Fabric Properties and Performance by Emily Elizabeth Hyde

Fabric Properties and Performance Box I

Emily Hyde P14145599 FBUY 2417 Technical Portfolio

Textiles affect every part of our lives. -Blanton Godfrey

Table of Contents p4 Introduction p4 The Fabric p5-6 The Testing p7 Care Label p7 Conclusion p8 References p10 Appendix 1 p16 Appendix 2 p22 Appendix 3 p28 Appendix 4 p34 Appendix 5 p40 Appendix 6

1.0 Introduction “Textiles affect every part of our lives” – Balton Godfrey. How that textile performs will determine the end-use of a product and whether or not it is fit for purpose. The fashion industry spends millions of pound per year on testing to ensure textiles are up to the standard set by institutions such as British Standards, ASTM International Standards, and ISO International Standards. Some of the reasons that these testing institutes exist, other then ensuring that textiles comply to the end-use specifications, is to study the various affects of treatments on the final fabric (such as colourfastness and washing recovery), to ensure the effectiveness of the process development, and to help investigate cause of failure and customer complaints if the product is unsuitable (Davis 2015). Testing is carried out in controlled conditions for consistency of results(Figure 1.1). The standard atmosphere for testing textiles is 20°C plus or minus 2°C and a humidity of 65% plus or minus 4% (Davis 2015). All accredited laboratories must follow these conditions. There are 7 areas to test these are durability, aesthetics, comfort, care, environmental resistance, safety, and biological resistance. All textiles are tested for the above, however they do not need to pass all, depending on the end-use. Certain end-uses such as infant grows must adhere to strict flammability standards, whereas an adult’s blazer does not. This report will investigate the results of testing on a cotton knitted fabric, and whether or not the end-use chosen is fit for purpose. Figure 1.1 Textile Testing Lab

2.1 The Fabric

The fabric supplied for testing was received and the fabric hand was tested. It was determined that the fabric was a knit, soft, smooth, with a medium fullness that draped well. Immediately the consensus was that this fabric would make a good cardigan or crew-neck jumper. The first few tests were conducted and it was determined that the fibre was cotton and the structure was a 1x1 Rib Knit (Box I). After these initial tests the end-use decided on was a cardigan with a drape front. The end-use of the cardigan over the crew-neck jumper was determined by the drapability of the fabric. This style of the long drape-front cardigan (Figure 1.2) is a staple in many stores year round. Although lightweight cotton fabric is usually used in the spring/summer seasons, this style of cardigan can be used as a layering piece in the winter, especially in countries with milder weather, such as the UK. With the end-use in mind the next step was to undertake the standardised tests to ensuring the fabric was indeed fit for purpose.

Figure 1.2 Drape Front Cardigan from Aritzia

2.2 The Testing To determine the fibre content, 2 tests were carried out; the longitudinal image under a microscope (10x magnification) and the burn test. Under the microscope the fibre resembled ribbon like strands, which is a trait of cellulosic fibres (Appendix 1). However to fully identify the fibre the burn test was carried out, with the fibre burning rapidly and the smell of burnt paper it was determined that the initial finding was correct and that the fibre content was cotton (Appendix 1). In accordance with the Fabric Performance specifications, the tests carried out for knitwear are: •Bursting Strength •Pilling •Stability to Washing •Colour fastness to Washing •Colour fastness to Rubbing Other areas of interest are:

•Resistance to Abrasion •Resistance to Snagging •Drape Coefficient

The Bursting Strength test determines the tensile strength of the fabric. The fabric is placed on an apparatus and clamped onto a diaphragm. Pressure is then applied to the diaphragm until the fabric bursts. The requirements set out by BS, EN, and ISO are 250 kPa with a distention of 30mm (Davis 2015). The results of the test undertaken by the author has a force to burst of 277.5 kPa and a distention of 26.5mm. This fabric was on the borderline of passing the test. A suggestion for creating a stronger fabric could be to introduce another fibre into the fabric. Silk would be an excellent fibre to incorporate into the fabric as it has an exceptional burst strength as seen with the results in Box H (Appendix 3). The Pilling test requirements set out by BS, EN, and ISO require a grade 3-4 to be achieved after 3 hours of testing (Davis 2015). The test undertaken by the author was the pill box method(Figure 1.3). This method uses samples mounted on polyurethane tubes and these are then tumbled around in a cork lined box rotating at 60 revs/minute. The results of the test were both 4 in the courses and wales, meaning the fabric passed this particular test.

Figure 1.3 Pill Box

One of the biggest reasons for returning a product is that is has shrunk in the wash. To avoid this outcome the Stability to Washing test is undertaken. BS, EN, and ISO require the fabric to have shrunk or stretched no more then +/- 5% (Davis 2015). The results undertaken by the author revealed that although the width passed at 4%, the length failed at -16%. A suggestion could be that the fabric be pre-shrunk before being produced into a garment. Another common reason for clothing to be returned is the colour bleeding, whether that be from washing, or just rubbing against a light coloured object such as a couch. The regulation results for Colour Fastness to Washing set out by BS, EN, and ISO are maximum of a shade change of 4 and a maximum stain change on the multi-fibre strip of 4 at a maximum washing temperature of 50°C (Davis 2015).

