Ccc journal 2016 issuu by dtech

Cly de Cruising Club

Jour n a l 2 016

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Contents

DONALD MCNAMARA TROPHY

COATS CUP

VATERSAY CUP

26 42

CCA TROPHY

CALEDONIAN TROPHY

MURRAY BLAIR CHALLENGE TROPHY

THE OGG CUP

Clyde Cruising Club Flag Officers & Committee Welcome to the 2016 Journal Prizewinners 2015 Coats Cup Donald McNamara Trophy CCA Trophy Vatersay Cup Caledonian Trophy R.G. Mowat Memorial Trophy The Ogg Cup Murray Blair Challenge Trophy Barra Cup

R.G. MOWAT TROPHY

38 4 5 6 8 14 18 22 26 33 38 42 48

50 52 58 62 66 73 77 82 85 88 90 94

Anna’s Log Galapagos 2015 North Channel Circuit Molly Rounds the Mull Pinocchio’s Summer Cruises 2015 Fastnet Race 2015 Socialising in the Hebrides Halcyon days! Tarskavaig – In search of summer Racing Start for a Gastro Cruise Log of yacht Bella Nova New Texa from Holland to Scotland

102 104 105 106 110 114 116 124 128 129 130 132

BARRA CUP

Happy 90th Birthday Lola Give it a Go The Mull of Kintyre Sailing from a Different Perspective CCC Report 2015 List of Prizewinners 2015 Prizegiving and Dinner Dance Members’ Cruises 2015 Journal Instructions Sailing Directions Coruisk Trophy Winners Obituaries

Published by D-Tech Publishing Ltd., Suite 3.3, Station House, 34 St. Enoch Square, Glasgow G1 4DF. Telephone 0141 222 2202. This journal is fully protected by copyright and nothing may be printed wholly or in part without the written permission of CCC Ltd. and the publishers. The proprietors of this publication are publishers and not agents, or sub-agents of those who advertise therein. They cannot be held liable for any loss suffered as a result of information gained from this publication. The views expressed by authors of articles published in this publication are solely those of the author and are not necessarily the views of or shared by the publisher or the directors, shareholders and/or employees of D-Tech Publishing Ltd.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 3

Clyde Cruising Club Flag Officers & Committee The objectives of the Club include encouraging cruising and cruising races plus promoting the interests of sailing and yachting generally.

2015

Flag Officers

2016

Patrick Trust Hecate

Commodore

Clive Reeves Lyrebird

Vice Commodore

John Readman Nona

Dane Ralston Helen Kirk Toy Buoy

Rear Commodores

Helen Kirk David Denholm Coigach

Office Bearers Jennifer Rolland

Secretary

Jennifer Rolland

Graham Crawford

Cruising Secretary

Graham Crawford

Des Balmforth

Racing Secretary

Des Balmforth

Vacant

Treasurer

Vacant

James Graham

Captain Dinghy Section

Hugh McLean

Sandra Smith

Treasurer Dinghy Section

Sandra Smith

Edward Mason

Editor of the Sailing Directions

Edward Mason

Iain MacLeod

Assistant Editor of the Sailing Directions

Iain MacLeod

Elizabeth Balmforth

Editor of the Journal

Elizabeth Balmforth

Assistant Editors

Penny French, Thorold Mackie

MEMBERS OF THE COMMITTEE – 2016 Chris Evans Jonathan Anderson Susan Morrison Matt Wells Jim Graham Charlie Craig

Clyde Cruising Club, Suite 101, The Pentagon Centre, 36 Washington Street, Glasgow G3 8AZ Tel: 0141 221 2774 Fax: 0141 221 2775 Email: office@clyde.org Web: www.clyde.org Secretary and Administrator: Jennifer Rolland Cover photo – Valhalla of Ashton at Scottish Series Cover and Racing photos courtesy of Marc Turner, PFM Pictures

The views expressed in this Journal are those of invited contributors and not necessarily those of Clyde Cruising Club Ltd, Flag Officers or Committee. No responsibility or liability shall be accepted by the Clyde Cruising Club, Flag Officers or Committee for any injury, loss or damage that may occur as a consequence of any inaccuracies in or omissions from any material contained within this Journal.

4 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Welcome to the CCC Journal 2016 Clive and Flora Reeves.

Welcome to the 2016 Journal

t is my great pleasure to introduce the CCC Journal. In my 34 years of membership of the CCC I have been inspired by the logs of our members from all over the globe. Every year before our summer cruise I read articles from past Journals to help me decide and give me confidence to venture out to our wonderful West coast sailing grounds without doubt the best in the world. In conversation with a group of French sailors in Campbeltown this summer “they don’t come to Scotland for the weather” but for the sailing, scenery and the wonderful people. I will long remember sitting in the Monach cockpit of Lyrebird at anchor in the Monarch Isles 2014 in 27°C watching the sun going down while sipping a wee dram! Wonderful! The 2015 season had disappointing weather as July saw temperatures similar to January with plenty of rain. However it brightened up from August giving us an Indian summer, in which Flora and I had a wonderful October cruising in our traditional cruising grounds on the Clyde (sun bathing in Rothesay on 13 October). Once again the Journal is full of entertaining Logs from members and great to see Logs from the Juniors with thanks to the team of helpers headed by Lizzie Balmforth & Patrick Trust, for all their time and effort in producing

this wonderful publication which retains the essence to entertain, inform and inspire. I would encourage you all to send us your Logs and photos of your adventures in 2016. This is your Journal. At our recent Prize Giving it was great to see the prize winners’ delight when receiving their CCC Log trophies. Members will have plenty of opportunity for Log writing in 2016 with our many CCC events, Musters and Racing, including a Joint Cruise in company with RUYC for their 150th Anniversary at Bangor along with the ICC with a cruise to Jura and Tobermory planned; details of all will be in CCC Yearbook, Tidelines, website and Facebook page. Be sure to come along with your friends and family and support the CCC. Thanks to our Sailing Directions editors Edward Mason, Iain and Barbara MacLeod and all their helpers for the fantastic work they do in editing and producing our world renowned Sailing Directions (Club members get a discount), the new Orkney and Shetlands Directions are due soon plus update of Firth of Clyde Directions. Here’s to better weather and good sailing in 2016 hope to see you all on the water.

Clive Reeves – Commodore CCC, Lyrebird

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 5

Prizewinners 2015

Donald McNamara Trophy Awarded for a cruise of merit, unrestricted as to duration or size of yacht, but with no credit given for distance covered under power. Bill Logie, Eager Beaver

The Ogg Cup Cruise of Merit Under 21 Days Geoff Crowley, Contender

Cruising Club Of America Trophy

The Barra Cup The best log of the season submitted by a Junior Member. Thomas Matthews, Odyssey II

Awarded for a long distance voyage, cruise or achievement. Graham Boyd, Sula

Vatersay Cup

Coats Cup

A log of merit submitted by a Junior Member Emilie Turner, Caribou

The best cruise of the season. Tony Howard, Talwyn

R.G. Mowat Trophy

Murray Blair Trophy

Awarded for the best maritime narrative submitted, which is aligned with the aims and objectives of the Club. Ewan Buchanan, Skerryvore

Awarded for the best cruise in a smaller yacht. Mike Johnston, Arran Comrades

Caledonian Trophy Awarded to the winner of a Cruising Competition which is judged solely on the distance a yacht covers during its cruise, the anchorages visited and the routes taken. Charlie Craig, Monkey Business

6 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Coruisk Plate Awarded for the best photograph of the season submitted by a Club member. Shona Shields Dramatic section – Charlie Craig Humorous section – Charlie Craig Atmospheric section – Neil Spurway Ashore and Afloat section – Matthews Family

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Winner of the Coats Cup North of Ardnamurchan.

REFLECTIONS on 2015

Talwyn – Rustler 36 End of April to September Total 1400 nm

2015 was a mixed year; very mixed. Talwyn sailed some 1,400 nm, over nearly six months, mostly North of Ardnamurchan. There were some high spots, and more than a few low spots. Here are some memories of the season.

Easter near Oban The weather over Easter had seduced us – fitting out was glorious, the sky was blue, the loch sparkled, the hills were green with fresh foliage. I was thinking I should be sailing not working on the boat. The consoling thought was that this was a taste of the summer to come.

Two weeks later – 25 to 30 April Coming up from London on the overnight train to Fort William I remarked to the car sleeping steward that I had never seen so much snow on Ben Nevis at this time of the year. Little did I know that I would make

8 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

the same comment several times. At the yard Talwyn was in the water and gleaming with her topsides polished, ready to go; time to head North. Not unusually, the wind in the Sound of Mull headed us and, by the time we were approaching Loch Aline, we were beating with a reef and six rolls in the jib. We anchored in the usual place in the North-West corner and marvelled at how peaceful it was there. The log notes – ‘cold, heater on, might have been better to have stayed put’. It was a reach to Tobermory, under genoa only, with a cold front going through, rolling and unrolling the jib as the wind varied. It was foul with poor visibility and occasional sleet. Oh, where was the weather we had at Easter? This was the 27 April! Woke the next morning to find the cockpit covered in hail. Returned to bunk. Rounded Ardnamurchan. Glorious sail in a North/Northwest breeze to

Arisaig. The log notes – ‘chilly in the sun, much snow on the tops of the hills’.

Early May – South Skye I love the seas around Southern Skye and we spent several days in the area. A sail from Arisaig past the top of Rum was done in a decent wind, and the usual scenery was ‘enhanced’ by the unusual sight of so much snow on the tops. Canna was unusually empty; apparently Talwyn was only the fifth yacht in this season. The weather deteriorated with the 07:00 forecasts for East/South-East F 6-7-8. Stayed put for a couple of days. Anemometer stopped working, so spent some time investigating (unsuccessfully). By Monday the wind had veered further to the South and we departed towards Oronsay, up the Sound of Sleat. We managed to sail the whole way only using the motor to help pick up a mooring. The log notes –

Winner of the Coats Cup ‘Mountains everywhere. Beautiful. Not a bad day’’. Then the next weather system rolled in and it deteriorated again. The 07:00 forecast was for a North/ North-Easterly F7 increasing F9. Oronsay was not the right place to be. By lunchtime it was getting increasingly uncomfortable with the boat pitching badly; at times the base of the mooring buoy and chain were showing and I was getting worried about the security of the bridle and samson post. Another yacht had motored off to the North-East corner (Loch na Dal) and I decided to join them. The three moorings looked very unloved so I anchored. It was as calm as a mill pond. We then spent a few days in the Sound – Loch Hourn and Loch Nevis. We stopped in Mallaig to shop and send off the anemometer display unit to Raymarine for them to investigate. The marina fee for a short stay was £12.00, this seemed more vertical than steep – this isn’t the Solent. We then headed back to Canna. On Saturday it was a beautiful day and we went for a walk over Sanday. Come Sunday the forecast was mentioning a Southerly F9 later. Before breakfast I was out doubling up the mooring bridle, although I had a new rope-chain-rope bridle from Jimmy Green, which removes a lot of worry about chafe. Squally showers. During the morning a couple of very windblown yachts came in; picking up a mooring buoy in the circumstances must have been challenging. Heavy rain in the afternoon which continued overnight. The Monday morning forecast indicated it would blow out within 36 hours but not before getting worse. I think it was as windy as I have ever known it to be; a pity the anemometer was broken. It was getting dangerous to walk on the deck, the pull on the mooring was so great the buoy was all but submerged, but with no fetch there was no pitching and no worry about shock loads which had preoccupied me at Oronsay. I did wonder what the mooring was attached to on the sea floor – presumably a pretty hefty lump of concrete. The barometer

was so low it was off the dial – it was nearly meeting itself coming back. By Tuesday I had spent four days in Canna and was bored. Mid-afternoon things had moderated a lot, the wind had veered to a South-West/Westerly and I left for Rum, running under a furled jib in F5-6. The wind was blowing straight down the central valley at Loch Scresort and it was hard motoring to get to a relatively sheltered spot to anchor in the SouthWest corner off the old pier.

21 May – still a lot of snow on Ben Nevis, even on the South facing slopes. One of the pleasures of sailing on the North-West coast is the great variety of landscape in comparatively short distances. Nowhere is this more so than taking the Sound of Sleat North past Skye. The run (usually) up the Sound, with the grandeur of Loch Hourn to the East, with occasional glimpses of the Cuillins to the West; then the turbulent seas and whirlpools caused by the underwater cliff at the Southern end of the Kylerhea, the gorge of the Kyle, popping out of the top, with the dramatic view to starboard down Loch Duich of the Five Sisters of Kintail, and to port Raasay and the red and black Cuillins past Skye bridge. I have done it for some 40 years and it never fails to amaze me. Except this year – it was grey with drizzle with a bit too much headwind in the Kyle of Lochalsh. I

took shelter in Kyleakin, which was strangely empty, and took the bus over the bridge for a big shop.

23 to 27 May – Rona to Loch Ewe and Northwards to Lochinver The underwater activity in the Inner Sound seems to have increased of late so I took the inshore route through the Sound of Raasay. This is another sail I enjoy – some interesting navigation scooting past the islands in Broadford Bay, noting the two new beacons marking the Sgeir Thraid reef (which had escaped my chart updates), scraping past the top of Scalpay and the bottom of Raasay without having to tack, to a run up the Sound of Raasay. The mighty Cuillins, still with more than a fair covering of snow, and to Rona to say ‘hello’ to the island’s warden, Bill Cowie. A good day. I was a bit doubtful of the 07:00 forecast for Sunday for a West/NorthWesterly F5-6, but as the sun was out and it was expected to moderate I decided to have a go. We poked our nose out of the Caol Rona with thoughts of heading to Gairloch. I soon realised that with two reefs in the main and a few rolls in the jib we could harden up a bit and still make Rubha Rheidh headland without having to tack. This proved to be one of the best day’s sailing of the year. On a close reach Talwyn was going like a rocket – the log consistently

Broken shackle.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 9

Winner of the Coats Cup Seal pup Loch Claidh.

showing 7.5 Knts, and with a bit of tide, the GPS 8 Knts SOG. The coast from Gairloch to the lighthouse I always find a bit boring but today it was anything but boring. The eight miles or so was despatched in little over an hour. Two other yachts had left Rona with me; on the VHF I heard them talking, one said ‘This is what sailing is all about’. I tended to agree. They thought it was a F7, I reckoned that was a ‘yachtsman’s’ F7, more like a F6 but it was good. Pity there was no anemometer. Anchored Loch Ewe. Going North from here the Minch earns the title of one of the best cruising areas in the world. On the mainland there are the sandstone mountains of Torridon disappearing astern, while the more recent volcanic ‘lumps’ of Stac Pollaidh, Suilven and Quinag appear on the horizon; all the while the magnificent great headlands pass by culminating in Cape Wrath. The wind had moderated a bit and it was full sail to the Summer Islands. I have found in the past Ristol to be the best anchorage but this time the anchor would not hold in the clean white sand. I have not encountered much weed here before but twice I tried to anchor. The third time it seemed ‘not quite right’, I had hooked a rusty crate. Fourth time lucky! Lochinver is a village I have always liked – it is a North-Western

10 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

fishing village with its heart on its sleeve, it does exactly what it should do. It has a mixture of fishing, shopping (excellent butchers, a rarity) commerce and tourism. I got a bag of washing done at the old mission while having excellent fish and chips. A new (and expensive) anemometer display from Raymarine was waiting for me at the HM’s office; it didn’t work quite as it should. My friend Jeff and his brother from “down South” were in the area for a spot of trout fishing (no trout, however) and they joined us for dinner at Peet’s restaurant (excellent, and good value for money, must go more often).

31 May – Loch Nedd Past the Old Man of Stoer, Loch Nedd is a place I love. Not the easiest of places to find, tucked in behind a reef, but once inside, past the dog leg in the narrow wooded gulley, you could almost be in the Alps. The shelter in the tree lined inlet is complete, it was quiet with just a couple of prawn boats. But the 19:00 forecast indicated the weather was to get worse again with a F9 expected in 24 hours and I was not sure I wished to be stuck there, so a decision had to be made. To stay, would probably be okay, to return to Lochinver would mean a start at dawn to get the tide South round Stoer, or North to the ruggedness of

Kinlochbervie. Lochinver. Alarm set for dawn. At 05:00, with a bowl of porridge consumed and a mug of tea in the cockpit cubbyhole, the anchor was coming up, the final bit of chain appeared over the roller, the shank of the anchor then…Bang. The shackle holding the anchor onto the chain snapped, the anchor fell off the roller into 13 metres of cold, dark water. It took seconds to realise there was nothing to be done but to leave it there, carry on and sort things out when we got to Lochinver. Actually it was quite a nice early morning sail. It was breezy, with a reef in (I was getting used to this;) a run past Oldnay Island, then a close reach to Stoer, hardening up to get past the Old Man, a long beat in the fresh Southerly wind until we could tack and bear away to Loch Inver. As it was, we had gone a bit too far and it was a close reach with a few rolls in the jib;Talwyn was flying again. There was a tourist boat out on an early fishing trip. They motored close to have a look – no doubt we were part of the experience. By 10:00 we were back on the pontoon, bacon and sausages grilling for part two of breakfast.The skipper of the tourist boat came back and he remarked that we had ‘looked quite tidy’. I think this was praise. Pippler’s of Poole were

Winner of the Coats Cup contacted and a replacement 20Kg Rocna was on its way and they would throw in a new tested two ton shackle in the price (the old shackle was new this year, but a standard galvanised one from the local chandlers).

24 June to 5 July – Outer Hebrides The 07:00 forecast was for an East/ North-Easterly F3-4. At last the Gods were smiling at me. Headed to the Outer Hebrides, spent a night in Canna, then off to Eriskay. The sun was out, with a following breeze so we could get out the cruising chute – first time this year. It didn’t last, a front moved in, the visibility went and it returned to the customary grey with a persistent drizzle. It was quite difficult to make out the leading marks for the entrance to Eriskay. I have never found the Outer Hebrides as attractive as the Highlands. I consider Castlebay over rated – exposed to the South and with the noisy main road bordering the shore. The main ports of Lochboisdale, Lochmaddy and Tarbert are blighted by the ferry terminals, with the ferry

coming in some nights (hint – carry a ferry timetable). I try to avoid them. Eriskay is always worth a couple of nights. Getting the right combination of tides and weather to visit Loch Eynort always seems problematic. Bob Bradfield’s survey for the Antares Chart removes some of the previous uncertainty, with the wind from the South-East and blowing straight into the inner loch this was not the day to be visit Loch Eynort. Headed for Loch Skipport for the night, anchoring in Poll na Cailidh which I now prefer to Wizard Pool or Caolas Pool, especially as much of the fish farm equipment is cleared. At Lochmaddy I always enjoyed picking up one of the moorings off the wee pier, especially as it was usually possible to get some mackerel or shellfish from the fisherman but the moorings have now been removed. As there was a ‘bit of a blow’ forecast I anchored in good shelter beside the buoys in Ardmaddy Bay. Two or three other yachts had the same idea. Next stop was Loch Stocknish, especially as it is a good

spot to refuel – the pump is much more ‘small boat friendly’ than others in the area. Nosing Talwyn into the old pier at low water, leaving the green starboard beacon to port was a nerve-racking experience, however there was plenty of water this time. Onwards to Scalpay North Harbour. Crossing the Sound of Harris the seas were confused where the East going stream meets the North going streams, not helped by the following wind; never the most comfortable point of sailing. Note in the log – ‘misty, uncomfortable, looks brighter over the mainland’.

1 July Scalpay – to Loch Claidh to Shiants to Dunvegan We took the morning bus into Tarbert for shopping. I thought that all the other passengers had unusually broad Scottish accents until I realised that they were all speaking Gaelic. In the afternoon headed off North under the bridge which has a charted clearance of 19 metres, the first time for Talwyn. Talwyn’s air draft is a reported 16 metres plus a bit for

Alpha at Dunvegan.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 11

Winner of the Coats Cup aerials. It was low water but even so it was a slightly heart stopping moment. Do not think I will try it at HWS (high water springs). The weather was still dull. Crossing the mouth of Loch Seaforth the vista was a symphony of greys – grey sea, grey mountain, grey sky. A small fishing boat motoring back to Scalpay was the only splash of colour in the monochromatic landscape. I have always liked the compact anchorage behind the island in Loch Claidh. It is one of my favourite spots in the Outer Hebrides. Today, even before the anchor was down a seal pup was swimming beside the boat, I could see its mother trying to head it away but it was persistent. It was very young and very excited by our presence giving high pitched yelps as to say ‘look at me, look at me, look at my swimming’. Occasionally it dived but then popped up again. For nearly two hours it exercised, always swimming clockwise, round Talwyn before getting bored. I returned a month later but by then it had grown and we were of no interest

8 July – Dunvegan This is a dreary place, but there was laundry to be done and the machine at the campsite is convenient. It was good to see the moorings re-instated by the local community. I called in at Stein to see my friend Peter, then, with an indifferent forecast it was back to Dunvegan but this time to anchor in the pool below the castle – so much nicer than off the village. Note in the log ‘good Northerly breeze, white horses in the loch, glad I am not out at sea...’. When is summer coming? A beautiful Bristol channel pilot cutter came in – Alpha – crewed by a Dutch couple. It must be challenging sailing that boat, with a draft of nearly three metres, in the area. I saw it a couple of days later, full sail, heading for Stornoway; it looked magnificent.

27 July – Loch Erisort Each year I try to find one or two places that I have not visited before. It is getting increasingly difficult but this loch is one I have often passed by. Interesting pilotage in the entrance and through to the inner loch. It was

12 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

all quite exposed to the fresh Easterly so returned to the rock strewn pool of Loch Thorasdaidh. I could see the masts of a tall ship and thought ‘if that can make it so can we’. It was the French registered ‘Notre Dame des Flots’ and she looked very nice. A well sheltered anchorage – so well sheltered that the next day I had underestimated the wind and lost my hat as we came out.

End July to early August – Ullapool Really nice sail from Loch Claidh to Badachro with a lunch stop in the Shiant Isles. The Northern cliffs of Garbh Eilean have some of the most magnificent granite columns, greater than those on Staffa, but are difficult to see as the sun is never right. Alive with puffins, as always. One day the weather will be right for an overnight stay but with a Southerly F5-6-possibly F7 forecast it was on to Gairloch. Managed to harden up the sheets and to squeeze through the channel North of Longa island all on one tack. At anchor in Badachro for three nights as the promised Southerly turned into an Easterly. Note in the log ‘grey wet sullen morning. Cold!’. After a couple of days another weather window opened up and I had a good sail to Ullapool. Not a place I often visit as it is off the beaten track but with another bad forecast the visitor mooring buoys seemed attractive. I think there was only one other yacht there – surprising for the school holiday season. It was three days before we could get away. After my earlier experience of anchoring in the Summer Islands at Ristol I thought I would give Tanera Beg a try. The last time I was there was 2003 on our way back from the Faroe Islands just after the Juno had run aground on the island. Here is another place where Antares Charts have reduced the uncertainty, but even so I took the narrow Northern channel dead slow. It really is an attractive spot.

22 August – Charlestown, Gairloch On the pontoon I met CCC member Iain MacLeod; a couple of years previously we had shared a table at

the annual dinner. He was crewing for a friend on a Hallberg-Rassy 31. We left together in the morning heading for Rona. The wind was a fresh South/South-Westerly, enough to justify a reef and a few rolls in the genoa. It was interesting to compare the performance – my very traditional long keel Rustler 36 with long overhangs, to the more modern, but still conservative fin and skeg Hallberg Rassy 31 – shorter but with a slightly longer waterline. We made one long tack all the way to the Skye shore with nothing much between us. The wind got a bit ‘fluky’ then but we managed to lay the entrance to Rona in one tack. An enjoyable day.

28 to 29 August – Isle Ornsay Coming South through the narrows of Kylerhea the wind piped up on the nose (gusting 27 Knts). A tack well to the East avoided the worst of the overfalls and it looked as if we could just lay the entrance of Isle Ornsay when the wind dropped, and went through 40°. Grey and black over Loch Hourn, but sunny over Skye. The barometer was rising after three days at a very low level. Forecast was South/South-Westerly F5-7 In the morning a couple of yachts departed heading South with triple reefed mains. I was in no hurry so I stayed. About lunchtime an Armadale charter boat heading South came in looking very wet. They stayed for lunch then off again, presumably to get back at the end of the charter as it was a Friday. CCC Longbow of Argyll came in looking very elegant, but then she is a Bowman 57.

1 September – Loch Scresort, Rum to Tobermory Time to go home. At last a fair wind for a few days. Had the cruising chute up. At 13:00 the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse was abeam; exactly five months and 1200 nm had passed since we were last here. Surely next year must be better.

By Tony Howard, Talwyn

Winner of the Donald McNamara Trophy

Once Round The Block Eager Beaver – Sadler 32 Crinan round the North of Scotland to Orkney, and back through the Caledonian Canal. Sadler 32 of 1982, 25 feet on the waterline, 31½ feet overall, 16hp Yanmar engine. Crew: To Wick – Skipper, Bill Logie, his son Alexander and an ex-army colleague of his, Matt. At Wick they were replaced by the Skipper’s wife, Alison. Sunday 5 July to Monday 27 July Sailing 163 nm Motor–sailing 218 nm Motoring 138 nm

he tone of the voyage may have been set by the text conversation about a week before departure. Bill’s text read “Laying in victuals for sailing, beer or lager?” Alex: “Slight lager preference probably although a light beer would do just as well. What can I bring? Gin, whisky, wine?” Bill: “I think we will be fairly well stocked to start with.” Alex: “Great. Also opportunities to stock on route – Oban, Tobermory, Talisker, Highland Park, Scapa, Old Pulteney, Clynelish, Glenmorangie, Balblair, Dalmore all walking distance from the sea!”

Dawn – and Hoy.

14 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

It was not the liquor that required the two trips in the dinghy to get everything on board on Sunday 5 July, just the normal baggage and provisions. We dropped the mooring at 12:50 under big but bright clouds and threats of rain which caught us now and again. There was little wind, from the South, so we had to motor up the Sound of Luing. Many yachts – perhaps a dozen – were motoring up round the South of Mull which we took to be boats abandoning a race for lack of wind. The tide carried us round Duart but it faded somewhat in the Sound of Mull and around 18:00 we got about an hour of sailing, but the motor had

to do the rest. Towards Tobermory we heated up Alison’s earlier prepared chicken in wine, and it was served to the crew on deck, while the skipper dined alone in the saloon. So arriving in Tobermory at 20:30 we were all finished and Alexander had washed up. Idle moments on the passage had led to discussion about the merits of fish farming – it was considered to be akin to battery farming. Would it not be much better to use the intelligence of dolphins to act as sheepdogs to herd free ranging shoals? We weren’t clear as to how the dolphins would be able to blow their whistles to control the fish herds – the bubbles might be confusing.

Winner of the Donald McNamara Trophy

We went ashore in Tobermory for a brief stroll and drink in the McGoughan Pub, but were driven outside by the noise of loud music and shrill girls. It was worse than the midges outside! Then back aboard, to admire the 22:10 sunset. All the crew were ready for bed, and amazed to consider how long ago yesterday seemed. The morning brought sun through the curtains, and a gentle start led us out into the sound; mist across on Morvern and a light South-Easterly wind enabled us to goose-wing at 3.5 Knts, but all day the wind toyed with us and for the most part we motored. We passed Eigg to the Sound of Sleat. There were a few shearwaters about; distant porpoises, but generally a lack of wildlife. The sun held strongly until we were up by Armadale when we were overtaken by heavy cloud. At Isle Oronsay it was raining and we dropped anchor in the bay at 17:00, after having been warned off a rock by a local in his motor dinghy. Good man! Thoughts of going ashore dissolved in the growing rain. The wind shifted to the North-East, and increased to make us uncomfortable, so towards the end of a game of scrabble, at 21:00, we moved over to Loch na Dal, off Kinloch Lodge, and anchored in six metres. A brief glimpse of an otter. Not a perfect anchorage, but better than where we were before. Our sleep was disturbed by the rain and the need to curb the rattling wind generator. The morning was still damp, and the anchor came up at 07:00 with a mass of weed and mud – so good to have strong crew to address such difficulties. The tide was still flooding strongly as we went through Kyle Rhea, and then into Loch Alsh. Now there was light drizzle, and the wind was too light from the Southeast to sail. To get diesel and water we stopped at the Kyle of Lochalsh pontoon, but

finally discovered that they were on the occupied commercial pier. Since we had enough to keep going we made tracks for Portree. Just after the bridge, we got a fine Force 4/5/6 from the South West which gave us an excellent fetch past Scalpay and a reach up the Inner Sound to Portree. Cold and damp, though. We were there at lunch time, picked up a visitor’s mooring, then went ashore for a look around, and a shower. In the evening the crew were ashore when the wind blew up, making for a very anxious row back to Eager Beaver. The winds stayed high, and we stayed put. To top up the water tanks we ferried containers from the shore, and finding that we had brought too much wondered whether that reflected the cleaning habits of males on a boat. It was a domestic day, enlivened by early evening drinks aboard a neighbouring motor cruiser. Next morning was damp but quiet, and we left at 06:20, motoring North in a rather lumpy sea under a light Southerly wind. The plan was to reach the Summer Isles at least, but we carried on to Lochinver. It was a long day with hints of sun bidding

for supremacy over heavy squalls. Our spirits soared with the sight of distant fins and the approach of dolphins, going out of their way to come and play. Rising, blowing and whistling, diving around and under the boat. They played their games for about five minutes and then they were off again. We carried on, enlivened, and though disappointed that we had not sailed much, pleased that we had made 60 miles in the right direction. At Lochinver and the forecast was bad, so we stayed put on the pontoons for four nights. Lochinver is a pretty place once past the fishing complexes, which were interesting, and we were able to enjoy good pub life and healthy walks. As it turned out, we might have gone on to Kinlochbervie, but we felt happy in Lochinver. The wind whistled up the loch and through the rigging, so we felt justified in staying. Domestic washing was done, and a temporary fix to stop rain running down cable leads from the mast. On Monday we were ready to leave and set off about 10:00, timed to catch the favourable tide round Cape Wrath. One reef and a lovely

Ben Nevis.

Sketches top of page, left to right: Leaving Portree, Lochinver, Tobermory.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 15

Winner of the Donald McNamara Trophy

reach out to Stoer Head, where waves were building up with wind over tide, giving us an uncomfortable ride. Round the corner the wind was astern and exacerbated the situation, and tacking downwind did not help much. Again dolphins brought great diversion, this time a bigger group, with all sizes playing with us and each other. We reached Cape Wrath at 18:00, feeling that a favourable wind has disadvantages, but nevertheless thankful that we had not been beating into it. At the Cape the North coast opened up and in the light and shade of sun and cloud it was most pretty. The seas flattened, and with the good breeze we decided to press on, but hauled into Sango bay below Durness where we rustled up an excellent Bolognese. Here it was a bit gusty at anchor, but calm enough. At 21:00 we were off again and romped along for an hour before the wind dropped and we resorted to motor-sailing. W took watches in the night, two at a time on deck, one below. The dawn seemed a long time coming, but at 04:30 the sun came up in the streaky clouds, and the low bulk of Hoy appeared and crept slowly nearer. Into the Sound at 06:00 with an outbound ferry towering above us. We were glad to tie up on a pontoon in Stromness at 07:00. Stromness is such a delightful town, and its maritime history can’t fail to impress. Walking along the narrow wynds induces the sailors’ rolling gait (if one didn’t have it already!). The following day we were able to take a tourist bus to visit the wonderful prehistoric Cape Wrath to Starboard.

sites, and go back further in time. That evening we left Stromness in glorious calm sunshine and motored round the fringes of Scapa Flow to Longhope, where we picked up a mooring for the night. Such tranquillity! The morning was even more striking with a glassy sea, and we motored along the sleeping loch at 06:00 to work our way out into the Pentland Firth. We followed the sailing directions implicitly, to creep along the SouthWest coast to the West using a backeddy, before heading out into the Firth. But there was no back eddy, and we had to fight a strong Northerly flow before getting sufficiently far to the West to carry the tide South of Swona. A beautiful calm day for the crossing, but how the eddies and upflows spoke of the turmoil that could come from strong wind over tide. We had a favourable 5 Knts of current. We passed the campervan camp at John O’Groats, then Duncansby Head, with its cliffs and stacks. Wick came up two hours later, and the wind arrived gently from the South-East. We tied up on a pontoon and made ourselves at home before heading out to see the sights, and especially the Old Pulteney Distillery. In spite of earlier considerations, there hadn’t yet been the need to replenish stocks. During the day the wind steadily increased, and then the rain, and it continued throughout the night and into the next day. It was most unpleasant, and Wick, once so glorious is needing some investment. The museum is a charming Aladdin’s cave of Wick’s past and present, and was out of the rain. By the evening, however, the weather was fine, and added to the delight of meeting Alison off the train, in preparation for the crew change. Back on the pontoons we stopped to talk to a “live-aboard” couple on a Sigma 33, very neatly arranged, and then on Eager Beaver found our crew entertaining a neighbouring Dutch couple. We still had some whisky

Sketches top of page, left to right: Dolphins, Longhope, Lock.

16 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

and port, they had Grappa, and the supplies lasted till midnight, and we were able to sit in the cockpit all evening. The following morning, Saturday 28 July, and the weather was unsettled again. We headed for the Caithness Show, but felt the mud and rain were too high a price to pay, and retreated to a pub, again. Then the young men set off on their train, and Alison and Skipper stocked up – not forgetting to replenish the whisky supplies. Next morning was a 07:30 reveille and we motored out in calm conditions, overcast and with a very slight sea, heading for Helmsdale, 30 nm away. In sight were the fine red cliffs, fulmars, occasional puffins, guillemots and large porpoises in the distance. It was almost windless, but chilly and damp, with rain squalls scattered about.They missed us until the approach to Helmsdale, though rain faded as we entered the narrow and shallow entrance; there was not much water under the keel.The harbour is small and occupied in the main by fishing – creel boats. Behind us on the pontoon a couple of yachts were in need of some attention. Having arrived at 14:15 we had time to look around – a smart modern museum and café, and the fine Telford bridge. We sought guidance from the local fishermen and harbourmaster about the channel depths, so we could plan our departure – ugh! 05:30 was half flood, but since we were both awake at 04:30 after a short and restless night, we left early, at 04:45. We eased our way out but had plenty of water – about 1.5 metres under the keel – we might have slept longer. It was a lovely morning, not long after sunrise, and we had a modest South-East breeze to which we set full sail. It picked up to F4, so we had a great romp along on a close reach. It was excellent sailing except for the temperature, which called for all our cold weather gear.

Winner of the Donald McNamara Trophy

In the Cromarty Firth the wind faded and the iron topsail was deployed. Nigg Bay stacked up with surreal drilling rigs, then we weaved our way round Riff Bank towards Fort George where there were a number of bottlenose dolphins, but they weren’t as playful as their West coast cousins. On the shore there were many photographers trying to get the views that we had so readily. Kessock Bridge loomed up and then we were busy sorting out canal entrance requirements, and watching the strong currents and close shallows. We locked in with the magnificent Bloodhound, on passage from its home in Leith to a West coast charter. We spent a night at the Seaport Marina, and then the next day had the morning going up four locks and a gentle canal passage before we got to Loch Ness. There the wind and rain hit us, sweeping up the loch into our faces. It would have been sailable with a couple of reefs, but hard work, and “gentlemen don’t sail to windward!” We felt guilty as we went past a French boat, barely larger than Eager Beaver, which was battling its way under canvas. They had youth on their side – a seven year old. It was good to get into Fort Augustus where

there was a bit of shelter, but not much pontoon space. An attractive spot but sad to see that a couple of prominent shops and cafés had closed. The next morning was bright and we were up early. There was some general uncertainty about how the numerous boats would proceed; which would have priority, but the canal staff sorted things for us and let us know their plan. We were to go in the first locking-up with four cruisers, three yachts including Eager Beaver, with smaller Alma tied alongside; their crew would help with “walking up” from lock to lock – there were five of them in a row. Starting at 09:45, it took to noon. From there it was a procession of boats through swing bridges and another lock and into Loch Oich. The scenery became grander, but wind and cold rain squalls detracted from the pleasure. At the South end of Loch Oich lies a swing bridge and then Laggan Locks. We decided to stop there and, it being a pretty spot and spend an extra night. An old converted Dutch coal barge provides good food and drink, and there is a pleasant walk through woods. On Friday 24 July we were up promptly and ready for the first locking down at 08:45. It took us into Loch

Caledonian Canal.

Lochy where the wind was light but chilly from the South-West, and though the sun and clouds were pretty, they included some short cold showers.The loch has steep wooded sides, occasional settlements, hotels, lodges and campers; an old rail track running alongside. Then Gairlochy, another pretty hamlet, and on to the final stretch of canal before Neptune’s Staircase, the flight of eight locks that leads down to Corpach. We went down them in the afternoon, walking Eager Beaver through with help from the lockkeeper.We spent a pleasant night on a pontoon, and the sound of the steam train over the bank. Next morning we had to wait while the seemingly enormous Monarch of the Glens was locked up from Corpach. As big a boat as could fit into the locks – it was a tight squeeze and seemed to fill the canal itself. Our turn came and we locked-down into the final basin and then the sea, at 10:00. By 11:00 we were under full sail beating down Loch Linnhe though the wind was somewhat fickle and we decided to motor-sail through the Corran narrows.Then we were sailing in squalls and light rain, and into Oban bay, following some huge superyacht.We motored down to Puilladobhrain and at 18:00 the wind was now light and the sky settled. In the brilliant calm of the evening it was hard to believe the forecast was for a F7. In the morning too it was peaceful, and though rain started at midday, it came without wind. Puilladobhrain must be so sheltered? Next day, the 27 July, we had a latish start to allow for tides at Fladda, but had an excellent sail, initially a gentle run, and then a close reach and beat through the Dorus Mor to Crinan and home. We had done too much motoring in the 520 miles, but it was an excellent trip with contrasts of West and East coasts.

By Bill Logie, Eager Beaver

Sketches top of page, left to right: Wick Docking, Stromness Arrival, Fort Augustus.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 17

Winner of the CCA Trophy

Sula Philippines Part II Sula – Amel Super Maramu 52 ft Ketch built 1995

CREW Hong Kong to Subic Bay: Graham Boyd, Alain Bedard, Malcolm Waters, Chris Hazzard, Mawgan Grace Subic to El Nido return or part there of: Graham Boyd, Anne Maclean, Helen Holden, Dave Holden, Brian Hunter, Sharon Hunter, James Oliver, Susan Oliver Subic Bay to Hong Kong: Graham Boyd, Alain Bedard, Malcolm Waters, Guy Malpas, Guy Wilkinson STATISTICS Hong Kong to Subic: Sail 124 nm motor / sail 480nm Total 604 nm (83 hrs) Subic, El Nido, Subic: Sail 392 nm motor / motor – sail 355 nm Total 747 nm Subic to Hong Kong: Sail 140 nm motor / sail 463 Total 603 nm (86.5 hrs) Totals: Sail 656 nm motor-sail / motor 1298 nm Total 1954 nm

Sula El Nido Area.

fter a hugely successful cruise to Busuanga Philippines in 2013, and a year of land based holidays in 2014, we were ready in 2015 for another adventure afloat. The problem was where to go from Hong Kong in the time available? Sula is sailed and

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raced extensively all year round and given the distances involved in taking her to Malaysia or Thailand, this was not going to work. It would have to be the Philippines again, destination El Nido Palawan. This is the Philippine answer to the world famous Halong Bay in Vietnam,

but without the crowds and endless tour boats, and with excellent water quality. Given this would cover a lot of the ground we covered in 2013, and we did not just want a repeat of our previous cruise (brilliant as it was), we introduced a few changes. Deliveries to and from Subic bay

Winner of the CCA Trophy Matinloc Channel.

were completed in five days with crews selected from work colleagues and, in order to facilitate a higher level of perceived security, we elected to invite more crew to join us for the cruise down to Palawan. Just before departure from Hong Kong for Subic Bay (600 nm SW) in late February, Sula’s 20 year old engine suffered a seal failure which meant a loss of all the oil into the bilge. Fortunately this was spotted before the engine seized. Given it was Chinese New Year (the one time in the year Hong Kong actually stops) finding the correct new seal proved “interesting”. To make matters worse the forecast for the passage was for unseasonably light winds and we had to average 6-7 Knts to get everyone back to work in time. In the event the trusty Volvo performed flawlessly and a happy crew arrived in Subic on 26 February on schedule (66 hrs motor – sailing out of 83 hrs in total). In early March, Annie and I flew to Subic where we met up with Dave and Helen Holden (CCC members, Seewolf II) who had been using Sula as their hotel for the previous week. Having had to cut their trip short at this point two years ago for family

reasons, they were keen to get going. After stocking the boat for four to six crew for three weeks, we were on our way, destination Apo Reef. It was a stunning overnight passage, with a full moon and clear sky. Once past the Lubang Islands the wind piped up to 30 Knts and Sula flew along in flat seas. This was night sailing at its best. At 09:00 (after 153 nm logged in 22.5 hrs) we picked up a mooring at Apo Island, set the swim ladder, and settled down to a relaxed breakfast, what a morning! Very keen to be in the water with all the wild life we were soon kitted up for snorkeling.

