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Jewelry photos may have been enhanced and/or enlarged to show detail. All carat weights are approximate. Diamond total weight may vary up to .05 carat.
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W I N T E R 2 015
CONTENTS
MATERIAL WORLD
STYLE 40
BEIGE WATCH
68
MY FIRST PIECE OF ART
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TALK TO THE HAND
70
THE CASE FOR STAYING PUT
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STYLE NEWS
The most compelling menswear of the season has us gearing up to get into neutrals An antique-timepiece devotee has a charmed—albeit puzzling—affair with a hot new smartwatch
Some travelers take comfort in returning to the same place, at the same time, year after year
BODY
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74 WELL, GOOD AND FILTHY RICH
STRIKING COIL
LIFE 58
MATERIAL WORLD
Interior designer Samuel Amoia is sculpting his domain with a steady hand 64
MEAT CUTE
66
SOUTHERN EXPOSURE
Step aside, gas-station beef chews– jerky is getting an artisanal upgrade The cuisines of South America are experiencing a renaissance, thanks to a group of ace chefs
The empowered, enlightened and entirely booming business of spiritual entrepreneurship that’s taking over L.A. 78
HEAVEN SCENT
80
WANT NOT
A new and nose-worthy group of elegant fragrances yields the ultimate in olfactory delight
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DEFINING MOMENTS
Jessica Alba says yes. So do the Kardashians. But do waist trainers really work?
PLAY 84
FLY WHEELS
86
MAKING TRACKS
These beautifully designed bikes will have you eager to get back in the saddle Thrill-seeking sports-car enthusiasts are giving members-only racing clubs a spin
WORK 88
THE LONE STAR SYSTEM
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DEBBIE TAKES THE WHEEL
Away from the bright lights of Hollywood, moviemaker Robert Rodriguez has found Texas-size success
On the cover Alicia Vikander wears cannage knit dress, price upon request, LOUIS VUITTON, louisvuitton.com. Photographed by Bruce Weber; styled by Deborah Watson.
Congresswoman Debbie Dingell may have left behind the auto industry, but she certainly hasn’t lost her drive
Blazer, $450, TOMMY HILFIGER, 212-223-1824. Sweater, $1,040, BERLUTI, 212-439-6400. L’Homme jeans, $209, FRAME DENIM, Barneys New York, 212-826-8900.
TOP: WILLIAM ABRANOWICZ. BOTTOM: JEREMY LIEBMAN.
DUJOU R .COM
Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis reflects on befriending, and collecting, Keith Haring
Eye-catching sunglasses; an iconic watch turns 40; kaleidoscopic resortwear A glittering new crop of spiraling jewelry has us feeling more than a little bit twisted
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CONTENTS
160 94 AN AD MAN’S RETURN TO MARKET
When a renowned ad agency went bankrupt overnight, it left an entire industry wondering what went wrong 96 THE CHIPPING NORTON RESET
Inside the unfathomable return of Britain’s most notorious clique
CULTURE 98 BRUCE WEBER X LIZ TAYLOR
Elizabeth Taylor’s dear friend of nearly three decades, lensman Bruce Weber, shares his memories of the star’s treasured possessions 100 THE MUSIC MAN
How Joel Katz became entertainment’s most sought-after lawyer
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CULTURE PACKAGE
Breakout star Edgar Ramírez; The X-Files is back 102 PORTRAIT OF A GENTLEMAN
Nicholas Cullinan takes the reins at London’s National Portrait Gallery 104 FINDING FRANK
Despite Frank Stella’s awards, accolades and career retrospectives, the artist isn’t quite ready to take it easy
FEATURES 109 ALICIA VIKANDER
It’s been a remarkable year for Alicia Vikander, the extraordinary Swedish actress who’s rocketed from unknown to A-list in almost no time at all. By Adam Rathe; photographed by Bruce Weber
Sandal, $620, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, 212-288-5810.
120 DEFINING MOMENTS
Over 30 of 2015’s most accomplished actors and directors weigh in on the secrets to their big-screen success. By Adam Rathe; photographed by Jeremy Liebman 148 IN GOOD FAITH
Can chaos inspire? Israel’s most interesting, innovative chefs say it can. By Alyssa Giacobbe; photographed by Mark Hartman 152
FINDING TIME
By keeping their faces hidden, some of the world’s most sought-after watches stop appearing like watches at all. Photographed by Grant Cornett
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RAINBOW BRIGHT
TOP: MARTIEN MULDER. BOTTOM: COURTESY.
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GREAT WHITE
Geophysic Universal Time watch Philippe Jordan, Chief Conductor and Music Director in Paris and Vienna
Open a whole new world
W I N T E R 2 015
CONTENTS 141
RAMÍREZ RISING 160 GREAT WHITE
St. Moritz’s 109-year-old White Turf festival is arguably the most overthe-top (and under-the-radar) spectacle in the world. By Mickey Rapkin; photographed by Martien Mulder 166 HIGH TECH
Silicon Valley is a place where dreams can come true, but it’s also home to a culture of rampant drugs and excess— and it has a body count. By Adrienne Gaffney; illustrated by Paul Davis
CITIES 170 ASPEN
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CHICAGO
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Filament’s Southern fare; a dapper menswear newcomer; Pollock hits the DMA
DALLAS/FORT WORTH
The Brazilian Court turns 90; innovative home-building; a salon that’s a cut above
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HOUSTON
194 SAN FRANCISCO
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LAS VEGAS
195 WASHINGTON, D.C.
Custom whiskeys; bold and karmic cuffs; Downton Abbey goes on display 193 PALM BEACH
Cover FX CEO talks beauty; distinctive Noteworthy Bay Area chefs; soaking up spirits; stunning shoes by Joyce Echols Japan’s influence on Western artists Sexy sandals; a red-sauce renaissance; Steve Wynn’s dazzling ShowStoppers 180 LOS ANGELES
Eclectic new eateries; surf-inspired fashion; the ideal Ojai getaway 182 MIAMI
Two transcendent properties; Islamorada’s hidden, chic treasures 187
NEW YORK
Chanel’s cutting-edge cream; cool watches and haute baubles 190 TRI-STATE
European flair in New Canaan; skincentric havens; an enclave of mansions 192 ORANGE COUNTY
Retro Hawaiian swimwear; Kiehl’s gets a makeover; Santa Ana’s culinary hub
The Four Seasons’ face-lift; culture in the capital; Dupont Circle’s latest boîte 196 PARTIES
Snapshots from DuJour celebrations honoring Amar’e Stoudemire, Jason Derulo, Lionel Richie and more
BACKPAGE 200 FAMOUS LAST WORDS
Zaha Hadid’s handwriting tells us what she’s not spelling out
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FINDING TIME Top: Sweater, $345, STEVEN ALAN, stevenalan.com. Above: Serpenti watch in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds and emeralds, price upon request, BULGARI, bulgari.com.
TOP: BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV. BOTTOM: GRANT CORNETT.
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RH’s new Denver outpost; highaltitude spirits; local intel from authors
Captivating Vintage Alhambra Watch, yellow gold, white mother-of-pearl.
Haute Joaillerie, place Vend么me since 1906
Visit our online boutique at vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF
W I N T E R 2 015
ED LETTER
T
Thoughts DuJour
wo years ago, we started the Defining Moments franchise with the idea of celebrating and recognizing that very unique time in a person’s life when things are about to change, and majorly. We put actress Lupita Nyong’o on that inaugural cover back in December 2013, before anyone had heard of the 12 Years a Slave star—it was her very first role in a feature film and her very first time fronting a magazine. But we were certain her obscurity had an end date. And it really did: Within a few months, Nyong’o had the attention of some of fashion’s most important names and Hollywood’s biggest directors, as well as, of course, an Academy Award—the first Kenyan actress to ever receive the honor. That cover was as much a defining moment for us as that period of time was for her. And yet, as we’ve come to realize in the years since, defining moments aren’t necessarily once-in-a-lifetime events. Most people— even those of us who will never be half as famous—will experience a number of critical moments throughout the course of our lives, moments that serve to define and shape us, shift our perspectives or maybe our destinies. That’s what makes life so thrilling; newness is always possible. It’s also what makes this particular time of year so exciting for the film lovers on our staff, because we know there are plenty of career-defining performances in store. For many of the actors in this year’s portfolio— Cate Blanchett, Kate Winslet and John Goodman, to name a few—such groundbreaking roles aren’t their first and very likely won’t be their last, but they are no less notable. There are also a few names that you may be hearing for the first time, like that of our cover star Alicia Vikander, who headlines a number of major films in the coming months, and Cary Joji Fukunaga, the director of one of the most talked-about movies of the season, Beasts of No Nation. Defining moments run throughout the issue. We sent writer Mickey Rapkin to the Swiss Alps to explore the breathtakingly
beautiful, but mostly unknown, world of horse racing on ice. Frances Dodds meets interior designer Samuel Amoia, whose rocket to fame is proof that, even with extreme talent, timing really is everything. We talk to legendary ad man David Lipman, who opens up about his agency’s well-publicized bankruptcy. The story he shares, about accepting blame but not letting failure define you forever, is one we think will resonate with many. We also explore Israel’s emerging food scene, and in particular the chefs working hard to help steer the conversation in and about their country away from conflict and towards hope and community instead. At DuJour, we value all of the writers, photographers and stylists whose singular talents bring our stories to life, but our relationship with Bruce Weber is undeniably one of our most special. This issue, Bruce photographed Vikander, but he also grants us access to some of his most treasured memories of his friend Elizabeth Taylor, which he describes as some of the more magical moments of his career and life. Weber’s recollections are further proof that just when you think you know something, or someone, they come along and surprise you. Is there anything more beautiful and hopeful than that?
Nicole Vecchiarelli NV@DuJour.com • Instagram: editor_nv
TOP: JEREMY LIEBMAN. VECCHIARELLI: THOMAS WHITESIDE.
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From left: The Danish Girl director Tom Hooper and his star, Eddie Redmayne, at the Crosby Street Hotel in New York City.
W I N T E R 2 015
CEO LETTER
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DUJOU R .COM
L
ooking back at fall in the rearview mirror, it can feel like it was here and gone in a second, but luckily here at DuJour we have plenty to remember. We welcomed the new season at our end-of-summer brunch with former police commissioner Ray Kelly, Good Day New York’s Greg Kelly and Just Drew designer Andrew Warren at Topping Rose House in the Hamptons—soaking up as many of those final warm afternoon hours as possible. And September was full steam ahead: In Miami we celebrated our favorite new member of the Heat, the supremely talented Amar’e Stoudemire, at Shareef Malnik’s The Forge—and back in New York we fêted our digital cover star, Jason Derulo, who brought down the house with a private performance at Avenue nightclub. In October we raised a glass to living legend Lionel Richie at the PHD Terrace at the Dream Hotel Midtown—with thanks as ever to Noah Tepperberg and Jason Strauss. The following night, in a very special first for us, we toasted the unveiling of our Gamechangers issue at the Friars Club, made unforgettable by the brilliant planning of Paul Alitzer. We were thrilled to celebrate the issue’s cover stars—Derek Jeter, Katie Couric, the Fat Jew, Airbnb’s Brian Chesky and the breakout electric car ingénues Faraday Future—who we know to be visionaries in their respective fields. Of course, none of this would have come together without a dedicated team turning the wheels behind the scenes. The editorial and digital teams are always working to make the reader’s experience smoother and more engaging, and we are delighted to say since this time last year our website’s monthly uniques increased by 123 percent, and we nearly doubled our newsletter subscribers and social fans. Speaking of digital growth, we are also thrilled to announce a new member of our team: industry veteran Leslie Farrand, who has joined DuJour as chief revenue officer. Many exciting developments ahead!
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1. Laverne Cox 2. Dom Pérignon’s Trent Fraser and Kelly Rutherford 3. Wass Stevens 4. CEO of Sciame Construction Frank Sciame 5. Marla Maples and NY Post Page Six’s Emily Smith 6. Isaia’s owner, Gianluca Isaia 7. Hollywood Foreign Press Association’s Munawar Hosain, Lilla Soria and Lorenzo Soria 8. Gilt Groupe’s Keith George 9. CMO of Shinola, marketing wizard Bridget Russo 10. Omega USA Brand President Brice Le Troadec and VP of Worldwide Global Communications & PR Jean-Pascal Perret 11. Fabergé’s Justin Hogbin 12. Jason Derulo and CeCe Binn 13. Absolut Elyx’s Tom Roberts
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Jason Binn Twitter: jasonbinn • Instagram: jasonbinn
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CEO LETTER HANDPICKED
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14. Shinola’s Jacques Panis 15. Greg Calejo, Fern Mallis, Patrick McMullan, Richard Pérez-Feria, Thom Filicia, George Wayne at the Elliman magazine party 16. Duca Sartoria’s Max Girombelli 17. Eliza Howard, Irving Place Capital’s John Howard and Molly Howard 18. New York City Football Club’s Tom Glick and Marty Von Wuthenau 19. Advisor at The Players’ Tribune Marcy Simon, Chef Éric Ripert 20. Reya Benitez, designer Andrew Warren and Tiffany Trump 21. Good Day New York’s Greg Kelly, co-founder of Evolve Together Rebecca Bond 22. Global Head of PR & Communication at Kering, Celeste Morozzi 23. Vince Sabio, Lou Cona, CEO of Hermès Robert Chavez 24. NetJets Inc’s Director of Global Brand Media, Nicole Rohrmann, and Manager of Global Strategic Alliances, Ajay Jain 25. CEO of LionTree LLC Aryeh Bourkoff 26. CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels Alain Bernard 27. Jeana Stone, President and COO of Fontainebleau Miami Phil Goldfarb
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DuJour (ISSN 2328-8868) is published four times a year by DuJour Media Group, LLC., 2 Park Avenue, NYC 10016, 646-679-1687. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to DuJour magazine’s right to edit. Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, photographs and drawings. Copyright © 2015 DuJour Media Group, LLC. For a subscription to DuJour magazine, go to subscribe.dujour.com, call 954-653-3922 or e-mail duj@themagstore.com.
MICHELE OKA DONER “Alicia Vikander,” p. 109
Artist Michele Oka Doner was thinking of the rebels out there when she created the sculptural jewelry pieces worn by Alicia Vikander in our cover shoot. “They’re feral, wild, and have lots of energy,” she says. The Miami-born artist counts photographer Bruce Weber, who shot the piece, as a longtime friend and collaborator. “Bruce is a warm, loving, all-encompassing person,” says Oka Doner, whose sculptures and public art installations have been exhibited all over the world. “He curates families; he’s very modern in that way.” SOUP DUJOUR:
French onion
ROBERT FAIRCHILD “Alicia Vikander,” p. 109
DUJOU R .COM
As a principal for the New York City Ballet, Robert Fairchild—who currently stars in Christopher Wheeldon’s dance-drunk Broadway musical An American in Paris—knows good dancing. Which makes his endorsement of Swedish actress Alicia Vikander’s skills all the more meaningful. “She can really dance,” says Fairchild, who partners up with the one-time ballerina for our cover story, captured by Bruce Weber. “She could be in a ballet company today. It’s very impressive.” Butternut squash
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SOUP DUJOUR:
Contributors
JEREMY LIEBMAN “Defining Moments,” p. 120
Brooklyn-based photographer Jeremy Liebman captured more than two dozen actors and directors over three cities for the 28-page portfolio canvassing the season’s best films—“a big responsibility,” he says, “but of course I was happy to take it on.” Liebman, whose work has also appeared in W and Details, was even, he admits, a little starstruck when face-to-face with one of his all-time favorite actors, John Goodman. “I watched Roseanne as a kid,” he gushed. “So it was exciting to meet him.” SOUP DUJOUR:
French onion
OKA DONER AND FAIRCHILD: BRUCE WEBER. LIEBMAN: COURTESY.
Getting to know some of the talent behind the issue—lunch orders and all Written by Natalia de Ory
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CONTRIBUTORS MARTIEN MULDER “Great White,” p. 160
Patience was less a virtue than a pleasure for Dutch-born photographer Martien Mulder, who waited—and waited—atop a frozen lake to capture the perfect shot of St. Moritz’s ritualistic White Turf races, held every year in the middle of February. “The snow was really coming down, so there was a lot of bundling up,” she says, “but it was so beautiful.” Despite being on the job, Mulder—whose work has also been featured in Esquire and Wonderland—couldn’t help but get into the spirit of the festivities. “It’s kind of a relaxed festival atmosphere...but on ice.” SOUP DUJOUR:
Gazpacho
MICKEY RAPKIN “Great White,” p. 160
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“Honestly, it feels like a dream,” says Mickey Rapkin of his journey to St. Moritz to report on the fashionable resort town’s annual White Turf festival. While there, Rapkin, who has written for GQ and the New York Times, happily immersed himself in all sorts of Alpine traditions—daydrinking, fur coats—and marveled at the event, even as the locals played it a bit cooler. “Horse racing on a track made of ice is a feat of engineering, which everyone else seemed to take for granted,” he says. “‘Of course we have horses racing on ice. Now re-fill this champagne glass.’” SOUP DUJOUR:
Matzoh ball
NATASHA WOLFF
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As a child of the art world, Natasha Wolff would have occasional playdates with Frank Stella’s two sons in the artist’s Greenwich Village home. “Once, we mixed together a bunch of paint on paper and made a giant mud-colored drawing—and a huge mess in the process,” she gleefully recalls. For this issue, Wolff, who oversees the magazine’s Cities section, interviewed the artist about his first retrospective at the Whitney. “It was a massive undertaking for him and for the museum,” she says. “He was so open about the challenges, and especially about the often-tricky exchange between artist and curator.”
ELEANOR CLIFT “Debbie Takes The Wheel,” p. 90
“Everyone in Washington knows Debbie Dingell,” insists Eleanor Clift. “And they knew her long before she became a member of Congress.” Clift, a regular contributor to MSNBC and the Daily Beast, calls the congresswoman a “networker extraordinaire,” thanks to her long career on both sides of the political spectrum. “She’s a listener and knows how to bring people together,” says the D.C.-based writer, “and she’s a strong voice for issues that are of particular concern to women.” SOUP DUJOUR:
Lentil
SOUP DUJOUR:
Italian wedding
WILLIAM ABRANOWICZ “Material World,” p. 58
William Abranowicz hadn’t heard of Samuel Amoia before photographing the young designer at his home in Chelsea, and describes their first meeting as an entirely pleasant surprise. “He’s immensely talented, kind and handsome as could be,” says Abranowicz, whose portraits, still lifes and landscapes have appeared in nearly every major publication, including the New York Times Magazine, Bon Appetit and Condé Nast Traveler. “What’s great about photographing a designer’s home is getting to see the chances they take—it’s a bit of a laboratory for them,” he says, noting that Amoia’s bedroom was a particular favorite. “It had a simplicity to it, but also an incredible richness,” says Abranowicz. “It conveyed everything about him.” SOUP DUJOUR:
Clam chowder
RAPKIN: ILANA DIAMOND. ABRANOWICZ: ARSENII VASELENKO. ALL OTHERS COURTESY.
“Finding Frank,” p. 104, and Cities, p. 169
Melody of Colours
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Beige Watch
The most compelling menswear of the season has us gearing up to get into neutrals Photographed by Alex John Beck Styled by Paul Frederick
From left: Coat, $1,850, EIDOS NAPOLI, bloomingdales.com. Shirt, $740; Trousers, $530, MARC JACOBS, marcjacobs.com. Shoes, $695, ISAIA , isaia.it. Nabucco coat, $3,200, CARUSO, 646-757-3041. Blazer, price upon request; Sweater, $1,170, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, 212-334-1010. Trousers, $6,900, HERMĂˆS, hermes.com. Slipper, $205, AXEL ARIGATO, axelarigato.com. Jacket, $2,340; Trousers, $550, MAISON MARGIELA , 212-989-7612. Sweater, $2,850, TOM FORD, 888-866-3673. Portofino Automatic watch, $4,900, IWC, wempe.com. Shoes, price upon request, ETRO, etro.com.
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From left: Bespoke sports coat, $1,895, HICKEY FREEMAN, hickeyfreeman.com. Sweater, price upon request; Trousers, price upon request, FENDI, fendi.com. Hampton watch, $1,550, BAUME & MERCIER, baume-et-mercier.com. Slip-on, $195, AXEL ARIGATO, axelarigato.com. Shirt, $345, HAMILTON SHIRTS, hamiltonshirts.com. Trousers, $760, JIL SANDER, ssense.com. Vintage tie, HAMLET’S VINTAGE, 212-228-1561. Sk8-Hi Decon CA sneakers, $110, VANS, vans.com. New Stockdale Blouson jacket, $3,700; Kristopher sweater, $595; Felmore trousers, $395, BELSTAFF, belstaff.com. Brogues, $300, DR. MARTENS, drmartens.com.
MASTER ANY DOMAIN. THE NEW 2016 LX The LX doesn’t just blur the line between luxury and capability, it completely obliterates it. Refined enough for even the most sophisticated affair, it also features the new Lexus Safety System+ to help keep you out of harm’s way. Venture off-road 1 and you’ll discover it’s more than able to take on some of the world’s most demanding terrains. From the boulevard to far beyond it, the LX is proof that luxury is never out of place. 383-HP 2 V8 ENGINE
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Options shown. 1. The LX 570 is designed to meet most off-road driving requirements. Abusive use may result in bodily harm or damage. Lexus encourages responsible operation to help protect you, your vehicle and the environment. Seatbelts should be worn at all times. Do not allow passengers to ride in cargo area. Tow hitch receivers/ball mount kits are not intended to provide crash protection. 2. Ratings achieved using the required premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher. If premium fuel is not used, performance will decrease. 3. Mark Levinson® is a registered trademark of Harman International Industries, Inc. ©2015 Lexus.
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From left: Bomber, $5,390, TOM FORD, 310-270-9440. Turtleneck, $890, MARC JACOBS, marcjacobs.com. Trousers, price upon request, LANVIN, lanvin.com. Heirloom signet ring, $450, DAVID YURMAN, davidyurman.com. Slip-on, $195, AXEL ARIGATO, axelarigato.com. Retford suit, $1,495; Polo shirt, $475, BOGLIOLI, boglioli.it. Sweater (worn around waist), $895, ISAIA, isaia.it. Grande Reverso Ultra Thin watch, $16,500, JAEGER-LeCOULTRE, 646-828-4328. Slipper, $205, AXEL ARIGATO. Coat, $11,800, LOUIS VUITTON, louisvuitton.com. Shirt, $3,770, MARNI, marni.com. Trousers, price upon request, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, 212-334-1010. Loafers, $695, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, zegna,com.
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From left: Suit, $4,995; Shirt, $695; Tie, $235, RALPH LAUREN, ralphlauren.com. Portugieser Automatic watch, $24,400, IWC, wempe.com. Slipper, $205, AXEL ARIGATO, axelarigato.com. Kei suit, $2,325, CANALI, canali.com. Bomber jacket, $630, CARVEN, carven.com. Authentic sneakers, $45, VANS, vans.com. Suit, price upon request, VERSACE, 888-721-7219. T-shirt, price upon request, GIORGIO ARMANI, armani.com. Sneakers, $195, AXEL ARIGATO, axelarigato.com. Groomer: Andrew Fitzsimons using Oribe Hair Care. Talent, from left: Zak Steiner/ReQuest, Dane Bell/VNY, Geron McKinley/ReQuest. Casting: Ros Okusanya.
A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME – WITH RIMOWA The 1920s marked the beginning of modern air travel and the golden age of Hollywood. In 1919, Hugo Junkers presented the world’s first all-metal commercial aircraft. It was made using the aircraft aluminum alloy discovered by Alfred Wilm in 1906. In 1950, RIMOWA presented its suitcase with the unmistakable grooved design made of the same material – at the time, it was the lightest suitcase in the world. RIMOWA was a real pioneer in the sector, starting the trend for lightweight luggage back then. RIMOWA STORE NEW YORK CITY: 535 MADISON AVENUE PHONE: 212-758-1060
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O
kay, maybe I’m not the most technologically savvy person on the planet. I clung to my ancient BlackBerry until one day a bunch of teenagers on the subway actually pointed at the thing and shrieked with laughter. I still think the Cloud is something from a Rolling Stones song, not a tool I better sign up for before I lose all my data. So the idea of strapping on a timepiece so smug that it refers to itself as a “smartwatch” presents a serious challenge. It’s not that I don’t wear a watch—in fact I’m a vintagejewelry collector, with drawers full of pre–World War II tickers in various states of disrepair. I love their noble numbers, their burnished cases, despite that when it comes to their one and only task, they’re frequently temperamental. Still, when I ended up with an Apple Watch on my wrist earlier this year, I was up for the challenge—especially when the company agrees to schedule a session with a teacher meant to make me feel comfortable using it. First off, she informs me that the watch—a 38mm model with a stainless-steel case—is actually tethered to my iPhone by
some kind of mystical, invisible umbilical cord, without which it can do little more than give me the time of day. Though you can choose from 13 screen styles, I go with my old friend Mickey Mouse, looking pretty much like he does on the face of the iconic Mickey Mouse Ingersoll watch that sold for around $3 in 1933. (I have one of these, and guess what? I paid way more than $3 for it, and it doesn’t work.) Mickey even taps his little yellow shoe in the direction of his gloved minute-hand, and I would be content to let him just tap and tell time, but my teacher insists on showing me the tiny symbols that get magically bigger when you touch them— icons that can inform you that your stock portfolio is tanking, or that it’s going to snow in Wichita. Many small miracles follow. You can use your watch to pay for a bottle of aspirin from Walgreens! (As yet it is not equipped to procure a pair of Manolos at Bergdorf Goodman, alas.) You can pull up a boarding pass, that flappy piece of paper I have been known to lose between the X-ray machine and the gate. You can send your heart rate to another Apple Watch owner who is interested in what your heart rate is. (I haven’t met this person yet, but maybe he or she is out there.) There are even differently colored rings that chart how much you Move, Exercise and Stand. (They confirm what I suspect: I do manage to Move and Stand, but when it comes to Exercise, the lime-colored indicator ring is nearly invisible.) Best of all, my new watch can e-mail and text! Well, sort of. You can only read e-mails, and in order to send a text you must dictate it to the notorious message-garbling dumb-bunny Siri. But so what? My adorable teacher says this feature is very helpful in business meetings when you don’t want to take your phone out. (Though do you really want to be caught staring at your watch in a meeting?) Then again, I don’t go to meetings. I’m freelance, which means on nice days I spend a lot of time walking around window-shopping, and it’s delightful not to have to fish my phone out of my bottomless handbag, but instead let Mickey fetch my e-mails and texts. One week in, I’m a total sucker for this thing, shoving my wrist in my friends’ faces and waiting for them to comment—though certain sticks-in-the-mud in my circle remain uncharmed. One fellow especially thinks it’s ridiculous. (This guy has a flip phone, so consider the source.) But even he, with his hauteur, his disdain, is brought low one day at lunch. Suddenly my wrist buzzes, and I lift up my arm and talk to the hand! All of his cynicism evaporates, and he mists up, thinking, he confesses, of Dick Tracy and his two-way wrist radio. By the look of joy on his face, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if the next time I see him, he has chucked his light-up Timex and is deep in conversation with Siri. I can’t say I will abandon my vintage babies entirely, even if their mechanical engines, no matter how valiant, will never be able to send a text or take a call. But here’s a thought—if Apple can offer a new Hermès model, maybe they can figure out a way to refit a 1920s cocktail watch with postmodern innards. A girl can dream. ■
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Talk to the Hand
An antique-timepiece devotee has a charmed—albeit puzzling—affair with a hot new smartwatch Written by Lynn Yaeger Photographed by Kathryn Hurni
STYLE NEWS Average weight per pair, thanks to the Grade 5 titanium used
0.7
ounces
3.6carats Weight of champagne diamonds used in the “Big Love” frame
$22,500
50
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COST OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE FRAME IN THE LINE, THE BIG LOVE WITH WHITE DIAMONDS
2
Years spent in the design process
Shamballa by the Numbers Breaking down the beloved
jewelry brand’s soughtafter—and exceedingly expensive—collaboration with eyewear guru Larry Sands
6
THE NUMBER OF PAIRS KARL LAGERFELD IS SAID TO HAVE PURCHASED FROM PARISIAN BOUTIQUE COLETTE ON THE FIRST DAY, AT $1,195 APIECE
Average amount of time spent constructing one pair
360 minutes
Time Flies
Bulgari celebrates the 40th anniversary of the world’s most coveted watch Andy Warhol once said of his trips to Rome, “I always visit Bulgari, because it is the most important museum of contemporary art.” Bulgari has always made waves artistically—but it certainly hasn’t slacked on the branding front either. The first luxury label to engrave the company’s name on the cases of its watches, Bulgari has since become an unmistakable status symbol. From Bill Gates to Tina Turner, the brand is now a staple in the uniforms of some of the world’s most powerful people. And this year marks the 40th anniversary of the watch that started it all: the signature Bulgari Roma, of which there are only 100 originals. To mark the occasion, Bulgari is presenting four new editions of the Roma timepiece—one for each of its glamour-defining decades. —FRANCES DODDS Turner wearing a Bulgari Roma watch circa 1970.
SUNGLASSES: COURTESY. ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES.
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Pendant earrings, $33,500, BUCCELLATI, buccellati.com. MISSONI
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Crazy Carats watch, $5,800, FENDI, fendi.com. AKRIS DUJOU R .COM
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Striking Coil
A glittering new crop of spiraling jewelry has us feel覺ng more than a little bit twisted Photographed by Jamie Chung
PHOTO CREDITS TEEKAY
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PHOTO CREDITS TEEKAY
Clockwise from top left: Egg pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $15,000, FABERGÉ , faberge.com. Ring in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, $9,100, GUCCI, gucci.com. Pirouette Oreille earring in 14-karat yellow gold, $457, SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE , Dover Street Market New York, 646-837-7750. Willow ring with diamonds, $1,450, DAVID YURMAN , davidyurman.com. Twisted Nail collar in 18-karat yellow gold, $11,600, DAVID WEBB, davidwebb.com. Allegra pendant necklace in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, $15,000, DE GRISOGONO, 212-439-4220. Paloma Picasso Venezia Luce earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $38,500, TIFFANY & CO., tiffany.com. Barocco Collar necklace in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, $11,100, ROBERTO COIN , Neiman Marcus, 212-840-1200. Line ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $8,400, ELENA VOTSI, Dover Street Market New York. Whirl ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, $8,750, CARELLE , carelle.com. Stylist: Sonia Rentsch.