The results undertaken by the author was washed at a temperature of 40Â°C with a result of shade change of 4. The staining on the multi-fibre strip all passed with a 4/5 with the exception of cotton which has a staining of 2/3 (Figure 1.4). A suggestion could be to wash the fabric at 30Â°C to see if the staining still occurred, or to change the dye from direct to dispersed dye. Although the dispersed dye would not give as intense a colour it is more stable. Figure 1.4 Multi-Fibre Results

Colour Fastness to Rubbing test regulations required by BS, EN, and ISO are very similar to Colour Fastness to Washing with a maximum change of 4 for dry and a maximum change of 3-4 for wet (Davis 2015). The test undertaken by the author used a crockmeter with a piece of dyed fabric and rubbed it against a piece of cotton lawn for 10 seconds. It revealed that the fabric passed with a 5 for dry and a 4/5 for wet (Figure 1.5). This test would have to be undertaken again if the dye was to be changed to dispersed dye.

Figure 1.5 Rubbing Test Results

Resistance to abrasion is similar to pilling which measures the durability of the fabric. The test undertaken by the author used the Martindale abrasion test (Figure 1.6) at 5ooo revs and 20,000 revs. The results were a 3 after 5000 revs, which left some pilling on the surface. However after the 20,000 revs the result was a 4, indicating that the pills would fall off with time. This indicates that the fabric would correct itself after a time in high abrasion areas. Another durability test is the Resistance to Snagging. This test undertaken by the author used the mace method for 600 revs. The results were are 5 in the length and a 4 in the width indicating a very strong resistance to snagging. Figure 1.5 Martindale Abrasion Test

For the aesthetic of the end-use of the fabric, a draped front cardigan, the Drape Coefficient was very important. The test undertaken by the author used the Cusack Drape tester (Figure 1.6) (Davis 2015). A circle from the fabric is cut out and placed in the tester, then the lid is lowered. A light is turned on and a piece of circular paper is placed over the top of the box. The shadow of drape is traced, then the process is repeated on the other side of the fabric. The results are then calculated with the higher percentage fabrics proving stiffer and having less drape, whereas the lower percentage indicates a limper fabric with better drapability. The results of the test were 17%, indicating the initial consensus was correct that the fabric had excellent drape.

Figure 1.6 Cusack Drape Tester

Comparing the Dimensional Stability test results; only one of the three knitted fabrics passed this test. Box K was made of a Thermoplastic Polyester and was the only fabric to pass the Dimensional Stability test. Although Box K also passed the Colour Fastness to Washing, with the changes noted above the fabric from Box I should pass all regulatory test set out by Testing Standard companies. These tests help to determine whether the end-use for the product is fit for purpose, or if an alternative for the product needs to be sourced.

2.3 Care Label Fibre content labelling (Figure 1.7) is compulsory under the ‘Textile Products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations of 1986’ (Taylor 1990). Items that must be included are: Country of Origin, Care Instructions (washing), Fibre content, and in certain countries such as Canada an identifying number (known in Canada as a CA number). For the fabric under consideration the care label would be as follows:

Figure 1.7 Care Label on Clothing

•Made in the UK (assuming it was manufactured in that country) •100% Cotton •Machine Wash 30°C – as the Dimensional Stability and the Colour Fastness tests did not meet the standard of BS, EN, and ISO results at 40°C, even if the fabric was pre-shrunk before being made into a garment and the dye was changed, precautions would have to be made. Washing the garment at 30°C could allow the garment to shrink less and have less colour loss •Lay Flat to Dry – as the fabric did not meet the Dimensional Stability standard of BS, EN, and ISO, putting the garment in the dryer could further mishape the garment •Do Not Tumble Dry – as the fabric did not meet the Dimensional Stability standard of BS, EN, and ISO, putting the garment in the dryer could further mishape the garment •Dry Clean – although more tests would have to be carried out, many cotton cardigans have the option of being dry-cleaned •Iron on Low Temperature – with the Dimensional Stability in question, adding too much heat could damage the garment, so the iron should be kept at a low temperature •Do Not Bleach - the garment should not be bleached as it is colour treated This is the standard care label for the garment as is. If, as discussed, a fibre such as silk was to be added in, the care label would have to be amended.

