the boys own issue

double MAGAZINE.CO.UK

THE BOY’S OWN ISSUE Featuring work by Alex De Mora, Daniel Ciufo, Nicholas Riley Bentham, Victoria Stone, trine jensen, amanda arber, zoe jenkin + lots more

EDITORS NOTE WE LIKE BOYS. WE LIKE BLOKES. WE LIKE GEEZERS. WE LIKE MEN. WE LIKE GENTLEMEN. WE LIKE GUYS. WE LIKE DUDES. WE LIKE CHAPS. WE LIKE FELLOWS. WE LIKE BAD BOYS. WE LIKE GEEKY GUYS. WE LIKE DILFS. WE LIKE CHILFS. WE LIKE SIRS. WE LIKE MR’s.

WE LIKE HEMAN. WE LIKE SUPERMAN. WE LIKE DADS. WE LIKE BROTHERS. WE LIKE BOYFRIENDS. WE LIKE GAYFRIENDS. WE LIKE BRUTES. WE LIKE CUTES. THIS IS THE BOY’S OWN ISSUE.

designer interview: WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK WORDS: ZOE JENKIN

Where are you from/where do you live?

I’m Belgian, living in Zandhoven and working in Antwerp.

What is your main job title?

Fashion Designer and artist.

What do you actually do day-to-day?

Create.

What was your first ever job?

Selling in a clothes-shop as student-job.

How did u get from there to where you are today?

Working hard and keep on believing.

How did you first become interested in fashion?

David Bowie and his different looks. He stimulated my interest in communication through clothes.

What’s the best bit about your job?

Putting ideas on paper and drawing.

And what’s the worst?

Organizing production.

Are there any common misconceptions about you or your career choice?

That I am funny and crazy. Actually I’m rather serious and organized. I have to be.

What advice would you give ot anyone wanting to do this?

Don’t be impatient,be original,keep on believing.

What moment made you realise this was the right career for you?

When i start to study in the Anwerp Academy.

Is there any other roles you would like to work in the future?

Designing costumes for fantasy-movies.

What do you want to be doing in 10 years?

I will be still creating.

SexClown, eXplicit and Weird; just three of Walter Van Beirendonck’s unique and welcomed collections. If you are someone who enjoys obscurity and obscenity within your wardrobe, Walter is your man.

Since his early collections, Walter has been inspired by art, music and literature, all mixed with an element of ethnic and nature influences. Walter Van Beirendonck is considered to be one of the main trend-setters in men’s fashion by the professional press, not to mention his army of trend elite followers, ready to snap up his collections straight from the catwalks each season. His designs are recognisable by either strong graphics or innovative cuts and unexpected colour combinations. His controversally memorable pieces offer a slight relief to the never ending tailored suites, skinny trousers and button down shirts that are so often the only garments on offer for men. The red thread throughout his collections shows his sense of humour, about sex especially. His continous statements about the fashion-world, relationships, nature, contempary life and society are collated within his prints and slogans.

Braille Zip Scarf £75

Raf Simmons Wollen Arm Sleeves

Lou Dalton Fairisle Knitted Crewneck Jumper £250.00

J.W. Anderson Overdyed Wool Trousers £250.00

Rag & Bone Merino Wool Scarf £110.00

the

wishlist

Unconditional Blazer £285

A warm and cosy wishlist of layered up tailoring, chunky fisherman knits and good old-fashioned footwear. In these freezing times even our wishlists have us reaching for the practical (never-the-less beautiful) wardrobe winter staples.

Maison Martin Margiela Treatment Snake Shoe £390.00

Cos Fisherman Jumper £79

J.W. Anderson Emblem square ring

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TREND ONITOR ZOE JENKIN

WRAPPED UP VAGABOND With unemployment and then subsequent repossesion orders at an all time high and the fractious financial woes our country is facing, designers engage with the plight of the british public in a potrayal of wrapped-up vagabonds. They are presenting homelessness as a visual and relevant reflection of our need for protection against a currently challanging world.

