The Comfort Issue // A Taste of Home by EASTside Magazine

6 BEST HOBBIES: BACK TO THE SIMPLE THINGS IN LIFE

THE TASTY

side

OF AUSTIN

the issue

A TASTE OF HOME

Implant Placement

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August/September

CONTENTS

Publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note

08 Local

From Home Plate

Discover the epic history behind Downs Field, a staple in the community.

Art+Entertainment Representation in Reading

A childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s literacy initiative is changing the narrative of diversity, one book at a time.

31 Go+Do

6 Best Timeless Hobbies

Rediscover a favorite pastime by picking up a tried and true hobby.

Home+Away Where the Heart Is

A tight-knit community was the deciding factor behind a French Place addition.

Sip+Taste

Birds of a Feather

A local eatery takes a creative spin on a Southern classic.

Read more at eastsideatx.com

Finding Your Comfort Few things are more comforting than a plate of home cooked Southern food. Visit these East Austin establishments that are serving up classic dishes and the hospitality that so graciously goes with it.

As an Austin original, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in our DNA to be different. Our bold and spirited designs capture the culture and history of generations, past and present. At World Interiors, culture is important to us. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why; international looks blend with local vibes, sustainability, eco-friendly practices, and handcrafting to ensure that our products will be part of your home for years to come.

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you love

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Kyle Nigro

knigro@farmersagent.com

1301 Chicon St. Unit 104 Austin, TX 78702

Farmers Agent

{the tasty side of austin}

eastsideatx.com

EAST THE RESILIENT

Rosewood Avenue Austin, Texas 78702 eastsideatx.com

Publisher Nillo Studios, LLC Creative Director Will Bowling Publishing Editor Ashley Bowling Photo Editor Eric Morales Business Development Will Bowling

OF AUSTIN

Contributing Photographers Shelby Bella, Ashley Haguewood, Nick Berard, Shane Ford, Ryan Davis, Rachel Benevides Contributing Writers Jess Hagemann, Jessi Devenyns, Sean Saldana, Ben Haguewood, Bethany Wales, Eric Morales, Sam Lauron, Chris Ferguson Distribution Brian Phillips, Will Bowling

Copy Editor Pam Bowen Editorial & Events Sam Lauron

side

Submissions info@eastsideatx.com Advertising advertise@eastsideatx.com

print editions, woodcuts by David September and October. Letscher. Exhibitions by Richard Armendariz and Suzi October. Davidoff open September Everett, and new and etchings by Lance Armendariz and Suzi Davidoff open September and October. FLATBED'S STUDIOS ARE OPEN Letscher. Exhibitions by Richard FLATBED'S STUDIOSARE ARE OPEN FLATBED'S STUDIOS OPEN September and October. artists creating their Davidoff own woodcuts, FLATBED'S STUDIOS ARE OPEN Armendariz and Suzi open tototo artists creating their own woodcuts, artists creating their own woodcuts, FLATBED'S STUDIOS ARE OPEN etchings, monotypes, lithographs, September andand October. to artists creating their own woodcuts, etchings, monotypes, and lithographs, etchings, monotypes, and lithographs, FLATBED'S STUDIOS ARE OPEN to artists creating their own woodcuts, and individual tutorials and small etchings, monotypes, and lithographs, and individual tutorials and small and individual tutorials and small to artists creating their own woodcuts, etchings, monotypes, and lithographs, are available. FLATBED'S STUDIOS ARE OPEN and workshops individual tutorials and small workshops are available. etchings, monotypes, and lithographs, workshops are available. and individual tutorials small Call or visit to findavailable. outand more. to artists creating their own woodcuts, workshops are Call or visit find out more. and individual tutorials and small workshops are available. Call oror visit find out more. etchings, monotypes, and lithographs, Call visittoto to find out more. workshops are available. Call or visit to find out more. 3701 and Drossett Drive, Suite 190 Austin, Texas - 78744 individual tutorials and small 3701 Drossett Drive, Suite 190 Austin, Texas Call or visit to find out more. www.flatbedpress.com 3701 Drossett Drive,Suite Suiteare 190 -- Austin, Texas -78744 78744 workshops 3701 Drossett Drive, 190available. Austin, Texas - 78744 www.flatbedpress.com 3701 Drossett Drive, Suite 190 Austin, Texas www.flatbedpress.com Call or visit to find out more. - 78744 www.flatbedpress.com 3701 Drossett Drive, Suite 190 - Austin, Texas - 78744 www.flatbedpress.com

www.flatbedpress.com EASTside www.flatbedpress.com | Aug/Sep 2020

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Come to Flatbed's gallery to see a wide inventory of works bytotoacclaimed Come Flatbed's gallery seeaa Come totoFlatbed's gallery see wide inventory ofworks works by acclaimed Come to Flatbed's gallery to see a Texas artists. We have Julie Speed wide inventory of by acclaimed Come to Flatbed's gallery toSpeed see a Texas artists. We have Julie wide inventory of works by acclaimed print editions, woodcuts by David Texas artists. We have Julie Speed Come to Flatbed's gallery toDavid see a wide inventory ofwoodcuts works by acclaimed print editions, by Texas artists. We have Julie Speed print editions, woodcuts by David Everett, and new etchings by Lance wide inventory of works acclaimed Texas artists. We have by Julie Speed Everett, new etchings by Lance print editions, by David Come toand Flatbed's gallery toRichard see a Everett, and newwoodcuts etchings by Lance Letscher. Exhibitions by Texas artists. We have by Julie Speed print editions, woodcuts by David Letscher. Exhibitions Richard Everett, and new etchings by Lance wide inventory of works by acclaimed Letscher. Exhibitions by Richard Armendariz and Suzi Davidoff open print editions, woodcuts by Everett, andExhibitions new etchings byDavid Lance Armendariz and Suzi Davidoff open Letscher. by Richard Texas artists. have Julie Speed Armendariz andWe Suzi Davidoff open September and October. Everett, andExhibitions newSuzi etchings by Lance Letscher. by Richard September and October. Armendariz and Davidoff open

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Social & Web Joanna Fuller

Tag @eastsideatxmag in your favorite East Austin photos and use the hashtag #EASTsideATXmag to be featured!

CONNECT WITH US eastsideatx eastsideatxmag We promise we read every single comment! Copyright ÂŠ 2016 Nillo Studios, LLC. EASTside Magazine is published by Nillo Studios, LLC. No portion may be reproduced without express written consent. Editorial or advertising does not constitute advice, but is rather considered informative. Expressed opinions are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of ownership.

3701 Drossett Drive, Suite 190 - Austin, Texas - 78744

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eastside | publisher's letter

ith the whirlwind of craziness this year, it seems that comforting moments, childhood favorites, classic dishes, and home-made memories have become a necessity these days. It can be healthy to reflect on a time when life was simpler and use those moments to remind us of our strength and propel us further. In fact, I’ll go as far to say, we need that simplicity right now. Fewer things bring me more comfort than eating delicious food that reminds me of a simpler time and place, where good friends and family unite around something as simple as a meal. And East Austin has no shortage of comforting classic cuisine. The local fare that has been cooked up in kitchens here for centuries needs no introduction. I believe our readers already have their favorite diners or dishes and can tout about how good they are all day long. But let’s not forget that behind these amazing dishes are some wonderful people: people who make up these businesses, people who are struggling to survive this downturn. More important than the dishes they serve or the products they offer, these people deserve to be recognized. Once more, I’d like to say how very impressed I am by our team who produced an attractive and easy to read issue. Pulling off a stunning print magazine—from jumping through hoops with photoshoots to interviews to research to sales and marketing meetings—during a stay-at-home order is no easy undertaking. But somehow they’ve made this one look as good as it tastes. The ups and downs of businesses opening and closing have made us (and every other small business right now) amazingly adaptable to changing times. It seems our team has nearly perfected the ‘do more with less’ mentality that this magazine was founded upon. Finally, our intention is for everyone to find a little comfort in this issue and a little joy in supporting every local business on the following pages. Again, please shop local and patronize the businesses that we have taken great care to highlight in this issue. Our hyper-local community needs your support, now more than ever, in order to continue on for decades to come! Gratefully,

Photo: Katie Wnukoski

A Taste of Home

A diversely populated STEAM school with infant sign-language and Spanish language instruction.

