Edible Austin Wellness 2016 by Edible Austin

No. 47 July/August | Wellness 2016

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

The

WELLNESS Issue

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This exhibition is organized by the Blanton Museum of Art. Francisco de Goya, Ligereza y atrevimiento de Juanito Apiñani en la de Madrid [The Agility and Audacity of Juanito Apiñani in [the Ring] at Madrid] (detail), plate 20 from La tauromaquia [Art of Bullfighting], 1815–1816, etching and aquatint, 9 5/8 x 14 in., Yale University Art Gallery, The Arthur Ross Collection

#GoyaMadReason

Blanton Museum of Art / The University of Texas at Austin / MLK at Congress / Austin, TX 78712 / 512.471.7324 / www.blantonmuseum.org

CONTENTS wellness issue 8 notable MENTIONS 12 notable EDIBLES Adelee’s Spicy Bean Dip, University of Texas Farm Stand, Culinary Health Education Forum, Siete Family Foods.

18 farmers DIARY

Tandem Farm.

22 PEOPLE Team Texas Tempeh.

30 edible ENDEAVOR

Jerky: cut and dried.

52 edible ENDEAVOR Dewberry Hills Farm: an improved process.

56 edible BEVERAGES

WELLNESS features 26

Texas sparklers.

57 what we’re DRINKING

32 38

Healing Inﬂammation It all starts with your gut.

61 The Directory

61 ART DE TERROIR

COVER: Eggs from Tandem Farm by Andy Sams (page 18).

Circling the Wagons Lifting up your community in times of need.

High expectations.

The Seer.

Food as Medicine Treating patients beyond the prescription pad.

With eggs.

58 department of ORGANIC YOUTH

Best Laid Plans Eggs, nature’s perfect food.

Self-Care with Essential Oils Discover the healing power of aromatherapy.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

HEAL THYSELF

t is said that happiness is a state of well-being brought on, in part, by feeling that one is a contributing element to a greater whole. The path to finding happiness in this way can be interpreted as

being a participating member in our community and the consequential effect of our human communities on the planet. Or, taking a narrower view, it can be attainable by contributing to the wholeness

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston

that is the microcosm of a healthy body. Understanding what our body (which can often appear mysteri-

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

ous and flawed) needs to be healthy should be as much a personal responsibility as something guided by wise and professional healers. Being mindful about

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

what we eat and taking care of our physical well-being through food is a fundamental step

Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore

along the way. We hope our Wellness issue will help with the journey. In these pages, you’ll discover the growing interest of ‘food as medicine’ manifested in medical schools teaching students how to treat and prevent certain debilitating diseases with healthy eating habits. Culinary Medicine is now offered as part of the curricula at the University of Texas Health Science Centers at San Antonio and Houston, among other Texas medical schools (page 26). And next spring, Austin will be host to a national con-

EVENTS COORDINATOR Susanna Cassady

MARKETING SPECIALISTS Christine Andrews, Brandy Fox, Valerie Kelly

ference on finding intersections between health care and culinary professionals at the first-of-its-kind Culinary Health Education Forum (page 14) produced by the Natural Epicurean Academy of Culinary Arts. Self-care through diet and aromatherapy are also topics we examine, with stories on best approaches for preventing inflammation by healing the gut and how essential oils can play a role in our everyday wellness routines as well as a treatment for what ails us—from bug bites to arthritis (pages 38 and 48). Community outreach and food as a soul-salve are the subjects of our story on helping friends and neighbors in need of support during crisis. We’ll give you tips and recipes (page 32). Since the original writing of our two stories on local farms in this issue—Dewberry Hills Farm and Tandem Farm—both have suffered terrible losses from the devastating spring storms. Yet, both are also realizing the affect of community love through fundraisers centered around food and community. And beyond this, there are fascinating parallels to discover in their stories (pages 18 and 52). We leave you with many food-for-health prescriptions in the form of recipes. There are more recipes per pages in this issue than in any throughout our almost 10 years of publishing! Enjoy, be happy and be well.

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DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Grayson Oheim

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $30 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2016. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 21 11AM-5PM AT FIESTA GARDENS

notable MENTIONS EDIBLE SANTA FE PRESENTS: THE GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER SMACKDOWN Let the Smackdown begin! On Friday, September 9 in Santa Fe, seven of New Mexico’s world-class chefs will compete in the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown presented by Edible Santa Fe. The battling chefs will bring some serious culinary chops to the competition, proving that truly great burgers go beyond American cheese, lettuce and tomato. Find details and tickets at ediblesmackdown.com and get

PROCEEDS BENEFIT

your plane reservations now!

HUNDREDS OF

HOT SAUCES

LIVE MUSIC COLD BEER

GO WEST TO BROWNWOOD OR EAST TO BRENHAM FOR A FUN FOURTH OF JULY ESCAPE Travel east or west of Austin for a fun and festive Fourth of July experience

COOKING DEMOS

this year. Fireworks on the Brazos,

austinchronicle.com/hotsauce

Washington on the Brazos State Historic

located just outside of Brenham at Site is on Monday, July 4, from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Celebrate our nation’s independence where Texas declared her independence! Sponsored by H-E-B, the annual Fourth of July celebration includes a fun-filled day of family activities, with all sites of the park open during the day and a live music concert at 7 p.m. in the park’s amphitheater, followed by a fireworks extravaganza. Visit wheretexasbecametexas.org for more

y a D r o b La d n e k e e W

information. As an alternative, travel west for the second annual RiverFest Barbecue Cook-off to be held on July 3 and 4 at Riverside Park in Brownwood along the scenic Pecan Bayou. Sanctioned by the Lone Star Barbecue Society, the cook-off is part of the RiverFest Fourth of July Bash, which also includes a 100-meter raft race. Visit brownwoodjcs.com/riverfest for more information.

THE HEAT IS ON THIS AUGUST Mark your calendar for the 26th annual Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival— especially if you’re a fan of the heat that Austin food-makers generate at this ever-popular event. The festival will be held at Fiesta Gardens on Sunday, August 21, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and it’s expected to be just as hot in attendees as on the tongue. The event is free

FOOD, FUN & DANCE westfest.com 8

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with the donation of three nonperishable food items or a cash donation to support the Central Texas Food Bank. The deadline to register to participate in the hot sauce contest is Wednesday, August 17. Visit austinchronicle.com/hotsauce for details.

TAKE A TASTING TOUR OF TEXAS The Dripping Springs Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau will present the 9th annual Dripping with Taste Wine & Food Festival on Saturday, September 10. Surrounded by open space, trickling streams and rustic woods, visiting foodies, shoppers and music lovers alike can enjoy a day full of showcases highlighting all of their favorite things: Texas wineries, breweries, distilleries, restaurants, chefs, artisans and musicians. This year’s festival includes more than 75 “tasteful” vendors and an estimated 2,000 food and wine enthusiasts. The festival takes place at the scenic Dripping Springs Ranch Park & Event Center. Visit drippingwithtaste.com for tickets and more information.

