volume 06 Issue 01 AUTUMN 2013
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Contents
TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE WATCH THAT BROKE ALL THE RULES, REBORN FOR 2012. IN 1972, THE ORIGINAL ROYAL OAK SHOCKED THE WATCHMAKING WORLD AS THE FIRST HAUTE HOROLOGY SPORTS WATCH TO TREAT STEEL AS A PRECIOUS METAL. TODAY THE NEW ROYAL OAK COLLECTION STAYS TRUE TO THE SAME PRINCIPLES SET OUT IN LE BRASSUS ALL THOSE YEARS AGO: “BODY OF STEEL, HEART OF GOLD”. OVER 130 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL CRAFT, MASTERY AND EXQUISITE DETAILING LIE INSIDE THIS ICONIC MODERN EXTERIOR; THE ALWAYS PURPOSEFUL ROYAL OAK ARCHITECTURE NOW EXPRESSED IN 41MM DIAMETER. THE AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK: CELEBRATING 40 YEARS.
ROYAL OAK IN STAINLESS STEEL. CHRONOGRAPH.
Haute Joaillerie, place Vend么me since 1906
MODA MALL +973 13 11 22 www.vancleefarpels.com
Fascinating Zip Necklace, transformable into a bracelet, coloured sapphires and diamonds.
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Contents Editorial Editor in Chief Khalid Ahmed Juman Features Editor Laura Templeton Art Art Director Geir C. Erdal Marketing and Sales Advertising Coordinator Muhannad Kowatin Hussain Al Zaimoor Production Production Support Thomas Kuttiyil IT support Digital Manager Hussain Al Anjawi
Volume 06 Issue 01 Autumn 2013
Published by
PO Box 10013, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain T. +973 77022222 F. +973 77022221
008 First Impression Word from Durrah’s Editor-in-Chief
010 Egg Evolution One-of-a-kind collectors’ pieces from Fabergé
016 Jewels from the Gulf Bahrain based Al Zain Jewellery shines
020 A New Shine Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée collection is now in yellow gold
024 Mystery of the Marie Antoinette A key moment in the history of Breguet watches
032 Perfect Perfumes Jovoy focuses on finding the perfect scent for each customer
038 The Philosophy of Fate ‘Fate’ is the latest offering from luxury perfume brand Amouage
044 Back to Basics Balenciaga’s latest collection pays tribute to the archives of the iconic brand
048 Pearls of Wisdom The history of pearls will be explored in a new exhibition at London’s V&A
052 Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience The Dubai Mall hosts Vogue Fashion Experience this October
058 Longing for Mecca The Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic art on display in the Netherlands
068 Art brought to Life C.G.SCHÜBEL’s visual masterpieces are like nothing seen before
076 Customised Creations Personalise your Ferrari with the new TailorMade programme
082 Fashion Indulgence Some of the finest boutiques to open across the globe
094 Lose Yourself in Paris
volume 06 Issue 01 WINTER 2013
The city that offers some of the greatest in culture, food, art and design
BD 3.5 Sr 35 DHS 35 KD 2.50 US$ 10
102 Holiday Havens Durrah will ensure your next holiday stay is one to remember
116 Seeking Serenity Treat yourself to the ultimate in rejuvenation
122 140 years at the front Benetti celebrates their 140th anniversary
130 Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge welcomes Naples The PCYC welcomes new host city Naples
136 The Goodwood Festival of Speed The world’s most popular motor sport event took place from 11-14 July
142 Treasures for the Tabletop Mariano Fortuny designs are revisited by L’objet
146 Dining at its finest The most enticing new dining destinations around the world
160 Italian Inspiration
Cover Image The rising star in the twilight by C.G.SCHÜBEL (1.35 x 1.39m)
DURRAH is a quarterly premium lifestyle magazine published by Miracle Publishing. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. No part of this publication or any other part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publisher in writing. While every effort has been made towards factual correctness, the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors of omission or statements made within the publication. The publisher also rejects any claims arising from any action, which a company or individual may take upon the basis of content contained therein. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher.
Chef Cavagnini shares recipes from the Four Seasons’ Amaranto
166 Automotive Opulence An exciting new selection of offers from luxury car brands
180 My Wish List The latest and most sought after luxury items
ISSN 2210-1322
186 Before They Pass Away Jimmy Nelson photographs the world’s last tribesman
194 Final Pearl This winter is Bahrain International Design Week
www.durrah.bh e.mail: info@durrah.bh T. +973 77022222
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Welcome
First Impression A word from the editor-in-chief
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his edition of Durrah marks a very special occasion, as we celebrate our fifth anniversary. When we embarked on the journey of beginning this publication we were ambitious in our goals, but ultimately had no idea of the potential that we could reach. Over the past five years Durrah has accomplished a number of impressive feats, most importantly bringing Bahrain into the international spotlight and achieving recognition worldwide from a number of leading brands and companies we have had the privilege to work with. We take this time to present to you the new look for the magazine, as a way of celebrating our growth and innovation. In order to thrive we must change and develop, which is why we have subtly redesigned the magazine to give it a fresh and original look that we hope you will enjoy. Through hard work and immense dedication, Durrah has time and time again been able to bring to you the finest selection of architecture, jewellery, VIP interviews, art and culture, fashion, yachting and travel. All of this could not be possible without the continuing support and recognition of our clients, who have shown their faith in Durrah, knowing that together we can produce the best and most informative luxury publication. Brands such as Hublot, Brietling and Ferrari, have given us the chance to experience firsthand what their incredible business has to offer, which as a result we are able to share with you. Hotels such as the Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons and Shangri-La, have embraced the magazine and given Durrah pride of place in their suites for VIP guests to enjoy.
Nothing makes us more proud when a luxury five-star hotel tells us they love the magazine, and looks forward to our quarterly issues; then we know we have done what we set out to achieve. By working closely with these partners, Durrah has made a name for itself amongst the leading luxury brands and become part of an exclusive global community, joined by our valued readers. Of course it is not just our international partners that deserve recognition; our local support provides the fundamental backbone of what we represent. We thank all the local artists, designers and entrepreneurs for their endless support and contribution to the magazine, proving Bahrain has a multitude of local talent. We have also been fortunate enough to cover and share a number of inspiring Royal interviews and events over the years. For our special fifth anniversary edition we have put together a truly wonderful selection of some of the world’s finest locations, automobiles and products, and spoke with renowned artists, photographers and perfume connoisseurs. One of these is British photographer Jimmy Nelson, who shares a selection of his breathtaking images taken over three years, of some of the last tribes in the world. C.G Schubel is another international artist whose large scale paintings showcase talent like you’ve never seen. We know you will enjoy the beauty, skill and emotion that their work has captured. What better city to feature for Durrah’s fifth anniversary than Paris, home to the best range of art, cuisine, history and design; things that we celebrate in every issue, and are a perfect
representation of the essence of Durrah. The Dubai Mall is the epicentre of luxury in the Middle East, and we are thrilled this issue to cover one of their upcoming events – the Vogue Dubai Fashion Experience. W Motors is another new and exciting business creating some of the most elite, exclusive hypercars to ever be seen on the market. Be sure to come and visit our stall at the Bahrain Design Week running from 3rd - 5th December at the Bahrain International Convention and Exhibitions Centre. There will be a number of surprises in store, with top luxury items on display and a retrospective of key moments in our history, as well as our favourite past issues on display. With every edition of Durrah we strive to bring you the best and most timely articles, products and events. It is the continued support of our readership that has motivated us to come so far, and for that we thank you. Our vision for the future sees us only pushing further, especially in the realm of technological advances – a taste of which you will experience in our special cover this month. Be sure to stay tuned for the many great things to come, as we continue to develop and set the standard for luxury in Bahrain.
Khalid Ahmed Juman Editor in Chief
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Jewellery
The spectacular Easter Eggs created by Peter Carl Fabergé between 1885 and 1917 are the most celebrated and awe-inspiring of all Fabergé works of art, inextricably linked to the Fabergé name and legend. Today the Fabergé egg tradition has been kept alive with the Les Fameux collection, made up of precious one-of-a-kind collector’s pieces that have become known as masterpieces of modern jewellery design.
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The first iconic Fabergé Egg was created in 1885, when Tsar Alexander III of the Russian Imperial Family commissioned Fabergé to produce a jewelled Easter Egg as a surprise for his wife, the Empress Maria Fedorovna. The idea was rooted in the centuries-old custom of bringing hand-coloured eggs to Church on Easter Day to be blessed, and then presented to friends and family. As this custom had evolved over the years, lavish and jewelled gifts were traditionally exchanged at Easter amongst the highest echelons of St Petersburg society. The tradition for the Fabergé Eggs continued until 1917, when Nicholas II presented one to both his mother and his wife Alexandra, generating some of the most opulent, captivating and compelling gifts the world has seen. Each of the eggs was designed with a specific theme, layered with personal and cultural references and handcrafted with breathtaking finesse and complexity. Nearly a century later, Fabergé pays homage to the legendary Imperial Eggs, with a collection of one-of-a-kind couture egg pendants, collectively named ‘Les Fameux de Fabergé’. The first creations
of the collection were originally launched for Paris Couture Week July 2011, and marked the beginning of a series of twelve one-off high jewellery egg pendants. The twelve egg pendants were created to coincide with the twelve months of the year, and each is unique and based on a theme inspired by an old Russian proverb. Some of the original eggs include the Ribbon Egg; a jeweled and enameled pendant adorned with a delicate diamond-fringed bow, the Cherry Egg; clustered with luscious cherries in carved stones and gems, with a hidden golden nut and pit inside, the Snake Egg; a serpent curled around a glossy enamelled egg, re-interpreting a favourite Fabergé symbol of eternity and rebirth, and the impressive Diamond Egg; a titanium egg, entirely invisibly-set with white diamonds – a feat that the company says has never been achieved. The most recent additions to the collection include the Roses Egg and the Tree of Life Egg. The Roses Egg is a celebration of the roses treasured by Catherine the Great in her gardens at Tsarskoye Selo, and features white diamonds, red spinels, pink sapphires, rubies and
Egg Evolution
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Jewellery
01 Coloured gemstone eggs from Les Favorites collection 02 Zenaide Emerald Egg Pendant 03 The Roses Egg 04 Zenaide Ruby Egg Pendant 05 Faberge store, 173 New Bond Street, 1910 (Courtesy of Fersman Museum) 06 The Tree of Life Egg
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emeralds set in white gold, platinum and silver. The egg is suspended from an elegant necklace of rubellite beads and a ribbon of diamonds. The Tree of Life pendant is dominated by luscious green emeralds and white diamonds, interspersed with carved green leaves of jade, 02 alluding to the 19th century Russian fairytale The Singing Tree and The Talking Bird. Made using the heritage listed ‘Blanc Limoges technique’, the Art Nouveau style masterpiece took more than 600 hours and over 12 months to complete, and was purchased before its official launch. Each egg pendant involves a lengthy, exacting and in many cases pioneering fabrication process, pushing boundaries of both design and manufacture, and taking contemporary craftsmanship to a new level of sophistication. In addition to the Les Fameux collection, Fabergé has also released the Les Favorites collection; smaller egg pendants that exist in limited edition and are available to purchase currently. The exuberant set features over 60 different designs, crafted with a number of different techniques, styles and materials. Fabergé will also work on private, personal commissions incorporating personal references, meanings and messages, just as the Imperial Easter Eggs were created as personal gifts from one family member to another. Sarah Fabergé, great granddaughter of Peter Carl Fabergé and a member of the Fabergé Heritage Council, said, “The Fabergé Egg is one of the most iconic and emotive objects in history, and is inextricably associated with the story and genius of my great grandfather’s works of art. When it comes to Fabergé and the egg, it is hard to think of one without the other.” www.faberge.com
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Each egg pendant involves a lengthy, exacting and in many cases pioneering fabrication process, pushing boundaries of both design and manufacture.
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design a n d technology.
radiomir 8 days ceramica (ref. 384)
Manama: Asia Jewellers, Sheraton Complex, +973 1 753 4444
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Jewellery
Bahrain based Al Zain Jewellery is known as being an icon for luxury jewellery in the Middle East, through their dedication to excellence in both design and production. Not limited to the gulf region alone, the brand has established its name internationally, as well as through various exhibitions and showcases – ranging from the United States to Europe and the Middle East.
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n pursuit of creating jewellery that is exquisite, intricate and breathtaking; for generations Al Zain has employed skilled artisans, who bring in a priceless combination of design and unrivaled craftsmanship to each unique high jewellery piece. Their ambitions have led the company to participate in international competitions, and win several awards for excellence in design, creativity and craftsmanship. Valuing above all the relationships and human connections that bring meaning to people’s lives; since 1930 Al Zain has mastered the artifice and crafting of special pieces of jewellery, as a way of sharing and celebrating those intimate landmark moments. In 1930, the family tradition of handcrafting jewellery started to take form by Hasan Al Zain who was a pearl merchant at the time. Following several pearl dealings and a huge potential for growth, it had fallen upon Abdulla Al Zain to play a major role in the founding of Al Zain Jewellery. He bought personally selected diamond items from Italy, while simultaneously travelling to Europe to select various precious stones.
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All diamonds are graded by the 4 C’s, Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat, and are accompanied by an internationally acknowledged diamond-grading report.
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01 Rose-cut diamonds and natural pearl necklace 02 Diamonds, White Gold, Emerald stone necklace: 37.740 ct 03 Al Zain brings meticulous attention to detail to every jewellery piece crafted 04 GIA certified gemologists ensure that the finest diamonds are carefully selected 05 Diamond Maharajah earrings 06 Diamonds, White Gold, Ruby stone necklace: 37.750 ct
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The family soon opened their first workshop, followed by a factory where they started manufacturing signature diamond jewellery including tailored designs for clientele, who wished to create something special for themselves and their loved ones. Having taken charge of the company, Nabeel Al Zain has been dedicated to opening several boutique stores in the region - resulting in both international recognition and an undisputed reputation amongst clientele. Al Zain Jewellery has for generations passed down the reigns of the business through the family, while ensuring that the traditional values of craftsmanship, authenticity and luxury in design are continued each step of the way. The team of expert GIA certified gemologists ensure that the finest diamonds and precious stones are carefully selected from across the globe, to then be crafted into the distinct and one-of-a-kind designs. All diamonds are graded by the 4 C’s, Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat, and are accompanied by an internationally acknowledged diamond-grading report. In addition to working with gemstones; Al Zain has goldsmiths that handle 21 karat gold, with the highest standard of skill. The gold is crafted using Bahrain’s traditional goldsmith practices, yet given new life through its transformation into contemporary high jewellery pieces, which cater to present day clientele. Al Zain brings meticulous attention to detail and artistic vision to every individual jewellery piece crafted, with the knowledge that each gem requires its own special treatment.
The emeralds that are chosen are amongst the most revered and expensive of all gemstones, exhibiting the most beautiful, intense and radiant green; some top quality, fine emeralds are even more valuable than diamonds. Rubies are also used in many of the designs; the ruby is aptly named the ‘King of Gems’ to symbolise love, passion and power. For thousands of years it has been considered one of the most valuable gemstones, possessing a wonderful colour, excellent strength and an overwhelming brilliance. Natural Pearls were one of the very first of the gemstones that Al Zain was known to specialize in since 1930. Natural Pearls are unique gems even by creation, born from a living being; a pearl’s ethereal beauty is there to behold from the very first moment. Al Zain selects only the finest, most beautiful natural pearls to be transformed into exquisite pieces of jewellery. Al Zain’s ambitions are ever-evolving, with their desire to continue the craft of constructing high jewellery pieces, and nurture the relationship with their valued clientele. The brand’s values of loyalty, choice and prestige are central to who they are as a company. Al Zain strives to be credible, honest and genuine with their customers with a firm belief that the choices they have to offer are original and unique, and a reflection of them self as a brand. Presently Al Zain Jewellery has 12 boutiques located in Bahrain, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Al Khobar, Riyadh, Jordan and Qatar. www.alzainjewellery.com
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Jewellery
A New Shine Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée collection has taken on a new shine and is now available in the sunny warmth of yellow gold. Initially available in pink and white gold, the style for the latest creations was inspired by one the Maison’s emblematic know-how: golden beads. Whether adorning the hand, the neckline or the wrist, the new pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels stand out with an unmistakable gleam.
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he Perlée collection has always been distinguished by its delicate golden beads, lending their silhouette to jewellery that is cheerful and feminine. Testimony to the Maison’s heritage and savoir-faire, they glitter in an exquisite range of variations, each engraved with the Van Cleef & Arpels signature in fine English script. Diamonds add sparkle to rings and bracelets of yellow gold, tracing a glittering ribbon or graceful clover motifs. Perlée hoop earrings illuminate the face with a subtle glow, while the pendant adds a glittering light to the neckline. The latest Perlée creation is a dazzling cuff bracelet entirely covered with diamonds, its ethereal honeycomb structure composed of gleaming yellow gold. Graphic and refined, Perlée creations are refined to mix and match elegantly to every mood or occasion. Different models can be combined by each wearer in infinite combinations, to express a unique
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and personal style. Combining yellow gold with white or pink gold lends contemporary style to the collection, and can also form subtle harmonies with other jewellery pieces. Golden beads have been part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ heritage since the 1920s, when a thin thread of textured metal was first used to edge the stones and motifs of certain jewels. This type of setting – achieved by using a tool to raise the precious metal and shape it into a ball – was first used on the Egyptian style pieces, then in fashion. From 1948, beads of yellow gold multiplied to form the necklaces, earrings, bracelets and watches of the astonishing Couscous collection, sparked by an Arpels family voyage to Morocco. During the 1960s – while Twist jewels were offering a combination of golden, hard stone or coral beads – the brand’s Alhambra creations were framed with an elegant beaded border. Whether as decorative elements or sources of aesthetic inspiration, golden
beads have continued to adorn Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations, and eventually gave rise to the Perlée collection’s feminine style in 2008. From meticulous polishing and setting through to the choice of diamonds, each Perlée creation benefits from the Maison’s exceptional expertise, perpetuated in its workshops for over a century. The craftsmen’s skill carried out by hand, shaping the golden beads that will go on to form a ring, or a row perfectly aligned with the curve of a bracelet. The polisher patiently reworks them until they sparkle. The stone-setter delicately positions the diamonds, ensuring that their setting is as flawless from the rear as it is from the front. As for all Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations, the diamonds are selected using the most stringent criteria: color D, E or F and clarity IF, VVS1 or VVS2. Thanks to these high standards and an attention to detail characteristic of High Jewelry, every piece in the Perlée collection is a rare treasure. www.vancleefarpels.com
01 Thin bracelet with diamonds 02 Hoop earstuds 03 Clover ring, with diamonds 04 Cuff bracelet with diamonds 05 Three row hoop earrings
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In pursuit of the Exquisite, Intricate and Breathtaking; for generations, our skilled artisans have brought a priceless combination of both design and unrivaled craftsmanship to each unique high jewellery piece.
BAHRAIN DUBAI ABU DHABI AL KHOBAR RIYADH JORDAN QATAR www.alzainjewellery.com
Diamond Weight 35.48carat Natural Pearls 129.75chavs Gold Weight 24.854gms
Photography: Ali AlRiffai
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Watches
Soon after its foundation in 1775, the name Breguet became a byword for horological excellence. It undoubtedly possesses a matchless corporate heritage as well a history exceptional enough that allows the brand to take pride of place in the world of time. One of the key moments in the brands history came from the fascinating story of the ‘Marie Antoinette’ watch, a piece crafted for the Queen by A.L. Breguet himself, and remains a mysterious and revered piece to this day.
