Via Ferrata 2012
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Innovation UniquE & Reliable
OneTouch Karabiner: Easy and safe opening of the gate is ensured with pushing the palm latch, preventing pinched fingers in the gate.
Cable Vario: Via ferratas are becoming more and more popular. Including for faÂmilies with children. Via ferrata sets have a shock absorber to prevent falls and minimize the risk of injury. Controlled braking (of the person falling) significantly reduces the fall factor and the resulting impact force on the body and anchor point. The current safety standard (EN 958) on via ferrata sets requires that they must withstand a 5 m fall with a weight of 80 kg and a maximum impact force of 6 kN. The maximum braking distance may not exceed 1.2 m. Research using test dummies has shown that shock absorbers designed in accordance with EN 958 have braking distances of only a few centimetres when used by lighter persons weighing 30 kg (Fig 1). This
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means that these via ferrata sets provide virtually no dynamic shock absorption, and cause substantial impact forces, which could be particularly dangerous for children or lighter users (Fig 2). The EDELRID Cable Vario has a solution to this design problem. The Cable Vario is the first ever via ferrata set with braking resistance that can be adjusted according to the weight of the user. The Cable Vario’s core component is the newly developed and patented Variobrake. It allows braking resistance to be individually adjusted according to the user’s weight, similar to the Z-Value or release setting for ski bindings. The advantage is clear: a via ferrata set that can be adjusted to suit all users. It ensures a braking distance of 1.2 m and minimizes impact force for
Force [kN]
Elastic webbing: Keeps ends as short and compact as possible at all times.
Distance [cm]
Patented Variobrake: The first ever via ferrata set where braking resistance can be adjusted according to user weight.
Fig. 1: Conventional via ferrata set: braking distances with 30 kg, 50 kg and 80 kg.
Accelaration [g]
Distance [cm] Fig. 2: Conventional Via Ferrata Set: Accelaration with 30 kg, 50 kg and 80 kg.
children and lighter users (Fig. 3). Serious injuries caused by non-triggered energy absorbing systems is avoided. With the Cable Vario, EDELRID is once again setting new standards for via ferrata safety. The Cable Vario naturally includes tried and trusted EDELRID technology, such as our patented OneTouch carabiners. Together with the elasticated webbing they ensure good handling when clipping or unclipping. The Cable Vario is a compact via ferrata set with “state of the art” safety features.
Force [kN]
Distance [cm] Fig. 3: EDELRID Cable Vario: braking distances with 30 kg, 50 kg and 80 kg.
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expert tips & Tricks
Via Ferrata Belay Kit “The Via Ferrata Belay Kit is the optimal belay safety set to bring up children or beginners over steep or strenuous sections of a via ferrata.“ Christof Schellhammer, mountain and- ski guide
Unlike sport climbing, a fall on a via ferrata often leads to serious injury. This is why falling during a via ferrata should be avoided at all costs. The via ferrata set only acts as “life insurance”. The German Alpine Club recommends that children and inexperienced persons should be belayed by the leader on vertical and difficult sections (cf. Berg und Steigen 02/11, p.5). This assumes that the lead climber has extensive rope technique expertise and considerable belaying experience. EDELRID developed the Via Ferrata Belay Kit in response to this issue. The Via Ferrata Belay Kit is the optimal belay safety set to bring up children or beginners over steep or strenuous sections of a via ferrata. It consists of a belay plate with automatic self-braking and a 15-m single rope with a sewn termination at both ends It comes in a practical packsack and stows easily into any rucksack.
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How to use the Via Ferrata Belay Kit 1. Preparation: At the start of the roped section, the person to be belayed clips themselves into the sewn rope termination with one of the carabiners of their via ferrata set. The rope end terminations have different colours for an easy overview. The other carabiner remains on the safety cable. The lead climber then connects the green loop of the belay plate (person to be belayed clips into blue rope end termination) or the blue loop of the belay plate (person to be belayed clips into green rope end termination), to their harness and then starts to climb. During climbing the rope runs from out of the packsack, which the lead climber attaches to the harness with a carabiner. 2. Self protection for the lead climber: Once the top of the section is reached, or once the end of the rope is reached, the lead climber sets up his or her own protection. To do this, they connect themselves to a safety cable anchor or ladder rung and then allows the ends to take the strain (Important: both ends must always be clipped). Alternatively a rest sling may be used (if available).