A quick scan round the boat before diving in revealed… there was no swim ladder. Someone (probably me) had forgotten the securing pin, what a disaster! Assuming that the fender that had been attached to the ladder for the past 10 years would keep it afloat, we spent a fruitless hour in the dinghy searching for the fender, to no avail. After trying to work out how I might make a replacement ladder, it dawned on me that there was a chance it might just have sunk when it fell off. Unfortunately our mooring was at the top of a coral cliff. There was about 10 metres depth under

Snake Bay.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 19

Winner of the CCA Trophy

Sula Philippines Part II Snake Bay.

the keel but over the edge of the cliff it plunged vertically to a depth of 300 metres, and during our searches the tide had changed and Sula had swung out over the “deep” part of the cliff. I set off for a last search for the ladder, snorkeling along the cliff edge, and bingo there it was, hanging by a single rung on a piece of coral right at the top of the cliff! We had one chance to retrieve the ladder. Back now in the dinghy with Annie and Helen paddling against a pretty strong current, I hung over the bow with the dinghy anchor in hand and after several attempts, I managed to hook the ladder. It was secured precariously and the girls then paddled like mad for the shallow water whilst I very gingerly raised the wobbly “catch”… the holiday could now begin. The time spent at Apo was every bit as spectacular as two years previously, but thankfully this time we were spared the 25 Knts gusts while anchored in 30 m in the reef. Over the next few days we explored several new anchorages on the East and South of Busuanga. Of particular note were the two nights spent tied to the massive cliffs at the anchorage at the North end of Coron Island, Kayangan

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Lake. This was a tight spot for Sula and having Dave and Helen on board made it all possible. Also of note was Helen’s ability in befriending turtles in this fine spot. They had been swimming around the boat all day long, and before the obligatory sundowner Helen decided a swim was in order. Needless to say the turtles were not amused when she banged into one of them receiving two pretty vicious bites in the process. Ah well… extra strong refreshments that night! Next stop was Culion Island where we spent a very interesting morning exploring the former Leper Colony set up by the Americans in the early 1900s, as part of their public health policy for the Philippines. Thereafter we had a very pleasant afternoon at South Quay and its stunning beaches, before continuing to Porto del Sol. Our first week had just flown by and it was time for Brian and Sharon Hunter (regular Sula crew in Hong Kong) to join us by air from Manila. Now we needed to press on South towards Palawan. After a cracking close fetch in 25 Knts down the West side of Busuanga we spent a rather gusty night in the beautiful South

Arm of Halsey Harbour (named after the US World War 2 Admiral). Next day it was on to explore the bays and beaches on the North side of Linapacan Island (completely tourist free). Our visit was made a little more difficult by the extensive pearl farms in this area. The wind was holding up well so we continued South West rounding the North end of Palawan in perfect sailing conditions. We seemed to be whizzing past endless perfect bays with deserted sandy beaches. Eventually we just picked one at random and headed in to anchor. Once ashore we stumbled across a tiny beach bar and eventually found someone to serve us, well actually, climb the tree to hack down some fresh coconuts. It turned out that the Swiss owner of this establishment had a very “swanky” house further up the hill, and in order to be able to purchase the land for this he had to promise to build a “resort”. This he had duly done: one bar and one beach hut! Heading back to Sula from this idyllic spot was not quite so good. As the sun was setting all six of us were literally eaten alive by sand flies, coming out in huge chicken-pox type lumps that, for

Winner of the CCA Trophy some, lasted over a month. The joys of tropical sailing... Scottish midges... all is forgiven! The next few days were spent exploring the stunningly beautiful El Nido area. Anchorages are all notoriously deep and during the North East monsoon, winds are constantly strong making quiet nights at anchor “difficult”. We were lucky in that a tropical depression to the East of the Philippines had the effect of killing off the strong winds for the duration of our stay, allowing very leisurely cruising and comfortable nights in some fairly dramatic and exposed anchorages. Of particular note was the stunning beach at Snake Bay, the spectacular steep cliff lined narrow Channel at Matinloc, rowing into the cave on Pinsail Island, and white sandy beaches at the bottom of 1000 ft cliffs…everywhere! After four glorious days, time was running out for the Holden’s and the Hunter’s, so we headed to El Nido town for our first taste of “civilisation” in two weeks. A crew meal ashore in a remarkably good restaurant in a town more used to back packers, preceded a sad farewell to the Holdens who left on a bus going South to Porto Princesa and flights back to Glasgow, and the Hunters who left on a plane to Manila and Hong Kong. We bought what provisions we could, and some diesel for the return trip to Subic Bay and awaited the arrival of James and Susan Oliver from Hong Kong.They are veterans of our

somewhat rough passage home to Hong Kong from Subic in 2013, so we were all looking forward to some more relaxed cruising this time around. After a further day in the El Nido area we set off North and East. By now the more seasonal winds had returned and we had some quite strong head winds to contend with on our way North. A rendezvous had been arranged with the only cruising boat we met on the whole trip, Square Bear, a Seawind catamaran owned by Hong Kong friends, on a very similar cruise to ours. The party was to be held in South Bay, Linapacan Island.The paper and electronic charts suggested the bay was clear of obstructions. Sula confidently led the way in, sun behind us, and Annie on the bow wearing her ‘polaroids’ looking out for rogue coral heads. Text-book stuff which we’d done many times before. I was on the helm and 5 Knts seemed reasonable to me…until Annie was screaming at me to stop! We shuddered to a halt with the bow right over a coral reef…goodness only knows why we did not hit, but I am now a huge fan of Sula’s max-prop reverse thrust capabilities. Later, whilst sipping (actually gulping) a calming Gin and Tonic, I used that wonderful 4G internet connection, one can get everywhere in the Philippines, to take a peek at Google Earth and there it all was as clear as day, how stupid could I have been? Believing charts, probably surveyed by Magellan isn’t such a good idea. After a long beat into a strong North Easterly the following day we

were back in the Busuanga area for a great evening at Porto Del Sol with Hong Kong friends Rory and Shelly Larkin on board their 65ft steel ocean going motor boat ShellyB. Their war stories of riding out Typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda, famous for destroying Tacloban) were eye watering. It was a very enlightening evening. Unfortunately at this point, Annie was stung by something in the sand just off the beach resulting in a very swollen and uncomfortable leg for the last few days of the trip. Our resident doctor, James, did a great job in prescribing lots of drugs and reassurance. A final day in amongst the sandy coral atolls on the West of Busuanga and it was time for the passage back to Subic. We left the remote Illultuk Bay in a North Easterly F8, very well reefed and expecting a bouncy 24 hours. Within two hours we were motoring on flat calm seas, but not for long, as the wind reappeared from the East. The moon was bright and we had another amazing night sail in 30 Knts or more of breeze, which passed all too quickly. The wind held more or less all the way to Subic, and after frustratingly being moved on from one anchorage by the police we found a fine spot in Port Binanga for our final night at anchor (171 nm / 24 hrs) before entering the marina and flying home. We had three fantastic weeks with wind when needed, one day of clouds and one shower. Sula remained in Subic until the first week in May, the first opportunity there was for the passage home. This was just in time as the first typhoons are not unheard of at this time of year. Five of us flew down just as the second typhoon of the season was forming to the South East of Luzon. After some serious questioning of the “old hands” in the marina, we concluded this one would be very slow moving. Careful monitoring by Annie in Hong Kong and plenty of sat-phone calls later, we arrived back at our Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club mooring after a three and a half day motor-sail. Oh for more time!

By Graham Boyd, Skipper SY Sula Endless sandy beaches.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 21

Winner of the Vatersay Cup

West Highland Week on Caribou by Emilie, Age 9 Caribou – Moody 42

n the summer holidays me, my dad and my brother Ben went sailing on my mum and dad’s friend’s boat called Caribou. Caribou is quite a big boat compared to my Excalibur, Excalibur is white and red, and Caribou is white and blue and has a big mast that you can climb. We started at Ardrishaig at the Crinan Canal and met Charlie, Harry and India. We also met Murray and Victoria, their dad & mum, and went on Caribou with them. India was only two so I looked after her. We had

fun all day exploring the boat. My cabin was at the front of the boat, it was very warm and big. We stayed at Cairnbaan on the first night and had tea at the hotel, I think I had chicken nuggets for dinner and we met Ross and Nick from Cruinneag. 1 August: In the morning we went for a cycle along the canal, then opened all the locks for Caribou. At the end we got onboard the boat and I climbed up the mast while going along the canal. When I came down we left the canal out to sea

and headed for Croabh Haven with Charlie’s pap and nan as it was a lovely day. At the Dorus Mor I stood at the bow of the boat all the way through. The waves splashed at the boat but didn’t hit me. We all had safety lines on when we were on deck to keep us onboard. We sailed to Croabh Haven, I was at the front and everyone got a shot of helming the boat. After my brother Ben had his go he fell asleep on the top deck until we reached the marina. Crinan Basin.

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Winner of the Vatersay Cup

Tobermory Shopping Trip, Ben and Emilie.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 23

Winner of the Vatersay Cup

Crinan Sealock – Emilie and Ben, Caribou.

There were lots of boats and we went to see friends on Cruineag, a big old wooden boat at the end of the pontoon. Ross and Nick showed us round the boat, which had just arrived back from America. Then we went up to the grass, in our lifejackets, and played with our friends from other boats. 2 August: We joined in the race round the island Shuna as part of West Highland Week. During the race Charlie, Harry, Ben and I tried to splash boats with water pistols, especially Misjif. All the boats stayed away because they were scared. We only did one lap while most did two laps, however we did get back to the marina before the rain started. In the afternoon we tried to throw tennis balls into a paddling pool floating in the marina. Some of us went to collect the balls back, but I went behind the wall and collected leaves and flowers. Ben made £7 collecting balls in the dinghy! 3 August: The next day we had a race to Kerrera with all the other boats. Before we left we had a tour on a big catermaran called Curanta Crione with a nice French Skipper. It was huge!

24 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

During the race we sailed past the islands of Seil, Luing and Lunga while all the boats sailed past with colourful spinnakers, one was pink with a big purple love heart. Some boats came closer and we were able to shoot water at them. Eventually all the boats passed and we finished just before teatime at Oban Marina, on the island of Kerrera. At Kerrera people were swinging on the masts of their boats. I was Emilie steering, Sound of Mull.

swinging on Caribou’s mast in the bosuns chair too using a halyard. All our friends had a shot. Ella, Eriskay and Lara’s boat had a seat as well, so did Robbie’s. Some people played on their mast until it was dark. 4 August: It was due to rain so we first decided to go to Oban for a day ashore on the wee ferry. We went swimming, played in softplay and got sweets and ice cream. We missed the rain and the windy race, but didn’t

Winner of the Vatersay Cup

Olivia and Emilie – Tighnabruaich Sailing School.

mind. It cleared up when we got back to Kerrera so we explored the island and then had seafood for dinner in a restaurant. Mummy arrived in Oban and came over for dinner. 5 August: We planned a surprise birthday for Susie on her boat, Odyssey, 14 people hid onboard and jumped out when she came back. All the children hid in Tom and Harry’s cabin. There were 10 children and 4 adults. After the surprise Ella, Eriskay and Lara’s mum and dad came to see us all for Susie’s birthday. We left early as everybody else had to wait till the race started, it was raining when we left and the wind was blowing quite

hard. We were heading for Tobermory on the Isle of Mull. Later we heard that one boat broke it’s mast on the way, we were lucky and stayed almost dry most of the way. When we arrived all the adults went to the ‘Mishnish’, a big yellow building full of people. We went back to the boat to play games. 6 August: In the morning dad, Ben and I went to the Sea Life Centre, I got a toy, a cute white tipped shark. We held three starfish, a spider crab and sun star. It was good fun. We went back to the boat as we were heading back to the Crinan canal. As we left the harbour Ella,

Erikay and Lara tried to get us with water pistols but we stayed clear. I was looking after India in her seat as we motored into the sea. The crazy boys stuck their heads out of the side of the hood and they got splashed. It took all day to get there but we had great fun. On the way I took India up on deck with our sleeping bags as we arrived at Crinan in the sunshine. We played in the sunset that night in Crinan basin. 7 August: It was another lovely day so I went up the mast with Sharkey as we travelled through the canal. The boys ran ahead to open the gates for the locks. When we got to the end of the canal we waited and met a big dog on a German boat. Then we sailed down Loch Fyne to Portavadie for the night. Charlie, Harry and India and their mum and dad had to leave the boat to go to Glasgow that night. We were sad to see them go but stayed one more night to tidy the boat and experience Portavadie’s famous family bathroom with a TV in the bath! 8 August: We left our West Coast adventure at Portavadie on Caribou but we started a new one across the hill at Tighnabruaich Sailing School!

By Emilie Kay Turner, Caribou

West Highland Week Fun – Charlie, Ben and Emilie.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 25

Winner of the Caledonian Trophy

Inner Lead to the Arctic Circle

Monkey Business on

Evening Calm, Eide Marina, Norway.

Monkey Business – Beneteau First 38S5 Built 1990 Official Number 908340 Length 11.5 metres, Gross Tonnage 10.6 Summer Cruise 2015 Tighnabruaich – Lofoten Islands, Norway Distance 2554 miles, distance under power not recorded. Owner / Skipper: Charlie Craig Crew: Chris McCondichie – Cruise Duration, Jim Deas & Sue Hall – Tighnabruaich-Westray, Sandy Donald – Tighnabruaich-Lerwick, Colwyn Jones & David Cooper – Lerwick-Alesund, Niel Craig – Lerwick-Bodo, Phil Smith & Justine Carter – Bodo (Lofoten), Tomoko Iwata – Bodo (Lofoten), Mark Gorin & Gordon Speir – Bodo – Vigra, Roland Craig – Lerwick – Wick, David Elliot & Kat Jones – Kirkwall – Fort William

‘‘Y

ou can’t complain of the cold if you choose to sail to the Arctic for your holidays” was a frequently used saying this summer on Monkey Business. My Arctic adventure started from Tighnabruaich on Friday 12 June

26 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

and began with the classic Crinan to Canna route. By Tuesday a SE wind gusting to 40 Knts provided a fast and wild sail across the Minch to Loch Finsby, although my position and track were clear on the chartplotter entry was tense as visibility was down to one

mile. Fortunately on Wednesday visibility improved and conditions eased to give a fine sail over the Sound of Shiant up to Stornoway, where I saw the new ferry MV Loch Seaforth. On Thursday afternoon heading 130 miles for Pierowall in Westray a cold Westerly wind and

Winner of the Caledonian Trophy a series of Atlantic low pressure systems had built big seas so I left Cape Wrath 10 miles off to avoid the worst of the tide. Nature provided a remedy for my cold crew when a school of dolphins entertained and lifted moral. Jim and Sue took the Saturday 08:00 ferry to Orkney and I headed 85 miles to Lerwick, even with the advantage of a fast tide off North Ronaldsway and an Easterly wind until South of Bressay, my arrival at Lerwick was in darkness. I had difficulty identifying the visitor’s berths currently overshadowed by a former cruise ship now used for accommodation. Ashore on Sunday I witnessed the blight caused by the numerous ships and barges being used to accommodate the workforce of a major construction project. Sandy departed that evening via the overnight ferry to the mainland while I anticipated the arrival of the next crew, but only Colwyn arrived; Niel and Davie arrived Monday due to flight problems. With strong North East winds and crew fatigue I postponed departure, the forecast was for low pressure in sea areas Viking and North Utsire, if I departed early Tuesday I should have favourable

wind although accompanied by rough sea. As forecast, with the barometer 1015 and rising, I headed into this rough sea with winds between 22 and 27 Knts from North going North West, I was making excellent speed but the pitching motion was violent so I reefed to balance speed with comfort. Off Unst I sailed amongst a pod of Orca circling a seal in readiness for a kill. That night I passed through the oil and gas fields and continued making swift progress .The weather improved on Wednesday and the evening sunshine reflected off the cliffs as I approached Stattlanded. Given that my arrival was going to be in the early morning I decided to approach Alesund via Rovdefjord, Vartdalsfjord and Sulafjord to allow the benefit of the mountain scenery. I noticed there was still much snow on the hills and became so engaged in the light wind sailing that I took a wrong turning on the approach to Alesund, however I still managed to find a berth on the visitors’ pontoon by 16:30 after sailing 286 miles from Lerwick.Young David, a Shetlander, was delighted to have done his first North Sea crossing.

As Colwyn and David flew back to Scotland on Friday afternoon, Niel, Chris and I continued our passage North by making for the picturesque small island of Ona. The low sun provided crisp views of the snow capped mountains but also made difficulty in identifying the navigation poles. On Saturday morning while blowing 20 Knts I spoke with a local man and asked about the prevailing winds, “It can blow like this from the North for weeks at a time” he replied. I realised that to succeed with a Lofoten cruise some hard work would now be required. My plan had always been to sail within the “inner lead” amongst the coastal islands and skerries rather than take the offshore route from Alesund to Lofoten, however I had not anticipated the additional mileage this would entail. That afternoon I made slow progress in the 25 Knts North wind over the Hustadvika, an area marked on the charts as having “Dangerous Waves” and was happy to pass under one of the iconic bridges that form the Atlantic Ocean Road before reaching Eide Boathaven, a small harbour below mountains. The next two days followed a similar

Tomoko at Reine, Lofoten.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 27

Winner of the Caledonian Trophy pattern of a 07:00 start and a 23:00 finish with evenings spent at Kongsvoll and Bessaker, my route followed the Trondheimsleia and kept the major islands of Smola and Hirta to port, resembling a passage along the Sound of Mull. The route was complex and binoculars were in constant use searching for the navigation poles, I became used to the volume of shipping and frequency of the daily Hurtigruten ferries sailing North and South. Tuesday started damp but cleared rapidly; as I approached Rorvik, the landward scenery became more dramatic and mountainous always with islands or skerries to my port side. That evening I shared the anchorage at Langoya with a Norwegian yacht. I had an uncomfortable night after being woken by a combination of sunshine and mosquitoes at 03:00. This discomfort was soon forgotten as Wednesday unfolded, firstly passing Torghatten, the mountain with a hole through it, before passing under Bronnoysund Bridge, a steep arch accessed by a hairpin bend on each side; then finally sailing below the Monkey Business at Reine, Lofoten.

28 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Tomoko and friends!

grandeur of the snow-capped Syv Sostre (Seven Sisters) before reaching the friendly port of Nesna. Thursday was a day of celebration crossing the Polar Circle (66’ 33” N) at 15:00 and we positioned Monkey Business to frame one of the Polar Circle Globes in photographs. In the evening as I headed for Sorfugloy the Svartisen Glacier appeared to merge with the Eastern sky. Rounding the headland of Kunna on the approach to Sorfugloy I was struck by a fierce fallvind gusting to 40 Knts,

but fortunately Sandviken was a well sheltered mole harbour below 400 metre cliffs. Securing adjacent to a Norwegian yacht, the couple onboard were impressed knowing I had come from Scotland, the skipper’s wife asked “Are you not bored, having sailed all this way?”. I tried to convince her otherwise. With the standard 07:00 start on Friday I headed to Bodo in heavy rain with a brief lightening storm causing some concern, I found a vacant berth below the quayside and within an

Winner of the Caledonian Trophy Crew at Reine, Lofoten.

hour was joined by Tomoko, Phil and Justine off their flight from Edinburgh. Saturday was a rest day and I resumed the cruise at midday on Sunday after saying goodbye to Niel. I sailed 40 miles to Helnessund, where Justine proudly landed the first cod of the cruise. Monday 6 July, I took stock of my privileged situation, North of the Arctic Circle with the weather fair as I headed across the Monkey Business at Mageroysondet.

Vestfjord 40 miles to Reine in Lofoten on a brisk sail. At 20:45 I was berthed below snow-filled gullies and spectacular mountains in what is frequently acknowledged as Norway’s most scenic area. On Tuesday Phil and Justine ascended Reinbringen towering 615 meters above the harbour. An 11 mile sail on Wednesday following the coast of Moskenesoya brought me to Nusfjord, Norway’s oldest and best preserved fishing village; on entering this picturesque tight harbour I found all available guest berths full, but on turning to leave I was hailed by a Norwegian family who vacated their berth and offered it to me, their actions were typical of the kindness and warmth of welcome that I have always experienced while cruising in Norway. A visit to the beautifully preserved buildings proved a fascinating insight into the history and development of cod fishing in Lofoten. The warmth on Thursday prompted a short spell of sailing in swimwear below snow capped mountains then I headed for Henningsvaer, the principal rock climbing centre of Lofoten. That evening I watched the midnight sun

cross the horizon. A lunch stop at Hopen on Friday while on route to Svolvaer provided further cod. Sadly I found Svolvaer slightly disappointing, although immensely popular with wealthy Northern Norwegians, it was too commercial for my liking. I did however berth Monkey Business immediately below the finest quay side hotel, and having “Glasgow” as my port of registration on the stern attracted many favourable comments. Sadly Phil and Justine’s Arctic adventure was over on Saturday and they took the ferry back to Bodo, I sailed further North and visited Trollfjord, the tight little fjord in which the Hurtigruten ferries turn 180 degrees within touching distance of the walls. I was aware that this was a major tourist attraction but was surprised by the number of yachts and motorboats entering ahead. When I saw Nordlys, the Hurtigruten ferry enter I suspected she was the attraction, however I entered and found a grand concert taking place at the head of the fjord and with over 100 boats in attendance there was no opportunity for me to berth. I briefly enjoyed the music; noted my position as 68’ 15”, 15’ 55” and

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 29

Winner of the Caledonian Trophy took the musical accompaniment as a celebration of the Northerly limit of my Arctic cruise before heading to the peaceful anchorage at Gulvik where sea eagles and ospreys flew overhead. A 30 mile sail with a warm 12 Knts Easterly wind brought me across the Vestfjord from the Lofoten Islands back to the mainland coast to Bogen Marina for an evening BBQ. Taking further advantage of the warm settled weather I sailed 36 miles to the archipelago of Karlsoyer where I anchored amongst the skerries, the low lying islands allowed me to watch the midnight sun dip in the cloudless sky as a gentle mist rose from the land. A fresh breeze in the morning prompted an early departure and I slipped into Kjerringoy Harbour, another picturesque well preserved fishing centre from last century. Wednesday was another crew change so I headed back to Bodo to collect Mark and Gordon at midday, the berth being only 15 minutes walk from the airport, nine miles sailing brought me to the idyllic sheltered anchorage at Bliksvaer with its pretty church and village situated in a meadow abundant with wild flowers. Having been previously impressed by Sorfugloy

Charlie, Svartisen Glacier, Norway.

30â&#x20AC;&#x201A; â&#x20AC;&#x201A; Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

I felt it worthy of a return visit being only 19 miles away, there while walking along the beach I was amused by an otter playing in the sea. Eight miles on Friday brought me to Inndyrvagen, a great harbour with a mix of yachts and fishing boats, a co-op store adjacent to the guest berth and a welcoming yacht club within a refurbished wooden warehouse. On Saturday while on route back to Bodo I sailed amongst a school of over 50 pilot whales before returning to the now familiar quay side berth below the Thon Hotel, busy with a wedding party. I walked Tomoko to the airport on Sunday and commenced my inbound trip well aware of the hard work ahead, having missed the Svartisen Glacier on the North bound trip I was keen to visit despite the additional mileage. A very early start on Monday allowed this detour to Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second largest mainland glacier; further excitement arrived at 18:00 crossing the Polar Circle Southbound. I secured in Nesna Marina at 23:00 having covered 85 miles that day, followed by another 75 miles on Tuesday among equally spectacular scenery. On Wednesday while South of Rorvick the weather rapidly deteriorated, unfortunately

while in an exposed part of Folla, an area noted for dangerous waves. Within 45 minutes the sea state had become so rough that I was unable to make satisfactory progress. The sea had gone from nearly calm to steep waves almost one metre high; after a struggle I turned about and headed seeking shelter in Namsfjord. A possible anchorage was identified but with 38 Knt winds it was deemed unsafe, I continued deeper into the fjord until a small anchorage was identified. To my relief just after midnight I was anchored in the calm, having sailed over 70 miles of which 23 were looking for shelter. Thursday saw a return to Bessaker and on Friday I was rewarded with an excellent sail in crisp Northerly winds and clear blue skies allowing me to cover 75 miles to Mageroysunt. My luck continued as the Northerly wind provided yet another sunny sail of 82 miles on Saturday to Sandoya where I secured in the well sheltered harbour. My downwind sailing continued on Sunday morning as I ran another 25 miles to Roald on Vigra to allow Mark and Gordon access to the airport. As they walked the 30 minutes from berth to terminal they enthused on their

Winner of the Caledonian Trophy walk on-walk off cruise across the Arctic Circle. Chris and I remained in Roald that night berthed adjacent to the aptly named trawlers Arctic Hunter and Atlantic Navigator. On Tuesday with a forecast for Northerly winds I departed Hareid at 09:45 and headed towards the coast at Stattlanded, although the mountains were still covered with snow the farms at sea level were harvesting. We

from 20-35 Knts and backed NE – N-NW to give a rapid but rough ride homeward, the noise and the power of the sea was impressive, any conversation had to be done shouting, we were meticulous at clipping in our harnesses during watches. Strangely after such a wild crossing I entered Lerwick with only 11 Knts of wind and secured at 06:30 on Thursday morning, just beating my

Charlie and Chris, Polar Circle Sculpture, 66’ 33 North.

easily settled into a watch routine, however late that night while I was on watch I noticed a ship closing our position and called Chris from his bunk. The ship 7 Oceans came close alongside and gave several rapid blasts on it horn, I reached for the handheld VHF and called them up “Good Evening Captain” came the reply, I was impressed at this salutation as they continued. “Do you see the survey ship to your South East? Be aware they are towing survey cables 8.5 Km in length and 3.5 Km abeam, you are standing into danger. Captain please alter course 10 degrees”. I hardened up and felt the increase in apparent wind and beam swell punishing, a short time later I was called by Arctic Duchess to ask whether I was under power or sail, when I replied, “a sailing yacht”, they replied that I was almost invisible on their radar due to the clutter caused by the waves. Almost three hours later they called back to inform me that it was safe to resume my course and wished me a safe passage. During the night and into Wednesday the wind increased

brother who arrived at 07:00 off the overnight ferry. I sailed 32 miles down to Fair Isle on Friday, my arrival was at low water springs, so required great care on entry due to strong cross tide and lack of manoeuvring space.That night I hosted a party for the crew of the six yachts tied up in Fair Isle. Kirkwall in Orkney was next, to collect Kat and Davie, our new crew members. Despite a damp start the day brightened and the wind built to 16 Knts giving a great sail and allowing access from the East via Shapinsay Sound. The forecast now turned unpleasant warning of a series of deep low pressure systems bringing strong South West winds across Scotland during the coming week. I thought very carefully about this and reflected on the bruising which Chris and I had taken during the North Sea crossing and made a decision to return via the Caledonian Canal rather than the West Coast. On Sunday I headed down to Wick against increasing South East winds and building swell. The CCC sailing directions warn not to enter Wick in SE Force 5; so my approach was at best marginal, I secured without grief

and with much relief. Next morning I noticed the seas breaking over the harbour wall and sought advice from the harbour master, “Port is now closed due to danger, no one is leaving until Wednesday” was his firm reply, I was both relieved and devastated as I broke the news to the crew. Ships and Men rot in harbour; I felt I had made a bad decision and went into a foul mood for three days, my brother got bored and deserted while Kat, Davie and Chris did their best to stay positive. On the brighter side we socialised with the other crews in the same predicament. Finally, early on Wednesday I slipped out in calm conditions and made for Inverness and the Caledonian Canal, I arrived just after midnight in mirror calm and entered the canal after breakfast on Thursday. I had difficulty finding my earlier levels of enthusiasm for the cruise and sadly found the transit claustrophobic and without challenge. On Sunday after leaving the canal Chris and I headed down Loch Linnhe in pouring rain and under dark skies, the forecast was for another deep low and we discussed heading for Crinan and home, but as we approached Port Ramsey the weather cleared and the wind died bringing a calm night. Next morning the tide allowed a late start and I made good progress with a Northerly breeze to Gigha. Here my enthusiasm returned as I reflected on the high and low points of the cruise. The light North wind continued into Tuesday and I enjoyed the sail around the Mull to Carradale. Tuesday 12 August was a fine day as I returned to Tighnabruaich the Waverley was alongside the pier and the Arran skyline crisp and clear. I had been away for two months, Monkey Business had covered 2,554 miles, and I had crossed the Arctic Circle achieving my objective of sailing to Lofoten. The tenacity of my crew, especially Chris who had shared the entire trip, had made this possible. I wonder how cold it would be sailing to Greenland?

By Charlie Craig, Monkey Business

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 31

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Winner of the R.G.Mowat Memorial Trophy

SKERRYVORE Split to Ardrossan Split to Mallorca: 1168 nm, four overnights, 20 May to 2 June, 15 days, 78 nm per day Palma to Gibraltar: 592 nm, 3 June to 17 June, 14 days, 42 nm per day Gibraltar to Ardrossan: 1380 nm, eight overnights, 18 June to 29 June, 11 days, 125 nm per day Total voyage Split to Ardrossan: 3140 nm, 12 overnights, 41 days, 76 nm per day Skerryvore of Findhorn – Beneteau Sense 46 The crew: Ewan Buchanan (skipper) Eileen Buchanan (teacher) Palma to Gibraltar David Stevenson (doctor) Linda Stevenson (nurse) Palma to Gibraltar Graham (Snowy) Shewan (baker) Robin Maclaren (engineer) Split to Lagos Angus Mill (business manager) Lagos to Ardrossan

Rough weather at the Costa del Sol.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 33

Winner of the R.G.Mowat Memorial Trophy Skerryvore in Santa Maria de Leuca.

avid, Robin, Snowy and I arrived in Split on Wednesday 17 May to find slightly unsettled weather and work still required to get Skerryvore of Findhorn ready for her voyage back to Ardrossan. She is a Beneteau Sense 46, which I bought in Palma in May 2013. We spent two amazing seasons sailing in the Adriatic and visited Venice in 2014. However, it was time to return home and meet up with friends again on the West Coast of Scotland. By Friday evening we were ready to set sail. Before we left we presented Slaven, the base maintenance manager of Ultra Marine, with a clock and barometer as a token of thanks for all his work and attention over the previous two years. Slaven had fitted radar, satellite phone, davits, staysail and various warranty items, which served us well on the way home.

Split to Palma 20 May – 3 June We left early Saturday morning in cloudy conditions and the wind increased during the day from the South-East resulting in us beating to Hvar for lunch and then on to Korcula for a late dinner and early start the following day. We left for Santa Maria di Leuca with the wind behind us and a thunderstorm brewing. The crew was concerned about being struck by lightning so we took the sails down for the first overnight sail and everyone slept well. We arrived before lunch and walked up the steep hill to the famous lighthouse and basilica 46 metres above sea level. In the evening on board we discovered the domestic batteries overheating and gassing so Robin and David volunteered to stand watch over them until they cooled down. We woke up feeling a bit fed up but, to our surprise, after contacting the Harbour Master, two engineers appeared with batteries and installed them within an hour, amazing! We topped up our diesel and set off for Croton. We arrived near Croton after dark and suddenly without warning, the Polizia di Stato were shining a flashlight on the boat. It took over

half an hour to persuade them we were not illegal immigrants and they thanked us for our patience and departed as fast as they had arrived. We arrived late in Croton and left early the next day. It was a long uneventful sail along the South Coast of Italy in light winds. However in the Messina Straits, after darkness had fallen, the boat seemed for no reason to slow down and stop. We had hit a fish farm without lights, fortunately made of plastic, so no damage but we were all left a bit shaken at the thought of hitting something more solid. We were grateful to enter the marina, pay our dues and get some sleep as the weather had turned cold and windy. We set sail early with the tide against us and made our way past the high pylons at the Northern end of the straits before heading for the Aeolian Isles. This was a fetch with winds of between 15 and 20 Knts in lovely sunshine, this was our first great sail. Stromboli, an active volcano, and Strombolicchio, a volcanic plug island nearby, are fascinating. Steps have been cut out of the cliff leading up to a small light on top of Strombolicchia, which we circled and then anchored off the smoking Stromboli volcano before we departed for Lipari. The

Stromboli volcano from Skerryvore.

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Winner of the R.G.Mowat Memorial Trophy

Robin MacLaren Strombolicchio Aeolian Islands.

town of Lipari is large for this small island and the main town on the Aeolian Islands. We enjoyed a very good dinner at a Thai restaurant recommended by the marina staff. We left late morning heading for Sardinia with a good wind for the 340 nm passage and after two overnight sails arrived at Carloforte on Isola di San Pietro on the West side of Sardinia where the Tuna Festival was in full swing. We had seen lots of dolphins, which are always captivating, reminding us of home although they were smaller than the Moray Firth dolphins. It was the first time we had used the satellite phone in earnest and we picked up GRIB weather charts twice a day giving us more confidence with the overnight sailing. On arrival we filled up with diesel using a 50-litre drum and a supermarket trolley from the petrol station. We enjoyed a great meal outside in a small side street restaurant Ewan presentation to Slaven.

before leaving early again the next day for Palma. No time to slow down, as we had to get to Palma for Eileen’s birthday! After another overnight it was a pleasant sail to San Jordi on Mallorca. The heads and fresh water pump were not working so we were looking forward to the facilities at Palma and meeting up with the wives. After another lovely day we arrived at the small anchorage of San Jordi and after dinner went ashore for a Gelato.

Palma to Gibraltar 3 – 17 June Eileen & Linda arrive at Palma on Eileen’s birthday and we all went out for a great birthday meal. The crew enjoyed sightseeing in the lovely old Mediterranean city of Palma, visiting the cathedral and the old town. We left Palma after two days of maintenance and set sail in lovely weather for the picturesque anchorage of Cabo Malgrats. We all went for a swim in the crystal clear water, wonderful after the heat and hassle of Palma. The next day we sailed to San Telmo. The wind increased for a while so we reefed just before reaching Andtracx for lunch and were slightly annoyed at having to pay for picking up a mooring for a couple of hours.

On arrival at San Telmo we picked up another mooring and enjoyed a meal looking out at the spectacular sunset. Next morning we left early for the first long day at sea with our wives, 60 nm to Santa Eularia des Rui on Ibiza.We checked into the most expensive marina of the voyage at 130 Euros for the night. This was a cheap berth with a long walk to the town! We had breakfast ashore and then enjoyed a good downwind sail to Formentera, anchoring for lunch on a long sandy beach with all the super yachts. A bit windy for swimming so we sailed along the mile or so of yachts and anchored for the night a few miles down the coast. We went ashore and swam back out to the boat. Snowy had cooked another lovely meal and we took photos of the sunset and a catamaran anchoring in the bay. It was a great day. We started early for the Spanish mainland coast enjoying a fast reach for the 84 nm crossing to Campello, arriving in time for eating out. Snowy went to buy food and we all reflected that a meal on the beach was not normal at home. The next day was hot and the airconditioning was working hard for the 80 nm to Mazarron. It was a bit of a sloppy sail with the sails down

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 35

Winner of the R.G.Mowat Memorial Trophy

Ewan & Eileen in Alhambra Palace gardens.

and then up to try and stop the rolling. We decided to anchor just past the harbour with a metre of water under the keel. After dinner aboard we bought our ritual gelato ashore. We enjoyed the 68 nm sail and scenery of high mountains and remote beaches on the way to San Jose. After refueling we ate at the restaurant above the marina, food kept on arriving throughout the meal, which was confusing, but it was a most enjoyable meal. In the morning it was windy and there was a bumpy sea as we rounded the headland at Cabo de Gata. This had to be given a wide berth due to a dangerous rock half mile offshore. Eileen and Linda started to feel seasick so we decided to head for Almeira and drop them off before continuing on the 75 nm trip to Adra. By the time we reached Adra we were beating and motorsailing into 35 Knts with only the staysail set. It was a great test for the boat and new staysail. Eventually we managed to find a space in the new unfinished marina with the bonus that there were no fees, although a policeman managed to find us and get the never-ending documents signed. Robin organized a day out to Snowy in the galley.

36 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

David & Linda in Palma.

Granada and the Alhambra Palace with a guide and minibus and we enjoyed a fantastic day away from sailing in strong winds. The Alhambra Palace is a world heritage site with magnificent gardens and buildings and spectacular views over the surrounding countryside. The wind continued to blow at around 20 Knts from the West so the next day Eileen and Linda again decided to go ashore rather than opt for the 55 nm sail to Puerto de Valez. We sailed with reefed main and staysail, which worked well at 22 Knts close hauled. On arrival at Valez we were told we had booked into the anchorage not the marina but they allowed us to stay, as it was so windy. Once we had tied up there was great hilarity as our wives appeared from the Dutch boat next to us soon after our arrival in port! The ladies departed ashore as usual the next day for their bus journey to the next port. We left later than intended at 10:00 for the 55 nm to Marbella, which was probably due to the good meal ashore the night before. We were met with the usual headwind. We arrived in Marbella and went ashore for cocktails followed by another good meal aboard prepared by Snowy. The weather was much lighter so the ladies decided to sail with us for their last 40 nm to Gibraltar. It was a great sight to see the Rock appear, with all the history it represents, then grow larger as it is approached. On arrival at the marina we were confused by all the red buoys that most boats were leaving to starboard. These turned out to be markers to keep you clear of the end of the runway, which most boats ignored. We were struck by how different it was

from the other Costa de Sol harbours and enjoyed being able to speak English and be understood. Gibraltar is like Britain in the sun with Marks & Spencer and Morrison’s to fill up with stores. We spent the afternoon going up the Rock and learning about its famous history from our guides. In the evening we had a farewell meal for Eileen and Linda. We were up early for Eileen and Linda to catch the plane, refueled at duty free prices and left later than intended at 10:30 for the delivery trip home.

Gibraltar to Ardrossan 18 – 29 June The late start meant we missed the tide at the start of the 200 nm to Lagos. We set the asymmetric but soon took it down as the wind increased to about 25 Knts. Following a gybe we broke the mainsail slide attached to the lowest full-length batten. After replacing the slide we tried to be careful but the sail fell down with the first gybe. The main halyard’s snap shackle had detached itself from the sail. David being the youngest and lightest was hoisted up the mast and with some difficulty recovered the main halyard that fortunately was still at the top of the mast. Shortly afterwards we managed to break the outhaul rope at the stopper in the cockpit. Having overcome these problems we continued without further incident, sailing overnight to make Lagos by midday. Angus joined us in the afternoon with heavier duty replacement mainsail slides and the five of us enjoyed a pleasant meal ashore. We left at 08:00 after a day in Lagos and were sad to say goodbye to Robin who had fixed all our

Winner of the R.G.Mowat Memorial Trophy Angus Mill at Cape Finistere.

breakages and been great company. In Lagos he replaced the cockpit speakers. We filled up with diesel and Angus joined us for the rest of the trip home. He was by far the youngest in the crew but the only member who had already crossed the notorious Bay of Biscay several times. We made good progress to Cape St.Vincent and surprisingly the wind was favorable for sailing the 340 nm up the Portuguese coast past Lisbon and onto Bayona. We had opted for going offshore rather than stopping for the night in a small harbour due to the massive number of fishing boats and tuna nets around. We arrived mid-morning in Bayona filled up with diesel then enjoyed another meal ashore. We were away at 07:00 the following morning for the Bay of Biscay. A good forecast meant we left in good spirits for the 500 nm Bay of Biscay passage in slightly overcast conditions. At Cape Finistere 30 nm

Margo James 2 handed race largs SC 1.

up the coast the quiet conditions allowed us to pass close inshore and see the rugged landscape. There were several other yachts going in our direction but soon after Finistere we lost contact with them and the land. We had to motor in the Easterly and Southerly wind but were happy as this was better than going out into wild conditions. When we were 150 nm out to sea I called home and picked up forecasts on the satellite phone. Lots of traffic appeared overnight. One ship came within 0.2 of a nm but was not a danger as we had AIS (automatic identification system) and soon the dawn appeared over the horizon. We spent several pleasant days relaxing, playing music, reading, washing clothes and even a glass of wine out of long stemmed glasses for dinner in the cockpit. We took some good shots of the visiting dolphins. The double purchase on the asymmetric halyard became twisted and it took all the crew to pull down the sail. As Angus was this time the youngest he was volunteered to go up the mast to untie the halyard, which even in the quiet conditions, required a strong nerve and great effort to hang onto the mast. Mission accomplished we were only able to fly the asymmetric for about four hours before having to start up the engine again. We ended this passage reflecting on our good fortune with the weather. After a few hours sleep in bouncy conditions we awoke to a grey bleak scene in St. Mary’s. We pumped up the dingy and for the first time and with some difficulty attached the outboard to go ashore. Snowy left to get food and I visited the harbour office to arrange for Siblys Fuel to

fill us up from their road tanker on the very busy stone jetty. Thank goodness this was our last fill of diesel for the voyage, however the engine had worked well for the 400 hours of motoring it took to get us home. After refueling and filling with water we thought we might just keep on going. David had other ideas and threatened mutiny if we did not stay. It was his birthday so without much resistance we decided to have a day ashore. We managed to find a green mooring with marginally more swinging room, as most of the moorings, being only a few feet apart, could not take us. After dinner at St. Mary’s Hall Hotel followed by the Dolphin pub we made it back to the boat, some later than others. A great day out and ‘well done’ David for persuading us to stay. The crew was sound asleep when the engine started at 07:00 precisely. Snowy had turned on the instruments, hoisted the dinghy onto the davits and was ready to lift the anchor. Not much choice but to get going and we were soon out in quite a bouncy sea heading North on our final leg with two overnights to Ardrossan. We tried sailing and hoisted the asymmetric but lack of wind and sea conditions meant we were motoring for most of the day. The forecast of Southerly winds of around 20 Knts increasing overnight to 25 Knts was ideal. We took down the main at dusk and made good progress overnight with the headsail. The following day the wind reduced and we even saw some sun. The heating was tried out for the first time and worked well. What a change from sunny Split but we were all looking forward to seeing the familiar surroundings and returning home after quite a long time away. We called our wives and they decided to travel down from Moray to meet us. We had a great welcome from Eileen, Linda, Carol, Robin and Christine, Peter Dixon and the Sunbird team. Then out for a welcome home lunch at Cecchini’s before everyone headed for home.

By Ewan Buchanan, Skerryvore

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 37

Winner of the OGG Cup Stromness by night.

A two week

“Circumnavigation” of Scotland Yacht Contender – Rival 32, 9.7m 41 year old, long keel slow fibreglass cruiser. Skipper: Geoff Crowley Crew: Matt Crowley, Maria Crowley Distance Covered: 605 miles Under engine: 233 miles Total engine hours: 121 (includes canals and engine under idle)

ach August, my son Matt and I have done something for International Lighthouse Weekend, usually mid August. This is actually an Amateur Radio event, where radio ‘hams’ transmit from lighthouses in most parts of the world. We are yachting and amateur radio enthusiasts and we have had fun in trying to get to relatively inaccessible lighthouses, using the HF SSB transmitter aboard Contender, a Rival 32. This year there were 507 lighthouses in over 50 countries active on the radio. Our target this year was to combine being at Hoy Light (Orkney) with a sail up the West Coast and back though the Caledonian Canal. It was a tight schedule we had little spare time for weather delays, and were reliant on making good time, so when there was no wind we motored. As we would be two handed, for most of the sailing part, a minimum of night

38 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

sailing seemed wise and we needed to be in Scapa Flow for the weekend of 15 August. It worked out all right and, although 2015 was not famous for good weather, we had few windy days, and some windless days and plenty of sunshine. Friday 7 August We left Rhu straight after work on Friday evening, slipping the pontoon at 18:00, complete with two boxes of fish and chips from the marina cafe. Our aim was to get a few miles towards Ardrishaig to make the best of the Crinan Canal by arriving early Saturday. We eventually anchored near the Burnt Isles in the Kyles of Bute, at 21:55, having decided on an early start next morning. Saturday 8 August Weighed anchor at 06:05 in light winds and motored to start with, then sailed up

Loch Fyne to Ardrishaig, arriving at 10:10. The Crinan Canal is now an all assisted passage. It now costs more and takes longer to transit the canal, which might be good for a first trip, but not if just using it as a shortcut. Being narrow, we used to open only one lock door, but you cannot do that with an “assisted passage”. By 16:40, we were out of the Crinan sealock and heading North. We anchored in Puilladobhrain that night, arriving at 20:10. There were three boats there, and a slightly bigger gap between two of them beckoned, so we dropped the hook and fed out 25m of chain putting us number two in a line from the South in an increasing Southerly wind. During the night I sensed something was wrong. Climbing out into the cockpit I discovered we were now number four in the line, we’d dragged round two boats, and were dragging towards the little island near the entrance. Remembering a

Winner of the OGG Cup story about foul chain or something thereabouts, we scrabbled round in the dark, hauled in and re-set the anchor, wondering if CQR really is “secure”. Sunday 9 August We devoured a big pot of porridge between us, and weighed anchor at 08:00. We headed for the Sound of Mull making good time in F4-6 with the wind from the South. By-passing Tobermory meant this would be the first year in many that we haven’t stopped there at all, but we had a schedule and so on we sailed. Rounding Ardnamurchan, we wondered if we would contact someone there at the lighthouse by radio the next weekend, and sailed onward to Eigg. I had never anchored at Eigg before. We came storming in there with F6 behind us, between Eilean Cathastail and Galmisdale Point, surfing the now two metre swell, and sought for somewhere with even a little shelter. In the bay North of there, it was relatively calm, and what looked like a sandy bottom inshore of some rocks. We anchored there, no dragging tonight, thanks! We watched the ferry come and go. Monday 10 August The wind had abated overnight, and was South South East F2-3 by the time we weighed at 08:00 aiming for Kyle. The wind died in the Sound of Sleat, so we motored in light drizzle that deteriorated into a downpour. We stopped the night at the pontoon at Kyle, and sampled Highland fish and chips. Tuesday 11 August A somewhat lonely trip Northwards – we saw one yacht all day. With light winds from

Sunrise from Kinlochbervie.

the South, we headed North on the Inner Sound, passed the Butec testing range unchallenged and past Loch Torridon, Loch Gairloch, we rounded Rubha Reidh, and late afternoon came into Tanera Mor, in the Summer Isles. Anchoring here is not so straightforward. There is a lot of fish farm activity, but we managed to drop the hook without snagging anything, and spent an uneventful night. Wednesday 12 August A 06:30 start. We thought we might be able to make Kinlochbervie that day. With a Southerly, F4-5 this seemed a good plan. It increased to F6, so we tacked downwind in a two metre rising swell, and made excellent time arriving there at 12:30. It was like a ghost town, the only activity we saw was a German yacht leaving, probably for Lewis, and a Dutch yacht just about to set off for home. We had a chat with them for a while. We wandered about the town. There was a huge fish market, obviously hardly used, a nice harbour – which was empty, and a few lonely sad yachts tied up to the nice pontoons. Thursday 13 August Cape Wrath! We’d never been here, but the name suggests that we might need good weather. Leaving at 06:00 with a South Westerly, F2-3 we couldn’t have wished for better. Not a yacht in sight, but the occasional freighter rounding the corner. We sailed on, on this lonely sea, rounding at 08:30, and promptly ran out of wind. Flat calm, blue sky, bright sun, Cape Wrath? It was the Cape of Good Weather as we rounded. We had intended to aim for Loch Eribol, mainly because it seems

that everyone does. But why not sail direct to Stromness? So Orkney it was. A minke whale, dolphins and plenty of seabirds accompanied us. On the way we saw an unusual action by a freighter. Coming from the Minch probably, they rounded Cape Wrath well off, and started as if for the Pentland Firth. On the radio they called a trawler, asked his intentions, then did a 90 degree turn to due North for 20 mins, then South about the same then resumed course. We wondered if it was a MOB drill? We arrived in Orkney at 20;00 and tied up at the delightful marina in Stromness. Friday 14 August Now a day ahead of schedule, we decided to explore the town, do some washing (great facilities here), and do the tourist thing. At lunchtime we went across the Hoy entrance to Graemsay Island, our main destination and looked for an anchorage in Sandside Bay, right between the two lighthouses.We had been in contact by radio with the Orkney Radio Club.They were at Cantick Head Lighthouse, the other end of Scapa Flow.We went to visit them and then had dinner with them at a hotel on that island.We had a night at anchor in Longhope Bay before heading back to Graemsay Island. Saturday 15 August This is what we’d come for – might be boring from a sailing point of view, sitting at anchor all day ‘yakking’ on the radio, but it was fun in its own way. We made contact with a few hundred other stations round the world. To take a break we rowed ashore and explored the light. The batteries needed charging because we were

Dolphins North of Loch Eribol.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 39

Winner of the OGG Cup Old Man of Hoy.

on the radio for such a long time, so we ran the engine at idle for about 18 hours that day. Sunday 16 August To keep the schedule, and to meet with Maria (wife, mother) in Inverness later, we decided to head for Wick. We left at a leisurely 08:45 to catch the tides. We had made good use of tides all this trip, and intended to maximise our speed. It is not worth trying to fight the Pentland Firth tidal stream. Out past Cantick Head, at 12 Knts SOG, speaking to our friends from Orkney Radio Club on the radio on the way past, then past Duncansby Head, and spoke to the Caithness Radio Club on the radio too, and also to those

Dochgarroch.