3.0 Conclusion Over the past few months the fabric that was received in Box I has been tested in many different ways to determine if the original end-use of the cardigan was indeed fit for purpose. The fabric only failed in two of the Fabric Performance specification for knitwear tests to which it was subjected; Dimensional Stability and Colourfastness to Washing. The Dimensional Stability could be fixed by pre-shrinking the fabric before production. As for the Colour Fastness to Washing, the test could be undertaken again with direct dye under stricter testing conditions, as the test done the first time could have had the incorrect heat applied, or as it was dyed with different fabrics could have interfered with the dying process. Alternatively the dye bath could be changed to a dispersed dye. Although direct dye yields a more vibrant colour than dispersed dye, the latter could yield a more stable dye. With these minor changes taken into consideration and with the outstanding results in the other tests such as Resistance to Abrasion, Resistance to Snagging, and Drape Coefficient the cotton 1x1 rib the conclusion from the test is that; yes the fabric is fit for purpose.

Davis A. (2015) Testing and Quality, Blackboard [Last accessed 04.03.16]

References

Davis A. (2015) Fibre and Yarn Identification, Blackboard [Last accessed 04.03.16] Davis A. (2015) , Fabric Identification, Blackboard [Last accessed 04.03.16] Davis A. (2015) , Fabric Identification, Blackboard [Last accessed 04.03.16] Davis A. (2015) Handle and Durability, De Montfort University, p15, p43, p49, p53 Taylor M. (1990) Technology of Textiles Properties, London, Forbes Publication p49, p254-270 Photo of Textile Testing Lab, Pinterest, https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/327566572872771385/ [Last accessed 05.03.16] Photo of Aritzia Sweater, Aritzia, http://aritzia.com/en/product/beekman-sweater/49262.html?dwvar_49262_color=5550 [Last accessed 05.03.16] Photo of Pill Box, Blackboard,[Last accessed 05.03.16] Photo of Multi-Fibre Test, Taken by Author Photo of Rubbing Test, Taken by Author Photo of Martindale Abrasion Test, James Heal, https://www.james-heal.co.uk/en/martindale [Last accessed 05.03.16] Photo of Cusack Drape Tester, Labratory of Clothing Engineering, http://www.fs.uni-mb.si/loifko/Raziskovalna%20opremaa. html [Last accessed 05.03.16] Photo of Care Label, Pinterest, https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/204562008048763049/ [Last accessed 05.03.16] Photo of Fabric on Bolts, Lucy Rose, http://lucylaucht.squarespace.com/imported-20120506203325/tag/outfits?currentPage=14 [Last accessed 27.02.16]

Appendix 1 2015 Fabric Letter : I

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

Page 1 of 6

Names Emily Hyde, Elisabeth Jackson, Natalie Tranter

Fabric Swatch

Fabric description: 1x1 Rib Knit

Determination of Fibre Type Description of microscope longitudinal image

Photograph of microscope longitudinal image

Long ﬂattened ribbon like strands with frequent convolutions that reverse direction (Taylor 1990)

Identiﬁcation of ﬁbre type by Burning Test Approaching Flame

In Flame

Colour of Flame

Shrinks

Catches Alight Yellow

Smoke / colour

Smell

Residue

No Smoke

Burnt Paper

Ash

Additional Comments

Burns rapidly

Conclusion from Microscopy and burning test

Fibre Type: Cotton

2015 Fabric Letter : I

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

Page 2 of 6

Names Emily Hyde, Elisabeth Jackson, Natalie Tranter

Yarn Properties Yarn type and twist Yarn Twist BS EN ISO 2061:2010. Folding Twist tpm Singles Twist tpm

847.2 tpm

Linear Density (Yarn Count) BS EN ISO 2060:1995

14.4 Tex

OR Filament yarn number of filaments

Single

S Twist

Fabric Notation Fabric structure photograph

Courses and Wales /cm Fabric Mass g/m2

Notation

Courses

Wales

70 153.28g

2015 Fabric Letter : I

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

Page 3 of 6

Names Emily Hyde, Elisabeth Jackson, Natalie Tranter

Fabric Durability Resistance to Pilling (ICI Pill Box Method) BS EN ISO 12945:2001 Part 1 (10800 revs)

Grade

Length (Courses)

Width (Wales)

Resistance to Abrasion (Martindale Method) BS EN ISO 12947:1998 Part 2 ( 9kPa ) End Point Comments

5000 revs

20,000 revs 3

Resistance to Snagging (Mace Method) (600 revs )

Grade

Length (Courses)

Width (Wales)

Fabric Strength Burst Strength BS EN ISO 13938;1999 Part 2 ( Pneumatic method ) Force to Burst

Distention

277.5 kPa

26.5mm

Stretch and Recovery Tensile Strength BS EN 14704: 2005 (Fryma method ) Length (Courses)

Width (Wales)