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Christian education reinforces the values of generosity, forgiveness, thankfulness, love and responsibility

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SCHEDULE A VISIT TODAY

Will & Ashley Bowling

3407 Red River Street Austin, TX 78705 6 Best Hobbies: Back to the Simple Things in Life VOLUME 5/ISSUE 5

6 BEST HOBBIES: BACK TO THE SIMPLE THINGS IN LIFE

ON THE COVER: We had to get creative since we were not

side

CentralAustinUSAS@Upbring.org OF AUSTIN

the THE COMFORT ISSUE AUGUST/SEPT 2020

able to shoot at the restaurants that we are highlighting. So we drove around, ordered to-go, and brought most of it back to our porch, where Shelby Bella did an incredible job of making the food look like it just came out of the frying pan. In the photo is The Rolling Rooster's Chicken & Waffles and Terry's Seafood & Chicken's Stuffed Crab, Shrimp, and Chicken Strips.

THE TASTY

{the tasty side of austin}

Open 12 months a year

issue

A TASTE OF HOME

USASCentralAustin

512-230-9224 (Text is okay!) or take a virtual tour at:

Upbring.org/usasca eastsideatx.com

eastside | local

From Home Plate to Historic Landmark The Story of Downs Field First opened in the 1920s, Downs Field has been the focal point for athletics in East Austin for nearly a century. WORDS BY

Sean Saldana

PHOTO BY

amed after Reverend Karl Downs, former President of Samuel Huston College (a coeducational school for Black Americans), Downs Field has a long and celebrated history as the epicenter of Black athletics in Austin. Samuel Huston College first acquired the land at Downs Field in 1927 and was subsequently turned into a baseball field. Soon thereafter, the stadium became home to a Texas Negro League baseball team, Austin Black Senators, the city’s only professional sports team at the time. The team’s most noteworthy player to suit up for the Black Senators was Willie Wells. Born in Austin in 1905, Wells quickly rose to prominence as one of the country’s best baseball players. After graduating from Anderson High School in 1924, he played a few seasons for the Black Senators before he was scouted out by the Negro National League. By the mid-1920s, Wells was playing for the St. Louis Stars, one of the Negro

8 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Shane Ford

National League’s most decorated franchises, and would later go on to earn the nickname, “El Diablo.” In 1997, nearly a decade after his death, Willie Wells was inducted into the National Baseball Hall of Fame. In 1938, Samuel Huston College sold the field to Austin Public Schools for $10,000. From there, Downs Field became the athletic stadium for Anderson High School, Austin’s only Black high school at the time. And in 1942, after an undefeated season, the Anderson Yellow Jackets secured a state championship there after beating Gibbon of Paris 40-0. In 1954, the field was moved to its current location on East 12th Street where it was used not only by Anderson High School but also by other prominent African American institutions like Huston-Tillotson University, which was formed in 1952 when Tillotson College and Samuel Huston College merged so they could more effectively serve Austin’s Black community. The field was also home to lesser known baseball teams like the Austin Black Pioneers.

Nowadays, fans can cheer on the Huston-Tillotson Rams during game day or catch a fly ball at one of the various little leagues that practice and play on Downs Field. In recent years, the field has undergone a number of repairs and renovations to restore it to its historic stature. In 2014, Austin Parks Foundation helped restore the entryway to the ballpark. In 2018, an Austin City Limits Music Festival grant helped repair the scoreboard and upgrade fan seating. The field has also since been dedicated as a historical landmark by the Texas Historical Commission. The most noticeable change, however, is the set of tile murals that now adorn the front of the stadium commemorating the noteworthy baseball players who played at Downs Field over the years. The murals include the names and portraits of Willie Wells, Joe Williams, Tori Stone, Hilton Smith, and Satchel Paige.

Contact:

2816 E 12th Street

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Did You Know? Throughout his life, Karl Downs developed a close relationship with Jackie Robinson: the first player to break the color barrier in Major League Baseball. During the 1944/45 season, Robinson was a basketball coach at Samuel Huston College.

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Art+ entertainment

August +Sept 2020

12 visual

art

HOW STRUCTURE, DISCIPLINE, AND RHYTHM INFORM ONE ARTISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PRACTICE

14 event calendar

MARK YOUR CALENDARS FOR OUR FAVORITE VIRTUAL EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN AUGUST & SEPTEMBER.

16 entertainment

DISCOVER HOW A SIMPLE SUBSCRIPTION BOX IS INCREASING DIVERSITY IN BOOK COLLECTIONS.

eastside | art

Art in Full Circle

Each form of expression feeds the other. WORDS & PHOTOS BY Eric

Morales

Carl Brunson is the rare breed of artist whose sheer willpower and discipline continues to propel him further along his journey of selfdiscovery.

e has a proclivity for creating order which is evident by all appearances from the minimalist interior design of his home to the way he structures his daily life. It all moves him toward a singular purpose: to make space for creativity in visual art, graphic design, and music. Structure is necessary when one is fully committed to being a multi-disciplinary artist. “Exercise, what I eat, how I sleep; it’s a priority thing. Creating art is more important to me than staying up late, or whatever it is that would mess me up tomorrow,” Carl explains. He purposefully keeps a rhythm between his work as a professional graphic designer, visual artist, and music producer. Every minute in the day counts, and the structure keeps him moving between expressions with ease. Each form of expression feeds the other. “I’ve accepted that I’m going to make music for the rest of my life.” Carl continues. “For a while, that was my path. I lived in Miami and worked at a studio. I was writing songs and recording artists and learning about mixing. It’s just another form of expression, and it’s necessary. I’ve accepted this holistic thing. I can’t do [visual art] without making music. I have to do it all. It’s kind of like cross training.” Though multi-talented, Carl prefers to work in one medium at a time. Once a visual project is in full motion, he’ll start getting ideas for music. He exercises discipline, however, and finishes the visual work before skipping back to music. While he’s making music, he will often find inspiration for painting, thus coming full circle.

12 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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For someone who already excels in doing so many things, Carl is humble enough to know that however far he’s come in his journey, there is still an infinite road ahead. “Finding who you are as an artist takes work. I’m not there yet,” he acknowledges. When someone looks at his work, they might imagine he’s been “there” for quite some time. However, he only made the decision to transition from commercial art to fine art in 2019.

Overall, the experience of his family history is where the emotion and intention behind these works were born. The takeaway from his visit to Jamaica was relishing in the experience of the overall simplicity of life and the connection to people. “The sense of community there… You could just walk over to someone’s home.” He contrasts it to Austin where “we don’t necessarily know our neighbors. We [instead] build fences.”

Carl’s visual art is abstract. The meaning or feeling derived from any particular piece belongs to the viewer alone. “It’s their connection,” he explains. A recent series of work, “Heritage,” was inspired by a trip to Saint Ann Parish, Jamaica, where Carl’s mother was born. He and other family members took the trip only to find that she was not exaggerating when she mentioned having to walk four hours from their home to the market each day.

While structure is important, Carl now dreams of a community of neighbors in the truest sense, where people take care of each other. “That would be a really healthy way to live.”

Contact:

EAST AUSTIN 1901 e 7th St. | (512) 981-MoDS NORTH AUSTIN

DALLAS

9112 AnDerSon Mill rD. Ste. A500 AuStin, tX 78729 (512) 953-SKin (7546)

502 S Fitzhugh Ave. DAllAS, tX 75223 (214) 235-9473

carlbrunson.com carl@carlbrunson.com @carlbrunson {the tasty side of austin}

WWW.SHAMANMODS.COM eastsideatx.com

eastside | events

9THINGS WE LOVE IN

AUGUST&

SEPTEMBER

Danny Schmidt & Carrie Elkin

August 20, 7:30-9:30pm

Back to the Future at the Drive-In

Stream a live performance by Carrie Elkin and Danny Schmidt from the Blue Rock Texas State. These award-winning Austin artists will fill the evening with their energy, wit, spirit, and music. Purchase a ticket for the livestream online for $25.

bluerocktexas.com/events

August 14, 8:50pm

Load up the car for a movie night as Blue Starlite Drive-In shows Back to the Future or the Grease Sing Along on August 7-8. Order a concession package to be delivered to your car, or bring your own snacks. All movie-goers must remain inside the car to watch the film. Tickets start at $25 per car slot.