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Y Hou d Co l Fir D BIBLE le Foo atura E OR ED svil g N NSstin • heat Livin O SP Au • W io •

n E IBL DFW nto ED BLE an A S I ED IBLE D E

Get the latest news about sustainable farming and local foods while connecting with other people who are passionate about these issues at the 10th annual Farm & Food Leadership Conference on September 25–27 at the Bastrop Convention & Exhibit Center. Presented by Farm & Ranch Freedom Alliance (FARFA) and Council for Healthy Food Systems, this information-packed conference focuses on the policies and regulations affecting our farms and our

10th Annual

FARM & FOOD

food. Whether you are a farmer, consumer, chef, local foods busi-

Leadership Conference

ness owner or nonprofit advocate, you’ll learn useful information

SEPTEMBER 25-27 | BASTROP, TX

and tools to help support the growth of the local and sustainable

Join this energizing gathering of farmers, ranchers, chefs, and local food activists to learn how these issues (AND MANY MORE) impact you ...

food movement. Plus, you’ll enjoy a delicious local lunch each day prepared by Chef Jesse Griffiths of Dai Due. Dr. John Ikerd, author and leading figure in the sustainability revolution, will be the keynote speaker this year. Go to farmandranchfreedom.org for more information and to register.

ENJOY SOME OF THE STATE’S BEST AT WESTFEST

FARM DISASTER PROGRAMS•HOW HONEST ISTHE ‘LOCAL’ LABEL?•GMOs GROWINGTHE LOCAL & SUSTAINABLE MOVEMENTS•FOOD SAFETY LAWS PRESENTED BY: Farm & Ranch Freedom Alliance and Council for Healthy Food Systems farmandranchfreedom.org | healthyfoodsystems.org | 254-697-2661

Despite its size, the town of West sure knows how to host a festival. In fact, Westfest is one of the largest Czechoslovakian heritage festivals in Texas. That’s because the festival offers something for everyone: the Miss Westfest contest; live polka music; a family-friendly carnival filled with rides and games; a Saturday morning parade; tractor pulls; arts and crafts; a Sunday polka mass; and, of course, that scrumptious Czech food we know and love from the Czech Stop on I-35—featuring kolaches, sausages, strudel and sauerkraut. This year’s festival will be held from Friday, September 2 to Sunday, September 4, with activities kicking off at 5:30 p.m. on Friday. Visit westfest.com for all the details.

CRAFT CIDER TA P R O O M N O W O P E N

AUSTIN HOURS AND DETAILS AT:

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@txkeepercider

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Hill Country Crafted

Clockwise from top:

photos by Shannon Vandivier

2015 auction bidders on

CHECK OUT OUR TASTING ROOM AND 13 BEERS ON TAP

The Allan House terrace;

23455 W RR 150, Dripping Springs

Ringmen Tommy Merchant and Jim Bob

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Bigon with auctioneer Walt Roberts; platter of hors d’oeuvres

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SAVE THE DATE FOR THE CHEF AUCTION! The fifth annual Edible Austin Chef Auction fundraiser benefits local food nonprofits Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots and will take place on Thursday, October 6 at The Allan House in downtown Austin. After tasting an array of auction-chef-prepared food and Texas spirits, guests will bid on a variety of unique chef dinner packages—to be announced soon! Check edibleaustin.com for details.

GREEN GATE FARMS’ 10TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY Green Gate Farms’ 10th Anniversary Party is on Saturday, September 24 from 4 to 10 p.m. Help them celebrate 10 years of farming in Austin with a casual, family-friendly party. It’s a potluck, so bring your favorite dish, your guitar, your kids (please no pets), a blanket, plates and cutlery. Activities will include the potluck dinner; live music from local bands; a Barn Hug and drum circle (BYOD—bring your own drum); film screenings in the hayloft; an Austin Playback Theatre Performance; and games and activities for the kids. This event is free, but donations are welcomed and will support continued farm and education efforts. Visit greengatefarms.net for more information.

WELLNESS 2016

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notable EDIBLES BEAN GONE SO LONG

he 1970s brought us bell-bottoms, disco and…bean dip. This less glamorous staple of the era is now relegated mostly to

those unwieldy tin cans that gas stations sell alongside equally dubious nacho cheese pucks. But with Adelee’s Spicy Bean Dip, Angela and Emily Burdge hope to launch a comeback. Using all-natural, fresh pinto beans (never canned) and other preservative-free ingredients, the mother-daughter team and their Ice Box Dips have built a loyal farmers market following, one sample at a time. “At first, when we said ‘bean dip,’ people didn’t know what that was,” says Angela. “But once they taste it, they buy it. It’s kind of wild how much people really like beans.” Having made a name for themselves selling 45 to 50 tubs every Saturday at the Barton Creek Farmers Market, Angela and Emily recently expanded into Thom’s Market. Down the road, they hope to move into other grocery stores, offer more flavors beyond spicy and eventually go completely organic. Angela herself has been a bean-dip fan since the Me Decade, when she found and tweaked a recipe from a Salt Lake City newspaper. Years later, her native-Texan daughter-in-law suggested adding a little spice to the mix (a secret combo featuring jalapeños and green chilies). “Salt Lake food and Texas food are very different,” says Angela. The “Texified” version turned out so well that Angela’s son suggested selling it. Emily soon joined her in their

Be in the heart of Texas!

rented industrial kitchen, Angela’s husband shared some business consultation and—to round out the family affair—her illustrator father drew the penguin for their label. Why a penguin? Angela has a simple explanation: to emphasize the ice in “Ice Box Dips”—and because a penguin beats a cartoon bean wearing a sombrero any day of the week. “People may not remember the name, but they’ll remember the penguin,” says Angela. —Steve Wilson For more information, visit adeleesallnatural.com or call 512-461-6001.

THE

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Live music isn’t the only reason people move to Austin. Austin Independent School District is reinventing public education.

