ROpes 2012
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EDELRID
bluesign® certified ropes
„Our ropes are eco-friendly“ Respecting the environment Quality and safety are the key to making responsible and innovative high-performance ropes. EDELRID has been following this maxim for the past 149 years. Our ropes and experience in manufacturing them are the heart and soul of our long-established brand. To further extend our quality and safety standards, we have been working with bluesign® technologies ag from Switzerland since 2009. We are the first rope manufacturer to adapt our ropes to meet the tough demands of the bluesign® standard. The bluesign® standard is the most stringent environmental standard for the production of functional textiles. It is independent, internationally recognized and based on the five principles of sustainability. These include resource productivity, emissions protection, safety at work and consumer protection. The bluesign® standard’s goal is to follow these five principles throughout the whole textile manufacturing chain. EDELRID has set new industry benchmarks for innovative and sustainable rope production. All the materials used to make our ropes are bluesign®-approved fabrics. We can therefore guarantee as few pollutants as possible without making any compromises in terms of functionality, quality and design. Our ropes carry the bluesign® product label thanks to their combination of certified source materials and our advanced rope production facilities in Isny, Germany. The bluesign product label is a sign of quality. It guarantees an eco-friendly manufactured product that is low in pollutants and safe for heath and the environment. As such, we have responded to consumers’ natural demands for safe, environmentally friendly and sustainable products.
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Three years of bluesign® allow us to draw on indepth experience of sustainable rope production. By converting all our rope production to the tough demands of the bluesign® standard we were able to make the following efficiencies when dyeing sheath yarns:
For EDELRID this represents a further step towards a sustainable future. We have consistently pursued the task of pushing forward sustainable rope production so that we can continue to inspire trust in the future. We do not consider these measures a virtue, but a natural response to demands of the modern world. As the inventor of the kernmantel rope, we continue to set new standards. We can now confidently say that our ropes are eco-friendly.
• CO2: -62% •Water: -89% •Energy: -63% •Chemicals: -63%
Conventional rope production bluesign® certified EDELRID production
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Innovation UniquE & Reliable Quality and safety are key to creating responsible and innovative high-performance products. EDELRID has been producing innovative ropes “Made in Germany” for 149 years. As the inventor of the kernmantel rope, we have continued to set ever-higher standards. Our in-depth experience of rope production, combined with cutting edge production technology and innovative finishing processes means that our ropes are state of the art.
DuoTec: A new, patented EDELRID process to manufacture bi-color ropes. One of the braiding spools is manufactured to have a contrasting color to create two distinctly different sheath patterns. Each half of the rope length has a different color. The DuoTec process ensures permanent marking in the middle of the rope and a distinctive design. The differently patterned rope halves are easily identifiable – very useful when rappelling, determining how much rope you have left, or butterfly coiling.
Thermo Shield: The Thermo Shield treatment has been in use at EDELRID for more than 20 years. Thermo Shield is a thermal stabilizing process for the rope that gives it the famous EDELRID handling characteristics and feel. The rope undergoes a heat treatment cure to stabilize and harmonize the individual yarns. This treatment cannot be washed out and ensures a supple rope throughout its working life.
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Dry Shield: Dry Shield is a chemical finish for the sheath yarns. The finish is resistant to washing-out, providing a long lasting oleo and hydrophobic coating that keeps water, oily substances and dirt off the fibers. Together with the Thermo Shield treatment, the Dry Shield optimizes handling, abrasion resistance and performance. This all helps to improve the lifespan of the rope.
Pro Shield: With the Pro Shield finish every single core and sheath yarn is covered with a synthetic fluoropolymer coating that is stable and nontoxic. The microscopic (10-9 µ) fluoropolymer particles are bonded to the yarns by an electro-chemical process forming an impermeable protective layer. This both reduces the friction between the individual yarns and increases the sliding properties of these yarns, which substantially improves the rope’s loading properties. This helps the rope to withstand the external forces (falls) exerted upon it during climbing. Additionally, the rope is well protected against moist and dirty conditions.