2103 E M Franklin Ave. | bluestarlitedrivein.com

Yoga and Meditation

Stay Home Book Club

September 6, 10-11am

Yoga lovers unite during Dharma Yoga’s one hour of yoga and meditation. This all-levels course will take place over Zoom and be led by Dharma Yoga founder, Keith Kachtick. For those unable to stream in, consider joining on any Sunday or tune in Thursday nights for Gentle Yoga. The class is free; however, participants are encouraged to donate through PayPal or Venmo. Email kkachtick@gmail.com for a link to the class.

3317 Manor Road | dharma-yoga.net

aGLIFF 33: Prism

agliff. org

14 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Book lovers come together with Boss Babes ATX for a virtual discussion over the book, Wow, No Thank You by Samantha Irby. The meeting will be informal and flow in any direction the conversation takes participants. Register online to receive a free link to the Zoom discussion. Donations are accepted at registration. bossbabes.org

As hiring freezes and staff shortages continue to affect the city, Austin Parks Foundation needs the community’s assistance to help clean park trails and green spaces. Practice social distancing while getting outside by volunteering to help clean a park near you. Simply grab a trash bag and gloves, and head to the park. Be sure to tag them on social media. austinparks.org

Digital Collections

August 6-16, times vary

The 33rd annual All Genders, Lifestyles, and Identities Film Festival (aGLIFF) is going virtual. Join others to enjoy Austin’s oldest film festival by viewing features, documentaries, and shorts over two weekends. Memberships and badges are available for both weekends, with members given priority access to tickets for film streams. Badges start at $35, while memberships starts at $300.

August 17, 6-8pm

Solo Park Clean Up

September 19, all day

Mixed Media Collage Making August 8, 11am

Make a mixed media collage with Whitney Avra in The Cathedral’s virtual workshop. Learn how to combine colors and mixed media materials on top of a black and white portrait of a woman. See how to make old vintage images pop with bright, bold colors, fabrics, sequins, paper collage elements, and more. Curbside pickup for materials is available through August 7. Tickets start at $85.thecathedralatx.com

Explore a variety of digital collections through the Harry Ransom Center any day of the week. From the holograph works of Charlotte and Emily Bronte to the Circus collection of chippings, photographs, posters, and programs pertaining to dozens of American and foreign circuses, the collections online are a great resource to learn from home.

hrc.contentdm.oclc.org

find more at eastsideatx.com

Nature – It’s About Relationship September 27, 2-5pm

Join Taino and Friends for an interactive workshop as they learn why healing relationships with nature is important. Discover how the arts is a natural way to experience the connection to the earth. Whether in-person at the Puerto Rican Cultural Center or through livestream at home, this lesson will be delivered with Taino music and dance for all.

prfdance.org/mission.htm

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eastside | entertainment

Representation in Reading

Learning to Inspire and Teach Kids WORDS BY Sam

Lauron PHOTOS BY Eric Morales

As both a teacher and a mother to a young son, Porsha Hodge understands the important role reading plays in a child’s development. But what she’s also discovered in both of her roles is the massive gap in the children’s book space: books featuring children of color.

he problem is not necessarily that books focused on children of color aren’t being published. "There are actually quite a few," Porsha notes, but as she began reading with her son, she realized that diverse

16 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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books are not as easily accessible as books featuring white children. “I used to walk around the children’s section at bookstores and pull out all of the books that had children of color on the

cover,” she recalls. “And then I would sit around and read those books with my son.” Struck with the realization that she also didn’t have access to books featuring kids of color when she was growing up, Porsha was determined to give her son a different experience so he could “make more of a connection with representation” early on in life. Porsha began to write her own children’s book titled Cocoa Delight and Her Chocolate Chip Tears as a way to help bridge the gap and contribute her own piece to the narrative. In the process, however, she realized there was an opportunity to create a platform for books that represent diversity like hers: one that encompasses everything for which Porsha is passionate.

Cocoa Delight and Her Chocolate Chip Tears Porsha’s first

book—which she self-published this month—is about compassion, self-love, and self-identity, specifically when it comes to Black girls and their natural hair. “Everybody is different,” she states. “But there’s beauty in embracing and celebrating those differences and just showing yourself love.”

Happy Homes Made Simple. Mom Owned. Mom Approved.

L.I.T. Kids—which stands for Learning to Inspire and Teach—is an educational platform that focuses on providing children with diverse books and learning opportunities. As part of their initiative, L.I.T. Kids offers a monthly book box that includes 2-3 books featuring children of color, one educational tool, and one fun activity. The boxes are geared toward children ages birth to 8 and are available as a one-time purchase or a monthly subscription. Aside from providing educational opportunities for children, Porsha also hopes that L.I.T. Kids can serve as a platform for Black self-published authors. As a self-published author herself, Porsha is keenly aware of the obstacles one faces when trying to get their book in as many hands as possible. She hopes to provide more opportunity to authors who are seeking exposure by encouraging them to send their book to L.I.T. Kids for review to potentially be included as the featured book of the month. “I read every book to my son, so he’s kind of like the book reviewer,” she laughs. Though L.I.T. Kids is just getting started, Porsha already has big goals for the business. To achieve her mission of providing literacy development through representation, she wants to reach children all over the world. “I want to make this as nationwide, or even as worldwide, as possible so more kids will have access to books of color in their home.”

Contact:

litkidsbooks.com IG: @l.i.t.kids FB: @LitLoveLearn litlovelearn@gmail.com

FA M I LY F I R S T. AUSTIN F IRST. WOMAN OWNED. GIVE US A CALL TODAY! (512) 766-1519 WWW.AUSTINPLUMBERY.COM

{the tasty side of austin}

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Comfort finding your

Where a Litt le Heart and Soul Me et in the Middle BY Jessi

18 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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Devenyns

Country Boyz Fixins

t is uncanny how the smell of a childhood dish or the sound of a sizzling fryer can serve up comfort, carefree memories and a sense of belonging. Perhaps the secret lies in the familiarity of the recipes and the assurance that, regardless of how far life travels, fried fish will remain best paired with a po-boy bun, collard greens still have a way of making vegetables an indulgence, and migas will always be a foolproof way to improve any morning. Across East Austin, clouds of comforting scents billow out of kitchens, carrying memories and telling stories of history, culture, and home to diners anticipating that good, ol’ classic cuisine. So pull up a chair, sit down, and dig into some delicious Southern dishes.

THE

BEST OLD

FASHIONED

Rosewood

When it comes to comforting cocktails, an Old Fashio ned is one of the most distinguished choices. Thou gh originally a Kentucky liquo r, Texas has its fair share of stately whiskey s to choose fro m, and few bars know ho w to honor th at Texas craft liquor better th an Rosewood where an old fashioned cocktail is mad e just the way it shou ld be: bold and smooth.

PHOTOS BY

Shelby Bella & Ashley Haguewood

SUPPLEMENTAL PHOTOS BY

Eric Morales & Richard Casteel

Those who are looking to get their fix of good, homemade comfort should look no further than Country Boyz where the fried okra is crisp, the last spoonful of gumbo is liable to foster a fight, and the specials keep customers coming back for more. This institution has long been a destination when a craving for chicken and dumplings, alligator, chitterlings or smothered pork chops arises. Scratch made and served up steaming, a trip to Country Boyz is the fastest way to savor those southern roots. 4140 E 12th St | (512) 928-5555

THE

BESCTHEESE

TO PIMEN

en ’s Kitchhave the n e e l l Co n’s, guests imento

p ee heesy At Coll r the c o iscuit v b a s y tr to n option ess on a cou s and n d onio le goodn k ric p with eet sou layered lled on a sw em o h ri h g up wit ranch, d e rv e d n , or s chips a dough potato . m ja made to t toma e e w s a

Terry’s Seafood & Chicken

THE

BE FRIED ST

CH Terry’s ICKEN Seafoo Terry’s S d eafood

& Chick how to en know marinate s the chic just the ken with right am ount of ensure spice to it’s crisp y on the and juic outside y on the inside.

