DuJour Fall 2015 by DuJour Media

FALL 2015 CHICAGO / DALLAS-FORT WORTH / HOUSTON / LAS VEGAS / LOS ANGELES / MIAMI / NEW YORK / ORANGE COUNTY / SAN FRANCISCO / WASHINGTON, D.C.

SEVEN DOLLARS FALL 2015

BERMUDA BOUND PREPPING FOR THE AMERICA’S CUP WITH TEAM ORACLE PRIM AND PROPER 2.0 REVAMPING LADYLIKE ACCESSORIES

MALE BONDING

Life after Dr. Brandt: In search of the social set’s next face guru

DANIEL CRAIG with David Bailey and Martin McDonagh

DUJOUR.COM

Instagram’s richest kids and fall’s textured fashion

T H E

S H E A R L I N G

C O L L E C T I O N

R A L P H L A U R E N . C O M

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B O U T I Q U E S.

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U N F O L L O W L I K E E R I N N O M A D I C P U B L I S H E R

D R ESS CA LV I N K LEI N

SW E AT E R C ED R IC C H A R LI E R

S H O ES PI E R R E H A R DY

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THE CLOUD D E S I G N E D B Y T I M O T H Y O U LT O N / E N G L A N D

From left to right: Maje jacket and dress, Longchamp bag Alice + Olivia blouse and skirt Tory Burch blouse, skirt and bag Sandro dress Maximilian fur jacket, Cynthia Rowley pant, Diane von Furstenberg bag Dylan Gray dress Gerard Darel coat Furs labeled to show country of origin of imported fur.

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Uncommon destinations Unforgettable moments. Explore hidden harbors and marquee ports on the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest small-ship cruise line.

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Ginger Brokaw - “I defne my neighborhood as the

Upper East Side, where I live and represent a great majority of my business. It is really difcult to pick just one neighborhood as my favorite because there are so many that I get to experience on a day-to-day basis. I

cannot think of another city in the world that has the same energy. Each neighborhood has a diferent vibe and brings its own uniqueness to New York City. It is the collection of these neighborhoods and the people within them that make this town. New York City is my town.”

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Ginger Brokaw, New York City Power Broker

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table of contents LIFE 68

MY FIRST PIECE OF ART

ROCKING THE BOAT

TOP NOTCH

SOLAR POWERED

Tommy Hilfiger reminisces about the lithographs that stole his heart

STYLE 47

CARBON LOADING

Forget copies. This season’s carbonbased watches are true originals 48

THE END OF GENDER?

STYLE NEWS

Androgynous models make us rethink sexual appeal

GRAY MATTERS

Striking styles this fall aren’t black or white, but somewhere in between 60 BECOMING BRIONI

A new book uncovers the story of one of Italy’s most celebrated houses 62

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Why one celebrity-designed line takes off while another flops

Mastering the art of the wellcurated coffee table

164

THE UNSTOPPABLE CHIWETEL EJIOFOR

Shining a light on the cult of eclipse chasers

BODY 78

DOCTORS, INC.

Integrative medicine is the wave of the future. But does practicing it cost physicians income?

PLAY 84

Gramercy Moto jacket, price upon request, MARC NEW YORK BY ANDREW MARC, andrewmarc.com. Sweater, price upon request, OLIVER SPENCER, oliverspencer.co.uk.

WHEEL SMART

Ferrari’s quick-thinking 488 GTB shifts into the future 86 INSTA-FAMOUS

A curated crew of privileged friends is serious about leveraging social media 90 MEN IN BLACK

On the brink of the world’s most high-profile sailing race, Oracle Team USA has Bermuda buzzing 98

INSTANT GRATIFICATION

Keeping it retro with cooler-thanInstagram instant cameras

100 FOR THE LOVE OF MONEY

The stakes are getting higher for the fans, and the creators, of fantasy sports sites

On the cover Coat, $5,850, HERMÈS, hermes.com. Boat Builder funnel neck sweater, $460, ANDERSON & SHEPPARD, anderson-sheppard.co.uk. Photographed by David Bailey; styled by Luke Day.

102 WAITER, THERE’S A DRUMSTICK IN MY COCKTAIL

It was only a matter of time before leftovers landed in our drinks

132

DOMAINE DARLING

TOP TO BOTTOM: ADAM WHITEHEAD. MATTHIEU SALVAING.

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Saluting army green; budding floral superstars; new American designers

Setting sail with complete strangers has never been more appealing

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table of contents FEATURES

118

KATHERINE THE GREAT

128 MALE BONDING

Daniel Craig has spent nearly a decade portraying the world’s most famous spy. But a conversation on the eve of the new film Spectre reveals a complicated relationship between James Bond and the movie star who plays him. By Martin McDonagh; photographed by David Bailey 132 DOMAINE DARLING

On the grounds of Provence’s artfilled Domaine des Andéols, you’ll find a century’s worth of family history. By Ian Phillips; photographed by Matthieu Salvaing 140 LADY LIKE

From a discreet brooch to a high-class handbag, accessories once deemed prim reveal a romantic side. Photographed by Jessica Craig-Martin

106 THE FLIP SIDE OF SCOOTER BRAUN

Is music’s most controversial mogul really just a mensch? 110 PLATE EXPECTATIONS

Masayoshi Takayama creates New York’s most luxurious sushi and the dishes it’s served upon 112 THE RISING STAR OF DAVID

Architect David Adjaye’s greatest undertaking seems to be building a better future

CULTURE Musette cardigan, $845, MAX MARA, 212-8796100. Trousers, $1,330, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, 212-334-1010. L’Heure du Diamant Collection necklace in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, price upon request, CHOPARD, chopard.com.

116 THE AGITATOR

Artist Walead Beshty and the inspiration of chance 118 KATHERINE THE GREAT

With Steve Jobs, Katherine Waterston’s star is on the rise 120 LEADING THE WAY

Broadway’s actor-director teams on what it takes to stage a hit

Losing a doctor is never easy. When it’s a dermatologist beloved by the A-list worldwide, it’s a “Now what?” catastrophe. By Lynn Schnurnberger 150 SETTING THE TONE

With intense colors, fall’s makeup collections get down to detail. Photographed by Guido Mocafico 158 ALL ABOUT TAMARA

When this heiress fashioned her dream home, she had one priority: create a comfort zone. By Stephen Heyman; photographed by Simon Watson 164 THE UNSTOPPABLE CHIWETEL EJIOFOR

Following fall’s most in-demand actor to the apocalypse. By Adam Rathe; photographed by Adam Whitehead 166 MORE THAN A FEELING

This season’s tactile textures, apparent in chunky knits and sumptuous furs, put sublimely touchable style within reach. Photographed by Cedric Buchet 178 GRAPES AND WRATH

Napa has experienced a crack in its genteel façade. Could the bloody scene at Dahl Vineyards speak to the future of American winemaking? By Jesse Hyde

PETER ASH LEE

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WORK

146 LIFE AFTER DR. BRANDT

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table of contents 140 LADY LIKE

CITIES 186 CHICAGO

RH’s Windy City makeover; designer cocktails; Tiffany & Co.’s watch salon 188 DALLAS

Grooming, Texas-style; can’t-miss culture, Dallas learns Japanese 189 HOUSTON

Culinary empires expanding; H-town skin-care gurus; sipping local whiskey 191 LAS VEGAS

The Cosmopolitan’s new chief; off-the-strip eats; the Vegas space race 193 LOS ANGELES

Jacket, price upon request, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, 866-337-7242. Tank, $535; Hat, $990, LANVIN, Saks Fifth Avenue, 212-9404465. Pleiades ear clips, $22,500, VERDURA,

195 MIAMI

A spa day at the Fontainebleau; Miami’s Iberian culinary invasion 198 NEW YORK

Manhattan’s menswear moment; the must-have nightlife app; getting glam on demand 202 HAMPTONS

Handmade goods for sale by the seashore; new salons and workouts

BACK PAGE 216 FAMOUS LAST WORDS

Despite rebellious handwriting, rocker Boy George shows off a softer side

212-758-3388. Barocco Collar necklace in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $29,000, ROBERTO COIN, robertocoin.com. Right hand: Adonis Rose band, price upon request; Adonis Rose Cluster ring, price upon request, DE BEERS, debeers.com. Boyfriend watch in 18-karat beige gold, $14,500, CHANEL , 800-550-0005. Left hand: Tempo Narrow ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $5,400, DAVID YURMAN, davidyurman.com. On lips: Silky satin lipstick in Miss Loubi, $90, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, christianlouboutin.com.

204 TRI-STATE

A Chester retreat; fashionable dining in Litchfield 208 ORANGE COUNTY

An edible local business; Charlotte Olympia moves in 209 SAN FRANCISCO

Hublot hits Union Square; getting the Bay Area’s best hair 211 WASHINGTON, D.C.

Loudon County vineyards; a stay with Sheila Johnson 212 PARTIES

Snapshots from DuJour celebrations honoring Charlie Rose, Gayle King, Rob Gronkowski and more

MEN IN BLACK

TOP TO BOTTOM: JESSICA CRAIG-MARTIN. STEVEN BRAHMS.

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L.A.’s new wave of nightlife; reinventing iconic eateries

Tod’s Boutiques: 800.457.TODS

LETTER FROM THE CEO

Jason Binn

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s we start another fall, I can only hope everyone had as much fun this summer as we did here at DuJour. We kicked off the summer in May at our Memorial Day party in the Hamptons at Richie Notar’s Harlow East. Of course, that was a blast. Then in July we threw a party for the gregarious Patriots superstar Rob Gronkowski as well as Bruce Weber, the legendary photographer who shot him for our summer issue. Strategic Group’s Jason Strauss and Noah Tepperberg’s Lavo was the perfect space for the revelry, which lasted into the wee hours thanks to help from our partners, Absolute Elyx, Casa de Campo and Wheels Up. There was definitely dancing. In other news, I’m excited to announce the October launch of our special “Gamechangers” issue, which celebrates forward thinkers, innovators and brand stewards who will shape the next year and beyond— reinventing the future landscapes of art, design, culture, fashion and entertainment. We thought it was the ideal time to think about these things, as we enter our fourth year as a magazine. Since we launched, not only has our print magazine exceeded our greatest expectations, but our digital team has as well, enabling our traffic to grow at an exponential rate—a 60 percent increase year over year in average unique monthly visitors. In fact, May and June were consecutively the second and third highest months for traffic that we’ve had to date. Looking ahead, there’s plenty to be excited about this season, and I’m sure you’ll find it all in the pages of our fall issue. Summer might be over, but at DuJour there’s always plenty to look forward to.

Jason Binn Twitter: jasonbinn • Instagram: jasonbinn

BEHIND THE VELVET ROPES

BINNSHOTS

1. Alina Cho 2. CEO of Galvanized Brands David Zinczenko, Jason Binn, Sunshine Sachs’ Shawn Sachs and The Naughty Diet’s Melissa Milne 3. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour, Blaine Trump and Jason Binn 4. Harlan Cherniak, Wheels Up CEO Kenny Dichter, Eugene Remm, Tony Abrams and Jason Binn 5. Serious Skincare’s Jennifer Flavin Stallone, Sylvester Stallone and Sistine Stallone 6. Invicta’s Eyal Lalo 7. Michael Kors 8. Claude Baruk 9. Tommy Hilfiger’s Eric Lichtmess 10. Hermès’ Alicia Washburn and Peter Malachi 11. Wedding and event planner Colin Cowie

STELLA

McCARTNEY

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HANDPICKED

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Alan Chartash Alicia Washburn Andrea Sanders Anne Hamilton Bernadette Knight Bill McBeath Billy Paretti Brent Lamberti Brian Steel Carol Boyd Caroline Dura Caroline Nype Cassandra Grey Christine Beauchamp Christophe de Pous Cliff Fleiser Colin Cowie Cornelia Guest Dan Galpern Daniel Lombardi Daniel Minkowitz David Blumenfeld Edouard d’Arbaumount Elaine Wynn Elias Alcantara Emilie Neri Emily Labejof Eric Lichtmess Eric Logan Gena Smith Geoffrey Hess Gideon Kimbrell Graziano de Boni Harvey Spevak Iesha Reed Jared Cohen Jason Pomeranc Jean-Marc Jacot Jim Mullaney Johanan Merino John Demsey

John Kaufman Jonas Tåhlin Joseph Meyer Judith Stone Junny Ann Hibbert Kenny Dichter Laura Drage Libby Conover Lynn Reid Matt Rice Melissa Katz Meryl Poster Michael Capponi Michael Dickey Michael Ogurick Misty Gant Nicole Oge Nina Lawrence Pauline Brown Pavan Pardasani Peter Malachi Phil Auerbach Rayon Black Rica Roman Richard Kirshenbaum Rob Berman Robert Schienberg Roland Enderli Ruthie Mink Sandy Golinkin Shaul Nakash Stephane Barraque Stephanie Smith Stephen Colvin Stewart Bain Tom Jarrold Tom Roberts Valerio D’Ambrosio Wendy Maitland Xavier Nolot Zach Overton

11. Jewelry designer Jennifer Miller, Mark Miller 12. Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Memorial Art Gallery director Jonathan Binstock 13. Mikimoto’s Meyer Hoffman, Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry’s Geoff Hess 14. CEO of Griffon Corp. Ron Kramer and Stephanie Kramer 15. Roberto Coin’s Peter Webster 16. Real estate developer Michael Shvo 17. Sean John’s Jeff Tweedy and Gucci’s Christophe de Pous 18. TZP Group’s Dan Galpern 19. Furla’s Jim Mullaney 20. Ivanka Trump, Jason Binn and Ivana Trump 21. The Light Group’s Andy Masi, Jason Binn and Andrew Sasson 22. Douglas Elliman’s Howard Lorber and Cornelia Guest 23. Designer Jason Wu and Donna Karan’s Caroline Brown 24. Vice president of Philip Stein Ruthie Mink 25. Elaine Wynn and Couture director Gannon Brousseau 26. Karin Sadove and Marvin Traub Associates’ Steve Sadove 27. DuJour’s Isabelle McTwigan, TW Steel’s founder and CEO Jordy Cobelens

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ed letter

Thoughts DuJour

t’s hard to resist giving Caitlyn Jenner all the credit for bringing the topic of gender ﬂuidity so firmly into everyday conversation, but let’s not forget: Fashion has long pushed the boundaries of identity—gender and otherwise. As Lynn Yaeger reports, many of fall’s best collections, which debuted before Jenner’s announcement, questioned the longevity of gender segregation in clothing. Seems it won’t be long before the “women’s department” and the “men’s department” are replaced by one big, happy department. At the same time, there are certain aspects—stereotypes, maybe—of masculinity and femininity that we can’t help but stand solidly behind. Like the notion of male bonding, which was in prominent display in our cover collaboration among three of Brit culture’s manlier men: photographer David Bailey, playwright Martin McDonagh and actor Daniel Craig. In a chat that took place in London and got saltier as the night wore on, McDonagh and Craig discuss sports, women, tequila and what to drink the morning after far too much of it. About 950 miles away, automotive editor Paul Biedrzycki was given the rare and enviable chance to take Ferrari’s new 488 GTB through the carmaker’s legendary Fiorano Circuit (that’s him, up top, behind the wheel). And as Lindsay Silberman found when she traveled to Bermuda to meet America’s Cup defenders Oracle Team USA, there’s plenty of ruggedness beneath those clean-cut sailor-boy exteriors. And yet, there is no singular notion of man, or woman—not anymore. Like most modern men, the

guys in our issue weren’t afraid to show their softer sides, too. In “The Flip Side of Scooter Braun,” music’s most controversial manager—he’s the guy who brought us Bieber—gets sentimental about fatherhood as well as his desire to succeed as one of the industry’s nice guys. Turns out, he tells writer Mickey Rapkin, “you don’t have to be that asshole.” Revolutionary! That said, there’s plenty of high, unabashed femininity on display in this issue too. My favorite might be our exclusive look at the London house of Formula One heiress Tamara Ecclestone—if the word “house” can adequately describe the “temple to glamorous celebration,” complete with season-themed closets, photographs of Brigitte Bardot and personalized jars of Nutella, in which she makes her home. That’s not to say the boys don’t also appreciate a good spoonful of Nutella, straight out of the jar, now and then. The best part about blurring the lines between the genders is that these days, we can, and do, pick and choose our favorite parts of each. This fall and always, may your possibilities be limitless.

Nicole Vecchiarelli NV@DuJour.com • Instagram: editor_nv

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: STEVEN BRAHMS, COURTESY OF FERRARI, DAVID BAILEY, THOMAS WHITESIDE.

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Clockwise from left: An Oracle Team boat in Bermudian waters; taking the new Ferrari 488 GTB for a spin around the Fiorano Circuit in Maranello, Italy; Daniel Craig, the “blondest Bond.”

STUARTWEITZMAN.COM

Editor in Chief Nicole Vecchiarelli

Executive Editor Nancy Bilyeau

CEO/Publisher Jason Binn

Art Director Natalie Do

Editor at Large Alyssa Giacobbe

Managing Editor Natalia de Ory

Vice President, Business Development Isabelle McTwigan Executive Directors Phil Witt Michelle Koruda

FEATURES

FASHION/BEAUTY/HOME

Features Editor Adam Rathe

Market Director Sydney Wasserman

Senior Editor Lindsay Silberman

Fashion Market Editor Paul Frederick

Research Editor Ivy Pascual

Fashion Assistant Meaghan Hartland

Advertising Sales Offices Janet Suber (Los Angeles) Sylvie Durlach, S&R Media (France) Susy Scott (Italy)

DUJOUR CITIES

Senior Executive Assistant Brianna Calabrese

Editorial Assistant Frances Dodds

Deputy Editor Natasha Wolff

ART + PHOTO Photo Editor Etta Meyer Art Assistant Bryan Vargas

Regional Editors Holly Crawford (Houston), Holly Haber (Dallas), Scott Huver (Los Angeles and Orange County), Korey Karnes Huyler (Chicago), Rebecca Kleinman (Miami), David Nash (San Francisco), Andy Wang (Las Vegas)

Senior Account Executives Gwen Beckham Adriana Martone

Administrative Assistant Maggie Miles Sales Assistant Stefanie LaGalia Assistant to Vice President, Business Development Sara Strumwasser Marketing Director Julia Light Marketing Manager Jen Goldenberg

Creative Consultant David Sebbah for Spring Studios

Marketing Associate Jennifer Lentol Designer Victoria Barna

DUJOU R .COM

SALES Executive Vice President, Global Sales Marc Berger

DUJOUR.COM Chief Digital Officer Jay Blades

Chief Advisor Louis Cona

Director of Technology Devario Johnson Digital Editor Eden Univer

Social Media Editor Alisha Prakash

Web Developer G. Leo Fulgencio

Senior Web Producer Julianne Mosoff Web Assistant Jessica Khorsandi

Contributors Alex John Beck, Patricia Bosworth, Cedric Buchet, Anne Christensen, Grant Cornett, Arthur Elgort, Douglas Friedman, Kyoko Hamada, Henry Hargreaves, Ros Okusanya (Casting), Mickey Rapkin, Rhonda Riche, Bruce Weber, Lynn Yaeger Contributing Editors Paul Biedrzycki (Automotive), Nick Earhart (Copy), Chloe Weiss Galkin (Art), Lauren Kill (Photo), Marisa Ryan (Copy) Interns Katherine Banks, Margot Bonomo, Ryan Castelli, Christina Yelin Chung, Carly Fisher, Kaitlyn Frey, Yukiko Fujii, Johanna Li, Nicole Marshall, Meghan Sullivan

PRODUCTION Mobile/Print & Operations, Director Shawn Lowe Senior Pre-Media Manager John Francesconi IT Manager Jacob Swimmer Production Manager Matt Reuschle Production Intern Adam Sareen Print Consultant CALEV Print Media Paper Sourcing Aaron Paper

FINANCE Finance Manager Michael Rose

Assistant Controller Dahlia Nussbaum

Chief Financial Officer Stephanie Cabral-Choudri

Chairman Kevin Ryan

General Counsel John A. Golieb

Board Advisors Dan Galpern Matt Witheiler

DuJour (ISSN 2328-8868) is published four times a year by DuJour Media Group, LLC., 2 Park Avenue, NYC 10016, 212-683-5687. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to DuJour magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right to edit. Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, photographs and drawings. Copyright ÂŠ 2015 DuJour Media Group, LLC. For a subscription to DuJour magazine, go to subscribe.dujour.com, call 954-653-3922 or e-mail duj@themagstore.com.

www.brunellocucinelli.com 877 3308100

Nature does nothing in vain — ARISTOTLE —

Laurence Hovart and Guido Mocafico “Setting the Tone,” p. 150

When the opportunity to collaborate with her longtime friend, still life photographer Guido Mocafico, came up, Laurence Hovart jumped at the chance. “I’ve been working with Guido since the ’90s and admire his magisterial talent,” says the French beauty editor. The result was a stunning showcase of this season’s best beauty products that, she says, “concentrated on the sensations of colors.” It seems that when it comes to the duo’s collaborations, the feeling of admiration is mutual. When asked what inspired the shoot, Mocafico’s answer was simple: “Laurence Hovart.”

DAVID BAILEY

JESSICA CRAIG-MARTIN

“Male Bonding,” p. 128

“Lady Like,” p. 140

The East London–born David Bailey has captured some of the greatest names in fashion and entertainment during his almost six decades behind the camera—from Diana Vreeland to Mick Jagger and even HRH Queen Elizabeth II. The photographer, who shot cover star Daniel Craig on location in London, was glad to reunite with the Spectre star, whom he has previously photographed. “He’s still the same nice guy he was at the beginning,” says Bailey.

Photographer Jessica Craig-Martin shares a special connection with the New York City neighborhood where she shot this season’s must-have accessories. “When I was 10 years old, Forsyth Street was the catwalk for transvestite prostitutes,” she recalls. “They wore sequined hot pants and feather boas, and they were so fabulous.” While the area may have changed, for Craig-Martin, whose work has appeared in Vanity Fair and i-D, it hasn’t lost a bit of its appeal. “I enjoyed the dichotomy between glamour and grit and making those two kinds of beauty clash.” SOUP DUJOUR:

Gazpacho

SOUP DUJOUR:

Contributors

Vegetable

Getting to know some of the talent behind the issue—lunch orders and all WRITTEN BY NATALIA DE ORY

HOVART, MOCAFICO: COURTESY (2). BAILEY: DAVID BAILEY. CRAIG-MARTIN: AGENT Q.

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SOUP DUJOUR: “Oh, I never eat soup,” says Hovart. “Much too regressive for me!”

JIMMYCHOO.COM

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contributors PAUL BIEDRZYCKI “Wheel Smart,” p. 84

For automotive editor Paul Biedrzycki, getting behind the wheel of the latest cars is less a perk than part of the job. But scoring an invitation to the Fiorano Circuit, Ferrari’s private racetrack near Bologna, was a definite coup. During the test drive, an on-site doctor recorded his biometrics as a way of showing Biedrzycki the rigorous level of training and expertise required for professional driving. “According to the data,” he says, “my pulse and oxygen intake were nearly double those of a Ferrari test driver.” SOUP DUJOUR:

Tonkotsu ramen

KARLA MARTINEZ DE SALAS

Steven Brahms “Men in Black,” p. 90

For photographer Steven Brahms, who traveled to Bermuda to document Team Oracle in training for the America’s Cup, the attraction to the island was instant. “Everyone was so welcoming,” he says. “It doesn’t take long to get hooked when you’re going 20 mph on a chase boat.” Brahms, who has shot for Vogue and the New York Times, also wanted to capture the essence of the island community. “I loved seeing the groups of local schoolkids wearing colorful uniforms as we rode through the streets on mopeds.” SOUP DUJOUR:

“We wanted this woman to be slightly out of her element, with a sense of discomfort almost like the character in The Birds,” Karla Martinez de Salas says of the inspiration behind styling runway fashion in a karaoke bar in Lower Manhattan. For Martinez de Salas, a former accessories and market editor at W and Interview, part of the fun was getting to know the locals. “The ladies working there were eating an entire fish,” she says. “It didn’t look appetizing to me, but they couldn’t have been happier.” SOUP DUJOUR:

Mexican

tortilla

Matzo ball

ETTA MEYER “Men in Black,” p. 90

“Bermudians might just be the friendliest people on earth,” muses DuJour photo editor Etta Meyer. During her trip to the island she met sailors, hoteliers and rum heirs, all of whom shared “a firm belief in pastel.” While Bermuda might seem like a world away, it’s easy to get into the local mind-set, Meyer says. “It takes two hours to get there from New York and about six hours to go completely native.” SOUP DUJOUR:

JESSE HYDE “Grapes and Wrath,” p. 178

“I’m always attracted to stories about ambition, even failed ambition,” says writer Jesse Hyde, who traveled to Napa to investigate the tragic tale of vintner Robert Dahl. “I’ve done a lot of crime reporting, and it’s comforting to think that the awful things humans do to each other only happen in places where people have few options,” he says. “The truth is, it can happen anywhere, even in an American idyll like Napa. It’s important to be reminded now and again.” Hyde’s work has also appeared in Details and Rolling Stone. SOUP DUJOUR:

Thai coconut

Jambalaya

BIEDRZYCKI: COURTESY. MEYER: NICHOLAS PIKE. MARTINEZ DE SALAS: STEVEN PAN. HYDE, BRAHMS: COURTESY (2).

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“Lady Like,” p. 140

Jason Derulo The singer opens up in this exclusive interview about past relationships, his future in music and what makes him the industry’s most successful chameleon.

Right: Suit, price upon request, DOLCE & GABBANA , Madison Los Angeles, 855-745-9900. Shirt, price upon request, GIVENCHY, Madison Los Angeles. Loafers, $1,590, TOM FORD, 888-866-3673. Earrings, Derulo’s own.

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Below: Cape, $6,750, SACAI , Dover Street Market, 646-837-7750. Taro sweater, $945, MAX MARA , 212-879-6100.

FALL FASHION

An inside look at top trends in men’s and women’s fashion from the runways of New York, Paris, Milan and London.

DOWNLOAD DUJOUR TO YOUR IPHONE, IPAD AND ANDROID NOW

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DON’T MISS OUT!

On stands this fall and throughout 2016, DuJour’s special issue Gamechangers celebrates the people, places, things and ideas that alter the way we live and think—the ground-breakers you need to know about in fashion, technology, design, travel, entertainment and more.

TOP TO BOTTOM: ERIC RAY DAVIDSON; CEDRIC BUCHET

Gamechangers

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IWC PORTOFINO. TIME TO REMEMBER.

IWC Portofino Automatic Moonphase 37. Ref. 459001: As early as the 1950s and 60s, the stars of the silver screen fell in love with a small town on the Italian Riviera that was soon to become world-famous: Por tofino. The picturesque fishing village’s incomparable charm and the stories that grew up around it have ensured that it retains the magic and cachet that attract the rich and beautiful to the dolce vita: the sweet life. Every Portofino watch recaptures the glamour of both past and present. For the first time ever, this attitude to life is radiated by a Portofino collection from IWC with a slightly smaller, 37-millimetre case, whose grace and elegance are reflected in every detail. In the polished

surfaces of the case and the sunburst pattern on the dials, for instance, which not only underscore the watch’s luxurious appearance but are also an expression of outstanding craftsmanship. Its precision is reaffirmed by a delicate moon phase display. In much the same vein, the selected gemstones that ornament the bezels and dials are reminiscent of the star-studded sky on a balmy Italian summer evening. With its consummate beauty, this Portofino encapsulates the timeless, unhurried charm of southern Europe and could almost have been made”especially for life’s most pre cious mome nts, for those time s we look back on with infinite fondness.

ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. All artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s or architectural renderings, sketches, graphic materials and photos depicted or otherwise described herein are proposed and conceptual only, and are based upon preliminary development plans, which are subject to change. This is not an offering in any state in which registration is required but in which registration requirements have not yet been met. This advertisement is not an offering. It is a solicitation of interest in the advertised property. No offering of the advertised units can be made and no deposits can be accepted, or reservations, binding or non-binding, can be made in New York until an offering plan is filed with the New York State Department of Law.

Introducing IntroducingPalazzo PalazzoDel DelSol. Sol. 47 47new newwaterfront waterfrontcondominium condominiumresidences residenceson on celebrated celebratedFisher FisherIsland. Island.AAhaven havenof ofprivacy privacy and exclusivity, minutes from South Beach and exclusivity, minutes from South Beachand and the cultural attractions of Miami, with superbly the cultural attractions of Miami, with superbly curated curatedbuilding buildingamenities amenitiesand and6-star 6-star white-glove services. white-glove services. Priced from $6.5 million to $35 million.

Priced representatives from $6.5 million to will $35 million. Development be in Chicago Now Nowunder underconstruction construction nd th September 22 25 , 2015. On-site sales pavilion: 305 535 6071 On-site sales pavilion: 305 535 6071 info@palazzodelsol.com info@palazzodelsol.com| | palazzodelsol.com palazzodelsol.com One Island OneFisher Fisher IslandDrive, Drive, Contact 305.613.2118 Fisher FisherIsland, Island,Florida Florida33109 33109

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Priced from $6.5 million to $35 million. Now under construction On-site sales pavilion: 305 535 6071 info@palazzodelsol.com | palazzodelsol.com One Fisher Island Drive, Fisher Island, Florida 33109

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Carbon Loading

Forget copies. This season’s most impressive carbon-based watches are true originals PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAMIE CHUNG

From left, BR-X1 Carbone Forgé, price upon request, BELL & ROSS, bellross.com. Steel Evo, price upon request, TECHNOMARINE, technomarine.com. Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, price upon request, AUDEMARS PIGUET, audemarspiguet.com. VR|46 Tech, price upon request, TW STEEL , twsteel.com.

CARBON IS THE SECOND MOST COMMON ELEMENT IN THE HUMAN BODY AND THE FOURTH MOST COMMON ELEMENT IN THE UNIVERSE.

style

hen Caitlyn Jenner in that scrumptious corset slithered onto the cover of Vanity Fair, she ignited a rousing national chorus of cheers (and of course, some dumb jeers as well). While most of America may have been stunned by Jenner’s candor, a gender ﬂuidity, whether it reﬂects a deeply felt conviction or just a more playful desire to stick out your tongue at ancient sartorial conventions, had already made an impact in the fashion industry, as we question who gets to wear what, and where.

when outliers like Kurt Cobain in his baby-doll dress and Kanye West in the controversial leather kilt by Givenchy that he sported at the Hurricane Sandy beneﬁt raised a collective eyebrow. It all seems so simple now! As Jared Leto explained to CNN’s Alina Cho in an interview way back in 2011, “I like wearing skirts, I like wearing kilts ... I wear mostly Prada pencil skirts now. I like to do the things that make me feel good, and that make me feel happy, that don’t hurt other people.” Plenty of the youngest, most exciting designers think it’s frankly nuts to separate their offerings by gender. Shayne Oliver, the 26-year-old genius behind

The End of Gender?

As designers embrace a new fluidity, androgynous models make us rethink sexual appeal WRITTEN BY LYNN YAEGER

Trans-mission Looks from the Gucci fall 2015 collection.