40â&#x20AC;&#x201A; â&#x20AC;&#x201A; Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

on Noss Head as we approached there. Wick has a nice harbour, good marina, excellent facilities. We arrived at 17:30 and decided that a Chinese takeaway was in order. We walked the town looking for one, passing five Indian takeaways to find a Chinese (they must prefer Indian here), and back to the boat with our dinner. While there we chatted to some Norwegians on Galant, an old converted fishing boat.They aimed to get to Rockall to find a sunken ship from long ago. I had considered Rockall in Contender but would not have made the trip in a converted fishing vessel. Monday 17 August Departed Wick in a Southerly, F1-2, which

dropped to F0-1 and came round to the North. We thought that it would be interesting to venture out to the Beatrice Oil Field. With oil rigs, wind turbines and a steel mast, all planted out there, must be interesting, so we headed East of our planned route to Inverness. We were about five miles North of the main platform when the fog rolled in. A bank of fog from the North brought visibility down to about two boat lengths, so we thought that maybe being in amongst oil rigs was not the place to be in such thick fog, so we veered off West towards Inverness, keeping an eye in the AIS receiver. Passing Invergordon we saw an object appear out of the gloom.

Winner of the OGG Cup It looked like a huge box, but was moving North. Then we saw the tug towing this lump, with a very long tow line, no lights, no fog signals, no day shapes. It posed a real hazard to shipping. Eventually the fog cleared as we approached Tarbert Ness (another radio crew stationed there too), and on towards the Inverness Firth, past Fort George, a dozen or more fishermen on Chanonry Point, and we passed under the Kessock Bridge at 21:00 and tied up in Inverness Marina soon after. The canal marina cannot be accessed at night. What a delightful place, very sheltered, nice pontoons and lovely facilities. Nearby there was a huge stockpile of wind turbine parts. Tuesday 18 August The sealock to the Caledonian Canal is closed either side of low tide, so we were unable to enter until 10:00, so we came out of the marina and into the canal, which is a mile away. Through a bridge and into the Muirtown Basin where there’s also a marina. Here we were told that the canal was closed by the Police. Maria had arrived by train and met us only to find we were stuck in the basin. We walked up and asked what was happening. The Police were dealing with a possible incident. We did some shopping and waited. That afternoon they declared that traffic could continue, so we started our journey through the canal.

We had lunch at Fort Augustus, it seemed there were a thousand tourists watching us eat. We spent the night at Dochgarroch where we found a very nice restaurant. Wednesday 19 August We couldn’t start until 08:00, but then we were off on time and into Loch Ness. No wind, so we motored the length, in an almost perfectly straight line. We stopped at Laggan Lochs for the night. Thursday 20 August We set off at 08:00, still no wind, and eventually arrive at Neptune’s Staircase. While we waited for upcoming boats we saw the Harry Potter steam train passing. Down the staircase and out to sea by 16:35 having run up 18 engine hours from Inverness. Being quite late, we decided to go only as far as Corran and anchor for the night. With a Southerly wind, we though that North West of the narrows would be calm. There’s a fish farm there, and we’d read that there were a few free visitor moorings, the fish farmers not wanting their gear snagged by anchors. We tied up had dinner and prepared for bed. “What’s that noise?” I asked. The noise was coming from underwater it sounded a bit like an old fax machine, somewhat electronic, intermittent, variable but it went on all night. We can only assume it came from the fish farm although we were never able to work out the source.

Friday 21 August Departed Corran and sailed or motored South – Loch Linnhe, past Port Appin, Lyn of Lorne, past Oban, through Sound of Kerrera, and stopped for lunch at Barrnacarry Bay near the entrance to Loch Feochan. That afternoon we went on to Crinan, arriving just before closing time and were able to get into the basin. Saturday 22 August Through the Crinan Canal for the third time (once round the Mull), and out at Ardrishaig at 14:50. It was a straightforward passage. We then spent our first overnight in Portavadie. The restaurant was booked, but we got a table in the second restaurant, where we enjoyed a very nice meal. From the days of being a derelict oil project that never took off, Portavadie is now a very nice resort. Huge fish swimming round in crystal clear water in the marina, good shelter and fine facilities. It makes a nice change from life aboard. Sunday 23 August The last leg, and the only time we encountered strong wind. An Easterly F6-7 seemed to create plenty of work for the RNLI. We measured 46 Knts on our handheld anemometer as we rounded Toward Point, and sailed under one reef back to Rhu.

By Geoff Crowley, Contender

Shetland Coastguard, this is yacht Contender.

Ben Nevis looms ahead.

Cantick Head.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 41

Winner of the Murray Blair Challenge Trophy

One Man and his Dog – in the Hebrides Arran Comrades – Freedom Ketch: long keel version 10.5 m x 3.3 m x 1.4 m – Beta 30 diesel Crew: Mike, Kirsty (woof) and Erratica (autohelm)

Kirsty in hatch.

any members were saddened by the death of Kirsty’s ‘mummy’, my wife Helen, in May 2015. Whilst only a member of the Club for a few years in the 1970s, she was widely known and liked and was an equal partner in all our big adventures. She kept her troubles completely secret from all but closest family. This cruise was conceived as a tour of cultural events, starting with the feisean on Tiree and Barra and probably not going beyond the Sea of the Hebrides. It didn’t quite work out like that but by “bugging” off work at lunchtime on Friday 3 July we could motor out from Crinan and through the Corryvreckan rather earlier on the flood than prudence might dictate; but Chris Holdstock had assured me that there was no swell out there.

The Outrun The Great Race was running at 3-4 Knts for five miles out, and still at

42 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

a knot for another couple of miles. There was an annoying slop from the NE but no sign of the fair wind that all forecasts had promised. Tomorrow was to start with rain and EastSouth East 5-7, veering to moderate SouthWest in the afternoon, so the choice was between tying to the rings in Tinker’s Hole or anchoring in the Sound of Erraid; I chose the latter as there would be no difficulty in leaving and I’m not too fond of gloomy little anchorages. I cooked a pound of mince but couldn’t dine until anchored and Kirsty had been fed and walked – i.e. about 22:00. Kirsty’s role is to provide company, meet people and keep me honest by not sailing too far, nor in bad weather. She discharges these duties doggedly. At the time she was nearly ten and had slimmed down to 32 kg; she’s not the least bit fat, just big for a Goldie bitch, and can be a handful to put aboard from the dinghy. Cruise planning has to include getting ashore morning, noon and night, without fail.

The Lift There was an Hallberg Rassy 38 outside me, swinging to a watch chain (6 mm) and it was little surprise that she dragged in the forenoon – I was having enough difficulty getting Kirsty ashore in my 2.4 metre flubber with egg whisk as there was quite a fetch in the sound despite being in little over two metres depth. In such circumstances, I take a small anchor and rope to guard against the risk of being blown out to sea. At least the landing was easy at the stone quay built to load the precision-carved blocks for Dubh Artach. The lovely wee granite model of the lighthouse seems to have disappeared from the quarry. Erraid itself was booming with an all-year population and an informal ferry to Mull. With loads more Easterlies forecast, Tiree was off the menu so when the clearance came we sailed ‘anchor-toanchor’ round to Bunessan, escorted by four adult and two baby Risso’s dolphins. We joined the Round Mull

Winner of the Murray Blair Challenge Trophy

Arran Comrades at Crinan.

Race crowd who were enjoying an excellent curry buffet from the hall committee and a dance to Tobermory duo Richard and Sandy. On sunny Sunday we sailed off the anchor and ran wing-on-wing up the West side of Mull making good progress despite a foul tide which only interfered off Cailleach Point; another time I will go close inshore. 15 fine yachts passed, beating South, and none under tin topsail – it was a really nice day – but by going the ‘wrong’ way we had to confront the verses by RLS which we had sung at Helen’s funeral: Mull was astern, Rum on the port, Eigg on the starboard bow; Glory of youth glowed in her soul: Where is that glory now? Sing me a song of a lass that is gone, Say, could that lass be I? Merry of soul she sailed on a day Over the sea to Skye. Dog stop on the first small beach at Sanna, then to Gallanach Bay,

Muck. Being Sunday evening, Muck was completely and utterly shut, so I finished the mince as a curry and K had rice which she loves. Forecast deteriorating, so left early in fog and motored to Humla as I had no desire to get stuck at Canna. Then had a pleasant reach to the marina at Loch Boisdale where we spent two nights. No doubt others will praise this new facility – it was great and is immediately a destination in its own right. We took the bus to the Co-op and to the Pollacher Inn – it runs from Eriskay to Berneray and we heard of one crew who went the whole way to Castlebay by ferry and another bus to get gas bottle in a size not stocked locally. We met Angus Alick MacDonald who was teaching the 3-row box at the Ceolas Festival (a sort of feis for adults) which was in full swing at Daliburgh with some big names from the Gaelic world giving concerts, but I didn’t have the ‘oomph’ to risk hitching there and back in the rain – it blew hard from the North East all night. Sadly Angus Alick died a few weeks later, a great loss.

The Cross Drive By Wednesday afternoon, 8 July, the wind was down to North North West 5-6 so we motor-sailed with double-reefed backsail (B2), following Pinocchio into Big Harbour, Eriskay where a mooring was free. Bracing walk to the dug-unfriendly Politician then to the Ceolas dance in the even less friendly community centre; such a welcome that we left at the interval – not like the days when the priests were in charge. On the plus side, the walk home was in ‘simmer-dim’ conditions and the pontoon good for dinghies, if not yachts. Forecast again ‘iffy’ but motored to Castlebay by the inside route for the Barra Feis and spent a pleasant afternoon, the highlight of which was the arrival of MV Clansman with a big crowd from the Tiree Feis on the non-landing ‘Muse Cruise’ which once a week conveys pre-ordered Indian carry-outs from Barra to Tiree. The Tiree kids came ashore and did a huge Orcadian Strip the Willow on the pier with the local children, to the music of the pipes. The adults

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 43

Winner of the Murray Blair Challenge Trophy lining the rail seemed to be doing more than musing. I should have gone to Northbay but mislead myself into thinking that Cornaig Bay on Vatersay would be sheltered from the South Easterly which blew F6 – it wasn’t. I was up at 02:00 in pitch black, swell and rain but couldn’t clear the strop on the chain so unable to veer any more cable and went back to bed knowing that we were in a fairly spacious bay which would give time to deal with any crisis if the GPS detected movement. At first light I managed to get more chain out and set B2 to steady things a bit. Kirsty was completely unfazed and stayed in her den under the table all night – good girl! Dog walking early, I watched a sloop under just reefed main being flattened beside Sgeir Dubh but they carried on towards Canna and I resolved to get out as soon as Kirsty was ready as the Barra Feis was clearly not for us. A horrible trip in gusty winds and lumpy seas right out to the 100 metre contour. Not enough sail up but far too rough to go on deck, so motor-sailed on to Loch Boisdale for another two nights and dined with Susan and Blair Fletcher

from Ardrishaig at the hotel, courtesy car provided. Food, drink, company and dog-welcome excellent and moderately priced. Bought two fine lumps of beef from Lawrence’s butcher’s shop at the pier. An unexpected cultural opportunity had been found in the local paper so we left early on Sunday and broad-reached under full sail on a fair tide towards Berneray. Usual indecision about where to stop for the lunchtime dog-walk, but chose Loch Eport which was new to us. Showers were passing through and one was robust enough for us to dump the frontsail and carry on at seven Knts to the loch entrance where we could sort things out while Erratica took us up the ‘canal’ and into the ‘first left’ anchorage where landing on the kelp was hazardous, but had to be done. Back out and both sails up again, we were soon in the Cope Passage where we tidied up at the Cabbage Crossroads before tackling the ferry route in what was by now South West 5-6 with showers. Executed the plan and crossed Bays Loch on the leading line to take a mooring but later thought that anchorage might have been better just North of

Arran Comrades entering Whitehills taken by Bertie Milne, Harbour Master.

44 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

the harbour – any comments? Landing at LW was weedy and rocky and sometimes we preferred to whisk over to the harbour which was somewhat cluttered with idle yachts. Braised beef for tea. Monday 13 was the day of the Sheep Dog Trials on the machair. K not impressed but the ladies of the village hall provided a great lunch. In my opinion the score was: sheep ten, dogs nil. I suspect the senior trial was in the afternoon but after shopping, somewhat optimistically for a barbecue, we left and took the

Winner of the Murray Blair Challenge Trophy ‘poles’ passage out across the flats and into the Sound of Harris using the Book’s GPS waypoints, then up the Northern part of the ferry route to Leverburgh where we tied up somewhat illegally and went ashore at 16:45 looking for outboard fuel. At the first attempt we met the only man in the village willing to swap an identical 5-litre green can, his full of unleaded, for which we gladly paid. Who says there is no God? Mission accomplished, we nipped round to Rodel and Kirsty was allowed to sit under the table while I enjoyed an excellent piece of salmon at the hotel which gratifyingly is still run by a McCallum of the same family I first met in 1969 when Rodel was a lot more ‘rustic’. They even had a bottle of Royal Household whisky but it was not for sale. I would have had it glued down! In the morning we motored then sailed over to Duntulm, graciously allowing Roman Abramovich to pass ahead in his super-yacht Eclipse (£1.5 billion/557 feet) while we were entertained by 20-odd porpoises or so. Landing on the island looked impossible at LW so dropped the hook in Port Erisco and rowed K ashore. The hotel was closed. Gentle sail round the top of Skye at the turn of the (favourable) tide and on to Staffin Bay where I had hoped to spend the night, but getting ashore was near impossible with steep banks of football-sized shingle. We managed to get onto a patch of sand that was fast disappearing under the flood then K made off towards a rotting seal carcass; oh the joys! Spent the night in Rona with another 12 boats and fired up the BBQ, sending herb-scented carnivorous vapours around the jealous fleet. (I later discovered that the proper landing at Staffin is in the rock-strewn channel between Staffin Island and Skye to the South East and there are ambitions to make a proper harbour there.) Rona and its two inhabitants were featured in a BBC Alba programme, shown just weeks later; made in 2014 but still current – what a pity I didn’t see it before visiting. The forecast was good for a sail to Plockton but the wind didn’t play ball so we motored, as the outlook

was turning grotty again, and there was some doubt about the wisdom of lingering. I had a hunch that there might be entertainment which was rewarded with a ‘session’ in the hotel – four fiddles, various other players and a guy, whose name I didn’t get, on a very special wee 60-bass accordion. He sometimes plays second box with Robert Nairn’s Ceilidh Band. Ate lunch and tea ashore – dog friendly. There was now only one place to be; tied up at Mallaig, and Inverie, the Small Isles and the South West

unwelcoming Sound of Sleat from the promenade. There was to be a ‘bash’ on Muck on the Thursday, but our attendance seemed improbable.

The Shed The library opened at 10:30 and XCWeather suggested that while today was bad, Wednesday would be worse and Thursday worse still, so we motor-sailed out under B2, wind WSW 4-6, and fetched the Point of Sleat on port tack where we tacked and could lay under Rum and Eigg, anchoring off the latter in

Arran Comrades, Coll. Taken by Brian Hignet.

coast of Skye would just have to wait for another year. Hot-footed it down there in the morning as soon as the tide served at more than the usual revs, passing Glenelg where there was a gig due that night. We were well looked after by the Harbour Master who knew that things would get tight – I had phoned ahead and he said he would fit us in, rafting if necessary. I think he ended up with 70 boats in the 50-berth marina. On Friday morning Kirsty and I took the train home to Largs as it was hopeless to contemplate cruising in the accepted sense of the word. Good fish supper but no sign of Eilidh Shaw who used to play on a Thursday evening. That Friday night, the Tiree Music Festival was blown away. Sunday was fine but Southwesterly which precluded most of the local flesh-pots, so we missed little. We returned at midnight on Monday 20 July and in the morning surveyed an

the traditional anchorage at 14:20 and having a ‘pie and a pint’ before carrying on, eventually to Loch Cuan off the obelisk, a rather nice wee anchorage where the few moorings had been laid so as to leave space for two or three visitors to anchor. Good landing at HW in the boat harbour and a view of the sunset. While the forecast was unhelpful, I had felt that there would be a lull and/or veer through the night so if we had stuck for a few hours at Eigg or Muck we could have carried on later. Aztec was ahead of us and they also found conditions less bad as they approached Ardnamurchan, somewhat against expectations. Sailed anchor-to-mooring in the morning – of course it wasn’t as bad as forecast – beating rather slowly into Tobermory Bay and right up to the waterfall before wafting down to the buoy nearest the pontoon in preparation for the Mull Games

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 45

Winner of the Murray Blair Challenge Trophy next day. This was great fun, fresh showery breeze for the athletics, Angus’s Oban High School Pipe Band in grand form, tea-time session with Richard and Sandy in the Mishnish followed by Skipinish in the Aros Hall. What more could you want?

Sailed off and once comfortably clear of Lismore Light, went below to shave, and while finishing up noticed the Lismore Ferry bearing down at speed – how rude to disturb a gentleman at his toilet! We were a bit ahead of the tide, so dropped the frontsail and made a tour of Salmore Bay with the backsail while waiting for the 13:10 forecast, before running gently under the Connel Bridge and on towards Bonawe, now under full sail which became a bit of a handful as we approached that lee shore. Far too cluttered with moorings, so adopted a technique used for regatta work off Largs and in 30m of water put down the Wee Bruce (10 kg) with a bit of chain, 35m of rope, a bit more chain and another 35m of rope which was fine in these conditions. Holding is usually much better at depths beyond seaweed level and the Bruce is good on short scope. I’ve done the same in

The Pen Cruises with a day or two to spare sometimes founder in Loch Sunart but with an outlook of a strong South Easterly on the Sunday, an alternative ploy suggested itself, starting with another ‘all-sail’ trip via the Doirlinn to Craignure where I now anchor close off the concrete slip, 200 yards North West of the linkspan inside the local moorings. This is handy for the shop and the incredibly dog-friendly pub where you’re not properly dressed without a pooch. Good bar supper.

Tobermory Bay in a South Easterly. Fairly good landing at the pier. Ashore, the Taynuilt Hotel was in very good shape after its long closure. Later recovered the gear and spent the night in the gut just West of Airds Point beside MFV Unity which used to lie in Tarbert. We were ready for an early start. Again we were an hour earlier on the tide than The Good Book suggests but had only two Knts fair under the bridge. Brisk motor-sail via Oban Bay and Easdale to Craobh for diesel and dog-walk, then on to Bellanoch by mid-afternoon, ready for work in Lochgilphead next morning. Despite the weather it had been a good cruise and showed that K and I are a viable team, provided she keeps me honest!

By Mike Johnston, Arran Comrades

Cruise of Arran Comrades – July 2015 Date

Motor

Left*

Arrived*

02 July

Crinan

03 July

Erraid

04 July

Bunessan

05 July

Sanna / Muck

S/S

E/E

06 July

Lochboisdale

08 July

Eriskay

09 July

Castlebay / Cornaig

E/E

10 July

Lochboisdale

12 July

L. Eport / Berneray

E/E

13 July

Leverburgh / Rodel

E/E

14 July

P. Erisco / Staffin / Rona

E/E/S

E/S/E

15 July

Plockton

16 July

Mallaig

21 July

Eigg / L. Cuan

E/E

22 July

Tobermory

24 July

Craignure

25 July

Bonawe

26 July

Craobh / Bellanoch

E/E

154

127

432 n miles

Totals

Sail

M/sail

151

*E = Engine, S = Sail

46 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

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Log Book By Tom, Age 7

Odyssey II – Sigma 33 Crew: Me, Harry, Susie, Alex, Granny Babs, Grandpa Harold.

rmory bay.

Odyssey II in Tobe

48 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

wanted to spend my summer sailing on the West Coast of Scotland so we could have lots of fun as a family. We agreed with Granny and Grandpa to take Odyssey II through the Crinan Canal to Craobh Haven to meet all our friends. We had lots of fun the first night at Craobh in the Marina and spent our first day sailing round Shuna. From Craobh Haven, we sailed up to Oban which is a distance of about 20 miles and took us most of the day. There were lots of fun things to see, such as the Corryvreckan (the third biggest whirlpool in the world) and lots of lighthouses.

Water fights in Tobermory.

Winner of the Barra Cup

Gathering at Croabh. Top L-R – Lara McLellan, Ben Turner, Harry Matthews; Mid L-R – Marc Turner, Alex Matthews, Susie Matthews, Ewan McLellan; Bottom L-R – Robbie Littlefield, Emilie Turner, Tom Matthews, Ella McLellan, Harry Farquharson, Charlie Farquharson, Eriskay McLellan.

We also sailed past Seil Island. This is the island that is connected to the mainland by the Bridge over the Atlantic. Next to Seil is Easdale Island, where they used to mine slate until it was flooded and the miners lost all their tools. That night, we stayed in Oban Marina on the Island of Kerrera. Our next sail was to Tobermory. I LOVE Tobermory because it was where the TV show Balamory was filmed. You can see all of the colourful houses and I spent all of my holiday money in Susie Sweets’ shop. We finished off the day with a massive water fight with all our friends. After a couple of days in Tobermory, we started sailing back home. We stopped in Oban, and then headed for the Us sailing to Oban.

Crinan Canal. It was really busy and we had to wait in a queue of 4/5 boats before we could get in. We were lucky as we managed to squeeze in a full lock. The Crinan Canal has 16 locks – eight up and eight down. We helped the lockkeepers and the other boat owners by opening and closing the gates. A man on one of the other boats gave Harry and I £5 for helping – his boat was called Jochr. On the last day, we headed back for Rhu. It was a bit wet and we motored all the way because of wind. I loved my holiday!!!

By Tom Matthews, Odyssey Date

Course

Wind

Weather

2.8.15

Round Shuna

Cloudy

3.8.15

Craobh–Oban

Cloudy sun

4.8.15

NO SAILING

Too windy

Very windy!!

5.8.15

ObanTobermory

F1/2

Rain

6.8.15

Sound of Mull

Cloudy rain

7.8.15

TobermoryOban

F0/f3

Cloudy

8.8.15

Oban-Crinan

Cloudy

9.8.15

Crinan-Rhu

Cloudy

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 49

Anna’s Log – Age 9

Tangaroa – Pronavia 38 Crew: Mummy, Daddy & Ross

Saturday 25 July: We left on Tangaroa from Colintraive with Granny, heading to Ardrishaig at 15:30 and got there at 19:00. We stayed in the basin. Sunday 26 July: We started going through the canal at 09:00 and ended at 15:30. We stayed in the basin. Monday 27 July: The next day we started heading to Puilladobhrain at 12:15 and arrived at 16:30 and I went up the mast to do a job putting up the burgee halyard. Then Ross went up the mast for fun. We went ashore to the bar and had fun. Tuesday 28 July: We left Puilladobhrain at 09:00 heading for Oban to drop Granny off and get some water at 11:45 and left at 12.30. We got to Tobermory at 15:30 and did some shopping at 17:00.

Tangaroa at Loch Drumbuie.

50 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Dolphins at Ardnamurchan.

Des and Anna dancing at the Ceilidh, Muck.

Wednesday 29 July: We went ashore for a wee while. When we left at 12.00 midday it was very lumpy and bumpy and me and Ross felt a bit sick. When we eventually got to Coll at 14.30 we went ashore, did the washing and had a drink. We came back to the boat and had yummy chicken fajitas. Played cards and had fun! Thursday 30 July: Went to the beach and met John, Gabby, Edith and Anna, it was fun! When we got back we started to go to Loch Drumbuie at 17:00 and arrived at 20:06. Friday 31 July: We woke up, played two games of backgammon and at 14:00 we got dressed. After we went up Loch Sunart and into Salen – we went ashore to the shop to buy some things at 17:00 then we went to the Salen Inn for a drink. It was someone’s birthday. We came back to the boat and had sausage pasta, played cards and went to bed. Saturday 1 August: This morning we left Salen at 11:00 and sailed all the way to Loch Aline, arriving at 14:30. When Jonathan, Fraser, Robert, Uncle Dave, Auntie Jo, Granny and Grandpa arrived we had supper which was carbonara and chocolate cake! After we watched Hong Kong Fooey then I helped Jonathan build his model car and went to bed. Sunday 2 August: We stayed at Loch Aline until 12:30 and then set sail for Loch Drumbuie. At 15:30 we went ashore. On the way back

everyone got wet. Me, Ross, Mummy, Daddy and Jonathan went for a walk. Then we had macaroni and mince. We came back and went to bed. Monday 3 August: This morning I went to Pinocchio and slid by accident off the back in my wetsuit. After we went for a walk all the way to the top. We then went to the shore in our wetsuits and played – after that we came back and had supper, then we went to bed. Tuesday 4 August: We went to Pinocchio to make a plan and have lunch. We left Loch Drumbuie at 16:00. We arrived at Tobermory at 17:00 – went to the shops and then out for dinner. Wednesday 5 August: We got up and then went ashore for a shower, then we went to the shops.We came back and went to Muck. At Muck we went to Catherine and Grace’s boat (Sapphire). Thursday 6 August: We got up and went for a walk and got wet then we went back to the boat for lunch.Then we motored up and out of the entrance and came back in again because it was too choppy.We went to the Ceilidh at 18:00 and it was great.When we got back at 22:30 we went to bed. Friday 7 August: After breakfast we left Muck at 11:00 heading for Ardnamurchan and we saw porpoises. When we got to Loch Aline we played then we had dinner which was sausage pasta, and then we went to bed.

Saturday 8 August: This morning I got up, had breakfast and played with our cousins. Then we had to say bye and motor-sail to the Crinan Canal. There was a big queue when we got there, however, we did finally get in. We went to the Seafood Bar for dinner, which was a real treat. Sunday 9 August: Today at 09:00 we went through the canal and we got out at 17:00 – quite a long day. We went to Portavadie – had a play ashore and had a hot-chocolate. Monday 10 August: We came out of Portavadie and went to Carry Farm to see Emilie and Ben and Olivia and Sophie. Emilie and Olivia came on the boat for a sleepover. Tuesday 11 August: It’s my Birthday! I got a bacon roll and opened a present from Ross, which was a ring and bracelet. I went ashore with Emilie and Sophie and helped and then I had to say bye and go back out to the boat. We went to get Emma and Maree from the ferry and then we got Granny. We all went to Kames for lunch and went for a swim in the sea. We then dropped Emma, Maree and Granny back to Colintraive, picked up our mooring and went ashore to see Livy Forbes. Wednesday 12 August: We got up and went home.

By Anna Balmforth, Tangaroa

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 51

Exploring the Galapagos

Aros Mear 29 November 2014 to 24 February 2015 Aros Mear – Norseman 447 Crew: David and Gitte Bushby Guests: Hans Cristian Meredin Jane Dixon Warren

e had returned to Baja de Caraquez in Ecuador in late September 2014, after installing the new water maker and fitting the boat for cruising in the higher latitudes.We planned to sail South to Chile for an exciting season in the fjords. Fitting the water maker was a long process at the end of which I was more than satisfied. Initial testing was tricky as we were moored in a river estuary where the water is none too clean but I did a short trial at the top of the incoming tide and all was well with a healthy output of 20 gallons per hour. Power was from the new generator installed the previous year. Galapagos was also on the agenda. We had planned a tourist trip for a week but after talking to fellow cruisers the best option was to sail there and spend three months visiting three islands. How right they were! A fair amount of organisation with documentation was required and we engaged an agent on the islands.We needed an extension to our visa, which was protocol madness. No one goes around with a marriage certificate, freshly countersigned by the registrar. We ditched that idea and paid the extra to go as separate individuals at double the cost. Come the 29 November we

Tortoise.

52 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

were ready to go with a super clean hull below the waterline as required by the islands. Arioso, the diver, had been threatened with a thrashing should he not complete this task satisfactorily. Failure could mean a 40 mile run out to sea with a diver to remove the barnacles. Two boats left the moorings that morning at the top of the tide with Pedro piloting us out. Sailing out is tricky yet we maintained the same GPS track over land as we used coming in. Such is the accuracy in these waters. Depths went down to zero as before but this time we grounded twice in the soft sand; just part of life in these parts. Eventually we were clear and

we said farewell to Pedro and $50. On setting course for the Galapagos, Gitte’s brother, Hans Christian, an avid racer, who had joined us for the sail, soon had the sails set in a South/South-Westerly F5 for a good speed through the water. It was time to give the water maker a good run in the clear waters of the Pacific. On went the generator and very quickly clean fresh water was flowing until the note changed.The frequency had risen from 60 Hz to 74 Hz. I turned off everything but could not change the frequency back to normal so that was the end of water making until we could return to Panama.We survived, of course, but had to suffer shorter showers. Also it spelt the end

Rock close to Villamil.

Yellow iguana.

Blue footed booby.

Villamil.

of any idea of going South.There was another problem as we were relying on only three of the four D8 gel batteries. Try as I could there was no source for these in Ecuador.Though we could have reached Chile with three, water was a different matter. Sailing remained excellent in South and South Westerly winds but the sea state on the second day was distinctly uncomfortable due to the cross currents off the coast of Ecuador. However, the following day seas were good again and we made splendid progress logging 179 nm in 24 hours just South of the equator, heading straight to the Galapagos. Each morning at 09:00 I would join the Pacific cruisers’ net on SSB to give our position and a weather report.The signals were always good and the net controller would be either in Panama or Bahia de Caraquez.This amateur service is vital and requires a daily check-in until reaching port. Furthermore our rapid progress was being noticed. Around 03:00 on the 3 December we could see the loom of the lights on Isla Cristobal. Our course led us around the North of the island to catch the favourable current and as we approached the harbour we sailed inside the spectacular rock of the “Sleeping Lion”, Rocher Leon Dormido, which we would later visit. Soon we had laid the anchor in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno having been at sea for only four days and seven hours and a total distance sailed 550 nm. It is a lovely anchorage within a bay hosting numerous small boats, a town with houses of no more than three storeys and a backdrop of low hills in the distance. It was not long before

the arrival of Bolivar, our agent, and a boat-load of officials, including a diver. It seemed a pointless exercise as we had all the necessary documentation and the diver surfaced, thumbs up.With all parties sipping fruit juices that we had been advised to provide, Bolivar took me aside saying that he would send his son down to remove a few barnacles under the keel. I was wary but had to agree, thinking this some ruse to extract more cash. How unjust can one get? Next morning the son appeared ready for a free dive. After a short period with brief surfacing for air, he was back on board with a small handful of barnacles. Cost? “Daddy will pay me!”That was the start to a friendship and superb service that we received from Bolivar and his family. Ashore he took us around town, briefing us on the various amenities available with advice about the islands in general. Sea lions were everywhere, at the dinghy dock, on the steps, on the seats on the pier in the streets and on benches too. Although they have the faces of Labradors and are generally harmless, petting is not advised, especially the bulls.These are very protective of their many females and calves. A marauding male is given short shrift. On a sandy beach I was chased even though I had not paid any attention to a sea lion. On their flippers they are capable of a fair speed. We spent nearly a month at San Cristobal. On day two we fell for a guy who wished to show us some of the island and a tortoise centre followed by a meal in his house.The meal was a bit of a con, but by car we saw a lush green interior and a refuge for young tortoises. As black rats and other predators take their eggs and kill the

newly born, rangers collect eggs from the breeding grounds and hatch them in incubators. For up to four years they are kept in cages and enclosures, they are then let back into the wild so now the population is increasing again – a great scheme. In the wild we saw some very large fellows slowly wandering around or retreating into their shell if we came too close. Close to the anchorage there was a good walk over a small hill to the breeding site of frigate birds on a high cliff and in the sea below there was good snorkelling, once a dangerous rock had been negotiated together with some unfriendly sea lions and their pups. Other animals and birds abounded.There was a large number of small lizards and iguanas both land and sea species. As for Darwin, he is well remembered with several centres built to commemorate his work.We came to see many of his famous finches that had various beaks depending on location and available food.The ‘boobies’ are something else.There are three species, red and blue footed and the Nazca.The first two are spectacular with coloured feet but the last is a finer looking bird. We had fair sightings of the frigate birds with their large red gular pouch. On 18 December we left Isla San Cristobel for Santa Cruz and Puerto Ayora just 40 miles away to the West. It was a good sail in a Southerly F3 to 4.The harbour lies at the South-East corner of the island but is exposed. We took a visitors buoy and had an uncomfortable night but next day we set the anchor very close to a cliff and an old wooden ketch.The owner kindly helped us to lay the stern anchor, which is mandatory here in the tight

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 53

Rough water off Punta Mala.

Water Isla de Cebaco.

Resting under spinnaker.

Fish Market Santa Cruz.

harbour. It was amazing how this light Danforth of just 25 lbs held and required no further attention during our time there. Again we were in a beautiful place with fine houses above the cliff and a pretty town.The owner of the ketch was Polish and had lived in Galapagos for many years. Many will have seen the BBC documentary. It was this man who took the film crew around the islands, Lenin Cruz. Here we could use the dinghy as the sea lions were fewer and less anxious to rest afloat but to reach the landing at the cliffs we had to call a water taxi as the jetties were private or very small. From here there were walks well worth investigating that took us around a salting lake and past the splendid Italian Consulate miles from anywhere and slumbering.There were also the freshwater pools of Las Grietas

54 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

that lay in a narrow cleft between high cliffs.The approach was along a new well-made path, over swamps and close to tall cacti.We saw many species of coloured lizards everywhere. At the pools everybody seemed to be queuing to enter the water off steep perilous rocks.We made it with our snorkelling gear and could see the few interesting fish below.These are really sea fish but spend the early part of their lives in these pools. The town is pretty and busy being the main town of the Galapagos.We could easily get Wi-Fi in a restaurant as usual but this one did not change the password twice a day as at the last anchorage. Gitte would occasionally stand outside for a brief connection. However, we were usually more honest and bought the required coffee or meal. Further down the street was the most

dramatic fish market, very small, busy and attended by many sea lions pelicans and iguanas all looking for the chance to grab a morsel of fish.The pelicans seemed to be the craziest as they would fill their pouches with huge fish bones. I suppose they were either digested, rejected or just stayed there forever! The sea lions would get up on their hind flippers and look plaintively, like Labradors for the next morsel. In fact they were spoilt. On the branches of the nearby trees frigate birds would look down upon the scene below, also full of hope.Truly amazing! We made a visit inland to see another tortoise reserve and have a walk in the tropical scrub land.To get there we travelled on a new highway, nearing completion, which served the airport at the North end. We weighed anchor on the 29 December making the day’s sail to Isla

Isabela and Puerto Villamil. A good sail again and as we approached the island we passed close to Isla Tortuga, which is no more than a volcano at sea level. It is horseshoe shaped with a large central lagoon. Entrance to the anchorage was a bit tricky but, following a transit and then picking up a series of buoys, we achieved a safe passage to anchor close to friends on SV Sundancer, Ron and Heather. Good to catch up with our friends of more than a year.This had to be the best anchorage yet in a well sheltered bay, rocks nearby with many blue-footed boobies, penguins, sea lions of course and a small town close but not too close. We had a good agent here, known as JC, who spoke English and who was kind enough to take us around the town.Villamil is less developed, but still with sandy roads and very few smart houses.We liked it instantly. Before returning to the boat JC introduced us to Jim who ran the Booby Trap restaurant and who could give us Wi-Fi at any time. He and his wife were great and New Year’s Eve was a spectacular event with people everywhere.The bars and cafes were alive, there was a raised stage for artists and local talent and at midnight one of the finest firework displays I have ever seen in such a small town and with no expense or originality spared. Effigies were burned in the street and vast structures festooned with fireworks were set ablaze.Then there were hundreds of lanterns sent high up into the sky to meet the moon far away.This lasted for hours. In the small hours we took the long walk back to the dinghy dock and as the tide was out we then had the long haul to avoid the sandbanks to get back to the boat. There was much to be seen on Isla Isabela. I have already mentioned the penguins, which were not to be found on the other two islands.They are small inquisitive birds and really very friendly. While cleaning the hull one day they seemed to join in, probably seeking small animals that we had disturbed. Ashore there were some large iguanas and one rocky prominence was alive with them. Being black and dark grey they were hard to spot initially.There were two ponds with flamingos and another where they could be seen occasionally.They stamp the pond mud

to raise the food to the surface. It was like watching a dance.We used the bikes regularly and nearby there was the Wall of Tears.This had been built by prisoners for no other reason than to keep them busy. It is an amazing structure, large and solid, and built within the confines of the camp. Isla Isabella has several active volcanoes and we visited Sierra Negra on a ten mile hike.This took us past one of the largest craters in the world that lies in tropical scrub-land. On the way out we saw little of it as there was a lot of low mist. In 2005 there had been an eruption leaving a vast area of coloured lava, blue, red, yellow with many other hues. There were tubes of lava that I could not explain but I was later told they were formed from trees having been burnt by the hot lava. Some hollows were still quite hot to the touch. On the way back the mist had lifted so we had a good sight of Sierra Negra and its huge bowl. Must not forget the mocking bird as they could be seen everywhere along with the finch of Darwin fame. A boat trip took us to Los Tuneles where we saw a truly remarkable site of lava tunnels on a rocky shore. Here we saw young blue-footed boobies, penguins, sharks, turtles and a seahorse. We were able to snorkel in and out of these tunnels. Before leaving the islands we returned to Isla Cristobal, which was a sail of more than 90 miles and this we did overnight to reach the harbour early in the day.We were against currents and variable winds otherwise it was straightforward. Sister Jane joined us for a week. She had been a little apprehensive about the tourism of the islands but soon fell into line! We had one more activity to do, snorkelling around the “Sleeping Lion”. Here the waters are crystal clear and very deep.We were with sharks, turtles and numerous fish.We were near the end of our visit.To reach Panama we had to wait for a reasonable forecast and currents as, again, this was an uphill voyage. Currents are well demonstrated on the Nullschool Earth site and we were getting good forecasts over the Cruisers’ Pacific SSB net. By the 5 February we were ready to go with the intention of sailing

Eastwards to eventually reach the Columbian coast, making the best of the winds and current with a total distance of about 1000 nm.We weighed anchor at 11:00 and we were soon on our way with extra fuel and water in a South-Easterly F3/4 breeze that took us past our favourite Sleeping Lion rock, North of Isla Cristobel and out Eastwards, away from the archipelago. Gradually the wind subsided to F2 and we eventually started the engine. We kept to a North-Easterly course in an effort to get South of the West going current and to make the Columbian coast. In the middle of day two the wind picked up a little and veered to the South West so we raised the spinnaker for five hours. Being asymmetrical it was a pleasure to handle! The current changed in our favour, going Northwards towards the end of the day. Spirits were high in spite of the daily distance being only 96 nm. However, the winds remained a light South-Easterly, with the current helping us Northwards initially as we were making little headway Easterly over the ground.The daily average was never much more than 100 nm. It was to be a long haul and we were using too much fuel and water, which was becoming a cause of concern. On the fourth day we sited Isla Malpelo lying 500 miles off the Columbian Coast and some 700 miles to Panama.The current now seemed to be taking us Westwards, making it difficult to keep a course for Panama in what was then a North-Easterly F2. So we had to head for Costa Rica, which for us was a no-go country, having had to leave it without papers two years ago. However, we still had a dwindling fuel and water supply.We had been in daily contact on the Pacific Cruisers’ net, which was able to confirm that water and fuel could be had in West Panama.The pilot book certainly indicated three sources, two being on islands. Over the next five days in the same winds, or lack of them, and with very little use of the engine we edged towards our goal. Our lack of fuel and water was becoming more and more of a concern.There was very little shipping and we passed only one yacht, even though we were not too far from the shipping lanes to Punta Mala. By

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 55

Wall of Tears.

the 15 February we were in sight of West Panama and Isla Coiba. Gitte baked some yucca bread and at 15:00 we anchored in Ensenada Hermosa in the North of the island.This is a pretty bay on the North-West side. It was certainly a fine place after so many days at sea and now with enough fuel and water for the short run for resupply. Not noted but I am sure we had a good celebration. Next day we headed for Isla Cebaco and Ensenada Naranjo, where we expected to find the fuel barge but it was not there. Debbie “on the net” had assured us that there was a 98% chance of it being at its moorings unfortunately this was the 2%! There was little going on but there were many mooring buoys and buildings at the head of the bay.Water by now was down to just ten gallons in the tanks.We could see buildings and also a truck, so we reasoned there would be a road out of the place. In the morning we went ashore to find a centre for fishing but not a soul in sight, though all doors were open.The truck was a broken down wreck with no sign of a road going anywhere.Where was the water supply? No sign of that either. Should be somewhere and the clue came over the net.We were told to look for a black pipe descending from the hill and close to the barge moorings.We found the moorings close to the cliff plus a freshwater stream and pipe.There was a pool before the water flowed into the sea but we could not see the end to the pipe so we filled a couple of cans from the pool.This seemed crazy as the pipe would surely be supplying the barge.

56 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

In the water we found a small fishing net yellow buoy attached to a green pipe but still no water. Close by there was another and, hey presto, there was another green pipe with water flowing from it, sweet and delicious! We were to live on and have a shower. As for the fuel we just had to wait. We were there for four days.There was some activity around. Folk appeared on the shore and two small sports boats picked up moorings.The barge had to return, we hoped, and at 06:00 on the fourth morning we were woken by a ship’s horn.There was a ship that looked like a small ferry with a blue awning over the stern deck.We let it pick up the moorings and settle before investigating. “Tienes diesel?” “Si”. So there she was, a ship converted to a fuel barge.We had but $200 between us and without that we would have been scuppered. At $6 per gallon, normally £2.00, we hoped to buy enough to get us round Punta Mala and onto Panama City. It was the 20 February and at 12:00 we weighed anchor.There was a light North Easterly wind that veered South West which gave slow but good sailing to the Westerly point of the headland that divides East and West Panama. Here the sunset but we were well on the 85 nm course to Punta Mala. Mixed sailing and motoring overnight carried us Eastward but we made slow progress and anchored for the night in Ensenda Benao, 20 miles short of the Punta. Set sail again in the morning in very light winds but these soon picked up to North North Easterly F 3-4.To keep out of the worst of the current which

sets Westward out of the Gulf we sailed within 1 nm of the headland.This also kept us well inside the very busy shipping lane but we did have to cross it eventually to make for Islas Perlas. Now well into the Gulf we were faced with the almost constant Northerly winds and out-going current. However, we were going NorthEast. It was a long night and at daybreak we were at the South end of the islands with a favourable tide taking us Northwards between Isla del Rey and Isla San Jose. But not for long, and being quite tired we thought of anchoring until there was a change of tides. As the morning developed the winds increased to give us a good chance of making Isla Contadora. It proved to be a good choice and we made the island at about 13:30. It was quiet ashore so we stayed on board for an early rise and the 40 nm to Panama. Nearly there! We arrived the next day, 24 February, at our usual anchorage close to the harbour entrance in amongst a large fleet. Bravado took us through the fleet to find room to lay the anchor but not without the accustomed hassle to set into the soft black mud. Success and the boat did not move until we had had the generator repaired and the batteries replaced when she was taken to Isla Taboga for the summer lay-up.We had made it in a long haul of 19 days.