REAL FOOD 101

hort of a botany lesson, what would the typical college student possibly want with leafy green vegetables? Surely, they would

not want these for food—not with so much instant ramen and frozen pizza out there to feast on. And yet, the new University of Texas Farm Stand has nearly sold out of fresh produce each time it’s popped up on the campus mall. Has the Apocalypse really arrived? Are students eating better? “I can’t say for sure if this represents a trend with students’ diets, but it’s good to see them try something new,” says Neil Kaufman, sustainability coordinator for UT’s Division of Housing and Food Service, which, along with a group of environmental science students, created the market. One of those students, Daniela Pachon Florez, a senior, says the stand proves that students don’t eat poorly when given half a chance. “The [food] decisions of students would change if fresh and healthy food was as available as unhealthy options,” she says. “With the stand, we can see how many students are enthusiastic about changing to a more healthy and sustainable diet.” With internal UT grants and money from its own budget, the Housing and Food Service launched the first market in February, following up with others in March and May. Buying wholesale from local farms and producers, such as Animal Farm, G&S Groves, JBG Organic, Good

• 7 high schools ranked best in the nation by U.S. News & World Report • SAT and ACT exam scores that consistently beat the state and national average • Dual language learning options • 242 national-board-certified teachers — more than any other school district in Texas • A focus on sustainability with the Green Tech Academy at Small Middle School • Partners for Education, Agriculture, and Sustainability (PEAS) and the MicroSociety program at Cunningham Elementary • The Butterfly Garden at Brooke Elementary • Healthy extras like the made-to-order salad bar and local farm partnerships offered by Metz Elementary

Flow Honey, New World Bakery and two of UT’s own micro farms, the market sells produce to students below the retail price. The profits cover the salaries of the student market workers and other expenses. UT’s Housing and Food Service has plans for more markets in the future. With its target audience in mind, the division has strived

Take a closer look at an AISD school in your neighborhood.

to make the proceedings hangover-proof by holding it on weekdays

It’s enrollment time!

around lunchtime instead of late-rising weekend mornings. There

austinisd.org

are also fun extras, such as face painting and yoga, for people who aren’t necessarily there for the broccoli. The market further encourages healthy eating with recipe cards to take the fear factor away from kohlrabi and the like. “We’re trying to show that these sustainable local foods aren’t scary, but delicious,” says Kaufman. For some students, it’s scary enough not finding any familiar standbys like bananas in the seasonal mix. Yet Kaufman says they’ve learned to roll with it. “Swiss chard and leeks have sold out,” he says. “We’ve seen students head off to class with a head of cabbage. Whether they snack on it there or cook it later I don’t know, but it’s great to see.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit facebook.com/farmstandut EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

WELLNESS 2016

IS THERE A DOCTOR IN THE FRIDGE?

verybody knows there’s a link between food and health, and yet the culinary and health care worlds aren’t traditionally orbit-

ing in the same galaxy. The Culinary Health Education Forum (CHEF) aims to help these worlds collide. Austin’s Natural Epicurean Academy of Culinary Arts has created the three day conference on March 31 through April 2, 2017, as a way to get professionals on both sides of the fence talking. “Food and health are inextricably connected,” says Stephanie Crain, Natural Epicurean’s chief marketing officer. “The idea is to create a forum that lets these two environments align.” While physicians realize that a better diet can do wonders for a patient’s well-being, they generally don’t have much nutritional training or encouragement from insurance companies. “The insurance industry isn’t designed to support that type of care,” says Crain. “Physicians can’t get reimbursed for helping patients change and manage their diets to avoid diabetes, but they can be reimbursed for giving them a pill.” Open to the public but aimed especially at medical practitioners, CHEF will pull together keynotes, workshops and interactive sessions exploring food as medicine and the ways managed care can transition to active wellness care. The event will revolve around three themes: integrating culinary health into a medical practice; the economics of culinary health; and validating culinary health through research and data. “This is a conversation that’s happening and we want to create an opportunity for people in Texas to become a part of it,” says Crain— noting that she hopes to attract 200 to 400 participants. “All sorts of medical professionals are going to benefit from this topic, because the connection between health and food is something that can’t be denied in society anymore. The more we eat convenient foods, the more inconvenient our health care becomes.” And since Natural Epicurean is in charge of the conference catering, attendees will have a chance to experience firsthand the very health-forward foodstuffs the forum will be evangelizing. The academy even chose to hold the event at Austin’s Jewish Community Center because the kitchen is sizeable enough to handle the vegetarian and vegan fare they’ll be turning out. “People are going to walk away wondering why all conferences don’t have food like this,” boasts Crain. —Steve Wilson For more information, visit naturalepicurean.com or call 512-476-2276.

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sponsored by

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Guide

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SIETE, OCHO, NUEVE, DELISH WINNER

2013 Office of Sustainability, City of Austin Resource Recovery Award Top 50 Restaurants - Austin American-Statesman Top Pizzas in Austin - Thrillist.com

hen Veronica Garza went grainfree to help battle a debilitating

autoimmune disorder, she knew she’d made the right call…except for the tortilla factor. She missed those thin, soft circles of finely ground heaven, and so did her

Austin-style pizza with a thin crust, local veggies, and homemade sauces.

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family, who’d also gone grain-free in support. Veronica couldn’t go back to the problems that grains brought out in her,

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but the alternatives just weren’t cutting it either. “I’d make fajitas with my family on weekends and we’d have to wrap them in lettuce,” she recalls with dismay. Because she couldn’t find tortillas to fit the family’s diet, International University—decided to make her own. With few

www.food.ee 1-844-FOODEE

grain-free cookbooks to consult (this was 2010, before the Paleo epoch), she developed her own recipe with a little bit of almond flour and a lot of trial and error. Her family loved the end result,

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as did her culinary guinea pig friends. Figuring Veronica might be on to something, the family encouraged her to launch Siete Family Foods two years ago. “Siete” (seven, in Spanish) honors the seven members of the Garza family—five of whom play an active role in the company. Veronica serves as president and chief innovation officer, brother Miguel Garza as CEO, dad Roberto Garza as legal counsel and mom Iada Garza as chief of staff (“as she is with the whole family,” notes Veronica). Her other brother, also named Roberto, has the official title of “Swiss Army Knife,” since he does a little of everything, but with a focus on e-commerce. Based in Austin, the family affair has spread its preservative-free tortillas (currently in two flavors: Almond and Cassava & Coconut) into 22 states—mostly through Whole Foods Market distribution. Veronica says that although she’s working on new tortilla flavors as well as other healthy Mexican food offerings and hopes to go 100-percent GMO-free and organic in the future, the goal isn’t just to get bigger. “One of our missions,” she says, “is to bring people—especially families—together around healthy, delicious food,

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because it makes a difference. My family provided a supportive environment for me and my health problems, and we’re trying to replicate that for other households.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit sietefoods.com

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Photography courtesy of Siete Family Foods. Left to right: Rob, Veronica, Linda, Aida, Roberto, Becky and Miguel Garza

Veronica—who holds an MBA and taught at Texas A&M

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farmers DIARY

TANDEM FARM BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S

any of us have seen the films “Food, Inc.” and “Fresh,”

deep within him. When he was 15, Bednar moved to Austin and

read articles by Michael Pollan and Mark Bittman and

attended Austin Community College’s Fire Academy. For years

heard about the practices of Dan Barber and Joel Salatin.

after graduating, however, he struggled to land a job. “I found it

Jordan Bednar is no different, and yet, he is. But why?

was a really difficult profession to get into,” he says. He was close

Bednar has been hugely influenced by the things he’s seen,

once, in 2011—65th in an applicant pool of 5,000. The Austin Fire

read and heard. Not in the ways that many of us are as we adapt

Department was supposed to take 80 applicants, but in the end,

our lives accordingly (composting food scraps, building raised

only took 40. “Had they taken eighty, my life probably would be

beds, avoiding middle aisles in the grocery store), but by taking

very different right now,” Bednar says with a laugh.