The light blue building on the edge of Airport Blvd has been a fixture in the community since the middle of the 20th century, and for over 50 years, Terry’s has continued to supply the neighborhood with fresh hot chicken sandwiches and flash fried oysters. Waiting for the arrival of a steaming plate of juicy butterfly shrimp and corn nuggets is an exercise in anticipation. The phone rings continuously and a steady stream of customers pass by to collect their orders and supply themselves with ample tartar sauce and vinegar-based hot sauce to flavor the already well-seasoned dishes coming out of the fryer. Don’t be surprised if your weekly to-go order ends up with a few extras after tasting the savory goodness of the catfish and stuffed crab. 1805 Airport Blvd. | (512) 477-3237

Roland’s Soul Food & Fish For years, Roland’s Soul Food was recognizable by its orange exterior. While the façade has been freshened with a blue coat of paint, the food they serve up is still hearty. The oxtail is a favorite and is best when served on top of rice to sop up the extra sauce. The dish is only improved when accompanied by cornbread, mac and cheese, and some mixed greens. It can be tempting to take an order to-go, because Roland’s serves everything in a container. However, it is wise to stay for dessert, for the peach cobbler is sure to be reminiscent of the good ol’ days. 1311 Chestnut Ave. | (512) 499-8833

20 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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THE

Mickle

BEST G RITS

With so hwait Cra ft Meat many c corn, g reation s s base rits ma d y be on unique e of the on contrib most u erners. Grit lov tions from so uthers and will not novice be disa s alike serving ppointe of jalap d with eño ch a Mickle eese g thwait’s rits from . Chee packag s y , grainy, ed with and a tiny k spice, ick o there’s nothing f not to love.

THE

BEST

HUSHPUPP IES

Austin Dail y

Press Known as hu shpuppies to most, at ADP thes e bite-sized nuggets of fried corn are called Jpups due to the jumpstarted version of a classic th at they serv e with an infusion of jalapeños an d a side of spicy ranch for dipping. It’s a little bit of Texas rolled up in a bite from th e South.

E H T

T S E B ICED TEA

Flyrite Chicken & Contigo

Summertime demands a sip of that iconic Southern beverage to cool off. Whether it’s a classic sweet tea from Flyrite or a jazzed up Arnold Palmer made with sparkling honey basil lemonade from Contigo, it will be hard to be anything but refreshed.

FRIED FISH

Mr. Catfish

Their 3-plate special comes with fried catfish that is cooked to perfection: a crisp cornmeal coating and a flaky inside. Add their peppery mac and cheese and fried okra, and you’ll feel you just arrived at grandpa’s house. This long-time Eastside establishment has a live blues night, too.

MENUDO

El Mana

While this unassuming trailer in a parking lot on East 38 1/2 Street serves up tacos, there is often a menudo special written up on the board that is absolutely worth ordering. While the hearty soup is most often associated with wintertime comfort, adding an extra dollop of spice to complement the flavor-laden combination of tripe and hominy suddenly makes the air outside feel almost agreeable.

MIGAS

Joe’s Bakery

Those who have lived in Texas long enough and have needed a pick-me-up have likely discovered the virtues of a plate of migas. This Tex-Mex breakfast dish is a staple, but it really shines at Joe’s Bakery where the staff takes eggs, tortilla chips, onions, tomatoes, jalapeños, and cheese and transforms them into a breakfast that brightens up any day.

Sawyer & Co. Good Friends, Good Food, and Fair Prices

Stephen Shallcross designed Sawyer & Co to recreate his memories of being a student at the University of Texas in the early 1990s and sitting down for blue plate specials at what was then known as Arkie’s Grill. “It literally felt like walking into my living room at my house in Baton Rouge. So I kept going back not only because the food was good, but it was also a place where they made you feel at home,” Stephen recalls. Thirty years later, Sawyer & Co remains dedicated to creating a living room-like atmosphere that serves up plates of comfort and cultivates conversation. “Comfort food is the hospitality of food. It's the food that makes you feel a certain way. And when you feel nostalgic and loved, cherished and cared for, and welcomed and special, it's something that triggers a memory of eating, [and] that is what's so fun to me about it,” he smiles. Whether it’s a plate of shrimp and grits or Cajun fried turkey with cornbread dressing and cranberry orange relish, a dish at Sawyer’s is sure to be served up with a smile and a story. Even the simplest blackened catfish and chicken and sausage gumbo can trigger a lengthy dialogue with staff over the ideal ratio of chicken to sausage or how spicy catfish should come out of the pan. Sawyer & Co remains loyal to its traditional southern roots but keeps the spirit of culinary creativity alive. While Stephen reveals that many of the dishes are those that were on the menu when the diner was known as Arkie’s, he says that some are transplants straight from New Orleans. Yet others are collaborations that have come out of the back of the kitchen. “The best food tells a story,” he explains. In a way, the diner’s food functions as an almanac of Stephen’s life journey. His supper dishes and brunch specials are meant to evoke memories from diners with each mouthful. Regardless if a patron hails from Louisiana or the Lone Star State, Sawyer & Co has a menu tailored to cater to everyone at the same table. “Arkie’s motto was Good Friends, Good Food, and Fair Prices,” Stephen says. “We've tried to be respectful and honor that. You know, we’re still a place for good friends, good food, and fair prices.” 4827 E Cesar Chavez St. | (512) 531-9033 sawyerand.co

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The Rolling Rooster A new addition to East 11th Street, The Rolling Rooster boasts a menu that aims to touch one’s soul. Inspired by recipes handed down from generations, the restaurant specializes in chicken & waffles, a dish that is cooked with care to ensure that distinctive crunch for both the meat and its doughy bed. The catfish is also a worthy dish with cornmeal breading and a vinegar-based hot sauce that pairs well with fried jalapeño bombers. In a nod to its roots, the restaurant is located where the historic Victory Grill blues club used to stand, and the restaurant owners maintain the stage for blues and R&B musical performances. When visiting in person, this local diner is sure to appeal to all the senses.

ESET 3B C & CH ESE

No need to pick just one

1104 E 11th Street therollingrooster.com

There are as many recipes for macaroni and cheese as there are families in the South. From Hillside Farmacy’s signature blend of Taleggio, aged white cheddar, and bread crumbs, which should always include the broccoli, to Terry Black’s Barbecue’s traditional cheesy rendition that tastes of childhood Friday nights, the best choice of mac will always remain a point of contention. While there may be no right answer, another mention goes to Rollin Smoke BBQ where the shell noodles are infused with woodsmoke for a barbecue-tinged masterpiece.

THE

BEST

KOLACHES Teal House Coffee &Bakery Kolaches are those wonderful pockets of sweet air filled with seasonal fruit that rose out of generations of Eastern European cuisine cooking in Texas kitchens. Although there are plenty of places to grab one of these sweet buns, Teal House Coffee and Bakery really knows how to balance the saccharine juices of fresh fruit with the yeasty pillows that are the bedrock of a delicious kolache, or any sweet treat on their menu for that matter..

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THE

BEST

CHICKEN FRIED STEAK

Jacoby’s Restaurant & Mercantile

It wouldn’t be Texas if chicken fried steak did not appear on the menu. Although no chickens are harmed in the making of this dish – the chicken part of the name only refers to the breading that protects the sirloin from contact with the elements – somehow the naming convention stuck, and Jacoby’s uses this unmistakable name to its best advantage. The restaurant uses meat directly from the family ranch that has been dry aged before it arrives on the plate smeared with black pepper gravy.

26 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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Hoover’s Cooking For over 20 years, Hoover Alexander has cultivated a neighborhood watering hole with Southern-style comfort food. While all the classics like chicken fried steak and catfish are on the menu, Hoover’s shines for its dessert menu which features scratch made pies, banana pudding, and cobbler. Each slice of sweetness is an excuse to call a friend and organize an afternoon chat over a shared indulgence. But who’s to say indulgence is limited to sweets? The Beet-o-Ritas at Hoover’s are a cheerful pink slurry that asks guests to sip back and relax into good flavors and good company. 2002 Manor Rd. | (512) 479-5006 hooverscooking.com

Cherrywood Coffeehouse Though the concept for this neighborhood eatery was born in Texas, its chef calls Louisiana home, and the result is a smorgasbord of options that include breakfast tacos and huevos rancheros alongside some of the best shrimp and grits and biscuits and gravy in the county. With ceramic cups and plastic plates, the diner food is unfailingly delicious as it is unpretentious. The shrimp and grits is delicately sautéed in white wine before cozying up to some sautéed bacon, onions, tomatoes, with creamy grits. It also comes with eggs for an extra layer of decadence. Those who bring the family for the food end up becoming regulars because of the community that is created here. 1400 E 38th 1/2 St. | (512) 538-1991 cherrywoodcoffeehouse.com

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SEAFO O Krab K D Tender ingz crab m e

cob, po at, corn tatoe -onare laye s, and jumbo thered wit h Cajun shrimp and bu ttery-d ecaden spices melt-in ce. The -you se what p r-mouth dish es are atrons h a v e come expect from K rab Kin to gz.