There’s no doubt that Jenner’s historic transformation came at the culmination of a year that has seen not just great leaps forward in the arena of transgender rights, but a corresponding liberation on fashion runways. High-end collections from New York to Milan, London to Paris, featured male models sneaking onto women’s runways, and vice versa. At Gucci, brandnew creative director Alessandro Michele, showing his first collection for the house, threw out the hallowed Tom Ford/Frida Giannini code, replacing sex-on-aplate with a rather more plebeian repast meant for chiseled, androgynous escapees from the L train. At Givenchy’s menswear show, a male model sported a crimson lace shirt suitable for a bride who wore red; at Chanel’s couture gathering, the opening act featured guys in linen gardener’s ensembles watering giant flowers that opened up. (It was pretty cute–maybe you had to be there.) And over at Prada, Miuccia left a manifesto on each chair that declared, “Gender is a context and context is often gendered.” (Prada’s commitment to this brave new world is seemingly open-ended—word is that the brand’s latest perfume is bias-free. “Gender-based products are very clichéoriented,” Daniela Andrier of Givaudan, the perfumer who worked on the scent, told Women’s Wear Daily.) Of course, all this newfound fashion freedom doesn’t exist in a vacuum. If there is presently a desire to shake off boundaries defining who we love, and how we express that love, wouldn’t it only be natural that this would extend to what we wear? Gone are the days

Hood By Air, always presents a congenial battle-ofthe-sexes on his wild, luxe-hip-hop runways—suggesting that voluminous fur coats, low-slung trousers and HBA-emblazoned pullovers suit whoever is nervy enough to don them. And isn’t it obvious that boy wonder J.W. Anderson’s homage to the humble sweatshirt, an ’80s-inspired garment featuring a photoprinted howling wolf (it elicited howls of approval at his women’s fall 2015 London catwalk) would look as good—maybe even better—on some desiccated dude who saved up his allowance for months to afford this treasure? Perhaps this fellow will find that shirt, or something else to satisfy his outré reveries, at Agender, a new department just launched by the British store Selfridges (and not just in the London flagship—but in Birmingham and Manchester!) that invites shoppers “to sweep aside the boundaries of gender in retail” and enjoy “a celebration of fashion without definition.” But more likely, this imaginary gent will order his gender-free booty online, away from the prying eyes of sales clerks left over from a less tolerant age. After all, home alone in front of your computer at 3 A.M. with your third Scotch in your hand, you are free to indulge in a mode of shopping that not only ensures complete privacy but also encourages a level of experimentation without regard to your size, your predilections and least of all your gender. Which is good news for that 300-pound linebacker in Sheboygan who is craving a lavender tulle tutu—and pretty great news for the rest of us as well. ■

DAVID BOWIE’S ANDROGYNOUS ALTER EGO ZIGGY STARDUST, ADOPTED IN THE EARLY 1970S , WAS BASED ON A COMIC-BOOK CHARACTER FROM SPACE.

IMAXTREE.COM

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Husband duo Darroch and Michael Putnam of Manhattanbased Putnam and Putnam have crafted impossibly chic floral arrangements for some of the biggest names in fashion, from Dior to Dannijo. Now the floral team is branching out with a floral print designed exclusively for Adam Lippes’ fall collection.

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Budding Stars

2 1

The homegrown designers of the moment are swapping prep and popped collars for sleek sophistication

TAKE A PUFF 1

BROCK

Husband and wife Kris Brock and Laura Vassar built their brand with a focus on clean lines, expert tailoring and subtle French influences. brocknewyork.com

GABRIELA HEARST

Hearst’s Uruguayan cattle-ranch roots inspire her namesake line of rich fabrics and warm neutrals. barneys.com

ROSETTA GETTY

The L.A. designer (wife of Balthazar) hints at her laid-back Hollywood Hills heritage with soft knits and billowing silhouettes. rosettagetty.com

PROTAGONIST

Kate Wendelborn debuted her menswear-inspired looks on e-commerce site The Line, where demand for the modern, deconstructed pieces quickly grew. theline.com

Ski jackets are an enduring coldweather staple, but today’s updated versions, boasting modern cuts in luxurious fabrics, won’t look out of place even off the slopes. From top: Passage jacket, $625, AETHER APPAREL , aetherapparel.com. Caribou Club jacket, $1,800, AZTECH MOUNTAIN, aztech mountain.com. G-1 Flight jacket, price upon request, ISAORA, isaora.com.

FLOWERS AND JACKETS: DAVID RINELLA. RUNWAY: COURTESY.

AMERICAN EYE

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Valentino: Mirabilia Romae, a visual love letter from the house’s creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, pays tribute to Rome, the city that inspires their celebrated work, as well as the atelier’s artisans who bring their designs to life.

NICKY HILTON DID HER RESEARCH BEFORE CHOOSING A VALENTINO WEDDING DRESS. “I WENT THROUGH EVERY LOOK FROM THEIR COLLECTIONS OVER THE LAST 10 YEARS,” SHE SAID.

LAZIZ HAMANI (ASSOULINE)

ITALIAN DRESSING

SHINOLA LEATHER, FALL 2015.

DETROIT • NE W YORK • LOS ANGELES • LONDON SHINOL A .COM

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Seeing Green As camouflage blends into the background, a simpler take on military chic is advancing. These army-green pieces have us feeling anything but fatigued

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Watch Out Miramar Chronograph, $12,400, IWC, tourneau.com.

Mad Hatters Nomad hat, $350, WORTH & WORTH, hatshop.com.

GIEVES AND HAWKES

ERMENEGILDO .ZEGNA

MICHAEL KORS Pack It Up Backpack, $5,500,

SANTIAGO GONZALEZ,

mrporter.com.

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

WELL HEELED Iride Decollete pump, $495, FURLA, furla.com.

Furla is known for expertly made Italian leather goods, but now it will grace global shelves with shoes. The complete fall/winter 2015 collection consists of over 50 styles—made of elegant brushed calfskin, calf hair, patent leather and suede—that range from pointed stilettos to rubber-soled creepers. Each pair is crafted with all the quality and made-in-Italy expertise found in the small leather workshops Furla employs, and according to Furla creative director Fabio Fusi created using “labor-intensive artisanal techniques.” These are shoes quite literally made to take a woman from day to night or, as Fusi so dreamily puts it, from “sunrise to sunset.”

LEMAIRE

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Tahitian natural cultured pearl necklace, $134,000, ASSAEL , assael.com.

El Primero Chronomaster Lady watch, $11,700, ZENITH, zenith-watches.com.

“BLACK IS THE HARDEST COLOR IN THE WORLD TO GET RIGHT— EXCEPT FOR GRAY.” —DIANA VREELAND

Slingback, $950, PROENZA SCHOULER, 212-585-3200.

Anouk bag, $2,390,

AKRIS, 877-700-1922.

La Spiga clutch, $1,720, VALEXTRA, valextra.com.

Gray Matters

Fall’s most striking styles for men and women aren’t black or white, but somewhere in between PHOTOGRAPHED BY JENS MORTENSEN

Men’s boot, $895, PIERRE HARDY, pierrehardy.com.

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Boot, $2,400, DIOR, 800-929-3467.

Pilgrim Day bag, $2,250,

ROGER VIVIER, 212-861-5371.

Men’s messenger bag, $4,300, GUCCI, gucci.com.

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style Sneaker, $380, STRANGE MATTER, astrangematter.com.

Bag, $1,300, ROCHAS, rochas.com.

U-22 men’s watch, $5,695, BREMONT, bremont.com.

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View bag, $27,500, JIL SANDER, jilsander.com.

Katy boot, $995, ALEXANDRE BIRMAN, saks.com.

Men’s Countrylane Derby, $925, LOUIS VUITTON, louisvuitton.com.

Benefit boot, $785, STUART WEITZMAN, 212-750-2555.

Men’s belt, $665, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, 212-334-1010.

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Women’s Serein watch, $975, MICHELE, michele.com.

Bianca tote, $528,

THE FRYE COMPANY,

thefryecompany.com.

“THE COLOR OF TRUTH IS GRAY.”—ANDRÉ GIDE

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Becoming Brioni

Bravo, Brioni Gaetano Savini, far left, laughing with friends and family on the Tyrrhenian Sea coast, mid-1960s.

rioni wasn’t always Brioni. Now in its eighth decade, the Roman clothier—which literally invented the men’s fashion show and has won dapper devotees from Clark Gable to Jon Hamm—is synonymous with exquisitely tailored menswear, but when Gaetano Savini first started the line he was a mere David to Savile Row’s suiting Goliath. Clocking in at over 200 pages, Gaetano Savini, The Man Who Was Brioni (Assouline) illustrates how the company rocketed from humble beginnings to worldwide acclaim with an astonishing assortment of photographs and personal effects as well as a preface from Savini’s own daughter, Gigliola. This fall, it’s the one accessory no well-dressed man will be without.—EDEN UNIVER

COURTESY OF BRIONI

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In a stunning new tome, the story of one of Italy’s most celebrated fashion houses is told with heart and, of course, style

ORACLE II

AM ER IC A’S CU P. B R ITISH TIM EKEEPI N G . Bremont has been appointed the Official Timing Partner of the 35th America’s Cup – and of the defending champions, ORACLE TEAM USA. To celebrate, we’ve created four limited edition timepieces. The Bremont ACI and ACII are inspired by the legendary J-Class yachts of the 1930s. While the Bremont Oracle I and Oracle II set new standards in technical innovation, precision and durability. So the question is, which of these fine watches should you choose? Sorry, you’re on your own.

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What’s in a Name?

Why one celebrity-designed line takes off and another flops WRITTEN BY LAUREN SHERMAN

owns Baby Phat. A stint running shoe-subscription concept JustFab followed. But Lee wanted more. Newly remarried and with a baby on the way, the designer launched ready-to-wear line KLS in late 2014. (She and husband Tim Leissner welcomed son Wolfe Lee in April 2015.) On the celebrity-fashion-brand spectrum, the collection is less Kardashian Kollection and more Victoria Beckham. “KLS is representing clearly where I am in my life,” says Lee of the made-in-America range of $975 notched-lapel jackets, $1,550 curve-hugging power dresses and $1,100 plunging-neckline jumpsuits. “I’m a little more grown up. A little more, I hope, sophisticated.” Going the upscale route is a tactic that has worked well for some other celebrities-turned–fashion designers, and Lee hopes to follow suit. Beckham, who launched her namesake collection in 2009, has earned accolades for her vision of understated chic, while Ashley and MaryKate Olsen have transformed American sportswear with their award-winning collection The Row, established in 2007. The success of Beckham and the Olsens, though, has little to do with their celebrity, and everything to do with being determined—and, of course, well funded.

KLS: COURTESY. ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES.

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imora Lee was a fashion person before she was a celebrity. “I was discovered by Karl Lagerfeld,” she says. “My first major job was walking the Chanel runway. That was haute couture, the best introduction to fashion anyone could have.” By the time Lee retired from modeling in the early ’00s, she was married to Def Jam co-founder Russell Simmons and designing the women’s line Baby Phat, a pink-andsparkly spin-off of her husband’s popular Phat Farm brand, which helped define “urban fashion” in the 1990s. Along the way, though, Lee became more than just the wife of a mogul—more, even, than just a designer. She became a full-fledged celebrity, writing a hit self-help book—Fabulosity: What It Is and How to Get It—in 2006 and starring in the now-defunct Style Network’s Kimora: Life in the Fab Lane. She has spent more than half of her 40 years in the spotlight. Lee and Simmons divorced in 2009, and just a year later, she parted ways with Kellwood, the company that now

KATIE HOLMES/HOLMES & YANG

KIMORA LEE SIMMONS/KLS

POSH SPICE/VICTORIA BECKHAM

NEW YORK BOSTON CORAL GABLES HAWAII

FURLA.COM

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Label Makers Looks from the KLS Fall 2015 collection.

For those celebrities who make it as high-end designers, “this is their job—it’s the only thing they do,” explains Teri Agins, author of Hijacking the Runway: How Celebrities Are Stealing the Spotlight from Fashion Designers. “It’s not some sideline business.” Lee’s main gig has been fashion for more than 15 years. The trouble comes when fashion is not everything. Consider Katie Holmes and design partner/stylist Jeanne Yang, whose collection Holmes & Yang debuted in 2009 and was stocked at Barneys New York, but petered out in 2014 just five years after its inception so that Holmes could concentrate on acting again. The most successful of these brands also ﬁll a white space. Beckham mastered the form-ﬁtting shift, while the Olsens created the perfect blazer. Lee, for her part, wants to appeal to working mothers with peplum-waist blouses and sleek high-waist trousers. “This collection is catering to the businesswoman version of myself,” she says. But most important, they deliver fantastic goods. “Product is king,” Agins says. “Celebrity lines come and go, and they go if the product is not that great.” Poor execution seems to have driven the failure of the Kardashian Kollection, which Sears discontinued in the spring of 2015. Beyoncé’s House of Deréon line suffered a similar fate (although the superstar is set to design once

again, collaborating with Topshop on an athletic-streetwear collection that will hit stores this fall). Lee hopes to differentiate KLS by keeping things local: The entire design process takes place in the USA. “The fabrication, the quality, the construction, the fit,” she says. “Everything about it is a little bit higher level.”

FOR THOSE CELEBRITIES WHO MAKE IT AS HIGH-END DESIGNERS, SAYS TERI AGINS, “THIS IS THEIR JOB—IT’S THE ONLY THING THEY DO.” And yet none of it, she insists, is about being famous already. Lee doesn’t put herself in the same category as her fellow celebrity designers since she came up in fashion—and not, say, as an actress or musician. “In the beginning, the reason for me being famous was fashion,” Lee says. “I created a line, and created then some kind of fan base.” Still, very much like her boldfaced peers, she’s betting on those fans to buy her clothes, which are currently available through KLS’s e-commerce site and its ﬁrst physical store, a “jewel box” on Beverly Drive that Lee helped design to feel like a Parisian apartment. After all, she says, “They trust my voice as a connoisseur of ﬁne things.” ■

OFF THE WALL

This fall, designers are pulling from the world of interiors with textile- and tapestryinspired looks in brocade, embroidery and jacquard.

KLS: COURTESY. RUNWAY: IMAXTREE.COM.

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BURBERRY PRORSUM

ETRO

GIVENCHY

TORY BURCH

S H O P AT L A N D S E N D . C O M

wynnlasvegas.com

OUR INSPIRATION HAS ALWAYS BEEN YOU.

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life My First Piece of Art

TOMMY HILFIGER

The designer, whose eponymous fashion brand celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, reminisces about his Studio 54 days and the lithographs that stole his heart

Mick Jagger, Andy Warhol (1975).

—AS TOLD TO NATASHA WOLFF

TOMMY HILFIGER’S POP ART–INSPIRED MIAMI HOME FEATURES BANANA-PRINT BATHROOM WALLPAPER, A MICKEY MOUSE–THEMED BEDROOM AND A CAR-SHAPED POOL TABLE.

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met Andy Warhol in New York City in the late 1970s at Studio 54, and he took me to his studio, The Factory, to show me his art. I couldn’t afford any of it back then, even though it was very inexpensive. But I loved the fact that he brought fashion, art, pop culture and entertainment together. I always thought when I started making money, I’d collect art and buy Warhols. Around the time I launched my company in 1985, I met Prince Rupert Loewenstein and we became friends. He was the ﬁnancial adviser for the Rolling Stones, and he was collecting art at the time. He had these lithographs of Mick Jagger done by Andy Warhol and signed by both men. I wanted to invest, and so I bought a series of 10 screen prints from him. Mick and I had become friends in the early 1980s, as we were neighbors on the Caribbean island of Mustique. The series has moved around over the years: I had the prints in my ﬁrst apartment in SoHo, then Greenwich, Connecticut, and I had a couple in my New York City studio. When I bought a home in Miami two years ago with my wife, Dee, we decided to showcase many of our major artworks down there. The lithographs currently hang in the Miami home along with works from Keith Haring, Damien Hirst and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Now you could say I’m obsessed with collecting pop and contemporary art. It’s one of my favorite hobbies. Art makes life very exciting, especially when you’re dealing with art done by creative people like Andy and Keith—fun, irreverent artists who’ve had a real effect on society.

IN THE WORLD OF REAL ESTATE, WHO’S ALWAYS A STEP AHEAD?

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SATISFY YOUR INTELLECTUAL CURIOSITY Cunard Sometimes the decadence of a weeklong vacation is too much to bear. With that in mind, Cunard has invited a series of stimulating speakers on board the Queen Mary 2 for all eastbound transatlantic crossings starting in January. Expect scholarly dialogue from the likes of a former foreign correspondent and a Pulitzer Prize–winning investigative journalist.

EXPERIENCE LINCOLN CENTER AT SEA Holland America Cruise ships aren’t exactly synonymous with world-class music and theater, but Holland America is about to change that. The luxury liner has collaborated with a cultural institution— New York’s Lincoln Center—to bring ensemble performances on board. The first “Lincoln Center Stage” live music venue will debut early next year.

Rocking the Boat

Five-star facilities, posh perks—setting sail with complete strangers has never been more appealing WRITTEN BY LINDSAY SILBERMAN

TRY A CHROMATHERAPEUTIC SHOWER Regent Seven Seas Guests aboard the new Seven Seas Explorer— which sets sail on its maiden voyage next summer—will likely find themselves in an unparalleled state of Zen. The ship’s Canyon Ranch SpaClub will rival even the most

luxurious land-based spas, with cutting-edge features and amenities like infrared saunas and shower treatments with chroma-therapeutic lighting.

COMPETE IN A CULINARY BATTLE Oceania Amateur chefs can sharpen their knife skills in a white apron “cooking school at sea.” The recently launched Culinary Boot Camp program is an immersive two-day experience culminating in a Top Chef–style competition for participants.

FEAST ON THOMAS KELLER’S CUISINE

Seabourn Imagine the indulgence of dining at Per Se seven nights a week… without a reservation. It’s a far-flung fantasy that Seabourn is bringing to life, thanks to a new partnership with chef Thomas Keller. The Michelinstarred restaurateur has developed special dishes for the entire fleet and is set to open a new restaurant aboard the Seabourn Quest next spring.

TAKE A TOUR AFTER HOURS

Azamara Shore excursions reach a new level of exploration for Azamara guests. The cruise line curates exclusive “insider access tours”—like a trip to Queensland, Australia’s remote Friday Island, where guests can spend the afternoon with a cultivated pearl farmer.

IN 2012 THE 600-PASSENGER PACIFIC PRINCESS, ABOARD WHICH THE LOVE BOAT WAS FILMED, WAS SOLD FOR SCRAP TO A TURKISH DEMOLITION COMPANY.

SEBASTIAN PFUETZE/GETTY IMAGES

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“WHEELS UP GETS MY ENTOURAGE AND MY FILM WHERE THEY NEED TO BE.” Name: Title:

Doug Ellin Creator, Writer, and Director of Entourage Aircraft: Cessna Citation Excel/XLS

1- 8 5 5 - F LY- 8 76 0 WHEELSUP.COM

My schedule is packed, so my time is priceless. When I’m promoting a film, the Wheels Up Cessna Citation 1- 8 5 5 - F LY - 8 7 6 0 WHEELSUP.COM Excel/XLS helps me keep up with the press while keeping eight of my cast and crew comfortable and close at hand. With a dynamic mobile app, on-board Wi-Fi and safe, speedy aircraft, Wheels Up makes the impossible possible—keeping me on schedule and on budget. Wheels Up acts as an agent for the Wheels Up members, and is not the operator of the program aircraft; FAA licensed and DOT registered air carriers participating in the program exercise full operational control of the program aircraft. Subject to additional terms and conditions in the Wheels Up Program documents.

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life

TOP NOTCH Mastering the art of the well-curated coffee table

WRITTEN BY EDEN UNIVER PHOTOGRAPHED BY GIEVES ANDERSON EDITED BY KEITH POLLOCK

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“ T HE MOST INTIMATE story

you can tell about yourself is on your coffee table,” says Alexander Poma, co-founder with Leslie Steven of New York architecture and interior design firm PomaSteven. To start, he suggests, pick a color scheme that complements your existing art, walls and carpeting. Then hunt for pieces of all shapes, sizes and materials—metal sculptures, ceramic vases, decorative details like wooden figurines—and don’t forget the books. “They say you can’t judge a book by its cover, but sometimes the cover is so seductive,” says Poma. A mix of flat and glossy jacket finishes, he says, is ideal. Then you’re ready to build. Flat is boring; stack books and incorporate elements of varying heights. But don’t go overboard. “It’s important to step back and think, What could I remove to make it look more powerful?” Steven says. Most of all, don’t forget to factor in function—a coffee table, after all, should still be able to hold some coffee. A functional tray beneath your items can sweep pieces out of the way when necessary. As a finishing touch, consider adding a bit of greenery. “It really transforms a table,” she says, “and makes it come alive.” ■

Above: “Blue Surround,” RICHARD DIEBENKORN , at SUSAN SHEEHAN GALLERY, 212-489-3331; Beachwood stacking chair, ROLAND RAINER for E. & A. Pollack, KIMCHEROVA, 212-9299720; Bronze and wood low table, C.J. PETERS , 212-752-1198; Cortina silk indigo rug, FORT STREET STUDIO, fortstreetstudio. com. On table above, from left: Nutcracker perfume bottle by GIL NACHMANI , Eggshell sculpture by OREL ARBEL , MAISON GERARD, 212-674-7611; Beacon walnut cutting boards (left and center), CALVIN KLEIN HOME , calvinklein.com; Modernist Wood Carving, MANTIQUES MODERN, 212-206-1494; Ceramic vase,

JACQUES LAROUSSINIE , MAGEN H GALLERY, 212-777-8670.

Left, clockwise from top left: Wood box, ALEXANDRE NOLL , MAGEN H GALLERY; James Welling: Monograph by JAMES CRUMP, aperture.org; Welded copper vessel, HARRY BERTOIA , LOST CITY ARTS, 212-375-0500; Eggshell sculpture by OREL ARBEL , MAISON GERARD; Cecily Brown by James Lawrence and Glenn Brown by Rudi Fuchs; Maidenhair fern; Jean-Michel Basquiat by Robert Farris Thompson and Rene Ricard, GAGOSIAN GALLERY, 212-796-1224; “Affinity” terra-cotta sculpture, GINO COSENTINO, LOST CITY ARTS.

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life

Solar Powered Shining light on the cult of “eclipse chasers”—and the big business of catering to them WRITTEN BY KATE DONNELLY

Eyes Wide Shut Looking directly at the sun during an eclipse can cause eye damage—protective gear is key.

effery Keffer, a West Virginia CEO, arrived last March in Svalbard, a chilly, remote Norwegian archipelago where polar bears roam. He’d come specifically for the total solar eclipse, a rare event during which the moon passes between the earth and the sun, resulting in a bright, halolike ring behind a shroud of complete darkness. Although Svalbard had been named the earth’s prime viewing spot for this particular eclipse—the place where the darkness, also known as “totality,” would last the longest—photos, Keffer knew, would be tricky. He’d brought with him a professional’s arsenal of eclipse gear: a Tele Vue 76mm refractor, his Canon image stabilization binoculars, a camera with several lenses and half a dozen solar filters, specially made to help capture natural-color images of the sun, even though, as he says, “it’s the images that I carry with me in my memory that make these trips so worthwhile.” There are a lot of those images—the Svalbard solar eclipse was Keffer’s thirteenth. Keffer is part of a global band of passionate devotees known as “eclipse chasers” who travel to far-flung locations, rearranging schedules and often sparing few expenses, to glimpse an event that lasts anywhere from just two to seven minutes. It’s less hobby than object of obsession. “Eclipse chasing is a bucket list that never ends,”

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life says Keffer, if mostly because eclipses happen, in some form, every 18 months or so—there’s always a new one to chase. Keffer’s love affair started in 1991 at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula, and he’s since traveled in pursuit of darkness from the Taklamakan and Gobi deserts in far western China to the Cook Islands, Zambia, Chilean Patagonia and Antarctica. Letting the earth’s eclipse pattern dictate the when and where of your vacations might seem a little restrictive, and yet those who get into it really get into it. After planning two years in advance, seven-time eclipse chasers Giuseppe and Patrizia Piccinotti arrived in Svalbard from Northern Italy ready for, as Patrizia says, “the combination of a total solar eclipse, a fantastic trip around it that included dog sledding and snowmobiling and a reunion with previous eclipse-chasing friends.” As U.K.-based psychologist and author Kate Russo, a nine-time eclipse chaser, says, “for some people, it’s impossible to just stop at one.” Well-heeled travelers typically accompany niche travel outfits, like Arizona-based TravelQuest International, to reap the benefits of luxe hotel accommodations and access to prime viewing spots, both of which are often claimed years in advance. Shrewd businesses know how to capitalize on the event—this is often referred to as the “eclipse tax.” In Svalbard, the population doubled. Over 800 commercial beds were sold out close to four years in advance, and rooms, usually averaging $350 per night, commanded as much as a 100 percent rate increase. Some hotels set a minimum stay at five nights. Last-minute travelers, as you might imagine, often pay substantially more, if they can find a place to stay at all. Which is why chasers are already preparing for a trip to the Indonesian islands of Sumatra and Sulawesi, which

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will play host to a total solar eclipse in March of 2016. TravelQuest, which says that 65 percent of its eclipse travelers have already seen at least one, is offering two custom itineraries on the ground as well as a 100-person luxury cruise through the Spice Islands, where low cloud coverage promises optimal viewing. Keffer and his wife will be on this cruise. “For some reason the tropical Spice Islands sound much more inviting than the Arctic,” he quips. That said, for chasers, part of the allure lies in the invitation to visit destinations they might have otherwise overlooked—to follow the darkness, wherever it leads. “Would I have ever planned to travel across China on Mao’s personal train, flown over the South Pole, canoed by hippos in the Okavango Delta or watched a rainbow grace Easter Island?” Keffer asks. “Probably not. But by chasing eclipses I have done all of the above and much more.” ■

Thousands of chasers gathered in sub-zero temps on the northern Norway islands of Svalbard last March to catch the total solar eclipse.

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INDULGE IN AN OFF-MENU MEAL

HELI-SKI WITH A CHARTERED CHOPPER

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Feel the adrenaline rush of skiing pristine untracked snow, then break for a gourmet picnic lunch in the middle of a rolling mountain range. heliski.co.nz —LINDSAY SILBERMAN

SPOTIFY STREAMING FOR BONNIE TYLER’S 1983 HIT “TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE HEART” SHOT UP 214 PERCENT AFTER THE MARCH 2015 TOTAL SOLAR ECLIPSE.

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the founding father. He started the Arizona Center for Integrative Medicine (think of it as the Hogwarts of the discipline) in 1994. Dr. Weil’s name accompanies beauty, food and health products; his books sell in the millions. Aside from Weil and Oz, doctors like Frank Lipman and Mitchell L. Gaynor have built impressive reputations— and businesses—by embracing integrative medicine. These doctors have conventional credentials but are willing to consider less-conventional techniques. Integrative medicine usually includes a collaborative provider-patient relationship, an emphasis on preventive care and wellness, and the use of alternative (and, critics say, unproven) therapies like acupuncture and biofeedback. So you may receive conventional medicine for a broken leg or infection and alternative remedies for allergies. Patients can get the best of both worlds. Not surprisingly, the combo doesn’t come cheap. Many insurance companies have been unwilling to pay integrative doctors for the extra time they spend or cover certain treatments. “Insurance and the current reimbursement schema create obstacles for physicians ready to adopt integrative medical practices,” says Nancy Sudak, executive director of the Academy of Integrative Integrative medicine is the wave of the future. Health and Medicine. Many doctors who want But does practicing it cost physicians’ income— to go integrative stop accepting insurance and or put them on the path to fame and fortune? shift to fee-for-service or concierge services. Indeed, according to Erik L. Goldman, editor WRITTEN BY JESSICA BRANCH of Holistic Primary Care, a big trend is for physicians to go the direct-pay route. “The growth of integrative medicine is demand driven, and people who are well enough off to be able to pay for their own health care are the early adopters—look at celebrities,” says Tabatha Parker, ND, director of education at AIHM. “They want a higher level of care and more attention than they can expect from an overworked doctor who has eight minutes, and they’re used to getting what they want.” It’s no surprise that celebrities were linked with the first wave of integrative doctors. As long ago as 1995, People reported that Ted Danson and Bill Moyers sought the advice of integrative cardiologist Dr. Dean Ornish. Even if you’re not impressed with how Gwyneth Paltrow or Suzanne Somers stay healthy, it’s worth noting that Bill and Hillary Clinton have long taken advice from integrative guru Dr. Mark Hyman, while Arianna Huffington is reportedly a client of Dr. Lipman’s. This may explain why many of these doctors specialize in weight loss, anti-aging treatments, detox and hormone-replacement therapy. Its supporters insist, however, that the landscape is changing and integrative medicine is more broadly accessible. “Legislators and health-care administrators recognize its efficacy and cost-effectiveness,” says Dr. Parker. Though there are no hard statistics on how many doctors have jumped on the bandwagon, it appears the numbers are growing. Victoria Maizes, executive director of the Arizona Center, says that their fellowship program has expanded from four slots in 1997 to 130 doctors a year today—with a waiting list. And the field’s also gaining in respectability. In 2014, the American Board of Physician Specialties ew Americans, let alone doctors, have the Q factor of Dr. Mehmet Oz. It begins with his impeccable medical credentials: A graduate of both Harvard and the University of Pennsylvania, he is vice-chair of the department of surgery at Columbia University School of Medicine. With an eponymous TV show and magazine, he’s committed to connecting with patients and helping them get and stay well. Finally, he’s fascinated with alternative treatments like herbs and Reiki that Western medicine doesn’t necessarily endorse (just ask that Senate committee that grilled him) but which people have believed in for centuries. In a development not unconnected to these credentials, Dr. Oz’s net worth is estimated at $14 million. He’s not the first star in this brand of medicine. Dr. Andrew Weil, also educated at Harvard, is considered

“INTEGRATIVE DERMATOLOGY” IS THE HOT NEW SUB-SPECIALTY, WITH FOUR SPAS IN DENVER AND ASPEN ALONE.