Mystery of the ‘Marie Antoinette’
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quated with beauty, culture and innovation, the Breguet name and brand have never ceased to fascinate. Leading figures in history, men and women alike, have owned a Breguet, including Napoleon Bonaparte, Winston Churchill, Victor Hugo and many other 20th and 21st century public figures. Breguet himself was soon welcome at Europe’s royal courts, particularly in Versailles where Queen Marie Antoinette was heard to express great admiration for his timepieces. In 1783, Breguet accepted a mysterious, astonishing order from an officer of one of Marie Antoinette’s guards. He was asked to design and make for her a watch incorporating the full range of complications and functions known at the time. The order included neither deadline nor maximum price, and gold was to be used wherever possible. Although still in the early stages of his career, A.L. Breguet had already fathered a number of impressive inventions and was a master of repeater timepieces. The Queen’s watch would possess an automatic winding mechanism, a device that was known to have fascinated
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18th century thinkers, with philosophers comparing the watch movement to a miniaturised version of the universe. Breguet in fact was being asked to produce a cathedral clock in a few square centimetres. The result was the celebrated watch number 160, dubbed the ‘Marie Antoinette’ despite the fact that the Queen never laid eyes on it. Lengthy interruptions put off its completion until 1827, by which time both the Queen and Breguet himself had died. As always with major horological achievements, the ‘Marie Antoinette’ was a collective endeavour and some twenty odd operatives were involved in its construction. The self-winding watch featured a minute repeater, full perpetual calendar, a power reserve indicator, a metallic thermometer, independently controlled centre seconds hand (making this watch the first chronograph), small running seconds, lever escapement, gold balance spring, and a double shockprotection device. Absolutely all bearings, holes and rollers were made of sapphire. The watchcase was fashioned in solid gold, with one white enamel dial and a second in rock crystal. The initial contract had been amply honoured and the watch was indeed the most intricate ever built, and for over a century remained the most complicated timepiece in the world. The sequel of this story could have been simple, however it proved anything but. With no trace of a sale to be found in Breguet’s very complete archives, the watch left the workshop in 1827, only to return in 1838 for repairs – seemingly the property of the Marquis de La Groye. However the apparent owner never returned
to pick up the watch, later dying heirless. Since no one claimed the watch, it remained in Breguet’s custody until 1887 when it was purchased by Sir Spencer Bruntun, a British collector, later passing to his brother and later still to a Mr Murray Mark. By the early 20th century, it had entered Sir David Lionel Salomons’s celebrated collection. In 1925, at Salomons’s death, the ‘Marie Antoinette’ passed to his daughter, Vera Salomons as a prelude to new developments. During various trips overseas, she developed a close friendship with a professor at a University named Leo Arie Mayer, an enthusiastic admirer of Islamic art. She thereupon decided to establish a museum of Islamic art in salute to her learned mentor and friend. Donating to the new museum every collection of Islamic art she owned, for good measure she added the collections of Western horological objects she had inherited from her father. A masterpiece of watch making conceived in Paris by a Swiss watchmaker for an Austrian archduchess who had become queen of France ended up in 1974 in the collections of a museum of Islamic art. Nine years later, on Saturday April 16 1983, deserted and badly protected, the museum was broken into and robbed of its watch collections, naturally including the ‘Marie Antoinette’. Despite efforts, the loot was never recovered. The disappearance of the ‘Marie Antoinette’ occasionally came up in articles and investigations, all concluding that there was very little hope of ever seeing this masterpiece again. Eager for the opportunity to present this fabled, but absent marvel in his museums, Nicolas G. Hayek
decided in 2004 to build a new ‘Marie Antoinette’ to replace the lost masterpiece, using only a few descriptions, rough plans and photos of the piece, which the company happened to have on file. The watch had by then been lost for over two decades. By dint of ingeniousness and tenacity, Breguet engineers and specialists gradually managed to produce usable plans for the watch, signalling the start of the ‘Marie Antoinette’ watch’s second life. Concurrently, two Breguet operatives were informed that a 322 year old oak tree, linked to Marie Antoinette herself and located on the grounds at Versailles, had finally succumbed to countless storms and a blistering summer heat wave. Planted in 1683, it had grown to 35 meters and its trunk measured up to 167 centimetres, but it had to be felled. Nicolas G. Hayek lost no time dispatching a delegation to Versailles to see if the chief gardener would consider parting with a piece of the Marie Antoinette oak, which the Versailles authorities accepted. In return, they suggested that the company underwrite the restoration of a statue on the Versailles grounds. Studying a document detailing contributions and sponsorship opportunities at Versailles, Hayek decided to finance the rehabilitation of the Petit Trianon and the Pavillon Français, formerly beloved haunts of Marie Antoinette herself. Breguet’s decision amounted to a double homage to the Queen, bringing both her watch and her favourite retreat back to their former glory. The wood made its way to Switzerland and
01 A portrait of Marie Antoinette 02 The Breguet manufacturer building 03 The original watch, stolen in 1983 04 The new version of the watch
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Watches 05 The presentation case made from the wood of Marie Antoinette’s celebrated oak tree 06 Petit Trianon, restored by Breguet
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For over two centuries now, distinguished women have selected watches by Breguet.
work got under way on all fronts. Cabinet-makers went to work on the presentation case, builders and restorers on the Versailles structures and master watch-makers on the new ‘Marie Antoinette’, all sharing the same enthusiasm. By 2007, the watch was resurrected. As soon as the media got wind of the matter, the saga of the original ‘Marie Antoinette’ roared back to life. Nicolas G. Hayek received an anonymous message offering to sell him a mysteriously resuscitated original. After a series of letters between the parties, the usual verifications and discussions with the police, Hayek refused to enter into an illegal transaction. Some months later it transpired that the watch was back in the Islamic art museum. In the meantime, however, Breguet had completed its second ‘Marie Antoinette’. In April 2008, ‘Hayek’s Marie Antoinette’ was publicly displayed for the first time at the Baselworld Show in its regal presentation case. The case’s exterior is an accurate reproduction of a typical parquetry pattern at the Petit Trianon. Inside, more inlay work hides the watch, this time of the Queen’s hand as rendered in the celebrated 1785 portrait of Marie Antoinette holding a rose. Made up of over one thousand tiny pieces of various species of wood, this masterpiece is the work of a Swiss cabinetmaker from the Vallée de Joux.
After four eventful years, Breguet today concludes a fabulous story fraught with countless surprises. Nicolas G. Hayek is happy to return the Petit Trianon to the public’s enjoyment after its thorough restoration made possible by his patronage. Adding to that event, the ‘Marie Antoinette’ watch is on hand, displayed in the Queen’s own premises in its superb presentation case made from the wood of Marie Antoinette’s celebrated oak tree. For over two centuries now, distinguished women have selected watches by Breguet. The brand, after all, has never failed to place its mastery of watch-making, gold-smithing and jewellery design at the service of feminine elegance. The company’s latest Haute Joaillerie collections for instance, are directly inspired by the romantic universe of Marie Antoinette and her Petit Trianon retreat. These outstanding jewellery designs salute the grandeur of Versailles and the charm of the French Queen’s domain, now a reminder of Breguet’s generosity in renovating the Petit Trianon. Ever more innovative and technically sophisticated, Breguet timepieces are designed and made today by highly trained teams of engineers, master watchmakers, craftsmen and designers who infuse them with their incomparable beauty.
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Perfume
Perfect Perfumes Recognised worldwide by perfumistas and retailers for its quality and visionary approach, Jovoy is a niche perfume house offering a selection of rare, exclusive and limited edition fragrances. With a focus on finding the perfect scent for each customer, the store is a showcase for the history, artistry and creativity of perfume. After first opening in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy, the house was resurrected by Francois HĂŠnin, who shares with Durrah in an exclusive interview his fascinating journey, and an insight into the largest independent store of artistic perfume in France.
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Can you tell us about your journey in the perfume business, and how you came to be where you are now? Nothing predestined me to become a player in the perfume industry. I am not from a perfumer’s family from Grasse, my father is in finance and my mother is an economy teacher. Coming from a very classical family, I studied in a business school. But opposite to most of my friends, I felt the need to travel and open my mind to other cultures. In a world that is shrinking, I wanted to have a bite of adventure and taste different visions and philosophies. That thirst for learning lead me to Vietnam where I spent over 5 years, working in a buying office for European based companies. One day, a perfumer called me asking for supplies of natural raw materials, and this is how everything started. At the time, French young men still had to do their military service. So I found myself, at the age of 25, still working as a supplier or agent for perfume companies, compelled to serve an additional 18 months at the Chinese border. There, I sat up a small pilot distillation plant to explore the potential of barks, roots, leaves, flowers, transformed into oils, for the fine perfumery. After that, I came back to France and spent 4 years in Grasse working in a lab, learning more, but not becoming a perfumer. When I got married and left the south of France for Paris, I took the decision to bring back to life Jovoy, a forgotten perfume house from the roaring twenties.
In 2010 I finally opened the first multi brand perfume shop in Paris, as an “embassy” for my friends producing perfumes from all around the world. And a year later I inaugurated an ideally located major perfume store in Paris, with 70 different brands of niche perfumes. Now we are opening franchises and partnerships around the world, starting with one shop in Teheran and one to come soon in Morocco.
What is the main vision behind Jovoy Paris, and how is it unique? Jovoy is both a retail concept and a perfume house. As a perfume house, it is a Parisian perfumer exploring the classical blends or historical themes French traditional perfumery has been working on for centuries. But today to be original; everything starts with an olfactive signature. My nine perfumes use mostly natural ingredients, which I find more interesting on the skin, more alive and less predictable than synthetic notes. But modern perfumery does not allow us to use most ingredients we would have used (both in quantity and quality) in the twenties. For example, most animal origin oils are not used anymore in our perfumery. As a shop, Jovoy is unique by its offer. You won’t find an assortment of so many talents in any other place in Paris. We want to be able to surprise you by offering hard to find perfumes from young creators with new visions, and each time a chance to find your own perfume as the closest alternative to a bespoke perfume.
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01 The warm shop interior 02 The exterior of the shop at 4 Rue de Castiglione 03 Francois Hénin 04 The vintage furniture comes from old pharmacies and barber shops
How do you find the perfumes that you select for your store? At first it was easy, the first shop was made to be a window for my friend’s brands so the selection was made more out of friendship. It might surprise you, but when I started you could not find many shops dedicated to these fragrances in Paris, the capital city of the so called “country of perfumes”. Becoming “the embassy of perfumes in Paris” I have met pretty much every single brand that was launched in the last 30 years, from huge classics to more recent concepts. Now the most important criteria when I select a brand is what’s inside the bottle. I do not see the interest in bringing the same thing over and over, so all perfumes from a brand should bring their own signature, something original and of course should have a story behind it. It is also most of the time a personal story. There are people you want to work with and people you have to work with. I try to stay faithful to my impressions, and work with people I enjoy working with.
Tell us about one of your most recent fragrances, and what makes it special. The latest from the Jovoy brand was “Gardez Moi” meaning “Keep Me” in English, which was first launched in 1926 in an amazing bottle of a black cat in baccarat crystal. For this perfume, I decided to commission Bertrand Duchaufour, one of best master perfumers of our times. The Gardez Moi scent plays on Gardenia, a flower that is very emblematic of the Parisian ladies of the roaring twenties. At that time perfumes were extremely concentrated, women wanted to be noticed so their fragrances were quite heavy. Technically I could not reproduce the original bouquet, but I wanted a perfume using the scent of Gardenia for women of my time, that had a signature of its own. This is where the master Duchaufour came in, uniquely combining a green aqueous top note and opulent blend of white flowers, with the Gardenia bouquet and tuberose shining through bottom notes of dry wood and musk. Made for my contemporaries, this perfume is an ode to white flowers, the way I see them on Parisian ladies.
The Middle East has a very rich heritage in the world of fragrances. What are your comments? Our world is really shrinking, everything is moving so fast. I guess there are no more boundaries for talent and with the growing number of travellers around the globe, people exchange more in a better way 04
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Perfume
05 The store carries a handpicked selection like no other 06 The colour scheme is red and black – signature colours of Jovoy 07 A showcase for the history, artistry and creativity of perfume
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My nine perfumes use mostly natural ingredients, which I find more interesting on the skin, more alive and less predictable than synthetic notes.
and far faster than it was for our fathers. The Middle East heritage in the world of fragrances is flooding our shelves, in all segments of the perfume markets. Since a decade or so ago, almost as a synonym of oriental perfumes in our occidental world, Oud is now everywhere, and not only because some may wish to seduce your noses! The success is impossible to deny when I see our French clients buying the beautiful fragrances that originally were made for the Middle East. On the other hand, we have seen the success of many brands from this area becoming established companies and being part of the top ten sellers in Russia, Germany, United States, and of course France.
What do you think makes the Oud scent so unique? Nowadays, perfumers see the number of natural ingredients shrinking because of legislation issues. In a world where it is not politically correct (when authorised) to use animal origin raw materials like musk, which is banned from our industry, the Oud wood oil brings something that is missing: a touch of sensuality. The Oud oil coming from South East Asia can be very animalistic and leathery, a multi-faceted raw material that brings volume, trail, presence and personality to a fragrance. The big trend of European perfumes using Oud notes also comes from our admiration of people coming from your part of the world, travelling to us and showing us perfumery we tend to forget. While showing a strong signature, they all have a personality; here spicy, there woody, but always very sensual.
You meet many Middle Eastern clients regularly, how do their tastes to perfumes differ to European tastes? Generally visitors from abroad and especially from Middle East are looking for new, exclusive or absolutely spectacular pieces of art, both in terms of presentation with beautiful bottles and of the purest nectars. Most of the time we are talking about heavy perfumes, but I see more and more visitors looking for lighter fragrances. The funny part of the story is that I see many Middle Eastern people buying a perfume from a
Corsican, Argentinean or Spanish perfumer, traditionally very far from oriental tastes. And on the contrary the French are very interested in Mukhalats, Attars or Oud based fragrances. I guess what is exotic in one part of the world is not in another part, and the other way around. This is certainly one of the benefits of globalisation, sharing culture and experiences, and that works for perfumes too.
Can you describe the ambience of your store at 4 Rue de Castiglione? The shop uses strong and warm colour codes, with red and black walls – Jovoy’s signature colours. In France red is the colour of passion, but in Asia it is more the colour of happiness. I think it’s quite a good mix if you can share our passion and continue travelling with a smile on your face, it would be of a great satisfaction to us. I tried to create a warm atmosphere, using vintage furniture from old pharmacies and barber shops that bring a typical French touch to this huge shop. We are between a modern concept store and a traditional perfumery, you are invited to sit and relax while enjoying a coffee or a tea, and take your time exploring up to 1200 different perfumes. Our mission is to help you find perfumes that keep their promises on your skin and serve you well, not to try to sell you a brand or a fashionable trend. I guess you would have to come to see from your own eyes and nose and judge for yourself!
What does the future hold for the Jovoy perfumery concept? As we speak, we are opening a few stores abroad and planning to open more franchises in France. We have started discussions with several parties and think we are mature enough to share our success with others. When it comes to perfume it’s not only a question of location or display, but also a matter of what you want to share with your clients. We are not selling a brand or image like in advertising, we are selling stories. We spend time with you to try to find between 1200 references, one perfume – The perfume – the missing half that completes you and is the reflection of how unique you are in a world that tends to make us look and smell the same.
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Perfume
The Philosophy of Fate
Amouage fragrances have reflected the wonderful heritage and tradition of perfumery for the last 30 years, leading the way with a devotion to creating finely balanced scents from the highest quality of rare and luxurious ingredients. In the final creation that expresses the end of the first cycle of the Amouage narrative; ‘Fate’ is a fragrance for men and women, and the latest offering under the guidance of Creative Director Christopher Chong
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iche luxury fragrance house Amouage has always been dedicated to adopting an inventive approach when crafting their world renowned perfumes. In the latest and final creation for their first series comes Amouage Fate, customized separately for man and woman in a blend of scents intended to celebrate the power of mystery. The idea behind each fragrance is carefully planned and developed by Creative Director Christopher Chong, whose efforts have been described as “liquefying the human condition”. Chong works to develop emotional and intellectual depth with each perfume, analysing and exploring different human emotions and experiences. In the case of Amouage Fate Chong says, “The philosophy of Fate remains wrapped in obscurity. I wanted to celebrate the power of mystery and end the narrative without a defined conclusion. Amouage fragrances have always challenged convention, and in tribute, the last story of our first chapter does not pre-ordain the characters’ fortunes, but instead sets them free into the world, where their fate awaits them.”
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World-recognised perfumers in Paris, Grasse, Geneva and New York bring their long and masterful experience in perfumery to the house of Amouage, through careful creation of each fragracnce.
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04 01 The brand’s iconic clear glasscrystal bottles 02 Amouage Fate launch dinner 03 Amouage Fate, Woman & Man 04 Lavender and gold, the signature colours of Amouage Fate
This attention to detail is what makes Fate by Amouage a luxury for the true perfume connoisseur. Fate for woman comprises of a floral heart with notes of Rose and Jasmine, which is deepened by the darker base notes of Oakmoss and Leather. The top notes containing Cinnamon, Chilli and Bergamot, give the fragrance a spicy harmony, intending to set a mysterious mood of the unexpected. Fate for man starts with fresh top notes Citrus, Absinth and sharp Ginger, which pervades to a heart of Lavandin and Rose. The woody base features Cedarwood, Liquorice, Sandalwood and Musk, creating a haunting intensity. Both fragrances feature the finest Middle Eastern ingredients as is typical of Amouage, and contain a basis of Frankincense and Labdanum. They are presented in the brand’s iconic clear glasscrystal bottles in a simple yet elegant design. The glass features a rainbow undertone, with gold plated caps accented with an aurora borealis inspired Swarovski crystal that studs the lid. They are housed in kaleidoscope purple-toned boxes with gold foil designs, which represent different interpretations of fate. World-recognised perfumers in Paris, Grasse, Geneva
and New York bring their long and masterful experience in perfumery to the house of Amouage, through careful creation of each fragracnce. They base their work on an intimate understanding and interpretation of Chong’s directions, and represent the House’s philosophy of creating its own trend. It is this creative integrity that has allowed the brand to expand on a global level, meaning Amouage is available for purchase from 13 stand alone shops across Oman, UAE, Bahrain, Saudi Arabia, Malaysia and the United Kingdom, with eight more shops planned for 2013. The distribution network of the brand reaches 52 countries, where Amouage fragrances are sold in some of the world’s premier stores including Harrods, Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges in London, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and most recently, Harvey Nichols in Dubai. Arresting and alluring, the various collections of the House of Amouage are synonymous with sophisticated and confident tastes, targeted at the consumer who is not afraid to stand out from the crowd, and who appreciates true mastery in perfume creation. www.amouage.com
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Fashion
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Legendary French fashion house Balenciaga is a label that has well and truly stood the test of time. Founded in Spain in 1919 by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a man hailed by Cecil Beaton as “fashion’s Picasso”, the house was quick to find success in fashion capital Paris, where customers risked their lives to travel and see the designs during World War II. Today Balenciaga welcomes on board new creative director Alexander Wang, who in his latest collection has paid tribute to the archives of the iconic brand. His stunning collections for fall/winter are now available exclusively for men at Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, and for women at Saks Fifth Avenue Bahrain.
Back to Basics
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ristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastian Spain in 1918, quickly expanding to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. His sense of style and uncompromising standards gained him popularity amongst the Spanish royal family and aristocracy. When the Spanish Civil War forced Cristóbal to shut down, he moved the business to Paris and opened a couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, taking with him the experience of the Spanish Renaissance, which heavily influenced his first runway show. Balenciaga’s success in Paris was almost immediate, winning the designer praise and admiration from fellow designers, Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. Chanel was quoted as saying, “Balenciaga is a couturier in the truest sense of the word. Only he is capable of cutting material, assembling a creation, and sewing it by hand. The others are simply fashion designers.” In the post-war era he diverged from the path of Dior’s hugely popular ‘New Look’, creating a more linear and flowing silhouette, proving that he was an original and daring designer, who followed his own rules. During the 1960s, Balenciaga experimented with heavier fabrics, and his trademarks included collars
that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance, and shortened ‘bracelet’ sleeves. His sculptural creations became masterpieces of haute couture, and he was a favourite among high profile clients such as first lady Jackie Kennedy, and Queen Fabiola of Belgium, for whom he designed her wedding dress. Today the designs of Balenciaga have taken on a fresh and hip interpretation of the old classics, catching the attention of the fashion savvy and attracting an impressive list of VIP clientele. The brand is known for its avant-garde and structural designs, and the immensely popular ‘motorcycle handbags’, with the famous ‘Lariat’ in particular receiving much acclaim. In 2012 Alexander Wang took over as creative director, presenting his first show at Paris Fashion Week in February 2013. The winter ‘13 collection for men is a combination of formal and functional wear, offering classic and elegant pieces stripped of ostentation. Fine fabrics, both comfortable and crisp lend this collection an almost aristocratic air, keeping with a notion of timelessness. The graphic silhouettes are created in tribute to art deco style, by unexpected pairings of shapes and proportions.