Sassy’s Vegetarian Soul Food It tastes like home

Much like anyone would expect from a soul food establishment, wisps of smoky paprika and sweetly tinged caramel drift out of the open window of Sassy’s Vegetarian Soul Food truck. However, unlike traditional restaurants, everything on Andrea Dawson’s menu is plant-based. Chicken and waffles, greens, black-eyed peas, hot water cornbread, and fried cabbage announce their presence on the truck’s menu board, and a line of customers snaking around the gravel patio is a testament to the tastes that are only hinted at by the smells wafting through the air. Though a destination today, originally convincing the average passerby that vegetarian soul food was even a viable concept was not an easy feat. Doing so required a dash of nostalgia and a drop of liquid smoke. “If you didn’t have meat for dinner, this is what you had,” explains Andrea indicating her savory greens and creamy black-eyed peas. “I mean, this is the stuff that grandma always made.” She smiles and admits that grandma probably didn’t employ liquid smoke and instead used bacon rashers, but “it's close enough, and it's still good.” Sassy’s menu relies heavily on dishes that originated from vegetables. One of her signatures is something that Andrea conceptualized herself: Chicon N Waffles. This crispy chicken analogue consists of house-made seitan and sits atop an eggless waffle before it is drizzled with a pumpkin spice coconut syrup. The sweetness of the syrup is balanced against a kick of spice before the entire chorus of flavor decrescendos against the savory seitan. To keep things interesting, the seitan comes in hot pepper lemon, orange, and jerk seasoning flavors. According to Andrea, everything is made by her in order to achieve the consistency and texture that she remembers from her past. One of her favorites is the fried cabbage, which was a childhood treat. She also gives a runner-up nod to her “Creamy Blackeye Peas,” which are made with a sweet and savory medley of spices that are reminiscent of the Far East. The trick is balancing creativity with familiarity. That is what she suggests makes a plate of Southern comfort so indispensable. She says fondly, “It tastes like home.” 1403 E 7th Street | (214) 703-6617 sassys-vegetarian-soul-food.business.site

THE

BEDSCT HEESE

GRILLE Cheese Emoji Grilled cken to

uffalo Chi From their B ery Cheddar, ev on ac B their at Emoji h ic w nd sa grilled cheese pun a smile. No is served with known e ar s lk fo e es intended. Th omer service for their cust childhood c si and clas favorites.

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SUN TEA

y nda Darb By Ama

Sun tea is special and marks magnificent and fleeting summers from days past. Early in the morning, Grandma would carry a huge jar filled with cool water that cast off sparkling rainbows along wood paneling down the porch steps. She’d place it on the wobbliest wooden side table in the lumpiest spot on the grass, take a long inhale from her cigarette and drop nearly ten tea bags into the glistening water. It was placed in the same spot as last time, and the time before that, guaranteeing maximum sun exposure. The jar would marinate there for hours, just sunbathing in all the glory. All day, I would play under the shade of her magnolia tree and work up a thirst by eating raw tomatoes, straight out of Grandpa’s garden, smothered in barely edible amounts of salt. But I’d have to wait. As the sky turned into a purple haze, the tea was done. She’d pick up the glass jar and bring it to the fridge to cool overnight, because even though Grandma smoked like a chimney, there's a rule to always be followed: never serve a child tea right before bedtime. The next morning we’d have a glass at lunch with Wonder bread sandwiches and soak in all its refreshing goodness. Yields: 32 oz. brewed tea Ingredients:

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Rosewoo Once again, which is farm fresh and , ra ok its ea tempura tion for ed in chickp lovingly toss airy crunch to contrast an that imparts rs. To keep ky okra spea ic st e th ith w time staples er m m su these ño yogurt things spicy, pe la ja a with are served up i sauce that provide rr and chimichu r explosion when vo maximum fla together. swirled

1 glass quart jar with lid (no plastic) 6 black, Assam, Oolong tea bags (Lipton recommended) 1 lemon or orange, sliced Directions: Fill the jar to the top with 1 inch of room from

the lid (head space). Add tea bags and set the jar in direct sun. After 6 hours, take inside to chill overnight. Serve over ice and, if preferred, add a slice of lemon or orange. The refreshing drink can be enjoyed immediately at the end of the day, but caffeine sensitive souls might possibly be up all night.

Amanda Darby is the founder and owner of East Austin Culinary Studio. Her passion for cooking stems from the joy and memories that cooking evokes. She opened East Austin Culinary Studio to share with the community that cooking does not have to be hard nor perfect. Good food, regardless of its simplicity, has the power to bring people together and create lasting memories.

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30 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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Go+ do

August +Sept 2020

32 go&do wellness

AUSTIN HEALTH COMMONS IS AIMING TO BUILD AND SUSTAIN A SHARED HUMANITY

34 go create

EXTRA TIME ON YOUR HANDS? EXPLORE ONE OF THESE TRIED AND TRUE HOBBIES THAT IS SURE TO LIFT THE SPIRITS.

eastside | go&do

Where Health Happens

Reclaiming the “Healthy Community” Jess Hagemann Nick Berard PORTRAITS BY Eric Morales WORDS BY

PHOTOS BY

Since 2016, the medical and professional teams at Austin Health Commons, a local nonprofit, have been committed to “creating health where health happens.” For founder Dr. Amina Haji, that looks like “our homes, our schools, our workplaces, and our neighborhoods. Health is what we cook and eat. It’s our daily routines.” As such, part of AHC’s holistic approach also involves racial healing—and new as of 2020, a COVID-19 direct relief program. 32 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

ccording to Dr. Haji, “Only about 11% of health outcomes are determined by clinical care.” The remaining 89% are influenced by factors like lifestyle and built environment. When those environments are ethnically and/ or socioeconomically homogeneous, she believes that community members grow up isolated from and divided against one another. Disparities emerge, for example, in the expected lifespan of White and Black Americans. “There’s a ten-year lifespan difference between a white female and an African American man,” Dr. Haji says—“the result of systems in place since this nation’s founding.” To heal from what she calls a “root cause perspective" then requires facing these divisions head-on. Enter Austin Health Common’s (AHC) racial healing circles. Initially offered in partnership with the YMCAs of Hays, Williamson, and Travis counties, but now available online in a virtual format, healing circles are open to anyone. Each circle brings together an intentionally diverse group of 10-15 attendees—“so that you are in spaces with people who look different than you,” says Dr. Haji—and is led by a trained facilitator. Through storytelling and a series find more at eastsideatx.com

of exercises, participants “come to find [their] shared humanity.” Sharon Ellerby, one of AHC’s 14 Racial Healing Practitioners, compares each healing circle to a “welcoming, supportive, and reassuring” space that grants attendees the freedom to participate or “just listen.” Whether or not attendees share their own story, they are exposed to the stories of others, and it’s “through those stories, we get a better understanding of each other,” Ellerby asserts. “The only negative feedback we’ve received thus far,” adds Yolanda Moten, AHC’s Director of Programs and Operations, “is that [the sessions] aren’t long enough!” After COVID-19 began impacting Austin’s economy, AHC saw an opportunity to expand their programming. “One of our facilitators asked, ‘How can you be doing just racial healing when there are people who can’t pay their bills?’” Dr. Haji says. And thus, Program Director Moten was consequently tasked with developing a relief program that could “match those with capacity [that is, financial capacity or surplus resources],” she says, “to those with needs.” The five primary needs that the program meets are cash assistance, food donations, supplies like

masks and hand sanitizer, logistical help (think running errands for the elderly), and emotional check-ins. Historically, AHC has served Austin’s “Eastern crescent,” a region lately defined by gentrification and the ongoing displacement of its minority residents. As people with more resources move in, Moten says, “There are a lot of people who want to give and don’t know how.” Through AHC’s COVID-19 relief program, she hopes to “connect the community together, where they can better help each other.”