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body became the first multi-specialty group to offer doctors board certification in integrative medicine. What’s ironic about this upswing is that, while integrative medicine has done well by its famous advocates, for a long time it was perceived among doctors as anything but a fast track to riches. “You don’t go the holistic route to make money,” insists Goldman. In many cases, a doctor gets paid more to spend five minutes prescribing a pill to lower LDL cholesterol than to take 15 minutes to explain diet and exercise changes to help lower bad cholesterol naturally. Many of the alternative services doctors recommend, like acupuncture or Reiki, they don’t perform themselves—they make referrals. Sometimes the conversion is driven by personal experience. Take Richard Ash, an innovative Fifth Avenue doctor who’s written several books and has a call-in radio show. Years ago, while a conventional internist, he developed inflammatory arthritis. When he sought treatment, he was put on 20 mg of prednisone per day—for two and a half years. “It worked at first but wreaked havoc on my health,” Dr. Ash says. “My blood pressure, my weight. The side effects were terrible. The drug should be used as a Band-Aid for emergencies, not a long-term solution.” He researched and investigated alternative remedies, and slowly started to change his diet and lifestyle to minimize his body’s acidity and inflammation. Over an eight-month period, he weaned himself from the drugs. “It changed my life, my health and the way I practice medicine.” Though doctors may never have a high-powered integrative medical empire with patients decamping from insurance, “a thriving practice is now possible,” says Sudak. Some doctors may add services like oxygen therapy or sell supplements, which can provide extra revenue. Others may start group classes, in which several patients

“IT CHANGED MY LIFE, MY HEALTH, THE WAY I PRACTICE MEDICINE.”—RICHARD ASH, MD with the same issue will get more intensive preventive education together and then have shorter individual visits. Dr. Patrick Fratellone, a respected Madison Avenue integrative cardiologist, says the emphasis is on remembering the old as much as discovering the new. His own congenital heart issues led him to herbology. He may spend over an hour on a visit, asking patients about their lives, discussing how they should shop for food, prescribing exercise. Sometimes he gives patients herbal teas customized to treat their problems. “I’m going back to the roots of medicine,” says Dr. Fratellone. “Like an old-time country doctor—except we don’t have those anymore.” While some MDs may not have the “entrepreneurial gene” to become a business superstar, more and more docs are finding the personal and professional rewards of integrative medicine reason enough to change. Says Goldman, “It really depends, whether a doctor who switches to integrative medicine makes more money or less. But I don’t know any who regret it.” ■

DOCTORS ON THE CUTTING EDGE Across the country and medical specialties, some of the most famous names in medicine—popular and academic—favor integrative practices. Here, a few of our favorites:

Donald Abrams, MD San Francisco Specialties: Integrative oncology, botanical therapies Books: Co-editor (with Andrew Weil, MD) of Integrative Oncology Website: osher.ucsf .edu Arthur Agatston, MD Miami Beach Specialties: Noninvasive cardiac diagnostics, weight loss; creator of the South Beach Diet Books: Co-author of The South Beach Diet Gluten Solution (among other titles) Website: baptisthealth .net Richard Ash, MD New York, NY Specialties: Environmental medicine, nutrition, joint pain, allergies Books: Co-author of What Your Doctor May Not Tell You About™ IBS: Eliminate Your Symptoms and Live a Pain-free, Drug-free Life Website: ashcenter .com Brian Berman, MD Baltimore, MD Specialties: Family medicine, pain management, acupuncture; president and founder of the Institute for Integrative Health Books: Co-author of Own Your Health: Choosing the Best from Alternative and Conventional Medicine Website: tiih.org/ who/people/staff/ brian-berman Michael Galitzer, MD Los Angeles Specialties: Anti-aging and longevity, bioidentical hormone-

replacement therapy; medical director of the American Health Institute Websites: drgalitzer .com; ahealth.com Mimi Guarneri, MD La Jolla, CA Specialties: Integrative cardiology; president, AIHM Books: Co-author of Total Engagement: The Healthcare Practitioner’s Guide to Heal Yourself, Your Patients & Your Practice Website: mimi guarnerimd.com Alejandro Junger, MD Los Angeles Specialties: Detoxification, cleansing Books: Author of Clean Eats: Over 200 Delicious Recipes to Reset Your Body’s Natural Balance and Discover What It Means to Be Truly Healthy Website: clean program.com Tieraona Low Dog, MD Pecos, NM Specialties: Herbal medicine, dietary supplements, women’s health Books: Author of Healthy at Home: Get Well and Stay Well Without Prescriptions Website: drlowdog .com Jordan Metzl, MD New York, NY Specialties: Sports medicine, fitness Books: Co-author of Dr. Jordan Metzl’s Running Strong: The Sports Doctor’s Complete Guide to Staying Healthy and Injury-Free for Life Website: drjordan metzl.com

Frank Lipman, MD New York, NY Specialties: Functional medicine, wellness, acupuncture; founder and director of Eleven Eleven Wellness Center Books: Co-author of The New Health Rules: Simple Changes to Achieve Whole-Body Wellness Website: drfrank lipman.com Gerard Mullin, MD Washington, DC, area/Baltimore Specialties: Gastroenterology, nutrition, functional medicine Books: Author of The Gut Balance Revolution: Boost Your Metabolism, Restore Your Inner Ecology and Lose the Weight for Good! Website: thefoodmd .com Amy Myers, MD Austin, TX Specialties: Autoimmune disorders Books: Author of The Autoimmune Solution: Prevent and Reverse the Full Spectrum of Inflammatory Symptoms and Diseases Website: amymyersmd .com Erika Schwartz, MD New York, NY Specialties: Bioidentical hormone therapy, women’s wellness Books: Author of The 30 Day Natural Hormone Plan: Feel and Look Better Without Synthetic HRT (among other titles) Website: drerika.com

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errari’s 458 Italia, in production since 2009, was nearly perfect—a sublime mid-engine sports car exhilarating to drive both on the track and on the open road. So when it was announced that its successor, the 488 GTB, would be powered by a smaller, turbocharged V8 engine, Ferraristis were understandably, and in many cases outspokenly, skeptical. The folks in Maranello have never been known to leave well enough alone, but replacing the 458’s throaty wail with the wispy whir of a turbo seemed sacrilege, even if the 488 GTB’s new F154 engine promised significant gains in acceleration, torque and efficiency. That said, after taking the 488 GTB for an early summer spin around Ferrari’s historic Fiorano Circuit, any nostalgia for its predecessor was left in the dust. The 488 is not simply the same car with a new engine, but a holistic reimagination. As Enrico Cardile, Ferrari’s head of aerodynamics, says, the new generation has been revamped “down to the door handle,” utilizing a Formula One–inspired doublespoiler design and active aero flaps. Most notably, patented Slide Slip Angle Control (SSC2) technology enables the car to adjust, on the fly, to road conditions and driver ability. For expert handlers, this means software that knows when to bend the rules of traction control, braking and fuel mapping. For the rest of us, it translates to increased stability and acceleration—effectively controlling chaos without completely sucking the life out of it. The allure (and popularity) of the 458 Italia was due to its raw simplicity, but the character of the 488 GTB, although still elegant, is seasoned and complex, resulting in a car that feels more mature. The technology, meanwhile, creates a sense that the car isn’t just responding but, in fact, listening. Purists needn’t worry: The 488 still purrs as gloriously as a Ferrari should. It’s more vision-ofthe-future than departure-from-the-past—a shape-shifter wrapped in rosso corsa that’s faithful to the bloodline while chock-full of forward-looking features that have, until now, largely been reserved for the top echelons of racing. It’s rare to drive a car that feels like it has so much more to give. Perhaps it is possible to perfect perfection. ■

Wheel Smart

Ferrari’s quick-thinking 488 GTB shifts into the future WRITTEN BY PAUL BIEDRZYCKI

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ADRIAN GAUT

Exhaust-ed The 488 GTB’s active rear flaps and patented blown rear spoiler are designed to increase downforce and reduce drag.

THE DUBAI POLICE FORCE RECENTLY ADDED A FERRARI AND A LAMBORGHINI TO ITS PATROL FLEET IN AN ATTEMPT TO SIGNAL ECONOMIC RECOVERY IN THE GULF EMIRATE.

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Aspiring designer Andrew Warren and his curated crew of privileged friends—a Trump, a Kennedy and a Matisse among them—are serious about leveraging social media to find their purpose. But often, they just feel seriously misunderstood WRITTEN BY CARSON GRIFFITH

own a private drive in the Hamptons, past a sign that reads “Warren on the Cobb,” sits a sprawling clapboard house, complete with a sparkling baby-blue pool, monogrammed deck furniture and the pièce de résistance floating expectantly in the center of the pool: a giant inflatable swan. It’s raining today, the second weekend of the summer, and the house is full. A Japanese camera crew has flown in to interview Andrew Warren, the 22-year-old grandson of fashion mogul David Warren, who made his name in the ’70s with the sort of prim and polished “social occasion” dresses that women bought at Bloomingdale’s and Saks. The younger Warren is a budding fashion mogul himself, with a collection of edgy ready-to-wear pieces he launched in 2013 called Just Drew.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEX JOHN BECK

Though the reporter, whom Warren calls “like the Katie Couric of Japan,” is ostensibly here to talk about the line, her questions inevitably return to the topic of Warren’s friends, a young, beautiful, pedigreed group that appears throughout Warren’s widely followed Instagram account. Warren is at once slighted and nonplussed. He knows his friends are interesting to strangers. He’s helped make them that way, casting them in his lookbooks and leveraging their equally famous names to a collective advantage with the help of social media. If Warren’s Instagram feed (@ADWarren) feels art directed, that’s because it is. He handpicks his crew—which at the moment includes Gaia Matisse, Kyra Kennedy, Reya Benitez and Tiffany Trump— as if putting together a jigsaw puzzle, “weeding out,” as he says, the ones who don’t fit in. The photos they share on social media tell the story of an enviable set of lives intertwined, sipping rosé in infinity pools by day, sipping

From left, Trump wears top by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI and jeans by HUDSON. Kennedy wears top by CITIZENS OF HUMANITY and jeans by GUESS. Matisse wears top by NARCISO RODRIGUEZ and jeans by FRAME DENIM. Warren wears shirt by JUST DREW and jeans by 7 FOR ALL MANKIND. Benitez wears bodysuit by DONNA KARAN and jeans by 7 FOR ALL MANKIND. Couch courtesy of ROCHE BOBOIS.

STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. HAIR: MARTIN-CHRISTOPHER HARPER USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE AT PLATFORM|NYC. MAKEUP: DEANNA HAGAN FOR LAURA MERCIER AT KATE RYAN INC. FASHION ASSISTANT: MEAGHAN HARTLAND.

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rosé on balconies overlooking the Marais by night—a picture-perfect posse of wealthy progeny. And yet, Warren insists, they’re not all about popping bottles and digging into their trust funds. They have professional ambitions, too. In fact, it’s that shared desire to pave their own way and prove they’re not just spoiled brats with Birkins that connects this fivesome the most. They can’t help it if, as Matisse says, they also happen to “look fucking good on a swan.” Matisse (@GMatisse), who met Warren in middle school, is the great-great-granddaughter of French artist Henri Matisse. She sees broadcasting her daily escapades on social media as a strategy, rather than a brazen egofeed. She’s an aspiring actress and model, and who knows? Perhaps the scantily clad selfies she shares with her 13,000 Instagram followers will upthrust her profile; score her the right agent; land her future movie roles. Despite her pedigree—her father, Alain Jacquet, who died in 2008, was also an artist—Matisse says a career as a painter was never in the cards for her. “Acting is my art form,” she professes, batting her blue-mascara-coated lashes. She’s been working with “Bradley Cooper’s acting coach,” she points out, since she was 16. “I met her randomly when I was having dinner with Mickey Rourke,” she says. “I just need to get an agent now.” Matisse insists that she didn’t grow up overindulged. She went to public school in New York City and recounts stories of shopping with her mother for $15 sweatpants. “ ‘Matisse’ was never a thing,” she says, though she’s opted to go by her mother’s more famous last name. “Money was never talked about.” Reya Benitez, the 23-year-old daughter of John “Jellybean” Benitez and a friend of Warren’s since high school, tells a similar story. Her father was the resident DJ for Studio 54 and has produced tracks for Madonna and Whitney Houston. Benitez points out that she started hostessing at her mother’s restaurant, The Coffee Shop, when she was 13. These days, she works at a concierge

management company but is toying with the idea of following in her father’s footsteps as a DJ. She’s eagerly working to grow her social media handle, @ReyaBenitez, which currently has some 2,200 followers. “Social media lets [people] see who we are through what we do,” she says. “Everyone always says [my DJ name] should be Little Bean, but I want to create my own name without any help from my father. I don’t want to be overshadowed by him.” Social media is, of course, what makes this generation of famous progeny different from its predecessors, both offering them opportunity and presenting a challenge. While it’s hard to imagine, say, Sofia Coppola posting figure-flaunting photos of herself to collect followers, maybe she would have, given the option. For Warren and his crew, it’s hard not to harness the power of social media, now that it exists—especially when every day is as Instagram-worthy as it is for them. That said, there are plenty of people who accuse the group of flashing the wealth they did nothing to earn, and many have tried to turn their lives into something of a punch line. Warren’s feed is routinely pilfered for images that end up on @RichKidsofInstagram, an anonymous account that highlights the most obnoxious and rubberneckingworthy posts from wealthy children on the Web. While this annoys Warren—it’s not about being showy; it’s just how life is and besides, he says, “I just really like taking photos”—he acknowledges that the attention is free, and not unwanted, promotion for his

BOAT: @ADWARREN INSTAGRAM. PLANE AND POOL: @GMATISSE INSTAGRAM.

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Clockwise from top right: Gaia Matisse, Kyra Kennedy and a friend touch down in Aspen; Matisse parties at Las Vegas’ The Palms Resort; Andrew Warren poses on a yacht with a friend in Miami.

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PURSE: @GMATISSE INSTAGRAM; MIRROR: @KYRALEMOKENNEDY INSTAGRAM; GIRL: @REYABENITEZ INSTAGRAM

Snap Happy

Clockwise from top left: Matisse and a friend show off coordinating quilted Chanel bags; an impromptu photo shoot; Reya Benitez at Drive In Studios in New York.

have fun with it,” he says. “If people have something negative to say, we’re not asking them to follow in the first place.” Warren met Tiffany Trump, the Donald’s second youngest and only child with ex-wife Marla Maples, when they were three years old. A 21-year-old junior at UPenn, her father’s alma mater, she has a toothy, Pollyanna smile and a Southern gentility, using expressions like “goodness gracious” that belie the steady stream of pouty selfies that fill her Instagram account @TiffanyTrump. Still, she’s doing something right—or at least crowd-pleasing. She’s got 30,000 followers, even if her dad is not among them. “I don’t know what it’s like to have a typical father figure,” says Trump. “He’s not the dad who’s going to take me to the beach and go swimming, but he’s such a motivational person.” She’s debating whether to go to business school or law school after college. It’s Saturday night in Southampton—the perfect excuse for a dinner party. Warren has invited 25 friends to a buzzy East End restaurant in celebration of his successful Just Drew trunk show, which took place earlier today at a local boutique. A society photographer is snapping away as bottles of rosé float across the table. “Wait!” Matisse yells to the lensman. She grabs the hand of Peter Brant Jr., son of billionaire businessman Peter M. Brant, and points to a decorative hedge. “This is a great picture. Take this!” She dips her head back and falls, dramatically, into a bush. While there may be no such thing as bad press, fast fame isn’t necessarily on the agenda. Warren and the girls have been approached by producers interested in building a reality show around them, but they’ve turned up their collective noses at the idea. “I think that it’s just selling yourself, and it’s not an attractive look. I don’t believe in it,” Kennedy sniffs. Adds Trump, “You have to think long term. It’s easy money, but …” “But,” interjects Matisse, “it conflicts so much with all of our different personal goals. Besides, it’s not about money or fame, it’s about our friendships. It’s about us being fucking amazing people and loving each other. That’s what it’s about.”■

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brand. He has vast, lofty goals for Just Drew (“I could see it becoming something like a Givenchy,” he says) that he thinks social media will help him achieve. And it very well might: Many of his regrammed photos feature the girls in Just Drew, posed alongside the designer. Over the last year, Warren’s line has expanded into two boutiques. He’s currently in talks with international distributors, an accomplishment he chalks up to relationships he’s cultivated. “Everyone knows Andrew. All his friends come in and buy,” says Jeff Goldstein, the owner of Blue & Cream, the first boutique to carry his line. Kyra Kennedy, the 19-year-old daughter of Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and the late Mary Kathleen Richardson, was scooped up by Warren in Aspen last December and quickly became a fixture of Warren’s feed, appearing in photos at nightclubs and in hotel suites. Kennedy experienced her first bout of infamy earlier this year after a newspaper article claimed she attempted to use her older half-sister’s passport to get into a nightclub. When she was denied, she allegedly responded, “I’m a Kennedy. Google me.” (The drama “was basically fabricated,” she says.) Still, the embarrassment kept her from attending an internship for two weeks. “I couldn’t bear to see anyone,” she says. “My dad said, ‘I’m sorry, but hiding is not the right thing to do. You just have to face the truth and be like, this is not me. This is not true.’ ” You could say she’s stopped hiding. Kennedy’s Instagram profile (@KyraLemoKennedy) states, “I’m a mess but I make it look so good,” and indeed, in it, life looks pretty good. There she is wearing Marni in Montauk, or cozying up to actress Bella Thorne at the Chateau Marmont. Her dad has called and requested that she “clean up her Instagram,” but as far as Kennedy, a freshman at FIT, is concerned, she’s just having a good time. And Warren would have to agree. “We

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Men in Black

On the brink of the world’s most highprofile sailing race, Oracle Team USA has the island of Bermuda buzzing again WRITTEN BY LINDSAY SILBERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEVEN BRAHMS

Smooth Sailing The team will compete for the America’s Cup using a 50-foot wing-sail catamaran— the smallest boat in the history of the competition. For now, they practice with a 45-foot prototype. Continued Ò

AT HO ME WIT H NAT UR E

t e l 7 8 6 . 2 20. 7761 | 1hote ls. c om/home s /du jou r ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, REFERENCE SHOULD BE MADE TO A PURCHASE CONTRACT AND THE OTHER DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE AN OFFER TO SELL CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN ANY STATE WHERE PROHIBITED BY LOCAL LAW AND YOUR ELIGIBILITY FOR PURCHASE WILL DEPEND UPON YOUR STATE OF RESIDENCY. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY.

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Operation Oracle The five-man crew consists of a bowman, trimmer, floater, wingtrimmer and helmsman. Below: Oracle Team USA often heads to local beaches for early morning workouts.

hen we pull up to the South Basin of Bermuda’s Royal Navy Dockyard— “pit row,” as the locals call it—the sun is barely peeking out from behind a swath of clouds. It’s just past seven in the morning, an ordinarily tranquil time of day for an island brimming with carefree vacationers. But things are far from tranquil here. There are workers straddling jackhammers like pogo sticks, causing the ground beneath us to tremor; young women pace feverishly back and forth while clutching walkie-talkies. In just two years—once the stadium-style seating, concert stages and Jumbotrons have arrived—this place will be virtually unrecognizable. Now, though, it’s nothing more than an empty concrete pier dotted with aircraft hangars. Outside of one, a cluster of men with tanned faces and sun-bleached locks have congregated; they’re dressed in matching black tracksuits like a SWAT team of Cali-bred surfers. But they aren’t here to catch waves. They’re here to sail. The cause for the commotion is Oracle Team USA— a syndicate of 50 people, including 12 sailors—who,

this past April, uprooted their lives and descended upon Bermuda, the host venue for the 35th America’s Cup. Though the race won’t commence until June 2017, teams from around the world will spend two years and millions of dollars scrutinizing every nuance of the course in preparation. For Oracle, the stakes couldn’t be higher. The Larry Ellison–backed team sailed to victory in both the 33rd and 34th America’s Cups, leaving them with the monumental task of defending the trophy once again in 2017. And so, here they are, at seven in the morning, readying to set sail on Bermuda’s Great Sound. Oracle’s skipper, James Spithill, a native of Northern Australia with freckled skin and chapped lips, explains that the boat they’ll race today is simply a “small prototype” of the 50-foot flying catamaran set to be used in the actual competition. (That boat will take an entire year to complete.) “Small prototype” seems like a deeply inadequate way to describe the thing sitting in front of us—a gargantuan vessel that reaches speeds of up to 30 knots (35 miles per hour) and can, quite literally, fly several feet above the water. The ruckus throughout pit row suddenly comes to a screeching halt, as the boat rolls out from beneath the hangar like a Thanksgiving Day parade float. It’s lowered into the water, the sail is secured in place and the sailors climb aboard. Their movements are calculated and robotic, making it easy to forget—just for a moment—that Oracle’s modelesque machines are also human, with lives beyond the confines of the dockyard. Spithill admits that his teammates were initially hesitant about moving here. “I think everyone’s adjusting. It’s a big change coming from a place like San Francisco,” he says of the most recent America’s Cup host city. But in just a few short weeks they’ve come to embrace island life, and the island, it seems, has embraced them twofold. For Bermudians, sailing is a religion—and that makes sailors gods. They are ogled as they work out on the beach, high-fived at the gas station and recognized in restaurants. Their presence offers the island a promise of exciting things to come.

ORACLE FOUNDER LARRY ELLISON REPORTEDLY SHELLED OUT AT LEAST $115 MILLION FOR THE 2013 AMERICA'S CUP CAMPAIGN IN SAN FRANCISCO.

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A GUIDE TO THE BEST OF BERMUDA

“I LOVE YOU!” SHOUTS JOHNNY BARNES (ABOVE), ONE OF BERMUDA’S LOCAL CELEBRITIES. EVERY MORNING BEGINNING AT 5 A.M., THE 92-YEAR-OLD TAKES HIS PLACE AT A BUSY INTERSECTION AND GLEEFULLY GREETS PASSERSBY.

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Painted in Pastel Clockwise from above: Inside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, where maritime tradition runs deep; the wood-beamed ceiling at Cambridge Beaches Resort & Spa dates back 300 years; Coral Beach Club hosts a Family Night dinner every Sunday evening; white limestone roofs offer a stark contrast to the vibrant sea; Johnny Barnes, the island’s friendliest native. Opposite page: Homes stick to a pastel palette; palm-printed chairs inside Tamarisk Restaurant & Terrace.

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MARCUS’

Golf enthusiasts are likely familiar with Bermuda’s claim to fame: It has more courses per square mile than anywhere else in the world. If you’re going to play one, though, go with the Mid Ocean Club. It’s the course of choice for Michael Bloomberg and Michael Douglas, both of whom own homes on the island. themidoceanclubbermuda.com

Like its heritage, the island’s local cuisine represents an amalgamation of cultural influences. So it’s fitting that Marcus Samuelsson—an Ethiopianborn, Swedish-raised, New York–based restaurateur—would be the first bona fide “celebrity chef” to make his mark on Bermuda. His namesake restaurant opened in the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club this past May. The airy space has an open kitchen where rockfish (a local favorite) is charred on a wood-burning grill. marcusbermuda.com

DRINK

SWIZZLE INN Sipping on a syrupy rum swizzle— Bermuda’s “national drink”—at the Swizzle Inn (left) is a rite of passage for visitors. Located in a 17th-century roadhouse, it’s the island’s oldest pub, dating back to 1932. The drinks are as strong as they are sweet, which is probably why they’re served in a glass that barely holds six ounces of liquid. swizzleinn.com HOTEL FOR ADULTS

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CAMBRIDGE BEACHES RESORT & SPA

BERMUDA’S WHITE LIMESTONE ROOFS AREN’T JUST FOR AESTHETICS—THEY GUARD AGAINST HURRICANES AND COLLECT RAINWATER, WHICH IS FILTERED AND USED BY HOMEOWNERS.

RESTAURANT

THE MID OCEAN CLUB

There is perhaps nothing more quintessentially Bermudian than the pink cottages with white limestone roofs sprinkled throughout Cambridge Beaches. It’s not the swankiest property in town—the rooms are rather simple— but it’s arguably the most authentic. Plus, the hotel is located on a 30-acre peninsula with postcard-perfect views and stretches of private beach. cambridgebeaches.com

HOTEL FOR FAMILIES

ROSEWOOD TUCKER’S POINT Tucker’s Point, a 20-minute drive from the hustle and bustle of Hamilton, feels like a secluded world of its own. The aesthetic is decidedly British Colonial, but the hospitality is five-star modern: You won’t find a single blade of grass or cabana cushion out of place. A robust family program keeps kids entertained with cooking classes and outdoor activities. rosewoodhotels.com BEACH CLUB

PRINCESS BEACH CLUB Travelers who appreciate the simplicity of a stunning pink-sand beach adore Horseshoe Bay and Elbow Beach, which have long been considered the island’s best. But those seeking a more “full service” experience need look no further than the newly opened Princess Beach Club. There, you’ll find water sports, killer food, hammocks, outdoor showers and—best of all?—WiFi. thehamiltonprincess.com PRIVATE CLUB

THE CORAL BEACH & TENNIS CLUB You’ll feel as if you’ve been plucked out of New England and placed gently into the Atlantic at this preppy beachfront club (top left). While membership is by introduction only, Coral Beach has a surprisingly unpretentious vibe (a “house parrot” greets guests in the lobby). For those not in the market to join, spa appointments and squash lessons are open to non-members. coralbeachclub.com ■

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Instant Gratification

That so-called “digital revolution” everyone’s buzzing about? Not interested. We’re keeping it retro with cooler-than-Instagram instant cameras WRITTEN BY LINDSAY SILBERMAN

$130, FUJIFILM, bestbuy.com

instax Mini 8 Even novice shutterbugs can master the art of the instant photo, thanks to a feature that auto-recommends the appropriate brightness setting. $70, FUJIFILM, bestbuy.com

Lomo’Instant With three different lenses to choose from— fish-eye, portrait and close-up—it’s arguably the most high-tech option on the market. $169, LOMOGRAPHY, shop.lomography.com

Polaroid 300 While traditionalists may scoff at the business card–size photos, this curvaceous camera brings a muchneeded makeover to the classic Polaroid. $80, POLAROID, amazon.com

ANDY WARHOL IS CONSIDERED THE ORIGINAL SELFIE MASTER—HIS PRIVATE 1960S POLAROID COLLECTION FEATURES MORE THAN A DOZEN SELF-PORTRAITS.

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

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instax WIDE 300 This easy-to-use camera shoots wideformat images, which guarantees that you’ll never be cropped out of a photo again.

life

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For the Love of the Game Money

The stakes are getting higher—much higher—for the fans, and the creators, of fantasy sports sites WRITTEN BY JOHN WOLFSON

fter graduating from high school more than 40 years ago, Joseph Sentef decided that college could wait. Sentef was an accomplished chess player, a U.S. master, and he wanted to play professionally. He was doing OK, as he recalls, until “my mother told me basically to stop playing games and go get an education.” So Sentef enrolled at the University of Mississippi, where he managed to win a national intercollegiate title for Ole Miss. After starting at the University of Mississippi School of Medicine, however, he largely put chess away. “Unfortunately, once you get into medicine,” he says, “you don’t get to play that many games anymore.”

ILLUSTRATED BY ALEX WILLIAMSON

That may have been true for a long time, but last fall the 61-year-old family-medicine doctor from Chattanooga, Tennessee, decided he was ready to get back to playing games—for money. Big money, actually. Sentef’s son and some of his friends had become regular players at a daily fantasy sports website called FanDuel. They selected athletes from various professional sports, placed bets and, based upon the real-life performance of those players, won or lost money. Intrigued, Sentef opened an account and deposited $200. By the time the football season ended, he had won $25,000. Recently, Sentef bested a field of 900 to win a seat in FanDuel’s World Fantasy Baseball Championship and in August competed against 89 other players for a prize pool of $4 million. Fantasy sports have been around for more than

THE STATES WITH THE MOST INTENSE FANTASY FOOTBALL PARTICIPATION: NORTH DAKOTA, DELAWARE AND INDIANA.

life

THOUGH JENNINGS DABBLES IN THE NINETO-FIVE AS A CONSULTANT, “BY FAR,” HE SAYS, “THE MAJORITY OF MY INCOME COMES FROM PLAYING FANTASY SPORTS.” During the busier fall and winter months—when the NBA, NHL, NFL and college ball are happening— Jennings spends most of his day on the computer. “I’m basically crunching numbers and doing models,” he says. Once games start in the evening, he sits back and watches them on the four televisions he has mounted on his living room walls. In between plays, he scans his computer monitors in preparation for the next day. Daily fantasy sports are legal in 45 states because of what is either, depending on how you look at it, a quirk in the Unlawful Internet Gaming Enforcement Act, or a gift to the professional sports leagues thanks to lobbying by … the professional sports leagues. The UIGEA, as it’s known, was passed in 2006 to prevent gambling sites from accepting bets over the Internet. The law went largely unenforced for years, and millions of Americans played poker and bet on sports at offshore-based sites. Then, in 2011, the U.S. government instituted a mass crackdown. Several sites were shut down, and to this day, poker pros and other professional gamblers have to live outside the country if they want to play online. But UIGEA includes a specific exemption for fantasy sports. Reps from both FanDuel and DraftKings insist that DFS is not a form of gambling. “DFS is very much a game of skill,” a DraftKings spokeswoman told me. But the same can be said of poker and horse racing. Of course, it’s easy to understand why those with a stake in DFS might be touchy. The UIGEA exemption rests on fantasy sports being distinct from gambling, and that notion also allows the leagues to keep an arm’s-length distance between sports and gambling while still generating all the additional interest and television ratings. Sentef, for one, insists he’s mostly in it for the fun, that DFS has allowed him to channel his competitiveness into a new form of entertainment. The chance to make a few bucks along the way? Well, that doesn’t hurt. As Adam Goulet, a mortgage broker from Charlotte who’s won millions playing in baseball and basketball tournaments, says, “At first my fiancée hated it, with me sitting there refreshing my phone constantly, but she’s come to accept it.” After all, “It kind of changed everything on the honeymoon front.” ■

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f course, the skyrocketing popularity of DFS has attracted another sort of investor: players who use these sites to make a lot of money. Alvin Zeidenfeld is on the phone from his Los Angeles office. “I have my spreadsheet open, I made my lineups, I’ve posted my head-to-heads, I’m kind of going over everything on the day,” he says. Zeidenfeld is a former poker professional who started playing DFS in 2012. He says some of the skills he developed in poker helped him make the transition to fantasy sports. “It just comes down to your feel for the game,” he says, “your understanding of the math, your understanding of the numbers, which all translate for players from the felt to daily fantasy sports.” Today, Zeidenfeld is a DraftKings “pro,” meaning he is so good at DFS that he is paid to endorse the company. Still, he doesn’t actually consider himself a professional. “I don’t know how to classify myself,” he says. “There are people who do this for a living, that pay their bills with DFS, and there are people that play as hobbyists. I am a very involved hobbyist. I play for high stakes, I play at the highest levels, I play for the biggest tournaments.” Zeidenfeld’s single biggest score was the $350,000 he won in 2013 for placing second in a football tournament, but he says he’s equally good at baseball and basketball. When it comes to golf, hockey, NASCAR and mixed martial arts, he consults with experts in those sports for advice. Peter Jennings is a 30-year-old former stockbroker from Colorado who became obsessed with DFS a few

years back. “I was bringing my iPad in to work to do daily fantasy lineups on my breaks,” Jennings recalls. Finally, convinced he could support himself playing DFS, Jennings “took a plunge.” He quit his job to focus on fantasy sports full time. Weeks later, he’d already won almost $150,000. Last year, he banked $1 million in the DraftKings Fantasy Baseball Championship. Though he dabbles in the nine-to-five as a consultant, “by far,” he says, “the majority of my income comes from playing.”

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30 years and are played by an estimated 41 million Americans. But daily fantasy sports (DFS) are the old-fashioned variety pumped up on steroids—and, in many cases, a whole lot more lucrative. Instead of choosing athletes at the start of a sports season, DFS players choose a new team—and win or lose money— every day. Stakes are very low or very high, from a couple of bucks to thousands of dollars a game. The industry’s two biggest sites, FanDuel and DraftKings, together claim more than 3 million users, though the pace of their growth makes it difficult to keep up with accurate numbers. FanDuel, for instance, increased users by more than five times last year—while producing revenue in the fourth quarter alone of almost $37 million. DraftKings, meanwhile, grew registered users tenfold. Wall Street, unsurprisingly, has taken notice. FanDuel, which was founded in 2009, has so far raised $363 million in venture capital—including a staggering $275 million announced in July—while DraftKings, founded in 2011, told the Washington Post in March that it has raised nearly $75 million of its own. With this kind of success, more established businesses are eager to cash in. USA Today has a DFS site, and Yahoo! recently announced that it will launch one too. Meanwhile, many pro-sports teams are signing marketing deals with FanDuel and DraftKings, and some of the sports leagues—which have long feared the taint of gambling— have even bought stakes in the companies.

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With barbecue and bone broth ruling dinner plates, it was only a matter of time before the leftovers ended up in the drinks WRITTEN BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

THE RESTAURANT:

BACK WHEN I WORKED at a classic cocktail bar in New York

City, there was a game we played when service was slow. The manager would choose three to five random ingredients— a bottle of vodka that came in the mail, along with Meyer lemons, St. Germain and cinnamon, for example—and challenge the bartender to create something quaffable. This is a difficult task under any circumstances, but it was even harder the day our poor bartender was given pork au jus, chocolate and tequila, and we ended up with a greenish-brownish blended drink that no one was willing to try. Making tasty cocktails out of meat is tricky, and it’s taken bartenders a while to confidently, and successfully, infuse old-fashioneds, Bloody Marys and even light gin cocktails with proteins that normally only appear on plates. But now that they have, it’s hard to go anywhere without being tempted to drink the fat.

THE MEAT:

WHAT TO ORDER WITH IT:

BELCAMPO MEAT CO.

Beef jerky

BBQ Old-Fashioned (Balcones Baby Blue bourbon, brown sugar cube, smoked BBQ bitters and flamed BBQ tincture, garnished with house-made jerky)

More beef. The restaurant’s not called the Belcampo Vegetable Co. The roast beef banquet— sliced sirloin tip on top of buttered toast with a blue cheese wedge salad—should do the trick.

URBAN FARMER

Prosciutto

The First Course (Grey Goose pear vodka, Avissi prosecco and St. Germain, with a blue cheese and prosciutto garnish)

An actual first course, such as the Maine lobster salad, which comes with charred eggplant aioli, smoked mussels and miner’s lettuce.