Extension

25%

155%

Residual Extension

1.32

45.13

2015 Fabric Letter : I

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

Page 4 of 6

Names Emily Hyde, Elisabeth Jackson, Natalie Tranter

Fabric Handle Medium Thickness, 0.69 m

Fabric Thickness BS EN ISO 5084 1996

Fabric Hand Assessment

1 Soft

Limp

7 Hard

Thin

Stiff X

Full

Comments

Bending Length BS 3356:1990 Length

Average length in cm Flexural rigidity

Width

Face up

Face down

Face up

Face down

1.36 cm

1.34 cm

0.79 cm

0.89 cm

62.08

Fabric Drape Coefficient BS 5058:1973

38.63

17%

2015 Fabric Letter : I

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

Page 5 of 6

Names Emily Hyde, Elisabeth Jackson, Natalie Tranter

Results of investigation on untreated, dyed and ﬁnished fabrics Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 CO10 Test A - 40°C Colour

Shade Change 4

Test Sample comments

Staining Diacetate Cotton 4/5

2/3

Nylon 4/5

Polyester Acrylic 4/5

Wool

4/5

Wash at 30°C, possibly look into a dye that has better stability

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (crocking) BS EN ISO 105 X12

Samples

Dry

Wet

Colour change

Staining

4/5

Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Laundering BS EN ISO 6330:2001 6A 40°C medium action

Percentage change Comments

Length

Width

-16%

For the end use we have decided on for this fabric, this length stability has failed. Allowance is +/- 5%

Shower Repellency BS EN 24920: 1992 (Spray rating) Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

ISO 1(50)

LJC: ISO 3(80) NFC: ISO 2(70)

2015 Fabric Letter : I

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

Page 6 of 6

Names Emily Hyde, Elisabeth Jackson, Natalie Tranter

Wicking Properties Water height (cm)

Water height (cm)

Length

Width

Unwashed

Washed

Unwashed

Washed

1 minute

N/A

5 minutes

N/A

10 minutes

N/A

20 minutes

N/A

Comparison of Burning Characteristics after FR finish Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Catches alight

Still burns

Shrinks while in the flame

Self-extinguishes

Light grey smoke and ash

No Smoke

Smells like paper Burns Rapidly Water repellence Finished fabric assessment (NFC + LJC)

Water Resistant

Oil repellence Not Water Resistant

Orange Juice repellence Water Resistant

Treated Fabric

Original Fabric

Coffee repellence Water Resistant

Appendix 2 Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 1 of 5

Names_______________________ : _________________________________ : ______________________________

Fabric Swatch

Fabric Description: Wool Woven Plain 2x2 Lightweight

Determination of Fibre Type Description of microscope longitudinal image

Photograph of microscope longitudinal image

Clear Scales continuous Long thin

Identification of fibre type by Burning Test Approaching In Flame Colour of Flame Flame No melt Shrinks

Burns

Smoke / colour

Smell

Residue

Burning hair

Black crumble

Additional Comments

Conclusion from Microscopy and burning test

Fibre Type: Wool

Yarn Properties Yarn type and twist _________________ Yarn Twist BS EN ISO 2061:2010. Folding Twist tpm Singles Twist tpm Linear Density (Yarn Count) BS EN ISO 2060:1995

Warp

Weft

S Twist - 1036 Z Twist - 736.8 Z Twist - 712

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 2 of 5

Names_______________________ : _________________________________ : ______________________________

S Twist – 25.9 Z Twist – 18.42

Tex.

17.8

OR Filament yarn number of filaments Fabric Notation Fabric structure photograph

Notation

Ends and Picks /cm

Warp Ends

Weft Picks

1.9 average

Fabric Mass g/m2

77.8g

Fabric Durability Resistance to Pilling (ICI Pill Box Method) BS EN ISO 12945:2001 Part 1 ( 2 hrs ) Length Grade

Width 4

Resistance to Abrasion (Martindale Method) BS EN ISO 12947:1998 Part 2 ( 9kPa ) End Point

5000 revs

20,000 revs

Comments

5 – no break at 5000

3 – break at 16000

Resistance to Snagging (Mace Method) ( 600 revs )

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 3 of 5

Names_______________________ : _________________________________ : ______________________________

Length Grade

Width

1-2

Fabric Strength Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934;1991 Part 1 ( strip method ) Length

Width

Load at Break N

177.13

151

Extension at break %

10.25

11.38

For comparative purposes also carry out the grab test (time permitting) Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934;1991 Part 2 ( grab method ) Length Load at Break N

Width

250.24

266.77

Fabric Handle Fabric Thickness BS EN ISO 5084 1996 Fabric Hand Assessment Soft Limp Thin

Comments

3 x

Hard Stiff Full

Bending Length BS 3356:1990 Length

Average length in cm

Width

Face up

Face down

Face up

Face down

2.3

2.2

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 4 of 5

Names_______________________ : _________________________________ : ______________________________ 88.60

Flexural rigidity

74.89

Fabric Drape Coefficient BS 5058:1973

25.35%

Results of investigation of untreated, dyed and finished fabrics Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 CO10 Test A - 40Â°C Colour