01 Classic 5 pocket denim pants 02 Classic traveller backpack in blue 03 Sphinx graphic t-shirt 04 Papier A4 East West Bag 05 Panelled high top sneaker in metallic blue and maroon 06 Panelled high top sneaker in white, red and navy
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Fashion
The brand is known for its avant-garde and structural designs, and the immensely popular ‘motorcycle handbags’, with the famous ‘Lariat’ in particular receiving much acclaim.
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Round, ample shapes on top are paired with long, straight-cut pieces below, and elegant, fitted top halves are contradicted by wide-legged cropped trousers. Dimension is found in the texture and patchwork details of the collection, as fur and lace prints are used along with mixed materials and fabrics. The women’s collection is a completely feminine wardrobe of fundamental pieces, which emphasize two ideas; the body’s movement within the clothes, and the opposition between the static and the dynamic. The selection of luxurious materials was deliberately restricted to Kabic, crêpe, velvet, leather and fur, which were enhanced using modern techniques and signature Balenciaga finishes. Wang looked to the early work of the house as his inspiration, identifying signature looks that work as wardrobe basics. Fur takes on the look of marble, leather has become mosaic, knit has taken on a plaster-like appearance, evening wear is turned into day wear and backs are worn as fronts. All of the designs are in a basic colour palette blend of black, optical white, ebony, cream and cypress. These modern and luxurious collections are available at Saks Fifth Avenue, with the men’s range exclusively available in Dubai, and the women’s in Bahrain.
07 Sphinx graphic dress 08 Crème leather bag 09 The collection for men is a combination of formal and functional wear 10 Graphic silhouettes are created in tribute to art deco style 11 All designs are in a basic colour palette of black, optical white, ebony, cream and cypress 12 The women’s collection is a completely feminine wardrobe of fundamental pieces 13 Leather bag in black and green 05
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Pearls of Wisdom 048
Culture
For centuries, pearls have been employed in both East and West as a symbol of status and wealth, with pearl divers in the Middle East among the first to retrieve the treasure from the depths of the ocean, bringing the Gulf its first taste of wealth. In a new exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) this autumn, the history of pearls is explored from the early Roman Empire to the present. Organised in partnership with the Qatar Museums Authority (QMA), the exhibition will feature over 200 pieces of jewellery and works of art showcasing the extraordinary variety of colour and shape of natural and cultured pearls, and will be the highlight event of the Qatar UK 2013 Year of Culture.
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pearl-drop earring worn by Charles I at his execution in 1649, magnificent pearl tiaras worn by European nobility and a necklace of cultured pearls given to Marilyn Monroe by Joe DiMaggio in 1954 will be among the incredible array of jewels and other objects on display at the exhibition, which will run from 21 September 2013 – 19 January 2014. The beginning of the exhibition will offer an insight into the natural history of pearls and the pearl- fishing trade from across the Arabian Gulf to Europe and Asia, with a collection of rare pearls and pearl-bearing mollusks demonstrating how Gulf pearls have long been some of the most desirable and valuable in the world. The often dangerous working methods of pearl divers will be revealed, and the trading practices of pearl merchants in the Gulf, together with examples of equipment required for weighing and valuing pearls. The central focus of the exhibition will chronicle the representation of pearls in jewellery through history, showcasing Ancient Roman jewels made as early as the 1st century AD all the way up to the contemporary work
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01 Frozen, silver nylon, freshwater pearls (Artist: Sam Tho Duong, © Petra Jaschke) 02 Cross pendant, gold with rubies and natural pearls (Germany 150025, © V&A Museum) 03 Necklace, pearls set in coloured gold (England c.1850, © V&A Museum) 04 Gold hair ornament, set with natural pearls, emeralds and sapphires (Roman, 3rd Century AD, © The Trustees of the British Museum)
made by designers practising today. Through Antiquity, myths and legends surrounded the pearl and early examples of Roman and Byzantine jewellery will show how they were used as a sign of power and an indicator of rank in society. It was during the Renaissance, as Europe experienced a period of affluence that pearls began to be used extravagantly in jewellery and feature prominently in a new genre of portrait painting, as a mark of extreme authority and wealth. On display will be paintings and portrait miniatures featuring nobles, courtiers and affluent merchants of society, adorned with pearls. The fascination with pearls continued in the 18th century, with celebrities of the day including MarieAntoinette, Empress Catherine the Great of Russia and Queen Charlotte, wearing opulent pearls either in swags or as multiple strands and chokers, as seen in the portrait miniature of Queen Charlotte. However, wearing jewellery was not restricted to women; men of distinction such as George III also wore jewels and accessories, and on show will be set of his buttons finely enamelled and framed with pearls in 1780. In Victorian times pearls often had symbolic meanings and were found in sentimental jewels, or as naturalistic motifs with allegorical content. Examples featured will include the so-called ‘Dagmar necklace’ gifted to Princess Alexandra when she married the
Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII, in 1863. A Maharaja’s coat from 1870 India richly embroidered with pearls, as well as an Imperial Robe from China studded with pearls and a Chinese wedding head-dress will examine the significance of pearls in the Far East. These will be shown alongside tiaras formerly belonging to the British and European high nobility, such as the 1878 Rosebery pearl and diamond Tiara, along with pieces worn by celebrities of today, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari pearl-drop pendant earrings from 1972. The exhibition will also follow the invention of the cultured pearl and its production on an industrial scale, by Kokichi Mikimoto in Japan who succeeded in developing the necessary technology to establish ways of making pearls affordable for every woman to wear. As a result of his efforts, today in East Asia and the South Seas an impressive variety of cultured pearls can be found in unusual colours. The jewellery and works of art featured will be drawn from the V&A and QMA’s collections, alongside objects from British collections including Tate Britain, the British Museum and the Royal Collection. In a joint venture by both Qatar and the UK, the Pearls exhibition aims to provide an appreciation of culture and heritage, through offering a fascinating insight into the history of one of the most important symbols of the Middle East.
The jewellery and works of art featured will be drawn from the V&A and QMA’s collections, alongside objects from British collections including Tate Britain, the British Museum and the Royal Collection.
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Special Event
Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience Dubai steps into the spotlight as one of the top international style destinations, as it plans to host the global fashion event the Vogue Fashion Dubai experience on October 10, 2013. Held at the Dubai Mall, the event is organised with Vogue Italia, one of the world’s most prestigious style-setting fashion magazines.
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he Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience will bring together 250 top fashion brands in an extended retail and lifestyle celebration, which will be highlighted by dedicated mentoring sessions for Emirati and regional fashion designers. The mentoring sessions will led by special guest Mrs. Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Italia, the trendiest and most influential Italian fashion magazine in the world, along with other renowned celebrities. Mrs Sozzani, who has been serving as Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Italia since 1988, will offer insights on the newest trends in the fashion industry and evaluate the works of the designers. A gala dinner underlining the spirit of sharing will also be hosted and attended by international celebrities, with the proceeds to go towards Dubai Cares – the charity initiative founded by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, UAE Vice President and Prime Minister and Ruler of Dubai. The philanthropic organisation works to improve children’s access to quality primary
education in developing countries. Mohamed Alabbar, Chairman of Emaar Properties, said: “The Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience will be the most definitive fashion celebration in the city, with the world’s leading names in the industry joining hands for a true celebration of the best in fashion. Today, Dubai serves as the undisputed style capital of the region, with the high-density aggregation of luxury brands at The Dubai Mall making it the must-visit shopping destination for fashionistas from around the world. “The Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience will be unmatched in scale, with emphasis on both showcasing the newest trends as well as promoting retail. The choice of Vogue Italia to host the event in the city and at The Dubai Mall is a strong declaration to the global fashion circuit that Dubai has indeed arrived. Further, by nurturing young talent and raising funds for Dubai Cares, the event underlines the strong societal role that the fashion industry can play.”
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Special Event
Located in the heart of the prestigious Downtown Dubai mixed-use development, The Dubai Mall has over 1,200 retail outlets and two anchor department stores. The 440,000 sq ft Fashion Avenue, dedicated to high fashion, positions The Dubai Mall as the fashion hub, while The Souk, featuring 99 stores offering gold & jewellery, traditional handicrafts, souvenirs, abayas, perfumes and carpets, among others, is a dedicated precinct designed to reflect traditional Arabic heritage and culture. The Fashion Catwalk, the vibrant heart of The Dubai Mall’s dedicated fashion precinct, will host a fashion show where international talented designers will showcase their collection. The various activities will also be telecast live through the mall’s multimedia displays. Over 400,000 visitors are expected for the colourful celebration of style and glamour. The mall will be decked up to mark the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience with exclusive settings ready to host a series of special events. The Grand Atrium will host an exhibition featuring 50 Vogue covers that have
earned a place in fashion history books. The participating stores will exhibit merchandise for sale, created especially for the ‘Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience,’ with part of the proceeds from the sale also going towards Dubai Cares, which works to improve children’s access to quality primary education in developing countries. Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Italia, said, “The Dubai Mall is a Fashion World. Vogue Italia is the Fashion Magazine. To make an event together means to welcome all the people who love fashion, and also to give an opportunity to young talents to show their creativity and their talent. But this event has another aim, too, and that is to raise funds for Dubai Cares which is one of the most internationally recognised organisations in helping children for education and health. We are really delighted to participate in such an incredible project and to underline how much The Dubai Mall and Vogue care about creativity and social opportunities.”
01 Vogue cover, February 1990 02 Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Italia 03 The Dubai Mall 04 The Dubai Mall, Fashion Avenue 05 His Excellency Mr Mohamed Alabbar, Chairman of Emaar Properties and Franca Sozzani
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The Fashion Catwalk, the vibrant heart of The Dubai Mall’s dedicated fashion precinct, will host a fashion show where international talented designers will showcase their collection.
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Longing for Mecca 058
Masterpiece
For hundreds of years the Hajj has inspired rulers and artists to commission or make magnificent objects devoted to this pilgrimage to Mecca, which is central to the Muslim faith. From 10 September to 9 March 2013, the Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic Art is delighted to be lending some 80 works to the first major exhibition in the Netherlands devoted to the Hajj. ‘Longing for Mecca – a pilgrim’s journey’ will contain over 250 items, ranging in date from the 10th century to the present day with origins from Indonesia to Morocco, which will be shown at the National Museum of Ethnology in Leiden, in collaboration with the British Museum in London.
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he Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic Art comprises some 20,000 works and is the largest and most comprehensive in the world, encompassing the entire history of Islamic art from its beginnings in the 7th century to the present day. Professor Nasser D. Khalili, an eminent scholar, is passionate about art and collecting and one of his reasons for assembling the Khalili Collection, under the auspices of the Khalili Family Trust, was to promote a greater understanding between people of different cultures and faiths and to increase awareness of the rich contributions of Islamic cultures to world art. Longing for Mecca – the pilgrim’s journey provides the ideal opportunity to further such understanding. Mecca occupies a more prominent place in Dutch culture and history than in some Western countries, as hundreds of thousands of residents of the Netherlands and citizens from the former Dutch colonies of Indonesia and Suriname have made the pilgrimage in the past. At the heart of the sanctuary at Mecca lies the Ka‘bah, the holiest site in Islam, and the custom of
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01 Panoramic view of Mecca, by Muhammad ‘Abdullah, the Delhi cartographer. Probably Mecca, c. 1845, ink and opaque watercolour on paper 02 Sitr for the mahmal, bearing the tughra of Sultan Abdülaziz, presented by Isma‘il Pasha, the khedive of Egypt. Ottoman Egypt, Cairo, 1867-76; red silk with green silk appliqués 03 Curtain (sitarah or burqu‘) for the external door of the Ka‘bah, with the name of the Ottoman sultan Ahmad I. Ottoman Egypt, Cairo, dated AH 1015 (1606 AD); black silk, with red, beige and green silk appliqués 04 Sitarah for the minbar of the Meccan Sanctuary, with the name of King Faruq of Egypt. Cairo, dated AH 1365 (1946 AD); dark-blue silk, with beige silk appliqués
covering the Ka‘bah with a kiswah (garment) goes back to pre-Islamic times and continues to this day. In Mamluk times, Cairo provided both the internal and external kiswahs for the Ka‘bah, a curtain for its door and another for the tomb of the prophet in Medina. Cairo continued to provide most of these textiles until the early 20th century, and the exhibition will include a group of interesting 19th and 20th century photographs related to the making and parading of the pilgrimage textiles in Cairo, some of which come from an important archive of documents and photographs relating to the Dar al-Kiswah, the Cairo-based workshop responsible for the production of the kiswah. The Khalili Collection is rich in textile art and it is one of the few private collections to own a significant number of pilgrimage-related textiles. After the Topkapi Sarayi in Istanbul, it has the largest group of textiles and objects relating to Mecca and Medina in the world. Made of silk or silk lampas, such textiles are usually richly embroidered in silver and silver-gilt wire, often with verses from the Qur’an. One of the earliest examples to be exhibited is an embroidered black silk curtain (sitarah or burqu‘) for the external door of the Ka‘bah, with the name of the Ottoman sultan Ahmad I; it was made in Cairo in AH 1015 (1606 AD). Particularly elaborate is an embroidered red silk sitr (cover) for the mahmal, an empty palanquin that was at the head of the annual procession taking the new kiswah from Cairo to Mecca, and which represented the authority of the Ottoman sultans over the holy places. One of very few surviving examples, it was ordered by Sultan Abdülaziz and
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presented by Isma‘il Pasha, the khedive of Egypt, and dates from 1867-76. Also on show will be a bag for the key of the Ka‘bah made from embroidered olive-green silk with red silk appliqués, dated AH 1327 (1909-10 AD), which was commissioned by Sultan Mehmed V and presented by ‘Abbas Hilmi Pasha, the khedive of Egypt. A silk sitarah (curtain) for the minbar (pulpit) of the Meccan Sanctuary, commissioned by King Faruq of Egypt and made in Cairo in AH 1365 (1946 AD), is a rare survival of its type even though of relatively recent date. It too is of silk and is embroidered with silver and silver-gilt wire. A particularly important item on loan from the Khalili Collection is the earliest known panoramic view of Mecca, dating from circa 1845, which is remarkable for its accuracy. Executed in watercolour by Muhammad ‘Abdullah, the Delhi cartographer, who had been commissioned by the Sharif of Mecca to depict the sacred monuments of his realm, the work brilliantly combines a plan of the city with a bird’s eye view of about 60 degrees. One historic visitor was Alexander the Great, who is depicted at the Ka‘bah in a page from an Iranian copy of Firdawsi’s epic poem, the Shahnamah or Book of Kings, painted in Shiraz in the 16th century. Alexander’s journey to the Ka‘bah was the first of his world journeys when he declared himself master of Arabia and destroyed those who had distorted its religious tradition. Among other outstanding manuscripts from the Khalili Collection is an exceptional, extensively illuminated Moroccan copy of the Dala’il al-khayrat of al-Jazuli, including several pages with the names of Allah and
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Masterpiece
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05 A copy of the Dala’il al-khayrat 06 of al-Jazuli and other prayers, including several pages with the names of Allah and Muhammad written in a large, decorative script, two diagrammatic drawings of al-hujrah al-sharifah and al-rawdah al-mutahharah at the Prophet’s mosque in Medina, as well as a two-page illustration of the Prophet’s sandal; Morocco, copied by Muhammad bin ‘Abd al-Qadir alRabati, AH 1254 (1838 AD) 07 Bag for the key of the Ka‘bah, commissioned by the Ottoman sultan Mehmed V and presented by ‘Abbas Hilmi Pasha, the khedive of Egypt; Cairo, dated AH 1327 (190910 AD); olive-green silk with red silk appliqués
Also on show will be a bag for the key of the Ka‘bah made from embroidered olive-green silk with red silk appliqués, dated AH 1327 (1909-10 AD). 07 08
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Masterpiece 08 Printing block with views of Mecca and Medina. Possibly Egypt or Ottoman Turkey, late 19th or early 20th century 09 The Holy Sanctuary at Mecca with the Ka‘bah, in scroll format. China, 19th century; signed (in Chinese) ‘painted by Ma Chao’; ink and watercolour on paper 10 Rasulid silver dirham; in the name of al-Mansur ‘Umar ibn ‘Ali, Mina AH 636 (1238-9 AD) 11 Statuette of a camel and rider. Mesopotamia or the Levant, 8th or 9th century; ivory, carved, with some traces of black pigment
Muhammad written in a large, decorative script, two diagrammatic views of the Prophet’s mosque and tomb chamber, and a two-page illustration of the Prophet’s sandal, copied by Muhammad bin ‘Abd al-Qadir alRabati in AH 1254 (1838 AD). Two 19th century ink and watercolour views of the Holy Sanctuary at Mecca come from India and China. The Indian example is signed Riza while the Chinese example, in scroll form, is inscribed ‘painted by Ma Chao’. Other views appear on Hajj certificates issued to attest that pilgrims had completed the prescribed rites. Among those in the exhibition will be an early 20th century printed example from Turkey or Egypt with views of the Ka‘bah and the Rawdah, the Prophet’s tomb at Medina. There is also a late 19th or early 20th century printing block with similar views of Mecca and Medina. It is perhaps more unusual to find depictions of the holy sanctuaries at Mecca and Medina on a shirt as is the case with a cotton talismanic shirt inscribed with extracts from the Qur’an and prayers, as well as schematic representations of the two Holy Sanctuaries, made in Mughal India or the Deccan in the 16th or early 17th century. Other aspects of the pilgrimage can be found in a number of intriguing objects including one of the earliest pieces from the Khalili Collection to be exhibited: an extraordinary ivory statuette of a camel and rider carved in the 8th or 9th century in Mesopotamia or the Levant, which has never been on public view before. Scientific instruments such as a 9th century North African cast brass planispheric astrolabe were used to determine the
times and direction of prayer (Qiblah) while others, like the 19th century Qiblah compass with its leather carrying case from Iran, helped the pilgrims on their way. Loans from the Khalili Collection also include an extremely rare silver dirham from Yemen, one of only two known examples. It was minted in Mina by alMansur ‘Umar ibn ‘Ali, the newly-independent Rasulid ruler of Yemen, possibly to be given to pilgrims in AH 636 (1238-9 AD) when he performed his hajj. A gold medallion with representations of the two Holy Sanctuaries, struck around 1845, is a unique piece whilst a group of rare coins struck in Mecca itself include two very early gold dinars in the names of the Abbasid caliphs, al-Musta‘in bi’l-llah, and al-Muktafi bi’-llah, dated AH 248 (862 AD) and AH 292 (904-5 AD) respectively. Such is the importance of the pilgrimage to Mecca, which is only accessible to Muslims, that every year it is visited by some 15 million believers from all over the world including several million during the Hajj itself. What desire or longing drives them to go? What trials and tribulations do they encounter, what manner of purification do they undergo? What are their unforgettable impressions and experiences, on their journey, in Mecca itself and after their return? Through wonderful objects and individual stories, Longing for Mecca – the pilgrim’s journey will present a comprehensive picture of this pilgrimage and offer exceptional insight into one of the greatest spiritual, cultural and religious phenomena in the world.
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Masterpiece
Art brought to life
The inspiration behind the work of artist C.G.SCHĂœBEL was her vision to create something that had never been seen before. With a focus on nature, C.G.SCHĂœBEL devised a new technique that allowed her to bring to life the beauty and grace of animals in motion, in a series of visual masterpieces.