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GO AHEAD, CATCH YOUR BREATH. WE K NOW THE FEELING.
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LIFE
Material World Interior designer Samuel Amoia is
sculpting his domain with a steady hand Written by Frances Dodds Photographed by William Abranowicz
Sitting Pretty From left: pillows from artisan in Guatemala City; lamp by BILLY COTTON; salt and plaster drum by AMOIA STUDIO; books on table: Reproducing Scholten & Baijings by Louise Schouwenberg; The Gardener’s Garden and Ettore Sottsass by Philippe Thomé, phaidon.com.
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W heels Up has lowered the point of entr y, so I can enjoy more time away with family and friends. W hen I travel for leisure, the King Air 350i just makes sense. It’s quiet, comfor table, and roomy enough for a big group, so we can turn the trip into a social event. Wheels Up acts as an agent for the Wheels Up members, and is not the operator of the program aircraft; FAA licensed and DOT registered air carriers participating in the program exercise full operational control of the program aircraft. Subject to additional terms and conditions in the Wheels Up Program documents.
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S
amuel Amoia is sitting in his living room in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood, thinking about texture: the coolness and grandeur of marble, the rustle of a silk skirt in motion, the weight and warmth of mahogany, the unexpected smoothness of sea glass in your palm. “There are certain things,” he says, “that never go out of style, because there’s a history to them—luxurious, sumptuous materials; beautiful, raw materials. There’s a reverence.” What he’s really talking about are the stories we’ve sewn from the fabric of the world around us—that we’ve absorbed tangibly into our memories and passed on for centuries. Texture, he believes, is the very fiber of experience. And when it comes to design, it’s the difference between transient and timeless. Backlit by the window in the late-afternoon light, Amoia, 33, pushes one hand through his heavy dark hair and drums the fingers of his other against his knee, crossing and uncrossing his legs from time to time, reconfiguring his body with his thoughts. It’s easy to see why the many media outlets to feature him recently—Architectural Digest and Vogue among them—have been sure to include a picture of him alongside his design work. It’s true that he is very good looking, but there’s something else too: a kind of chiseled energy, an exacting momentum. But back to texture. Amoia is pointing out the Italian Carrara marble in his kitchen and bathroom, rapping a knuckle against the doorframes and radiators stripped to their original zinc. He picks up a throw pillow he found in Guatemala City and tosses it back on the couch, flips over a plaster side table from his acclaimed capsule collection, AMMA Studio, to show how light it is. AMMA was the precursor to his latest project, Amoia Studio, an endeavor he and his youngest brother, Dominic, are calling “sculptural furniture.” This description makes sense when you see the pieces: varying styles of drum tables and consoles encrusted with minerals and gemstones—malachite, tourmaline, amethyst, jasper, moonstone, calcite and so on. Indeed, the Amoia brothers are trafficking so many crystals it’s a wonder they haven’t been raided by the local oracle club. This winter, the new collection will go on display at the Upper East Side’s illustrious DeLorenzo Gallery, a dealer specializing in rarified decorative arts. At DeLorenzo, Amoia will join the ranks of the 20th-century masters: Jean Dupas, Eileen Gray, Isamu Noguchi, Armand Albert Rateau, Alberto Giacometti, Frank Lloyd Wright. There are many exceptional things about Amoia, but in this crowd his most striking feature is simply that he’s still breathing. He will be the first living designer featured by the gallery. Adriana Friedman, DeLorenzo’s director, had been searching for someone gifted enough to make the cut for years. “I’ve had many talented designers and architects walk through the gallery,” she says. “But I think he is
“HE IS A BLOSSOMING VISIONARY. HE’S OUT THERE COMPETING WITH JACQUES GRANGE AND PETER MARINO.”
a blossoming visionary. He’s out there competing with Jacques Grange and Peter Marino.” Amoia’s place among the roundups of “designers on the rise” was not always a given. He was 16 when his family moved from upstate New York to Miami, where he began working as a bellboy at the Delano hotel, which led to a series of hospitality jobs for hoteliers Ian Schrager and André Balazs—and eventually landed him in New York at the Standard hotel’s Boom Boom Room. At 25, he was taking a few design courses at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and mentioned this to a Standard regular who said, “You should meet my friend.” The friend turned out to be Stephen Sills, one of New York’s most legendary designers, who counts Vera Wang, Anna Wintour and Tina Turner among his clients. Three weeks after they met, Sills asked Amoia to lunch and offered him a job. Sills was confident in what he saw in Amoia, even if Amoia hadn’t yet realized it himself. “Sam has an original point of view,” Sills says. “He’s not bogged down with the past.” “Stephen is very introverted—an oddball,” Amoia says. “But we clicked. He really took me under his wing, and I was a sponge. There are many great designers today, but they’re all kind of doing the same thing, or following a trend… Stephen is a true artist. I know I will never be as
Indigo Dreams Left: custom mirror by the designer. Above: Italian Carrara marble in the bathroom. Below, from left: painting by ALEX FIDELI; Tuareg rug from Africa; custom chair by the designer; nesting stools, lamp and screen by ITZ’ANA HOME BY SAMUEL AMOIA, itzanahome.com; Aird Porcelain Tall Vase, $500, CALVIN KLEIN HOME, calvinklein.com; arrangement by KAT FLOWER, katflower.com.
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LIFE great of a designer as he is; it’s really his calling. But it made me think, ‘Okay, this is what he does. How can I take my own interests, my own passions, and make it mine?’” The eventual endgame to this line of questioning was Samuel Amoia Associates, a design firm that launched in 2013 in New York, with a satellite office in Miami. He’s since accumulated a wide range of projects, from high-end residential properties in New York and Miami Beach to varied commercial commissions like Indochine in Miami, the S10 Training in Tribeca, Dos Caminos on Park Avenue, the Elle Décor showhouse at Art Basel, the recently completed Itz’ana Hotel and Residences in Belize and even the DeLorenzo Gallery’s new Madison Avenue space. Considering the sudden and steep nature of his ascension, one might think Amoia would feel overwhelmed by the deluge of resources now available to him, but he says it’s actually the opposite. “Before going out on my own, my only interior-design job was with Stephen, and his clients are all billionaires and collectors,” he says. “There was this level of thinking like, Okay, sure, $700,000 for a cabinet that will be in one of 40 rooms in their fifth home. Now I have to be more restrained, but it’s fun because that’s my aesthetic. I’m into materials, and I’m a firm believer in under-design. It’s constantly pulling back, pulling back.” Through Amoia’s window comes the sound of kids walking home from school; his dogs, Bruno and Pig, seem ready for a walk. The final stop on his apartment tour is the bedroom, and here he pauses. “I like having a kind of monastic living space,” he says. “Originally I only wanted a bed, but…” He gestures to the rest of the room as if to say, “life is more complicated than that.” Texture here shows up in baseball caps stowed in African bowls, a cerused wood credenza custom-built for the wardrobes of two, a tropical folding screen hiding the dogs’ toys, a painting leaning against the wall waiting to be hung, but positioned just so. ■
“I’M A FIRM BELIEVER IN UNDER-DESIGN. IT’S CONSTANTLY PULLING BACK, PULLING BACK.”
A Table for Two From top: custom table by the designer. On table: Réaction Poétique Tray, $490, JAIME HAYON FOR CASSINA, cassina.com; Rise Stoneware Tall Vase in Midnight, $900, CALVIN KLEIN HOME; arrangement by KAT FLOWER , katflower.com. Books: Map: Exploring the World, phaidon.com; Valentino: Mirabilia Romae, assouline.com. Sackett Highball Glasses, $30 each, and carafe, $75, RALPH LAUREN HOME, ralphlauren.com; Helena carafe, $22, CANVAS HOME, canvashomestore .com; PARTIDA BLANCO Tequila, $42, partidatequila.com; WOODFORD RESERVE Sweet Mash Redux, $50, woodfordreserve.com.
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LIFE Where’s the Beef? The new breed of jerky pairs sustainably farmed alt-meats like lamb, chicken and salmon with unexpected seasonings like ginger and mint. Stylist: Caitlin Levin.
Meat Cute
Step aside, gas-station beef chews— jerky is getting an artisanal upgrade Written by Elizabeth Wallace Photographed by Henry Hargreaves
THE SNACK KNOWN as “jerky”— fresh meat dried to help with perishability—dates back to the 1500s, but modern jerky has evolved into a highend sport. Artisanal crafters have chosen the snack as their latest conquest, oneupping one another with sustainably farmed meats and fashionable ingredient blends, from cranberry-and-sriracha beef and basil-citrus turkey to doublehitter bacon-chia bison. Krave Jerky’s offerings, which include black-cherry barbecue and Chardonnay thyme, even come with recipes—like deviled eggs and jerky and meaty mac ‘n’ cheese—and suggested drink pairings. Epic, meanwhile, a favorite among the Paleo set, peddles grass-fed beef bites and trail mixes for the “coconut carnivores” among us. Mouth CEO Craig Kanarick, who sells varieties like Three Jerks Jerky’s filet mignon, in flavors including chipotle adobo and Memphis BBQ, attributes the indie moment to “new and innovative recipes, a focus on better ingredients and a high level of craft.” We’re also eating more—but better—meat in general. This fall, at Fleishers Craft Butchery in Brooklyn, Kings County Jerky vet Chris Woehrle introduced a 100 percent grass-fed beefjerky line, rolling out a DIY kit with drying racks, seasoning tin and recipes. “Once people know it’s simply slicing meat into strips, spicing it and drying it slowly at a low temp, they get excited to try it themselves,” he says. Stockingstuffer brainstorm, done. ■
“Meat Rushmore”—a 1,600-pound replica of the presidential monument made entirely of jerky—was placed in NYC’s Columbus Circle last year for National Jerky Day.
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Please enjoy 50 Bleu responsibly. Distilled from Polish rye. Imported by Park Street Imports, Miami, FL.
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Southern Exposure
From ceviche to asado, the varied regional cuisines of South America are experiencing a renaissance, thanks in no small part to a group of ace chefs bringing these flavors north of the border Written by Laura Neilson
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HOMELAND:
Uruguay
GASTÓN ACURIO HOMELAND:
Peru
MINA NEWMAN HOMELAND:
Peru
FRANCIS MALLMANN HOMELAND:
Argentina
JOSÉ ANDRÉS HOMELAND:
Spain
LATEST RESTAURANT:
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LATEST RESTAURANT:
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LATEST RESTAURANT:
Miami’s Quinto La Huella THE BACKSTORY: Morales has cooked in Spain and Italy, as well as in Northern California at Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse, where he forged his commitment to local, organic ingredients. This winter, he’s bringing simplified seafood to the first U.S. outpost of La Huella, where the rotating menu also features grilled meats, clay-roasted vegetables and seasonal salads. HE SAYS: “Inspired by my experience [at Chez Panisse], we built relationships with our organic producers; my outlook on our cuisine started in the ground.”
Chicago’s Tanta THE BACKSTORY: Since opening the acclaimed Astrid y Gastón in Lima in 1994, Gastón Acurio’s empire has expanded to more than 40 restaurants, both in Peru and abroad. This spring, Acurio published Peru: The Cookbook, a collection of recipes traversing his homeland’s culinary heritage. Meanwhile, at two-yearold Tanta, diners nosh on seafood ceviches, causas made from whipped potatoes and anticuchos, a popular street food served on skewers. HE SAYS: “Every dish is a story about our Peruvian way of life.”
New York’s Sen Sakana THE BACKSTORY: The Japanese name of this Midtown Manhattan restaurant means “1,000 Fish,” a reference to the fabled underwater creatures believed to swim between Peru and Japan. Here, the commingling of those two countries’ unique flavors is informed by the backgrounds of Newman and her Japanese-born co-chef Taku Nagai. SHE SAYS: “We directly incorporated our heritages and our favorite dishes into what we make at Sen Sakana. Ceviches, rice, cilantro and various levels of acidity are all very important aspects.”
Miami’s Los Fuegos THE BACKSTORY: At his restaurants in Buenos Aires, the celebrated chef draws heavily from his Patagonian roots and the survivalist customs of the wandering gaucho. True to its name (“the fires” in English), Los Fuegos— in the EAST, Miami hotel—showcases live-fire cooking, from meats and seafood grilled over open flames and a la plancha to ember-roasted vegetables. HE SAYS: “The gaucho lives in the wild and his life is ruled by a fire that moves with him as he camps. I admire the way gauchos use fire, sometimes as their only companion.”
Washington, D.C.’s China Chilcano THE BACKSTORY: For his latest eatery, the chef looked to Peru’s unique fusion of indigenous flavors with those imported by Asian immigrants throughout the late 19th century. The resulting dishes include sudado de pescado, a traditional Peruvian fish stew, which Andrés prepares en papillote for an upscale, flavorful twist. HE SAYS: “The possibilities with Peruvian cuisine are endless, and the mix with Japanese and Chinese influences just works so well and gives you a large palette of flavors and ingredients to play with.”
PUFF PIECES
Luxury hotel brand Le Méridien has partnered with James Beard Award– winning pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini on the sweetest of adventures. He was sent to some of the destinations boasting a Le Méridien property—the Côte d’Azur, New Delhi, San Francisco—in order to develop unique éclair recipes inspired by these locales. Most recently, Iuzzini took to his motorcycle to mine the culinary riches of Barcelona and Tarragona, Spain, where he found carob flour to create a shell and fine-wine vinegar from the centuries-old cellars of Avgvstvs Forvm for a glaze, as well as an almond-paste filling and dried-fig toppings. Says Iuzzini of his newest éclair, exclusively available at Le Méridien’s two Barcelona-area properties, “It has rich smoky flavors, sweetness—yet hints of crispiness and saltiness pop out and surprise you from bite to bite.” starwoodhotels.com —CHADNER NAVARRO
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ALEJANDRO MORALES
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The Queen, Keith Haring (1985).
“MY ART COLLECTION is very
because I’ve never been bored by it. much about my own personal taste. Now it hangs in one of the guest rooms It’s very colorful, with a lot of Pop in my castle; it’s a black and white Art. It’s not conceptual at all, but more room, so the painting fits in well.” —AS TOLD TO ALISHA PRAKASH about fun and humor. I first met Keith Haring at Andy Warhol’s Factory. Andy had invited us for lunch, so we started talking and Keith told me that he was an artist. Later, I went to visit his studio, and that’s how we became friends. I didn’t know about art so much at the time, but liked him as a person and thought he was cool, and that’s why I bought some pieces. This is one of the oldest pieces I have. I thought it was nice for me to have The Queen, because I am a princess—and it almost looked as though it was a portrait of me. All the other Haring paintings are of funny figures; there’s not a portrait in the lot. So I liked this from the beginning and I still like it today. That shows that it’s an important painting,
My First Piece of Art
The onetime wild child—whose German castle has been exalted in a lavish new tome, The House of Thurn und Taxis—reflects on befriending, and collecting, Keith Haring Princess Gloria, a devout Catholic, was among the first people to be received by Benedict XVI after he became pope.
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LIFE
The Case for Staying Put
Ticking off destinations on your bucket list can be satisfying, but some travelers take comfort in returning to the same place, at the same time, year after year Written by Heidi Mitchell
E
very month, another magazine arrives in the mail, and a new set of “It” destinations are anointed: Myanmar is the new Thailand! The Silk Road is the new Grand Tour! Just keeping the global nomad’s map straight can be exhausting. And while getting there before Beyoncé can be exhilarating to some, others find comfort in a different sort of holiday. In a world where time is a luxury and your backstory—thanks to Google or the Ashley Madison breach—is public knowledge, heading to a hotel where everyone and everything is exactly as you left it can be as soothing as a standing weekly therapy session. Even for those who could easily spin the globe and choose any private resort, anywhere from Georgia (the state) to Georgia (the country), indulgence comes not from being the first or the most remote, but from knowing just which lounge chair secures the last rays of sun and what waiter will sneak you a second dessert. These “generational resorts” are comfort zones to annual guests; like the bar in Cheers, they are places where everybody knows their name. And that’s just how they like it.
Nostalgia has something to do with the desire to head back to the same spot every season. On Nantucket, the White Elephant hotel’s general manager, Bettina Landt, has seen this phenomenon for decades. “Our annual guests greatly value tradition and ease,” she says. “Parents who spent their childhood summers on the island with their family hope to create the same memories for their own children.” From generation to generation, ice cream at the Juice Bar, making sand castles at Jetties Beach and sneaking off with friends to the Chicken Box are all a part of growing up. Carving out a week each year—the same time at the same place—often provides a light at the end of the tunnel (or, as was the case the past three years, at the end of a very dreary winter). At The Breakers, a 120-year-old resort in Palm Beach, annual visitors make up around 40 percent of the entire guest population from mid-December until the end of April. During peak holiday periods, that number rises to almost half. Regulars like financier Ben Jamron of New York City, who was married at The Breakers in 2007 and now comes back yearly, love that the guest rooms and public spaces retain their Old World glamour (the owners invest
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$25 million each year in refurbishments, which shows), but they also feel a kinship with the staff: 45 percent of the employees have worked at the patrician resort for at least five years and 20 staffers have been on hand for 30 years. “Many tennis-playing families would not vacation anywhere else,” insists Ken Thompson, director of The Breakers’ tennis program. “We have fostered and nurtured these relationships to the point that we are now teaching the grandchildren of families we started with 25 years ago.” Where else on holiday will a pro remember that your
AFTER HURRICANE ODILE, GUESTS CREATED A FUND TO HELP EMPLOYEES WHO HAD LOST THEIR HOMES IN THE STORM.
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12-year-old son prefers a two-handed backhand and your daughter is a lefty with a wicked serve? More than any other demographic, affluent families treasure resorts that offer something expected for every age bracket. “Because we are a fully private island, parents take solace in the fact that their children can run or bike as far as their hearts’ desire without ever leaving the safe confines of the resort,” says Pascal Mongeau, the general manager at Parrot Cay in Turks and Caicos. “Families that return year after year have their routine down—as soon as they hit the sand the kids are off kayaking in the mangroves, going on pirate scavenger hunts with the staff or collecting conch shells on the beach.” Many children plant their own coconut or banana tree and make their first stop the plantation to see how much it’s grown. Annual guest Steven Novick of New Canaan, Connecticut, agrees: “Over the
years, the staff has come to feel like our extended family. I know every time we come here we’re making lasting memories that will stay with the kids long after they’ve grown.” Mr. Novick’s dream is to eventually purchase a piece of the island and retire to Parrot Cay. Standing annual reservations are as common at Stein Eriksen in Utah as they are at The Resort at Pedregal in Cabo San Lucas, where around 20 percent of Christmas-week guests have been coming back for five or more years. At the latter, yearly returnees genuinely view the resort as a home away from home: After Hurricane Odile last year, repeat guests created a fund to help employees who had lost their real homes in the storm. The most loyal guests, a family of four that has stayed at Pedregal 38 times, arrived on re-opening day, determined to be the first through the tunnel to their treasured retreat. The staff even made the mother a uniform so she could hang out at the concierge desk with her adopted holiday family. You don’t get that kind of just-oneof-us service at a hot new resort in Ibiza or Bali. Like his fellow annual travelers, Sadler Ramsdell will know exactly what to expect when he goes back to Curtain Bluff, on the Caribbean island of Antigua, for the 25th time this winter. “I have heard it called the resort of 1,000 hugs, since when you arrive you hug all of your returning friends and of course the excellent staff,” the Pennington, New Jersey, resident says. He and his wife invited couples they met at the upscale all-inclusive resort to their daughter’s recent wedding; this fall the Ramsdells are witnessing the union of another friend they met on holiday at Curtain Bluff. Going back year after year is almost like a reunion. “We and our children have made lifelong friends there,” Ramsdell says. With any luck, those kids will bring their kids, and three generations of Ramsdells will be basking in the thrill of familiarity every year, for decades to come. ■
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TRADE SECRETS
Make the most of your next longhaul flight by taking advantage of the all-powerful stopover, an oftoverlooked travel trick that treats jet-setters to two vacations in one
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STAY The historic, Art Deco–inspired Hotel Borg is located smack dab in the center of the city and is widely considered an Icelandic landmark.
STAY The sprawling Jumeirah at Etihad Towers boasts a private white-sand beach and skyhigh views of the Arabian Gulf.
DO No trip to Reykjavik is complete without a stop at the Blue Lagoon. Beat the crowds by paying extra for access to the Exclusive Lounge.
EAT Experience an authentic Middle Eastern feast at BBQ Al Qasr, a seaside restaurant serving up grilled meats and fresh-baked bread.
FLY On Icelandair, travelers from North America en route to or from select European cities can spend up to a week in Reykjavik at no additional cost.
“I am a nomad. I rarely sleep in the same bed more than three or four nights. And I know hotel life better than anyone.”—Diane von Furstenberg
FLY Beyond its extravagant first-class “residences,” Etihad Airways is known for its flexible stopover rules. Flying to the Seychelles from New York? Break up the trip by spending a few days in Abu Dhabi along the way. —LINDSAY SILBERMAN
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omewhere outside Sequoia National Park— and somewhere inside a yurt—a group of more than 50 turban-adorned women, clad in all white, are laughing uncontrollably. One of them is kicking drugs. Another is reeling from the dissolution of her 25-year marriage. Two are pregnant. And then there’s the famous face in the sea of sheepskin mats, along for the ride on this bunk-bed-filled retreat—until she departs abruptly the next day after being outed as an A-lister. Overseeing the giggling exercise from atop a perch on a lifted stage built specially for the occasion is their spiritual guide, Guru Jagat. The 36-year-old Los Angeles–based Kundalini master is here as part of just one of several stops on her six-month, sold-out, all-female “Immense Grace” program, offering guidance on matters that span from sex, money and career to body image and aging gracefully— for just $2,900 per person. Welcome to the booming business of spirituality and wellness, an industry set to rake in beaucoup bucks this year, and especially so in Los Angeles, where more than ever people are spending less on material goods like watches and clothes in favor of more “meaningful” experiences and products. “They view it as a 360 approach to having a better life,” says Milton Pedraza, CEO of The Luxury Institute. Seeded amid the rarefied beachside air of Los Angeles’ Westside, a new breed of female entrepreneurs has emerged to cater to this discerning, beauty-from-the-inside-out consumer, a spiritual sorority that has launched everything from juiceries to yoga studios to organic skin-care lines, all within close proximity of one another. They are the new and improved L.A. ladies who lunch, uniquely positioned to leverage their locally sourced, all-organic lifestyles into not just profits, but a form of status and air of superiority over their loungeabout contemporaries. With Gwyneth Paltrow as their de facto inspiration, many of these women are financially independent moms who choose to work, compelled to espouse their good-for-you secrets to glowy skin, shiny hair, weight loss and—ultimately—happiness to an ever-eager-to-ape audience. “Any time a woman finds something that helps her, she’s wired to want to share and help others,” says Guru Jagat, whose teachings have served as a sort of post-grad course in spiritual entrepreneurship to women throughout Los Angeles. “That’s why it’s a good thing for women to take over running the free world.” Naturally, entry into this sisterhood does not come easy. It requires an all-consuming devotion to the lifestyle, with work as a mere extension. Any signs of charlatanism are cause for immediate expulsion, or at least some really nasty gossip. For example: “My ex-husband’s girlfriend founded one of the first juice companies that really went big, and she was a New York partier drinking every night,” snipes Guru Jagat. “The New York spiritual mafia is very tenuous as best. Behind closed doors, that’s not what’s going on and you can feel it.” The L.A. crew, on the other hand, “walk the walk
Well, Good and Filthy Rich
The empowered, enlightened and entirely booming business of spiritual entrepreneurship that’s taking over L.A. Written by Jenny Sundel Photographed by Elizabeth Weinberg and talk the talk,” she insists. And they pull strings to help one another succeed. “It’s only a denaturement that women catfight and are competitive and weird,” insists Guru Jagat, who declines to reveal her birth name; the “guru” moniker was given to her by a teacher some 10 years ago, back when she was just a “nice Jewish girl” from West Virginia. “That is such heavy programming that successful women should be at each other’s throats. That’s not how real successful women roll.” In fact, although Guru Jagat now serves as a mentor to many in L.A.’s spiritual-wellness entrepreneurial
Who’s Your Guru? Guru Jagat in her RA MA Institute for Applied Yogic Science and Technology in Venice.
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BODY community, it was her best friend, Amanda Chantal Bacon, the Goop-endorsed founder of the wildly popular Moon Juice shop and line of products, who first set her on her path to profit. “I was a huge fan and supporter and really egged Guru Jagat on to open RA MA,” the “Institute for Applied Yogic Science and Technology” that Guru Jagat introduced in Venice in 2013, says Bacon, a former fine-dining chef and single mother of one who sells feel-good concoctions and “all“I WOULD DESCRIBE natural enhancements” like Moon MYSELF AS A Dust—powdered supplements for MISSIONARY,” SAYS better brain power, love and even sex (now also available at Urban BACON. “THIS Outfitters)—for $55 to $65 per jar. IS MY OFFER TO Since Moon Juice debuted in THE WORLD.” 2012, Bacon, and her highly soughtafter glowing, poreless skin, have become Internet famous, yielding many job applications. “This whole wave of ‘It’s cool to work in wellness’—I can totally attest to that,” she says. “When you decide you want to quit your job in fashion, beauty or, like, editorial, the first stop is Moon Juice.” She adds of the appeal, “It’s certainly an industry that is run by women and run around this notion of wellness, balance and happiness, and part of that is the feminine gets to be the feminine.” Her 38.7kstrong Instagram following devours photos of her daily menu—like a recent post of toast topped with ghee, rose Spiritual Gangsters From left: Wellness petal preserves and bee pollen—which she says “save lives,” entrepreneurs including her own. “I would really describe myself as a Amanda Chantal missionary,” she says. “I work seven days a week. I don’t Bacon, the creator of Moon Juice, and get tired of it. This is my offer to the world.” Although she Shiva Rose, who declines to reveal Moon Juice’s financial figures, she has founded an eponyleveraged the aspirational fan-love of her esoteric lifestyle mous line of organic skin-care products. and exotic eats into a full-blown business, with a two-book
deal and an East Coast outpost of her juicery in the works. And now she wants to see her friends succeed. Neither woman feels conflicted about capitalizing on spirituality—or the relative misfortunes of others—to earn a living. “I have made incredible personal sacrifices on many, many different levels, from relationships to having a baby at a more appropriate time in my life to not making a penny for years on end and putting all of my money into making sure there are places on this planet where people can come and heal,” says Guru Jagat, who, now that she runs a multimillion-dollar business, admits to indulgences like twice-daily cappuccinos and designer shopping binges. “I feel very clean about money, and it doesn’t feel like any kind of discordance. In fact, it feels like a very good thing because for me to do my job, I shouldn’t have to worry about paying my bills.” She says of the wellness boom, “I think it’s a trend of the next 5,000 years. It’s going to trickle down and people are going to buy Amanda’s juice and my book when it gets into Walmart!” Her capitalist attitude, decidedly uncommon among most referred to as “guru,” has inspired and empowered students to pursue their own moneymaking wellness ventures, like Madeline Giles, who now offers at-home Angelic Breath Healing classes for $200; Carly de Castro, whose Pressed Juicery has more than 60 locations; and Shiva Rose, who launched her own organic, locally sourced skin-care line after taking private sessions with Guru Jagat following her split from actor Dylan McDermott. “She’s like the ‘girlfriend’s guru,’ ” says Rose, who is 46. “I was feeling lost. I wanted a community. For me, I think it was a yearning for something deeper and more complete.” Rose says her own entrepreneurial aha moment came during one of her sessions with Guru Jagat. “I saw the vision for [my company] and the image of the line,” she says. Now, she shills her signature rose face oil for $85 a bottle in highend boutiques and on her website. “The three of us, we’re really intertwined,” says Bacon. “We’ve all supported each other deeply. We couldn’t have done it without each other in so many different ways.” Inside the yurt, more sisterly bonds are forming. For the first time all weekend, the women have traded their white leggings for flowy ceremonial dresses. One by one, they place onto an altar items that represent their goals and dreams, ranging from a plum to a sonogram of an unborn child. The women perform dances of gratitude for one another during the closing ceremony as their Rick Owens–clad leader smiles contentedly. “Sat nam,” they chant together at the end of the night as they usher in the new moon with their freshly penned list of intentions. “Sat nam.” And then they all set their alarms for 4 a.m., take the recommended cold shower and start all over again. ■
The Integratron, a tabernacle and energy machine in the Mojave Desert, is a mecca for spiritual pilgrims, who swear by its $300 private sound baths.
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Cinch Me, I Must Be Dreaming: What was the point of feminism if not to rid women of Scarlett O’Hara–era body rituals?
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was first introduced to the concept of what’s known today as waist training when I was 12, via a well-worn copy of Gone with the Wind that I’d found on my grandmother’s bookshelf. The novel begins with a rapturous description of its 16-yearold protagonist, who has pale green eyes, thick black brows and, we’re told, a “17-inch waist, the smallest in three counties.” I immediately tracked down a tape measure to check my own dimensions, and, as I’d suspected, they didn’t quite conform to the antebellum ideal—my midsection was a comparatively bloated 26 inches, which meant that I was bigger than not only Scarlett but also her less-attractive sister Suellen (who, Margaret Mitchell writes, would faint whenever her stays were laced tighter than twenty inches), as well as God knows how many other terrible, fictional teenage girls in those three Georgia counties. Nevertheless, I soon managed to put it out of my mind— after all, what is adolescence other than a time to discover and catalog the many, many ways in which one is doomed to fall short of physical perfection? But I thought of it again this past June, when I was forced to repeat the ritual. My editor had asked if I’d be willing to give waist training a try, and with a mixture of morbid curiosity and sincere optimism, I’d agreed. In recent years, corset-wearing has gone from being a weird hobby practiced by the kind of woman who might willingly enter into a sexual relationship with Marilyn Manson to a relatively mainstream weight-loss strategy, touted by everyone from Amber Rose to the sisters Kardashian, and I was intrigued. Furthermore, I was six months postpartum, and I figured if it was good enough for Jessica Alba—who admitted that she’d worn “a double
corset day and night for three months” after the birth of her second child to get her body back—then it was surely good enough for me. But when the shapers arrived, I quickly realized that there was precisely zero chance of me following in Alba’s footsteps. For one thing, although they technically “fit,” I experienced a feeling of genuine panic before I’d fastened even half of the hook-and-eye closures. I put the trainers aside and called a few experts instead. Camilla Lee, a nutritionist in Brooklyn, warned me straight up that waist training probably wasn’t going to work. “The only way it could possibly lead to weight loss would be by putting pressure on your stomach, resulting in a feeling of fullness that might deter eating,” she explained. “But to get this effect, you’d have to wear it frequently enough to risk damaging your internal organs,” as well as, in the nearer term, acid reflux. Dr. Andrew Miller, a plastic surgeon with offices in New York and New Jersey, pretty much agreed, adding that prolonged use of an improperly fitted corset could cause a lung condition called atelectasis which, in turn, can lead to pneumonia. “And it’s not going to change your appearance permanently,” he said. (Guess what he suggests instead?) I suppose that my silhouette was slightly improved by the corset. Though it barely made me half an inch smaller, even while I was wearing it, it did force me to stand up straighter and it kept all of my flab neatly corralled into a firm hourglass, rather than flopping around as it usually does. But I didn’t relish feeling like an overstuffed sausage. In the end, I decided to regard it as a particularly heavy-duty piece of shapewear, something to possibly bust out the next time I have to put on a cocktail dress. Though I probably won’t; a constant physical reminder that my body is not totally acceptable to society as-is simply does not seem like the kind of thing I want to bring to a party! (Yes, that’s how Scarlett O’Hara used hers, but—on many levels—she’s not much of a role model.) Interestingly, though, as I write this, some nine months after delivering my daughter and despite my malingering, I am back at my pre-pregnancy weight, down approximately ten pounds since the day I ordered the waist trainer. Which means one of two things: Either it’s so magical that simply having it in the house is effective, or more likely, that the other things women are encouraged to do while wearing it—including exercising, eating right and, in the case of those recovering from birth, simply letting time pass—deserve most of the credit. ■
Want Not
Jessica Alba says yes. So do the Kardashians. But do waist trainers really work? Written by Lauren Waterman In Gone With the Wind, Scarlett O’Hara’s waist measurement—after just giving birth—is 20 inches.