Shade Change 5

Staining Diacetate Cotton

Nylon

Polyester Acrylic

Wool

1/2

4/5

3/4

Test Sample comments

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (crocking) BS EN ISO 105 X12

Samples

Dry

Wet

Colour change

Staining

Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Laundering BS EN ISO 6330:2001 6A 40Â°C medium action

Percentage change

Comments

Length

Width

Length = 25

Length = 19

Width = 25

Width = 21

Length % change

Width % change

= -31.58%

= -19.05

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 5 of 5

Names_______________________ : _________________________________ : ______________________________

Shower Repellency BS EN 24920: 1992 (Spray rating) Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

LJC â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 NFC - 1

Comparison of Burning Characteristics after FR finish Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Shrinking

No effective difference

Spluttering Light fabric didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pick a significant amount of fire retardant up

Burning Ignited more than 3 secs

Wicking Properties Water height (cm)

Water height (cm)

Length

Width

Unwashed

Washed

Unwashed

Washed

1 minute

5 minutes

10 minutes

20 minutes

Finished fabric assessment Any additional comments

Water repellence repelled

Oil repellence x

coffee repellence repelled

Appendix 3 2015 Fabric Letter H

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification Page 1 of 6

Names Megan Henderson : Hannah Firth : Asma Nawab

Fabric Swatch

Fabric description: Warp Knitted (1x1 Rib) Lightweight Single Yarn (2 Twist)

Determination of Fibre Type Description of microscope longitudinal image

Photograph of microscope longitudinal image

Smooth Fibres Flattened Ribbon

Identification of fibre type by Burning Test Approaching In Flame Colour of Flame Flame

Smoke / colour

Smell

Residue

Chars

White Smoke

Burning Hair

Black and Crispy

Burns Quickly Catches Light

Orange

Additional Comments

Conclusion from Microscopy and burning test

Fibre Type: Silk Fibre (Protein)

2015 Fabric Letter H

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification Page 2 of 6

Names Megan Henderson : Hannah Firth : Asma Nawab

Yarn Properties Yarn type and twist: Single Staple Yarn (2 Twist) Yarn Twist BS EN ISO 2061:2010. Singles Twist tpm

488

Linear Density (Yarn Count) BS EN ISO 2060:1995

34 Tex

Fabric Notation Fabric structure photograph

Courses and Wales /cm Fabric Mass g/m2

Notation

Courses

Wales

11 137.35

2015 Fabric Letter H

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification Page 3 of 6

Names Megan Henderson : Hannah Firth : Asma Nawab

Fabric Durability Resistance to Pilling (ICI Pill Box Method) BS EN ISO 12945:2001 Part 1 (10800 revs)

Grade

Length

Width

3/4

Resistance to Abrasion (Martindale Method) BS EN ISO 12947:1998 Part 2 ( 9kPa ) End Point Pilling Grade

5000 revs

20,000 revs

2/3

Resistance to Snagging (Mace Method) (600 revs )

Grade

Length

Width

2015 Fabric Letter H

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification Page 4 of 6

Names Megan Henderson : Hannah Firth : Asma Nawab

Fabric Strength Burst Strength BS EN ISO 13938;1999 Part 2 ( Pneumatic method ) Force to Burst

Distention

144.6 kPa

26.6 mm

Stretch and Recovery Tensile Strength BS EN 14704: 2005 (Fryma method ) Length

Width

Extension

25%

107%

Residual Extension

1.3

10.5

Fabric Handle Fabric Thickness BS EN ISO 5084 1996

0.68

Fabric Hand Assessment 1

Soft Limp Thin

Comments



 

Hard Stiff Full

Bumpy Surface

Bending Length BS 3356:1990 Length

Average length in cm Flexural rigidity

Width

Face up

Face down

Face up

Face down

1.2

0.925

0.7417

0.7167

16.4746

Fabric Drape Coefficient BS 5058:1973

5.3296

6.3%

2015 Fabric Letter H

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification Page 5 of 6

Names Megan Henderson : Hannah Firth : Asma Nawab

Results of investigation on untreated, dyed and finished fabrics Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 CO10 Test A - 40Â°C Colour

Shade Change 2/3

Staining Diacetate Cotton 3/4

Nylon 1

Polyester Acrylic 3/4

Wool

Test Sample comments

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (crocking) BS EN ISO 105 X12

Samples

Colour change Staining

Dry

Wet

4/5

Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Laundering BS EN ISO 6330:2001 6A 40Â°C medium action

Percentage change

Length

Width

-17.8%

+2%

Shower Repellency BS EN 24920: 1992 (Spray rating) Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

ISO 4/3 (90/80)

NFC ISO 5/4 (100/90) LJS ISO 5/4 (100/90)

2015 Fabric Letter H

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification Page 6 of 6

Names Megan Henderson : Hannah Firth : Asma Nawab

Comparison of Burning Characteristics after FR finish Original Fabric       

Chars Burnt Quickly Catches Light Orange Flame White Smoke Smells like burning hair Black and Crispy Residue