the commitment a step further—by abandoning his previous life

For a couple of years afterward, he worked a series of odd

and the goals and dreams tied to it and pursuing different ones,

jobs, but nothing seemed to stick. The one thing constant in his

new ones, under the name Tandem Farm Co. Now, instead of see-

life remained his faith, and it was at church in 2014 that he and

ing, reading and hearing about sustainable farming, he lives it,

Esther met another couple who shared an outgoing passion for

along with his wife, Esther and daughters, Sybil and Hazel, on

livestock farming. After a few dinner conversations, an ambitious

their livestock farm in Driftwood. And he’s still humbly learning

daydream became a reality and the two couples committed to

it, too.

starting a farm. They raised money to buy chickens, turkeys, a

The rural and rustic lifestyle wasn’t completely foreign

flock of sheep, two old cotton trailers and nesting boxes. A lucky

to Bednar, though. “I grew up in Montana, in the middle of no-

encounter led them to acquire 52 acres, rent-free, from a couple

where,” he says. “I remember thinking, even as a young kid, that

that wasn’t using the land and appreciated the kind of farming

farming would be an interesting way of life.” And the imprint

Tandem would practice. By June of that year, a farm was born.

of that childhood exposure to, as he describes, “people doing

“Commonly, you’re a chicken or hog farmer or cattle rancher,”

things by hand or making things from scratch…dealing with life

Bednar says. “But you’re not all of those things.”

on a very basic scale…hunting, fishing, growing food” remained

Yet, at Tandem, he is. And it’s because, Bednar says, it’s good EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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“It’s neat to see the outcome: where the pigs were six months ago becomes green and lush again. You see things come back to life.” for the land. Symbiotic farming replenishes his farm and diffuses bad bacteria and microorganisms. In fact, everything works in

OUR VINES. OUR WINES.

concert for the overall benefit of the land. Bednar loves that his animals—currently 250 laying hens, 1,200 broilers, more than 40 pigs and four sheep—live a life that is more natural to their instincts and behaviors. “Pigs get to roam around and churn soil up with their noses instead of being in a barn in a muddy pit of their own manure; the chickens move in after the grass has been regrown and can run around and peck.” When Bednar gets cattle, they’ll be introduced into the cycle, too. “It’s neat to see the outcome: where the pigs were six months ago becomes green and lush again. You see things come back to life.” It’s not always easy to take what you read and just start doing it, though. Like most things, real learning comes through trial and error. For instance, some of the techniques sustainable food movement guru Joel Salatin uses at his wholistic farm in Virginia don’t work in Texas. “He doesn’t have 100-degree weather and he has an army of interns to do the manual labor,” Bednar says with a laugh. To troubleshoot, Bednar bought two massive hoop houses that can hold up to 600 chickens and be moved throughout the pastures. At first, the houses worked—giving his hens room to roam as well as a much cooler spot in the summer—but the feeling of triumph didn’t last. Bednar didn’t anticipate the severe storms that battered his farm and Central Texas this past March.

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“It wasn’t just the flooding,” he says of the devastating incident.

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“The issue was the winds in excess of fifty to sixty miles per hour.” That March night, the winds tore the hoop houses away, exposing the entire flock to violent weather. “They’re not hardy animals,” Bednar says. Tandem lost 400 chickens that night, and it set them back about five weeks. They’re just now getting back to normal— thanks to the generosity of neighbors, customers and friends. A GoFundMe page was established (gofundme.com/tandemfarmco), and Slow Food Austin held a happy hour fundraiser at Barley Swine in addition to support from Austin Foodshed Investors. “You don’t realize how important the farm is to people until you see something like this happen and their response,” he says. “Sometimes you can feel like, ‘Is this what I need to be doing? Do people care about this kind of food and farming?’ To see the support gives us the answer.” For more information, visit tandemfarmco.com or call 512-517-4003. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

WELLNESS 2016

PEOPLE

TEAM TEXAS TEMPEH BY K AT H L E E N T H O R N B E R RY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A L I SO N N A R RO

“I

became a vegetarian—for

expecting another child in 2005

the first time—when I was

and wisely decided against simul-

still in high school,” admits

taneously starting a small business.

Beth Taylor, slightly abashed. “In

But Becky didn’t give up. Once her

speech class, we were all instruct-

baby brother Chet was old enough,

ed to take a side on an issue, and to

she and her mom found a commer-

use persuasive speech to convince

cial kitchen to rent at the Bastrop

the other students of our position.

Producers Market and, in 2010,

I really had no personal interest in

Texas Tempeh was born.

vegetarianism, but after spending an

Of course, the Taylors’ product

hour in the library getting all my ar-

is never pasteurized; it’s made fresh

guments lined up, I found I had con-

and sold frozen to retain its sweet,

vinced myself,” she says with a laugh.

nutty flavor and pure white color. As

Beth is the mother in the moth-

word has spread, sales have steadi-

er-daughter team that is Texas

ly climbed. Their first big account,

Tempeh, an Austin-based company

like many other Austin food start-

that has the local tempeh market

ups, was Wheatsville Food Co-op,

pretty well sewn up. A soybean product used in Asian cuisines, tem-

followed by Whole Foods Market and Natural Grocers. But most

peh is similar to tofu. But because it’s made from whole, fermented

impressively, it’s our many local chefs who have taken the product

soybeans, it has significantly more protein and fiber, as well as a

to heart. At present, Texas Tempeh is featured in dishes at Bouldin

firmer texture. It also has more flavor; depending on the dish, it can

Creek Café, Cool Beans, Java Noodles, Counter Culture, Wheats-

be reminiscent of sautéed mushrooms or a soft-bodied cheese. For

ville Deli, Mother’s Cafe, The Steeping Room, The Vegan Nom and

many vegetarians and vegans, the food is a godsend: In addition to

eight Freebirds World Burrito locations.

its palatability, it supplies many B vitamins, including B-12, a vitamin hard to reliably source for vegetarian and vegan diets.

These days, it’s all Beth can do to get Texas Tempeh to all of their customers, delivering more than 75 cases a week. While Beth cements

Beth was a long-time practicing vegetarian before she had

relationships with loyal purchasers and forges new alliances, Becky

Becky in 1985. Around Becky’s third birthday, Beth moved a step

takes care of the financial end. “That’s when I broke the news to Mom

further and became a vegan. Her diet already included tempeh,

that I wasn’t going to let her just give our tempeh away. Because, of

but after years of becoming increasingly disenchanted with the

course, she was pricing it too low. I am Queen of the Spreadsheets. I

dark, somewhat bitter commercial tempeh then available, Beth

like numbers. My job is keeping Texas Tempeh on a sound financial

decided to try her hand at making it. “Fresh tempeh isn’t brown

basis.” Becky also orders the soybeans, garbanzo beans and black-

or bitter,” Beth insists. “Pasteurization is what makes it that way.

eyed peas they use to make their three tempeh varieties, as well as

For the longest time, food regulators were very skeptical of fer-

the spices they use in their two vegetarian sausage varieties.

mented foods—particularly unfamiliar foods. In order to sell it here, tempeh makers had to pasteurize it.” “When Mom told me she was making her own tempeh,” Becky chimes in, “I really didn’t care. I didn’t really like tempeh that much.