Mismatched, dishevelled and undinabley cosy, exxessive layering with a nod to the nomad, layered up looks reminicent of vagrants have been all over the catwalks. A plethora of different textures and fabrics all thrown on at once, furs, chunky knits, creased and crumpled upholstery patterns, tattered tailoring and exposed seams, all question the social boundaries between the Haves and the Have NOTS. This trend offers an exciting turn and change for mens wearm ushering in a greter capacity for creativity and individuality. This look breaks all the standard man rules, mixing prints and patterns of plaid, stripe, check and tweed, encorporating existing classics but evolving into something new. A heavy infusion of the look and belief behind post-grunge and anti-fashion, the layered up vagabond references the past, the future and the now.

JOB ENVY

::::::::::::::::::::::::::JOE.DANIEL ZOE JENKIN

Two boys, both called Joe, shared an interest in elementary geometry and after discovering an obsolete ‘Triangulation Station’ that belonged to the Ordnance Survey in a South London park, they took this as a sign that they should also attempt to ‘plot a map’, albeit a musical one rather than a geographic one. So with that and the initial funding which was secured through one of ‘The Joes’ taking part in medical trials for a new cancer drug, Angular Recording Corporation was conceived in the June 2003. Their first release was ‘The New Cross’ compilation album, featuring the first recorded appearances from future stars Bloc Party and the Rough Trade rereleased Art Brut track ‘Formed A Band’. This album of local talent went on to win ‘Compilation of the Year 2004’ in NME, and spawn the media hyped ‘New Cross Scene’.

The label continued to grow, releasing debut singles and EPs by The Long Blondes, Klaxons, The Violets, The Lodger, and These New Puritans. Joe D also found time to coin the joke genre ‘New Rave’ while in Deptford library with Klaxons songwriter Jamie Reynolds. As if this wasn’t enough, the boys also managed to strike up an informal ‘Special Relationship’ with legendary label Domino (who, naturally delighted, Signed ‘Wild Beasts’ on ‘The Joes’ advice). Joe D has even been seen playing bass for Klaxons in the summer of 07 when Jamie Reynolds broke an important limb on an on-stage mishap.

Angular continues to release the finest pop music they can find and here we catch up with Joe D to find out exactly what goes on when running an independent record label...

Tell us a bit about your company and how you started it...It’s an independent record label and we’ve released all sorts of things over the years, most recently These New Puritans, a minimal synth compilation called ‘Cold Waves and Minimal Electronics’, and a comedy record by poet Tim Key. It began up a hill in a park in Lewisham in 2003.

My main job title is... I do ALL of the jobs. :-) What I actually do day-to-day is...Lots of frantic flapping about trying to keep it all together.

My first ever job was... I worked in an all night fast food van flipping burgers for drunken students. It was great, free burgers!

I got from there to where I am today... I watched 24 Hour Party People and thought, ‘I wanna do THAT.’ The best bit about my job is... Making a catalogue of great records and them all having their own number.

The worst is... Struggling to sell them.

The funniest/weirdest thing that ever happened to me at work was... Hmm, there’s been a few.

A man in San Francisco once sent us a naked photo of himself, that was odd. We put it on our website.

A common misconceptions about my job is...That there’s money, fame, or glamour. There isn’t all that much.

The piece of advice I would give to anyone wanting to do this is... I dunno, I can’t think of any. We always tried not to listen to advice.

The moment which made me realise this was the right job for me was... I never have really, I just kind of tried it for fun and kept on doing it.

In the future I would like to...Settle down.

If I wasn’t doing this I would be...Back in the burger van. Free burgers!!!!

THE

NEW MENS

DESIGNERS WORDS: SORCHA DALY

CAROLINE

GARDENER

HANNAH TER MEULEN ROBERT

HUTH

COURTNEY McWILLIAMS

CAROLINE E M M A GARDENER Caroline Emma Gardner uses bright colours and chunky knits to create vibrant, whimsical knitwear. Her uplifting MA collection showcases grey alpine patterns, lime green tweeds and light denim flat caps. The standout piece is a two-piece suit in candy-coloured Tetris blocks finished with a pair of pop art lips. I’m off to find Gardner’s boys in a technicolour ski lodge.

