volume 06 Issue 04 SUMMER 2014
BD 3.5 Sr 35 DHS 35 KD 2.5 US$ 10
OFFICIAL FERRARI DEALER
EuroMotors
Ferrari provides Genuine Maintenance, a scheduled year four up to year twelve from date of purchase. For further information, please contact us.
810 Sh. Jaber Al Ahmed Al Subah Highway, Al Hamriya 611, Sitra, Kingdom of Bahrain Telephone: 750750 17 www.bahrain.ferraridealers.com All trademarks and copyrights are exclusively rights of Ferrari S.p.A.
OFFICIAL FERRARI DEALER - EUR O M O TO RS 810 Sh. Jaber Al Ahmed Al Subah Highway, Al Hamriya 611, Sitra,Kingdom of Bahrain Telephone: 750750 17
Ferrari provides Genuine Maintenance, a scheduled maintenance programme that will eduled maintenance programme that will accompany all on of extending the factory warranty from hase. For further information, please contact us. *Terms and conditions apply.
001-001 Ferrari.indd 1
09/06/2014 16:10
002-003 Al Zain Jewellers .indd 2
09/06/2014 16:12
Photography: Ali Al Riffai 002-003 Al Zain Jewellers .indd 3
09/06/2014 16:12
dps durra-final.pdf
1
5/22/14
9:54 AM
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
004-005 Cup Cakes .indd 4
09/06/2014 16:12
004-005 Cup Cakes .indd 5
09/06/2014 16:12
006
Contents Editorial Editor in Chief Khalid Ahmed Juman Features Editor Laura Templeton Art Art Director Geir C. Erdal Marketing and Sales Media Manager Hussain Al Zaimoor Production Production Support Thomas Kuttiyil
Volume 06 Issue 04 Summer 2014
IT support Digital Manager Hussain Al Anjawi Published by
008 First Impression Word from Durrah’s Editor-in-Chief
010 Pride of the Nation Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa swims for charity
016 Journey of a Miracle A look at leading Bahrain company Miracle Publishing
024 Opulent Aesthetics The Gaudium collection from jewellery designer Nuria Llamas
030 Generations of Jewellers A profile of Bahrain jewellers Al Zain
034 Time is Platinum
Breguet’s Classique Tourbillion 5377 now in platinum
036 Airstream of Elegance
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone ‘Como Edition’
038 Day to Remember Baume & Mercier’s graduation timepiece
040 Essence of a Jewel
Bulgari’s Opera Prima perfume is a step above the rest
044 Passionate Perfumery France’s Diptyque home and body fragrances
050 A Cultural Treasure Equine excellence at its finest
056 Entrenched in History
Burberry introduces their Heritage Trench Coat Collection
062 Defining Style
Interview with men’s accessories designer Robert Tateossian
066 Chic Couture Ready-to-wear collection from Céline
068 Painting from the Heart Interview with artist Erna Goudbeek
074 Glass Legacy World renowned glass sculptor Dale Chihuly
006-007. Contents Durrah 24.indd 6
080 Connecting Culture
PO Box 10013, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain T. +973 77022222 F. +973 77022221
Artist Hendrik Stroebel exhibits in Dubai
084 Hublot Loves Football Official sponsor of the 2014 FIFA World Cup
088 The Royal Porcelain volume 06 Issue 04 SUMMER 2014
Porcelain from the Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Berlin
BD 3.5 Sr 35 DHS 35 KD 2.5 US$ 10
094 Beauty Unfolding The history of the Spanish fan
098 Good Taste The new La Grande Épicerie opens in Paris
104 Ambience Amplified Inside the best new boutiques
114 Summer in Sampa Travel to Brazil’s São Paulo for this year’s World Cup
118 New Heights of Luxury The Residence on Etihad Airways
122 Sweet Escape
Cover Image The Sun glass sculpture by Dale Chihuly has been unveiled in Berkeley Square, London as the latest in a series of venues. The 14 foot glass installation is made of more than 1,300 handblown glass elements and weighs 4,230 lbs.
Escape summer at a luxury hotel
134 The Hideaways Club Membership of an exclusive new travel club
138 Spa Secrets A selection of the world’s best spas
146 Food for Thought Fine dining restaurants from around the world
158 Twist on Tradition
DURRAH is a quarterly premium lifestyle magazine published by Miracle Publishing. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. No part of this publication or any other part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publisher in writing. While every effort has been made towards factual correctness, the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors of omission or statements made within the publication. The publisher also rejects any claims arising from any action, which a company or individual may take upon the basis of content contained therein. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher.
Recipes from Chef Colin Clague of Qbara
166 Cutting-Edge Cars The world’s finest luxury automobiles
178 Must Haves The latest must have items and accessories
182 Islamic and Oriental Arms and Armour
ISSN 2210-1322
An in-depth look at book by Robert Hales
189 Final Pearl Les Voiles de Saint-Barth 2014
www.durrah.bh e.mail: info@durrah.bh T. +973 77022222
09/06/2014 16:22
034
010 016
024
040 050
122
104 074
166
068 094
006-007. Contents Durrah 24.indd 7
182
09/06/2014 16:23
008
Welcome
First Impression A word from the editor-in-chief
W
e are now already halfway through the year and it seems that so much has happened, with much more on the horizon. This Summer issue of Durrah is full to the brim of articles to keep you entertained as temperatures climb! Most notably we have an exclusive interview with Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa, who recently completed an epic 35 kilometre swim between the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Kingdom of Bahrain. Shaikh Khalid tells Durrah about his heroic journey, and his pride after finishing and being congratulated by his father, His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa. The challenge was pursued with the noble ambition of raising funds for cancer patients, and he has also succeeded in proving the standard of accomplishment that Bahrain is capable of. We congratulate Shaikh Khalid on this admirable achievement. As you may have noticed from our cover image this issue, we are honoured to be featuring an interview with renowned glass extraordinaire, Dale Chihuly. Dale has been in the glass blowing business for over fifty
000-000. First Impression.indd 8
years and is recognised worldwide as a true statement artist. His colourful and exuberant pieces are instantly recognisable, and we know you will enjoy reading about his work and passion. As is expected during the hot summer months, travel has been a big focus for Durrah this season. We take a look at the exclusive Hideaways Club, for those global travellers wishing to invest in property abroad in a smart new way. Discovering Etihad’s luxurious new onboard suite known as ‘The Residence’, you can be guaranteed you’ll be travelling to your next destination in style! As for our travel location this month, where better than the venue for the opening ceremony of the FIFA World Cup 2014? São Paulo in Brazil proves itself to be much more than a destination for football lovers however, with a dynamic cultural scene, thriving business centre and over 12,000 restaurants covering every cuisine. Other highlights to look forward to include the breathtakingly lifelike oil paintings by artist Erna Goudbeek, the stunning Gaudium jewellery collection
from Spanish designer Nuria Llamas, equine beauty captured to perfection in book ‘Arabian Horses’ by Judith E. Forbis, plus so much more. Within this issue you will find nothing less than the very best of handpicked luxury from around the world, whether it be places, things or people that shine the brightest. There is a lot to indulge in this summer, so savour and enjoy the richness of offerings within these pages!
Khalid Ahmed Juman Editor in Chief
09/06/2014 16:23
009-009 Burberry.indd 9
09/06/2014 16:24
10
Up Close and Personal
010-015 Up close and Personal - Sh. Khalid.indd 10
09/06/2014 16:26
Pride of the Nation
Demonstrating bravery, heroism and endurance, His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa has completed the epic task of swimming 42 kilometres nonstop between the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Kingdom of Bahrain. His Highness was greeted and congratulated upon arrival by his father His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa after finishing the challenge, which was pursued all in the name of charity. In honour of his achievement, His Highness Shaikh Khalid was recognised in the Pride of the Nation event held at the Bahrain National Monument in Sakhir, and spoke exclusively with Durrah about his journey.
S
trengthening the presence of Bahrain on the world map and proving what its citizens are capable of; His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa has received much well earned praise after he swam for 42 kilometres nonstop to raise funds for cancer patients. His Highness Shaikh Khalid, Bahrain’s deputy chairman of the Supreme Council for Youth and Sport (SCYS) and chairman of Bahrain Athletic Association crossed the 42 kilometre stretch of water on March 14, between Sunset Resort in Saudi Arabia and the Sofitel Resort in Zallaq in the south of Bahrain. The efforts of the “Khalid bin Hamad Swimming Challenge” were undertaken with the ambition of raising funds for assisting cancer patients, and were held under the patronage of SCYS chairman and Bahrain Olympic Committee president His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa. Seventy participants from around the world from countries including Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, Spain, the US, Slovenia, New Zealand and
010-015 Up close and Personal - Sh. Khalid.indd 11
Australia, also took part in the unprecedented initiative. Despite bad weather, His Highness Shaikh Khalid, who started the challenge at 5:00 am pursued the swim until the end, where he was greeted with the congratulations and support of many. His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa, who attended the final stages of the challenge, congratulated his son on the extraordinary exploit and praised his determination and willpower to rise to the challenge and swim for 42 kilometres. His Majesty said the achievement was an outstanding accomplishment for Bahrain and an inspiration for young Bahraini sportsmen and women. He added it was a reflection of the fraternal relations between Bahrain and Saudi Arabia, and that it served to build the bridges of friendship with athletic people throughout the world. His Highness Shaikh Khalid also received praise from Interior Minister Shaikh Rashid bin Abdulla Al Khalifa on his successful initiative, and His Royal
09/06/2014 16:26
12
Up Close and Personal
02
010-015 Up close and Personal - Sh. Khalid.indd 12
03
09/06/2014 16:26
01 His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa and His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa 02 His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa speaks at the Pride of the Nation event 03 The Pride of the Nation event at the Bahrain National Monument in Sakhir
The Bahrain Monument represents an international regional significance to celebrate and commemorate the vast outpouring of National support shown by citizens and organizations within the Kingdom of Bahrain.
Highness Prince Salman bin Hamad Al Khalifa, Crown Prince, Deputy Supreme Commander and First Deputy Prime Minister sent his congratulations. He hailed His Highness Shaikh Khalid’s keenness to use sport to achieve noble goals that benefit Bahraini society and enhance solidarity. His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa praised His Highness’ constant support for the youth and sport movement in the kingdom and commended His Highness for achieving a new world record by swimming 42km nonstop. During the closing ceremony His Highness Shaikh Nasser crowned His Highness Shaikh Khalid, in the presence of senior officials as well as honouring the 70 participants. The accomplishment was then formally recognised in a special presentation, ‘Pride of the Nation’, held at the Bahrain National Monument in Sakhir. The Bahrain Monument represents an international regional significance to celebrate and commemorate the vast outpouring of National support shown by citizens and organizations within the Kingdom of Bahrain. The overriding consideration that influenced the design of the Monument was the attempt to express the great achievements of the modern Kingdom of Bahrain in a physical form, corresponding to its regional and national importance to the Kingdom of Bahrain, and therefore was the perfect venue for the ceremony. His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa was joined by his family and guests at the Monument; which consists of a two storey circular Museum building around a central pond with a 65m high Sun Dial and an Amphitheatre. Several officials and leading sports figures have lauded the humanitarian initiative of His Highness Shaikh Khalid and praised in statements and cables of congratulations of his swimming venture, saying that it reflected a strong determination to confront challenges, to brave adverse weather elements and to swim long distances for the sake of a humanitarian cause. The challenge was also seen in Bahrain as “an opportunity that brought together swimmers from diverse backgrounds in a show of mutual tolerance and support and in a remarkable display of deep commitment to serving people in need.”
010-015 Up close and Personal - Sh. Khalid.indd 13
09/06/2014 16:26
14
Up Close and Personal
04
05
Interview with His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa When did you first realize your interest in sports? Since my childhood and school days I have been fond of sports, I used to attend various sporting events as I saw a lot of benefits to attending them.
What made you decide to embark on the long distance swimming events for charity? We believe in the importance of cooperation and communication between the various segments of society, especially those who need help and support. It is a noble cause that we seek to implement, as every individual in the Kingdom makes up the social fabric of Bahrain; also the proceeds of such events contribute towards supporting charity projects. We have had this idea for a long time which was to achieve a new milestone in the challenge of swimming long distances, such as swimming from Saudi Arabia to Bahrain nonstop. So we examined this idea, which turned into a vision and then to a reality. We desired to contest the challenge that Bahraini citizens are capable of performing such challenges and can accomplish various achievements and compete with others countries of the world. This is a message that we wish to send out about our beloved Kingdom, and about the capabilities of our Youth and the capacities they possess.
What were the preparations for this swimming challenge? For every sporting event, we make the necessary preparations through exercises and drills in various indoor sports centers. For this challenge we needed about two years of preparation, which lasted long hours, and required strength, endurance, patience, and high levels of fitness.
010-015 Up close and Personal - Sh. Khalid.indd 14
What were the main difficulties faced by your Highness during this swimming challenge? We were faced with many difficulties during this challenge, especially when swimming in open seas. You do not know the extent of the risk that you may encounter, such as weather changes. In addition to the challenge of swimming the long distance of 31.5 kilometers between the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Kingdom of Bahrain, we experienced strong waves due to the position of the swimming course on a border area. We were also faced with some difficulties such as cold temperatures of the water, especially in the evening and low vision, strong currents, waves and strong winds. The distance was also increased from 31.5 kilometers to 42 kilometers due to bad weather, a change of course and a few stops to take breaks, but with the grace of God and with determination and patience, we surpassed these difficulties and were able to achieve this international feat.
Suppose that the volatility of the weather in Bahrain was stronger, would you postpone the swimming challenge for another day? Swimming in the sea requires certain conditions and a certain climate in order for the challenger to be able to swim comfortably. As for the issue of postponing the event, that is left up to professionals and arbitrators who have full knowledge about it. However this is what happened to me and it was my brother, His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa, who told me to postpone the swimming challenge, but I insisted on proceeding.
Were the competitors in the challenge only Bahraini swimmers?
We always involve Bahrainis to give them the chance to get the experience and prepare them to succeed in order to raise the name of our beloved Kingdom. We also involved experts and world champions to impart a sense of challenge, excitement and competition.
The swimming challenge lasted around 20 hours, how did you maintain the energy to continue? Thanks to the Grace of God, perseverance and determination, and also due to training and exercising well enough to have the required fitness. My training exercises were not limited to swimming only, but included training on how to relax the muscles. It was also with the help of my brother, His Highness Shaikh Nasser that I was able to continue my challenge for 20 hours.
What did it mean to you when His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa, stood by you during the first kilometer and during the end of your swimming course? His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa is my brother and my support and I have acquired a lot of abilities and experiences from His Highness. He has always supported me in all tournaments, competitions and challenges, and His Highness always joins me during training, launches, and also gives me advice and guidance from which I have benefited greatly. For this I would like to offer my sincere thanks and appreciation for his support and his backing as it means a lot to me.
What did it mean to you when His Majesty the King received you personally following your arrival from the swimming challenge? We consider this reception a medal of honour and pride for us, so it made me proud of all the efforts we
09/06/2014 16:26
04 Paying respect to His Highness at the celebratory event
have made for our Kingdom under the prosperous reign of His Majesty the King. Therefore, we offer our sincere gratitude, thanks and appreciation to His Majesty, for his feelings of parental concern and persistent follow ups during the entire span of the swimming challenge from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia to Bahrain. His Majesty’s reception at the finish line was a moment I will never forget, as it has had a far reaching impact on me and gave me a strong determination and high spirits; it made me forget every hardship and all the fatigue I felt during the challenge. I was highly honoured and proud to be received by His Majesty, as this success comes through the unlimited support and direct and continuous follow-up of His Majesty the King for our sporting endeavours, adding to the accomplishments that we have achieved.
05 Portrait of His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa 06 His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa congratulates his son 07 His Highness Shaikh Khalid bin Hamad Al Khalifa during the challenge
His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa is my brother and my support and I have acquired a lot of abilities and experiences from His Highness.
This swimming challenge has been titled ‘The Swimming Challenge for cancer patients’. What is the message you would like to deliver? We continue to work hard in every tournament, contest or challenge for all segments of society to benefit from the support they require. We must stand by them and support them to live their lives without difficulties. Everyone is aware of the dangers of cancer and its consequences and the necessity of supporting cancer patients, whether material or moral support – both of which are important to help them overcome this disease.
To whom would you like to dedicate this accomplishment? I would like to dedicate this accomplishment to my father His Majesty the King, my brother His Highness Shaikh Nasser bin Hamad Al Khalifa, the people of Bahrain and of the Arabian Gulf, my dear mother, and to all those who have supported me and shared in this accomplishment.
How did it feel to celebrate your achievements at the Pride of the Nation event? 06 07
As Bahraini youth, we felt proud having achieved such an athletic accomplishment that will be registered for the people of Bahrain, me being one of them. Therefore, I would like to offer my sincere thanks and appreciation to His Majesty the King, may God protect him for this national honour. I consider this appreciation by His Majesty a Medal of honour and a source of pride for us, it made us proud of the efforts we have made in the name of our beloved Kingdom under the prosperous reign of his Majesty the King. Again, I offer my most sincere gratitude and appreciation to His Majesty for the parental concern and persistent follow up during the entire course of my swimming challenge from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia all the way to Bahrain, and this success adds to the accomplishments and achievements we have made.
What is your next challenge? Our next challenge is to remove the difficulties faced by young people, as well as the creation of cultural, sports and training programs aimed at raising the level of competence in various vital areas in Bahrain.
010-015 Up close and Personal - Sh. Khalid.indd 15
09/06/2014 16:26
016
Special Feature
Journey of a Miracle
For the last two decades Miracle Publishing has been capturing the spirit of Bahrain, by creating some of the most beautiful and relevant books for the Bahraini and international market. Led by Managing Director Khalid Juman, each book is lovingly created to the highest possible design and production standards. Durrah reflects on the past twenty years, recalling some of the most prominent moments in the history of Miracle Publishing.
M
iracle Publishing has been actively involved in the production of high quality coffee table books since the mid 90s. Over the course of twenty years, the company has produced over seventy books on various topics relating to the Kingdom of Bahrain, ranging from architecture, art, banking, tourism, sports, poetry, education and wildlife. The publications from Miracle have received support and recognition from the Royal Family of Bahrain as well as both local and international praise. The style, content and quality of books produced by Miracle are what set the company apart from other publishing houses. While many publications today are produced with a short life span and quick turnover, the idea behind Miracle books was to create something that can be kept alive for a longer period of time, something that readers can truly cherish.
018
Special Feature
Miracle became a driving force in promoting the culture of Bahrain as the company went on to produce several popular titles over the years.
03
02
Managing Director Khalid Juman says he was inspired by his father when conceptualizing the idea behind Miracle. “I grew up amongst my father’s business Awal Printing Press, and from an early age developed a passion for books,” he says. “My father had a great love for books and would bring them home from his travels around the world during the 50s and 60s. We had a great collection of books in our library and they were the perfect way to gain insight into life in another country.” Taking this idea forward, Miracle printed their first publication 24 hours in the life of a Nation in 1995. Their entry into the world of publishing was extremely well received, and it became clear people were interested in treasuring the rich cultural heritage of Bahrain in a sustainable and high quality format. Khalid says he gained confidence in moving forward with the project after presenting 24 hours in the life of a Nation to the late Emir His Highness Isa bin Salman Al Khalifa and His Highness Prince Khalifa bin Salman Al Khalifa. “They offered wise words of encouragement to me upon seeing the book, and thanks to their support and recommendation twenty years later we have a lot to show for pursuing our business.” Miracle became a driving force in promoting the culture of Bahrain as the company went on to produce several popular titles over the years, exploring all aspects and areas of life in the
Kingdom. Each book project is conceptualized, designed and produced by a team of book-making professionals based in Bahrain, complimented by services of photography, calligraphy, translation, merchandising and retail sales. The books were then launched both locally and internationally, reaching a wide global audience. Along with the popular retail titles, Miracle creates books upon request for private clients and individuals, always maintaining and ensuring absolute excellence in quality. Printing and binding of the books is done by the best book producers in Bahrain, Hong Kong, Dubai and Italy. In celebration of the 20th anniversary Miracle formed the ‘M Collection’, a selection of eighteen publications, which are now available internationally in sixty leading libraries and Middle East research centres, including libraries of Universities of Harvard, Cambridge, UCLA, John Hopkins, Stanford, Princeton, Cornell, Oxford along with Library of Congress, Birmingham library and National Libraries of Russia, China, Japan, India, Australia, Canada, Egypt, Turkey, Ireland and Pakistan. Khalid says, “It is an incredible honour and achievement to have our books immortalized into these collections, and be recognized by such important libraries”. Notable among the Miracle›s long list of titles is 20/20, which is a visual documentation of the historic events which played out in Bahrain during
01 A collection of the best coffee table style books from one of the leading books publisher of the GCC, Miracle Publishing 02 Khalid Ahmed Juman, Founder and Board Member with the most recent coffee table book of Miracle Publishing, ‘Birds of Dilmun’, a documentation of the 330 species of birds which live or migrate through Bahrain 03 ‘Muharraq, Shaikh of Clubs’, a coffee table book with unique production quality, documents the 80 year history of one of the region’s oldest and most renowned clubs, the Muharraq Club
020
Special Feature
04
04 ‘20/20’, an unprecedented photographic documentation of the political unrest of Bahrain in 2011 05 HM King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa, King of Kingdom of Bahrain receives from Author Professor Brendan Kavanagh, Miracle Publishing’s latest book, the ‘Birds of Dilmun 06 Late Emir of Bahrain Sheikh Isa bin Salman Al Khalifa receiving the ‘Bahrain-24 hours in the life of a Nation’ book from Founder and Board Member, Khalid Ahmed Juman 07 HRH Prince Khalifa bin Salman Al Khalifa, Prime Minister receives the first book of Miracle Publishing in 1997, Bahrain 24hours in the life of a Nation 08 HH Shaikh Ali bin Khalifa Al Khalifa, Deputy Prime Minister with another recent book of Miracle Publishing, ‘Flying Feathers - A History of Aviation in Bahrain’
Along with the popular retail titles, Miracle creates books upon request for private clients and individuals, always maintaining and ensuring absolute excellence in quality.
the 2011 unrest. The images in this evocative photo essay illustrate in detail the heartache and anguish that the Kingdom of Bahrain underwent through this turbulent period. 20/20 was launched at the Frankfurt Bookfair in 2012 and received rave reviews for its impartial documentation and wealth of photographs from the best international sources. “It was important for us to document such a significant time in Bahrain’s history, when the peace and inclusiveness that symbolises the island was tested,” says Khalid. “Through capturing these moments we can always remember the journey many Bahrainis have taken, to where we stand today.” Paying attention to increasingly relevant and important environmental issues, Towards a Green Bahrain was written by fourteen experts in the field of environment control and was produced on 100% recycled paper and through sustainable binding techniques. The unique book attempted to understand and make sense of the long-term relationship between humans and the world with particular reference to the nation of Bahrain, and was extremely well received and commended after its launch at the Rio20 conference of the United Nations in Rio de Janeiro. More recent book launches include Birds of Dilmun, a comprehensive photographic document of the 330 species of birds that live or migrate through Bahrain, which Miracle was fortunate to launch to His Majesty
05
King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa at the opening of Mara’ee 2014. It was with great honour and pride that Miracle showcased the book to His Majesty, and to receive his support and enthusiasm for the company. Flying Feathers is another important title that tells the story of the history of aviation in Bahrain since the 1920s, from when the first sea plane landed in the Kingdom to the development of one of the fastest growing airports in the Middle East. This was presented with honour to Shaikh Ali bin Khalifa Al Khalifa, who expressed his admiration for the quality and content of the edition. Two Miracle publications Love, Life, Light of Bahrain (a three-book anthology) and Al Muharraq, have won the Creativity Awards in the United States in the book design category, which is a testament to the high standards of the publications. Today, the company only grows stronger with a number of future titles on the horizon. In a time when the digital world is stronger than ever, Miracle believes in the power of print and producing something technology cannot replace; books that can be held and treasured for generations to come. Khalid says, “We hope to continue to present Bahrain and the world with many more publications to come, recording the key moments in history and enlightening them on all this Kingdom has to offer.� www.miracle.com.bh
06
07
08
022
09
Special Feature
10
09 ‘Green Bahrain’ is a 100% recycled paper production and written by 14 renowned environmentalists 10 ‘Diwan Al Noor’ a collection of black and white photography by Princess Reem Al Faisal of Saudi Arabia 11 ‘Footprints in Time’ is a rich historical document of the Bahrain-India relationship from the early 1700s to the current day 12 ‘The Journey Begins’ is a photographic documentation of the first democratic elections in the Kingdom of Bahrain, a first in the region
11
12
13 ‘Love, Life, Light of Bahrain’ is a set of 3 books in a case which won the Creativity Awards in USA in the ‘book design’ category 14 ‘Love, Life, Light of Bahrain’ books include poetry by renowned poet Qassim Haddad and is considered one of the best books on Bahrain
13
14
In a time when the digital world is stronger than ever, Miracle believes in the power of print and producing something technology cannot replace; books that can be held and treasured for generations to come. 08
pa n e r a i . c o m
Mediterranean Sea. “Gamma� men in training. The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.
history a n d heroes. radiomir 1940 3 days (ref. 514) available in steel and red gold
PANERAI BOUTIQUE Manama - Moda Mall +973 1 743 1166 - panerai@asiajewellers.com
Bahrain Durrah 061249-Diver-SP-PAM514 300x280 En.indd 1 023-023 Asia Jewellers Adv.indd 23
26/05/14 17:53 09/06/2014 16:26
24
Jewellery
01
Opulent Aesthetics
02
01
The origin of the word ‘jewel’ comes from the Latin ‘Gaudium jocus’, which is where Spanish jewellery designer Nuria Llamas found the name for her latest bespoke collection. Handcrafted in Spain by a team of jewellery technicians, the Gaudium Collection consists of perfectly-finished pieces that seduce women around the world, as they accompany, embellish, define, perfect, and enhance the female personality.
024-028 Jewellery - nuriallamas.indd 24
09/06/2014 16:27
01 Mannerist style horse (15001800) set in 18kt yellow gold with amethysts, rubelite, cultivated pearl and natural snail shell. Comes with matching necklace also made of amethyst and different size Baroque pearls with choker position options 02 Red patent leather purse with a wild coral shaped Perspex base, 18kt yellow gold branch, red tourmaline and decorated with natural hazel Indian feathers 03 18kt yellow gold 16th century Asian ornamental style bird of paradise pin, on a voluminous crown of natural hazel Indian crow, pardo broom flower and saddle feathers in brown and black
D 03
024-028 Jewellery - nuriallamas.indd 25
esigning a jewel is an exciting creative process that takes on its full meaning when the piece comes to form part of the life history of the person who identifies with it,” said jewellery designer Nuria Llamas. Art and jewellery are things that have always been present in Nuria Llamas’ life. Her early passion for design stemmed from her extensive experience in the field through her family business: Manufacturas Cador, a European firm that has been at the forefront of jewellery manufacture and shaping since the 1950s. Today, her creative world – which has evolved with each collection – is much richer and more ambitious, combining 18 and 22 karat gold and precious and semi-precious stones with stunning materials that produce an original, luxurious effect in each piece. As the prelude to her unique piece number 3,000, the designer has launched Gaudium, a jewellery and accessory collection inspired by 15th, 16th and 17th century Spanish jewellery. The 36 one-of-a-kind pieces evoke the splendour of other-worldliness from a bygone period, infused with the discovery of new worlds, where the luxury of power was represented in jewellery though new stones and materials. Each design embraces the unearthing of opulent aesthetics from a unique perspective.
09/06/2014 16:28
26
Jewellery
The essence of the goldsmith tradition can be sensed in each and every one of her designs and the exclusiveness of luxury materialises in her jewels and accessories. Each innovative creation transmits her passion and regard for the world of luxury and refinement and the details that represent it. Llamas has described design as a world of emotions, and said she takes her inspiration from the female images as if it were a canvas awaiting creation. Jennifer Bauser, who has worked as Fashion & Style Editor for magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair, has said, “When I met Nuria Llamas over a decade ago, I knew that she was a safe bet for conveying the idea of a bold, self-confident, strong- willed woman. Her ever innovative, unique and trenchant jewels and accessories are the perfect complements for styles that, through their elegance, transform their wearers into breathtaking head turners. She looks, observes, interprets and creates from the perspective that every woman is a unique individual. And that is why her timeless, handcrafted designs are so different from conventional pieces and so similar to the women she uses for her inspiration, unique individuals.” More than 3,000 pieces produced to date endorse the professional track record of this designer, who is now carving a niche in the UAE. Aromas from the past,
04
024-028 Jewellery - nuriallamas.indd 26
refinement and awareness of present and future trends mean that the nuriallamas presence in the Arab countries will represent a joining of cultures, and generate awareness of the signature bespoke brand. As well as following her own creative proposals, the designer also works on a made-to-order basis, and is more than happy to personally work alongside clients in crafting the perfect bespoke piece. “If they wish to feel the luxury of the creative process in the first person, it gives me enormous pleasure for us to create hand-inhand,” Llamas said. Cartier and Carrera y Carrera, among other brands, have requested her collaboration both on account of her creative capacity as well as her added value in research, development and innovation. Each of the pieces from nuriallamas are numbered and authenticated and come with the original sketch of her design, adding to the exclusivity and guaranteeing the quality of the product. Attracted to luxury and forever striving towards it, the brand continues to produce unique pieces for those who are able to recognise and admire the essence of a forward-thinking signature jewellery brand such as nuriallamas.