4. Belaying: The person being belayed starts climbing once notified by the lead climber. The lead climber belays them, taking the rope in through the belay plate. The remaining rope is fed back into the packsack. The lead climber should take care to ensure that the belay rope is always kept taut. The belay plate will automatically brake a fall. This means that serious falls and the associated risk of injury are eliminated. Once the person being belayed has reached the lead climber, the process can be repeated as many times as required until the section is completed. Tip: The belay kit should not be used all the time, as it is relatively time-consuming. On popular via ferratas this may cause a queue (and is unlikely to win you any friends). Instead, it’s better to select an appropriate route, so that you only need to use the Via Ferrata Belay Kit on particularly difficult sections.
Setting up the belay: The lead climber now attaches the blue loop of the belay plate (the person to be belayed will be on the blue end of rope) or the green loop of the belay plate (the person to be belayed will be on the green end of rope) into the carabiner at the end of his via ferrata set that is not under tension.
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cable Vario because Weight matters OneTouch Karabiner: Easy and safe opening of the gate is ensured with pushing the palm latch, preventing pinched fingers in the gate.
Elastic webbing: Keeps ends as short and compact as possible at all times. 6
Patented Variobrake: The first ever via ferrata set where braking resistance can be adjusted according to user weight.
Cable Vario: The Cable Vario is the first ever via ferrata set with braking resistance that can be adjusted according to the weight of the user, similar to the Z-Value for ski bindings. The Cable Vario naturally includes tried and trusted EDELRID technology such as OneTouch carabiners and the elasticated webbing.
Via Ferrata Belay Kit: The Via Ferrata Belay Kit is the optimal belay safety set to bring up children or beginners on steep or technical sections of a via ferrata. It consists of a belay plate with automatic selfbraking and a 15 m single rope with sewn termination at both ends.
Cable Vario lay Kit Via Ferrata Be Creed Shield II Mirage 25 B-Lay open e 0,5l Vacuum Bottl Total:
Creed: You no longer have to choose between weight and comfort on alpine routes. Creed is an allround harness with a laminated construction, adjustable leg loops and protector at the tie-in point.
560 g 1000 g 380 g 280 g 920 g 86 g 320 g 3546 g
Shield II: An ultralight and robust “soft shell� helmet. Thanks to its innovative closure system the Shield II fits all sizes and guarantees outstanding safety and comfort. Its large side vents prevent heat build-up and ensure a constant supply of fresh air on long alpine routes. With four robust head torch clips.
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Via ferrata
today`s
s e r u t n e v d A Up on the Jubiläumsgrat On August 17th, 2011, nine motivated mountaineers met up to cross the most spectacular high-alpine arête in the Eastern Alps: the “Jubiläumsgrat”. The approximately 8-km long ridge between the Zugspitze and the Alpspitze provides fantastic views over the Wetterstein Mountains. The trip started in a relaxed manner. The first cable car from Eibsee took us up to 2,963 metres. On the summit of the Zugspitze, we climbed over barrier and made our way to the gold cross, which marks the highest point in Germany. From now on in, concentration is required. The ridge is pretty exposed in places, as we follow it up and down in the direction of the Alpspitze. On the way, there are sections of climbing up to grade III. Upon reaching the new bivouac hut, we stop and have a bite to eat. The weather is particularly fine and everyone is in good shape so there is no thought of leaving the ridge to descend to the Knorr mountain hut.
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Our vanguard party reaches the Alpspitze cable car by 2:45 pm. This means that they can successfully accomplish their mission to go back and collect the two cars parked at the Eibsee cable car station and then drive them round over to the Osterfelderkopf valley station. While this is going on the remaining climbers pose for our photographers. At 16:00, the group gets to the Alpspitze station just in time to make the cable car and narrowly avoid having to walk back down into the valley. By around 6:00 pm, the Zugspitze is behind us as we sit in the car on the way back home. We can feel the effects of the sun and hope to avoid feeling stiff and sore tomorrow. It has to be said that 90% of the team hoped in vain. Nevertheless, it was an unforgettable day in the heart of the Wetterstein Mountains.