THE WREN

Beef broth

The Bull Shot (Tito’s Vodka, Worcestershire, lemon, beef broth and jerky garnish)

If you’re asking for your Bloody Mary in shot form, you’re probably pretty hungover. Go for the Full Irish—a fried egg with sausage, black pudding, beans, bacon, tomato and soda bread.

MERCAT A LA PLANXA

Powdered Serrano ham

Michelada Catalan (Estrella Damm beer, Amontillado sherry, yellow tomato salmarejo, paprika hot sauce and a powdered Serrano ham rim)

Powdered ham is cool, but has the unfortunate side effect of making you want real ham. Go for the jamon y queso coca (flatbread) with goat-cheese béchamel, Manchego and Serrano.

THE NORMAL DINER

A whole hamburger

The Redeemer (House-made Bloody Mary mix and vodka garnished with a doublecheeseburger slider, salumi, cheese curds, olives, asparagus and celery stalk)

Fries, obviously. And some self-respect, if you can find any.

Santa Monica, California

Portland, Oregon

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THE DRINK:

New York, New York

Chicago, Illinois

Tempe, Arizona

BRYAN VOLTAGGIO OF TOP CHEF CREATED “MEAT ICE,” A BEEFSICLE OF MEAT, TOMATO WATER AND SEASONINGS THAT MELTS INTO SCOTCH.

LIQUOR IMAGES COURTESY. OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES

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46 BRANDS. 25 UNIQUE TO MARKET. | THESHOPSATCRYSTALS.COM

“THIS IS MY TIME” Mitchell Niemeyer

EXPLORE TWSTEEL.COM

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Brains and Braun At left, manager Scooter Braun in his West Hollywood office; above, the awards he’s won for work with artists like Cody Simpson; below, the accolades and ephemera that decorate Braun’s office.

The Flip Side of Scooter Braun

Underneath it all, is music’s most controversial mogul really just a mensch? WRITTEN BY MICKEY RAPKIN

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

cooter Braun doesn’t do anything small. He’s got big lips, big money and a big office inside a gut-renovated West Hollywood compound. Textured wallpaper, plush couches and framed gold records from clients like Justin Bieber, Ariana Grande and Cody Simpson mingle with black-and-white photos of Braun hobnobbing with the likes of Magic Johnson and Whoopi Goldberg. But what really stands out about the space is the Executive Robot parked next to the 34-year-old Braun’s desk. Imagine a Segway with a computer screen for a face and you’re halfway there. “I log on from my laptop anywhere in the world and suddenly my face comes on the screen. I control its movements. I can see everything,” he says. “We have meetings where I’m like, Get the whole staff in the office. In the beginning you feel awkward. And after 20 seconds, you think I’m in the room.” It’s a fitting metaphor, considering Braun doesn’t just have his finger on the pulse of culture, he’s got it on the carotid artery. In a short time, Braun has established himself as the wizard controlling what’s in our earbuds

and, increasingly, what’s on our screens. Beyond Bieber’s six number-one records or Ariana Grande’s role as pop’s reigning diva, there’s Braun’s first foray into producing scripted TV, CBS’s Scorpion, which last year averaged more than 10 million viewers weekly. He’s hoping that same magic strikes when Jem and the Holograms, which he produced, hits theaters this fall. Braun’s also expanding into tech—he’s an investor in Uber, Pinterest and Spotify— and politics, having hosted a $2,700-a-plate August fundraiser for Hillary Clinton. Braun’s so on it these days that no less than L.A. Reid recently told Billboard: “Scooter Braun could do anything.” And he’ll have to. Despite Braun’s Millennial Midas touch, there seems to be a disconnect between his public persona (and the perception that he’s Bieber’s babysitter or, worse, his enabler) and his private self. Braun hasn’t always helped matters, memorably telling The New Yorker in 2012 that he’d bought his neighbor’s house so he could knock it down and install a basketball court in its place. And yet this morning, he looks less like a mogul than the friendliest dad at day care. He’s dressed in Chuck Taylors

IN 2013, BRAUN TURNED DOWN A JUDGE’S SEAT ON AMERICAN IDOL, REPORTEDLY BECAUSE HE WOULDN’T BE GUARANTEED THE CHANCE TO MANAGE THE SHOW’S WINNER.

SARAH JESSICA PARKER for THE JORDACHE LOOK

SHOP NOW on the new

JORDACHE .com

work and dark jeans. And those lips are smiling big as he pulls out his iPhone to share a photo of his son, Jagger, in a diaper, with sweatpants draped around his ankles. Braun— who married Yael Cohen, co-founder of the nonprofit Fuck Cancer, in 2014—explains with a laugh, “I was changing his diaper and he started crying. I was like, You want to fight me on the pants? Fine. The pants are staying off.” By now Scott Braun’s origin story is the stuff of legend. A dentist’s son from Greenwich, Connecticut, enrolls at Emory University but rarely goes to class, concentrating instead on selling fake IDs to rich kids— the same ones who’d later need those IDs to get into the parties he was promoting. “If these kids were gonna throw money around,” Braun says, “I was gonna “I’M HAVING FUN, catch it.” He starts calling himself BUT I WANT Scooter (a childhood nickname) SO MUCH MORE.” full-time, and by age 20 he’s dropped out and become the head of marketing at Atlanta’s So So Def Records, where—in a move sure to be taught in business school someday—he cold calls Pontiac and secures a $12 million campaign for Ludacris. Braun soon goes out on his own, signing a Canadian kid named Justin Bieber from YouTube. Looking back, he explains: “I couldn’t wait to get out of Greenwich. I wanted to start over.” What fueled that fire is less known. “My grandfather was a Holocaust survivor,” Braun says. “My grandmother worked in a sweatshop. My dad went to Bronx Science and got scholarships and worked his ass off to give his family a better life. My mom’s dad died when she was 11, and she basically went on welfare. Here I am, first generation being handed something, and that drove me crazy.” Braun insisted on creating his own obstacles. “All I wanted to do The Music Man Braun backstage was prove I could become something.” Why stop at music? with Tori Kelly “I’m having fun,” he says, “but I want so much more.” at The Wiltern in As his younger brother Adam Braun (whose nonprofit, Los Angeles.

Pencils of Promise, builds schools in developing countries) recalls, it was only a matter of time. “Scott was always the most socially gifted person in every room,” he says. And the elder Braun isn’t afraid to put his business where his mouth is. At a gala for Pencils of Promise, Scooter suggested his client Martin Garrix contribute a DJ set to the auction. “That item alone helped build more than three schools,” Adam says. There’s a sign behind Scooter’s desk that reads, “Create, Execute, Deliver.” And if you squint, you can see a through-line between the young man who admits to throwing a few punches in his youth and the highly evolved mogul sitting here today. Braun’s gift is zeroing in on what the public wants before they even know they want it. With Top 40 radio populated by over-produced acts, he’s pushing Tori Kelly, a sort of neo-Jewel for Millennials too young to remember the Alaskan who lived in her van. And Braun’s got a nimble mind. After watching Kelly and her band rehearse for the Billboard Music Awards in May, he yanked her musicians from the stage and instead shoved the 22-year-old leggy blonde out there alone armed with only her guitar. It was a risk to go so low-tech on national TV, but the verdict was immediate. John Legend tweeted, “Tori Kelly with the vocal performance of the night.” While breaking new artists is crucial to a manager’s reputation, so is keeping a star from going supernova. Bieber’s implosion has been so well documented, it’s amazing that we’re now talking about a comeback and not a stint on Dancing with the Stars. That’s a testament to how well orchestrated the Justin Bieber Apology Tour has been. Braun’s team at SB Projects came up with the idea to do a Comedy Central Roast, which let Bieber speak to his demo directly and show he was in on the joke. Meanwhile, Bieber’s ride in James Corden’s Carpool Karaoke (28 million hits on YouTube and counting) reminded us the kid could sing. Now he’s in the studio working with Kanye West, Rick Rubin, Skrillex and Diplo, and Braun, who used to wait by the phone every night until he heard from Bieber’s bodyguards, says, “You know how much easier it is for me to go to sleep now? It’s fantastic.” That’s Braun: Part-time Svengali, full-time sweetheart. As for the basketball court he was going to build on his neighbor’s property, that’s ancient history. “I met my wife and realized I didn’t want to be a bachelor anymore,” he says, almost annoyed at the line of questioning. “People want you to fit into a stereotype for what that entertainment guy is. I want to create a new stereotype. You can be very successful in this business and be a good person and a good husband and a good father. You don’t have to be that asshole.” Besides, he’s on to bigger real estate deals, reportedly dropping $13.1 million on a seven-bedroom, 11,000square-foot house in Brentwood last year, which he tore down to the studs. Says Braun with a grin and an awesome what-do-you-want-from-me shrug: “The bones were great.” With that, Braun’s buzzing phone can no longer be ignored, and an assistant hovers by the door waiting to pounce. Before departing, Braun makes his ultimate ambition clear, smiling as he says, “I gotta be relevant when my kid’s a teenager.” ■

GROOMER: NATALIA BRUSCHI AT THE WALL GROUP USING TOM FORD

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Opening October Beachfront luxury

in the heart of Miamiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South Beach 1825 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33139

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ou might think that the ingredientsfocused fanaticism on offer at the Upper East Side’s Kappo Masa—the clubby, à la carte Japanese restaurant adjacent to co-owner Larry Gagosian’s Madison Avenue gallery—would call for only the simplest of serving slabs with little in the way of design. But chef Masayoshi “Masa” Takayama isn’t only precious about the food he’s serving, he’s also exacting when it comes to the plates on which he’s serving it. A self-taught potter, Takayama created a suite of handmade tableware to go along with every course he serves. He designs the cast-iron and glass dishes in conjunction with trained artisans, but the ceramic pieces he makes himself, shaping them on a wheel in a pottery studio in Japan and then firing them in a 1,000-degree kiln. Each dish, he says, matches the exquisitely sourced, sinfully expensive sushi—a $240 toro roll with caviar, for example—that’s served on it. “My food has a power. It is vibrant, seasonal, fresh. It doesn’t work well with that antique stuff,” Takayama says, a reference to the little lacquered boxes and daintily painted ceramic bowls used in traditional kaiseki-style Japanese meals. Takayama, 61, is obsessed with power, specifically that which is inherent in nature. One of his signature bowls, deep and made of a craggy dark clay, was inspired by the rocks on the beaches of Ishikawa Prefecture along the Sea of Japan. “The rock is hit by a very, very strong wave,” he explains. “It leaves this irregular shape. That gives me the idea.” The bowl is reserved for one dish: katsuo bonito, a type of tuna whose silvery skin and dark red flesh play against the variegated shades of the clay. Another of Takayama’s culinary innovations, surimi pasta, a type of noodle he makes entirely with fish, has become the favorite gluten-free repast of models like

Masa Appeal Clockwise from right, the chef in his Madison Avenue eatery; Kappo Masa’s katsuo tataki; a sketch of serving dishes by Takayama; Kappo Masa’s chili bottarga fish pasta.

Plate Expectations

Masayoshi Takayama creates New York’s most luxurious sushi, and he also handcrafts the dishes it’s served upon WRITTEN BY STEPHEN HEYMAN

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MIMI RITZEN CRAWFORD

Karlie Kloss and Irina Shayk. The thin strands—flecked with bottarga, cilantro and chili—come to the table atop a heavy disc of bone-white porcelain, nearly five inches tall. The food, in this case, is literally elevated by the dish on which it rests. But of course, Takayama says, these forms, however pure and inspired, are nothing without their contents. “This is sleeping,” he says, gesturing to an empty clay bowl. “Once the fish and ingredients come, it wakes up.” ■

IN 2009, THE ORIGINAL MASA WAS AWARDED THREE MICHELIN STARS, MAKING IT THE FIRST JAPANESE RESTAURANT IN THE U.S. TO ACHIEVE THAT RANKING.

SKETCH: COURTESY OF KAPPO MASA

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othing’s done quickly in Washington, D.C., and politics are usually to blame. The Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture, now slated to open in late 2016, has been seven years in the making, something its architect, David Adjaye, attributes to the red tape that comes along with working in our nation’s capital. “A modest-scale civic project usually takes three to five years,” Adjaye explains. “But with the Smithsonian, politics entered into it.” It thus took four years to design the building, “and three more just to get through the system.” For some architects this sort of delay could be frustrating, but for Adjaye, who won this project over heavyweights like Foster + Partners and Diller Scofidio + Renfro, the leisurely pace was preferable. “This is a slow business, but I love it being slow,” Adjaye says, sitting in his Lower Manhattan office. “This relaxed pace allows you to spend a lot of time thinking about exactly what it is you want a building to be.” In the case of the Smithsonian, that meant an environmentally conscious structure designed to express the resiliency of a diverse community and to house historical documents and cultural artifacts, including artwork by Lorna Simpson and Romare Bearden, a dress that belonged to Rosa Parks, the Jim Crow railroad car and Nat Turner’s Bible from the 1830s. It was no small task. Still, seven years is a lengthy gestation period even by public-building standards. Luckily, Adjaye had plenty to keep him occupied.

The Rising Star of Davıd

He has high-profile projects being developed the world over, but architect David Adjaye’s greatest undertaking seems to be building a better future WRITTEN BY JEN RENZI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVEN BRAHMS

WHILE THE 48-YEAR-OLD ADJAYE might call London home, these days he’s showing up just about everywhere. Last spring in Milan, his inaugural furniture collection for Moroso premiered at Salone del Mobile to critical acclaim. An exhibition he curated of African textiles from the Cooper-Hewitt Museum’s permanent collection opened last summer in New York City. In September, Adjaye will be the toast of the Windy City, thanks to a retrospective opening at the Art Institute of Chicago, and concurrently in Washington, D.C., construction is wrapping up at the Smithsonian, his biggest project to date. To anyone paying attention to international architecture, this is no great surprise. Adjaye’s name is bandied about for seemingly every high-profile project that comes up (he’s rumored to be in the running to design Barack Obama’s presidential library), and he has secured the kind of marquee commissions—like the Nobel Peace Center in Oslo, the Denver Museum of Contemporary Art and his latest, a new building for the Studio Museum in Harlem, to name a few—of which many of his contemporaries can only dream. He’s also taken on less glittering but equally ambitious projects, including a recently opened affordablehousing development in Upper Manhattan. “This is an important moment in David’s career,” says Zoë Ryan, chair of the department of architecture and design at the Art Institute of Chicago. “The Smithsonian is a project of national and international significance, and he now has more than 50 built projects and many more in development all over the world.”

OPRAH WINFREY HAS REPORTEDLY DONATED UPWARDS OF $13 MILLION TOWARD BUILDING THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE.

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work The National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Smithsonian’s first new building since 2004, anchors the National Mall, commanding a plot adjacent to the Washington Monument, and its zigzagging design, veiled in a perforated-bronze filigree, nods to both Yoruban building techniques and classical Greek architecture. It’s the kind of cross-cultural mash-up that has become Adjaye’s signature. As museum director Lonnie Bunch said in 2013, “[Adjaye] could see this project for what I wanted it to be, which was not just a museum for black people but a museum to help people of one culture understand the experience of people of a different culture.” Adjaye’s success owes to formidable savvy and skills— not only as a sculptor of space, but also as an advocate for the power of design. He is an agitator with impressive diplomatic chops, which isn’t surprising considering Adjaye’s father was a Ghanaian diplomat. During the 1960s and ’70s, the family hopscotched throughout Africa and the Middle East—from his birthplace of Tanzania to Egypt and Libya—before settling in London when Adjaye was in his early teens. “I get itchy,” he says, “if I stay in one place too long.” As a result, Adjaye is constantly on the move, and worldly might be the term that best sums up both his sensibility and his practice. He has offices (and residences) on three continents, and his firm juggles work across the globe. Recent projects include a concept store in Lagos, Nigeria, a business school in Moscow and a silk-weaving workshop in India for the fashion brand Maiyet.

n an era when technology makes it easy for an architect to design remotely—transmitting files across cyberspace and visiting a construction site to monitor progress only intermittently—Adjaye is an anomaly. Not only does he travel nonstop to oversee the work being executed, so do his top staffers. “Right now, one of my directors is on the West Coast looking at a site, another is in the Caribbean and yet another is in Toronto,” he says. “I hate the idea of a design practice that’s bums on seats.” Adjaye finds travel essential to his way of thinking. “Moving around the world gives me a different perspective—and a critical edge,” he explains. “It lets me look at something upside down when everyone else is looking at it straight on.” That notion applies to every facet of his design process. In most architects’ offices, models are shown on low tables, affording a godlike view down into them. At Adjaye Associates’ 20-person New York office, models are presented on a ledge about five feet above eye level. “Some architects have a panoptic relationship to models,” he explains. “I prefer to place them within the view line, as you’d see the building from down the street.” Closer, that is, to how people really experience architecture. That populist ethos is the crux of Adjaye’s sensibility. “I want my projects to have an accessibility as well as an edifying and uplifting quality,” he says. A library, for instance, should both support and stimulate learning. He sets the bar high, unsatisfied with a structure that’s visually striking but a passive participant in the cityscape. “Architecture has such a profound effect on our collective

If You Build It The New York office of Adjaye Associates features models of the architect’s work at eye level to provide a more realistic view.

“I HATE THE IDEA OF A DESIGN PRACTICE THAT’S BUMS ON SEATS.”

THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION WAS FOUNDED IN 1846 BY JAMES SMITHSON, AN ENGLISHMAN WHO NEVER ONCE SET FOOT IN AMERICA.

IN 2011, ADJAYE PUBLISHED A SEVEN-VOLUME COLLECTION OF HIS PHOTOGRAPHS OF AFRICAN CITIES. IT CLOCKED IN AT OVER 575 PAGES.

COURTESY OF ADJAYE ASSOCIATES

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Star Structure Above: Adjaye’s Harlem housing complex. Top: The Double Zero chair, designed for Italian furniture maker Moroso.

with a laugh. But even after turning his focus to more artistic pursuits, his path to the profession was indirect. It was only after designing some small-scale interiors with his art-school pals that he returned to school—London’s prestigious Royal College of Art—for his master’s in architecture. The following year, in 1994, Adjaye partnered with a friend to launch their own practice, and in 2000 he went solo. He quickly made a name for himself designing homes for a who’s who of art-world luminaries, among them Chris Ofili, Lorna Simpson, Jake Chapman and power couple Amalia Dayan and Adam Lindemann. “The influence of art practice on David’s work is palpable,” notes the Art Institute’s Zoë Ryan. “All of his buildings—large or small—insist on being accommodated as objects that share the space with those who inhabit them.” Adjaye claims that the most formative aspect of his design education was learned beyond the classroom. “I spent a lot of time going around the world experiencing great buildings firsthand,” he says. “Travel was a great teacher.” Of course, it’s one thing to see the sights and another to learn the true essence of a place. What sets Adjaye apart is his studious deep-dive into the local microculture of wherever he’s building. His work is contextually appropriate, but not in the sense that the materials or detailing riff on surrounding buildings or the regional style. Rather, his designs emerge from painstaking research into a place and its people. Adjaye has structured his practice to allow for an unusually in-depth programming phase during which a designer gets acquainted with the client, its needs and the peculiarities of the site. A few years ago, Adjaye set up a special department dedicated specifically to assisting him with this research. Members of the four-person team are deliberately not architects. They are social scientists, geographers, humanities majors and business consultants, psyches,” he says. “A public building affects vast commuas in the case of the department’s head, Ashley Shaw Scott, nities. If it alienates certain sectors of the community for Adjaye’s wife. The department collaborates on all of whatever reason, that’s a problem.” the firm’s projects, and does its own consulting work for That sense of social responsibility is rooted in his clients like Habitat for Humanity and the EU. upbringing, fueled by the experience of his youngest That team has been instrumental as Adjaye’s attention brother, Emmanuel, who became disabled as a child. turns increasingly toward Africa, a huge growth area as “Architecture wasn’t interesting to me until I found a well as a major challenge for the firm. “Building is not a purpose for it,” Adjaye explains. “And that came through straightforward process there,” he explains. “There’s my brother, observing how, before disability laws appeared a culture of contractors saying, ‘These are the five things in the ’80s, architecture segregated people.” The discipline we can do, and that’s it.’ We don’t accept that there are became intriguing once Adjaye saw it as a catalyst for only five ways of doing things, so we’re constantly having empowerment. “It was about taking on the ‘big art’ of to invent.” It’s clear that Adjaye sees this as an exciting architecture and making it into a service.” problem-solving exercise, and a weighty responsibility. “I think it’s essential that we are a part of the change in djaye thinks like an outsider because he Africa, helping develop the infrastructure and the economy. is one, both culturally, as a sort of citizen Otherwise, the work won’t get critical; it will remain of the world, and professionally. He was generic and banal.” not one of those kids rearranging his These days, Adjaye’s cross-continental journeying bedroom furniture and dreaming of one has slowed following the birth of his first child. “My poor day becoming an architect. “I actually kid,” he laments. “Two months in and he’s already made wanted to be a pilot,” he explains. A fascination with fast planes led him to join his first transatlantic flight.” Parental guilt aside, Adjaye is the air cadets as a child; he flew gliders in eager to keep up the pace, changing the world one building his teens. He considered joining the military until his father at a time. For now, however, the man who might be the world’s busiest architect says what he’s most interested in talked him out of it. “I remember having an awful fight with him that I am now very grateful he won,” Adjaye says is some shut-eye. “Sleep,” he says, “would be good.” ■

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culture

The Agitator

Known for his visually dynamic sculptures and photographic works, L.A. artist Walead Beshty draws inspiration from chance and the ghostly passage of objects through the material world WRITTEN BY JULIE L. BELCOVE

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROB KULISEK

An Artist’s POV Clockwise from top, Beshty in his L.A. studio; color and chemistry test strips; Copper Surrogate (60" x 120" 48 ounce C11000 Copper Alloy, 90º Bend, 120" Bisection/10 Sections: ... ), 2015, copper sculpture.

of whom helped lure him to L.A., which he calls a gentler city than New York. His star on the rise, Beshty has lately kept up a punishing schedule, including a recent twomonth stint in a Guadalajara ceramics factory to make his contribution to the Venice Biennale: cacophonous sculptures melded from debris left by past ceramics jobs and casts of the workers’ and his own hands, installed alongside collages fluttering from a pole that he fashioned from the Mexican tabloid newspapers. The works could be said to be “about” many things: labor, detritus, economic imperialism, ephemerality. But Beshty cautions against society’s tendency to put artists on pedestals. “Just because I’m an artist doesn’t mean that when I do something aesthetic it’s automatically more special.” ■

THE FULL TITLE OF WALEAD BESHTY’S A PARTIAL DISASSEMBLING IS SO LONG, IT CAN’T FIT IN THE 140-CHARACTER LIMIT OF A TWEET.

COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND PETZEL, NEW YORK

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nce Walead Beshty had gained traction with his conceptual, often photographyrelated art, he became intrigued with the furnishings of galleries showing his work in Los Angeles and London—with unexpected results. He suggested replacing all the galleries’ desks with sheets of polished copper, instructing staff to go about their business as usual. “The design of the gallery affects how people understand the work,” says Beshty, 39, based in Los Angeles. Over time, the staffers’ phone calls, note-taking and coffee cups left marks on the shiny “Copper Surrogates,” which Beshty then hung on the galleries’ walls like paintings. Much of Beshty’s work hinges on such social and commercial interactions. In his “FedEx” pieces, shatterproof glass cubes are displayed with the standard cardboard boxes in which they must be shipped, by Federal Express, each time they’re transported. Viewers might be drawn to the off-kilter Minimalism of the cracked and battered cubes, but in Beshty’s eyes, “the work really is only the airway bills. It’s an agreement between a receiver and a sender. It talks about possession.” The son of a Libyan father and an American mother, Beshty spent much of his youth in what he calls the “alienating suburban sameness” of Pennsylvania. “Why do things look the way they do?” became a constant question, he says. A mediocre student, he discovered the dark room in high school and became fascinated with how photographs are made— a curiosity that can be ascertained in his “Photograms.” Some of his latest, made by exposing curled photographic paper to light, will be shown at Petzel Gallery in New York beginning November 19. After graduating from Bard, he spent a year writing for Artforum, then entered Yale’s vaunted MFA program. He found the school lacking. “It’s pretty anti-intellectual; it’s kind of conservative,” says Beshty, who has a somewhat austere manner. But he found mentors in artists Roni Horn, PhilipLorca diCorcia and Catherine Opie, the last

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culture KATHERINE THE GREAT

With her star on the rise, Katherine Waterston is going from Silicon Valley to sorcery and beyond WRITTEN BY EDEN UNIVER PHOTOGRAPHED BY PETER ASH LEE STYLED BY PAUL FREDERICK

IMPROVISATION IS AN ESSENTIAL skill in any actor’s arsenal. And while Katherine Waterston readily admits her theatrical training has prepared her for all sorts of extemporaneous ad-libbing, the 35-year-old beauty’s latest role has her sticking closely to script. In Steve Jobs, Waterston—whose big break came in last year’s Inherent Vice—plays Chrisann Brennan, an Apple employee who just so happens to be the company founder’s longtime girlfriend and the mother of his first child. She’s a character Waterston slipped into without any need to improvise. “You get a script and feel a tremendous amount of compassion for a character, or you don’t,” Waterston says. “I was moved by Chrisann and impressed with her, too.” Of course, the compelling script might have a little something to do with its scribe: “I think Aaron Sorkin is our Shakespeare, or the closest that we have,” Waterston says of the Oscarwinning screenwriter. “He’s whip-smart and so exciting to be around.”

The admiration seems to be mutual. “The character I wrote is not easy to love,” Sorkin says, “but Katherine didn’t judge her at all. You never got the sense that she was thinking, I’ve got to find a way for them to love me. She was a pure actress and it showed.” In fact, it seems being impressed with Waterston is Hollywood’s new favorite pastime, considering the remarkable roles she’s winning. In addition to Steve Jobs, she’ll appear this fall opposite Elisabeth Moss in Queen of Earth, and she’s landed the lead role (playing the witch Porpentina) in the forthcoming Harry Potter spin-off Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them. It’s fair to say that talent and a taste for hard work run in the family. She is the daughter of actor Sam Waterston, and as Sorkin—who wrote for Waterston père on HBO’s The Newsroom—tells it, they share a drive. “She has her father’s work ethic and humanity—and she’s delightful to work with,” Sorkin says. “No matter how long her day was, Katherine would want to spend another hour just to get better.” Why not, she says, when the project is something so powerful. “The thing about [a film like this] is, you want to get it right,” she says. “It’s better than anything you could dream up.” The same could be said of almost everything happening for Waterston these days, though despite her accomplishments, the success hasn’t quite sunk in. “Sometimes,” she says, “I still feel like I’m talking about someone else.” ■ Razza dress, $1,350, MAX MARA, 212-879-6100.

TURNING BACK THE ROCK

They helped define the sound of the 1980s, but on their impressive new albums, these beloved bands are nothing if not modern

Duran Duran 1978 Simon Le Bon 56 “Hungry Like the Wolf” Paper Gods “Pressure Off ” Lindsay Lohan, Janelle Monáe

THE BAND YEAR THEY FORMED MAGNETIC FRONTMAN HIS CURRENT AGE THE HIT YOU KNOW THE NEW ALBUM NOTEWORTHY SINGLE MILLENNIAL COLLABORATORS

New Order 1980 Bernard Sumner 59 “Blue Monday” Music Complete “Restless” La Roux, Brandon Flowers

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AS GOOD AS GOLDWYN

Unexpected storytelling from Hollywood’s polymath progeny LIZ GOLDWYN’S RÉSUMÉ isn’t light reading. She’s been a filmmaker, jewelry designer, fashion editor and art curator— and now she can add novelist to the list. Her October fiction debut, Sporting Guide, is a dive into the world of 1890s Los Angeles and its booming prostitution industry. Here, Goldwyn discusses the project.

Peak Performance

What was it like making your first foray into fiction? I was nervous! This book is very much inspired by my own life, by people I know and conversations I’ve had. In a way the stories are contemporary, I’ve just placed them in this past world.

of the place, but it does get very dangerous very quickly.” This made Kormákur’s job much more challenging. “People were breaking down, saying, ‘I’m not sure I can do this,’ ” the director says. “I knew we’d come out the other end proud of ourselves, but that’s the thing about being a leader in an impossible situation—you have to get everyone to believe your bullshit.” In Clarke’s case, those impossible situations actually helped in his performance. “There’s less acting required,” he notes, “when you’re on a mountain, thinking about falling.” While Everest only shot as high as its titular mountain’s base camp—the rest filmed in the Italian Alps—there’s no question that those unpredictable encounters with nature were what gave the movie its spirit. “Every shot was a challenge, and there were avalanche warnings on our call sheets daily,” Kormákur says. “But I enjoyed that in a weird way. I had to work with what I had, and it kept me on my toes. Making this movie was very similar to the journey up that mountain.”—ADAM RATHE

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FOR BALTASAR KORMÁKUR,

whose Everest lands in theaters this fall, a trip up the world’s tallest mountain began in a somewhat familiar place. “It started in the bathtub,” he says. “I was reading the script and I just knew it was a movie I had to make.” It was after he toweled off that things got difficult. While climbing Everest is universally regarded as treacherous, making a movie there proved to be a daunting feat of its own. “It was an incredible challenge—even breathing up there is hard,” Kormákur says of shooting on the mountain, which earlier this year claimed more than a dozen lives in an avalanche. “We were dropped off in helicopters, but after that it was movie stars carrying their own gear and sleeping beneath electric blankets because it was so cold.” What kept talent including Jake Gyllenhaal and Josh Brolin from bolting was the stirring story of a disaster that struck the mountain in 1996 (and was immortalized by Jon Krakauer in his book Into Thin Air). “It wasn’t your average film role,” Jason Clarke, who stars as an expedition-leading mountaineer, says. “You feel the beauty

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The ups and downs of making a movie set 30,000 feet off the ground

What made 19th-century L.A.’s sex industry an interesting topic for you? Most people don’t even know that there was an L.A. before the movie business. When we romanticize the past of California it’s all about Hollywood, but my grandfather [movie mogul Samuel Goldwyn] made The Squaw Man—which is considered the first Hollywood film—in 1914, and that’s almost 20 years after this story takes place. Do you have a strict writing process? I’ve recently discovered writing standing up, which is a lifesaver. And even when I write at home, I’m not wearing sweatpants. I might be wearing a 1940s blue silk satin lounging robe, an Erdem dress or a 1950s print dress. It’s all about the kind of energy I feel at that particular moment in time. If there’s a recurring refrain in your work, what is it? I think a general theme for me is highlighting women who have been forgotten or ignored by society, and trying to give them a voice.—FRANCES DODDS

IN 1994 A RESEARCH TEAM DISCOVERED THAT EVEREST CONTINUES TO GROW APPROXIMATELY FOUR MILLIMETERS EVERY YEAR.

DOUGLAS HODGE & CLIVE OWEN

Old Times

Despite his countless hours on camera, Clive Owen’s first appearance on Broadway—in a production of Harold Pinter’s fractured love story Old Times—is somewhat anxiety inducing. “It’s my first play in many years, so I’m obviously nervous,” he says, “but because it was theater that made me fall in love with acting, I’m also excited.” Director Douglas Hodge is equally enthusiastic. “I find Old Times to be one of the sexiest plays around,” he says, “and it’s written with genuine poetry.” Indeed, the 1971 show holds up well. “The thing about great writing,” Owen says, “is it’s always worth reviving.”

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Owen, right, wears suit and shirt by GIORGIO ARMANI.

Leading the Way

Following a record-setting Broadway season, the actordirector teams behind fall’s most anticipated shows sound off on what it takes to stage a hit WRITTEN BY ADAM RATHE

PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN HOFFMANN

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culture JOHN DOYLE & JENNIFER HUDSON

The Color Purple

DOYLE: GROOMER: SCOTT MCMAHAN USING TOM FORD MEN AT KATE RYAN INC. HUDSON: HAIR: KIYAH WRIGHT AT MUZE AGENCY. MAKEUP: YOLANDA FREDERICK THOMPSON AT GOLDFINGER CREATIVE, ATLANTA GA.