04 Mannerist-style 18kt white gold pin with magnifying glass and grey pearls, with Perspex silhouette and small chain with onyx 05 Mannerist-style 18kt yellow gold pin with magnifying glass and grey pearls, with Perspex silhouette and small chain with onyx 06 Mini black patent leather purse with a wild coral shaped Perspex base decorated with an 18kt white gold branch and iolite. Handles are made from silk trim, pearl zipper pull and 18kt rhodium gold rings where silk soutache ribbons are affixed for shoulder bag position with pearl and black agate adornments
www.nuriallamas.com
05
06
09/06/2014 16:28
07 Mannerist style 18kt red gold links earrings, with fancy teardrop cut smoky quartzes
More than 3,000 pieces produced to date endorse the professional track record of this designer, who is now carving a niche in the UAE.
08 Mannerist style 18kt yellow gold links earrings, with voluminous fancy cut amethysts 09 Portrait of Nuria Llamas
07
Interview with Nuria Llamas What drove you to pursue a career in jewellery design? Family tradition. Jewellery is a very exclusive and enclosed profession all over the world; it is a profession that normally passes from parents to children, and that’s what happened in my case. I could have dedicated myself to manufacturing or to commercialisation of jewellery, but it was design that seduced me. Why? Many people ask me this question and I always tell them that I chose this path because it allows me to pursue my interests, my natural need to communicate through aesthetics. Creation is passion and appreciation. The intensity demanded by serious work only makes sense when it is transformed into passion and it creates a bubble around your own world. I create from the métier, not from personal indulgence. I work with other codes.
How would you describe the style of your pieces? There is a French influenced taste and Spanish DNA. The added value of Spanish people, as designers, is in the connection we have with volume, with colour and with our ancestral traditions, many of them of great Arab influence. This gives us a very distinctive nuance in comparison with the rest of the world. By adding my French influenced education, you get to the essence of my creativity. For women, accessories have a very special relevance in the French influenced world and jewels are accessories with adorning purposes. Adorning for me means accompanying and enhancing. French people work from an
024-028 Jewellery - nuriallamas.indd 27
08
ensemble, from a whole. In this sense, I feel myself French influenced. French influenced taste is a Baroque taste where everything is part of an ensemble.
09
How do you find inspiration for your work? One piece of work always leads to the next one. It is the result of a flow of research and everyday work. You put all your knowledge in a mixer and then you interpret where the world of jewellery has to move forward. This causes a risk in each collection. It’s like diving into a swimming pool where you don’t know how much water there is going to be. This provokes a deep respect and fear in me, but I think that if I lose that feeling one day, then it will be the time for me to stop doing this work. There is a problem in the world of design nowadays. Marketing makes great effort in placing the brands in the top places of the market, and designers are set aside to feed this market according to guidelines that do not come from the views that designers are thought to have, but from the needs of the brands to get customers. I respect this kind of work, but I don’t identify myself with it. Brand and creation involve two different approaches. I think that creation must go a step further, that’s why I consider myself a creator. A creator has to work with passion, from deep within. And that’s how I do it, both with the unique and exclusive pieces that I present in my collections, as well as with the ‘made to order’ service, where, along with a customer, man or woman, I create a personalised jewel that always radiates a very special magic, closer to art than to consumer products.
09/06/2014 16:28
28
Jewellery
10
10 A selection of jewellery from the Gaudium collection by Nuria Llamas
Where do you source the materials for your designs? The jewels are noble materials and precious and semiprecious stones, but sometimes this combination as a creator, is a little bit limited for me and that’s why I pursue my interest in research, and put my efforts into RDI, because it allows me to look for and to find other materials which provide an exceptional result when combined with traditional raw materials in jewellery.
You feature a lot of animals, such as camels and horses in your work. Why is this? Nature is always an eternal strength of inspiration for any creator. It is also a challenge. Behind any design, no matter how abstract or realistic it may be, there is always a basis of observation of nature. It doesn’t have to be the traditional nature of the countryside; it may be about the nature of a city, a country, people... You get to obtain a result only from the ability to observe nature. In this case, the result is quite exceptional in my career; it is very realistic and has a lot to do with the inspiration period that I have chosen for my latest collection: Gaudium Collection. It is the Mannerist period, from the 15th to the 17th centuries, where this type of expression of nature was very characteristic.
Can you tell us about some of the collaborations you have taken part in? I have taken part in different collaborations throughout my career. They have all happened around my concept of creation, moving away from marketing in its essence, which I have tried to convey to different departments of brands such as Cartier and Carrera y Carrera amongst others. When the brands have asked for my collaboration, it has always been from the interest raised by this difference between creation and design.
What makes each piece of your jewellery unique? Passion, care, respect, mĂŠtier, dedication, my creative DNA...They are all ingredients of a recipe with a jewel as a final result. All pieces are different, but they all are made from the same criteria of creation and inspiration. There is no mould in my atelier.
024-028 Jewellery - nuriallamas.indd 28
09/06/2014 16:28
The Mark of Excellence Private & Personalised Banking
For additional information, please contact us on (+973) 7700 0111 or priority@kfh.com.bh
Kuwait Finance House-Bahrain BSC (c) PO Box 2066, Bahrain World Trade Center, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain Tel: (+973) 7777 7777, Fax: (+973) 7700 0600, Website: www.kfh.bh Licensed as an Islamic Retail Bank by the Central Bank of Bahrain
029-029 KFH Adv.indd 29
09/06/2014 16:28
30
Jewellery
Handcrafting jewellery since 1930, Al Zain is one of the oldest jewellery houses in the Kingdom of Bahrain. The family owned business prides itself on putting love and care into designing and meticulously crafting each piece, from a variety of precious gems and stones. Consistently delivering high quality collections to customers within the Middle East, Al Zain has now made a name for itself in the international market after recently showcasing at the JCK Show in Las Vegas. Durrah speaks with third generation Chairman Nabeel Al Zain to hear more.
Generations of Jewellers
S
tarting from the humble beginnings of a pearl merchant and growing into a multinational brand, Al Zain jewellery has come a long way. The family’s forefather, the late Hassan Al Zain, began the business as a trader of pearls back in 1930. During the days when Bahrain’s trade scene relied mostly on farming, fishing and pearl diving, he was regarded as a pioneering entrepreneur of his time. His son, the late Abdulla Al Zain joined the business soon after and became an essential asset to his father’s business concept. He expanded Al Zain’s geographic footprint by being one of the first to combine pearl and jewellery making in the Gulf. Abdulla had an inherent passion for pearls, an eye for beauty as well as a
030-033. Jewellery Al Zain.indd 30
progressive mind for business. He began incorporating the watch business into his jewellery trade and travelling to Italy and Switzerland in pursuit of the highest quality of products. In the early 1950s, Al Zain opened its first flagship store outside Bahrain in Khobar. This marked a true triumph for the company and the first of the several other shops that would later be launched in the region. The Al Zain outlet was re-established in 1977 where a new shop was opened on Tigar Road in the old Manama Souq. The sons of the late Abdulla Al Zain, along with the admirable manager and longtime friend Mohammed Hassan, managed the single most significant move to the Yateem Centre, located at the Bab-al-Bahrain Souq. This is where the Al Zain
09/06/2014 16:29
030-033. Jewellery Al Zain.indd 31
09/06/2014 16:29
32
Jewellery
workshop was first founded and was set up with only four to ten craftsmen, which continued to thrive and grow, employing over a hundred people today. It was son Nabeel Al Zain who put the urgency into Al Zain’s rapid expansion. Nabeel shared his father’s love for aesthetics, inherited his artistic eye for detail and appealed to his core values of integrity. Nabeel began steering the brand identity into a modern day enterprise. They soon started opening stores across the GCC and winning prestigious awards for their quality craftsmanship and were on the way to gaining recognition on a global scale. Having established such an iconic image in the Middle East for luxury high-end jewellery, the Al Zain team was initially anxious about entering the competitive international market. However after participating in the JCK Show in Las Vegas, all uncertainty was put to rest. Combining originality with high quality materials, Al Zain brought three distinctive collections to the show, conquering a new market and gaining international recognition. The three collections included the Arabdeco collection, Maharaja Collection, Bronze Collection as well as selected high jewellery pieces. The Arabdeco collection in particular received an impressive amount of attention for its delicate pieces, inspired by the fine details of the Art Deco Era and fused with Arabesque
motifs. The pieces are embellished with rose-cut diamonds, pearls, rubies, emeralds and diamond beads. It was a successful event especially for the positive feedback received, both on design and craftsmanship. Today, Nabeel stands proud to uphold the legacy of his father and grandfather. His undying dedication and motivation is evident in every last detail of the brand. His perseverance towards pursuing the best for the company has earned him and the next generation a solid, strong establishment for years to come. Nabeel Al Zain, together with Mohammed Hassan continues to instill the heart and soul of the company into his immediate family. His wife Samar Al Gosaibi, his two sons Mohammed and Faisal as well as his daughter Noora, all of whom form the management team at Al Zain, carry on the legacy that is Al Zain. As a team, part of their collective objective is to provide a level of knowledge and understanding to Al Zain’s customers and future generations. Through their practice, they aim to spread awareness and appreciation about the essence of their business and about the art of jewellery making. Working hand in hand, they continue to strive to keep the core of the brand alive, forever changing and adapting while keeping its story engrained in history but most importantly, always looking ahead towards a bright and beautiful future www.alzainjewellery.com
02 03
The pieces are embellished with rose-cut diamonds, pearls, rubies, emeralds and diamond beads. It was a successful event especially for the positive feedback received, both on design and craftsmanship.
01 The Al Zain family 02 The history of Al Zain dates back to the 1930s 03 Nabeel Al Zain inspecting a jewel 04 From the humble beginnings of a pearl merchant 05 Nabeel Al Zain at work
030-033. Jewellery Al Zain.indd 32
09/06/2014 16:29
04
05
Interview with Nabeel Al Zain What do you love about jewellery? My passion for jewellery is inborn. We are now entering our third generation as master jewellers and have accumulated a wealth of knowledge that helps us to appreciate and create exceptional pieces. Over time, I have grown to cherish each stage of the creation process – from the moment of inspiration to perfecting the designs, to ensuring the meticulous handcrafting of each piece, to finally seeing a finished masterpiece. I love that we have to continuously challenge ourselves to innovate alongside the evolving jewellery industry.
Can you describe the origins of your family business?
to establish and maintain authentic business and personal relationships globally. We believe in life-long relationships and being there for our clients through every stage of life; from birth, to graduation, to marriage and all the moments in between.
Where do you find your inspiration? I draw inspiration from all sorts of things around me, whether it may be our culture, heritage even nature or architecture.
Are you more interested in the business or creative side of the business?
Four generations ago, my father started off as a pearl merchant and quickly became known as a pioneering entrepreneur in the jewellery making business. Later, my father Abdulla took over the business and established the first jewellery house in Bahrain near the Bab Al-Bahrain souk, where we handcraft our jewellery until this day.
I am equally involved with both, but my passion thrives on the creative side of the business. Having had the chance to pursue this dream has enabled me to create a sphere of influence, stemming from our roots and touching the outside world. I am rewarded by the opportunity to be involved with designing exquisite jewellery that gets handcrafted for so those countless special moments in life.
What is the vision behind Al Zain jewellery?
How would you describe the jewellery industry in the Middle East?
Our vision is to continuously create jewellery of the highest quality and craftsmanship, enabling us
There is a unique quality to Middle Eastern jewellery that honours the patterns of our ethnic
030-033. Jewellery Al Zain.indd 33
origin whilst always keeping in line with the shifting modern trends. I believe that in our region the jewellery industry is full of potential and can only go from strength to more strength.
What do you enjoy about working with your family? It makes me excited and proud to have my children on board the family business. It is wonderful to have the support of family in the workplace, making every day an exchange of expertise, knowledge and ideas between us all. Their collective education and experience in the fields of marketing, business and design gives me the assurance that they will advance the business the best way possible in the future years to come.
Can you tell us about some future projects for Al Zain? Al Zain constantly aims to innovate and provide our customers with new and interesting designs. We are investing in our team, building on the skills they possess and strengthening our business. Our focus for the future is to expand internationally, particularly the US and Europe, where we have already seen promising results.
09/06/2014 16:29
034
Watches
S
ince its beginnings in 1775, the Manufacture Breguet has endeavoured to apply watch making excellence to exceptional timepieces. Today as in the past, the Breguet name stands for innovation, classic elegance and the quest for stylistic and technical perfection. Breguet’s craftsmen and women have through the generations eschewed the easy way out to extend the limits of time measurement with several exceptional innovations, the tourbillon being it’s most celebrated. The history of the company is marked out by well-designed timepieces with refined lines, such as the Classique 5377, the thinnest self-winding tourbillon wristwatch. Breguet’s artisans are not content just to show their unswerving adherence to the classic style, they constantly reinvent it. Its beauty is particularly conveyed by the company’s traditional stylistic features and the outstanding finishes achieved by the skilled hands of its master-craftsmen. Breguet is in fact one of the few manufacturers that does all its engine-turned engravings in the traditional way, and it has expanded its workshops at L’Orient to keep alive ancient craft skills. This investment not only demonstrates Breguet’s attachment to its roots, but also its intention to face the future with equanimity while maintaining the traditional work ethic of bygone independent watch makers. At only 7mm thick, the Extra-Plat is currently the thinnest automatic tourbillon in the world. It was first introduced in 2013 in rose gold, and now it is available in a 42mm platinum case. There is the same smooth, thin bezel and fluted case-band that you’re used to seeing from Breguet, but looking at the watch’s profile it’s hard to believe you’re holding an automatic tourbillon.
034-035 Watches - Breguet.indd 34
Time is Platinum Swiss watch maker Breguet has earned its name in history and is still exerting its influence in the world of watch making. With such inventions as the tourbillon – considered one of its finest inventions – Breguet has a lot to live up to when it comes to innovating the complication. The Classique Tourbillion Extra-Plat Automatique 5377 does not disappoint. Not only is the watch the world’s thinnest tourbillion, this is a timepiece that combines the best of traditional executions with thoroughly modern watch making technology, and is now available in platinum edition.
Sometimes watches this thin can suffer from looking flat, but because the caliber 581DR is only 3mm thick, there is a lot of visual depth on the dial and movement (which is visible through the sapphire case-back). Its looks are matched by ingenuity, for this extrathin watch houses one of the more spectacular horological inventions – an off-centred tourbillon in a titanium carriage protected by a number of patents. The movement of this reference 5377 is also fitted with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring and an escapement made of silicon and non-magnetic steel. Its technical features enable the calibre 581DR movement of this Classique Grande Complication to reach a frequency of 4Hz, which is high for a tourbillon. This does not imply any loss of power reserve, for the patented high-energy barrel keeps the reference 5377 going for up to 90 hours off the wrist. To keep the thickness of the movement down to 3mm in a 7mm-high case, Breguet designed a peripheral rotor in platinum, winding in both directions
of spin. This technical achievement makes the reference 5377 the thinnest self-winding tourbillon. The stylistic features of the dial of this 42 mm platinum wristwatch include four different engine-turned patterns executed by hand as a mark of respect for the old traditions of supreme workmanship and flawless finish. The hours and minutes chapter is enhanced by a clou de Parishob nail pattern edged by a barleycorn motif. The power-reserve indicator at 8:30 is decorated with engineturned strait chevrons, while each element has a crosshatched border. A blue sapphire set into the centre of the tourbillon bridge draws the eye to the hands. This new self-winding extra-thin Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon shows off its class as a pure Breguet creation, combining timeless styling and cutting-edge technology. Far from standing still, Breguet goes with the inexorable flow of time in the creation of fine timepieces. www.breguet.com
09/06/2014 16:30
034-035 Watches - Breguet.indd 35
09/06/2014 16:30
036
Watches
Airstream of Elegance The key to the sustainable success of a luxury brand lies in the never-ending quest for perfection. A prominent manifestation of this philosophy is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone ‘Como Edition’ created exclusively for this year’s Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este. In fascinating close-ups, it is presented with a backdrop of historic Rolls-Royce models.
S
trive for perfection in everything you do. Take the best that exists and make it better. When it does not exist, design it.” The motto on which the Rolls-Royce brand was founded in 1904 is in line with Ferdinand A. Lange’s mission statement when he formulated his ambition, some 60 years earlier, to build the world’s finest watches. When Ferdinand A. Lange established this watch manufactory in 1845, he laid the cornerstone of Saxony’s precision watch making industry. His precious pocket watches remain highly coveted among collectors all over the world. Today, Lange crafts only a few thousand wristwatches in gold or platinum per year, and they are endowed exclusively with proprietary movements that are lavishly decorated and assembled by hand. At this year’s Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este – the most significant of all events celebrating the mystique of Historic Cars – the Best of Show trophy was a one-of-akind A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone ‘Como Edition’.
036-037 Watches - a lange.indd 36
The timepiece was portrayed together with exclusive hallmarks of legendary Rolls-Royce models from the past one hundred years, and photographs were taken at the exhibition Strive for Perfection, which the BMW Museum in Munich is hosting until 30 September 2014. The time-zone watch poses with the ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’, the chrome figurine on the impressive signature grille of a Phantom I. It also cuts a good figure against the backdrop of an extravagant greyhound mascot in crystal that René Lalique created in the 1920s for the bonnet of a Rolls Royce 20/25 hp. With exquisite craftsmanship down to the last detail and advanced technical solutions, both brands share the quest for perfection with an unmatched fusion of style and finesse. It comes to the fore in the automotive masterpieces from Goodwood and in the high-precision timekeeping instruments from Saxony. The determination to never be satisfied with less than the best and instead to always strive for improvements
that exceed all expectations is the key to exceptional products that define benchmarks and write history. It is what makes handcrafted, highly precise timepieces and exclusive automobiles so unique. Therefore it was only natural to position the trophy with these renowned Rolls-Royce models of the last century. A. Lange & Söhne has been committed to the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este since 2012. The eminent competition for classic automobiles and concept cars took place on Lake Como from 23 to 25 May 2014, with the winner in the prestigious ‘Best of Show’ category receiving one-of-a-kind timepiece – as impeccable and unique as the extraordinary automobile selected by the jury. The case back of the Lange 1 Time Zone ‘Como Edition’ displays the hand-engraved coat of arms of the competition host. www.alange-soehne.com
09/06/2014 16:31
036-037 Watches - a lange.indd 37
09/06/2014 16:31
038
Watches
Graduation day is a significant milestone in one’s life, marking the beginning of a promising future. As a graduate prepares to take their first step into the real world, those near and dear feel immense pride and delight. With this thought in mind, illustrious Swiss watchmaker, Baume & Mercier have presented the perfect graduation gift to capture the essence of this celebration, with the Capeland timepiece.
A day to remember
S
ince its founding in 1830, Baume & Mercier have been dedicated to innovation and watch making excellence, and have quickly garnered international recognition as the watch brand with which to celebrate life’s special moments. Today, the brand continues with its design creed, artfully rising to the challenge of creating luxury timepieces that are inherently powerful and enticing – inside and out. Their unique style is evident in many important signature watch details, including ergonomic lines, and warm, earthy tones that reflect the brand’s territory, and are included in each collection. Technical excellence reigns in the company’s Capeland series and in each of these, Baume & Mercier pushes the envelope, adding important watch making characteristics that underline its dedication to precision
038-039 Watches - mercier.indd 38
and quality. The series deftly blends historical tradition with contemporary style and elegant appeal – enabling the wearer to celebrate each of life’s moments. A stylishly clever gift for the successful graduate, the Baume & Mercier Capeland timepiece was inspired by a 1948 single-push-piece chronograph vintage model. The generous round case of Capeland is classic yet relaxed, and offers a distinctive look. Designed for easy daily wear, the Capeland was conceived as a traveller’s watch. The charismatic series epitomizes a relaxed lifestyle and strength of character. Indeed, in the true scope of Baume &Mercier’s DNA, the Capeland resolutely embodies shapes, colours and authentic functions that uniquely represent the brand’s universe of seaside living at its best. The chronograph impresses with its 44mm diameter
09/06/2014 16:32
steel case with a balanced and dynamic design. Waterresistant to 50 meters, the timepiece is driven by a finely-crafted automatic mechanical calibre that is visible through a transparent sapphire case-back. Chic and elegant, it is proposed with a sun satin finished blue dial, snailed black counters and a date aperture. It also features two graduated scales: one tachymetric and the other telemetric highlighted by red markings. This sophisticated and sporty timepiece is worn with a black alligator strap closed by a triple adjustable folding clasp with security push-pieces. While Baume & Mercier is known for timing life’s moments, each of its collections also enjoys a specific and important moment in the development stage. In the 2012 Capeland unveilings, that significant moment emerged in the design stages. In fact, it was
038-039 Watches - mercier.indd 39
the input from the design team that led the brand to imagine an entirely new stainless steel bracelet. The design team was looking for a way to further enhance the generous curves that reinforce the Capeland’s vintage heritage, and that offer comfort and harmonious integration with the general aesthetic of the ‘galet’ pocket watch case design. The result of dedication to style and fit comes in the form not only of the new security folding clasp system, but also in decidedly curved bracelet links that offer a truly individual look. Baume & Mercier’s Capeland is the ideal token to make graduation day even more special for the one who is ready to take on the world! www.baume-et-mercier.com/en
09/06/2014 16:32
040
040-043 Perfume.indd 40
Perfume
09/06/2014 16:33
Bulgari Parfums have always been an expression of luxury, capturing the refinement and elegance of the brand. Their most recent offering however, has proven to be a step above the rest. Opera Prima is the latest unique perfume created by Bulgari in collaboration with glassmaker Venini, and was first showcased at the Master of Fragrances event in Abu Dhabi. The new fragrance is reminiscent of the Mediterranean with scents of lemon and orange blossom, and comes in a murano glass bottle adorned with gold and precious gemstones.
Essence of a Jewel
P
erfume was the first major product diversification in the history of Italian jewellery and luxury goods brand Bulgari, which originated in 1884. The policy and philosophy of the fragrance sector is as perfectly in line as excellence, service, and care for detail are to every project and creation process. Chairman Paolo Bulgari said, “I am a jeweller and not an expert on perfume – but there is one thing I can also do in perfumes: I can recognize quality even if I am not an expert, and top quality is what I have asked from all my people when we started this new venture”. In order to achieve this high level of quality, a separate perfume division of the Bulgari Group was founded in Neuchâtel in February 1993 after the brand launched its first fragrance, Eau Parfumée, Cologne au thévert in 1992. The division featured offices dedicated to product development and marketing and sales, and in January 1996 a production and product assembling sector was also created. Moreover, the company was concerned with the
042
Perfume
preservation of the environment, and thus continues to utilise environmentally friendly and recycled paper, as well as discarded glass, caps or packaging to create original and creative product displays. Bulgari Parfum’s vision unites talented designers and creators with prestigious perfumers to produce a product like no other. Extremely well-received, the fragrances were quick to expand, reaching out to every market and bringing the excellence and savoir-faire of its unique jewellery heritage into the world of perfumes. The first women’s fragrance, Bulgari pour Femme was introduced in 1994, followed in 1995 by Bulgari pour Homme, an eau de toilette for men characterized by freshness, simplicity, and purity. In 1996 a special Hotel Line was developed for the most exclusive hotels throughout the world, followed by Petits et Mamans, a fragrance dedicated to mothers and children, featuring a unique line including the gentlest type of tea and tender talc notes. Today, following a successful series of versatile and sophisticated best seller fragrances, the brand has released a perfume that is being described as the scent
of luxury. The Opera Prima, an elegant chypre essence with radiant and feminine notes, is a unique collaboration between two masters of Italian craftsmanship: Bulgari and Venini. The 30cm tall sculptural bottle crafted by the master glassmaker evokes the ancient Roman amphora, which held precious stones, spices and floral essences. Dazzling in its vivid combination of colours, the flacon is embellished with approximately 250 carats of citrine, more than 25 carats of diamonds and over 4.45 carats of amethyst cleverly set in yellow gold. The bottle also features a sheet of gold that has been melted between different layers of glass. The fragrance itself was created by Master Perfumer Daniela Andrier and recalls the essences of the Mediterranean, with notes of Italian Lemon, Orange Flower Absolute and Indonesian Patchouli. Continuing the tradition of bringing quality, originality and class to Bulgari Parfums, the Opera Prima brings an added level of luxury to the fragrance world, and can simply be thought of as an “haute couture” of perfume.
01-05 The making of the Opera Prima perfume by Italian glassmakers Venini 06 The finished product: Opera Prima by Bulgari
www.bulgari.com
Bulgari Parfum’s vision unites talented designers and creators with prestigious perfumers to produce a product like no other.
040-043 Perfume.indd 42
02
03
04
05
09/06/2014 16:33
06
040-043 Perfume.indd 43
09/06/2014 16:33
044
Perfume
040-048 Perfume - Diptuque.indd 44
09/06/2014 16:35
Passionate Perfumery Demanding, visionary and passionate; diptyque personal fragrances, skincare and home fragrances are imprinted with a distinctive olfactory signature. Made from the finest raw materials, motivated by the desire for an unexpected harmony, the creations express themselves in unusual ways to delight loyal and initiated fans and enlightened novices. Celebrating over half a century of perfumery, the brand has most recently paid homage to the irresistible radiance of lavender and geranium with two new floral creations.
T 02
040-048 Perfume - Diptuque.indd 45
he first diptyque store was opened in 1961 at 34 boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris, by three talented friends driven by the same creative passion. Interior decorator Christiane Gautrot, painter Desmond KnoxLeet, and theatre administrator and set designer Yves Coueslant, teamed up to transform the store into a world of its own. What resulted was a chic bazaar offering a fascinating variety of unexpected items unique to Paris, which the trio brought back from their travels. In 1963 they began to explore their love of fragrances, first with candles – Aubépine, Cannelle and Thé (Hawthorne, Cinnamon and Tea) – before launching their first eau de toilette, L’ Eau, in 1968. It was a dazzling start to an extensive compilation of fragrances, all bearing the iconic black lettering on the renowned oval label. For over fifty years since, diptyque has been developing a sophisticated collection of personal fragrances giving the perfume house a clear, distinctive
signature. Guided by a legacy as broad as it is deep, the brand continues to pursue creations unmatched in the palette of classical perfumery, blending scents to be worn by man or woman. Curious, open and cultivated, diptyque prefers to allow its perfumes to speak for themselves. The raw materials used to create each product are noble, rare, and precious, and finding the perfect balance is a slow, painstaking process. All the scents exalt a delicate simplicity, using essences and natural oils to truly proclaim their authenticity. Extolling the virtues of the luxury craft industry, a unique recipe is used for the wax in diptyque’s scented candles. In order to unleash the perfect effect, each candle is a blend of first-class waxes specifically amalgamated and assessed when hot and cold by wax experts. Every scent is blended to reach the right melting temperature. They contain 8-9 mineral waxes, and on occasion a few plant-based waxes to enhance them.
09/06/2014 16:35
046
Perfume
Advocating luxury craftsmanship, diptyque’s containers are unique and elegant; demonstrating handmade art and are instantly recognisable. The famous oval-shaped label with a parade of letters drawn in India ink and was first designed by Desmond Knox-Leet in 1963. The oval shape echoes the image of an 18thcentury medallion, and suggests the shields of ancient Rome. It is an emblematic label, perpetually reinvented and found on all products made by diptyque. While the dancing letters are a signature of the ovals in the home collection, the back labels of the Eaux de Toilette and Eaux de Parfum shows an illustration of each scent. Over the past decades diptyque has continually improved its know-how and currently offers 15 eaux de toilette, 4 Cologne, 24 home fragrances and innumerable scented candles. To celebrate 50 years of creation, the brand wanted to encapsulate the scent of its first boutique at 34 boulevard Saint- Germain with rare and precious fragrances, giving customers a part of the place and its history. The unique scent for the body and home was made of fresh, green notes for interior scents and a more sensual register for personal fragrances, and was
the perfect embodiment of the brand. The latest release of fragrances is part of the Les Florales collection, which is delicate, endearing and entrancing – paying homage to flowers in the irresistible radiance of their truly natural state. Following on from Eau Rose and Eau Mohéli, which celebrate rose and ylangylang respectively, diptyque has composed two new scented creations that bring lavender and geranium to the fore; Eau de Lavande and Geranium Odorata. Over the course of the House’s history, diptyque has extolled the idea of ultimate luxury, for oneself and without compromise. Whether it is a new fragrance for the home or body, developing their skin care line or taking part in collaboration with enlightened talents, designers and illustrators; this House is faithful to its creative heritage and stimulated by a permanent innovation to constantly improve the quality of its products. Attached to its history yet always looking forward, diptyque is blossoming, guided by an acute sense of what is beautiful and an insatiable curiosity.