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erman born C.G.SCHÜBEL’s work is instantly captivating, and begs the question how the detail of real life can be captured with such precision in a piece of art. C.G.SCHÜBEL’s dream was to create something that caused this sense of wonder, something that had never been done before. In order to achieve this, she developed and perfected a technique she refers to as ‘paintshooting’. The process involves capturing a unique and fleeting moment of an animal in motion through photography, and through her high level of expertise and skill, transforming it into an elaborate large scale painting. Over a period of several months, C.G.SCHÜBEL works on a complex creative process, in which she documents the elaborate performance of animals in motion through ‘live shooting’. Once captured, the artist transforms the image into a huge painting, some reaching up to 80 square meters. C.G.SCHÜBEL describes her art as portraits that catch the magic of a moment, and preserve the beauty of the animal forever. She says, ”My art is a homage to the wonderful nature, and also one to our hearts and emotions”. Throughout the creative process, C.G.SCHÜBEL pays special attention to ensure that she portrays the aura and character of each animal she depicts, which
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requires a sense of intuition and patience. A finished portrait will have passed through several time-consuming and intricate processes, as C.G.SCHÜBEL applies her artistic sense for colour and painting technique, in order to create a perfect fusion between animal and painting. Born in Bavaria, C.G.SCHÜBEL’s love of all things creative from graphics and illustration, to the ‘old Masters’ paintings, were what led her to take up an artistic career. After completing her studies in design, she set up her own advertising agency, which has now been working successfully for 30 years on behalf of clients domestically and abroad. Through her work as an artist, C.G.SCHÜBEL has taken part in many exhibitions, including several in the Middle East, and has illustrated a number of books. She was also a member of the Association of Visual Artists. Today the artist lives in Munich and is supported by her team under the technical direction of T. Weilbuchner. She creates her impressive paintings upon special request, inspiring customers all over the world, and is in contact with architects, interior designers, fashion designers, manufacturers of yachts, aeroplanes and luxury cars and hotels. She says, “It gives me great pleasure to see the enthusiasm and admiration which my works arouses in those who love art and animals. Every individual animal portrayed in the pictures acquires an extraordinary radiance and attraction which touches the soul.”
01 In pursuit of dreams (2.6 x 2.1m in three parts) 02 Discovering new worlds (1 x 1.1m) 03 Light of the inspiration (1.36 x 2.3m) 04 Following the voice of the nature (2 pieces, each 1.4 x 2.25m)
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Masterpiece 05 Full of admiration, the moon casts a silken veil over the beauty of the horse (5.2 x 2.9m in four parts) 06 The Artist in front of her Artwork: The beauty of the night (3.0 x 1.4m) 07 The rising star in the twilight (1.35 x 1.39m)
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C.G.SCHÜBEL talks to Durrah about her journey as an artist When did you first translate your love of animals into art? From my earliest childhood days, the love of animals and the talent to draw and paint were built into me. When I was only four I was drawing all kinds of animals like horses, camels, giraffes, lions and so on.
Tell us a bit more about the method of ‘paintshooting’ that you developed. The search for a new method has been with me all my life I think, and has over the years matured within me. Paintshooting is mainly based on artistry and poetry. My pictures are not created on the computer. I employ traditional and new design techniques and combine these. My method is not only intricate; it is unique as well, since the animal is drawn actively into the creative process. I think it is important to present each animal in its uniqueness. You have to experience paintshooting and it is always an unforgettable and exciting experience, both for my patrons and myself. I am really happy when the proud owners of these noble creatures say with enthusiasm that they have never before seen them like this
What was your main inspiration behind creating these animal paintings? It may sound perhaps like a fairy tale, but I am following an inner voice, which told me in 2010 that the time had come to put into practice what I had dreamt about all my life – to present creatures in a totally new way. The inner voice also told me I should
start with falcons. The enthusiastic response to the first exhibitions was so great that it became clear that this was destiny and that I have to continue.
A majority of your works feature falcons and horses. What is it about these animals that you admire, and would you consider painting other animals? I can of course imagine this and I am already looking forward to portraying other creatures, yet I admire falcons and horses more than any others. Their grace and charm, beauty and strength have already impressed many of us, who have fallen under their spell. I too am drawn and fascinated by them. I have had enquiries about bears and camels, for fish as well and I do look forward to fresh challenges.
You have illustrated a number of books, can you tell us a bit about these? After my studies in design and art, I illustrated for a lot of magazines and publishers in Germany, Switzerland, Austria and even Japan. My biggest work was a large 120 page ‘Buch der Deutschen Volkslieder’ (Book of German Folk Songs).
What are some of the exhibitions you have taken part in? Following my first show in 2011 in Palace Schleissheim in Germany I received invitations from Europe and the Emirates (for instance ADIHEX in Abu Dhabi). It was a special honour to get a
personal invitation from the Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to exhibit on the 40th national anniversary, at the embassy in Berlin. It is also a great pleasure for me that many interested people visit my permanent exhibition/showroom on the net (schuebelgallery.com). I am proud that my picture book ‘Magic of a Moment’ has been received so well by many animal and art lovers.
You have worked a lot in the Middle East, how has your work been received here so far? It may sound a bit odd, but I believe it is my destiny to be in the right place at the right time with my art. It’s the only way I can explain how I have my greatest admirers in the Middle East, more than anywhere else. My pictures open palace doors and hearts in a wonderful way. People who meet me always tell me the pictures arouse great feelings and deep emotions. I respond to them with the greatest respect and affection, because they see with the heart and with the eyes of poetry. They are proud of their traditions, yet open to modern times. Perhaps my pictures embody a wonderful bonding of tradition and modernity, accompanied by the gift to touch the soul.
What’s next for you? I am working on portraying the marvellous Arabian horses and falcons for a notable personality in the Emirates.
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Experience
Customised Creations
T Ferrari lovers are now being given the exclusive chance to personalise their car in a way that perfectly reflects their vision and tastes, through the launch of their new TailorMade programme. Blending refined and unusual materials, accessories and colours for the interior, while drawing inspiration from the world of classic cars and the race track; the programme helps Ferrari lovers create a truly bespoke vehicle, down to the last intricate detail.
he new Tailor-Made programme continues a tradition begun in Maranello that flourished throughout the 1950s and 60s, decades in which all cars were customised with enormous freedom in terms of fabrics, leathers, colours and finishes. The result was genuinely unique vehicles quite literally tailored around the desires of each individual owner. That glorious past is now being revived as clients are offered the opportunity to completely configure their Ferrari to their exact specifications. Full control is given over everything from exterior colour to cabin trim, via a choice of finishes and accessories in an unprecedented array of different materials, treatments and hues. The latter is, of course, the product of the Ferrari Style Centre’s ongoing research and development, which focuses on fostering the company’s core values of innovation, elegance and passion. The idea was conceived and developed by Lapo Elkann, working with a team at the Ferrari Design Centre, and his Italia Independent company, a creative factory that has already enjoyed considerable success. Creativity and the sourcing of original materials, superb artisan craftsmanship, meticulous attention to detail, research and originality are the signatures of the Tailor-Made programme which consists of three collections inspired by Ferrari’s own DNA: Scuderia, Classica and Inedita. The Scuderia collection takes its lead from Ferrari’s sporting history with inspirations from the world of motor sport. This programme is faithful to the origins of the great teams, recalling cars that are part of Formula One history. Cars like the 312T of Niki Lauda, triple World Champion, who drove his “Red” with added generous areas of white
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Experience
Overall, the Ferrari Tailor-Made gives the chance for buyers to propose his or her true look, replicating their individual interests and passions, experiment with new colours, or bring their own touch to the car.
01 From the Scuderia collection 02 Full control is given over everything from exterior colour to cabin trim 03 Choose from different finishes and accessories 04 The Tailor-Made programme continues a tradition from the 1950s and 60s
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and the stripes of the tricolore. Or the 158 F1 belonging to John Surtees, another World Champion; this time with distinctive American blue and white colour scheme. In the Scuderia line, colour is a protagonist, and the vivid red combines with yellow, blue or vibrant green. Inside, the code words are minimalism and lightness, just like on the track, where for years drivers preferred the coarse, rough suede on their seats for its adhesive powers, or perhaps simply textiles and velvets with the same characteristics. Patiently sourced textiles and hard to find leather are key parts of the made-to-order service that Ferrari is able to provide. The Classica collection, on the other hand, brings a modern twist to the styling cues and signature elements of Maranello’s iconic GT cars. When, in 1954, Roberto Rossellini commissioned a special version of the 375 MM as a wedding present for his wife Ingrid Bergman, the Carrozzeria Scaglietti created it in blue, in homage to the celebrated screen star’s eyes. However, she wanted it repainted in grey with gilded touches. Today, ‘Ingrid grigio’ is among the colour schemes available in this particular programme, together with black, cream, and various shades of green and blue. Interior options hark back to the famous masculine textiles from Biella, from the pinstriped wools, to
cashmere, velvet and a rich palette of equally precious soft leathers in natural tones or in burgundy. This classic elegance also sees the re-introduction of Borrani wheels after 35 years out of production. Lastly, the Inedita (“unique”) collection showcases more experimental and innovation-led personalisation. The freedom of choice is astonishing, spanning the spectrum from traditional luxury materials, such as cashmere, to more youthful contemporary ones of the likes of denim, and, of course, high tech innovations such as carbon-fibre. This guarantees a degree of exclusivity unmatched anywhere in the automotive sector with many of the materials being used for on cars and approved for this purpose for the very first time. Lapo Elkann took his own unique personal approach by dressing the cabin of his California in blue denim. Inedita’s black, yellow, grey and blue shades propose fresh nuances to satisfy the tastes of a “she” ever more involved in her car’s appearance. Overall, the Ferrari Tailor-Made gives the chance for buyers to propose his or her true look, replicating their individual interests and passions, experiment with new colours, or bring their own touch to the car. This is where the client’s imprint emerges through very personal codes, and their car becomes the essence of exclusivity.
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Architecture
As seasons and fashion trends change, Durrah scopes out the latest assortment of designer boutiques that will help you update your wardrobe in no time. Browse some of the finest stores across the globe, featuring beauty in everything from the products, to the spaces they are sold.
Fashion Indulgence
ON Motcomb, London ON Motcomb is a new multi-brand boutique and lavish shopping destination located in the heart of Belgravia in London, and is the sister of Bahrain fashion store AlOthman. Dedicated to luxury and attention to detail, ON Motcomb offers customers the chance to have an exclusive personal shopping experience, as well as being the first stand-alone boutique in London to exclusively carry eveningwear and gowns. The store will hold collections from international fashion houses including Balmain, Carolina Herrera, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli Couture, Jason Wu, Monique Lhuillier, Naeem Khan and Zac Posen to name a few. It will also carry a number of exclusive pieces commissioned each season, starting with Erdem and Marios Schwab. The concept for ON Motcomb was formed by Bahrain based and famed interior designer Ammar Basheir, who channelled a sense of opulence and luxury in his design.
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Known for his previous work for AlOthman Bahrain, Plums restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Bahrain, and Bahrain’s National Theatre; Bashier was inspired by the refinement of couture and craftsmanship, and aimed for a strong look with a sense of understated elegance for the store. His idea was to emulate the beauty found in a dress, which he researched by analyzing the construction of garments, until he was able to replicate a sense of this in his design. The metal screens throughout the store are a resemblance of a dress’ threads, which stand together to shape and form the glamorous atmosphere. The soft padding of a baroque pattern on the walls is a link to an old era of time, where women were celebrated in all aspects by unseen details and layers. The overall aesthetic is modern and tasteful and the muted colour scheme allows the dresses to stand out like works of art, making for a truly special shopping experience. www.on-motcomb.com
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01 The store was inspired by the refinement of couture and craftsmanship 02 Metal screens resemble a dress’ threads 03 Exclusively carrying eveningwear and gowns 04 A look of understated elegance
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Versace, Paris Versace Avenue Montaigne has reopened its doors and become the first in Europe to employ the new store concept conceived by Donatella Versace herself, in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. The 350 square meter store uses marble mosaic, brass and Perspex materials to create a modern and luxurious environment for the latest men’s and women’s ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. It is a mixture of past and future, as the opulence of traditional Italian architecture is fused with the dynamism and energy of Versace today. The stunning displays are enhanced by an exclusive lighting design by Thierry Dreyfuss, who has suspended a series of exclusive golden brass lamps around the store, reflecting the visitors and clothes in mirrors. The mosaic floor, inspired by 9th century Byzantine churches, gives the store a regal feel and contrasts from the modern Perspex walls and shelving, which appear to float above it. The circles of the mosaic floor pattern are reflected in the curved walls, and brass fittings secure the ultimate mood of luxury. Donatella Versace says, “I love that our Avenue Montaigne boutique is the first in Europe to be refreshed with the new Versace store concept. Avenue Montaigne is a true centre of fashion, and the perfect home for our opulent and dynamic store. In his designs, Jamie Fobert has created a space where the new Versace comes alive. To me, the store is like a continuing dialogue, between our past and future, between Jamie Fobert and I, and between Versace and our customers.” www.versace.com
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05 Exterior of Versace store 06 The mosaic floor was inspired by Byzantine churches 07 A mixture of past and future
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Architecture
Wall displays of custom made tiles – similar to those on the original London Underground walls – act as a colourful backdrop for collections, which are perched upon shelving fabricated from illuminated light boxes.
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08 Shelving fabricated from illuminated light boxes (image by Marcus Peel) 09 Signature Louboutin interior features are present (image by Marcus Peel) 10 Traditionally styled white street lamps act as shoe displays (image by Marcus Peel)
Christian Louboutin, Harrods, LondoN Luxury French shoe and handbag designer Christian Louboutin has opened his first standalone boutique, within the iconic London department store Harrods. Sitting adjacent to the shoe boudoir, the 140 square meter space was designed by critically acclaimed product and interior designer Lee Broom, who captured the spirit of the brand and combined it with a quintessentially British twist. The signature Christian Louboutin interior features are present including the red carpet and niched alcoves, while London landmarks are skilfully incorporated; such as traditionally styled white street lamps acting as shoe display areas, and an intricate white fanned arch-way entrance, reminiscent of Covent Garden Opera House. Wall displays of custom made tiles – similar to those on the original London Underground walls – act as a colourful backdrop for collections, which are perched upon shelving fabricated from illuminated light boxes. At the rear, paying homage to Big Ben, a giant etched glass clock face illuminates the space against the arched windows of the store. Signature pieces from the Lee Broom collection were selected by Louboutin to furnish the space including items from the Salon range, re-worked in patterned materials and a new colour palette of deep purples, greys and dusky pinks. Broom’s Tile Lamp echoes the tiled wall featured throughout the space. Whilst creating a contemporary space, the concept incorporated the traditional architecture of Harrods, with original features such as the moulded staccato ceiling evoking a sense of grandeur and drama in the space. A wall created entirely of cabinet shelves in a warm wood with antique handle details, displays a selection of exceptional archive pieces from across the designer’s career lit by the celebrated Crystal Bulbs from the Lee Broom collection. The store will also feature a private shopping room, and offer pieces exclusively designed for the Christian Louboutin Harrods store. eu.christianlouboutin.com
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11 The cottage-like boutique 12 The blue colour is reminiscent of the Saint Tropez sea 13 Exquisite jewellery and timepieces on display
Bulgari, St. Tropez July saw the opening of brand new Bulgari boutique in Saint Tropez, which was celebrated with a special party of VIP guests, and permeated by the glamorous atmosphere of the French Riviera. The ribbon cutting ceremony was attended to by actors Juliette Binoche, Hilary Swank and Jeremy Irons. In the entrance of the boutique, a blue star engraved in the floor welcomed the guests – echoing the star in black onyx that featured at the legendary Bulgari flagship store, which opened in Rome in 1905. The boutique sits two stories high and is nestled on the corner of Place de la Garonne, with a Mediterranean cottage-like feel, from the sand coloured walls to a blue terrazzo floor. Inside, the iridescent azure reminiscent of the Saint Tropez sea, bathes the chairs and silk panels, and Fontana Arte bronze-and-glass wall lamps create feelings of warmth and glamour. The interior design features vintage touches such as historic advertising
campaigns from the seventies, and fifties-era Verner Panton cone chairs. For the occasion of the opening, stunning selections of magnificent Bulgari high jewellery pieces were on display. This included shimmering diamonds and exceptional precious stones in breathtaking colors from the latest Diva collection – which pays tribute to the world’s most divine celebrities of the 50s and 60s. Alongside this was an incredible necklace, featuring a 43 carats cushion sapphire. The new 750-square-foot store will offer items from the Serpenti and B.zero1 jewellery lines; with watches such as the Serpenti Tubogas for women and the Octo for men. Evening wear pieces including lacquer and enamel minaudieres, and crystalembroidered clutches will also be available. en.bulgari.com
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Cartier, Al Maryah Island Abu Dhabi Founded in 1847, The House of Cartier has been producing pieces that express a unity of style for generations no matter the differences in artistic expression. The jeweller has opened its most recent boutique in Abu Dhabi at The Galleria at Sowwah Square, Al Maryah Island, where it will continue to delight the public with the latest from its dazzling collections. The luxury destination is a new addition to the brand’s global stores line up, marking Cartier’s second boutique in Abu Dhabi and sixth in the United Arab Emirates. Cartier, known as the King of Jewellers, opened its door to the public on August 27, 2013 in a 611 square meter boutique, offering one level of ultimate magic and elegance with exceptional jewellery creations, cutting-edge timepieces, bespoke fragrances, fine objects and styled accessories. The jewellery brand is known for its distinctive and unique style, placing contemporary High Jewellery creations alongside fine watch making master pieces, in perfect continuity and bearing witness to the vitality of its creations both past and present. “We are proud to announce the opening of Cartier at The Galleria Al Maryah Island,” says Laurent Gaborit, Regional Director Cartier Middle East, India and Africa. “This opening demonstrates again the continued and growing commitment of our Maison to offer the best service to our clients in Abu Dhabi”. The Cartier boutique at The Galleria Al Maryah Island was designed by Bruno Moinard and provides a series of distinct, but interconnected environments, with a real sense of privacy and intimacy for clients. “It is a new expression of the quintessential Cartier brand image and heritage. The new space is much more than just a boutique, more than interior, more than retail. The new Cartier boutique is exactly how French architect Bruno Moinard describes it: “a spirit, a state of mind, a decoration, a style and environment.” added Laurent Gaborit. www.cartier.com
14 The second Cartier boutique to open in Abu Dhabi 15 A series of distinct, but interconnected environments 16 The facade
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Travel
Lose yourself in Paris
‘The city of lights’ or ‘the city of love’; Paris has a reputation for being many things. What better city to feature for the special fifth anniversary of Durrah, than one that is a patchwork of art, history, fashion and culture; all things loved and celebrated by the magazine. Whether it be sightseeing some of the most famous monuments in the world, a trip to the largest gallery for fine art, or just a stroll down the charming Avenue des Champs-Élysées, be prepared to lose yourself in the magic of Paris.
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hat can be said about Paris that does justice to a city that has charmed the world for centuries? A place that is rich with history, the capital of fashion, and home to some of the finest cuisine in the world, Paris is renowned for being as charming as it is inspiring. The picturesque scenery features tree shaded boulevards and wicker chair lined café terraces, while the grand public monuments remind you that this is one of the most beautiful cities on earth. Whatever the season, whether a steamy summer or snow filled winter, Paris and its 12 million inhabitants are sure to be bustling with life and activity, making it an old favourite when it comes to popular travel destinations. Walking through the streets it is immediately evident that Paris has experienced a colourful history, as old monuments and historical landmarks adorn the city, and every cobblestoned corner seems to tell a story. The unmistakable Eiffel Tower stands proud and tall and is worth taking a trip to the top, to capture some of the city’s spectacular views. The 300 metre tower was built by Gustave Eiffel for the Universal Exposition in 1889, intended to be only a temporary construction, however was thankfully saved and now remains as one of the most iconic features of the city. The Arc de Triomphe is another popular sight, exuding grandeur and offering a central view of the city Métro, while the impressive and gothic Notre Dame cathedral – complete with stone gargoyles – was the inspiration for Victor Hugo’s novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame. The Paris catacombs were constructed in Roman times as a network of tunnels to quarry high quality limestone. From the late 18th century when medieval cemeteries could no longer keep up with the
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Travel 01 Outside the Louvre museum 02 The Eiffel Tower at night 03 Notre-Dame in the snow
Whatever the season, whether a steamy summer or snow filled winter, Paris and its 12 million inhabitants are sure to be bustling with life and activity.