Finished Fabric    

Burns slightly less quickly Still burns and catches light White Smoke Still smells like burning hair

Wicking Properties Water height (cm)

Water height (cm)

Length

Width

Washed

1 minute

5 minutes

10 minutes

20 minutes

0.3

0.2

Finished fabric assessment Any additional comments

Water repellence 2/2 Water repellent on all fabric swatches including untreated fabric

Oil repellence 1/2 Oil penetrated through some treated fabric

Appendix 4 Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter: J

Page 1 of 6

Names: Charlotte Purnell : Indea Bateman : Shamel Samuels

Fabric Swatch

Fabric Description: Woven â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Plain Weave

Determination of Fibre Type Description of microscope longitudinal image

Photograph of microscope longitudinal image

Clear Plastic Tube Shape

Identification of fibre type by Burning Test Approaching In Flame Colour of Flame Flame Fabric starts to burn and shrink

Fabric continues to shrink and burn

Yellow

Smoke / colour

Smell

Residue

Grey

Smell of burning paper

Minimal feather like residue, crumbly

Additional Comments Crumbly residue, burnt quickly.

Conclusion from Microscopy and burning test

Fibre Type

Viscose

Yarn Properties Yarn type and twist : Z-twist Yarn Twist BS EN ISO 2061:2010.

Warp

Weft

Folding Twist tpm

n/a

Singles Twist tpm

15.2

12.7

608 tpm

508 tpm

Linear Density (Yarn Count) BS EN ISO 2060:1995 Tex. OR

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter: J

Page 2 of 6

Names: Charlotte Purnell : Indea Bateman : Shamel Samuels

Filament yarn number of filaments Fabric Notation Fabric structure photograph

Notation

Ends and Picks /cm Fabric Mass g/m2

Warp Ends

Weft Picks

114.966 There is a variation in the weight of the fabric so we tested 5 pieces to get more of an actuate result

Fabric Durability Resistance to Pilling (ICI Pill Box Method) BS EN ISO 12945:2001 Part 1 ( 2 hrs ) Length Grade

Width 4

Resistance to Abrasion (Martindale Method) BS EN ISO 12947:1998 Part 2 ( 9kPa ) End Point

5000 revs

20,000 revs

Comments

4-5 pilling no break down

4-5 pilling no breakdown

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter: J

Page 3 of 6

Names: Charlotte Purnell : Indea Bateman : Shamel Samuels

Resistance to Snagging (Mace Method) ( 600 revs ) Length Grade

Width

3-4

Fabric Strength Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934;1991 Part 1 ( strip method ) Length

Width

Load at Break N

390.40

206.71

Extension at break %

13.14

23.15

For comparative purposes also carry out the grab test (time permitting) Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934;1991 Part 2 ( grab method ) Length Load at Break N

Width

29.75

91.82

Fabric Handle Fabric Thickness BS EN ISO 5084 1996

0.283

Fabric Hand Assessment Soft Limp Thin

X X

Hard Stiff Full

X Comments The stiffness of the fabric we found to be quiet flimsy but does have a bit of structure, We found that we could feel the woven threads on the texture and that we was able to see through the fabric vaguely.

2015 Fabric Letter: J

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Page 4 of 6

Names: Charlotte Purnell : Indea Bateman : Shamel Samuels

Bending Length BS 3356:1990 Length

Average length in cm

Width

Face up

Face down

Face up

Face down

1.56

1.36

1.25

Flexural rigidity

Fabric Drape Coefficient BS 5058:1973

19.0085%

Results of investigation of untreated, dyed and finished fabrics Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 CO10 Test A - 40Â°C Colour

Shade Change 3/4

Staining Diacetate Cotton

Nylon

Polyester Acrylic

Wool

4/5

Test Sample comments

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (crocking) BS EN ISO 105 X12

Samples

Dry

Wet

Colour change

4/5

Staining

2015 Fabric Letter: J

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Page 5 of 6

Names: Charlotte Purnell : Indea Bateman : Shamel Samuels

Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Laundering BS EN ISO 6330:2001 6A 40Â°C medium action Length

Width

-14.8%

-8%

Original length was 25 cm, all new lengthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s measured 21.3 cm.

Original length 25 cm, all new lengths measured 23 cm.

Percentage change Comments

Shower Repellency BS EN 24920: 1992 (Spray rating) Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

IOS 1 (50)

IOS 3 (80)

Wicking Properties Water height (cm)

Water height (cm)

Length

Width

Unwashed

Washed

Unwashed

Washed

1 minute

N/A

0.2 CM

N/A

5 minutes

N/A

0.4 CM

N/A

0.5 CM

10 minutes

N/A

0.7 CM

N/A

0.6 CM

20 minutes

N/A

1.5 CM

N/A

1.4 CM

2015 Fabric Letter: J

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Page 6 of 6

Names: Charlotte Purnell : Indea Bateman : Shamel Samuels

Entry Fabric

LJC

NFC

Any additional comments

Water Water proof, no staining. Water rolled off fabric.