H A N N A T E R M E U L E N Taking the silhouette of early-nineties Armani and Versace, Hanna Ter Meulen creates a dark, sinister dandy. Draped jackets and slouchy trousers seem straight out of American Psycho, whilst intricate techniques like latticing and smocking bring the collection into the modern age. Floor-length hounds tooth coats and striking round sunglasses are noteworthy in this collection of unhinged elegance.

R O B E R T H U T H More gentleman assassins can be seen walking the catwalk for Robert Huth. Classic tailoring is offset with outside seams that look like jagged barbed wire. Huth plays with texture and layers in this monochromatic collection, with sheer jersey roll necks, leather and wool jackets and long classic dress coats hanging below cropped trousers. Huth’s aesthetic may be grounded in traditional tailoring, but on a closer look you’ll see it tearing apart at the seams.

C O U R T N E Y M c W I L L I A M S Courtney McWilliams makes young, tough casual wear. T-shirts and tracksuits emblazoned with pit bulls, high-peaked baseball caps and Burberry-esque check give a gentle nod to the chav.

However, McWilliams’ gentlemen scallies team these with tailored velvet jackets and padded country coats, giving street wear a refined edge.

Photography: Michael Mayren

BRIGHT SIDE OF THE ROAD PHOTOGRAPHER: Model: Berto Yo Lee @ Icon Barcelona Make up and Hair Artist: Iv谩n G贸mez S谩nchez Stylist: Giulia Marsili Assistant photographer : Jordi L贸pez Photographer: Elena Bofill

Jacket Victorio & Lucchino, Shirt American Apparel, Pants Gori de Palma, Boots G-Star, Necklace Dyrberg & Kern

t-shirt Gori de Palma, Pants American Apparel, Boots G-Star, Necklace and ring Dyrberg & Kern

Jeans G-Star, Pull-over Victorio & Lucchino, Shoes G-Star, Ring Dyrberg & Kern

Shirt American Apparel, Pants Gori de Palma

Parka G-Star, See-throught shirt American Apparel, Shirt without sleeves Gori de Palma, Leggings American Apparel, Necklace Dyrberg & Kern, Boots G-Star, Glasses Fendi

Jacket Gori de Palma, Shirt Levi’s, Pants American Apparel, Shoes H&M

BOYS CLUB PHOTOGRAPHY: Alex De Mora STYLING: Zoe Jenkin GROOMING: Amanda Rudkin MODELS: Archie @FM Models &

ARCHIE WEARS ANORAK BY CHRISTOPHER SHANNON, 3D CAR SHIRT BY TRINE LINDERGAARD JENSEN, GREY JOGGING PANTS BY BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB, TRAINERS STYLIST’S OWN

LEWIS WEARS JUMPER BY TRINE LINDEGAARD JENSEN, JOGGING PANTS BY BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB, BLACK WOOLY HAT BY H&M, TRAINERS STYLIST’S OWN. ARCHIE AS BEFORE.

LEWIS WEARS TICK TOCK JUMPER BY THOMASIN GAUTIER-OLLERENSHAW, TWEED BOMBER JACKET BY BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB.

ARCHIE WEARS FACE JUMPER BY THOMASIN GAUTIER-OLLERENSHAW, CHECKED SHIRT

BY BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB, LEATHER PATCH TROUSERS BY WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN, CAO BY BBC. LEWIS WEARS JUMPER BY TRINE LINDEGAARD JENSEN, FINGERLESS GLOVES BY H&M, WATERPROOF TROUSERS BY CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

LEWIS WEARS TICK TOCK JUMPER BY THOMASIN GAUTIER-OLLERENSHAW, TWEED BOMBER JACKET BY BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB. ARCHIE WEARS TROUSERS BY CHRISTOPHER SHANNON, MAP GILLET BY BBC AND JUMPER BY WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN.

