov Apartment Museum Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Wednesday. 52/24 Ul. Lenina.

Tel.: 235-3778 Permanent Collection An exhibition about Anna Ulyarova-Yelizova, Lenin’s daughter. Part of the series “The Fate of the Russian Intelligentsia.”

The Doors (1991, U.S.) In this ultimate story of sex, drugs, and rock n’ roll, Oliver Stone pays homage to Jim Morrison and the 1960s.

Val Kilmer acts as the late Doors' frontman and does most of the singing himself.

Spartak. Sun., July 7 at 4:30 p.m.; Mon., July 8 at 8:30 p.m.

screens

The Draughtsman's Contract (1982, U.K.) Set in 1694, this mysterious and picturesque film starts when a woman asks a painter to make 12 drawings of their English estate for her absent husband. Peter Greenaway directs. Spartak. Fri., July 5 at 7 p.m.; Wed., July 10 at 3 p.m.

NEW! 27 Missing Kisses (2000, GermanyGeorgia-U.K.-France) Nana Djordjadze's romantic comedy about the love triangle between a 14-year-old girl, a 41-year-old widower and his son. Dom Kino. Through July 12.

Eyes Wide Shut (1999, U.S.-U.K.) Stanley Kubrick takes a close look at a marriage in crisis in his last work, which was released after his death. Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman star. Spartak. Wed., July 10 at 9 p.m.

NEW! The Affair of the Necklace (2001, U.S.) An 18th-century French countess plots to discover her royal title after she is stripped of it. Hilary Swank stars. Charles Shyer directs.

Avrora. Starts July 11. Leningrad. Starts July 12.

Hair (1979, U.S.) Milos Forman's screen version of the Broadway musical about flower power and the Vietnam War. John Savage stars. Choreographed by Twyla Tharp. Spartak.

Tues., July 9 at 9 p.m.

FOR SPT

Sheremetyev Palace Wednesday through Friday, noon to 6 p.m. Saturday, Sunday, noon to 4 p.m.

Permanent Collection The suites of the palace, plus an exhibition of watercolors, blueprints and photographs to mark its 250th anniversary. The palace also houses an annex to the Museum of Theater and Musical Arts that describes St. Petersburg’s musical life from the 18th century to the 20th century and includes an exhibition of musical instruments.

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film

Samoilov Dynasty Apartment Museum Wednesday through Sunday, noon to 6 p.m. 8 Stremyannaya Ul. Tel.: 164-1130.

Permanent Collection “Stars of the Russian Ballet,” an exhibition of artifacts documenting Russia’s rich ballet history.

friday, july 5, 2002

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friday, july 5, 2002

NEW! Kung-Fu Soccer (Siu lam juk kau) (2001, Hong Kong) An action comedy about a bunch of martial arts masters turned soccer players. Kolizei. Through July 11.

Last Tango in Paris (1971, France-Italy) Marlon Brando stars as a washed-up middleaged American in Paris who initiates a purely sexual liaison with a chance acquaintance (Maria Schneider). Directed by Bernando Bertolucci. Spartak. Tues., July 9 at 7 p.m.; Fri., July 12 at 5 p.m.

Love's a Bitch (Amores Perros) (2000, Mexico) An award-winning comedy about relationships which follows three storylines, each also featuring a dog. Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu directs. Spartak. Sat., July 6 at 7 p.m.; Wed., July 10 at 5 p.m.; Fri., July 12 at 7 p.m..

Love's Labour's Lost (2000, U.K.-FranceU.S.) Kenneth Branagh directs this musical adaptation of the early Shakespeare comedy, with songs by George Gershwin, Cole Porter,

the st. petersburg times

Jerome Kern and Irving Berlin. Spartak. Tues., July 9 at 3 p.m.

Moulin Rouge (2001, U.S.) Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor star in Baz Luhrman's glittering film of 1900s vaudeville Paris with contemporary musical numbers. Molodyozhny.

Through Aug. 6.

NEW! Men in Black II (2002, U.S.) Tommy Lee Jones and Will Smith star in this sequel to the 1997 hit about an unofficial government agency that hunts for aliens. Barry Sonnenfeld directs. Avrora. Through July. Barrikada.

Through July. Kolizei. Through July 25. Mirage Cinema. Through July.

Nico and Dani (Krampak) (2000, Spain) Set on the Mediterranean coast, the film tells a story about two Spanish boys discovering gay sexuality. Secs Gay directs. Spartak. Sun., July 7 at 7 p.m.; Wed., July 10 at 7:30 p.m.

Microcosmos (Microcosmos: Le peuple de l’herbe) (1996, France) A unique, unclassifiable film about the insect world.

Won the Technical Grand Prize at the Cannes Film Festival. Spartak. Sun., July 7 at 1 p.m.

No Man's Land (Nikogarsnja zemlja) (2001, Bosnia-Herzegovina-Slovenia-ItalyFrance-UK-Belgium ) Set in BosniaHerzegovina during the 1993 conflict, this black comedy illustrates the absurdities of war. Danis Tanovic directs. Won the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 2002. Dom Kino. Through July 12.