Hudson, right, wears blouse by MAX MARA, skirt by DONNA KARAN, jewelry by DE BEERS and shoes by JIMMY CHOO.

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Jennifer Hudson’s no stranger to the spotlight, but when she makes her Broadway debut as Shug Avery in a revival of The Color Purple, she says the stakes will be decidedly high. “Broadway is something that has been a dream of mine for a long time,” the Oscar and Grammy winner says, “but it’s completely different from being on a movie screen or in a concert hall.” Hudson’s director, John Doyle, has faith her appeal will translate to the stage. “Jennifer’s a wonderful, unique performer,” he says. “I’m thrilled and honored to be directing her.”

IN 2012, THE CANDYMAKER CADBURY TRADEMARKED PANTONE 2685C, GIVING IT EXCLUSIVE RIGHTS TO THAT SHADE OF THE COLOR PURPLE.

GEORGE TAKEI & STAFFORD ARIMA

Allegiance

Takei, left, wears shirt by PRADA, sweater by ISAIA. Watch, pants and shoes, his own.

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TAKEI & ARIMA: GROOMER: SUSAN PHEAR. ROCKWELL & AUKIN: GROOMER: JORDAN LONG USING SK-II AT EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT.

It’s been a six-year journey bringing Allegiance to Broadway, but for the show’s creator and star, George Takei, that wait was worthwhile. “It’s been exhilarating and fulfilling,” he says of the new musical, which is based on his own childhood experience in a 1940s Japanese-American internment camp. For director Stafford Arima, working with Takei has been equally rewarding. “George is fearless as an actor,” he says. “He has always been an artist who has come with a full arsenal.” And why wouldn’t he? Speaking about Allegiance, Takei confesses, “This has been my life’s mission.”

SAM ROCKWELL & DANIEL AUKIN

Fool for Love

When Sam Rockwell first performed Sam Shepard’s Pulitzer Prize– nominated Fool for Love at the Williamstown Theatre Festival in 2014, he had more than just lines to learn. “I’ve done two Western movies, and I could’ve learned to lasso then and didn’t,” he says. “I’m still kicking myself.” Now that the show—rope tricks intact—is headed to Broadway, director Daniel Aukin is elated his production will have a second life. “Having actors like Sam and [co-star] Nina Arianda in these roles feels like catching lightning in a bottle,” he says. “It’s amazing we get to come back to it.” Rockwell, left, wears shirt and jacket by BURBERRY PRORSUM.

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Thérèse Raquin

“Ibsen, Strindberg and Chekhov all owe a debt to this story,” Evan Cabnet says of Thérèse Raquin, the Émile Zola–penned drama he’s directing this fall. It’s true that the story of love, murder and revenge is influential, and not only with playwrights. “I love the play,” says Judith Light, who stars in the production. “For the audience to have a window into this kind of animal nature is very potent.” Of course, Light’s not lacking in potency herself. “Judith is one of those actors you want to watch,” Cabnet says. “It’s the rarest and most valuable attribute there is.”

Light, right, wears blazer by THEORY from Bloomingdale’s, dress by NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, watch by CARTIER and pumps by GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI.

THE STORY OF THÉRÈSE RAQUIN HAS BEEN ADAPTED NUMEROUS TIMES, INCLUDING TWICE AS A RADIO SERIES, TWICE AS A SILENT FILM AND ONCE AS A MUSICAL.

LIGHT: HAIR: JENNIFER BRENT USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT. MAKEUP: JESSI BUTTERFIELD USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS AT EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT.

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EVAN CABNET & JUDITH LIGHT

culture

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THOMAS KAIL & LESLIE ODOM JR.

Hamilton

During its off-Broadway run, Hamilton—the political hop-hop musical by Lin-Manuel Miranda— earned a deafening buzz. Now that the show has hit Broadway, Leslie Odom Jr., who stars as Aaron Burr, feels that enthusiasm growing. “Every time there’s a new audience in the room, they’re thrilled to be there,” he says. According to director Thomas Kail, plenty of that excitement is Odom’s doing. “Leslie has a connection with the audience, and it’s something you can’t teach,” Kail says. “The energy transferring between 1,350 people and this company will give off a jolt of electricity I can’t wait to see.”

Odom Jr., right, wears suit and shirt by DIOR HOMME and shoes by FRATELLI ROSETTI. Stylist: Paul Frederick. Photographed on location at Sid Gold’s Request Room, New York City.

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GROOMER: JORDAN LONG USING SK-II AT EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT.

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MALE BONDING

DANIEL CRAIG

No!

But do you like playing him?

When I first started, they offered me a blank page, really, and what that means is I was allowed to add my own bits. I wanted there to be gags, and I wanted there to be funny bits, but I wanted them to come from a fresh place. Do you get nervous doing the stunts?

You always get nervous a bit. There was this part where I’d fucked up my knee halfway through shooting, which curtailed a lot of the serious action stuff. I’m so fucking gung ho about wanting to do every stunt I can, I had to ask, “What can I do, and what can’t I do?” How involved do you get in the scripts?

As much as I possibly can without treading on toes, although you have to offend some people sometimes to move on. I wanted desperately for Sam Mendes to do this movie, but at the time he had other commitments. I said he’s got to do it. We started something with him on the last movie,

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID BAILEY STYLED BY LUKE DAY

MARTIN McDONAGH I’m assuming you don’t care who plays Bond next …

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DANIEL CRAIG HAS SPENT NEARLY A DECADE PORTRAYING THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS SPY. BUT IN A SPIRITED CONVERSATION ON THE EVE OF THE NEW FILM “SPECTRE,” MARTIN McDONAGH DISCOVERS A VERY COMPLICATED RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN JAMES BOND AND THE MOVIE STAR WHO PLAYS HIM

the beginning of a relationship with a director I haven’t had in a long time. Then there was that added pressure because the last movie was huge and everyone’s asking, “What are you going to do now?” We’ve got to make a better movie, that’s what we’re going to do! Does that involve making it a bigger money-making movie?

Not for me. The idea that we’re going to make a lot of money from these, even now, is a strange one. That’s not how I started out. If they got into a cinema, “Yay! Success!” And you probably can’t put your finger on why the last one made so much more than the previous ones.

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Hollywood would disagree, wouldn’t they? They’d say going big is how you make lots of money, but I think, How many times have you watched that fail?

Obviously you were famous before the Bond thing, but is it the mobile phone stuff that’s changed everything?

There were phones back then, but nobody used the cameras. Or there was a rule, if someone did it, you’d be like, “What the fuck are you doing?!” My wife [Rachel Weisz] is the best in the world at all that, she’ll just turn to them and go, “No, thank you very much,” and they’re like, “OK.” Is it irritating, those things you can’t do anymore?

I mourn it slightly. I like to have a drink, and I love pubs and I love finding new pubs and places to socialize. But that has a limit on it now. Do you feel like you’ve lost out being able to observe drunks in a bar, and so forth?

Yes, and that’s a danger I think, because I love

How did you discover that? Hanging around with a lot of babies?

No, Mark Wahlberg. Who I don’t know, but I was told that’s what Mark swears by. It’s the difference between life and death as far as I’m concerned. Are there directors you really want to work with?

Yeah, you!

Me too! But do you actively seek out people to work with?

My wife is brilliant at that. We see a movie and the next thing you know, she’s having lunch with the director. I’m like, “How did that fucking happen?” But she just gets in touch and says, “I’d love to have a drink with you.” I don’t do enough of that; I wish I did. I really like directors, and I like talking about work.

I LOVE PLAYING DRUNKS. DRUNK, DAMAGED PEOPLE; IT’S LIKE, BRING THEM ON! When you start a Bond movie, do you know where you’re going to on day one: Thailand, Morocco, wherever?

Not definitely, no. On this one Mexico City opened up and offered to let us film there. What’s Mexico City like?

It ended up being one of my favorite cities I’ve ever been to, but you can get into an awful lot of trouble there. Tequila?

Anything you fucking want! Let’s go now! Talking of which, in terms of bars and such, can you still do all that these days?

Bars are hard, but that’s more because of mobile phones. I’ll do autographs all day long, and I’ll even do a picture at the end of an evening. But if I’m being photographed all night long in a bar, that pisses me off. If you ask, I may say yes, but come up to me and say, “Would you like to take a photograph with me?” If you’re fucking sneaking photographs of me … it’s human nature, you’re sneaking something! I’m being fucked with! But people don’t see it as a problem. Maybe I’m delusional. I don’t even have a phone. I don’t want to get into all that Twitter bullshit either.

What, and get abused? I have no idea. I don’t go on the Internet.

playing drunks. Drunk, damaged people; it’s like, bring them on! Was there a time you knew you’d be a working actor from then on?

I left drama school and said to myself, If I can’t make a living as an actor, I’m not going to embarrass myself for however long until the big break comes. Who are some of your heroes?

On a flight to New York recently, Alicia Keys and Desmond Tutu were on the plane. I didn’t go up to them. I smiled at Alicia Keys, but I couldn’t look Desmond Tutu in the eye. I wanted to go up to him and fall at his feet. It was one of those situations where I blew it completely. You should have gotten out your phone.

Yes, while they were asleep! That happens to me so often, you wake up to a phone in your face and you go, “What the fuck!” Ooh, that’s creepy!

So creepy! Which I call out: “That’s fucking creepy!” How do you deal with hangovers?

There’s this thing called Pedialyte. It’s basically a diuretic; you give it to kids who are dehydrated. If you wake up in the morning and you’ve got one of those on standby and you down the whole lot … you can carry on drinking!

What are you going to do in the next year or two?

Nothing, actually. I’d like to do some theater in New York. I’ve done Broadway and I was happy with that, but I don’t want to do Broadway anymore. Why?

The audience is all over 50, on the whole, and I think new faces and cheaper tickets are the only way forward. And it’s never going to happen. Do you write yourself?

I try to rewrite scenes, but I don’t think that classifies as … No, that’s called being a movie star.

That’s exactly right! That’s using some other writer as a platform … To destroy their writing.

Yeah, exactly, that’s what we’re looking at! ■

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GROOMER: GIANNI SCUMACI USING JOICO & MAC COSMETICS. PRODUCER: MARK PATTENDEN. STYLIST ASSISTANT: EMILY TIGHE.

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O ON THE GROUNDS OF PROVENCE’S ECCENTRIC, ARTFILLED PARADISE DOMAINE DES ANDÉOLS, YOU’LL FIND WARHOLS, AVANT-GARDE ARCHITECTURE AND A CENTURY’S WORTH OF FAMILY HISTORY WRITTEN BY IAN PHILLIPS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATTHIEU SALVAING

The view from Maison Rouge—one of Domaine des Andéols’ 10 cottages—which gets its name from the bold red accents scattered throughout the space.

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IN THE CHARMING PROVENÇAL REGION OF THE LUBERON—

where quaint villages and sweeping lavender fields are the main attraction—seclusion certainly isn’t hard to come by. It is perhaps most pronounced, though, within the confines of Domaine des Andéols, an 81-acre secluded haven just an hour’s drive east of Avignon. I’ve discovered this on the deck of Maison Rouge, one of the 10 isolated cottages that comprise the hilltop hamlet of Andéols. It’s a balmy afternoon in late spring, and I’ve just spent several hours lazing on a sun lounger that sits beside my private pool. There are birds tweeting, crickets chirping and uninterrupted views of the surrounding countryside. Inside the gates of Maison Rouge, I am in a world of my own. It would be technically accurate to call Andéols a “hotel”—the property is open to guests seven months out of the year—but it is also an artist’s retreat and gallery, showcasing a collection of more than 250 works. “Every one of the Maisons is like a voyage. In each, we tried to create a unique universe,” explains owner Olivier Massart, a former photographer who now runs La Mode en Images, a hip Paris-based events company that has staged runway shows for clients like John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier. Massart and his wife, Patrizia, a former model, are avid art collectors—they designed each Maison around a distinct theme, which in most cases was inspired by a piece they already owned. The starting point of the tribal-themed Maison du Voyageur, for instance, was a series of masks from Ghana, Nigeria and the Congo. Today, it is also home to a stuffed Bengal tiger. The Maison Blanche (“White House”) is meant to evoke Greece; the Maison des Cascades (“House of Waterfalls”), Japan. Andéols is no doubt a reflection of the Massarts, a family that has creativity in its bloodline. Olivier’s father, Jean, was the CEO of Christian Dior; his grandfather, Pierre, was a dentist and passionate artist who bought what still serves as the family’s private home there in 1918. Today, several of Pierre’s sculptures and mosaics are scattered around the grounds.

At right: The treetop dining room is built into a 400-year-old plane tree and has seating for 15. Below: The dramatic staircase in Maison Rouge. Opposite page: A small water channel runs down the middle of the stairs. The spherical sculptures are made from plants.

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“ EVERY ONE OF THE MAISONS IS LIKE A VOYAGE. IN EACH, WE TRIED TO CREATE A UNIQUE UNIVERSE.”–OLIVIER MASSART

Clockwise from top left: The property’s communal pool; the Domaine’s traditional dry stone façade offers a stark contrast to the modern interiors; breathtaking views of the countryside from the bar terrace.

Right: The dining area inside Maison Rouge, where bold red accents take center stage.

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It was in the late 1990s that Olivier decided to acquire not only the other houses in the hamlet, but also an adjacent farm. “A lot of things were completely abandoned,” recalls Patrizia. Together, they set about restoring the buildings, and instead of creating simple rooms or suites, opted to propose a series of houses, or “Maisons.” The Massarts’ initial intent was twofold: to run the property as a hotel during the summer months and as a residence for artists during the winter. In time, however, they realized it was not financially feasible to keep it open year-round, so they set aside their cultural ambitions and now welcome guests from the first weekend of April to the end of October. Nevertheless, art is still very present. The Domaine regularly organizes exhibitions in collaboration with the cutting-edge Parisian gallery Kamel Mennour, and the Maisons are decorated with works by the likes of Andy Warhol, Ellen von Unwerth and David LaChapelle. Indeed, while the exteriors of the stone and ochre stucco buildings are quintessentially Provençal, the decoration inside is in striking contrast. There is a whole host of flashy, bright colors and an impressive collection of both 20th century and contemporary design—Ron Arad and Isamu Noguchi sofas, René Herbst and Harry Bertoia chairs, Serge Mouille lights, a custom chandelier created in situ by Pucci de Rossi. It’s the quirky kind of place that attracts the fashionable and famous—among Andéols’ guests have been Hugh Jackman, Ridley Scott and Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci. But you aren’t likely to bump into a celebrity guest—or any guest for that matter—considering the vastness of the property. Unless, of course, they are indulging beside you in the hotel’s treetop dining room, a wooden platform built 23 feet above ground into the branches of a majestic plane tree. It is here that I first meet Cesare, Olivier and Patrizia’s genial son, who helps manage the property. He explains over lunch that during World War II, his great-grandfather cared for patients at one of the springs by this very tree. (“The pure water was

Left: A view from the Japanese-inspired Maison des Cascades. Right: The water channel is surrounded on either side by lavender.

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“ EVEN WHEN THE HOTEL IS FULL, GUESTS STILL HAVE THE IMPRESSION THEY’RE ON THEIR OWN.” –CESARE MASSART the best guarantee against infection,” he says.) Two generations later, guests can be found in the same spot, dining on fresh-caught sea bass prepared by Belgian chef Steve Deconinck. In former times, the Massarts ran the restaurant in partnership first with Alain Ducasse, and then Guy Martin of the Michelin-starred eatery Le Grand Véfour in Paris. Over the years, however, they have oriented the cuisine toward more simplicity. Chef Deconinck’s focus is placed firmly on the quality of the products, most of which are either sourced locally or come from the Domaine’s two vegetable gardens. There are 15 different types of basil, for example, and breakfast includes eggs laid by the Domaine’s own chickens, as well as artisanal jams from the neighboring village of Gargas. The Luberon’s villages are unquestionably the region’s draw. Several are perched atop hills, the most popular being Gordes, with its Cistercian abbey, and Roussillon, famous for its pigments and ochres. Yet many visitors will be happy simply staying put at the Domaine, lounging by the pool or exploring the grounds. There is a Japanese garden with bamboo, rocks and gravel, a piece of Land Art in the form of a spiral hillock, several ponds and an enclosure housing not only goats and geese but also gypsy caravans formerly for staff. Olivier planted the slender cypress trees as a reminder of Patrizia’s native Italy. “He wanted to add a touch of Tuscany so she wouldn’t feel homesick,” says Cesare. In the coming years, the Massarts are planning a number of other additions—a 2,200-square-foot spa for 2017 and 10 new suites, the first of which they hope will be ready for the 2016 season. Located downslope from the main swimming pool, the new suites will be outfitted with solar panels and extremely discreet. The plan is to embed them in the earth so they won’t alter the property’s physiognomy—an approach that aligns perfectly with the Domaine’s ethos. “Everything has always been thought out so that even when the hotel is full, guests still have the impression they’re on their own,” says Cesare. That sense of solitude is easily the best part. ■

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LADY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JESSICA CRAIG-MARTIN

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STYLED BY KARLA MARTINEZ DE SALAS

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FROM A DISCREET BROOCH TO A HIGH-CLASS HANDBAG AND SLINGBACK HEEL, ACCESSORIES ONCE DEEMED PRIM AND PROPER REVEAL THEIR ROMANTIC (DARE WE SAY SEXY?) SIDE

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LIFE AFTER DR. BRANDT

WRITTEN BY LYNN SCHNURNBERGER

LOSING A DOCTOR IS NEVER EASY. WHEN IT’S A DERMATOLOGIST BELOVED BY THE A-LIST WORLDWIDE, IT’S A “NOW WHAT?” CATASTROPHE

JOHANNA PARKIN/GETTY IMAGES

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and held in Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall. Some of the guests were too embarrassed to speak above a murmur. But in the weeks that followed his death, patients asked one another in voices growing steadily louder and more urgent: Whose hands should we trust our faces to? There were the obvious choices: Dr. David Colbert (who has compared the skin to an expensive fabric “that should be maintained like your finest cashmere sweater”), Drs. Patricia Wexler, Ellen Gendler, Melanie Grossman, Doris Day, Roy Geronemus, Lisa Airan, Joel Kassimir, Dennis Gross—there is no dearth of contenders. (And I’m sure I’ll hear even more names from readers disgruntled over the omission of their favorite, so let me here offer a pre-apology.) “One person called me with a list of eight names, asking me which doctor I thought she should go to,” says beauty doyenne and Allure contributing editor at large Joan Kron, who declines making recommendations because she doesn’t think it’s an appropriate role for journalists. Not every doctor is simply sitting back and waiting for Dr. Brandt’s patients to come to them. Melinda Farina, the president and founder of the patient-referral service Integrated Aesthetics Consulting, says that she’s noticed a number of MDs trying to capitalize on Dr. Brandt’s demise by co-opting his trademark techniques: “They’re putting all of their money into optimizing their online Google searches and investing in key words like ‘Liquid face-lift’ or ‘Y face-lift,’ all of the procedures he was best known for.” Superstar colorist Sharon Dorram has bestowed beautifully natural color reminiscent of children’s hair on Barbra Streisand, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate Hudson,

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ext messages were flying last spring between a half dozen or so friends in the beauty industry—hairdressers, stylists, those in-the-know about how New York City’s celebrities and socialites maintain their appearance—when Madonna was spotted slipping into the entrance of 1049 Fifth Avenue. Was she scooping up a new residence in the posh condominium building? Possibly. But more likely? After the death of her beloved dermatologist, Dr. Fredric Brandt, weeks earlier, she was searching for a new doctor to wield the injectables that keep her looking age-indeterminate. And dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank just happens to have offices at 1049 Fifth. It looked like the Queen of Pop was anointing a new clinician. When asked to verify the rumor of taking on Madonna as a client, Dr. Frank demurred, explaining that he was inhibited by state privacy laws and that, of course, he could not confirm or deny that the iconic singer was a patient. He did offer this: “Either way, the truth always comes out in the end.” The truth of where the many prominent clients of Dr. Brandt are taking their business is not easily obtained, however. It was a key question that circulated among mourners at his April memorial, hosted by socialite Lisa Marie Falcone, wife of hedge fund manager Philip Falcone

he sad circumstances of Dr. Brandt’s death make such maneuvers particularly questionable. “Why, Fred, why?” comedian and talk-show personality Joy Behar asked plaintively at Dr. Brandt’s invitation-only memorial. More than 400 wrinkle-free boldfaced names, from TV star Kelly Ripa to actress Blythe Danner to fashion icons Carolina Herrera and Calvin Klein, packed the auditorium. As we sat facing the stage, usually home to the Lincoln Center Chamber Music Society, we agreed that Fred would have adored the 3,000 white orchids filling it now. A beauty editor sitting next to me whispered, “If only Dr. B. could have seen the love here today, do you think he would have done it?” All of us who knew and admired him were stunned by the news that the pioneering doctor who used Botox as far back as the early ’90s—when it sounded absolutely insane

Dr. Brandt became a best friend, almost a family member, to his patients, even the famous ones, like Kelly Ripa.

that’s hard to manage in any field. He specialized in the “Y” lift, injecting filler beneath the cheekbone to add volume to the face, helping patients avoid surgery. In a youth-obsessed society, some patients came to see him in their twenties, and others checked in once a month, although he never let anyone go overboard. One day, as I was trailing him for a story I was working on, he introduced me to the mother of a famous movie producer who had been to the office only weeks earlier. “You don’t need anything, darling, you look beautiful!” he said, sending her off feeling gorgeous without the aid of a needle. He was a dandy who bought designer clothes from Lanvin and Givenchy off the runway, an avid art collector of pieces by the likes of Damien Hirst and Richard Prince, a health nut who gave up sugar and then periodically snuck a cookie. Hundreds of clients considered him an intimate. After spending half an hour dishing with Dr. B. about his latest Prada purchase or any show in HGTV’s lineup (Fred loved decorating his Coconut Grove home and his 25thfloor apartment overlooking New York’s trendy High Line), it was impossible to leave the office and not feel like you were his bestie. Carl Sheusi, Dr. Brandt’s yoga instructor for over 10 years, saw him the day before he died. “I knew he was depressed,” Sheusi says, as did others closest to him. In the week before his death, Dr. B. canceled appointments, something he never did. Dr. Joel Kassimir, who saw one of Dr. Brandt’s former patients not long after his death, says she told him that “the last time I saw Dr. B. he wasn’t singing.” A sure sign that something was terribly wrong. Then there is the Kimmy Schmidt theory. While his friend and publicist, Jacquie Tractenberg, downplayed the idea that Martin Short’s parody of him on the Tina Fey Netflix series Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt had anything to do with Dr Brandt’s suicide, others close to Dr. B. believe the caricature pushed him over the edge. Now everyone is forced to move on. Dr. Frank seems to be one of the leading successors to Dr. Brandt. When pressed, he said he was getting “about five calls a day” from Dr. Brandt’s former patients, who he’s squeezing into an already busy practice. “While it’s nice to be

“ONE PERSON CALLED ME WITH A LIST OF EIGHT NAMES, ASKING ME WHICH DOCTOR I THOUGHT SHE SHOULD GO TO NOW.” —JOAN KRON to inject botulinum toxin into your forehead—our friend, our confidant, the doctor who made up rap songs and sang show tunes during our appointments and who made the business of serums and syringes positively fun, had taken his own life. Gwyneth Paltrow and supermodel Stephanie Seymour were clients, and with offices in New York and Miami, Fred Brandt was considered by many to be one of the country’s premier dermatologists for 20 years—a feat

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to name a few—as well as some of the top fashion and beauty professionals in the city. In the elegant Upper East Side salon she shares with business partner and hairdressing icon Sally Hershberger, Dorram has been privy to some disturbing jockeying. “Some of the dermatologists who sit in my chair have been mercenary in asking me to recommend them to clients—so offensive, so soon after Fred’s death,” says Dorram, a close friend of Dr. Brandt’s who was still reeling over his passing when we talked. “And I didn’t see it myself, but one of my clients said that a certain derm was actually giving out cards at Dr. Brandt’s memorial.” Another shady development: doctors who claim to be flooded with desperate A-list clients … but aren’t. After all, who’s going to fact-check it? One lesser known dermatologist I spoke to alleged that he was seeing “dozens of Dr. Brandt’s patients,” a dubious claim that sounded like an attempt to push his name into the ranks of A-listers.

seeing all of these new people, it’s tough that they’re here because Fred’s gone,” he said, a sentiment echoed by many colleagues. Other clients are taking comfort in continuing to see Dr. Brandt’s protégé, the gentle and talented Dr. Robert Anolik, who worked with Dr. B. for over five years. “Dr. A.” and “Dr. B.” were more than colleagues and disciple– teacher; they were good friends who talked about life and work on walks home and during Sundays in the park with Dr. Anolik’s family. Self-deprecatingly, Dr. A. told me he was “Dr. B.’s Ed McMahon,” invoking talk-show host Johnny Carson’s legendary sidekick. Longtime Dr. Brandt fan Kelly Ripa gave me a more appropriate analogy. “Dr. Anolik’s the young Jedi, the Luke Skywalker,” she said, in a phone interview. “Dr. Brandt would literally put his hand on top of Dr. A’s to teach him all of his techniques. The first time I saw Dr. Brandt was to get Botox under my arms to stop sweating,” Ripa remembers. “For the injections to work you have to be sweating when you get them, but Dr. B. made me so comfortable, I was laughing so much, that I couldn’t sweat. I feel that same level of comfort with Dr. Anolik. Going to see him feels like going to see family.”

HEIR APPARENT

Dr. Robert Anolik has a reputation for being a wizard with a laser. What insiders know is that Dr. Brandt trained “Dr. A.” to perform the signature Y lift and other procedures that made Dr. Brandt famous. With hands that learned directly from Brandt, Dr. Anolik seems poised to carry on the doctor’s legacy.

OLD GUARD/NEW TECHNIQUES

Part skin maven and part Jewish mother, Dr. Patricia Wexler was a pioneer in performing liposuctions way back in 1986 and has maintained her cutting-edge rep these days with a minimum use of scalpels. Dr. Pat is one of those MDs patients call for everything—she’s everybody’s best girlfriend. POP-STAR ANNOINTED?

With or without Madonna, Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank has a star-studded clientele that is about 40 percent male. With his chiseled good looks, Frank is a walking advertisement for his treatments, including the trademarked UT, or UltraTight procedure, which gets rid of those pockets of fat underneath the chin.

RISING STAR

Wait time for a first appointment with Dr. Dendy Engelman can be two or three months. That’s because this Southerner brings an appealingly moderate approach to injectables. “I’d rather do a little and have you come back in two weeks,” she told me. (Except I didn’t need that second visit.) ONE OF THE ORIGINALS

With offices in New York City’s Flatiron district, Dr. David Colbert counts Naomi Watts and Michelle Williams as clients. Colbert was an early adopter of Ultherapy (the ultrasound, non-surgical procedure that lifts facial muscles and tightens the neck), claiming it’s more popular than Botox with his patients.

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CONTENDERS: COURTESY

What happens when the irreplaceable must be replaced? Patients are finding their way to these five respected docs

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t’s strange to go to the old offices and see the waiting rooms stripped of Dr. Brandt’s paintings. Gone too are shelves filled with the stylish black and white boxes containing Dr. Brandt’s acclaimed skin-care line—if you want some of his cleverly titled Needles No More or D.N.A. (“Do Not Age”) serums, you’ll have to buy them online or at Sephora. There’s an intimacy and a rapport you have with someone you’re entrusting your face to that you don’t necessarily need with a doctor who’s giving you a flu shot. In my case, I talked to my friends, received some names and, with some trepidation, went to see Dr. Dendy Engelman, Sofía Vergara’s dermatologist. It turns out “Dr. Dendy” has a light hand, a good eye and a lovely manner—and she’s a hugger. I’m planning to see her again. “In other areas of medicine doctors are taught to keep their distance, but in dermatology we’re dealing with a person’s psyche, their self-esteem,” says noted skin savant Dr. Patricia Wexler. “Patients and doctors exchange confidences—you become like a best friend or family. Especially a doctor like Fred Brandt, who went to parties with clients. He went to synagogue with their parents.” Dr.Wexler, for one, doesn’t want to see Dr. Brandt’s devotees, at least not right away. “The first person a patient goes to see after Fred will be their Deborah Norville,” she says, referring to Jane Pauley’s unpopular replacement on Today. “They’ll still be grieving and on the rebound.” “A lot of doctors are very good—there’s no one who’s ‘the best,’ ” says Kron. “After a reasonable amount of time, everyone will find a new doctor. And they’ll do a good job. But the experience of getting injections is never going to be the same as it was, as feeling you were loved by Fred.” ■

THE CONTENDERS

SETTING THE TONE

WITH INTENSE COLORS AND UNEXPECTED NEW TEXTURES, FALL’S MAKEUP COLLECTIONS GET DOWN TO DETAIL PHOTOGRAPHED BY GUIDO MOCAFICO

EDITED BY LAURENCE HOVART

Kohl Eyeliner, $75, SERGE LUTENS, sergelutens.com. Dior Vernis in Black Out #982, $27, DIOR, dior.com.

La Laque Couture Populator in Orange Drop #66, $27,

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Le Vernis in Rouge Acajou #28, $22, GIVENCHY, barneys.com. Luminous Cheek Color in Apricot, #27, DOLCE & GABBANA , $46, nordstrom.com. Pure Color Envy Matte Rouge in Desirous, $30, ESTÉE LAUDER , esteelauder.com. Eye & Brow Maestro #10, $34, GIORGIO ARMANI, giorgioarmanibeauty.com.

Vernis à Ongles in Hippie Chic, $16, KURE BAZAAR , kurebazaar .com. Velvet Shadow Stick in Goddess, $28, NARS, narscosmetics.com. Chubby Stick Cheek Colour in Amp’d Up Apple, $21, CLINIQUE , clinique.com. New Nudes, Sheer Lip Gel in Moody Margot #106, $30, MARC JACOBS, marcjacobsbeauty.com. Skin Illuminating Powder Duo, $80, TOM FORD, tomford.com.

ALL ABOUT

TAMARA

WHEN THE TABLOIDSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; FAVORITE HEIRESS FASHIONED HER DREAM HOME, SHE HAD ONE PRIORITY: CREATE A COMFORT ZONE. DID TAMARA ECCLESTONE SUCCEED? PHOTOGRAPHED BY SIMON WATSON

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WRITTEN BY STEPHEN HEYMAN

Opposite: The bespoke basement bowling tunnel with over 2,000 individually controlled LED lights, Swarovski crystal back panel and custom engraved black mirror finish lane. Above: The nightclub has a full bar, DJ access points, a two-way fish tank and mirrored walls and ceilings with hidden LED lights that can beat and change color with the music.

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Clockwise from top left: Customized Range Rover from Overfinch; Max Wiedemannâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Closer to God in Heels neon; a Chanel bag sculpture, from the Guy Hepner gallery in L.A., sits in a hallway outside the nightclub; Ecclestoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s portrait, a Christmas gift from sister Petra; deco bas-relief panel with gold leaf; a crystal-embellished phone; a Venini chandelier from 1965.