Christian Pfanzelt Photography
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Cable Comfort Noblesse oblige
OneTouch Karabiner: Easy and safe opening of the gate is ensured with pushing the palm latch, preventing pinched fingers in the gate.
Elastic webbing: Keeps ends as short and compact as possible at all times.
Integrated Swivel: Solves the problem of twisted ends and kinked ropes.
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Cable Comfort: The classic EDELRID via ferrata set. The Cable Comfort has everything you would expect from a high-end via ferrata set: OneTouch carabiners, elasticated webbing, integrated swivel, compact tape energy absorber.
Jay: The Jay is the real all-arounder in the EDELRID collection. This harness features adjustable leg loops, flexible gear loops, positionable waist padding and Hytrel速-Protector on the tie-in loop, which protects the webbing from abrasion.
Cable Comfor t Jay Zodiac BB Glove clos e Mirage 35 Erste Hilfe Se t Rope Tooth Total:
Zodiac: The Zodiac is a lightweight and extremely stable hybrid helmet with an innovative closure system, large side vents and integrated head torch clips.
Mirage 25: A technical, alpine rucksack with removable back plate and a raft of clever features: detachable lid compartment, integrated packing loop, variable compression system with Clip Fix buckles, ice tool attachment loops.
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460 g 470 g 380 g 75 g 1000 g 100 g 47 g 2532 g
Cable ultralight Less is More
Superlight Karabiner: With auto closing mechanism reduces weight to a minimum.
Brake system: Closed frictionless brake system works even when wet. 12
Cable Ultralight 2.0: Very light and compact Via Ferrata set at just 285 grams this is one of the lightest and safest sets available. The Ultralight is so compact, it will fit easily in a jacket pocket.
B-Lay: Multipurpose gloves for Via Ferrata, belaying, rappelling and big walls. Made of soft calf leather for a good grip. Available with or without fingertips.
Cable Ultraligh Loopo light Shield II B-Lay Helix 25 Bento 70 Total:
Loopo Light: With a weight of only 210 g, the Loopo Light is one of the lightest climbing harnesses on the market. It is perfect however for Via Ferrata, or as a spare harness fitting into almost any pocket. The fully breathable mesh provides unbeatable comfort.
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Helix 25: An ultra-light alpine rucksack for daytrips and fast & light ascents. Removable back plate; air-permeable shoulder straps; detachable waist belt and lid compartment; integrated packing loop and ice tool attachments.
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285 g 210 g 280 g 86 g 780 g 140 g 1781 g
Collection Overview
Christian Pfanzelt Photography
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Set
Weigth [g]
Brake
Carabiner
Sviwel
weight category [Kg]
Image
Overview Via Ferrata Sets
Cable Vario
560
Variobrake
One Touch
---
30 - 80
Cable Comfort 2.0
460
Shock absorber
One Touch
Cable Kit 4.0
415
Shock absorber
One Touch
---
50 - 100
Cable Ultralight 2.0
285
Shock absorber
Superlight
---
50 - 100
Cable Lite 2.0
440
Shock absorber
Triton
---
50 - 100
Brenta Comfort
520
Rope brake
Triton
50 - 100
50 - 100
10 kg 20 kg 30 kg 40 kg
Beginner
Advanced
Advanced
Advanced
Advanced
Weigth
Recommended belay method according to body weight and performance level
KSS + Via Ferrata Belay Kit
+
Cable Vario or Standard KSS + Via Ferrata Belay Kit
Cable Vario
50 kg 60 kg
Standard KSS
70 kg 80 kg 90 kg 100 kg
KSS + Via Ferrata Belay Kit +
110 kg 120 kg
+
130 kg 140 kg
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Cover Image by Christian Pfanzelt Photography
EDELRID I Achener Weg 66 I 88316 Isny im Allgäu, Germany I Tel.+49 (0) 7562 981 - 0 I Fax +49 (0) 7562 981 - 100 mail@edelrid.de I www.edelrid.de
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