LEWIS WEARS YELLOW WAX JACKET BY WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN, JEANS BY TOPMAN, JUMPER BY WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN AND HAT

BY THOMASIN GAUTIER-OLLERENSHAW. ARCHIE WEARS ORANGE BBC JUMPER, CAP BY H&M AND TROUSERS BY CHRISTOPHER SHANNON.

LEWIS WEARS HOODIE BY BILLIONARE BOYS CLUB. ARCHIE WEARS SWEATER BY WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN.

INTO THE LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY: Nicholas Riley-Bentham STYLING: Amanda Arber PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: Emma Gibney MODELS: Felix Branch, Louis Galloway, Austin Myers, Egor, Joshua Bell, Stanny M & James Ross. All at Elite.

MENS CASTING DIRECTOR: Amelia Trevette Special Thank You to Ellis Scott, the Scott family and Elite Models London

LEFT: Shirt by Topman, Trousers by Topman & Jacket by Hasan Hejazi. RIGHT: Shirt by Topman, Trousers by Tween. Boots by Office.

Vintage fur bolero from Beyond Retro, Trousers by Tween

Fur coat from Beyond Retro, Trousers and boots from Topman

Fur by Beyond Retro, Shirt by Tween

Trousers by Topman, Boots by Dr Marten

Head piece by J Smith Esquire

Shirt by Tween, Trousers by Topman

Shirts by Topman, Hair Jacket by Hasan Hejazi

Hat by Beyond Retro

SHOOT 4 ZOE & DAN

RUDE BOYS Photographer - Alis Pelleschi MUA - Becky Hunting Styled - Krishan Parmar Models - Greg Claridge & Jake Greenfield

Jake wears Beekay hat & Damian Marquez swimwear

Greg wears Mariel Osborn headpiece

Jake and Greg wear Damian Marquez swimwear

Jake wears Two weeks headpiece as necklace / Damian Marquez swimwear

Greg wears Emma Bell headpiece / Damian Marquez swimwear

Greg wears Two Weeks by Bitching and Junkfood neckpiece / Damian Marquez swimwear

Jake wears Beekay hat / Damian Marquez swimwear. Greg wears Mariel Osborn headpiece / Damian Marquez swimwear

Greg wears Richard Quinn headpiece / Damian Marquez swimwear / Shoes models own

Jake wears Richard Quinn headpiece / Damian Marquez swimwear / Armbands models own

Jake wears Damian Marquez swimwear

Jake wears Damian Marquez swimwear / Shoes models own

FANTASTIC MAN. PHOTOGRAPHER Daniel Ciufo | STYLIST Zoe Jenkin GROOMING Branka Vorkapic using Dermalogica MODELS Gabriel & O’Shea @ Select Model Management, Lukas @ D1Models

BUTTON UP GRANDAD TOP BY ACNE, BRACES FROM BEYOND RETRO

CORD SHIRT FROM UNIQLO, CHUNKY KNIT BY VICTORIA STONE, VINTAGE TROUSERS FROM THE PATTERN MARKET, BOOTS BY DR.MARTEN

WHITE TSHIRT SHIRT FROM UNIQLO, SHEARLING & LEATHER SLEEVLESS JACKET BY VICTORIA STONE, VINTAGE TROUSERS FROM THE PATTERN MARKET, BOOTS BY DR MARTEN

BLACK SLEEVELESS SHIRT BY VICTORIA STONE, VINTAGE TROUSERS FROM THE PATTERN MARKET, BOOTS BY DR MARTEN

CORD SHIRT FROM UNIQLO, ALL IN ONE TAILORED SUIT BY VICTORIA STONE

CORD SHIRT FROM UNIQLO, ONE SLEEVE SHEARLING AND LEATHER COAT BY VICTORIA STONE, VINTAGE TROUSERS FROM THE PATTERN MARKET, BOOTS BY DR MARTEN