Orange Juice Oil Coffee Water proof, Absorbed oil after Water proof, coffee juice rolled a short while. rolled off but left a lot of off fabric, Pale staining. dark staining. little staining. Water proof, no Water proof, Did not absorb Water proof, coffee staining. Water juice rolled oil, oil rolled off rolled off but left a lot of rolled off fabric. off fabric, fabric without dark staining. little staining. staining. Water proof, no Water proof, Absorbed oil after Water proof, coffee staining. Water juice rolled a short while. rolled off but left a lot of rolled off fabric. off fabric, Pale staining. dark staining. little staining. Overall, Entry fabric and NFC are both water resistant but not oil repellent however LJC is both water and oil repellent.

Comparison of Burning Characteristics after FR finish Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Burns quickly and ends up shrinking as it burns and it creates a lot of smoke- which does not give a lot of time to take the garment off

Self-extinguishing and the ends burns- this gives time to take the garment off and save the skin

Appendix 5 Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 1 of 6

Name: Dixita Pancholi

Fabric Swatch

Fabric description: Weft Knitted

Determination of Fibre Type Description of microscope longitudinal image

Photograph of microscope longitudinal image

The longitudinal appearance of the fibre is very regular and featureless because of the near circular cross-section. The magnified appearance is similar to a glass rod. It has a uniform diameter.

Identification of fibre type by Burning Test Approaching In Flame Colour of Flame Flame Retracts from flame and melts

Yellow, smoky flame

Yellow

Smoke / colour

Smell

Residue

Black

Aromatic/ Fruity

Hard black bead residue

Additional Comments

Conclusion from Microscopy and burning test

Fibre Type: Thermoplastic Polyester

Yarn Properties Yarn type and twist: Spun / Singles / Z Twist Yarn Twist BS EN ISO 2061:2010. Folding Twist tpm Singles Twist tpm

480 tpm

Linear Density (Yarn Count) BS EN ISO

Tex: 21.06

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 2 of 6

Name: Dixita Pancholi

2060:1995 OR Filament yarn number of filaments Fabric Notation Fabric structure photograph

Notation: 1x1 Rib Knit

Courses and Wales /cm

Courses

Wales

22.3

Fabric Mass g/m2

187.22 gsm

Fabric Durability Resistance to Pilling (ICI Pill Box Method) BS EN ISO 12945:2001 Part 1 (10800 revs) Length Grade

3/4

Width 3/4

Resistance to Abrasion (Martindale Method) BS EN ISO 12947:1998 Part 2 ( 9kPa ) End Point

5000 revs: 4

20,000 revs: 3

Comments

No breakdown

Resistance to Snagging (Mace Method) (600 revs ) Length

Width

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________ Name: Dixita Pancholi

Grade

3-4

Page 3 of 6

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 4 of 6

Name: Dixita Pancholi

Fabric Strength Burst Strength BS EN ISO 13938;1999 Part 2 ( Pneumatic method ) Force to Burst

Distention

412.8 kPa

41.8 mm

Stretch and Recovery Tensile Strength BS EN 14704: 2005 (Fryma method ) Length

Width

Extension

20%

71%

Residual Extension

0cm

1.31cm

Fabric Handle Fabric Thickness BS EN ISO 5084 1996 Fabric Hand Assessment 1

Soft Limp Thin

Comments

/ /

Hard Stiff Full

Bending Length BS 3356:1990 Length

Average length in cm Flexural rigidity

Width

Face up

Face down

Face up

Face down

0.933cm

0.633cm

0.6cm

15.202

Fabric Drape Coefficient BS 5058:1973

4.362

11.31% / 36cm

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 5 of 6

Name: Dixita Pancholi

Results of investigation on untreated, dyed and finished fabrics Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 CO10 Test A - 40Â°C Colour

Shade Change 4/5

Staining Diacetate Cotton

Nylon

Polyester Acrylic

Wool

4/5

Test Sample comments

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (crocking) BS EN ISO 105 X12

Samples

Dry

Wet

Colour change

Staining

4/5

Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Laundering BS EN ISO 6330:2001 6A 40Â°C medium action Length Percentage change Comments

- 1.2%

Width - 3.37%

Wales

Courses

Fabric test report- knitted fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter______________

Page 6 of 6

Name: Dixita Pancholi

Shower Repellency BS EN 24920: 1992 (Spray rating) Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Comparison of Burning Characteristics after FR finish Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Burns very quickly, turns into a black bead, sticky, flame ignites and gets smaller rapidly. Not much of the fabric remains.

Once the fabric is moved from the flame it stops shrinking, Doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ignite a flame and slower shrink rate. More of the fabric remains.