By David Bushby, Aros Mear

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Multi award winning for food & hospitality over many years, the coll hotel’s warm welcome awaits you. The Coll Hotel uses only the best of local ingredients including langoustine, squats, crab, lobster & dived scallops. Coll grown salad & vegetables. Beautiful garden overlooking the bay for a meal or just a relaxing drink. Lunch 12pm – 2pm • Light afternoon snack 2pm – 6pm Dinner 6pm – 9pm last orders.

Also, add in the International Paints Logo that appears on Boatcraft’s 2015

Reservations for restaurant dining advised. Bar open from 11am all day every day. See visiting yacht logs dating back to 1962 in the hotel lounge. 12 new yacht moorings in the bay, £10 per night. Honesty box on pier or pay at the hotel. Double rooms from £100 b&b • Laundry service £10 wash & dry Shower with towel £3.50(£1.50 if dining). Calor gas & Camping Gaz suppliers • Free WiFi in the hotel & garden. tel: 01879 230334 email: info@collhotel.com www.collhotel.com

Wash • Polish • Interior Valet Sail Wash Antifouling & Antifouling Removal Based at Clyde • Marina Osmosis Treatment Coppercoat • Teak Programs (Restorer, Cleaner & Brightener) Gel Repairs • Other Services Available Tel: 07815 496 781 E-mail: ajsj7@hotmail.com

NORTH CHANNEL CIRCUIT Church Bay Rathlin.

Dream Catcher – 2001 Bavaria 40 Crew: Alastair & Dorothy Cameron, Clive & Flora Reeves, Molly The Seadog Total Distance 280 miles: 190 sailing, 60 motor-sailing, 30 motoring.

e had arranged to meet Clive and Flora at Troon.We set off from Tarbert at 10:00, setting the genoa in the South-West breeze.The sun was out and we had a great sail most of the way, only having to motor for a short time. Surprisingly, the route from Tarbert to Troon is a straight line, shaving Garroch Head en-route. As usual, there was a sea running in Troon Bay, and the wind got up as we approached the harbour. Someone took our warps as we reached the visitor’s pontoon, making the berthing easy. I got the boat tied up with my usual generous quota of warps while Dorothy walked Molly The Spaniel, who had behaved impeccably on the journey. Clive brought a large quantity of bags down to the boat – clothes, waterproofs, food, and drink – which were unpacked and “stowed” in the Store Room (aka the port stern cabin). We then joined in with the CCC Troon Race party, enjoying the pizza and refreshments generously provided by Stephen, the beer chilled to perfection in the rubber dinghy. Clive took his Vice Commodore duty very seriously, staying at the party until the end. Next day we watched the boats troop out for the CCC race back to Largs, then motored out ourselves at 11:00, heading South.We had hatched a plan to sail to Ireland for a few days, and

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Lady Bay in Loch Ryan was to be our first stop. With Clive on board there was to be none of this “cruising lark”, so both sails were hoisted.We could not lay a direct course, but we could make good enough progress in the right direction, close hauled. Down past the Heads Of Ayr, Culzean Castle, and Girvan, it was a sunny day with lovely views. After Maidens we rolled the genoa and motor-sailed the rest of the way, arriving at about four o’clock and anchoring right on the anchor on the plotter. Clive and I went ashore to walk Molly. It was a fair distance to the landing beach in the bay so we used the outboard. Amazingly, this was the first time this year we had used the outboard. Fortunately the days of unreliable Seagulls with their clogged up spark plugs are over, and the Suzuki started immediately. After we had remember to put the kill-cord on that was! Molly did her usual cavorting on the beach: in and out of the sea, through the sand dunes, over the rocks, and through the farmer’s fields of corn! After a day on the boat she can be like a coiled spring, which is released the moment the dinghy touches the shore. Back on board, I did some unsuccessful (as usual) fishing; the frustration eased by a very large G&T. Flora had brought some butcher’s steak

pies, which were delicious. A couple of glasses of wine continued the gradual descent into holiday mode. Molly needed walked again, so that privilege fell to me, as skipper and general dogsbody (no pun intended). Going ashore was fine, but by the time I was heading back out to the boat it had got dark. I had had the forethought (surprisingly) to put the anchor light on to guide me back, so it was all fine. No sea monsters arose from the deep to swallow me up. We were up at 08:30 next morning, breakfasted, dog walked and weighed anchor by 09:30. It was another sunny day, with a good breeze.We were able to sail directly to Carrickfergus on one tack, at between 6 and 7 Knts. The coffee was flowing as usual on Dream Catcher, but it did not stop the occasional snooze and snore from the crew members of more advanced years (names withheld). I called up the marina on the VHF and was offered a choice of berths – facing in, facing out, port-to, starboardto to, etc. I plumped for one and we were soon berthed and secure.The marina is very nice, secure, and sheltered, apart from the long visitor’s pontoon directly opposite the entrance, which is exposed to swell. I was glad I had called up and not just gone straight onto that.To top off our welcome we were offered a second night of free berthing.

We had a meal at the Swift Restaurant about 100 m from the marina. As we were in Ireland, Clive and I felt obliged to try a Guinness (or two). Tuesday dawned bright and dry again.Was this the summer at last? Our plan was to motor up to Belfast Marina, do the Titanic Experience, and motor back to Carrickfergus. As we left the marina, we had to be careful as we headed up Belfast Lough. Apart from the main channel, it is surprisingly shallow (with 2m), not uncommon. Once in the main channel all we had to contend with were the very large ferries and cargo ships. I was amazed at what a bustling industrial port Belfast is.There are so many ferry terminals, cargo docks, and rig docks, handling ships of all sizes. Listening in on the harbourmaster VHF channel, it was a hive of activity to be co-ordinated. I was struck at the contrast between this thriving port and the inactivity we see on the Clyde, with docks lying unused for most of the time, and the closed shipyards. We had been warned at Carrickfergus that Belfast Marina gets very busy, but when I called up on the VHF I was told there were several free berths, and we could take our pick.The marina is right in the middle of Belfast, in the Titanic Quarter.There has been a lot of money spent in the regeneration of the area, with the Titanic building being the main attraction.We did not want to rush the Titanic Experience so we decided to stay overnight in Belfast. It was only £16 for 24 hours, which seemed pretty good value, given the prime location.

A small snack.

We “did” the Titanic Experience, taking about three hours to go round. It is very well done, and covers a lot of non-Titanic Belfast history as well. I found it very interesting, as I knew a fair bit about Titanic.This was due to Ewen (No.2 son) being obsessed with Titanic as a child and teenager. Our house is full of Titanic books, photos, a large 3D jigsaw, DVDs and videos of all the films, and even a Titanic ship’s bell on the wall! We phoned Ewen and took great pleasure in telling him where we were. He was not happy at all. Jealous would be the understatement of the year. Incandescent with rage would be more accurate! Friends,Tom and Annette, who live near Belfast came on board for dinner. We sat in the sunny cockpit for a while and then enjoyed a curry feast followed by cheesecake and fruit.We had a really good laugh, reminiscing and catching up. Our plan the next day was to motor back down the loch to Carrickfergus, collect our warps (we had left them on the pontoon, expecting to return the previous night) and then continue to Ballycastle. However, the rain was bucketing down by the time we reached Carrickfergus, so we decided to stay there for the day.The marina manager very kindly let us use our “second night free” that night. One noticeable element of our Irish stays was the hospitality of the people and the much cheaper marina prices. With the rain looking like it was on for the day we decided to go the pictures (or as the youth of today call it, the cinema).The chosen film was The

Man From Uncle. As we got settled, Clive was dispatched to buy provisions for the two hours of the film. He came back with various packets of sweets and we got stuck in immediately.That was when one of us (again, name withheld) started a ruckus. A pair of glasses was dropped, prompting several minutes of standing up, sitting back down, lifting seats, and searching and grovelling on the cinema floor.Then the sticky sweet wrappers became liberally distributed over skin, seats, and clothes.Then the hysterical laughter started. It was like a chimp’s tea party. I think the other film-goers couldn’t decide whether to watch us or the film on the screen. After the cinema, we topped up on provisions at the supermarket just opposite the marina, bought some steaks, and went back on board for dinner. It finally dried up at about 19:00, just in time for me to take Molly out. I met an intrepid traveller from New Zealand who was touring Ireland, living out of his hire car. He was very well organised, sitting in the car boot with the hatchback open, surrounded by his bedding, food, little camp stove, and his (nearly empty) bottle of New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignon.What more could a traveller ask for? Next morning we left Carrickfergus at 08:30 and headed for Ballycastle.The weather was dry but grey, with a gentle breeze gradually building from the South. After an hour of motoring we hoisted the sails, and continued all the way to Fair Head under full main and poled-out genoa.The wind continued to build, until we were struggling to cope with full sail, 25 Knts of wind, and very large seas from astern. Clive was in his element, one eye on the sails and one eye on the speed log.We did not quite get 10 Knts as we surfed some of the waves, but as our log is reading about half a knot slow, we reckoned that we had really reached about 10.4 Knts a couple of times. Dorothy and Flora stayed below and kept Clive and I well fed and watered. As we rounded Fair Head the wind abated in the shelter of the cliffs and we were able to broad reach towards Ballycastle.The sun also made an appearance. Our tide planning was correct, which is a good thing in that part of the North Channel.The tidal flow there is very complicated, and

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Belfast Marina And The Titanic Experience.

very strong too. After calling him up, and being allocated a berth by the harbour master, he kindly came down to the pontoons to take our lines.That was perhaps just as well as a tricky little manoeuvre was required and we were being blown off.The berthing, including power, was a very reasonable £23 for our 40 ft boat, which was pretty good value. After a walk along the long beach with the dog and a walk back along the side of the golf course, we had a predinner drink in the warm and sunny cockpit.We got changed into smarter gear, the ladies put on some war paint, and after consulting TripAdvisor we headed into the town to check out a few restaurants.The Cellar was chosen, which was an excellent decision – nice atmosphere, huge portions, beautiful food, and nice beer. After dinner, the ladies returned to the boat, while Clive and I nipped into O’Connor’s pub for more beer and some live traditional music.The ages of the musicians ranged from about seven to about 70! The pub was absolutely packed. Unfortunately, when Clive and I left the pub it was pouring with rain. We were tempted to nip back in for another pint, but did the more sensible thing (for a change). Another ruckus was in progress when we got back to the boat.The glasses had done a runner again, this time accompanied by a pair of babydoll pyjamas (you will not be surprised to know that neither Clive nor I were the owners of these). Eventually the glasses were found. After we had turned the whole boat upside down and inside out they had somehow returned themselves to where they should have been in the first place. Miraculous! We had a lazy morning on the Friday. I got some diesel (83p per litre)

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while the crew topped up on provisions. We left Ballycastle at about 11:00 and motored across to Rathlin where we moored up to the recently extended pontoons. A pub lunch at McCuaig’s Bar was followed by a good walk towards the South lighthouse at Rue Point (there are three lighthouses on Rathlin – West, East, and Rue Point). The East lighthouse at Altacarry Head is above the cave where Robert The Bruce took inspiration from the spider. We all sat on a bench by one of the beaches and chatted for a while in the sun, feeling very relaxed and at one with the world. Maybe it was the beer, but I am sure the Rathlin atmosphere had a lot to do with it too.We stopped at the Visitor Centre on the way back, where Rathlin’s fascinating history was told. For such a small island it has a lot of history: gruesome island massacres, St. Columba, Robert The Bruce, smuggling, Marconi’s first commercial wireless signals, Richard Branson’s transatlantic balloon crossing, not to mention The Enchanted Island which appears every seven years! Check it out online or, better still, go and visit! We had a BBQ on the boat, with chicken, burgers, sausages (minus one for the fish) followed by Clive’s signature dish of bananas with rum, maple syrup, and cream. I wasn’t sure if it was bananas with a touch of rum, or rum with a touch of bananas! A real heart attack on a plate, but delicious! We went for a walk after dinner, to aid the digestion process and work off a few of the thousands of calories consumed earlier. Back on board, we listened to some music on the radio before retiring to our bunks.The missing baby-dolls miraculously reappeared, again where they originally were! Either we have a ghost on board or a certain crew member is suffering

from mental aberrations.The other crew members voted unanimously for the latter option. Molly had a good charge up and down the beach next morning, reenacting a doggy version of Chariots Of Fire, in fast-forward mode.This was in preparation for the long trip to Troon. We cast off at 09:00, motored round the South tip of the island, and hoisted the sails.With the wind on the nose, and 60 miles ahead of us, we motorsailed to Sanda.We were then able to bear away and had a great sail most of the rest of the way to Troon. Once again, the day was dry, but a bit cloudy at times, with a decent sailing wind. We arrived at 17:45, berthed (a fee of £35 was a bit of a shock after our Irish fees), and had dinner at the Anchorage, after finding Scott’s to be fully booked. My sizzling chicken fajitas caused much jealousy from the crew, and some close guarding was required to repel raiders. After dinner we said good-bye to Clive and Flora, who drove back to Helensburgh. On the Sunday Dorothy and I sailed back to Tarbert. With the wind on our quarter, we reverted to type, using the genoa only. The wind was very strong, and we sped up past Garroch Head and into Loch Fyne. More sun gave us a chance to top up our tans. As we approached our berth, neighbours popped up to take our warps in the strong “blowing off ” conditions. It reminded us what a friendly place Tarbert is to keep our boat, and that we had really enjoyed our first season there. The weather had been very kind to us all week, giving us good sailing conditions and fast passages. Ireland had been a great experience, and we would happily go back, perhaps next time to explore the North Antrim coast and further West.We had had a great time, with much fun and laughter throughout the week. At times I felt like I was in the middle of a comedy or slapstick TV programme! Having the extra crew also allowed Dorothy and I to go further than we would probably have done on our own.

By Alastair Cameron, Dream Catcher

BRUICHLADDICH sets benchmark for

#LengthofBritain record Phil Sharp helming the Alex Alley owned Class 40 Bruichladdich’ with extreme adventurer Sean Conway in the bow.

ne of Britain’s most successful offshore sailors made history last December when he set the first reference time for sailing from Lands’ End to John O’Groats. Phil Sharp, a 34-year-old sailor from Jersey who won the Route du Rhum in 2006, was joined on the ‘Length of Britain challenge’ by boat owner Alex Alley and adventurer Sean Conway – who is now the first person to have run, cycled, swum and sailed from one end of Britain to the other. The trio managed to sail the length of Britain in just under 83 hours and 53 minutes on their Class 40 yacht, Bruichladdich. Ahead of the record attempt, Sharp said: “We will be setting a benchmark which I hope many will go on to challenge, simply because it is a great, mainly downwind, fast route. “However, this will also be part of the training and conditioning for the Southern Ocean which is where I aim to be at Christmas next year during the Vendée Globe.” As the trio sailed past the boats sponsor, Bruichladdich Distillery on the Isle of Islay, the ‘Laddies’ inside were happy to raise a glass to the new record. Distillery spokesperson Carl Reavey, said: “Because a number of us are keen sailors at Bruichladdich we recognised that to attempt the ‘LE-JOG’ route in December was going to be very

uncomfortable at best – and conditions could have become very difficult.Very few yachtsmen would try it – and certainly not in a boat that is as devoid of creature comforts as the Class 40. “It is also great that Phil and his crew always knew that they were setting a benchmark and inviting others to follow them.” One sailor who will likely be attempting to break the record is Sharp himself, who will take on the route again for further training ahead of the Vendée Globe – known as ‘The Everest’ of sailing. Their team ‘Phil Sharp Racing’, aim to be both the first British crew to win the Vendée Globe and the first boat to circumnavigate the globe non-stop, with zero emissions. This ambitious goal is one of the main reasons behind Bruichladdich getting behind the project. “The decision to help was entirely intuitive because we had not worked with Phil or Sean or Alex before,” said Reavey. He added: “However, the idea of the new record, the fact that they were attempting it in December, the concept of the Vendée Globe as the ultimate goal, the innovative aspects of zero emissions technology – it all fits the Bruichladdich ethos of challenging convention.We are very proud of our image as ‘The Progressive Hebridean Distillery’ and could not resist.”

Speaking to Bruichladdich after the new reference time was set, Sharp detailed his plans ahead of the arduous race: “As you know the LE-JOG record is the beginning of an exciting couple of years.We have now officially kicked off our training programme for the 2016/17 Vendée Globe and aim very soon to purchase an IMOCA 60 race boat for the Challenge. “This will be fitted out with zero emission technologies together with an intensive training programme ahead of our first big race of the season, The Transat. This is the most gruelling of Atlantic races, which is solo, upwind, from Plymouth to New York starting in May. It will most certainly make the LE-JOG record look like a holiday!” Aside from preparing for the Vendée Globe, Sharp is attempting to raise money for brain tumour research in memory of his mother who he lost to brain cancer as a teenager. He is aiming to raise enough to cover the costs of at least one day of research at the Imperial College Healthcare research group, which amounts to £2,740. He has set up a Justgiving page” for donations saying: “Through these challenges I want to communicate the importance of research while at the same time raising funds through races and record attempts.”

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

Photo: James Carnegie Photography.

MOLLY Rounds the Mull Dream Catcher – Bavaria 40 Crew: Molly (Seadog) Cameron and her Mum and Dad Distance logged 230 miles.

knew they were going on holiday again. All the signs were there: the “humungous” blue bag being stuffed with clothes, a mountain of food laid out in the utility room, Mum cooking nice smelling meals and freezing them, Dad downloading weather forecasts onto the laptop, swearing, and shaking his head. The day arrived. I was waiting patiently to be taken to my Auntie Anne’s, where Mum and Dad have left me before when they’ve gone away for a long time on the boat. I quite like it there, but I do miss sitting on Mum’s knee, trying to get between her and the iPad, and I miss biting Dad when we’re having a rough-and-tumble on the floor.

Skipper & First Mate.

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I have tried my best to be good when I have been on the boat for weekends. It is not my fault that I get wet when it is raining, and forget to shake myself dry until I am down in the cabin. It is not my fault that when I run on the beach a ton of sand gets into my coat and deposits itself on the boat for days afterwards. It’s not my fault that Dad has to row me ashore for the toilet (I can not pump the boat toilet because I do not have opposable thumbs). It is not my fault that I scratch the teak cockpit floor when Dad makes the boat lean over at ridiculous angles. And anyway, it isn’t real teak any more. We drove off in the car, and after a while I realised they were either taking me with them or had forgotten I was

there! The square foot in the boot, which they had left for me to squeeze into, was a bit small, and things kept falling on top of me, but I kept quiet just in case. After about an hour we stopped at my Auntie Flora’s house.They had been away at Port Bannatyne for the weekend. I like Port Bannatyne because I can chase birds along the beach, and there are usually campers in the field whose tents I can run into. Mum and Dad, Auntie Flora and Uncle Clive had fish and chips. All I got was a few treats, in case I was sick on the holiday bags in the boot beside me. It was quite late when we got to Tarbert, and it was raining. Mum ran down to the boat with me, while Dad

was left to wheelbarrow the bags down to the boat in several trips. Mum and I were quite dry, but Dad wasn’t. He didn’t look very happy. Mum gave me my tea, after which Dad took me out for a walk through the woods. It was muddy and I got quite dirty, and Dad got bitten by midges. I think midges are like the ticks I get in the bracken, but Mum doesn’t poke around Dad’s hair looking for them and yanking them out, like she does with me. It was dry and sunny next morning, which was nice. I did not get so muddy on my walk this time, but I did run into the sea for a swim with the seagulls. I like swimming, but I have not caught any of the seagulls yet. Back on the boat I shook myself dry, which soaked Mum and Dad. Dad got the blame for this but didn’t seem too bothered. I think he was happy to be on holiday. We cast off and headed out of the harbour. Dad untied the fenders and chucked them in the cockpit. I think he hit me on the head with every single one. Mum told him off, but I think he was getting me back for the swimming thing! I heard him say something like “Well, if she stands in the way what does she expect”!. He seemed to forget I was tied on and could not get out of the way. It was my kind of sailing, very dog-friendly. A gentle breeze, warm and sunny, and Mum sneaking me bits of her fruitcake when Dad was not watching. He is mean and does not approve of titbits. He is good fun though. The wind died and Dad started the engine. It is noisy and a bit smelly sometimes, and it makes me really sleepy. I climbed up on Mum’s knee, checked her pockets for treats, and dropped off (to sleep). As usual, Mum and Dad couldn’t decide where to go. After a long discussion, they picked up a mooring at Carradale. Dad was not very pleased, because it was now a strong Northerly wind and the boat was bouncing up and down a lot. He went on deck to pump up the dinghy. I like the dinghy because it is quite exciting going ashore to new places. Dad pumped up one side, then started on the other side. Soon after, he seemed to be chasing the footpump across the deck.The footpump escaped though, and jumped

Dorlainn Bay, Gigha.

overboard.Then Dad started flailing about in the sea with the boathook, trying to catch the footpump. I thought Dad had gone mad, but it turned out that the footpump hose had popped off and the pump had fallen overboard after bouncing down the side deck. Now Dad really was not pleased! He stared at the pump as it floated slowly away, tantalisingly just out of reach. He was mumbling unintelligibly to himself now. I thought he was going to jump in after the pump, like I would have, but he did not. Dad deflated the half-dinghy, cast off the mooring, and we headed off towards Campbeltown. Suddenly there was a really loud screaming noise. Dad turned the engine off immediately and rolled out the genoa (I am learning these nautical words). Mum steered while Dad and I went below to investigate. I tried to help him find the problem but for some reason he didn’t seem to want me poking my nose in (literally). Dad pushed me out of the engine compartment but I kept pushing my way back in, squeezing between his legs. Dad and I diagnosed the problem quickly – it seemed that the engine bay was full of oil, and the engine was not. Luckily, Dad is one of these people who does not travel light (Mum calls him a hoarder). He had lots of spare oil on board, and was able to fill the engine back up so that we could motor into the marina. Mum and I had a good sail from Carradale, but Dad spent it with his head in the engine compartment. He announced that the problem was the oil filter seal. For some inexplicable reason he did not have a spare oil filter on board. He had six fuel filters (three of each type), and three spare impellers, but no oil filter. Mum quizzed him as

to why this was, but Dad ignored her. I think he realised himself that he hadn’t hoarded enough oil filters and he didn’t need reminding of that. Campbeltown was nice. Mum and Dad took me for a walk along the beach and I chased some birds for a while. Mum and Dad thought this was good exercise for me, so I then ran up to chase some swans.This turned out not to be such a good idea, as they didn’t fly away, but hissed and spat angrily at me. Rude birds! Dad met his second cousin, Robert Watt from Ballachulish, who he had not seen for a long time. He had been down to Ireland on his boat Solan with a friend called Lachie.They were both really nice, and stroked me for a long time. Lachie told me that he had once had one of my ancestors. Then Mum and Dad had a really smelly Indian takeaway and stuffed themselves rotten (it certainly smelled rotten later). Dad had beer to wash it down too. It serves them right that they both had terrible indigestion through the night and had to eat those white treats called Rennies.Why can’t they just eat Pedigree Complete like me? The next morning, Dad took me along to the park for a walk. He did not let me off the lead until we got to the beach. I got him back by tangling myself up round his legs when he was talking to someone and he nearly fell over. He was not pleased.When we got back Dad dried me off (I had been swimming with the birds again) and we went to the shops. He came back with a new dinghy pump and lots of oil to hoard. Dad lifted the dinghy onto the pontoon and started pumping it up with the new pump. It was really a hand pump for an airbed, but that was all

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 63

The Interloper.

he could get. He was contorting himself, holding the hose into the valve with one hand, wedging the pump between his knees, and pumping with the other hand.The air didn’t seem to be going into the dinghy very quickly. I poked my nose into the valve to see if I could find out what was wrong.This knocked the hose out and Dad told me in a loud voice that I wasn’t helping. I got bored and started jumping in and out of the dinghy, running between Dad’s legs, and thumping my tail against everything in sight. I knocked the hose out again.This was too much for Dad and he gave up pumping, just sitting dejectedly in the deflated dinghy. Eventually Mum came to ask how he was getting on. Dad told her it was going to take all day to pump it up, and that he was making a spectacle of himself. Mum took sympathy on him, tied me up in the cockpit to stop me helping, and went to help Dad instead. “Just push it in as hard as you can”, Dad said.This seemed to help, despite Mum getting a sore arm. Dad wasn’t very sympathetic, which Mum didn’t like. She said her arms were about to fall off! The dinghy was eventually pumped up and tied up on the stern. We left Campbeltown in the afternoon to go round something called “The Mull”. I’d heard lots of people talking about it but had never seen it. We sailed along slowly for a while in a gentle breeze. I lay in the cockpit and tried to steal fruit cake when Mum wasn’t looking.The wind gradually died and Dad put the engine on.When the

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wind got up again Dad said it was on his nose, which seemed a funny thing to say. It stayed on his nose for a long time and he got a bit annoyed. Mum didn’t believe him when he told her it was still on his nose when we passed the lighthouse. We did manage to sail for a while as we went North to Ardminish Bay on Gigha. It is much more peaceful with the engine off and we all enjoyed it. Mum made dinner on the way, as we were going to be arriving quite late. It was still really sunny when we arrived and Dad’s face was getting quite red. He said it was on fire, but I didn’t see any flames. Mum and Dad took me ashore in the dinghy and we walked down the road and then down to a little beach. Mum and Dad didn’t see the man in his tent but I did. I decided to be friendly and say hello. He didn’t invite me into this tent, but I went in to have a look anyway. I think I left sand in his sleeping bag, but I didn’t tell him. After going back to an apologetic Mum and Dad we went for a walk up to Achamore Gardens. Rowing back out to the boat, Mum said we should have used the outboard. Dad muttered something quietly, which sounded like “Mum always knows best”.That was nice of him. Next morning Mum and Dad took me ashore again.The dinghy had gone a bit squidgy and I felt as if I was sitting on a floating jelly.We went for a walk and I got stuck in a bog full of brambles for a while. I was a bit worried, because I heard Dad tell Mum he’d strangle me

if he had to come into the bog to get me. I did manage to get out, covered in mud and bits of bush. Dad gave me one of his piercing stares and put me back on the lead. I rewarded him with a good muddy shake. I like to keep Mum and Dad on their toes. We sailed round to another bay on Gigha. It wasn’t far, and Dad let me steer on his knee. I thought I was really good at it, but Dad had tricked me by using the autopilot. He is a sneak and often plays tricks on me.We anchored in the sandy bay, and went ashore again. This beach was fantastic. I ran and ran and ran, chasing the birds into the water and running in and out of the sand dunes. Mum enjoyed watching me having such fun. Dad said I was a lunatic and needed psychiatric help. Dad put up his new boom tent. He was “footering” with bungee cords and clips for ages before he got them the right length. I did my best to help by holding the clips in my mouth. Sometimes Dad didn’t know I had them and thought they were lost, which was a good game. I like to get him back for his tricks by playing tricks on him too. Down in the cabin Mum suddenly shouted out. She had found one of my ticks crawling on her leg. It had bitten her but she had got it out before it sunk its teeth in too hard. She started taking her clothes off to see if she had any more. Dad didn’t seem too bothered, but Mum was talking about probably having ticks in the bed, ticks all over the cabin, and getting Lyme disease, which was fatal. She made Dad shake the seat covers and bedding outside. She didn’t over-react at all, like Dad said. Dad played a trick on Mum later, touching her bare leg when she wasn’t looking. Mum thought it was another tick and jumped out of her skin. She told Dad he was not funny. Mum and Dad kept changing their mind about where to go. Mum said the holiday was doomed from the start, and now the weather forecast was not good.There was a storm forecast and Dad wanted to go somewhere sheltered. They decided to go to Crinan and decide in the morning where to go after that. It was raining a lot of the way there. Mum and I stayed dry and warm in the cabin, leaving Dad to get wet in the cockpit.We gave him tea and cake

to try to keep him happy but I don’t think it worked. I’ve been to Crinan before and like it there.We picked up a mooring and went ashore for a walk along the canal. The dinghy was even squidgier now, and Mum said we needed a new one. Dad repeated his “Mum knows best” comment but Mum didn’t hear it again. I don’t know why he always says that so quietly. The pontoon at Crinan is horrible. It is like a giant floating jigsaw, and is really wobbly.The metal ramp up to the path was really steep and slippy with the rain. I didn’t want to go up but Mum made me. Mum slipped on the ramp too, and gave a shout that sounded like “Woof ”. Maybe she’s learning my language. On the way back from the walk I jumped in the canal while trying to catch a butterfly, and got soaked again. Dad sighed resignedly. Mum and Dad pumped up the dinghy again before we rowed back to the boat. Dad kept punching me in the face with the oar and Mum told him off. He said I should know where to sit by now which I didn’t think was very nice. The storm passed overnight, and it was decision or indecision time again.With the poor weather forecast, dodgy oil seal, leaking dinghy, and useless pump, Mum and Dad decided to cut the holiday down to one week instead of two, hoping for a better week another time. So we set off again, heading for Gigha, or was it Craighouse, or Port Ellen, or Muriel’s Bay ( Mum had apparently dreamt she strangled a friend (called Muriel) with an eel when they were children!).

Paps sunset.

Gigha it was, Dorlainn Bay again. The sun came out and it was a beautiful evening. I had another headlong gallop along the beach, and we were joined by a dog from the local farm. He only had little legs, but he could still run fast. He couldn’t keep up with me, though, which made him bark in frustration. Dad appeased him by giving some of my treats. He wouldn’t leave Dad alone after that, even paddling out, trying to follow us out to the boat. Back on the boat I lay on Dad’s knee while I dried off, making his trousers soaking wet. After tea, Mum spoke to my Auntie Flora for hours while Dad took photos of the sunset in the dinghy, which he had started calling Hissing Sid. Mum asked Dad how many thousand photos of the boat he had now. Dad seemed not to hear her and went on taking more. The wind was on Dad’s nose again the next morning. Dad took me ashore for a walk. He had trouble rowing against the wind, partly because the dinghy was a bit squidgy again (Mum was still in bed, so couldn’t help with the pump). I tried to roll in some really nice smelling bird-sick but Dad was a spoilsport and shouted quite loudly at me. I kept trying to sneak back to it, but Dad knew what I was up to. He’s not as stupid as he looks. Rowing back out to the boat was easier, with the strong wind behind us. Dad said something about having to grab the boat or we’d end up in Crinan again. Dad tied Hissing Sid up on the stern, for going round the Mull again, and we set off.The wind was on Dad’s nose again all the way from Gigha to

the Mull, but the sun was out now. Dad’s face was going red again and he plastered it with what looked like salad cream. Dad was really pleased because he said we had timed it perfectly. Mum and Dad were expecting big waves because the wind was from the SouthEast and the tide was going South-East. They had their life-jackets on and Dad was clipped on. I lay in my bed in the companionway, waiting for the waves, but they never came. It was all an anticlimax. Mum and Dad put the sails up as we headed North again to Campbeltown. This helped to stop the boat bouncing about in the big waves, which had finally arrived. At Campbeltown I jumped off the boat before I was meant to, and caused a bit of a stir while Mum was tying the boat up. I’m sure I could have helped by taking one of the ropes ashore for her. Flora and Clive arrived a while later. They came over for tea and drinks, and Dad showed off his boom-tent. Mum and Dad had dinner with them on their boat. I was left on my own, which I thought wasn’t very nice. I’m sure I would have behaved impeccably. Next day we had the best sail of the holiday, one tack all the way back to Tarbert.The sun was out all the way and it was really warm too.When we got there, the marina was really busy, as it was the Tarbert Seafood Festival that weekend. It was all a bit fishy. Boats were trying to find a berth, like drivers in a supermarket car park. It’s just as well we have our own berth. Next morning it was really wet and windy, as forecast. Dad took me for a walk in the woods, and then along to see the festival, while Mum packed up to go home. It was a shame it was a bit of a washout for the festival. Dad was hoping to buy some seafood but a lot of the stalls weren’t open yet.We packed up and drove home to Auchengray, where the weather was dry and sunny! To top off the bad luck of the holiday, the farmer had put sheep in my field round our house.What a cheek. Mum and Dad will have to take me somewhere else for my walks. Still, at least it won’t be in Hissing Sid.

By Molly (Seadog) Cameron

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 65

PINOCCHIO’S Summer Cruises Pinocchio – Dufour 44 Skipper: Peter Fairley First Mate: Dinkie Fairley David and Helen Holden (18 June – 21 June), Colin Massey (22 June – 28 June and 18 August – 22 August), Alex Booth and Jennifer Guinness (22 June – 28 June), Katie Christie (29 June – 17 July and 18 August – 22 August), Judy Syme (29 June – 4 July), Gordon and Norah Adams (13 July – 17 July), Peach Family (31 July – 8 August), Andrew Fairley (16 August – 19 August)

Thursday 18 June The weather was cold and wet a few days before we were due to leave Rhu Marina when we discovered that the heater was not working, so with one thing and another our departure was delayed to Thursday 18 June. We finally cast off at 16:05. It was a miserable day raining and there was a fresh wind, so the decision was taken not to go round the Mull but to head for the canal. David and Helen Holden had agreed to sail with us to Oban. We dropped anchor at Black Farland Bay at 19:35. 22.98 miles.

Friday 19 June Anchor up at 10:00 and sails up. It was very cold and wet. The wind was variable and we had a nice beat up to Stonefield and then it was engine on as the wind disappeared. We went into the sea lock at 14:00. We got above Lock 7 by 16:50 and were stopped for the night. 23 miles. The next morning we are up and away for 09:00 but we then had a long wait as there seemed to be a further problem with the canal water levels. We reached above the basin at noon to discover that it was lunch hour and we would have to wait to get further. Dinkie tested out the new showers, which were okay, but reported back that there were no mirrors or a hairdryer. We failed to fill up with water as our hose had a metric end and the canal was imperial. We finally locked out of the canal at 13:30 after what must be the slowest and least satisfactory passage through going back to 1946!

66 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Peter & Dinkie, Tinker’s Hole, mid July.

We dropped anchor at 16:50 at Barnacarry Bay. 23 miles.

Sunday 21 June Mid summer and it was still very cold and wet. Anchor up at 12:10. Soon after leaving the engine stopped and we were unable to get it started. David and Helen did a good job picking up the mooring off the Oban Sailing Club under jib. 4.6 miles. Dave and Peter tried very hard to sort the engine problem, a fuel blockage, but they had no luck. Helen was able to give us the name of a person to contact on Monday. Sadly Dave and Helen left on the 17:00 train for Helensburgh, it was great to have them on board.

Monday 22 June Through Helen’s contact we spoke to Ewan Campbell, an engineer who agreed to come to the boat at 11:00. The super yacht Huckleberry‘s crew were very busy loading boxes into their rib and it turned out that they had an agent in Oban, who we later discovered was Ian MacAlister. On the way to the station to meet Colin, Dinkie met Ian and discovered that his mother was coming to Oban on the same train. I told Ian that after meeting Colin I was going to Tesco to shop and he kindly offered to collect me after my shopping and take me back to the boat which was a real help. Meantime the engineer had

sorted out the fuel problem and got the engine working. With all the shopping done, Ian came on board for a coffee. David and Lesley Scott had invited us to their house for a drink, which was great and then Lesley kindly drove me along to the station to meet Alex and Jennifer off the 18:40 train. Once we were all on board we went out to a mooring and had drinks and a meal.

Tuesday 23 June We left Oban at 10:30 and headed North. It was a lovely sunny day but the forecast ahead was awful. Anchor down 16:50 Port Mor, Muck. 39.72 miles.

Wednesday 24 June Dinkie’s birthday. We had a lovely walk ashore with coffee and cakes in the Muck Café. A late lunch and we finally left at 17:20. By 17:30 we had yet another problem with the engine. Luckily Peter, Colin and Alex were able to fix it and we were soon underway again and we dropped anchor in Loch Scavaig. 23.32 miles. Neither Colin or Alex had been there before and it was very spectacular with huge waterfalls due to the rain. Peter produced a birthday cake.

Thursday 25 June Peter, Colin and Dinkie went ashore and walked to Loch Coruisk and then it was back on board for coffee. Anchor up at 12:45 and as there was no wind we motored all the way to Isle Oronsay. Anchor down at 17:00. 23.7 miles. Annoyingly the anchor windless blew a fuse! Luckily it was soon sorted.

toilet and shower block are still not finished, however, the marina is great! Alex and Jennifer and Colin treated us to a delicious meal ashore.

Sunday 28 June We waved goodbye to Colin, Alex and Jennifer who left by train for Glasgow. It was a lovely sunny day so we enjoyed a “make and mend day”. We were even able to take the washing to the Fisherman’s Mission and leave it for collection later. Dinkie’s new trolley was a huge success and made it so easy to get the shopping back to the boat. Peter decided that we would return to the same restaurant for a meal as it had been so good the night before. We were not disappointed.

Monday 29 June Katie and Judy arrived by train at 17:43. Neil and Eileen came over from Arisaig for a drink. It was fun to catch up. It was windy and wet in the night and we were up at 04:30 to secure the dinghy which had blown off the foredeck.

Tuesday 30 June There were still a few things to be done before we left the marina at 14:00. Peter has bought a pair of thick woolly gloves so surely the weather will improve! There was a strong wind from the South East so we sailed under jib only. We dropped anchor at 18:00 off Broadford, Skye. 24.29 miles.

Wednesday 1 July We woke to a beautiful sunny day and the girls had breakfast in the cockpit, some in their pyjamas! Anchor up at 10:54 and we arrived in Acarseid Mhor, Rona at 14:30. We had a marvelous walk ashore up to the trig point. There were 14 yachts in the anchorage. Katie bought the last of the venison burgers – they were delicious.

Thursday 2 July It was a grey and miserable day; thank goodness we had been ashore for our walk the day before. A few jobs were done and it was anchor up at 11:15 with only two boats left in the anchorage. We motor sailed most of the way and with a poor forecast we finally anchored in Loch Greshornish, Loch Snizort, Skye at 17:05. A new anchorage. 39.16 miles.

Friday 3 July It was a sunny morning but not warm. Judy decided that she would need to be home by Sunday so we headed for Loch Dunvegan as we knew there was a bus from there to Portree and then to Glasgow. Anchor down at 15:45. 26.62 miles. It was a beautiful evening so it was drinks in the cockpit. Usually red sky at night means good weather however not in this case.

Saturday 4 July Strong wind and rain in the night but we managed to get Judy ashore

Dinner out at the Western Isles Hotel, Tobermory.

Friday 26 June It was very wet so there was not much to see. Anchor up at 10:45 and we picked up a mooring off Plockton at 13:45. 19.13 miles. Colin and I went ashore and enjoyed a peaceful seat on Jane Hay’s lovely memorial bench. It was a sunny evening so we had drinks in the cockpit while watching the evening racing.

Saturday 27 June We were away by 11:00 and we had a great sail to Mallaig and tied up in the marina at 17:20. 38.63 miles. The

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 67

at 07:15 in time for her bus. Back on board the skipper was in no rush to get up until he realised it was French toast for breakfast. Not a nice day with a strong South Easterly wind and rain showers and we hoped to get ashore later. The skipper and Katie managed to mend the heater much to Dinkie’s relief, but we did not manage ashore as it was too windy. It was very cold and there was another poor forecast.

Grandchildren, Muck.

Sunday 5 July Anchor up at 10:50 and we motored out to the point before putting the sails up.Very heavy showers and then little wind so it was engine on. Anchor down 15:00 Bagh a Bhiorain, Loch Eport, 23.33 miles. There was one boat in the anchorage and the owner was playing his penny whistle and we enjoyed watching the antics of the many seals in the sunshine. Banana fritters for supper! Frank and Anne were in touch and had agreed to meet us in Loch Boisdale. We woke to a heavy mist so there was no hurry to leave. Really funny weather.

Monday 6 July We had a nice sail for an hour or so until Ushenish, sometimes in sunshine. There were lots of boats and fishing floats around. At 15:30 we arrived at Loch Boisdale Marina, where there is a fantastic new marina with a great set up. 27.74 miles. Colin had phoned ahead so they were expecting us, and the marina manager Colin Currie was very helpful. There is an amazing breakwater, excellent showers and eventually there will be washing machines. It was very busy as there was yet another poor forecast! Mike Johnston came on board for a drink before he walked to the hotel for a meal.

Tuesday 7 July There was a huge amount of rain in the night and we woke to find a lot of it had come down the mast; what a bother! Luckily it was a better day and we were able to get the cushions dry in the sunshine while the skipper and Katie attended to the seal at the mast base. Dinkie took the local bus to the nearby village to do the shopping. By the time Frank and

68 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Anne arrived off the 18:50 ferry we were in good order with the washing all done and we had all enjoyed the great showers at the marina.

Wednesday 8 July Rather a noisy night with the wind still blowing so in the morning some walked and some thumbed a lift to the Pink Café for coffee and cake; this is a great café and has internet connection. We finally left the marina at 14:00 under jib only and arrived Eriskay at 15:40. 9.65 miles. It was quite tricky getting in as there was a large yacht making her way out. Mike Johnston came in just after us and on his way ashore told us that he was here for the music recital at 20:00 in the village hall followed by a ceilidh – would we like to join him – but there were no takers on Pinocchio. It was a cold evening but we enjoyed drinks in the cockpit.

Thursday 9 July Katie’s birthday with birthday bubbles to start the day. Anchor up at 10:30, which proved very awkward as it had got caught round a cable, but luckily Frank managed to disentangle it from the anchor. As the forecast was so poor we decided not to go South but to cross the Minch. To our surprise there was very little wind so it was a long slow motor. We saw seals, fulmars, guillemots, gannets, porpoises, dolphins, shearwaters but only a few

razorbills. Anchor down 18:05 in the gut in Oronsay Loch Sunart. 53.25 miles. It was too cold for drinks in the cockpit but we had a birthday dinner and a delicious birthday cake made by Anne followed by party games!

Friday 10 July We were anchored quite close in and Peter and Frank took turns to do anchor watch so there was no rush up in the morning. It was still blowing and we decided to motor over to Tobermory and tied up at the marina. 13:25. 6 miles. The girls were delighted to be there and departed to the nearest pub to watch Wimbledon.

Saturday 11 July It was very wet so there was no rush to go sailing and after soup in the pub the girls watched the Wimbledon Ladies Final. We left the marina at 16:20 and motored to Loch Drumbuie, it was still very wet and the anchor was finally safely down with the chum at 17:50, 5.6 miles. It was a shame that the weather had been so poor since Frank and Anne arrived.

Sunday 12 July There was a lot of rain in the night but Peter’s mast repair held good. There was not much sign of the sun or enthusiasm to get going but finally we left at 11:20 after untwisting the chum! We had a pleasant sail to Salen and were interested to view the mini

marina and excellent facilities ashore. With Frank at the helm we beat back to Tobermory and tied up at 16:30. 24.03 miles.

Monday 13 July Frank and Anne were on the 09:35 bus to Craignure and Gordon and Norah arrived off the 13:40 bus from Craignure. We left the marina at 15:50, the sun was out and it was warm and we had a great sail to Coll. Anchor down 19:00 Arinagour. 19.14 miles

Tuesday 14 July Another cold day and we went ashore for a walk and coffee in the hotel then back for lunch in the cockpit in the sun! Anchor up 15:15 and we anchored off Gunna at 17:25 but after tea we decided it would be an uncomfortable anchorage for the night so we motored back to Loch Breachadha, and the anchor was down at 17:10. 16.58 miles

Wednesday 15 A beautiful sunny warm morning so the girls had breakfast in the cockpit. Anchor up 11:05 and with the sun still out we sailed close to the Dutchmans Cap with Katie giving us all the relevant interesting information about the castles on Lunga. Iona looked lovely in the sunshine and at 15:45 we anchored in Tinker’s Hole. 21.83 miles. It was a beautiful evening and after tea, Gordon, Norah and Dinkie decided to go ashore but it was not a good idea as the bracken

Dunvegan sunset, early July.

was really high and no paths were visible so we headed back to the boat. Peter and Katie had the table up in the cockpit (the first time this cruise!) and Pimms was the order of the day. Later we watched the guys from a Swedish boat anchored ahead climb the rocks to get reception on their mobiles! It was bug bingo for us and Gordon was the winner.