Sports Braid: EDELRID’s specially developed sheath construction whereby one yarn is crossed by two. The result is a very tight, smooth and flexible sheath structure. This construction method has become synonymous with a particularly high abrasion resistance typical of ropes with this sheath.
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Alpine Sports Climbing less is more
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Smith: The Smith harness combines optimal comfort and minimal weight, and sets new standards for high-end harnesses. Fitted with a Hytrel®-Protector at the tie-in point to increase the lifetime of the harness.
Swift 8,9 mm: A single rope which compiles to the twin and double rope standards. At just 8.9 mm, the Swift is one of the thinnest single ropes on the market.
1x Swift 60 m 1x Rapline 60 m 1x Smith 1x Shield II 1x Thyphoon 1x Helix 25 1x Kilo Jul 1x Strike Sl ider 10x Mission Set 1x Rope Toot h Total:
Shield II: An ultralight and robust “soft shell” helmet. Thanks to its innovative closure system the Shield II fits all sizes and guarantees outstanding safety and comfort. Its large side vents prevent heat build-up and ensure a constant supply of fresh air on long alpine routes. With four robust headlamp clips.
3120 g 1500 g 370 g 280 g 540 g 780 g 80 g 62 g 590 g 47 g 7369 g
Mission Set: Ultralight quickdraw set for alpine climbing. The 60 cm version is ideal for straightening rope lines on tricky alpine routes.
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Lukas Binder Dreams of Youth A route for lemurs It all started with Daniel and Ari Gebels’ expedition in 2005. They came back from the Tsaranoro Massif in the Andringitra National Park, Madagascar with these amazing photos. In 2007, Toni Lamprecht also took great shots of his new routes in this incredible region. Lukas and Wusel were completely fascinated and decided to go climb the Tsaranoro Massif for themselves – at some point. This summer it was time to head for Madagascar. After collecting information from the Gebel brothers and Toni Lamprecht, they flew from Munich to Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar via Dubai and Mauritius. Fellow climbers Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur also joined them for the expedition. Their first sight of the 700-meter cliff glowing red in the setting sun left them speechless. It is a huge face. And has few visible cracks. It’s so perfect; it looks like something straight off a film set. In fact, it’s almost surreal. And then there is the surrounding landscape: the approach involves a one-hour mini jungle trek. And the starry night skies have to be seen to be believed. The sunsets and sunrises are just breathtaking. The bold route that Lukas, Wusel, Philipp and Tobias have spied out for their first ascent turns out to be a Sisyphean project. It’s tough going. They spend eight days up in the wall, set 500 meters of fixed ropes, fit 170 bolts (the third and final replacement bit of their Makita drill broke on the day they planned to summit). Compared to other routes on the massif which generally have small but positive holds (e.g. bomb-proof flakes), their line featured a large
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number of slopers, tiny rounded holds and mini ledges. The lower pitches involve athletic climbing on vertical or overhanging rock. The middle section which is vertical or slightly sloping and very technical poses a real challenge. Even just drilling the bolts is extremely hard work. The upper section involves climbing over small bulges, with extremely bold individual moves. The four final pitches are slightly easier but still very demanding. Anyone wanting to climb this route should be comfortable at sport 10+/11. Despite the fact that any hope of freeing the route was dashed pretty early on, they remain positive. And continue to work well as a team for the duration of the four weeks. Wusel should be singled out for his particular contribution here. Shortly before leaving home he purchased a small pocket music box, was which occasionally known to play folk music, much to the amusement of locals and expedition members alike. This means there is music up in the portaledge and for the daily warm up. And of course, there was the obligatory Bavarian flag-- although it didn’t get to see the summit. In the heat of the moment, it was tragically left behind during the final push. To make up for the disappointment, Tobias suddenly pulled two bars of chocolate from his bag at the top. It had been tough, avoiding the temptation to open them, but somehow he persevered. After all the hard work and rather basic meals, the team was delighted. They were also pleased with their first ascent. Their route “Dreams of Youth” is bound to draw strong climbers to Madagascar looking to make the first free ascent. They have paved the way.