01 Selection from the 34 boulevard saint germain collection 02 One of the new fragrances: Geranium Odorata roll on perfume 03 Bahrain Diptyque store at Al Hawaj in Seef 04 Inside the original Diptyque store at 34 boulevard SaintGermain in Paris 05 Figuier candle with birds – image from Instagram
www.diptyqueparis.com
Over the past decades diptyque has continually improved its know-how and currently offers 15 eaux de toilette, 4 Cologne, 24 home fragrances and innumerable scented candles.
03
040-048 Perfume - Diptuque.indd 46
04
09/06/2014 16:35
05
Interview with Diptyque Area Manager Celine Mall How would you describe the typical diptyque customer? I wouldn’t say that we have a typical diptyque customer, especially here in the Middle East. The brand has been around for quite a while now, so the client base has been evolving as we go. We have people around the GCC using our products that are loyal to the brand and have been for twenty to thirty years. The diptyque perfume was even known as the King’s perfume! Bahrain was actually the first export market for diptyque ever and the first time we sold abroad it was here, so Bahrainis really know the brand well. However in more general aspects we don’t really have a segmentation of our customer base, all the fragrances are both for men and women, young and old. There is no real distinction, which is part of our signature and what we want to give to the brand; we want to have an assortment that is wide enough to allow anyone with a taste for refined perfumery to find what they’re looking for.
What makes each perfume special in terms of the quality and craftsmanship? We put a lot of emphasis, work and time into selecting the finest raw ingredients, which we use in both our perfume creations and our candle creations. The creative process of diptyque is quite free so to speak, it’s not responsive to market demand. The idea comes first and
040-048 Perfume - Diptuque.indd 47
then the development, but basically selecting the high quality of raw ingredients, which we source on location – which not all brands will do – is vital to the brand. Sometimes the product creators will decide they want to work around a specific very high quality ingredient and then build a story around it. Other times, it’s an idea or a concept that inspires a product, for example when we decided we wanted to capture the scent of our original store at 34 boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris. We had so many clients walking in saying “I love this smell what is it?” and it was a bit of a tricky question because you can guess that after fifty years of spraying and burning candles, and the wood of the room having its own smell, it was just impossible to qualify! So it was a beautiful project to be able to capture this scent and express the quintessence of the diptyque store.
What are some of the inspirations behind each scent? There are several examples, 34 is one, which was based more around an idea. Sometimes the perfumers choose from a selection of raw material, for example choosing a high quality sandalwood from India. We source particular ingredients from far locations, for example for Eau Moheli we went looking and sourcing for a special type of ylang-ylang on one of the Comoros Islands – so that’s another illustration of how we work.
Of course we also have our original founders of the diptyque house, until not so long ago, Yves Coueslant was still in touch with our perfumers and would very often recall childhood memories; memories of travel, of places, of scents, and with this discussion going on, the perfumers would come up with ideas and say I want to recreate the scent of a summer trip in Greece and with this comes the Philosykos fragrance, a very popular perfume of diptyque.
How many candles are in your range? At the moment we have around 36 candle scents in our line, which come in different sizes, plus the 34 line, which is our signature. However of course we do keep moving and keep bringing up new creations to maintain an assortment that is dynamic and meets our clients’ needs. At the same time there is also a strong need for creation, so we keep bringing new projects all year long.
Do you take part in many collaborations with other brands? Yes, we actually have a lot of partnership with other artistic creators. Very often we collaborate for limited edition collections during special times such as Christmas or Valentine’s Day. The last collaboration to date is with a couple of French designers called Tsé & Tsé, who work around designing day to day objects in a very creative way.
09/06/2014 16:35
048
Perfume
Last year we also had a collaboration with a Japanese designer Minä Perhonen where we did candles with a very lean, clean and white design and created scents that are quite different to what we usually do, so it is always comes with quite interesting results. It is important for us to have this artistic touch, which is a big part of the brand as our founders were all artists.
Do you have any tips for choosing the scent best suited to someone? We have a very wide selection, the woody scents, the floral scents, the spicy scents; so you can pretty much find something to suit anyone. In a lot of the perfumes there are notes that are the hero of the fragrance, such as the rose scent; which if you’re after a flowery, powdery, feminine scent it works perfectly. In some of the fragrances we have an interesting situation where two of the hero scents ‘fight’ with one
another, but somehow through this opposition comes a very nice result. Therefore it is quite easy to categorise the perfumes and find the best fit.
How are Middle Eastern customers tastes unique compared to the rest of the world? Each country has its own specificity and of course we notice different bestsellers for each country Eau Mohéli is a bestseller in the Middle East, and the floral fragrances generally speaking are much preferred also.
Finally, what’s next for diptyque? So many things! We have very exciting launches ahead and we’ll be starting in May with two new perfumes, one built around lavender and one built around geranium, which are called Eau de Lavande and Geranium Odorata. As well as our skincare line these are many exciting new projects ahead for this brand.
06 07
08 06 Diptyque illustration 07 The popular Figuier candle 08 Philosykos fragrance, reminiscent of Yves Coueslant holidays in Greece
040-048 Perfume - Diptuque.indd 48
09/06/2014 16:35
049-049 Saudi Aviation.indd 49
09/06/2014 16:36
A Cultural Treasure 050
Special Feature
Strong and powerful in body yet gentle and companionable in spirit, the horse has served both kings and peasants in war, work, and play for thousands of years. Equine excellence is celebrated in the lavishly illustrated volume ‘Arabian Horses’, which captures the magnificence and grace of the horse with photographs by Wojtek Kwiatkowski and an informative text written by the legendary breeder and expert Judith E. Forbis.
A
creature of poetry and romance, passion and envy, mystery and majesty; the Arabian horse has inspired countless writers, poets, and artists for millennia. Ancient drawings in Arabia record its timeless form. Victorious steeds stand firm on Karnak’s venerated walls, while tales of King Solomon’s horses still enthral. These noble creatures were not merely revered as the honour of tribes and the precious resource of caravans, but were also regarded as vital instruments of war and a means of hunting. This large luxury edition ‘Arabian Horses’ explores the fascinating heritage of this dignified beast and celebrates a distinguished collection of twenty horses at the renowned Ajmal Arabian Stud farm in Kuwait. Owned by breeder Mohammed Al-Marzouq, it is considered a symbol of excellence in the breeding of Arabian horses worldwide.
050-055. Special Feature Horses.indd 50
09/06/2014 16:36
050-055. Special Feature Horses.indd 51
09/06/2014 16:37
052
Special Feature
050-055. Special Feature Horses.indd 52
09/06/2014 16:37
01 Image by Wojtek Kwiatkowski 02 Image from Arabian Horses 03 Image by Ajmal Tameen
050-055. Special Feature Horses.indd 53
09/06/2014 16:37
054
Special Feature
Judith E. Forbis first fell in love with Arabian horses after reading bestselling series ‘The Black Stallion’ by Walter Farley. The series chronicles the story of an Arab sheikh’s prized stallion after it comes into young owner Alec Ramsay’s possession. In 1957, Forbis travelled to Turkey with the International Cooperation Administration and rode her first Arabian mare and Turkish cavalry horses in jumping championships. Soon after, she married Donald Forbis and moved to Southeast Turkey, where she raced their Arabian horses. Her challenging adventures as the first woman jockey in the country were chronicled in her book, ‘Hoofbeats Along the Tigris’. In 1959, she and her husband founded Ansata Arabian Stud after importing Egyptian Arabian horses to United States, and the Ansata bloodlines are now foundation stock for royal, government, and private farms across the world. In 1969, Forbis cofounded The Pyramid Society, an Egyptian Arabian breed organization. Today, Judith E. Forbis is an international judge, lecturer, and consultant and has contributed to breed
magazines and books worldwide. She has authored ‘The Classic Arabian Horse’ and ‘Authentic Arabian Bloodstock’ Vol. I and II, and coauthored ‘The Abbas Pasha Manuscript’ and ‘The Royal Arabians of Egypt and The Stud of Henry B. Babson’. She has received numerous breed honours and, in 2004, was the first woman to receive the prestigious John W. Galbreath Award for outstanding entrepreneurship in the equine industry. Her latest accomplishment ‘Arabian Horses’ presents a complete study of the elegance and nobility that the horse embodies. Forbis writes about what she knows best and paints a vivid picture of the wonder of these creatures, accompanied with the stunning imagery of photographer Wojtek Kwiatkowski. This Ultimate Collection hand-bound limited edition features handtipped colour plates presented in a beautiful linen clamshell case.
04 Image by Wojtek Kwiatkowski
www.assouline.com
These noble creatures were not merely revered as the honour of tribes and the precious resource of caravans, but were also regarded as vital instruments of war and a means of hunting.
050-055. Special Feature Horses.indd 54
09/06/2014 16:37
050-055. Special Feature Horses.indd 55
09/06/2014 16:37
056
Fashion
Representing timeless style and design innovation, the trench coat is an icon synonymous with British fashion house Burberry. Over 100 years old, the design was first patented by Thomas Burberry in 1912 and lauded for its protective qualities, comfort and durability. Over the years, the coat was developed to serve the needs of officers in the early 20th century, to being worn by royalty, film stars and artists. Celebrating its rich and vivid history, the brand has introduced their Heritage Trench Coat Collection, presented in three colours and consisting of three new fits.
Entrenched in T History
he history of Burberry dates back to 1856, when the British luxury fashion house was founded by twenty-one year old dressmaker Thomas Burberry. The former draper’s apprentice opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England, and by 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire. From this came the Burberry trench, which was originally created to protect officers from wind and rain, and named after the trenches where military personnel were stationed. Now appearing across the globe, from London to Paris, New York to Shanghai; the Burberry trench coat has evolved over 100 years to become a fashion icon. The coat was first designed in 1912 as the Burberry Tielocken, and featured a belted closure without buttons. At the heart of the design was the tightly woven, waterproof cloth known as gabardine, which revolutionised rainwear when it was invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879. Before this innovation, fabrics were waxed or rubberised to repel water, making them heavy,
056-059 Fashion - Burberry.indd 56
09/06/2014 16:37
The colour of Burberry gabardine is strictly controlled and must be signed off by experts at the mill.
056-059 Fashion - Burberry.indd 57
09/06/2014 16:37
058
Fashion
stiff and uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time. Gabardine was made from yarn woven in a compact twill construction with over 100 interlaced threads per centimetre. The microscopic open spaces in the weave allowed ventilation, while the compact structure prevented rain from permeating the fabric. For extra protection, the cloth was then triple proofed, creating a lightweight, highly weatherproof and breathable garment. Woven at the Burberry mill in England, today gabardine is created using many of the traditional techniques that originally set it apart from other fabrics, alongside new and modern finishing processes that make it more water-repellent than ever before. From raw materials to finishing, every step in its production is carefully considered. The cotton is chosen for the fineness and length of its fibres, which give a clean surface texture and enhanced strength. This is then spun into yarn, which itself is super-strong and durable, created from two fine yarns twisted together in a process known as doubling. The colour of Burberry gabardine is strictly controlled and must be signed off by experts at the mill. After final approval, the fabric undergoes finishing and is checked twice more by eye to ensure the cloth is flawless. The new Heritage Trench Coat Collection from the brand has adhered to using gabardine fabric, as well as the strict quality craftsmanship Burberry has become known for. The collection is presented in three colours taken from the Burberry Heritage Archive – honey, stone and black – and comes in three different fits. The Sandringham slim fit, the Westminster classic fit, and the Kensington and Wiltshire (menswear only) modern fit. Each of the styles comes in varying lengths, giving consumers a new variety of options to cater to every taste. The aim behind the new
056-059 Fashion - Burberry.indd 58
02
09/06/2014 16:37
01 Children’s collection of the Sandringham trench coats 02 The women’s Kensington trench coat 03 The men’s Westminster trench coat
collection was to celebrate the iconic and classic trench, while listening to feedback and offering a fresh update to perfectly meet customer needs. Each of the pieces are handmade by expert workers in a nearly three week process in Castleford, England. The workers combine traditional techniques with modern technological developments, which include completing over 100 highly skilled processes, each one to ensure the quality and unique appearance of the coat. The most intricate of these is the stitching of the collar, which is unique to Burberry trench coats. It takes up to a year to learn to stitch the collar alone, using a method that is part of Burberry design heritage. The craftsman hand-places 11.5 tiny stitches per inch along the length of the collar to create a fluid curve, ensuring it is perfectly on the neck. The cuff straps and belt are constructed and stitched so that their edges are clean and flat, while the formation of the back pleat has not changed in 100 years, staying true to the design for horse riding. Each coat is lined with the iconic Burberry check – a badge of origin since the 1920s – which is made up of a signature combination of camel, ivory, red and black. Each lining is carefully cut and placed to ensure the check design is symmetrical and unbroken, while the under collar lining features a bias positioning, with the lines of the check meeting at exactly 45 degrees. What results from this lengthy and meticulous process is a trench to stand the test of time, providing the finest in quality and design. Burberry is revered for their excellent outerwear, and this collection continues to prove their commitment to tradition and incredible craftsmanship. www.burberry.com 03
056-059 Fashion - Burberry.indd 59
09/06/2014 16:38
Luxury Living in Durrat Marina • Villas • Apartments • Marina • Shops and Cafés
060-061 Durrat Marina .indd 60
09/06/2014 16:39
+973 77282800 060-061 Durrat Marina .indd 61
09/06/2014 16:39
062
062-065 Fashion 1.indd 62
Fashion
09/06/2014 16:39
One of the world’s leading men’s jewellery and accessories brands, Tateossian has built a desirable reputation as being contemporary, fashionforward and timeless. The seasonal collections have a distinctive signature constantly reflecting and reinterpreting trends in fashion, attracting a huge fan base of some of the world’s most high profile figures, including celebrities, professionals, politicians and heads of state. Durrah speaks exclusively to designer Robert Tateossian and gains insight into what makes this international luxury brand such a success.
Defining Style
B
orn in Kuwait and educated at French schools in Rome, Robert Tateossian studied international finance at the prestigious Wharton School of Finance in Pennsylvania, before embarking on a successful career with Merrill Lynch on Wall Street and in London. After seven years of working as an investment banker, Tateossian was ready to fulfil the ambition of starting his own business, taking a leap into the world of fashion. Tapping into his love of travel, ability to speak seven languages and skills acquired in the business world, Robert established Tateossian Limited in London in 1990. His creative flair, eye for luxury and attention to detail led him to jewellery and accessory design, setting up offices in London and initially a workshop in Birmingham - in the heart of England’s silversmith industry. The Tateossian collections see innovative materials, including precious and semi-precious stones and crystals mixed and paired in unique combinations, each piece with an element of surprise. Precious stones and materials are sourced from all around the world, from dinosaur bone
062-065 Fashion 1.indd 63
and meteorite to black diamonds, giving a unique and unusual aspect to designs. This singular approach has made Tateossian the destination for men and women who are confident with their own sense of style, and choose collectable pieces each season to reflect their individual approach to fashion. Working primarily in silver, as well as collections crafted in 18-carat gold, the pieces offer classic styles with a contemporary edge. Most importantly, they are exquisitely and individually hand-crafted, with an uncompromising level of quality that the discerning Tateossian customer has come to expect from the international luxury brand. While still creating the ultimate range of handcrafted, contemporary and unique cufflinks for discerning businessmen, the brand is now much more than a purveyor of stylish shirt sleeve fasteners for bankers and brokers. The men’s collection features a wide range of accessories from watches to money clips, rings, necklaces and bracelets all in keeping with the Tateossian trademark use of innovative and striking materials.
09/06/2014 16:39
064
Fashion
Tateossian’s range of women’s jewellery epitomises stylish elegance; all materials used are hand-finished using only the finest materials. Each piece is a statement, using eye-catching materials like fresh water pearls, precious metals and semi-precious gems in a myriad of colour combinations. Tateossian has been awarded for design excellence by securing the much coveted UK British Export Award for Accessories three times. In 2009, the brand won the acclaimed IJL Editor’s Choice Award and International Frontier Buyers Award. Tateossian also has an extensive private collection distribution network, working closely with some of the fashion industry’s most respected brands. Additionally, the company has a robust expansion program in the duty-free sector and sells on board some of the world’s leading airlines, including British Airways, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airways, JAL, American Airlines and All Nippon Airways. In 2001, Tateossian opened its first stand-alone retail boutique at The Royal Exchange in the City of
London, followed by its flagship store at The Duke of York Square on the King’s Road in Chelsea, in 2004. October 2008 marked the opening of a new store, the largest stand-alone in the UK, in The Village at Westfield London. In summer 2010 Tateossian opened its Conduit Street doors in the heart of London’s Bond Street. Robert Tateossian lives in - and runs the business from London, but still spends a majority of his time travelling around the world sourcing suppliers, meeting clients and gaining inspiration for his latest collections. The international company consists of over 70 employees with showrooms in London and New York. From Siberia to Saudi Arabia, Tateossian sells in over 50 countries around the world in the most prestigious, fashionable boutiques and department stores - Tsum in Moscow, Harrods in London, Saks in New York and Isetan in Tokyo to name just a few. www.tateossian.com 05
06
02
After seven years of working as an investment banker, Tateossian was ready to fulfil the ambition of starting his own business, taking a leap into the world of fashion.
03
04
062-065 Fashion 1.indd 64
09/06/2014 16:39
01 Duke of York London store 02 Silver click double scoubidou bracelet in black 03 RT Pendulum mechanical cufflinks in stainless steel 04 Ammonite cufflinks – limited edition 05 Swarovski grasshopper cufflinks 06 Inside Duke of York London store 07 Portrait of Robert Tateossian
Interview with Robert Tateossian Why did you first decide to venture into the creative world of design after working for seven years as a banker? Well there were a couple of things going on at the same time; first of all there was a niche in the market twenty-four years ago when I started the company. Cufflinks were more like an heirloom that was passed from father to son, so if you walk into a department store you wouldn’t have a cufflink counter for example. Also at that time I was twenty-seven years old and I really want to be my own boss and try and do something on my own. The golden rule for starting your own business is to give it three years...so I thought if I can try it out for three years and see what happens, and if I’m not successful can still go back into my old job and it won’t be too difficult.
Although they are quite different industries, how do you think banking helped you with starting your own fashion business? When you’re in banking you don’t do things just for the sake of doing them, you do all the financial analysis, and I think the designers a lot of the time do things just because of the brand building exercise. So I’ve taken those principals for my business in the sense that I will not do something unless it makes financial sense. It gave me the discipline to analyse a project from a financial and a business standpoint rather than just an emotional and visual side, which is more the fashion side.
You’re well known for the quirky and original cufflink designs, so where do you get inspiration for these normally? I’m lucky in the sense that I travel for about 70% of my time all over the world, and when I travel I’m constantly exposed to different exhibitions, art, furniture and architecture. For example when I just arrived in Bahrain I was coming from the airport and saw an amazing building which is all twisted, and I took a picture thinking ‘oh wow this could be an amazing cufflink!’ In my travels I go everywhere from the Middle East to places like Japan in Asia which is very inspiring, to Milan once a week. In Milan we design for a lot of big labels, and of course in Italy working with designers I get influenced as I’m exposed to fashion and what’s going on in that world. Every year I try and
062-065 Fashion 1.indd 65
07
go somewhere that I’ve never been before, and these are all incredibly inspiring trips.
Where did your love of cufflinks and style in general first come from? As a banker in the city of London you will notice that every banker – even the most junior associate – wears cufflinks. So that’s where I first started wearing them, and once I started I thought it was nice as it was one of the few pieces of jewellery that a man could actually get away with wearing.
Each season you release a new cufflink collection, can you tell us a bit about these? We have different collections targeted to different audiences starting from gold to silver to non-silver, and within each collection we have sub-collections that target different groups. So for example we’ll always do something with Swarovski crystals, and always do something with mechanicals and the little gears which people know and love us for. We’ll also do super quirky things, like right now we have a real ant encapsulated inside a cufflink, a scorpion, a dragonfly, a beetle, a ladybug – so completely wacky stuff. Some are formal, some are crazy, some are mechanical, some are Swarovski, and then we just build on that.
You’ve been very successful with your label, what do you think are some of the factors that contributed to this? I think to be successful in this industry you have to have a number of different objectives when you start out. First of all the product has to be very unique; you can’t be introducing something that everyone else carries. You also have to remain innovative season after season rather than just produce a product once and then sit back; you must show newness and freshness of ideas. You also have to provide very good customer service no matter what. Having your own business is quite tough in that you face so many obstacles and it’s very easy to give up and say ‘ok I’ll go back to banking’ or go and work for someone. So you have to have the perseverance to continue your dream and your objective in the face of adversity and believe in what you do. Lastly, you have to have your signature in the sense that somebody
should be able to look at your pieces and say ‘oh, this is Tateossian’ because it has that signature look that is so identifiable.
You speak seven languages and have travelled your whole life. Do you think that your global background has helped you develop your business on a more international level? There’s no question that having grown up all over the world has helped me build my business. Firstly, speaking languages is a great tool to get closer and understand and communicate with the client. Secondly, by understanding 03 the local culture you’re able to adapt your collection to suit that culture. I think we’re successful in the Middle East because I grew up in the Middle East and understand certain ways of doing business here and what people like. Similarly, we source a lot of things from Italy and if I didn’t speak Italian I would not be so successful in negotiating deals with the Italian suppliers, because a lot of them are small companies who don’t speak English. Also, I have no fear of getting on a plane and coming to meet a journalist or meet a client!
How would you describe the market in the Middle East? It’s actually a very fragmented market and each country is different to another quite dramatically. For example the cufflinks that men in Qatar wear are very distinct and different from the ones in Saudi, such as in size and length based on their clothing. In Saudi Arabia they also prefer branded brands and in Dubai they are a lot more open to fashion, so usually we design capsule collections specifically for each area.
What is next for Robert Tateossian? Right now we are most known for our cufflinks and our bracelets, as well as our other accessories like watches, necklaces, money clips and tie clips. We are developing into an all-rounded men’s accessory brand, expanding into leather accessories like wallets, business cases, accessories for iPhones and iPads, which will be combining leather and semi-precious stones. We will possibly even be including sunglasses and perfumes, so eventually we can open stand alone stores all over the world that can be all men’s accessories stores for anything you need.
09/06/2014 16:39
066
Fashion
The Céline woman is one who likes her luxury understated, but still making a statement, and one who looks for comfort, but not at the sacrifice of style. The brand’s fall/winter 2014 ready-to-wear collection exemplified all that the brand was about, with sleek, thirties-styled tailoring and formal, fullskirted styles that caught the eye of the fashion industry.
Chic Couture
C
éline was founded in Paris way back in 1945, the brand was originally created as a made-tomeasure children’s shoe business that eventually grew into women’s shoes and accessories. American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997, and during his tenure turned the fashion house around with blockbuster accessories and a critically acclaimed ready-to-wear line. Although the label garnered headlines when it was revived by Kors in the late nineties, it was Phoebe Philo who truly brought the luxury French fashion house to the forefront. Phoebe Philo started as Creative Director at Céline in October 2008 and presented her first ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2010 at Paris Fashion Week to rave reviews. Critics credited her with pushing fashion in a new direction, towards a more spare, stripped-down kind of sophistication. What Céline now offered women was, as one magazine put it, “a grown-up and hip way to put themselves together.”
066-067 Fashion 2.indd 66
Today the brand continues to present women with a line of clothing that not only offers them supreme comfort and quality, but is the epitome of high fashion and style. The aesthetic has been described as ‘luxe sportswear with couture-like finishing’, and not created for the sake of spectacle, but for real life. The Céline Fall/Winter ready-to-wear collection recently hit the runways and has received an enormous amount of global praise, with reviews predicting immediate success of the line once it hits stores. The thirties were on Philo’s mind as she designed the collection, which showcased long form fitting ribbed knit sweaters, full high-waist trousers, panelled skirts, and oversized outerwear as well as some leaner hourglass coats with big button closures. Print came in the form of leopard spots, colour was spots of sky blue and bright yellow tones, and embellishment was in the shape of crystal adorned dresses and coats, featuring feather-light wispy adornments. The silhouette was more streamlined than
09/06/2014 16:40
the brand’s spring collection however. Coats fit close to the body with cocoon-like shapes, while knits are long and lean worn over wool skirts. “I very much wanted women in men’s clothes, but it was a complex idea so we brought it back to a quite feminine silhouette,” Philo says of her work. However despite the masculine elements in the collection – the oversize, man-styled trousers, for one – Philo’s preferred emphasis was the tenderness of the clothes. “I wanted them to feel touched by human hands,” she explained. The shoe of choice this season was a leather wedged sandal with an ankle strap, while Philo created bags with dull hardware and a stitching-like embroidery. Thanks to Philo, the discreet charm of the French label continues to satisfy and answer the needs of fashionistas across the globe, with many pieces having the ability to transform into instant classics. www.celine.com
066-067 Fashion 2.indd 67
09/06/2014 16:40
068
Masterpiece
Painting from the Heart
Since childhood, Erna Goudbeek has loved to draw. The artist was born in Almelo, a town in the province of Overijssel in the Netherlands in 1966 and grew up practicing her skill. It wasn’t long until her hobby became a true passion, leading to a career in creating magnificent oil paintings that have gained international recognition and praise. Today the artist creates masterpieces with a focus on wildlife, including Arabian horses, falcons and hunting dogs, with exhibitions across Europe and the Middle East. Erna spoke with Durrah to describe her journey so far, what gives her inspiration, and to offer advice for aspiring artists.
How did your love for art first arise?
01
One of my first loves as a child was drawing by pencil; I spent all my time drawing, animals mostly. In 1999 while I was still working at the NATO Base in Vriezenveen in the Netherlands, I pursued this love of drawing animals but moved on to pastels. By 2000, I decided to broaden my skills particularly painting and by joining a group of watercolour painters in Almelo, Holland. I worked with watercolours for another two years. In 2002, I made two major decisions in my life: I stopped working at the NATO Base and moved with my partner Brian to Neugnadenfeld, a small village in Germany, and I learned to paint with oils. I was part of a painters group in Almelo (the Netherlands), the Peinturisten. This is when I feel my love and passion for my work really began.
How did you develop your artistic skill? While working with other painters in the Peinturisten I studied with Mr. Guust van den Noort, a Dutch old Master! When he was young he in turn studied with a
068-071 Masterpiece 1.indd 68
Master of the school of Den Hague. He gave me a great gift; the confidence to paint (he always told me that I am a natural talent). This in turn gave me the will to develop my own technique. I believe by just following my inner artist and feeling at one with my work, I could experiment with different styles and techniques. Alas, I am also a perfectionist, and I am never satisfied. I strive with each piece to get better become the best artist I can be.
Where do you get your inspiration for painting? I have always loved city life. But at heart in this little German village where I live, surrounded by nature and wildlife, I find the inspiration I need to create my oil paintings. Here, I feel like I’ve gone back in time yet finally have come home and settled down. My partner Brian built a gallery for me; he is as passionate about my work as I am. When I am not travelling to events, exhibitions, or Belgium and British Falconry fairs – incidentally where I find a great deal of my
09/06/2014 16:41
02
068-071 Masterpiece 1.indd 69
09/06/2014 16:41
070
Masterpiece
inspiration – you can find me in my gallery where I can work peacefully, just painting. However, I continue to be inspired by the Dutch old Masters (fine art) and the impressionistic oil painters of the school of Den Haque. As I have grown as an artist, I still feel heavily influenced by my teacher Mr. Guust van den Noort. Unfortunately, he recently passed away, but I feel he is always with me. When I need to, I just think of his last words: “I believe in you and you will get there, just keep painting with your heart”.
What is it about painting animals that you enjoy? Animals are both beautiful and awe inspiring. They exemplify aspects of life force that I wish to portray in my work. Like the purity and grace of an owl, or the strength of a horse or dog, the intensity of the hunt and stare of a bird of prey; their passion for life is the same passion I want to demonstrate in the feeling of my paintings. I want their presence to come to life on canvas.