Thursday 16 July We were the last boat to leave at 10:00 and with the wind on the nose we motored to Carsaig Bay, Mull and dropped anchor at 12:30 for lunch in the cockpit. Another new anchorage. Anchor up at 14:10 with the wind still dead ahead so it was sails up at the South end of Kerrera. We had a great sail with Gordon at the helm and we were at Dunstaffnage Marina in no time. By 17:30 we were safely tied up. 39.76 miles. Strong winds are forecast.

Friday 17 July Norah took the bus to Oban to collect her car and then Gordon and Norah kindly gave Katie a lift home. Peter and I took time to tidy the boat as the Peach family were due to arrive on Friday 31 July to cruise in company with our daughter Elizabeth and family on Tangaroa. It was very wet and we went briefly to the barbeque organised by the marina and then enjoyed drinks on board Karelia of Clyde with Michael and Patricia. Later that evening the marina staff came round to secure our lines and

to check we were all right as it was blowing really hard.

Saturday 18 July It was still raining so we were not sorry to leave and we took a taxi to Oban and the train to Helensburgh.

31 July – 8 August On 31 July the Peach family collected Jonathan from his sailing week at Tighnabruaich and made their way to Dunstaffnage. Peter and Dinkie arrived the following day. We had a great week cruising in company with the Balmforth family and visited Loch Aline Marina and celebrated Jonathan’s 12th birthday. Loch Drumbuie where we spent two nights due to the poor weather but the children enjoyed exploring ashore, rowing Puddleduck and swimming! Tobermory was a great hit with all the grandchildren with shops! In the evening we all enjoyed a delicious meal in the Western Isles Hotel; it has such an amazing view of the anchorage. Rounding Ardnamurchan was a first for Dave and of course Jonathan, Fraser and Robert. On the way to Muck we passed close to a sunfish making its way slowly North. We anchored in Gallanach Bay, Muck where once again we spent two nights and we were lucky to be there for a very special ceilidh in the village hall. It started at 18:00 with a delicious buffet and we were all invited. After the buffet there was football for some and Fraser was awarded the “man of the match”. Great music and Scottish dancing and then a long walk home in the dark to Gallanach Bay, but what a great party. Off Ardnamurchan we saw dolphins including a pod of Risso dolphins which were surprisingly big and battle scarred. We headed for Loch Aline Marina which the children enjoy, and Ross caught a fish which was very exciting. We had drinks in the cockpit and toasted the week with champagne provided by Des and Elizabeth. The children all had fun being together and one of the highlights of the week was the evening quizzes organised by them. The next day the Balmforths made their way to the canal and we returned to Dunstaffnage.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 69

16 August – 23 August Andrew enjoyed three lovely sunny warm days on Pinocchio. We left Dunstaffnage and anchored in Loch Aline before making for Port Mor, Muck the following day. It was many years since Andrew had been to Muck and we all enjoyed a walk ashore. Then it was anchor up and away to Loch Moidart for the night and we anchored close to Castle Tioram, a beautiful anchorage. The next morning we enjoyed a quick visit ashore to the castle as with our 2.5 metre draft the entrance to Loch Moidart is not to be attempted if the tide is going out! We stopped in Tobermory for fuel, water, shopping and to report the sighting of the sunfish which we had seen the previous week. We were interested to hear that there had been other sightings reported. We were on our way back to Loch Aline for the night as we needed to be in Dunstaffnage by lunch time on the Wednesday as Andrew was due to fly South later that day. Colin and Katie were on the dock to meet us and came on board for lunch. After three lovely days we were in for yet another blow with rain so we headed for Puilladobhrain. The forecast was very poor with strong winds so we took the decision that we would be best to go through the canal. We anchored off Crinan and entered the canal the following day.Very wet to start with and then the sun came out. It was slow going and we tied up at Lock 4 for the night. We were sitting relaxing in the cockpit when who should appear but Will and Margaret Rudd. The last time we saw them was in 2004 when they were about to start on their world trip. Their boat is now in Turkey but they have bought a house outside Lochgilphead Out of the canal by 10:55 and despite there being no wind we hoisted sail at Ardlamont and drifted up to Loch Ridden. Another strong wind forecast so we decided we would be better anchored in Wreck Bay. Colin and Katie did a marvelous job cleaning the waterline. It was an unbelievably blowy night so we took it in turns to anchor watch. Luckily we did not drag. On the Sunday there was a very strange strong hot Easterly wind against us so we motored all the way to Rhu. In spite of the poor weather we had wonderful cruises visiting many of our favourite anchorages and some new ones. Indeed, 2015 is down as one of the best seasons we have had sailing on the West Coast of Scotland.

By Peter & Dinkie Fairley, Pinocchio

70 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

List of Anchorages and Mileage Rhu to Black Farland Bay

22.98 miles

Black Farland Bay to the canal

23.00 miles

Crinan Canal to Barnacarry Bay

23.00 miles

Barnacarry Bay to Oban

4.06 miles

Oban to Port Mor, Muck

39.72 miles

Port Mor to Isle Oronsay, Skye

23.07 miles

Isle Oronsay to Plockton

19.13 miles

Plockton to Mallaig Marina

38.63 miles

Mallaig to Broadford, Skye

24.29 miles

Broadford to Acarseid Mhor, South Rona

23.62 miles

South Rona to Loch Snizort

39.16 miles

Loch Snizort to Loch Dunvegan

26.62 miles

Dunvegan to Loch Eport

23.33 miles

Loch Eport to Loch Boisdale Marina

27.74 miles

Loch Boisdale to Eriskay

9.65 miles

Eriskay to Oronsay, Loch Sunart

53.25 miles

Loch Sunart to Tobermory

6.00 miles

Tobermory to Loch Drumbuie

5.06 miles

Loch Drumbuie via Salen to Tobermory

24.03 miles

Tobermory to Arinagour, Coll

19.14 miles

Arinagour, Coll to Loch Breachadh, Coll

16.58 miles

Loch Breachadha to Tinker’s Hole

21.83 miles

Tinker’s Hole to Dunstaffnage Marina

39.76 miles

TOTAL:

553.65 miles

Dunstaffnage to Loch Aline

13.85 miles

Loch Aline to Loch Drumbuie

15.40

Loch Drumbuie to Tobermory

5.77

Tobermory to Gallanach Bay, Muck

21.20

Gallanach Bay to Loch Aline

35.44

Loch Aline to Dunstaffnage Marina

15.47

Total

107.13

Dunstaffnage Marine to Loch Aline

15.00

Loch Aline to Loch Moidart, Castle Tioram, via Port Mor, Muck

42.89

Loch Moidart to Loch Aline via Tobermory

39.02

Loch Aline to Puilladobhrain via Dunstaffnage

28.73

Puilladobhrain to Crinan

20.14

Crinan Canal to Wreck Bay

33.70

Wreck Bay to Rhu Marina

22.57

Total

202.05

Mileage from Rhu to Rhu –

862.83 miles

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SCOTTISH SERIES 27 - 30 MAY 2016

CRUISE – under your own steam or in company to musters and social events. Explore The Clyde and West Coast through our cruising and race programme. Use our famous Sailing Directions - available to members at a discount. RACE – Scottish Series and all the other Club events from the Opening Muster, offshore racing, special events, GSS Regatta to Closing Muster. Something for everyone. TRAIN – learn at our own RYA Approved Training Centre – Bardowie Loch near Glasgow. Evening lessons and summer school. 60 monohulls, three Access and Challenger dinghies mean that all ages and abilities can sail. Dinghy racing here too.

BE PART OF SCOTLAND’S LARGEST REGATTA! Scottish Series is sail racing for All

• Clyde Challenger passage races and cruise in company from Largs for white sail, family and cruiser classes on Friday, and then Round Inchmarnock on Sunday. Racing at your level for four days, or just the passage races if preferred. Fancy trying IRC – get a single event rating • Saturday is big party night. • Plenty to do on days off. • Stunning scenery, friendship and high activity.

Hardened racers, Enthusiastic amateurs, Families, even the social sailor – something for everyone at your chosen pace. • The weekend in Tarbert Loch Fyne is possibly the best way to spend the May Bank Holiday • Four fantastic days on Scotland’s beautiful West coast

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SOCIALISE – at cruising musters, at the dance, winter talks, at race events or simply meet fellow members in local harbours. We have a year round social programme.

DUE FOR 2016

(TO JOIN THE OTHER CCC SAILING DIRECTIONS): ORKNEY AND SHETLAND ISLANDS INCLUDING NORTH & NORTHEAST SCOTLAND

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FASTNET RACE Lemminkainen – NED 537

he Fastnet Race is not something you enter on a Sunday afternoon.You grow into it and eventually it is on the to do list. And if the timing is okay and the crew fits there is suddenly no reason anymore not to enter. So it was for the Lemminkainen. And, also being an RORC member, not having sailed a Fastnet before is another thing.

The Fastnet Race.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 73

Lemminkainen with her crew.

The Fastnet Rock.

So over a year ago we decided to give it a go. Entry opened on 6 January at noon. Entering is a thing these days; within 24 minutes more than 400 entries were received with room for only 300 starters. As an RORC member there is an advantage to non-members. But on a waiting list it could take to June before knowing for sure whether you could start or not. With a fleet of Transatlantic Racers also participating a final total of 375 boats proposed to start the race. Preparation is required. For the boat itself, to comply to the Cat 2 demands quite some work and investment. If we had the equipment aboard already there was a recertification or update required. Also the crew needed to prepare. Some of them required the OPST course and a First Aid certificate and a 300 nm race with a minimum of two nights at sea for 60% of the crew 12 months prior to the Fastnet. For the Dutch it means traditionally racing the Lighthouse Race and the North Sea Race in May. Basically up and down to Harwich from Scheveningen. Clever sailing brought us victory in our class for the Lighthouse Race and a fifth for the North Sea Race. As it was a test to us we were happily

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surprised by the good results. Sorting out the last details you notice that such preparation is very useful. After planning (read minimising) family holidays there is always the hope that work will not interfere. Logistically there is a lot to arrange. Start (Cowes) and finish (Plymouth) at different locations, let alone delivering the boat up and down (already 900 nm). A shore crew with spacious car comes in very handy. Also very useful indeed is a professional cook in the family. For the crew, freeze-dried food was an option, so we carefully selected a menu. For five days we cooked snacks and prepared evening meals, vacuum packed and deep-frozen in plastic bags, which could be used during a week. We ended up having an excellent meal every day by just dipping the bags in hot water for 15 min. No dirty pots and pans or spending a long time in the galley – a super solution. Morale was very high, especially as the weather allowed us to eat it all. Lemminkainen was delivered to Cowes a week before the start on Sunday 16 August. The crew arrived on the Friday before. The last day of Cowes Week was entered for some practice. We ended up third in our Class, IRC 5. As the course was

pretty short it was good practice for our rusty short course boat handling. We need to do the Cowes Week as a whole again someday. The remainder of the day was used to take stuff on and off from the boat and sort the boat out. A last safety inspection of the boat by the RORC committee passed well. Bow sticker and flags were shown as well as the team outfits. We were ready. Cowes is one big party during this time. On shore there is a lot to do. In the air, flying shows and fireworks. The best is all the boats around; history meets the most modern racers, a delight to watch. All weather forecasts confirmed a light weather race. Reason enough for a glass of wine during the PreFastnet Dinner in the new RORC Clubhouse. And indeed there was no wind on the Sunday morning of the start. Starting procedure begins with passing a committee vessel with hoisted storm jib and trysail while showing the sail number on the lifelines. The final check before actually starting the race. A last weather update from our famous Dutch weather guru and to be sure, also from Predict Wind. They both confirmed light weather for the first part of the race. We had the race divided in 10 stages. For each stage, from each critical point to the next, we gathered as much tidal do’s and don’ts as we could find. Focusing on the race this way worked well. The start involved seven starting groups with a 10 minutes sequence

to be started at high tide flushing out Westwards towards the Needles. With no wind at all it was a bit tricky. A very professional committee decisively started all groups. A lot of drifting with an occasional fender required. There was only one tactic: not to go too early! Easier said than done with a strong tide and no wind. In the midst of all the drifting boats we were not drifting at all that badly, and gradually moved forwards. When the wind started to fill in slowly we worked the Solent tides well (with the booklet Winning Tides in our hands) towards the Needles Channel. Only one tack a bit too far, which cost us part of the gains made. Converging boats near the Channel were impressive. Being passed by the high-tech 100 ft Comanche and 88ft Rambler 88 was not to our advantage but was ultimately impressive. Also in our class IRC IV there were S&S Classics such as Dorade and Stormy Weather, both previous winners of the Fastnet. Once on our way to the first Bill (of Portland) the wind dropped

Crew Dinner.

again and the fleet split, some going into the bay and some towards the sea. Slowing, we sailed into our first night at sea, settling into our watch system of four hours during the day and three hours during night time, starting at 08:00 and 20:00 hours. This system worked well. A number of “exclusion zones” were mentioned in the sailing instructions, actually all shipping lanes. The first was Les Gasgets, pretty far South, we thought we would never end up there, but we did and almost drifted into it. Luckily some wind came up and we could sail away. On our plotter/AIS system we saw a big ball of boats very slowly moving Eastwards, it changed into an ellipse and after that further stretched over the day. As long as we sailed along the South Coast the Westerly wind was very thin. Sailing to windward with our 150% genoa we were ghosting along. We did well and kept our position within the first 20 in our class, IRC 4. Our tactic to avoid the bays worked well until Plymouth, the winners went into the bay and were heavily rewarded. After more than two days we approached the Scillies. The weather changed and different outfits were required. With our genoa No 3 and a reef in the main we crossed a very bumpy Celtic Sea. We expected the wind to veer to the West but on the

contrary it turned against us. Instead of reaching the Rock in one go, tacks had to be made. A mistake costing too many miles and places. With Ireland and the Fastnet Rock in sight we needed the engine to run for some power. Pushing the start button was unsuccessful. After two hours of trouble shooting the only option remained to enter Baltimore and fix the problem. A brilliant mind pushed the button one more time right in front of the harbour entrance and the engine awoke. With great relief we continued and we were still in the race. (Back in Holland the problem was there again: main battery switch malfunction!) Rounding the Rock was a bit of a deception. The wind died completely and we faced the Rock for three hours, not being able to round it. A fellow competitor sailing next to us could just make it and arrived six hours earlier in Plymouth. Different weather was approaching and the first of it was expected on the way back on the Celtic Sea. Genoa No 4 and two reefs in the main kept it all under control. Eventually we arrived in a 20 Knts breeze in Plymouth. Great relief and satisfaction, realising we could still have been in Ireland. Sailed time four days, 22 hours and 35 minutes. We sailed 20 nm more than the overall winner, but it took us a day longer. As if we knew it, we moored next to a Frenchman who used to own a Baltic 39, but more importantly owns a cognac house! With a bottle of XO in hand he was very welcome on board to view the boat.Victory cigars made it a good arrival. With pleasure we hoisted the sponsor’s flag as you only get it (the same goes for the T-shirts) when you finish the race. A great race for its length, diversity and preparation. It is a project and to round it up this way is overwhelming. A great crew makes a race like the Fastnet a success.

By Marc van Bemmel, Lemminkainen The Racing Crew.

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is delighted to support

TheisClyde Cruising Club delighted to support Glasgow office: 14 Carnoustie Place, Glasgow, G5 8PB Tel: 0141 429 1094 Fax: 0141 429 5638

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Socialising

in the

Hebrides

Tinker’s Hole Zubenubi.

Lyrebird – Maxi 1000 Crew: Clive and Flora Reeves Total distance: 638 nm mostly under sail

he start of our holiday, at Rhu Marina, stocking the boat with our 30 bags of gear. We had experienced continuous rain for 36 hours and now it was finally easing as we were getting ready to leave. The plan was to meet up with the Camerons on Dream Catcher at Campbeltown who were returning home, as the weather had been so awful, after only a week of sailing on the West Coast.

27 June – Depart Rhu Marina 08:10 hours Dry with a South Westerly wind on the nose, so motored to Garroch Head where we set sail in 10 Knts round the top end of Arran and down the Kilbrannan Sound. Near the shore at Carradale we heard people on a fishing boat flying a Union Flag shouting on Channel 16 but we did not pick up anything. We then noticed a boat laying cables. We were obviously too close. As the wind

was down to 5 Knts we doused sails and motored to Campbeltown with a number two sail. It was a big sea, with wind and tide against us, we were down to 4 Knts at times, the crew were not happy! We finally arrived at Campbeltown where we met up with the in-laws and had dinner and drinks on Dream Catcher. Our holiday had begun.

28 June – Campbeltown Stayed all day as the forecast was 30 plus Knts at the Mull so we made use of the new pontoons and toilets which had just opened and were very popular. After a long lie we had coffee at the Cameron’s boat before they set sail to Tarbert in a strong SouthWesterly with a soldiers’ wind all the way. There was a fleet of 20 or more classic French boats from Brittany doing a cruise of the West Coast. I advised them on the best route using our CCC Directions, and we were invited later for drinks (Cognac) on the lead boat where we again

discussed their route, advising them not to go round the South side of Islay, which is not the best place with a strong South Westerly wind.

29 June – Campbeltown to Islay After picking up some fresh rolls and ginger ale (our French friends had consumed our supplies) we departed at 09:15 to catch the tide round the Mull. There was little wind so we motored to the Barrels and, with the wind now up to 12 Knts, we set sail. Our speed over the ground was 7/8 Knts with the tide and the sea state okay for the Mull. We poled out the genoa after the Mull and sailed all the way to Port Ellen averaging 6 Knts, the weather being dull with occasional drizzle. After tying up at some new pontoons we got chatting (again) with the owner of the Westerly Storm, Alistair Beatty and his crew Lawrie Prescott; a CCC member and past owner of a Maxi 1000/1100.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 77

Campbeltown.

We invited them aboard for drinks before our meal then they invited us back on their boat for drinks after dinner. Lawrie was delighted to be reacquainted with our Maxi, Lyrebird. He advised us to visit Rona, the name of his last boat, as it was on our way to Orkney where we were intending to sail.

30 June – Port Ellen to Tinker’s Hole on Mull A wet and windy day but from the South West, so the wind would be with us. There was a huge sea at the entrance to Port Ellen, Flora was not happy, so we motored to the last of the rocks with a reefed main and self tacking jib and flew off at 6-8 Knts with no visibility in sea mist and rain. The wind was 25 Knts and we needed to put in a tack before the headland at the Ardmore Islands as we were very close to the rocks. It was a bit scary with no visibility. In the Sound of Islay the sea was down although still windy, I decided that we would try for West Loch Tarbert and anchor there, as Tinker’s Hole our intended destination was quite a distance away and the crew were not happy bunnies.

Sailing to Applecross.

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The Applecross Inn.

However, as we approached the entrance to West Loch Tarbert, the wind was whistling down the hills at an alarming rate over 40 plus Knts. We needed another reef and I decided to sail on. As we cleared the land the wind reduced to 30 Knts then to 25 Knts as we approached Tinker’s Hole. However as we neared the Mull shore, an already big sea became very confused, on a couple of occasions forcing an involuntary gybe so I dropped the sails for the last hour to avoid losing the mast. We had made a loose arrangement to meet Barrie and Marian Waugh, Zubenubi. We doubted anyone else would be so daft to be out in these conditions. However, they were there. Barrie was tying on a stern rope to the CCC rings on the shore to stop them swinging around. It was great to see them and a relief for Flora to have some company. Marian had a super meal laid on which we enjoyed with a few refreshments, the wind dying all the while to give us a quiet night in this favourite CCC anchorage.

of Erraid towards the Sound of Iona and hoisted the sails in a light SouthEast wind. After four hours the wind died and veered to the North, so we motored to Muck passing Staffa, Ulva, Lunga and Ardnamurchan. Using our CCC Directions, we managed to navigate the rocks marked with poles at Muck and anchored in Port Mor. We were the only boat. After dinner we had a wander ashore walking to the other side noting that the Gallanach Lodge where we had coffee two years ago is no longer open to non-residents. There were four boats at anchor on the North Anchorage quite far off shore. With a South Easterly forecast, we wondered if we were the wrong side of Muck. Flora visited the craft shop on the way back with its honesty box but did not buy anything. The island is looking very prosperous with new houses for the fish farm, a community hall, the fields all planted and loads of sheep and cows. We had a lovely evening in a lovely place with the company of lots of birds, especially guillemots.

1 July – Tinker’s Hole to Muck

2 July – Muck to Kyle of Lochalsh

First sunny morning as we motored slowly out at 10:40 between the rocks

Misty and dreich and with little winds, we were not happy to cross the Minch with no visibility so headed North to Skye with the jib poled out. Off Eigg we had half a mile visibility, then heard the life-boat being called out to a yacht in distress. We sailed on in light winds, the sun appeared briefly at Kylerhea and we finally docked at the pontoons at Kyle of Lochalsh. Flora needed some provisions plus we needed some extra fuel. I walked to the petrol station and Flora went in search of a Co-op but the first three people she stopped to ask directions couldn’t speak English.

On her return to the pontoons a fishing boat passed and set Lyrebird rolling badly and, with missing cleats, we decided to move as the pontoons are only really suitable for a short stay. We moved over to the moorings off Kyleakin on Skye, a short distance away just before the bridge. After dinner we had a walk ashore and I went to investigate the pontoons at Kyleakin. There was very little room; boats, mostly local were rafted up. We then made a hasty retreat back to the boat as the midges were biting. We had a quiet night on a mooring, which were mainly taken by permanent boats.

3 July – Kyle to via Applecross to Rona At last a sunny day, but with no wind and glassy calm, we decided to make for Applecross, having passed often but never had the correct weather to land.We motored the whole way and anchored off the village in three metres under the keel – Mediterranean conditions. Shorts on for the trip ashore where we enjoyed a superb pub lunch outside the hotel along with loads of other tourists – bikers from the States and England, all enjoying the sun and the Guinness! We managed to connect to the internet to give us a forward forecast plus 42 emails.We couldn’t believe it by same time tomorrow it was to be a F8 gale with unsettled spells for the next week or more. After lunch we motored to South Rona which would give us shelter from the strong East winds. We arrived at 21:00 and had drinks

in the cockpit – to be the last for a while. Five other boats were at anchor, another one arrived late and picked up a buoy marking a reef. They promptly went aground. We later found out they thought it was a mooring that they had pre-booked. After realising their mistake they moved on to the mooring further in near the shore.

4 July – Rona – all day I spent the morning fixing the floor on the rubber dinghy and writing my log. The wind was very strong with frequent showers. We had hoped to make Orkney (only two days sail away). However, with the forecast for continuing bad weather and the temperature at Orkney only eight degrees, plus 46 Knts of wind – the crew decided she was going no further and the heating was not working! We had a walk ashore hoping for a shower, but at £5.00 we declined and they also charge £1.00 each person to land on their pontoon. The final indignity was getting soaked speaking to the warden outside his front door. I walked to top of the hill for some photos and was blown over with the wind and fell into a peat bog. Not the best of days, grey and menacing with frequent showers. On our return to the boat the wind veered to the East putting us near the reef in the West corner of the anchorage. I would have preferred to anchor on the East side, however there was no room as it was taken up with other yachts. We had 40 metres of chain out so I pulled some in which pulled us clear of the reef.

Note when we pulled up the anchor next morning we had to motor it out with our spade covered in thick mud, good holding!

5 July – Rona to Berneray in the Sound of Harris As the weather was very unsettled we decided to head home so we plotted a course for our favourite Island of Berneray, arriving after half water with rising tide, which was approximately 19:00. We departed in light winds with mostly dry conditions, and the odd shower and managed to get the tide right round the North end of Skye all the way to Berneray, sailing and motor sailing our way across the Minch. (The first time we sailed round the North end of Skye was in 1988 with our Highlander 28, Hanky Panky, surfing down the waves in 30 Knts of wind). Today was tranquil and on arrival at Buoy No 1 we navigated the reefs through the sound, using the ferry channel, with just 0.9 of a metre under us at one point. We arrived safely at the harbour, which was quite full of fishing boats. We managed to tie alongside a yacht, so not interfering with the fishing boats, which would be leaving early in the morning. Our friend Wee Donald arrived and assured us we were in the right place. After dinner we had a wonderful walk to the East beach with the sun shining with wonderful views to the Lewis hills, just magic!

6 to 7 July – We stayed at Berneray for two days. It was wet and misty Next morning we had a long lie and then on to the visitor centre to connect to their Wi-Fi where we downloaded the weather for the next few days and bought some T-shirts. Then back to the boat for showers at the harbour – only £1.00 South Rona.

South Rona.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 79

Berneray.

with enough time for us both to shower. In the afternoon we walked along to visit our old friend Mary McGaskil; her husband Angus used to take Prince Charles fishing many years ago. She is in her 90’s, very frail in body but bright in mind. We had a good chat then round to the East Bay with the weather improving all the time. We sat in the long grass watching the returning fishing boats picking their way through the many reefs. On our return to our boat we discovered another boat moored alongside Lyrebird with a generator running.

7 July – It was a miserable morning so we decided to get the bus to Lochmaddy We walked to the Lobster Pot – the island’s only store, for coffee and caught the post bus at 11:35, which sped at high speed along the narrow roads. We had lunch at the visitor centre and then walked along to see the new marina, where we met another CCC member, Ian Buchanan, from Clar Innis. They also had intended to sail to Orkney but had an engine problem and, like us, decided with the inclement weather not to venture further North. We were invited for coffee on board and sheltered from the rain inside their large cockpit enclosure. On returning to the boat we invited our neighbours, yacht Plumb from Loch Carrion, for a drink after dinner. They had been waiting for the right wind to go to St. Kilda.

8 July – Berneray to Canna It was a fine morning with the tide right at 10:00 to navigate the sound although it was blowing 25 Knts in the harbour and we were hemmed

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The Minch.

in with the other yacht. After a bit of manoeuvring we scrambled out of the harbour to make our way through the sound using the ferry channel again, watching the depth sounder all the while. At the entrance of the sound we hoisted a reefed main and small jib and in a North-Westerly wind had a great sail, leaving the Hebrides behind doing 6 to 9 Knts on an empty sea, save for a few fishing boats. We arrived at Canna, a few years since we have been with the wind still blowing at 25 Knts, most moorings were taken so we anchored. We did not go ashore after dinner as it was getting late and we needed to pump up the dinghy.

to secure a pontoon berth and went ashore for a meal at the MacDonald Arms Hotel for fish and chips. Slipping at 00:50 that night – South-Easterly F 5 to 6 and showers.

9 July – Canna to Rhum (Glen Harris) to Tobermory

12 July – Tobermory to Loch Aline – My birthday!

We had lots of weed on the anchor but it held okay. Dull, dry and no wind as we motored passed Rhum, I decided to anchor at Glen Harris, having passed many times. We took the opportunity to explore the Bullough Mausoleum. After anchoring in bit of a swell we pumped up the dinghy and made for the shore which was very rocky and in the swell made it difficult to land; we had wet bottoms. We then had to cross a stream before climbing up to the mausoleum – no easy thing for a couple of pensioners. After a good look around and having taken some great photos we returned to the boat. Disaster struck when we started to cross the burn. Flora slipped and went head first into the water; she was completely submerged. I pulled her out soaked to the skin, and we managed to get back on to the boat. It was all my fault of course. As the wind had now picked up we sailed on round Ardnamurchan to Tobermory where we managed

After three nights at Tobermory we had to move. The rain had stopped so we headed for Loch Aline saying cheerio to our new found friends. Hardly any wind so we sailed and motor-sailed slowly down the Sound of Mull and anchored at the head of Loch Aline for a quiet night at anchor.

10 to 11 July – At Tobermory It rained all day. After stocking up at the Co-op we went for showers and then watched the tennis at Macgochans pub along with loads of yachties, a few of whom were CCC members and then had dinner aboard. On Saturday it was still raining so we decided to stay another night. We accepted an invite from the next boat. It was very sociable.

13 July – Loch Aline to Easdale to Balvicar Flora wanted to go home and as I wanted to do the Tobermory Race we arranged to leave Lyrebird on a mooring at Balvicar Bay which was kindly lent to us by club member Alistair Mill. We sailed to Easdale Island to wait for the tide between the CCC perches and then through Cuan Sound. Having never landed before we picked up a mooring and went ashore. It was a wet morning but it was interesting to see the village and imagine what it must have been like when they were quarrying the slates. Back on board we motored round to Balvicar Bay and picked

our mooring. After packing up we went ashore and started walking to the Tigh-an-Truish pub for dinner after a few minutes we were given a lift from someone we had met earlier at Easdale. When we arrived we met another friend Gordon Garman from our old club at Cardwell Bay. We had a superb evening in the pub which has not changed since the last time we were there 20 years ago.

drove back to Edinburgh after a great few days. I was now on my own so rather than staying at a marina I decided to visit a wee anchorage on the East side of the islands in Loch Craignish, Eilean Nan Gabhar; nice and sheltered, however the rain arrived (again) so I had early night as tomorrow would be a long day.

14 July – Balvicar to Helensburgh

Left just after 10:00 to catch the first of the tide South with a South-Westerly wind up to 30 Knts on the nose. I had a reef in the main and the selftacking jib. I was able to sail hard on the wind all the way with only a few tacks needed to made good progress. However, there was an enormous sea off Loch Caolisport but as I neared Gigha the sea reduced. Although it was still windy at 25 to 30 Knts, I tacked into Ardminish Bay under full sail and tried to anchor.There was no room except at the South end which is shallow. I reluctantly picked up a mooring.The rain was now off and with the wind dying I decided to make for the Mull that evening with an okay tide after 22:00. Left at 22:00 hours with the light now fading. Full sail with the wind now from the West, and with no tacking needed I was able to use the autohelm. It went on strike on the way down but after a bit of wire pulling it was okay. Just South of Gigha I had a near disaster. In the failing light I did not see a pot in my path, the boat came to a sudden halt! To my relief she pulled herself free after a few moments.The journey round the Mull was terrific with light winds and a clear moon lighting the starry sky; a wonderful sail. For once the sea was very gentle round the Mull.

Bus to Oban and train to Helensburgh

19 July – Balvicar to Ardfern Graham Crawford, CCC Cruising Secretary had volunteered to do the Tobermory Race with me and took us up by car to the boat at Balvicar.

20 July – Ardfern to Tobermory There were only five starters We had a terrific sail across to Mull, surfing up to 10 Knts the wind dropped in the Sound of Mull with Celtic Spirit managing to pull away and we finished second. We had a great dinner aboard Zubenubi having had to raft up as the marina was full.

21 July – At Tobermory (again) Busy day – walked to the Mishnish for drinks and then organised a predinner drinks party on Lyrebird for all the CCC yachts with everyone leaving about 20:00. Then after dinner we had a whisky tasting and music aboard Micky Finn It was a great night.

22 July – Tobermory to Ardfern to Eilean Nan Gabhar (Loch Craignish) Sailed most of the way to Ardfern and dropped off Graham who then Rhum, Glen Harris.

23 to 24 July – Loch Craignish to Gigha to Davaar Island

The wind finally died at the Red Barrels so I motored round to anchor for a few hours off Davaar Island (opposite the Cave on the South side) and I managed a few hours of sleep.

24 July – Davaar to Helensburgh Lovely morning. I left at 09:55 after a few hours of sleep and made for Pladda on Arran with the wind behind me, I managed to hoist the spinnaker and ghosted along under auto-helm until the wind finally died and I had to motor all the way to the Cloch Lighthouse with a final sail to Helensburgh. My first proper single-handed sail was most enjoyable with no one to argue with. I must do it again! It was disappointing not getting to Orkney as we had planned, however the CCC members who did make it had miserable weather, so we did not miss much. Oh well there’s always another year! Usually when we are sailing on the West side of the Outer Hebrides we can go for a fortnight and not meet any other yachts. This year we seemed to have parties every night. We met some lovely people and enjoyed the social chat and it was good to plug in the heater in the marinas to keep the boat dry on the many miserable days we encountered this year. Next year we hope to be back on the West side, at the Monachs/ Luskentyre/Scarp etc. with only the seals and birds for company, enjoying a dram and watching the sun dip down over the horizon – Magic!

By Clive & Flora Reeves, Lyrebird

Tobermory Race.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 81

Approaching Inverness.

Halcyon days! Round the top to Orkney Halcyon – Beneteau Oceanis 36

t was not the best start for our summer cruise. No wind and halfway we were motoring to Campbeltown when Malene mentioned that she thought the water pump had stopped working.With no sense of urgency I went downstairs to check – only to find the floorboards floating. Don’t PANIC…so, very calmly, I tasted the water… ‘phew’ it was fresh. Okay the fresh water tank may have burst but sinking was not imminent. No ‘Mayday’ today. With the engine running we had not heard that the water pump was on constantly. Luckily we quickly spotted a disconnected hose to the hot water tank, replaced the joint, tightened a few jubilee clips and all was fixed – before the bilge pump had emptied out all the water. Bilge pumps can be painfully slow when you really need them.While I was at it, I decided to tighten every jubilee clip I could find. I was amazed how many of them were loose but it was not on my annual maintenance schedule – it is now! Looking at the positive side; a nice, clean bilge is a

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good start for any cruise. An extra large gin and tonic on arrival at Campbeltown seemed appropriate. We had a late start to get the tides right for going round the Mull of Kintyre and enough time to try a distillery visit and buy a bottle of Springbank 10 year old whisky – starting a dangerous precedent of buying a bottle from each local distillery. The forecast was not good. It was okay to start, but was to become F7 “for a time”. We decided to go for it and reckoned that we could get round the Mull before the front came over and by that time the wind would be behind us. Just as we were preparing for departure the jolly skipper from the next boat asked us where we were heading. “Have you seen this forecast?” he said rather pointedly and waved some paper at us. He then read his note out loud to us. Being rather overwhelmed by all this information, we assured him we would be okay. He wandered off shaking his head and muttering something like “you’re braver than me”.

As soon as we got past Davaar Island the swell increased and with the wind on our nose we were beginning to think the man had a point. The lifeboat coming towards us from the South was also a little unnerving – then we realised that he was going to assist a boat with engine failure just ahead of us. We flew through Sanda Sound at more than 10 Knts over the ground. The wind kept increasing and as we rounded the Mull the F7 was in full force – still it was only “for a time” so, in an increasing swell, we headed rapidly toward Gigha under headsail only. The “for a time” turned out to be about 12 hours so when we arrived at Gigha to pick up a mooring buoy it was gusting up to 40 Knts from the South East which meant that Ardminish bay was anything but ideal. The mooring buoys look the normal large buoy with a small pick-up – fab, pick it up with the boat hook drop it on and job done! Fifty minutes later. I was confused when the pick-up buoy was only a bit of string and trying to hold on against the wind cut my finger so we now had blood all over the bow. We tried again and again, and again – then decided on a new strategy, we dug out the rope-chain rope carefully spliced a couple of years ago and set about lassoing the buoy. With the boat bouncing and the buoy bouncing – not in sync – and with Malene having

Cape Rounded – Weather improving.

Approaching Cape Wrath.

a few seconds on the wheel before the wind turned the bow I had one throw on each approach, if lucky. A couple of times I thought I had it, but the buoy would throw off the chain like a wild horse and a bad cowboy. We lost count of the number of attempts, but our tracking device showed we had done at least one nm round the buoy in those 50 minutes. We had been looking forward to a fine, relaxing meal at the lovely and probably nice and warm restaurant on Gigha but there was no rowing ashore that night. We then wandered up the West coast for the following days with alternate strong winds and no wind and enjoyed the company of friends Raymond and Laura for a couple of the passages, including a young sea eagle coming within ten yards of the boat and a definite whale sighting.We passed through Kyle Rhea on a misty no wind day with low revs to save fuel, and 13 Knts over the ground due to the amazing current running. Finding fuel can be an issue further North so we bought another two ten-litre carriers and filled them up at Kyle of Lochalsh. We then had a couple of longish days and decided to keep pressing on rather than explore some really tempting anchorages – time for that on the way back we reckoned.The forecast was for wind from the South so as we reached Kinlochbervie late.We decided to leave

Ring of Brodgar at Sunset.

early next morning to try to make Orkney, or more specifically enter the Sound of Hoy towards Stromness with the 9 Knts of current in the right direction We had thought we might need to do an overnight stint for the long leg to Stromness but in the end a favourable wind and tidal window meant the rounding of Cape Wrath was in a moderate swell and a fast sail towards Orkney. It does feel a bit like the end of the world, before you round the Cape. But then the beautiful North coast appears, and it feels quite civilized again. The challenge is approaching the Sound of Hoy and the entrance to Stromness Harbour on a favourable tide as the currents are faster than our boat – this is a bit of a challenge at the end of a long passage – we had done the estimated times at 5 Knts and 6 Knts averages and in marvellous sunshine we were pleased to have arrived on schedule. As we entered the Sound of Hoy we kept waiting for the ferocious current to

take us quickly to our destination, alas no current. Malene redid the calculations in case we had made an error, but no, the current should be with us. Eventually, within sight of Stromness the swirling waters arrived and for 15 minutes we flew along at 12 Knts until we rounded the corner and arrived suddenly at the entrance to Stromness Harbour, basking in sunshine and an easing wind. We had arrived and took great pleasure in buying an Orcadian flag and of course a bottle of Highland Park. We decided we had pushed the boat, and ourselves, hard enough for a few days and when we saw the forecast of a gale approaching we settled on staying in Stromness, a fine town, for a few days. Orkney is to be highly recommended, not just for sailors, as the prehistoric sites are fascinating and we hired bicycles to set about visiting every site within a 20 mile radius. We particularly enjoyed the guided tour of the archaeological dig currently being undertaken each summer just South of the Ring of Brodgar – as well as the beer at the Orkney Brewery. The next day we used ferries to cycle from the South to the North end of Hoy – a lonely place. The only time we could book a visit to Maes Howe was in the evening the same day and by then it was a gale force wind. Malene wanted to watch the sun going down at the Ring of Brodgar on the way back which brought us up to well over 50 Km on the bikes that day – but well worth the effort. Being amongst these huge stones in the fading light and with

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Summer Days!

no people around gave us a closer connection to our distant relatives some 5,000 years ago. We ended up staying a week in Stromness and visited Kirkwall by bus rather than boat as planned, partly due to weather and partly laziness. But… Nae man can tether time or tide; The hour approaches Tam maun ride The forecast indicated a good weather window before the lows started piling in again so we decided against sailing back down the West coast and to instead head for the Caledonian Canal. We carefully did the calculations to cross the Pentland Firth to Wick. Both virgins to the Pentland Firth we were slightly apprehensive as we left Stromness. Initially the expected current just was not there. Again we checked our calculations and again the tide started to behave as expected once it knew we were right. We spent the next two hours travelling at 60 degrees to the way we were pointing. I was convinced for more than an hour that we would leave the Island of Stroma to port (our planned course left it to starboard) and tried to convince Malene to let me change course. She declined, I pleaded, she declined. Just hold your course she insisted – against all my instinct I did as I was told and suddenly right at the last minute we swept well past Stroma leaving it to starboard and doing 14 Knts over the ground. The current was in full force and the eddies, swirling whirlpools, and overfalls were impressive. The eerie flat calms were the scariest. We headed rapidly towards Duncansby Head with Malene using our new chart plotter to good effect and with some relief we enjoyed good

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The Loch Ness Monster – wind.

views of the cliffs as we turned South towards Wick – and of course a bottle of Old Pulteney – a much under-rated malt, we decided! We had an early start the next day wanting to reach Inverness as the “harbours” along the Northeast coast do not sound that inviting. We left Wick in a rare, lovely quiet morning, but no rest for the wicked. The wind picked up and the direction meant it was a close reach and we motorsailed at 7-8 Knts, virtually the whole way to Inverness. We passed under the Kessock Bridge and were even in time to enter the canal system just before closing. We suddenly felt the safety of civilisation and with more gales forecast it was comforting to be nestled in an umbilical canal. Friends David and Moyra paid us a visit and insisted on us staying overnight with them at their lovely home on the Black Isle – a proper bed for the first time for four weeks. Another David joined Halcyon the next day to help us through the canal and we found it much easier to manage than the Crinan Canal – less

Typical Orkney Mainland.

bouncing about in the locks. Down through Loch Ness there was no sign of the monster and no sign of other boats either as the F7 wind seemed to deter both people and monsters. Of course the wind was on our nose. We motored at high revs and achieved an average of 2.2 Knts. We zigzagged up the loch seeking shelter from one side or the other but with little success. David’s wife Nan collected him the next day and brought us an excellent lunch. The weather the following day looked promising so we stayed at Loch Lochy to climb the two Munros rather than pass them by un-ticked and after all we had brought our boots. It was downhill from here, well at least the locks were downhill and two people can easily manage those. By the time we got to Neptune’s Staircase we had the down locks off to a tee and took it as a compliment that the staff did not offer any help. Fort William to Oban was pleasant sailing and we took our time and relaxed as much as we could – the boys were arriving in two days to turn the boat from a cruiser into racing mode ready for West Highland Yachting Week – a great event – but that is another story.

By Stephen Owen, Halcyon

Eilean Glas Lighthouse, Scalpay.

Tarskavaig “In search of summer” Crew – Andrew Thomson (Skipper), Graham Kilgour, Christopher Kilgour, Kaitlin Mackie, David Bushby, Gitte Bushby and Ken Heiser Boat – Tarskavaig – Hanse 400

he main cruise of the year took place in August – a couple of months later than normal, which was no bad thing given the very mixed summer weather. With the usual plan of “head North and West as conditions permit”, Tarskavaig left Craobh shortly after noon on Sunday 16 August. Accompanying me were Graham Kilgour, Christopher Kilgour and Kaitlin Mackie. The winds were very light and from the South, and we waited until through Cuan before hoisting the sails. That said, motor-sailing was the order of the day, but good progress was made with the aid of the flood tide. Passing Duart Castle, Christopher spotted a distant eagle, as he had done on the equivalent cruise in 2014. Approaching Lochaline, the wind picked up a little and we managed a full 10 minutes of “sailing” before resorting to motor-sailing. On arrival in Tobermory at 18:00 we picked up a mooring before going ashore. Unfortunately, the outboard was playing up yet again, and the

rowlocks for the Zodiac were on the way out – all very familiar (see CCC 2014 submission!). However, it was nothing that could not be resolved, and we left these problems for Monday, and enjoyed a chicken, bacon and tomato pasta bake supper on board, prepared by Graham. The cockpit of Tarskavaig resembled a workshop the following morning as Graham and I dismantled the Yamaha outboard to check the fuel line was clear, but alas this made no difference. A few phone calls later, I spoke to Mull resident Andy Kirsop who duly came to take the outboard away for some TLC. This gave us time for another trip ashore, and I took the opportunity to catch up with friend and Tobermory resident Richard Inglis, purchase some smoked haddock from Mull Fish, and order replacement rowlocks for the Zodiac – for delivery to Portree Post Office. Andy returned with the outboard by 15:00 – contaminated fuel had been the problem.We were now free to depart, and headed out for Ardnamurchan. The winds were again very light,

which meant more motor-sailing. However, the clouds were clearing, and that rare commodity, sunshine, was much appreciated! With smooth seas the conditions were ideal for spotting sealife; first up was a pod of around 20 dolphins to the South of Muck. This topped shortly afterwards by six basking sharks – a first sighting for all of us.We had a memorable 20 minutes watching them at close quarters. It was a reminder of how lucky we are to have waters of this quality on our doorstep. Continuing North, we arrived at Eigg at 18:30, and anchored on the South side of Galmisdale Point – a good vantage point to watch the sun setting over the Sgurr, with the skipper’s chilli for dinner. Tuesday morning brought another blue sky day. Graham and I were keen to explore, and took the dinghy over to Eilean Chathastail, walking up to the highest point on the island where Robert Lawrie Thomson, a former laird of Eigg, is buried. Our progress from there to the lighthouse was closely monitored from the safety of the water by several seals.