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“I WANTED A HOUSE THAT WASN’T A MUSEUM, THAT WAS HOMEY AND I COULD PLAY IN. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY VERY GRAND, BUT I DIDN’T WANT IT TO FEEL COLD.”

alace Green is the most exclusive street in London, home to embassies and foreign-born plutocrats who have bought their way onto the top rung of British aristocracy. Armed sentries patrol the tall gates. Across the street, in Kensington Palace, is the residence of Prince William and Kate Middleton. But one house sits in the middle of the street, between the homes of an Indian steel magnate and the Norwegian ambassador. This stately red-brick Georgian façade hides the very unnatural habitat of Tamara Ecclestone. The jet-setting Londoner bought the historic house in 2011 and spent two years transforming it with interior architect Gavin Brodin into a postmodern temple to glamorous celebration. Spending time inside the house with its proud owner can help answer a question that’s on many people’s minds: What kind of woman is Tamara Ecclestone? The kind who displays a nearly life-size brass sculpture of herself eight months pregnant. The kind who buys a Birkin bag in every color and displays them in purpose-built cubbies like the rare totems of some long-lost pre-Columbian civilization. Many of the contents of Ecclestone’s home seem to stretch credulity, as if she were trying to condense the entire urban experience of being an heiress into a single space, albeit a very large one. There is a salon with a nail bar and hair station, a movie theater, a subterranean pool and Jacuzzi, a bowling alley, even a nightclub. “We’ve had some great parties in here,” she tells me. “Look at the scratches on the bar from people’s stilettos.” Television personality, entrepreneur, budding philanthropist, Ecclestone, 31, is most famous in Britain for creatively spending her share of the fortune amassed by her father, the Formula One chief executive Bernie Ecclestone. If you don’t read Hello! magazine or British tabloids, you might not be familiar with her more recent exploits: the reality show (Billion $$ Girl), the heartbreaks (one boyfriend blackmailed her, another’s philandering was caught on video), the arrival of her white knight (Jay Rutland, a dashing stockbroker turned real estate developer), the French Riviera wedding (Elton John and Lionel Richie performed), the baby girl (Sophia), the line of posh hair products (Show Beauty), the expanding network of blow-dry bars in Dubai, Hong Kong and Notting Hill. Vainglorious, vapid, vulgar—Ecclestone has heard all of the above, and worse. She once said bad press made her

“want to run a warm bath and cut my wrists.” There are subgenres of British newspapering devoted to her taste (or lack thereof) and the ethicality of her conspicuous consumption. “I’m not a spoilt, ungrateful brat who doesn’t know the value of money,” she said during one interview. “I’m so grateful for everything I have. My dad worked so hard for it—why should I feel ashamed?” Her strenuous dedication to luxury is so uncomplicated, so unself-consciously transgressive, that it almost comes across as innocent. She doesn’t laugh off her Playboy cover, or say she regrets it, but instead keeps a blowup of the magazine hanging in her home next to images of idols like Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot. Why these women? “Simply because I like them. I think they’re beautiful.”

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“THE THINGS PEOPLE SAY ABOUT ME DON’T BOTHER ME ANYMORE.” It is late June and Ecclestone is sitting in her breakfast room, wearing gauzy white pajamas. Her very green eyes are heavy, her glossy mane is swept up, her face aglow. She just flew in from a vacation in the Bahamas where a photo she Instagrammed of herself breast-feeding in the hotel pool erupted into a minor Internet controversy. She tells me she designed her house to be a “family home” and talks fondly about her own childhood house, with her Croatian model mother feeding everyone spaghetti Bolognese. “I wanted a house that was like that, that wasn’t a museum, that was homey and I could play in,” she says. “This is obviously very grand, but I didn’t want it to feel cold. I didn’t want it to be overly modern.” Ecclestone speaks with a posh accent—what they call Sloane Ranger here, a reference to Sloane Square, where Ecclestone attended the exclusive girls’ school Francis Holland. Its motto: “That our daughters may be as the polished corners of the temple.” Despite all her heiress excesses, Ecclestone has begun a new life centered on motherhood, and it’s hard not to be disarmed by her doting on Sophia, whom she calls “monkey.” Photos of her daughter hang in dizzying abundance on nearly every wall. Being a mom has also had the ironic effect of shrinking the house for Ecclestone, since she now spends all of her time in the kitchen cooking for Sophia, in the family room playing with her or in the bedroom where they sleep together on an emperor-size mattress. “It’s amazing how when you have a baby, how you think you’re going to live is completely different from how you do live,” she says. “I don’t care so much about so many things. I have a lot less free time. The things people say about me don’t bother me anymore. Not wearing nail polish doesn’t bother me anymore.” She looks down at Sophia and smiles. “But it’s all worthwhile, because you’re such a gorgeous little monkey!” ■

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Clockwise from opposite bottom left: One of many vast hallways in the home; a Tracey Emin heart commissioned by Petra as a wedding gift; a Tyler Shields photograph of Ecclestone hangs in the nightclub; the exterior of her home; an Alec Monopoly artwork commissioned for her daughter, Sophia; her nail salon and pedicure stations; HermĂ¨s Birkin bags and hair products from Ecclestoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s line Show Beauty in her summer closet; personalized Nutella jars.

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Blazer, price upon request, THOM SWEENEY, thomsweeney.co.uk. T-shirt, $248, JOHN VARVATOS , johnvarvatos.com. Trousers, $900, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, 212-334-1010. Star 4810 Automatic watch, $3,255, MONTBLANC, tourneau.com. Loafers, price upon request, HUDSON, hudsonshoes.com. Socks, $28, FALKE, mrporter.com.

THE UNSTOPPABLE CHIWETEL EJIOFOR

WRITTEN BY ADAM RATHE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ADAM WHITEHEAD STYLED BY WILLIAM GILCHRIST

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t wasn’t really the end of the world, it was only New Zealand. Still, living somewhere in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, filming Z for Zachariah, a movie about life after a nuclear end of days, Chiwetel Ejiofor couldn’t help but consider how he himself would handle such circumstances. “That’s probably the worst thing imaginable,” the London-born actor says now. “The post-apocalyptic world is completely terrifying; I wouldn’t last five minutes.” Considering the schedule Ejiofor keeps, you think he’d be grateful for the peace and quiet. When we speak, he’s been from London to Los Angeles and back within 72 hours, and this fall, in addition to Zachariah—a threehander also featuring Chris Pine and Margot Robbie— Ejiofor will star as an FBI agent opposite Nicole Kidman and Julia Roberts in the Billy Ray–penned thriller Secret in Their Eyes and play a NASA scientist in Ridley Scott’s latest intergalactic romp, The Martian. While the characters couldn’t be more different, the similarity among them that the 38-year-old says he spots is a tendency toward infatuation. It’s a quality Ejiofor can relate to. “Outside of work, there isn’t much room for myself,” he says. “Acting is my complete obsession; it feels like it was what I was born to do.” Plenty of other people—notably those involved in casting—feel the same way. Ejiofor’s worked steadily since the late 1990s, when he first made waves in films

like Amistad and Dirty Pretty Things, though his star has been exceptionally ascendant in recent years, thanks to parts like his Oscar-nominated, BAFTA-winning role in 12 Years a Slave and his Golden Globe–nominated turn in the BBC drama Dancing on the Edge. To hear his colleagues tell it, Ejiofor’s not only a prolific actor but also one who’s apparently a pleasure to be around. “The thing about Chiwetel,” says Zachariah director Craig Zobel, “is that he elevates everything he does. He wasn’t just an actor, he felt like a partner in making this movie.” Zobel’s quick to add that their bond wasn’t broken when the cameras turned off. “You never see it in the movie, but we happened to be right by a beach,” the director explains. “So pretty much every weekend, someone would organize a crazy costume party and all of us got roaringly drunk. Somewhere there are pictures of all of us in togas, but everybody was having a good time making the movie, and I feel like you can see that.” And while Ejiofor insists his own brand of fun is a bit lower key—he admits to a birthday spent at Wimbledon but otherwise claims home renovation as his most cherished pastime—there’s no denying the spark he shows when he talks about his craft. “I’m doing this play at the moment in London at the National Theater, and someone was asking me yesterday if I ever kind of get bored by it,” he says. “That was such a funny thing to me because there are 1,200 new people every day coming to see the story. It’s really very exciting.” ■

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GROOMER: CARLOS FERRAZ USING CRÈME DE LA MER AT CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT. PRODUCER: CRAIG SHIPMAN. STYLIST ASSISTANT: NIC JOTTKANDT.

FOLLOWING FALL’S MOST IN-DEMAND ACTOR ALL THE WAY TO THE APOCALYPSE

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY CEDRIC BUCHET

STYLED BY ANNE CHRISTENSEN

THIS FALL’S TACTILE TEXTURES, APPARENT IN PIECES FROM CHUNKY KNITS TO SUMPTUOUS FURS, PUT SUBLIMELY TOUCHABLE STYLE WITHIN REACH

MORE THAN A FEELING

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Turtleneck, $1,140, STELLA MCCARTNEY, net-a-porter.com. Gown, $9,600, VALENTINO, 212-355-5811.

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Dress, $1,050, WES GORDON, net-a-porter.com.

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Gayane cape, $675, MAJE, maje.com. Sweater, $1,595, GABRIELA HEARST, barneys.com.

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Patchwork poncho, $4,990; Turtleneck, $1,690, RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION, ralphlauren.com. Original 1000 Mile boot, $369, WOLVERINE 1000 MILE, stevenalan.com.

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Parka, $1,690, CARVEN, carven.com.

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Coat, $11,000, FENDI, 212-897-2244. Bodysuit, $695, GABRIELA HEARST, barneys.com. Original 1000 Mile boot, $369, WOLVERINE 1000 MILE, stevenalan.com. Hair: Bryce Scarlett for Oribe at The Wall Group. Makeup: Maki Hasegawa using Tom Ford at The Wall Group. Casting: Ros Okusanya. Talent: Kelly Mittendorf at Society. Stylist assistant: Rachel Pincus. Photographed on location in Rhinebeck, NY.

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GRAPES WRATH AND

ONCE AN ICONIC CENTER FOR SELLING BIG WINES FOR BIG MONEY, NAPA HAS IN RECENT YEARS EXPERIENCED A CRACK IN ITS GENTEEL FAÇADE. COULD THE BLOODY SCENE A FEW MONTHS BACK AT DAHL VINEYARDS SPEAK TO A NEW FUTURE OF AMERICAN WINEMAKING?

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him as much taller. He was loud and profane. He liked to ride Harleys, preferred hanging out with construction workers and cops and, even though he was 47, wasn’t above wrestling with his friends in the snow. WRITTEN BY JESSE HYDE PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCH FEINBERG Both, it turned out, were archetypal Napa figures playing out roles that had come to define the valley. Like Cesare Mondavi, the patriarch of the family that put Napa on the map, Dahl arrived with little more than ambition and hunger. In Napa he would reinvent himself, just like the Mondavis had. Tawfilis represented a more common character: the burnt-out millionaire who liked the bohemian ideal of a vineyard, of not just making money as a second act but living in a place where the air was redolent of pine and dust and where even very rich men drove around in pick-up trucks and helped during the crushing of the grapes. That dream in mind, he’d invested $1.2 million in the Patio Wine Company, Dahl’s umbrella firm. Now, though, Dahl was in debt, and not just to Tawfilis but also to a number of investors, many of whom had filed lawsuits against him. On top of that, the county had ordered him to stop offering tours and tastings, effectively putting Dahl Vineyards out of business. Tawfilis still had faith he could recoup at least some of his money, which, at MAD TAWFILIS entered the least from his end, was the purpose of the meeting. gate of Dahl Vineyards and parked in the shade. It was a Tawfilis’ attorney, David Wiseblood, had advised him warm spring morning in March, and the air had a rich, not to go. He didn’t think Dahl capable of violence, but the earthy smell. He could see why people fell for the place. The vineyard sat back a few hundred yards from Highway man was unpredictable. His recent court filings had veered toward the bombastic and unhinged, and suggested a man 29, the iconic strip of blacktop that runs through the Napa unraveling. If they were going to meet, they should meet in Valley, at the foot of the Mayacamas range. Had circuma public place, Wiseblood suggested, such as Wiseblood’s stances been different, Tawfilis would have come here on weekends from his home in the Bay Area to walk among the office in downtown San Francisco. But Dahl had insisted on meeting at the winery. The financial documents related trellised vines and watch the pickers in the hazy morning to their settlement were all there. Eager to reach a resolulight. He could have made great wine here. Could have, should have. It was hard not to think what might have been. tion, Tawfilis had agreed and now sat across from Dahl at a long oak table that had previously been used for tastings. Tawfilis had met Robert Dahl, who leased the vineyard The meeting began at 11 a.m. with a conference call and owned the winery, a barnlike building of dark wood that stood near a strand of oak trees, in 2011. In almost involving both men’s attorneys, one located in San every way, the two men were opposites: An accountant at Francisco and the other in Beverly Hills. When they Cisco, Tawfilis was a loner—his only companion a black couldn’t reach an agreement, Dahl’s attorney suggested Lab he brought with him everywhere, even to court—and he and his client talk offline. Twenty minutes later, Dahl was slight of build, with a strong jawline and thick, dark pulled out a .22 caliber pistol equipped with a silencer hair that he usually wore swept back. He spoke softly and and shot Tawfilis in the chest. never swore. And yet, beneath that exterior lay a ferocity At 11:49 a.m., Tawfilis called 911. of will that had come to surprise Dahl. As a cross-country “Help me!” he cried out. “He shot me!” He was standrunner in high school, Tawfilis pushed himself so hard he’d ing outside the winery, his own blood pooling at his feet. collapse once he crossed the finish line, so exhausted his Dahl raced to his black SUV, pistol in hand. teammates would have to carry him off the course. Simply “Did he shoot you?” the dispatcher asked. put, he wouldn’t quit. And that spelled trouble with a man “He shot me in the chest,” Tawfilis gasped. “He’s like Robert Dahl. coming after me in his truck!” Dahl, meanwhile, stood about 6′1″, with broad, sloping Tawfilis stumbled down the sloping hill of the winery shoulders and a build others described as “lumpy,” but he and into the trellised rows of the vineyard, his feet sinking cast such an intimidating presence that people remembered in the soft soil, which had just been disked by a tractor.

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He could hear Dahl behind him, gunning the engine. In terror, Tawfilis ran as Dahl pointed his gun at him, his other hand on the wheel, a plume of dust rising behind him. “He’s trying to kill me!” he cried out to the dispatcher. He ran south, toward another vineyard, as Dahl continued to fire at him, eventually hitting him again in the chest. As he collapsed on Hoffman Lane, abutting Highway 29, he could see police cruisers approaching, their sirens blaring. Dahl drove up to where Tawfilis had fallen and jammed his SUV into park. Standing over him, Dahl shot Tawfilis once more in the head as police closed in, and then ran back to his SUV and took off, heading for the hills that led to Sonoma. As Tawfilis lay dying, Dahl led police on a chase up a winding mountain pass known as Oakville Grade. A helicopter circled overhead. Suddenly, he lurched off onto a private road, crashing into a farm gate. He then put the pistol to his own head and pulled the trigger.

everyone at the table, or he’d round up his friends and tell them they were all going to the Oregon Coast. “And I’d be like, ‘When are we leaving?’ ” remembers Myles Davis, an electrician who became one of Dahl’s best friends in Napa. “And he’d say, ‘Right now.’ Robert was big. Big guy, big personality, funnier than shit. He was a lot of fun to hang out with.” Dahl said he’d sold a mold-removal company called Duraban International for $10 million back in Minnesota and had come to Napa to launch a wine business he’d started in the Twin Cities called Top Off Wines. He claimed the New York Yankees and the Minnesota Twins were both interested in the product: single-serve readyto-drink wine in shatterproof glasses. “It was clear he didn’t know what he was doing as far as making wine,” says Montgomery Paulsen, a winemaker whom Dahl eventually hired. “This ‘Top Off’ product had some real quality challenges. It was never going to work. But in the south part of Napa it’s not about the prestige, it’s about making a lot of money, and that’s what Robert was he Napa Valley is only five miles interested in.” wide, constricted by two low-lying Dahl wanted the prestige, too, of course—the French Pacific ranges that stretch along the Oak barrels and superstar vintners who can attract the coast, and runs for 30 miles along wild attention of the best wine critics—but he didn’t have that canyons and oaky knolls until it hits kind of money. At least not yet. If he wanted a foothold the marshland of the San in the wine business, he’d have to start down Pablo Bay. Because of valley, where the guys live who work in the the way the cool ocean unglamorous side of the business, brokering air moves over the vines, the sale of bulk wine, making labels for the dry summer months bottles or managing the 300-plus vineyards of nearly uninterrupted that sprawl across the valley floor. sunlight and a rich soil “He had all these ideas, like Top Off enriched by volcanic ash, Wines, that came across as kind of amateurit’s one of the best spots in the world for ish,” Paulsen says. “He was saying he was growing the grapes used for the most expengoing to supply every stadium in the U.S., sive wines: cabernet, chardonnay, pinot noir. and he was going to be doing 40 million Napa was once nothing more than cups a year and all this stuff. It wasn’t really farmland, the sort of place where growers clear what his business model was, but he and vintners got together at the end of a had big plans and a lot of energy and that dirt road on a Saturday night for a square attracted people.” dance, but today it’s a highly stratified Had Dahl come to Napa at any other time, society, largely invisible to the tourists who he wouldn’t have lasted long. But for a guy drive up Highway 29 on weekends to take with little to no money (he’d confided to the trolley from one tasting to another. As Paulsen that he arrived in the valley with locals will tell you, Napa essentially consists $5,000), the timing was perfect. Napa was in Erstwhile business partners Emad Tawfilis, top, of two worlds: up valley and down valley. the midst of an epic slump. The entire wine and Robert Dahl. Up valley is arguably where the most iconic world was in trouble due to the global receswines in Napa come from: Opus One, Stags’ sion and an oversupply of grapes, and condiLeap and the $2,500-a-bottle Screaming tions were even worse in Napa. Unlike the Eagle. Up valley is where Oprah and French, most winemakers in Napa had never new-wave Chinese industrialists, or bao fa hu (literally bothered creating a line of discount wines because they translated: explosively rich), go for the annual Auction were more interested in good reviews. And in 2010, that Napa Valley, sitting under white tents and spending as spelled doom because the high-end market had fallen off much as $500,000 for six magnums of the hottest new a cliff. Meanwhile, Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Sonoma cult cabernet. and even Washington’s Walla Walla Valley were producing When Robert Dahl arrived in Napa in 2010, he was wines just as good as anything coming out of Napa, often decidedly a down valley kind of guy. Born and raised at a fraction of the price. Growers were out on the highway in Minnesota, he liked to snowmobile and watch football selling cabernet for the first time anyone could remember. and command the room. At a restaurant he’d order for Grapes were literally dying on the vine.

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ahl started out at the lowest rung on the ladder, making shiners, or bottles of wine without labels. He then uncovered one of the secrets of the valley. When wineries are broke, overleveraged or can’t move product, they sell off excess wine, known as bulk wine. Because elite wineries don’t want consumers to know that the same wine they sell for $200 to $300 a bottle goes for $20 at Trader Joe’s, those who buy bulk wine are often required to sign a nondisclosure agreement, but are free to put Napa on the label and even hint at where it came from. Dahl bought a bottling line at a steep discount, rented commercial space on the cheap and started buying bulk wine from high-end producers. What once would have gone for $30 a gallon was now going for as low as $8. Within six months, bulk wine prices shot back up to $25 or $30 a gallon, and Dahl found himself positioned to profit. In 2011, he opened a business called California Shiners and would eventually broker a deal with the rapper E-40 to make his wine, bottle it and sell it, and keep 50 percent of the profits. In 2012 he made a similar arrangement with the comedian Adam Carolla to produce his Mangria line of wine. It was a far cry from the white tents and groomed From top: The barrel room at Dahl Vineyards in Yountville, California, grounds of the Meadowood country club up valley, but in August 2014; the scene at the winery, seven months later, in the hours after Dahl shot and killed Tawfilis and then himself. Dahl was in the wine business. “Robert was a really good businessman and he could sell,” says Greg Knittel, a Napa contractor who invested in a brewery with Dahl. Dahl also had another valuable trait: what he considered the big whale of the market: the Chinese the willingness to lie, which in the wine world has increas- industrialists who were coming to Napa to buy up wineries. While Dahl couldn’t attract the billionaire from Hong Kong ingly helped serve as a shortcut to the top. While wine fraud has been around since at least the 1700s (French king or Macau who prized authenticity, he could offer something the boutique wineries up valley wouldn’t: cheap wine Louis XIV insisted on labeling his barrels of wine with a branding iron to prevent fakes), it exploded between 2002 designed to look and taste expensive. “We’d get these guys who had a brother with a chain and 2011, when the global wine market quadrupled due to of liquor stores in Shanghai, and they’d the rise of high-end collectors in the U.S. say, ‘We want something that tastes like and China. Around the same time Dahl “PEOPLE Opus One, or a Coppola wine,’ ” says was getting California Shiners off the WITH A LITTLE Steve Burch, another winemaker Dahl ground, a collector in Los Angeles named BIT OF hired. “Robert would tell them, ‘I don’t Rudy Kurniawan was selling magnums of fake Ponsot by the caseload, and a vintner INFORMATION care what you put on the label. Once it leaves here, you can do whatever you in Napa named Jeff Hill was substituting AND A LOT with the wine.’ ” cheap merlot and malbec grapes in bottles OF MONEY ARE want Burch remembers one incident in of expensive cabernet sauvignon. Even EASY TARGETS, particular, when a Chinese customer sophisticated and experienced investors AND THAT’S asked for $100,000 in wine but wanted it like billionaire businessman Bill Koch to taste exactly like Coppola’s cabernet were conned into buying fake bottles of GOING TO Cask, which depending on the vintage 18th-century wine that had supposedly ATTRACT A can go for $260 a bottle. He wanted Dahl belonged to Thomas Jefferson (Koch paid CRIMINAL to make him a bottle he could sell back in $500,000 for four bottles). ELEMENT,” SAYS China for $18. While the client took “People with a little bit of information INVESTIGATOR breaks to smoke outside, Burch mixed and a lot of money are easy targets, and MAUREEN him a wine that tasted better. that’s going to attract a criminal element,” By the end of 2012, as much as 80 says Maureen Downey, one of the world’s DOWNEY. percent of Dahl’s business was coming most sought-after wine-fraud investigators. from China, and he was ready to make Flush with cash, Dahl started going after

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“NAPA AS A BUSINESS IS A SMALL GROUP OF PEOPLE WHO ALL KNOW EACH OTHER,” SAYS ONE WINEMAKER. “ONCE YOU GET A BAD REPUTATION, PEOPLE STOP DOING BUSINESS WITH YOU.”

my mother, ‘I hate to say it, but this guy is going to collapse.’ ” Dahl might have acted as if he had money to burn, but his business had begun to unravel. Burch says Dahl never paid E-40 for his share of Earl Stevens wine, and owed him $800,000 by 2014. The deal with Adam Carolla had also collapsed, and he owed the comedian 10,000 cases. And the business with the Chinese had dried up. Where it had once accounted for 80 percent of his business, it now accounted for three. n a hot day in the And then there was Emad Tawfilis. summer of 2013, James At first Tawfilis had seemed like a sucker Koller was on his tractor to Dahl, someone who was too nice to at the vineyard his put up much of a fight if things turned family had owned for a bad. He’d even bent to Dahl’s bizarre generation in Yountville, demands, like the time Dahl asked him when a beefy man rode to deliver $800,000 in a red Adidas bag. up on a bicycle. He was Dahl had gotten such a kick out of that wearing black leather he’d texted a picture of the cash in a bag gloves and introduced to several of his friends. himself as Robert Dahl. But by the spring of 2014, it had “I was just riding by,” become clear to Dahl that he’d underestihe told Koller. “And I mated Tawfilis. The $1.2 million he’d invested with Dahl was wondering if this land is available.” amounted to his life savings; he became obsessed with Koller had grown up in the valley and had seen Dahl’s type come and go: fast talker, charismatic, big plans. He told getting it back. “I think if maybe it hadn’t been so personal to Emad, if maybe he’d just let his lawyer handle it, things his family about Dahl, but they were leery. First he’d have could have worked out,” says one winemaker. “Robert told to prove himself by buying $300,000 of grapes over two me he wanted to make it right. He said, ‘The son of a bitch years. Dahl said he’d just gotten a big investor. He could just won’t let me settle.’ ” buy the grapes without a problem. As Tawfilis began looking into Dahl’s past, he realBut as the two started to work out the particulars, Koller ized that much of what he’d been told was a lie. Back saw red flags. Dahl had no regard for how things worked. in Minnesota, Dahl had been convicted twice of felony It seemed no matter where he turned up—at California Shiners or the new brewery he’d opened near the airport— theft and spent time in jail. He reportedly had declared he failed to get the proper permits. There was a long history bankruptcy, had been ordered to undergo a psychiatric evaluation, had been sued by a credit union, had had a car of this in Napa, of outsiders with lots of money coming in repossessed and had been evicted. His entire adult life he’d and ignoring the elaborate red tape designed to limit the had money problems, only to resurface with another getnumber of wineries in the valley. But unlike the up valley rich-quick scheme. Duraban, the mold-prevention cleaner vintner, Dahl had no connections to the Napa elite. Dahl claimed to have invented and sold for $10 million? “Napa is a small group of people who all know each It didn’t work, and the investors in that company had gone other,” Paulsen says. “Once you get a bad reputation, after Dahl just like Tawfilis had. people stop doing business with you.” By the beginning of 2015, Dahl was running out of And by the fall of 2014, Dahl had done plenty to damoptions. A California superior court had ordered him to age his reputation: He’d failed to pay growers for grapes, turn over to Tawfilis any assets that belonged to Dahl he’d sold wine that had gone bad and, worst of all, word Vineyards, and after a sting that proved Dahl was holding had spread he was mixing cheap wine from the Central Valley with bulk wine he’d purchased in Napa and passing tastings at the winery without a permit, the county shut him down, meaning Dahl could no longer sell wine and it off as the genuine article. had no way to make money. Dahl had also begun to spend extravagantly. He “Robert used to say this, all the time: ‘People are moved his family into a $1.4 million, 5,000-square-foot stupid.’ That was his first rule. And in Napa that’s not house in a gated community in Fairfield, a suburb outside true,” Burch says. Sacramento. Designed to look like a villa in Tuscany, it When Dahl met Tawfilis at the winery on March 16, he had an elaborate wine cellar, an in-home movie theater and had promised to reveal the location of five tanks used for a three-car garage outfitted with heavy oak doors. “He was just blowing money left and right,” Koller says. “I told fermenting wine he’d put up as collateral and now owed to Tawfilis. A document Koller found in the winery after the him, ‘Stop spending money. Deal with the city this way. killing suggests a different motive for the meeting, however. Don’t buy new equipment,’ but he wouldn’t listen. I told his move up valley. In November, he partnered with a longtime Napa family to buy the Christopher Creek Winery in Healdsburg. Set on 11 rolling acres in the Russian River Valley, the winery had been family owned for two generations and was known for mid-tier wines that went for about $54 a bottle. It wasn’t Opus One or Duckhorn, but if you wanted to get up valley, this was a start.

Apparently drafted by Dahl, the document effectively put the blame for the collapse of Dahl Vineyards on Tawfilis and absolved Dahl of any debts. Koller thinks Dahl demanded Tawfilis sign the document at gunpoint, and when Tawfilis refused, Dahl shot him. But there is evidence Dahl had planned to kill Tawfilis regardless of how the meeting went. In a wrongful death lawsuit filed against Dahl’s wife and business partners, attorneys representing Tawfilis’ family allege that Dahl had dismissed all winery employees on the day of the meeting so Tawfilis and Dahl would be alone. Koller says he also found duct tape, plastic bags and prepaid phones in the winery that police had failed to remove from the crime scene. Even Dahl’s friends think he planned the murder in advance. Myles Davis met Dahl’s wife at the police station after the murder/suicide and was asked to retrieve Dahl’s personal items from his SUV. In the back of the Pathfinder, Davis says, he found a hazmat suit covered in mud. “I think he had already dug a hole and probably planned to dump the body,” Davis says. A month before the killing, sources say, Dahl had driven to Idaho to buy a gun and a silencer. “I’m still in disbelief,” says Kousha Berokim, who as Dahl’s attorney was one of the last men to talk to him before he died. “This was not expected. I don’t think we’ll ever know exactly what happened.”

“I THINK IF IT HADN’T BEEN SO PERSONAL TO EMAD, THINGS COULD HAVE WORKED OUT,” SAYS ONE WINEMAKER. “ROBERT TOLD ME, ‘THE SON OF A BITCH JUST WON’T LET ME SETTLE.’ ”

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business so much, they’ll just throw caution to the wind.” What few in Napa want to admit is that the valley is changing. Built on prestige and exclusivity, restrictive land-use laws that prevent commercial development and its relative isolation, Napa has been able to keep the outside world largely at bay, and its high barrier for entry has prevented all but the very rich from ever really doing business here. But ironically the very thing that made Napa such a success—highly coveted wines that can go for thousands of dollars a bottle—has attracted the dark underbelly of the business, a criminal element that has arisen as wine has become more expensive. Last Christmas, someone used a crowbar to pry open the door of Thomas Keller’s French Laundry and stole 76 bottles of wine worth a total of $300,000. Earlier that year, a similar heist occurred at a restaurant a half mile down the road called Redd. As of press time the FBI hadn’t announced any arrests, but those close to the investigation say the heists were carried out by someone who understood that stealing wine isn’t too different from stealing a Picasso or a Monet: Once a bottle is stolen it enters the black market before winding up in someone’s private collection. Except wine, unlike art, is unlikely to resurface for years, if at all. On a warm morning in late spring, the gate to Dahl Vineyards was still padlocked, and cameras had been installed on the building where Tawfilis was shot. Rumors that Dahl had buried cash somewhere in the vineyard had been attracting high school kids who showed up in the middle of the night, shovels in hand. A cool Pacific breeze passed over the Mayacamas, gently rustling the leaves of the sturdy oaks that lined the vineyard’s driveway. It was easy to picture Emad Tawfilis walking down one of these rows, his loafers sinking softly into the soil, his hands gently inspecting the purple grapes coming in on the vines, imagining the wine he would one day make here. ■

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ot long after the killing, Tawfilis’ family laid him to rest in a private ceremony in Southern California. Emad’s younger brother, Adel, an oral surgeon in San Diego, delivered the eulogy, paying tribute to the hardest worker he’d ever known. He recalled the time his brother remodeled his home and backyard on his own, spending hours on his hands and knees, and the nights he’d lie in bed beside Adel’s sons, giving them advice or playing Xbox with them till one in the morning. At wineries up and down the valley this spring, vintners and growers were still trying to make sense of what happened and figure out what, if anything, the incident said about Napa. “Napa Valley is the sort of place where lots of unknown faces show up with grandiose dreams,” says Lewis Perdue, who covered the story closely in his Wine Industry Insight. “And Robert was the epitome of someone who will do anything to be part of it, and to a certain extent Emad was representative of that too. He was a smart guy, but you think about that bag of cash—it just shows that people want to be associated with the wine

Dahl in Napa Point Brewing, a gastropub he opened in 2013.

TRAVEL

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CITIES CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

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The Corning Museum of Glass opens a recordshattering new wing

Here’s one glass that’s a lot more than half full. The new, 100,000-square-foot Contemporary Art + Design Wing at the Corning Museum of Glass is the largest space of its kind ever created. Fashioned by Thomas Phifer and Partners, the Steuben County stunner features a very modern expanse with a white glass exterior, an all-white interior, gallery space, a 500-seat demonstration facility and a sophisticated series of curved walls and skylights to create ideal visual conditions to take in the rotation of exhibitions. The current crowd pleaser, “America’s Favorite Dish: Celebrating a Century of Pyrex,” is on view through March 17, 2016.

1 Museum Way, Corning, NY; cmog.org

EDITED BY NATASHA WOLFF

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GLASS CASTLE

CHICAGO

→ After a successful weeklong pop-up at Eataly, juice bar Owen + Alchemy has extended its stay at the downtown food emporium through the end of the year. owenandalchemy.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

A Whole New Look

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RH’s Cloud sofa by Timothy Oulton

FEELING BLUE?

This fall, the newly renovated Tiffany & Co. boutique reopens on Michigan Avenue with an expanded sales floor and the brand’s first dedicated watch salon in the country, inspired by luxury ocean liners and featuring buzzed-about new lines CT60 and East West. The renovation project, which started in early 2015, brings an airy and open vibe to the main jewelry salon with white stone floors, cream lacquer walls and serene seating areas decorated with emerald green and black leather upholstery paired with Tiffany Blue stone, bronze and leather lamps.