Minor People (Vtorostepenniye Lyudi) (2001, Ukraine) Renowned director Kira Muratova dedicates this grotesque black comedy to the “weak, suffering and sensitive," as she herself puts it. Natalya Buzko, Sergei Chetvertkov and Jean Daniel star. Dom Kino.

July 11 and 12.

The Panic Room (2002, U.S.) In this David Fincher thriller, two women enclose themselves in the "panic room," a secret, burglar-proof chamber, as three ruthless

criminals break in. Jodie Foster and Kristen Stewart star. Crystal Palace. Through July 17.

The Son's Room (La stanza del figlio) (2001, France-Italy) Winner of the Palme d'Or at this year's Cannes Film Festival, this drama deals with a family trying to cope with a loss. Nanni Moretti, Laura Morante, Jasmine Trinca star.

Moretti directs. Spartak. Mon., July 8 at 5 p.m.

Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones (2002, U.S.) Jedi knights continue their struggle against the forces of evil, in the latest instalment of George Lucas’ longrunning saga. Through July 4. Crystal Palace.

Through July 31. Parisiana. Through July 14.

Stark Raving Mad (2002, U.S.) A group of twenty-somethings plan a bank robbery disguised as a rave party in this action comedy. Seann William Scott ("American Pie") stars. Leningrad. Through July 18.

NEW! Talk to Her (Hable con ella) (Spain, 2002) Two men in love with two different

women suffer through the same predicament in this character study by Pedro Almodovar.

Kolizei. Through July 19.

The Time Machine (2002, U.S.) Another screen adaptation of H.G. Wells' sci-fi novel, directed by his great-grandson, Simon Wells.

A professor invents a time machine that allows him to travel 800,000 years into the future where a civil war is raging. Guy Pearce stars. Leningrad. Through July 11. Parisiana.

Through July 14.

NEW! Warm Water Under a Red Bridge (Akai hashi no shita no nurui mizu) (2001, Japan-France) Shohei Inamura's lyrical erotic drama. Dom Kino. Through July 12.

Would I Lie to You? (La verite si je mens) (1997, France) In this romantic comedy, the hero tries to pretend to be Jewish to work effectively in the Jewish community. Thomas Gilou directs. Spartak. Sat., July 6 at 3 p.m.; Sun., July 7 at 2:30 p.m.; Mon., July 8 at 7 p.m.; Tues., July 9 at 5 p.m.; Thurs., July 11 at 5 p.m.

mariinsky fest a traditional treat SPECIAL TO THE ST. PETERSBURG TIMES

Nikitin (c), one of the stars of this yearÕs festival, singing the role of Boris Godunov at Vyborg Castle.

NATASHA RAZINA/SPT

festival

The Mariinsky Theater’s “Stars of the White Nights” festival wrapped up on Sunday, having featured operas, ballets and concerts performed at venues both in St. Petersburg — the Mariinsky itself, the Shostakovich Philharmonic and Smolny Cathedral — and outside the city — a one-off performance of the theater’s new production of Mussorgsky’s “Boris Godunov” at Vyborg Castle on June 27.

The emphasis in this year’s festival was placed not on premieres and new music, as last year’s festival was, but on the quality of the performances, and doing the basic things well. The productions were meticulously honed and were given a wealth of rehearsal time, for which their original directors were brought back to St. Petersburg.

The results were immediately obvious in the festival’s operatic offerings.

Dmitry Chernyakov’s production of Rimsky-Korsakov’s “The Legend of the Invisible City of Kitezh;” Tchaikovsky’s “The Queen of Spades,” directed by Alexander Galibin; Borodin’s “Prince Igor,” in a production that is now almost 50 years old; and Viktor Kramer’s recent staging of “Boris Godunov” all reached exceptionally high levels of artistic achievement, and all came off without the slightest hitch. The standards in the vocal area were similarly high, with notable performances from Vladimir Glazulin, as German in “The Queen of Spades,” and Yevgeny Nikitin (singing the title role in “Boris Godunov.”)

A standout, however, was the “retro” production of Mussorgsky’s “Khovanshchina.” For this, Mariinsky Artistic Director Valery Gergiev had assembled a cast of the theater’s finest voices, and was himself in top form.

Mussorgsky’s masterpiece was profoundly expressive in this new production, making it the artistic highpoint of the entire festival.

The lead female role of Marfa was

stunningly performed by the regal Olga Borodina, whose enchantingly deep, ideally even voice achieved a genuinely hypnotic effect. In her sculptured poses and laconic, capricious gestures there was nothing superfluous: No fussiness, merely slow turns of the head and simple glances, creating an astonishingly powerful image on the stage.

The other members of the cast were also in form. Alexei Steblyanko, as Prince Vasily Golytsin, sang freely and easily, without sounding forced. Mikhail Kit’s tireless Dosifei, Sergei Alexashkin’s colorful Ivan Khovansky, and Viktor Chernomortsev as the boorish, yet handsome, Shaklovity, amply filled out a first-rate cast of characters.

Despite the revised staging by Yury Alexandrov three years ago, “Khovanshchina” recalled the original style and atmosphere of a mid-20th-century production. Leonid Baratov’s direction, and Fyodor Fyodorovsky’s sets, which seem not to have aged in any way since the production premiered in 1960, were a triumph.