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Travel 04 The Saint James Hôtel 05 Musée des Arts décoratifs 06 The Arc De Triomphe 07 Place de la Concorde
For centuries the city has also attracted some of the world’s greatest artists, arriving from across the globe, to educate themselves and seek inspiration from the vast pool of artistic resources and galleries.
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growth of the city, the tunnels were used to hold bones dug up from old grave sites. Today the site has been refashioned into a place where visitors can enjoy an eerie insight into the city’s past, as they view the decorative patterns of the skulls and femurs within the tombs. The Château de Versailles, once the home of King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette is a definite must see. France’s most exquisite chateau, on the outskirts of the city, was once the centre of political power in France from 1682 until after the beginning of the French revolution. Set amidst landscaped grounds and formal gardens, and with stunning interiors including the breathtaking Hall of Mirrors, the Palace represents an extraordinary achievement of 18thcentury French design. Along with remarkable landmarks, the city is renowned for its ‘haute cuisine’, with around 85 Michelin star restaurants serving meticulously prepared and presented dishes from the world’s leading chefs. The growth of the railway in the late 19th century led to the capital becoming a focal point for immigration from France’s many different regions and culture of gastronomy. As a result, cuisine in the city is diverse, and with over 9,000 restaurants, almost every type of cuisine is on offer. Top picks include the elegant 116 year-old Comptoir de la Gastronomie, which serves treats such as caviar and truffles, or modern French cuisine at Le Jules Verne, situated on the second level of the Eiffel Tower. Enjoy one of these top restaurants or simply pick up a freshly baked pastry or bread roll from one of the many street vendours – the choice is yours. Hotel building was another result of widespread travel and tourism in the 19th century, with the luxurious Hôtel Ritz appearing in the Place Vendôme in 1898, and the Hôtel de Crillon opening its doors on the north side of the Place de la Concorde in 1909. The creation of a 5 star category and a Palace label has repositioned French hotels
on the world tourist scene, making France one of the most exquisite places to stay for vacation. The capital boasts more and more innovative, surprising and conceptual hotels offering new experiences for a stay such as at the Hôtel O by Ora-Ito, the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal or the newly refurbished Prince de Galles, amongst many others. For centuries the city has also attracted some of the world’s greatest artists, arriving from across the globe, to educate themselves and seek inspiration from the vast pool of artistic resources and galleries. Amongst the hundreds of museums in Paris housing their work, the Musée de Louvre is one that cannot be missed. Featuring around 35,000 paintings and objets d’art including Leonardo da Vinci’s well-known Mona Lisa; the Louvre is the world’s largest and arguably most important gallery for fine art. The smaller Musée d’Orsay, contains an astonishing collection of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and art nouveau masters, displayed in a renovated former railway station. Not only one of the top cities for food, hotels, art and culture, Paris is also recognised as being the fashion capital of the world. The twice yearly Paris Fashion Week, an apparel trade show, is one of the most important events on the fashion calendar and attracts fashion lovers from all around the world. A large number of high-end fashion boutiques line the streets featuring an array of the most beautiful and luxurious clothing and accessories. Many top designers have their flagship stores in the city, such as Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior with a 1200 square foot store and Sephora’s 1500 square foot store. Printemps has the largest shoe and beauty departments in Europe and designer Sonia Rykiel is considered to the “grand dame of French fashion, synonymous with Parisian fashion.” Whatever your passion, Paris has it all, so prepare to be swept away, and as Audrey Hepburn once said, “Paris is always a good idea.”
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Travel and Leisure
Holiday Havens From a safari getaway, to Paris extravagance, to luxury that’s a bit more local; whatever your holiday style, Durrah brings to you the best hotels around the world, ensuring your next stay is one to remember.
Domain Hotel, Bahrain Located in Manama’s Diplomatic Area, the sleek new Domain Bahrain Hotel opened for the first time over Eid Al Fitr, and is a locally owned and operated hotel catered to luxury clients. Taking the five-star experience to another level, the brand new 36-storey boutique hotel is a new cuttingedge hospitality concept in the Middle East, with a focus on sociability, entertainment and technology. The Domain’s slogan ‘Stay, Work, Play’ represents blurring the lines between business and leisure, as media and hospitality are all embedded into one innovative and luxurious experience. The Domain sidesteps a traditional hotel lobby for an entrance lobby, where each guest is greeted by a Domain Manager, who quickly ushers them up to their room to check them in and introduce them to their butler. Rooms and suites are all serviced by floor butlers, who handle everything once the guest is checked in. Guests are also given the chance to interact through a specially developed app, which allows
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Travel and Leisure
The Domain’s slogan ‘Stay, Work, Play’ represents blurring the lines between business and leisure, as media and hospitality are all embedded into one innovative and luxurious experience.
02 01 Lounge area in one of the rooms 02 The Domain’s suites are modern and elegant 03 The hotel’s exterior 04 Bedroom panorama
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them to customise their experience before and during their stay. The Domain’s private social platform ‘The Conversation’ will be omnipresent throughout the hotel, as guests are given the opportunity to eat, work, relax, and meet new friends at The Domain, either as a regular guest or through the club’s membership. This groundbreaking concept of social media is further emphasized by the eclectic mix of the hotelclub’s dining and entertainment outlets, with a total of nine social spaces including restaurants, lounges and night spots. The hotel is a new destination for food culture in Bahrain, with cuisines ranging from Japanese, ItalianLebanese, and with a restaurant with styles from the South of France; foodies and gourmands from around the world are promised to be spoilt for choice. Patrick de Groot, Managing Director of The Domain said, “We are thrilled about the opening of The Domain and as a team we all look forward to introducing guests and members to a our fresh, ground-breaking concept in the Middle East.” www.thedomainhotels.com
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Segera Retreat, Kenya Winner of the much coveted Newcomer Award 2013 at ITB in Berlin, The Segera Retreat is a delightful and high-end destination located in exotic East Africa. Found on Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau, the newly completed camp promises to be an absolutely unique destination, characterized by the combination of exceptional luxury, craftsmanship and an efficient implementation of sustainability practices. In the midst of Kenya’s fascinating biodiversity and wildlife, the activities offered – each tailor made and facilitated through a personal Villa Attendant – include day and night game drives, picnics, guided walks, children and family activities, a wellness center including a gym and spa, sleep outs and many more. In addition to offering exceptional game viewing and other unforgettable experiences, a visit to Segera provides unique opportunities to engage with a range of conservation activities that are ongoing both on Segera itself and in neighboring community areas. Guests may want to actively contribute to reforestation efforts by planting indigenous trees in the ‘Wangari
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Maathi Memorial Forest’ at the Zeitz Foundation Headquarters, or take part in daily tracking and monitoring activities of the endangered Patas Monkey or Grevy’s Zebra. Luxury is still the top priority at Segera, with six timber and thatch villas on offer, which gaze out over the Laikipia Plateau towards the spectacular Mount Kenya. Each villa is individually curated with art from Africa’s most inspiring artists and features a large bedroom and en-suite bathroom, a private sun deck in the garden with sun loungers and a Jacuzzi bath. All villas run on solar energy, with sustainably harvested and recycled water. Guests are further spoiled for choice with a spa, gym and central pool offering an outdoor dining area with a deck and sun loungers. Meals and private dining are served al fresco in a number of locations throughout the Retreat, and the superb cuisine comprises Segera’s unique 4C dining menu, with a variety of delicious and healthy meals. The Segera retreat is where adventure meets luxury, and the perfect place for a first class getaway. www.segera.com
05 Private lunch at the stables 06 Wooden style bedroom 07 Rustic dining for two 08 Modern and spacious bathrooms 09 The stable lounge area 10 The pool area
The newly completed camp promises to be an absolutely unique destination, characterized by the combination of exceptional luxury, craftsmanship and an efficient implementation of sustainability practices.
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12 11 Hotel exterior at nightfall 12 Comfortable and luxurious suites 13 A true palace 14 Relax along the longest beach in the country 15 Special outdoor dining at the seaside
Al Bustan Palace, Oman Described as the ‘Jewel of the Sultanate of Oman’, the Al Bustan Palace lies solitary on a stunning stretch of coastline with 200 acres of lush beachfront landscaping, against a dramatic mountain backdrop. A Ritz Carlton Hotel, the Al Bustan Palace is noted architecturally for its 38-meter high domed atrium lobby, and has undergone a multi- million dollar refurbishment in 2008 to both the interior and exterior. Home to visiting heads of state and members of royalty, the hotel showcases new furnishings that artistically fuse elements from both local traditions and art deco influences, blending the richness of Arabian culture, art and history. In addition to the 250 spacious rooms and suites – all of which feature their own private balcony – the hotel offers meeting and banquet facilities for up to 1000 guests, and is home to the longest beach in the country. With over 4,000 square meters of function space, including 16 meeting rooms and a video conference facility, the resort is an ideal locale for grand affairs as well as intimate gatherings. From
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the largest ballroom in Oman to stunning gardens for outside events, the meeting space offers unrivalled ambiance, attention to detail and renowned RitzCarlton service. A creative culinary team, Technology Butler, and dedicated Conference Concierge are on hand to facilitate a seamless meeting. As the centre of all leisure, cultural and water sport activities in Muscat, recreational facilities include five swimming pools, a well-appointed spa, a water sports centre, and a Tennis Village with four floodlit courts. Guests are treated to the finest culinary cuisine at the resort. Al Khiran Terrace is an all-day, indoor/ outdoor dining restaurant overlooking the sea of Oman. Nestled right by the water’s edge, the Beach Pavilion serves the freshest fish and seafood, while China Mood features authentic Chinese cuisine in a sophisticated, yet comfortable setting. Al Bustan Palace is a recognized premier destination in Muscat and had established itself as a popular venue and attraction for everyone from leisure travellers to business guests. www.ritzcarlton.com/albustanpalace
Home to visiting heads of state and members of royalty, the hotel showcases new furnishings that artistically fuse elements from both local traditions and art deco influences.
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Travel and Leisure
Park Hyatt VendOme, PARIS Located in the heart of Paris, on the famous Rue de la Paix, stands the renowned 156-room Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme. A short stroll from Place Vendôme, the Opera House and the exclusive shops on Faubourg St. Honoré, the hotel combines classic Parisian style with well known interior designer Ed Tuttle’s imaginative flair. Together with Hyatt, Tuttle’s vision for Vendôme was to build a hotel that reflected the pristine qualities of Parisian lifestyle, using fine craftsmanship to create a timeless, majestic aura throughout. Five different buildings from the Hausmanian period have been transformed into a single, handsome structure, which has created a unity of symmetrically balanced spaces, high ceilings and impressive courtyards, all of which reinforce the hotel’s quiet palatial character. All rooms have spacious closets, state of the art entertainment systems, satellite television and highspeed Internet access. The two-story Presidential Suite’s imposing entrance (six meters high and wide) on the sixth floor, opens onto an ultra luxurious haven featuring two fireplaces, stone staircases, patterned floors, and three small terraces.
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16 The Park Suite 17 Lunch on the terrace 18 Bedroom (image by John Nollet) 19 Hotel lounge area 20 Hotel exterior
The two-story Presidential Suite’s imposing entrance (six meters high and wide) on the sixth floor, opens onto an ultra luxurious haven featuring two fireplaces, stone staircases, patterned floors, and three small terraces.
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Bathrooms feature sliding mahogany floor-toceiling ‘disappearing doors’, and classic French limestone complements matte bronze fixtures that have been specially commissioned for the hotel. Heated floors, deepsoaking tubs and stone-enclosed rain showers – with sinks for in-shower shaving – give guests the feeling of bathing in a private water wonderland. The hotel is also home to eight function rooms named and designed after precious and semi-precious stones, a fully equipped spa and gym, and some of the finest restaurants in Paris, including the Michelin starred Le Pur’. Recently accepted into the prestigious Palace Hotels Group, Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme is one of the most visually stunning luxury hotels Paris has to offer. www.paris.vendome.hyatt.com
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Spas 01 Each spa room has its own private steam room and treatment area 02 The tranquillity garden 03 The architecture is a tribute to the ancient Moorish palaces
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Everyone needs a chance to rest and relax sometimes, and what better way than to indulge in a truly healing and soothing spa experience. Treat yourself to a session with one of the world’s premium hotel spas and experience the ultimate in rejuvenation, where treatments are more than skin deep.
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Amara Spa at Park Hyatt, Dubai The luxury Amara spa at Park Hyatt Dubai is a true sanctuary of luxury and tranquility. Set within idyllic surroundings on the banks of the Dubai Creek, Amara offers a variety of treatments that are as soothing to the body as they are to the soul. The architecture of Amara is a magnificent tribute to the ancient Moorish palaces, where exotic rituals were created to stimulate all the senses. The spa was conceived with the local clientele in mind, with privacy and tranquility cited as top priorities. With facilities, treatments and indulgent elegance unrivalled in Dubai, Amara offers the ultimate luxury spa experience. It features eight spacious luxury suites, each with its own private outdoor terrace, lounge area, and indoor and outdoor rain showers, from which guests can appreciate the solitude and peace of their private space while enjoying the lavish rituals on offer. The spa is also home to a stunning 25-metre swimming pool featuring a series of built-in palm islands. A unique sense of place is provided by the exquisitely designed Park Hyatt Dubai and its breathtaking views of the infamous Creek. With its adjoining private courtyards and cascading water features, Amara is in perfect harmony with the sophisticated retreat atmosphere of the hotel. In addition to Amara, Park Hyatt Dubai also features eight Spa Rooms, making it the only hotel
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in Dubai to provide such an option. Each Spa Room comes complete with facilities that enable guests to enjoy a premium spa experience without leaving the privacy of their room. The Spa Rooms are, in essence, personal wellness sanctuaries, each with its own private steam room and treatment area, as well as stunning views of the Dubai Creek from their balconies. An exclusive and extensive menu of Amara treatments can be administered by skilled therapists in these unique spaces. Amara focuses on rituals using only the finest treatments and therapies combined with indigenous Arabian touches. Exclusive to Amara, the Anne Semonin range uses the vital forces of fresh herbs, plants and seaweeds to awaken the senses with unique formulations personalised for individual skin types. Aromatherapy Associates, whose diverse treatments are underpinned by traditional aromatherapy massage techniques, completes the top-of-the-range product ensemble on offer at Amara. Amara promises to take its guests on a journey of the senses with the optimum spa experiences, rituals and apothecary available. This spa provides exceptional treatments and an unparalleled level of service, solidifying its stance as one of the top spa destinations in the United Arab Emirates. www.dubai.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas
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04 The spa features architectural curves and rounded furnishings (image by Guillaume de Laubier)
Spa Valmont pour Le Meurice, Paris Ideally located in the centre of Paris inside Le Meurice, a Dorchester Collection hotel, Spa Valmont is a haven of tranquility extending over 340 square meters, decorated in soothing shades that mix bronze, celadon green and beige with accents of gold. The sense of welcome and comfort is immediate, thanks to architectural curves and generously rounded furnishings. Opening onto a delightful landscaped terrace and bathed in natural light throughout, the spa is equipped with three luxurious treatment suites including one double suite for ultimate intimacy. A nail bar, stateof-the-art fitness room, sauna and two hammams covered with sumptuous pearly Bissaza mosaic complement the many opportunities to unwind. For unconditional relaxation, guests can cocoon in the comfort of the two rest areas or, why not, after a sauna or hammam, enjoy the invigorating virtues of the ice fountain, a nod at Valmont’s “Élixir des glaciers” antiageing treatments. The most avant-garde skincare specialist indulges loyal customers with an extensive range of quality treatments, offering the extreme effectiveness of advanced cellular care. Femininity, serenity and well-being prevail in the boutique’s refined and welcoming surroundings, where each of the Valmont treatment ranges is presented
together with the star products that continue to forge the brand’s reputation, including the astonishing collagen-rich Regenerating Mask Treatment. The Valmont pour Le Meurice boutique also proposes the revolutionary multi-action Time Master Intensive Program, exclusive in France, not forgetting a selection of new IL PROFVMO fragrances that flirt with the iconic Elixir des glaciers. Exclusive to Le Meurice is their ‘Bulle Émotionnelle’ treatment, a special and completely revitalising facial protocol. After gently releasing tension with a facial drainage, therapists dip their expert hands into ice and, with incredible lightness of touch, ease the area around the eyes to restore youthful firmness. The treatment continues with facial modelling and Valmont’s Renewing Pack for almost instantly radiant skin. Little by little, the intense cooling sensation of the menthol in the mask is balanced by the natural warmth of the hands as they massage the face. A hot towel wrap further enhances the sensation of absolute wellness. The final act in this exceptional, personalized treatment is the careful application of a serum and skincare whose active ingredients are exactly suited to the skin’s karyotype. Spa Valmont at Le Meurice offers an indulgent spa experience that will leave you feeling refreshed, rejuvenated, making you into the best version of yourself. www.lemeurice.com/spa-fitness
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Spa at Four Seasons Hotel, London 05 Stressed oak wood floors contrast the natural grey stone tiles 06 The location has an unrivalled rooftop position and view over the city 07 A one of a kind urban sanctuary
Few pleasures in life can match an exceptional spa experience. From the moment you arrive at the Spa at the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane you enter a world of discovery and a sheer indulgence of the senses. The extraordinary and innovative addition of the hotel’s 10th floor is home to a one of a kind urban sanctuary that includes the Spa, lounge and a cutting edge fitness centre. The location itself sets it apart from anything else in the city with its unrivalled rooftop position and wow factor view over the city, which is second to none. Acclaimed London designer and architect Eric Parry has created a fluid and diaphanous environment in which spa guests can relax and rejuvenate. Inspired by the influence of the surrounding parklands he has made dramatic use of natural materials that are indigenous to the area. Calling it his ‘space in the sky’ Parry further describes the Spa as a ‘floating ribbon of glass at parapet level with a satin overhang giving it a feeling of levitation’. From the soothing water sculpture in the reception lobby to the stressed oak wood floors and natural grey stone tiles that connect with the trees and boulders in Hyde
Park, Parry has brilliantly brought the outdoors in, setting it against the stunning backdrop of the London skyline. The state of the art Spa features nine treatment rooms, each with floor to ceiling windows that make spa guests feel as if they are nestled in the tree tops from their rooftop vantage point. If complete privacy during treatments is preferred, a custom-designed curtain system darkens the room and provides peace and solitude away from the distractions of the breath taking views. Each treatment room is accompanied by an individual relaxation pod – an intimate sanctuary in which to enjoy personal quiet time and continue the post therapy wellness journey. Special elements which make this spa experience quite unique include the Sky Suite, a double-size treatment for couples or friends to enjoy together; a soak in an ozone treated vitality pool; even the sauna – the smallest room in the hotel - has a window on the world and for the best seat in the house, take a chair by the fireside in the relaxation lounge and just enjoy. www.fourseasons.com/london/spa/
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Yachts
140 years at the front From humble beginnings, Benetti has grown to become one of the most famous and well-regarded builders of luxury motor yachts in the world and this year celebrates their 140th anniversary. Through times of turbulence, upheaval and technological revolution, Benetti learned to not only survive, but thrive, as they kept up with the latest in advanced innovation, proving they have what it takes to be the best. Durrah reflects on the progress of the business over the years, and has an exclusive chat to CEO Vincenzo Poerio.