Contact:

Amina Haji, AHC Founder (512) 348-6455 austinhealthcommons.org @austinhealthcommons

The Karisha Center In addition to racial healing and COVID-19 relief, as early as Fall 2021 Austin Health Commons will debut The Karisha Center. Featuring guest-guided group healthcare visits, The Karisha Center will keep costs low and “really draw on the wisdom in the community” by offering appointments that combine visits from a physician, a nutritionist, a cooking instructor, and more in the quest to reclaim the healthy community paradigm.

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eastside | go&do

best

Timeless Hobbies Back to Simple Things in Life WORDS BY

Bethany Wales

The demands of juggling a job and a family can make it tricky to carve out personal time. These timeless hobbies can help to escape the rat race, stay active, and savor more of that precious leisure time.

1 2

Kite Flying

Sometimes all that’s needed to lift spirits is a piece of string, a fabric sail, and a windy day. Kite flying has been around for centuries and provides a soothing combination of fresh air, exercise, and whimsy. Its more recent popularity continues today just as it has for decades.

Bread Making

Is there any smell more delicious than a handmade loaf turning golden in the oven? Homemade bread is immensely healthier than its store bought cousins, and the making and baking process has proven therapeutic benefits. It might sound complex, but to get started in this hobby, many simple options are available, including no-yeast soda bread, skillet focaccia, and bubbling sourdough. Read more about bread making on page 44.

34 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Roller Skating

Roller skating is not only a fantastic, low impact workout but also just down right fun! Suitable for all ages, this energetic pastime is a great way to get active as a family and offers plenty of opportunities to meet new people. Looking to burn some stress? Then check out a roller derby session at Pan Am’s Roller Derby track. It looks aggressive, but with the right safety gear, skating is a relatively injury-free sport. Pan Am’s Roller Derby Track, 301 Chicon St.

Foraging

Texas has an abundant wild harvest, with prickly pears, mulberries, and tart mustang grapes all readily available. Foraging is a wonderful way to fill the pantry with seasonal goodies and a unique way to reconnect with nature.

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Grab a basket and an identification guide (in the form of a book or an app), then take a stroll through one of East Austin’s abundant greenbelts or trails along Walnut Creek. It’s amazing what edible treats can be found along the way.

Stargazing

Texas ranks number four in the world on the International Dark Sky Association’s best places to stargaze, with around 2,000 stars visible to the naked eye. Stargazing apps, like Sky Guide and Google Sky Map, make mapping the night sky simple. Many new constellations fill the sky like distant, glittering sparklers in the night. So escape the city lights, and drive 30 minutes east to Elgin which is wellknown for its clear dark skies.

Skateboarding

Forget what you think you know about skateboarding. Skateboarding is familiar to everyone. But this entertaining hobby is not only about flips and tricks, it’s also a fun way to cruise around town. Skating is great for adults and kids, an affordable hobby, and offers plenty of room for progression. If you're feeling gutsy and more adventurous, Patterson Park has a mini ramp near their parking lot, and there’s also a shady playground, covered pavilion, and neighborhood pool. Patterson Neighborhood Park, 4200 Brookview Rd.

CHRIS CHANDLER LOVES AUSTIN… “because the people look you in the eyes and greet you as you walk by!” Senior SoulCycle Instructor Passion: Connecting with people and hearing their stories Favorite food: Plow Burger and Lil Nonna’s at Buzzmill Favorite drink: Old Fashioned at South Congress Hotel Zoom Teeth Whitening by AUSTIN DENTAL SPA

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• 15 min from Bergstrom International Airport • Easy access to 183

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• Short walk to Walnut Creek • 10 min Uber drive to Downtown • Google fiber • Metal roofs

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1520 OLIVER STREET, HOUSTON, TX

M (512) 789-8778 8303 Mopac, Austin, TX 78759

Home + away

August +Sept 2020

38 home

STEP INSIDE A HISTORIC CHERRYWOOD CHARMER UPDATED TO ACCOMMODATE A GROWING FAMILY.

40 away

MAKE YOUR WAY TO THE TEXAS SHORE WHERE A QUIET BEACH TOWN AWAITS.

eastside | home

Where the Heart Is

A neighborhood makes a home. WORDS BY Christopher PHOTOS BY

38 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Ryan Davis

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Ferguson, AIA

Specific care was taken to feature fixtures original to the home, Lindsay’s collection of antique furniture and work from artists local to Austin and Los Angeles, such as K’era Morgan, Caitlin B. Alexander, Sarah Frankie Linder, Katie Lynn, and Cuneiform Press.

Faced with the dilemma to relocate or renovate, a growing family embraces Cherrywood’s charm, sensitively updating an historic 1930s French Place home while preserving priceless community bonds.

fter growing up in Louisiana before later bouncing between New York and Boston, Lindsay Olinde was looking for a bit of nostalgic, southern charm when she and her husband, Joseph, found their way to Austin in 2008. They purchased a modest, 1930s traditional single-family home, embedding themselves in the walkable and charming neighborhood of Cherrywood. Marked by well-used front porches and a diverse, close-knit community, the location was perfect. But a decade later, the family was growing, and so were their needs. Unwilling to uproot themselves from the community they had come to adore, the family decided to renovate, with one critical stipulation: the home’s character and sense of place had to be maintained. Enlisting the help of local design-build firm CG&S was critical to the success of the project, according to Lindsay. “They came to the table prepared, were great listeners, and

made coordination easy throughout the decision-making process, which was ongoing until the very last day.” Since the bones of the home were in remarkable shape for their age, simple modifications yielded huge payoffs. Eliminating walls that separated a cramped dining room, breakfast nook, and galley kitchen gave the home a new, central living space. Modestly expanding the footprint to accommodate a play area and backyard-facing sunroom also supported this main area without altering the home’s humble street presence. Creating framed sightlines to the outdoors and between rooms was also important. Uninterrupted views between the entry and kitchen window, as well as the connection between the front study and rear sunroom, are two especially important datums that help the family maintain a sense of connection even when spread out. With the dust finally settled, Lindsay is filled with gratitude, not only for her loving family {the tasty side of austin}

and dedicated team at CG&S who made the project possible but also for her friends, neighbors, and community who make the house a home.

Contact:

CG&S Design Build (512) 444-1580 402 Corral Ln. cgsdb.com @cgsdesignbuild eastsideatx.com

eastside | away

Day One

A Weekend In

The City by the Bay South-Bound 35 WORDS BY Ben

Haguewood

If you're in the mood for a little slower pace, Rockport is a convenient choice for a long, laid-back weekend. You can get to the more popular beaches of Port Aransas and Mustang Island with a short ferry ride, or stay secluded on the bayside of the Laguna Madre.

40 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Hit the Beach: Rockport Beach Park has everything beachgoers want for a relaxing day: golden sandy stretch of beaches studded with palm umbrellas and salty, emerald water gently breaking on the shore. Bring a beach chair, a cooler, and a book. It's the perfect place to do what we all know we need but keep putting off: to unplug, so ditch the phone.

Day Two Catch and Cook: Laguna Madre, the bay between Texas's mainland and the barrier islands of North Padre, Mustang, and South Padre, is

a renowned fishery for redfish, speckled sea trout, black drum, sheepshead, and many other sport fish. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good chance of catching a fish with your own gear and little to no experience on Rockport's public pier or a private dock. However, local fishing guides are easy to come by, and an excellent place to start is Rockport's certified Orvis dealer Swan's Point Landing. If you're new to fishing the Texas coast, it's always beneficial to go with a guide at least once to learn the basics from a pro. If you're lucky (or skilled) on the water and manage to land some keepers, many local restaurants will cook your catch.

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Try Paradise Key Dockside Bar and Grill at the Rockport marina for a grilled, fried, blackened, or jerked treatment on your bounty or Los Comales for a spicy South Texas take on seafood where grilled fish tacos are an obvious choice.

Day Three If you've had your fill of relaxation, get out on one of the area bike trails. Aransas Pathways is the best guide to bike trails and kayak canals for a self-guided tour to see local birds and wildlife. Visitors often spot whooping cranes, foxes, blue crabs, and more than 300 bird varieties but watch out for gators.

WHERE TO STAY Hotels and online rentals are abundant in the area. For budget-minded travelers, stay at Goose Island State Park for tent and RV camping and access to additional trails and bay marshes where wildlife abound.