SILVER SCREEN COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES
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Fly Wheels
Go ahead and spend the winter bingeing on HBO Go. Come spring, these beautifully designed bikes will have you eager to get back in the saddle Edited by Lindsay Silberman
WOODY CRUISER
Designed with the minimalist rider in mind, the cruiser is crafted using three basic materials: wood, leather and rubber. Each bike is hand-sculpted and built with sustainable wood in Denver, Colorado. Woody Cruiser, $3,500, CONNOR WOOD BICYCLES,
The Arvak—named after a Norse mythological horse—is a freak of nature. Literally. Its frame, made from ash wood, is completely hollow, giving cyclists an ultra-lightweight and fluid riding experience. Arvak, $8,525, KEIM, keim-edition.com
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ARVAK
THE RUNWELL In 2013, New York–based frame builder Thomas Callahan turned to Kickstarter in hopes of raising funds for a line of made-in-Brooklyn bikes. The result? Urban Tour, an all-rounder ideal for touring, city riding and everything in between. Urban Tour, $1,400, HORSE CYCLES, horsebrand.co
Inspired by France, made in Detroit. Michigan-based Shinola modeled its 11-speed city bike after the Porteur— a classic style used by newspaper couriers, butchers and bakers during the ’40s and ’50s in Paris. The Runwell, $2,950, SHINOLA, shinola.com
THE VICIOUS CYCLE
South Africa’s most renowned frame builder came out of retirement to create a work of art on two wheels. The limited-edition bike features copper detailing and a glossy lacquer finish. The Vicious Cycle, $4,800, DUTCHMANN, dutchmann.co.za
According to the New York City Bike-Share Report, Citi Bike riders took 1,289,709 trips and traveled a total of 2,495,965 miles in September 2015 alone.
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URBAN TOUR
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Legal Speed The 1.5-mile track at Lime Rock Park in Lakeville, Connecticut.
he speedometer on a 2015 Porsche 911 reaches 200 mph—225 on the Turbo—but the fastest speed limit in the country, along a 40-mile stretch of Texas highway, is 85. Now, I’m not a lawyer, but I’d claim entrapment, or at least cruel taunting, in Porsche’s insistence on placing a constant reminder, right there under drivers’ noses, of the car’s 115 mphplus worth of unused horsepower. I wouldn’t employ this line of reasoning to argue your way out of a speeding ticket, of course. I would, however, encourage anyone itching to bury the speedometer needle well to the right of the legal limit to take his or her highperformance car to the track—because doing so is easier than ever. In the past decade, a handful of private, membersonly driving facilities have sprung up around the U.S.— high-speed, high-price country clubs catering to the fastlane set bored by traditional patrician pastimes like tennis and golf. Recent constructions like The Thermal Club in Southern California, Monticello Motor Club 90 minutes
Making Tracks Thrill-seeking sports-car enthusiasts are giving membersonly racing clubs a spin Written by Paul Biedrzycki
north of New York City and the Autobahn Country Club outside of Chicago aren’t just windy stretches of asphalt sans speed limit. They’re upscale, gated communities with luxury villas, garage mahals, clubhouses and restaurants, as well as high-level driving-instruction programs and mechanical support. Making these clubs especially viable is the increasing off-the-shelf track readiness of many modern performance cars, including the 911, BMW M and Mercedes AMG models. “Today’s cars are really track-worthy,” says Thermal Club track manager Jeff Rodrigues. “Before they would say ‘yes, you can be on the race track,’ but the truth of the matter was that they could only hold up for five laps. But today, the cars are phenomenal.” Though some members end up progressing into competitive racing both within their clubs and through organizations like the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA), many are in it simply to experience the sensation of high speeds, with the added potential of improving mental acuity and focus. As Rodrigues says, “I like to think of track driving as high-speed chess.” There’s also a marked interest in the sort of built-in community that racing clubs can provide. Although one could previously get a taste for track driving at racing schools and track days, racing clubs serve to enhance the social aspects of the sport—camaraderie that helps to turn casual interest into lifelong passion. “It’s the best of both worlds” of hobby racing, says sociologist Robert White, PhD, founding director of Indiana University’s Motorsports Studies program. “As the single lone driver, you’re taking yourself to your personal limits, but at the same time having a club to share it with.” White’s colleague Andrew Baker, PhD, the program’s current director, points out that club members often span generations, since racing appeals to both those who grew up in the prevalent car culture of the ’60s and ’70s as well as to their children, who grew up playing racing video games. In this way, many clubs have become a point of convergence, a place for families to bond. Clubs, in turn, start drivers young: Many, such as Monticello and Autobahn, offer karting programs and teen-driver training. Clubs also run frequent group trips to other tracks, such as Daytona or the Nürburgring in Germany. And yet, despite the impressive array of amenities, racing clubs also face a substantial challenge in creating a sustaining culture that can outlive the initial thrill and adrenaline rush of those first laps. Even Rodrigues admits that “these facilities have typically been known for their spectacular failures rather than their successes,” and that they face a “longevity hurdle.” In an attempt to mitigate members’ concerns over this, Thermal recently established a long-term partnership with BMW, allocating a 32-acre plot of land beside the club for the automaker’s “Performance Center West,” where the company offers performance-driving programs.
During a 2007 interview with Barbara Walters, Paul Newman drove her around the Lime Rock track at a top speed of 150 mph.
DW BURNETT
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PLAY A valuable model for these upstarts to emulate may be the nearly 60-year-old Lime Rock Park, nestled in the rolling hills of northwest Connecticut, a driver-centric purist’s haven that embodies everything that these clubs, if they want to survive, need to be. At first glance, the circuit reads as a gentle 1.5-mile course that meanders through the Connecticut countryside, like many of the roads in the MANY CLUBS HAVE just region, which was the intention of BECOME A POINT track developer Jim Vaill. But a few OF GENERATIONAL turns in and its frothing character is revealed: The course is one of the CONVERGENCE, A PLACE FOR FAMILIES fastest road circuits in the Northeast, with speeds nearing 100 mph. TO BOND. Fittingly, the people you find there are equally intense, many afflicted with what the track’s patron saint, pioneering driver John Fitch, once referred to as “the virus, the intoxicating and addicting compulsion to race.” At Lime Rock, driver education is paramount—and methodical—led by Simon Kirkby, an incisive Brit who formerly drove rally cars for a living. Kirkby describes his teaching philosophy as “simplify, simplify, simplify.” Whipping the club’s BMW M3 into the track’s first turn, he says, “This track only takes a minute to get around, but a lifetime to master.” The Lime Rock Drivers Club
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was founded by track owner Skip Barber about a decade ago and has under 100 members (men, women and even some teens), as well as a distinctly monastic feel. What it lacks in upscale amenities is made up for in over half a century of tradition: Lime Rock, Paul Newman’s home track, is hallowed ground that has seen the likes of drivers such as Mario Andretti, Sam Posey and Dan Gurney turn countless laps. It’s also hosted professional races like the American Le Mans and Trans-Am Series. “We’re a smaller track; we don’t have three miles. We don’t have fancy new clubhouses. But guess what? We work,” says Stephanie Economu, the first female member of the LRDC, who, at the age of 47—coincidentally the same age Newman started racing—joined the club after getting a new Porsche. She now spends every possible moment at the track. The buy-in to these clubs is steep, of course. At Thermal, after the required villa purchase (they start at around $1 million), members pay $85,000 for a 30-year membership and $19,000 in annual dues. A membership at Lime Rock will cost you $55,000, with $3,600 in annual dues. None, of course, include the cost of the car, gas and tires. Still, members say it’s difficult to put a price on what they’ve found. “My whole life I’ve been looking for that one thing that I’ve been put on this earth to do. I kept checking things off the list,” Economu says. “But when I’m at the track I’m living in the moment. There is really something special here.” ■ DUJOU R .COM 87
PING TRAINING
A breakthrough generation of high-tech athletic gear signals the golden age for smarter performance Elan Amphibio Skis
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Using new design features that optimize ball-spin and speed, the racket also has sensors that track power, impact location and strokes. $350, babolat.us
By wirelessly connecting to an app on your smartphone, the miCoach provides feedback on speed, spin, trajectory and strike point. $200, micoach.adidas.com
Silver fibers running through the fabric measure heart rate, breathing depth, balance and other metrics, which are streamed to your device. $295, ralphlauren.com
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Away from the bright lights of Hollywood, moviemaker Robert Rodriguez has found Texas-size success Written by Chad Swiatecki Photographed by Minta Maria
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The Lone Star System
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hen Robert Mueller Municipal Airport, a 1930s pile about five miles from downtown Austin, shut down in 1999, it was slated to be demolished. But almost two decades later, the decommissioned building—which escaped destruction to become home to filmmaker Robert Rodriguez’s Troublemaker Studios—might be more significant than ever. Sitting on just over 20 acres of land, Troublemaker is a bit like Rodriguez’s personal playground. It’s where the now 47-year-old director filmed Sin City, the 2005 noir thriller that took in over $150 million worldwide, as well his uncharacteristically family-friendly Spy Kids trilogy. The property now serves as headquarters for El Rey, the two-year-old, Rodriguez-helmed cable network currently available in an estimated 40 million American homes. The place isn’t lacking in charm. All around the Troublemaker campus, horror memorabilia is jauntily mixed with Western decor. The walls are festooned with the B-movie-style posters for Rodriguez’s productions, a parking lot is chockablock with the sort of vintage cars that appear in his films and, on a soundstage not far from his office, a Mexican-brothel set from the 1996 film From
Dusk Till Dawn has been faithfully reconstructed, neon lights and all. But while it isn’t appointed quite like any other major film studio, Rodriguez says the singular feeling of his kingdom is precisely what makes it so appealing. “The office looks just like my house, because I don’t ever want to be in an office,” he says, sitting in a room dominated by a wall-size painting from muralist George Yepes. “I edit out of the house, I write out of my house and come up with the scores there. When I would go to a normal office, it felt like having to go to work. Here the line is blurred between work and play.” Some things, of course, are both. That’s the case when Rodriguez picks up one of the guitars laying around the studio and extemporaneously strums along with a scene as he films, or when he commandeers the staff break room to repurpose it as a villain’s lair, or when the hallways are overrun with actresses in bikinis and extras costumed as part of a biker gang. That mix seems to be just what Rodriguez requires. In fact, producing four original series for El Rey’s first year alone would have been impossible for a filmmaker without his own studio, not to mention his own timetable. “When you have an idea, sometimes it comes to you in the middle of the night,” Rodriguez explains. “It doesn’t follow the structure of the typical studio schedule. If a comic book I’ve
“Some folks look at me and see a certain swagger,” George W. Bush said in 2004, “which in Texas is called ‘walking.’ ”
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been reading might make a good film, I want to give it a try right then.” He almost didn’t have that option. After the airport closed to make way for the Texas capital’s newer Austin– Bergstrom International Airport, it took a personal appeal to then governor George W. Bush for Rodriguez to land his lease on the space, a deal he struck due in part to his local roots. “It became possible because I’m from here,” the San Antonio native says. “They were going to mow it down because it was an eyesore but I was like, no, I think we can bring some movies here.” In doing so, Rodriguez helped to make Austin—which hosts the annual South by Southwest Film Festival—an impressive outpost for independent filmmaking that has spawned movies like local director Richard Linklater’s Oscar-nominated Boyhood. “Linklater and I got started at
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“WHEN I WOULD GO TO A NORMAL OFFICE, IT FELT LIKE HAVING TO GO TO WORK. HERE THE LINE IS BLURRED BETWEEN WORK AND PLAY.”
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Hot Rodriguez Above: The From Dusk Till Dawn director in his office. All other images: Robert Rodriguez’s Troublemaker Studios, which occupies a decommissioned airport in Austin and is home to various film projects as well as his El Rey television network.
the same time and built the film community here because we didn’t want to go anywhere else,” Rodriguez says. “We kept training crews and bringing people here so we wouldn’t have to move.” Having a full studio at his disposal— including a massive props room with an entire section devoted to severed body parts—has been artistically satisfying, but it’s also been good for business. While the costs of running a cable network can mount quickly, the director has offset those expenditures by taking on brandedcontent projects using some of the sets and talent from the series he produces. General Motors was an early adopter of El Rey’s branded-content campaigns, and Rodriguez says he’s proud of what he recently captured on camera for a six-minute spot for Happy Socks. Talking about the short, “Sock ’Em Dead,” a vampire-themed mini-thriller featuring actors Madison Davenport and Wilmer Valderrama—stars of the From Dusk Till Dawn TV series—Rodriguez boasts that the infrastructure and size of Troublemaker allowed him to squeeze extra content out of what would normally be idle time between takes. “I’ve always thought that if I was shooting a sci-fi film, when one crew goes home we should use that set for a kids’ film, since it’d look totally different to different audiences,” he says. “We can utilize production to amortize a little bit, and the Happy Socks piece was the first time I’ve gotten to do it.” While El Rey is an English-language channel, it targets Latino audiences, allowing Rodriguez to put his programming in front of that fast-growing demographic. In the end, the work that went into building Troublemaker has allowed Rodriguez’s creativity to reach an audience that is coming into a position of prominence in America. Outside the boss’ office, a statue of the tough-guy Mexican-American actor Danny Trejo, a Rodriguez favorite, underlines his commitment to those viewers. “El Rey seemed like a great endeavor because it would fall in line with what I’ve always done in my movies, which is mainstream entertainment with a Hispanic perspective in front of and behind the camera,” Rodriguez says. “It’s cool when people who are Hispanic say to themselves, ‘Wait, Danny Trejo is the star of a movie? What the hell is going on there?’” ■
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ebbie Dingell is less than a year into her freshman term as the congresswoman for Michigan’s 12th district, but it’s a job for which she has spent nearly her entire life preparing. A onetime General Motors executive and power lobbyist for the automotive industry, Dingell— who drives a red Cadillac—has been married for more than three decades to former Representative John Dingell, a 59-year veteran of Capitol Hill who was of the most powerful and revered members of Congress. After her husband retired, Dingell handily won his seat representing the working-class, heavily Democratic district. During her long apprenticeship, she saw partisanship rise and friendships fray, and now she’s running hard to make her mark as someone who can work across the aisle and fix a broken system. Sitting on the brown, government-issued couch in her office in the Cannon House Building, the 61-year-old Dingell sports a white dress and white heels, her blonde hair pulled back in a ponytail. She takes occasional swigs from a bottle of Diet Coke as we talk. It’s 11 in the morning. “I’m a car girl,” she exclaims when I notice two models on a nearby table. “I’m proud to be a car girl. I didn’t used to be able to say it because people constantly were trying to use it against John.” But Congress has changed, and though Dingell comes to the House with a portfolio of her own accomplishments and connections, she’s still got a lot to prove. The issues Dingell is prioritizing relate to aging, women’s health and domestic violence. Her first bill in Congress would have Medicare cover hearing aids, and her second, introduced in July and co-sponsored with Illinois Republican Robert Dold, aims to close the so-called “boyfriend loophole” that allows convicted abusers to obtain guns. “John probably wishes I wasn’t making this my issue,” Dingell confesses. After all, her husband is a hunter and a sportsman, and a former board member of the National Rifle Association. But Dingell comes at the subject from a different perspective, having grown up with a father who threatened the family with a firearm. She never spoke of it publicly until
In the Driver’s Seat Representative Dingell in her Washington, D.C., office.
Debbie Takes the Wheel
Congresswoman Debbie Dingell may have left behind the auto industry, but she certainly hasn’t lost her drive Written by Eleanor Clift Photographed by Jared Soares
the Sandy Hook massacre prompted her to publish an op-ed in the Washington Post, which described the “raw terror” she and her siblings felt around their father. It was a bold move, but made clear that Dingell put more stock in principles than she did in politics. DINGELL IS PERPETUALLY IN MOTION. She’s always thinking about what she did last or what she will do next, and it’s hard to come up with a good cause she hasn’t embraced or raised money for. “Debbie does a lot of good and she works her ass off,” says Washington lawyer Paul Equale, a friend of hers. “She’s not happy unless she’s making a difference.” That seems to be true in and out of the public eye. After former Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi tangled with John Dingell in 2008, resulting in his ouster from the House Energy and Commerce Committee, there were some bruised feelings. And when Debbie Dingell came to Congress, “people wanted to pit me and Nancy Pelosi against each other,” she says. That wasn’t going to fly. At an event for the Democratic Congressional Campaign Committee, Dingell and Pelosi did their best to dispel any
Congresswoman Dingell’s most tabloid-friendly battle took place in early 2015, when she took to Twitter to call out Madonna for bad-mouthing Michigan.
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WORK leave”—Dingell stuck with GM, becoming a senior executive responsible for public affairs, and later, president of the General Motors Foundation. The jobs made her one of the most plugged-in and sought-after people in Washington, but they didn’t turn her into a partisan. When the Clintons came to the White House and party lines became trenches, Dingell partnered with Marlene Malek, the wife of a prominent Republican, to host a “girlfriends” lunch. Now an annual affair, the guest list has grown from 40 people to nearly 600. “One of my rules is I don’t drop people,” Dingell says. “The thing I hate about this town is when you’re in, you’re in—and the minute you’re out, you’re out. In my world, if you’re my friend, you’re my friend. It’s not based on what job you have.” After Republican Scott Brown lost his senate seat to Elizabeth Warren in 2012, Brown’s wife didn’t think she was invited anymore; she stayed on the list. Another Dingell rule: Tell it like it is. “I can’t stand political speak,” she says. On Facebook, she does her own posting. “I tell people if they want to get the roads fixed, they need to tell their legislators to get some balls,” she says. Does this give her staff heartburn? “Decidedly.” Despite whatever waves it might create, Dingell prides herself on being blunt—she’s up front about her opinions, her motives and what she wants for the constituents in her district. “The American people,” she says, “are tired of people talking out of both sides of their mouths.” ■
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leftover ill will. “We both got up and talked about women supporting each other,” Dingell says. “Nancy mentored me when I came in, but I’m tired of mean girls. Even at my age, it still happens and they still can make you cry.” She won’t name names, but it’s clear Dingell has strong feelings about the feminist revolution she has lived through and benefited from. “Everybody always wondered what I wanted,” she says, reflecting on her career in the “I’M TIRED OF MEAN auto industry, “and I really envisioned myself being a senior GIRLS. EVEN AT MY AGE, IT STILL HAPPENS executive at General Motors.” that aspiration wasn’t easy, AND THEY STILL CAN But even for the granddaughter of MAKE YOU CRY.” one of the company’s founders. “When I went for a job interview, I was asked, ‘Why would a woman want to work at GM?’ In those early years, I experienced discrimination in many ways. I believe in women supporting women, but I am where I am because men supported me too. Too often women think if another woman succeeds, it hurts them. And that’s just wrong.” Despite what she calls “serious” sexual harassment from a supervisor in the 1970s—“It was awful,” she says, “and when I asked for help, I was told to put up with it or
WORK OF ART
Among Instagram’s abundant selfies, poolside pics and cocktail portraits, few images stand out like an enviable office shot. Here, a roundup of workspace eye-candy—from a West Coast tech headquarters to a West Village writer’s den
Before designing @airbnb’s new San Francisco HQ, a team from Gensler spent four months in the company’s former office to understand its needs. The airy result embodies “openness, collaboration and constant enterprise.”
Eyewear company @warbyparker’s corporate offices in New York City’s SoHo neighborhood have books just about everywhere, with at least 100 different places for employees and visitors to sit and read one of them.
“I set up a sort of temporary workspace on the table in front of the bookshelves,” says @davidrcoggins, a travel-and-style writer, of the makeshift desk in his cozy home office. “Then it feels like I can stop at any time.”
A room where @chandeliercreative employees brainstorm in the agency’s penthouse office, this space, with its Le Corbusier chairs, is for “coffee in the morning and vodka sodas after 6 p.m.,” says founder Richard Christiansen.
Instagram CEO Kevin Systrom recently shared a picture of his company’s first offices: a top-floor apartment in San Francisco’s Cole Valley neighborhood.
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“THE WONDER THAT IS ‘GRANDMA’ CAN BE SUMMED UP IN TWO WORDS: LILY TOMLIN.”
“A POWERFUL MOVIE. A REMARKABLE FEATURE FILMMAKING DEBUT.” -Michael Phillips, CHICAGO TRIBUNE
-A.O. Scott, THE NEW YORK TIMES
BEST ACTRESS NOMINEE
G OT H A M AWA R D S
WINNER GRAND PRIX
CANNES
BEST ACTRESS BEST SUPPORTING ACTOR L ILY T OMLIN S AM E LLIOTT BEST ORIGINAL SCREENPLAY P AUL W EITZ
GRANDMA
“A REAL GEM. JAMES VANDERBILT MAKES AN IMPRESSIVE DIRECTING DEBUT. CATE BLANCHETT IS OUTSTANDING AS A WOMAN WHO’S SMART, GUTSY AND VULNERABLE. ROBERT REDFORD IS EXCELLENT, ONE ICON PLAYING ANOTHER.”
FILM FESTIVAL
IN ALL CATEGORIES INCLUDING
BEST PICTURE
SON OF SAUL “MAGGIE SMITH IS SPECTACULAR. THE KIND OF TOTAL DELIGHT SO RARE IN MOVIES TODAY.” -Rex Reed, NEW YORK OBSERVER
-Tim Gray, VARIETY
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BEST ACTRESS
Cate Blanchett
IN LADYTHE VAN
BEST SUPPORTING ACTOR
Robert Redford
BEST ADAPTED SCREENPLAY
James Vanderbilt
Truth
BEST ACTRESS Maggie Smith
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WORK the incident. “Then he jumped back into the van and drove away.” Lipman never bothered to file a police report: The notion that someone might be out to get him did not exactly come as a shock. His agency owed a lot of people a lot of money, and they weren’t just angry—they were out for blood. It’s been two years since the Lipman agency shuttered seemingly overnight, leaving stunned employees without jobs, A-list clients like David Yurman and Stuart Weitzman with unfinished campaigns and top talent—including Kate Moss and photographer Mario Testino—with millions in owed money. People said Lipman would never work again and there was a time when Lipman himself might have agreed. Now, though, he’s fighting to make a comeback. ONE COULD ARGUE that Lipman was born to be an ad man. His
An Ad Man’s Return to Market
grandfather, Herb Lipman, founded the Lipman agency in 1927 before passing the company on to David’s father, Robert, in the late 1940s. Lipman spent most of his twenties working for the global advertising agency Bozell & Jacobs, but later decided to join his family’s more modest firm, which was then creating campaigns for resorts in the Catskills. “That world died in front of us,” says Lipman. But he was less defeated than motivated. He set out to save the family name, though the way he tells it, there was no strategy or plan—“it just happened.” Soon, the Lipman agency was working with talent like Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista—then up-and-coming models—on ads that garnered quick attention. Former Burberry chairman Victor Barnett was so impressed by Lipman after a brief phone call that he hired him 24 hours later; the brand became Lipman’s first international client. Over the next 15 years, he turned his father’s humble agency into one with luxury accounts and international cache—replacing run-down hotels with Harry Winston, Yonkers Raceway with Mercedes. From the late ’90s to the early 2000s, the Lipman agency was considered a major player in the luxury-advertising landscape, and Lipman the creative force that every brand wanted. He was shooting campaigns with Angelina Jolie for St. John, directing Smartwater ads with Jennifer Aniston and was even hired as a creative director on Justin Timberlake’s debut solo album, Justified. Images from these projects, among others, now cover the walls of his East Village townhouse. “The first time I saw what he was doing I was blown away,” says Tommy Hilfiger, who met Lipman in the early aughts and eventually hired him for several campaigns. “He chooses the right photographs, the right lighting, the right setting, the right models. David is incredible at doing sexy, sensuous and eccentric advertising.” Another early client, jeweler David Yurman, hired Lipman in 2000 just as the brand was taking off. “We needed somebody with an eclectic, emotional point of view,” says co-founder Sybil Yurman. “[His ads] represented an emotion and a tone and a resonance that gave you the feeling of who we were. It accomplished everything I was hoping for.” But when the economy took a turn for the worse in 2008, the Lipman agency started to struggle financially. Through a friend, he was introduced to Andrew Spellman, a former Goldman Sachs executive, and enlisted him to handle the books. Spellman became CEO and the Lipman agency began operating under Spellman’s holding company, Revolate, with operations overseen by a sevenperson board. “I willingly gave it away with a smile on my face. I said, ‘Let me have creative control. You have business control,’” explains Lipman, who handed over to Spellman and other investors a 68 percent stake in the company, keeping 32 percent for himself. That first year, he says, “was glorious. We went back to doing business the way we were doing it pre-recession.” The company began to expand at a rapid-fire pace, opening a digital agency,
When renowned advertising firm the Lipman agency went bankrupt, it left an entire industry wondering what went wrong. Now founder David Lipman faces the biggest rebranding project of his career: himself Written by Lindsay Silberman Photographed by Sante D’Orazio
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n Friday, September 25, 2013, the day after his namesake advertising agency abruptly filed for bankruptcy, David Lipman returned to the company’s 22,000square-foot headquarters in New York’s Meatpacking District to sort out paperwork with his accountants. As Lipman tells it, he was exiting the office when a white van pulled up in front of the building. A man— whom Lipman says he did not recognize—sprang from the passenger’s seat holding a two-by-four. He proceeded to clock Lipman over the head with the piece of wood. “I went down, and he started kicking me and calling me names,” recalls Lipman, who bears a large scar across his right cheek from
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according to Lipman’s attorney, Jeffrey Rich, the bankruptcy trustee is currently in the process of collecting the estate’s assets. That pool will be distributed to a laundry list of creditors, of which there are
St. John shot by Mario Testino; Lipman served as creative director for Justin Timberlake’s debut solo album; the agency created edgy campaigns for Equinox from 2003–5.