BLACK GRANDAD COLLAR SHIRT BY VICTORIA STONE, VINTAGE TROUSERS FROM THE PATTERN MARKET, FUR TRIMMED COAT FROM BEYOND RETRO, BOOTS BY DR MARTEN

VINTAGE SHIRT, BRACES AND TROUSERS FROM THE PATTERN MARKET

ONE BOY B Y . L I S A . H O L G E R S S O N

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five influencial MUSICAL MEN WORDS: ANNA MATHESON Have you ever tried defining a list of the 5 most influential men in music of all time? Well, it’s quite hard. So rather then attempt to even define the most important musicians, I’ve decided to compile a list of men, who, in my opinion at least, were pretty important in shaping the music we hear today. You may read this and cringe at the left out Dylan’s and Morrissey’s alike, but musics all about opinion right? So here we go, my list of 5, pretty influential men in music...

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It’s hard to imagine a world without David Bowie, his triumph of of multiple music genres, from punk to techo, new wave to glam rock, makes it difficult to find an artist today that doesn’t fall under the umbrella of Bowie’s influence. Lady gaga, Blur, TV on the Radio, Morrissey; Bowie did it all first and saw himself turn from pupil to teacher, when some of his own influences (Lou Reed, Marc Bolan) began to channel his innovating musical directions. The addiction struggling, fantastical superstar’s career has spanned an amazing five decades, 23 studio albums, countless record sales, and a cult following has never died down despite his constant change of course. Ziggy Stardust inspired a generation of Glam rock and questionable sexuality, the Thin White Duke exposed a drug fuelled political controversy; whatever boundaries Bowie pushed, however he changed, only added to his awe and his relevance as an influential man of music who has no less relevance today as he did fifty years ago. All Hail David Bowie, the musical chameleon that can try anything, and make it his own.

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US Army Soldier turned guitar hero to the masses; Jimi’s influence over the development of the guitar’s importance was monumental, I mean he practically invented feedback for god’s sake. The man could play with his teeth, use his body as a jungle-gym for his guitar and all the while never drop a note; his on-stage presence was undeniable, and completely contrasted his humble off-stage demeanour. Kidnapped and allegedly murdered by his own manager, Jimi left behind a legacy of guitar technique that influenced most of your favourite guitarists today; Jack White, Matt Bellamy and Jonny Marr to name a few. Jimi’s effect on the prestige of the electric guitar was phenomenal, his technicality took distortion to another level, his bend on hard rock helped create metal and his on-stage dramatics created a “experience” to die for. Jimi’s career may have been brief, but the influence has lasted the 40 long years since his death.

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One quarter of the band that started pop music; what’s not to say about John Lennon’s relevance today? He’s the band member’s hero, the reason most kids pick up a copy of Catcher in the Rye, the one to pay homage to, (Ever heard Oasis’s “I’m Outta time”? It’s almost a musical love letter to Liam’s favourite Beatle) I challenge you to find someone that hasn’t heard imagine; Lennon’s legacy resonates everywhere, and not just because of that, “more popular than Jesus” comment. Whilst his bizarre relationship with Ono made headlines, his love for word play grew to create lyrics that inspired generations of musicians that would follow his lead in introspective reflections. As a Beatle and a solo artist, Lennon’s influence lies everywhere.

M I C H A E L . J A C K S O N The man who helped launch MTV, and with it a new generation of pop music videos and R&B lovers. From his childhood stardom in The Jackson 5 to 2001’s Invincible, Jackson’s voice was unique and instantly recognisable, whilst his show stopping moves created new dance floor trends, (Don’t even try and pretend you’ve never attempted a moon walk). His songs contain a mixed bag of hard rock to funky rhythms that influenced the Beyonces and Ushers topping the charts today. There are hundreds of questions left unanswered about MJ, and his private life can only be described as strange, but somehow the fact that no one really knows the truth about the King of Pop makes him even more awe inspiring.