Can you explain your creative process? I am most at peace while listening to beautiful music or just the sounds of nature around me when I start to think about painting. Each layer upon layer brings the painting to life. I spend time looking at my work from angles and from a distance to gauge its potential impact on the viewer and to find the right “next wave of the brush” to evoke the greatest feelings. In my natural work I use quite fine detail in the painting, which means I work with very small brushes. As you can imagine it takes a lot of time to complete, but I use this process to explore my own emotional expressions. There are times I feel my hand is being guided.
What has the response to your work been like? Overwhelming! When I am painting, I can express my true emotional self in the work. I know I have been successful when I see that same depth of emotional response in the eyes of those who view my paintings.
01 Erna Goudbeek with Oil Painting in progress. Horse Racing in Bahrain 1.22 x 74cm 02 Oil Painting Arabian Horse in the Desert 50 x 60cm 03 Oil Painting The Pointer Look 50 x 60cm
The response has been worldwide. Fortunately, my work has garnered a following and I have received a number of commissions. Time and time again, I hear the same response, “Your paintings are alive”. I try and give the work light and depth, people want to not only be affected by them emotionally, but also want to physically touch the work itself. It has been humbling.
What are some of your proudest achievements? To be the artist I always wanted to be and to follow my passion. I took a risk when I gave up a career that I worked very hard to achieve. Being an international artist of some standing is a dream come true. Some of my successes have led me travel to exhibit in places I never thought I would ever go. In December 2011, I was invited to the 3rd International Festival of Falconry in Abu Dhabi (Al Ain) UAE representing the Netherlands with two of my paintings as a finalist in the art competition. I was also invited along with two other amazing artists to Mara’ee in Bahrain in March 2014 to exhibit my work and I had the opportunity to show my work to His Majesty King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa, the King of Bahrain. He was very impressed and for such an auspicious client I have worked very closely with him and his team to create a work that he has now added to his collection. To my amazement while in Bahrain, I was delighted to hear that one of my oil paintings was selected for the David Shephard Wildlife Artist of the Year 2014 exhibition at the Mall Galleries in London.
Can you tell us more about your recent Mara’ee experience in Bahrain? It was amazing! I am so grateful to everyone who made it possible for me and for the assistance that I received. It was an auspicious and incredibly professional exhibit, yet everyone made me feel so welcome. It was a wonderful experience to meet the King of Bahrain and present my work to him during the VIP opening. It is a great compliment that His Majesty loved my work. I gave an interview on local Arabian TV and I met some very influential people from the Middle East who were
all appreciative of my work. I felt like being in the right place to show my paintings.
Do you hope to revisit the Middle East in future? Nothing would give me more pleasure then to return to the Middle East. My paintings were so passionately received (the response was overwhelming) that I felt it was tailor made to exhibit my paintings. It enabled me to demonstrate the true emotional engagement in my paintings. Since my first works of the white gyrfalcon, my dream was to show my Birds of Prey and Arabian horses in the Middle East. It was just a gut feeling inside that I had to be there! My dream came true and I hope to be there many more times in the future.
What advice can you give to aspiring artists? Never give up on your passion! Love what you do, because it is who you are. No matter if you are formally trained or self taught, keep painting with your heart. Work hard, we all have to. It all takes time, but if you really want to succeed, you will.
What’s next for you? I have several new projects and commissions now in my gallery. My goal is to continue to progress and explore new events and exhibitions internationally.
Where is the best place to see or purchase your work? My gallery, based at my house in Germany, is the best place to view my work, but you can purchase my work at my website. Of course if you use social media you can view my facebook page and you can follow me on Twitter @GoudbeekErna. I do all kinds of work and am happy to discuss special requests as I have worked with other subjects that are personal for my clients. And keep your eyes open for future exhibitions, equestrian and falconry fairs which will be mentioned on my website. www.ernagoudbeek.com
I am most at peace while listening to beautiful music or just the sounds of nature around me when I start to think about painting.
04 Oil Painting Portrait of an Arabian Horse 50 x 70cm 05 Oil Painting Saker Falcons 70 x 80cm
068-071 Masterpiece 1.indd 70
09/06/2014 16:41
03 04
068-071 Masterpiece 1.indd 71
05
09/06/2014 16:41
SMART & LUXURIOUS Fairooz Ad DURRAH DPS To Press V3.indd All Pages 072-073 Durrat Al Bahrain .indd 72
09/06/2014 16:42
FAYROOZ 800 At Durrat Al Bahrain, A spectacular cluster of interlinking islands with a unique mix of residential, community, leisure and sporting facilities. Fayrooz 4 and 5 boast stunning communal areas, luxurious sea front villas and a host of facilities to keep all residents entertained.
Visit DURRATBAHRAIN.COM or call +973 36060899 072-073 Durrat Al Bahrain .indd 73
5/22/14 12:25 PM 09/06/2014 16:42
074
Masterpiece
074-079 Masterpiece 02.indd 74
09/06/2014 16:43
Glass legacy D
ale Chihuly is not just a major player in the art world; he’s one of those rare people who have actually changed the game,” wrote Ben Bamsey in Artworks magazine. “While glass has been around for 5,000 years and artists have been blowing it for 2,000, Chihuly came along and changed the shape and scale of the medium, also the way in which it is crafted and presented. Chihuly and his team have invented more techniques than can be stuffed into a da Vinci sketchbook. His revolutionary approach to glass blowing elevated the industry from craft to fine art.” Born on 20 September 1941 in Tacoma, Washington, by earliest childhood Chihuly was already fascinated by the qualities of glass, collecting pieces he found on the beaches of Puget Sound. He learned to melt and fuse glass while studying interior design and architecture at the University of Washington in Seattle in the early 1960s, and won his first award as an undergraduate from the Seattle Weavers’ Guild in 1964, for innovative use of glass and fibre. His talents were clear from the start, and after
074-079 Masterpiece 02.indd 75
American artist Dale Chihuly is known for pushing the boundaries when it comes to the world of glass sculpting. His works are considered unique due to their large scale proportions, vivid use of colour and trademark aesthetic. From the famous 2,000 flowers of Fiori di Como in Las Vegas, to the 18 meter sculpture in the reception of Atlantis, The Palm in Dubai –a Chihuly piece is instantly recognisable. Durrah had the privilege of speaking to the artist, and finding out more about his creative journey, after more than fifty years in the business.
working as a designer at John Graham Architects in Seattle in 1965, Chihuly won a scholarship enabling him to enrol for a Master of Science in sculpture at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. There he took part in America’s first hot-glass programme, run by the founder of the studio glass movement. His training continued with a Master of Fine Arts in ceramics at the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence, where he embarked on installations of blown glass. Forming organic shapes as much by gravity as by tooling, he filled them with gas that vividly illuminated constructions the size of a room. In 1968, Chihuly used a Fulbright Fellowship to visit Europe and became the first American glassblower to work at the Venini factory in Venice on the island of Murano, where glassmaking has thrived since the tenth century. The Italian practice of teamwork contrasted with Littleton’s more individualised approach and was to become a significant method of working for Chihuly and his team. Returning to the United States, he set up a glass programme at RISD and taught there for the
09/06/2014 16:43
076
Masterpiece
01 Dale Chihuly, The Sun, 2014. Berkeley Square, London. 4.2 x 4.2 x 4.2m. Image by Paul Brown, Demotix 02 Dale Chihuly, Amber and Gold chandelier 2014. Harrods, London 03 Dale Chihuly, Lumiere Blue Chandelier (detail), 2013. 60 x 64 x 63. 152.4 x 152.4 x 152.4cm 04 Dale Chihuly, Persian Ceiling, 1999. 35 x 141/2’. Chihuly Garden and Glass, Seattle, Washington, 2012
02 03
next 11 years, additionally co-founding Pilchuck Glass School, an international centre in Washington State. Despite two serious accidents in the 1970s that left him without sight in his left eye and with a damaged shoulder, Chihuly has pursued a long and successful creative career, conceiving and supervising the realisation of fantastic works of art in glass, recording ephemeral works on camera and DVD, publishing over twenty books and forever extending the range of glass art in the open air. His sources of inspiration are diverse, including Native American art and Japanese flower arranging, the sea and Italian glassware of the interwar years. Chihuly originates his concepts as drawings or paintings, working at floor level to create fluid designs that are a festival of motion and colour. While his earlier works were more muted, many subsequent installations are intensely colourful, either exploring one vibrant shade, or as a kaleidoscopic display. He has constantly experimented with line, fusing glass threads into blanket cylinders, ribbing the surfaces of seaforms and basing the entire forms of chandeliers and towers on a vast nest of intertwining, elongated tubes of blown glass. Chihuly’s largest projects are linked with architecture and landscape. Indoors he may create a tower to fill a stairwell or fashion a ceiling of
074-079 Masterpiece 02.indd 76
multicoloured glass pieces, while outside he has hung breathtaking chandeliers. With organic forms that sometimes blend in with their surroundings and sometimes startle, he invents gardens of delight where sunlight plays on delicately translucent surfaces and nature and art interact subtly. The recipient of many awards, Chihuly holds eleven honorary doctorates and two fellowships from the National Endowment for the Arts. His works are held in the permanent collections of over 225 museums worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, the National Museum of Modern Art in Tokyo and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Among his private collectors are Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and Sir Elton John. Since 1967 he has exhibited internationally, from Brazil to New Zealand and from Iceland to Japan and during the past decade, 97 exhibitions in seven countries presented his artworks for the enjoyment of more than 10 million people. Chihuly is truly one of a kind. There is no doubt he has changed the way we look at glass, and his legacy and contribution to the world of art will continue for many years to come. www.chihuly.com
09/06/2014 16:43
04
074-079 Masterpiece 02.indd 77
09/06/2014 16:43
078
Masterpiece
074-079 Masterpiece 02.indd 78
09/06/2014 16:43
05 Dale Chihuly, Cranberry Spire Chandelier (detail), 2013. 76 x 76 x 75. 193 x 193 x 190.5cm 06 Portrait of Dale Chihuly at work
05
06
Interview Dale Chihuly What fascinates you most about glass? Glass is magical. It transmits light in a special way and at any moment it might break. It is full of potential as a medium. It’s the most magical of all materials.
Where do you find most inspiration for your pieces? I don’t really know where the ideas come from. They come from a lot of different places. One of the most important inspirations for me is the glass itself and the glassblowing process. This wondrous event of blowing human air down a blowpipe and out comes this form. There’s no other material in the world that can be blown like glass...it’s a completely unique process for a very magical material.
Teamwork has been an important part of your design process. How has this worked in your favour? My Dad was a union organizer and worked with a big team. Maybe my knack for teamwork came from him? Ever since I went to college I’ve been working with a team. Studying in Murano in 1967 and 1968 taught me how a team really functions but I already had been working with a small team before in graduate school. Glassblowing is not easy to do by yourself – it’s much easier with an assistant or a team. Teamwork suits me. I enjoy working with people, and I always want to do bigger, more complicated projects. I don’t miss glassblowing
074-079 Masterpiece 02.indd 79
much. I am more interested in the product than the glassblowing itself.
What do you think are some of the secrets to your success? I’m lucky my work appeals to such a wide section of people of all ages. It’s more accessible than most public work. A lot of that has to do with the material. People for centuries have been fascinated with glass, coloured or crystal.
One of your amazing pieces features in Atlantis, The Palm in Dubai. Do you have further plans to bring your work to the Middle East? I’d love to do more work in the Middle East if the opportunity presents itself.
What advice could you offer to young artists starting out? I would tell them to do what I did and follow your dream; your passion. Follow your gut and create something no one has seen before. Surround yourself with the things and people who inspire you. Go live and work with other artists. It’s the best way to learn.
What’s next for you? I’ve got exhibitions and gallery shows opening in Denver, Colorado and Dublin, Ireland this summer and I’m really looking forward to spending time in both locations.
09/06/2014 16:43
080
Masterpiece
Connecting Culture 080-083 Masterpiece - Hendrik.indd 80
Following an extraordinary journey that led the KZNSA Gallery to the Middle East, artist Hendrik Stroebel opened ‘Reconnect’ in Dubai on the occasion of Dubai Art Week and Art Dubai 2013. Stroebel’s exhibition invited audiences to look closely and be overwhelmed by the scope and craft of the beauty. It presented a spectacular worldview where ideas, influences and creativity collide; escaping categorisation.
I
n June 2011, South African artist Hendrik Stroebel presented his solo exhibition ‘Recollect’ at the KZNSA Gallery in Durban, South Africa. The content of the work explored the pattern and texture of the Arab and Islamic world, as he portrayed the architecture, ancient history and people that so fascinated him on his travels. The artist’s abiding interest in antiquity was literally woven into the images. ‘Reconnect’ opened on the occasion of Art Dubai – one of the world’s largest contemporary Art Fairs, in Dubai in 2013. Stroebel’s lifelong journey is quite literally returning ‘home’ to the well spring of the artist’s inspiration. In the ‘Reconnect’ exhibition, Stroebel skilfully utilised painting, drawing, embroideries and ceramics to create an exhibition of breathtaking beauty, underpinned by passion and dedication. His work reinforces the power of the hand-crafted: each item is witness to and speaks truth of the skill and dedication of those most precious elements, the human time and human care taken to make it. Stroebel’s exhibition showed a constellation of ideas, emotions and the beauty that is truth. Stroebel’s work abounds with mysticism and symbols that give voice to the artist’s vision and intuition, which clearly resounds with viewers. Most notable within ‘Reconnect’ is the eight-pointed star – a familiar shape made by overlapping two squares.
The roots of the eight-pointed star symbol relate to early astronomy, and it appears in cultures around the globe. The eight lines are symbolic of the four compass points, the two solstices and two equinoxes. Its universal symbolism is one of balance, harmony and cosmic order. Its pattern is also associated with religion, and with mysticism. It signifies both stars and humanity’s earliest attempts to understand and communicate the order and unity inherent in Creation, nature’s rule. By the Middle Ages, the eight-pointed star became widely used as a symbol in Islamic art. It is called ‘khatim’ or ‘khatim sulayman’, the seal of the prophets. In this way, the khatam represents the highest virtues, namely: learning, community, faith, and love of beauty. It stands as a symbol of early astronomy, interconnectedness, and faith in the ultimate harmony of Creation. To return to the theme of beauty, the exhibition reinforces that very particular aesthetic which is achieved through the combination of intellect and excellent craftsmanship. When these two are in harmony, the object takes on a life of its own, and Stroebel has succeeded in creating that alchemy which transforms the mundane into the magical. showcaseuae.com/artists/hendrik-stroebel
09/06/2014 16:44
080-083 Masterpiece - Hendrik.indd 81
09/06/2014 16:44
082
Masterpiece
The artist’s abiding interest in antiquity was literally woven into the images.
Interview with Hendrik Stroebel How did you get started as an artist? There were never any other options for me, it is part of my bloodline to do art, with both my grandmothers and a great grandfather that found artistic expression with their mastery of creative sewing and other related crafts. My mother did superb petit point embroidery, which informed my early childhood, and after school I studied art with painting as a major subject. Later on ceramics followed and my own freestyle embroidery that I now find as an ongoing artistic pursuit.
How has your home South Africa influenced your work? Durban, the city where I live in South Africa is a Port city on the shores of the Indian Ocean. It’s very tropical and a rich cultural mix; African, Indian and European, it’s also diverse and united by our legacies in architecture, cuisine, and music and different belief systems. Here also are wonderful examples of Hindu and Islamic temples/mosques, and it is this Eastern influence that influenced me and is still an ongoing pursuit with my travels to inform and enrich my artistic journey.
What is your main inspiration? Travel is my main source of inspiration that informs my work, and specifically Islamic countries. I have travelled five times to Turkey the journey from Istanbul to eastern Turkey, the Mediterranean coast, and the black sea. I have a great passion for antiquity and Turkey is a rich source of Greek and Roman sites, the great mosques and the remains of the Ottoman Empire with Iznik tiles, and the great tradition of Islamic ornamentation. I am totally in awe of the balance between architecture and decoration found in Islamic monuments. Egypt is also a great source of antiquity, pharonic and the sublime Museum of Islamic art in Cairo. I also travelled to Iran in search of Persia and found Persepolis, Arg-e-Bam, Kashan, Kerman, Yazd, Shiraz and Isfahan too, forever etched. I still draw on the inspirations of Persian carpets and the dazzling array of tiles that adorn much of the Islamic monuments (mosques). I also encountered this in Uzbekistan and the three glorious cities of Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand. I travelled to Jordan to view Petra and Jerash and hopefully I can still go to Iraq and to Syria in a more peaceful time. I soak in all these elements and the daily
080-083 Masterpiece - Hendrik.indd 82
life and wonderful people that I have met, and all this is my source of inspiration.
How would you describe your style as an artist? The simple answer would be mixed media, the combinations of materials; ceramic, carved wood, bronze, embroidery and the souvenirs that I collect when I travel. For example, with the work ‘Remains of Tamerlane’ in the centre of the remade wooden oriental screen is a tiny painting that I bought in a souk in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Turquoise ceramic Islamic amulets that I bought in Cairo are also included as references and adornments in the frames that become part of a work. I suppose I have a sentimental soul.
02 03
How long does it normally take you to complete a piece of art? There are different time spans for works that include handmade frames of either carved wood or ceramic, or a combination of metal insets. Processes are time consuming and the embroidery takes time. It requires immense concentration for the layers of ‘glazing’ with 1 or 2 threads, to achieve subtle effects. Clay is a much more immediate process and also more expressive, and I am intrigued with the different effects of glazes – this is always a rather elusive process as the outcome always has a surprise element. Some work takes years in the making and ‘Iran Persia’ took over a year to embroider.
How did you develop a fascination with the Arab and Islamic world? The inspiration started here in Durban with our own Islamic places of worship. The countries with the great legacies of antiquity are concentrated around the Middle East and Central Asia, and also happen to be Islamic countries, so the stimulus is diverse and the remains of different cultures are all mixed with the pulse of modern society.
What was your experience at Dubai Art Week like? It was a wonderful experience to be part of Art Dubai with a solo exhibition in the Showcase Gallery. The fact that I exhibited in the UAE and that the work found such a resonance there was wonderful. I was
09/06/2014 16:44
01 Turquoise Domes Samarkand (2012): Embroidery with ceramic frame; 30 x 22cm 02 A section from Stars (2006 -2009): Glazed ceramic tiles; 19 x 19cm 03 Portrait, Alexander (2011): Embroidery with ceramic frame; 25 x 18cm 04 Marhaban (2000): Earthenware with glaze; 70 x 82cm
also informed of the broader aspect of contemporary art of the region and that Dubai Art is such an important global event.
Can you tell us about the meaning behind the ‘Reconnect’ exhibition? In 2011 my exhibition ‘Recollect’ opened at the KZNSA gallery in Durban, and this was the culmination of 16 years of work. An art Patron from Dubai saw the exhibition and purchased eight works. He also promised me an exhibition in Dubai, so after the KZNSA gallery teamed up with Showcase Gallery in Dubai, my exhibition ‘Reconnect’ opened during Art Dubai in March 2013. ‘Recollect’ was the ideas and images gathered from all the travels and ‘Reconnect’ is the work exhibited in Dubai as a coming together of what inspired so long ago a physical connection of the exhibition in an Islamic country.
What creative processes went into making this art? I have partially answered this, but I think I am an ‘Orientalist’ at heart, referring to artists that have travelled to the then-termed ‘Orient’ to be seduced by the exoticism and to also view antiquity in these ‘Biblical lands’. I think of Jean Leon Gerome in particular, I have a definite interest in the crafts found in these Islamic countries, such as tiles, carpets, metal and grille work, embroidery, woodcarving and textiles, and have an affinity with these specialists of a great tradition that I absolutely revere and respect. The vistas, of the shimmering mosaics of the ‘Registan and Bibi Khanyum’ in Samarkand, the heaped up piles of Persian carpets in the old souk in Shiraz, the massive columns in Didyma Turkey and the date palms along the Nile are some of the elements that compel me to be creative.
What’s next for you?
04
080-083 Masterpiece - Hendrik.indd 83
I have been lecturing for almost 25 years now at the DUT University of Technology as ceramic lecturer in the fine art department, and will retire at the end of the year. I am always working and currently am working towards an exhibition for next year. I will travel as well, maybe to Morocco or Tunisia, but the great desire is Syria and Iraq.
09/06/2014 16:44
084
Sport
In 2006, Hublot was the first super-high-end, luxury brand to become a major sponsor in the football industry. This year, the Swiss watch maker is the Official Timekeeper and Official Watch of the forthcoming FIFA World Cup, showcasing their flare for melding tradition with forward-thinking design, and expanding their already committed customer base in South America and Brazil.
Hublot loves football 084-087. Sport - Football.indd 84
09/06/2014 16:44
084-087. Sport - Football.indd 85
09/06/2014 16:44
086
Sport
The company’s commitment to quality and cuttingedge design has inspired generations of Hublot customers and led to such endeavours as being the first super-high-end, luxury brand to become a major sponsor in the football industry.
W
e are creative,” says Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. “Innovation is our value. Having a Hublot watch shows that you are different.” Thirty years ago Hublot made waves in the luxury watch world with the first-ever gold watch with a rubber strap. Continuously using new materials such as ceramic and creating a bold, black colour, Hublot has raised the industry bar for design and material innovation. The company’s commitment to quality and cutting-edge design has inspired generations of Hublot customers and led to such endeavours as being the first super-high-end, luxury brand to become a major sponsor in the football industry. With Pelé as its ambassador, this year Hublot is the official timekeeper of the 2014 FIFA World Cup. Mr. Guadalupe discussed, “Hublot has had a strong presence in the Brazilian market for seven years…and is the first luxury watch making brand to establish a boutique in Rio de Janeiro, with a grand opening in 2014.” The company is transforming a Copacabana hotel into the ‘Hublot Palace’ for the week, ‘Hublotizing’ the terrace with luxurious gastronomic experiences and signature Swiss style. The company has also developed a chronograph specifically for the World Cup to calculate time by football standards. Bringing high-end products as well as a commitment to social initiatives, Hublot will be renewing and dedicating a football field in the favelas to give back to the community, in partnership with Pelé. Mr. Guadalupe explained, “The social aspect is important, with our success, we also care for others. We are in the luxury business but we believe in
084-087. Sport - Football.indd 86
giving back, specifically for the children. We are an inspirational brand…if they study and work hard; they 02 should be able to succeed.” To promote the exciting occasion, the brand has invited audiences to discover some of the world’s top football players in a new and unique way. In a series of striking and exceptional portraits, the players are portrayed to show each of their distinctive personalities, as part of the 2014 FIFA World Cup campaign. Pelé, José Mourinho, Turin’s Juventus, Paris Saint-Germain, Bayern Munich, Luiz Felipe Scolari, Falcao, Roy Hodgson, Xherdan Shaqiri, Amsterdam’s Ajax…all of these big names and living legends have chosen Hublot – not only to be ambassadors of the brand throughout the world – but also to work together on a variety of projects, some in aid of charity and others such as the most recent 2014 campaign. The campaign displays a series of portraits of the players, which tell a story by capturing moments of closeness between the ambassador and the Hublot team. Pelé, the King of Football, was photographed on a stair landing in a fashionable Ipanema hotel in Rio, revealing his kindness and attesting to a strength and fitness extraordinary for his age. José Mourinho, also known as The Special One, was photographed surrounded by clocks in a shadowy basement during a visit to the Hublot manufacture in Switzerland, while the Juventus players were beautifully captured in high spirits the day after their match against Fiorentina. The Paris Saint-Germain team are portrayed on the turf at their training centre, as the sun momentarily breaks through the clouds during a rainy afternoon just long enough to capture the photo.
Each image bears Hublot’s symbol for the FIFA World Cup: a football painted and decorated by the renowned artist Romero Britto, a Brazilian painter and sculptor whose work combines elements of Pop Art, Cubism and graffiti. This ball links all those involved in the project with the official watches of the FIFA World Cup, which are presented in cases in the shape of the football decorated by Britto. The offbeat yet respectful pictures were taken by Fred Merz, a Swiss freelance photographer who lives in Geneva. With numerous photographic exhibitions to his name, his portraits and journalistic photos, whose lighting and approach are instantly recognisable, are used by some of the world’s biggest media companies. Renowned and much in demand for his portraiture talents; Fred Merz casts an aesthetically astute eye over the world – a world he illuminates in such a way as to produce almost cinematic compositions featuring exquisitely constructed images. Partnerships with Brazilian personalities extend beyond the sporting sector. This is exemplified by Hublot’s close relationship with the architectural legend Oscar Niemeyer that resulted in three official Hublot clocks for the countdown to the World Cup in Rio de Janeiro, Brasilia, and São Paulo. “Brazilians are mature and sophisticated consumers,” Mr. Guadalupe continued. “We have perfect matching brands for the Latin high-end consumers because we are dynamic, strong, innovative, and creative. This corresponds perfectly to the Brazilian personality.” www.hublot.com
09/06/2014 16:44
01 Saint-Germain of Paris. Image by Fred Merz 02 PelĂŠ of Rio de Janeiro. Image by Fred Merz
084-087. Sport - Football.indd 87
09/06/2014 16:45
088
Special Feature
088-092 KPM Porcelein.indd 88
09/06/2014 16:45
The Royal Porcelain It has been just over 250 years since the Prussian King Frederick the Great established the Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Berlin and by decree made the cobalt-blue sceptre the royal trademark. To this date, Berlin porcelain is being made on the same historical premises of the manufactory in the vicinity of the Berlin Tiergarten. Throughout the years KPM has developed designs which have often been ahead of their time, and continue to produce some of the original dinner services to this day. Durrah also speaks with Executive Vice President Maurice Freiherr von Dalwigk to find out more about the brand’s illustrious history.
F
ounded in September of 1763, Königliche PorzellanManufaktur (KPM) is one of Berlin’s oldest craft businesses. Since the manufactory was first established, groundbreaking designs have been developed perfectly reflecting the aesthetics of each epoch, making KPM Berlin famous throughout Europe. Porcelain lover Frederick the Great skilfully used the highly soughtafter porcelain as diplomatic gifts, bringing the Prussian porcelain company to prosperity through his active personal commitment. After he passed away in 1786 KPM Berlin remained the property of the succeeding kings and emperors, but after the abdication of Emperor William II in 1918 the manufactory became state-owned. Privatisation followed in 2006 and since then the oldest manufacturing enterprise of Berlin has been owned by the sole shareholder, the private banker Mr. Jörg Woltmann. With a rich historical past, the long list of artists,
088-092 KPM Porcelein.indd 89
architects and designers who have worked for the manufactory resembles a who’s who of art history and include Karl Friedrich Schinkel, Johann Gottfried Schadow, Georg Kolbe, Gerhard Marcks and Enzo Mari. The exquisite products were used in royal palaces, in mansions of art collectors and in the stylish homes of political and economic leaders. Berlin porcelain is very much sought-after by porcelain aficionados worldwide who appreciate craftsmanship, timeless design and top quality. Many historical KPM pieces can be found in some of the most important museums; for example items of the URBINO service, which was designed by Trude Petri in 1931 and today are one of KPM’s bestsellers, are part of the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. However, the most beautiful and most extensive exhibition of royal porcelain can be seen in KPM WELT located on the manufactory’s premises
09/06/2014 16:45
090
Special Feature
01 The ‘Prinzessinnengruppe’ – a graceful double sculpture of the Prussian princesses Luise and Friederik, next sculpture of a bull 02 CERES set. The gold decoration on the reliefs is applied freehand with a fine brush. The mat sheen of the polished gold corresponds to the original Schmuz-Baudiss design. 03 Porcelain chess set. Board frame of mahogany, delivered in a lacquered case 04 KURLAND multicoloured breakfast cups and saucers 05 URBINO teapot, vegetable dish with handle, and mug and saucer with a platinum rim
088-092 KPM Porcelein.indd 90
in Berlin where today’s production still takes place. The building and former workshops from 1871 are a rather vivid monument and considered a historically important site of Berlin. Everything from the first step – making the paste, to the last step – painting the porcelain pieces by hand, takes place there. Past and present of porcelain production can be experienced in an exhibition area, and demonstration workshops give insight into the methods of porcelain production. Today the company consists of over 170 employees, and knowledge that has been passed on from one generation of craftsmen to the next is one of the most important ingredients of the production process. For the big 250th anniversary KPM Berlin did what it does best: hand-made porcelain in superior quality. The KURLAND Blanc Nouveau dinner service was introduced, which made the precious material a highlight with a refined play of contrasting surface textures. The dinner ware was made reflective of the manufactory’s origins as KURLAND – which was designed in 1790 – has been one of the manufactory’s most successful classics to date.