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TWO YEARS HAVE PASSED since the agency went under, and
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a celebrity-partnership company and a private-equity division—though nearly 400, according to the Chapter 7 filing, and Rich says that none, says Lipman, were bringing in revenue. Instead, the new depart- number will likely continue to grow. Lipman admits he’s not sure how ments were draining the company of cash, with money that didn’t exist things will pan out: who will get paid, how the assets will be distributed going toward pricey hires and rent. Lipman didn’t necessarily object. and what lawsuits might be filed. What is clear, though, is that there “I think we all sort of got drunk with the idea that it was easy,” he will never be enough money for everyone to get back what they lost. says. “And nothing is easy.” Still, he has never been more focused on moving forward. “I blame As time went on, though, Lipman grew worried that the brand he’d myself,” he says. “It was absolutely heartbreaking. But I’m ready worked so hard to build was in real trouble. His employees were to start a new chapter of my life.” He recently launched a consultancy receiving calls from agents, angry that their clients weren’t getting paid. company called Creative Brand Craftsmanship and has a team of six “It was a huge mistake,” he says of giving up control. “Catastrophic. employees working out of his East Village home. It’s not the Lipman And when I realized that I wanted it back, it was too late. Nobody was agency 2.0: Rather than acting as a full-service firm, Lipman serves listening to me.” He couldn’t have afforded to buy it back anyway. as a creative consultant to clients like Extell, as well as to European In mid-September 2013, Lipman was at his son’s baseball game when fashion brands Cerruti, Gieves & Hawkes and Kent & Curwen. The he received an emergency phone call from the board. They were going biggest difference is that the only cash that funnels through CBC is to file for bankruptcy, imminently. Lipman says he lobbied to hold off: money to be paid to Lipman and his employees. “I don’t want 20 It was the middle of campaign season, and filing for bankruptcy would clients or 60 clients,” he says. “I want a dozen clients that I can work leave his clients with half-finished ads for their spring collections. There with intimately.” He’s also attempting—at least in a small way— was enough cash flow to operate until December, Lipman argued, but to repay the hairdressers, makeup artists, stylists and photographers the board, he says, decided to go through with the bankruptcy anyway. who got stiffed by hiring them for jobs whenever he can. (Calls to Spellman’s attorney and several board members went unreAnd despite his past, clients—current and former—see no reason turned. The attorney representing former Revolate president Michael he can’t pull it off; that even his determination to return speaks to Mendenhall said in an e-mail that his client declined to comment.) the sort of risk-taking drive that makes good ad men great. “To see Within a week, the office was closed and 60 employees were left someone who had such a strong career be humbled enough to stand scrambling to find new jobs. According to court documents, the agenup, dust off and go back out there,” says Lee Soik, “that speaks cy’s debts totaled $9 million at the time of the filing. Harry Winston volumes about who David is.” ■ was one of several companies that filed suit around that time, alleging that the Lipman agency and Revolate “intentionally and knowingly duped Harry Winston International into making advance payments for media buys” and, in turn, used that money to fund unrelated Revolate interests. The suit was ultimately put on hold when the agency filed for bankruptcy. Lipman’s friend and former employee Hunter Lee Soik “THAT WAS THE called to check in on him after hearing the news. “I just said, MOMENT I KNEW ‘Hey man is everything okay?’ He was pretty quiet about WERE THINGS it. He didn’t say too much,” recalls Lee Soik. “That was the moment I knew things were really starting to unravel.” REALLY STARTING In the weeks that followed, Lipman holed up in his apartTO UNRAVEL.” ment while reporters lurked outside his front door. He contemplated taking his own life. “I understand now why people commit suicide,” he says. But Lipman was never the sort of man to stay defeated— he loved the work too much to give it up. He accepted the first consulting job that was offered to him, and it wasn’t long, he says, until former clients started calling again. He began working out of a friend’s office space, consulting for brands like 7 For All Mankind, Caesars Las Vegas and HBC, the parent company of Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay. HBC executive chairman Richard Baker, who had worked with Lipman on a number of rebranding projects before, says he had “absolutely no” hesitation about his decision to hire Lipman again. Says Baker, “I don’t know the details of what happened to his firm, but I do know that talent is rare… and he has talent.” Another client, luxury real estate developer Extell, was equally unconcerned about the agency’s headline-making collapse. “We still felt that he was a creative genius… and we were very confident in what he could help us create,” says Tamar Rothenberg, Extell’s vice president of marketing. “If the Making a Statement Clockwise ideas are unique and groundbreaking, then I think they always from top: Lipman’s final work for will be. David will always have his talent.” Stuart Weitzman; a 2007 ad for
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The Chipping Norton Reset Could Britain’s most notorious clique be staging a comeback? Written by Joe Pompeo
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t’s hard to describe how good it feels to be home.” That’s what Rebekah Brooks wrote to her staff in September when she returned to her old job running News Corp’s U.K. media operation. If roaming the halls of the company’s 17-story command center near London Bridge station was indeed a homecoming for Brooks, the newspaper dynamo who had so spectacularly flamed out four years earlier, she was returning to a place that was very different from the one she had left behind—and a world away from Chipping Norton, the Cotswolds destination that had become grudgingly intertwined with her woes. In the countryside around the bucolic market town, prior to her downfall and resurrection, Brooks and her famous friends with homes in the area were making waves as an exclusive social faction that laid bare the nexus of political and media clout among the U.K.’s power elite. Their opulent
Brit Storm From left: Rupert Murdoch, Matthew Freud, Elisabeth Murdoch, David Cameron, Samantha Cameron, Rebekah Brooks and Jeremy Clarkson.
gatherings made for a Gatsby-esque moment in British society, whereby executives from the country’s most prominent news publisher might be clinking champagne flutes with the prime minister, who may in turn be highfiving an international public-relations guru or trading gossip with a television personality or a pop star. That all changed in the summer of 2011, when Brooks and her old flame Andy Coulson—Prime Minister David Cameron’s former communications director—found themselves at the center of a scandal involving phonehacking and other illicit activity at News of the World, a News Corp tabloid, where both had served as editor and over which Brooks still presided as chief executive of News Corp’s U.K. newspaper unit. The scandal made villains out of rogue newspapermen and upended the global media empire of News Corp chairman, Rupert Murdoch, whose company became the object of international scorn. Brooks and Coulson were among dozens arrested and tried, casting a pall over the whole of the once-illustrious Chipping Norton set, as the group had come to be known, and turning them into a punch line about powerful people run amok. (Unlike Coulson, Brooks was cleared.) At the time, Brooks and her husband, Charlie, jokingly referred to themselves as “The Chipping Norton Upset.” British journalist Peter Oborne was less charitable. Writing in the Telegraph in 2011, four days after an all-nighter that would go down as the Chipping Norton crowd’s last big hurrah (it was held at the newly renovated, 22-bedroom country house of Matthew Freud and Elisabeth Murdoch), and just one day after reports of phone hacking went viral with the revelation that one of the targets was a murdered
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WORK If there’s a theme here about second acts and new beginnings, it’s still unclear what the future holds for Chipping Norton’s erstwhile power couple, Matthew Freud and Elisabeth Murdoch. In the fall of 2014, the high-flying pair found themselves back in the news when it was revealed they were to divorce. Elisabeth, sister of James, had shrewdly distanced herself from the phone-hacking scandal and the family business, and there have been reports that she is not expected to make a professional return to her father’s companies. “She’s got a bunch of stuff she’s doing philanthropically and entrepreneurially,” James told the Hollywood Reporter in October, “and is very happy doing those things.” Freud (great-grandson of Sigmund) continues to run his eponymous British communications firm. However, according to London’s Evening Standard, “their break-up will disrupt a party power nexus that has taken root over the past 13 years.” Freud and I played e-mail tag for a few weeks, but in the end, he said, “I will respectfully pass.” In fact, most of the prominent Brits contacted for this piece wouldn’t touch the subject. “Can’t help with this one,” Piers Morgan told me, while someone whose world was rocked by the phone-hacking scandal simply explained, “It’s a period I don’t want to revisit.”
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rooks’ rehab has been well documented. It began in June 2014 when a British jury cleared her of all charges related to phone hacking and corruption at News of the World. After being spotted at the News Corp mothership in New York City, Brooks became increasingly visible within the offices of News UK, and rumors swirled about what title Murdoch would bestow upon her. The rock-solid status of their relationship seems clear, considering he made her CEO. At press time, despite a threat from her former security chief that he’d “tell everything,” Brooks appears to be sitting pretty, with a presumably plush salary to match the reported $17.6 million severance she got in 2011 and a major News Corp acquisition to her credit—the video ad-tech company Unruly. “Even Brooks and Cameron are now simpatico,” according to Cameron foe Lord Michael Ashcroft’s forthcoming biography of the prime minister. “Cameron and Brooks are back on speaking terms—but only just,” Ashcroft and his co-author, Isabel Oakeshott, wrote last fall in a preview of the book published by the Daily Mail. “There are no cozy suppers, no horse rides together, no intimate soirees with friends.” And it will probably stay that way, at least as far as the eye can see. “With the whole of Britain aware of the riot of inappropriate behavior a decade ago,” says Jukes, “if the Chipping Norton set does regather, it will have to be in secrecy. Otherwise it risks invoking Marx’s adage: history repeating itself, the first time as tragedy, and the second time as farce.” ■
Despite the tribulations of some of its more famous residents, housing prices in Chipping Norton rose a reported 16 percent in 2014.
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Bleak House Rebekah Brooks’ Cotswolds home, near the town of Chipping Norton.
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13-year-old named Milly Dowler, Oborne excoriated Brooks and her pals as “an incestuous collection of louche, affluent, power-hungry and amoral Londoners.” Today, those parties are but a distant memory. “The Chipping Norton set is dead as a geographical or social entity,” Peter Jukes, a London-based author of two books about the phone-hacking scandal, says. “These moments of power rarely happen so sumptuously and so visibly. So in a way, we’re sad it’s over.” That would seem to explain why the group still looms large in the popular imagination, rearing its head in gossip columns and newspaper copy. VIPs at an early September breakfast attended by Cameron, for instance, noted to the Mail on Sunday columnist Anne McElvoy that “the PM’s presence at an event laid on by Lord Chadlington, an Oxfordshire constituency friend, and the return of Rebekah Brooks to run Rupert Murdoch’s London newspapers marks a resurgence of the ‘Chipping Norton set.’ ” As one guest sniffed: “It’s the network that never dies.” When Freud’s yacht was spotted at the Cannes Lions confab last summer, it prompted Fleet Street veteran Piers Morgan “to snort that Cannes was becoming ‘Chipping Norton on sea,’ ” according to the Guardian. A few months earlier that paper ran a mock-horrified article about how Cameron and his wife spent New Year’s Eve at an “old school disco-style” party thrown by Chipping Norton habitué Alex James, bassist for the pop band Blur. “I’m afraid we need to face the terrifying possibility that the so-called Chipping Norton set did not die. It simply... mutated,” columnist Marina Hyde wrote at the time. “Perhaps it was retooling, and in its newest strain presents a threat for which we may be profoundly unprepared.” Presumably, the Chipping Norton fascination prevails because the key players have continued to make headlines— Brooks’ dramatic News Corp comeback, or the surprise 2015 election victory that gave Cameron an unexpected second term as prime minister. “With Cameron re-elected and Rebekah back in News Corp,” a prominent U.K. journalist suggests, “there’s still some power sloshing about.” Another comeback is that of James Murdoch, an occasional Chipping Norton guest, whose career was dealt a blow by the phone-hacking scandal. In its aftermath, his reputation was in tatters and his influence within News Corp diminished. As James’ father oversaw a separation of his media conglomerate into two entities, James was dispatched from London to New York and, according to a June 2015 New York Times profile, “he found himself cut off.” The hook for that profile? James’ appointment as CEO of News Corp’s sister company, 21st Century Fox. Broadcast journalist Jeremy Clarkson—who swanned about the Cotswolds with Brooks, the Murdochs and the rest of the gang—is another man who can’t be kept down. After the BBC fired him from his program Top Gear last March for punching out one of his producers, it wasn’t long before he landed a gig with Amazon’s streaming-video service. His new series is set to debut in 2016, and Clarkson will reportedly net more than $44 million over the course of his three-year contract, making him one of Britain’s highest paid television hosts. Clarkson was approached for this story, but his longtime manager—and, reportedly, estranged wife—Francie Clarkson responded on his behalf: “I’m afraid Jeremy will not be available to talk to you.” (Notably, when Clarkson was on thin ice with the BBC, Cameron spoke publicly in his defense.)
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Bruce Weber x Liz Taylor The new coffee-table tome 700 Nimes
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Road offers a rare glimpse inside Elizabeth Taylor’s Beverly Hills home, a place that was filled to the brim with relics from her storied Hollywood career. Taylor’s dear friend of nearly three decades, the legendary lensman Bruce Weber, shares his own memories of her most treasured possessions Photographed by Catherine Opie
Diamond in the Rough “She once told me to go into her safes downstairs and bring some of the jewelry boxes up to her room. I almost fell over, I was so nervous. I brought them up and started photographing all of it. She said, ‘Why are you doing that?’ And I said, ‘Well I just love it that you have plastic tape on these incredibly beautiful old boxes filled with diamonds.’ ”
Urban Cowgirl “Elizabeth used to wear these boots with the most outrageous clothes on her lavender motorcycle—she’d get on the back and drive around with [ex-husband] Larry Fortensky. She always laughed whenever she would land on a ‘best dressed’ list.”
The Sweetest Thing “Elizabeth wasn’t great with women; she was really a man’s girl. She was very feminine in a lot of ways. Tough, but very, very feminine. She liked [jewelry boxes] like this. The dog on the right looks so much like [her dog] Sugar. She brought that dog everywhere.”
# KUROH ARDROCK H O L LY WO O D, F L 路 S EMIN OLEH A RD ROCKH OLLY WOOD.COM 路 954 - 585-5333
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here are certainly perks that come with having a road named in your honor. Joel Katz found this out a few years back when he was stopped for speeding along Atlanta’s Joel Katz Parkway. “I got pulled over on Joel Katz Parkway and the cop said, ‘You know what, I can’t give you a ticket,’ ” he recalls with a laugh “But I deserved one—I was going pretty fast.” It wasn’t the first time that Atlanta had been lucky for Katz. A certified Yankee, the Queens native won a scholarship to study law at the University of Tennessee and, after graduating, never went north again. Katz first came to Atlanta in 1969 to take an entry-level job at the Department of Housing and Urban Development, but he found himself wanting for more exciting work. He tried his hand at teaching before setting up what he calls a “pathetically small” practice in Downtown Atlanta, sharing an office with four equally green lawyers and one communal assistant. Despite these humble beginnings, today the 71-year-old Katz is the chair of Global Entertainment and Media Practice at the powerhouse law firm Greenberg Traurig. He’s not only a social staple whose philanthropic work has raised millions, he’s also arguably Atlanta’s most impressive attorney. How did that happen? To hear Katz tell it, his success has hinged on his chance meeting with his very first client. “In 1971, James Brown was the biggest star in the world,” Katz explains, and the two of them had been introduced by a former student of Katz’s, a friend of a friend of the Hardest Working Man in Show Business. At the time, Brown needed someone to negotiate a contract with his new record label, requesting, among other things, a private jet and about $5 million. Katz had no experience conducting a deal of that magnitude, making him oblivious to the fact that Brown was requesting remuneration beyond what any experienced lawyer would be comfortable chasing. “He said, ‘You’ve never done one of these contracts, right?’ And I said, ‘Never,’ ” Katz recalls. “He said, ‘Great, you’re just what I want.’ And he hired me.” Brown wouldn’t be the last. Once word got out that Katz had negotiated that seemingly impossible deal for Brown, clients began seeking him out. In the years since, Katz has made a habit of working with some of the music industry’s greatest talents, and has brokered deals for everything from the televised broadcast of the Grammy Awards to Big Machine’s recent distribution agreement with Universal Music Group, making him the most important lawyer you may never have heard of. But there’s more to Katz than just a ferocious negotiator. What he says makes him unique is his appreciation for the creative mind. “I think that people in the arts are extremely intelligent, but
they’re different than people who are in business,” he says. “They view problems differently—maybe more subjectively than objectively—and sometimes they need help with the situations they find themselves in.” It’s his job to provide that help. “I would say most of my business is counseling,” he notes. “75 percent counseling, 25 percent legal advice.” Meanwhile, his clients praise his un-lawyer-like bedside manner. “He’s smart and hardworking, but he’s also very warm,” says Doug Morris, the Chairman and CEO of Sony Music and a client of more than two decades. “It’s different than the normal atmosphere you have with a lawyer; it’s the real thing.” Some of that can be chalked up to southern charm. In an industry whose leaders tend to congregate in New York or Los Angeles, Katz has become a titan without leaving Atlanta, and that’s just the way he likes it. “Atlanta’s been good to me,” he says, sitting in his Buckhead office, where the walls are hung with pieces by Roy Lichtenstein and Robert Longo as well as platinum records from his impressive roster of clients. “From not knowing one person, I got to a point where I know just about everybody.” That’s no understatement. These days, Katz represents some of music’s biggest names—from Willie Nelson and Jimmy Buffett to the estate of Michael Jackson—and he serves as general counsel to the National Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences. He also happens to be the only lawyer ever inducted into the Georgia Music Hall of Fame. That street named after him? It was a 65th-birthday gift from his pal the governor. Pressed for why he never left town for the more showbiz-friendly environs of a coastal metropolis, Katz confesses he prefers being a big fish in a less overwhelming pond. “I’ve got an ordinary life in a not-very-ordinary profession, and that’s been good for me,” he says. “If I was in New York or L.A., I’d be living my business, but in Atlanta I live a relatively normal existence.” Well, kind of. Despite his humility, Katz still travels the globe with a who’s who of international power players and handles billion-dollar deals for household names. He hosts lavish dinners for charity, owns a reported 3,300-bottle collection of fine wine and endows scholarships at schools including the University of Tennessee College of Law, Hunter College and Kennesaw State University. Asked whether, with all the wealth and acclaim he’s collected, he feels as though he’s made it, Katz doesn’t miss a beat. “Are you kidding?” he asks. “I have the most interesting life of anyone I know.” ■
The Music Man How Joel Katz became entertainment’s most sought-after lawyer Written by Adam Rathe
Earlier this year it was reported that Michael Jackson’s estate has earned over $1.1 billion since the pop star’s death.
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son of a diplomat, Ramírez has a marked love of travel. Perhaps it’s that wanderlust that led Ramírez to his roughand-tumble role in December’s Point Break, a high-octane reimagining of the 1991 surfer heist cult classic. “While most action films are shot in front of a green screen, we had the privilege to be in some of the most extreme locations in the world,” says Ramírez, who filmed the movie in 11 countries across four continents. “I’m grateful that nobody died.” And while the part of Bodhi—played in the original film by Patrick Swayze—finds Ramírez portraying the daredevil leader of a gang of BASE-jumping bank robbers, the 38-year-old actor had no trouble finding the character’s softer side. “I think that the film has a sense of resilience and of trying to defend the human spirit,” he explains. “Bodhi and his gang want to show that the human spirit is still alive. They don’t just want to point out what’s wrong with the system, they want to do something about it, they want to take it down.” It’s this counterintuitive take on the part that made Ramírez the right guy for it. “Edgar was an appealing choice for me because he is a deep thinker and a great actor,” director Ericson Core says. “The thing I loved about Carlos is that Edgar played a terrorist, but he still had a deep philosophy and he wanted to change the world. And that’s the story of Bodhi in this film—he is Don Quixote running at windmills. Edgar can’t help but put humanity into his performance.” It’s not the only great turn Ramírez will take this winter. He’ll appear opposite Jennifer Lawrence in Joy, director David O. Russell’s film about the inventor Joy Mangano, EDGAR RAMÍREZ HAS BEEN THROUGH the wringer. and will star as real-life boxing phenom Roberto Durán Over the course of the coming months, the Venezuelan-born alongside Robert De Niro in the upcoming Hands of Stone. actor will be ubiquitous on the big screen, and more often Both roles are based on living people, something that than not he’ll be engaged in some sort of possibly fatal Ramírez says presents a unique dramatic opportunity. activity, ranging from rock climbing to extreme surfing, “When you play a biographical character, it’s more of a cliff-diving or good, old-fashioned fist fighting. painting than a photograph,” he says. “In the end, you are While he might appear to be something of a daredevil, re-creating a life, its circumstances, its essence and the get to know the Golden Globe and Emmy nominee—lauded traits and qualities that make a person unique.” for his role as the South American radical Carlos the Jackal Ramírez might make his living portraying other people, in 2010’s Carlos—offscreen and a gentler picture begins but taking into account his rapidly growing résumé—includto emerge. Ramírez is fluent in five languages, including ing a role in the upcoming big-screen adaptation German and French (which no doubt came in handy a few of the bestselling thriller The Girl on the Train—and that years back, when he was tapped by Karl Lagerfeld to pose charmingly optimistic outlook, it’s no stretch to imagine that for a series of portraits), and having grown up the peripatetic the greatest portrait he’ll create will be one of himself. ■
Ramírez Rising Breakout movie star Edgar Ramírez proves to be tough, tender and, above all, talented Written by Eden Univer Photographed by Blair Getz Mezibov
TV. But how have its iconic stars been biding their time? Consider the mystery solved
EVERETT COLLECTION
GILLIAN ANDERSON
2002
DAVID DUCHOVNY
Anderson went brunette to play Lady Dedlock in the BBC’s Dickensian Bleak House, which was nominated for 10 Emmys.
Following nearly a decade of work, she hung up Dana Scully’s blazer for what could have been the final time.
After nine years, Duchovny said goodbye to Special Agent Fox Mulder.
2004
Duchovny went behind the camera to direct Robin Williams in House of D.
2005
He did the romantic-comedy thing opposite Julianne Moore in Trust the Man.
She snagged an Olivier Award nomination for the West End production of A Doll’s House.
The actress got dark with a pre-50 Shades Jamie Dornan in the dramatic series The Fall.
2009
2013
2007
His role on Showtime’s Californication landed him a Golden Globe.
Anderson published A Vision of Fire, the first in a series of science-fiction novels. 2014
2015
The Yale grad’s debut novel, Holy Cow, was published by Farrar, Straus and Giroux.
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BACK TO X After a nearly 14-year hiatus, The X-Files is returning to network
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Shirt, $737, ETRO, etro.com. Stylist: Paul Frederick. Groomer: Kristan Serafino using Tom Ford Men. Photographed on location at The Gordon Bar in New York City.
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Art of the Matter Nicholas Cullinan in his office; one of Cullinan’s favorite portraits from the collection, Gillian Wearing’s Shami Chakrabarti (2011); objects on the mantle in his office.
Portrait of a Gentleman
Nicholas Cullinan takes the reins at London’s National Portrait Gallery Written by Stephen Heyman Photographed by Benjamin McMahon
oft-spoken, boyish and American-born, Nicholas Cullinan doesn’t seem like the most obvious candidate to direct London’s National Portrait Gallery, an august institution whose collection of 10,000 paintings of famous Britons stretches back to the 16th century. Despite this, Cullinan, who’s schooled in art both classic and cutting edge, intends to raise the museum’s international profile by treating its two subjects—portraiture and British culture—not as restrictions but opportunities to make exciting new connections. “Those two parameters are really fascinating,” he says. “Especially now, when we often communicate through images that are portraits, like selfies. And we’re asking ourselves what exactly it means to be British.” In April, Cullinan, 38, became the second-youngest director in the Portrait Gallery’s 159-year history. About a decade earlier, while finishing his graduate studies at London’s Courtauld Institute of Art, he had worked for the museum part-time as a visitor-service assistant. This makes him one of the very few directors of a major museum who got their start guarding its galleries. “I think I may be the first,” Cullinan says with a sheepish grin during an interview in his office. The career trajectory has only helped endear him to the staff. “They understand that I worked my way up, that I haven’t had everything just handed to me on a plate.” With his thick-rimmed aviator glasses, curly red hair, and taste for knit ties and cardigans, Cullinan has the rumpled, bookish Brit look down pat. But he considers himself at least part Yankee. He was born in New Haven, Connecticut—his father was in construction, his mother a housewife—and grew up in Yorkshire. He has an American passport and still has family in the United States. “My accent isn’t entirely British, and I don’t think of myself as being completely British,” he says. “I’m really between America and Britain.” His interest in art was sparked before college when he traced the Victorian-era critic John Ruskin’s steps through Venice. Since getting his Ph.D. in art history, Cullinan has poured himself into a curatorial career that’s taken him from the Tate Modern (where he helped land the Matisse cut-outs show that became the most popular in the museum’s history) to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where he was a curator of modern and contemporary art. Recently, he’s been helping Miuccia Prada develop exhibitions for the Fondazione Prada’s new outpost in Milan. New York gallerist Angela Westwater says Cullinan’s success comes as no surprise to those who’ve seen him in action. “Nick’s scholarship, curatorial expertise, energy and enthusiasm set him apart early on,” she says. “It will be interesting to follow his work going forward.” In a way, Cullinan says, the job at the Portrait Gallery takes him away from the art world, since the museum is chiefly concerned with the subject instead of the artist. (“Sitter first” is one of its guiding principles.) “Over eight or nine years I did more than a dozen exhibitions and wrote and worked nonstop, but I felt like I really gave that my all and was ready to do something different,” he says. “One of the things about this place that makes it so special is that it’s not just about art and art history but also history, British culture and society. I really enjoy having that bigger picture.” ■
Richard Prince’s series “New Portraits” features selfies stolen from actual Instagram users. Pieces have sold for up to $90,000.
ARTWORK: SHAMI CHAKRABARTI BY GILLIAN WEARING, 2011 © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON
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Finding Frank
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F In Living Color Clockwise from top left: Gobba, zoppa e collotorto (1985); Chocorua IV (1966); the artist in one of his signature printed shirts; Eskimo Curlew (1976).
rank Stella is something of a downtown Manhattan institution. The celebrated painter and sculptor has lived in the same Greenwich Village house for nearly 50 years, and for almost three decades, until 2005, he worked out of an East 13th Street building—a former horse auction market—that has since been landmarked. But while the 79-year-old Stella has developed deep roots in the neighborhood, his latest collaboration—a career-spanning exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art—has landed him in league with the area’s most buzzedabout newcomer. “Frank Stella: A Retrospective” is a roughly chronological one-man show that occupies the fifth floor of the Renzo Piano–designed Whitney, which relocated with great fanfare to the Meatpacking District this past spring. Stella has previously been the subject of retrospectives at both the Museum of Modern Art and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, so it made sense that when the Whitney planned the first exhibitions in its new building, the institution chose him. Open since October 30, the survey traces Stella’s remarkable career over the course of almost 60 years. Figuring out how to accommodate such a range of artistic output was no simple task. “Frank’s body of work is enormous, so narrowing the show down to a manageable size has not been easy,” says
ARTWORKS: © 2015 FRANK STELLA/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK. PORTRAIT: ADRIAN GAUT/TRUNK ARCHIVE.
His lifetime of work may have earned awards, accolades and career retrospectives, but Frank Stella isn’t quite ready to take it easy Written by Natasha Wolff
WINTER’S TALES
From a fractured family in modern-day New York to a vengeful songbird in Second Empire Paris, the characters in this season’s best novels promise to deliver unforgettable adventures THE LOST TIME ACCIDENTS John Wray
A doomed love affair, a century-old secret and a protagonist who finds himself untethered from the laws of time (seriously) are at the heart of this new novel from Wray, the award-bedecked author of Lowboy. While the story touches on dynastic drama and the supernatural, what shines are the screwball adventures Wray sends hero Waldy Tolliver on during the course of nearly 500 delightful pages.
MR. SPLITFOOT Samantha Hunt
THE MARE Mary Gaitskill
Compelling and unexpectedly painful, Gaitskill’s first novel in a decade explores indecision over parenthood through Ginger and Paul, a couple in upstate New York, and 11-year-old Velveteen Vargas from Brooklyn, whom they meet through the Fresh Air Fund. The story is told convincingly through the alternating perspectives of unlike characters—people divided by age, class, gender and experience—but Velvet’s coming of age and relationship with a horse, Fugly Girl, underscore a poignant sense of unity.
“THEY’RE TRYING TO PRETEND THAT I’M DEAD.” “It is important for people to become familiar with all his series, to see how his work has evolved in a strategically built-up way,” says Agnes Gund, a longtime friend of Stella’s and collector of his work. “Frank is one of the artists you learn from. He’s had a great deal of influence on the history of art.” That’s true not only of his early paintings and prints, but also of later work for which Stella was an early adopter of digital prototyping. The process allowed him to fabricate 3-D models and create the one-off parts he used for celebrated sculpture series in the late 1980s. And Stella hasn’t slowed down since. Despite hip and knee replacements, he still produces between 20 and 30 pieces annually, and says his work remains as creatively demanding as ever before. “I like painting and art-making activities to be physical,” he explains. “There’s no question that the degree of physicality I can put into it now is limiting, but I still go with it.” ■
THE QUEEN OF THE NIGHT Alexander Chee
When Lilliet Berne, the toast of the Paris Opera, finally lands her dream role—one written especially for her—the elation is short-lived. In this sweeping, engrossing second novel from Chee, whose Edinburgh came out in 2002, the diva discovers her coveted part is based on the secret past she thought she’d hidden from the haut monde she’s made her life amongst.
Frank Stella lent his design to a BMW M1 racecar—for the Art Car collection—which sold for $854,000 in August 2011.
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Hunt’s enchanting third novel adeptly obscures the line between the earthly and the metaphysical. Decades after leaving her fundamentalist foster home, Ruth, now mute, encounters her pregnant niece, Cora. The two women embark on a twisted and otherworldly quest—intensified by Hunt’s lucid imagery—across New York state, where contemporary society is obscured in the wake of sublime characters and hairraising happenings.
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Michael Auping of the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, who curated the show. “Making a checklist with a living artist is like a chess match.” Talk to Stella about the process, and what he stresses is that he is indeed a living artist. “They’re trying to pretend that I’m dead,” he says one afternoon in a gallery space not far from the museum, regarding the push and pull between an artist and a curator over what work is important. Stella and Auping have struggled over the inclusion in the retrospective of the “Black Paintings,” a series made up of seemingly simple black stripes. “The ‘Black Paintings’ are absolutely critical to the retrospective,” insists Auping. “They’re the holy grail of Minimalism and the lens through which many of us view painting today.” Stella, who created them in the late 1950s when he was making his living as a housepainter and found black enamel to be easily affordable, disagrees. “It’s true there is a kind of myth behind the ‘Black Paintings,’ ” Stella says, “or a reputation anyway.” But the artist rejects the notion that the works are of a piece. “The most telling thing about [the paintings] is that they are very different from one to another,” he insists emphatically. “Although black is the dominant color, they don’t look so much alike when you experience them in person.” Still, of the two dozen or so canvases, six of them ended up in the show. And while Stella might not be thrilled with that chapter of his story—“He moved on a long time ago,” says Auping—there is plenty else for him to be excited about. Works on display include Das Erdbeben in Chili [N#3] (The Earthquake in Chile), 1999, a monumental twodimensional piece featuring intricate illusions, as well as selections from his “Scarlatti K” series (2006–12), which boast twisted color planes and steel lines. The assemblage of so much of Stella’s output is something of an event among art-world cognoscenti.
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DEFINING MOMENTS
IT’S BEEN A REMARKABLE YEAR FOR ALICIA VIKANDER, THE EXTRAORDINARY SWEDISH ACTRESS WHO’S ROCKETED FROM UNKNOWN TO A-LIST IN ALMOST NO TIME AT ALL. HERE, SHE AND OVER 30 OF 2015’S MOST ACCOMPLISHED ACTORS AND DIRECTORS WEIGH IN ON THE SECRETS TO THEIR BIG-SCREEN SUCCESS PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRUCE WEBER STYLED BY DEBORAH WATSON WRITTEN BY ADAM RATHE Fluid blouse, price upon request, LOUIS VUITTON, louisvuitton.com. On skin: Le Teint Touche Éclat Illuminating Foundation, $57, YVES SAINT LAURENT, sephora.com. On lips: Rouge Coco Shine Lipshine in Mélancolie, $36, CHANEL, chanel.com.
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“Don’t you want to say hello to the pretty lady?” Harvey Weinstein asks his 2-year-old son. A skeptical look crosses the little boy’s face, and instead of answering he hovers close to his father, waving his hand and flashing a smile at the stranger in front of him. The adults exchange a few more words and, once pleasantries are sufficiently dispensed, the boy toddles out of the sleepy restaurant into the Tribeca morning, quite possibly the only person in the world not trying to get just a little bit closer to Alicia Vikander. Considering the year Vikander’s had, it’s no wonder she’s found herself—at least among grown-ups—the subject of fervent attention. Since the April release of Ex Machina, the indie thriller in which she played perhaps the world’s most alluring vessel for artificial intelligence, the 27-year-old Swedish-born actress has appeared in an exceptional string of films, including the World War I drama Testament of Youth, Guy Ritchie’s spy romp The Man from U.N.C.L.E., the dark comedy Burnt and director Tom Hooper’s breathtaking love story The Danish Girl. She’s been tapped as the face for a Louis Vuitton campaign, landed a role opposite Matt Damon in the next Jason Bourne movie and accrued the kind of burgeoning celebrity that compels movie moguls to drop by her table at breakfast and introduce their bashful children. Still, Vikander will tell you, sudden ubiquity isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. “A lot of the films are coming out during the same time, so it’s been a bit overwhelming,” she says in her soft, British-inflected English.