E L V I S You couldn’t possibly have a list of the most influential men in music without including the King; half of the musicians on list cite him as an influence, along with a good deal of successful musicians since his reign over rock and roll. Blues, gospel, funk; Presley mastered them all and as a result, has released 21 number 1 albums to this day. He may have died on the toilet, but his effect on the music scene paved way for the 60’s; it was a more then a musical revolution, Elvis changed the youth culture for good, and with it solidified rock and roll as a genuine genre. In terms of his relevance over today’s music, it seems the King’s influence has never really left the building.

on the radar: JACUZZI BOYS WORDS: JADE FRENCH

PARTY IN THE CITY WHERE THE HEAT IS ON/ ALL NIGHT ON THE BEACH TO THE BREAK OF DAWN/ WELCOME TO MIAM/ BUENVENIDOS A MIAMI Florida based Miami band Jacuzzi Boys pack a punch. Digging the roots of the sixties garage scenes of America into the ground and then stamping all over them. Maybe if the Beach Boys got crunk and sniffed some dubious powder combos they’d come out the other side sounding like Jacuzzi Boys?

“Coral Girls” dances into the room like Nico palming the walls in the corner the Factory whilst the Velvet Underground sit moodily in the corner under a giant print screen of a can of soup. The whacked out guitars fuzz over the driving drums as the hazy vocals drawl out their meaning. Flipping onto a more straight rock’n’roll vibe comes “Smells Dead” with its catchy refrains and Black Lips raucousness.

There is a sun-dipped horizon with Jacuzzi Boys, they know how to pick you up in the precious lull of some Hawaiian guitar and drop you on the other side with some nasal vocals shouting words at you. It’s surf and punk, it’s Sid Vicious catching a wave. Unlike that urgent punk anger thought they have the moves to make you wanna just sit back in your chair and chill the fuck out. “The Countess” is a laid back offering with stripped back guitar licks, this wouldn’t be out of place on an acoustic Nuggets album or in the come down aftermath of Woodstock.

Makes you want to be a serious hippie waving your hands in the air to try and grab a piece of sky. Grabbing “I Fought a Crocodile” with all it’s rockabilly might and chucking it at the sound-effects machine gives the band another dimension and “A Strange Hand” has Nirvana tinges and lacksidasical nodalong element.

Jacuzzi Boys float through genre like an ethereal dragon. Their take on the Miami sunshine gives them a warmth and their contemporary take on the sixties garage gives them an edge.

song love: FLIGHT FACILITIES “Crave You” WORDS: JADE FRENCH

SPOTIFY- Flight Facilities – Crave You MYSPACE- www.myspace.com/flightfacilities “Why can’t you want me like the other boys do?

They stare at me while I crave you”.

My friend sent me a link to this song telling me that it was the perfect music for an Indian summer. It totally is, evoking the hazy days of drinking in sunlight parks and lying on beaches. Giselle sings sweetly and naively about liking a boy who doesn’t like her back. It’s got a touch of Best Coast lyrics about it, those ingénue and ethereal moments. The video is a gorgeously shot American dream with some French electro vibes popping up underneath. This is Flight Facilities only foray into originality, having been pretty prolific with their remixing work, and hopefully not a one-hit experiment. Like The Twelves and The Shoes they have a unique spin on their sound which makes them recognizable and instantly danceable. Flight Facilities are wrapped in a bit of enigma despite major blog buzzings with their location drifting from Trinidad and Tobago to Australia.

It’s a pretty and addictive song, perfect for battling the winter blues away

WHAM: The Ultimate Boy Band?

WORDS:JADE FRENCH

Wham! – the ultimate ‘boys own’ band. In their time- those bright days of middle-class 1980s England when yuppies and massive mobile phones ruled the street corners- Wham! lived the high-rolling dream.

Wham! weren’t afraid to fake the lifestyle - from padding their crotches for Top of the Pops appearances to jumping on the burgeoning bad-boi rap bandwagon with their eponymous hit “Wham! Rap”… Best lyric “Hey everybody take a look at me/ I got street credibility”. Not only did George Michael know how to play around with cramming syllables into a sentence but he also pioneered the risqué sports-wear look alongside Andrew Ridgeley.