02
03
04
05
A special limited collector’s edition was also introduced, consisting of twenty-two items carefully selected with regard to their meaning for KPM Berlin. Each piece shows the craftsmen’s experience and knowledge that has been passed on from generation to generation. In addition to this, KPM also launched KURLAND Royal Noir, showcasing black and gold dominating features on this sophisticated dinner service. The golden relief is distinctively set against the marble-like surface of the black bisque porcelain emphasising the clear-cut outlines of the timeless KURLAND shape. Through the lavish application of the colours and the enhancement of the antique ornament, the straight elegance of the design is dramatically heightened. The Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Berlin remains one of the world’s best when it comes to porcelain fit for royalty, and has established six stores in Germany and is doing business on a national and international level with selected partners. en-de.kpm-berlin.com
09/06/2014 16:45
For the big 250th anniversary KPM Berlin did what it does best: hand-made porcelain in superior quality.
06
Interview with Executive Vice President Maurice Freiherr von Dalwigk What is the brand philosophy for KPM Berlin? The brand KPM Berlin stands for hand-made and hand-painted high-end porcelain since 1763. The philosophy behind the brand has always been to simply meet the most sophisticated demands of KPM’s customers. That is the reason why KPM Berlin is usually mentioned when the subject of customization is addressed.
How has the style of KPM Berlin evolved over the years? The style of KPM Berlin has evolved quite naturally throughout the centuries and their fashions that came and went. But KPM Berlin’s stylistic roots are closely connected to the historic developments of Prussian architecture, arts and culture. Having been located right in the centre of Berlin since the very beginning, the city itself has always been and still is a vibrant source for creative input. From the Rococo period, when KPM was established, through Prussian classicism and the decades of the so-called “New Objectivity”, KPM Berlin always succeeded in bringing influential developments to the market.
What do you think sets KPM Berlin porcelain apart from the rest? Of course one could argue that “a plate is a plate is a plate”... That might be true if one just looks at the narrow aspect of use. But what makes hand-crafted porcelain so unique is the story that is behind each piece. KPM Berlin has many of those
088-092 KPM Porcelein.indd 91
stories to tell. No item is produced without a reason. For example if you look at the URBINO series which was designed in the 1920s but is one of KPM Berlin’s top sellers up-to-date, you will find that that the plates do not have a typical rim but are completely smooth. Concerning European tastes and standards in the early 20th century this was a completely new approach to dinner ware at that time and Trude Petri, who created the series for KPM, was influenced by Asian styles and the German Bauhaus movement. To this day URBINO is copied by other porcelain producers because of its supreme modern shapes – but the original is made by KPM Berlin only. So for example having your breakfast, lunch or dinner on URBINO means that you do not only have your meal, but that you are knowledgeable about the historical and cultural aspects of porcelain making and that you appreciate and enjoy the quality of hand-made porcelain.
What have been the advantages of collaborating with architects, artists and designers? Architects, artists and designers usually see the world with different eyes than craftsmen or sales persons. Their ideas and their creative input always lead to fruitful results for the product range of KPM Berlin: for example the dinner ware series BERLIN which was developed in collaboration with Milan based designer Enzo Mari. An additional advantage of collaborating with different professional groups is that the products of KPM Berlin will find their ways to a new clientele.
07
09/06/2014 16:45
092
Special Feature
The company recently celebrated its 250th year anniversary. What was it like reaching this milestone? 2013 was indeed a year to be proud: KPM Berlin was looking at 250 years of existence. With a history dating back to 1763, KPM Berlin is one of the oldest manufacturing companies in Berlin today. Although the recent past from Second World War onwards to the 1990s was quite turbulent politically and economically, KPM Berlin managed to steer through the waves steadily. During the last years several effective and successful partnerships have been initiated for example with the fashion label Bottega Veneta and the sports car manufacturer Bugatti. We also implemented our online store which has become a steadily growing business factor. The 250th anniversary has been a milestone in the long history of KPM but also a step-stone into the future that lies ahead of us.
How did the company celebrate this anniversary? First of all we launched our anniversary edition – a collection of porcelain items limited to a certain number and each of which stands for a certain period or a certain style of KPM Berlin. We also held a very successful exhibition on the company’s premises. The exhibition aimed at presenting KPM’s craftsmanship at its best through a period of 250 years. We could win over several private collectors – each having concentrated on a special period or on special décors of KPM Berlin – who gladly supplied us with their outstanding exhibits. KPM Berlin also supported retail partners concerning special sales activities throughout the year. 2013 was a very successful year for KPM Berlin.
How would you describe the typical customer of KPM Berlin? We do have a wide spectrum of customers. All are individuals with different professions, different tastes and different requirements. What unifies our customers is their delight for hand-made porcelain and their esteem for high quality.
06 SCHINKELKORB Vase 07 TROMPETENFORM Vase 08 KEKSDOSE white gift box and red bowl with lid and gold painted rim
Can you tell us about the latest collections? One of our recent lines is based on one of our most traditional shapes: KURLAND. This series originally was designed in the late 1790s. Since then it has been in our product range and still is one of our top sellers. With this dinner ware series we did something, we never did before: we decided to leave the rim, which is accentuated by an intricate relief, unglazed. The result is more than stunning. The relief has a lot more depth showing all the meticulous details of this classic shape which is now named “Blanc Nouveau”. We have been receiving a lot of compliments for Blanc Nouveau and our sales numbers are proof for the overwhelming acceptance of this new KURLAND version.
What does the future hold for KPM Berlin? I wish I could foretell the future in general, but the near future looks bright. We are actively working on new international business partnerships, we are developing new and exclusive collections for some of our trusted retail partners, we will open an interesting exhibition soon focusing on a design project KPM Berlin did with the famous Italian designer Enzo Mari, and we will have an open-doors-day in summer.
08
088-092 KPM Porcelein.indd 92
09/06/2014 16:45
LIFT REMODELLING EYE CREAM Watch those dark triangles melt away
LIFT REMODELLING EYE CREAM restores firmness and radiance around the eye. Dark triangles from the inner eye to the cheek are a visible sign of ageing in the skin, caused by reduced blood circulation and hollowness around the eyes. Complete with an ergonomic massager, LIFT REMODELLING EYE CREAM helps brighten the skin, while Micro-Mesh Uplifter technology reduces hollowness for a plump, volumised appearance. Lead a life of beauty. With SENSAI. www.sensai-cosmetics.com
093-093 Sensai.indd 93 AC895_LiftReModEyeCream_Durrah280x300.indd 1
09/06/2014 16:46 25/04/14 09:46
094
Special Feature
The word ‘abanico’, which means ‘fan’ in Spanish, comes from the Latin ‘vanus’, an instrument originally used to winnow grain and stoke fire. Later the ‘abanico’ was used as a means of cooling down, although came to represent much more and was considered an object of high social standard. The history of the fan dates back over centuries, and has been illustrated through a number of beautiful hand fans on display at two fine museums in Madrid – the recently renovated National Archaeological Museum and the Cerralbo Museum. Durrah takes a look back to discover its progression over the years.
Beauty Unfolding 094-097. Special Feature - Fans.indd 94
09/06/2014 16:46
A
Chinese legend claims that the invention of the fan took place at the ‘Feast of Lanterns’, where Kan-Si, the daughter of a powerful mandarin, was so overpowered by the heat that contrary to all etiquette was compelled to take off her mask. In order to uphold standards of modesty and decency, she waved her mask very close to her face to cool herself down, and so male guests could not recognise her. Her gesture was then imitated by the rest of the ladies attending the feast. Hand fans have existed in all major civilizations since antiquity and became a ceremonial object symbolising power and social status. Egyptians, Sumerians, Assyrians, Persians, Chinese and Japanese all created these objects using different materials. The first known hand fan was the so-called fixed fan, consisting of a handle of variable length, usually made of wood, ivory or horn, to which palm fronds, leather, feathers or silk were secured. Artworks also reveal the presence of fans in the Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic and Christian world throughout the Middle Ages. Egyptian paintings and reliefs reveal the existence of two types of fans. One type was made with vertically mounted, curled ostrich feathers, with the reinforced and embellished quill used
094-097. Special Feature - Fans.indd 95
as the handle. This type of fan was used by princes, princesses, dignitaries or court officials. The other type called flabellum, were semi-circular fans in which decorative elements, such as colourful feathers, were radially fixed to a metal or wooden frame. These fans had long handles that greatly exceeded the height of the fan-bearers, who were courtiers that accompanied and fanned the Pharaoh. The flabellum was represented by the hieroglyph for shade. The Greeks used smaller flabella, which are displayed on Greek vases and Tanagra figurines as palm-shaped fans with radial ribs secured to a small handle. The slaves who fanned Roman matrons and senior members of society were known as flabellifer. The oldest known Chinese fans date back to the 2nd century BC. Many rigid or screen fans were made of feathers or painted or embroidered silk, and ceremonial fans with long handles were used in processions and high-level events. They were originally made of pheasant and peacock feathers and decorated with figures, flowers and painted scenes. The folding fan has its origin in Japan (9th century BC). Legend has it that it was created by a humble fan
maker after being inspired by the movement of a bat’s wings. The folding fan was introduced to China in the following century, but did not gain widespread popularity in the Imperial court until the 15th century. The folding fan has a skeleton or ribbing that consists of a variable number of sticks (usually multiples of two) and two guard-sticks that protect the fan when it is closed. The sticks, made from different materials including ivory, bone, motherof-pearl, wood, and tortoiseshell, were fret-worked, engraved, inlaid, polychromed, gilded, and so on. The leaf, located above the ribbing, is the semi-circular or ringshaped portion of the fan that unfolds. A fan that opens more than 180 degrees is called a ‘wide spanning’ fan. The leaf, made from leather, paper, silk, or other materials was decorated with paintings, prints, and embroideries. The upper classes usually purchased a fan with a blank leaf that would be later embellished by a reputed painter. Brisé fans, without a fan leaf, are composed entirely of sticks joined by a narrow leather or silk ribbon at the top edge. They were usually made from ivory, tortoiseshell, metal, bone, wood, and could be lacquered, engraved, carved, fret-worked or painted. Its origin appears to have been the Japanese fan hiogi,
09/06/2014 16:46
096
Special Feature
used in the Japanese Imperial court since the eleventh century, and known in the West as brisé fan. The scene on a puzzle fan varied depending on whether the fan was opened from left to right or right to left. The scissor fan opens into a complete circle. As for Spanish fans, the folding fan was introduced in Europe by Spain and Portugal’s trade with East Asia, in particular through its enclaves in the Philippines, Macao and the port of Canton. The sticks on these were made of sandalwood, tortoiseshell, ivory (sometimes dyed), or mother-of-pearl, and the leaf was painted paper or silk. The more lavish fans were inlaid with gold and silver filigree, cloisonné, or semiprecious stones and embellished with natural Argos pheasant feathers, or goose feathers painted in gouache. The Mandarin or ‘hundred faces’ fan has a leaf made of bright colours with figures painted in gouache, whose faces and hands were painted ivory inlays and garments were made from silk. They were decorated with scenes inspired in the West, everyday life in China, or a combination of both. There are many similarities between these fans and the painted decoration on contemporary Chinese porcelain. The fans
094-097. Special Feature - Fans.indd 96
were kept in exquisite cardboard boxes lined with fabric, or silk-lined lacquered boxes with gilded decoration. The fan was an essential fashion accessory in the court. This is illustrated by the numerous portraits of European princesses and queens. In sixteenthcentury Europe, fans were considered a luxury item, a symbol of high social status. In Portugal, rich fabrics and ostrich or exotic bird feathers were used to make fans. Fans made from ostrich or peacock feathers were considered symbols of high social status, reserved exclusively for royalty. The Spanish queens and princesses followed the trend set in Portugal, adopting the fan as an essential fashion accessory. Its use became widespread in Europe during the seventeenth century. There is documentary evidence of the appointment of ‘abaniqueras’ (fan-keepers) who were responsible for safeguarding the Royal Family’s fans. The eighteenth century is considered the Golden Age of the fan, when the estate of Isabel de Farnese included more than 1600 fans. Fans in the Bourbon Court were made from taffeta, voile with silver, ivory or filigree sticks. The leaves were decorated with
01 Hand fan with romantic scenes in vignettes against black background 02 Reverse side of previous hand fan 03 Hand fan with chivalry scene, golden guardsticks 04 Reverse side of previous hand fan
09/06/2014 16:47
scenes from Greek and Roman mythology, chivalry (many were inspired by the paintings of Watteau, Boucher, or Fragonard), rural festivals, pastoral idylls, chinoiserie, and trompe l’oeil. The scenes, often dated and signed, are a motley collection of drawings, paintings, cards, musical instruments, jewellery and lace. Some sticks have grillé (delicate grill-shaped fretwork) and decoupage work (leaves or sticks with cut-outs made with pins and knives, imitating the paper cut-out method used in China and Japan. The cut-outs were inlaid with gold and silver using the so-called ‘piqué’ technique). Leather, paper or silk leaves were painted in gouache, and sometimes even metallic paper was used. Particularly remarkable are the wedding fans. The bride of a member of the Royal family or aristocracy was given a fan, an essential accessory of the bridal attire. The fan was white and made from rich materials (ivory, bone and mother-of-pearl for the sticks, and white lace for the leaf, which could also be inlaid with gold, silver, enamels, and so on). Furthermore, the leaf often included the portraits or intertwined initials the bride and groom, or were decorated with romantic,
094-097. Special Feature - Fans.indd 97
mythological, biblical or historical scenes alluding to marriage, bouquets of roses, flower garlands or hearts. For the wedding of the Prince of Asturias (future Charles IV) and Maria Luisa of Parma, a special fan was made in which the party held before the wedding was depicted on the front leaf, and the beginning of the journey of the Princess from Genoa to Spain appeared on the back. Fans can also be used to form a wide range of unspoken signs as a discrete means of communication. There were several languages of the fan, although all seemed to use a common rule: the positioning of the fan in one of four different directions and five positions within each direction, i.e. the alphabet of the fan. Furthermore, the motions made with the fan allowed women to send cryptic messages that the receiver had to decipher and the ability to master the language of the fan was a mark of distinction. With a diverse history stretching back over centuries, few art forms combine functional, ceremonial and decorative uses as elegantly as the fan. en.museocerralbo.mcu.es
09/06/2014 16:47
098
Food
Good Taste
After 18 months of renewal and refurbishment, the all new Grande Épicerie is ready to become the unmissable landmark for food aficionados from Paris, France and all around the world. Entirely redesigned, the delicatessen blends culture, fashion and fine food like no other, as design, photography and literature adopt a culinary feel. Fashionistas become foodistas, the must-haves are cream puffs, and the collections are new flavours of macaroons. More than ever before, good taste goes hand in hand with good food.
R
evealing to the world its new look, La Grande Épicerie has adhered to the ambition of creating a dream marketplace that offers a truly unique experience. The space is lively, bursting with brilliantly presented products and surrounded by specialist workshops. It has a Parisian feel unlike any other, and is a place visitors can browse peacefully with an open mind. Patrice Wagner, President of Le Bon Marché and La Grande Épicerie said, “Today’s brand new Grande Épicerie de Paris is Europe’s most ambitious fine-foods concept. We wanted to offer our clients a totally unique gourmet experience. The know-how and skills of our architects, our craftsmen and the artists we selected to join us for the adventure means this is now a reality”. The market has many appealing aspects and promotes various areas of expertise under one roof. The ground floor brings together a new typically French
098-102 Food Grand Epicerie.indd 98
Marketplace – the Place du Marché – which is surrounded by a Bakery, Cold Meats/Rotisserie, Butcher, Cheese Shop/Dairy, Fishmonger, and Pastry and Chocolate Shop. The first floor boasts the ‘Table de la Grande Épicerie’ restaurant led by Master Chef Jean-Jacques Massé, which is seemingly suspended between two levels. Guests get a glimpse of the hustle and bustle of the busy kitchen, before entering the restaurant via the suspended walkways and tasting the succulent seasonal dishes of French cuisine at its very best. Around the Place du Marché is a monumental 20m2 handcrafted glass mosaic, which pays tribute to each of La Grande Épicerie’s departments and the culinary specialities on offer. The mosaic is made from stoneware and gold tessere works of intertwined circles, by the contemporary French mosaic artist Mathilde Jonquière. In the centre of the store, an immense naturally lit
09/06/2014 16:47
098-102 Food Grand Epicerie.indd 99
09/06/2014 16:47
100
Food
area has been designed and built according to 19th century tradition by DYArchitectes agency and Le Bon Marché architecture department under the spectacular glazed dome. The architecture was inspired by Le Bon Marché’s history codes and based on drawings and photographs from 1923, but adapted with a modern approach. The materials used for the food stores have been reworked for the occasion, with veined granite on the floor, a marble mosaic at ground level and blackened steel in dotted lines. The heart of La Grande Épicerie de Paris however, is below ground. In the basement is 1,500 square meters of bakery, delicatessen and pastry expertise; a Meilleur Ouvrier de France expert leads 62 craftsmen, 12 apprentices and “compagnons du devoir” skilled professionals. Fresh baguettes are baked in the early hours of the morning and continuously throughout the day; delicatessen dishes from the four corners of the globe are composed on a daily basis; entire collections of macaroons are prepared by the batch every day. In the Rue de Sèvres and Rue du Bac, passers-by can stop and admire their sharply honed skills: the chocolate-maker moulding personalised bars, the confectioner putting the finishing touches to his creations, the baker loading his ovens with over 60 different types of bread. The craftsmen also have centre stage behind their slightly raised counter as if in a theatre, poised in front of the public with their tools of the trade, the exceptional produce and preparation area as a backdrop. Jean-Jacques Massé, Meilleur Ouvrier de France Fine Food Director states, “Our ambition is to serve a cuisine that reflects La Grande Epicerie de Paris. These are its seasonal products brought bang up to date, but with respect for French culinary traditions and deliciously presented both in terms of service and on the plate”. La Grande Épicerie is proving to be France’s most outstanding Gourmet Marketplace, and truly a place for the exceptional.
Browse the quality selection of stores at La Grande Épicerie: The Grocery Store – L’Épicerie Taste condiments from all over the world, including olive oils, vinegars, mustards, salts, and more, while a dedicated delivery tricycle livens up the space. Laurent Trégaro, Delicatessen Sales Manager: “There was a twofold aim expressed; to enrich our section in terms of both quality and quantity for the product ranges popular with our customers, in line with well-established trends; and to showcase these collections more effectively through a spectacular display, advice, tastings.”
03
The Marketplace – La Place du Marché Select exceptional fruit and vegetables, whose daily supply prioritises short supply chains and French producers, from the large central marble table, the market van and canopy installation. Arnaud Duret, Counter Sales Manager: “At the heart of La Grande Épicerie de Paris, through a high-end offering combining self-service and sales assistance, seasonal and non-seasonal produce, the Marketplace whets your appetite. It affirms our know-how in terms of knowledge, selection, quality control and the attractive presentation of the fruits and vegetables.” The Butchers – La Boucherie Hear the slice dryly hit the chopping block after cleanly cutting a prime beef rib aged for 6 weeks in the ageing display case at the back of the workshop. Pascal Lafaye, Head Butcher: “Finally, our customers can see with their own eyes how intense our job is! From the delivery of the meat in carcasses, to boning and paring, to putting it to age to enhance the tenderness and flavour.”
02
02
098-102 Food Grand Epicerie.indd 100
09/06/2014 16:47
01 Teas & Coffees selection in The Cellar 02 Meat being prepared at The Butchers – La Boucherie 03 Display of fresh fish at The Fishmongers – La Poissonnerie 04 Escalators spanning the many levels
The Fishmongers – La Poissonnerie See the fishmonger come to advise the customer facing his broad stalls, displaying a rich variety of the day’s catches from small boats and an oyster bar that is set up every day. Choose from beautifully presented displays of an unparalleled selection of fish and seafood preserves. The Rotisserie – La Rôtisserie Smell the poultry skin caramelising in the traditional rotisserie, and the emanating aromas from a vegetable casserole, as they cook in the cast iron ovens in a custom-designed kitchen. The Cheesemonger – La Fromagerie Fall for an individual cut of goat’s cheese, perfectly matured in the neighbouring cellar and shown in perfection on a professional counter, which has been reworked like a goldsmith display. The Pastry – La Pâtisserie Savour the freshness of a just-decorated strawberry tart or choux pastry that has been filled that very minute or order a millefeuille – assembled on request. Loïc Cabrero, Head Pastry Chef: “We wanted to show the most attractive aspects of the pastry chef’s work; assembling the pastries and creating future collections. Today, a real creative laboratory is on display for all to see, an added motivation for me and an added value for our customers.” The Chocolate Shop – La Chocolaterie Witness a bar of chocolate custom-made in front of your eyes, from three varieties of chocolate and twenty toppings, in other words 1,200 possible combinations! The Bakery – La Boulangerie Order a still-warm baguette from a counter crafted
04
098-102 Food Grand Epicerie.indd 101
09/06/2014 16:47
102
Fashion
The architecture was inspired by Le Bon Marché’s history codes and based on drawings and photographs from 1923, but adapted with a modern approach.
05 An array of fresh fruit and vegetables on offer 06 Part of the Mosaique du Luxe (luxury mosaic) made by Mathilde Jonquière
06
05
from three oak trunks, after watching the baker shape it, leave it to rise, mark it, put it into and take it out of the oven. Nicolas Queruel, Head Baker Chef: “The aim was to optimise our production even more to improve our responsiveness and service. Through the opening of an additional laboratory in the store, we are able to bake bread more than five times a day if need be, and offer a range of incredibly fresh bakery desserts.” Teas & Coffees – Les Thés & Cafés Enjoy the intimacy of the setting and pull open the 96 drawers of the central unit, each of which holds a tea or infusion variety. Breathe in the aroma of coffees in silos… before tasting them. Christelle Vandaele, Teas & Coffees, Spices & Olives, and Chocolates & Confectionery Manager: “New varieties of teas and organic coffees are roasting at the customer’s request. In order to create a strong and coherent atmosphere we had to expand our range and offer our customers more guidance, relying on improved training on giving advice for our sales teams and a heightened service offering.” The Services – Les Services Place an order with the caterer, enjoy take out via the delivery service, treat yourself to a ‘valet’ to fill your cart, create custom-made gift hampers, have your presents gift-wrapped in a box bearing the shop’s image…leaving the La Grande Épicerie de Paris brings the same pleasure as entering it. www.lagrandeepicerie.com
098-102 Food Grand Epicerie.indd 102
09/06/2014 16:47
Thinking ahead. From the back seat. The New Flying Spur. Flying Spur W12 fuel consumption in mpg (l/100 km): Urban 12.6 (22.4); Extra Urban 27.8 (10.2); Combined 19.2 (14.7). CO2 Emissions 343 g/km.
000-000 Bentley_FPA_FA.indd 1 103-103 Bentley.indd 1
2/26/14 6:38 PM 09/06/2014 16:48
104
Architecture
Summer season is here, and with it comes the need to update wardrobes accordingly. Adding a further touch of stylishness and sophistication to your shopping experience, these boutiques are the picture of grace and elegance, and a true experience to behold.
Ambience Amplified 104-113. Shops.indd 104
09/06/2014 16:49
Etoile ‘La boutique’, Dubai Conceptualised, founded and established in 2005, the ground-breaking multi-brand concept Etoile ‘La boutique’ has become the destination of choice for the fashion savvy. The illustrious designer Jacques Garcia was commissioned to create the exclusive and inspiring universe dedicated to cutting-edge fashion, luxury and fine art. It is a sphere where women can feel pampered in every sense of the word, where original fashion merges with extraordinary art under the same roof, and two vibrant cultures blend in a unique style. The exceptionally beautiful interior has been fashioned in a baroque fusion style where French Art de Vivre and Baroque Orientalism blend to create an exclusive ambiance. The floor is lavishly covered in a custom-made carpet from Brintons UK while the gilded walls are adorned with more than 350 gold leaves.
104-113. Shops.indd 105
09/06/2014 16:49
106
Architecture 01 Ruby red custom carpets and gold leaf covered walls 02 Providing the latest designer offerings 03 The perfect environment to peruse fashion 04 Created by Jacques Garcia
02
The exceptionally beautiful interior has been fashioned in a baroque fusion style where French Art de Vivre and Baroque Orientalism blend to create an exclusive ambiance.
03
The boutique offers the perfect environment to peruse and experiment with the latest trends, discover new labels as well as enjoy the world’s top designers. From the must-have shoe to the lusthave bag and that hot-off-the-catwalk dress, all the essentials are ready to be snapped up. Etoile ‘La boutique’ has received several awards since its launch including the RetailME Award for ‘Store Design of the Year’ in 2006, Retail City’s ‘Franchise Operator of the Year’ in 2008 and Gulf Connoisseur award for ‘Best Fashion Boutique’. This trendsetting yet eminently sophisticated store is a showcase for fashion and for art. www.etoilegroup.com
104-113. Shops.indd 106
09/06/2014 16:49
04
104-113. Shops.indd 107
09/06/2014 16:49
108
Architecture
05 The façade offers a complete view of the products 06 Signature elegant Ferragamo aesthetic 07 First Kuwait store to offer Ferragamo Jewels
Salvatore Ferragamo, Kuwait Salvatore Ferragamo, one of the world’s most renowned luxury brands, recently opened a boutique in Kuwait City, situated in the prestigious Al Hamra Tower. Strategically located at the gates to the city’s commercial centre, the tower is an icon of Kuwait City’s commercial business district. The boutique offers all Salvatore Ferragamo product lines including ready-to-wear, leather accessories, eyewear, watches, perfumes and, for the first time in Kuwait, Ferragamo Jewels. The jewellery line was launched in late 2011 in Europe, and Kuwait City is third the location to sell Ferragamo Jewels in the Middle East, where the brand boasts a total of 12 stores. The store’s interior – spanning a total surface area of roughly 230 square metres - is elegant and luxurious, in line with Ferragamo’s signature style, and exudes a refined ambience with special touches. The boutique entrance affords guests a complete view of the Salvatore Ferragamo range and opens up to a space devoted to bags. Next, the shoe and women’s ready-to-wear collections follow, featuring ivory raffia upholstery. The final room, which displays the men’s collections, is more masculine with its walnut panelling and cream-coloured Vendome stone floors throughout. At the opening soirée, a master goldsmith from Italy will demonstrated a few processes in the crafting of these precious jewels. In addition to engraving numbers on the jewellery purchased by guests, the goldsmith created specially made-to-order pieces from the Galuchat line, offering a selection of a wide array of ray-skin colours and varieties of precious stones.
05 06
www.ferragamo.com
104-113. Shops.indd 108
09/06/2014 16:49
The boutique offers all Salvatore Ferragamo product lines including readyto-wear, leather accessories, eyewear, watches, perfumes and, for the first time in Kuwait, Ferragamo Jewels.
07
104-113. Shops.indd 109
09/06/2014 16:49
09
110
Architecture 08 The first Bahrain standalone Vans store 09 Products for the action sport market
08
104-113. Shops.indd 110
09/06/2014 16:49
Vans, Manama Vans, the original action sports footwear and apparel brand, has launched its first store in Bahrain and second in the Middle East at Bahrain City Centre Mall. The store unveiled two of Van’s latest footwear collaborations with legendary British Rock band, the Beatles and Della, a socially responsible fashion company. The first of its kind partnership with the Beatles taps into the brand’s Off the Wall spirit, with the collection featuring unique artwork from the legendary Yellow Submarine album cover. This exciting new range also highlights the group’s global influence on music, art and pop culture. The second collaboration was Vans’ partnership with Della, a socially responsible fashion company. This unique collection has been created to heighten awareness of Della’s dedication to empowering women in the Volta Region of Ghana, West Africa. The Vans x
104-113. Shops.indd 111
Della collection feature six individual footwear designs for both men and women with an exclusive accessory offering to match. Launched in partnership with Sun and Sand Sports, the standalone Vans store highlights the strength of the country’s rapidly expanding action sports market. Founded in 1966, Vans has risen to become a worldwide dominant force in the action sports industry, retailing a complete range of footwear, apparel, accessories and pro-tec protective equipment. Owned and operated by Sun & Sand Sports, part of Gulf Marketing Group, the store will form part of a Middle East wide portfolio of more than 120 stores including the Sun and Sand Sports, Nike, Adidas, Colombia and North Face brands. www.vans.com
09/06/2014 16:49
112
Architecture
14 10
Piaget, Jeddah Jeddah’s first Piaget boutique has opened in the heart of the city, following the brand’s new architectural design created by Christine Querlioz. In partnership with Ali Bin Ali, the renowned watch making brand’s exquisite new store is located in Jameel Square on Al Tahliyah Street. While Piaget’s boutiques have always echoed the brand’s blend of grace and sophistication, this one goes a step further as it follows in the footsteps of London, Zurich, and Dubai, among others, to open with Piaget’s latest C3G architectural concept. Spanning 150 square metres, the store conveys a discreet elegance that is sensed rather than seen, paying tribute to the rich Swiss identity and legacy of the brand. Illuminating the assorted facets of Piaget, contrasting materials in gloss and matte have been accented with theatrical lighting on exceptional pieces. Dressed in black and gold, with subtle touches of opulence inspired by the Viennese Secession period, the new architectural concept intensifies a feeling of preciousness and of the meticulous care lavished on the creation of each piece. True to Piaget’s spirit of openness and hospitality, the boutique invites visitors to look through its great bay windows and to push open the door in order to discover the manufacture’s treasures. On the floor, a path made of black stones is framed by natural parquet and a soft, warm light leads to an iconic piece of furniture featuring a pearly lacquered puzzle-work motif, where the most exceptional pieces are presented. The harmonious combination of lightness and clarity in the store highlights the alliance and distinctive nature of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie, two skills that Piaget has acquired and mastered. en.piaget.com
104-113. Shops.indd 112
09/06/2014 16:49
10 Displaying Piaget’s discreet elegance 11 Comfort while shopping 12 Architectural design created by Christine Querlioz
11 12
104-113. Shops.indd 113
09/06/2014 16:49
114
Travel
114-117 Travel - Sao Paolo.indd 114
09/06/2014 16:50
The financial and business hub of Brazil, not only is São Paulo the biggest city in the country, it also ranks as the very birthplace of Brazilian football. This summer Durrah takes you to the city that will host the Opening Match of the FIFA World Cup 2014. For almost 500 years, this Brazilian city has been growing and developing into a cultural hub with a wide array of experiences to be had and attractions to explore.