DESIGNER DRINKS

Let’s raise our glasses, Chicago, to Cocktail Courier, the country’s ﬁrst bartender-sourced, on-demand craft-cocktail delivery service. The company, founded by handsome brothers Curt, Scott and Ryan Goldman, works like this: You pick your cocktail of choice— options include margarita, Negroni, mint julep and more—and an insulated kit is delivered to your doorstep packed with all the ingredients you need to make a killer drink. We ordered the Moscow Mule set, and here’s what we found in our box:

Talk about drive and determination. Smart, stunning Shama Patel, 32, opened her first AIR Aerial Fitness studio in Lincoln Park in September 2013 and already has five AIR locations across the United States—three of them right here in Chicago. And that’s just the tip of the entrepreneurial iceberg for the former corporate attorney. This past February, Patel opened River North’s colorful Mud Facial Bar, which offers 30-minute facials— including the buzzedabout Breast Milk facial—for just $40. “Chicago has allowed me the opportunity to create new businesses,” says Patel. “It has welcomed my concepts with open arms, and that’s why I consider Chicago my ultimate playground.” airﬁtnow.com;

mudfacialbar.com

• 1 bottle of Stolichnaya Premium Vodka • 1 bottle of Pickett’s “Medium Spicy” Ginger Beer Syrup • 3 bottles of Fever Tree Club Soda • 1 bottle of freshsqueezed lime juice • 2 whole limes

From $54; cocktailcourier.com

730 North Michigan Avenue; tiffany.com CT60 Chronograph in 18-karat rose gold on a black alligator strap, $15,000, tiffany.com

ÊFOR MORE ON CHICAGO, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

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The Windy City is getting a makeover thanks to RH Chicago, The Gallery at the Historic Three Arts Club, Restoration Hardware’s latest design destination. The renovated six-story Gold Coast space will boast ﬂoors for RH Baby & Child, RH Contemporary Art, a Ben Soleimani Rugs Showroom and RH Design Atelier, where guests can work with the in-house design team, a personal architect or an interior designer. And if concentration on interiors gets to be too much, the space also plays host to a rooftop with unbeatable city views. “This is it,” CEO Gary Friedman says of the historic space. “It represents everything we believe in: great architecture, the arts and authenticity. It will be our gift to the city.” 1300 North Dearborn Parkway; rh.com

Start-up Star

Overnight Success Big Apple style has hit Chicago thanks to the recent opening of two very different hotels, the Loop’s historic Chicago Athletic Association— located steps from Millennium Park—and the edgier Freehand Chicago in vibrant River North, both designed by Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch of NYC design firm Roman and Williams. Here, the duo shares favorite design details from each eclectic spot.

FREEHAND CHICAGO

19 East Ohio Street; thefreehand.com/chicago

STOREFRONT

character who seemed right at home in the Broken Shaker.”—R.S.

BROKEN SHAKER COCKTAIL LOUNGE “There's a tropical vibe happening at the Broken Shaker. We used handsilk-screened patterned wallpaper from the 1940s to cover the walls of the bar, and we painted an octopus, our mascot, on it. We found this octopus on a Japanese matchbook cover; he’s a

LOBBY

“This is our all-around favorite space in Freehand Chicago. We created the room in warm Sapele, an African wood. This serene quality inspired the ombré murals on the walls above the wood paneling. The subtle gradient in shades of blue was taken from an encaustic wax painting Stephen created. We manipulated the painting and expanded it. It’s in a deep indigo and gradates to a warm white as it dissipates up to the ceiling. It’s another powerful and integral piece of art in the project.”—R.S.

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“We love tile murals and have been wanting to work on one for years. We created the one here with a local artist from a painting that she interpreted in tile. We really embrace the intersection of art and architecture at Freehand, creating art as part of the design—not simply hanging it in a room.”—S.A.

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“The storefront of Freehand is a great juxtaposition of something rustic and something urban. The humble wood adds a pretty earthy expression to the face of the building. The large handwritten sign above the original marquee continues the same approach.”—S.A.

CAFE INTEGRAL

CHICAGO ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION

12 South Michigan Avenue; chicagoathletichotel.com

RECEPTION DESK “We really like the long reception desk at CAA. It’s a good example of what we call historical modern, as its trim is traditional but is being used in a crisp, unique way. It complements the highly detailed spaces around it but doesn’t copy them.”—R.S.

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ODD TROPHIES “The improvised odd trophies in the 11 cases throughout the lobby living room are fun and insightful. We made them ourselves at the Roman and Williams studio using found and custom pieces. They are meant to disarm the seriousness and competitive spirit the CAA maintained for over 115 years.”—R.S.

REINTERPRETED WINGBACKS “Our reinterpretation of a classic wingback chair turned out nicely. It’s as if the standard went on a diet. We thinned out the upholstery and refined the woodwork to not be overly curvilinear or gushy. This gave the piece a modern quality while maintaining the functionality of the chair.”—S.A.

NEO-GOTHIC SCREENS “The existing neo-Gothic fretwork screens are deeply inspiring. Looking closely, we can see slight irregularity and improvisation—so much character and skill in the hand of whoever carved these.”—R.S.

DALLAS/FORT WORTH

→ Nearly two decades in the making, the Texas Horse Park has ﬁnally opened. Visitors can rent horses to ride the trails. texashorsepark.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

What’s Cooking

Wax Pomade, $22; Double-Header Shampoo + Conditioner, $32; Sleek Finish Texture Cream, $15, getjackblack.com

Curran Dandurand, her husband, Jeff, and their friend Emily Dalton transformed the made-for-men beauty market in 2000. “We know that most guys don’t want to fuss, primp or spend hours in front of the mirror,” says Dandurand Acknowledging the void in high-quality grooming products, the trio launched Jack Black, a

skin-care line with lip balms, shave creams, scrubs and more. Now, to celebrate its 15-year anniversary, the Carrollton, Texas–based company has launched a comprehensive hair-care line, complete with a two-in-one shampoo and conditioner and styling pomades. Created using ingredients like eucalyptus and macadamia-nut oil, the

products are lightweight, non-greasy and fragrance and colorant free. It’s no surprise, then, that in addition to an army of guys, the brand has gained female fans along the way. “It’s especially a thrill to be on a flight or in a restaurant and see someone pull out a Jack Black lip balm,” Dandurand says.

James Beard Award winner Tyson Cole’s beloved Japanese restaurant, Uchi, which has branches in Houston and Austin, is officially open for business in Dallas. Cole pushes the boundaries of traditional Japanese cuisine with inventive sushi and sashimi and popular plates like the hama chili (baby yellowtail, ponzu and Thai chili). Menu items exclusive to Dallas include the gyutoro, a 72-hour-braised Wagyu short rib served over spinach puree with Asian pear–and– Thai basil terrine, and the Kamo Nabe, duck confit served in a bowl with an egg yolk topping crispy rice and kale. The kitchen’s favorite? Chef de cuisine Nilton “Junior” Borges says it’s the avocado nigiri. “It’s so simple yet has so much umami with just a brush of tamari and a bit of yuzu kosho,” he says.

2817 Maple Avenue; uchirestaurants.com

getjackblack.com

CAN’T-MISS CULTURE

Rarely seen masterpieces and serial-killer musicals

Charles V and the Empress Isabella (c. 1628) by Peter Paul Rubens, from the House of Alba collection

To mark its halfcentury birthday, the Meadows Museum at SMU will host “Treasures from the House of Alba: 500 Years of Art and Collecting,” featuring one of Europe’s oldest private collections, on view for the first time stateside. Curated chronologically, the journey begins with works from the Alba family’s early days, followed by Willem de Pannemaker’s 16th-century tapestries and master works from Rubens, Picasso, Chagall and more. Opens September 4. 5900 Bishop Boulevard; meadowsmuseumdallas.org

Come October 5, the curtain rises for the world premiere of Donald Fowler’s Creep (the Very, Very Sad and Unfortunately True and Completely Fabricated Tale of Jack the Ripper) at the WaterTower Theatre. With a 16-person cast alongside an eightperson orchestra, the musical brings the dark tale of the serial killer to life. Fowler, a veteran actor in Dallas, found inspiration from a trip to Paris before composing the complex thriller. 15650 Addison Road; watertowertheatre.org

ÊFOR MORE ON DALLAS/FORT WORTH, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

For the first time in years, composer Jake Heggie, Tony Award–winning playwright Terrence McNally and Broadway director Jack O’Brien are teaming up on a new opera. On October 30, The Dallas Opera will present the world premiere of Great Scott, starring Grammy-winning mezzosoprano Joyce DiDonato. DiDonato plays Arden Scott, an opera star who attempts to save her struggling hometown company only to realize the local football team is playing in the Super Bowl the same day as her show's premiere. 2403 Flora Street; dallasopera.org

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A GENTLEMAN’S GUIDE TO GROOMING

HOUSTON

→ Texas’ second-largest urban bat colony lives below Montrose’s Waugh Drive Bridge. A quarter-million Mexican free-tailed bats emerge around sunset every night over Buffalo Bayou.

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Houston’s New Food Scene The city has more than 11,000 restaurants, and some of the hottest culinary teams in town are expanding their brands with completely new concepts that have foodies clamoring for more F.E.E.D. TX

Fried Chicken & Donuts

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Laura and Jerry Lasco already have quite an empire, from the Tasting Room to beloved fried chicken spot MAX’s Wine Dive and Flow Juice Bar ’s new location in Uptown Park. The couple’s latest is Añejo, also in Uptown Park, serving a contemporary take on Tex-Mex as well as “a robust beverage program, which features more than 100 premium tequilas and mezcals,” according to executive chef Michael Pellegrino. Mark your calendar: Añejo will compete with several of Houston’s finest eateries in the 12th annual Houston Cellar Classic, a culinary face-off hosted at The Tasting Room Uptown Park on November 7. 1180-1 Uptown Park Boulevard; anejotexmex.com

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in the Heights. And despite having the same owners, each spot is decidedly unique. “We don’t want to get pigeonholed as a chain,” says partner Lee Ellis. While the F.E.E.D. group is nothing like a chain, there are plans to grow like one. “We look to open 20 to 30 restaurants in the next five years,” says partner Lance Fegen. feedtx.com

LASCO ENTERPRISES

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The guys behind Liberty Kitchen, BRC Gastropub and Petite Sweets will almost double their stable before the end of the year. What’s new? Little Liberty in West University, a Liberty Kitchen at The Treehouse in Memorial City and another one in Garden Oaks—not to mention the new Lee’s

CLARK COOPER CONCEPTS

Charles Clark and Grant Cooper, the duo behind Ibiza, Brasserie 19, Coppa Osteria and SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, have another trick up their sleeves. Joining forces with Buffalo Bayou Partnership, Clark Cooper Concepts will open The Dunlavy, a private event venue at the newly renovated Buffalo Bayou Park. The building boasts a restaurant-grade kitchen, floor-to-ceiling windows and an 850-square-foot wraparound outdoor patio. Best of all, The

Kitchen at The Dunlavy will be open daily, offering counter service breakfast and lunch. “It will be a really cool, functional place where people can get creative,”

Cooper says. “The Dunlavy is a space that defines our city: bold, innovative and unique.” 3501 Allen Parkway; thedunlavy.com

HOUSTON

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In a quest to calm their own complexions, two Houston beauty whizzes are taking the sting out of skin care

PARRY BOTANICALS

DRUNK ELEPHANT

Elizabeth Koval Parry is known for her thriving interior-design business, but she recently expanded with the launch of natural beauty line Parry Botanicals. The creator decided to develop products for sensitive skin when her own allergies flared and she found relief in homemade products. “My two professions are similar in that they deal with aesthetics, but different in that my product line offers instant gratification,” she says.

After years of trying different products to treat problems from rosacea to oiliness, Houston native Tiffany Masterson started studying the ingredients. “I finally figured out that my skin had a reaction to essential oils and fragrance,” she says. The discovery inspired her non-toxic line, Drunk Elephant. “We isolate the ingredients and weed out the toxic ones, leaving only what’s safe and nonirritating,” Masterson says.

THE BACKGROUND

“After dealing with significant allergies, I wanted to use the highest quality pure ingredients,” says Parry. “I worked with chemists to develop 100 percent natural moisturizers that are made without parabens, dyes or fragrances and are gentle enough for sensitive skin.”

“I wanted something that didn’t exist,” says Masterson. “So I made non-toxic [a new category with safe ingredients that won’t cause irritation or inflammation], clinically effective pH-friendly cleansing bars, facial oil, serums and sunscreen.” PHILOSOPHY

“It’s all about simplicity and hydration. The products are for everyone (men, women, kids), and they are safe to use anywhere on your body— even under your eyes.”

“Listen to your skin—not me—to give it whatever it requires. We pack the products with everything you need and nothing you don’t for healthy skin that glows.”

KEY INGREDIENTS

Vitamin E, aloe, natural seed oils, butters and extracts (sunflower, shea, coconut, chamomile).

Virgin Marula oil (with omegas 6 and 9), vitamin C, thermal mud bamboo powder, raspberry seed oil. THE DETAILS

$18–$26; parrybotanicals.com

$32–$90; drunkelephant.com

TO THE POINT

Kate Hersch has always loved handwork on textiles. That’s what led the Austinite and mother of two to launch August Morgan, her whimsical line of linens, glassware and trays that feature hand-stitching and clever phrasing—like her cocktail napkins ($34 for a set of four) embroidered with a pair of bees and the word buzzed. “I started collecting and repurposing vintage needlepoint to make pillows, then Barney’s picked them up,” she says. But when it became difﬁcult to source new needlework, Hersch shifted gears into gift-ready barware. “It’s been such a treat,” she says of dreaming up original designs. augustmorgan.com

Whisked Away Whiskey is working for married couple Nick and Amanda Swift of Swift Distillery, in Dripping Springs. The burgeoning booze barons just released the second bottling of their made-inTexas Swift Single Malt. “With only three ingredients— water, yeast and barley—you cannot hide anything,” Amanda says. “The mastering of technique is what makes single malt so exceptional.” swiftdistillery.com

ÊFOR MORE ON HOUSTON, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

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SKIN GODDESSES

LAS VEGAS

→ Hexx, the new bean-to-bar craft candy shop at Paris Las Vegas, lets visitors go around the world by tasting chocolate from Peru, Venezuela, Ecuador, Tanzania and Madagascar. hexxchocolate.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Deal Him In Bill McBeath, who counts Steve Wynn and Bobby Baldwin as mentors, takes over The Cosmopolitan

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“I STAND IN THE BACK AND WATCH AND SEE IF PEOPLE ARE HAVING FUN. IT’S AMAZING WHAT YOU CAN UNDERSTAND ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS BY LOOKING AT YOUR CUSTOMERS’ FACES.”

3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South; cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

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CEO of The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, doesn’t take Friday meetings. Instead, he’ll walk around his casino resort and talk to employees and customers. At night, if there’s an event at The Cosmopolitan, McBeath will go, but he won’t sit down. McBeath may oversee a staff of thousands, but he can often be found taking his cues from the guests visiting the hotel. “I stand in the back and watch and see if people are having fun,” says McBeath, who was previously the president of casinos like The Mirage, Treasure Island and Bellagio. “It’s amazing what you can understand about your business by looking at your customers’ faces and listening to their comments.” Of course, The Cosmopolitan—which boasts the perpetually packed Marquee nightclub, the stunning Chandelier bar and destination restaurants including Scarpetta, Jaleo and Blue Ribbon—isn’t likely to leave visitors feeling underwhelmed. “The most significant impact I can have is when a person walks into the building and there’s that wow factor,” McBeath says. “And when they leave, they’re an evangelist for me.” McBeath knows the key to his business is relationships. That’s something he learned working for Sin City legends Steve Wynn and Bobby Baldwin at the Golden Nugget before joining the casino pioneers as they opened The Mirage. Their wisdom has not been lost on him.

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“Steve cares about productivity,” McBeath says. “He’s a very resultsoriented guy. And Bobby could do anything he wanted. He has an incredible capacity for knowledge and perspective.” McBeath says Baldwin taught him the value of remaining calm while making vital business decisions. And, like Baldwin, McBeath enjoys keeping busy even when he’s off the clock. “I’m a cowboy at heart,” says McBeath, who raises his own Angus cattle. “I love the outdoors. I’d rather be hunting, fishing or riding my horses, or just anything other than being indoors. I’m an adrenaline junkie.” McBeath, who says his goal at The Cosmopolitan is bringing more action to the casino floor, also enjoys playing high-stakes poker. He’s learned from Baldwin how to remain unemotional even when he’s got a big wager on the line. Which is to say, don’t bet against The Cosmopolitan.—ANDY WANG

BILL McBEATH, the new

LAS VEGAS Table Stakes

Reach for the Ascaya

You don’t have to be on the Strip to win big at the tables, especially when it’s time for dinner. Elizabeth Blau, a James Beard Award semiﬁnalist for Outstanding Restaurateur this year, recently opened Downtown Summerlin’s buzzing Andiron Steak & Sea, where Vegas society feasts on Wagyu beef and raw oysters. Blau, known for curating restaurants at Bellagio and Wynn Las Vegas, and her chef husband, Kim Canteenwalla, also operate nearby Honey Salt and Made L.V. (1720 Festival Plaza Drive; andironsteak.com). Chef Alex Stratta, who earned two Michelin stars at the Wynn, is serving Mediterranean-inspired small plates and paella at Tivoli Village’s Tapas By Alex Stratta (440 South Rampart Boulevard; tapasalexstratta.com). Meanwhile, over in the Arts District, nose-to-tail-loving chef Brian Howard, who led the kitchen at Comme Ça in The Cosmopolitan, will be making swine divine at his soon-to-open meateries, Harvest & Larder and Grazing Pig Charcuterie

(1130 South Casino Center Bouelvard; grazingpig foodgroup.com).

OVER THE TOP

Private planes are fine, but perhaps you should consider a private spaceship. World View, a new venture with an investment from the Vegas Tech Fund, is accepting reservations for voyages to “the edge of space.” Passengers will float 100,000 feet above Earth in a capsule towed by a high-altitude balloon, gradually sailing back down. “This view has only been seen by astronauts, until now,” says CEO Jane Poynter. And thanks to 360-degree vistas and in-flight WiFi, your Instagram followers will have FOMO in real time.

This is truly the high life. The Ascaya development in Henderson is offering 313 estate lots perched above Las Vegas on the McCullough Range. The enclave is a spectacular setting for a custom home; half-acre lots have already been sold in the $1 million range. For those with a sprawling compound in mind, Ascaya’s plots, which go up to 1.7 acres, can easily be combined. “It’s the top of the market,” sales director Darin Marques says. “It’s going to create a dimension that Vegas hasn’t seen before.” ascaya.com

worldviewexperience.com ÊFOR MORE ON LAS VEGAS, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

TORY TIME

Tory Burch is taking over town with two new boutiques. The first, at Fashion Show mall, is accessories-only, offering shoes, bags, jewelry, fragrances and more, while the Palazzo location has a selection including ready-to-wear. Both stores feature the brand’s signature orange lacquer doors, white-washed oak floors and raffia walls. For a night out, slip into a pair of metallic fringed sandals from a fall collection that boasts what Burch describes as “a mix of textures, deep colors and semi-precious stone embellishments.” toryburch.com

Fringed sandal, $650, toryburch.com

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Off-Strip restaurants sizzle with A-list talent

LOS ANGELES

→G uerrilla catering champ Churro Borough — purveyors of the cult-favorite Original Churro Ice Cream Sandwich—has finally found a permanent home in Los Feliz. churroborough.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

AND...SCENE!

L.A.’s new wave of nightlife is both vintage and in vogue AMERICAN IDLE

WORN IN THE U.S.A.

L.A.-based designer Chip Foster—a 30-year fashion veteran as one half of the denim duo Chip & Pepper—says there’s nothing better than being “made in the U.S.A.” His new American Made line, which debuted in July, is crafted entirely from domestically sourced items, down to the threads, zippers and rivets. “Making denim in the U.S. definitely shocked some people,” says Foster, who has shifted away from the usual international production model. “I wasn't sure if it could be done, but along the way we found some really incredible partners and are proud to be producing our denim here. I am very proud of the end result.” chipfoster.com

CLASS OF ’86

Is this a nightclub or a time machine? Break Room 86, in Koreatown’s The Line hotel, is a little bit of both. Brothers and owners Mark and Jonnie Houston have decked out the new spot with Reagan-era ephemera, a wall of cassette tapes and a DJ booth formed from boom boxes. “It was a time that embraced freedom with few boundaries,” Mark explains. “We want to evoke that nostalgia.” 630 South Ardmore Avenue; thelinehotel.com

Jeans, $169, chipfoster.com

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Helen Johannesen made her name as a sommelier at hip restaurants like Animal, Trois Mec, Petit Trois and Son of a Gun, and now she’s stepping out on her own. Helen’s, her eponymous new wine room, is nestled inside Jon & Vinny’s, the Italian restaurant from chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo that sits just across Fairfax Avenue from Animal. “Helen’s is less of a wine bar and more of a retail wine store within the restaurant,” Johannesen says of the space, which is home to over 1,000 bottles. “The pure intimacy of the wine store is really encapsulating. It is a chic, cozy, beautiful room with tons of kick-ass wine!” 412 North Fairfax Avenue; helenswines.com

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IN VINO VERITAS

For over three decades, a long-neglected and uniquely barrel-shaped building in North Hollywood has been a bit of a mystery. It launched as a taproom called Idle Hour Café in 1941, but has been defunct since the closing of its second incarnation, as a flamenco bar. Now the Idle Hour is back, thanks to the 1933 Group (Harlowe, Bigfoot Lodge), who has restored and renewed the space. “Everybody was wondering, what are they going to do to it,” says partner Dimitri Komarov. “They were so happy it didn’t get torn down.” And while the building’s famous exterior was kept intact, there are noteworthy surprises inside as well—namely a replica of the Bulldog Café, a 1920s-era tamale stand in the shape of a pipe-smoking bulldog. “It’s really cool,” Komarov says with a laugh. “And it smokes!” 4824 Vineland Avenue; idlehourbar.com

LOS ANGELES Serving Up Seconds Celebrity chefs and iconic locales reinvent themselves for a new era of wining and dining

Fresh from a stint at Fig at Santa Monica’s Fairmont Hotel, chef Ray Garcia has moved from the ocean and closer to the heart of the city—not to mention closer to the dishes of his heritage as a Mexican-American. B.S. Taqueria is a casual, colorful tweak on traditional fare. “The idea was to create a menu that tapped into the soul of a taqueria as well as my classical training,” says Garcia. 514 West 7th Street; bstaqueria.com

HEAVENLY HOSTS

Once an actual place of worship, foodies are ﬁnding downtown’s Vibiana Cathedral is answering a different set of prayers now that it houses Redbird, the new venture from chef Neal Fraser. “I wanted the food to match the space: old and new, traditional and more avant garde,” says Fraser. “The building is so unique to begin with, we wanted to make sure we paid reverence to that.” 114 East 2nd Street; redbird.la

INTO THE WOODS

Trained in ﬁne dining, British chef Brendan Collins nevertheless made his name invigorating L.A.’s casual gastropub scene at Culver City’s Waterloo & City. These days his roots are showing at the new Hollywood eatery Birch. “The idea was to be more detailed and focus on the ﬁner aspects of dining,” Collins says. The birch-themed décor’s also a throwback to his birthplace of Nottingham, the legendary woodland home of Robin Hood. “There is nothing more beautiful than a crop of birch trees,” he says. “Peaceful

and stunning without being pretentious, and that’s what I wanted for the restaurant and the cooking.” 1634 North Cahuenga Boulevard; birchlosangeles.com RAY OF LIGHT

You’ve got Don Henley to thank for the hottest new menu in Beverly Hills. Mark Strausman, the executive chef at Freds at Barneys, says the inspiration for his new Sunset Menu—now being served in the afternoons at the ﬁfth-ﬂoor patio eatery

within the store—came from a drive up Laurel Canyon listening to “Hotel California” by The Eagles. “The idea just came to me,” he says. “We needed a menu that celebrated gorgeous L.A. sunsets.” Classics like tuna tartare and original fare like the farmers’-market pizza are ﬂavored, he says, with an extra ingredient: “The views! Every time I walk out of that kitchen I get immensely happy seeing the Hollywood sign in the hills.” 9570 Wilshire Boulevard; barneys.com

Don’t Feel Bad About Your Neck Hold off on that neck lift! Beverly Hills dermatologist Dr. Stuart H. Kaplan is delivering a solution for above-the-shoulders issues with his new Kaplan MD’s Neck Sculpting Serum.. The product, which features seasame-seed extract and hyaluronic acid, is ideal for anyone seeking to restore firmness or alleviate “tech neck” from craning over too many devices. “Its effect on the skin is dramatic,” says Kaplan. “It firms and tightens the skin, while retaining moisture—all the things you need for a youthful lift for the skin on the neck.” Kaplan MD Neck Sculpting Serum, $265, kaplanmd.com

ÊFOR MORE ON LOS ANGELES, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

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TALKING TACOS

MIAMI

→R itz-Carlton regulars will sleep well in Miami— its greater metropolitan area, including Fort Lauderdale, boasts five properties, the most of any destination worldwide. ritzcarlton.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Culinary Conquistadors Not since Ponce de León sailed along its shores has Miami been under an Iberian invasion of this magnitude. But instead of searching for the fountain of youth, these Spaniards are importing cuisine from their native Barcelona. Here are two picks.

SLOTS & SLABS

NIU KITCHEN

Food editors are gushing over Niu Kitchen, downtown’s Mighty Mouse of Catalan cuisine. Dine beneath a bookadorned ceiling on Barcelona-born executive chef Deme Lomas’ pa amb tomàquet and foie gras dusted in caramelized hazelnut powder. Baby-back-rib confit is another cherished taste of his homeland. “We smother them in Romesco and bake before serving atop spinach, raisins and pine nuts,” he says. 134 NE Second Avenue; niukitchen.com

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TOM’S GREEN THUMB

Tom Colicchio has finally plunged into Florida! The chef and TV personality is at the helm of three dining options at eco property 1 Hotel & Homes South Beach, including Beachcraft, which serves grilled octopus in an ancho chili paste and baby vegetables tossed in mustard vinaigrette. The avid fisherman took to Miami’s waters like a pro, too, even putting local lionfish on the menu. 2395 Collins Avenue; 1hotels.com

Peru To-do Coya, the British-born, Peruvian cousin of Asian favorite Zuma, is crossing the pond to open its first U.S. location in Brickell. Guests may sample 20 versions of the pisco sour, infused with everything from berries to chillis, and soak them up with anticuchos, otherwise known as kebabs. 999 Brickell

Avenue; coyarestaurant.com

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5550 NW 40th Street, Coconut Creek; seminolecoconutcreekcasino.com

KLIMA

With its lush garden and chic bars—the upstairs turns into a late-night lounge— the conveniently located Klima will be a hot table for large parties during big events like Art Basel. Burrata and shaved fennel salad followed by a generous quartet of chipotle-smoked tuna toasts, which could sub for a main, make an ideal Miami meal. Definitely finish with the palate-cleansing passion fruit, coconut and mint slush. 210 23rd Street; klimamiami.com

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When celebs like Joan Collins and Seth Meyers need to refuel at Seminole Casino Coconut Creek, they carve into NYY Steak’s dry-aged USDA Prime cuts, like the 26-ounce longbone cowboy rib eye prepared by an on-site butcher. “We personalize each by carving the guest’s initials into the bone,” says executive chef Matthew Sadowski of the Instagram-ready dish. “Your friends will be hungry and jealous on social media.”

MIAMI NAILED IT

Spa snobs are swooning for the comprehensive menu of Ayurveda treatments at the Fontainebleau’s Lapis oasis. Featuring essential oil–and-herbal blends like reviving juniper and citrus, 5,000-year-old Indian techniques form the basis of everything from Abhyanga massages to Avar Na body wraps. “I like Ayurveda’s authenticity and its roots in ancient culture,” says spa director Josie Feria, who slightly modifies the regimen for Western attitudes. “But the wellbeing premise and body benefits remain intact.” 4441 Collins Avenue; fontainebleau.com

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On Watch Miamians have no excuse for tardiness these days, given the number of luxury watch boutiques in town. Among the newcomers is Parmigiani Fleurier, whose first store in North America features a library and blue-lacquered lounge for emerging collections and haute horology (like the Tonda Hémisphères timepiece shown here in rose gold). Overwhelmed? Thierry Collot, the company’s U.S. president, offers some pointers. “I can’t get enough of the Bugatti line, but the new Tonda 1950 Tourbillon will change the industry,” he says of the latter’s complex yet sleek design. 140 NE 39th Street; parmigiani.ch

Letter Man Pining for pre-texting days? Wynwood Letterpress stamps out modern technology with its stunning stationery and other pen-and-paper necessities. Shop artisanal wares (La Compagnie Du Kraft leather notebooks, Gold Teeth Brooklyn cards) and get into the DIY spirit with calligraphy and bookbinding workshops.

2621 NW Second Avenue; wynwoodletterpress.com

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NATURAL SELECTION

Vanity Projects, NYC’s go-to salon for nail art, couldn’t have found a better ﬁt for its second branch than the Magic City. Watch video art as nail technicians—artists in their own right—create distinctive works on your digits. “Our New York nail artists are on heavy rotation down here,” says founder Rita de Alencar Pinto, who recommends gold studs and gunmetal for fall. Pinto, who’s collaborated with fashion and beauty houses like Christian Dior on nail-art collections, is about to be very busy. 7338 NW Miami Court; vanityprojectsmia.com

NEW YORK

→ For fall, spin mecca SoulCycle has partnered with Pearl Izumi on a custom cycling-shoe design that will eliminate hot spots and be easier to walk in. Get in line October 1. soul-cycle.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

At right: PH-D at the Dream Downtown. Below: Lavo.

AT YOUR SERVICE

InList concierge app give users 24-7 personalized attention What about a table at the most coveted club in town? InList, an app that caters to high-powered clientele, can make that happen and so much more. Essentially a personal assistant in your pocket, it connects vetted and approved users to concierges who can help in real time via text, e-mail or phone. To get a feel for what’s on offer, director of concierge services Albert Hixson details his five favorite places for a perfect night out in NYC. inlist.com

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Cool club environment: Up&Down Celebrity-approved: 1 OAK Amazing music: Marquee Impressive and luxurious: Provocateur An intimate lounge vibe: Beautique Gorgeous rooftop: PH-D Great for groups: Lavo

Garden Party

The work of late Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi is at home this fall at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. The eponymous exhibition features 15 sculptures created between the 1940s and the 1980s, six of which will be located in the famed Japanese Hill-and-Pond Garden, the first of its kind in an American public green space. On view September 8 through December 13. 990 Washington Avenue; bbg.org

wins. “One thing that makes Barclays Center unique among NHL The New York Islanders move venues is our seats on to the Barclays Center the glass,” says venue CEO Brett Yormark of the 15,795-capacity rink. “They are positioned three feet higher than average front-row seats and will make fans feel like they’re on top of the action.” Another plus is that visitors can see the game no matter the perch. “The HD video scoreboard is one of the largest and most technologically advanced of any arena in Players will hit the ice in Brooklyn the world, allowing easy visibility,” as the borough’s first NHL franchise, Yormark says. The venue is also the New York Islanders, kicks off creating a West End Club behind its inaugural season at the Barclays one of the goals to provide fans a Center. The storied team will be premium experience and close access moving from Nassau Coliseum, its to the Calvin Klein Courtside Club. Long Island home of 43 years, and bringing along its four Stanley Cup 620 Atlantic Avenue; barclayscenter.com

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Puck, Yeah!

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The Back Room at One57 offers a premiere, contemporary restaurant to Midtown Manhattan where you will savor our culinary masterpieces in American cuisine style crafted by our culinary experts. The Back Room at One57 offers a sophisticated, intimate atmosphere with views of Carnegie Hall and close steps away from midtown destinations like Columbus Circle, Lincoln Center, and Central Park.