“I’m scared of overexposure, but really I’m just feeling very happy about the work I’ve done with people I admire. Finally, we can let the films out there and see them alive.” A native of Gothenburg, Sweden, Vikander grew up with dreams of being onstage. As a child, she performed locally in musical theater, and she went on to study at the Royal Swedish Ballet School in Stockholm before opting to chase a career on-screen instead. “It’s probably the biggest life decision I’ve had to make, to finish dancing after so many years,” she says now. “It was a bit like breaking up, saying, ‘I think I have to not see you for a while. I need to go on this next journey.’ ” And she might not be completely over it. For the photos accompanying this story, Vikander—who still sports a lithe dancer’s frame and exudes bunhead confidence—was shot alongside New York City Ballet star Robert Fairchild. It was the first time since hanging up her leotard as a teen, she says, that she’s had the opportunity to dance: “I was like, fuck, what have I gotten myself into. But the music came on and I was able to just let go. We did lifts, we improvised and we danced. It was amazing.” On-screen, Vikander’s collaborations have a similar chemistry. In Testament of Youth she plays Vera Brittain, the pacifist writer now best known among British schoolchildren required to read her wartime memoir. But opposite Kit Harington as her love interest, any historical haughtiness is wiped away by hot-blooded adolescence and devotion.
“I’M SCARED OF OVEREXPOSURE, BUT REALLY I’M JUST FEELING VERY HAPPY ABOUT THE WORK I’VE DONE.” Fluid blouse, price upon request; Fluid skirt, price upon request; Palm Canyon Platform Desert boot, price upon request, LOUIS VUITTON, louisvuitton.com. Diana bangle, $630, AURÉLIE BIDERMANN, 212-335-0604.
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Above: Cape, $1,260, RYAN ROCHE, ryan-roche.com. Leotard, $21; Juliet slipper, $35, CAPEZIO, capezio.com. Skirt, $195, DKNY, dkny.com. Opposite: Poncho, $2,795, CHLOÉ, saks.com. Legwarmers, $23, CAPEZIO. Sculptural jewelry, price upon request, MICHELE OKA DONER, micheleokadoner.com.
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“In my eyes, Alicia is one of the most unique, forceful and sensitive actors I know,” says Harington. “Working with Alicia is kind of like going into battle with another actor, in the best possible way.” If that’s the case, her latest battle might boast the highest stakes of her career to date. In The Danish Girl, Vikander plays Gerda Wegener, a Danish artist whose husband, Einar—played by Eddie Redmayne—would become one of the first known recipients of a gender-reassignment operation. The film is based on David Ebershoff’s award-winning novel of the same name, a fictionalized version of the Wegeners’ story. But despite the stirring subject matter, the project has seen its share of false starts over the years. Directors Anand Tucker
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“WORKING WITH ALICIA IS KIND OF LIKE GOING INTO BATTLE WITH ANOTHER ACTOR,” SAYS KIT HARINGTON. and Tomas Alfredson and stars including Nicole Kidman, Charlize Theron and Gwyneth Paltrow have all been attached to the project only to drop out. It was only when Tom Hooper, an Academy Award winner for The King’s Speech, took the reins that things started to fall into place. “I was on the tube in London and read in the Guardian that Eddie was going to do The Danish Girl with Tom Hooper, and I was wowed,” Vikander says. “I knew they had tried to make this film for a long time and I thought they’d made a great casting choice, but it had no connection to me.” What Vikander didn’t yet know is that Hooper had hit a wall trying to cast Gerda. “I was quite troubled about who I could find to play opposite of Eddie,” the director explains, “because Eddie is so phenomenal.” When he met the young Swedish actress—whom he’d been impressed by in the 2012 film A Royal Affair—he found what he had been looking for. “Alicia was a revelation,” he says. “She never slowed down. She was always ahead, and she’s incredibly intellectually bright. I like working with actors who are collaborative, and she was a great collaborator.” Audiences seem to feel the same affection. When The Danish Girl premiered at the Venice Film Festival in September, the movie received a 10-minute standing ovation and Variety noted that Vikander’s performance is “the stuff that best-actress campaigns are built upon.” They’re not wrong. Vikander is remarkable in the way she portrays the conflicted, emotional and sometimes-steely Gerda, offering her an extraordinary depth and amplifying exponentially the power of the film’s love story. As her friend Nicolas Ghesquière, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton, says, “Alicia is a heroine, a strong, multifaceted woman, a true rebel. She’s a real actress who’s not afraid to take emotionally charged roles and play them wholeheartedly.” Outstanding performances aside, The Danish Girl also benefits from being released in a year that’s seen unprecedented visibility for transgender people, and that’s not lost on its cast. “If this film can be any part of that movement,” Vikander says, “that’s wonderful.” But there’s more to The Danish Girl than just a tale of gender identity. “It’s a very unique love story, but it’s still extremely relatable,” she says. “It’s about two people going into a new relationship, a new dynamic, and that’s something every person has been through. It’s a love story between two people, but above all it’s a story about being able to love yourself.”
Leotard, $21; Juliet slipper, $35, CAPEZIO, capezio.com. Skirt, $195, DKNY, dkny.com. On Robert Fairchild: Pants, $490, RYAN ROCHE, ryan-roche.com.
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Above: Dress, $2,350; Trianon boots, $1,070, DIOR, 800-929-3467. Blazer (wrapped around shoulders), $585, RAQUEL ALLEGRA, raquelallegra.com. Vintage hat, bag and jewelry. Opposite: Leotard, $21, CAPEZIO, capezio.com.
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Above, with artist Michele Oka Doner: Dress, $960, TOMAS MAIER, 212-988-8686. Sculptural jewelry, price upon request, MICHELE OKA DONER, micheleokadoner.com. Michele’s own clothing and jewelry. Opposite: Shearling coat, $7,295, CHLOÉ, 212-717-8220. Legwarmers, $23, CAPEZIO, capezio.com. Hair: Gerald DeCock using Oribe Hair Care. Makeup: Regine Thorre.
Prop stylist: Dimitri Levas. Producer: Dawn Boller at Little Bear. Manicurist: Donna D for Dior Vernis. Stylist assistant: Caroline Shin.
If the role was an ideal fit, perhaps it’s because of how thoroughly comfortable in her own skin Vikander seems to be. She’s got an unguarded charm and is quick to discuss quotidian pursuits—perfecting her recipe for chili, obsessively watching Master Chef, hoarding home-design magazines—in a way that doesn’t feel like pandering. She can chat at length about board games, and when she reaches into her handbag, she’s more likely to pull out playing cards than any cosmetics. “I always carry cards around with me,” she says with a laugh. “My girlfriends are doing it now, too. I was at a film festival in Italy, sitting in a restaurant, and my agent and I started to play cards, and someone came running up to say, ‘By law you’re not allowed!’ I said, ‘We’re not gambling, we’re just playing cards. It’s fine!’ ” Of course, not much seems like a gamble for Vikander these days.
She’s had the sort of winning streak most actors can only dream of, and the projects she has on deck promise to keep her firmly planted in the spotlight. In the coming months she’ll star, with Cara Delevingne and Jack O’Connell, in the period love story Tulip Fever and will appear alongside her beau, Michael Fassbender, in Derek Cianfrance’s drama The Light Between Oceans. Still, there might be nobody more surprised by the way things have played out than Vikander herself. “I’m doing what I never dreamed I would do,” she says. “I pinch myself every day.” That may be, but if there’s any question left as to whether or not Vikander has arrived, it’s unquestionably quashed when we signal the waiter for our check. “There’s no bill to pay,” he swings by to tell us. “Harvey put it on his tab.” ■
DEFINING MOMENTS
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RACHEL WEISZ IDRIS ELBA CATE BLANCHETT TODD HAYNES ROONEY MARA JASON SEGEL PAUL DANO ELLEN PAGE ABRAHAM ATTAH MICHAEL CAINE EDDIE REDMAYNE TOM HOOPER BRIE LARSON HARVEY KEITEL JACOB TREMBLAY KATE WINSLET MICHAEL FASSBENDER DANNY BOYLE CARY JOJI FUKUNAGA JOHN GOODMAN ASIF KAPADIA JOSEPH GORDON-LEVITT SAOIRSE RONAN STEVE CARELL ADAM McKAY JOEL EDGERTON JENNIFER JASON LEIGH LASZLO NEMES GEZA ROHRIG BRYAN CRANSTON BENICIO DEL TORO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEREMY LIEBMAN
2015
Rachel Weisz YOUTH
“My first day of filming was a night shoot at 3 a.m. I had a three-page monologue where I berate my dad, played by Michael Caine,” says Weisz, who stars in the moody drama about an aging orchestra conductor. “Paolo [Sorrentino, the director] covered us in mud and placed a camera above my head; he told me we would do the monologue in one shot. I had no idea in advance; normally a scene like this would be covered at many angles. But Paolo is not normal, he is extraordinary. We hadn’t rehearsed— I had just met Michael—and it was my character’s defining moment. I just let go and surrendered to the strangeness of the shot. Sometimes it is best to be out of control and completely not in charge or conscious of how things will go.” Weisz wears dress by Dior.
Idris Elba BEASTS OF NO NATION
“There was a moment when we hadn’t started shooting yet and I walked onto set. The extras hadn’t seen my army-fatigue costume, but when I came out and I walked through maybe 300 people, without any sort of prompt they just started saluting,” says Elba, who plays Beasts of No Nation’s bloodthirsty warlord. “It wasn’t acting, they were just happy to see me and it was a big moment in the film as well. That moment was real.”
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Elba wears sweater by Idris Elba + Superdry and jeans by Hugo Boss.
HAYNES GROOMER: SUSAN PHEAR.
Cate Blanchett
Todd Haynes
CAROL
“At the premiere in Cannes, we were nervous, but that really was an amazing night. I felt like I was in a fairytale,” the director recalls. “There was a lot of advance word of mouth on Carol, so I felt anxious about the film being looked at and all of the talk going away. And at that first screening, which happened the night I landed, I was like, ‘Oh, OK! I think the film is connecting.’ It’s really a huge hurdle to feel that, especially there.”
“It felt real for me once we landed in Cincinnati. I had never been there and in a way we could have never achieved what we did in the film in New York,” the actress says of the 1950s story of secretive love. “The times that I’ve been filmed in New York, the pressure there is so present that the suspension of disbelief is slightly more difficult. Then there was the first time I saw the movie with an audience: It was in Cannes, and that’s a bit of a blood sport, but I was really excited—and nervous.”
Rooney Mara “I remember very clearly the day when we shot the scene when Carol and Therese first have lunch together. It was such an extraordinary scene, and we got to do it in these long takes. It was our first real back and forth scene with dialogue,” says Mara, who plays a woman consumed by a new love. “The experience and, in a way, the digesting of what’s going on between them happens in that scene. It’s when their fate is sealed.”
From left: Blanchett wears jumpsuit by Ralph Lauren Collection. Haynes wears his own clothes. Mara wears sweater and skirt by Miu Miu. Photographed on location at the Film Society of Lincoln Center, New York City.
Jason Segel THE END OF THE TOUR
“The biggest challenge of making this movie was getting over my own fears; there were so many voices, including my own, saying I wouldn’t be capable of doing it,” Segel says of portraying the late author David Foster Wallace. “The biggest reward was when we wrapped and I felt like I had done everything I possibly could. That was really satisfying for me.”
STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. GROOMER: JAMIE TAYLOR.
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Segel wears suit and shirt by Isaia.
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STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. GROOMER: SUSAN PHEAR.
Paul Dano LOVE & MERCY
“I feel like the creative process was really alive on this film,” Dano says of Love & Mercy, in which he portrays a young Brian Wilson. “We had live musicians in the studio, including some of the guys who tour with Brian now, and were filming where he recorded Pet Sounds. It might have been my favorite two weeks of acting in my entire life.” Dano wears coat and pants by Gieves & Hawkes, shirt by Guess and boots by Tod’s.
FREEHELD
“Every time I read this script, I’m emotionally moved,” Page says of Freeheld, which is based on a real-life lesbian couple facing heartbreaking discrimination. “When I met Stacie Andree and she took me around the town and into the house that was her and Laurel Hester’s home, or to the convenience store where Laurel liked to get her coffee, I felt—even though Stacie had had this wonderful life— the emotional weight of her loss. That’s what hit me the most.” Page wears blazer by Polo Ralph Lauren, sweater by Max Mara and jeans by Jordache.
Abraham Attah BEASTS OF NO NATION
“Watching this movie, sometimes I wanted to cry—but I didn’t,” Attah says of his debut in Beasts of No Nation. “I hope people take away that it’s important to help the African countries that have child soldiers. They should stop the children so that they can have a better life.” Attah wears jacket by Dolce & Gabbana and jeans by Levi’s. Photographed on location at the Empire Hotel, New York City.
STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. HAIR: JOHN D. MAKEUP: TOBY FLEISHMAN.
Ellen Page
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STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. GROOMER: SUSAN PHEAR.
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Michael Caine YOUTH
“Paolo Sorrentino sent me a script, which he said he’d written for me. I was stunned that he’d even heard of me, let alone written a script for me, but I absolutely fell in love with it,” the Youth star explains. “I don’t play the lead very often in a movie anymore. If something interests me, I’ll do a couple of weeks on a movie to have some fun, but playing the lead is a hard job.” Caine wears his own clothing.
Eddie Redmayne
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THE DANISH GIRL
“There is a scene in the film, in which my character Lili is still living as Einar, and she goes out in Paris to a peep show,” Redmayne says of his role as a transgender woman in 1920s Europe. “There are men watching this woman dance, and Lili watches through a pane of glass, and then starts emulating her. This woman looks through the glass and sees the real Lili, not just her in the male guise. It was an extraordinary scene to shoot because I hadn’t met the woman playing the dancer before, and we didn’t really get to know each other, but we had this spontaneous and improvised moment together. It was unlike any other acting experience I ever had, and it was completely unique. It was just a moment and then it was gone, but I think it was one of the more important moments in the film.”
Tom Hooper “A defining moment for me on The Danish Girl was Alicia Vikander’s London screen test with Eddie. It was the first time I saw Alicia bring Gerda to life. But it was also the first time I saw Eddie as Lili Elbe,” says Hooper, the film’s director. “I was moved to tears by their extraordinary realization of the scene, beautifully written by Lucinda Coxon. Eddie joked that ‘there was no suspense about who I was going to cast as Gerda.’ He was right.” Redmayne wears sweater, shirt, pants and shoes by Gucci and watch by Omega. Hooper wears his own clothing.
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Brie Larson ROOM
“We had been inside this tiny, 10foot-by-10-foot room that had been built for us for a month. It had been hard being inside that room, and everybody was like, ‘I can’t wait until we escape,’” explains Larson, who stars in Room, a harrowing account of a young woman and her son breaking out of captivity. “I remember our last day, feeling really off when I woke up, and it hit me that we were doing this scene that day, and that I had to say goodbye. We launched into that scene and I realized I had been building toward this for months, prepping for that one pivotal moment of saying good-bye.” Larson wears dress by Burberry Prorsum. STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. HAIR: JOHN D. MAKEUP: TOBY FLEISCHMAN.
Harvey Keitel YOUTH
“The day I completed shooting, I said to the director that I wasn’t really finished,” the Youth star recalls. “And I still feel that way, because this story is really a poem; it’s difficult to tell where it ends. It’s something I still reflect on, especially as we’re offering it to the audience. I feel like I want to sit and have a drink with everyone who sees the film, to talk it over together and to moan and to laugh.” Keitel wears his own clothing.
Jacob Tremblay ROOM
“People usually say, ‘Oh, you did such a good job, you made me cry.’ But how did I make them cry? I didn’t do anything,” says Tremblay, the 9-year-old star of Room. “My mom cried when she saw the movie. She said she cried because she was so happy, but then she cried because it was so sad.” Did he tear up at his own performance? “Well,” he explains, “I’m not allowed to watch it.” Tremblay wears blazer and pants by Bonpoint, hoodie by Marc Jacobs and shirt and shoes by Gap. Photographed on location at the Empire Hotel, New York City.
STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. GROOMER: SUSAN PHEAR.
From left: Winslet wears blazer by Michael Kors, shirt by Joseph, jeans by Rag & Bone and boots by Isabel Marant. Fassbender and Boyle wear their own clothing.
Kate Winslet STEVE JOBS
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“This film was all of us in it together, and that was very much because of Danny giving us these roles and guiding us and being there for every step of it,” Winslet says of Steve Jobs, the masterful look at the late founder of Apple. “He was letting us experiment and make mistakes and get the shit parts out of the way in the rehearsal room, allowing Michael and I to try something that was clearly a terrible idea but letting us do it anyway. It was an amazing opportunity to figure out what really didn’t work before walking onto the set, knowing that we had two or three choices that we were happy with in our back pockets.”
Danny Boyle
“You can’t buy an opinion off Steve Wozniak. He always says what he thinks, and, thank God, he loved it,” the director says with relief. “He knew Steve Jobs as well as anyone, they had a complicated, deeply important friendship over many, many decades, and together set in motion the world we’re living in now. It was pretty special to get that vindication, because he would not be shy about saying, ‘You got it wrong.’”
Michael Fassbender “The great thing about filming the third act was that I didn’t have to learn any more lines,” says Fassbender, who plays Jobs. “When we finished the first act, I would go home and start learning the lines for the second act. And then when we were doing the second act it was the same thing. That was my routine. But by the time we got the third act, I didn’t have any more lines to learn. It was nice, but I didn’t know what to do with myself, actually.”
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Cary Joji Fukunaga BEASTS OF NO NATION
“The Sunday after our first week of shooting, we had footage to show all the kids,” the Beasts of No Nation director says. “All the extras and our crew showed up to see what we were doing projected on a big screen. The feeling of them seeing what their work could result in was great. We kept that going through the whole shoot and by the end, it was packed. More and more people were coming to watch it, and there was no place to sit.” Fukunaga wears his own clothing.
John Goodman TRUMBO
“Most people don’t know about Dalton Trumbo, and it’s important to remind the world about the House Un-American Activities Committee,” the actor says of the film, which explores the titular screenwriter’s life on the blacklist. “I don’t think too many people realize the sacrifices that were made. In the culture of fear and paranoia of today’s politics, that seems to be the way the game is run. It’s nice to have a reminder of the upshot of what Dalton did.” Goodman wears his own clothing.
Asif Kapadia AMY
“I never met Amy Winehouse. I never saw her live. I was interviewing people, asking them questions and getting information, but there was a tipping point that happened in the process, when people were talking to me and I found myself correcting them,” the director of the documentary Amy says. “I realized I knew more than the people who knew her; I was filling in blanks. That’s the moment when you realize, OK, now you are in that position where you know almost as much as anyone about someone you never met.” Kapadia wears suit by Theory from Bloomingdale’s and shirt by Pal Zileri.
Joseph GordonLevitt
Gordon-Levitt wears his own clothing. Photographed on location at the Empire Hotel, New York City.
STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. GROOMER: SUSAN PHEAR.
THE WALK
“Mr. Zemeckis is so good at weaving together a yarn that I was just along for the ride,” the star of The Walk, which tells the tale of daredevil high-wire artist Philippe Petit and his walk between the Twin Towers, recalls. “One of the greatest things that he said to me was, ‘My favorite special effect is a close up.’ What I think he meant was you can have the coolest, most expensive visual effects in the world, but if the audience doesn’t sincerely care about the human beings in the story, then those effects are nothing but visual.”
Saoirse Ronan BROOKLYN
“When we shot the scene on the deck of a boat, near the end of the film, [my character] Eilis has gone full circle; she has experienced homesickness, grief, love, success, heartbreak, and has come out the other side,” Ronan says of the mid-century story of an Irish immigrant in New York. “This film helped me to overcome so much; it helped me grow. To read the most beautiful dialogue, written by Nick Hornby, I felt in that moment, regardless of what happened with the film after we wrapped, that it was all worthwhile and it meant something to everyone there that day.”
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Ronan wears suit and shirt by ME+EM and shoes by Jimmy Choo.
Steve Carell
Adam McKay
THE BIG SHORT
“The big moment for me was when I first watched the rough assembly of the movie, which our editor did an amazing job with,” the film’s director says. “I’ve never seen one that played as well as this. Usually it’s a mess, with long parts of it that don’t make sense. I was actually watching the footage like it was a movie. And that was when I said, ‘Oh, my God. I think we actually kind of knew what we were doing.’ ”
“There aren’t any times when I sit back after a take and think, I nailed it! I always had the sense that if I felt satisfied at the end of shooting a scene that I should retire right then,” Carell says of the film The Big Short, which unfolds against the 2007 financial crisis. “There are millions of ways to play something, and it’s infinite as to how something can unfold. What I try to do is put my faith in the director, who knows how these puzzle pieces will fit together. I’m just a piece and I’m going to try and make myself as useable as I can be.”
Carell wears his own clothing and watch by Omega. McKay wears his own clothing. Photographed on location at the Empire Hotel, New York City.
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BLACK MASS
“I’m a fan of movies in which it’s hard to tell who is the protagonist and who is the antagonist, and therefore who you empathize with or not. As an actor, I look for those different shades,” Edgerton, who plays John Connolly, a crooked federal agent working against—and sometimes with— mobster Whitey Bulger in Black Mass, says. “This movie doesn’t have the typical kind of hero; the drive of the movie is a tapestry of men doing bad, self-serving things. I think John had heroic intentions, but because they were so infused with ambition, they were thwarted from the get-go.” Edgerton wears jacket by Todd Snyder, sweater and shirt by Paul Smith, pants by ASOS, watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre and boots by Johnston & Murphy.
STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. HAIR: JOHN D. MAKEUP: TOBY FLEISCHMAN.
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Joel Edgerton
Jennifer Jason Leigh THE HATEFUL EIGHT
“I’ve never bought into the notion of men being from Mars and women being from Venus, but when you are the only woman on a set, you see that men are really different,” Leigh says of her time filming Quentin Tarantino’s The Hateful Eight. “But I loved it, and even though I’m no delicate flower, I felt like they were protecting me. The experience of making this movie and working with these actors was unlike anything I have ever experienced in my life.” Leigh wears shirt and pants by Kiton.
László Nemes SON OF SAUL
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“The most essential moment for me was when I first read the writings of the crematorium workers. These texts are not well-known, but they give an incredible opportunity for the reader to be transported to that present,” the director of the film—about a man in a concentration camp attempting to bury his son—says. “To have that reference helped me talk about things that have never been approached in cinema regarding the experience of individuals in concentration camps.”
Géza Röhrig “The first time we were shown around the set—this is the gas chamber, this is the crematorium, this is the bunker—was the first concrete moment when I felt it was going to be alright,” says the Son of Saul star. “It somehow felt familiar, and like this was really on track because I could see that we could do this in that place. It was well done for what it had to be.” Nemes and Röhrig wear their own clothing.
Bryan Cranston TRUMBO
“There were a lot of challenges to making Trumbo, but not one of them was insurmountable,” Cranston says of the film that has him playing blacklisted screenwriter Dalton Trumbo. “With the amount of research and reading that you do, slowly it starts to seep into your psyche—and there is a point when a character hovers outside, and you draw it in by being a dry sponge. And then, all of a sudden, it succumbs to you. You have to trust that it’ll do that and just keep working until it does.” Cranston wears sweater by Boglioli and jeans by Frame Denim.
STYLIST: PAUL FREDERICK. GROOMER: ROSIE JOHNSTON.
Benicio Del Toro SICARIO
“Movies are very fickle. I’ve done many where I think, ‘Oh that’s going to be good,’ and it isn’t. With this one, my expectations were up in the air,” Del Toro says of Sicario, a thriller following U.S. agents beyond the Mexican border. “But across the board everybody brought their A game. It would be the equivalent of taking a group picture and everybody looking their best. Getting that to happen? It’s really complicated.” Del Toro wears his own clothing.
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IN GOOD Clockwise from top left: Seared mallard with sweet potato puree at Jerusalem’s The Eucalyptus; artisanal soda at Café Levinsky 41 in Tel Aviv; on the Tel Aviv promenade; the vine-covered dining room at Tishbi Estate Winery in Binyamina; chef Moshe Basson in the kitchen at The Eucalyptus; the most requested seats at Tel Aviv’s Ha Salon are at the bar; many dishes at Uri Buri incorporate fish just caught from the Mediterranean; wine and chocolate tasting at Tishbi Estate; a mango tree at Bustan Levona, which grows more than 100 varieties of fruit trees; chef Leon Alkalai at Tel Aviv pizza spot Tony Vespa.
WRITTEN BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK HARTMAN
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CAN CHAOS INSPIRE? ISRAEL’S MOST INTERESTING, INNOVATIVE CHEFS SAY IT CAN
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ne hour and 20 minutes north of Tel Aviv, in the ancient Mediterranean port town of Acre, chef Uri Jeremias leads me into the tiny kitchen tucked in the back of the Ottoman-era stone building that has housed his restaurant, Uri Buri, since 1989. Business, and life, here has not always been easy. Just 20 miles from the Lebanon border, Acre, a center of the Third Crusade, has witnessed its share of upheaval. And yet Uri Buri’s mission has remained steadfast. A decade ago, when the militant group Hezbollah began sending missiles into Israel, Acre was one of the towns hit hardest. Throughout it all, Jeremias’s doors stayed open. “It was more important than ever,” he says. This is a philosophy practiced by many chefs, around the world and throughout the ages: Food, and eating, is for celebrating, but it’s also for commiserating and comforting. And with hard work and constancy, Jeremias and other like-minded chefs have created within Israel a dining community that continues to thrive, not just despite, but perhaps because of, the country’s on-again, off-again uncertainty. Jeremias became a chef after spending his later youth as a fisherman, where he found the success he could not find in school. “I was lucky in that I had parents who believed in me and let me go out and find my way,” he says. Today, he runs one of the country’s most acclaimed, and most understated, restaurants, a food destination for travelers who come to spend long afternoons and evenings over meals of fish just pulled from the sea, carafes of Israeli wine and, not least of all, dessert, because, as Jeremias says, “salmon without ice cream is like a kiss without a moustache.” He cooks what he likes and what delights him in the moment; he only started recording recipes when someone asked him to write a book, which is filled, like his menu, with such unexpected pairings as anchovy-and-peach ceviche, caramelized tilapia with sweet-and-sour beetroot and almond-arak sorbet. But although creating good food is chief, Jeremias’s focus lies nearly as resolutely on the people he assembles to help prepare and serve it. Acre is a mixed city, and both Uri Buri and his nearby 12-room boutique inn, Efendi Hotel, are staffed by equal numbers of Jews and Arabs. “For me, peace is easy. Peace is about respect,” says Jeremias, who is Jewish. “I believe that we don’t have to agree with one another or even always understand one another, but we always have to respect one another. And in this way I do think it’s possible to work and live together. And this is because I see it happen every day.” He built Efendi with the sole purpose of bringing more people to Acre to witness that harmony. “Life here is very different than the idea you get reading the papers and watching TV back home,” he says. “It’s very important for us here in Acre and in the whole of Israel for people to come and see that.”
RELEASED IN 2012, Jerusalem, written by London chefs Yotam
Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, was a hit beyond expectation. To be sure, the cookbook was a best seller because the recipes in it are good—interesting, innovative, just challenging enough. But it is also a collection that is exceedingly relevant, both in terms of tastes and politics. Israeli food is like its people: a truly modern mash-up of ethnicities and viewpoints. It’s also respectful of the past, steeped in tradition and custom. Though culinary innovation is key, the chefs doing the most important work here are those who, like Jeremias, have been doing it for a long time. “Americans think that they would find Eastern European food in Israel,” says Gil Hovav, a former restaurant critic and food-TV celebrity in Tel Aviv. “Once they are here, they are shocked at the fact that almost nobody in Israel knows what knishes are—they never made it to Israel—that most people who do know gefilte fish hate it, that we do not eat bagels and that it is very difficult to find a decent kosher restaurant.” Instead, they find Georgian pastries, Turkish shawarma, Libyan spicy fish, North African shakshuka, local cheese and wine, non-kosher sushi joints and tons of hummus. And in most cases, says Hovav, they fall in love. “Israel is like the United States in a way,” says Leon Alkalai, one of Tel Aviv’s more pioneering chefs who now spends most of his time as a consultant and partner in Tony Vespa, a local pizza mini-chain. (“The people want pizza,” he says. “Who am I to argue with that?”) Cooking in Israel, Alkalai says, has always been about evolution and progress, and borrowing from the best of others. “We came here from all over the world and we have all these different types of kitchens in one small place—Libyan, Bulgarian, Polish, Italian, Moroccan, French,” he says. “Many marriages are cross-cultural. That’s how the first fusion came about. But it has to move very slowly and very carefully. So you don’t destroy the history when you’re creating something new.” There are all sorts of wild Israeli versions of fusion cooking. “Have you ever tasted a Yemenite pizza?” asks Hovav. “I just had one yesterday in the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv, baked on Lehouh Yemenite dough and sprinkled with Hawaij Yemenite spice mixture.” In recent years, both Alkalai and Hovav say, eating out—the act of getting together with others, but also of seeking out food as a source of pleasure—has become more important for Israelis as the sense of unease fluctuates. “If the fighting has taught Israelis anything,” says Alkalai, “it’s to enjoy life.” Whether it’s in the form of a family-style mezze of hummus, roasted aubergine and cheeses at Tel Aviv underground favorite Ha’achim (Hebrew for “The Brothers”) or a cast-iron pan of shakshuka, the spicy egg-and-tomato breakfast dish served all day long at Dr. Shakshuka in Jaffa, food has become an important means to escape: Surrounded by countries almost perpetually in some state of turmoil, Israelis can really only get in the car and drive as far as their own borders, or otherwise hop a plane. When that’s not possible, there is a good meal down the street. Chefs, in turn, have grown more creative. The country’s various open markets do a good job satisfying this inventiveness for both professional and home cooks. At both Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda and Tel Aviv’s Levinsky markets, chilies, cumin, fresh coriander and basil mix with more classically Israeli spices like za’atar and sumac. There are Libyans selling Libyan blends; Turks selling Turkish blends. There is history: Specialty foods like halvah, marzipan and mutabak are largely sold by the same families that first began selling them in these stalls years ago, using the same recipes, too. But there is also the new: At artisanal soda shop
“LIFE HERE IS VERY DIFFERENT THAN THE IDEA YOU GET READING THE PAPERS AND WATCHING TV BACK HOME.”