Theirs was a career dancing on shaky heights. The bust-and-boom of the 80s coupled with the pair’s dubious contract with their record label spelt the end of the yuppie dream-raiders. Probably their best moments are as the “Club Tropicana” beach-resort representatives. The previous moody looks and leather jackets were replaced with permatans and primary colours. The video for “Club Tropicana” sums this up as a bunch of beautiful people cavort around a swimming pool, Ridgeley casually floating around on an inflatable with his massive mobile (not a euphemism). A dodgy faux-Mexican man shakes those drinks as Wham! proclaim the mantra of the 80s bankers- “There’s enough for everyone”.

What Christmas party would be complete without “Last Christmas” blaring its cheesy way down the Asda aisles? Who doesn’t get a smile on their face when “Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go” flits through the Zoolander soundtrack? It is impossible not to shake your hips to “I’m Your Man” and dance around in unashamed Technicolor day-glo velour to “Freedom”.

Basically Wham! embody the simpler pop-music era when the onus was on who hair feathered the best and whose pants were the tightest- they are a boy very own band who gave the aspiring work-and-play men of the 1980s a peg to hang their hat and a dream to live up to- get on the plane, get the tan and get to where the free drinks are.

DUM DUM GIRLS: A Band For The Boys?

Looking at Dum Dum Girls makes me want to scratch my eyes out and start a steam-veg only diet- they are far too perfect. Dressed like little gothic dolls with not a hair out of place they are surely giving the largely male crowd at XOYO boners. Throw into the mix their 60s garage vibe and their undeniably catchy songs and you reach the conclusion sometimes life isn’t fair.

But perhaps life isn’t fair on the band either. Their looks are often the main point of reference for reviewers, their music coming in second place behind their outfits. It is easy to see why that is the case- they are smokin’ and hey- it’s the first thing I thought of when seeing them live.

Let’s not forget, though, that they are signed to music aficionado label Sub Pop, that they were at the start of the blaze which conch called the likes of Vivian Girls, Las Robertas and Warpaint to the genre and that their jingly music has deeper meanings behind it. According to Pitchfork their first full length album’s initial concept was based around an Italian woman’s only jail in the 60s and their pastiche of 60s Go-Go bands infiltrates the feminist stand of the last century.

There are so many ‘all male’ bands doing the same psych-garage sounds- Crocodiles, Harlem, Girls- yet no review I have read ever comments on the fact they have penises and wear jeans with just enough rips, flashing the flesh. It isn’t that femininity in a band should be glossed over- it is part of Dum Dum Girls charm, stage persona and homage to the 1960s, but it shouldn’t be the main event.

At times Dum Dum Girls do fall short- sometimes their music seems entrapped in its own reverence for the likes of the Velvet Underground and the Raveonettes. Yet even though their music is derivative those 1960’s gogo bands it evokes are just as much part of the whole women-in-music debate- ultimately can a girl group not embroiled in the scantily clad pop scene infiltrate the mainstream? It’s a testament to Dum Dum Girls just how crowded their London gig was, even if it was on the male-heavy side. There are reviews of that gig which place them as style-over-substance, giving a boring and talentless performance. Even though at times their preference for feedback made the gig roll slowly they showed themselves to be a true band. Beginning the set with a slower number set the tone that the band weren’t just going to do their best known stuff. Their vocal harmonies were flawless, their stage presence magnetic.

It’s amazing to see so many girl fronted bands breaking into the ‘boys only’ clubs, but bands like Dum Dum Girls shouldn’t be lumped into the same category as Best Coast just because they both have cute female singing.

So cynics might say Dum Dum Girls have wiggled their noses ‘Bewitched’ style and made the music industry men fall at their feet (because apparently even in 2010 that stereotypical ‘hot-girl-gets-promoted” mentality is still pathetically rife). However, they wouldn’t have held on so far without having a semblance of musicality and without hooking into the genre of the moment.

WORDS: JADE FRENCH

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