Summer in Sampa 114-117 Travel - Sao Paolo.indd 115
S
ão Paulo is home to nearly 20 million people, booming not only as an economic centre but also as a hotspot for fashion, gastronomy and great hotels. Known as Sampa, São Paulo will be even more bustling during the FIFA World Cup, which it will be a host city of this year. Located in the south-eastern region of the country, close to the wilderness of the Costa Verde’s Atlantic rainforest, the city is also nicknamed Terra da Garoa (Land of the Drizzle) after its renowned weather instability and plentiful rainfall. São Paulo’s work-oriented vocation attracted huge contingents of immigrants after the turn of the 19th century. As a consequence, the city is home to hundreds of different ethnic groups that influence the culture, the dining options and the overall unique feel. It is by far the most ethnically diverse city in Brazil, with the largest community of Japanese descendants outside Japan, the largest population of Italian descendants outside Italy and a significant Arab community fuelled mostly by Lebanese and Syrian immigration.
09/06/2014 16:50
116
Travel 01 The Octavio Frias de Oliveira bridge over the Pinheiros River 02 Crossing the bridge in Park Ibirapuera 03 Metropolitan Cathedral 04 The informal urbanization of neighbourhood Cabucun 05 The Brazilian flag
São Paulo’s work-oriented vocation attracted huge contingents of immigrants after the turn of the 19th century.
02 03
It is no wonder then, that the metropolitan area of São Paulo is the home for the two busiest airports in South America: Congonhas and the international Andre Franco Montoro Airport – commonly known as Guarulhos Airport or Cumbica – which flies to 28 different countries. Although it is an inevitable business destination, it is not all about work for the ‘paulistanos’. São Paulo is a high-profile cultural centre that displays a wide range of options, from various high profile concerts and exhibitions to a colossal gastronomy scene. The city has more than 12,000 restaurants covering 52 types of cuisine, as well as 150 first-rate museums and cultural centres. Sampa is also bursting with tourist attractions that go way beyond its staggering skyline, such as the Japanese district of Liberdade, the Ibirapuera Park, the several popular shopping malls and a charming city centre. It’s relentless, round-the-clock pulse – a close cousin of London’s or New York’s – proves it is one of the world’s great cities. Along with Rio, São Paulo is one of the football powerhouses of Brazil, dominating the top Series A league and the national cup championships. The city was first introduced to the sport by Charles Miller, the British descendent who presented football to the city in 1894 when he made São Paulo his home. Three of Brazil’s most powerful clubs are from São Paulo: oldtime rivals Corinthians, Palmeiras and São Paulo, who combine for an impressive 14 Campeonato Brasileiro titles. Both Corinthians and São Paulo have lifted the FIFA Club World Club trophy, in 2000 and 2005
114-117 Travel - Sao Paolo.indd 116
respectively. Other traditional clubs like Portuguesa de Desportos and Juventus complete the football-mad panorama of the metropolis. São Paulo’s home ground, the Morumbi, is the city’s biggest stadium and was one of the venues of the maiden FIFA Club World Club in 2000, while the city-owned Pacaembu, which also houses a phenomenal Football Museum, hosted six matches at the 1950 FIFA World Cup Brazil. Palmeiras own its home ground, the Palestra Italia. Outside the stadium, visitors could easily spend a few weeks in Brazil’s cultural capital São Paulo and not run out of things to do. A good place to start is the Museu de Arte de São, which contains the largest collection of Western art in Latin America including works by Goya, Picasso and El Greco. The Art Deco Mercado Municipal is São Paulo’s biggest produce market, where food stalls dole out local favourites like pasteis (savoury meat and cheese-filled pasties). Browse here for delicious mangos, papayas and passion fruits, as well as unusual foods such as the tangy jabuticaba, a grape-like fruit. For a view over the skyscraper-studded metropolis, head to highest floor of the Edificio Italia, the tallest building in the city centre (at a modest 46 stories) and linger at the onsite restaurant Terraço Italia while enjoying the panorama. The city is also home to an array of high end cuisine and internationally recognized restaurants, such as D.O.M, which was (in 2012) elected the 4th best restaurant in the World and the best in South America
09/06/2014 16:51
04 05
by ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’. Another typical type of restaurant in São Paulo, are the world famous churrascarias, where an enormous range of all-youcan-eat meats and cuts arrive at your table by the stick, offering also a range of sides and salads. The extensive district of Jardins is a shoppers’ paradise of elegant bakeries, high-end design stores and cutting-edge fashion labels. This is the perfect place to visit for those who love glamour and relaxed afternoon strolls. Leafy streets like Rua Oscar Freire are lined with vibrant flagship boutiques and flash restaurants. Architectural landmark São Paulo hotels like the retro-chic Fasano and the golden glass Emiliano add to the area’s allure. The glitzy suburb of Brooklin is where to stay in São Paulo for film-star hospitality and endless pampering. The area is home to gleaming skyscrapers, the world’s biggest multinationals, and luxury hotels and shopping malls packed with haute couture fashion houses. Ten minutes away by taxi exclusive nightlife awaits in Itaim Bibi district. A beehive of activity that offers an intense cultural experience, São Paulo is probably one of the most underrated cities tourism-wise, often overshadowed by other places in the Brazilian sun and beach circuit such as Rio de Janeiro and Salvador. It is in fact a great city to explore, with its own idiosyncrasies and the exquisite way of living of its inhabitants – the city is a sea of possibilities. www.sao-paulo.com
114-117 Travel - Sao Paolo.indd 117
09/06/2014 16:51
118
Travel
New heights of luxury The world’s most luxurious living space in the air has been unveiled by Etihad Airways, the national airline of the United Arab Emirates. Known as ‘The Residence’, the lavish and completely new forward upper-deck cabin will be offered exclusively onboard the airline’s A380 aircraft.
I
n a ground-breaking world first for commercial airlines, Etihad Airways has taken luxury to a new level with the private multi-room cabin known as The Residence. Featuring a living room, double bedroom, separate ensuite and shower room, the cabin will also offer a dedicated, trained Butler – another first for the airline industry. The Residence measures an unparalleled 125 square feet in total area, and is located on the forward upper deck of the airline’s new fleet of Airbus A380s. The room will be available for single or double occupancy. Peter Baumgartner, Etihad Airways’ Chief Commercial Officer said, “The Residence will set Etihad Airways apart from the rest of the industry and allow us to provide the complete range of world-class products and services to cater for the individual tastes of every VIP traveller. This is the culmination of five years of intensive effort and research into how Etihad Airways can provide an unparalleled VIP experience. Without a doubt, we are ushering in a new era of luxury travel in commercial aviation.”
118-120 Travel - Etihad.indd 118
09/06/2014 16:51
118-120 Travel - Etihad.indd 119
09/06/2014 16:52
120
Travel
With a dedicated Butler on call throughout the flight, guests will experience the type of discrete personal service and attention to detail found in the world’s most exclusive hotels. The Butler’s role is multi-faceted and includes that of a Concierge and Maitre d’hôtel. Their uniform was designed by Rome-based fashion designer, Ettore Bilotta, to reflect the superior levels of professionalism and style associated with the unique role. A dedicated VIP Concierge team will ensure all aspects of the experience including booking luxury limousine transfers, check-in, and custom menu planning, are handled with the utmost discretion. These onboard hospitality professionals were carefully selected by Etihad Airways, and underwent specialist training at the Savoy Butler Academy in London, part of the world-famous Savoy Hotel. The interiors of The Residence ensure the most comfortable experience possible for all travelling guests. The living room area is furnished with a two-seat reclining sofa upholstered in Poltrona Frau leather, dual marquetry dining tables and a chilled mini-bar. A touch screen control unit operates the retractable ottoman, the ambient mood lighting, window shading, adjustable seat positioning and firmness, and activates the in-seat massage functions. A door and passageway separate the living room from the master bedroom and the ensuite shower room. The bedroom features a Poltrona Frau upholstered 82 inch long double bed with custom-
02 The bed with custom-made mattress, bedside unit, wardrobe, and under-bed stowage 03 The Residence Lounge area with a two-seat reclining sofa in Poltrona Frau leather
www.etihad.com
02
118-120 Travel - Etihad.indd 120
01 The private lobby area, with couches and a table
made mattress, bedside unit, wardrobe, and under-bed stowage for hand luggage. Quality entertainment can be enjoyed on a large 32 inch LCD TV in the living room, whilst the bedroom boasts its own 27 inch LCD TV. The Residence is also fully Wi-Fi enabled and equipped with the latest Panasonic eX3 entertainment system, controlled by video touch screen and handset. The communications suite features broadband with internet mobile and data capability, Live TV, HDMI, AC outlet and USB ports. In keeping with the cabin interiors in the rest of the aircraft, The Residence is decorated in a contemporary style influenced by modern Arabian design. However unique décor elements such as custom carpets, table marquetry and soft furnishings, create individuality and exclusivity, setting it apart from the rest. The Residence on each Etihad Airways A380 aircraft features a unique design inspired by best-in-class boutique hospitality. Certified by the European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) for dual occupancy, The Residence has been built by B/E Aerospace in the United Kingdom in close partnership with the Etihad Design Consortium (EDC) and Poltrona Frau. Setting the standards for luxury in the air, the new Etihad Airways The Residence makes your travel experience not only comfortable, but enjoyable, and is an experience to be savoured.
03
09/06/2014 16:52
121-121 Bint al Shaikh.indd 1
09/06/2014 16:52
122
Travel and Leisure
Escape the heat this summer and spend time in one these lavishly equipped hotel getaways. With stimulating spa experiences, delicious dining offers and activities against a backdrop of some of the world’s most breathtaking views, these hotels prove that luxury knows no bounds. This month we travel throughout Europe and Dubai to present you with a variety of holiday destinations that you will never want to leave.
Sweet Escape 122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 122
09/06/2014 16:53
Chalet N, Oberlech Chalet N in glamorous Oberlech, Austria is an exclusive luxury chalet set in a breathtaking landscape in the heart of the Alps. With eight royal suites, a lavishly equipped spa and wellness area, a private cinema and a team of over 20 staff, this impressive chalet enchants guests with charming alpine architecture & design, inimitable comfort, extraordinarily culinary delights, and pampering with personalized services. During summer the senses are filled by the fragrance of fresh greenery and blooming meadows and the views of the mountain panorama, far away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Throughout the colder months an Eldorado for skiers with guaranteed snow begins at the very door of Chalet N, and a number of breathtaking descents leave no wish unanswered. The beauty which results from the right mix of high-class interior design and traditional alpine style becomes clear to guests the moment they enter their own personal refuge. The generous suites in Chalet N combine the special materials of the region with state-of-the-art fixtures and technology and this combination, together with the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 123
09/06/2014 16:53
124
Travel and Leisure 01 Living room of one of the exclusive suites 02 A fire keeps guests warm in the living room during winter months 03 Chalet dining area 04 One of the alpine themed bedrooms 05 The spa and wellness centre 06 A well-equipped and spacious bathroom
03 02
02
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 124
09/06/2014 16:53
04
05
06
The quickest escape from the rigours of daily life is offered by Chalet N’s generous spa and wellness area. Here, one can cast off stress with various spa treatments, or enjoy time in the hay sauna, Finnish sauna or salt-cave steam bath, followed by a perfect doze in one of the comfortable quiet rooms. The team of chefs at Chalet N use all their culinary skills to spoil you in the restaurant and freshly prepare menus tailor-created to suit individual tastes, whether it be international delicacies or local traditional dishes. The WalserStuĚˆberl caters for fondue fans and specialties from the grill are served outside. The butler service ensures that you can enjoy exactly what you fancy anywhere in the chalet. This small castle in Oberlech has been around for centuries. In more recent times the castle was upgraded into a chalet and this, as Chalet N, has now been further upgraded to well above the standard of a five-star resort. Get a sense of the special synergy between real tradition and exceptional luxury, and experience a moment which you will look back upon forever. www.chalet-n.com
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 125
09/06/2014 16:53
126
Travel and Leisure
07 08
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 126
09
09/06/2014 16:53
Corinthia Hotel, London 07 The Writer’s penthouse double level lounge area 08 The Whitehall penthouse terrace 09 The Royal penthouse lounge 10 The Musician’s penthouse bedroom
Housed within a Victorian building, Corinthia Hotel London provides unrivalled world-class luxury with 294 rooms, including 36 suites and 7 penthouses offer sweeping views across London’s most popular landmarks. With only a small handful of existing top tier suites in the major hotels of London, the recently opened penthouses are expected to transform the city’s luxury market, setting new standards for the hospitality world. They are built within the soaring turrets of the grand Victorian building, with distinct style and unique handcrafted bespoke finishes and furniture. Each is themed around personalities typically found living in an affluent London street, and include The Royal Penthouse, The Hamilton Penthouse, The Musician’s Penthouse, The Writer’s Penthouse, The Whitehall Penthouse, The Explorer’s Penthouse and The Actor’s Penthouse. Designed by GA Design International, they evoke an elegant residential style, all appointed with expansive outside terraces complete with exceptional and previously unseen views across the capital.
Corinthia Hotel has superb ground floor offerings including restaurant The Northall, serving the best in British produce throughout the day; modern Italian cuisine at Massimo Restaurant & Oyster Bar and the musically inspired Bassoon Bar. Corinthia London is also home to the flagship ESPA Life at Corinthia, a next-generation spa housed across four floors, together with a hair salon by Daniel Galvin. The hotel boasts the largest room sizes in London, original restored Victorian columns and tall windows that let in swathes of natural light. Cutting edge technology in rooms and meeting rooms allow for recording, mixing and broadcasting from dedicated media rooms. Corinthia London is a 21st century grand hotel located in the heart of London, created by experts with a passion for craftsmanship and an understanding of world-class service, and is the ninth of Corinthia Hotels’ collection of five-star hotels founded by the Pisani family of Malta. www.corinthia.com/London
10
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 127
09/06/2014 16:53
128
Travel and Leisure
11
The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna opened its doors in August 2012 bringing to Vienna a new and fresh allure to the long and established Luxury Hotel Industry. The hotel offers 202 distinctive hotel rooms including 43 sumptuous suites and has enjoyed an enviable reputation attracting luxury-seeking clientele from around the world. The original construction of The RitzCarlton, Vienna was four historic palaces which date back to the 19th century and were joined together. Located in the heart of the city on famous Ring Boulevard, The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna is only minutes away from major sights such as Hofburg and the Imperial Apartments, and upscale shopping districts. An Arabian speaking personal shopper tells guests about the latest trends and accompanies them on their shopping trip, or brings a selection of clothes to the hotel for a private fitting. The rooms and suites offer individual character and a spectacular view over the city or into a serene courtyard. All suites are elegantly furnished, some featuring balconies or terraces with views over the rooftops of the city. The Presidential Suite is the most magnificent suite with historic ceiling frescoes, wall paneling and a historic fire place
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 128
incorporated into the suite. Dstrikt is the hotel’s premium dining spot; a farmto-table steakhouse for meat and local produce lovers. Guests experience an authentic local dining adventure enjoying the finest selection of Austrian meat cooked on a charcoal grill and served with delicious side dishes prepared from local products such as sautéed young spinach with braised garlic, cheese Spaetzle or purely enjoyed with Dstrikt’s homemade bread. The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna also prides itself to be the very first hotel within The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company to carry the luxury Guerlain Spa brand and products, making it another unique destination for rest and relaxation. Today, the Guerlain Spa at The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna combines its aesthetic expertise with unique massage know-how. It offers a range of unique treatments in six luxurious suites including two couple suites. An additional wellness area features sauna, steam bath and heated relaxation beds, a fully equipped Fitness Centre and an 18m indoor steel swimming pool with underwater music. www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Vienna
12
09/06/2014 16:53
11 The Presidential suite living room 12 Ceiling of the historic staircase 13 Atmosphere rooftop bar and lounge 14 The reception of the Ritz-Carlton Vienna
Located in the heart of the city on famous Ring Boulevard, The RitzCarlton, Vienna is only minutes away from major sights.
13 14
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 129
09/06/2014 16:53
130
Travel and Leisure
The Alpina, Gstaad The luxurious Alpina Gstaad opened in Switzerland in late 2012 and was the first newly built five star hotel in Gstaad in 100 years. Located in an exclusive hill top area in Oberbort, just five minutes from the center of the village, The Alpina Gstaad overlooks beautiful Saanenland in the heart of the Bernese Alps. The property includes a hotel, 14 private apartments and 2 private chalets, and will establish a new level of distinction offering a Swiss alpine guest experience that is warm, authentic, discerning and beyond the expected. The Alpina Gstaad has been awarded a Five Star Superior Hotel rating by Hotellerie Suisse and is a member of the Preferred Hotel Group and Virtuoso’s Preview programme. Set on five acres, the five-star property is a contemporary interpretation of traditional Swiss architecture incorporating authentic local materials and time-honoured Alpine style. Massive blocks of Ringgenberg limestone, the rich brown stone from local quarries, have been hand carved for the entrance and ground floor. Hundred-year-old fir wood, gathered from
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 130
old Alpine farm houses, decorates the façade and lines the walls of the public rooms and huge windows allow for plenty of natural light and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Bordered by an acre and a half of gardens, The Alpina Gstaad has three restaurants featuring traditional Swiss, international and Asian cuisines, a bar and lounge, a private cinema, a cigar room, a ballroom and several boardrooms. The 21,500-square-foot spa will offer holistic treatments and rejuvenation programs and will include a hammam, a fitness center and an 82-foot lap pool. A large outdoor swimming pool will be set in the gardens. While Gstaad is best known as one of the largest areas for skiing and snowboarding in Switzerland, it is also an ideal place to visit during the summer months. From 1 June – 30 September, The Alpina Gstaad has exclusively collaborated with outdoor specialists Alpinzentrum Gstaad to offer their guests fun and adventurous activities in the heart of Gstaad’s natural surroundings. www.thealpinagstaad.ch
09/06/2014 16:54
15 Bedroom with a contemporary interpretation of traditional Swiss architecture
15
16 Relaxing area by the fire 17 The Alpina Gstaad gardens during winter
16 17
Set on five acres, the five-star property is a contemporary interpretation of traditional Swiss architecture incorporating authentic local materials and time-honoured Alpine style.
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 131
09/06/2014 16:54
132
Travel and Leisure
20
18 19
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 132
09/06/2014 16:54
18 Living area of the Royal Suite 19 The Ritz Carlton indoor pool 20 Bedroom of the Royal Suite
The globally renowned Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa are just five minutes away, along with the diverse nightlife of Downtown Dubai.
The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC Located in the heart of Dubai International Financial Centre, The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC offers a dynamic setting and opulent retreat for any affluent traveler. Standing 14 stories high, the hotel epitomizes understated luxury and elegance, behind its stylish limestone façade. Guests can enjoy the hotel’s outstanding leisure facilities, whilst benefiting from a direct walkway to DIFC Gate Village, famed for its international restaurants and art galleries. The globally renowned Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa are just five minutes away, along with the diverse nightlife of Downtown Dubai, making The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC the perfect location from which to explore the limitless nearby sights and attractions. The 124 Executive Residence apartments combine sophisticated style and luxurious home furnishings, with the added benefit of the legendary Ritz-Carlton service, and access to the hotel’s five-star facilities. The hotel also boasts 341 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites, including two Royal Suites. Each suite has separate living and sleeping rooms, bathrooms with natural daylight, large marble bath tubs and stand-alone showers, and all suites overlook the picturesque hotel courtyard, or the vibrant center of DIFC. The Sunken Garden serves as an exquisite shisha
122-133 Travel and Leisure - Hotels.indd 133
terrace, with over 30 flavors to enjoy against the serene backdrop of the water fountain. Memorable dining options are plentiful with Blue Rain, a Thai fine-dining restaurant, Can Can, a French brasserie and boulangerie, and stylish steak house Center Cut, with a lively piano bar. No. 5 Lounge & Bar offers casual elegance and a stunning roof-top terrace with DJ, whilst the Lobby Lounge serves Afternoon Tea and exquisite evening beverages. The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC Spa, offers a sanctuary for pure indulgence for body, mind and spirit, with holistic and customized treatments, two suites with a private whirlpool bath, eleven single treatment rooms with natural daylight, and male and female steam rooms. A variety of space and 1,400 square meter ballroom accommodate for a diverse range of meetings and events, with facilities including eight private meeting rooms. The spectacular Samaya Ballroom is divisible by four, to cater to every size of event, and with space for up to 900 people for a banquet. Every aspect at The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC is crafted by a dedicated team, providing a truly memorable, bespoke, and personalized experience for all. www.ritzcarlton.com/dubaiifc
09/06/2014 16:54
134
Travel
Over the past few years as the international property market has proved to be a volatile and uncertain area in which to invest, those considering purchasing a holiday home or city apartment overseas are now being offered an alternative, through membership of The Hideaways Club. Instead of outright ownership, members pay an annual fee to invest in and stay at a wide portfolio of luxurious properties in all parts of the world. Perfect for the global traveller, The Hideaways Club offers a beautiful and exclusive range of residences to be enjoyed year round.
The Hideaways Club 134-137 Travel - Club.indd 134
09/06/2014 16:55
F
ormed in 2007, The Hideaways Club concept came about as a result of personal experience. Whilst several destination companies were offering certain features, the founders felt no one had created the proposition of ownership and lifestyle in a format that would work for them. They wanted a club that ultimately provided an unrivalled luxury travel lifestyle and an exclusive Members Club together with the added benefit of being an investment, but without the inconvenience of second home ownership. What resulted was The Hideaways Club, a global property company specialising in equity ownership and the management of a collection of international properties. The Club launched with the Classic Collection, which has grown to become the largest club of its kind in the world, offering the opportunity to invest in and exclusively enjoy an entire portfolio of luxury villas and chalets throughout Europe, Africa, Mauritius and South-East Asia. Investors in the fund automatically
134-137 Travel - Club.indd 135
09/06/2014 16:55
136
Travel
134-137 Travel - Club.indd 136
02
03
04
05
06
07
09/06/2014 16:55
01 Villa Hibiscus in Mauritius 02 Chalet Lumiere in Morzine, France 03 Masseria La Rosa in Puglia 04 Dar Lain in Marrakech 05 Villa Infinity in Portugal 06 Villa Layan in Phuket - pool and sunbeds 07 Villa Marianne in Provence, France 08 Villa Livka on the Island of Brac, Croatia 09 View from the balcony of Dubai residence
become members of The Hideaways Club, giving them year round usage of a wide variety of properties worth upwards of £1.5 million. These range from chalets in the Swiss and French Alps and Japan’s premier ski region of Niseko, to luxurious villas in the South of France, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, South Africa and Croatia. The club recently added properties in Ibiza, Mauritius, Bali and Phuket to its portfolio, with many more scheduled to be added over the next three years. Properties in the portfolio are chosen with the area’s natural beauty and ease of access in mind. Furnished with great care and attention, all villas are family-friendly and have four or five bedrooms, private swimming pools and gardens. Most recently the company launched its second fund, the City Collection – a private members’ club which will provide members with a new way to enjoy a high-end city lifestyle. The City Collection offers a range of fully-serviced apartments in some of the world’s most vibrant and upmarket cities. Set to initially begin with ten apartments spanning New York, London, Paris, Venice, Miami and Prague, additional cities scheduled to be added to the portfolio include metropolises from Moscow and Rio de Janeiro to Bangkok and Sydney, with an ultimate target of 120 city properties over the next three years. Properties will be located in secure locations near the city centre, overseen by a five star Concierge Service. The City Collection has been created for people who enjoy travel, an international lifestyle and make frequent city visits. It is of particular appeal to those with busy schedules who are looking for a few days relaxation, a family break or those wanting to experience the wide variety of shops, restaurants and nightlife on offer in these cities. The key word in The Hideaways Club’s description is ‘ownership’. With both club funds, investors buy a stake in the whole property portfolio which is selected, managed and maintained by leading experts in these fields. They also enjoy the benefits of a property investment without all the hassles typically associated
08
134-137 Travel - Club.indd 137
with sole ownership. The majority of destination clubs often lack the security of investment and actual asset ownership, and only involve the purchase of a limited number of properties, thereby limiting any potential future growth of the investment. The Hideaways Club Classic Collection currently owns 29 properties and, through its alliances with the US-based Equity Estates and Banyan Tree Private Collection, members now have the choice of over 50 properties around the world in which to holiday. Aside from the investment, The Hideaways Club offers a unique and flexible travel lifestyle featuring a private Concierge Service, tailoring each holiday to suit members’ needs. The central Concierge will reserve the villa, chalet or apartment, book airport transfers or rental cars, make dinner reservations and organise any other activities guests wish to arrange ahead of time. Each destination has a local Concierge who will greet members upon arrival at the property in order to brief them on location and ensure all their needs are met. The Hideaways Club Classic Collection offers three types of membership – Premium, Lifestyle and Associate. Premium membership allows members to enjoy properties four to eight weeks a year. Lifestyle gives members two to five weeks a year and Associate giving up to four weeks usage a year. In order to preserve exclusivity the club will close at 600 members and 100 properties within the next few years. The City Collection offers two levels of membership – Premium and Associate. Premium membership gives members up to 23 nights a year in any one of the apartments. Associate membership, providing a half share in the company portfolio, entitles members to 12 nights a year in any apartment in the collection. The Hideaways Club’s portfolio continues to grow through further acquisitions and strategic alliances with other private holiday clubs, offering a logical financial alternative to the higher risk traditional purchasing model. www.thehideawaysclub.com
09
09/06/2014 16:55
138
Spas
Spa Secrets Treat yourself to a world of peace and relaxation at our top selection of spas around the world. Enjoy the spaces designed to boost your well-being, with everything from fitness centres complete with state-of-the-art equipment, beauty salons to cater to all beauty needs, indoor and outdoor pool and rest areas, as well as an extensive and award winning range of treatments from facials to massage. Find absolute harmony between body, mind and soul as you experience the absolute best.