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Back on board Tarskavaig, we all had breakfast before landing on Eigg for a walk along the shore, and making some purchases in the village shop. Eigg visitation complete, Tarskavaig continued North, observing a large school of around 50 dolphins in the distance, and passing a minke whale at closer range.The crew had not sailed into Inverie before, and we took a short detour to make a visit to the Old Forge, and buy some vension from the Knoydart community shop. Departing at 16:30, there was finally enough wind (NW F3) to sail, and we had a good passage until the North end of the Sound of Sleat before the wind dropped. Motoring through Kyle Rhea, we anchored in Ob na Portan (Kyleakin) at 20:45, ready for a delicious roast haunch of venison dinner. Wednesday morning started with a short trip to the pontoons at Kyle of Lochlash to take on water, before heading up to Portree.We passed between Longay and Scalpay for a change, instead of leaving both to port. For me at least, there is always a temptation to stop and explore the smaller islands; Longay would have to wait for another time, perhaps when I had a machete on board to clear a path through the extensive undergrowth! Sunny conditions with variable winds persisted until arrival in Portree, where we picked up a mooring. By now the wind was increasing from the South, bringing showers, which made for some wet and lively trips to the pontoon in the dinghy.This was crew change time, and the Ayrshire contingent departed by bus, to be replaced by the Perthshire contingent who arrived by bus. In due course we were all back on board, sustained by a G&T followed by kedgeree prepared by the skipper. The Thursday morning forecast was for South East F5-7 winds. The intention was to cross the Little Minch to Scalpay, with the option of bailing out in Staffin if conditions dictated. On departure from Portree at 09:00, the wind was South East F5. The first tack took Tarskavaig to the West side of Rona, before we gybed, and set a course for Toddun – the prominent hill on the West side of Loch Seaforth. The winds varied between F3-6, with some good sailing. A change of course when halfway across took us between

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Anchorage at Eigg.

Galmisdale Pt (Eigg) looking SE.

the shoal patches of rock and towards East Loch Tarbert; the air draught of Tarskavaig would put her too close to the Scalpay Bridge for my liking! By now the conditions were definitely lively, but calm soon returned once anchored in the sanctuary of the North Harbour. We dined ashore in the bistro at the head of the pier; I was delighted to see that pork belly with scallops was still on the menu! The bistro remains one of my favourite eateries anywhere in Scotland. The following morning, the wind seemed as strong as it had been the previous day, and we elected to stay put and explore Scalpay. A short walk to the South Harbour turned into a longer walk to the Eilean Glas lighthouse. En route, we spoke to several Scalpachs; there is a genuine friendliness in the islands which one does not always find on the mainland. A good track past some peat banks leads down to the lighthouse. Adjacent, a sign marks the ruins of the original light, which was one of the first four to be established in Scotland in 1787. Returning to Scalpay, we had a cup of tea with friends of Ken who were touring the Western Isles in their motorhome, before returning

to Tarskavaig. Dinner that evening (left over chilli), whilst perfectly adequate, did not hit the culinary high spots of the previous evening! Saturday morning – time to move on. However, first stop was the Scalpay pier to take on water (straightforward), and diesel (trickier – one needs to tie up close to the head of the pier as the hose has limited reach, invariably alongside the local creel boats). Unfortunately the self-serve function for CneS account holders was not working, but the CneS Harbour Master, Kenny Morrison, is a local resident, and he soon got the tanks filled up with 64 litres, and we were underway. I decided again to transit via East Loch Tarbert – the air draft for Tarskavaig is around 19.5 m, which would not leave much margin for error with the 20 m at HAT under Scalpay Bridge, even allowing for the tides.With the winds still from a Southerly direction (F3/4), we elected to head up towards Stornoway, and had a pretty reasonable passage with only occasional assistance from the engine. From the Rubh Uisenis light North was virgin territory for me, and I had no intention of spending a night alongside a Stornoway pontoon with so many enticing anchorages on offer.

Sunset over Loch Erisort.

Within Loch Erisort, Loch Thorasdaidh was first on the list, but with a fish farm filling the mouth of the loch we elected to look elsewhere, and finished up in the bay to the South West of Rubha Caversta. Aside from a being a peaceful anchorage, it also proved to be a perfect spot to watch the sun setting over Lewis. I am sure we ate well again that evening, but whatever we had was not recorded in the log! The forecast the next morning was for North East winds, veering South East South over the next 48 hours. With this, it made sense to cross over the Minch rather than head up to Stornoway. Early morning showers cleared by 11:00, and we had a sunny passage, but the North East winds failed to materialise.The original plan had been to make for Gairloch, but with the wind East South East, F3-6 with the occasional squall reaching F7, that proved a non – starter. After trying for Loch Torridon and eventually coming to the same conclusion, we eased the sheets and headed for Acarseid Mhor. It was a relief to finally pass down the West side of Rona, and get some respite from the choppy Minch. On arrival at the “Big Harbour” there were already a number of yachts at anchor.The wind was still F5 at this point, and I did not want to risk trying to squeeze in somewhere given the various underwater reefs, and decided to go down to the North Harbour at Fladday instead, despite some disquiet from the crew! We had this to ourselves, and made sure the anchor was well bedded in given the comments in the pilot book. Although I had been there before it was a new anchorage for the crew, so they really had nothing to complain about! Dinner (pizza) was very welcome after an 11 hour passage.

Monday dawned sunny, with the wind S F3. After a leisurely breakfast we weighed anchor, and spent ten minutes removing huge clumps of kelp, no doubt the reason for “poor holding” as reported in the pilot book. We motor-sailed down the Sound of Raasay before finally getting enough wind to sail to the Skye Bridge, then tied up on the pontoons at Kyle of Lochalsh. I filled up the water tanks and got a replacement gas bottle whilst the crew stocked up in the Co-op. With Tarskavaig replenished, we pressed on whilst the tide South through Kyle Rhea was favourable (even if the wind was not) and in due course anchored at Isle Ornsay for the night. Ken took a turn in the galley and rustled up chicken boursin with bacon, which was well received by all. The winds had not shifted the following morning (S F2), and there was nothing for it but to fire up the engine and engage the autopilot for the passage South. Our passage was not helped by the weed that accumulated on the hull since the start of the season, which I reckoned was taking at least one knot off the boat speed.There was no sign of the prolific sealife that we had seen on the way North, and we duly arrived in Tobermory 7½ hours later. A brief discussion ensued over the merits of anchoring in Aros Bay / pontoon berth / picking up a mooring…a mooring it was, which did have the benefit of being an easy dinghy trip to the steps at the Mishnish, preceded by a G&T on board.We met Richard Inglis there for a drink before debating options for dinner. In between rounds I walked down to Café Fish, but they were fully booked. David needed little persuasion to go for a

curry, particularly given the Sagar was a stone’s throw away, and we were well looked after by the staff there. Wednesday morning – Ken, Gitte and I went ashore leaving David in charge of the boat. A large cruise ship was anchored out in the Sound of Mull, and Tobermory was busy with passengers who had come ashore to visit. Mull Fish (purchase of scallops), the Co-op, and the local craft shops all received our custom before we returned to Tarskavaig. By now it was raining, and it was no surprise to find the wind on the nose as we headed down the Sound. David, Ken and the autopilot took charge on deck whilst Gitte (knitting) and the skipper (making soup) remained down below. Prior to our departure, the option of a walk from Salen to Loch na Keal had been discussed if the weather cleared as forecast. As we approached Salen, there was little sign of improvement but I had not anchored there before and decided it was worth a lunch stop.The hot soup was welcome relief for the deck crew, but by the end of lunch it was still raining so we decided to push on to Craobh. It was my turn to stand the watch, but by the time we were abeam of Lochaline the rain was off. It remained dry for the remainder of our passage through Cuan and back to Craobh, where we were alongside by 20:00. Given the weather to date that summer, we had been very lucky to be on the receiving end of some sunny and warm weather, with only two half days of rain. The sealife sightings on the way North had been exceptional, and the cuisine on board was definitely “up to standard” – a turn of phrase often used on Aros More. With the exception of the passages over the Minch, the lack of suitable wind and corresponding reliance on the engine had been a slight disappointment, but this was more than offset by returning home with a suntan, and the satisfaction of having visited four new anchorages. So in summary – good trip! Total distance – 324 nm, of which 208 nm motoring / motor-sailing.

By Andrew Thomson, Tarskavaig

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 87

Windless under the Skye Bridge.

Racing Start for a

Gastro Cruise Hecate 2454C – Voyager 40 Crew: Patrick and Jenny Trust, Roger and Annabel Williams with Maisie the dog!

hat a relief that the date and time for the Monday Tobermory start was a civilised 13:00 hrs and the return to the usual mid-July from the change last year made to accommodate the Commonwealth Games. We had planned a week with our mates, Roger and Annabel Williams from the deep South, to meander up the West Coast with some fine dining en route, and had promised my elder son’s father and mother-in-law that we would try to visit them at their cottage in Applecross. However, we had work to do before setting off and were starting the second leg of the Tobermory Race. The forecast was for wind from the West with a bit of rain but not the gale that had scuppered the race to Ardrishaig on Saturday when only Topaz of Lorne had ventured over the line in a gale with other boats returning to the safety of Rothesay. At least I was able to let Dave Robertson know that I had made contact with his dad, skipper on Topaz, whose mobile had run out of battery. A Facebook message on the CCC

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page had asked us to get his dad to call home and, with a quick recharge, news of grandparenthood was joyfully received! Hecate set off from Ardfern at 11:30 and laid the mark in Loch Craignish and anchored to make a reasonable line with the wind in the West.We had a race with five starters even if all boats had to become class 3. The start went well with the four of us on Hecate working together with flags, writing sail numbers, hooter and I also broadcast on VHF, having listened to starts at the Scottish Series. I was unsure about an Irish boat sailing around the start but he said he would just like to follow us on up to Tobermory if that was ok – no bother at all! After a clean start we raised anchor and then the buoy before we set off sailing to chase the fleet. We had 15 Knts of wind and Hecate romped up the Sound of Luing with a good tide under us and the sails ahead clearly seen. The forecast had said the wind would get up to F6 at times so it was a surprise to arrive at Duart and find the five boats becalmed. Hecate motored on to Tobermory and two boats retired, motoring back to Oban. The three remaining yachts were rewarded

with a finish as the wind filled in on the nose but no sign of a F6. Tobermory was busy so we anchored by the old stone pier in the South East bay where Maisie was rowed ashore, and there followed an excellent dinner aboard. We had noticed Longbow when anchoring so invited Ted and Jane Warren over for a wee nightcap and discovered that Annabel had met Jane’s father, who was Professor of Medicine, 50 years ago while doing a student elective at the Groote Schuur Hospital in Capetown. The next morning was dry but overcast and the windlass jammed and failed to pull up the anchor. So it was a manual up-anchor, and very sweaty it was for the skipper who said a few kind words to the windlass as we motored out to Ardnamurchan in a F4 Westerly and then sailed up to Eigg for a lunch at anchor off the pier. Maisie and the men went ashore for a wander after the skipper had dealt with the windlass using a Birmingham screwdriver which shocked the equipment back into action. Upanchor was a doddle and no bending or indigestion after the delicious crab tartlets for lunch. We sailed on up past

Fresh prawns at the Inn, Applecross.

Hecate’s Happy Crew.

Sleat to turn in past Isle Ornsay and pick up one of the three moorings at Loch Na Dal. After walking Maisie and a shower it was all change for dinner at Kinloch Lodge. We did not need the oilies walking up to the hotel but thank goodness for wellies. We smartened up leaving the sea stuff in the porch. The meal was superb even if some of the flavour mixes were a bit unusual. It was still dry when we finished but we donned all the kit and with headtorches walked to the beach for the dinghy ride back to the boat where the boom light guided our return to Maisie who was very pleased to see us all safely back, and then be taken ashore for her evening wander cut short by a vicious midge attack upon the skipper. The morning was a flat calm and the skipper arose to put on the kettle and there out of the window was a seal demolishing a salmon, just leaving the head with backbone still attached. By the time Maisie had been ashore and we breakfasted there was a gentle Easterly and we motorsailed up to Kyle where a brisk Westerly pushed us onto the outer pontoon which was luckily vacant.The Co-op was visited for fresh supplies and we refilled the water tanks, so showering was not a problem for the remainder of the trip.The wind by now was up to 20 Knts and we had difficulty getting off the pontoon but Hecate with her two engines got us out of trouble and we motored under the bridge and then headed North for a boisterous sail up past the Crowlin Isles with a reef in the main. The approach to Poll Creadha was tricky but once the perches had been spotted we went in via the Northern approach.The Sailing Directions were perfect except, as noted, a tree is starting to obscure the white cottage gable end. I had planned to ask the inlaws – Ford and Catherine Shaw – to supper aboard but they would not

Poll Creadha from ashore with Raasay in distance.

hear of it, and we were duly collected by car to be taken to their cottage at Applecross with a wonderful view out West to Raasay across the Inner Sound. An excellent dinner with delightful wine made the evening go well and we even had a lift back to the boat to our mooring at Poll Creadha which Ford had kindly arranged with Eoin Gillies who had laid the mooring last season for his fishing boat.This enabled us to leave the boat the following day which started grey and wet, and go in the Shaw’s car over the Bealach with the most amazing views over the Inner Sound.We had lunch at the walled garden café of Applecross House and in the evening had a superb dinner at the Applecross Inn with the best local seafood of the season. It had been a brilliant day at Applecross and the sun emerged for our walk down to the Inn. We were sorry to leave next morning after coffee aboard and Catherine gave us a naughty chocolaty carryout to help us on our way South.The forecast North West F4 was nowhere to be seen so we had to motor in lovely sunshine back to Muck.Then it was dinner aboard following a sunny walk ashore Date

after dropping the hook near the red can in Port Mor.We had a family of ducks visit and they were delighted to get the crusts from our loaf. We dined aboard and the following morning after Maisie’s walk ashore we had to motor all the way to Loch Aline in sunshine as the forecast variable F3-4 never got to Ardnamurchan or the Sound of Mull. Dinner was at the White House and was up to the usual high standard with superb food and friendly service. The sun shone again in the morning and the forecast wind did not arrive so the engine got us past Duart and then a gentle South Easterly on the nose meant the motor kept going until coffee at Easdale where we anchored to await the tide turning at Cuan. The perch at Cleit Rock was very rusty and difficult to see so I hope the Northern Lighthouse Board will replace it for the CCC this winter as promised. We anchored for a late lunch at Loch Craignish entrance before returning to Ardfern to refuel and finish tidying the boat as the rain started. So finished a week afloat with good sailing North but no wind going South. However the marvellous West Coast seafood made the trip memorable.

By Patrick Trust, Hecate Course

Distance

Monday 20th July

Ardfern to Tobermory

45 nm

Tuesday 21st July

Tobermory to Loch Na Dal

47 nm

Wednesday 22nd July

Loch Na Dal to Poll Creadha

25 nm

Thursday 23rd July

Motorcar over Bealach na Ba!

2053 ft.

Friday 24th July

Poll Creadha to Port Mor

53 nm

Saturday 25th July

Port Mor to Loch Aline

31 nm

Sun 26th.July

Loch Aline to Ardfern

38 nm

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 89

Bella Nova in Björkö.

And luckily there was room for us at the marina – unluckily our berth was alongside the outside of the pier – very noisy. A dinner of smoked salmon, potatoes and corn on the cob, accompanied by a Château Burberry rosé wine, and followed by a couple of drams. In bed by 23:00. Despite a few slaps and slams from the wake of cruise ships en route to/from the Åland Islands, an uneventful night.

Log of Yacht

Bella Nova 7-17 July: Svinninge (near Stockholm) to Taalintehdas (Finland)

DAY 2: Furusund to Mariehamn (Åland Islands) –

Bella Nova – Dufour 385 Crew: Simon and Linda Pender, Willie and Anne Paisley

e had had an excellent cruise three years before in the Swedish archipelago. The charter company we used offered one-way charters (at not very much additional cost), so we decided this year to do a one-way charter from near Stockholm to the charter company’s base in Finland. Simon and Linda flew into Stockholm from Edinburgh, to meet Willie and Anne at the airport there, on their arrival from Philadelphia. We then took a taxi to Vaxholm, an attractive small town on an island not far from Stockholm, where we spent our first night. We had found an interesting bed and breakfast in the castle, which sits on a small island off the town, called Kastellet, a fortress

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built in the early 1800s to defend Stockholm from invasion from the Baltic Sea. We had dinner at the Vaxholm Hotel, before taking a water taxi to the castle. The two co-skippers’ had Baltic herring, Linda had Arctic char, and Anne had some delicious ribs.

DAY 1: Svinninge to Furusund – 27.35 nm. Weather – very windy,

partly sunny, 60 to 65°F Having spent the morning doing some shopping in Vaxholm, and having completed the charter paperwork, we departed from Svinninge Marina at 15:40, bound for Furusund, a small place on an island at the North end of the Archipelago, which we had visited during our cruise three years before. We made a fast passage and arrived at 19:30.

47.2 nm. Weather – overcast, some rain, cold. Light wind We awoke to a dull day with intermittent rain, and set off at 07:00 for Mariehamn in the Åland Islands (technically belonging to Finland, but Swedish speaking, and with political autonomy). After motor-sailing almost the whole way we arrived at 15:00 at the West Harbour, which is very attractive, the marina being next to the SV Pommern, a sailing ship built in Glasgow, a slightly larger version of the tall ship in Glasgow, the SV Glenlee. Anne remarked on the absence of birds and other wildlife on the way over – she suggested it might be because the winter months are so cold and dark that no mammal or bird in its right mind would choose to be there, or maybe because the only visible food source was rocks – lots of rocks! After a late lunch the crew went for a walk through the town. However, the heavens opened and we had to resort to a tourist trolley bus to stay dry. By 18:00 the rain had gone and the sun was out, and we enjoyed beers and the local bar watching evening racing in the sound opposite the marina. All very tired, so following a traditional sailing supper of spaghetti Bolognese, and catching up on emails and reading, went to our bunks at a sensible hour.

DAY 3: In Mariehamn –

beautiful sunny day We hired bikes at the marina, and cycled through the town and out into the countryside, ending up at a small canal cut through the island to save a very long sail from one body of water to another. A very good lunch on the way back.We had managed to make contact with Kia and Tapsa, the Finnish friends we had met during our previous cruise

A chilly but great sail to Björkö.

in the Baltic three years ago.They came aboard for drinks, but unfortunately could not stay for dinner.They treated us to various versions of Finnish firewater drunk out of vessels, which looked like porcelain pipes (the smoking kind!). After arranging to see them again the next morning, supper and bed.

DAY 4: Mariehamn to Degerby – 23.2 nm. Weather – damp to start with, then sunny all day. Light wind Spent the morning doing various domestic chores. Simon and Willie went to visit Kia and Tapsa on their boat, followed by Linda after her sauna, to view charts and plan our passage East to Finland. Anne shopped at the local

supermarket. Linda, Simon and Willie went aboard the Pommern, built on the Clyde in 1903, whilst Anne filled the water tanks and did some cleaning. Left for Degerby, an anchorage on an island to the East, at 12:35. Beautiful day now but very little wind and we had to motor most of the way. Anne used the trip to learn about cardinal marks, of which there are literally thousands (we were told that 65% of the whole world’s aids to navigation in the form of marks, beacons, perches et cetera are in Finland!) Trip was through small flat stony islands, some with summer houses, saunas, or docks, and again little or no wildlife. Sailed for a while in very

light air and eventually started the engine to make port in good time. As we approached Degerby the wind increased. Arrived at 15:30 in sunshine. Like many “guest harbours” as they are called, there was one long pontoon with buoys laid on either side, the idea being to pick up the boy on the way in and moor either bow or stern to. We picked up a buoy to windward of the pontoon and berthed stern first. Went for a walk around the town, and paid a visit to the local bar for a drink. Then back to the boat for “sundowners” and dinner. Anne remarked that since the sun does not set until after 23:00, sundowners tend to go on and on! Dinner of smoked salmon salad and chicken fajitas, followed by another visit to the bar to listen to a “famous band”, which strangely played country music with the lyrics sung in Swedish! Danced a bit and enjoyed conversation with some locals. Back to the boat. A Finnish couple, Mika and Hika, came aboard for a drink. Into bunks shortly after 23:30. Strong wind all night.

DAY 5: Degerby to Kökar –

30.11 nm. Weather – beautiful sunshine but very strong wind at 25 to 30 Knts from the North Departed Degerby at 11:00. The plan was to head South and East

Sunset at Kökar.

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make sure all hatches and windows are securely shut, or you will be munched by the many savage mosquitoes here!

Helsinki Harbour.

DAY 7: Björkö to Verkan, via Aspö – 30.56 nm. Weather: sunny

to Hällsö, one of the several anchorages in the island group of Kökar, recommended by our friends Kia and Tapsa. We first had to head North East to get to a narrow channel going South down through a maze of small islands. Wind now blowing very hard. Considered finding an alternative destination, but after a poll of the crew decided to press on. Sailing under a small part of the Genoa only, making an average speed of over 7 Knts. Tricky passage through the South Channel, paying careful attention to navigation all the way, passing numerous cardinal marks (which are really just painted sticks), and using some of the many leading lines. Scenery described by Anne as breathtaking in a simple Scandinavian way, with islands of pink and grey rock, sometimes topped with trees and shrubs. According to Anne “like a sundae with a fudge sauce on top!” Tied up at around 15:00 after a very fast trip. Ashore for a 3 km walk to the windmill, and the island’s homage to summer – a tall mast-like structure on top of a hill (of which we saw several) which is decorated for midsummer’s night. It was then time for the first annual Finnish mini golf championship – Team USA versus team Haggis (i.e. the lassies against the lads). Played with Ryder Cup like intensity, and embarrassingly resulting in a win for team USA. Repaired to the local restaurant, perched on the highest point on the island, for the losers to buy drinks. Spectacular views. Back to the boat for dinner. Got to know our neighbour, Sebastian, from the next boat on the pontoon, who was cruising on his Swan 40 with his wife and five children, and dog.

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Enjoyed a whisky or two with him. “Bastie”, as he was known, revealed that he owns a share in a cask at the Bruichladdich distillery in Islay, which he visits frequently with his friends and co-owners.

DAY 6: Hällsö to Björkö –

34 nm. Weather – Sunny. Wind 20 – 25 Knts from North Despite a forecast of diminishing wind, the wind continued to blow hard from the North at around 25 Knts. Set off for Björkö, an uninhabited anchorage, again recommended by our friends Kia and Tapsa, at 11:00. Started out with about half of the Genoa, reaching at 7 Knts. Navigation was much easier than the previous day, with the majority of the passage in a much wider channel. Arrived at Björkö at 15:30, having sailed under full sail in less wind for the last part of the trip. Like many other anchorages in the Baltic, this is one where it is usual to moor by dropping a stern anchor, nosing into the rocks, and tying onto trees (no tide at all to contend with). After a couple of attempts we discovered some iron rings on the rocks to which we moored snugly. Spent the afternoon walking over to a freshwater loch which Tapsa had told us about for a swim. Beautiful walk with outstanding views.The girls put the boys to shame by staying in the water for more than the 10 seconds or so which the boys could stand. Back to the boat, to find Bastie and his family entering the anchorage. Helped them to tie up next to us. Following a dinner of chicken and leeks, and a game of liar dice, Bastie came over for a couple of drams. Bunks around 23:00. Public Service Announcement: if planning to stay in Björkö overnight,

in the morning, mostly cloudy in the afternoon – lightish wind from West Set sail for Verkan, on an island to the North, at 08:30. On the way went into a small fishing village on a nearby island called Aspö, where we had been told we could buy all sorts of delicious fish.Visited a beautiful little church, and after a walk around the island, purchased smoked Baltic perch, potatoes and other local vegetables. Had a wonderful breakfast of fish and potatoes in the cockpit, in the sunshine. Then motored North towards Verkan. Arrived in the marina there at 14:35, after negotiating a very narrow and shallow passage inside some islands – took it very slowly, as we were not sure we could get through without going aground.Verkan is a nice guest marina located over 1 km from the town. After checking in at the marina, the crew took a walk to the town for some provisions and sightseeing.Then, after an extremely good dinner at the restaurant in the marina, back to the boat for drams and bed.

DAY 8: Verkan to Benskar via Stenskar – 44.3 nm. Weather –

mostly sunny, but with some clouds, wind North-West backing SouthWest 10 to 12 Knts Set sail from Verkan at 08:00, to sail to Benskar, an uninhabited island to the South, with a stop at an island on the way called Stenskar, to buy more fish. Anne was appointed navigator for the day and very successfully negotiated the slalom like route through numerous North, South, East and West cardinal marks, rocks and islands, making good use of leading lines (of which there are many in the Finnish archipelago). No place to tie up in Stenskar, since all the pontoons were full and the mail boat was expected at the pier imminently. Put two of the crew ashore to buy some more smoked perch, fresh perch and pickled herring, and then pressed on South, arriving at Benskar at 18:00. Moored up to the rocks with the stern anchor

out, then cocktails in the cockpit, and dinner of fresh perch and the delicious local potatoes. During dinner the wind got up and the angle was such that we decided to untie and anchor off between North and South Benskar. This was the only time we anchored during the whole trip. Peaceful night.

DAY 9: Benskar to Helsingholm – 7.5 nm Weather –

partly sunny/partly cloudy. No wind After a very long sail the day before, we decided that a leisurely morning and a short hop to the island of Helsingholm would be just the thing. It took ages to get the anchor lifted and stowed, due to the very thick and smelly mud (Anne thought it could be packaged and sold in high-end beauty stores in the USA for a lot of money!). Departed at 11:00, and motored the whole way, arriving at 12:00. Went to the local shop to buy freshly hot smoked salmon, with garlic and chilli, for lunch, and ordered fresh rolls for the morning. Willie booked the crew in for a sauna on the far side of the island for the following morning – another one of Tapsa’s

challenges ticked off. After lunch Simon, Linda and Anne had a long walk round the island, at one point being attacked by so many ants that the path through the woods looked as though it was moving. We were being bitten so hard on the ankles that we started to run, until we came across a number of snakes on and beside the path. Simon assured the others that the snakes, which were plain black in colour, were completely harmless, but we later learned that they were adders. Back to the boat for a cup of tea, soon followed by sundowners and dinner. We entertained a local to a few drams of Jura malt, before he went for a sauna with his family. In bunks by midnight.

DAY 10: Helsingholm to Taallintehdas – 28 nm. Weather

– overcast, but some sun. Wind 8 to 12 Knts from South Began the day like all visitors to Helsingholm should – freshly baked scone-like rolls from the shop for breakfast in the cockpit, in shorts and T-shirts, followed by probably the best sauna in all of Finland. It was on the other side of the island from

the anchorage, wood burning, and there was a wooden ladder up the rocks to help you out of the sea after your refreshing post sauna swim. The sauna was at about 100°C, burning away when we arrived. We had several sessions in the sauna followed by swims in the sea during our hour. The only requirement was to restock the wood basket in the sauna from the nearby woodpile, to stoke up the fire for the next bathers. Set sail at 11:15, and had a wonderful sail through the more inhabited islands close to the mainland, to our final destination at Taalintehdas, an interesting little town with ancient ironworks. Arrived at 16:00. Final cruise and dinner in the local restaurant. The following morning we caught the bus to Helsinki where we did some sightseeing and had a great night out, with a dinner of traditional Finnish fare, before flying home the next day. A wonderful holiday all round.

By Simon Pender, Bella Nova

Baltic breakfast in Aspö.

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Texa Holland

New from

Scotland

– the long way round North Sea crew at Inverness.

Texa – Maxi 1300 built in Sweden in 2008

Crew on stages (in addition to myself, John Watson):

Length overall – 13.1 m

1 Bruinisse to Amsterdam – Fiona Watson, Drew Fulton, Lars M.

Beam – 3.8 m

2 Amsterdam to Kiel Germany – Alastair Watson, Tony Peters, Lars M.

Depth – 2.3 m

3 Kiel to Copenhagen – Alastair Watson, Tony Peters.

Mast height 20.3 m

4 Copenhagen to Copenhagen – Alastair Watson, Duncan Cunningham.

Total Distance sailed 1665 nm

5 Copenhagen to Tjome Island, Oslo Fjord – Fiona Watson, John Hardie, Frances Hardie.

Departure from Bruinisse Holland – Wednesday 24 June. Arrival Craobh – Sunday 6 September

6 Tjome to Mandal, SW Norway – Fiona Watson, Hugh Normand, Carolyn Normand. 7 Mandal to Inverness – Tony Peters, Jimmy Cochrane, Andy Boal, John Ferguson. 8 Inverness to Craobh – Hugh Normand, Johnnie Readman.

ur Elan 40 was sold in April and suddenly we found ourselves boatless. Fortunately I had been looking to see what was available on the market for some time and eventually found our new boat a 42ft Maxi 1300 in Holland at Bruinisse Marina South of Rotterdam and roughly on the same latitude as London.To cut a long story short we bought the boat after having a survey done and this and our own visits indicated she was in excellent condition, little used and with only 49 hrs run on the Volvo 55 hp diesel engine. However there are some minor issues; some we have addressed and some that can wait until this winter. By mid-June the new Texa was ready leave on her voyage to Scotland. We had a choice to make i.e. whether to sail to Scotland via Lands End or up the East Coast of England and down through the Caledonian Canal.There was a third choice however which we gladly settled upon which was to head North and East into the West side of the Baltic, then Denmark, South West Sweden and South East Norway eventually coming across the North

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Sea to Scotland. I had always wondered about sailing in the Nordic countries and this was the ideal opportunity and one we will never regret taking. Fortunately crew materialised within hours of sending round an email to folk we knew could be interested – that was fantastic and given the experience of those involved it took a lot of weight off my mind. I had decided to do the trip in stages to coincide with crew changes but with a few gaps in between not just to catch up at home but to leave time if required for any repairs or damage incurred along the way. Now for the voyage itself but first to say that I have precised our story cutting out much of the detail and concentrating on the more interesting and relevant stories as well as passing on some experiences which could be helpful to others.

Stage 1 – Bruinisse to Amsterdam – 98 nm Holland has a huge canal system, which takes some very substantial commercial barges and ships around the country and it is widely used by yachts too.Very important for us there

are several ‘mast up’ routes – our mast is just over 20 metres tall and we could not have contemplated the canals otherwise.There were several different routes to take us to Amsterdam but not speaking the language or knowing the canal system, Marco the broker at House of Yachts at Bruinisse Marina (very good marina it is too!) found us an experienced young local crew who knew the canals and so Lars M joined us to crew and provide local knowledge until Texa reached Kiel in Germany. We cast off on Wednesday 24 June just after 09:00 in beautiful sunny weather and made our way the short distance to our first lock where we were joined by another dozen or so yachts mostly similar in size to our own. The lock was very much easier than Crinan Canal (our only previous canal experience) with recesses at different heights in the lock wall for cleats easily reached from the deck of a boat. Additionally there was only a relatively slow and small rise in height (about five feet) little turbulence and loads of room all round.We then made our way to the next lock – however on checking we found it couldn’t accommodate

Gothenburg.

Vim (left) and Vanity V.

our mast height so a quick about turn and off we went in a slightly different direction to another huge lock.Then came our first experience with giant commercial barges (of about 3000 tons or even more) which are everywhere in Holland – many with cars sitting on the stern, and often with flower boxes or tubs too! The canal system is very well run and all users are expected to waste little time going in and tying up or leaving. However, the operators do occasionally stop for lunch and close overnight too but not all at the same time so it is important to know when this is happening.There are huge lifting bridges of amazing designs and some are swing bridges. Sometimes both road (maybe motorway) and railway bridges need to be moved at the same time while occasionally the canal runs over motorway built below. Not surprisingly the waterways don’t want to hold up road and rail traffic any longer than can possibly be avoided. Accordingly boats may have a considerable wait at rush hour when there can be longer gaps between locking times. Unlike Scotland however the rise and fall is low between different points in the canal so in fact there are not many locks at all. Steadily we moved through the canals with row upon row, mile upon mile of beautifully kept houses but some big industrial areas too. Sometimes the

canal was maybe 30 ft or more above land level simply because Holland is so far below sea level.What a flat country Holland is! Not at all what we are used to. Going through Rotterdam we came across a billionaire’s new dark blue, two masted schooner being fitted out and near completion – it was enormous and its name was secret of course! Eventually we reached Dordrecht and turned off into a smaller canal in the town. I was concerned at our speed and suggested Lars (who was steering) slowed down as the echo sounder showed that the depth was running out on us.Too late – 15 seconds later we were stuck in the mud. Lars then proceeded to make the boat ‘dance’ several times back and forward in the mud with the engine alternately hard in forward then reverse to create depth to extricate the boat. Fortunately it worked but I have to say I was more than a little concerned at the violent nature of the boat’s ‘dancing’! We ate on board while on the move and eventually tied up at 00:30 at Alphen getting to bed after 01:00. Next morning we chilled out and did some shopping and coffee drinking but decided to be on the move by 10:30 as we still had a long way to go with a few locks and many bridges before reaching Amsterdam.We were doing well and our time was good however suddenly at about 6 Knts we ran aground hard on a shingle bank near a junction with a tributary canal. Again Lars was in charge and he was slightly further on the port hand side than I expected but suddenly it was too late to say anything and we were aground! On reaching Amsterdam however a highly experienced diver had been found and checked Texa’s keel and hull to find absolutely nothing bad at all but the antifouling had been scuffed off the front of the keel. On we went through the canal system, more tidy towns, beautiful villages, well-kept houses (many with small boats at docks either tied up afloat or lifted up on frames), and bicycles everywhere.Tiny yellow ferries crossed the canal at regular intervals with space only for a few people, their bikes and perhaps room for one car too. More factories, polder with farm animals, more locks and bridges and our schedule was back up to time. After a number of locks and challenging

manoeuvres we eventually came to the last motorway bridge barring our way through into Amsterdam’s shipping lanes and docks.We arrived a good 15 minutes before the last lift for the night. We waited and waited and waited but nothing happened. Eventually Lars to his great credit managed to phone someone relatively senior in the echelons of management in the lock system. It turned out that the allotted lock keeper had simply forgotten to operate the last lift – but he had been sent on his way to make sure it happened soon even though about 90 minutes later than scheduled. At last we got through along with another 15 or so boats and made our way to Amsterdam and Six Havn Marina which was very handily placed. A four minute walk away in each direction were different piers with the ferries leaving every ten minutes for the pier at hugely busy Amsterdam Central Station.The ferry crossing took only three minutes. With stage one over Fiona and Drew flew off home on Sunday two days after we arrived while son Alastair and Tony Peters joined up along with Lars for the next stage to Kiel.We had a meal in the

Texa at Mandal.

Approaching Marstrand.

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city that evening and a walk about town – crowds of people and hundreds of busy party boats (sometimes very noisy) on the canal – one was being skippered that evening by young Lars! I headed back to Texa about 23:30 leaving Tony and Ally to have a night out together – not returning until 03:00 after spending time going in the wrong direction on the wrong ferry!

Tonsberg.

Stage 2 – Amsterdam to Kiel, Germany – 316 nm It was arranged that Lars would join the rest of us aboard Texa at Sixhavn on Monday morning between 08:30 and 09:00 to make a start to the next leg – except he failed to turn up! I did realise that we did need his knowledge and experience to go out from Makkum (the last lock out into the North Sea) through the sandbanks to the Frisian Island of Terschelling and the subsequent overnight leg to the River Elbe and Brunsbuttel where we were to lock up into the Kiel Canal. At 10:30 he eventually answered the phone and it was arranged he would get a train to the town of Enkhuisen where we would pass through a lock ETA 13:30. And so there he was waiting for Texa as arranged and he jumped aboard in very apologetic manner. After the canals it was good to be out in the open waters of the Markermeer and Ijsselmeer where we saw amazingly large numbers of the now very old traditional sailing barges. Both are incredibly shallow (three – five metres mostly) and need some care although channels are well marked. Flat water and no wind though the odd shower and so the engine purred on out to Makkum where we finally locked out into the North Sea. On again out past Harlingen twisting and turning through well marked shallow channels (sometimes very confusing on the charts) towards the Frisian Islands. Given our delayed departure we had another late arrival in the marina of West Terschelling at 21:00 but after a quick pasta meal it was off for a night cap before bedtime. We left the excellent marina at 09:00 and headed off for the Elbe in another flat calm.We put up the mainsail to dampen the boat’s movement in the occasional swell rather than with expectation of worthwhile wind.The latter never appeared but that made

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West Terschelling.

for an easy overnight passage past the Emden and Bremerhaven estuaries with busy shipping lanes.The tide was with us for what seemed a very long time and we made excellent progress to Scharhorn Island and the entrance to the Elbe where the tide turned strongly against us giving a very slow passage North to Brunsbuttel where we entered the Kiel Canal. For a good few hours we were only doing 3 – 4 Knts instead of the normal 7.2 Knts but we were lucky to arrive at 11:00 just in time to go straight into the lock which was soon closed behind us.This was the first of only two locks in the canal i.e. one up on the way in and one out at Kiel. Then followed 60 nms of what is a real ship canal (up to 3500 tons or more) and we met lots of them. Unlike Holland, here yachts were relatively small in numbers and the commercial ships do hold complete sway. Mostly well-tended luscious canal banking on each side often obscured any farther view but in time there were villages and towns. All went really well until we arrived at Kiel but then without any warning or advice (to tie up) we were left hanging around with promises of a lock soon. Streams of ships came and filled the lock time after time but often leaving good spaces, which the Dutch would fill up with yachts. Not here though and after an extremely frustrating three and a half hours wait we locked out with about another twenty yachts and turned North for the

British Kiel Yacht Club where we had our first experience with box moorings fortunately aided by a flat calm. A box mooring is where there are no pontoons and the bow or stern is moored on to the walkway and the boat is secured with ropes to wooden or plastic poles (fixed in the seabed but flexible rather than solid) one each side of the boat at the outer end.This is possible as there is little or no tidal range in the Baltic and all of Denmark and the SE coast of Sweden. Many old marinas are completely full of these moorings and lying alongside is not always available. One major benefit of the box mooring is that in high winds boats, if tied up properly, are clear of anything pressing against the top sides i.e.much less friction than pontoons or quays. The British Kiel Yacht Club is a true British outpost but the Club, its land and its marina are due to be handed back to the German government in 2016 so little upgrading has been done in recent years to the clubhouse or facilities. In the morning some shopping was required so off went Tony and Ally while I stayed to catch up with a few boat jobs. I expected to see the others before lunchtime when Lars finally left for home but it was nearly 14:00 before they trudged aboard – they had taken the wrong bus this time! And with heavy bags they had spent a very long time walking too.What a pair!

Stage 3 – Kiel to Copenhagen – 286 nm I had wanted to take as direct a route as we could to Copenhagen on the island of Sjaelland but there was a very strong (F5-7) North North East wind from just where we wanted to head which was due to last at least 48 hrs. Leaving in mid-afternoon I opted to head North West instead and we found our way to the beautiful town of Sonderberg (on the island of Als) and its marina. Here we needed to find a vacant box mooring (clearly marked on the dock with a green – as opposed to a red – rectangle).The fact the wind was now over 30 Knts made life difficult for us novices and three times we found ourselves trying in vain to get into berths too small for our beam. Larger berths were very scarce but eventually a helpful crew of a large XP43 told us to use a berth marked red but where

the owner was away – and what’s more they very kindly helped us tie up at last – over two hours after entering the marina! Off we went to find a restaurant in the town and found one right beside the town quay where we could easily have tied up instead! A beautiful sunset too. The food was excellent and with Tony’s stories in full flow we had a lot of laughs to make up for earlier frustrations. After a short morning of shoreside activities including paying for berthing via electronic machine and a leisurely bike ride we left to catch the 11:00 bridge opening to head North West through the lovely Als Sund then Fjord. It was another beautiful day with the winds strong from the NE and once we were clear of the narrow Sund the sails went up.We had a cracking sail all the way to Middelfart home of the Melges 24 World Championships – 80 or more boats having just finished for the day were streaming across our path. The wind went ahead and became even stronger. Sails taken in and engine fired up and we made our way under the huge bridge at Fredericia. By then the wind was so strong I began to wonder if we were sensible to continue to our intended destination of Bogense. After a call to the harbourmaster at Bogense I was assured it was localised and advised to carry on arriving there to tie up (alongside!) just after 21:00 in time for a meal and another beautiful sunset. As our route was taking us rather a long way from the most direct line to Copenhagen another early start was needed so we left promptly at 08:00 having paid our mooring fee again at the handy electronic machine.There was a little wind which gradually built to give us a good sail fetching NE until reaching the Island of Samso where it faded and the engine went back on for the rest of that sunny day.Then keeping clear of the shipping channels we made our way to the convenient narrow but well buoyed passage of Sjaellands Rev which saved us a good six miles on our way to Hundested which sits on the East side of the entrance to the Isefjord.This is a large old fishing port with several harbours and boatyards and again we tied up alongside the quay but outside a Nauticat 43.The place was absolutely mobbed as it was beer festival weekend with several marquees with

different bands and many fair attractions. I did not go to the town but Texa’s late night revellers said it was just great fun. We set off sharp in the morning with breakfast as usual on the way, another flat calm but the day developed to be hot and sunny. Passing Gilleleje and Helsingor we made our way South to a small but very old marina at the very North of Copenhagen where Texa was booked in for some minor alterations. Jacob Jensen’s yard was quite small and well operated by Graham Sands and recommended by Clive Scott (Paloma and ex CCC Commodore). A trip across the short mile or so to Tuborghavn to fill up with diesel acquainted us with the excellent facilities there owned and run by the Royal Danish Yacht Club – the fuel was self-service which was we found later in other places to be very useful when out of normal hours. After all our travels Texa needed a good clean up and this was done before we headed into Copenhagen for a walk round the city and to visit its canals. It seemed to be a much cleaner and tidier city than Amsterdam but while there was a good number of striking Nevlungen.

Lilla Bommen Marina Gothenburg.

buildings many streets were quite bland in appearance. After supper on Saturday evening and after much cajoling to go Tony took a bus to the airport with not much time to spare.

Stage 4 – Copenhagen to Copenhagen – 44.5 nm On Sunday early afternoon Duncan arrived and plans were discussed for the next few days but first thing on Monday a radio which had been ordered the previous week was due to arrive and be fitted by lunchtime – after waiting most of the day the radio failed to turn up and it did not do so until the following Thursday! However we headed off late afternoon and went over to Tuborghavn and enjoyed an excellent meal in the restaurant there with Texa tied up alongside immediately through the window on a beautiful evening. This was meant to be a gentle cruise in good weather to visit some of the towns and villages in Denmark and nearby Sweden within easy reach of Copenhagen but the weather had other ideas! On Tuesday morning with a very bad forecast for the next few days we looked at the charts to find a marina with preferably moorings alongside where we would be safe in the expected gale.We chose Rungsted another large marina just six miles North which also had an association with the RDYC as Duncan had raced Dragons there some years previously. It turned out that the RDYC presence was minimal and its old clubhouse had been transformed into a posh restaurant. Dinner aboard then a nightcap ashore in the posh restaurant – with no Scotch Whisky either blend or malt to be seen! A day lost to wind and rain was replaced with a visit to the superb Maritime Museum in Heksingor.We concluded it was a huge shame that Glasgow did not have a similar good sized maritime museum considering the huge part played over centuries by Glasgow and Scotland in British shipping and shipbuilding particularly during the two great wars. The following day we had bright sunshine but the wind was still very strong so we stayed put another day catching up with boat jobs etc. However we were promised by the forecast that on Friday the wind would drop away during the morning – that failed to

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happen but we were sure it would that afternoon. Our attempt failed and with 30+Knts of breeze we bailed out and headed back to Tuborghavn as I was not keen to end up on Malmo’s lee shore in case problems arose. At least we knew we would be made very welcome again and that was so. During the bad weather we were occasionally disturbed by photos sent of the beautiful weather being enjoyed by Simon Pender and Willy Paisley who with there wives Linda and Anne were enjoying beautiful sunny weather cruising between Stockholm and Finland – Duncan was green with envy! Fortunately at last our weather improved and on the Saturday we had a complete calm and warm sunshine.We decided to do a tour of Copenhagen’s islands and then go up into the thronging waterways of the city itself – very worthwhile it was too and there was much to see from ancient submarines, beautiful yachts to the Opera House and all the tributary canals some leading to marinas.We did see the famous mermaid sitting on her rock beside the waterway and it was surrounded literally by hundreds of people – we were extremely pleased to be viewing from Texa! It was a very good trip to end our week. Our last night was again in Tuborghavn then Duncan disappeared early next morning for his flight home while I waited for Ally to return from an unscheduled stay overnight in the city with one of his Chamonix friends. Together we took Texa back to the marina berth at Jacob Jensens yard and on the way worked out very carefully how we should get into the box mooring. Low and behold everything went like clockwork and far better than at any other time with bigger crew numbers! That evening we left the boat for a week to catch up at home and to allow some minor jobs to be done by the yard including the radio installation.