Lukas: We assumed that our route would have difficulties similar to the other routes on the massif. Unfortunately, this turned out not to be the case. Dreams of Youth I 7b/A1, 18 pitches
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Alpine mountaineering light and strong
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Apus 7,8 mm: The Apus complies with both twin and double rope standards, making it the ideal rope weight and comfort on alpine routes.
Creed: You no longer have to choose between weight and comfort on alpine routes. Creed is an allaround harness with a laminated construction, adjustable leg loops and protector at the tie-in point.
5040 g 2x Apus 60m 380 g 1x Creed 380 g 1x Zodiac 920 g 25 1x Mirage Deluxe 85 g ing sl n tio 1x Belay Sta 82 g um 1x HMS Magn 72 g 1x Kiro Ti 72 g g 1x Titan Mu 1220 g 2 x Riot 360 g t 5 x Mission Se 8611 g Total:
Zodiac: The Zodiac is a lightweight and extremely stable hybrid helmet with an innovative closure system, large side vents and integrated headlamp clips.
Mirage 25: A technical, alpine backpack with removable back plate and a raft of clever features: detachable lid compartment, integrated packing loop, variable compression system with Clip Fix buckles, and ice tool attachment loops.
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sports climbing working hero
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Hawk 10,0 mm: Those looking for a rope that can be worked hard make the right decision when choosing the Hawk. Its sport braid sheath construction makes this an ideal choice for all types of sport climbing.
Loopo: An ultralight harness for performance-oriented sport, indoor and competition climbing. The Loopo works without a buckle, helping to reduce the weight to only 265 g. A very high level of comfort is attained through the Triad -System, and the ergonomic design gives maximum sitting comfort.
1x Hawk 60 m 1x Loopo 1x Raven 1x Crag Bag II 1x Jul 1x HMS Strike FG 10 x Pure Dyneem a Set 1x BB Glove 1x Cosmic Twist Total:
Raven: The Raven is our top-class shoe pre-destined for all those who expect the maximum assistance from their climbing footwear. The Raven can be used as a slipper or with hook and loop band thanks to the unique Slide-Rail速 system. Vibram速 XS-Grip sole for the best coefficient of friction.
3720 g 265 g 555 g 1130 g 63 g 70 g 900 g 75 g 109 g 6887 g
Jul: Single rope belay device with a unique twocomponent construction. The body is made of highquality stainless steel, offering the best possible abrasion resistance with minimal heat conduction. The synthetic cover protects your skin from burning after a prolonged belay or rappel session. Suitable for ropes between 8.9 and 10.5 mm.
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Facts about climbing ropes
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Uncoiling a new rope: The future of a rope can be affected from the moment you unpack it. If you just open the package and lay the rope on the ground, you will always have twists and kinks in it. This is because ropes are coiled onto drums during production and delivered in this same coiled condition. It is therefore particularly important that this process is reversed and the rope is uncoiled before use. To do this, carefully remove the securing bands, place both lower arms though the middle of the coil and then pull them apart so that the rope forms a ring. Now unwind the rope slowly and carefully as if you were coiling a spool of yarn (only in the opposite direction) so that the rope falls loosely to the ground. Take care that no loops form around your wrist! Once the whole rope has been unwound, run it through two or three times and shake it out slightly remove any last kinks. When you are finished, coil up the rope, or even better store it in a rope bag. It’s worth carrying out the whole process indoors or using a rope bag, to ensure that it remains free from dirt.
Rope Bag: Rope bags are widely recognized as the best means of transporting and storing ropes. Easy to use, they protect ropes from dirt and moisture and even double as a seat when putting your shoes on. The rope can be attached to one of the rope bag’s integrated tie-in corner loops to prevent the end from running through the belay. The tarp enables perfect rope organization after the lead climber is tied into the free end. At the end of the day, simply tie the free end back to the spare tie-in corner loop, wrap the tarp up and store it in the bag. Rope care: Even if you use a rope bag, ropes can often end up getting dirty. An occasional wash maintains good handling and improves performance. Ropes should be washed with a mild synthetic detergent or rope cleaner from a specialist retailer. the best way to wash rope is in lukewarm water in the bath, but a delicates cycle (30°C/ 85F) in the washing machine is also OK, just don’t use the spin cycle! To dry, spread it out on the ground in a cool, dark place. This is better than hanging it up.