Clockwise from top left: The Friday afternoon pre-Shabbat scene at Dr. Shakshuka in Jaffa; family-style mezze at Ha’achim in Tel Aviv; shopping in Jerusalem’s Muslim Quarter; a view of Jerusalem’s Old City; Acre chef and champion Uri Jeremias in his restaurant, Uri Buri.
Café Levinsky 41 in Tel Aviv, owner Benny Briga spends a good 10 minutes preparing my homemade gazoz, or soda, of macerated guavas plucked from a tree in his parents’ backyard, and although I could drink it all in one quick gulp, I slow down instead. This, of course, is entirely his point.
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n Jerusalem, the book, the authors talk about how food can transcend religion (which they also acknowledge is not an absolute). In Jerusalem, the city, Iraqi-born chef Moshe Basson of The Eucalyptus does his best to achieve that ideal. His acclaimed kosher restaurant, on a cobblestoned street in the Artists’ Colony, serves a clientele that includes Arabs, Jews, Christians and plenty of non-believers “biblical cuisine” based loosely on foods of the Bible—wheat, barley, olive oil, figs, honey, pomegranates, freekeh. “Loosely” means chickenliver macarons, fire-roasted eggplant covered in pomegranate seeds and tahini, focaccia with za’atar pesto, chubeiza gnocchi and his famous makloubeh, a rice, chicken and vegetable casserole with saffron and almond yogurt.
“When I first started, I mixed the cooking styles of my mother and my grandmother with that of our Arab neighbors,” says Basson, a founding member of Chefs for Peace, a decades-old, but perhaps never more relevant, movement that began when Jerusalem-born Armenian chef Kevork Alemian watched his Christian, Jewish and Muslim colleagues working together in the kitchen. “People see the fire and blood here, but they don’t really know what it’s like. In any kitchen there are Jews and Muslims working together, laughing and drinking together.” As further evidence that the mood in Israel isn’t nearly as serious as the average news connoisseur might believe, nearly as much as they love food, Israelis love their reality TV—and their reality-TV chefs. Eyal Shani was already well known as a restaurateur and local eccentric when he became a host of MasterChef Israel, but the show undoubtedly put his fourth endeavor, Ha Salon, firmly in the realm of the reliably packed (despite the seeming lack of effort, with no website and hidden, as it is, at the end of a side street with no signage). Two nights a week, it is one of Tel Aviv’s most in-demand places to be, with a bar encircling the open kitchen where Shani cooks before adoring guests. The food is as inventive as one has come to expect here in Israel—grouper tartare with green chili and radish, tomato carpaccio—and the vibe far more festive, too. At around 10, the lights dim, the Arabic music gets louder, the dancing on tables begins and there’s no place anyone here would rather be. ■
FOR CONTACT INFORMATION and more recommendations on where to eat, where to stay and what to do in Israel, visit dujour.com
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY GRANT CORNETT EDITED BY PAUL FREDERICK
BY KEEPING THEIR FACES HIDDEN, SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST SOUGHT-AFTER WATCHES STOP APPEARING LIKE WATCHES AT ALL
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Above: Secret de la Reine watch in 18-karat white gold with cameo case and diamonds, $92,200, BREGUET, breguet.com. Right: Edwardian Lapel watch in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds and enamel, price upon request, FRED LEIGHTON, 212-288-1872.
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M POSH PARTIES, HIGH-STAKES GAMBLING AND HORSE RACING ON ICE? ST. MORITZ’S 109-YEAR-OLD WHITE TURF FESTIVAL IS ARGUABLY THE MOST OVERTHE-TOP (AND UNDER-THE-RADAR) SPECTACLE IN THE WORLD WRITTEN BY MICKEY RAPKIN PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARTIEN MULDER
White Turf is home to the Credit Suisse Skikjöring Trophy, a competition in which drivers on skis are dragged by their steeds.
Clockwise from top left: Onlookers enjoying a chilled glass of champagne; a picturesque view from the Kulm Hotel; the White Turf racetrack on top of a frozen Lake St. Moritz; harness racing, where horses pull drivers in two-wheeled carts; spectators stay warm in their finest furs.
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“A LOT OF PEOPLE DON’T REALIZE WE’RE ON A FROZEN LAKE.”
a curious contest where drivers (on skis!) are dragged around the mile-and-three-quarter frozen track by their steeds. Heinz E. Hunkeler, general manager of the venerable Kulm Hotel, smiles as he attempts to explain this very St. Moritz endeavor in heavily accented English. “I was born here, I grew up here, I have seen it as a small kid,” he says of skikjöring (the Norwegian word for ‘ski driving’). “I always said definitely I’d like to try it out once as well. You have this turf of snow—little snowballs, flying into your face.” He laughs, trying to find the best comparison. “It’s more than a facial.” Building a racetrack and erecting tents requires an army of 60 people working seven days a week, and there’s no time to waste. Engineers begin poking holes in the ice’s surface in January to measure thickness; the magic number is between 40 and 50 centimeters, and preparations begin the moment it’s safe. “This year it was late,” explains Grasern-Woehrle. Were people nervous? “Um, sometimes, yes. Yes. Because it’s nature, right?” If the lake’s border isn’t quite thick enough, a helicopter will airlift supplies (and man power) into the center so construction can get underway. There’s no margin for error. Ultimately the ice must withstand 2,900 tons of equipment, including running stalls and starting stalls. Seventy-five tents—situated like high-end barracks around one half of the track—will house a variety of pop-up cafes, boutiques and even a BMW dealership, which in 2015 showcased the X5 xDrive50i (sticker price: upwards of $80,000), plus the massive grandstands—the best place to view the sport. Nine semi-trucks transport food and equipment to the lake. Chef Remo Siebers of Gamma Catering, who presides over some 50 cooks, describes the often chaotic scene in the kitchen, where the ovens are constantly working. “Some years,” he says, “we are standing in the water.” Perhaps one shouldn’t be surprised to find such unlikely celebrations in St. Moritz, a destination known for its so-called “champagne climate.” It’s a town whose history is littered with firsts. The Engadin valley was the birthplace of bobsled racing in 1890, and Switzerland’s first ski school later opened here in 1929. St. Moritz is now celebrating 150 years of winter tourism, and its game is on point. There are five five-star hotels in town and a luxury arms race is well under way. Staff at The Carlton will send a chauffeurdriven Bentley to fetch guests from the train station (or more likely, from the airstrip for those flying private). The Kulm Hotel offers dog-sitting services and a pillow menu complete with nine options varying in firmness and scent. No request is too outlandish. For a recent party at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel—where the lobby is referred to as the “living room” of St. Moritz, because of its high see-and-be-seen quotient—the manager tells us that he recently imported actual live seals to swim in the pool. Which is to say nothing of the food. A branch of Matsuhisa recently opened in Badrutt’s Palace, where the hotel’s wine cellar is stocked with some 40,000 bottles. The most expensive item is a magnum of Dom Perignon covered in white gold, which sells for 20,000 Swiss francs (or roughly $21,000). I asked the Palace’s sommelier, Florian Sender, what mistake people make when ordering wine. He smiles, saying: “I don’t think they make a mistake if they are ordering wine.” (His preferred après-ski drink is Salon S champagne, which retails for a more reasonable $300 a bottle.)
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he VIP tent at the White Turf festival in St. Moritz feels a bit like the capitol in The Hunger Games: decadent with a hint of the obscene. It’s the dead of winter and while it may be snowing outside, it’s practically balmy in here. Sixty handsome waiters tend to lavish dessert tables and hulking cheese wheels and carving stations with slowroasted beef. The crowd is a mix of fashionable septuagenarians in sable, Euro moms gripping clutch-size puppies, banker types from Zurich and raucous boarding-school brats. Three tons of mineral water are on hand, plus a coat check boasting more fur than a Petco. If you haven’t guessed it, this mid-winter celebration is a logistical nightmare—especially considering where we’re standing. “A lot of people don’t realize we’re on a frozen lake,” says Claudia GrasernWoehrle, who has handled press for White Turf for the last 15 years. Talk about Swiss precision. Of all the wild happenings in St. Moritz, a celebrated playground for the well-heeled, White Turf may be the chicest. Since 1907, thousands of spectators have traveled from all over Europe each February to watch horses race at breakneck speed across a frozen Lake St. Moritz, and competition is fierce; thoroughbreds and Arabians (fitted with special horseshoes) often arrive a week in advance to acclimate to the higher altitude. The races take place over three consecutive Sundays, and include flat racing and harness racing (where the horses pull buggies). But the highlight is always the Credit Suisse Skikjöring Trophy,
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he proper way to do White Turf, of course, doesn’t involve getting much rest. Via Serlas is St. Moritz’s answer to Rodeo Drive, and the houses of Chanel, Gucci and Bottega Veneta are all represented. Maybe it’s the altitude, but this is the kind of place where a Brioni suit could be considered an impulse buy. Then there are the late-night activities. The annual White Turf Lake Dance draws some 600 people to a tent on the ice where a DJ spins a mix of EDM and hip-hop classics until six in the morning. The iconic King’s Club in Badrutt’s Palace pimps $40 cocktails to the likes of Kate Moss and Robert De Niro. (Every hotel in town claims Charlie Chaplin, Andy Warhol and Alfred Hitchcock among its famous guests.) But the best party is happening off piste at La Baracca, a no-frills ski lodge downtown where aging locals and private-school snobs mingle seamlessly, singing along to guilty pleasures like “Sweet Caroline” and “Mambo No. 5.” You’ll notice no one is looking down at their phones, and that’s because there’s no better spot in town. Nicolà Hofer, an absurdly handsome 25-year-old sports-marketing agent and member of the town’s Cresta Club, explains Baracca’s appeal: “Great food, good mixture of people, nice music, dinner and party at the same place.” As if to prove a point, one of his friends grabs a handful of snow from an open window and throws it clear across the bar. When asked if he’ll be going to White Turf in the morning, Hofer sips a local Swiss beer and squints: “It starts quite early, no?” The definition of “early” in the Swiss Alps is subjective. White Turf’s first race doesn’t start until after noon, but plenty of spectators are milling about before then, keeping warm by sipping champagne and slurping oysters. BMW isn’t the only blue-chip firm flogging its wares. Representatives from Gulfstream are on-site as well, as are educators from a top Swiss boarding school, Lyceum Alpinum Zuoz. Exclusivity is this town’s raison d’être, with velvet ropes everywhere from the Cresta Club to the members-only Dracula Club, founded by Gunter Sachs—one-time husband of Brigitte Bardot and a man the Sotheby’s catalog once referred to as a “playboy, businessman, gallerist, museum director, art collector, filmmaker, celebrity, photographer, astrologer, director and sportsman.” (Ask your concierge to help you get in.) Like any international sporting event drawing a fashionable crowd, there’s more than food and drink to distract you at White Turf. There’s also gambling. The highly anticipated Grand Prix of St. Moritz—the longest and most important flat race at White Turf, running 2,000 meters—falls on the festival’s final Sunday, and it carries the highest purse in Switzerland, with the winner taking home 111,111 Swiss francs. Gamblers can evaluate thoroughbreds on-site before placing their bets. Though for most spectators, betting here is less of a science and more of, well, craps. Luigi Sala, a White Turf board member who ran the betting tents for many years, explains that the Swiss government will take 35 percent of a foreigner’s winnings. Also, he says, “We don’t work with odds the way you have with the bookmaking business in the States.” He suggests a different tactic. “If you are here with your partner,” he says with a smile, “just have a look at the nice-looking jockey and the nice horse and then you bet on that. Maybe you are lucky and you can enjoy the big pot!” Or, you can always bet on the horse with the most amusing name. And there are plenty of choices. At the 2015 White
“WE DON’T WORK WITH ODDS THE WAY YOU DO IN THE STATES.... JUST HAVE A LOOK AT THE NICE-LOOKING JOCKEY, AND BET ON THAT.”
Turf, a man could be heard cheering loudly for a horse named Buddhist Monk, shouting: “Go Buddhist! Go Buddhist!” No matter where you stay—or how much money you wager—you won’t soon forget the sight of a grown man on skis being pulled around a frozen lake by a horse. I caught up with Franco Moro, 55, who won the 2015 Skikjöring Trophy, to find out how he trains for such a strange, adrenaline-filled contest. It turns out this is a silly question. “It’s impossible that you practice,” he says of a sport likened to Ben-Hur on snow. Fair enough. Large frozen lakes and specialty horseshoes are hard to come by. Besides, celebrating is more fun than practicing anyway. “Tonight we’re gonna do a big dinner with the whole staff from the horse and the owner and the trainer,” Moro says as he proudly exits the winner’s circle. “We go to Baracca probably.” Get in line. ■
SIX THINGS TO DO IN SWITZERLAND— OFF THE SLOPES 1. SLEEP IN AN IGLOO Nearly six thousand feet up Engelberg’s Mt. Titlis stands Iglu-Dorf, a snow hotel erected every winter that sleeps 38 guests and boasts a top-shelf bar and outdoor Jacuzzi. We recommend the “Romantic Plus” suite, which includes a private toilet, fondue dinner and guided snowshoe hike. Worried about the cold? The fur-lined couples sleeping bag is guaranteed to keep you warm down to negative 100 degrees Fahrenheit. If you still need to get your blood pumping, check out snowXpark next door, where you can race electric snowmobiles at speeds of up to 25 miles per hour. What’s the Swiss-German word for vroom vroom? iglu-dorf.com 2. LEARN HOW TO MAKE CHEESE ALONGSIDE MONKS
6. RIDE A BOBSLED If you’ve ever watched a bobsled race during the Olympics—or caught Cool Runnings on Netflix—and thought that it looked like fun, you’re in luck: The Olympia Bob Run in St. Moritz-Celerina offers what they call a “taxi ride.” Cram yourself between the handsome (and trained) pilot and the brakeman and hold on tight as you race down the 5,650-foot ice track at speeds of more than 80 miles per hour. That feeling in your stomach? That’s four Gs of centrifugal force, baby. And worth every Swiss franc. olympia-bobrun.ch
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Clockwise from top left: Platters of oysters are served in a VIP tent; St. Moritz, as seen from above; a spectator checks the leaderboard; horses are outfitted with special snow-gripping horseshoes; a jockey prepares for his first race of the day.
3. PARTY LIKE IT’S SWISS MARDI GRAS According to locals there are exactly five seasons in Lucerne: winter, spring, summer, fall and Carnival. Residents and tourists alike descend on Lake Lucerne at 5 a.m. for the start of February’s annual harvest festival, and the party begins with a bang. Fireworks light up the morning sky, streets become flooded with marching bands (called Guggenmusigen) and there are revelers outfitted in the kind of elaborate zombie costumes you might find on The Walking Dead. Make like a Swiss boss and buy a sausage from a street vendor. And when the sun rises head to the Hotel Schweizerhof to warm up with some mulled wine. If you squint you’ll feel like you’re in New Orleans—except with an eco-friendly Alpine twist. Look closely at the confetti raining down from the sky. It’s made from shredded copies of last year’s telephone books. luzern.com
5. WATCH A SKELETON RACE AT A PRIVATE CLUB The St. Moritz Tobogganing Club was founded in 1887, and everyone from President John F. Kennedy to Gianni Agnelli of Fiat has zipped headfirst down this frozen skeleton course. Rupert Wieloch, secretary of the SMTC, compares St. Moritz’s harrowing toboggan course to a woman. “I don’t want to sound sexist,” he says, “but if you treat her with a lack of respect, the Cresta Run will hurt you.” Luckily, you can sip a drink and watch the race alongside genial Cresta Club members, who are easy to spot thanks to their red-and-yellow scarves. The fun continues directly after at the Kulm Hotel’s Altitude Bar, where the club members are known to hang from the ceiling and tear curtains from the windows. cresta-run.com
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Within the hallowed halls of the Monastery Engelberg, a master of the dairy arts teaches visitors about curds and whey. (Fun fact: The holes in Swiss cheese are the result of gas.) The factory imports milk from something like 15 area farms. “The average Swiss citizen eats 25 pounds of chocolate every year,” the instructor informs us, “and 50 pounds of cheese.” If you need a nap after lunch, the Monks also offer surprisingly comfortable (and quiet) guest house accommodations. schaukaeserei-engelberg.ch
4. TOUR THE ALPS BY TRAIN The best way to see the Swiss Alps may be riding on a first-class train car with a glass of wine in hand. The Glacier Express travels from Zermatt to St. Moritz in seven hours. Book the Panorama Car (basically a high-end fish bowl on wheels) for the best views. Then make your way to the vintage dining car for a three-course meal. Bonus tip: Swiss Rail recently introduced its “Fly Rail Baggage” service. For $23 each way, you can check your skis at the airport in the States and pick them up at the train station in St. Moritz. Merci! glacierexpress.ch
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orrest Hayes didn’t die an ordinary death. In the fall of 2013, the executive at Google’s mysterious development facility, Google X, suffered a fatal heroin overdose on his yacht in Santa Cruz while in the company of a prostitute named Alix Tichelman. Not surprisingly, the story sent shock waves through insular Silicon Valley. The grisly tale painted an unseemly picture of tech-world excess and raised questions about whether the pressure of its huge-risksand-huge-rewards philosophy could ultimately prove too much for some to handle. But while the incident suggested a culture of hardened drug abuse and untenable work stress, a wider view of the drug climate in the industry today suggests something much more multifaceted. As it turns out, there’s not just one kind of burner. If you come anywhere close to making it in the tech industry, money is practically no object. Computerscience students are pulling down five-figure salaries for summer internships, and even the least impressive startups are awash in sweet venture capital funding. With profit and peril as dominating themes of daily life, drug use seems to be one of the most common ways to cope. “It’s the work culture that’s the risk factor for addiction, this unsustainable culture of energy and focus,” argues Dr. Jennifer Fernandez, a Bay Area clinical psychologist who has seen a pattern of stimulant use in her clients. “I think these people
really feel burnt out and they don’t have the bandwidth to cope, so the easy out is to have a drink or snort some Adderall. That’s going to keep them up for 12 more hours to finish an app, impress a boss, get a promotion and make more money. It’s a cycle.” To be certain, among his contemporaries Hayes was not alone in his behavior. “We had several clients panicked because it wasn’t just [Hayes] doing that activity, it was several others,” explains therapist Cali Estes. Estes sees the personality types of those who succeed in the field—typically driven and type A—as making them vulnerable to overconsumption as much as their work does. “In the tech industry there are a lot of people who were the smart kids in high school. They didn’t do drugs, they didn’t drink—they studied,” she says. “Now they have the yacht, the house, the job and the car. They have the white picket fence and they’re bored.” That boredom can incite a desire for experimentation that, when coupled with significant wealth, is much easier to pursue than it might ordinarily be. Such experimentation comes in many forms. On the high end of the hedonism spectrum are tony escort services and the Bronze Party, a Bay Area swinger’s club with a roster of techies and entrepreneurs drawn in by a sophisticated mobile platform and the magnetism of millionaire tech-veteran founder Ben Fuller. And, of course, there’s Burning Man, the nearly 30-year-old annual festival held in Black Rock City, Nevada, which has drawn Elon Musk, Jeff Bezos, Larry Page and Mark Zuckerberg, as well as legions of underlings from the likes of Reddit, Uber and Yahoo, to the desert setting famous for introspection and copious drug use. While the festival’s ethos of imagination and creation surely resonates with tech innovators, for many it’s the ubiquity of psychedelics that makes it worth a yearly pilgrimage. For formerly straight-laced computer nerds, all this can prove problematic—if not fatal. “In New York, finance has long been associated with the cocaine, work-hard-play-hard mentality,” offers Cody Salfen, a California-based private investigator. “I see Silicon Valley as a different type of person. [With tech workers,] I feel like a lot of them never got that experience.” Take for example millionaire investor Ravi Kumra who, in 2012, was murdered by gang members in his Monte Sereno mansion. The crime initially seemed inexplicable, but court filings later revealed that despite Kumra’s estimable background— he studied chemical engineering at the Indian Institute of Technology Delhi and was an early investor in cell phones—he had a predilection for drugs and booze and a string of sordid extramarital liaisons.
HIGH TECH
SILICON VALLEY IS A PLACE WHERE DREAMS CAN COME TRUE, BUT IT’S ALSO HOME TO A CULTURE OF RAMPANT DRUGS AND EXCESS–AND IT HAS A BODY COUNT
WRITTEN BY ADRIENNE GAFFNEY ILLUSTRATED BY PAUL DAVIS
I
“THEY DON’T HAVE THE BANDWIDTH TO COPE, SO THE EASY OUT IS TO HAVE A DRINK OR SNORT SOME ADDERALL.”
SUBSTANCE ABUSE IS NOTHING NEW and drugs have long been part of the tech industry’s DNA. Before today’s thriving party scene or Sean Parker’s infamous 2005 arrest for felony possession of cocaine, no less than Steve Jobs spoke about using psychedelics multiple times in the early 1970s, going as far as to say, “taking LSD was a profound experience, one of the most important things in my life.” Even the impossibly straight-laced seeming Bill Gates has himself confessed to a period of drug use in the early years of his career.
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(These days, things are a bit different; when approached regarding this story, Yahoo, Google and Apple all declined to comment on any policies for addressing substance abuse within their companies.) While drug users go to lengths to keep their habits under the radar, it seems ironic that in many places alcohol is highly integrated into the workplace. Hosting cocktail hour can help boost an office culture, something that many new start-ups see as critical, and can also help blur the line between on and off hours. The software start-up Twilio, recently valued at $1.1 billion, features an office beer fridge and liquor cabinet, and the mixing of cocktails is said to often be underway by 5 p.m. Dropbox has weekly staff happy hours nicknamed Whiskey Fridays, and Yelp’s HQ boasts a keg refrigerator and a bottomless beer policy. Incidentally, a 2015 report shows Santa Clara County having California’s highest increase in binge drinking, with the counties of Santa Cruz and San Francisco falling not far behind. Alcohol consumption might be popular across the board, but often times tech workers’ drug preferences depend on their professional specialties. “There’s an interesting balance between those companies that are intellectually curious and interested in ideas versus those that are kind of built around a bro culture,” says one tech entrepreneur who has seen colleagues partake in psychedelics with the aim of mind expansion. “If you’re in a sales position and you know you’re rewarded based on your ability to close a deal, you might exhibit Wolf of Wall Street–type behavior. If you’re an engineer and your job is to solve complex mathematical problems, you might [look for] experiences with MDMA.” Local lore holds that some leaders even go as far as actively fostering this behavior themselves; the entrepreneur mentions a start-up CEO who plans quarterly trips for his whole team to take acid together as a group. To hear some industry engineers tell it, however, their advanced knowledge of the science of substances is a key element that allows them to enjoy themselves with an added layer of confidence. “I think engineers have a more scientific process by which they go about doing drugs,” says an executive at a consumer-facing tech company, who recounts a colleague inviting him to partake in a batch of ketamine ordered off of the now-defunct online drug market Silk Road. “The way that they talked me into it was basically a chemistry lesson,” by explaining to him exactly what chemicals went into the drugs and the effect they would have on his body. Aiding others in feeling safer are dark-web services modeled off of Silk Road, which allow buyers to leave reviews and feedback evaluating the strains that they’ve purchased on things like purity and effectiveness. This executive sees a good deal of forethought going into the drug habits of his friends and colleagues. “We’re talking about people that have a lot of science or math in their backgrounds [and] probably are willing to do more research,” he explains. “There are a lot of great resources online that talk about the chemistry [of drugs] and the known effects on your brain.” Every individual has his own approach to drug culture, but there’s at least one common thread across the industry. “Silicon Valley is a really dynamic environment, and…everyone’s just working on a dream,” says Mark Onsager, a San Jose–based therapist, himself a recovering addict. “It’s very don’t-ask, don’t-tell as it relates to addiction.” When a high-profile executive overdoses, it might make waves in the media, but when it comes to openly discussing the drug culture that seems to have the tech industry in a vice grip, that’s where the line is drawn. Asked whether it’s something people could ever talk about at some of the most progressive companies in the world, one entrepreneur laughs and says, “I don’t think we’re there yet.” ■
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f the culture of the tech industry doesn’t drive people to experiment with drugs, the tasks required of its workers might. “A lot of it is not only the pressure or the hours. It’s that technology is repetitive. You learn something, you do it, the project’s done. There’s a let down with that. When you saw the Google Glass completion, drug use went up,” Estes explains. “Once the product launches, the guys relax a little, they celebrate and party. This is when they’ll go to Vegas for the weekend, they’ll go do something fun… strippers, cocaine, that kind of stuff.” Sometimes things get even more dangerous. According to Estes, when it comes to on-the-job use, heroin and prescription drugs have a more devoted following than uppers like cocaine, which comes into play after hours. “The interesting thing is, on the cocaine they really can’t work,” she says, citing the paranoia and distraction that come along with the drug. “But on heroin and [opiate prescriptions] they’re somewhat able to function. Heroin makes you warm and fuzzy, focusable and you can work. Are you super-productive? No. But you still can function.” That ability to maintain appearances often lets the behavior continue until a breaking point is reached. “No one really knows they’re using until they start missing work or they end up overdosing,” says Estes. This hints at the phenomenon of microdosing, which is particularly popular with psychedelics. Rather than getting fully high, with very low doses users are able to get the most of effects like increased focus, greater creativity and improved mood from a drug without becoming incapacitated. This method is especially prevalent when it comes to somewhat retro indulgences like LSD or MDMA. “It’s escapism but with a different goal, to remove yourself temporarily from the perceived constraints around a problem,” says a former Google employee who, like many others in this story, asked for professional reasons not to be named. “When you put yourself in an alternate state of mind, you’re training yourself to think differently and find a potential business solution to a tech-world problem.” In that same vein are “smart drugs,” a class of supplements and pills popular in the tech industry and believed to improve concentration, focus and memory. Creating custom cocktails of the substances, which include the anti-narcolepsy prescription modafinil as well as natural supplements called nootropics, to maximize the cognitive benefits has become an obsession for many looking to enhance their work performance. Computer programmer Jesse Lawler stumbled upon modafinil several years ago. Now he takes a constantly evolving mix in the neighborhood of 10 pills daily, which can include everything from fish oil to sulbutiamine, a synthetic form of vitamin B1, and the cognition enhancer aniracetam. “I don’t take the same thing everyday, and I feel like if I did it would just become the new normal,” he says. “But what I really like is feeling like I have my Batman tool belt of these different drugs, knowing how each one is going to affect me. Then depending on what my needs are for the day, as far as mental clarity, relaxation or whatever it is, I’ve got these little things to give me a boost in the direction I’m interested in.”
LIVE YOUR LEGEND TRANQUIL LUXURY ON THE EDGE OF TIMES SQUARE. THE KNICKERBOCKER, REBORN 2015
6 TIMES SQUARE, NEW YORK, NY 10036 / 855 865 6425 / THEKNICKERBOCKER.COM / #LIVEYOURLEGEND
CITIES CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
WAVE OF THE FUTURE
La Mer and Baccarat team up to create a full-service spa
EDITED BY NATASHA WOLFF
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baccarathotels.com
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Luxe sea-kelp-based skin-care brand La Mer has opened its first spa in the U.S. at the Baccarat Hotel & Residences in Midtown Manhattan. Opulent services—like a bespoke, 90-minute La Mer Baccarat Facial ($350), with a diamond-powder exfoliation and warming facial massage using Baccarat stones— harness the healing energies of the sea to help guests relax. “La Mer worked with Baccarat in Paris to create this ultimate sensorial experience,” says Joanne Hsieh, La Mer’s general manager for spas. “Red crystals will bring warmth, energy and stimulation, which will help with fatigue, while blue crystals will bring tranquility to help smooth the skin.” Designed by the hospitality firm Gilles & Boissier to evoke a European seaside retreat, the urban oasis tucked away below the hotel’s entrance features marble and white-washed wood floors, spacious locker rooms and four treatment areas, along with a grand 50-foot indoor pool. After a visit to this intimate urban shelter, you’ll believe the sea has restorative powers indeed. 28 West 53rd Street;
ASPEN
→ Trisha Gregory and Alexandra Lind Rose are hosting The Armarium Chalet, a pop-up shop for their new luxury wardrobe-styling and clothing-rental service, Armarium, at the St. Regis beginning December 28. armarium.com
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
MILE-HIGH MODERN RH’s newest Design Gallery has
opened in Denver. The revolutionary retail concept features RH’s most comprehensive collection of luxury furnishings, including its new RH Modern furniture. 2900 East 1st Avenue, Denver; rh.com
On the Rocks
Talk about Colorado spirit! Carbondale’s Marble Distilling Co. is now producing Crystal River Vodka 80, the country’s first handcrafted spirit filtered through Yule marble. The eco-friendly facility, which makes Moonlight EXpresso and Gingercello liqueurs, also features five elegant hotel rooms with views of 13,000-foot Mount Sopris. “MDC has brought a buzz to downtown Carbondale that you can experience by walking through the doors and touring the distillery,” says owner and distiller Connie Baker. 150 Main
Its name might espouse simplicity, but Meat & Cheese, a lauded new 40-seat restaurant and regional farm stand from the owners of Avalanche Cheese Co., is offering some very impressive dishes for dining in or takeout. We love the rotisserie-chicken board, charcuterie platter and brisket sandwich. “We take chances on the menu and try to make the kind of food that other people aren’t making,” says owner Wendy Mitchell, “like Vietnamese chicken noodle salad, goat curry and rice dumplings with pork and hot sauce.” 319 East Hopkins Avenue; meatandcheeseaspen.com
ASPEN DEBUTANTS
Aspen’s celebrated literary community has a home in Aspen Words, a program of The Aspen Institute, and in 2016, two of its members will release their debut novels. Local writer Mark Tompkins will publish The Last Days of Magic with Viking Penguin and Alexandra Oliva’s The Last One will be released in 17 countries by Ballantine. Here, they explain what makes the town great for writers.
MARK TOMPKINS
ALEXANDRA OLIVA
MOUNTAIN CONNECTIONS
“I had the pleasure of meeting Carole DeSanti, vice president and executive editor at Viking Penguin, at Aspen Winter Words and told her about The Last Days of Magic.”
“I met my agent, Lucy Carson, at Aspen Summer Words, and she helped me land at my perfect-fit publisher, Ballantine.”
THE ASPEN FACTOR
“Aspen infuses everything. It is such a great place to write—which was a big factor in my decision to move here.”
Street, Carbondale; marbledistilling.com
“Aspen’s been a boon for me both professionally and creatively. I met my agent here and later returned for a residency with the Catto Shaw Foundation.”
