An Investigation into the Impact of the Second World War on Fashion Through Consumer Buying Behaviour
Emily Hyde P14145599 TEXT 1404 Buying Skills
Table of Contents 1 Introduction…………………………………………………………………………p3 2.1 Rationing and the effect on consumer behaviour…………………………………p3 2.2 The ‘American Look’ and the effect on consumer behaviour…………………….p4 3 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………..p5 Appendix 1…………………………………………………………………………….p6 Bibliography…………………………………………………………………………..p7
1 Introduction World War II was the defining event of the 20th Century and dramatically influenced the way consumers purchased goods. The combined effects of rationing, and the changing nature of gender roles instigated by a crisis of labour had a transformative impact on consumer buying behaviours both in short term impacts and long term implications. 2.1 Rationing and the effect on consumer behaviour In the interwar period, fashion became increasingly luxurious with trends set by social luminaries such as Wallis Simpson and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor (Welters and Lillethun 2011). However this luxurious way of dressing was interrupted by the eventual introduction of rationing on 1 June 1941 with every man, woman and child receiving 66 coupons to last for one year (Howell 2012). These coupons were then cut down to 48 per person in 1942, 36 in 1943 and finally to 24 in 1945 (The Ministry of Information 2010) with rationing not coming to an end until 1954 in the United Kingdom. Consumers could no longer purchase the luxury items to which they had become accustomed, and were forced to make purchases that were thought out and practical ensuring the best value for their coupons. This can be compared to two of Bray’s (2008) consumer behaviour theories; the economic man, and behaviourist approach. The economic man refers to ‘making a decision upon the ability to maximise utility’. Consumers could no longer purchase nor had the need for lavish clothes, therefore their purchases had to be pragmatic and considered. Utility was key for the consumer, the clothing not only had to have multifunctional purpose, but the consumers also had to ensure they had the correct amount of coupons to purchase their item. The behaviourist approach refers to the consumers’ behaviour influenced by external factors. Although consumers may have craved the opulent clothes of the 30s, the influence of the war was strong. Purchasing these luxurious clothes was not only impractical but would have been frowned upon socially as it was seen as taking materials away from the war effort (Appendix 1). These trends became entrenched during the conflict and would dictate consumer behaviour throughout the latter half of the 20th century.
Photo of Clothing Coupon book
2.2 The ‘American Look’ and the effect on consumer behaviour Before 1939 denim and cotton fabrics had been primarily used for farmers and labourers, however fabrics such as silk, wool, and nylon were in high demand for the war efforts and the civilian population had to become more creative with what materials were used for clothing. When the United States had joined the war in 1941 the country was cut off from France and its hegemony in clothing design (Time 1955). This, in combination with the rationing of fabric, meant that American designers were compelled to create new designers as a matter of urgency. The ‘American Look’ was created by Claire McCardell to reflect the societal acute awareness of the evolving roles of the mid-century American woman (Steele 2010). McCardell created sportswear and daywear that was not only appropriate for the workplace, but could easily transition to the cocktail hour. Her innovative and problem solving approach to fashion design created the now ubiquitous jean that every consumer has in their closet to this day. Her actions paved the way for future designers to challenge the norm to create forward thinking fashion for their consumers. The invention of the ‘American Look’ is related to two of Bray’s (2008) consumer behaviour theories; the cognitive approach and the psychodynamic approach. The cognitive approach focuses on the way social and environmental experiences influence the consumers’ process of information. The psychodynamic approach refers to consumer behaviour due to biological drives, instincts and forces. The ‘American Look’ was the invention of a designer filling a gap in the market. McCardell knew that consumers wanted to support the war effort, but not sacrifice their fashion. Consumers always want to have the best of the best, and this line of clothing allowed the consumer to satisfy the need to be fashion forward without seeming unpatriotic. McCardell used humble fabrics such as cotton, calico, jersey and denim (Steele 2010) to create fashion forward clothing. The look was an immediate success, with college girls, working woman, and housewives all wearing her clothing. The ‘American Look’ demonstrations the both the fluid nature of consumer behaviour but also the extent to which this can determine what a designer will create.
3 Conclusion
Photo of The ‘American Look’ by Claire McCardell
The affect World War II had on the fashion industry was profound, with rationing and women entering the work place driving changes in the business. The desire for lavish clothing diminished and the demand for multi-purpose clothing was born. Women joined the workforce and created a need for casual sportswear that could transition from day to night. The fashion industry changed as consumers embraced new textiles and styles that proved to be practical during war times. Today this way of consumer behaviour has endured, with consumers purchasing casual clothing that are multi-functional. It is hard to imagine contemporary fashion without the movement of designer jeans, the Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress which has been reproduced hundreds of times, and the cotton tee that has become a staple of both male and female clothing. The effect of consumer buying behaviour during World War II on the fashion industry has continued, and 70 years later we can still many elements of the “American Look’ in our modern clothing.
Appendix 1
Second World War Poster, Imperial War MuseumBibliography Appendix 1, Photo, http://media.iwm.org.uk/iwm/mediaLib//154/media-154230/large.jpg [Last accessed 15.03.15] Bray, J (2008) Consumer Behaviour Theory: Approaches and Models, p 2-28 Howell, G (2012) Wartime Fashion, London, Bloomsbury, p89 Steele, V (2010) The Berg Companion to Fashion, Oxford, Berg, p 504-505 The Ministry of Information (2010) The Home Front Handbook, London, Anova Books, p47-48 Time (1955) Fashion: The American Look, Times Magazine Online, http://content.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,866314,00.html [Last accessed 09.03.15] Welters, L and Lillethun, A (2011) The Fashion Reader, Second Edition, Oxford, Berg, p91 Photo, Clothing Coupon Book, Bedford Borough Council, http://www.forms.bedford.gov.uk/museumeducation/bedford%20in %20wartime/lesson1/class/lesson1-6makedo.htm [Last accessed 09.03.15] Photo, The ‘American Look’ by Claire McCardell, http://truthplusblog.com/2011/01/14/influential-images-a-precursor-to-pre-fall/ [Last accessed 10.03.15]