153 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 (3rd Floor) | (212) 897-2188 | THEBACKROOMONE57.COM

NEW YORK Menswear Moment Three brands establish a Big Apple presence

WELL SUITED

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Venerated Italian menswear designer Isaia is opening a ﬂagship location on the Upper East Side this September, and the clothing inside isn’t the only luxurious element. The Neapolitan brand’s second U.S. shop will feature elegant touches like a vintage Campari bar, a glass-encased custom tailor shop, an outdoor garden and a private balcony overlooking Madison Avenue. CEO Gianluca Isaia says the company goal is to “juxtapose the sartorial tradition of tailoring with a contemporary perspective. We create a lifestyle for the ‘new gentleman’—one who is passionate, intellectual and charming in an unconventional way.” 817 Madison Avenue; isaia.it

FROM A TO ZEGNA

New York City is about to get a bit more dashing, courtesy of the 3,200 square feet dedicated to custom luxury menswear at Ermenegildo Zegna’s new outpost in Brookﬁeld Place. Modeled after Zegna’s Peter Marino–designed Milan location, the New York store boasts metallic strands woven into a full glass façade, as well as a natural color palette of rosewood, mahogany and bronze. From inside, customers can look out onto West Street or up at a rolling video installation of the brand’s seasonal runway collections. Either way, they’ll be seeing a new phase in the evolution of luxury. 200 Vesey Street; zegna.com

J Brand founder Jeffrey Rüdes is focusing on the essentials with his new namesake men’s collection, which features an array of supple knits, updated takes on the classic blazer (“the cornerstone of the modern wardrobe”), denim and shirting in clean cuts, simple silhouettes and luxurious fabrics. Rüdes will debut these designs at a stand-alone SoHo boutique, complete with Calacatta marble floors, white French lacquered walls and Makassar Ebony wood moldings. “I wanted to create a modern space that enhanced the aesthetic of the clothes,” says Rüdes. “The store is the backdrop for the clothes themselves.” 57 Greene Street; jeffreyrudes.com

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BACK TO BASICS

GLAM ON DEMAND

On-call services are an easy way to have beauty delivered to your doorstep—but which is right for you? Here we compare and contrast five of today’s hottest beauty-booking offerings

BEGLAMMED

STYLEBOOKINGS

GLAMSQUAD

PRIV

THE RITUALIST

beglammed.com

stylebookings.com

glamsquad.com

gopriv.com

theritualist.com

Founded by:

Business and beautyindustry insider Maile Pacheco

Hairstylist George Kyriakos and makeup maven Vincent Longo

Gilt Groupe co-founder and e-commerce expert Alexandra Wilkis Wilson

Morris Sutton and Joseph Terzi, childhood friends with backgrounds in software development and finance

Fashion executives Keltse Bilbao and Marta Cros, who became frustrated with the hassle of booking appointments

On offer:

Hair and makeup services

Hair styling and cuts and makeup from top industry stylists at your door within 24 hours

Hair, makeup and nail care

Hair styling and cuts, makeup, manicures, massages, fitness, spray tanning and men’s grooming

Facials using their trademarked products, body wraps and massages

Celeb clients:

Bella Thorne, Paris Hilton and Mariah Carey

Natasha Lyonne and stylist-to-the-stars Christina Ehrlich

Whitney Port, Venus and Serena Williams, Brooke Shields and Ivanka Trump

Amber Heard and Emily Ratajkowski

NYC It girls Sofía Sanchez Barrenechea and Julia Restoin Roitfeld

Signature treatment:

The Gala, a classic affair with full lashes and a bold red lip

A 1940s-inspired glamorous look done by one of the associate pros is one of the most requested services

The New Romantic, a natural full-bodied blowout

Special offers like costume makeup on Halloween and promotions with guest stylists

The Custom-Blend Facial with deep cleansing and exfoliation, followed by a hot-stone massage and a mask and moisturizing cream to finish

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Rolling with the Punches A boxing champion designs a brand-new workout

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY TAYLOR JEWELL

Ngo Okafor looks like he’s carved out of stone. The boxer, personal trainer and model has bulging muscles and a 100-watt smile. But his road to fitness success wasn’t easy. Born in Nigeria, Okafor describes himself as being a sickly kid with nary a bicep in sight. “I was the skinniest kid in the class.” He was constantly picked on and beat up, and by 13 he’d had enough. Inspired by films like Rambo, Okafor started to train. He put on weight and muscle until he was finally able to defend himself. And then there was no turning back. A dedicated personal trainer, Okafor didn’t discover boxing until he turned 31. After being crowned a Golden Gloves champion twice, Okafor focused on expanding his business, and along the way he created an entirely new type of workout. RAKA! is inspired by boxing moves, but requires no previous

experience or equipment. Each class is set to African music and includes high-intensity intervals of cardio, strength training and core work. Every 45-minute session is broken up into three-minute rounds (inspired by the rounds of a boxing match), so the class flies by. Once the playlist starts pumping, Okafor assures clients that they’ll forget they’re training and just have fun. “You won’t even realize how hard you’ve worked until you see the sweat on the floor.” rakafitness.com

HAMPTONS

→H aute cuisine goes farm-to-backyard this season with the Hamptons Aristocrat, a new food concierge service and organic food truck from Lexi Stolz and Louisa Young. hamptonsaristocrat.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

SEASIDE STUDIOS AND SALONS

Year-round offerings from Tracy Anderson and Warren Tricomi

Bespoke by the Beach 3x1

3x1’s newest location brings the best of

FIGUE

its Manhattan factory to Southampton. The modern boutique is staffed by denim experts trained in the brand’s custom process and will offer 25 limited-edition styles. “It’s a great chance to service our customers out east and bring our concept to a new audience,” explains founder Scott Morrison. In addition to men’s and women’s denim offerings, the store stocks indigo-dyed T-shirts and beach totes, alongside Token Surfboards. 44A Main Street, Southampton; 3x1.us

Entering Figue’s new East Hampton boutique is like stepping into a Moroccan beach house. The bohemian lifestyle brand’s wares are artfully arranged throughout the space and exemplify the “gypsy-meets-jet-set” spirit that founder Stephanie von Watzdorf espouses. Think embroidered caftans, Indian pom-pom sandals and military jackets that will appeal to locals and travelers alike. As von Watzdorf says, “The fall collection is inspired by the nomadic tribes of the world.” 55 Main Street, East Hampton; figue.com

TRACY ANDERSON When asked to describe her new East Hampton outpost, fitness guru Tracy Anderson doesn’t mince words: “If I thought what I offer was already available, I wouldn’t be opening there.” The new studio combines all of the necessary elements, Anderson says, “to make you feel like you’re shining from the inside out,” including private and group classes, an array of healthy meals and juices and a boutique. After all, she says, “I know a thing or two about what to wear from the gym to brunch or the beach.” 30 Park

Place, East Hampton; tracyanderson.com

WARREN TRICOMI When Warren Tricomi’s New York client base started requesting greater accessibility for hairstyle and color treatments, the NYC salon saw an opportunity to set up shop out east. “They asked for a Hamptons location,” Joel Warren says, “and we delivered.” The chic new salon features hair and beauty offerings like the Sun Lights color treatment, which involves dye painted expertly around the face, and the cooling menthol mask pedicure. Local clients like Martha Stewart and Hilaria Baldwin are sure to be thrilled. 64 Park Place,

East Hampton; warrentricomi.com

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A duo of shops to offer handmade goods

[PROMOTION]

There are three key ingredients to success in the off-premise catering industry. Expert caterer Andrea Correale defines these as “amazing, restaurant quality food, impeccable service, and stylish presentations.”

“A winning trifecta,” says Correale. These are the standards that have helped Elegant Affairs set the bar across the New York City/Tri-State catering scene. With 18-24 events on any given week such as weddings, corporate functions and private events within a high-end market, Elegant Affairs serves up consistently passionate parties that surpass expectations.

Starting the business right out of college (with a staff of 45 and already 500 clients) and having worked in the catering industry since the age of 16, Correale continues to re-define success year-after-year. By drawing on inspiration from the world around her, as well as monitoring the success of current dishes and reading the latest news from the States and beyond, Correale updates her menu to constantly stay ahead of the curve. As the food industry trends towards local farms, organic products and natural juices and mixers, it’s clearly reflected in Elegant Affairs’ current food and beverage menus, such as Correale’s personal favorite – short ribs over wild mushroom farro risotto finished with black truffle. If you try your hand at the short ribs, or experience one of the fine cocktail parties with standout hors d’oeuvres, you’ll be pleased by the uniquely fabulous variety of tastes. Presentation is key with dishes served on custom trays made to conform to each hors d’oeuvres. With a passionate culinary team and expert event planners churning out lavish, extraordinary affairs, plus an unmatched celebrity clientele (including Kevin Costner and Jimmy Fallon!), Elegant Affairs is the resident go-to caterer. And there’s no slowing down - there might even be an exclusive NYC venue in the near future!

460 PARK AVE S. 4TH FLOOR NEW YORK, NY 10016 TEL: 973-882-8001 INFO@ELEGANT-AFFAIRS.COM

TRI-STATE

→L ocated just two hours north of NYC, the new 10-room Arnold House on Shandalee Mountain in the Catskills is an updated version of the classic country-house retreat. thearnoldhouse.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Hospitality with History Glenmere Mansion goes from immaculate country estate to luxury resort

In 1911, real-estate heir Robert Goelet built Glenmere as his countryside getaway, a place to which he could retire and take in the beautiful landscape. Just over a century later, the new Italianate Glenmere mansion sits atop sprawling, manicured grounds—which feature tennis courts, a pool and lawns for croquet—and while it mostly stays true to the original, there’s no ignoring the addition of modern amenities like marble and mosaic bathrooms, flat-screen TVs and plush mattresses. “All the bathrooms are Carrera marble,” says owner Alan Stenberg. “We bought part of an Italian mine to ensure the marble would match.” After luxuriating in the well-appointed suites, guests can book a visit to the spa, where everything from reflexology to the Turkish Soap Ritual (performed, of course, in a marble hammam) is available. And following a day of pampering, there's the option of not one, but two on-site restaurants: the upscale Supper Room and the more casual Frogs End Tavern. If it’s good enough for Daniel Boulud, who was married at Glenmere, sign us up.

634 Pine Hill Road, Chester, New York; glenmeremansion.com

Manolo Blahnik CEO George Malkemus originally bought a Litchfield, Connecticut, farm with his partner, Blahnik vice-president Anthony Yurgaitis, in 1999 to preserve the local farmland in a town they loved. The duo had no idea at the time how far the investment would take them from their very fashionable roots. After restoring Arethusa Farm to its full glory, Malkemus and Yurgaitis began ethically raising cattle and manufacturing their milk into ice cream, cheeses, yogurt and butter. Local residents soon began asking the executives how to cook with their products, which inspired the men to open a restaurant,

Arethusa al tavolo , in

June of 2013. “We were lucky in finding our chef, Dan Magill, who has a loyal following,” says Malkemus. The Italian taverna–style eatery was inspired by the summers the pair spent together in Puglia, but for them, nothing compares to Connecticut. “Having now lived here for many years, we never tire of its serene calm and beauty,” says Malkemus. 828 Bantam Road, Bantam, CT; arethusaaltavolo.com

STATE OF GRACE

When the Grace Farms Foundation needed an architect for its 75-acre New Canaan community center, they searched wide. “Our committee looked at 25 firms,” says foundation president Sharon Prince, before settling on Pritzker Prize–winner SANAA, whose designs include NYC’s New Museum. The River Building opens October 9 with artworks by Thomas Demand and Olafur Eliasson on display. 365 Lukes Wood Road, New Canaan, CT; gracefarms.org ÊFOR MORE ON TRI-STATE, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

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IF THE SHOE FITS

# KUROH ARDROCK H O L LY WO O D, F L 路 S EMIN OLEH A RD ROCKH OLLY WOOD.COM 路 95 4 - 585-5333

[PROMOTION]

Million Dollar Smile MEET NYC’S TOOTH FAIRY TO THE STARS

r. Lee Gause grew up in a family of dentists, so he

Taking it a step further, Gause and his team are working on

had many years to meditate on the kind of den-

being able to offer dental care on private planes for patients

tist he wanted to be. He realized he didn’t want

short on time. “For people whose most valuable thing is their

to create “cookie-cutter smiles,” because people

time, we can offer this service on long flights and bring the

don’t fit into molds, and neither do their smiles. The North

dental care to them.”

Carolinian, who has handled the pearly whites of big-name athletes like Floyd Mayweather Jr., Amar’e Stoudemire and

One celebrity client taking advantage of Gause’s mobile

Andre Berto, is rebranding traditional mom-and-pop den-

services is undefeated boxing champion Mayweather Jr., who

tistry as an ultra-luxury experience at Smile Design Manhat-

received dental treatments in Las Vegas before his highly

tan—an art gallery-turned-dental office where he offers his

publicized fight against Manny Pacquiao, where he donned

all-star service. If this wasn’t urban enough, Gause’s evolved

a custom-made mouthguard designed by Gause-owned

approach to the practice of dentistry keeps him in tune with

Iceberg Guards. The fashionable mouthpieces—perfect for

the New Yorker’s expectation that their medical caregivers

pro-athletes and young kids alike—are important for prevent-

provide the most mindful and cutting-edge treatments avail-

ing sports-related injuries like concussions. “There’s a ton of

able, so Gause offers top-of-the-line holistic treatments such

science in it,” says Gause. “We took technology from sleep

as metal-free dental implants. “It is a luxury item in that less

apnea and tested it on world-class athletes and made these

than about two percent of dentists can offer it and we offer it

pieces really beautiful.” A standard mouthguard costs around

more than anybody else in New York,” says Gause. “It’s white,

$300 and can be customized with add-ons like gold foil,

it’s beautiful and it’s also quite healthy.”

works of famous artists, or even family photographs. Gause is busy—working 9 to 9 shifts—changing the face of

“I’m friends with my patients. I go to their events, I’ve been to their homes and they’ve been to mine.”

dentistry, and the self-described “workaholic” says patients are always top priority, whether in the examination chair or grabbing after-work drinks at a nearby hotspot. “I’m friends with my patients,” Gause says. “I go to their events, I’ve been to their homes and they’ve been to mine. Ours is a family practice mixed with uber-luxury. I’m willing to bring my full staff across the country to treat a patient.”

Another elite service Gause offers is mobile dentistry—a true luxury in our time of de-personalized healthcare. “Imagine a dentist bringing all of his/her equipment to the home of a 19-year-old, and the oral surgeon takes out their wisdom teeth and they wake up in their own bed with a nurse at their bedside,” says Gause. “They never have to stagger through the streets to get an Uber and go home.”

SMILE DESIGN MANHATTAN SPECIALIZING IN GENERAL, COSMETIC AND IMPLANT DENTAL CARE

24 West 57th Street between 5th & 6th Avenues

212.421.3418

smiledesignmanhattan.com

ORANGE COUNTY

→ A pioneering purveyor of contemporary, globally influenced Japanese cuisine, Sushi Roku has arrived in the O.C. with a brand-new outpost at Fashion Island. innovativedining.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Going for Olympia Gold Celebrated accessories designer Charlotte Olympia has added another jewel to her collection with a new boutique at South Coast Plaza. The shop features playfully sophisticated tweaks on old-Hollywood glamour (check out the leopard-print mid-century-style seating). “One of my favorite elements of the new store is the dedicated room showcasing my collection of leather handbags and small leather goods,” says the London-based footwear maven, who's often found inspiration in the Southern California lifestyle. “There is a relaxed attitude in California,” she says, “so you can dress up even when you’re dressed down!”

Sandals, from left, $895; $1,095; $895, charlotteolympia.com

“We believe in supporting local artists, crafters and designers in our community and all over the world,” says 503found’s founder and coowner, Kim Rodosky, of her eclectic interior-design boutique, now open in Newport Beach’s Cannery Village. Filled with a carefully curated, highly stylish selection of home furnishings and accessories, the shop is a onestop design haven for customers and interior designers alike. “The fun part about finding the right kind of items is traveling the world—and the people and designers we meet along the way,” says Rodosky. 503 31st Street, Newport Beach; 503found.com

JERKY BOYS You know how it goes: Every time you and your buddy try a new brand of beef jerky it invariably disappoints. So, you take several pounds of filet mignon and a dehydrator and whip up something on your own that’s so delectable it lands on the shelves of gourmet meccas like Eataly. OK, it’s not your typical success story, but that’s how Jordan Barrocas and Daniel Fogelson launched Three Jerks Jerky and took the truck-stop staple to dizzying new heights.

threejerksjerky.com

What surprised you when finding your way in the jerky-making process? Barrocas: “Learning how to make jerky was a lot of fun. Most of it happened at my apartment after work at night, hanging out, cooking, making jerky, having a blast. The biggest challenge was taking what we made for ourselves at home and then making a commercial product.” Fogelson: “The jerky you taste is pretty much in line with what we were making at home. We weren’t going to settle for anything less than that.”

ÊFOR MORE ON ORANGE COUNTY, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

Did you have access to all the things you needed to achieve your goals right here in the O.C.? Barrocas: “Yes. I was in Orange County, and Daniel was in L.A., so he would come over and stay at my apartment and we’d go on these marathon jerky-making sessions. The distance was the hard part— the ingredients were easy. We got everything at Costco.” Fogelson: “Yeah, they’ve got wonderful meat, and they’ve got everything you need to start making jerky.”

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

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901 South Coast Drive, Costa Mesa; us.charlotteolympia.com

GLOBAL MARKET

SAN FRANCISCO

→ Built in 1917, the A.C.T.’s Strand Theater has been undergoing renovations since 2013, but now the 98-year-old theater is back in business with an impressive new look.

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Lightkeeper pendant in gold with white diamond pavé and sapphires, $8,700

HIGH SCORE

Hublot blows it out in Union Square

Bank(s) On it

HATHAWAY: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY

Big Bang Vino King Gold watch, $47,500; Big Bang Vino ceramic watch, $29,100, hublot.com

A GOOD HAIR DAY It’s debatable whether Mark Twain ever truly said, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco,” but one thing is for sure: Bay Area weather is entirely unpredictable. That’s why discreet Russian Hill salon Spoke & Weal, a favorite of well-heeled North Beach residents, is offering a new keratin-based treatment, infused with amino acids and damage-reversing ceramides, to tame the frizzed tresses of those who suffer from the city’s finicky climate. “Our guests find us because they love us, because they need us,” says owner and master stylist Jon Reyman. “They aren’t looking for bells and whistles, they are looking for clear and excellent service.” 850 Greenwich Street; spokeandweal.com

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209

174 Geary Street; hublot.com

James Banks Design has gone from Hollywood to San Francisco. The jewelry company was founded by Heidi Nahser Fink and Adam Shulman on the set of Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland, which starred Shulman’s now wife Anne Hathaway (above, in a custom bracelet). Nahser Fink was designing jewelry and props when she was approached by Shulman about creating a pendant for Hathaway. “Adam has great taste, so we thought, let’s try creating together,” explains Nahser Fink. It turned out to be a perfect fit. “We worked on a few pieces,” says Shulman, “and we had this natural synergy.” Their popular Lightkeeper and Monacle pendants—now made in their new SF studio—come in a variety of precious metals and stones and are easily customized. jamesbanksdesign.com

DUJOU R .COM

Luxury Swiss watch brand Hublot has opened its 12th freestanding U.S. boutique in Union Square, and simultaneously debuted its newest timepiece, the Big Bang Vino. Officially known as the Big Bang UNICO Chronograph Retrograde Kobe Vino Bryant, it’s the brand's second collaboration with basketball great Kobe Bryant. “Hublot has always done things differently and on a grand scale,” explains Bryant. “It’s beautiful to be a part of such an incredible launch.” Hublot seems to be making itself at home in the Bay Area. Its technically advanced timepiece was unveiled during an intimate reception last spring in the Napa Valley, and CEO Ricardo Guadalupe says, “San Francisco’s diverse culture attracts an eclectic mix of consumers, making this Northern California enclave the perfect location for Hublot.”

SAN FRANCISCO The Fantastic Four From hotel boîtes to multi-course tasting menus, there’s something new and appealing for even the pickiest diners this season

BOTTLE ROCK

BDK RESTAURANT & BAR

Chef Chris Cosentino has hit the bull’s-eye with SoMA’s Cockscomb, where he offers a wood-oven-roasted pig’s head and quail tetrazzini. The bi-level eatery features an open kitchen and an eclectic mix of reclaimed wood, taxidermied animals and pendant lights made from old ﬁsherman’s nets. “The goal was to utilize the rustic space for what it was,” says Cosentino. 564 Fourth Street; cockscombsf.com

1473 Yountville Cross Road; ledefamilywines.com

HUXLEY

This Tenderloin treasure might be small in size, but it makes up for that in style and flavor. A mere 25 seats dot the space, where chef Sara Hauman’s casual menu features house-made country pork pâté and cornmeal jam tarts. Entrées like Devil’s Gulch ranch lamb and Mt. Lassen trout pair well with an inventive beer-and-wine program as well as the backdrop of art-deco fixtures and modern furniture. 846 Geary Street; huxleysf.com

MOURAD

Michelin-starred toque Mourad Lahlou shows off ﬂavors from his native Morocco in new ways at this sleek eatery, where fans order seasonal fare like duck with pecan granola, black garlic and huckleberry or La’acha dishes such as the lamb shoulder with couscous, kale, potato and cabbage. We suggest trying the 10-course tasting menu, which might include caviar on smoked brioche or uni with tomato jam and purslane. 140 New Montgomery Street; mouradsf.com

FEL chardonnays and pinot noirs, $28–$65

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

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Hotel Monaco’s new American tavern, BDK, is an homage to Kimpton hotel founder Bill Drennon Kimpton, whose hospitality inspired the “modern public house” feel. The intimate dining room and bar spaces, designed by Ken Fulk Inc., feature raw steel, leather, polished brass and oak, and the menu boasts Thai coconut-red-curry popcorn and Chianti-braised pot roast. 501 Geary Street; bdkrestaurant.com

COCKSCOMB

Lede Family Wines hits a high note with its new FEL label, which features 2012 and 2013 vintages, the results of consecutive bumper crops. “It’s the first time in 14 years that I’ve been able to directly apply last year’s lessons to the next vintage,” says winemaker Ryan Hodgins. Another important history lesson? The exhibition of original Grateful Dead poster art in the tasting room at Yountville’s Cliff Lede Vineyards.

WASHINGTON, D.C.

→N early two decades in the making, the Texas Horse Park has finally opened. Visitors can rent horses to ride the trails. texashorsepark.com

CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Loudon Clear Just 25 miles from D.C., Loudon County, Virginia, boasts more than 40 award-winning vineyards offering wines for most every palate. Here are some of our favorites.

Clockwise from left: David Greenhill, owner of Greenhill Winery; Breaux Vineyards’ new facility; Chrysalis Vineyards.

CHRYSALIS VINEYARDS

GREENHILL WINERY

There’s more to enjoy here than just wine. This fall the vineyard will be selling beef, care of its 25 cows from Burgundy, France. 23595 Winery Lane, Middleburg; greenhillvineyards.com

BREAUX VINEYARDS

Talk about a new vintage. This 404-acre estate recently built a new tasting room and a classroom for its wine school. 36888 Breaux Vineyards Lane, Purcellville; breauxvineyards.com

ALL IMAGES COURTESY

Swiss Masterworks “Gauguin to Picasso: Masterworks from Switzerland,” at the Phillips Collection, is the first U.S. exhibit to combine two major Swiss modern-art collections from the early 20th century. Paintings will be on display from the collections of Rudolf Staechelin and Karl Im Obersteg, both of whom championed the work of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and School of Paris artists. “I am thrilled to bring such spectacular works to Washington,” says Phillips curator and director Dorothy Kosinski. Opens October 10. 1600 21st Street NW; phillipscollection.org

Street, Middleburg; salamanderresort.com Ê FOR MORE ON WASHINGTON, D.C., VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES

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It’s time to pick up some extra wineglasses! Middleburg’s Chrysalis Vineyards, a local staple since 1997, is in the process of nearly doubling the size of its facility and tasting room and is revamping its VIP club to better showcase its vino and other products from the farm. 23876 Champe Ford Road, Middleburg; chrysaliswine.com

BET co-founder Sheila C. Johnson says being an entertainment executive was good training for her latest role, as the proprietor of the Salamander Resort & Spa. “Entertainment is like the hospitality business,” says Johnson. “It’s about taking care of people.” And that she does. The LEED-certified compound features 168 guest rooms, tennis courts, a library and extensive equestrian activities. The most meaningful touches, however, are ones Johnson created herself. “All of the photography at the resort, I took throughout my travels,” she says proudly. “Several of the antique pieces and artworks are from my personal collection.” For a first-time hotelier, she certainly seems to know what she’s doing. 500 North Pendleton

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SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY

PARTIES CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

Morning Glory WHO: Charlie Rose, Gayle King and Norah O’Donnell WHAT: Cocktails and hors d’oeuvres in honor of the CBS This Morning co-anchors WHERE: Strip House Midtown in NYC

DANA BREWINGTON, CHRIS LICHT, SAMANTHA KULOK AND RYAN KADRO

WHITNEY FAIRCHILD AND JASON BINN

GAYLE KING, CHARLIE ROSE AND NORAH O’DONNELL

ROCCO BASILE, ADAM TAETLE, BINN, RAY KELLY, MISSY BASILE AND ANDREA TAETLE

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GAIL SHEEHY, PATTI BOSWORTH AND JOSH MEYERS

PINTEREST’S ERIC HADLEY, GINA HADLEY AND TAMAR HADLEY

EQUINOX CEO HARVEY SPEVAK, JOANNE ZAIAC AND BOB COVEN

ANDREA CHRISTENSEN

TK TK NAME GOES HERE TK TK

JULIA MOSHY, TIFFANY TRUMP, REYA BENITEZ, GAIA MATISSE AND ANDREW WARREN

Summer Soiree WHO: Ray Kelly, Harvey Spevak and Richie Notar WHAT: DuJour’s summer kickoff party WHERE: Harlow East in Sag Harbor

RICHIE AND JANE NOTAR VALERIE AND GRAZIANO DE BONI

HARLOW EAST: EUGENE GOLOGURSKY/GETTY IMAGES; CBS: SHAWN MICHAEL PHOTOGRAPHY

DUJOU R .COM

JAMES LIPTON, REBECCA AND JON BOND

IERGE

YOU

RG LO

D N A

T EN

C CON

InList is the top mobile app for booking nightlife, exclusive parties, concerts & once-in-a-lifetime experiences. We are in over 45 jet-set cities.

inlistapp

DOWNLOAD THE NEW APP

PARTIES Get Gronkd WHO: Bruce Weber and Rob Gronkowski WHAT: Cocktails to celebrate Weber and Gronk’s DuJour fashion shoot WHERE: Lavo in Midtown NYC THE PROPERTY BROTHERS’ JONATHAN AND DREW SCOTT

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL NEW YORK GM MEHDI EFTEKARI

MAILONLINE CEO JON STEINBERG AND COO RICHARD CACCAPPOLO

SARAH AND DAVID FISZEL

JOHN ENOS

GRONKOWSKI AND CASA DE CAMPO’S RON YACOUB

GORDON GRONKOWSKI, JOHN TICCO, STUART WEITZMAN'S SUSAN DUFFY AND JORDAN DUFFY

CHARLEY MICHELLE, STARLITE RANDELL AND DANA POWER

WHEELS UP CEO KENNY DICHTER AND GRONKOWSKI

TRACY WEINER AND FAITH KATES

Life’s a Beach WHO: Massimo Coronna and Matt Lauer WHAT: Brunello Cucinelli's beach dinner WHERE: Georgica Beach, East Hampton

LISA AND JAMES COHEN, NATASHA CARONNA AND OLIVIA CHANTECAILLE

BRUNELLO: ANGELA PHAM/BFA.COM; GRONK: SHAWN MICHAEL PHOTOGRAPHY, CRAIG BARRITT/GETTY IMAGES, ASTRID STAWIARZ/GETTY IMAGES

MASSIMO CARONNA AND MATT LAUER

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ROB GRONKOWSKI, BRUCE WEBER AND JASON BINN

BINN AROUND TOWN CITIES→ CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.

LIVING ON THE EDGE

Architecture that’s taken to new heights BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 2

FALL HOUSE

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From a DuJour soiree at Strip House Midtown to a fundraiser at Cipriani Wall Street, our CEO is on the scene—as always, with his trusty iPhone.

CASA BRUTALE

Built into the side of a cliff with a pool for a roof, this home is unique—if not a little terrifying.

1. Gayle King, Charlie Rose, Nicole Vecchiarelli and Norah O’Donnell 2. Dom

Pérignon’s Trent Fraser, CEO of Moët Hennessy Jim Clerkin, Jason Binn and Hennessy’s SVP Rodney Williams 3. David Yurman’s Billy Paretti 4. Violet Grey’s Cassandra Grey and Jason Binn 5. Founder of DwellStudio Christiane Lemieux, Gilt’s Kevin Ryan 6. Wynn’s Hedy Woodrow 7. Ed Blumenfeld, Silvano Marchetto, Jason Binn, Martha Stewart, Geoffrey Zakarian and Scott Feldman 8. Susan and Ed Blumenfeld 9. David Yurman and Jason Binn 10. Skip Bronson, Jason Binn, Allen Grubman and Tom Freston 11. Tommy Hilfiger and Alan Chartash 12. Ed Blumenfeld, Larry Gottesman and Saul Katz

SKYLODGE

Thrill seekers must climb 1,000 feet to stay in Natura Vive’s Adventure Suite in Peru’s Sacred Valley. 12

ÊFOR MORE ON THE SCENE FOLLOW @JASONBINN

Even when you think he is attaching letters, he is often not. He looks like he’s flowing with spontaneity, but he’s not. He does one thing at a time. He thinks about how he wants to come off.

There are strong, sharp angles, like that capital A, in a handwriting that is not particularly angular. This is a classic sign of stubbornness.

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It would’ve been very easy to attach these two letters, but he’s a separatist, so to speak. He is not a joiner.

Some of his letters look like numbers. The g resembles the number nine, for example. He has an interest in numbers, which finds expression in the pleasure of accumulating wealth.

The X in the signature has historically been an indication of illiteracy. It was a replacement for a signature, so he is creating a paradox, or breaking the rules.

Famous Last Words

Despite his rebellious handwriting, Boy George’s favorite maxim shows off a softer side WRITTEN BY FRANCES DODDS

oy George’s eyeliner is still enviable. Sure, the Culture Club rocker—who rose to fame in the 1980s thanks to gender-bending style and irresistible songwriting— is well into his ﬁfties, but with the band back together and on the road in advance of a new album, he’s nowhere near giving up his ﬂair for the dramatic—on or off stage. “The classic sign of rebellion is capital letters in the middle of words,” Toronto-based graphologist Annette Poizner observes, reviewing George’s handwritten note, above. “This is the writing of somebody who does things unilaterally and breaks rules comfortably.” That’s no surprise. Over the years, George’s taste for controversy has been well documented: Having feuded with everyone from George Michael to One Direction, he’s

become tabloid royalty on both sides of the pond. Still, as his note suggests, he’s a more temperate character these days, and his handwriting offers a clue as to why. Poizner points out that in George’s penmanship, “there are large spaces between words, which indicate emotional isolation.” George readily admits there’s truth in this. “I don’t really have relationships anymore. I’m not obsessive like I used to be.” He says this romantic adjustment has impacted his creative methods as well. “Since I don’t have much to write about in that department, my process has broadened. I read a lot, and I use a lot of the things I read.” This new method of songwriting can be heard on Culture Club’s forthcoming sixth album, Tribes, and at the live shows the band has been playing around the world. And it seems to be working well: After more than 30 years in the spotlight, Boy George sounds more conﬁdent than ever. “The trick in life is to grow into yourself,” George says. “If you’re lucky, you ﬁgure out who you are.” ■

FLÂNEUR FOREVER

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