Sip+ taste

August +Sept 2020

42 taste feature BIRD BIRD

BISCUIT SERVES UP CREATIVE TWISTS ON COMFORTING

CLASSIC FLAVORS.

44 taste expert

NO OTHER SIMPLE PASTIME WARMS THE SOUL AND

FILLS THE BELLIES

QUITE LIKE BREAD MAKING.

48 dining guide

A CURATED GUIDE TO THE BEST PLACES TO GRAB A BITE IN EAST AUSTIN

50 sip

feature

HOW TWO LOCALS ARE KEEPING FAMILY TIES ON THE EASTSIDE WITH THEIR REFRESHING BEVERAGES

eastside | taste

Birds of a Feather

Cooking Up Love in Every Bite WORDS BY

Christopher Ferguson, AIA Bella

PHOTOS BY Shelby

A combination of luck, experimentation, and friendship has allowed Bird Bird Biscuit to quickly establish itself as a local East Austin favorite.

s head chef, general manager, and co-owner of Bird Bird Biscuit, Brian Batch is accustomed to wearing many hats, but his passion lies behind the griddle serving up and fine-tuning some of East Austin’s most adored breakfast and lunch sandwiches. Alongside partner and longtime friend Ryan McElroy of Thunderbird Coffee, “Bird Bird,” as the duo affectionately calls it, has been offering a daily dose of flaky and flavorful goodness since June 2018. Far from complacent with their near-instant success, the pair have continued to refine and expand their menu, with an eye toward dinner offerings in the not-too-distant future.

42 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

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Be Your Own Beautiful!

INTRODUCTORY

FULL CLASSIC NATURAL LASHES FOR $99! CALL 512.648.LASH AND MENTION PROMO CODE IFS99 TO BOOK

THE LASH LOUNGE AUSTIN – MUELLER 1911 Aldrich St. #140, Austin TX 78723 Follow us on social media! @thelashloungeaustin

“I’ve heard people say not to mix business and friendship, but we wouldn’t have done this any other way,” admits Brian with a smile. Ryan is quick to agree, “The genius of Bird Bird is Brian. If there’s a biscuit-whisperer on the Eastside, it’s him.” “Simplicity and excellence” was the mantra from the outset, and, like most simple and excellent things, the winning formula didn’t happen overnight. After hundreds of test batches, revisions to the menu, and even a reinvention of their core business model in response to the shutdown, the pair are enthusiastic that, after two successful years in business, they’re finally hitting their stride.

SPECIALIZED SERVICES

To first time diners, the “Queen Beak” is the must-try, signature sandwich. A delightful combination of sweet and savory, a perfectly brined and flaky breaded chicken thigh rests between two halves of a fluffy, handmade buttermilk biscuit. Expertly balanced flavors of cayenne black pepper honey and bacon-infused chipotle mayo will tickle the taste buds like few recipes can.

• Full Charge Bookkeeping • • Payroll • QuickBooks • • Inventory • Invoicing • • Purchase Orders • • Accounts Receivable • • Preparation of Annual & Quarterly Taxes • • Sales Tax • LLC Formations •

For those looking for comfort in an uncomfortable time, Bird Bird offers a delicious respite where evident love, thought, and care can be savored in every bite – direct from Brian’s griddle.

Contact:

2701 Manor Road (512) 761-4922 birdbirdbiscuit.com @birdbirdbiscuit

alitca @ agruedabookkeeping . com

| (512) 963-9387

Stop by: 2823 e mlk blvd. Suite 130

{the tasty side of austin}

eastsideatx.com

eastside | taste expert

The Best Things in Life are the Simplest. WORDS BY

Justin Butts RECIPE BY Kayla Butts Benevides

PHOTOS BY Rachel

Bread is simple. Profoundly simple. Mind-blowingly simple.

ot so long ago, every home in America featured freshly-baked bread on a daily basis. That means there was a baker in every home, although no one thought of themselves that way. At some point in the 20th century, bread became an outsourced commodity to the convenience of the supermarket. Outsourcing bread came around the same time that backyard gardens began to be outsourced as well, which disconnected most of society from the source of their food. The appeal of convenience lured home chefs away from their first love, and soon the tradition of baking bread was lost—not just the skills but also the daily example. People quickly forgot how incredibly good every bite of bread should be. Less-than-mediocre became acceptable. Kids grew up thinking that bread comes out of a plastic bag, rather than out of the oven. The process of bread making became a mystery that only factories had figured out. Even worse, many bread recipes over-complicate things: scaling, scoring, folding, kneading, proofing, resting—but it doesn’t sound like resting.

Making bread is this simple: mix together flour, water, salt, and yeast. Let it sit for a while. Bake it. When it is cool enough, eat it. In our farm business, we have made many thousands of loaves of a wide array of freshly-baked artisan breads. We have experimented, invented, and had some failures along the way (and even the failures are glorious). These three recipes are bulletproof. One is a crusty white, one a honey wheat, and one a cornbread. Why cornbread? Because for the last four centuries, wheat (even up north) was rare and expensive, but corn was cheap and readily available. Cornbread was the daily bread—especially in the South. We like this recipe because finishing this quick-rise cornbread is easy while the other breads rise to present all these beautiful loaves together on your table. If we could humbly suggest our best advice to instantly improve your life: first, start a garden. Grow some of your own vegetables and throw some pretty flowers in there, too. Second, bake your own fresh bread. And, if you only do one, definitely bake the bread—preferably daily. These simple things in life, like baking homemade bread, can provide so much contentment, joy, and cherished people gathered around your table. eastsideatx.com

Crusty White Bread

Honey Wheat Bread

Makes: 1 large loaf Prep time: 7 minutes Inactive prep time: ~2 hours Cooking time: 35-40 minutes

Makes: 1 loaf Prep time: 10 minutes Inactive prep time: 3 hours Cook time: 40 minutes

Ingredients: 1 c. bread flour, plus 3 c. bread flour 1 T. plus 1 t. active dry yeast 1 ½ c. water ¼ c. olive oil 2 t. salt Directions: Combine 1 cup bread flour, yeast, and water in a large bowl. Let mixture set for 10 minutes until a foamy sponge is formed. Add in remaining ingredients and knead for 2-3 minutes, until ingredients form a dough. Place dough in a large, greased bowl covered with a tea towel or cling wrap. Let rise for two hours. (Optional: For a more flavorful bread, store dough in the refrigerator for up to one week. Once you’re ready to prepare the bread, remove it from the fridge, let dough rest at room temperature for 30 minutes, and continue with the following steps). Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place a rimmed baking sheet at the bottom of the oven. Carefully transfer dough to a baking sheet and shape into a batard (baton shape). Lightly dust with flour and score with 3 slashes about ¼” deep. Pour a cup of water into the rimmed baking sheet and close oven quickly to trap steam. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until hollow when thumped.

46 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Ingredients: 2 c. all-purpose flour 1 ½ c. whole wheat flour 1 T. active dry yeast 3 T. butter, softened 2 T. honey 1 ½ t. salt 1 1/3 c. water Optional: 1 T. wheat germ Directions: Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Knead the dough with your hands or in a standing mixer for 5 minutes, until a smooth dough is formed. Return dough to the mixing bowl and cover with a tea towel or cling wrap. Let rise for approximately 2 hours, or until doubled in size.

buttermilk 1 c. cornmeal 1 c. all-purpose flour ½ t. salt Directions: Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat butter in a 10” cast iron skillet over low heat. Once melted, set butter aside to cool. In a large bowl, whisk dry ingredients together until well-combined. In a separate bowl, mix honey, eggs, milk, and butter. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Pour batter into skillet and level with a spatula. Cook for about 35 minutes, or until cornbread is golden and set in the middle.

Punch dough down and place in a greased loaf pan. Let dough proof an additional 1 hour. Sprinkle the top of the loaf with wheat germ. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake bread for 35-40 minutes, until the top is golden and the loaf sounds hollow when thumped.