Wicking Properties Water height (cm)

Water height (cm)

Length

Width

Unwashed

Washed

Unwashed

Washed

1 minute

1.6

1.4

5 minutes

10 minutes

20 minutes

9.5

8.5

Finished fabric assessment Any additional comments

Water repellence Water repellent

Oil repellence LJC is oil repellent NFC is not oil repellent

Soil repellence Soil repellent

Stain removable

LJC is stain removable NFC is not stain removable.

Stain removable

Appendix 6 2015 Fabric Letter: L

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Page 1 of 6

Names: Carys Johnson : Robyn Pound-Woods : Ashleigh Peters

Fabric Swatch

Fabric Description: Nylon

Determination of Fibre Type Description of microscope longitudinal image

Photograph of microscope longitudinal image

Plain weave. Regular, rod like appearance, smooth

Identification of fibre type by Burning Test Approaching In Flame Colour of Flame Flame Retracts from flame

Smoke / colour

Melts and drips

Smell

Residue

Celery

Hard bead

Additional Comments Thermoplastic- synthetic

Conclusion from Microscopy and burning test

Fibre Type Nylon

Yarn Properties Yarn type and twist _________________ Yarn Twist BS EN ISO 2061:2010. Folding Twist tpm

Warp

Weft

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter: L

Page 2 of 6

Names: Carys Johnson : Robyn Pound-Woods : Ashleigh Peters

Singles Twist tpm

Linear Density (Yarn Count) BS EN ISO 2060:1995

0.00172

0.00208

Tex.

3.44

4.16

OR Filament yarn number of filaments

Single filament yarn

Fabric Notation Fabric structure photograph

Notation 7 x 6 5 x 4 3 x 2 1 x 1

Ends and Picks /cm

x x x 2

x x x x 3

x x x 4

x x

x 5

Weft Picks

41 30.09

Fabric Durability Resistance to Pilling (ICI Pill Box Method) BS EN ISO 12945:2001 Part 1 ( 2 hrs ) Length 5

Warp Ends Fabric Mass g/m2

Grade

Width 5

Resistance to Abrasion (Martindale Method) BS EN ISO 12947:1998 Part 2 ( 9kPa ) End Point

5000 revs

20,000 revs

Comments

x x x x 7

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

2015 Fabric Letter: L

Page 3 of 6

Names: Carys Johnson : Robyn Pound-Woods : Ashleigh Peters

Resistance to Snagging (Mace Method) ( 600 revs ) Length Grade

Width

Fabric Strength Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934;1991 Part 1 ( strip method ) Length

Width

Load at Break N

295.74

219.82

Extension at break %

29.08

33.52

For comparative purposes also carry out the grab test (time permitting) Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934;1991 Part 2 ( grab method ) Length Load at Break N

Width

319 .73

155.14

Fabric Handle Fabric Thickness BS EN ISO 5084 1996 Fabric Hand Assessment Soft Limp Thin

Comments Thin, Scratchy, Could be irritable to sensitive skin

1 x

x x

Bending Length BS 3356:1990 Length

Width

Hard Stiff Full

2015 Fabric Letter: L

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Page 4 of 6

Names: Carys Johnson : Robyn Pound-Woods : Ashleigh Peters

Average length in cm

Face up

Face down

Face up

Face down

2.825

3.775

2.683

2.783

108.13

Flexural rigidity

61.22

Fabric Drape Coefficient BS 5058:1973

51.39%

Results of investigation of untreated, dyed and finished fabrics Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105 CO10 Test A - 40Â°C Colour

Shade Change 4/5

Staining Diacetate Cotton

Nylon

Polyester Acrylic

Wool

Test Sample comments

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (crocking) BS EN ISO 105 X12

Samples

Dry

Wet

Colour change

Staining

4/5

Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Laundering BS EN ISO 6330:2001 6A 40Â°C medium action

Percentage change Comments

Length

Width

2015 Fabric Letter: L

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Page 5 of 6

Names: Carys Johnson : Robyn Pound-Woods : Ashleigh Peters

Shower Repellency BS EN 24920: 1992 (Spray rating) Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Comparison of Burning Characteristics after FR finish Original Fabric

Finished Fabric

Retracts from the flame

Not much difference to original,

Would stick to skin easily if burnt

Retracts from the flame quickly, The fabric would need a different finish for fire proofing.

Wicking Properties Water height (cm)

Water height (cm)

Length

Width

Unwashed

Washed

Unwashed

Washed

1 minute

5 minutes

10 minutes

20 minutes

Finished fabric assessment Any additional comments

Untreated All substances went through (Water, Orange, Coffe Oil) and left stains.

NFC Water and oil went through, Coffee and orange remained as beads and left stains.

LJC All remained as beads and did not go through. No staining occurred.

2015 Fabric Letter: L

Fabric test report- woven fabric specification

Names: Carys Johnson : Robyn Pound-Woods : Ashleigh Peters

Page 6 of 6