The construction of the performance as a whole was so well-planned and comprehensively assembled — the classic format for a major production in the Soviet era — that it could easily hold its own against the pressure of most contemporary versions of the opera.

On June 23, the now-traditional Baltika Awards were handed out, as part of the festival’s sponsorship by the local brewery of the same name that has long been one of the theater’s partners.

The awards have been descibed as an internal affair of the theater and, therefore, the list of nominees and prize-winners is effectively decided by Gergiev. The jury, which includes critics, music historians and journalists, leads an almost entirely nominal existence, which is almost limited to rubberstamping the artistic director’s choices.

Nevertheless, it must be said that Gergiev’s choices are almost always fair and well-grounded.

NATASHA RAZINA/SPT

by Gyulyara Sadykh-zade

MussorgskyÕs ÒKhovanshchinaÓ was another highlight of the festival.

There are separate prizes for established and younger performers. The main prize — “for many years of creative participation in the festival” — went to the astonishing pianist Alexander Toradze, a longtime close friend of Gergiev’s, with whom he regularly perform’s Prokofiev’s piano concertos. This year’s prizes for high achievement in opera went to Gennady Bezzubenkov, one of the Mariinsky’s most seasoned basses, who this season sang Don Alfonso in “Cosi fan tutte” and Pimen in “Boris Godunov;” and, in ballet, to Zhanna Ayupova. Mikhail Shemyakin took the award for best original work, for his staging of “The Nutcracker.”

The awards for younger performers are called “Nadezhda” (“Hope”). This year, the ballet prize was awarded to Darya Pavlenko, who danced the title role in the new version of “La Bayadere” that opened the festival; while the opera prize was won by Mikhail Petrenko, a young and versatile bass who has already sung most of the important roles in the repertoire. During the festival, Petrenko was very convincing in the role of Andrei Degtyarenko in Prokofiev’s “The Tale of a Real Man,” and — interestingly, given his age — he also sang the part of Konchak in “Prince Igor,” without struggling to produce the lower notes in the famous aria, a notorious stumbling block for many performers.

The awards ceremony took place on the stage of the Mariinsky, breaking up the smooth flow of Gergiev’s showcase concert, “At Home With Maestro Gergiev.” The first part of the concert was performed under the baton of the Mariinsky’s principal guest conductor, Gianandrea Noseda. Gergiev himself

performed in a somewhat unexpected capacity, playing the piano in a sixhanded work — employing three pianos — with Toradze and Sara Wolfensohn. The trio performed Mozart’s Concerto for Three Pianos in F , K242 and, although they clearly had to concentrate in order to follow their scores, they played with inspiration and refinement, focusing on the intricate textured patterns of the work and its abundance of charming light passages.

Such a high level of musicianship is, of course, intended for connoisseurs, and would perhaps have been more suited to a more intimate, chamber-music venue, where the music’s subtle intonations and nuances could be highlighted, allowing the audience to appreciate more the decisions of the soloists, orchestra and conductor. In the enormous space of the Mariinsky, however, much is simply lost, although the extraordinary achievement of playing such a work can be imagined. Even so, the performance of the Mozart was of great interest.

In the same half, the baritone Vasily Gerello performed expansively, demonstrating the passions of his temperament, employing a unique pathos and humor in his renditions of one of the arias from Verdi’s “Macbeth” and the cavatina from Mozart’s “The Marriage of Figaro.”

In the second half, Gergiev took the podium to conduct Wagner’s overture to “Tannhauser” with his usual quest for perfectionism, providing a rousing, inspiring performance of the piece. The Wagner was followed by Mussorgsky’s “Songs and Dances of Death,” with Borodina as the soloist, and Stravinsky’s “The Rite of Spring.”

The final highlight of the festival was the performance of “Boris Godunov” in the coutyard of Vyborg Castle, which suited the production entirely. Although the production was entirely conservative, it maintained a wholeness of expression and gave an irrefutable logic to the characters and their precise behavior on the stage, as well as an entirely appropriate energy.

The performance was staged without a raised podium, instead taking place directly on the yard’s cobblestones, just a few steps from the audience. As a result, the audience was drawn directly into the space of the performance, becoming participants in the action, and following the performer’s movements in close detail, listening to every word of the text and seeing every detail of the textured boyar costumes.

The piercing cries of swallows, the smoke from blazing torches, Gergiev lit by a spotlight, and wind rustling through the trees growing in the courtyard gave the performance a striking authenticity, further enhancing the realism of this “folk drama.” The music and accompaniment of natural sounds blended into a symphony of life. In that instant, an ancient past, embodied in the thickness of the fortress’ walls, and the artistic present were as one.

It is too early to say whether performances in Vyborg Castle will attain the same status of Savonlinna, the Finnish town that has hosted an opera festival for over 40 years and attracts opera lovers every year. For one thing, the castle there has a much higher audience capacity than its counterpart at Vyborg.

Nevertheless, the idea of holding an opera festival in Vyborg seems very rational indeed.