Griddle Cornbread Makes: 16 servings Prep time: 7 minutes Cooking time: 35 min. Ingredients: ½ c. (1 stick) of unsalted butter ½ c. honey 2 eggs 1 c. whole milk or

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O U R FAV E R E S TA U R A N T S

Pick 20

FOR THE EASTSIDE

eastside dining guide Bento Picnic

When the craving for Japanese bento hits, Bento Picnic has you covered. There’s nothing like a fresh and delicious bento box to comfort the soul while indulging in a well-balanced, healthy meal. 2600 E Cesar Chavez St. | bentopicnic.com

Colleen’s Kitchen

Celebrate any occasion—big or small— at a neighborhood favorite. The southern hospitality and down-home inspired menu includes fried chicken, smoked fish, savory biscuits, and warm chocolate chip cookies. 1911 Aldrich St. #100 | colleensaustin.com

Artessano Taco Bronco

Although the name says taco, the man behind the meat here is none other than Tom Micklethwait. This barbecue masterpiece is where hungry patrons can grab tacos filled with crispy smoked pork carnitas or South Texas boar sausage to go with their beer. Taco Bronco also has family-style smoked meat plates along with meat by the pound ready to dish up. 3220 Manor Rd. | tacobroncotx.com

The fresh tropical fruit juice and the arepas are why you need to visit Artessano. As a food trailer specializing in Colombian food, expect dance music and lots of friendly conversation when you visit. 1211 E 6th St.

S-H Donuts

This unassuming store-front houses an outstanding array of fluffy-light donuts, a variety of kolache flavors, and savory breakfast croissants. Even if the food wasn’t enough, the warmth of the owners Sochea and Sarong make the trip to S-H worth it every time. 5313 Manor Rd.

Flyrite Chicken

Disrupting the fast food industry one sandwich at a time, Flyrite is a drive-thru with all-natural, antibiotic-free chicken as well as gluten-free and vegetarian options. 2129 E 7th St. | flyritechicken.com

Cisco's Intero Restorante

Intero, meaning “whole,” is dedicated to the thoughtful use of every ingredient in their dishes. Homemade pastas, farm-totable plates, and artisan chocolates make up their bold, yet intimate, Italian menu. 2612 E Cesar Chavez St. | interorestaurant.com

La Fruta Feliz

A happy place where breakfast is served all day. Of course, you can also get lunch, but why would you when you can have chilaquiles, huevos rancheros, and authentic breakfast tacos at 8PM? 3124 Manor Rd.

48 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

Buenos Aires Cafe

American cocktails and Argentinian fare make their home side by side at Buenos Aires Cafe. The locally inspired menu offers Argentinian mainstays like empanadas as well as seasonal favorites. 1201 E 6th St. | buenosairescafe.com

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The menu at Cisco’s provides flavorful TexMex options for any meal of the day. Order favorites like their mouth-watering breakfast tacos or comforting cheese enchiladas for dinner. Either way, the food and the service will have you wanting more. 1511 E 6th St. | ciscosaustin.com

eastside | dining guide

TAKE-OUT & DELIVERY OPTIONS AVAILABLE

Paper Route Bakery

Hidden behind a little window next to Cenote, this tiny operation serves up small-batch organic baked goods daily: from cheddar chive scones and strawberry balsamic pop tarts to custom orders. 1010 E Cesar Chavez St. | paper-route-bakery.business.site

Poké Me Long Time

Expect to find vibrant dishes that match the food truck’s colorful personality. With cuisine that’s fresh and packed with flavor, the establishment offers a Japanese-Hawaiian fusion menu that includes poké bowls, soba noodles, and dumplings. For catering options, call (512) 790-0093. 88 Rainey St.

Sour Duck Market

An offshoot of Odd Duck, Sour Duck Market is bringing the same custom approach to the fast-casual dining scene. With a menu packed with local flavors, Sour Duck so deliciously captures the spirit of Austin. 1814 E MLK Jr. Blvd. | sourduckmarket.com

Xian Sushi & Noodle

Cherrywood Coffeehouse

With an expansive patio and a continual rotation of events, you’ll find yourself frequenting for the community as often as food, which is an inviting array of tacos, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and smoothies. 1400 E 38th 1/2 St. | cherrywoodcoffeehouse.com

Austin Daily Press Designed as a cozy neighborhood pub, Oddwood Ales provides a variety of flavorful ales, home-made pizzas, and Italian dishes in a relaxed atmosphere with arcade games and a pet-friendly patio. 3108 Manor Rd. | oddwoodales.com

This Southern-inspired menu features family-raised beef that comes directly from the Jacoby Ranch, served with heaping sides of veggies to match its freshness. Enjoy their signature chicken fried steak or a juicy burger on their cozy patio overlooking the Colorado River. 3235 E Cesar Chavez St. | jacobysaustin.com

Micklethwait Craft Meats

Fresh, hand-pulled noodles are the star of the show at Xian. Enjoy a bowl of Chicken and Vegetable Stir Fry or the Dan Dan where noodles are pulled to guest’s preferred thickness then drenched in authentic Asian flavors. Visit for happy hour to enjoy their $5 menu. 1801 E 51st St., Ste. C370 | xianfresh.com

Oddwood Ales

Jacoby’s

Although known for their ribs, brisket, and smoked lamb, if you’re headed to Micklethwait’s, you can’t forget about the sides. Your meal won’t be the same without a scoop of the jalapeño cheese grits, beet salad, or lemon poppy seed coleslaw. 1309 Rosewood Ave. | craftmeatsaustin.com

Blenders & Bowls

From smoothies to organic bowls of açaí, Blenders & Bowls has healthy grab-n-go items and nutritious meal options. No matter the dish, the natural ingredients serve as an excellent source of energy in which each meal will leave you feeling great. 1625 E 6th St. | blendersandbowls.com

Austin Daily Press has spent the last five years honing their craft, and it shows! The ADP team, led by Chef Reed Faitak and co-owners Dustin Knef and Chase Rushing, have found their voice through creating incredibly flavorful experiences sandwiched between locally baked telera. 1900 E MLK Jr. Blvd. | 4620 E Cesar Chavez St. austindailypress.com {the tasty side of austin}

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3317 Manor Road/Dharma-Yoga.net

eastside | sip

3317 Manor Road/Dharma-Yoga.net

Water Runs Deep

Momo’s Snow Cones WORDS BY

Gigi Hernandez Shelby Bella

PHOTOS BY

Manuel Melendrez Jr. and Enrique Gil III (otherwise known as Ricky) are only in their 20’s. Yet, they are bringing new business to East Austin by reopening Momo’s Snow Cones. In the process, they hope to give life to the Hispanic community by reliving childhood memories from the days of “raspas” and running around the neighborhood, and also by keeping not only family legacy alive but also the community’s culture.

“I

have known Ricky since I was about two years old; we used to live in front of each other on Zaragosa Street,” Manuel says, emphasizing the fact that their business relationship extends beyond that, they are family. During the late ’80s and early ’90s, it was on this same street that their grandparents, Momo and Joe, served snow cones to families and children, becoming directly responsible for bringing a countless amount of cheerful afternoons to

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50 EASTside | Aug/Sep 2020

4646 MUELLER BLVD AUSTIN, TX 78723

the community. And now, Momo and Joe are the driving force behind Momo’s Snow Cones. Manuel and Ricky hope to continue their legacy and create childhood memories through their colorful trailer and traditional Mexican flavors. The signature snow cone flavor of Momo’s is Leche topped with red diced pineapple. Its family recipe originates in Mexico and has been passed down through generations. Another staple and a perfect way to beat the Texas heat is fresh cu-

cumber slices bathed in lemon juice and sprinkled with chili pepper. Pick any hot summer day and the duo at Momo’s can be found on East 7th Street, right between Estrada’s Cleaners and Diana’s Flower Shop, both Austin-iconic businesses belonging to Ricky’s family. “It was very important for the community and us to have Momo’s Snow Cones stationed right here on the Eastside. A lot of the people who used to be our neighbors, including

myself, have relocated to Buda, Kyle, San Antonio, and even The Rio Grande Valley,” Manuel says, “due to rising taxes and other living expenses.” However, as Momo’s continues to grow, Manuel and Ricky hope that they can continue giving back to the community by using their business as a way to keep Hispanic culture alive and make up for what’s been lost by gentrification.

Contact:

2618 E 7th Street @momos_snowcones

Did you know? For a limited time, patrons can enjoy a mega-sized snow cone served in a 32 oz cup with the flavor and toppings of their choice for only $10! find more at eastsideatx.com

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