Stage 5 – Copenhagen to the island of Tjome, Oslo Fjord – 303 nm The Hardies and the Watsons arrived aboard Texa at her berth and the jobs had all been done by the yard so we set off again for Tuborghavn where dinner was booked.The weather was warm and sunny but quite a lot of

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wind had appeared again in forecasts. Next day we set off and sailed briskly up to Helsingor but as the wind came ahead we put the engine on till we arrived at 20:00 at Gilleleja situated at the very Northern point of Sjaelland. This was a beautiful ancient fishing village with a large harbour with several basins and it came as a bit of a shock that the harbour was completely mobbed by boats of all sizes since now in mid-July it was the Denmark’s main holiday period.We looked around and suddenly saw someone waving, ushering us into a berth alongside a large X50 – we were amazed it turned out to be Clive Scott.We tied up but briefly as one of the other four or five boats inside complained that he didn’t want our extra weight and so regretfully we moved off but we were assured (by another yacht skipper) we would find a Hallberg Rassy 42 to tie up alongside just round the next corner – unfortunately it turned out to be a 342 much smaller and in a very tight spot indeed but with the help of our bow thruster (a complete novelty for me) we made it. Next morning after a good walk through the village with its thatched roofs and a coffee it was time to head off North to Anholt some 44 nm away with a bit of motoring then a good breeze most of the way. A lovely island and a good staging post for us on our way to Sweden but again it was absolutely mobbed and it was difficult to

find somewhere to berth. As the forecast was for stronger winds eventually we put our anchor out (for the first time with our new heavier chain) and rafted up against four other yachts. Again we were warmly welcomed and the Swedish couple next door came aboard for drinks and to help us plan where we should go to over the days ahead. In the morning the sun shone but the wind was at least 25/30 Knts however with a long way to go and with a slight lull in the wind we set off for our next island, Laeso just over 40 nm away. Fortunately the wind was about 5 to 8 degrees off close hauled and we made excellent progress but the wind increased to 33/34 Knts and the seas had built up and were now quite lumpy. Unfortunately, about 15 nm out Fiona began to feel unwell and sadly remained that way for the next couple of hours until we came level with the Northeast corner of Laeso where we took the sails in and motored into Osterby Harbour which was much quieter with boats than we expected (probably since it was much more remote). Again it was close to 20:00 and still blowing well over 30 Knts and after looking around for an alongside berth once more we rafted up against a Hallberg Rassy though now a better sized 42. Arriving with a soft but pronounced bump again the Hallberg Rassy owner and his wife immediately jumped up from below – again they could not have been more welcoming. Another quick walk round the village in the morning and then in much lighter winds and some sloppy seas we set off for Gothenburg under engine the whole way.We arrived at Langedrag Marina where there is a base for the Royal Swedish YC and another good welcome. However there was another weather front on the way with gale force winds and torrential rain which kept us tied up for three nights which meant fewer and longer legs to achieve our target destination of Tjome. Nevertheless the upside was that it gave us time to see more of Gothenburg, which is a really beautiful and interesting city – travel to town was easy by tram. The first day we got soaked and ended up in a thronging shopping mall to dry out and it was still pouring by the time we returned to Texa. An excellent meal was had in the RSYC restaurant where we found ourselves sitting under a flag

from the Clyde’s RNCYC – what a coincidence though the two clubs have many connections especially from the Dragon and Int. 8 metre classes.There was also a board with a roll of honour showing all the club members who had won European,World or Olympic medals – there we saw the name of Pelle Peterson Texa’s designer who won Star Class gold medals in two Olympics. Next day was at least dry and we returned to the town again with a visit to the fish market but the real highlight was the beautiful Museum of Art, filled with many masterpieces, classical and modern. At last by Monday morning the wind had cooled off and we set off early to see how far North we could get taking the route inside the barren pink hued islands of the Swedish South West coast.There were huge numbers of islands, many narrow passages and corners added to which the well marked channels were filled with masses of yachts big and small and the majority were motor yachts often under Norwegian flag – still very much holiday high season. We stopped briefly at beautiful Marstrand where we looked unsuccessfully for camping gas and met up with two beautiful Int. 12 metres the famous US boat Vim and the beautiful 1931 Fife built Vanity V – the latter was just gleaming.They were heading to the next of several events for Int. 12 metres, which form a Nordic circuit. Soon we pushed off and I reckoned that if luck held we could and did make it to the old fishing village of Smogen, which like Marstrand is a mecca for both tourists and yachts.We were amazed at the islands but concerned at the traffic and the narrow channels. Smogen is just a beautiful little harbour but has good depth for larger yachts and with its upmarket shops and good restaurants it’s no wonder it is a tourist hotspot. As usual we had a good walk round but failed again to find a source of camping gas which was beginning to become a concern. Vim and Vanity V had also turned up and were attracting great interest from passers-by. It had been a dull and damp time in Sweden and so it continued with regular showers as we set off again this time aiming for the ferry town of Stromstad and our last night in Sweden.

More islands, narrow channels and small villages often with beautiful wooden houses and some stunningly well-kept boats of all ages. One point which we had not really appreciated was the lack of trees on the Swedish islands but the nearer we reached Stromstad and of course Norway the more we saw pine and other trees cloaking the landscape. Apparently huge numbers of trees were taken for building boats and ships throughout the centuries and often most were not replanted.This affected many islands and the Danish will tell you that when the country was governed by the Swedes trees were removed in huge volume from some of their islands leaving them completely bare (e.g. Laeso). Stromstad was a big ferry town and the yacht harbour was large and well serviced with restaurants and shops including a substantial chandlers where we not only paid for the berth but at last managed to buy a cylinder of camping gas. Being our last stop in Sweden this was to prove even more important than we then thought. The following morning we cast off for Norway and as we were doing so the rain started again and so it continued unabated all day until we went to bed that night at a marina in the town of Tonsberg just to the North of the island of Tjome.We had been under engine since leaving Laeso and all the way through the Swedish islands and with little wind again we continued that way all the way across what was the South end of Oslo Fjord (we did not Flakfort Island Copenhagen.

Tvedstrand.

take Texa up the additional 40 miles to the capital city). But we had arrived in beautiful Norway and next day the sun shone brightly and the countryside looked magnificent.We could not stay in Tonsberg Marina as it was hosting a big competition for seriously fast powerboats over the weekend but we were very happy to escape the noise and rabble and make our way down the lovely West Coast of Tjome to a mooring off the home of our friends Petter and Kirsty (nee Arbuthnot) Roed.There we received superb hospitality accepting an invite for dinner that evening with the Roed family. Petter also organised an ideal wooden berth in a small marina just five minutes walk away where we left Texa for a few days back home.

Stage 6 – Tjome to Mandal – 165 nm Fiona and I returned to Tjome to join up with Kirsty’s sister Carolyn and her very handy husband Hugh Normand who had come out a few days earlier and they came aboard Texa for the leg down to Mandal. In our absence Hugh and Petter had spent time doing some minor repairs on Texa, which was very much appreciated indeed.We left the following morning in beautiful weather and headed South and then West for Stavern an historic town with good berthing and eateries etc. On the way we passed South of Sandefjord and in the distance we spotted five Int. 12 metres racing in the mouth of the fjord no doubt including Vim and Vanity V – what a sight! By the time we reached Stavern it was blowing hard but under a bright blue sky.We arrived alongside a yacht with the usual bump right beside the owner’s wife who was sunbathing eyes closed in the cockpit and she immediately stood up with a startle – we did apologise though she may not have understood! Stavern was an important naval base for a few centuries and was taken over and used by the Germans in the war and is now a town with museums and art galleries. Next morning we went on the short distance to the tiny fishing port of Nevlungen where we tied up for some exploring and lunch.The harbour was tiny but it is well known for its fish restaurants and old buildings.Then we really started to get into the Norwegian islands keeping

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to the well marked channels which kept us away from seemingly millions of rocks.The first real test of our navigation and nerves was the sound between Langoy and Gumoy nearly three miles long and extremely narrow in places. It was on down to Kragero supposedly the Nice of Norway’s Riviera but unlike our time in Sweden suddenly here the high season for holidays was past and everywhere was now extremely quiet both in the marina and in the town. It was still a nice place to be though and the weather remained fine. Everywhere the islands were covered with well-kept homes, many with small motor boats tied alongside small jetties and high garden poles flying the customary long triangular version of the Norwegian flag. Apparently these can be flown all the time even if the owner is away – the rectangular version only being flown when the owner is in residence. Of course the islands provide great shelter from what can be a very angry North Sea but occasionally we had to go out into the open (e.g. if a low bridge closed off the route) and that is what we did on the way down to Risor. As the Easterly wind had been blowing strongly for some time there was quite a sea running but with the sails out we made a good fast passage until we could turn again back in behind island cover. Normally inside the islands it was too narrow for sailing so the engine was still in use even though the wind was strong.We found the tiny anchorage of Bommen (accessed by a narrow passage) just East of the busy town of Risor and put the anchor down for only the second time since Holland and had a peaceful lunch and no rush. How nice that was too since previously we rarely had time to do anything other than keep pressing on with our long daily passages. In the afternoon we motored down through more sounds and islands finding the famous and much anticipated UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lyngor.We tied up on the small pontoons alongside the restaurant where we hoped to eat that evening and paid for our berth in the old sailmakers shop immediately above. However disappointment was in store – as the restaurant was closed and the owners were away on their two week cruise on their boat. In Scotland we think we have a lot of islands and rocks but both Sweden

RDYC Tuborghavn.

Langedrag Marina.

Grimstad.

and Norway have thousands and thousands, so many that it is difficult to comprehend how they could possibly have their channels so well marked.That is almost certainly a direct consequence of just how many people must have drowned, shipwrecked in centuries past when navigation was a REAL challenge – no electronics or radios in those days.Thank goodness our Navionics charts on the chartplotter and iPad were amazingly accurate too. I could continue for some time about all the passages, sounds, rocks and towns that we visited but suffice to say this must be one of the most beautiful places in the world to cruise. In short, we motored or sailed to overnight stays at Tvedstrand (famous for its second hand book shops) at the top of its fjord, then Grimstad and then on past Arendal to Lillesand and eventually Kristiansand where we stopped for two nights as another gale and heavy rain came through. On the way we had a couple of incidents firstly we managed to catch a cable with our anchor in a bay just short of Lillesand – miraculously the anchor freed itself on the first drop back down but we found that the spindle of the anchor winch was bent rendering it unsusable.We then recovered the anchor much more easily than I expected having worked out how to do it with one of powered genoa winches.Then secondly while sailing offshore in the big Easterly on

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a broad reach nearing Kristiansand we took a very large breaking wave badly and for the first time took a big lump of water into the cockpit – we all got a bit wet but no harm done. By Kristiansand we were getting extremely worried about not having found any new camping gas as the current bottle was now only about half full and there was a North Sea crossing in the relatively near future. Quite simply Norway does not have camping gas cylinders as we know them but a different design of cylinder and different sizes of attachments. Hugh and I spent literally hours and much shoe leather looking around Kristiansand and subsequently Mandal for appropriate fittings to allow Texa to use the cylinder we had just bought – we got close but not close enough.That meant we had to be even more careful with the gas aboard and we used as little as possible – more eating ashore and a barbecue under the cover of a fish market roof in Mandal as the rain poured down (one of the best meals of all!). We were glad we went on the extra twenty miles to Mandal as the town was much friendlier than the much bigger and more commercial ferry port of Kristiansand.The old town is stunning and now a pedestrian precinct with bars and restaurants and there are good supermarkets and shops too.The visitors’ marina was very quiet but we did meet the ‘only Icelandic member of the Ocean Cruising Club’ in his Victoria 34. The strong Easterlies had piped up again and gusts of 35/40 Knts came down the river – there were several yachts in the marina whose return to Oslo from Norway’s West Coast had been delayed for days. As it was off season but much to my surprise Mandal’s berthing fee was reduced on 16 August from 360 Nk to 150 Nk.

Stage 7 – Mandal to Inverness – 386 nm Mandal is the last real town on the South East coast of Norway before the point at Lindesnes and wide open North Sea to the West. Kristiansand Airport was a bus ride away and four experienced crew arrived at Texa just as I was walking back from dinner. I could not have been more lucky in having such a good bunch of guys all well experienced and bringing some good jokes as well

as important special talents to the boat i.e. making up for my poor knowledge particularly of electrics, electronics and engines. At last Andy very quickly managed to connect the new radio to the chart plotter so it would now receive our position co-ordinates should we ever need to hit the VHF distress button. The next day the Easterly gusts became stronger again all morning so I decided to delay our departure until after a very good lunch eventually casting off at 15:30. The wind was at least in a very good direction (East North East) and it was beautifully sunny. I called the Norwegian coastguard to let him know of our voyage and he took it very seriously asking for lots of particulars about the boat and crew, which at the same time was both comforting and a little disconcerting.The sails were rolled out even before we cleared the islands and we headed a little to the South to give a more comfortable direction to the wind and by now large seas.The wind was forecast to be slightly lighter to the South too – and so it proved as some 50 nm offshore as the Norwegian Coast disappeared from sight the wind took off and in a very uncomfortable sea we put the engine on. Not for long though as a strong wind came in very quickly from the South East and from there until Kinnaird Head near Fraserburgh the wind blew between 18 and 35 Knts. The electric in-mast reefing was well tested and passed with flying colours. Quite honestly in spite of a few anxious moments we were very lucky indeed and had a fabulous fast sail averaging 7.5 Knts for the 385 miles to Inverness.The first night out was cloudless and without moon but we had a magnificent carpet of stars above us with the odd aeroplane and a few shooting stars.The second night the sky was full of cloud with rain threatening and extremely dark. Although the wind instruments indicated the wind speed was lower than the previous night it felt much windier and less comfortable in the seas. As promised roughly half way across we called Stavanger Radio to let them know that all was fine and received a very quick response. It sounded as though they were much closer to us than they really were. AIS worked brilliantly as usual warning us of traffic but for many hours we saw

absolutely no ships or yachts at all and it was almost comforting to come across the huge rigs of the Forties oilfield – perhaps other folk were keeping a watchful eye on us after all. As we approached Kinnaird Head the wind fell light briefly but coming up from sleeping below to see what was going on I could not help being struck by the sight of huge irregular waves but basically flat water still coming up behind the boat – not just strange but in a weird way rather ominous too. Anyway on went the engine for a short while before the next blast of strong wind came in from the South. As we made our way along the very lengthy coastline to Inverness the wind became more ahead and the engine then took us most of the last 40 miles into Inverness. I decided it was time to try and speak to the lock-keeper at the Caledonian Canal entrance at Clachnaharry and after some fruitless attempts I was very surprised to hear a voice I knew well. It was Mike Johnston of Arran Comrades to let me know the last lock into the canal would be at 17:30 – the lock he would be coming out of on his way East to cruise. We missed it by 30 minutes and tied up instead in the Inverness Marina close by. As the seas all the way across had been large and so uncomfortable, cooking a meal had been quite impossible though we just managed to make hot soup but pouring it into the mugs was a huge challenge. So John Ferguson cooked us a great meal using up lots of the food aboard and we left Texa the next morning for home.

Stage 8 – Inverness to Craobh – 121 nm Given the tide times we needed to be into the Clachnaharry lock at 08:30 and we only just made it thanks to very prompt and efficient work done by the lock-keepers who picked up our VHF call – ten minutes later we would have been too late with the next lift not due till 11:00.That began a great trip through the Caledonian Canal, something I had never done and was looking forward to as were Hugh and Johnnie who came to help.The weather was cool but dry and often sunny and with the expert help of the lockkeepers we made very good progress. We spent the night above Fort Augustus just before Cullochy Lock and left in the first locking in the morning. Sooner than expected we arrived at the top of the Devil’s Staircase which we descended remarkably quickly with the lock-keepers co-ordinating everything superbly.We knew the tide might cause us a problem and with the Lord of the Isles coming in at Corpach it became apparent that there would not be another lock out that afternoon but we were very relaxed about that.We locked out to a flat calm and proceeded up Loch Linnhe called into Loch A Choire and then in a stiff breeze sailed for Dunstaffnage to spend the night. A quick motor down through Kerrera and then Cuan Sound and soon we made it to Craobh where we enjoyed the boat for another month in the unusually good weather. Quite simply of all three canals on our long journey from Holland the Caledonian Canal has by far the best scenery and possibly the best management too. I would recommend it thoroughly to anyone who hasn’t been there already. At last Texa was now in her new home waters but we had enjoyed an amazing voyage in her during the 1665 nm since leaving Holland.There was no doubt we made the right decision in heading for the Kiel Canal and the Nordic countries. Texa made it through Crinan Canal her fourth and by far the shortest canal of the season. Now Texa is laid up under cover and there are a few jobs to do over the winter – where shall we sail to in 2016?

By John Watson, Texa

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David Rombach’s Lola at the Tomatin Trophy Series off Tobermory in July 1976.

At the Douarnenez Classic Boat Festival in 2004.

Happy th Birthday

90Lola |

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eil and I were privileged to own Lola, from 1982 until 1989. She is an elegant 40 ft wooden Bermudan ketch that can still turn heads at 90 years of age. We first saw Lola at the end of a long weekend seeing boats in Littlehampton, Chichester and the Kyles of Bute. Davie Rombach boomed his welcome to come on board and we both fell instantly in love with her. After Trebor (a Clyde 19 / 24 without toilet or engine ), Lola was luxurious with cushioned settees, deck hatches, loo, working engine and room to move on deck. Davie regaled us with stories of racing and cruising on Lola and the great times on her. He advised us that she was great in light winds as her momentum would let her glide from one zephyr to the next! Our first offshore race in 1983 was round the DZ buoy off the Heads of Ayr. It was a wild night beating into a gale but we felt confident that Lola was looking after us even if it got a little wet inside. On another race to Belfast, we were almost submarining as everyone was too terrified to go on deck to reef the main, but we were making good time and Lola was up for it. Her greatest triumph with us was winning the Blue Water Trophy to La Trinite sur Mer in Brittanny in 1984. We had wind, fog off Ushant, adverse tides and a calm near the finish. At times we had every sail up including the mizzen staysail. Changing tack was major operation! We had another 2 years sailing South to France and Spain beating into gales in the Bay of Biscay and a following gale in the Irish Sea with sunshine and great sails in between. In 1987 Lola sailed North on the Blue Water Race to Scrabster with an interesting sail through thick fog near Coll and the smell of seaweed getting

Enjoying a breezy sail at Brest Classics in 2000.

stronger. We continued our cruise through the Orkneys, Fair Isle and rounded Muckle Flugga at the North of the Shetlands. That winter I was pregnant and Neil found that painting Lola’s hull and topsides through the winter was a major undertaking. Our son, Alasdair, had his first cruise on her to Cork, and then we sadly sold Lola. Two years later Davie Rombach phoned us from

Campbeltown to tell us that Lola was now racing green. Fortunately, after being neglected for a year Simon Helliwell took her on and kept her at Eigg. He restored the quarter bunk, put the toilet in a cupboard and converted the heads into the galley and obviously loves her too. In 1985 there were 2 special events. Keith Wilson, Lola’s owner

from 1947-67 joined us for a delightful day’s sailing. He settled into the cockpit and helmed as if he had never been away talking about his good times on her. Lola’s 60th birthday was celebrated with many friends at a barbecue in Wreck Bay. Three sheep and a quantity of alcohol were consumed! Lola casts a spell on those who sail on her. She takes care of you whatever the weather and makes the sailing very special. We wish Lola a very happy 90th and hope she has many more good years of sailing. There are articles of our racing/ cruising on Lola in the CCC Journals for 1985, 1986, 1987 and 1989.

By Marie McDougall

A wonderful double cockpit.

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Give it a

Go R

ory comes from a nonsailing family and his brief journey that has led him to where he is now is as much to do with the people that have helped him as it is his ‘let’s give it a try’ approach to life. Having started rowing at Castle Semple in 2014, every time he went rowing the weather was really more suitable for sailing so one day he asked if he could have a go at that as it looked a lot less effort! The Castle Semple instructors already new Rory from him doing his Kayak levels in 2013 so, he got a couple of goes in a Hansa 303 and then signed up to do his RYA levels 1 & 2 during the summer holidays.This he did with great enthusiasm and passed both. Unfortunately, Castle Semple do not often get anybody wishing to do RYA level 3. Over the winter he did not sail and in the spring was getting quite frustrated at the lack of opportunities to continue his sailing. This was when David Hill suggested making contact with Helen Kirk at CCC. This he did, popped over to see Bardowie on 19

June, and then started joining in on a Wednesday night from the next week on. He went to Summer School at Bardowie for a week in July and passed his stage 3. Usually he is the only person in an Access boat but it did not stop him participating in a regatta at Bardowie and giving it his best shot. We took the dinghy to Loch Lomond for The Scottish Club Champs where he had his first opportunity to race other Access boats. As Rory would tell you ‘we came home with a trophy so not too bad a day at all’. He continued with his Wednesday night training and in September while we were in Salcombe for the weekend, he got the chance to sail at Dartmouth with Dart Sailability. He duly won his couple of races and a chap there suggested if we ever got the chance, to go to Rutland Sailability as they have lots of different dinghies and a wealth of experienced instructors. During the October holiday off we went for a couple of days sailing at Rutland. Within an hour they had taken him out of the Hansa 303 and put him in a brand

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new single seater Liberty which he loved. On the second day one of the instructors said they were going to pass his name onto RYA as a possible para sailor. Four days later we received an email from Matt Grier, Paralympic Coach asking if Rory could come back to Rutland the following week for a 2 day trial in a 2.4. This he did and I am very proud to say is now on the HPC Paralympic Pathway training programme. He is now training for a weekend every month at Leigh and Lowton Sailing Club and will continue this through the winter. Rory is also on the Scottish Swimming Para Squad but I think I can see his sailing taking priority as time goes on. I suppose this just shows that with a bit of determination, encouragement and help, which he has received in plentiful supply from Castle Semple, CCC and everybody at Bardowie, you can achieve quite a lot – even when you are only 13!

By Rory’s mother, Angela McKinna

The Mull of Kintyre

eling his engineer Dan McPhail pe ark Sp al Vit to s gie olo With ap . tatties on the Vital Spark it charge for nals increasing the trans Ca h tis ot Sc of n sio ca oc On the ason 2105. the Crinan by 50% for se me... Oh the Mull of Kintyre for a, I do like the wide open se ar The canal is too de I’ll not shed a tear three, While saving a pound or by Sanda, By sailing the long way gander a And giving Isle Rathlin Macrihanish and Gigha For me it’s no fear . The Mull of Kintyre for me , The Mull of Kintyre for me e Pacific th e lik t It’s not so terrific jus i, Fij and closer than Japan or in A life on the Spanish Ma ane ins me Would never drive The big foaming breakers rs Don’t spoil my chart pape . me for e The Mull of Kintyr , The Mull of Kintyre for me e, we t no d an It’s certainly big to fry ham gh ou en , Sometimes it is calm tea, and I do like a nice cup of You can darn your socks, . While avoiding its rocks The Mull of Kintyre for me , The Mull of Kintyre for me you are free es From robbers and thiev pale at would make you turn There’s no pricey sale th the knee And shiver and shake at in’ Past Arranmans spinn I’m binnin’ the Crinan . The Mull of Kintyre for me ntender By Geoffrey Crowley, Co

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 105

Sailing from a Different Perspective Training For A World Championships In The Windy City – Chicago

Full team marching.

Competition: 2015 Isaf Blind Sailing Fleet Racing World’s And International Championships Country / Territory: Great Britain (Gbr) Squad: British Blind Sailing Team Fleet: B3 Classification Position Onboard: Skipper / Helm Sailor: Laura Cammidge Rank: 1st In Scotland (Individual – Overall) 1st In Britain (Individual – B3 – Fleet Racing), 2nd In The World (Individual – B3 – Fleet Racing), 1st In The World (British Squad– Fleet Racing)

ost will know me as a keen 25 year old dinghy sailor from Bardowie, however I also sail outwith the club in large racing yachts and small keelboats. Despite the fact I love sailing single handed it is not always as easy as it looks for me. As some of you may know, I have a visual impairment that means I am unable to see the same level of detail at a distance as the majority of people. One way to overcome this is to sail with a fully sighted sailor, who can verbally call the various aspects that I find more difficult. Surprisingly, I am one of only two known competitive sailors in Scotland with a disability who actively take part in regular race training sessions. I am also currently the only visual impairment sailor to compete in Scotland, so the idea of sailing with other blind and visually impaired sailors locally is just not possible. However, I have been lucky enough to be able to travel to Cowes on the South Coast of England where I am able to sail with British Blind Sailing, BBS, a charity which allows blind and visual impairment sailors the opportunity to sail and race in a more effective and supportive environment.

November to February Knowing that I would only be able to afford a handful of the proposed Blind Sailing weekends over the coming year, I considered additional funding to enable me to attend and so increase my chances of being considered for the next international competition in September 2015. From speaking to the Club’s Dinghy Section I discovered the CCC Seamanship and Pilotage Trust and wrote a letter of request to the Trustees. Within no

Training Period: Nov’ 2014 – Sept’ 2015 Training Boats: Sonar (23 Ft) Training Locations: West Cowes, Isle Of Wight Competition Period: 5 –15th Sept’ 2015 Competition Boat: Tom 28 (28 Ft) Competition Location: Chicago, Lake Michigan Organising Body: Isaf – International Sailing Federation Host Club: Chicago Yacht Club

106 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

British B3 Team Racing.

British B3 Team celebrating with Silver medals and the Squadron Cup 2015.

time at all I heard that my application had been successful and that the Trust was more than happy to support me in attending Blind Sailing’s winter training and selection programme. With the reassurance of being able to attend considerably more weekends than I had ever expected, thanks to the very generous grant, the prospect of trialling for a place on the British Team was one step closer. Initially the weekends were focused on improving personal skills while also working on communication, teamwork and theory. This was ideal as I was still getting used to the finer details of sailing a Sonar, never mind racing it against more experienced sailors from around the world. Knowing how important the basics were I chose to work on tacking, gybing, finding the best course out of a tack or gybe and my overall confidence Theory started with the basics of determining what tack the boat was on, and gradually built up over time to discuss rules such as multiple

boat mark roundings and obtaining rights on the race course. Meanwhile, on the water training took a more personalised perspective with each boat before coming together to practice training tuning runs and mini races. February’s training weekend went well, considering the recent cancellation of the World Championships. I was surprised when my tactician asked to speak to me and was pleasantly shocked that he was extremely impressed with my helming earlier that day, and thought I was one of the most natural helms he had had the pleasure of sailing with. Having learnt to sail without the aid of a compass or instruments I had had no choice other than to learn purely by feel, and so it was nice to hear that what I was doing instinctively was well done.

March With the World’s now unlikely to happen I had to rethink my entire year of racing. Taking advantage of

a free summer I decided to apply for the race I had always dreamed of doing, the iconic Rolex Fastnet. It was too good an opportunity to miss and so to then receive the news that I had been successful and would be racing with Tall Ships Youth Trust during their 2015 Rolex Fastnet Campaign could not have been a more amazing feeling. At the end of the month the World Championships were suddenly back on the agenda and I now had potentially two international race campaigns that could clash. Not wanting to compromise my chances of doing either, I discovered I could compete in both, as arriving home from the Fastnet gave me just a few days to prepare and pack for Chicago. To make it work I was going to have to quickly adapt between racing a large yacht and a small keelboat.

April and May In April I got the news that the BBS training had been cancelled for

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 107

Opening ceremony Full team outdoor.

April. Although this was not ideal, it did mean I was able to attend my first weekend of Fastnet training. There were also a number of practical and theory courses and long distance races so thanks to Tall Ships I was able to combine the majority of these weekends enabling me to gain valuable hands-on experience while also massively saving on travel costs and time. Having had an amazing three weeks of sailing, I checked my emails and could not believe I had one entitled “2015 Blind Worlds”. Having nervously awaited news for such a long time I did not know how to feel, I opened it to discover I had been selected to represent Britain at the 2015 ISAF Blind Sailing Fleet Racing World’s and International Championships as the helm for the B3 Classification fleet. It was a massive relief and joy. It was hard to concentrate on the Fastnet Race the following day. The idea of actually competing in a World Championships was

unbelievable. It could not get much better – competing in the Fastnet and representing GB in Chicago!

fleets, and improve on our in boat communication and team work while under pressure.

June and July

August

After a busy couple of months down South, it was nice to be able to spend time sailing at Bardowie again with the rest of the Tuesday evening race class, and playing chicken with the Solos on a Thursday night. Being at home also enabled me to race Sonars at the Royal Northern and Clyde Yacht Club which helped towards my training for BBS. June also marked the last of my Fastnet qualification races in the form of The Morgan Cup. Having managed to hold onto our lead throughout the night we achieved 1st place in the fleet and finish what was our most successful race during qualification period. Meanwhile July’s training with BBS was a quiet one in Windermere, where we used the 2015 Annual RNLI Windermere Regatta as part of our training to gain more racing experience in large

With the World’s only weeks away and not yet having reached my fundraising target I desperately needed additional funding in order to compete in Chicago. Thankfully with a number of kind donations on my Just Giving page and another extremely generous grant from the Club’s Seamanship and Pilotage Trust I was able to secure the much needed funds just in time. I could not have been more grateful to the Trust for their second grant, considering the amount of support they had already given me. It was now time to focus on the Fastnet Race. Having learnt so much over the campaign and knowing that we were competitive to the end, made finishing last in our fleet not so bad. Celebrating at the Fastnet Ceremony with thousands of other sailors from around the world was amazing.

108 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Chicago racing downwind.

Full of excitement after the Fastnet, a day of training in the Solent was almost relaxing. We had a productive two days on the water, practising old skills and learning new ones while sailing in huge tides, choppy seas and gusty winds. It was a great way to end our training in Britain, and we were looking forward to finally sailing together as a full team for the first time in Chicago.

September Having landed in the early afternoon of Sunday with time to explore we set off to Chicago Yacht Club and took the opportunity to meet some of the Club’s members and officials. It was a good, but very long first day. On Monday morning we visited the Chicago Match Racing Centre to look at the Tom 28s for the 1st time. We were up for the challenge of racing a new type of boat never having sailed at such an event before so there were no past expectations from other countries however we faced our own different pressures. Tuesday was the official start to training so we headed straight out to water. The Tom’s were completely different to Sonars and proved to be a big learning curve. Although really enjoying the whole experience and location I did not feel it had been a good day as I found it difficult to get the accuracy required without over steering. On Wednesday while all the visually impaired sailors were tied up with classification and testing the tacticians and sighted crews took the opportunity to swap notes and

combine their skills on the water to ensure that each boat was happy and ready to go. For the B3 boat it was a very effective morning as it proved to be a major turning point in how we handled and sailed the boat. Being able to talk with the guys who had been out helming was both reassuring and encouraging, as we could relate to each other about any difficulties or realisations we had had. It was just what I needed and felt miles better about going back out for a second afternoon of training. With the new knowledge we had a great couple of hours on the water. Finally it was Thursday – race day! However, severe winds made it impossible for us to go out sailing. After all the build up and preparation, the decision not to race felt much worse. Hoping for much better weather on Friday we all waited eagerly for the good news and we could at last go racing and properly start the world championships. It was still fairly windy and gusty, so the Tom 28’s had been given a sail area restriction and must at all times have a reef in our main sails. Despite the lovely warm and sunny weather overhead, the conditions we were experiencing onboard the Tom 28 were far from dry. Another crew member described it – “as if I had been on a water flume ride rather than on a sailing boat”. The big winds and large choppy sea conditions had built up over the length of the 300 odd mile lake creating plenty of chop, spray, and gusty wind to make for some challenging situations and slightly scary downwind sections, but good conditions all round. Happy with our results from the first day, we achieved three 3rd’s, a 2nd and a 4th. It was horrible to hear yet again that weather conditions on Saturday were unfavourable and again there would be no of racing. However, with what was a relatively really nice day ashore and to cheer everyone up, we all went on a bus tour of the city. In the evening we gathered for the traditional Championship Dinner of “Surf and Turf ” at the yacht club. This was our chance to wear our smart uniform of black dresses and shirts and ties as the prize giving and awards

ceremony the following day would be straight after coming off the water. Thankfully, Sunday got off to a good start with all fleets cleared to sail with full sail areas. Light winds and smooth seas gave us a chance to gain some ground on the heavier crews who had performed well on Friday. Being one of the lightest boats we soon proved that these were our kind of conditions, starting two 1st’s and a 2nd. We were having a great time flying up wind and making significant gains both up wind and down wind, with a memorable occasion of crossing the start line last, but rounding the first windward mark in a comfortable 1st position. Unfortunately, our luck with the weather ran out and before we had time to complete our 4th race, time was called on the championships and the racing was all over. Despite the day’s excitement beginning to dying down the British Team were still up for celebrating well into the night. A sunlit roof top barbeque overlooking the lake with the Squadron Cup in the background on display was a lovely after party. Prior to the prize giving I knew our results were going to be close, but it still came as a big surprise when our team was announced as the Silver Medallists for the B3 Fleet. With the other two British Teams also receiving medals we won the Squadron Cup. Winning the Silver Medal was the best thing and I felt very proud to have been the helm for the team. I cannot wait to get back out on the water and start training for next year, though it is going to be hard to match this year! Finally, a huge thank you to the Trust for the grants and support given to me throughout the year, without which the winter training and Chicago would not have been possible. Thanks also to all club members, family and friends and in particular Patrick Trust, Helen Kirk and Alistair Angus who generously supported me and were always there for me.

By Laura Cammidge

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 109

CCC Report

Cruising Secretary Events Report

he opening muster attracted all the usual suspects, unfortunately missed by me as I was “otherwise engaged”. However I am pleased to report that the barbeque and the supper were up to a good standard and my thanks to Jane and the ladies who helped with the food on the Sunday. £600 was raised at a raffle at the Opening Muster Supper as it coincided with the RNLI UK May Day Appeal weekend. On the Sunday morning as the CCC use the boathouse they have a collection box for donations to the RNLI and this raised £200, and was not included in the Mayday Appeal. Both events attracted prizes – a Sea Safari trip, lunch at Cameron House and places for six on Clyde Challenger were among those on offer. The Mini Cruise in Company made our way to Rothesay – Morgana, Zubenubi, Lyrebird and Kerlo with her new owners. A convivial evening at the Black Bull, followed later by nightcaps on Morgana and a pleasant sail to Holy Loch on the Saturday saw the cocktail hour on board Lyrebird and Morgana and Kerlo having supper at the Holy Loch Inn. It was a good shakedown cruise as it turned a wee bit Southerly, gusting 6 on the way back to Rhu. Ladies’ and Juniors’ event followed the well-tried format, good sailing, good food and excellent company,

with the usual West coast weather, no rain on Saturday but quite chilly. The collage competition was again a feature and the sherry went down well, a great family weekend. The Loch Spelve Muster was without doubt one of the top events of the year with numbers attending the party ashore reaching the hundred mark, great seafood from the proprietors and the burgers and sausages went down well. The presence of members of the Royal Cruising Club added to the fun, the three pipers made the day and of course it rained and was cold but nobody seemed bothered. My thanks to Douglas, Helen and their team for supplying such generous portions of their superb mussels. I took a bag away with me, cooked them on board, put them into a jar with a little malt vinegar and ground white pepper, then into the fridge. I enjoyed them later at home in Edinburgh with a can or two of Innis & Gunn lager, delicious. After starting the Troon Race, Morgana motored to Troon and enjoyed the hospitality laid on by Stephen and Rib Tony, his patent beer cooler took a trick (an elderly rubber dinghy full of water, ice, white wine, Guinness, John Smiths and Tennants lager) followed by many pizzas and, after the prize giving, tots of Mount Gay UCL, a great party. Thanks to both.

PRO Johnnie Readman surveys the fleet at Scottish Series from Morgana

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GSS Regatta: Good two days racing in ideal conditions, the Friday night party was excellent and the Saturday barbeque also went down well. Big thank you to Silvers for the hospitality. The Closing Muster: Morgana again started the Closing Muster race and it became abundantly clear that there was no wind whatsoever at Rothesay so the fleet then sailed to Kames where all classes got off to a light West to North Westerly air, a slightly reaching start but all got a clean start and a race to Tarbert. The event in the tent went well and the dinner at Tarbert was better than previous years. A great weekend with much hilarity and good fellowship, a fitting end to the season. Morgana departed for the Canals and reached Port Edgar eight days later, arriving at 01:00 on the Sunday. The yacht is now safely laid up ashore. A great season with some cold winds at the beginning but an excellent second half once the jet stream sorted itself out. My thanks to my crew, Clive and Patrick and to the members who attended at these events and I hope to see many more of you at the special events with our Irish friends in 2016.

By Graham Crawford – Cruising Secretary, Morgana

CCC Report

Scottish Series Report Dane in catch-up craft.

ilvers Marine Scottish Series is over for another year and has been a great success. We have had extremely positive

reports. Our survey after the event had 161 responses the vast majority of which were very supportive of the changes we continuously make to keep the event fresh but of course we will take on board the less positive comments and keep on striving to improve. After the success of 2014 and the changes we made 2015 was all about evolution. Once again we made some changes that had a positive impact both ashore and afloat such that

Yachting Life, Scotland’s local sailing magazine described it as “Best Ever”. In the end competitor numbers of 130 boats was up a huge 30% on 2014 and up nearly 50% on 2013. This is great validation that the changes made and the continued support of our family of sponsors is greatly appreciated by the competitors The social aspects of the event were very well received; in particular the BIG Saturday party night. We intend to continue to tweak the social side for 2016 concentrating on quality rather than quantity. As ever with racing in Loch Fyne there were challenges however this year the wind gods (if not the sun) smiled upon the event providing outstanding racing on all courses. Once again the media aspect of the event was extremely successful with greater coverage than previous years due to a consistent and positive presence on digital media outlets Facebook and Twitter. A constant stream of stories were updated to all these pages in the months coming

up to the event and during. There were also the usual more traditional stories presented by the media team to printed media both in general and sailing specific publications. We are taking up some options to continue to have coverage in other media and this is keeping the event in everyone’s mind. The overall winner this year came from Ireland and as such that created a lot of positive coverage that has left a lot of the Irish teams feeling they missed out. Hopefully this will see a return of more teams from across the water. The overall winners, Fools Gold, who also happened to win the youth team trophy overall, were named “Sailor of the Month” by Ireland’s leading sailing magazine Afloat. Planning for 2016 has already started and so we look forward to seeing everyone on Loch Fyne for the 27-30 May.

By Dane Ralston – Rear Commodore

Racing Report

he 2015 season continued the trend of low turn-outs seen over the past few years. I’m sure that the very changeable and occasionally unpleasant conditions of the early part of this summer didn’t help at all! The first leg of the Tobermory Race and the Zigeuner Trophy race both had to be abandoned due to a lack of competitors and Class 1 has only managed the Bute Race and Closing Muster this year.The Closing Muster Race to Tarbert bucked the trend once again and had another great turn-out this year, enjoying the first part of the Indian summer. The Inshore Series in summary – Class 1 had 6 entries in only two races. Class 2 and 3 have seen around a dozen boats over the season but only 3 or 4 regulars. The Offshore Series in summary – Class 1 had 5 boats over the season with

only 2 completing the series. IRC and CYCA classes were combined this year which has made it easier to run races, without fragmenting the smaller fleet too much. The GSS Regatta was a great success. Although the numbers were down slightly on last year there was some very close racing over a range of conditions. My thanks to the team who ran the event, including our Principal Race Officer, ex Commodore John Watson. Another really positive aspect of this season was the marked increase in entries for Scottish Series and the feedback about the quality of the event. The other main weekend regattas in the Clyde had sustainable numbers, but no others could boast of such an increase. Over the last couple of months there has been an effort to coordinate

with the other CYCA clubs to rationalise the busy calendar with the aim of running fewer events of high quality and with a better turnout at each. As it is the inshore weekend events which attract the smallest entries, we have decided to take the first step and will not run the Arran Trophy weekend next season.We also plan to invite FYC to join us for the Bute Race and hope that other clubs will also take the opportunity to build on this. My thanks, as ever, goes to those who have willingly carried out Committee Vessel duties and remained flexible enough to cope with last minute changes.

By Des Balmforth – Racing Secretary, Tangaroa

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 111

CCC Report

Dinghy Section Report

015 has proved to be an interesting year at the Dinghy Section.The year at Bardowie started normally with the Open Water Swimmers New Year’s Day swim followed by the walk around the loch on the 2 January. At the end of the month we held our second Burns Supper an event which looks set to become a fixture in the club calendar. At the end of March we got all the boats out of storage and spent the usual large amount of time and effort tracking down all the parts and equipment which had been so carefully stored the previous autumn. Why is it that no matter how carefully you put things away and note where they are you still can not find them when you need them again? However as always after a huge effort by our volunteers everything was ready for sailing and training courses to begin in early April. So far nothing out of the ordinary, then; on the 23 April as members were preparing for the Thursday evening race smoke was noticed coming from the boatshed roof. The fire brigade were called and attended

quickly putting out the fire which had fortunately been confined to a section of the roof. Just for the record after the excitement sailing continued as normal that night. Fortunately, the damage was contained to a relatively small area and we were able to continue using the shed pending its repair by Luddons, the cost of which was fortunately covered by our insurance. So far so good, then not long after the fire we noticed what looked like a new spring of water in the car park between the boatshed and the club house. It was a spring of sorts but unfortunately it wasn’t natural, it was a burst water pipe. Fortunately Luddons were able to quickly locate and repair the burst. So two problems dealt with, what else could possibly go wrong? We should never tempt fate by even thinking that way. On the 3 September what can only be described as a distinct odour was noticed in the area around the clubhouse which on close inspection appeared to be emanating from effluent observed in the water. In the

Johnnie and Mandy Readman with dinghy section committee at RYA Scotland Awards January 2015.

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circumstances we had no option but to close the loch for sailing and any other water related activity, advise the loch side residents and SEPA and call in Luddons to get them to trace and repair the cause of the apparent leak. Over the next few weeks myself and some other members became rather more closely acquainted with the workings of the club’s sewage system that I for one would have wished. However it was worth it as much to our collective relief we found that after extensive testing of our system it was in good working order and could not have been the source of the effluent and that analysis of water samples from the loch confirmed that the water was quite safe for sailing and other water activities. They do say misfortunes come in threes so I hope it is not tempting fate to say that hopefully the club has had its share of misfortunes for the time being. Over and above these unplanned jobs we undertook some much needed painting of the exterior of the clubhouse last winter and this

CCC Report

CCC Challengers racing at Quiberon Regatta in Brittany.

winter will extend the existing paved pathway from the hoist to the floating jetty. Meantime in spite of these nonsailing related out of the ordinary incidents the club has continued very much as normal. Evening training courses and summer school continue to attract significant numbers and although the weather was generally poor over the summer Thursday night races continued to attract reasonable entries. But it is outwith Bardowie that some of our members achieved the most noteworthy racing success with Laura Cammidge gaining an individual silver and being part of the British team which retained the Squadron Cup as the overall

Blind Sailing World Champions and David Sword who travelled to the Netherlands to win the Dutch Solo Championships being the most noteworthy of a whole list of individual successes which were listed in the October issue of Tidelines In June for the second year running the club participated in the Sir Thomas Lipton Foundation Buoyed Up Programme. The foundation works with organisations such as Clyde Cruising Club “to make life better for disadvantaged children and young people through sailing and sailing related activities” The programme aims to help demonstrate the practical application of literacy, numeracy, communication and technology as well as developing

responsibility and self-confidence. This year the club provided a week’s sail training to 28 primary 6 and 7 pupils from Saracen Primary School in Possilpark. The sailing was the culmination of months of work by the pupils learning about Sir Thomas Lipton, his life, the grocery business, tea cultivation in Sri Lanka and sea transport. The week was acknowledged to be a great success, thanks in no small measure to the hard work and dedication of our instructors and support team and we are developing proposals with the foundation to deliver sail training again next year. That concludes this very quick overview of the club’s operational activities this year, but over and above that there have been a number of organisational changes within the Dinghy Section Committee. I shall be standing down as DS Captain in December and at the DS AGM on 15 October Hugh McLean accepted the nomination to be our new Captain, taking office in January 2016. Morag James has been nominated as Club Secretary, Jason Mackenzie has been invited to join the committee as Bosun replacing Alex Patterson who had to resign due to pressure of work, Ellis Smith has also been invited to join the committee replacing Struan McBride who also had to resign due to pressure of work and finally Gordon Stewart has been invited to join the committee. In conclusion this is my final report as DS Captain and I want to thank all the members of the DS and Main Club Committees past and present and Jennifer in the club office who have provided so much help and support to me and who work so hard to ensure the smooth running of the club, the stewards, the race officers, the diner crew and everyone who turns up to help at work parties, indeed just whenever they are needed. The club simply could not function without the thousands of hours of voluntary work done by its members and I count it a privilege to be a part of it.