138-145 Spas.indd 138
09/06/2014 16:56
Six Senses Spa, Alpina Gstaad Winner of the ‘Best Spa at a Luxury Hotel/Resort’ at the Gala Spa Awards 2014, the Alpina Gstaad’s Six Senses Spa triumphed over 31 countries around the world. Located in the unspoilt area of the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, the Spa is a luxurious sanctuary with an extensive menu of world-renowned treatments by specialist practitioners. A flexible, intimate space, the twelve treatment rooms include a Floatation Room, a Hammam, a Colour Therapy Room, an Ayurveda Treatment Room, an Oriental Room, a Salt Room, a Cave Room designed for couples treatments, and five multi-purpose rooms for individual treatments. The spa also includes an indoor pool, an outdoor pool in the garden, two Jacuzzis, a yoga studio, a fitness centre and a juice bar, as well as a “salty” children’s play area in the Salt Room. Children can also splash around in their very own swimming pool complete with mini water slide. The male and female changing rooms boast experience showers, ice showers with mini ice fountains, saunas complete with colour therapy
138-145 Spas.indd 139
09/06/2014 16:56
140
Spas
technology, a hammam, hot and cold plunge pools, and a relaxation area with sensory pods and heated water beds. The Spa, with its peaceful ambience, stylish indoor and outdoor areas, also offers guests outdoor exercise classes in the purest of Alpine air. The Six Senses Spa combines a holistic range of therapies from East and West with an alpine touch. The team includes, among others, a healer and an expert on Tibetan and Tuina treatments. Founded over 25 years ago in Germany QMS Medicosmetics is recognized around the world for the superior effectiveness of its skincare and spa treatments. This high-performance skincare collection combines exceptional ingredients with revolutionary technology to create a unique portfolio of skincare products, facial and body treatments like no other. The Spa offers an unparalleled range of treatments
as well as comprehensive programmes spanning several days using a range of Swiss treatments inspired by local traditions. These include curative massages as well as facial, herbal and anti-aging therapies. In addition to the extensive Spa Treatment Menu for Residential and Day Guests, the Six Senses Spa has introduced summer Mountain Detox Programmes to increase energy, vitality and recalibrate the mind and body during the summer months. The three programmes range from the purely nutritional and cleansing Mountain Detox Delight, to a Mountain Detox MediCheck with Heart Rate Variability analysis and blood test. Let the experienced practitioners advise and guide you, or simply refer to the extensive spa menu for an experience catered perfectly to your needs. www.thealpinagstaad.ch
The Spa, with its peaceful ambience, stylish indoor and outdoor areas, also offers guests outdoor exercise classes in the purest of Alpine air.
03
02
138-145 Spas.indd 140
04
09/06/2014 16:56
01 The relaxing indoor pool 02 One of the alpine-style treatment rooms 03 Six Senses juice bar area 04 Soothing and simplistic interiors 05 Entrance to the Spa
05
138-145 Spas.indd 141
09/06/2014 16:56
142
Spas
06 Special tranquility area with relaxing music, stimulating aromas and mood lighting system 07 One of the eleven types of treatment rooms 08 Magnificent views over Tala Bay
06 07
With comfortable heated seats and waterbeds, Zara Spa’s tranquillity rooms offer the ultimate chill-out zone after an invigorating treatment.
08
138-145 Spas.indd 142
09/06/2014 16:56
Zara Spa, Mövenpick Resort & Spa Tala Bay Aqaba Based at Mövenpick Resort & Spa Tala Bay Aqaba, Zara Spa brings a new dimension to spas in the Middle East with a range of award-winning treatments and innovative well-being experiences. It has everything a guest could require whether they are looking to rebalance their spirits, reinvigorate their bodies or simply enjoy an indulgent beauty treatment. In addition to traditional treatments, Zara Spa has revolutionised Jordan’s spa landscape with experiences such as the ‘Ice Fountain’ that stimulates circulation and tightens the skin as well as ‘Experience Showers’ that completely revitalise the body through the inventive use of light and fragrance. The treatments were pioneered by Zara Spa’s sister outlet based at the Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea, which has consistently been voted one of the best spas in the Middle East by readers of Condé Nast Traveller Magazine. When Zara Spa opened at Tala Bay in 2010 it was instantly a success due to its combination of innovative and traditional treatments as well as its extensive range of locally sourced Dead Sea and Thalgo beauty products. The spa covers 1,200 sqm and features 11 different types of treatment rooms. These include a sky-light hydro pool, honeymoon suite, a relaxing sauna, skin-enhancing steam rooms, natural products shop, beauty salon, nail studio and relaxing tranquillity areas. Using mainly naturally sourced local products, Zara Spa’s body and face treatments range from anti-aging mud facials using Dead Sea ingredients and algae facials designed to rebalance the skin to Thalgo body
138-145 Spas.indd 143
treatments which reduces cellulite and marine wraps that detoxify the body. Zara Spa’s reputation for massage excellence is underlined by treatments such as reflexology which targets body pressure points to improve energy levels; massages featuring aromatherapy oils to gently ease away tension and classic Ayurveda that stimulates the body through pressure point massage. The underwater jets of the naturally illuminated hydro pool are perfect for stimulating the entire body while the spa’s famous bliss baths offer the ultimate in watery indulgence. Cleansing, relaxing, invigorating, Zara Spa’s steam treatments include the use of blossom extracts to invigorate respiration and natural wood aromas in the sauna to nourish the skin. After the invigoration of a warming sauna or steam bath, the Zara Spa’s famous Ice Fountain provides a life-enhancing blast of Alpine cool. Using a combination of immersive waters, unique fragranced scents, coloured lighting and a range of showerhead pressures, the body’s blood circulation is boosted and the skin is tightened. With comfortable heated seats and waterbeds, Zara Spa’s tranquillity rooms offer the ultimate chill-out zone after an invigorating treatment. Whatever a guest requires – whether it’s a great way to relax, a perfect beauty treatment or a wonderful way to invigorate their spirits – Zara Spa offers the ideal experience. www.moevenpick-hotels.com
09/06/2014 16:56
144
Spas
09 The spa reception area 10 A couple’s treatment room
138-145 Spas.indd 144
09/06/2014 16:56
Six Senses Spa Zighy Bay Six Senses Spa at Zighy Bay is a refuge for the tired mind and body; a retreat from the busy humdrum of daily life; a haven for the calm & relaxed soul; a sanctuary of ultimate wellness. The team is committed to delivering integrated wellness experiences along with peace, tranquillity, fitness and health, combining innovative and ancient holistic treatments from the expert in-house and external wellness consultants. The Six Senses Spa offers nine treatment rooms, a juice bar and two Arabian Hammams inspired by centuries of tradition. The full menu of local and signature treatments include the four-handed Sensory Spa Journey and local Wonders of Oman, delivered by skilled International therapists. For the Locally Inspired Treatments, inspiration is found through age-old Omani traditions only using plants, herbs and ingredients indigenous to the local area. The Wonders of Oman treatment is a great way to increase blood circulation and eliminate toxins. A warm sea salt bath with fresh mint is followed by a body scrub made from local coffee. Enjoy an Arabian Body Rasul with slimming and purifying properties to leave you revitalized and refreshed, and finish with a targeted draining massage using frankincense essential oil. The Arabian Facial is a cleansing and refreshing facial straight from nature. Pamper yourself by discovering the tasty benefits of figs, almond powder and warm melting honey for your skin. The facial is good enough to eat and ideal for all skin types. Upon completion is a henna hair mask with a soothing scalp massage. The luxurious Royal Moroccan Hammam ritual begins with a personalised Moroccan steam, followed
09
138-145 Spas.indd 145
by an application of black soap with eucalyptus essential oil. A therapist then performs the Moroccan total body exfoliation treatment leaving skin supple and enriched. Also on offer is a range of Traditional Thai therapies to reawaken your senses, including massages, stretching and acupressure techniques that will encourage relaxation and open energy channels for the feeling of wellbeing. The Thai massage focuses on pressure points with gentle stretching along the body’s energy channels. It is offered fully-clothed and without oil, and will stimulate the body’s energy flow. Or try the Thai Herbal massage, which incorporates classic Thai healing herbal compresses, to improve ‘Prana flow’, ease aches and inspire circulation. Enjoy a skin brightening experience using Six Senses Skin Care during bath rituals and body scrubs. Body scrubs remove the natural build-up of dead cells and body masks work beneath the surface, resulting in a renewing effect. Treat yourself with local Omani ingredients of frankincense and salt that immerse you in a mineralizing and cleansing ritual. The Six Senses Signature Scrub is perfect for sensitive skin, using a jojoba scrub plus Roman chamomile and lavender essences. For normal skin a rice grain scrub plus ylang-ylang and patchouli essences is used, and for oily skin - crushed coconut shell scrub plus orange and rosemary essences. With a huge range of options to choose from, the Six Senses Spa is the perfect haven to meet all your relaxation needs. www.sixsenses.com/resorts/zighy-bay/spa
10
09/06/2014 16:56
146
Dining
The Northall, Corinthia Hotel, London The Northall showcases the very best of British cuisine with a focus on seasonal produce from artisanal suppliers who provide the restaurant with the finest ingredients from around the British Isles. Located at the Corinthia Hotel in London, the light and airy restaurant is overseen by Executive Chef Garry Hollihead, formerly of L’Escargot, Les Saveurs, Grosvenor House in Dubai and Embassy. Designed by GA Design, The Northall is arranged across four stunning and distinct areas, offering a private dining room for intimate dinners. It encapsulates quintessential British hospitality – both past and present – with a comfortable and relaxed eating environment, whilst offering views over Whitehall Gardens towards the River Thames.
146-155 Dining D24.indd 146
09/06/2014 16:57
Food for Thought Durrah takes a look at this season’s selection of top dining locations, featuring sushi in Switzerland, a taste of Thai in Bahrain, New York dining in Dubai, and the best of British fare. From delicious cuisine to impeccably tasteful interior design, these restaurants are the very essence of sophistication, and promise an outstanding experience in every respect.
146-155 Dining D24.indd 147
09/06/2014 16:57
148
Dining
02
146-155 Dining D24.indd 148
09/06/2014 16:57
The all day menu incorporates dishes such as mouth-watering Goosnaugh Chicken with white bean and parsley cassoulet and wild mushrooms, and roast butternut squash risotto with Harbourne blue goat’s cheese. Hollihead has gone to great lengths to source unique and wholesome ingredients from artisan producers including beef from The Lake District Farm and the freshest fish from Dylan Bean’s day boats in Cornwall. With a focus on wholly British suppliers, the restaurant also features a display of British cheeses sourced from La Cave. The Northall offers a secluded gallery dining area on the mezzanine level overlooking the buzz of the main restaurant, as well as the more private beautiful Dining Room, located adjacent to the restaurant. Suitable for all personal and professional occasions, The Northall is the ideal location for pre and post theatre dining. www.thenorthall.co.uk
03 01 The Northall bar area
04
02 The spacious and elegant dining layout 03 Comfortable and intimate dining 04 Fresh oysters
146-155 Dining D24.indd 149
09/06/2014 16:57
150
Dining
Chinwaggery + Soul, Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Beach, Dubai New York style bar, lounge and restaurant venue Chinwaggery + Soul, has recently reopened to showcase a series of additions and enhancements. Along with updated decorative details, a new evening restaurant now forms part of the outlet on Jumeirah Beach Residence. The indoor-outdoor bar and lounge setting of Chinwaggery includes a section at the hotel’s poolside and has a feel of vibrant Manhattan with a selection of artisan refreshments. Guests can choose between indoor and al fresco dining. Soul is the new addition – a funky, New York-style brasserie restaurant that serves dinner with a menu offering varied choices like fresh local seafood, shellfish and global steaks. An extensive selection of beverages from world-renowned locations can also be selected. Making food with gusto, setting up new kitchens,
146-155 Dining D24.indd 150
preparing for master classes, cooking for live television and inventing new menus are things head Chef Edi Pancamala do well. The Indonesian national studied at the Wisakti International Tourism Institute in Jakarta and initially set foot in Dubai in 2001, spurred by an opportunity to work in Gordon Ramsay’s awardwinning Verre restaurant. Over a period of six years he developed into a true professional and honed his skills in preparing European cuisine. Chef Edi’s vision is simple, straightforward, spirited and ambitious. “My hope for this fantastic restaurant is that it will make a soulful impact – that the food our guests eat will provide physical nourishment, be an emotional experience on cooking food with love and result in positive memories”. www.moevenpick-hotels.com
09/06/2014 16:57
05 05 The new fun and vibrant atmosphere 06 Situated on the hotel’s second floor 07 One starch, one vegetable and two sauces with every cut of prime beef 08 Artisan Cheese Pralinées: Goat’s cheese, strawberry and balsamico almond coated camembert, brown butter and honey-glazed manchego
06
07
08
Soul is the new addition – a funky, New York-style brasserie restaurant that serves dinner with a menu offering varied choices like fresh local seafood, shellfish and global steaks.
146-155 Dining D24.indd 151
09/06/2014 16:58
152
Dining
Meaning blessing in Japanese, Megu presents modern Japanese cuisine, sushi, and sumibi aburiyaki – a grilling technique using bincho-tan, a special charcoal found only near Kyoto and prized for its superior purifying properties.
09
10
146-155 Dining D24.indd 152
09/06/2014 16:58
09 Yellowtail Carpaccio with Chilli Kanzuri Sauce 10 Outdoor dining area 11 Contemporary ambience of Megu interior 12 Crispy Okaki Asparagus
11
12
Megu, The Alpina Gstaad After the success of its flagship restaurant in New York, Megu has opened its first establishment in Europe at The Alpina Gstaad. Decidedly contemporary, authentic and full of surprises, the Japanese restaurant’s menu was an instant hit with the Gstaad community, and has rung in a new culinary era for the Bernese Oberland. Meaning blessing in Japanese, Megu presents modern Japanese cuisine, sushi, and sumibi aburiyaki – a grilling technique using bincho-tan, a special charcoal found only near Kyoto and prized for its superior purifying properties. Delivering outstanding food, brilliant design and first class service, Megu is a harmony of all the finest and rarest ingredients found from around the world, where authentic and avant-garde Japanese ingredients are combined to suit every palate. Head Chef Takumi Murase and Head Sushi Chef Tsutomu Kugota both trained at Megu in New York, and watching them at work, the duo’s talent is plain to see. Armed with their Santoku knives, they take diners on a journey of discovery through some of Japan’s most unusual ingredients and dishes. The Megu team has carefully selected the best American Kobe Beef available in the U.S, as well as the best Japanese Satsuma Beef from Kyushu. In addition to the Kobe Beef, Megu specializes in highly refined selections of hand-made Tofu, fresh organic edamame and authentic smelts, flown in from all parts of Japan. Some of the restaurant’s signature dishes include Original Crispy Asparagus, Oriental Salad, Crispy Kanzuri Shrimp, Salmon Tartare, Kobe Beef Carpaccio with Basil, Foie Gras in Crispy Kobe Beef Croquettes and Tajima Kobe Beef Skewers. The overall décor is filled with customary Japanese interior accents and complimented with a contemporary ambiance. The rich fabrics, the highest grade wood materials, and the artistic integrity are pure luxury. www.thealpinagstaad.ch/en-62-megu.html
146-155 Dining D24.indd 153
09/06/2014 16:58
154
Dining
13 14
Thai Lounge, The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain Hotel & Spa welcomes a modern sanctuary for mingling and chill-out evenings to its wide selection of innovative dining venues, called Thai. The Thai lounge is situated opposite the Overlook, between the outdoor pool and the beach. The indoor area features floor to ceiling windows guaranteeing unobstructed views towards the beach, the private island and the poolside. The signature feature of the lounge is the large bar counter showcasing a real size replica of the ‘Suphanahong’, the flagship of the fleet of four Royal Thai Barges used during ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya in Bangkok. The Suphanahong represents the feature of a mythical golden swan. Thai provides light food snacks with a PanAsian and Thai influence as well as a large selection of mixed beverages made mainly of typical Thai fruits combined with herbal and spice infusions, designed and crafted by the lounge’s liquid chefs.
146-155 Dining D24.indd 154
The refreshing drinks’ menu is complemented by an extensive list of classics served by the glass. The Pan-Asian concept of the lounge with an emphasis on Thai culinary delights is translated in its cuisine with a wide array of snacks and bite size creations suitable to be shared among friends. The authenticity of the culinary offerings is assured by talented Thai and Asian chefs, showcasing their true craftsmanship through creative fruit carvings and food displays pursuant to The Ritz-Carlton’s philosophy of providing lasting memories for guests at every touch-point of the experience. At night the lounge backdrop is complemented with dimmed lights by the pool area and fire pits, creating the perfect place to relish many evenings, while listening to live DJ entertainment by DJ Lucy. www.ritzcarlton.com/bahrain
09/06/2014 16:58
15 16
13 Exterior dining area at night 14 Sushi is one of the various Asian dishes on offer 15 Large glass windows overlook the pool area 16 The restaurant sits right next to the infinity pool
146-155 Dining D24.indd 155
09/06/2014 16:58
156-157 DHL .indd 156
09/06/2014 16:59
156-157 DHL .indd 157
09/06/2014 16:59
158
Bon AppĂŠtit
Twist on Tradition Chef Colin Clague grew up among fishing and farming communities on the Isle of Man, where he developed a keen sense of the quality of local produce and the seasonality of dishes and their ingredients. He has brought this passion for fresh flavours to Qbara; a contemporary restaurant with an unmistakably Middle Eastern tradition. Located in Wafi Fort Complex in Dubai, Qbara shares some of their signature recipes, serving a unique take on quintessentially authentic dishes.
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 158
09/06/2014 17:02
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 159
09/06/2014 17:02
160
Bon Appétit
Crispy Soft Shell Crab ‘Saj’, Roasted Garlic & Harissa Ingredients • 6 Jumbo soft shell crabs, cleaned and washed • 3 cups flour • Maldon sea salt, to taste • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste • 2 cups full cream milk • 4 each whole eggs, beaten • 4 cups Panko breadcrumbs • 2 each baby gem lettuce • 6 each slow cooked tomato • 2 each compressed cucumber, seeds removed and cut lengthways • 20ml roasted garlic mayonnaise, see recipe • 90g spring onions, grilled and peeled • 6 each Saj bread • 100g harissa paste, see recipe • 100s Tarrator sauce, see recipe Garnish • Baby rocket • Za’atar • Affilia cress Method 1. Panee the soft shell crabs using the seasoned flour, beaten egg/milk mixture then the flour, place to one side. 2. Brush the hot Saj bread lightly with the roasted garlic mayonnaise, then a little harissa 3. Deep fry the soft shell crab until crisp and golden brown, season. 4. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the crabs to a double layer of paper towel to drain and keep it warm in the oven. 5. Place the baby gem on top of the garlic mayonnaise, top with the fried crab, grilled spring onion and compressed cucumber. 6. Roll tightly, make sure the crab legs are sticking out of both sides, cut into four, arrange on a plate with extra harissa and garnish lightly with herbs and cresses.
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 160
09/06/2014 17:02
Spicy Lamb Cutlets, Rosemary, Oregano & Labneh INGREDIENTS For the marinade • 60g freshly ground cumin • 60g smoked paprika • 40g oregano, finely chopped • 12g rosemary, finely chopped • 40g garlic powder • 12g Shicimi pepper • 80g Syrian chilli paste • 12g ground coriander seeds • 12g ground ginger • 12g ground cinnamon • 80g soft brown sugar • 20g Maldon sea salt • 4g turmeric powder • 360ml extra virgin olive oil • 120ml freshly squeezed lemon juice For the pickled vegetables • 30 baby carrots • 20 baby onions • 10 Lebanese cucumber • 20 black olives • 1x 30cm each konbu • 150g castor sugar • 20g salt • 20 each black peppercorns • 20 each coriander seeds • 1 litre water • 200g salt • 500ml rice vinegar Garnish • Assorted cresses and herbs • 300g mint labneh, see recipe Method 1. Mix the water and the 200g salt and soak the carrot batons and baby onions for 30 minutes, remove from the salted water and refresh under cold running water for about 15 minutes, discard the salted water. 2. Bring another litre of water, table salt, vinegar, sugar, konbu, coriander seeds and the peppercorns to a simmer, till the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and allow to cool. 3. Marinate the Lebanese cucumber, baby onions, olives and carrot batons in the pickling liquid for at least 72 hours. 4. Finely chop the fresh herbs then add along with the rest of the ingredients into the blender, blend to a paste, check the seasoning. 5. Trim and clean the lamb cutlets, marinade for 18 hours. 6. Make the labneh with freshly chopped mint and coriander. 7. Wipe off all the marinade from the lamb cutlets, grill the cutlets and serve with some mixed pickle and the mint and coriander labneh.
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 161
09/06/2014 17:02
162
Bon AppĂŠtit
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 162
09/06/2014 17:02
Turkish Inspired Beef Tartare, Tomato & Red Onion Salsa Ingredients • 350g beef sirloin, trimmed of all fat • 350g beef rib eye, trimmed of all fat • 100g fine bulgar • 60g banana shallots, brunoise • 8g garlic clove, finely grated • 70ml lemon juice, approx to taste • 5g harissa paste • 10g Syrian chilli powder • 5g Middle Eastern five spice recipe, see recipe • 5g ground cumin • 5g ground cinnamon • 100ml extra virgin olive oil • 10g flat leaf parsley, finely chopped • 8g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped • 5g fresh dill, finely chopped • Freshly ground salt and black pepper, to taste For • • • • • • • •
the Roasted Tomato and Onion Sauce 300g ripe tomatoes, grilled, peeled and chopped 100g red capsicum, grilled 100g green capsicum, grilled 19g large shallots, grilled and finely chopped 5g roasted garlic puree, crushed to a puree with salt (could be roasted) 25g tomato paste Maldon sea salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Method 1. For the tomato/pepper sauce: Marinate the capsicums, shallot and garlic with the olive oil, chargrilled until cooked. Remove the skins, chop the shallots and capsicums then place in a sauce pan with the chopped tomato and tomato paste. Simmer for 10 minutes until reduced to the right consistency. 2. Dice the sirloin and rib eye very small. Chop further until they start to stick together and become a little creamy. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for thirty minutes. 3. Place the bulgar wheat in a mixing bowl with 200ml of boiling water, stir to coat the bulgar with water and let stand for 10 minutes. 4. In a medium mixing bowl combine the shallots, garlic, lemon juice, harissa paste, chillies, five spice, cinnamon and cumin and add a little salt. Let stand for 5 minutes to soften the diced shallots and garlic. 5. Stir in the olive oil, bulgar, herbs and meat. 6. Mix well until totally combined. The mixture should be creamy and slightly lighter in colour than the original mixture. Season with the salt and pepper. 7. Refrigerate and serve nice and chilled. 8. Drizzle over extra virgin olive oil and garnish with assorted cresses and crisp lavouche bread.
Garnish • Salt and thyme roasted beetroots, various colours • Crisp croutons • Various cresses • Garlic crisps
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 163
09/06/2014 17:02
164
Bon Appétit
Milk & Honey Ingredients For the Greek Yoghurt Pannacotta • 500g Greek yoghurt • 2.75 each gelatin leaves or 1tsp powdered gelatin, dissolved • 350ml full fat fresh milk • 100m whipping cream • 100g Demerara sugar • 1g sumac Method 1. Soak the gelatin leaves in ice water. If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle 1tsp of powder into a bowl of 2-3 tablespoons of cold water. Next, place the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water until the mixture dissolves into a thick liquid. Strain before using to make sure there are no undissolved granules. 2. Bring the milk, cream, sugar and sumac to a simmer. Once simmered, remove from the heat and add the gelatin. Stir to combine. Sometimes the acidity from the sumac can cause a light curdling, depending on the brand. No cause for alarm – if this happens, use a hand blender to bring it back together again. 3. Allow to cool to blood temperature (about 37C) over an ice bath, stirring every once in a while. Once cooled, strain, and then fold in the Greek yoghurt. Mix well and use the hand blender once more for an extra silky texture. 4. Pour into glasses or small bowls and set in the fridge until firm, about two hours. Makes 6-7 portions (approximately 150-175g each). Ingredients For the Walnut Praline • 200g walnuts • 150g caster sugar • 25g unsalted butter • 2g crushed sea salt or table salt Method 1. Lightly toast the walnuts in a pre-heated oven at 170C for approximately 5 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool. 2. Next, heat a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Sprinkle a small amount of the sugar on the bottom. As it starts to melt, add some more sugar and stir. Continue in this fashion until all the sugar is melted. 3. Once the sugar is a deep amber colour, add the butter and stir vigorously. 4. Add the walnuts, and stir to coat with the caramel. 5. Turn the whole mixture onto a greased surface or silicone mat. Pat down with a spatula to make it flat. Sprinkle over the salt, and allow it to cool. 6. Once cool, break into pieces and store in an airtight container until ready for use.
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 164
Ingredients For the Cinder Toffee • 250g caster sugar • 5g baking soda • 25g glucose • 50ml water Method 1. Place the sugar, glucose syrup and water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, break up any lumps in the baking soda with your fingers. 2. Continue to cook until the mixture is a light golden colour (about 175C). Then quickly whisk in the baking soda. The mixture will start to expand rather quickly. Quickly pour the toffee mixture onto a greased surface or silicone mat and allow cooling. Do not touch – the sugar will be incredibly hot. Once cooled, break into pieces and store in an airtight container. Ingredients For the Condensed Milk Granita • 1 can condensed milk • 490ml water • 2 each cardamom pods • 1/2 each lemon zest Method 1. Place the condensed milk in a large bowl. 2. Bring the water to the boil and pour onto the condensed milk. 3. Crush the cardamom pods and zest the lemon. Add to the milk mixture while it is still very hot. 4. Allow to cool and infuse overnight. Once infused, strain and pour into a shallow dish. Place the dish in the freezer to set hard. Once frozen, scrape the mixture with a fork to create the granita To assembles 1. Roughly chop the walnut praline and cinder toffee and set aside. 2. Pour a tablespoon of saffron honey (we use Balqees honey, but you can easily make your own by finely chopping a few saffron strands and mixing them with your favourite honey) onto the top of the pannacotta. 3. Cover with the chopped praline and cinder toffee (as much as you like). 4. Next, place a generous spoonful of condensed milk granita on the top. 5. To finish, garnish with a teased handful of saffron pashmak. You can find this in most Iranian sweet shops. www.qbara.ae
09/06/2014 17:02
158-165 Bon Appetit.indd 165
09/06/2014 17:02
166
Automotive
01
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 166
09/06/2014 17:00
This season’s range of advanced and impressive automobiles doesn’t disappoint. From the best in the luxury car industry; Maserati, Rolls Royce, Bentley, Ferrari and Lexus show you what they have to offer, with a selection of models that are top of the range in both power and style.
Cutting-Edge Cars
02
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 167
09/06/2014 17:00
168
Automotive
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 168
09/06/2014 17:00
Lexus RC F The new RC F, the latest model in the premium Lexus F range is arriving in Bahrain this November, and will set the standard in high performance vehicles. Seven years ago Lexus unveiled the IS F, a fast, thrilling sports sedan that immediately resonated with drivers because of its superb maneuverability on both the road and the track. The letter F has held special significance among Lexus owners and engineers ever since. Representing the word flagship and referring to the Fuji Speedway, Lexus’s chief test site, the marque is synonymous with speed, precision, innovation and technological progression. The Lexus F project was initiated by one engineer, Yukihiko Yaguchi, who in the early 2000s pursued a personal dream to create a car with driving capabilities he could proudly announce as “the best around”. In 2004, having experimented with automobile parts on his days off, Yaguchi built a prototype, later known as the IS F. The model attracted significant attention, first from other Lexus engineers who would soon join forces with Yaguchi on the project, and then from the brand’s top executives, who recognized the engineer’s personal work as the beginnings of Lexus’s official foray into the high-performance vehicle market. “What drove me to kick-start this project was a simple aim to build a car that would embody Lexus’ ideals,” Yaguchi says. “To that end, we focused our attention on three things: steering response, sound and acceleration – key factors that make the driver feel connected to the car.” Now, a decade after that first prototype was built, Yaguchi and his team have unveiled the RC F, the second model in the Lexus F range. Equipped with a 5.0-liter V8
engine, the RC F, which was revealed at the Detroit Motor Show earlier this year, is an ultra-high-performance coupe that produces 450-plus horsepower. Deemed the most powerful model in the Lexus lineup to date, it also comes with a torque-vectoring differential (TVD), the world’s first engineering feature in a front-engine, rear-wheel-drive vehicle, a system designed to maximize driving pleasure by providing stability, nimble steering response and dynamic circuit performance. “The RC F presented us with a tougher challenge than the IS F,” Yaguchi admits. “We were, of course, under pressure when working on the IS F. But the weight of expectation was far heavier this time, now that we’re in the second chapter of the F legacy. We had to create something much, much better than our previous models to impress. That was tough, to say the least.” Yaguchi is modest, but his efforts have paid off. The RC F’s steering outperforms that of its predecessor, thanks in part to the car’s aerodynamic packaging, its highly sophisticated underbody, its improved fenders and its upgraded suspension. An electronic rear wing – a feature lifted from the LFA – has been built into the trunk lid to be deployed when the car exceeds speeds of 50 mph. The model’s 19-inch alloy wheels and updated spindle grille will appeal to experienced drivers and Lexus newcomers alike. “This car is purpose built for the skill level of all driving enthusiasts, especially with the TVD,” says Yaguchi with a smile. “With this car, you can cruise through town, but you can also have a go on a circuit if you’re into that sort of thing.” www.facebook.com/LexusBahrain
The Lexus F project was initiated by one engineer, Yukihiko Yaguchi, who in the early 2000s pursued a personal dream to create a car with driving capabilities he could proudly announce as “the best around”.