Poised to take Texas Tempeh from local to regional, both Beth and Becky have had to add marketing to their job descriptions. “We’ve just recently changed our packaging,” says Becky. “And, naturally, we would like to expand.”

But that night, when she showed me this beautiful, white tempeh, and

“But,” Becky interjects with a certain air of seriousness, “I

she sliced it and fried it up in just a little peanut oil—very simple—I

think the secret of our success is, really, that we are mother and

could have eaten the whole batch. It was just insanely good.”

daughter. There is no competition, no conflict of interest—there

Becky tried hard to convince Beth to go public with her fresh, homemade product, but it wasn’t in the cards at the time—Beth was 22

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can’t be. We both want what is best for the other.” Find out more at heartyvegan.com or call 512-629-5708.

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edible Rx

FOOD AS MEDICINE BY K R I ST I W I L L I S

he next time you fill a prescription, your doctor might send

First- and second-year medical students take a minimum of

you to the farmers market or produce aisle rather than the

three classes integrated into their regular curriculum with the

pharmacy. Increasingly, physicians and medical profession-

option to pursue the full culinary medicine elective by adding an

als are practicing a discipline called “culinary medicine” and

additional five courses. Fourth-year medical students can fur-

treating maladies like obesity, heart disease and diabetes through

ther their experience by participating in a monthlong culinary

healthy eating rather than with drugs.

rotation. All students get to put their learning to work by help-

Reaching beyond traditional nutrition programs, the culinary

ing teach and run community classes for kids, families and se-

medicine practice teaches doctors and their patients not only what

niors. “We want our students to talk the talk and walk the walk,”

to eat, but how to prepare it. The Goldring Center for Culinary

says Chef Leah Sarris, program director at Goldring. “We want

Medicine at Tulane University is one of the pioneers in the field—

to see that they know the information, can communicate it to

starting its program in 2012 in partnership with Johnson & Wales

patients and are also changing their own health habits.”

University’s College of Culinary Arts. Each class explores the

Sarris expected resistance in the beginning, but students

effect of different diets on various diseases and how to prepare

have been open to making changes. One student was drinking

flavorful, satisfying meals and snacks.

two liters of Diet Coke every day and completely eschewed her

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“It’s a novel idea, teaching cooking classes to medical students. But it works.”

DON’T JUST COOK,

TRANSFORM YOUR FOOD. YOUR HEALTH. YOUR LIFE.

—Chef Leah Sarris Tulane University’s Goldring Center for Culinary Medicine

soda habit after starting the program. “Students expect tofu and twigs and they are excited when the food tastes good,” says Sarris. “They realize they can make things that are pretty and flavorful with portion sizes that are big. They pass those personal lessons on to their patients. It helps that they have been through the same program.” After teaching for years at Johnson & Wales, Sarris was delighted to learn that medical students are kitchen

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Enthusiasm for the program has caught on quickly, with approximately 15 percent of medical schools now offering the Goldring Culinary Medicine curriculum. Goldring has also released a certification program for practicing medical professionals. Through 12 continuing education modules, current doctors, nurses, pharmacists and dieticians can become certified culinary medicine specialists. “Interest has been higher than we anticipated,” says Sarris. “When schools are sometimes hesitant, if we can get them to visit our program, the perception changes. It’s a novel idea, teaching cooking classes to medical students. But it works.” Despite the warm reception for the culinary medicine programs, barriers exist to wider adoption. Even when a program has a champion willing to change decades-old curricula, a com-

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Worth, the University of Texas Health Science Center at San Antonio, the Children’s Hospital of San Antonio and soon, the Michael & Susan Dell Center for Healthy Living at the University of Texas Health Science Center at Houston. The Houston program, which launches in the 2016 fall semester, is unique in Texas because it includes a teaching garden as well as a train-the-trainer program for dietetic, nursing and medEDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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ical students. In preparing for the launch, the school offered a gardening course this spring as well as a weekly lunch-and-learn program. Dietetic interns harvested produce from the garden, prepared recipes for fellow students and faculty, and discussed sponsored by

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of the dietetic internship program, who also attended culinary school before becoming a registered dietician. “In addition to the core nutritional information, we train the students on how to interview, assess and consult with patients in a simulation lab. We are focused on the behavioral component for our patients, as well as the treatment.” This holistic approach to medicine—treating the patient beyond the prescription pad—promises big changes for doctors and patients alike. As culinary medicine expertise grows, expect to see more cooking classes offered through hospitals, wellness centers and medical schools in the community, and patients trading in pill bottles for vegetable peelers and spatulas. Visit culinarymedicinecertified.com for more information.

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edible ENDEAVOR

CUT AND DRIED BY K AT E W EST • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

t’s a beautiful Sunday morning at

and Drink in American History,” jerky

the Texas Farmers Market at Muel-

didn’t become a commercial and wide-

ler in East Austin, and among the

ly distributed commodity until the

stands of mounded fresh fruits and

early 20th century. It was a quick hit

vegetables on display, a stand called

in stores, though, thanks to the simple

“ATX Homemade Jerky” vies for atten-

packaging and low-fat/high-protein

tion. “The thing that makes us unique

content, but unfortunately, preserva-

is the process, because most beef jerky

tives and chemicals were eventual-

has a hard texture,” says business

ly added to many of the commercial

co-owner Gregg Brown. “Ours is called

brands. Still, the desire for a conve-

‘the tender bite.’”

nient, healthful protein punch has per-

Brown—an entrepreneur who pre-

sisted, and it’s led to this new outcrop

viously owned a catering and barbecue

of entrepreneurs. Brown believes that

business in Kansas City, Missouri—cre-

producing jerky that appeals to a vari-

ated the company last year with his

ety of palates, aligns with many popu-

friend Chris Van Calster. Brown says

lar diets (such as low carb, low fat and

that Van Calster always brought the

Paleo) and is free of additives such as

best beef jerky to football games and

MSG and nitrites is encouraging more

cookouts, and they knew the product

and more people to rediscover this

could be taken to market. The pair

old-school staple.

rented a space inside a commercial

Taylor Collins and wife, Katie Forrest,

kitchen in North Austin and began

were part of that crowd looking for a

producing their all-natural, preserva-

healthful, high-protein option when

tive- and MSG-free jerky made from

their vegan diet began to cause stom-

grassfed Angus beef. They began sell-

ach problems. Inside their Barton

ing the jerky at 12 different farmers markets throughout Central

Hills kitchen in 2013, the duo came up with the idea for the Epic

Texas to an enthusiastic and growing fan base. They’ve since

bar—a unique snack bar that’s a mix of jerky and granola and

added an assortment of jerky flavors, such as Peppered, Sweet

contains 11 grams of protein. “The ingredients are high-quality

’n Spicy and KC BBQ , and now offer bison, turkey and venison

meats—grassfed, pasture-raised, no preservatives—and unique

jerky, as well. “If we can get [a customer] to try a sample, nine

things like currants, walnuts, chia [seeds],” says Collins.

out of ten times they really like it,” says Brown. “We have soc-

In the beginning, Forrest, a Ph.D. student, and Collins, a phys-

cer teams who come by and buy little packages and it’s a great

ical therapist, tested their new product on friends and family.

source of protein before the games.”