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orenzo Benetti opened the first Benetti shipyard in Viareggio, Italy in 1873, building large wooden sailing ships known as the famous ‘barcobestia’ for local and international shipping. After his death, Lorenzo’s two sons Gino and Emilio took over the management of the boatyard and began building commercial sailing ships. They changed the name to Fratelli Benetti and quickly built up a reputation that extended far beyond the Mediterranean. After the Second World War however, commercial sailing vessels built from wood were simply obsolete, threatening the success of Fratelli Benetti. The company responded by adapting to the times, and changing their direction radically, to begin producing pleasure crafts from steel. It was in the early 1960s that the boatyard produced its first luxury mega yachts and quickly established its name as a leader in the 30 to 60 meter range market segment and beyond. Their success in this area did not mean that the time for change was over. In 1985, the shipyard was acquired by the celebrated Turin-based boat builder Azimut Yachts. New management transformed Benetti into the modern, technologically advanced reality we know today: a forward-thinking and innovative boatyard that proudly builds on and adapts its traditional values of experience, skill and passion for fine craftsmanship. For Benetti, building yachts means carrying on the tradition of innovation, style and quality that has shaped the company’s approach. It means continuing to diversify production in order to satisfy the increasingly complex needs expressed by Owners throughout the world.
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01 Imagination, FB501, 47m Superyacht, launched in 2010 02 1941 - The Benetti shipyard launches “Maria”, pioneering the first steel hulled, diesel vessel. Maurizio and Bertani manage the project 03 1873 - Lorenzo Benetti buys and establishes the shipyard Darsena Lucca 04 1927 - After Gino Benetti’s passing, his sons Giuseppe and Virgilio take his place, while Emilio’s sons Maurizio and Bertani assist their father 05 1979 – “Nabila” is launched. With exquisite interiors, she is 86 meters long and displaces 2,465 tons. Designed by Jon Bannenberg for Adnan Kashoggi, “Nabila” becomes the most famous yacht of her time
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For Benetti, building yachts means carrying on the tradition of innovation, style and quality that has shaped the company’s approach.
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06 06 1988 The Benetti shipyard builds the “Azimut Atlantic Challenger” to attempt the Blue Riband trophy for the fastest crossing of the Atlantic 07 Ambrosia, launched 1994
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After abandoning wood and being the first to realise the potential of composite materials for the production of mega yachts in the 60s, Benetti then made the transition from metal boats to the steel and aluminium. Today Benetti utilizes these materials to design and build full-custom displacement and semidisplacement motor yachts in a variety of lengths from 93 feet to 90+ meters. These truly tailor made vessels embody the Owner’s idea of what a yacht should be, while retaining the Benetti family-feeling. This production capacity, united with world class quality, fanatical attention to detail and a perfect end result, have made Benetti a world leader and an Italian luxury yacht icon. Over the years the shipyard has grown and changed, not just keeping up with the times, but staying ahead of them. Over the past 140 years, Benetti has had close to 300 boats built, established production facilities that cover over 300,000 square meters in six boatyards across Italy, and have 34 yachts under construction at the present time, including a 90 meter mega yacht. It is a success story confirmed by the last ‘Global Order Book’ that awarded the Azimut Benetti Group as the “largest builder in the world for custom yachts over 24 meters” for the thirteenth year in a row. From starting out as the Fratelli Benetti boatyard famous for building three-masted wooden schooners, to becoming Benetti motor yachts and turning heads at the world’s most famous and exclusive ports of call, Benetti yachts are well established at the height of Italian Excellence.
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This production capacity, united with world class quality, fanatical attention to detail and a perfect end result, have made Benetti a world leader and an Italian luxury yacht icon.
Durrah talks to CEO Vincenzo Poerio What does true luxury mean to you? Simply the privilege to own a good that is one of a kind, perfectly crafted on individual needs, taste and desires and able to express the owner’s unique personality. In this light, I’d like to mention Benetti’s current advertising headline: “being unique is an art”.
How has Benetti developed in innovation, technology and design over the years? Innovation has been and still is a fundamental element of Benetti’s DNA since the foundation in 1873, and it’s still a positive tension that lies in every employee and every area of the company. In the past it was moving from commercial sailing vessels to pleasure luxury yachts at the beginning of the 19th century, or anticipating the future understanding the potentiality of steel compare to wood in the 60s. More recently, it was being the first on the market to adopt composite material to create our Class Range and developing over the years a wide range of pleasure semicustom yachts, from 93 -145 feet, with a strong Benetti’s family feeling. Then, during recent years, new ideas and innovations continued tirelessly to flow.
Heading a company that is 140 years old is not a simple task. How do you manage? It’s all about people! First of all, we have been using a lot of energy selecting and recruiting the best talents in the industry. Then, every professional working with us is simply immersed in our company culture in order to become a Benetti’s excellence ambassador. And this is valid from the receptionists to the executives. The result is a strong and unique team spirit that every day and in every operational area simply hand down original company values, devoted to world class quality and impeccable customer service.
The global financial crisis has not helped many luxury brands. How did you manage during this time? We are constantly growing despite the general economic downturn. Our Clientele of Ultra High NetWorth Individuals is mainly composed by “old money” whose economical power has not been (significantly) affected. In addition, our Clients are “mature” Owners (4/5 yachts before average) and super-yachts are a great passion that simply you can’t resist. Last but not least, Benetti has very loyal customers!
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08 Benetti Yard in Viareggio, Darsena Italia 09 Delfino, 2011
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Do you think the market for yachts is expanding in the Middle East? Yes, no doubt. That’s also why in March this year we decided to further consolidate our presence in the area by opening a new office in Dubai and appointing Nabil el Jammal as Area Manager for the Middle East. The opening of a new direct sales point is of particular strategic importance as it covers the Middle East area even more efficiently, consolidating the historic presence of the Azimut Benetti Group, which since the 1980’s was one of the first movers in the area. To best pursue this important objective, Benetti has brought Nabil el Jammal on board. An established professional in the nautical world, with great experience in the Middle East markets, Jammal will manage the commercial office, with direct responsibility for the Arab Gulf Region markets as far as Turkey, including both Egypt and Lebanon.
At what level right now do you think the interest in yachting is in the Middle East? The Middle East is recovering slowly but steadily its pre-crisis position. Please realize we build and sell a small number of yachts, so we need to observe carefully purely numerical averages. One sale can radically change a percentage. What we do notice is that the quality and quantity of real prospects is growing in the Middle East and that is very encouraging.
What do you think sets the Middle East apart in terms of preference for style and design? In terms of design and style I would definitely confirm that personal preferences are really not as geographical as they used to be. Obviously there are social, religious, even gastronomical cultural differences among the Middle East customers and others, but nowadays a 50 year old businessman of Doha, has a taste that is remarkably similar to a 50 year old entrepreneur of London or Lisbon.
Where do you see the future of the Azimut Group headed? Innovation, innovation, innovation! Maintaining and constantly improving quality, customer service and brand reputation.
+973 77033333
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Sport
Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge welcomes Naples The Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge is the leading international circuit for vintage and classic sailing crafts, and for the ninth consecutive year Officine Panerai is sponsoring an extraordinary calendar of races, attracting the attention of thousands of yachtsmen and women, journalists and enthusiasts. Increasing the excitement this year is the addition of new host city Naples, which joined the PCYC’s Mediterranean circuit, adding a list of new events to its ranks.
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ollowing on from Les Voiles d’Antibes on the Côte d’Azur and the Argentario Sailing Week at Porto Santo Stefano (Italy), the third round of the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge coincided with the 10th edition of Le Vele d’Epoca a Napoli between June 27th and 30th. Le Vele d’Epoca a Napoli is organised in Naples by the prestigious Reale Yacht Club Canottieri Savoia, which was founded 120 years ago and is renowned for the many heads of state, prime ministers, ambassadors, stars of stage and screen, and leading cultural figures it has attracted to its ranks in its long history. A total of 34 Vintage (launched before 1950), Classic (launched between 1950 and 1975) and Spirit of Tradition (recently built, but inspired by the lines and designs of the past) craft converged on the city’s Santa Lucia quay. All of the scheduled races were held in the Bay of Naples and were watched from the city waterfront with Mount Vesuvius providing a magnificent backdrop to the east. The glorious fleet battled for a plethora of trophies and prizes, the most coveted of which were the watches put up by Officine Panerai for the overall winners of the different classes.
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04 01 A total of 34 yachts competed in all four races 02 The glorious fleet battled for a plethora of trophies and prizes 03 Weather was in good condition, with winds of around 10-12 knots 04 All of the scheduled races were held in the Bay of Naples 05 Races were watched from the city waterfront with Mount Vesuvius providing a magnificent backdrop to the east
The yachts competed in all four races in good conditions with winds of around 10-12 knots. The racing was over mixed triangle and long coastal courses with passages all the way to the Scoglio del Vervece, a tiny rocky islet just off Massa Lubrense, or in the waters off the Rotonda Diaz on Naples’ Via Caracciolo, casting off from and returning to the Bay of Pozzuoli. The final day’s racing was preceded by a Naval Parade that provided spectators ashore with the opportunity to admire the stunning classic and vintage fleet in its entirety. The two winning boats in the standings valid for the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge Trophy 2013 were Sirius (1937) in the Vintage category and Bufeo Blanco in the Classic. Both took home an Officine Panerai watch as their prize. Built in the USA to a design by the legendary Sparkman & Stephens, Sirius is a New York 32, a class penned in the 1930s as the official boat of the New York Yacht Club. Bufeo Blanco, on the other hand, is a Bermudan cutter designed and built in Liguria (Italy) in 1963 by Sangermani.
The other winning yachts in the various subcategories included; Manitou, the 1937 yawl on which President J.F. Kennedy did his sailing in the 1950s and 60s, in the Vintage Yacht with Seconds Per Mile over 15; the 1965 Chin Blu III in the Classic Yachts with Spm (Seconds per mile) under 15 and, lastly, Stella Polare, the Italian Navy’s historic yawl, also built in 1965, which took first place in the Classic Yachts with Spm over 15. Victory in Friday’s long race also won Stella Polare the Admiral Angelo Lattarulo Trophy, named in honour of a very active supporter and frequenter of classic sailing regattas. Eilean, the Officine Panerai’s 1936 two-masted brand ambassador, not only finished second in her class but also took the Naval Parade prize, while the 1911 gaff cutter Mariquita won the prize for the longest yacht entered (31 metres). The 1936 International 12-Metre Class Vanity V was awarded the Marina Yachting Prix d’Elegance. The excitement continued, as the third edition
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of the Coppa d’Oro Eduardo Pepe (named in honour of the former president of the Yacht Club Canottieri Savoia) also took place during the Vele d’Epoca a Napoli. Reserved for Dragons, a class of elegant nine-metre keelboats designed in Norway in 1929, and held on a separate course, the competition spanned a total of eight races with the 1963 Dragon Buriana easily holding sway over the rest of the fleet to take a very well deserved victory in her 50th year. Burania was followed in the rankings by Tergeste (1950) and Ausonia (1948), the first Dragon to be built in Italy and recently sent for restoration by Pippo Dalla Vecchia, current president of the Reale Yacht Club Canottieri Savoia. After a busy three rounds in June (Les Voiles d’Antibes, Argentario Sailing Week and Le Vele d’Epoca a Napoli), the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge continues in August with a call to Minorca (X Copa del Rey, Spain, 27th-31st August) in the build-up to the season grand finale at Cannes on the Côte d’Azur to decide the official Mediterranean Circuit winners for 2013.
All of the scheduled races were held in the Bay of Naples and were watched from the city waterfront with Mount Vesuvius providing a magnificent backdrop to the east.
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Special Event
The Goodwood Festival of Speed This year the world’s most popular motor sport and car culture event, the Goodwood Festival of Speed, celebrated their 20th anniversary as the event took place from 11-14 July. The festival welcomed over 185,000 spectators, more than 150 star drivers and riders, plus over 500 spectacular vehicles, for a thrilling weekend hosted at Goodwood House in West Sussex, England.
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otor racing first came to Goodwood in 1936 when the Earl of March held a private hill-climb through the Park. Five years earlier he had won the prestigious Brooklands Double 12 race and in 1948, as the Duke of Richmond, he opened the Goodwood Motor Circuit, for the UK’s very first public motor race meeting post-War. These early events inspired his grandson Charles March to revive motor sport in the Goodwood Park and resulted in the first Festival of Speed, held in 1993. Over the next 20 years, the Goodwood Festival of Speed became the biggest international celebration of car culture and motor racing in the world. Held in the beautiful parkland surrounding Goodwood House, the Festival of Speed has been described as the Garden Party of the Gods and is now a fixture on the summer social calendar. The 2013 Festival of Speed focused on highlights from the Goodwood event’s glittering history. The biggest, best, fastest, loudest and most outrageous vehicles of all time were invited back to West Sussex specifically for this weekend, making it an event like no other. Star cars and motorcycles, plus past and present
drivers and riders from each of the world’s major motor sport disciplines, all featured at Goodwood, including champions from Formula 1, Indycar, the World Rally Championship, Superbikes, NASCAR, World Sports Cars and Touring Cars. Goodwood recaptured many of the outstanding Festival of Speed moments from the 1993-2012 era, including over 350 great machines from across the world, as far flung as New Zealand, Zimbabwe, Japan and the USA. The Festival also saw many famous man and machine pairings reunited, including three-time Formula 1 World Champion Nelson Piquet returning to the cockpit of his celebrated Brabham BT52, in which he secured the 1983 crown. The event celebrated all manner of memorable and often outrageous - contraptions on the 1.16-mile hill-climb, with a truly diverse range of vehicles, from pioneering steam cars and Land Speed Record racers to Dakar trucks – and even a Soapbox racer or two – in additional to historic dragsters doing burn-outs outside Goodwood House.
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The biggest, best, fastest, loudest and most outrageous vehicles of all time were invited back to West Sussex specifically for this weekend, making it an event like no other.
01 Porsche central display 02 The Goodwood hill climb 03 Vintage models on display at the hill climb 04 The Bentley Speed 8 05 Bentley Continental
The Michelin Supercar Paddock once again offered a mouth-watering selection of the world’s most recent and sought-after high performance cars, including the dynamic world debut of the exciting new McLaren P1, and gave the rare chance to see them in action on Goodwood’s famous hill-climb. At the top of the Hill, Goodwood made significant layout and content developments to the Top Paddock and Forest Rally Stage, which once again featured the greatest cars and drivers from the history of rallying. On two wheels, motorcycles again provided some of the most dramatic action of the Festival weekend, with world champion riders aboard the most iconic machines of the last century. Away from the action on the Hill, the Cartier ‘Style et Luxe’ concours d’elegance provided a bastion of cultured calm as always, with some of the world’s most extraordinary vehicles displayed in relaxed surroundings, accompanied by a soundtrack of fine jazz. As on the Hill, the selection of cars on the Cartier Lawn celebrated the very best content from the first 20 years of the Festival of Speed, and included very rare UK appearances for the Phantom Corsair and Binder-bodied Bugatti Type 41 Royale Coupe de Ville.
The immensely popular Goodwood Action Sports (GAS) Arena is now bigger and better than ever, and offered even more high-octane two-wheeled entertainment. Also enlarged and improved for 2013 was the Aviation Exhibition, which was more centrally located within the Festival of Speed site to further reinforce Goodwood’s indelible links with aviation and its history. All this, along with a host of vehicles and competitors new to Goodwood, and a number of unexpected treats, provided a fitting birthday party for the world’s greatest celebration of motor sport history and car culture. Goodwood Festival of Speed founder Lord March said, “I really can’t believe that we’ve been staging the Festival of Speed for 20 years already; the time has simply flown by! I wasn’t too certain if anyone would be interested in coming along to our very first event back in 1993. We expected around 2,500 people, and over 25,000 turned up! Today the Festival attracts over 185,000 enthusiastic and knowledgeable spectators, which I just could not have imagined way back in 1993. I think it is safe to say that the event now looks like it is here to stay!”
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Accessories
Treasures for the tabletop
Constant curiosity has made legendary fashion and textile designer Mariano Fortuny as varied as he is prolific. First a painter, then an etcher, a sculptor, a photographer, an architect and inventor, today’s narrow definition of artist cannot adequately describe the Spaniard, who entered the industry back in 1907. The textiles that Fortuny conceived are still manufactured today in the original factory, on the same machines and using the same secret processes and techniques that he developed a century ago. Now his designs are revisited in a new collection of tableware by luxury company L’Objet.
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he brilliant, enigmatic Mariano Fortuny was born into a family of renowned artists in Granada, Spain, in 1871. Although he quickly proved talented as a painter, it soon became apparent that painting was only one of his many artistic gifts. After his father’s untimely death in 1874, Mariano moved to Paris with his mother and sister. In 1889, they moved again, this time to Venice, where Fortuny established himself for the rest of his career. He continued his steadfast passion for the fine arts until he passed away at his home in Venice, in May of 1949. After his passing in 1949, his widow, Henriette, convinced that the work of her husband must continue, passed the company on to the American designer Elsie McNeill Lee, later Countess Elsie Lee Gozzi or ‘The Countess’ as she was known. The Countess passed the company on to her close friend and lawyer Maged F. Riad, whose sons Mickey and Maury have been running the company since 1998. With an eye on the future and their footing firmly rooted in the illustrious history of the company, the
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Riad brothers have managed to approach their work with a fresh outlook, while remaining steadfastly committed to the traditions of their founder. The production of Fortuny textiles was the culmination of Mariano’s knowledge of engineering, color, design, and art, into one manifestation of pure artistic genius; which managed to catch the eye of young designer Elad Yifrach. Yifrach founded luxury American tabletop company L’Objet in 2004, and after spending two years studying motifs created by Fortuny in the company’s 92 year old archives, has translated the art into his work. Creating everything from shapely serving platters to cocktail picks embellished with amazonite beads, Yifrach has inventively reinterpreted the protean master’s multicultural work. A carafe is ornamented with details taken from Rabat, a fabric pattern that is a riff on Moroccan embroidery. A magnified section of the tattoo like print Maori enlivens a plate. The slinky Delphos gown, created around 1907, is reflected in the line, too, its silk pleats channeled into a striking black bisque vessel for scented candles. Yifrach said of the collection, “Mariano Fortuny reveals a deep and kindred connection that transcends time. It sets the pattern and pace of this collaboration. Life is short, art is long. In these objects you will soon hold in your hands, it is this we hope to capture, something ancient and mysterious, and intensely humane. They are to be enjoyed and shared.” www.l-objet.com
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The production of Fortuny textiles was the culmination of Mariano’s knowledge of engineering, color, design, and art, into one manifestation of pure artistic genius.
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01 Fabric covered boxes with metal details 02 1-tier server 03 Patterned to perfection – an assortment of Fortuny products 04 Canape and Dessert Plates 05 Pleats Candle - De Medici Red
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Dining
Dining at its finest Durrah explores some of the most enticing new dining destinations around the world, with a mouth watering selection of restaurants that offer the best quality and excellence in food, atmosphere and service.
Alder, New York Alder, the second restaurant from Chef Wylie Dufresne of the acclaimed wd-50, opened in New York’s East Village earlier this year. Designed by architect Jennifer Carpenter, the 56seat neighbourhood spot is a modern interpretation of a traditional tavern, offering a selection of intriguing menu items and well-crafted drinks in a casual and elegant ambience. Dufresne, who opened his cutting-edge restaurant wd-50 in 2003, again applies innovative techniques in the kitchen at Alder, taking familiar dishes and flavour combinations and presenting them in his own unique style, celebrating New York City’s diverse food culture in the process. Dufresne finds inspiration in his metropolitan surroundings: New York is a city where he can source incredible ingredients from around the world and turn them into something novel and distinctly American. The mission at Alder is simple: serve delicious, affordable food that guests will want to return to week after week. A Caesar salad–inspired Caesar Nigiri made with Spanish mackerel for example, or Chicken
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01 Restaurant interior 02 Designed by architect Jennifer Carpenter 03 Fried cauliflower (image by Daniel Krieger)
Liver Toast made with cornbread and grapefruit marmalade. In keeping with the Alder philosophy, no dish will exceed $25 USD. Alder is familiar territory for Dufresne—he attended high school nearby and lived in the East Village for 15 years—and it is this sense of community and home that defines it. The room is full of personal touches. The ceiling is made from wood collected at his business partner’s farm; the shingles on the door are reminiscent of those on the bedroom wall of his childhood home; the enamelware coffee cups reference camping trips in New England. Even closer to home, the restaurant is named after Dufresne’s daughter Ellery, the Old-English form of Alder. Diners can expect a comfortable and refined dining experience, with a chance to have all their favourite dishes, made with an innovative and gourmet touch. www.aldernyc.com
The mission at Alder is simple: serve delicious, affordable food that guests will want to return to week after week.