By Jim Graham, Dinghy Section Captain

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 113

2015 List of Prizewinners Boat Name

Skipper’s Name

Places and Prizes

Animal

K & D Aitken

3rd IRC1 Rothesay-Tarbert Race

Aurora

R Stuart/W Ram

1st IRC1 & CYCA1 Sat Bute Race CLEAR WATER TROPHY W PATON JONES TROPHY

Blackjack

P Moyes

1st Bute Race Sat Class 3 SIREVAAG QUAICH

Carmen II

A Jeffrey/P Scutt

CYCA1 Overall: ST GEORGE BOWL

Celtic Spirit

Brian Robertson

1st CYCA3 Opening Muster 1st CYCA3 Tobermory 2nd Leg: DUART CUP Tobermory 2nd leg best overall: TOBERMORY TUESDAY CUP 2nd CYCA3 Rothesay to Tarbert

Enigma

Howard Morrison

2nd IRC2 Rothesay- Tarbert 3rd IRC2 Inshore Championship

Greymalkin

Andrew Glen

Best Cadet Ladies’ and Juniors’ Race: CADET TORQUE TROPHY

Guillemot

Iain Brown

2nd Ladies’ and Juniors’ Race

Halcyon

Stephen & Malene Owen

3rd CYCA3 Opening Muster 1st Arran Trophy Saturday: DONGOLA TANKARD 2nd CYCA3 Largs Race 3rd CYCA3 Rothesay-Tarbert Race 1st CYCA3 Inshore Championship: ARRAN YC MUG

Katsu

Alan Hannon

1st IRC1 North Channel Race: RUYC TANKARD 1st IRC1 Offshore Championship: OFFSHORE TROPHY (FT)

La Mouette

N Taylor/G McMorrin

1st CYCA3 Largs Race

Leaky Roof II

Alan Harper/Eric Robertson

3rd CYCA2 Bute Race Sat 1st CYCA2 Bute Race Sun

Lemarac

Boyd Tunnock

1st CYCA2 Bute Race Sat: BUTE CHALLENGE TROPHY 1st CYCA2 Opening Muster Opening Muster overall winner: SWEDISH LADY TROPHY 3rd CYCA2 Rothesay-Tarbert Race 2nd CYCA2 Inshore Championship

Liaison

Frank & Shona Shields

3rd CYCA2 Opening Muster 2nd IRC2 Opening Muster 1st CYCA2 Arran Trophy Saturday: VANORA TROPHY 1st IRC2 Arran Trophy Saturday: SATURN SAILS TROPHY Arran Trophy Best overall both races: ARRAN TROPHY 1st IRC 2 Arran Trophy Sunday 2nd CYCA2 Largs Race 1st IRC2 Rothesay-Tarbert Race: BISCUIT BARREL 1st IRC2 Inshore Championship: CRUISER CLASS TROPHY 1st CYCA2 Inshore Championship: ORMIDALE TROPHY

Lyrebird

Clive & Flora Reeves

2nd CYCA3 Opening Muster 2nd CYCA3 Tobermory Leg 2 2nd CYCA3 Inshore Championship

Malindi or Lorne

Seonaid Reid

1st CYCA3 Rothesay-Tarbert Race: WRIGHT TROPHY

Maximoose II

Douglas Lang

1st CYCA1 North Channel Race: RUYC FID 1st CYCA1 Offshore Championship: NORTH CHANNEL CUP North Channel best overall: NEPTUNE JUG

Mayrise

James Miller

GSS Sigma Class: OLD GAFFERS TROPHY GSS IRC2: TORCH TROPHY

Odyssey II

Susie Matthews

Best Lady Ladies’ and Juniors’: CAMUSFERNAN CHALICE

Oystercatcher

Murray Caldwell

2nd CYCA2 Rothesay-Tarbert Race

Phoenix

McVey, Darge, Black

2nd IRC2 Largs Race

Polaris

Chris Harvey/Ian MacLachlan

1st IRC2 Bute Race Sat: SUNRISE TANKARD 1st IRC2 1 Opening Muster 2nd CYCA2 Opening Muster 2nd CYCA2 Arran Trophy Sat 1st IRC2 Arran Trophy Sun 1st CYCA2 Arran Trophy Sun 3rd IRC2 Rothesay-Tarbert Race 3rd CYCA2 Inshore Championship 2nd IRC2 Inshore Championship

114 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

2015 List of Prizewinners Boat Name

Skipper’s Name

Places and Prizes

Prime Suspect

Charlie Frize

1st CYCA1 Rothesay-Tarbert: ALFRED MYLNE CUP 1st IRC1 Rothesay-Tarbert: TRINGA TROPHY

Roxstar

Murray Findlay/Jonathan Anderson 1st CYCA1 Bute Race Sun 1st IRC1 Bute Race Sun 2nd CYCA1 Rothesay-Tarbert 2nd IRC1 Rothesay-Tarbert 2nd CYCA1 Inshore Championship IRC1 Inshore Championship: STRANG SILVER TANKARD

Salamander

John Corson

2nd IRC1 Bute Race Sat

Sloop John T

Iain & Graham Thomson

2nd IRC1 Bute Race Sun: AILSA CRAIG CUP 1st IRC2 Troon Race: AILSA CRAIG CUP 1st CYCA2 Troon Race: TARBERT ROSE BOWL 1st CYCA2 Largs Race 1st IRC2 Largs Race Troon-Largs CYCA overall: KAMES TROPHY Troon Weekend overall: TROON WEEKEND TROPHY Best overall GSS Regatta: AIE TROPHY 3rd IRC1 Inshore Championship 3rd CYCA1 Inshore Championship

Stargazer

A Bilsland

2nd CYCA2 Bute Race Sat 1st CYCA2 Rothesay-Tarbert Race: VICTORIA TROPHY

Topaz

Rick & Margo James

1st CYCA3 Troon Race: ALEXANDER CRAIG MEMORIAL TROPHY 3rd CYCA3 Inshore Championship

Topaz of Lorne

David Robertson

CYCA3 Tobermory Overall: AROS TROPHY Tobermory overall TOBERMORY TROPHY (BELL)

Warrior

Ross Fullarton

3rd CYCA1 Bute Race Sat 2nd CYCA1 Bute Race Sun 1st CYCA1 Ailsa Craig Race 1st IRC1 Ailsa Craig Race SABOO TROPHY Ailsa Craig 2nd CYCA1 Offshore Championship

Windhound

David Macnab

1st CYCA3 Arran Trophy Sun

SINBAD FAMILY TROPHY Tangaroa Des and Elizabeth Balmforth TOMATIN TROPHY: Best overall performance in the season’s Inshore Championship Liaison Frank and Shona Shields JOHN DOBIE MEMORIAL TROPHY: Awarded to a member with the highest achievements in cruising and racing. Lyrebird Clive and Flora Reeves

VALHALLA OF ASHTON SALVER: Presented by the Dunnet family this year to recognise the volunteers at Scottish Series and awarded for the first time to John Douglas for his unstinting work at Scottish Series both on and off the water for many years IAN MICHIE SALVER: For best contribution to the Sailing Directions – working on the new combined edition for N & NE Coasts, Orkney and Shetland Islands Seol-na-Mara Iain and Barbara MacLeod

JOHN RODGER TROPHY: Awarded to the Clyde yacht which, in the opinion of the Racing Committee, has given the best performance during the season in a racing event outwith the Clyde and West Coast of Scotland. For his performance in the Commodore’s Cup Zephyr Steve Cowie

GLENLEE DECANTER: Alistair Angus for his participation and efforts at Bardowie over many years

CLYDE BOWL: for the most meritorious performance in Clyde Challenger Passage Race Drum Arnold Clark picked up by skipper Susie Edmond

ICC DECANTER: Phil Walter for his contribution to the new CCC website and Scottish Series over many years

FERRIER SEAMANSHIP TROPHY: Awarded to a person who is judged to have displayed a responsible attitude to the art of seamanship during the season, either on a particular occasion or over a longer period. Laura Cammidge for her success in the Blind World Championships held in Chicago in September

SUNFLOWER SALVER: Edward Mason was presented with this at the AGM

GLENCAIRN TROPHY: Dane Ralston for his input to successful Scottish Series

SCOTTISH SERIES TROPHY: Fools Gold Rob McConnell

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 115

2015 Prizegiving and Dinner Dance

1. CCC Trophy Winners 2015 2. Laura Cammidge with the

Ferrier Seamanship Trophy

3. Visiting Commodores:

Louise Clay, Peter Killen, Jenny Trust, Henry Clay & Beverly Killen

4. Iain and Barbara MacLeod with the Ian Michie Salver

5. Dane Ralston Trophy with the Glencairn Trophy

116 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

4 5

7 6

9 11

6. Jennifer Rolland & Des Balmforth 7. Rob McConnell & Marcella Connelly, Scottish Series Winners

8. Mike Johnston with Murray Blair Trophy 9. Neil & Alison Spurway 10. Clive and Flora Reeves collect CCA trophy for Graham Boyd

11. John Douglas Valhalla of Ashton Trophy

12. Edward Mason, Sunflower Salver AGM Patrick Trust

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 117

2015 Prizegiving and Dinner Dance 14

17 18

13. Anna & Ross Balmforth, Tangaroa - The Sinbad Family Trophy 14. Charlie Craig & Tomoko Iwata with the Caledonian Trophy 15. Shona & Frank Shields 16. Helen & Chris Evans 17. Sylvia McLean, Craig & Natasha McLean, Hugh McLean 18. David Robertson

118 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

19. Jennifer Rolland 20. Gordon Dundas, Susie & Alex Matthews,

Harold & Barbara Hood with the Barra Cup

21. Bill Logie with Donald McNamara Trophy 22. Gaynor Ralston & Aileen Taylor 23. The Dancing

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 119

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Lyrebird rounding the mark at Scottish Series.

Boys playing with the buoys.

Dane plays catch-up.

122 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

Morgana laying a line.

Bob Bradfield cleans the mussels with CCC members.

Cosy cabin.

Sigmas racing at GSS Regatta.

Relaxing after GSS Regatta at RNCYC.

Morag Machin confirming her knowledge at Closing Muster.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 123

Members’ Cruises 2015 Yacht name Alligin

Yacht name

Clar Innis

Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Westerly Oceanranger 1932C Ian and Mary Buchanan Owned Kip Marina

Moody 336 1744C Tom Watson Owner Largs

Anchorages visited

Early Summer Cruise: Largs; Lamlash; Port Ellen; Craighouse; Ardintrave; Loch Aline; Mallaig; Portree; Armadale; Tobermory (again); Crinan Canal; Largs Rest of season: Cruising on Firth of Clyde

Highlight

Early Summer Cruise: Spent quite a lot of time dodging gales. Rest of Season: More benign conditions – even managed dinner in cockpit!

Yacht name

Arran Comrades

Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Freedom Ketch 3534C Mike Johnston Owned Crinan Canal, mostly Bellanoch

Anchorages visited

From Largs to Tarbert and Crinan early in June. June Weekend: East Tarbert – Jura, Lowlandman Bay, Port Ellen (for the Beach Rugby – great), Craighouse and back. July Cruise: Crinan, Erraid, Bunessan, Sanna, Muck, Lochboisdale, Eriskay, Castlebay, Cornaig Bay, Lochboisdale, Loch Eport, Berneray, Leverburgh, Rodel, Port Erisco, Staffin, Rona, Plockton, Mallaig, Eigg, Loch Cuan, Tobermory, Craignure, Bonawe, Craobh, Bellanoch. West Highland Week: One 1st, one 2nd and two rubbish from four starts. Brother Pat as crew along with Kirsty (woof). Late August Cruise: Craignure, Port Appin, Hollytree, Corpach, Loch Oich, Muirton, Clachnaharry, Rosemarkie, Hopeman, Whitehills, Banff, Lossiemouth, Findhorn (superb and well worth the effort to get in and out), Portmahomack, Off the 16th Tee at Dornoch Links, Rosmarkie, Dores, Eagle Barge at Laggan Locks, Corpach, Ardentraive, Puilladobhrain, Bellanoch. We also visited Findochty, Portnockie and Portsoy harbours by bus – dog friendly. Mid-September: Tayvallich, Kilmory, Gigha and Craighouse, then next weekend back to Craighouse for the Jura Music Festival – a wonderful event and very well organised. October: A Friday night in Clachan Sound then a week later to Craignure and Tobermory for the tragically curtailed Mull Rally, Loch Drumbuie, Miller’s Port – Lismore, Creagan Inn – Loch Creran, before tying up at Dunstaffnage Marina for four days and nights at the Royal National Gaelic Mod in Oban – a fantastic way to round off the season.

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Anchorages visited

Main Summer Cruise: Kip, Ardrishaig, Cairnbaan, Crinan, Craobh, Lochaline (Westerly Muster), Tobermory, Canna, Loch Scresort, Arisaig, Inverie, Mallaig, Plockton, Portree, Isle Oronsay, Tobermory, Arisaig, Plockton, Badachro, Stornoway, Tob Bhrollum, Rodel, Lochmaddy, Wizard Pool, Lochboisdale, Canna, Tobermory, Salen, Tobermory, Oban, Port Appin, Ardfern, Lochgilphead, Ardrishaig, Kip

Highlight

Some overheating problems with the engine at the start of the summer cruise caused us to abandon the trip through the Caledonian Canal and on to Orkney. With the engine thought vulnerable we stuck to the more open seas of the West Coast and Western Isles. Poor weather confined us to port on several occasions but we still managed a good trip.

Yacht name Curlew Type of Boat Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Anchorages visited

Cromarty 36 Norman Smith Owned South Shian, Loch Creran.

April. South Shian, Loch Aline, Loch Mingary, Loch Kentra, Loch Moidart, Arisaig, Poll nam Partain Eigg, Tobermory, Kinloch Teacuis, Sailean Mor Oronsay, Loch Aline, Camus Nathais, South Shian. May. Inninmore, Loch Aline, Loch Drumbuie, Torraneidhinn, Kinloch Teacuis, Loch Drumbuie, Glen Mor Bay, Acarsaid Mor Calve Island, Loch Aline, Puilladobhrain, Ardura Loch Spelve, Loch Feochan, Eilean na Caorach, Port Ramsay, South Shian. June. Loch Aline, Doirlinn Cottage, Loch Teacuis, Sailean Mor, Caileach Stone Loch Alsh, Camus a’ Mhorbhoeil, Duntulm, Kinloch Shell, Loch Valamus, Bagh Reimsabhaidh, Ob Likisto, Tarbert Harris, Loch Scadabay, Ensay, Corran Raa Taransay, Scarp, Kinlochresort, Diriscal, Cravadale, Loch Leosavay, Loch Uidhe Taransay, Traigh na Cleavaig, Moreag Harbour, Floddaymor, Loch Eport, Loch Maddy, Loch Partain. July / August. Lochmaddy, Cheesebay, Carnish Uig, Tob Pabay, Loch an Stroim, Bernera Harbour, Bratanish / Callanish, Kirkibost, Loch Risay, Miavaig, Kearstay, Basin of Vacassay, Cheese Bay, Ardmaddy Bay, Loch Portain, East Loch Tarbert, Kilmaluag Bay, South Rona, Ob Totaig, Ardintoul Bay, Isle Ornsay, Arisaig, North Channel Moidart, Tobermory, Loch Aline, South Shian. September. Frank Lockwood’s Island, Port Ohirnie, Loch Buie, Garbh Eilean, Traigh Gheal, Scalasaig, Oronsay, West Loch Tarbert Jura (various), Bagh Feith a’Chaoruinn, Bagh Gleann nam Muc, Puilladobhrain, South Shian. October. Loch Aline, Sailean Mor, Glencripisdale, Salen, Loch Drumbuie, Calve Island, Loch Aline, Camus Eignaig, Port Ramsay, South Shian, Creran Marine.

Members’ Cruises 2015 Highlight

Not the best ever, in that both May and June were mostly very cold. Beating out of Loch Sunart in May, you do not really expect 3°C, a battering of hailstones like marbles, and 30 Knts of wind. We did have an interesting week or so, exploring some of the hidden corners of the Loch Roags, even if coming South again was pretty hard work. Sod proved his Law by giving us our best weather immediately after lifting out in early October. Ah well, next year will be brilliant.

Yacht name Hecate Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Trident Voyager 40 2454C Patrick Trust Owned Ardfern

Anchorages visited

Rhu, Holy Loch, Portavadie twice, Loch Ranza, Rothesay, Largs and Tarbert Loch Fyne for Scottish Series and Closing Muster, Craighouse, Loch Tarbert Jura, Oronsay, Scalasaig twice, Ardfern, Tobermory twice, Loch na Dal, Kyle of Lochalsh, Poll Creadha, Port Mor, Loch Aline, Easdale, Puilladobhrain, Port Appin, Loch Spelve, Ardinamir, Kiloran Bay, Tinker’s Hole, Staffa, Tobermory, Oban, Achanarnich Bay, Goat Island Loch Craignish.

Highlight

Only managed 965 miles this year and 184 of that was son Rory and 5 mates getting sunburnt at Kiloran Bay on Colonsay prior to circumnavigating Mull. The sun seemed to avoid the old folks for most of the summer and the memories are of cool damp times!

Yacht name Lyrebird Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Maxi 1000 1302C Clive Reeves Owned Rhu

Anchorages visited

Clyde – April to Oct: Racing and Cruising. Caladh Harbour +2, Holy Loch, Port Bannatyne +4, Otter Ferry, Brodick Bay +3, Loch Ranza, Millport +3, Campbeltown, Davaar Island, Wreck Bay, Loch Riddon, Rothesay +3, Troon, Largs +2,Tarbert +4, Rhu, Gareloch – Total 43 Days. Approximately 700 miles. Main Cruise June/July: Campeltown, Islay (Port Ellen), Tinker’s Hole (Mull), Muck, Kyle Lochalsh, Kyleakin, Applecross, Rona, Berneray, Canna, Rhum (Glen Harris), Tobermory +3, Loch Aline, Easdale, Balvicar, Ardfern, Tobermory, Ardfern, Eilean Nan Gabhar (Loch Craignish), Gigha, Davaar, Rhu. 21 days/638 miles. Cruise to Ireland – 15 to 22 August: Troon, Lady Bay (Loch Ryan), Carrickfergus +2, Belfast Harbour, Ballycastle, Rathlin Island, Troon – 7 days /190 miles. Total 1500 plus miles this year.

Our Main holiday had disappointing weather but some good sailing and some great parties at Tobermory, my trip back round the Mull, single handed on a Starry moonlight night was just magic. The Trip to Ireland on Dream Catcher (Lyrebird had a engine problem) with fantastic sailing, weather and company, the trip down Belfast Loch to the Titanic was memorable.

Yacht name

Margaret Wroughton

Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

RIVAL 41 MW Gavin and Georgie McLaren Owned Falmouth

Anchorages visited

Quinto do Lorde (Madeira), Arrecife (Lanzarote), English Harbour (Antigua), Portsmouth (Dominica), Rousseau, Marin, (Martinique), Baie des Anglais, Havre Robert, Bequia, (St. Vincent and the Grenadines) Tobago Cays, Petit St. Vincent, Chatham Bay, Clifton, Carriacou (Grenada), St Georges, Mount Hartman Bay, Chaguaramus (Trinidad).

Highlights

Madeira and Lanzarote were splendid, and we enjoyed them both. The Atlantic crossing, our third together in Margaret Wroughton was untypical with a lot of variable winds and heavy, thundery squalls. The Eastern Caribbean remains a delight, though much changed since we were last here, twenty years ago. We made a visit home from Trinidad and are now back in Chaguaramus preparing for Cartagena and the Panama Canal. In the Pacific we plan a long passage out to Hawaii and from there to British Columbia in summer 2016. As usual, we have been two handed.

Yacht name

Micky Finn IV

Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Dufour 40 4050C Mike Forbes Owned Rhu Marina

Anchorages visited

Rhu, Brodick, Ballycastle, Craobh, Lochaline, Tobermory, Lochaline, Puilladhobrain, Crinan, Tarbert, Wreck Bay.

Highlights

While in most of the above anchorages we were sheltering from strong winds and planning where to go to shelter from the next strong wind forecast to come from a different direction. The highlight was enjoying exploring the North Coast of Ireland which we would not have done if we had not been stormbound in Ballycastle.

Highlights

Despite some awful weather in June/July we had great fun doing all the CCC races – Scottish Series was terrificand cruising the Clyde – sunbathing at Rothesay on the 12 October!

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 125

Members’ Cruises 2015 Yacht name

Monkey Business

Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Beneteau First 38s5 K3880T Charlie Craig Owned Tighnabruaich

Anchorages visited

Tighnabruaich, Crinan Canal, Canna, Loch Finsby, Stornoway, Pierowall, Lerwick. Norway; Alesund, Ona, Eggeleira (Eide), Kongsvoll, Brekstad, Bessaker, Langoya, Nesna, Sandviken (Sorfugloy), Bodo, Helnessund, Reine, Nusfjord, Henningsvaer, Hopen, Svolvaer, Gullvik, Bogen, Karlsoyvaer, Kjerringoy, Bliksvaer, Inndyrvagen, Engen (Svartisen), Skeishavna, Namsfjord, Majeroysundet, Sandoya, Roald, Hareid. Lerwick, Fair Isle, Kirkwall, Wick, Caledonian Canal, Port Ramsey, Gigha, Carradale, Tighabruaich June 12 –August 12: 2554 miles, Distance under Power not recorded.

Highlights

Please see narrative log and photographs submitted

Yacht name Pinocchio Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Dufour 44 4408C Mr and Mrs Peter L Fairley Owned Rhu

Anchorages visited

Black Farland Bay, Crinan Canal, Barnacarry Bay, Oban, Port Mor Muck, Isle Oronsay Skye, Plockton, Mallaig Marina, Broadford Bay Skye, Acarseid Mhor South Rona, Loch Snizort, Loch Dunvegan, Loch Eport, Loch Boisdale Marina, Eriskay, Loch Sunart, Tobermory, Loch Drumbuie, Aringour Coll, Loch Breachadh Coll, Tinker’s Hole, Dunstaffnage Marina, Loch Aline, Gallanach Bay Muck, Loch Moidart Castle Tioram, Puilladadobhrain, Crinan, Wreck Bay and Rhu.

USVI’s: Caneel Bay (St. John); Francis Bay (St. John); Christmas Cove (Great St. James); Crown Bay Marina (St. Thomas); Waterlemon Bay (St. John) BVI’s: Soper’s Hole (Tortola) ; The Bight (Norman Island); Great Harbour (Peter Island); Trellis Bay (Tortola); Marina Cay; Cane Garden Bay (Tortola); Penns Landing – Fat Hog Bay (Tortola); Biras Creek (Gorda Sound); Bitter End Yacht Club (Gorda Sound); Reef Rock Marina – Road Town (Tortola). Antigua: Jolly Harbour; Deep Bay.

Highlights

We commissioned Shian in Trinidad in November 2014 and sailed North, enjoying a cruise in Grenada and the Grenadines, before spending Christmas in Bequia and New Year in St. Lucia. Early in January we cruised Martinique and then lingered in Dominica before making a long passage direct to the Virgin Islands. We had not visited the Virgins for 4 years and our return was both enjoyable and exciting. A mild winter season became very windy in early February and these exceptional winds persisted for 6 weeks. During this period Shian suffered serious rigging damage which, together with the weather, delayed our windward passage to Antigua. We eventually sailed East from the BVI’s in late March, making a direct passage to Antigua rather than stopping in Sint Maarten to rendezvous with cruising friends. Shian was hauled and stored in Jolly Harbour, Antigua on 30 March and we flew home for the summer on Good Friday. It was our first Easter ashore for 10 years.

Yacht name Streaker Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Crew Owned or chartered Home port Cruise dates

Northney 34 Sloop GBR2373 Andy Marjoribanks Anthony Trembath, David “Captain Ahab” McIntosh. (Combined age of all three well over 200 years) Owned Royal Gourock YC 16th – 23rd July 2015

Anchorages visited

Highlights

In spite of the poor weather we enjoyed an exceptional cruise.

Campbeltown; Ardrishaig; Puilladobhrain; Eilean na Cloiche, Lynn of Lorn; Cardingmill Bay, Oban; Port Ellen; Campbeltown; Rothesay

Yacht name Shian

Highlights

Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Olsen 40 GBR 7773T Paul and Jane Read Owned South Shian

Anchorages visited

Trinidad: Chaguaramus. Grenada: Prickly Bay; Tyrrel Bay (Carriacou). St. Vincent and the Grenadines: Clifton (Union Island); Chatham Bay (Union Island); Baradel (Tobago Cays); Admiralty Bay (Bequia). St Lucia: Marigot Bay; Rodney Bay. Martinique: St Anne; Le Marin; Fort de France; St. Pierre. Dominica: Prince Rupert’s Bay.

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After filling up with fuel and water at Kip we enjoyed a fast sail down to Campbeltown with the intention of rounding the Mull next morning. Unfortunately Belfast CG put us right off with a late night forecast of “Malin severe gale 9 imminent storm 10 soon” so next morning it was another high speed run, well reefed, up to Ardrishaig where we were greeted with “You’re only the third boat in today”. After an evening of pouring rain in the basin next morning was fine and sunny, and following a fast trip through the canal we had a cracking sail up the Sound of Luing with the tide, and into Puilldobhrain, only the fourth boat. Dinner at Tigh-An-Truish and the most gorgeous sunset over Mull, with accompaniment from our resident guitarist, Ahab. Next day, Sunday, we pottered up the Lynn of Lorn to a nice quiet anchorage, on a clear sandy bottom, North side of Eilean na Cloiche, East of Lismore,

Members’ Cruises 2015 then back to Oban onto a mooring at Cardingmill Bay. This was because Trembath had to get back to Falmouth so after dropping him by dinghy at the station steps next morning Streaker was turned South and after a long day’s beating against some pretty fresh Southerlies we tied up on the new finger pontoon in Port Ellen. After solid green over the bow for most of the afternoon we celebrated a twelve hour day with Caol Ila in the Ardview Inn. Tuesday saw us back round the Mull with the best sail of the day from Sanda right into Campbeltown. Ashore again for sixteen-year-old Springbank and an excellent dinner at the Ardshiel Hotel. Finished off the trip with a visit to Rothesay and a fast run up past Cloch to RGYC. Conclusion: wonderful cruise in spite of some foul weather, 303 nm and about 19 hours on the engine, including the canal.

En na Cloiche.

Yacht name Tangaroa Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

Pronavia 38 GBR1121L Des & Elizabeth Balmforth Owned Colintraive

Anchorages visited

Rhu, Inverkip, Caladh Harbour, Wreck Bay, Ferry Bay, Tighnabruaich, Port Bannatyne, Ardrishaig, Crinan, Pulladobhrain, Tobermory, Arnagour, Loch Aline, Loch Drumbuie, Gallanach Bay, Portavadie, Carry, Kames, Largs.

Highlights

We have spent our first season on Tangaroa getting to know the boat and its gear, as well as settling her onto her home mooring. The early season was taken up with working out how she handles round the race-course at Kip Regatta and Scottish Series before switching into cruising mode. The newness coupled with the dodgy weather in July meant we didn’t cruise quite as far as usual. That said, we had a great time sailing with Pinocchio and managed to get out to Coll and round Ardnamurchan. A real highlight was the Summer Ceilidh on Muck – a fantastic hoolie!

Yacht name Zaleda Type of Boat Sail number Owner or skipper Owned or chartered Home port

7 Metre Cruiser Racer built by McGuers in 1966 7CR/K2 Bill Hogg Owned Dartmouth

Anchorages visited

Dartmouth, Ile de Brehat, Paimpol, St Peter Port, Yarmouth, Cowes, Yarmouth, Weymouth and Salcombe. Kilbrannan sound.

Puilladobhrain sunset.

Highlights

This summer we entered two Classic Yacht Regattas which were both held in July on the South Coast. The Classic Cross Channel Regatta started with racing in Start Bay and then a passage race across the Channel from Dartmouth to Paimpol with entry of the 90 yachts to the harbour on 14th July – Bastille Day. The French really love their Classic Yachts and there were 25,000 of them to greet the fleet in Paimpol. Thereafter the regatta raced to St Peter Port – a 45 mile spinnaker run. The second regatta was the Panerai British Classic Yacht Regatta held in Cowes with the racing organised by the RYS – mainly raced around the marks in the Solent. Our best showing was in the Regatta Round the Island Race, when Zaleda came third in her class. Generally the winds in July on the South Coast were fresh with most racing involving reefed sails. We had great fun in these Regattas but Zaleda was built for the more sheltered waters of the Clyde and performs best in lighter winds. The two Classic Regattas were very well attended and any West Coast sailors with Classic yachts looking for lively and fun classic regattas should seriously consider coming South and entering.

Skip & crew.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 127

Journal Instructions

Cruising Logs • Length – from 1,000 to 3,000 words (maximum); 2,000 words makes a 4 page story, depending on photos. • Format – MS Word documents or text files, please do not embed any images or photos into these files (see Photos and Images below for image submission details). Logs should include: • A title page giving the name and full details for the yacht and the author; • Skipper name and crew list, with the ages of any younger members; • A summary of distances each day under sail, engine and motor-sailing for cruising competitions.

Member’s Cruises Make sure you download the ‘Anchorages visited’ template from the CCC website, www.clyde.org

Photos and Images Format – Images/photos should be in digital format (jpg, tiff, psd) and sent as high resolution files (upwards 1MB in file size is a good indication). Any photos not available in digital format, i.e. for historical articles, should be scanned to the highest resolution. Do not put images into a secondary format (such as placing them in a Word Document) as it reduces the quality. Do not reduce the file sizes. Once an image has been reduced we cannot increase it again without compromising the quality. If they are too big to send

all together, split them over a few emails or submit on USB or CD. If emailing images, please ensure your email program does not reduce the file size. Around 5 – 10 images per log would be sufficient. Please name and caption the photos in the order they appear in your log, for example “1 [Name of Boat]”, “2 [Name of Boat] Skip at wheel” or “3 [Name of Boat] picnic on beach” etc.

Submitting Logs and Photos All logs and photographs submitted in time will be considered for competition, including the photographic competition (Coruisk Trophy) unless the author requests otherwise. Particularly for junior logs, the content is much more important than the format. When assessing the cruising competitions the judges are empowered to use their discretion on the terms of each award. Please email your logs and photos to Jennifer Rolland at office@clyde.org, or submit them to the Clyde Cruising Club Office on USB or CD: Clyde Cruising Club, Suite 101, The Pentagon Centre, 36 Washington Street, Glasgow G3 8AZ.

DEADLINE FOR COMPETITION AND CLUB JOURNAL SUBMISSIONS IS 20TH OCTOBER 2016 Unfortunately, late submission has reduced the number of awards, so please be prompt. By submitting your logs and images you are agreeing that you own copyright, or have obtained permission from the copyright owner for them to be published in print and be accessible on the web by Clyde Cruising Club and the general public.

Editor’s Acknowledgements Welcome to your 2016 Journal Thank you for submitting all your interesting logs, I was especially exited to see three submitted by the younger members. Well done to Emilie, Anna and Tom and I look forward to reading more from the younger members next year. I would like to say a big thank you to all those that have helped me this year – Penny French, Thorold Mackie, Joanna Turner and my husband Des. It is great to have a team, working closely with DTech, to get the journal assembled and published. I would also like to say special thanks to Jennifer Rolland, Patrick Trust, the log judges (Ian Buchanan and Doug Bilsland) and proof-readers (Mike Johnston, John

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Watson, John and Alison Douglas, Freda Forbes and Helen Kirk) for all their time and hard work – very much appreciated. We had great fun sailing this summer on Tangaroa and are excited about next season. We enjoy the racing and cruising and this year Anna and Ross were dinghy sailing at Bardowie with their friends, which they really loved – thank you Sophie Taylor for all your time and patience. We try to support the club as much as we can as we feel it is important to build on all that the Club is achieving. Enjoy the read,

Lizzie Balmforth, Tangaroa

SAILING DIRECTIONS

– The Hard Work Involved By Barbara MacLeod

4 1. Meeting residents at the Saturday coffee morning, Aith Public Hall, West Shetland mainland. 2. Boat Tied Down – not an uncommon site in the Northern Isles. 3. Iain is gathering information from a local resident at the head of Ronas Voe, Shetland (North mainland). 4. Lerwick Harbour RNLI boots.

5. Lerwick Harbour Accommodation Boat.

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 129

Coruisk Trophy Winners

Valhalla of Ashton and Stargazer, Bute Race by Shona Shields.

Nature Category

Blue footed booby and Sea Iguana by David Bushby.

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Ashore and Afloat Category

Humour Category

Water fights in Tobermory. Tom Matthews, aged 7.

Atmospheric Category

Tomoko, not at Bardowie by Charlie Craig.

Dramatic Category

Blue Reflections by Neil Spurway.

Monkey Business at Reine, Lofoten Islands by Charlie Craig.

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Obituaries

Alastair Macdonald 1926-2015

lastair Macdonald was a first generation sailor but had been fascinated by boats and the sea all his life, starting with childhood holidays in Lossiemouth and many trips to Clydeside from his home in Rutherglen to see the ships on the river. When Alastair and Rita married in 1955, their holidays were mostly spent camping in Scotland but after Ian’s arrival the tent was traded in for a caravan with which they toured much of the West Coast. After a couple of years, building sandcastles lost some of its appeal

and they bought an 11 foot Gull dinghy which they carried on a roof-rack. They soon decided that they preferred sailing to caravanning so they sold the whole ensemble and bought a 25 ft Caravel cruising yacht Eala Mara. On the advice of friends who sailed, they joined Royal Gourock YC and moored Eala off the clubhouse at Ashton. Almost immediately they also joined the Clyde Cruising Club, taking part in many inshore passage races and they won a log prize for their first real West Coast cruise in 1966. In 1968 they were one of the early converts to fibreglass, buying a Trintella 29 Trineke which they cruised and raced successfully despite her arrival coinciding with that of daughter Morag. Alastair had been involved for many years in committees and associations including Rotary – he was a member for 52 years and was awarded the Paul Harris Fellowship in recognition of his huge contribution to Rotary – and the Glasgow Junior Chamber of Commerce where he was Secretary for a number of years, serving under a number of Presidents including CCC Past Commodore Peter Fairley. With this tradition in mind, Alastair willingly agreed when he was asked to join the CCC Committee and almost immediately to become the Editor of the Journal. In the low-tech Seventies, this was a

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labour intensive job with which all the family helped alongside the then printer who was none other than Alistair Vallance, now of Yachting Life. Alastair had joined the family engineering firm, M. Macdonald & Son, after graduating in 1953 and site visits took him the length and breadth of Scotland. In 1970, the company were asked to install a boiler system in the new seafood processing factory in Stromness in Orkney and Alastair combined the necessary visit with a family Easter holiday to Orkney. This started a long fascination with the Northern Isles and Trineke’s first cruise there was that summer. Alastair and Rita sold Trineke in 1974 and consulted Alfred Mylne about designing a larger cruising boat which could be built in steel in the company’s factory. The result was Stealaway, a 38 ft ketch which was launched in the long hot summer of 1976. During their year off while the plans and construction for Stealaway took shape, Alastair and Rita helped on one of the mark boats for the first Tomatin Trophy Series at Tobermory – Alastair was photographed being rowed to an event aboard one of the hospitality boats using an umbrella to protect him and Rita from the customary Tobermory weather! Many lessons had been learned during the design and construction of Stealaway and Alastair was itching to put them into practice with Mark II but a recession intervened and the second keel which had been made at the time of the original construction remained unused. Instead Alastair and Rita made a number of guest appearances on other boats at CCC events and after a very enjoyable (although wet!) Ladies and Cadets Muster at Wreck Bay in June 1980 they decided they couldn’t be without a boat any longer and bought Greymalkin, an Ohlson 35. Alastair raced Greymalkin successfully inshore and offshore with the Club and continued the pattern of cruises to the Northern Isles, West Coast and Ireland. He served as Rear Commodore in 1981-2 and Vice Commodore in 1983 and took part in many Club cruises in company, particularly to Dun Laoghaire and Bangor to join with

Obituaries the clubs there. He was then elected Commodore immediately after the 75th Anniversary Cruise in 1985 and served for the next two years. His main projects as Commodore were the successful transition from Tomatin to McEwans as sponsors of the Scottish Series and a Blue Water Trophy Race and cruise in company to Orkney in 1987. By this time Alastair and Rita were planning an altogether longer cruise to mark their retirement and they set off Southwards from the Clyde in May 1990 heading for sunnier waters. As far as most of their friends were concerned, they were going away for that summer only but among the immediate family they had planned for two years away. As it turned out, they stayed away for six years in all, living aboard Greymalkin almost all the time and making only two short trips home. They found many other like-minded sailors from many countries doing the same thing, the skippers and crews were able to help and encourage each other and many long-lasting friendships resulted. Alastair and Rita visited 20 countries during their cruise and wintered in Spain, Turkey (twice), Cyprus and Rome before returning to the Clyde on Tarbert Race weekend in August 1995. They won a cruising trophy for their accounts of the voyage in each year they were away culminating in the award of the Sunflower Salver in 1995. Having spent so long at sea, Alastair and Rita quite reasonably felt that they did not want to continue as boat owners when they returned home but Greymalkin remained in the family under the ownership of Ian and Catherine for many years. The Macdonald family tradition of service to the Club and yachting generally has continued into the next generation with both Ian and Morag serving as Racing Secretary and Ian also being a Flag Officer for four years and holding posts in other clubs and sailing organisations. Although they were not regular sailors over the next 20 years, Alastair and Rita remained closely interested in the progress of the Club and its events as reported to them by Ian and Morag, they attended many musters

and dinners and the Journal and Yearbook were always near at hand in their flat. Over the last five years or so, Alastair was not in good health but Rita and the family cared for him at home and he was still able to recount sailing incidents from many years ago. The last time Alastair was able to venture out of the flat was for a lunch with Rita and the immediate family to celebrate their Diamond Wedding Anniversary on 5th March. Alastair died peacefully in hospital on 17th May and was remembered by his many CCC friends at Scottish Series the next weekend as well as at his funeral in Glasgow the following week. By Ian Macdonald

Archie Black

18 September 1949 – 10 August 2015 Rear Commodore – 2000/2001 Vice Commodore – 2002

rchie and I became joint owners of Upstart, a Highlander 28, in November 1988 until 2001 when she was offered for sale, and sold in 2002. During this period of time I cannot recall a cross word from Archie – not so sure about myself. We took part in most of the CCC race calendar and soon included

participation in West Highland Week and Bangor Week. This was with a crew of 4 or 5 – Archie, Lynne, Dorothy, myself and regularly accompanied by accompanied by Kate Monighan. He enjoyed the social side of sailing to the full and made many friends this way. Competing in West Highland Week against a Starfish from Northern Ireland resulted in a lasting friendship with the crew of Fait Accompli. This friendship entailed us in completing in Bangor Week for several years culminating in a class win in 1988. Archie is fondly remembered by the Fait Accompli crew and was involved in much post race hilarity with them. Archie’s Merchant Navy training stood him in good stead as a navigator and his three bearing positions were always spot on and got us to Bangor as promised, although ‘DZ’ was always a challenge until Archie sussed out who had GPS in the fleet and just said “follow him and we won’t be far away.” A GPS was installed in Upstart next season! The pleasure and fun we all had over the years was enormous with close competition from Hanky Panky, Kendal of Kames, Pointer, Northern Comfort to name a few. We agreed to sell Upstart when Archie felt his back was no longer up to the demands of mast man on a 28 footer. His new vessel was a Nauticat 33, Grambinus (patron saint of beer allegedly) which Archie thought a fitting name. He and Lynn enjoyed her comfort for several years before his house in St. Catherines took over his interest, together with a sit on mower, a chainsaw for his log burning stove and his new found sport, clay pigeon shooting, put and end to his sailing! He continued to support the CCC with a spell as Vice and Rear Commodore and later in assisting with the publication side of the Club. Archie will be fondly remembered by many of the sailing fraternity for his good humour, sociability and huge enjoyment of the sailing scene, in which he was so involved during the 80s and 90s. By Stewart Ritchie

Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016 133

Obituaries with racing events. During the late eighties and nineties, Robert and Mavis were regular volunteers at ‘The Scottish Series’. Robert latterly, being the man with the prestigious job of posting up the daily racing results. For many years, he was the CCC Archive Officer and for his services to the Club, was awarded the Irish Cruising Club Decanter. Apart from sailing, Robert loved music, poetry, dance and rugby. He occasionally travelled to other parts of the world and within the UK to visit his daughters and their families but, his heart was always on the West Coast. In his eyes, a holiday was not a holiday unless he had been to Loch na Droma Buidhe, preferably with a fresh mackerel on his plate, a wee dram and a beautiful West Coast sunset. A stroke at the start of the 2001 Scottish Series, ended Robert’s sailing days, although not his interest in the Clyde Cruising Club. He continued to enjoy reading and hearing about the club events and was still able to visit some of his old sailing haunts by car. He was never happier than, when in John Masefield’s words, he was able to: ‘go down to the sea again to the lonely sea and sky’, that was where Robert was happiest. Robert died, aged 84, at the Glasgow Royal Infirmary, on the 7th June 2015 and is greatly missed by those who knew and loved him so well. By Heather Paterson

obert was a life member of the Clyde Cruising Club. Born into a sailing family, it was not long before ‘messing about on the river’ became his passion. From a very early age, his summer Saturday job was to row across the Holy Loch from the family home at Strone, to collect the racing instructions, prior to racing with his father on their Scottish Island, Bernera. Not only did he race with his father, but he also raced for his school, ‘The Glasgow Academy’. Following national service in the Royal Navy, he trained in accountancy and worked in insurance before joining his father in the family oil distribution business – ‘The Scottish Lubricating Oil

Company’ – which he then owned and ran until his retirement. In 1956, Robert married his Yorkshire lass, Mavis, introducing her to the wonders of sailing not only on the Clyde, but also sailing on the Scottish West Coast. Three daughters followed: Catriona, Heather and Elizabeth and they too developed their father’s love of the nautical world. The family sailed on a succession of craft: a converted Loch Fyne Skiff, Jessie Jane; the MV Kistna; Bermudian Sloop, Torfrida of Reine; until wood gave way to fibreglass and the Moody 33, Minimus, was purchased. Robert and family were regular attendees of CCC cruising and racing events not just on the Clyde, but also on the West Coast and at Barra, Stornoway and Orkney. Robert volunteered and supported the Club at cruising musters and

John Smillie

Ross Dalgetty

John Wintersgill

Member of CCC died Jan 2015 in his 80th year

Member of CCC Died Oct 2014 in his 84th year

Life Member Died 7th March 2015

Sandy Angus

Harry Gardner

Jim Pitts

Life Member died 8th Feb 2015 in his 78th year

Life Member Died 20th Oct 2014, aged 92

Farmer and Sailor Outport Member of CCC Died September 2015

Robert Sharp 1930 – 2015

134 Clyde Cruising Club Journal 2016

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