They soon found that many were increasingly turning to the

It’s true—one piece of jerky can contain approximately

bars after an intense workout. In an effort to expand their mar-

7 grams of protein on average, making it one of today’s most

ket and get their product into stores, the pair took Epic bars

popular and efficient protein sources for people on the go. Of

to Expo West—the largest natural food-product convention in

course, jerky and jerky-making aren’t new fads—they’ve been

California—and hit the big time. “Within the first four hours of

around for centuries. Native American settlers are credited with

the show, Whole Foods came by and picked it up,” says Collins.

teaching early European settlers how to cut and dry meat in an

The commercial success recently led General Mills to pur-

effort to preserve it. And according to the encyclopedia “Food

chase the company, and the couple has since quit their previ-

WELLNESS 2016

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ous career paths to work in the Epic business full-time. They

people coming back,” says store manager Jacob Spurlock. Since

currently offer bars made from beef, turkey, lamb and bison (in

becoming a franchise, all the Robertson’s Hams meats are now

fact, the company is the largest purchaser of grassfed bison in

processed in Marietta, Oklahoma, before being shipped to five

the United States) as well as other products, such as uncured

store locations across Texas and Oklahoma.

bacon bits, chicken “bites” and all-natural lard, duck fat, tallow

It may seem as though our old friend jerky wears a few new hats these days. But while there’s certainly enough room in the

and bone broths. Of course, this new breed of jerky jockey is just the latest chap-

market for newcomers and reinterpretation, old-guard compa-

ter in an already established culture of natural beef jerky produc-

nies like Whittington’s and Robertson’s Hams aren’t as quick to

tion in Central Texas. Sam Whittington, owner of Whittington’s

use modern buzzwords such as “grassfed,” “pasture-raised” or

Jerky and General Store in Johnson City, for example, hasn’t

“gluten-free” as selling points, even though many of their prod-

changed his product since he and his father “DJ” started making

ucts are indeed produced in this manner. Instead, they continue

it in 1963. “Dad hated his first batch of beef jerky and added salt

to rely on tradition, customer return and proven-though-modest

and pepper and he loved it, and we have kept it that way from

popular flavors like “hickory smoked.” “It’s the original…kind

that day on,” says Sam. Over the years, the family added two

of old-school, traditional beef jerky…kind of dry black pepper,”

additional flavors: Hot and Garlic. “We have a simple seasoning

says Spurlock. “We keep it pretty basic; we don’t try to mix it

that we put on…it’s dry rub, we don’t marinate it and we use an

up. We just keep to what’s good and that seems to be working.”

open flame under the meat that gives it a different flavor.” The family-run business sells about 20,000 pounds of beef jerky every year through a combination of online sales and tourists stopping by the store, and Sam credits their decades-long success

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with always keeping one thing in mind. “If you wouldn’t feed it

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to your mother, don’t try to sell it to someone else.”

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falo and turkey, all of which are smoked for a full day then left to

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dehydrate for several days. “The recipe has never changed since

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edible COMMUNITY

CIRCLING THE WAGONS BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E

oing through major life-disrupting events is, of course, an

Coultas has seen this in action over and over in her years of

unavoidable part of the human condition. Illness, the death

welcoming babies into the world. It’s part of her job description,

of a loved one, a natural disaster, a financial or emotional

and it’s also practically in her DNA. Growing up in a Mormon

crisis—even a joyous occasion like the birth of a baby—can knock

community, she witnessed what she refers to as “The Casserole

our worlds off-kilter and make it difficult to take care of ourselves

Militia” benevolently descend upon families in times of emer-

and those who depend on us. And without the help of traditional

gency and in times of joy. “In Mormon culture, someone’s always

safety nets in our increasingly fractured, isolated and nomadic so-

having a baby,” she says with a laugh. “And for Mormons, food

ciety, fulfilling basic needs in times like these can be a real struggle.

is a precious resource…and sharing it is our responsibility.” But

That’s why creating and contributing to self-made communi-

it isn’t only food that supports those who could use a helping

ties are more important than ever. “When there’s a crisis or up-

hand. When her sister and brother-in-law were in a terrible car

heaval in a family situation, you have to focus on the basics,” says

accident, crates of food were delivered to the family, but folks

Lanell Coultas, childbirth educator and doula. “The person go-

also showed up at the end of each day with a broom and a mop

ing through it can’t because they’re scattered, but the community

to clean the highly trafficked kitchen floor.

can. And every day you have to eat and you have to sleep. So if the

Raini Gomez, birth and postpartum doula, adds that everyone

community can come together and help with those things so the

can bring the skills they have to meet the needs of someone griev-

person doesn’t even have to think about it, it will give them the

ing or mending or recovering or depleted. “Everyone has their spe-

juice and energy to keep doing what needs to be done.”

cialty and the thing they love, and to take that on in service to

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Mix the cayenne chili pepper and salt together on a plate. Cut off the top of the jalapeño, remove the core and seeds. Dip the jalapeño into the cayenne and salt mixture. In a shaker, mix the Tito’s, orange liqueur and lime juice over ice. Strain into the jalapeño. Serve with an ice-cold beer back. Photo ©2016, Elizabeth Bellanti

PTS

“Learning how to ask for what

TEX RATED:

you need is self-care. That’s how you’re going to be the best parent, partner, friend,

GRAPEFRUIT FOR GROWN-UPS

and get through difficulty.” —Raini Gomez someone else is just the best-case scenario for everyone,” she says. Amy Nylund also knows all too well the various ways community can offer support during a crisis. When her house flooded in October 2013, her husband, Rob, was in the hospital recovering from major surgery. Her friends, family and school community swooped in to help. Dozens of people helped clean and pack up Nylund’s house; others delivered meals or gave the family meal delivery certificates, and a friend even played project manager— creating spreadsheets to organize insurance claims. Still others stored the Nylund’s belongings in their garages, took care of their dog and helped them find temporary housing. “And that’s all just the tip of the iceberg,” Nylund recalls. “What all of it really meant, taken all together, was that in our most challenging time,