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Guests have the option of dining on the terrace overlooking the pool and sea, or indoor dining, which features an open live cooking kitchen.
Wok, Sofitel Bahrain Just over two years since first opening its doors, the Sofitel Bahrain has proven to be an extremely popular place for dining on the island, offering a wide variety of cuisines and delicious dishes across its selection of restaurants and bars. South East Asian restaurant Wok offers a menu is that is 60% Vietnamese ‘Traditional Hue Cuisine’ and 40% Thai/Malaysian & Indonesian dishes. Hue cuisine is regarded as the best in Vietnam, and pays much attention to aestheticism and harmony among the ingredients, creating a feast for the eyes as well as being a healthy choice. Under the direction of experienced Chef Minh Duong – popularly known as Bruce – Wok offers an a la carte menu of 44 dishes, with set menus available for groups over ten. Guests are given the opportunity to sample all four South East Asian cuisines within one meal –a concept unique in Bahrain – through the ‘family style’ dining, where a number of dishes are placed in the centre of the table and shared. Popular starters include ‘GoiVit’, a salad of duck breast, banana blossom, young papaya and bean sprouts, and ‘GoiBuoi’, a salad of pomelo, chicken and shrimp. ‘Bo luc lac’, which translates to ‘shaking beef’ and ‘Cha ca La vong’, sea bass marinated with turmeric, galangal, shallots and shrimp paste, cooked over charcoal, are the two favourite main dishes. All of this can be enjoyed in the trendy yet genuinely Asian atmosphere, with a perfect combination of stone and wood décor, as well as art and craftworks that reflect the Asian culture and hospitality. The interior design is exquisite; with hand-painted walls so detailed they look like wallpaper. Guests have the option of dining on the terrace overlooking the garden and pool, or indoor dining, which features an open live cooking kitchen. Two private dining rooms are also on offer, for special occasions and private functions. Visit Wok to experience a spectacle of flavours, and for an authentic and delicious taste of South East Asian cuisine. www.sofitel.com/gb/middle-east/index.shtml
04 Vietnamese rice paper rolls 05 A perfect combination of stone and wood dĂŠcor 06 One of the private dining rooms
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Dining 07 ‘Red Lantern’ - Crispy soft-shell crab with Sichuan dried chilli 08 Hutong’s dramatic interior
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Hutong, London The fascinating and diverse cuisine of Northern China is brought to London with new restaurant Hutong, opening in London June 2013 on Level 33 of The Shard. The 130-cover restaurant was created by David Yeo, founder of Aqua Restaurant Group, and takes its inspiration from the dishes served in the imperial palaces of what was then Peking. Based on the ‘Lu school’ cuisine of Shandong Province, which is renowned for its seafood and vinegars, and with influences from Sichuan Province, which is famous for its fiery spices and peppers, the menu at Hutong artfully captures the subtlety and surprises of Northern Chinese cooking. The restaurant is named after Beijing’s ancient hutongs – the now fast-disappearing narrow lanes which crisscrossed the city, revealing old family houses, grand courtyards and life within. Hutong’s dramatic interior design blends the old and new with panoramic views over the London skyline, from Western Europe’s tallest building. Based on the muchloved restaurant of the same name in Hong Kong, this site is the first overseas location for Hutong, regarded as one of the world’s leading Chinese restaurants. David Yeo has created the innovative menu alongside Hutong’s chefs. Signature dishes in London 08
include ‘Red Lantern’ - crispy soft-shell crab with Sichuan dried chili, and ‘Ma La Chili Prawns’, which are fried with dried chili, Sichuan pepper and Chinese celery. Two other signature dishes on the menu are ‘Crispy Deboned Lamb Ribs’, for which the meat is thrice marinated over a 24 hour period and crisped in the wok, and ‘Roasted Peking Duck’, hand-prepared and roasted in the restaurant’s dedicated duck roasting kitchen, which guests are be able to view from the dining room. At lunchtime, an extensive contemporary dim sum menu is served offering meat, fish and vegetarian options such as ‘Shanghai-style Xiao Long Bao’ and ‘Vegetable and Bamboo Pith Dumplings’. As creative director of Aqua Restaurant Group, David Yeo conceptualized every detail of the dramatic interior of Hutong. Traditional Chinese red lanterns and beautiful hand-carved wood-paneled ‘Moon Gates’ adorn the room, while a wall of tiled tea bricks (compressed dried Chinese tea) and vintage 1940s tea canisters celebrate the link between China and London and its old tea warehouses. David Yeo’s vision naturally extends to the table setting itself with a beautiful collection of crockery and tableware all made exclusively for Hutong. www.aquahutong.co.uk
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Trophies, helmets, overalls and parts of Formula 1 vehicles are all on display, telling the story of the car racing journey over the years, in a unique and impressive collection.
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09 Exterior of the Ristorante 10 Common eating area for the racers 11 Some of the Formula 1 items on display
Ristorante Montana, Italy Located near the Fiorano race track, in a town that is historically associated with Ferrari, lies the Ristorante Montana. With superb food and excellent service, the restaurant is known for being a common dining place for the Formula 1 team, and is a must see destination for car racing enthusiasts. Complete with pictures, autographs and memorabilia from Ferrari, the experience provides a mixture of culinary art and motor car culture. Trophies, helmets, overalls and parts of Formula 1 vehicles are all on display, telling the story of the car racing journey over the years, in a unique and impressive collection. Along with this, the Ristorante Montana is home to a series of prestigious signatures, which have been collected on restaurant napkins and finely displayed on the walls. The restaurant was originally opened in 1967 by Oscar Molinari and Laura Mattioli, who after several years working in hotels and restaurants decided to build their own, named “Montana�. They named it in respect of the architectural style of ski resort Crans Montana, a place the couple previously worked in Switzerland. Drivers such as Gilles Villeneuve and Lorenzo Bandini began visiting Ristorante Montana as early as April 1985, and in July of ‘96 Oscar and Laura handed over the business to the family Paolucci, who have kept the restaurant alive as a strong family company to this day. Dishes are inspired by the Region of Emilia, which is known for their egg and filled pasta made with soft wheat flour, and pastas such as garganelli and strozzapreti. Typical Italian favourites are also served, such as mouth watering lasagne, parmesan al dente risotto, and a range of salads and antipasti, with a choice of decadent tiramisu for dessert. www.ristorantemontana.it
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Dining 12 Luxurious 20s style elegance 13 Fresh crab 14 Smoked cured fish
Kaspar, Savoy Hotel London In May 2013, the 124 year old Savoy Hotel launched Kaspar Seafood Bar and Grill, offering an informal yet luxurious dining experience, presented in an elegant Twenties-style setting by Robert Angell Design Studio. Located in the heart of London with panoramic views of the River Thames and London landmarks, Kaspar presents an all-day dining affair seven days a week, with head chef James Pare serving a wide range of cuisine to satisfy all palates. Pare has created a simple and approachable menu, divided into starters, selections from the cured and smoked fish bar, main courses, grill, salads and desserts. A show stopping oyster bar takes centre stage, as the restaurant seamlessly moves from a patisserie breakfast bar to lunch and dinner, with a beautiful display of shellfish, cured and smoked fish.
A show stopping oyster bar takes centre stage, as the restaurant seamlessly moves from a patisserie breakfast bar to lunch and dinner, with a beautiful display of shellfish, cured and smoked fish. 12
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Many courses are available as starters including panroasted diver scallops and poached Isle of Skye lobster, while mains include intriguing items like the smoked salmon hotdog, sweet potato and goat’s cheese ravioli, and the Thai green seafood curry with cashews. Children are able to choose from a mini menu and a delectable dessert menu with choices such as elderflower cream strawberry lime compote and Valrhona Manjari chocolate sphere, will certainly satisfy a sweet tooth. As for Kaspar: the three foot high cat was sculpted in 1926 by British Basil Ionides to join dining parties of 13 to ward off bad luck. Kaspar is a welcome addition to the iconic Savoy Hotel, blending the traditional glamour of the past with a refreshing, modern dining experience. www.kaspars.co.uk
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Italian Inspiration Chef Adriano Cavagnini has been delighting guests with his delicious menu creations ever since joining the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane in October 2010. Bringing over twenty years of experience to his position as Executive Chef, Cavagnini is responsible for the hotel’s culinary direction, as well as the cuisine for contemporary Italian restaurant Amaranto. Using a combination of classical and traditional dishes with flavours and tastes from around the world, Chef Cavagnini shares with Durrah three recipes from the popular restaurant.
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Summer Peach Salad FOR THE SALAD • 4 ripe flat peaches • 10 baby carrots • 20g frisée salad • 10g candied lemon • 1g Italian parsley • 50ml peach dressing Method 1. Cut the peaches in halves, remove the stone and continue to cut in wedges 2. Cut the carrots with a vegetable peeler, peeling the whole length of the carrot to produce carrot strips For the candied lemon • 1 lemon • 30g water • 30g sugar Method 1. Slice the lemon thinly into nice round pieces and place into a bowl 2. Place sugar and water into a pot and bring to a boil to make sugar syrup 3. Once boiling pour the sugar syrup over the lemon and cover with plastic wrap and let cool at room temperature For the peach dressing • 50ml extra virgin olive oil • 37g fresh white peach puree • 15g lime juice plus zest • 5g sugar syrup from lemon confit • Salt Method 1. Whisk all ingredients together and balance the taste with salt To Serve Arrange the peaches, candied lemon and carrot strips nicely together and drizzle with peach dressing
Tomato and Cheese Risotto INGREDIENTS • 280g carnaroli rice • 20g shallots (finely diced) • 1.5 litres vegetable stock • 500g San Marzano tomatoes (peeled and pureed) • 50g green Meridia tomatoes (diced) • 65g Datterini tomatoes (peeled and halved) • 120g Beef tomatoes (diced) • 16g Pachino tomatoes (dried) • 180g white wine • 150g Stracchino cheese • 2g fresh oregano • 2g fresh marjoram • 2g fresh basil • 5g extra virgin olive oil • 10g butter • 10g acid butter • 15g Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (aged for 36 months) • 4 San Marzano Tomatoes (peeled, quartered, deseeded and semi-dried) Method 1. In a heavy sauce pan, melt the butter and add the shallots, soften over low heat without colouring 2. Add the rice, with a pinch of salt, and stir constantly until the rice is nicely toasted without colouring 3. Add the wine and stir until evaporated 4. Add about 4 tablespoons of the San Marzano tomato puree, mix well, then cover the rice with the vegetable stock and a pinch of salt 5. Continue to cook the rice over medium heat, stirring constantly, alternately adding the tomato puree and the vegetable stock until the rice is cooked ‘al dente’, for about 15 minutes 6. To finish the risotto take the rice off of the heat and leave to rest for 1 minute covered with a clean towel 7. With a wooden spoon, gently stir in the Green Meridia, Datterini, Beef and Pachino tomatoes 8. Lightly slice through the fresh herbs and add to the rice with oil, acid butter and parmesan cheese, gently whisking until emulsified To Serve Place in four serving bowls and garnish with the Stracchino cheese, semidried tomatoes and fresh herb tips
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Mixed Seafood Platter Ingredients • 4 medium langoustines • 4 scallops • 4 prawns • 120g salmon (cut into 4) • 120g sea bass (cut into 4) • 120g tuna (cut into 4) • 120g swordfish (cut into 4) • 1 aubergine • 1 courgette • 1 bell pepper • 1 carrot • 1 fennel • 8 cherry tomatoes • Olive oil • Seasonings: lemon, parsley, salt, pepper For the fish and shellfish 1. Season all seafood with salt, lemon, pepper and preferred spices 2. Preheat a skillet, grill pan or barbecue to mediumhigh heat 3. Add 1 tbsp. of olive oil to the pan, or rub the grates of your grill with oil so the fish won›t stick 4. Grill langoustines until they are pink and start to curl, about 2 to 3 minutes per side depending on size 5. Grill prawns until they are pink and start to curl, about 2 to 3 minutes per side depending on size 6. Grill scallops, until just cooked through, about 2 minutes per side 7. Grill salmon until opaque and just cooked through, about 3 to 5 minutes per side depending on thickness of fish 8. Grill swordfish for about 3 minutes on each side depending on thickness of fillet, until fish flakes easily with a fork 9. Lightly baste each fillet while cooking with lemon, salt and pepper mixture several times 10. Grill the tuna fillets for 1 to 2 minutes on each side
For the grilled vegetables 1. Cut all vegetables except the tomato into thin stripes 2. Gently brush with oil and grill until tender crisp and grill marked, turning as needed, about 2 to 3 minutes For the grilled tomatoes 1. Cut the tomatoes in half crosswise, along the ‘equator’ and lay them cut-side-up on a large baking sheet or tray 2. Brush the cut sides with olive oil and sprinkle them with salt 3. Lay the tomatoes oiled-side-down on the grill 4. Close the lid if using a gas grill and cook until grill marks appear, for about 5 minutes 5. Brush the other sides with oil and sprinkle them with salt 6. Turn the tomato halves over, close the lid on and cook until grill marks appear on the other side, for about 5 minutes To Serve Arrange all the fish and seafood with the grilled vegetables on a serving plate and garnish with chervil, dill and olive oil
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Automotive
Automotive Opulence Durrah presents an exciting new selection of offers from the best luxury car brands, which are guaranteed to impress. From the sparkling new W Motors and their exceptional Arabian hypercar, to Audi’s exclusive Corporate Programme, to new models from old favourites; Rolls Royce, Mercedes and Bentley – this season has it all.
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W Motors Lykan W Motors S.A.L Company was established in May 2012 in Beirut designing and building high-end, vehicles aimed for the elite clientele of the Middle East, Far East, Africa and Eastern European markets. The new headquarters and Design centre was then relocated to Dubai UAE, making it the first Arab brand of high performance luxury sports cars based in the Middle East as official automotive manufacturers and developers. Each vehicle produced by the brand is limited to 7 units per design and labelled as the most exclusive, luxurious and technologically advanced hypercars in the world. W Motors S.A.L is backed, supported and sponsored by the biggest names in the automotive industry, with partnerships signed with leading multinational companies in the field. Revealed earlier this year was the elite and radical hypercar Lykan, named after the most advanced species of wolves in mythical legends. CEO Ralph Debbas said, “This is history in the making, the first Arabian hypercar, the most exceptional hypercar the world will ever see.”
The Lykan possesses a luxurious blend of power, advanced design, technology and exclusivity. Distinctive in every way, the innovative model boasts of 750 horsepower (395 kilometres per house) and features a holographic display, an ID4 motion dashboard and uniquely designed seats for ultimate comfort and safety. The engine, Flat 6 twin-turbo, has been engineered with the perfect balance between power, torque and speed, creating an exceptional driving machine for an inimitable driving experience. Adding a touch of modern luxury with the integration of the most refined and luxurious materials both inside and out, the Lykan comes with diamond encrusted LED lights that lend the hypercar a magnificent finish. Additionally, the car comes with gold-stitched interiors, a 24 hour concierge service and a patented design Cyrus Klepcys watch, which has been dedicated to Lykan owners only. Touted as “a modern machine with a touch of humanity,” the Lykan is one of the most exclusive and exquisite cars in the world. www.wmotors.ae
01 The stunning Lykan HyperSport 2013 02 White edition Lykan with doors open 03 Each vehicle is limited to 7 units per design 03 Possessing a blend of power, advanced design, technology and exclusivity 05 The Lykan comes with diamond encrusted LED lights
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Mercedes-Benz S-Class The pinnacle of the Mercedes-Benz promise is to deliver the best or nothing in terms of luxury automotive development. As the Middle East sees the launch of the prestigious new S-Class, Frank Bernthaler, Director in Sales and Marketing for the Middle East & Levant says, “rather than being about safety or aesthetics, power or efficiency, comfort or dynamism, our aspirations were ‘the best or nothing’ in every respect. No other car stands for the Mercedes-Benz brand promise more than the S-Class.” With three engineering priorities ‘Intelligent Drive’, ‘Efficient Technology’ and ‘Essence of Luxury’, the new S Class extends the boundaries of technology on many levels. Perfection to the last detail results in ‘Essence of Luxury’. This pursuit of the best is particularly noticeable in the interior: whether it is the seats or the air conditioning, the controls or the design, the infotainment or the comfort and safety in the rear – new ideas, their painstaking realisation, and highest perceived quality underpin the high standards that the engineers have set for the MercedesBenz flagship model – and for themselves. The same applies to safety. What started with
Pre-Safe® ten years ago and continued with Distronic Plus, has now resulted in a new dimension of motoring: comfort and safety are merged into one. Mercedes-Benz refers to this as ‘Intelligent Drive’. A whole host of new systems makes the new S-Class even more comfortable and even safer. Within ten years of realising ‘Efficient Technology’, Mercedes-Benz has almost halved fuel consumption in the 150 kW output category to 4.4 litres per 100 kilometres, while the drag coefficient of the new S-Class (cd=0.24) clearly undercuts the previous model’s figure, and sets a new benchmark in this segment. Furthermore, the new model is the world’s first car to dispense entirely with light bulbs in favour of LEDs, pointing the way ahead once again. The sophisticated design of the new S-Class features a larger radiator grille, upright and distinctly threedimensional in design. With its long bonnet, domed roof line and gently slanting rear end, the new model has classic saloon proportions. The size and space have been fashioned in such a way that the S-Class appears prestigious, and a powerful roof line reflects the car’s sporty coupé-style intentions. www.mideast.mercedes-benz.com
Within ten years of realising ‘Efficient Technology’, Mercedes-Benz has almost halved fuel consumption in the 150 kW output category to 4.4 litres per 100 kilometres.
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06 The new Mercedes-Benz S-Class 07 Luxurious and comfortable interior design 08 The new model has classic saloon proportions
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Bentley’s styling team has developed an athletic design for the new Flying Spur that combines traditional Bentley styling cues with a sporting stance and contemporary details.
Bentley Flying Spur
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Bentley establishes a new luxury performance sedan benchmark with the launch of the new Flying Spur. With its unrivalled blend of effortless driveability, exquisite luxury and craftsmanship, sculpted design and state-of-the-art technology, the new Flying Spur takes the worldwide success of its iconic predecessor further. Bentley’s styling team has developed an athletic design for the new Flying Spur that combines traditional Bentley styling cues with a sporting stance and contemporary details. Sharp feature lines complement muscular rear haunches, while LED day-time running lights, dipped headlights and taillights characterise the front and rear profiles. The interior designers have created a luxurious, spacious cabin that dresses advanced acoustic and electronic technologies in exquisite hand-crafted leather hides and wood veneers. Driver and passengers alike interface with the car and the outside world through touch-screen infotainment, mobile connectivity including Wi-Fi, a Rear Seat Entertainment suite and a new hand-held Touch Screen Remote which allows rear-cabin occupants to control an extensive range of features from the comfort of their seat. An eight-channel, eight-speaker audio system with Balanced Mode Radiators provide high quality sound clarity, with the 1100W Naim® for Bentley premium system available as an option.
09 Bentley logo on the interior wood veneers 10 Sharp feature lines complement muscular rear haunches 11 An eight-channel, eight-speaker audio system provides high quality sound clarity 12 Interior designers have created a lavish spacious cabin
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Customers wishing to extend the range of available options further can choose to include the Mulliner Driving Specification. This includes five additional hides, expanding the number of available shades to 17, and five further wood veneers. Bentley’s traditional diamond quilting is incorporated to the seats and door panels, together with an indented leather headlining and embroidered Bentley wings to the headrests. Drilled alloy foot pedals, a knurled sports gear lever, jewel filler cap and 21” two-piece fivespoke alloy wheels in painted or polished finish complete the Mulliner suite of options. Powering the new Flying Spur is Bentley’s renowned 6.0-litre, twin turbo W12 engine, coupled to a ZF eightspeed transmission. Developing 625 PS (616 bhp) and 800 Nm of torque, the new Flying Spur features more power than any other Bentley four-door in history. A 14 per cent improvement in the power-to-weight ratio over the outgoing model delivers a breath-taking 0-60 mph time of 4.3 seconds and a top-speed of 200 mph (322 km/h). In the modern Bentley tradition, power is delivered to the road via all-wheel drive with a 40:60 rear-biased torque split for a sure-footed, engaging drive in all road and weather conditions. For further information contact or visit Ahmed Zayani & Sons W.L.L.