01 The All-New Lexus RC F Performance Coupe Elevates the Driving Experience 02 Carbon fiber roof and active rear spoiler drawn from the LFA production experience 03 The RC F takes design cues from the Lexus LFA supercar
03
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 169
09/06/2014 17:00
170
Automotive
04
Maserati Alfieri An exciting but realistic and 100% functional prototype, the Alfieri says much about the design DNA of future Maseratis. The striking new concept was created at the Maserati Centro Stile in Turin by a small group of talented young designers led by Marco Tencone and masterminded by Lorenzo Ramaciotti. It is a sleek, Italian style 2+2 and clearly affirms Maserati’s racing DNA. Sportier in character than the GranTurismo, the Alfieri boasts proportions that might well be archetypal for a future true sport car. The long, low nose is a stylistic evolution from contemporary Maserati models and the grille is divided vertically into two concave sections that seem to hang in the air. The aggressive headlights incorporate bi-xenonLED bulbs and are rendered distinctive by a characteristic eyebrow, repeated on the twin exhaust tail pipes. The three dimensional candy-cane tail lights are made up of two red external elements with a white element inside. Their shape harmoniously follows the rear shoulder of the car and complements the air ducts underneath to create an impressive, racing style rear view. Though form is the dominant element, colour and detail play a key supporting role. A liquid metal colour called “Steel Flair” has been chosen and gives the Alfieri’s elegant shape a refined, technical and contemporary look. In the 2+2 seat cabin, the design team have created a study in simplicity and minimalism. The suspended dashboard boasts a clean, organic, two-tone design built around a central TUFT screen. The instrument panel has a classic layout with two main clocks with two smaller ones
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 170
in between. Instead of a rotating indicator, the numbers themselves rotate around the clocks. Current speed and RPM are highlighted by a magnifying glass effect. There is even a touch of racing brutality inside the Alfieri. The floor is finished in a material that imitates oxidised steel, a material commonly found on racing cars of the 1950s. Luna white and dark Basalt blue are the dominant colours, and Poltrona Frau aniline leather with a natural look and feel covers the seats, dashboard and central console. Copper subtly highlights the most character lines and brings a retro feeling to an otherwise futuristic environment. The passenger seats, though inspired by the racing bucket seats of the ’50s, have a modern structure with half-integrated headrests and a bridge-like profile that serves as main structural element. Under the sleek body lies the transaxle platform of the Maserati GranTurismo. This 4.7 litre, naturally aspirated, V8 engine from Maranello develops 460 bhp @ 7,000 rpm and 520 Nm @ 4,750 rpm and gives the Alfieri a real driving force. Thanks to a special exhaust layout, this thoroughbred V8 also produces a breathtaking sound that makes a real impression. A six-speed, electro-actuated gearbox (MC Shift) is mounted in a single unit with the limited slip rear differential. The transaxle layout gives the Alfieri an optimized front-rear weight distribution with a slight predominance to the rear axle.
04 With proportions of a true sport car 05 Poltrona frau aniline leather covers the seats, dashboard and central console 06 The instrument panel has a classic layout with two main clocks 07 A liquid metal colour called “steel flair” has been chosen
www.maserati.com
09/06/2014 17:00
05
06 07
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 171
09/06/2014 17:00
172
Automotive
12 15
08 09
For the new S models, the design of the Continental takes a more dramatic direction and its enhanced road presence is clear before a wheel is turned.
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 172
09/06/2014 17:01
Bentley Continental GT V8 S The appeal of the world’s most stylish, luxury grand tourer is enhanced with the introduction of the new, sporting Continental GT V8 S. Available as both a coupe and convertible, the new GT V8 S models bring added excitement to the Continental range with lowered and retuned sports suspension, sharper steering, dramatic S signature styling cues and a distinctive soundtrack from the uprated V8 engine. These two new models expand the Continental family and provide an even more engaging driving experience from Bentley’s already renowned 4-litre twin-turbo V8 powertrain. The new GT V8 S models feature a more powerful version of Bentley’s high-efficiency 4-litre, twinturbo V8 engine, providing effortless, exhilarating high performance with breath-taking acceleration and imperceptibly smooth power delivery. Switch into S mode via the gear selector and the V8 S rewards the spirited driver with a sharpened throttle response while gears are held for longer with faster shifts. The GT V8 S coupe dispatches the 0-100 km sprint in just 4.3 seconds onto a top speed of 309 km/h. The performance of the GT V8 S convertible is equally impressive, reaching 0-100 km from a standing start in 4.5 seconds and a top speed of 308km. While the elegant coachwork of the Continental GT is inspired by iconic Bentleys of the past, its modern, sculpted design, with crisp, highly defined feature lines, is formed using advanced body construction techniques, achieving class-leading standards of quality and body integrity. For the new S models, the design of the
Continental takes a more dramatic direction and its enhanced road presence is clear before a wheel is turned. The lowered suspension provides a more sleek and purposeful stance, complemented by unique, lower-body styling including a sharp front splitter, discrete side sills and subtle rear diffuser finished in Beluga gloss. The black gloss radiator grille with single chrome divider bar and ‘figure of eight’ exhaust tail pipes instantly signify the powerful V8 engine. The signature 20-inch wheels are unique to the S models with an open-spoke design that reveals distinctive, red-painted brake calipers. Subtle ‘V8 S’ badges are applied to each front fender, and as with the other members of the Continental V8 family, the famous Bentley Wings badges feature a red centre. The cabin of the Continental GT is renowned for its supreme luxury with soft-touch leathers, wood veneers, polished metals and deep-pile carpeting, hand-crafted in Bentley’s unrivalled workshops at the factory in Crewe, England. The cabin of the S models presents a thoroughly modern interpretation of Bentley luxury in which colour and tone offer further appeal to the senses. Knurled chrome detailing to the gearshift lever and ventilation controls provide a perfect contrast to the Piano Black veneers which are sanded and lacquered up to 18 times to produce a truly flawless finish. Discreet ‘V8 S’ badges are displayed on each sill tread plate.
08 The model features a more powerful high-efficiency 4-litre twin- turbo V8 engine 09 The coupe version of the Continental Gt V8 S 10 The interior is covered in luxury soft-touch leathers with wood veneers 11 Chrome detailing on the gearshift lever and ventilation controls
www.bentleybahrain.com.bh
10 11
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 173
09/06/2014 17:01
174
Automotive
12 13
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 174
09/06/2014 17:01
12 The interior leather has been treated to enhance its natural beauty 13 The sleek, Pininfarina-penned super model profile 14 With a patented four- wheel drive system 50% the weight of a traditional version 15 The FF is the first and only V12 in the world with a sevenspeed dual- clutch F1 gearbox, with a 20% increase in power
14 15
Ferrari FF The FF: the Ferrari Four. Four as in four-wheel drive. Four as in the four comfortable seats that cocoon driver and occupants alike. A four-seater that utterly changes the whole GT sports car concept, hailing nothing short of a revolution in the automotive world. Even the most cursory glance at the FF’s sleek, Pininfarina-penned super model profile will tell you that. Drive it, anywhere, anytime, in any weather or road conditions – and you’ll know why it’s so radical. It may be a car that has elegance, beauty and art in its soul, but there’s much, much more to the FF than sophisticated allure. It was, in fact, designed specifically to tackle the toughest, most complex and ambitious of driving challenges effortlessly, regardless of weather or surface. Purists will be overjoyed to know that it is still the rear wheels that actually provide the power, with torque being transferred only to the front axle when required and even then intelligently and predicatively distributed to all four wheels. Yet another reason why this is the most versatile Ferrari ever built. But take note: the FF is also the most exclusive GT on the market, the very pinnacle of achievement in the “extreme GT” segment, the most powerful fourseater in the world. It has it all: exceptional, classtopping performance that pushes its signature Ferrari thoroughbred DNA and driving pleasure to the utmost, regardless of weather or terrain. The FF also sets a new benchmark in terms of sheer innovation: it is the first four-wheel drive V12 with a rear-mounted electronic differential, the E-Diff. The Ferrari-patented four-wheel
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 175
drive system is unique and is also integrated with the new generation F1-Trac traction control developed specifically for the track. The FF is also the first and only V12 in the world to sport a seven- speed dualclutch F1 gearbox and it boasts a 20% increase in power. The FF offers four occupants superb comfort with body-hugging seats and absolutely unprecedented cabin and luggage space for a car in its category. Unparalleled chassis engineering gives authentic sports car dynamics, with powerful brakes and an uncompromising suspension set-up. It also boasts the best weight-power ratio ever achieved, thanks in part to the fact that its patented four- wheel drive system is just 50% the weight of a traditional version. Stylewise, the FF is sculptural yet streamlined: it has an innovative shooting brake shape, modern styling cues, and third millennium aerodynamic and conceptual solutions to underscore its sporty stance. It is also unique on several levels: for instance, special exterior colours were specifically designed for the FF and the leather that adorns the interior has been subject to an innovative treatment to enhance its natural beauty. The FF is tailored to perfection to suit the exclusive style of its owner. It’s as much a car for day-to-day driving as it is for extraordinarily unique occasions. A car you can drive alone or share on a road trip with three other occupants. A car to take it easy in or really push to the limits. A Ferrari that demands to be driven. A Ferrari to test your skills in. A dream car. www.ferrari.com
09/06/2014 17:01
176
Automotive
16
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 176
09/06/2014 17:01
Rolls Royce Wraith Wraith debuts the most intelligent drive train ever to feature in a Rolls-Royce, including the application of ground-breaking technologies like Satellite Aided Transmission (SAT). This processes GPS data to predict the driver’s next move and automatically select the right gear for the road ahead, ensuring Wraith is constantly poised to deliver on its dynamic promise. Step inside Wraith’s coach doors and there is the feeling of going aboard a luxury yacht. It is a serene space for four occupants, who will be cocooned in a striking and contemporary interior furnished in beautiful materials, surrounded by tactile Phantom-grade leathers. In profile, it is the fastback that most clearly sets this latest Rolls-Royce design apart from its thoroughbred stable mates. There is a dramatic combination of linear tension and expressive line that bestows Wraith with such an elegant yet uniquely powerful character. The motor cars produced by Rolls Royce are defined by the materials and craftsmanship employed in their construction. This obsessive dedication to the pursuit of perfection is what sets them apart and is evident in abundance at the brand’s Woodshop. At the Woodshop, the process begins with the substrate part and the creation of the initial shape and structure of the piece; it’s to this base that the fine veneer will be applied to. These initial steps take place in the Pressing and Milling area. Individual shapes are cut from layers of glue sheet, tulip (poplar wood) and aluminium. The aluminium layers provide structural rigidity, temperature resistance and laminate the part to stop splintering and cracking.
They are then layered on top of each other and pressed for six minutes. 150 degrees of heat is applied to melt and bond the layers together. This meticulous process is repeated for every part required in a car. The next stage begins with milling and the removal of any excess material. The piece is then filled and sanded to create a seamlessly smooth surface to which the veneer can be applied. To ensure there are no imperfections or air bubbles the parts are placed into a membrane press. After cleaning, the excess veneer is trimmed off and repairs are made to any damaged sections. The next stage, the Lacquering process, begins with sealing the part using a spray application to seal the grain and allow the lacquer to bond strongly to the veneer when applied. A highly skilled team of touch specialists then review the parts and blend any areas of the grain that have been filled to disguise the filling and replicate the veneer lines. The part will be sent for lacquering where a 1mm to 2mm thick layer of lacquer is applied and left to dry. The part will then make its penultimate journey to the Sanding and Polishing area. Here the parts will be belt and hand sanded before a final finesses and polish. The last stage is the final finish milling process which qualifies the parts to a known size. Any excess lacquer is removed and all button and switch holes are milled. In Wraith’s design, every detail has been considered. www.rolls-roycemotorcars-bahrain.bh
16 The contemporary interior feels similar to going aboard a luxury yacht 17 The fastback profile most clearly sets this latest model apart from the rest
17
166-177.Automotive - Cars.indd 177
09/06/2014 17:01
178
Must Have
My Wish List
Roland Iten, ‘The Driver’ belt buckle collection Roland Iten, creator of mechanically sophisticated accessories for gentlemen, is a main sponsor of the Mille Miglia 2014. As a tribute to this iconic Italian road race, the Swiss inventor has issued limited edition high-precision belt buckles, designed and crafted using the same state-of-the-art machinery as used in Swiss watch-making. The Mille Miglia commemorative R8 MKII buckle ‘The Driver’ collection includes four pieces crafted in gold, titanium and steel. Each is engraved with the name of one of the main cities on the Mille Miglia 2014 route – Brescia, Padova, Roma or Bologna – in effect making each exclusive buckle a unique piece. www.rolaniten.com
The latest and most exclusive luxury items
178-181 Must-have.indd 178
09/06/2014 17:03
Designer Shaik Travel Jet Set The full range of luxurious Shaik Perfume Creations are now available in 30ml travel sizes making it more convenient to transport your favourite scent, wherever it may be. These delightful miniatures are the perfect accessory for the world traveller and complement Designer Shaik Limited Edition accessories beautifully. This set is an addition to the brand’s award winning collection of fragrances for men and women. The travel set of fragrances don’t lose their sense of luxury and are still packaged in signature Designer Shaik style. www.shaik.net
La Maison du Chocolat Ramadan and Eid Gift Box Creator of legendary deluxe chocolates La Maison du Chocolat is marking its first Ramadan in the Middle East with an offering of its signature range of ganaches and pralines presented in a beautiful gift box decorated with exquisite fabric. Available in various sizes, the special occasion gift box is filled with the delicious chocolates that the Maison is acclaimed for. Using only the finest quality ingredients, La Maison du Chocolat has been innovating and paving the way for craftsmanship and gourmet excellence since 1977 and has been present in the Middle East since November 2013, with its first regional boutique in The Dubai Mall. www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/en
178-181 Must-have.indd 179
09/06/2014 17:03
180
Must Have
Vertu Special Edition Constellation Luxury mobile phone leader Vertu has launched two seasonal special edition Constellation handsets; Pure Navy Alligator and Pure Plum Alligator. A single piece of deep blue or rich plum alligator leather encases the back of the phone, while a sapphire crystal screen, which can only be scratched by diamond, protects the 4.3-inch HD touch-screen on the front. This is complemented by a colour-coded chassis and nano-SIM drawer, engineered from hard-coated, grade-5 titanium which provides extraordinary strength and durability. As with every Vertu mobile phone, each Constellation is handmade in England by a single craftsman. On completion, the signature of the craftsman who assembled the handset is engraved on the inside of the phone as a mark of quality, pride and assurance. www.vertu.com
Lalique Crystal Architecture by Zaha Hadid French glasswear design house Lalique has asked Zaha Hadid to design the Crystal Architecture collection, which is composed of two vases. The collection was born of a passion for beauty, the search for excellence, and the will to combine the expertise of a master glassmaker with the great creativity of a world-famous architect and designer. The innate fluid lines of the vases seem to have a life of their own and are superbly highlighted by clear or black crystal. Through these exceptional masterpieces in a signed and numbered edition, Lalique presents a fresh approach to its material, a new formal vocabulary, a new vision. www.lalique.com
178-181 Must-have.indd 180
09/06/2014 17:03
Aquariva Lamp Quality design has always been the distinctive element that makes Riva boats recognisable and unique. Now the brand has decided to undertake a new venture, exploring different sectors such as the home experience. The Aquariva table lamp is the brand’s first product in this sector, and was inspired by the classic ‘searching light’ of 1960s boats. It was designed by Mauro Micheli of Officina Italiana Design, who designs all the Riva range of boats. The stem is available in mambo or mahogany, two characteristic materials used on the vessels, while the base, made of three overlaid sections of steel, recalls the famous bow of the Aquarama and Aquariva motorboats, and once opened recalls a boat’s propeller. www.riva-yacht.com
Tory Burch Alligator Bag During Tory Burch’s recent visit to Dubai, the designer was inspired by the chic and sophisticated women she met and introduces a limited edition handbag collection, exquisitely crafted in genuine alligator. Featuring the Robinson Envelope Clutch and Double Zip Tote, the collection is handmade by Italian artisans outside of Florence; each piece reflects the expert workmanship of five people and requires eight hours to create. Designed with the stylish Middle Eastern woman in mind, the handbags are distinguished by luxurious textures, solid brass fittings and saturated colours. The signature styles are available in four rich tones - Tiger Lily, Fuchsia, Emerald and Ultramarine - inspired by natural elements found around the world. www.toryburch.com
Amouage Opus VIII Amouage’s eighth volume in the Library Collection, Opus VIII, is an evocative scent crafted with the perfume connoisseur in mind, irrespective of age or gender. The woody, floral fragrance composed by Creative Director Christopher Chong, comprises of the finest ingredients sourced from around the world. Jasmine Sambac from India serenely fuses with Ylang Ylang from the Comoros and Orange Flower from Morocco to reveal a golden aura in the top notes. The white bottle with specks of gold represents the enlightening aura of the fragrance. The tome-shaped box is a black and white floral Toile de Jouy, with an indentation of the bottle creating a Trompe L’oeilillusion. www.amouage.com
178-181 Must-have.indd 181
09/06/2014 17:03
182
Book Review
182-186 Book Review - Armour.indd 182
09/06/2014 17:04
Islamic and Oriental Arms and Armour: A Lifetime’s Passion
Over forty years of experience and scholarship has been invested into Robert Hales’ publication ‘Islamic and Oriental Arms and Armour: A Lifetime’s Passion’. A recognised authority, Hales is the first to document the range and breadth of this extraordinary field and is enthusiastically welcomed. As his life-long friend and fellow-enthusiast for antique weapons, Jonathan Barrett, says in his foreword, “Bob was fortunate to have been active during a period of relatively plentiful supply; a time that we are unlikely to see again”.
R 02
182-186 Book Review - Armour.indd 183
ightly subtitled ‘A Lifetime’s Passion’, Robert Hales bought his first antique weapon in Kabul in 1966 when, at the age of 21, he travelled overland to Nepal through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan through India to Kathmandu, where he also acquired antiques from Tibetan refugees. By the time he returned to London, travelling south through Baluchistan, Southern Iran and on to the Middle East, Jerusalem and Petra, his course was set. Abandoning a fledgling career as a microbiologist, Hales’ passion for antique arms took over his life and he became a highly respected dealer with a gallery in London for 27 years. He continued to travel widely, from Morocco to Egypt and later to the Far East where he began a love affair with Indonesia and for the kris (an asymmetrical dagger with a distinctive wavy blade). The 400 page book is divided into four sections: daggers; swords; firearms; and armour, with the occasional transgression and a useful glossary of terms.
09/06/2014 17:04
184
Book Review
It contains weapons from a vast area and includes a wide range of styles. Many were never used in anger but were primarily worn to show the wealth and status of the owner. The skilled master craftsman from the court workshop, with access to the most expensive and precious materials, inevitably produced some of the most exquisite examples of Islamic and Oriental art. Hales kept a photographic record of many of the weapons that passed through his hands, resulting in a rich and extensive archive. Thom Richardson, Royal Armouries’ Keeper of Armour and Oriental Collections, Leeds, said, “As a source of images of the finest Asian weapons, this book is unrivalled and will be an indispensable resource for anyone interested in the subject in the future”. Daggers, which can be objects of great beauty, form the largest category in the book. The subtle elegance of the sinuous khanjarli, the chiselled steel peshkabz and the all-steel Indian dagger contrast with the richly decorated jewel-encrusted examples. A few were made with jade hilts that were popular in Turkey, Iran and particularly in Mughal India, and many of the finest examples were inlaid with precious stones while others were beautifully carved with animalhead pommels, often taking months or even years to complete. Novelty weapons with little or no practical use were produced, and concealed daggers are another interesting group. Some weapons are also notable for the magical properties ascribed to them, for example the Burmese dha and the Indonesian kris. Ivory dha hilts are elaborately carved with demonic figures and
animals conferring protection upon the owner. The kris differs greatly from other forms of dagger, with multilayered pamor blades and hilts which were usually intricately carved. They were frequently family heirlooms thought to possess special powers, and believed to bring good fortune in trade, love or war. Early Islamic swords invariably had straight blades, a style that persists today in most of Oman and the Yemen, the Sudan, Tibet and Southern India. The curved sabre blade developed later as a more effective cutting weapon when used by a mounted warrior. The most common example is the shamshir, found across the Ottoman Empire, Iran and through to India. These were worn suspended with the concave side upwards and were drawn underarm, unlike the Russian shasqua which was suspended with the convex side uppermost and was drawn overarm. Other swords developed for specific purposes include the cutlass with its short curved blade, mainly designed for use on board ship in a confined space. This contrasts with the long and heavy Indian firangi and khanda which have straight blades. However, in some peaceful and stable regions such as Sri Lanka, swords evolved into status symbols. Swords of high value, often elaborately decorated, were used as presentation pieces and diplomatic gifts such as the gem-set Turkish kilij with an inlaid jade hilt reputedly presented to Tsar Nicholas II by the Turkish Sultan Abdul Hamid II. Another example is the Indian sword presented by Lord Hardinge (Governor-General of India) to the brilliant Admiral FitzRoy who, as a young man aged 26, commanded HMS Beagle during Darwin’s famous voyage.
Early Islamic swords invariably had straight blades, a style that persists today in most of Oman and the Yemen, the Sudan, Tibet and Southern India.
03
182-186 Book Review - Armour.indd 184
09/06/2014 17:04
01 Turkish kilij with a curved ‘T’ section blade. The 17th century Indian hilt is inlaid with jade leaves and flowers and further embellished in the 19th century with clusters of rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Reputedly presented to Tsar Nicholas II by the Turkish Sultan Abdul Hamid II
Guns were first introduced into Turkey from Europe during the 16th century. The simple matchlock gun spread along the coastal regions of Asia largely due to the activities of the seafaring Portuguese, extending as far as Malaysia and Japan and remained virtually unchanged from the Portuguese 16th-century prototype until the 19th century. In the Indian subcontinent, matchlocks were used well into the 19th century. Pistols and long guns with miquelet locks (a type of flintlock) spread throughout the Ottoman Empire from the middle of the 17th century and remained largely unchanged for over two hundred years. Combination weapons were produced in Turkey such as the double-barrelled flintlock pistol fitted with a silver dagger handle containing a concealed stiletto blade. From the mid 18th until the early 19th centuries, a series of highly decorated silverand coral-mounted guns and pistols were made in Algeria under Ottoman rule. Some were presented as diplomatic gifts mostly by the Deys (rulers) and Beys (governors) of Algiers, frequently seen as a base for piracy and the slave trade, including one given to George Washington. Several were presented to the British Royal Family and are now in the Royal Collection at Windsor Castle. The apogee of Ottoman gun-making occurred in the 18th century, when the most ornate guns of the highest quality were produced. The guns that belonged to the great Indian hero Tipu Sultan are particularly evocative. After several successful engagements against the British he was finally killed at Seringapatam in 1799. His emblem was the tiger and its stripes (bubris), which decorate most of his firearms; the finest gun owned
02 Cover of Islamic and Oriental Arms and Armour 03 Indian sword shamshir with Iranian watered steel blade. The silver hilt is decorated with enamel and set with clusters of diamonds and emeralds. From North India, Rajasthan, 18th-19th century 04 Indian jambiya in the Arabian style. The gold hilt and sheath are decorated with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. From India, 19th century. Formerly in the collection of the Nizam of Hyderabad
04
182-186 Book Review - Armour.indd 185
09/06/2014 17:04
186
Book Review
by him is one of the great works illustrated in this handsome publication. Oriental armour differs greatly from its European counterpart. In a hot climate lighter mail and fabric were more suitable than heavier plate armour, although metal was used to make body plates, arm guards and helmets. The earliest mail shirts were made from lines of riveted links, sometimes with additional solid links to provide greater strength. Later mail had butted links, often with attractive patterns formed by the contrasting links of brass or copper against the steel. During the 18th and 19th centuries the decorative hazar-mukhi (‘thousand nail’) technique, whereby tiny copper pins with gilt heads were used in decorative patterns to secure fabric, usually velvet, on armour or shields, was predominantly employed in Rajasthan and other regions of India. This technique dates back to an earlier period and was used in Turkey, Iran and Egypt. In the Philippines, the Moros made armour from brass or buffalo horn plates held together by heavy brass butted links. The most extraordinary survivals are the
800-year-old re-curved bows, leather armour and mangonel sling from the period of the great Muslim warrior Salah al-Din. Shields made from spirals of withies (usually willow or fig) or cane, bound with silk, wool or rattan, were used from Turkey to India from the 15th to 17th centuries. Dome-shaped examples carried by Scythian guardsmen of the Persian kings 2,300 years ago can still be seen on the great staircase at Persepolis, and in Tibet and Bhutan they were still made and used up until the 19th century. ‘Islamic and Oriental Arms and Armour: A Lifetime’s Passion’ is the most comprehensive reference work to be published since George Cameron Stone’s A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms and Armor: in All Countries and in All Times in 1934. Donald J. LaRocca, Curator, Department of Arms and Armor at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, said, “Every collector, dealer, and curator will want to have this book and will consult it again and again”.
05 Pair of Algerian coral-inlaid flintlock holster pistols. The barrels are inlaid with engraved silver en suite with the locks and the stocks are almost entirely covered with shaped red corals, retained by a cagework of engraved silver. The pistols are fitted with silver furniture and pierced barrel bands. Late 18th century
www.roberthales.co.uk
05
182-186 Book Review - Armour.indd 186
09/06/2014 17:04
THE EXCEPTIONAL BECOMES EXTRAORDINARY
LexuS LS460 F Sport When passion runs this deep, the only choice is to follow where it leads. Inspired by the world-renowned Lexus LFA supercar, the LS F SPORT is engineered to drive your hunger for exhilarating performance even further with exclusive features such as the Limited- slip Rear Differential, the Brembo Brakes and the Low Center of Gravity. The LS models are available today at the Lexus Showroom with an exclusive Free 1 year / 20,000 km service package.
LexusBahrain
LexusBahrain
LexusBahrain
Lexus Showroom - Sitra 17 737 773 www.lexus.com.bh 187-187 Lexus.indd 1
09/06/2014 17:05
000-000 1 188-188 Lavazza_clup_FPA_FA.indd Lavazza.indd 188
5/21/14 2:48 PM 09/06/2014 17:05
Final Pearl
Les Voiles de Saint-Barth 2014
I
t was five years ago that Les Voiles de Saint-Barth event was created. A clear concept, an exceptional setting, a serious organizer, and all the racers coming from around the world have done the rest. Year after year, the reputation has spread by word of mouth as they have encouraged their fellow sailors to come and share in the joys of yachting around the waters of a pearl in the Caribbean, Saint-Barth. With each edition, the number of boats has continued to grow, but it’s not just the quantity, as the quality of the line-up has also strengthened with the involvement of some of the leading lights from the world of international sailing from Ken Read to Loïck Peyron, Peter Holmberg, Jim Swartz, and Gavin Brady. This year the event finished Saturday, April 19 and in its five years, the race has never known such extreme sailing conditions which offered an extraordinary spectacle. 70 of the Caribbean’s most beautiful yachts and their crews set their bearings for the port of Gustavia in Saint Barth for this sporting and festive event, among one of the most anticipated in the region. Following light and technically challenging winds on Tuesday and Wednesday, the last two days of the race were livened up by a warm twenty-five knot wind with strong gusts which even saw one yacht losing its mast. The American, Alex Schaerer on the Mills 69 Caol
189-189 Final Word.indd 1
Ila R carried the day in the Maxi class after two days of tense competition with the formidable Rambler 90 of George David. “We had a good start of the regatta as our strength versus Bella Mente is in calm weather thanks to our difference in draught and we lead two to one in light winds. Unfortunately, their mast broke, depriving us of a confrontation in a strong breeze. I think it would have been difficult to beat them twice to win”, recognized the skipper of Caol Ila R. “Their strength is reaching in a hard blow where we don’t perform as well. It was a great and very exciting week in any case.” Alex Shaerer won in the most prestigious category of the event beating Georges David and Verder Van Nieuwland with the Marten 72 Aragon. Winner of this edition, the American owner and skipper was awarded a Richard Mille RM 028 Edition ‘Voiles de Saint Barth’ in titanium at the prize-giving ceremony. The automatic caliber was perfectly adapted to the yacht racingaccording to the Jura maison. The cosmopolitan gathering in the warm atmosphere of the island worked its magic, and the ability to share sailing experiences both at sea and ashore, is one of the elements that make the Voiles what it is for the 600 sailors representing around twenty different nationalities. www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com
09/06/2014 17:06
2014/482 - Durrah magazine June / BJc - 170Eri - 560 x 300 mm - Bahre誰n - 08/05/14
190-190 Chopard.indd 190
09/06/2014 17:06
LIFE IS A SMILE H a p p y S p o r t a u t o m at i c