Life span: Ropes deteriorate over time even if they are not used. They should be replaced at least every ten years. A rope that is only used occasionally and stored carefully can provide three to six years of service. Climbers using a rope on a regular basis, which therefore takes lots of falls, should downgrade their rope to just “top rope use” after one year. Although it’s not possible to provide exact values for the usable life of ropes, one thing is widely accepted: the more you use a rope, the less safety reserves it has. Poor handling or a worn sheath will make it clear to the safety-conscious user that it’s time to replace their rope. It is important to replace a rope if it has been subjected to extreme forces or is damaged. For example, following a big fall with a high fall factor, if it has come into contact with aggressive chemicals, if the sheath is worn or damaged to the extent that the inner core is showing, if the sheath has come away from the core or started to bunch up, in the event of serious friction burns or if the rope gets contaminated.
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indoor city survival
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Boa DuoTec 9,8 mm: The Boa is a good introductory rope to the sub 10.0 mm diameter range. Our new DuoTec process provides permanent marking in the middle of the rope and a distinct design.
Blizzard: The Blizzard is the most comfortable climbing shoe we’ve ever made. Its straight cut and asymmetrical form save energy and the reinforced midsole provides increased support for edging or small footholds.
1x Boa 60 m 1x Jay 1x Blizzar d 1x Eddy 1x HMS St rike 1x Caddy 1x Cosmic 10x Pure Set Total:
Caddy: The Caddy is a revolutionary rope bag designed to keep things simple. The rope is housed in a flexible cylinder in the middle of the tarp to prevent knots and tangles. At the end of the day, simply lift the tarp at the corner loops and the rope slides straight back into the cylinder.
3720 g 470 g 500 g 360 g 65 g 790 g 106 g 95 g 6106 g
Jay: The Jay is the real all-arounder in the EDELRID collection. This harness features adjustable leg loops, flexible gear loops, positionable waist padding and HytrelÂŽ-Protector on the tie-in loop, which protects the webbing from abrasion.
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Collection Overview
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Falcon
9,4
60
6
Eagle
9,8
63
10
Apus
7,8
42
8/20
Heron
9,8
62
8
Harrier
10,0
65
9
Kestrel
8,5
48
16
Merlin
8.0
44
13
Hawk
10,0
62
6
Osprey
10,3
68
9
Shikra
8,5
47
8
Viper
9,6
60
5
Boa
9,8
62
6
Python
10,0
64
7
Cobra
10,3
68
8
Tower
10,5
7 69 1
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Linie Pro Line Dry Line Sports Line Entrance Line
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DuoTec
56
Sports Braid
9,2
Pro Shield
Kite
Dry Shield
5
Thermo Shield
Number of falls
52
Rope Type
8,9
Diameter [mm]
Swift
Name
Weight [g/m]
Overview Dynamic Ropes
Entrance Line
Sports Line
Dry Line
Pro Line
Swift
8,9
Kite
9,2
Falcon
9,4
Eagle
9,8
Apus
7,8
Heron
9,6
Harrier
10,0
Kestrel
8,5
Merlin
8,0
Hawk
10,0
Osprey
10,3
Shikra
8,5
Viper
9,6
Boa
9,8
Python
10,0
Cobra
10,3
Tower
10,5,5
Alpine Sports Climbing
Big Wall
Toprope
Project
Indoor
Sports Climbing
Ice/Mixed Climbing
Alpine Climbing
Diameter [mm]
Name
Linie
Range of use Dynamic Ropes
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EDELRID I Achener Weg 66 I 88316 Isny im Allgäu, Germany I Tel.+49 (0) 7562 981 - 0 I Fax +49 (0) 7562 981 - 100 mail@edelrid.de I www.edelrid.de
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