CREATIVE SPACES
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“Victoria’s Espresso, where I do much of my reading and writing. Without their caffeine and pastries, I may have never finished the novel.”
“My first-ever author event was held at the Woody Creek Community Center. It was a warm, supportive environment—a very positive first.”
RH: COURTESY; MARBLE DISTILLING CO.: GREG DIDIER; MEAT & CHEESE: JIM PAUSSA; TOMPKINS: SIGRID ESTRADA; OLIVA: LYNN PAUL
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Perfect Plates
Keane coffee table, $2,595, rhmodern.com
CHICAGO
→ Steppenwolf Theatre Company channels The Good Wife with Domesticated, a comedy about a politician and the woman who stands behind him after an affair. steppenwolf.org
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Hall Pass
The Loop ups the chic factor with the arrival of Madison Hall
HEALING HANDS
Three unique businesses that specialize in healthful indulgence have recently launched in Chicago. All three let you book services with a touch of your finger. Herewith, our pampering primer.
REFRESH
refreshbody.com
LUSH WINE AND SPIRIT: MITCH EINHORN; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY
GLASS ACTS
For those seeking the ultimate liquor gift to give this season, look no further than Lush Wine and Spirits’ customized whiskeys. Lush, with locations in West Town and Roscoe Village, has collaborated with Four Roses and Knob Creek, among others, to create limited-edition bottles that are a sophisticated choice for any hard-to-buyfor friend. “We partnered with craft distilleries to produce one-of-a-kind spirits,” says owner Mitch Einhorn. “We like to offer our customers something special they can’t get anywhere else.” lushwineandspirits.com
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Don’t visit the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel looking to buy workout gear. Jim Wetzel (left) and Lance Lawson (right), owners of luxury “general store” Space519, have brought their style smarts to the Loop with Madison Hall, a retail destination inside the hot new hotel. The shop features a well-edited selection of the globe’s best finds and sells everything from edgy men’s and women’s fashion to high-end apothecary goods and stunning coffee-table books. “We love the idea of putting modern product into what feels like a very traditional environment,” says Lawson, of working within the historic building. “It is a very cool and attention-grabbing juxtaposition. And for us, after doing five previous retail spaces, it was so fun to go over the top.” 71 East Madison Street; madisonhallchicago.com
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How it works: Through an app or online, you can book massage, yoga, Pilates or mindfulness sessions in your home or office, ranging from 60 to 120 minutes. Prices start at $105 per hour.
SOOTHE
soothe.com How it works: Soothe sends a certified massage therapist to your home, office or hotel room, with as little as an hour’s notice. Choose from Swedish, deep tissue, sports and couple’s massage for a fixed fee that includes gratuity and taxes. Prices start at $99.
ZEEL
zeel.com How it works: Zeel massages
can be requested through the Zeel app or online. Options include Swedish, deep tissue, prenatal, sports and couple’s massage— available for 60, 75 or 90 minutes. Prices start at $99.
CHICAGO Cuffs with Karma
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lemajdesign.com
Stingray and polished pearl cuffs, $335–$535
Frock Stars
Mark your calendars for February, when the Near North’s Driehaus Museum introduces “Dressing Downton: Changing Fashion for Changing Times.” Featuring more than 35 award-winning costumes
—many boasting original fabrics from the hit series Downton Abbey—many and embellishments from the early 20th century—the exhibition offers a fashion-lover’s perspective on the show’s most memorable characters, both upstairs and down, while chronicling a tumultuous era in British history. “We are looking forward to seeing the memories the costumes will evoke in visitors, as well as showcasing the artistry and craftsmanship of the costumes,” says Lise Dubé-Scherr, the Driehaus’s executive director. “Clothing, whether historical or costumes such as the ones from Downton Abbey, is both a reflection of, and a response to, the times in which it is created.” Fashion and history with a dash of pop culture thrown in the mix? Count us in. 40 East Erie Street; driehausmuseum.org
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Overnight Sensation
The Peninsula Chicago, known for its tony restaurants, swanky spa and A-list clientele, has completed the first stage of a room-renovation process that is taking the upscale destination to new heights. The overhaul has introduced customized digital tablets, built-in desks and vanities in Macassar wood and specially designed Pratesi linens, among other touches. “I think guests will enjoy the overall design of the rooms and the technology,” says general manager Maria Razumich-Zec. “There is a luxurious residential appeal to them.” 108 East Superior Street; chicago.peninsula.com
ALL IMAGES COURTESY
Sold at high-end local stores like Material Possessions and Sabbia, Lema J Design’s bold stingray and python cuffs were created by Chicagoan Jill Becker and her sister Jenny Benscher in honor of Jill’s 21-year-old daughter Cara, who passed away in 2012 from leukemia. “Lema J started as a labor of love,” says Becker. “It makes me feel connected to my daughter and my sister.” All Lema J’s profits go to the Becker family’s Karma for Cara Foundation, which inspires youth to engage in community service and provides assistance to families dealing with cancer. Even more notable? With every purchase of the special “Karma for Cara” cuff, in Cara’s favorite orange color, a cancer patient also receives one. “Just last week I got an e-mail from a survivor saying that when she wore it, she felt stronger and more confident,” says Becker. “That brought tears to my eyes.”
DALLAS/FORT WORTH
→ In April, the Nasher Sculpture Center debuts the Nasher Prize, awarded to an artist who has shaped the world of sculpture. This year’s winner is Doris Salcedo.
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Food for Thought From Southern specialties to a socially conscious cafe, three local eateries are making their mark
FORKS UP
Matt McCallister’s Filament is all about Southern roots. The menu at the Deep Ellum eatery highlights the diversity of the region’s cuisine, something McCallister knows plenty about. “I grew up eating a lot of preparations my mom drew from the cooking of her grandmother,” he says. So thank his forebearers for dishes like fried sepia tacos with green papaya slaw and a hot catfish sandwich on Pullman bread. And don’t miss out on a spot at the 24-seat bar, where you can sample from Filament’s 100plus bottles of wine, craft beer on tap or selection of seasonal cocktails.
2626 Main Street; filamentdallas.com
CAFE MOMENTUM: ROBERT BOSTICK; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY
Buzz Feed
Six years ago, Chad Houser visited a Dallas County juvenile-detention facility and taught eight young men to make ice cream for a competition at the Dallas Farmers Market. Three years later, he left his job and began pursuing Café Momentum, a restaurant that offers post-release paid internships for juvenile offenders. The program now has a full-time brick-and-mortar home, and during a 12-month period, the young men work through five stations in the restaurant, each with an attached curriculum that covers basic culinary duties along with applicable life skills. “So many important lessons can be learned in washing dishes, waiting tables and everything else in between,” says Houser. There are nearly 6,500 kids who enter the Dallas County juvenile system every year, and Houser says, “I hope we build enough restaurants to work with all of them.” 1510 Pacific Street; cafemomentum.org
ÊFOR MORE ON DALLAS/FORT WORTH, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES
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As its name suggests, Lowest Greenville’s Rapscallion—a collaboration among siblings Brooks and Bradley Anderson and chef Nathan Tate (also the trio behind the Bishop Arts bistro Boulevardier)—doesn’t play by the rules. Tate and chef de cuisine Jonathan Peters mix up down-home cooking with unexpected modern touches for dishes including Nashville-style hot chicken smothered with Szechuan mala sauce; a grass-fed burger with three-cheese pimiento, house pepper bacon, creole mustard and spiced sweet-potato chips; and coriander-cured yellowtail with green tomato, corn bread and scallion oil. There’s also a raw bar, packed with a rotating list of oysters and other seafood specialties. Just as the dinner menu uses select products from Tate’s family farm, the libations stick close to home with a list of all-American wine and beer as well as an ever-changing array of cocktails. In fact, it’s those beverages that helped earn the eatery its name. “Lowest Greenville is famous for being a bit of a boozy entertainment district full of rapscallions,” Brooks Anderson says, “so it all just worked.” 2023 Greenville Avenue; dallasrapscallion.com
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DINNER IS SERVED
DALLAS/FORT WORTH GOING STAG
Menswear destination Stag made a splash last year when it opened a shop in Venice, but the Austin-based brand’s most recent expansion landed closer to home. The 1,300-square-foot space in the Knox-Henderson neighborhood is host to a mix of dapper apparel and accessories, including Red Wing boots, Filson watches, grooming essentials and more. The store—which will move to a bigger space on Cole Street in the spring— also carries lines from Faherty Brand, RRL Ralph Lauren, Jack Spade and Save Khaki. “Finding a location situated amongst a diverse and interesting mix of shops and restaurants was important to us,” says co-owner Steve Shuck. “We’ll be introducing new brands that make sense for a strong fashion market like Dallas.” 4539 Travis Street; stagprovisions.com Calf-hair clutch, $875
ALL IMAGES COURTESY
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IN THE BAG
Fashion wasn’t Allison Mitchell’s first love. The handbag designer began her career not in a closet but in a kitchen, where she worked for top-notch toques including Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. “I was always intimidated by the fashion world,” she says now. But when Mitchell wasn’t able to find the clutch of her dreams, she crafted her own—in faux-ostrich embossed vinyl, no less. After friends began asking for their own, Mitchell produced her first pieces in colorful calf hair, marking the beginning of what has become a one-of-a-kind bag line. Interest snowballed from there. “When the buyer at Elements tells you she’ll buy 10 of your bags on the spot,” Mitchell says, “you take that and run with it.”
allisonmitchell.com
Jessica Jesse has modeled for Hubert de Givenchy and worked with Valentino Garavani, but her latest accomplishment is launching her own accessories line, Budhagirl. Today, the well-curated selection is sourced around the globe. “We know all of our manufacturers. What’s more is we spend time with them, eat with them and even visit their homes,” says Jesse. Each piece skirts the line between being stylish and spiritual, and the must-haves include a set of bangles enclosed with prayer beads. This is one line that helps create a beautiful life, inside and out. budhagirl.com
Bracelets, $65
JACKSON POLLOCK: “BLIND SPOTS”
Call it the drip of a lifetime! This winter, the Dallas Museum of Art is exhibiting the largest-ever compilation of Pollock’s so-called black paintings, which were crafted with black enamel and oil on untreated canvas. Known mainly for his vibrant Abstract Expressionist masterpieces, Pollock is represented here from a different perspective: The anticipated survey features pieces—including some thought to be missing—that have not been shown in more than five decades. The artist’s drip paintings and ink, enamel and watercolor works, as well as five of his six existing sculptures, are also on view. Through March 20. 1717 North Harwood Street; dma.org
POLLOCK: © 2015 THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION / ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY
Look Good, Feel Better
HOUSTON
→ The Upper Kirby District Foundation gave more than $12 million to transform Levy Park into a world-class urban space, which will be unveiled in March.
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
River Oaks District Report RINGING IN CHOPARD
As the multi-use development River Oaks District evolves, stores like Chopard continue to fill the retail powerhouse. “Houston has become an epicenter for luxury,” says Ralph Simons, Chopard’s CEO for North America. “We’re thrilled to launch our first boutique in Texas, and we look forward to welcoming friends into our stunning new home.” The 1,230-square-foot store really does feel like home, with plush furniture and wood floors and walls. And there’s a special timepiece to celebrate the opening. The Happy Texas Limited Edition Sport watch features trios of sapphires and rubies with a diamond star—but there are only 25 to be had. 4444 Westheimer Road; us.chopard.com Fleurs d’Opales opal, sapphire, garnet, amethyst and white gold ring, price upon request
COS IT’S COOL
Meanwhile, Diptyque is burning up its River Oaks District jewel box with the La Collection 34 and Oud Palao scents. “This boutique in Houston’s new premier shopping destination will build the customer experience by allowing guests to explore our full range of offerings,” says Donna DiDonato, the brand’s U.S. managing director. That means those decadent designer candles (in glass that deserves repurposing after burning), parfums, soaps, body care and more.
4444 Westheimer Road; diptyqueparis.com
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Inspired by art and design, Swedish fashion label Cos (shorthand for Collection of Style) will unveil its first Texas outpost at River Oaks District—just a year after its U.S. debut. The 4,380-square-foot corner site “provided us with the ideal location,” says managing director Marie Honda, to highlight the brand’s “clean and understated” designs.
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4444 Westheimer Road; cosstores.com
DIGGING DIPTYQUE
Vitrail Photophore and Oiseaux Photophore votives, each $160
Top, $125; skirt, $115; dress, $190
ALL IMAGES COURTESY
Where Form Meets Function
Polished concrete and oak inlay top and powder-coated steel base Duo table, $3,500
Born and raised in a small Wyoming town, artist Cory Wagner later relocated to the Lone Star State for a sculpture professorship at the University of Houston. But it’s his business, DumpTruck Design, that’s reshaping city hot spots like Karbach Brewing Co. and Oxheart with custom furniture and fixtures.“We have reclaimed a great deal of wood by carefully disassembling old homes slated for demolition in the Heights,” he says. Celebrating its fifth anniversary in January, the company, which seeks to use sustainably produced, recycled or reclaimed materials as much as possible, also collaborates with creative agencies like Primer Grey. Wagner occasionally crosses state lines for special projects, including his recent endeavor building Wagner’s Outdoor Outfitters, his brother’s new Casper, Wyoming, store. dumptruckdesign.net ÊFOR MORE ON HOUSTON, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES
HOUSTON BOTTLED UP
Why beauty?
Post Oak Road; yellowrosedistilling.com
Best Foot Forward
Like most girls, I always enjoyed playing with makeup. When I graduated from Texas Tech, I landed my first job at Neiman Marcus. Although I loved fashion, one of my early placements was in beauty. I was hooked! What makes Cover FX different?
What originally attracted me to the brand was its commitment to the global shade palette. With so many multicultural people in the world today, it was exciting to see a company determined to meet the needs of underserved shoppers. Custom Cover Drops, $44 (above); Custom Infusion Drops, $48, sephora.com
What should Houstonians have in their makeup bags this season?
Our new Custom Infusion Drops. Following the success of Custom Cover Drops, we’re launching a new line of vitamin-infused drops that allow you to customize your skin-care routine. With the weather changing and our skin changing with it, this is the perfect time to take advantage of these brilliant little boosters. What is your holy-grail product?
Cover FX Mattifying Primer—I’m obsessed!
QUARTERBACK COOL
A new line of artisan accessories, Revisit, is making its mark by giving 25 percent of profits to preserve national parks. The unisex brand is the brainchild of Woodlands-based designer Jillian DiIorio (a former executive at Estée Lauder and Toms) and her partner, Brent Celek (a tight end for the Philadelphia Eagles), and features goods like iPad sleeves, journals and hand-sewn leather bags. “We grew up going to parks like Big Bend, and the government is no longer able to help preserve them,” DiIorio explains. “So we said, ‘Let’s do something and give back on a larger scale.’ ” revisitproducts.com Washburn Weekender bag, $975
A fixture on the social scene, Joyce Echols knows that shoes can make or break an outfit. “I used to see these beautiful shoes,” she says, “but always wanted something to be different.” So she set to work for two years on a footwear collection, and finally debuted her booties, loafers and stilettos this fall. Designed in Texas and made in Italy, her creations have flourishes like faux barbed wire. Fear not: “They don’t look cowgirl,” she says. “They’re classic shapes.” joyceechols.com Sandal, $829, at Tootsies, 713-629-9990
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Dallas native Sharon Collier spent many years working on the business side of beauty in New York City before settling in Houston in 1996 as the second hire at Laura Mercier. As president and CEO, she helped build the beloved brand into a beauty empire over 15 years— and that’s why Cover FX recruited her as CEO in 2011. Collier is currently growing the company from cult favorite among makeup artists to household name, rebranding Cover FX with new packaging, healthier formulations and innovative products like Custom Cover Drops—pigments that can be added to any product. Here’s what she shared with DuJour:
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Skin Care Uncovered
Houston has a reputation for being a food town, but it’s also home to thriving new beverage companies. Yellow Rose Distilling, the city’s first legal whiskey distillery, handcrafts four distinctive spirits—including two bourbons. Started in 2012 by three friends wanting to “create something different,” the microdistillery will grow from 1,000 cases to 15,000 by 2016, says co-owner Ryan Baird. “People may try to copy something similar to Kentucky bourbon, but we didn’t,” he says. “You can pick our Outlaw Bourbon [made of all corn] out in a crowd.” 1224 North
LAS VEGAS
→ Bellagio’s new Pablo Picasso exhibit, running through January 10, includes a work that’s never been displayed publicly before. It’s a portrait of Dora Maar, one of the artist’s lovers. bellagio.com
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Pavé the Way Stuart Weitzman’s sexy, strappy Nudist sandal is a favorite of globe-trotting A-listers like Lady Gaga, Gisele and Gigi Hadid. But it’s Las Vegas that’s gotten its own special version of this minimal masterpiece. The city, after all, is a meaningful place for Weitzman—it’s where the designer opened his first U.S. retail boutique back in 1993. “Las Vegas, with its sparkling lights and glamorous appeal, seemed like the ideal location to launch our limited-edition pavé Nudist collection,” says Weitzman, who created the Swarovski-crystal patternencrusted line in celebration of his newly renovated Forum Shops location at Caesars. “The Nudist is the perfect barely-there stiletto for every occasion.”
3500 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Bet on Red Sauce
Swarovski crystal sandal, $2,735, stuartweitzman.com
Boulevard South; theshopsatcrystals.com Suede laser cut pump, $1,045
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BEYOND BOTTLE SERVICE
Former Light Group CEO Andy Masi has built some of the Strip’s glitziest nightclubs, but now he’s focused on chef-driven cuisine, cutting-edge cocktails and civilized conversation. To wit, his new Clique Hospitality has opened chef Luciano Sautto’s Salute at the Red Rock casino. (11011 West Charleston Boulevard; redrock.sclv.com) The idea for the southern Italian restaurant was born when Masi ran into Station Casinos CEO Frank Fertitta III while dining in Capri. “It’s lighter and fresher ingredients than what you typically get in Vegas, a lot of seafood,” Masi says. The scene-maker is also focused on the winter debut of his mixology-driven Clique lounge at The Cosmopolitan. (3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South; cosmopolitanlasvegas.com) “Not everyone wants a big club experience,” he says. “There’s a market of people who want something more sophisticated.” cliquehospitality.com
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French accessories label Christian Louboutin describes its new boutique at the Shops at Crystals as an “abstract oasis in the heart of the desert,” a forest-themed sanctuary featuring a black-and-white facade with reclaimed wood. It’s a typical stroke of imagination from a brand whose current collection of men’s and women’s shoes, handbags and accessories offers a combination of extravagance and elegance through rich fabrics and bold colors. 3720 Las Vegas
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ENCHANTED FOREST
The New York City powerdining spot Carbone, a haven for marinara-drenched bliss, is serving seconds, bringing its glorious pastas and colossal veal parm to Aria. Like the original Greenwich Village outpost from partners Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick, the Vegas Carbone is simultaneously of-the-moment and classic. “Vegas has always felt like an appropriate and exciting home for Carbone,” says Zalaznick. “The midcentury style of ItalianAmerican food and service that we celebrate in New York has always been welcome in Vegas as well.” But the Aria restaurant, spanning almost 10,000 square feet, is bigger than the New York eatery and has a design influenced by the rich history of Vegas’ Rat Pack era. “This is not a replica,” chef Mario Carbone says. “It evokes the soul of Carbone and the food of Carbone, but this is a Carbone that is built for Las Vegas.” 3730 Las Vegas Boulevard South; aria.com
LAS VEGAS
THERE’S NO BUSINESS LIKE SHOW BUSINESS
Steve Wynn’s ShowStoppers production is exhilarating: a collection of the most memorable, crowd-pleasing numbers from classic Broadway shows like Cabaret, Guys and Dolls, A Chorus Line and Annie Get Your Gun. With 66 singers and dancers—including many veterans of the stage, the screen and dance-competition TV shows—plus a full orchestra bringing timeless songs to life, there’s razzle-dazzle to spare at Wynn’s Encore Theater. It’s a deeply personal creation and a tremendous source of pride for Wynn, who conceived ShowStoppers, handpicked songs and sat through auditions to make sure everything was coming up roses. 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South; wynnlasvegas.com
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There’s plenty to choose from at MacDonald Highlands (macdonaldhighlands.com), the elite community in Henderson where developer Rich MacDonald has put his final lineup of custom home sites on the market (below right). The 230 lots are priced at an average of around $1 million, with the most gargantuan properties exceeding $5 million. “Rich MacDonald saved the best for last,” says sales director Kristen Routh-Silberman of Synergy Sotheby’s International Realty. “They all have the most beautiful views of the Strip, the valley and the mountains. They are panoramic, jaw-dropping.” For Vegas, this is truly life at the top—MacDonald Highlands, known for its modern architecture, is in a stunning setting 3,300 feet above the city. “Rich really had such a big vision. Nobody ever thought he could build on the mountains like he did,” RouthSilberman says of the “fully amenitized country-club community,” which includes its own golf course, tennis courts, restaurant and swimming and spa facilities. This new upscale housing inventory comes at a moment when Vegas
real estate is hitting unseen heights. Over on the Strip, broker Kamran Zand of Luxury Estates International recently sold a 2,755- square-foot condo at The Residences at Mandarin Oriental
(3750 Las Vegas Boulevard South; mandarinoriental.com) for $3.4 million (above). That’s the highest price ever per square foot—$1,234—for a resale unit in the high-rise. “The ultra-high-end market is doing great,” Zand says. “Mandarin Oriental is the most soughtafter building in town. The location is excellent, in the heart of the Strip in CityCenter. You’re walking distance to the best shopping, world-class entertainment and fine dining, as well as the new Las Vegas arena—a big plus if we get NBA and hockey teams.”
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The Highlands High Life
46 BRANDS. 25 UNIQUE TO MARKET | THESHOPSATCRYSTALS.COM
LOS ANGELES
→ After a $125 million renovation, the Petersen Automotive Museum in Beverly Hills puts the pedal to the metal once again when it reopens in December, showcasing its ultra-rare car collection. petersen.org
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
ECLECTIC EATERIES
Shark Tank put now-thriving food-truck biz Cousins Maine Lobster on the map so successfully that the brand launched an actually-on-the-map location in West Hollywood. “Opening our first brick-andmortar was very important to us,” says co-founder Sabin Lomac. “We wanted to create a Maine lobster-shack feel and have the most welcoming Maine vibe. Serving our delicacies in a place like this was our vision.” (8593 Santa Monica Boulevard; cousinsmainelobster.com) Getting thoroughly Kundalini-ed at the new mega-size yoga studio Wanderlust Hollywood (above) works up more than a spiritual appetite, so celebrity chef Seamus Mullen aims to nourish body and soul with his in-house café. “Food and wellness are really important to everything
I do,” says Mullen, who is eager “to bring those two things together in a single space and create a menu for somebody who values an active lifestyle.” (1357 Highland Avenue; wanderlusthollywood.com) Hatchet Hall, the latest addition to Culver City’s culinary scene, brings a sense of rustic retreat both in entrées and environs. “We have lots of friends who are fishermen or foragers,” says chef Brian Dunsmoor. “They’ll drop off random stuff and we write the menu every morning accordingly.” The woodsy, taxidermy-adorned “old-man bar,” says general manager Jonathan Strader, recalls “a place that you’d go and hide from your family and get drunk.” (12517 West Washington Boulevard; hatchethallla.com)
Kauai Not?
The SoCal-bred daughter of surf legend Al Merrick, LA-based designer Heidi Merrick is intimately familiar with Pacific surf culture. She found inspiration for her exclusive line at Kauai’s St. Regis Princeville Resort, her home away from home. “I wanted to capture the beauty and spirit of the island, and showcasing the unforgettable view from the resort immediately came to mind as a way to do that,” says Merrick, who incorporated the seascape into her rash-guard design. Surfing, she says, is “woven into the fabric of the Hawaiian people, who are so beautiful and have made the sport what it is.” stregisprinceville.com Rash guard, $230, heidimerrick.com
Alphabet City
Following the launch of its Melrose Place boutique, Parisian label A.P.C. has added a second and third outpost, each unique in its design. The downtown location took over two identical, adjacent spaces, creating a symmetrical sensibility accented by totems dividing the men’s and women’s collections. The triangular Silver Lake shop’s curving bay window (right) complements the selections with a panoramic view of the Hollywood cityscape. Vive la différence! 25 West Ninth Street; 3517 Sunset Boulevard; apc.fr
A.P.C.: TAIYO WATANABE; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY
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From lobster-shack chic to hunting-lodge haute cuisine, L.A.’s newest restaurants find influences from all over
The Perfect Weekend in Ojai Known for its Mediterranean climate and calm, country feeling, Ojai is home to vineyards, hot springs, swimming holes and beautiful hiking trails—and is the perfect destination for escaping Los Angeles. Here are some of our favorite spots WHERE TO STAY
The Ojai Valley Inn & Spa 1 offers a top-of-the-line resort experience, featuring four swimming pools, an expansive golf course and a renowned restorative spa. “At the heart of our vision is our desire to elevate the guest experience,” says marketing director Chris Kandziora, “adding contemporary touches while remembering the historic character and integrity of this destination.” Perhaps that’s why the scenic spot has played host to star-studded nuptials, including those of Jimmy Kimmel and Kate Walsh. (ojairesort.com)
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WHERE TO SHOP
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(shopsummercamp.com) WHERE TO EAT
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After you’ve worked up an appetite, check out local favorite Deer Lodge, beloved for its rustic decor and live music. (deerlodgeojai.com) Or drop by Chief’s Peak 3 , a bar that offers an eclectic selection of craft beers and artisanal snacks, operated by the Ojai Rancho Inn team. “It’s a bar where you would feel equally comfortable having a drink alone or meeting new friends,” explains co-owner Chris Sewell. (ojairanchoinn.com) Feeling peckish? Nothing beats the woodoven pizza at The Farmer and the Cook 5 , which boasts homegrown fare and an adjoining health shop. The place is practically a second home for many locals. (farmerandcook.com) —AMELIA FLEETWOOD
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If it’s a retail fix you’re after, there’s no shortage of local boutiques. At In the Field 4 , husband-and-wife owners Channon and Bianca Roe stock stunning, bohemian-inspired interior design finds. “We’re attracted to lines that are made in the USA, by friends and local artisans,” says Bianca. (inthefieldojai.com) And don’t miss the charming lifestyle shop Summer Camp 2 , which owner Michael Graves says is “inspired by our love for midcentury design and the outdoors.” Expect nostalgic indoor pieces and a wide array of eye-catching flora.
MIAMI
→ For its 30th anniversary gala on January 23, Miami City Ballet will channel its forthcoming production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, a deep-sea rendition of George Balanchine’s masterpiece. miamicityballet.org
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
FIRST IN GLASS
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A pair of modern properties are coming to two of Miami’s top enclaves
Based in New York, JMH Development knew it needed a Miami insider for Three Hundred Collins, a boutique building in the South of Fifth neighborhood. They found their man in Thomas Juul-Hansen, a Dane who studied architecture at University of Miami. “He’s familiar with the city’s unique architectural landscape,” says managing partner Jason Halpern, who describes Juul-Hansen’s 19-unit modern retreat of glass, white oak and stone as a work of art. “I’m especially fond of the rooftop deck’s 75-foot saltwater pool.” 300 Collins Avenue; 300collins.com
Residents of Palazzo Del Sol’s 47 floor-through units on Fisher Island are going to have some pretty jealous neighbors thanks to developer Heinrich Von Hanau. Whereas the private island’s other condominiums offer few amenities that don’t require a golf cart ride to Fisher Island Club, the new tower piles on the perks—salon, fitness center, butlers, cinema, playroom and, get this, fur storage. “It’s the first true full-service building here that could stand alone,” says sales and marketing director Dora Puig. 70 Fisher Island Drive; palazzodelsol.com
Adrienne Bosh had such a grand time at her 29th birthday bash in Paris that the Miami Heat wife decided to devote Sparkle and Shine Darling, her new Parisian-inspired store and event venue, to the art of the soirée. “We had a girlie terrace tea party with an impeccable view of the Eiffel Tower,” says Bosh. Find gifts for le bébé or hostesses (Damselfly soy candles, Twinings’ Miss Etoile tea pots) and sip a glass of champagne with a pastry (macarons, fruit tarts) in the glittery gold-and-pink setting. “When I buy for the store, I shop for my girlfriends and want my customers to do the same for theirs.” 1665 Alton Road; sparkleandshinedarling.com
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(COMING SOON)
MIAMI From Beaux to Baz Miami Beach or the mainland? You choose when checking into winter’s hottest new hotels
THE BEE’S KEYS
Need a break after Basel? Take a road trip to Islamorada, in the Upper Florida Keys STAY
Amara Cay Resort ditches the Keys’ twee, Tommy Bahama décor for the organic trend (indoor vegetation, pale wood slats, basket chairs). Tip: It doesn’t get any better than Cedar Key clams swimming in tagliatelle vongole at the resort’s Oltremare Ristorante.
amaracayresort.com
NAUTILUS
Late Miami architect Morris Lapidus’ spirit lives on through the makeover of his midcentury-modern Nautilus, a Sixty hotel. The 250-room property preserves his “more is more” approach, which culminates in the lobby’s sunken bar with a staircase to nowhere—a definite selfie magnet. “Many of Lapidus’ projects were simultaneously flamboyant and playful,” says Sixty partner Jason Pomeranc, who oversaw the project. “Creating an aesthetic touching on different periods will hopefully give the hotel an individual style.” 1825 Collins Avenue; sixtyhotels.com LANGFORD HOTEL
Housed in a former Beaux-Arts bank, the Langford Hotel is a sure sign of downtown’s transformation. “The lobby’s crown molding, elevator doors and mail chute were restored by hand,” says
general manager Oscar Suarez. But you don’t have to check in to one of the 126 rooms to savor dishes and drinks by the team behind Pubbelly. PB Station circles the globe with parrillada for meat lovers, pickled Florida shrimp on house-made crackers and brisket with Swiss-chard pappardelle. 121 SE First Street; langfordhotelmiami.com FAENA HOTEL MIAMI BEACH
Be a drama queen at Faena Hotel Miami Beach, which features Art Deco–style interiors by Hollywood couple Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin. The pair modeled the cabaret after an opera house, and most of the 169 rooms and suites feature balconies for channeling your inner Evita. Juan Gatti, an Argentine artist, painted the lobby’s murals. Developer Alan Faena’s Argentine heritage further shows at Tierra Santa Spa and at Los Fuegos, by acclaimed chef Francis Mallmann. 3201 Collins Avenue; faena.com
shopmissmonroe.com EAT
Key West–based Bad Boy Burrito’s second location serves Mexican food with Floridian flair. Pair fish tacos drizzled in pineapple habanero sauce with an Arnold Palmer of hibiscus iced tea and limeade. badboyburrito.com Organic market and juice bar Urbn Grdn whips up concoctions like the kale-filled Katy Pear and Mello Yello, a pineapple, banana and chia seed smoothie. urbngrdn.org
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SHOP
Two Islamorada natives opened Village Square at the Trading Post, a retail and dining compound with a charming tropical garden. They transformed one of their childhood homes on the secluded property into the uCúmbe lifestyle store. Pick up Turkish towels for the beach and avocado-scented soaps. The oasis also hosts classes, from painting to yoga, and organizes SUP and eco tours. villagesquareislamorada.com In an annex of the same house, another Keys native operates resortwear boutique Miss Monroe (named for the county, not the actress). Find hand-dyed caftans with neon beads and tassels by Miami’s own Skemo and Oka-B’s recycled gold-rubber sandals made in Georgia. A necklace of gold seed beads and sea green chrysoprase is from the owner’s Coco Monroe jewelry line.