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Automotive 13 Maintaining the hallmark RollsRoyce attributes of refinement 14 Dramatic two-tone presentation gives style, drama and a hint of noir 15 The softest Phantom-grade leathers are used for the interior)
Rolls Royce Wraith 13
Euro Motors celebrates 10 years representing RollsRoyce by hosting the launch of the most powerful and dynamic model from the brand in history, the RollsRoyce Wraith. With an elegant fastback design and the ability to accelerate from 0-100 km/hr in just 4.6 seconds, the 624 bhp-model presents a unique character defined by power, style, drama and a hint of noir, while maintaining the hallmark Rolls-Royce attributes of luxury, refinement and hand-craftsmanship. Geoffrey Briscoe, Regional Director of the Middle East, Africa and Latin America Rolls-Royce Motor Cars said, “The most powerful Rolls-Royce in history, Wraith promises the sense of adventure and speed that drove our founding forefather. But of course, Wraith’s starting point is luxury, refinement and quality, traits that remain as important to Rolls-Royce customers today as they were more than a century ago.” In profile, Wraith’s sweeping fastback design gives the car its unique character, along with its deeply recessed grille, wide rear track and dramatic two-tone presentation. Coach doors open to reveal a sumptuous interior complete with softest Phantom-grade leathers and
expanses of wood called Canadel Panelling. Named after the famous cove in the South of France where Sir Henry Royce and his design and engineering teams spent their winters, this contemporary and tactile finish sweeps through the interior, complemented by 1,340 fibre optic lamps hand-woven into the roof lining to give the impression of a glittering, starry night sky. Performance delivers on the promise of Wraith’s styling. Power delivery is effortless, but dramatic, thanks to a V12 engine married to 8-speed automatic ZF transmission. 624 bhp / 465kW is available to the driver while the 0-60 mph sprint is achieved in 4.4 seconds, compared with 563 bhp / 420kW and 0-60 in 4.7 seconds for Ghost. From 1,500 rpm 800 Nm of torque is available (780Nm for Ghost), while a wide rear track, shorter wheelbase and lower roof height further contribute to the most powerful, involving driving experience of any Rolls-Royce in history. The car’s suspension has also been tuned to minimise body roll and discreetly amplify feedback when cornering; while steering weight is heavier at high speeds and lighter at low speeds adding to the spirited drive. www.rolls-roycemotorcars-bahrain.bh
In profile, Wraith’s sweeping fastback design gives the car its unique character, along with its deeply recessed grille, wide rear track and dramatic two-tone presentation.
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Audi A8 and the new Audi Corporate Programme 16 The 3.0 TFSI V6 engine provides 290 hp of power and 420 Nm of torque 17 Comfort on board is first class from ambient lighting power adjustable seats 18 Provides the latest generation driving dynamics system 19 The seats can be ventilated and adjusted in a variety of ways
The Audi A8 is the flagship of the brand and boasting a wealth of technologies and equipment, it sets high standards of luxury, dynamism and efficiency in the top automobile manufacturing league. Available with 3 gasoline engines; the 3.0 TFSI V6 quattro with 290 hp, the 4.0 TFSI twin-turbo V8 quattro (420 hp) and the 4.0 TFSI twin-turbo V8 quattro with 520 hp powering the high performance version S8. The comfort on board is first class, with an elegant interior and the latest generation driving dynamics system, adaptive air suspension, Audi pre sense basic safety system, 360-degree cameras and the top-of the-range of infotainment system MMI navigation plus with Google Earth images. For drivers looking to get even more out of their Audi experience, the Audi Corporate Programme is an introduction to a whole new world of Audi. The programme gives members access to a host of exclusive and practical benefits, including preferential pricing on vehicles and accessories and priority vehicle order and allocations. Members are among the first to find out about new developments, including new car
releases and the latest technological innovations to the range. Along with invitations to model premieres, exclusive lifestyle events, driving experiences and corporate demonstrations, it’s an exciting insight into the varied world of Audi. Another advantage of the programme is the comprehensive cover that is extended to drivers by Audi Complete, which helps take the worry out of motoring. This guarantees that only Audi-trained professionals will look after members’ cars, with Audi’s advanced diagnostic skills and use of Audi Genuine Parts maintaining the original performance and integrity of the vehicle. Audi’s service and maintenance package covers use of the car up to 5 years or 75,000 km, whichever comes first, and covers full routine servicing, including labour. With regular, scheduled services incorporating comprehensive checks, members can be sure their vehicles receive thorough care and perform at their peak. Audi Corporate delivers a set of special benefits to diplomats, government officials, corporate executives and opinion leaders. www.rolls-roycemotorcars-bahrain.bh
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Must Have
My Wish List The latest and most exclusive luxury items
Bentley Handbag Bentley motors has launched a capsule handbag collection, transferring the functional luxury of cars into an accessory that women can cherish. The collection features two distinct models – The Barnato and The Continental – which are both reflective of the brand’s exquisite design aesthetic and highly skilled craftsmanship. Bentley’s Head of Product Design, Daniele Ceccomori worked closely with renowned luxury leather bag designer and expert craftsman Vincent du Sartel to produce the bags. “Starting with the exterior profile and volume, we drew inspiration from the iconic shape on the rear aspect of the boot lid of the car,” says Ceccomori. The handbags’ interior features evoke the same impression of inside a Bentley; exclusively lined in fine leather with quilting features and functional compartments, elegantly blending core aesthetic values with everyday practicality, just like a Bentley car. www.shop.bentleymotors.com
Opulent Shaik Gold Edition Parfum The new Gold Edition Parfum from luxury Bahraini brand Designer Shaik is part of the current Opulent Shaik range and Classic Collection, and comes in scents for both men and women. Known for their boldness and sense of opulence, each Designer Shaik fragrance makes a unique statement, which is the epitome of classic sophistication. The new Gold Edition for men and women is no exception, while still presenting a completely fresh and innovative feel. Combining traditional and exclusive ingredients with the finest spices, the long lasting fragrances will never cease to impress. Distinctive and refined, the exquisite flacons are dipped in 18 karat rose-gold and designed to flaunt. These scents are for the privileged few, offering beauty and sophistication like no other. www.designershaik.com/ The_Shaik
Paul Smith Swifty Scooter English brands Paul Smith and Swifty have teamed up to produce a special edition handmade ‘SwiftyONE’ scooter. The foldable scooter comes in a cheerfully bright turquoise and green powder coated frame, with 16 inch metallic teal wheels and white polka dot detailing. Perfect for zooming around town, the unique and innovative folding mechanism of the scooter allows it to be folded in three easy steps, and rest flat against a wall for easy storage. Combining the eclectic taste of fashion brand Paul Smith with the original and renowned design of Swifty, the scooter is one of timeless British elegance. www.paulsmith.co.uk
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Must Have
Gold-damascened plates Exclusively available at the Doha Museum of Islamic Art (MIA) gift shop, these plates are part of a vast collection of cultural treasures available at the store. Inspired by the tradition arabesque of the 7th century, the decorative plates were crafted in Toledo, Spain – a city wellknown for the manufacturing of damascened objects. A centenary tradition used to decorate guns, swords and armours, damascening is the inlaying of a precious metal such as 24 and 18 carat gold or even silver into another standard metal like steel, copper, or iron bronze. The combination of metals provides a final appearance of sumptuous beauty. Visitors can find an array of other exclusively designed products at the gift shop inspired by the MIA’s magnificent collection, including art books, jewellery, home decor and other gifts & accessories. www.mia.org.qa
Lanvin Mirror Briefcase Lanvin man for Winter 2013 under the artistic direction of Alber Elbaz is graphic, urban and resolutely modern. The strong silhouette for the wardrobe was created by Lucas Ossendrijver, using both proportion and proposition, which is echoed through the contemporary accessories. The much-commented mirrored pouches were perhaps the strongest accessories of the season. Following the house’s practical yet technological spirit, the new avantgarde briefcases were developed for smart tablets and documents. Their rigid architecture and narrow shape are worked using a structure covered with mirrored metal and leather, and are the perfect finishing touch for the contemporary gentleman. www.lanvin.com
Bentley for Men Fragrance In collaboration with Art & Fragrance, the British luxury automotive brand Bentley presents its first fragrance for men. Top French perfumer Nathalie Lorson skilfully transformed the quintessence of the legendary automobile brand Bentley into a superb and unmistakable fragrance experience, indulging in the finest perfume raw ingredients wood and leather, which are known from the luxurious handcrafted interior of Bentley cars. “I chose cedar because of its powerful unadulterated scent and patchouli for its sensual depth and natural elegance,” says Lorson. This combination gives the fragrance a strong, masculine structure. The base notes are sensuously accompanied by musk and benzoin Siam, which convey a feeling of comfort and warmth and, in the perfumer’s words, “are perfectly suited to today’s men”. www.bentley-fragrances.com/en
Dupont Défi leather collection Combining contemporary design and technology, the new Défi collection lives up to the exacting expectations of experienced travellers, through meeting ultrafunctional standards of performance and style. Défi Carbon bags use the toughest lightweight calfskin leather, embossed with distinct diagonal lines inspired by carbon fibre technology, offering a slightly shiny and stain-resistant finishing. The collection includes backpacks, messengers, shoulder bags and wheeled overnight bags, and smaller travel essentials include an organiser, iPad-sized reporter bag and laptop case. Soft cushioned straps, a smooth padded back on the backpack, ergonomically designed shapes, detachable straps and smart sleeves make the Défi Carbon line a pleasure to look at and carry. www.st-dupont.com
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Must Have
Tag Heuer Phantomatik Jacket In 2009, TAG Heuer, the world’s number one Swiss brand for luxury sports watches, chronographs, men’s eyewear and ultra-performance mobile phones, added the Avant-Garde Accessories Collection to its roster of high quality goods. Three years later after becoming a worldwide bestseller, the brand launched Phantomatik; a new leather goods line aimed at the highest-end of the luxury market, with items such as bags wallets and jackets. Designed by a renowned team of stylists and inspired by the iconic 70s motor-racing gear worn by Steve McQueen in the classic race film Le Mans, the Tag Heuer Phantomatik leather jacket is a supremely stylish piece of movie-making and motor-racing lore. www.tagheuer.com
Salvatore Ferragamo Gancino Bracelet Inspired by the Gancino, the ultimate symbol many have come to associate with the Ferragamo brand, the Gancino timepiece bracelet is the latest design from the women’s collection. With its extremely feminine design and minute proportions, Gancino Bracelet is a cocktail watch that can be worn fashionably day and night. The stand-out features are the small 22.5 mm diameter Gancino-shaped case in steel or IP rose gold, and the polished bangle bracelet which wraps around the contours of the wrist. The soleil finish dial has applied indexes, which are available in silver and antique rose hues, a simple yet elegant choice for every woman. www.ferragamo.com
Givori Phantom Black Platinum Luxury smartphone accessorizer Givori has taken luxury to the next level, as they launched their first ever men’s collection with Givori Phantom Black Platinum for the iPhone5. Each unique customization is 100% handcrafted in Italy using black rhodium, one of the rarest and most valuable precious metals, as well as the highly-prized Mississippiensis alligator skin, which has been treated with silver dust to give it a distinctly masculine metallic finish. Givori has also gone the extra mile to combine exquisite aesthetics with technological ingenuity, coating all parts of the smartphone in a nanotechnology film to combat oxidation, fingerprints and colour fading. Featuring a balance of rare elements, precious metals and high-quality finishing, this is a smartphone that is brimming with masculinity and mystery. www.givori.com
Mario Cioni Crystal Sound Speakers Mario Cioni Crystal Sound is the latest innovation from Mario Cioni & Co., and is a high performance loudspeakers system, where purity of sound merges with beauty of shape. Available in two way and three way speaker models, the range is based on providing superb sound from high quality, artistic crystal ware. A result of three years of project and construction planning and hundreds of lab tests, Mario Cioni & Co. succeeded in their challenge to go beyond the traditional and introduce a boldly creative style and listening experience like no other. www.mariocioni.com
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Book Review
Before they pass away
It’s not every day that you meet someone with Jimmy Nelson’s drive. After all, the British photographer spent close to three years trekking across Amazonian jungles, braving sub-zero temperatures in Siberia, and even surviving a case of meningitis. His mission: to photograph the world’s last tribesmen and create an ethnographic record of these fast-disappearing societies – and photograph he did.
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resented in a lavish book aptly titled Before They Pass Away and published by teNeues this month, Nelson’s haunting images speak to the enduring beauty of these tribes’ dress, customs, and time-honoured way of living. With stark portraits of individual natives and scenes of everyday life – including the colourful ensembles of Papua New Guinea’s Huli people; Argentinean gauchos’ herding techniques; and the extravagant jewellery of the Rabari women in India – this book also discusses the origins, traditions, beliefs, daily lives, and diets of each of the 35 tribes featured. Nelson speaks to Durrah to discuss Before They Pass Away’s inspiration, key moments from his adventures, his future vision for the project, and much more.
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Book Review
While the conditions were constantly difficult, the true challenge was more in being in an intimate situation with these tribes. When you are passionate about something, you override the physical difficulties.
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01 The Kazakhs, Mongolia 02 Cover of Before They Pass Away presentation box and book 03 A Nenet man, Russia 03 Portrait of Jimmy Nelson
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How did you first develop an interest in photography? As a child I enjoyed taking photos of friends and was always somewhat a creative spirit. I left boarding school in Northern England when I was 18 to take a year off and travel to Tibet, where the main objective was to find myself. I took an old camera with me to just document the experience, but someone saw the images and thought I should publish them. That was in 1986, the year Tibet was opened to tourists. I discovered that I really enjoyed photography, so I continued.
What first motivated you to focus on taking pictures of these tribes? While I’ve spent the past 18 years doing advertising photography, my passion has always been ethnic cultures and tribes. It’s been a hobby for 25 years but I never did anything significant with it. With the economic crisis of 2008 and the ongoing digital revolution, my role as a photographer changed, which propelled me to make a radical choice. I needed to go to photography’s source, so I plunged into this project around 3 years ago with the goal of realizing my dream. They were all chosen for aesthetic beauty, geographical location, and the diversity of the nature they live in. I originally wanted to photograph 70 tribes, but several were eliminated because they were physically inaccessible or there were bureaucratic barriers in some countries, especially in Africa and the Amazon. Overall, I strived to make the subject accessible to individuals who wouldn’t normally be interested in these tribes.
How do you make a connection with these tribes and get them to welcome you into their lives? When I first arrived, I always made sure they never saw any cameras. I also made myself small – in both a physical and metaphorical sense. I’m quite tall and imposing, but when you make yourself small, you give
them the feeling that they are in control, even if it means spending 4 days crouched in the dirt. I would then try to communicate, usually with the help of translators. In places like Papua New Guinea, where there are thousands of languages, I had to use hand gestures and touching. Another important point is that I always stayed in their accommodation, whether it was a teepee or the ground, because I didn’t want to give the impression that I was better than them.
Do you ever show your subjects your work, and if so what is their response? No, the majority of the sitters for the photography were unaware of the concept of photography. Their only interest was one of attention and vanity; that I made them feel good, important and beautiful whilst taking the picture.
This project took nearly 3 years to complete and brought you to some of the most remote places in the world, from freezing temperatures in the Arctic Circle to tropical jungles in the South Pacific. How did your survival skills and awareness of nature evolve over time? I certainly learned a lot. I remember one trip when I was in a swamp and trying to walk across logs in clunky shoes. The natives were laughing at me because I kept falling off the logs – I was unable to feel anything with my shoes! So I took them off and walked barefoot just like them, and didn’t fall anymore.
Were there any particularly difficult moments? At the very beginning of the project, I caught meningitis in Ethiopia. After that, I was very careful and lucky. While the conditions were constantly difficult, the true challenge was more in being in an intimate situation with these tribes. When you are passionate about something, you override the physical difficulties.
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Book Review
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Book Review
05 Huli tribe, Papua New Guinea 06 A Maasai warrior, Tanzania 07 The Himba tribe, Namibia
What kind of equipment did you use? Ten percent of what I did was digital and the other 90 percent was achieved with a 50 year old technical plate camera. It’s very cumbersome and imposing, and shooting with it takes many hours. When you make images this way, you can enlarge them on an extraordinarily large scale. With digital, they lose their artistic edge and look like plastic. The plate camera has more soul.
What is the significance of capturing these tribes whose traditions and ways of life are dying out? Although they will always exist, what is happening is that they are abandoning their culture. Affluence is taking over the undeveloped world and in my opinion there should be a balance somewhere in between. I want to show these tribes that they are already rich, that they have something money can’t buy. What I want to achieve is bring attention to these people by showing that they are beautiful.
Were there major differences between these people, or – despite disparities in geography, customs, and history – were they mostly similar to one another? They are all similar in how they live in balance with the environment, and they have achieved the perfect harmony that everyone in the West dreams of.
Do you have any other projects in the works? Well, everything I’m doing at the moment is tied to this project and will be for the future. Right now I’m working on a film and organizing shoots for 35 more tribes. Hopefully this will be a catalyst for the idea that we are all photographers; everyone travels and maybe they can also spread the same message through photography. www.jimmynelson.com 06
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Editorial
Final Pearl
Bahrain International Design Week 2013
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oming up this winter is the Bahrain International Design Week, which will be held 3rd - 5th December at the Bahrain International Convention and Exhibitions Centre. An agreement was signed to initiate the event between Chief Executive Officer of Bahrain Exhibition and Convention Authority, Mr. Hassan Jaffar Mohamed, and Mr. Ali Hamad Abul, Managing Director of All In One Services, under the patronage of H.E. Dr. Hassan Abdulla Fakhroo, the Minister of Industry and Commerce. The exhibition is dedicated to gathering artists, curators, creators and designers who will offer the latest in their unique style, as well as resort managers, investors, homeowners and students of design. A broad range of designs will be on show, with everything from styles in fashion, jewellery and accessories, perfumes, surfaces and finishing, outdoor living, paintings, sculptures and textile and kitchen designs. Additional displays will include automotive, game, graphic, visual arts, communication, multimedia, web, digital animation, interactive media, software, digital designs and concept drawing. Specialising in the MENA region designs, the
event will be spread across 4,800 square meters and organised into three categories including Personal Design, Architecture and Interior Design, and Services in Design including Design Universities and Schools. The Personal Design category will house the latest in fashion, apparel, jewelry, accessories and perfume bottle design. Architecture and Interior Design will have structural design, decorating surfaces and finishing, lighting, outdoor living, painting and sculptures objects, furniture, textiles and kitchen design. Finally, the Services in Design will showcase the latest in automotive design, games, graphics, visual arts, communication design, son design, digital animation, interactive media, software, digital and concept drawing. Universities and schools offering learning courses in architecture and interior design are also expected to participate in this specialized event. Side attractions will also be featured including fashion shows, design lectures, book launches and signings, light shows and art galleries. Be sure to stop off at the Durrah stand, which will feature an impressive range of luxury and exclusive products on display. www.bahrainexhibitions.com
The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece The
width
of
the
blade
guaranteeing
the
suppleness of the three patented hammers in the L.U.C Chrono One is calculated to enable the chronograph hands to be swiftly and gently reset to zero. Making this vital part too thick would result in a rough jerking motion, while if it were too thin, the hands might not return at all. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L, each hammer is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Chrono One houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the COSC.
L.U.C CHRONO ONE
WRAITH And the world stood still
Introducing Wraith – the most dynamic Rolls-Royce in history. Experience the power, style and drama for yourself.
Euro Motors, Building 810 Sh. Jaber Al Ahmed Al Subah Highway, Al Hamriya 611, Sitra, Kingdom of Bahrain Tel: 17 750 750 Fax: 17 750 850 www.rolls-roycemotorcars-bahrain.bh Š Copyright Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Limited 2013. The Rolls-Royce name and logo are registered trademarks.