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or adrift—we were grounded by our people.” There are myriad ways to coordinate all of the manifestations of community assistance—care calendar websites, such as Lotsa Them a Meal and others, are in abundance these days. But before the proliferation of these high-tech, mobile-friendly scheduling tools, a group of Austin women was doing it the “old-fashioned” way—through a Yahoo listserv via the AustinMama website. The AustinMama Red Tent (ART) program (named after the novel, “The Red Tent” by Anita Diamant, which is loosely based on the

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story of Dinah in the Book of Genesis) was started in 2004 as a way to extend a more involved hand in the AustinMama listserv community. “With over two thousand local mamas generating around two hundred messages a day, we heard about a lot of need on the list,” says website and listserv founder, Kim Lane. “Members weren’t necessarily asking for help directly, but through sharing, venting, seeking advice and commiseration, it became clear that there were things many of us could do to help.” While most often we hear about help coming from friends, family, co-workers, members of school and faith-based communities, etc., AustinMama listserv members who sign up to help through ART may have never met the recipient face to face. “It’s been such an inspiration to see members—many who have never seen each other in person—eagerly extending a hand completely

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without judgment,” Lane says. “They show up with full hearts, knowing that we all need help at some point and it’s okay.” A “giver” in Red Tents countless times herself over the years, Lane has also been a receiver—and it had a lasting affect. “When I had my first Red Tent, my husband was in the hospital having

summer

lung surgery. AustinMama members quickly circled the wagons, fed me and my children for a month and had my house professionally cleaned because they knew I was logging many hours at the hospital. One member even made a mix-tape of songs about air, breath and breathing for good luck. The experience was emotionally overwhelming—in the very best way—and changed how I now approach anyone in need.” For Gomez, discovering the existence of the community care concept of the Red Tent was something of a revelation. When she had her first baby, she had no idea she could ask for help, or that she was even worthy of it. “I didn’t have friends with children,” she says. “I didn’t have a connection to a tribe or network. All of my friends were partying and going to shows—that’s what we did! We were music people.” Since then, she has cultivated a large and active tribe and network, and as a doula, she helps create them for others. “Learning how to ask for what you need is selfcare,” Gomez says. “That’s how you’re going to be the best parent, partner, friend, and get through difficulty.” Coultas agrees. “That’s something that I would love to see,” she says, “that everyone feels valued and worthy enough to be fed by their community.”

TIPS FOR DELIVERING MEALS • Designate a gatekeeper to coordinate with those who sign up, and set parameters, such as food preferences and restrictions, preferred times to deliver, etc. • Don’t expect to visit with a new parent or anyone else accepting food. Ask ﬁrst. Maybe they’re up for company and maybe they’re not. In any case, if invited in, don’t linger. (And if visiting a new baby, remember to wash your hands before touching him or her.)

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• If there’s a new baby in the house and the family isn’t up for visitors, suggest placing a sign on the door announcing the baby and stats. In such cases, a cooler left on the porch to leave food in is helpful. • If you’re not into cooking or don’t have the time, you can still contribute. Favor and Instacart gift certificates are useful (and give recipients some choice in what they’re eating), as are deliveries of meals from favorite restaurants. • Think beyond dinner. A quick lunch delivery can help break up the day for a new parent who may be alone with the baby all day. • Offer up breakfast foods such as bars, muffins, granola or yogurt, or anything that can be eaten on the ﬂy and/or one-handed. • Snacks, snacks, snacks. Fresh fruit (or fruit salad in a jar), nuts, hummus, crackers with cheese and cut veggies are all good choices. • Indulgences are usually welcomed. Think ice cream, baked goods and a favorite beer or bottle of wine (this might be especially appreciated by new moms who haven’t indulged in a while).

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KIM’S EASY, CHEESY “IT’S OKAY” PENNE CASSEROLE WITH ARUGULA, LEEK, MUSHROOM AND CRUNCHY BREAD TOPPING Courtesy of Kim Lane Feeds 6–8 “This is a good go-to dish for a busy family,” says Kim Lane. “Whether you deliver it unbaked, or bake it before delivery, it holds up well and is delicious.” Lane adds that if you’re delivering to a new mother, be sure to ask if garlic or leeks are an issue for her—you can easily omit or substitute other vegetables. In addition, a variety of cooked meats can be added for extra protein—add them to the mix just before adding the sauce. For the casserole: 1 lb. package penne 2 T. olive oil 2–3 garlic cloves, minced 1 leek, light-green and white parts only, washed well, sliced 8 oz. mushrooms, sliced 1 bunch arugula, cleaned, chopped ½ c. white wine ¾ c. grated fontina ¾ c. grated Grana Padano ¾ c. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt and pepper, to taste For the topping: 1 T. butter 2 slices crusty bread, crumbed in a food processor ¼ c. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano For the sauce: 3 T. butter 3 T. all-purpose flour 3 c. milk 1 t. salt Pinch nutmeg

WELLNESS 2016

to see members—many who have never seen each other in person—eagerly extending a hand completely without judgment. They show up with full hearts, knowing that we all need help at some point and it’s okay.” —Kim Lane AMY’S “FEEL THE LOVE” CHOCOLATE-DIPPED FRUIT AND NUTS Courtesy of Amy Nylund Makes a platterful

In a large pot, cook the pasta in well-salted water until 2 minutes before al dente. Drain—reserving 1 cup of the cooking water—and set aside. In a pan over medium-high heat, add the oil, garlic, leek and mushrooms and cook until just tender—about 5 minutes. Add the arugula, wine, salt and pepper and cook until the greens slightly wilt. Butter a casserole tin. Toss the penne with the vegetable mix, add the cheeses, mix well, put into the casserole tin and set aside. Make the topping by toasting the breadcrumbs with the butter in a hot skillet until lightly brown and crunchy. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl to cool, then add the cheese to the breadcrumbs and set aside. To make the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned and nutty smelling—about 10 minutes. Add the milk to the butter/flour mixture—whisking constantly to combine. Add the nutmeg and allow the sauce to simmer for 8 minutes. Add some of the reserved pasta water until the sauce resembles a chowder consistency. Remove from the heat and preheat the oven to 350°. Pour the sauce over the pasta/vegetable/cheese mixture, combine with a spoon, cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil, top with the breadcrumb topping and bake for an additional 10 minutes. If you’re delivering the casserole unbaked, place the breadcrumb topping in a plastic bag on the side to be added later. 36

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This artfully prepared yet simple dish is what Amy Nylund brought Lanell Coultas after Coultas’ son Hank was born. And it was one of her favorite food deliveries. “Every time I would open my fridge, I would see that platter, and I would just take one. It was beyond tasty and beautiful. You could taste the love—that each thing had been hand-dipped—and it felt like a hug from Amy every time I grabbed one.” 16 oz. semi-sweet chocolate chips 2 T. non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening Assortment of fresh and dried fruit pieces (such as fresh strawberries, dried mango, dried pineapple, fresh apple slices, fresh grapes, dried apricot, etc.) Assortment of raw or roasted nuts (cashews, almonds, pecans, etc.) Using a double boiler, melt the chocolate chips and shortening, stirring until smooth. Prepare a large platter covered with parchment paper or wax paper. Dip the fruit pieces into the melted chocolate and then lay on the parchment or wax paper. Arrange clumps of nuts on the paper, then spoon the melted chocolate on top of them. When the platter is full, place it in the refrigerator for the chocolate to harden.

