Finding an opportunity in every crisis

Words by Rachel Zammit Cutajar | Photography by Julia Boikova

As the largest manufacturing company of men’s quality clothing, Bortex is a prime example of indigenous enterprise that has stood the test of time. The brand has thrived over generations, with Sam Borg, alongside his father Peter, now at the helm of this fine tailoring company, renowned for their product as they are for their drive and direction.

It goes without saying that the fashion industry is highly competitive and particularly volatile. Nonetheless, Bortex has come through multiple generations, and is still hugely successful today. “In this industry, change is the only constant, and we believe there is only one way to ensure our survival; to cling ferociously to our commitment to quality, continue building on a strategy of employing the best people, and keeping them motivated,” Peter said. From shirts and ties to underwear, socks, shoes and tailored suits, aligning their own brand, Gagliardi with top imported brands, the story of Bortex is one of finding opportunity in every crisis.

The new concept store, set to open later in the summer, promises a more experiential encounter, incorporating a number of gentlemen’s essentials. Rather than simply going in to be measured for a suit or buy a tie, shoppers will be able to get their hair styled, beard trimmed and hands manicured. A whiskey bar will offer a selection of fine ambers. A café, wine cellar, perfumery and humidor are some of the other options gentlemen can expect whilst shopping at the new store. “The intention is for the store is for it to be a gentlemen’s destination - a place where men can find everything they need under one roof. It will be a hangout for gentlemen,” Sam said.

Through its collaboration with local producers and innovators of quality, the store is to host a collection of Maltese artisan products. “The idea is to widen the experience and give some space to emerging Maltese brands. We are perhaps one of the longest-standing Maltese brands of quality, and we believe in supporting other local brands who also uphold our philosophy,” Sam said.

Peter talks about the changing times and how the company was not always able to celebrate local talent. “In the past, anything made locally was considered inferior. Today, the attitude towards local products has done a 180 degree turn, and we are proud to be showcasing some of this work. At one point in the company’s history, we decided to turn the Bortex retail proposition into a multi-brand shop, positioning our own brand, Gagliardi, among popular brands the likes of such as Ralph Lauren, Barbour, Hackett, Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, and Ing. Loro Piana, among othersto name but a few,” Peter explained. Today, Bortex is a collection of some of the finest brands in gentlemen’s clothing from around the world. And this is exactly where Gagliardi belongs.

Founder of the company and grandfather to Sam, Salvatore Borg always insisted that out of every crisis comes an opportunity, and this has also been the Bortex route to the success that it enjoys today. After fighting in World War II, Salvatore travelled the world, remembering

fondly his time in Italy, where he acquired the nickname, il gagliardi - translated as reliable and hard working. On his return, he started a clothing company in Malta in the 60s, and his first crisis hit when the government at the time banned importation, losing Salvatore all of his importation licences. But if Salvatore couldn’t import the goods, he was going to make them himself, and this is how Bortex’s core competence in garment manufacturing came to be.

Partnering with Van Gils, which, Peter says, was the Hugo Boss of the day, Bortex grew, and by the 70s, they were manufacturing close to a 1000 suits a day in five locations, employing 800 people. When Van Gils got into hot water in the American market and could no longer offer Bortex the work they needed to fill their factories, Salvatore vowed he would never leave the company in such a vulnerable position – with only one client – ever again. Creating their own design and development teams, as well as sourcing their own fabrics, they became self-sufficient, developing their own retail outlets and partnering with British retail giant Next. By the turn of the century, they had a large and varied portfolio of clients all over Europe. Another crisis turned into an opportunity!

By 2007, they made a move away from automation and back towards the more traditional methods of tailoring, expanding their lines from suits to a wider range of menswear products, including jeans, underwear, socks, shoes and even luggage and leather goods, all under the name of Gagliardi. All this was inspired by Salvatore’s early adventures in the British Merchant Navy and later in Italy.

Gagliardi embodies the timeless appeal of Saville Row, but adds a distinctive Mediterranean flair and a penchant for rich colour. The label combines the quirks of modern fashion: on-trend cuts, seasonal shades and varied textures, with a no-nonsense, old fashioned approach when it comes to quality and craftsmanship and the use of luxurious materials. The result is a rarity in menswear: realistically cut clothes that are shot through with clever little touches usually confined to catwalk collections.

Their retail outlets are heavily influenced by the time Sam’s grandfather spent traveling the globe, Malta and his favourite stomping ground, Italy. “You can see snippets of his time away in various corners of the shop. The yellow trellis wallpaper, traditional family photographs, lithographs and Maltese tile design laying tables, walnut fixtures, the plush sofas and extracts from his library with Roman Emperor busts give you the feeling you’re in the Talented Mr Ripley movie. The style and flair of the Baroque inspired design is what makes shopping at Bortex an experience,” Sam said.

A firm believer that quality was more important than anything else, Salvatore instilled in his son and grandson an attention to quality first and foremost; the rest will follow. Peter explains how they “still follow the same creed today. Quality is not something you achieve once and you have it for life; it is a constant process of vigilance and development.”

“We want every trip to our shop to be a unique and immersive experience, obsessing over the appeal to the sense. So we double the efforts on visual merchandising, and have Salvatore’s scent artfully carried through the store. If you keep the experience fresh, you keep customers coming back,” Sam explained.

The first three decades of the company were led by Salvatore, while his son Peter managed the following 30 years. He will now be passing on the torch to his son Sam, and if history is anything to go by, we can expect fine things from this tailoring enterprise.

bortex.com.mt