Sciame HOMES EXCEPTIONAL DESIGN. SUPERIOR QUALITY. INSTANT GRATIFICATION. Building museums requires a precise construction process. Sciame Homes translates this rigorous approach to the residential and custom home arena, ensuring a flawless synchronization of on-time and on-budget project completion. Whether a custom home designed by your architect or our full-service design team, Sciame Homes promises to deliver an extraordinary place to call home.
Palm Beach, FL . 179 Bradley Place . 561-318-5048
www.sciamehomes.com
New York, NY . 14 Wall Street . 212-232-2200
The Cipriani Landmark Collection
110 East 42nd Street New York, NY
25 Broadway, New York, NY
Celebrate Style 55 Wall Street New York, NY
www.cipriani.com
@cipriani
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NEW YORK
→ Furrier Pologeorgis, which has designed chic furs since 1960 for clients and fashion houses like Michael Kors and Zac Posen, has launched an e-commerce website. pologeorgis.com
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
SOLUTION ORIENTED
La Solution 10 De Chanel, $80
Chanel and Dr. Amy Wechsler make an unstoppable team Chanel has tapped into a new beauty category, sensitive skin, with the launch of its La Solution 10 De Chanel cream, created in collaboration with
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From top: The Perfection Serum, $700; the Maison spa in Midtown Manhattan.
Swiss skin-care mecca L.Raphael caters to elite clients at its Geneva headquarters and treats A-list actresses at its Grand Hyatt Hotel Martinez spa in Cannes. Now, the pioneering brand has a new home: the 5,000-square-foot Maison skin clinic in Midtown Manhattan, with sweeping Central Park views. Known for a multidimensional approach to beauty, L.Raphael uses proprietary anti-aging technologies in treatments such as its latest, the Diamond Oxy-Lift facial, which improves texture and tone and minimizes the appearance of blemishes. Founder Ronit Raphael explains the brand’s philosophy: “Our products have been developed to work in synergy with our treatments to optimize their effects. I do not believe only in products or only in treatments—it is all about the combination.”
4 West 58th Street; l-raphael.com
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johnhardy.com Gold and diamond bracelet, $29,000; gold and diamond bracelet with clasp, $19,500, at Saks Fith Avenue, 212-753-4000
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A Major Maison
In honor of its 40th anniversary, jewelry brand John Hardy is launching a fourpiece capsule collection, including gold and silver bracelets made in its signature Balinese hand-woven chain method. “The time-honored technique of chain weaving is a symbol of community and human bond—an essential expression of John Hardy’s founding and dedication to artisan handcrafted jewelry,” says CEO Robert Hanson. The brand’s presence in Bali dates back to 1975, when John Hardy, a Canadian designer, visited the island and discovered a rich tradition of artistry. He then established a workshop and studio in the town of Ubud, which serves as the company’s atelier to this day.
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consulting dermatologist Dr. Amy Wechsler over the course of four years. The fragrance-free, super-light concentrate is targeted at customers with finicky skin, like Wechsler herself, who understands the needs and concerns of those with similar imbalances. “People who have sensitive skin, like I do, are scared to try new things,” she says. However, with just 10 ingredients, the aptly named cream is aimed to be approachable and familiar. “We wanted the fewest ingredients possible,” the Upper East Side dermatologist explains. The core of the skin cream is a rare white tea—the Silver Needle tea—that helps soothe irritation. Wechsler credits Chanel’s patience and its use of controlled studies for the brand’s success in the skin-care market. “Because Chanel is a privately owned company, there’s no external pressure to rush products,” she says. As for whether we can expect more products for sensitive-skin types, Dr. Wechsler adds, “People are definitely asking for a cleanser, and a fragrance-free sunscreen. I think there are so many ways to go.” chanel.com
METAL OF HONOR
NEW YORK Timing is Everything
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Pro Diver watches, $199
Watch brand Invicta is making a big East Coast push with the opening of its Times Square space. In addition to carrying the full range of Invicta watches, the store will showcase sporty selections from its TechnoMarine brand and more formal timepieces from its Swiss label, S. Coifman—just two of 25 diverse collections on hand. Also on display will be new collectible designs from the Pro Diver line that feature the NYC skyline on the dial. “Invicta was founded on the principle of delivering great watches at modest sums with exceptional quality standards,” says Invicta Stores CEO Mauricio Krantzberg. With a modern gray color palette accented by the brand’s signature yellow hue, the new outpost will feature stainless-steel finishes and a massive LED screen display. As with all the brand’s stores, the Times Square location will offer complimentary watch sizing and band adjustments, a knowledgeable concierge repair service, exclusive events and giveaways and personalized shopping appointments for individuals and groups. It’s about time! 1535 Broadway; invictastores.com
MISAHARA LANDS AT THE PLAZA
New York–based jeweler Misahara has opened a store in The Shops at the Plaza Hotel. In addition to the pieces it’s already known for, the brand will be offering its 18-karat gold Unity line and expanded Petal collection, including cuffs and lariats made with aventurines, tourmalines, carnelians and jade—all blended with white diamonds and colored sapphires. “Misahara knows how to take traditional forms and mix in modern-day edges,” says founder Lepa Galeb-Roskopp. The designer, who grew up in a traditional Balkan household, didn’t find her calling right away; it took years for her to follow her passion for jewelry making. “For me, it’s about telling a story,” she adds. “It’s not about following trends.” 1 West 58th Street; misahara.com
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From left: gold cuff with pink diamonds, $42,450; gold ring with rose quartz and pink sapphires, $14,500; gold ring with rubies, $14,250
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TRI-STATE
→ Hudson is getting a boost from Brooklyn with the opening of the stylish Rivertown Lodge —the owners of Vinegar Hill House and the designers behind the Wythe Hotel add cool points. rivertownlodge.com
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Though they’re based in the Women’s sunglasses, $500 small town of New Canaan, Connecticut, Craig Bassam and Scott Fellows are no strangers to the fashion capitals of Manhattan, Paris and Milan. Having been instrumental in the reinvention of European mega-brands like Ferragamo and Bally—Bassam is an architect and designer, Fellows a creative director and branding expert—it was a natural next step for the duo to expand their furniture and design company, BassamFellows, into readyto-wear. “Some people are surprised, given that most fashion companies are trying their hand at furniture, that we’re just doing it the other way around,” says Fellows. “A lot of our designs stem from things we want in our own lives but couldn’t find anywhere,” says Bassam, who’s inspired by early modernism. “I think the BassamFellows customer is one who believes that things that last are the only ones worth acquiring.” bassamfellows.com
Mercury Rising
Men’s leather boots, $850
Makeup, skin-care and spa destination Bluemercury is rapidly expanding its presence in the Tri-State area this winter. Aside from new NYC outposts, the retailer has set up shop in Sea Girt, New Jersey, and Bronxville, New York. Each location offers the emporium’s 90-plus brand roster, including Oribe, Laura Mercier and Nars. “We’ve become a one-stop, beauty haven— the place where you can pop in, say hello and pick up your favorite cleanser or mascara,” says CEO and co-founder Marla Malcolm Beck. bluemercury.com
Estate Sale
Greystone on Hudson, a private 100-acre enclave of mansions just miles from Manhattan,
has finally opened its gates. The site is situated along one of Westchester County’s most historic corridors, nestled between Lyndhurst Castle and the Old Croton Aqueduct Park, and the homes within its renovated castles are designed for families looking to escape the confines of city apartments. Among the luxe amenities accessible to all residents, there’s an indoor sports complex, a wine cellar and a screening room, as well as a 24-hour doorman and concierge and scenic views of Pocantico Hills and the Hudson River. “The clientele that is coming to look at Greystone on Hudson includes titans of business, celebrities, athletes and Wall Street bankers,” says Andy Todd, the president of the Greystone Mansion Group. “Being only minutes from the best country clubs, private schools and private airports is really resonating with them.” Prices start at $5 million. 612 South Broadway, Tarrytown; greystone-on-hudson.com
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TABLE WEAR
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ORANGE COUNTY
→ The succinctly titled Gratitude, a new outpost of the in-demand, 100 percent plant-based dining destination Café Gratitude, puts down roots in Newport Beach this fall. cafegratitude.com
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Beach Babes
For Mikoh’s new Aloha collection, O.C.-based swimwear designers and sister duo Oleema and Kalani Miller wanted to give a big island hello to the itsy-bitsy bikinis of the beloved but bygone era of 1970s Hawaii. With their retro hues and floral prints, macramé detailing and barely-there bottoms, the surf-centric sisters’ designs evoke “a radical time in the history of surf that epitomized this aloha spirit,” says Oleema. And they’re ideally suited for the Millers’ contemporary clientele: “This collection speaks to the diversity of our customer,” says Kalani, “one who is strong, confident and set.” mikoh.com Belize bikini top, $112; Bondi bikini bottom, $90
THE SUITE-EST THING
Don’t be shy about requesting a view of the Pacific at the Montage Laguna Beach: Every room there features spectacular oceanfront scenery, with the newly renovated Sunset, Aliso and Catalina suites providing the ultimate in beachside luxury. “They’re stunning,” says managing director Rick Riess. “The
Skin in the Game
To give the new Kiehl’s shop in Cerritos its own unique “skin,” the beauty brand tasked Mexican street muralist Saner to adorn the exterior with a one-of-a-kind artwork. “Los Cerritos Center gave us the opportunity to paint the entire facade of our store within their mall,” says Kiehl’s president Chris Salgardo. “So we asked Saner to use our heritage as an inspiration, and he created this piece inspired by our values and history, and our focus on using the finest natural ingredients.” 239 Los
Cerritos Center, Cerritos
Daily Reviving Concentrate, $46, kiehls.com
Catalina offers a balcony that spans the entire length of the suite, and floor-toceiling glass doors that boast gorgeous views from every corner.” 30801 South Coast Highway, Laguna Beach; montagehotels.com
A 4TH TO BE RECKONED WITH
The vision driving Downtown Santa Ana’s new 4th Street Market—a collection of 15 restaurant concepts, 10 incubator kitchens and a demonstration kitchen from up-and-coming food artisans—was “to create a culinary hub that could attract people from all walks of life,” says the property’s owner, Ryan Chase. A key to elevating the market far beyond the traditional food court was ensuring the proper blend of adventurous food purveyors, most of whom have strong ties to the region. “Curating the ‘right’ tenants is everything—at the end of the day we are only as good as our food,” Chase says. “I tried to find a mix of vendors that were each doing something different, changing things up and passionate about what they do.” 201 East 4th Street, Santa Ana; 4thstreetmarket.com
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ÊFOR MORE ON ORANGE COUNTY, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES
PALM BEACH
→ Palm Beach resident Jennifer Ash Rudick takes readers on an insider’s tour of 20 local homes—including those of Beth Rudin DeWoody and Leonard Lauder—in her new tome, Palm Beach Chic (The Vendome Press).
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
HOME SWEET HOME
A Stay at The Brazilian Court
—ALEJANDRA OTT
ÊFOR MORE ON PALM BEACH, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES
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A CUT ABOVE
After 20 years at Bergdorf Goodman, stylist John Barrett has opened a Palm Beach outpost of his eponymous salon. Architect Daniel Romualdez envisioned the space, which sits between Tiffany and Chanel, to feel lavish while remaining warm and welcoming. “This was an opportunity for me to create a beauty destination where clients could have an experience beyond anything that existed in town,” says Barrett. His new salon features a tranquil outdoor garden courtyard, styling and color stations and nail areas for signature treatments like the Tom Ford Neroli Portofino Pedicure. Barrett, who tends to the tresses of Hillary Clinton, has also partnered with local skin-care authority Tammy Fender to offer her signature treatments on-site. 400 Hibiscus Avenue; johnbarrett.com
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The elegance of The Brazilian Court lies in its intimate setting; the storied hotel is a leafy secluded villa rather than a massive beachside resort. The Colonial-style property boasts a verdant outdoor space with lush private courtyards and a pool that complements the rich mahogany of the hotel’s interiors. Its boutique aesthetic, cozy guest rooms and beautifully manicured exteriors make the destination a crowd favorite as it prepares to celebrate 90 years. “When you restore the splendor of a historic landmark, you have to take special care to do it the right way,” says owner and managing partner Bobby Schlesinger. “We have delivered a world-class resort in the very heart of Palm Beach that perfectly blends architectural significance with unbridled luxury.” A series of buildings house the 80 rooms and suites, as well as the award-winning Café Boulud restaurant. “We are also in the process of making a major investment in refreshing the restaurant space, including the lobby, bar and ballrooms,” says Schlesinger. 301 Australian Avenue; thebraziliancourt.com
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The plush retreat in the heart of Palm Beach celebrates its 90th anniversary
With deep roots in New York City, noted construction firm Sciame (which has overseen projects at Columbia University, the Guggenheim Museum and the New York Public Library for 40 years) recently launched Sciame Homes in Palm Beach as a builder for turnkey and custom properties. Taking care of all aspects of the construction process, including the management of landscape and outdoor design, Sciame Homes has set out to introduce an innovative approach to living spaces, giving each bedroom its own private terrace with pool or garden views. “What we have found is that while high-end residential builders here know how to deliver a quality project, they seem to struggle with budget, cost control and schedule,” says Andrew Sciame, the brand’s Palm Beach president. Homes are in the $5 to $6 million range, and so far 11 projects have been completed (including a five-bedroom British Colonial on Angler Avenue and a fourbedroom on Plantation Road on the North End). Between the discerning clientele and the town’s strict building regulations, managing and overseeing each operation is a highly sophisticated process. Adds Sciame: “Translating our rigorous commercial construction approach to the residential arena ensures a flawless synchronization of on-time and on-budget project completion.” sciamehomes.com
SAN FRANCISCO
→ City Arts & Lectures at the Nourse Theater is a great place to enjoy talks with renowned entertainers, writers, artists and politicians. This winter, Jonathan Franzen, Joyce Carol Oates and Gloria Steinem will take the stage. cityarts.net
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Feeding Frenzy Four Bay Area chefs give us something to relish
CRAFTSMAN AND WOLVES
Contemporary patisserie
Craftsman and Wolves has headed for the hills—Russian Hill that is—to open a second outpost. The shop offers a selection of breakfast pastries, cakes, breads and a can’t-bemissed passion-fruit curd. While the food is based on French techniques, the design comes from the Japanese concept of igai—a sudden sense of wonder and surprise. It fits perfectly. 1643 Pacific Avenue; craftsman-wolves.com
TRESTLE
Housed in a century-old building in Jackson Square, Trestle is the latest spot from newcomers Hi Neighbor. “We present an eclectic three-course menu with options that change daily,” says co-owner Ryan Cole. The 49-seat room, with exposed brick walls and high ceilings, is surprisingly airy for its size. “We hope guests are excited by the experience of a proper meal in a warm yet modern space.” 531 Jackson Street; trestlesf.com
SOUS BEURRE KITCHEN Sous Beurre translates to
mean “under butter,” but this eatery is easily the cream of the crop. Once a pop-up experiment, the restaurant has opened in more upscale digs in the Mission, where, chef-owner Michael Mauschbaugh boasts, “the atmosphere is refined but comfortable.” The same could be said of the food, which includes a sous vide rabbit saddle, truffle-stuffed guinea fowl and moules a la crème. “French cuisine and technique are at our roots,” Mauschbaugh explains, “and are our driving force.” And, with an allinclusive price model—i.e. no
tipping—what you see is what you pay. “This is a transparent and ethical approach to menu pricing,” says Mauschbaugh, “and shows the true cost of doing business as a full-service, fine-dining restaurant.” 2704 24th Street; sousbeurrrekitchen.com LAZY BEAR
For David Barzelay and his team, communal dining is the cornerstone of the Lazy Bear experience. “We want to bring guests together in a way that allows them to discuss the food they’re having,” Barzelay says. The tasting menu at his restaurant consists of 12 to 18 courses, including snacks and treats, and is constantly changing. Reservations are only available via pre-paid tickets, released monthly through the restaurant’s website. “It’s our version of a modern American dinner party,” says Barzelay. 3416 19th Street; lazybearsf.com
EASTERN PROMISES
The Asian Art Museum’s new exhibition “Looking East: How Japan Inspired Monet, Van Gogh and Other Western Artists” chronicles the course of Western art following the end of Japan’s self-imposed cultural isolation. “Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh, Mary Cassatt—not names you typically see on our gallery walls,” says Jay Xu, the museum’s director. “But they, and other Western artists, will be welcomed.” Through February 7. 200 Larkin Street; asianart.org
ÊFOR MORE ON SAN FRANCISCO, VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES
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Clockwise from left: Lazy Bear’s Desert Wine cocktail (fino sherry, blanc vermouth, sotol, cucumber syrup, acid and salt, garnished with mouse melons); the dining room at Trestle; the pastry case at Craftsman and Wolves; boudin blanc at Sous Beurre.
WASHINGTON, D.C.
→ 2016 is the year of the museum! The National Gallery of Art turns 75, the National Air and Space Museum turns 40, and the Smithsonian Folklife Festival reaches the half-century mark.
CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
THE RENOVATION OF YOUR DREAMS
From left: A detail shot of Tara Donovan’s Untitled (2014); Hannah Elless in Bright Star.
Time to Shine
Avenue NW; americanart.si.edu
What’s in a name? Plenty if you’re talking about Bright Star, a new musical from Steve Martin and Edie Brickell that’s premiering at the Kennedy Center. Directed by Tony Award winner Walter Bobbie, the show tells a story of love and redemption, set in the 1920s and ’40s American south. “It’s one of the most appealing new scores I’ve heard in years. It’s infused with great depth and a sense of classic Americana,” says Bright Star producer Joey Parnes. “From beginning to end, it takes the audience on a wholly fulfilling emotional journey.” Bright Star will run at the Eisenhower Theater from December 2 through January 10, before making its way to Broadway in the spring.
2700 F Street NW; kennedy-center.org
CONVERSATION STARTER
Chef Michael Schlow has D.C. tongues wagging thanks to his newest restaurant, The Riggsby. Located at the Carlyle Hotel in Dupont Circle, the American boîte features appetizers, entrées and retro-inspired bar snacks like jalapeño tater tots. Schlow explains, “We wanted to create the type of place with a low-key vibe and really well-executed food.” The Riggsby parallels Schlow’s first local restaurant, Tico, where the menu is inspired by the chef’s travels through Spain, Mexico and South America. “It’s meant to be very comfortable,” he says, “a place you could have great conversation.” 1731 New Hampshire Avenue NW; theriggsby.com ÊFOR MORE ON WASHINGTON, D.C., VISIT DUJOUR.COM/CITIES
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The Renwick Gallery will reopen its doors on November 13 following its first overhaul in nearly 45 years. Situated across the street from the White House, the gallery often dubbed “the American Louvre” will debut “Wonder,” an exhibition featuring works from nine contemporary artists, including Maya Lin and Tara Donovan. “The reopening after two years of comprehensive renovation is a grand occasion to recall this landmark building’s noble history and future promise,” says the institution’s Elizabeth Broun. The new interior design includes higher ceilings, LED lighting and a wireless control system for digital artwork. “Today, we embark on a new chapter of the gallery’s illustrious life as a champion of art in the nation’s capital,” Broun adds, “and a welcoming site of discovery for all.” 1661 Pennsylvania
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DONOVAN: © TARA DONOVAN, COURTESY PACE GALLERY, PHOTO BY KERRY RYAN McFATE; BRIGHT STAR: JOAN MARCUS; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY
This September, the Four Seasons will debut a $13 million two-part renovation in pursuit of providing guests with their best sleep yet. Located in historic Georgetown, the five-star hotel is newly equipped with redesigned rooms and suites dedicated to a contemporary layout with plush comfort. “Guests who visit our hotel come for a number of reasons, but what remains constant is an absolute necessity for peaceful sleep,” says general manager David Bernand. “From our spine-aligning body cushions to our selection of customized in-room amenities, these details will redefine our rooms and suites to craft an unparalleled level of luxury.” 2800 Pennsylvania Avenue NW; fourseasons.com
PARTIES CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
Philip Stein’s Miguel Martinez, Melanie Jreige and Matthew Turetsky Police Commissioner Ray Kelly, Just Drew’s Andrew Warren, Reya Benitez and Gaïa Matisse Star attorney Stephen Zack
Georgina Bloomberg, Rosenhaus power agent Michael Katz and Jason Katz
Gilt Groupe’s Kevin Ryan, Lindsay Hubbard and Cristina Gibson
Jason Derulo
Fontainebleau’s Philip Goldfarb and Komodo’s David Grutman
Swire Hotel’s Clare Laverty, Isabelle McTwigan, Melissa Katz and Jamie Mark of In House Ideas David Efron, attorney Katherine Fernandez Rundle and Alonzo Mourning
Christine Wong, Caitlin McDonough and Daily Mail’s Jon Steinberg
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Miami Heat’s Amar’e Stoudemire, Mayor Philip Levine, Chris Bosh
Actor Bob Balaban
Charlie and Jagger Walk Marcy and Michael Warren
FYI Brand’s Tammy Brook, Amaris Jones, Eduardo Marturet, Alexis Stoudemire and Athina K de Marturet
John ‘Jellybean’ Benitez, and Elan Nehleber
Seminole Hard Rock’s Larry Mullin, Andrew Sasson and Eddie Lampert Actress Gabrielle Anwar, The Forge’s Shareef Malnik, Amar’e Stoudemire and coach Erik Spoelstra
David and Sybil Yurman and Fern Mallis
Caitlin McDonough, Miles Watkins, Karen Watkins and Rebecca Tafuri of Team Dior
Top Off the Rosé
Turn Up the Heat
Derulo does DuJour
Gaïa Matisse and Reya Benitez WHAT: End of summer soiree celebrating Just Drew & Ray Kelly’s book launch WHERE: Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton
WHAT: Welcoming the newest player of
WHAT: Concert and cocktails to celebrate his DuJour cover WHERE: Avenue Nightclub in NYC PRESENTED BY: Invitca, Dom Pérignon, Elite Daily and InList
WHO: Greg and Ray Kelly, Andrew Warren,
WHO: Amar’e Stoudemire
the Miami Heat WHERE: Shareef Malnik’s The Forge Restaurant in Miami Beach PRESENTED BY: Philip Stein, InList and Invicta
WHO: Jason Derulo
GETTY IMAGES AND SHAWN MICHAEL LOWE
Rosanna Scotto and Veronica Kelly
Adam Taetle and Rocco Basile
President of IMPULSE! International Rob Berman and Lionel Richie
DuJour’s Nicole Vecchiarelli, Danielle Deleasa and Kevin Jonas
DuJour’s Leslie Farrand and Katie Couric
Paul Gerben and Jon Singer
Prada’s Matteo Sessa Vitali and Maserati’s Andrea Soriani
Elizabeth Weprin, owner and CEO of TOWN Residential, Andrew Heiberger and Haley Lankau
Ken Sunshine, and Matthew Hiltzik
Catherine Caudill and Elan Nehleber
Dylan’s Candy Bar’s Dylan Lauren
Richard Johnson and Fran Drescher
Mona Sharaf and My.Suit’s James Hancock
GETTY IMAGES AND SHAWN MICHAEL LOWE
Caroline Berthet and Red Light Management’s Bruce Eskowitz
Jeremy Jauncey, Josh “The Fat Jew” Ostrovsky and Faraday Future’s Richard Kim
Dom Pérignon’s Trent Fraser and Lionel Richie
Hello, It’s Lionel WHO: Lionel Richie
Ahead of the Swing WHO: Josh “The Fat Jew” Ostrovsky,
WHAT: Party and dinner to celebrate the launch of Richie’s
Katie Couric and Faraday Future
home-and-flatware collection WHERE: PHD Terrace at the Dream Hotel Midtown NYC PRESENTED BY: IMPULSE! International and Dom Pérignon
WHAT: A soiree in honor of DuJour’s inaugural
single-themed issue, Gamechangers WHERE: Friars Club in NYC
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CEO of Sotheby’s Tad Smith, Friars Club’s Michael Gyure and Giuseppe Tarillo
Jim Kerwin and CAA’s Christian Carino
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Lisa Parigi, Anne Burrell and Lionel Richie
BINN AROUND TOWN CITIES→ ASPEN CHICAGO DALLAS/FORT WORTH HOUSTON LAS VEGAS LOS ANGELES MIAMI NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO WASHINGTON, D.C.
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FROM DUJOUR SOIREES TO FASHION SHOWS, OUR CEO IS ON THE SCENE— WITH HIS TRUSTY BLACKBERRY PRIV
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1. Stephen Baldwin, Jason Binn, The Ash Center’s Dr. Richard Ash 2. Chairman and Founder at Gilt Groupe Kevin Ryan, music honcho Clive Davis and Benny Shabtai 3. Global Citizen Group’s Mark Mahoney, Kelly Curtis, mogul Izvor Zivkovic, CEO of Absolut Elyx Jonas Tåhlin, Jason Binn, designer Louise Goldin at the Absolut Elyx House 4. Jeweler Martin Katz, Jason Binn and Lotte NY Palace’s John Tolbert 5. Park Hyatt’s Ernie Arias 6. Gilt Groupe’s Kathy Leo 7. Philip Stein’s Ruthie Mink 8. Tiffany & Co.’s Melissa Pordy 9. Jason Binn and VP of Moët & Chandon Thomas Bouleuc 10. Daily Mail’s Jon Steinberg, Gilt Groupe’s COO & CFO Tom Sansone 11. Hermès’ Peter Malachi and Bob Chavez with Jason Binn 12. LVMH’s Gena Smith with Isaia’s James Shay 13. Wempe’s Rudy Albers
ANIMAL HOUSE
Global vacation destinations that connect you with local wildlife 15
BROUGHT TO YOU BY
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ELEPHANT NATURE PARK
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This rescue and rehabilitation center in Northern Thailand lets visitors get up close and personal with its gentle giants. elephantnaturepark.org
23 14. Hillary Clinton and Penny Binn 15. Paolo Zampolli 16. Warner Music Group’s Len Blavatnik 17. Hearst
Magazines Publishing Director Michael Clinton and President of Hearst Magazines David Carey 18. President and Chief Merchandising Officer of Neiman Marcus Group, Inc. Jim Gold, Theory owner Andrew Rosen and Pierre-Yves Roussel, Chairman & CEO of LVMH Fashion Group 19. Cipriani’s Ignazio Cipriani, Jason Binn and Maggio Cipriani 20. Marketing and Communications Manager at Zenith Emilie Neri, Adriana Martone and Marketing and Communications Manager at B&B Italia, Shari Ajayi 21. President of Bulgari Daniel Paltridge and Jason Binn 22. Star attorneys Stephen Zack and David Boies 23. Bianca Espada 24. Jason Binn and Elaine Wynn 24
ÊFOR MORE ON THE SCENE FOLLOW @JASONBINN
LONE PINE KOALA SANCTUARY
Tours allow guests hands-on experiences with the Australian sanctuary’s impossibly adorable inhabitants. koala.net
KRUGER NATIONAL PARK
Built in 1892 to protect South Africa’s local wildlife, this park houses 147 species of mammals alone. sanparks.org
Circles carry and express emotional energy. But there’s a tightness when it comes to the circles here. There’s no expansiveness to them. She is all intellect. Look at the angles in the letter n of creation. Angles represent the productive energy of anger. We use that energy to motor accomplishment. On an ongoing basis she favors that right margin; it’s the forward place to be, and she’s always going to be an early adopter of, say, new technology.
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Angles are very planted formations. Look at how she makes the t in creation. It’s grounded. She is set. She knows who she wants to be, and that’s how it goes.
Famous Last Words
She has so much paper— why does she have to render her name so tight, with such muscular tension? Why can’t she take up more space and be more comfortable? In the end, she lives on that continuum of freedom and constriction.
Zaha Hadid’s handwriting tells us what she’s not spelling out Written by Frances Dodds
Z
aha Hadid didn’t break architecture’s glass ceiling until she had built some of the world’s most impressive ceilings—and the jaw-dropping buildings beneath them. Hadid was the first woman to win the Pritzker Architecture Prize and the first to receive the Royal Institute of British Architects’ Gold Medal award, and recently she’s been honored for her achievements by De Beers’ Moments in Light campaign, which highlights the successes of powerful professional women. The Iraqi-born architect is inarguably in a class of her own, and she seems to be well aware of the fact. Asked whether there are any other women whom she considers influential in her own profession, she replies, “Not really.” Hadid has been hailed as a visionary of neo-futuristic architecture, and her works—including museums, bridges and sports stadiums featuring swooping, space-age facades of glass and steel—dot the globe. One might assume the brevity of the above handwriting sample is merely
evidence of the “continuous creation” her hectic schedule mandates, but graphologist Annette Poizner says there’s more to it than that. “Her personality is not particularly balanced.… Don’t expect her to be chatty,” Poizner says. “She prefers limited verbal expression so as to give all the time and space for visual expression. As a result, more is said by the spacing than by the words. She has turned this handwriting sample into a statement. The words form the shape of an arrow pointing right, which says, ‘I am forward-moving, in the direction of progress.’ ” While Hadid may be making great strides, she’s also faced criticism for the exorbitant costs and resources her projects demand. Still, she hasn’t made it this far by backing down. “It’s very difficult to do architecture, so you have to push your way through,” Hadid says. “People would never criticize a writer or a musician for refusing to compromise. With architecture…by protecting your idea you are also protecting the client’s interest. You don’t want to give them something watered-down.” ■
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