RAINI’S “GRAB AND GO” BREAKFAST COOKIES Courtesy of Raini Gomez Adapted from Kumquat Blog Makes about 15 1½ c. gluten-free rolled oats 1 c. coconut flakes, unsweetened 1 T. golden flaxseed meal ½ t. salt ¾ c. coarsely chopped pecans ½ c. dried blueberries 3 very ripe bananas, mashed 1 T. chia seeds 1 t. lemon zest ¼ c. coconut oil, warmed 1 T. agave nectar 1 t. vanilla extract Heat oven to 350°. Combine the oats, coconut, flaxseed meal, salt, pecans and blueberries. Stir in the bananas, chia seeds, lemon zest, coconut oil, agave nectar and vanilla until well combined. Press 2 tablespoons of the mixture into a 2½-inch round cookie cutter onto a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Continue with remaining mixture. Bake for 25 minutes or until fragrant and golden.

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RAINI’S “BEST POSTPARTUM MEAL” GARBANZO, GREEN BEAN, FETA SALAD Courtesy of Raini Gomez Makes 3–4 servings After Raini Gomez’s daughter, Evie, was born, a dear friend brought her this salad, along with a rotisserie chicken from El Pollo Rico. “We called it gas station chicken,” Gomez says. “It was the BEST postpartum meal I had. This salad is a classic and I make it frequently now.”

Shade

¼ c. olive oil 1 t. lemon zest Juice of one lemon Salt and pepper, to taste 1 15-oz. can garbanzo beans 1 lb. haricots verts or green beans, steamed until crisp-tender ¼ c. diced red onion ¼ c. feta cheese, cubed or crumbled 1 cucumber, diced 2 pieces of pita bread, crisped and torn Handful of mint, torn Make a dressing with the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt and pepper, to taste. Whisk until emulsified. Combine all the other ingredients, except for the pita bread and mint, in a bowl. Toss with the dressing, then transfer to large jar or container for delivery. Keep the pita and mint on the side, to be added right before eating.

find it at

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WELLNESS 2016

edible Rx

HEALING

INFLAMMATION BY D R . L AU RY N L A X

nflammation. It’s a buzzword we keep hearing. From seasonal al-

Inflammation is classified as either acute or chronic. Acute in-

lergies to indigestion to autoimmune conditions—even cancer—

flammation is the body’s initial response to harmful input and typ-

inflammation in the body is often blamed as the culprit. But what

ically subsides within minutes or a few days. Think about stubbing

is inflammation, really? And, moreover, where does it come from?

your toe, for instance. You feel pain within seconds, as blood rushes

Inflammation is defined as a localized, physical condition in

to the area and you hop on the opposite foot, gripping your toe in

which part of the body becomes reddened, swollen, hot and often

pain. One or two minutes later, though, your pain has subsided and

painful, especially as a reaction to injury or infection. In layman’s

all is well again. Acute inflammation is a positive force in our bodies.

terms, inflammation is a protective response to an infection or a

Chronic inflammation, however, is characterized as prolonged or

stressor. When our body is threatened by a “trigger,” such as food

ongoing and is harmful to our health. If an inflammatory trigger per-

poisoning, the flu, a twisted ankle, sunburn, stress, exercise, poor

sists, it leads to ongoing destruction and impaired healing of tissue.

sleep or poor nutrition, our body calls upon white blood cells

Unfortunately, this type of inflammation is not always obvious and

(disease-destroying cells) and plasma proteins for the inflamma-

can silently affect every cell in our body until a disease or chronic

tory response. This response eliminates the initial cause of injury

condition has developed.

(bacteria, toxins, stressors), removes harmful cells and tissue, and begins the process of repair and healing. 38

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What causes chronic inflammation? Well, it starts in the gut. Since 80 percent of our body’s health and immunity is housed there,

our gut health is crucial to maintaining a low level of inflammation

to supplementation, which is why third-party testing [double-blind

in the body. When our gut is not healthy (or it is continuously bom-

testing, pharmaceutically tested, ‘standardized extracts,’ certified

barded with stressors), our body has a difficult time eradicating in-

GMP, etc.] really seems to produce the best results both on lab tests

flammation. The foods and lifestyle factors that can cause disorder

and from a patient perspective.” While it’s generally best to consult

in the gut are poor digestive practices (e.g., eating too fast, eating on

with a knowledgeable health care practitioner before taking supple-

the go); dehydration/lack of water; low stomach acid and inability

ments, essential fatty acids (especially Omega-3’s found in krill oil

to fully digest foods; fad diets and disordered eating habits; harsh

and cod liver oil) and probiotics are two that are commonly used

antibiotics and other medications; irritating foods (sugar, processed

and that most people tolerate and benefit from.

foods, refined grains, pasteurized dairy products, meats from facto-

In addition to what we consume, movement and blood flow are

ry-farm animals, farm-raised fish, grains that are not properly soaked

also part of preventing and healing inflammation. Mild aerobic ex-

and vegetable oils such as canola and corn); and environmental

ercise—even simply walking (more frequently) tops the list, along

stressors (chemicals and toxins in our hygiene and cleaning prod-

with plenty of stretching, yoga and other movement disciplines such

ucts, mold, etc.). The best approach for preventing or decreasing

as qi gong and tai chi. And while exercise is good, it’s important to

inflammation in the body is to heal the gut. Even if you have a so-

note that too much of a good thing is not always good. If we overdo

called “iron stomach” or you don’t suffer from frequent constipation

it, we actually perpetuate inflammation, as we can provoke a stress,

or gas, it’s vital to keep the gut flora healthy in order to avoid future

or inflammatory, response to continuous pounding and wear and

breakdowns down the road.

tear on our joints, tissue and cardiovascular system. Instead, move

“The gut is the gateway to inflammation,” says Dr. Amy Myers,

with intention for 40 to 60 minutes most days of the week. Of course,

author of the New York Times best-seller, “The Autoimmune

sleep is important, as well—especially since our body repairs and

Solution,” as well as the soon-to-launch “The Thyroid Connection.”

heals when we are asleep. A few restless nights not only make you

Dr. Myers takes a “4-R” approach to healing the gut. First, re-

feel terrible, but they also exacerbate underlying symptoms of in-

move inflammatory foods (such as sugar, corn, nightshades and

flammation. Aim for at least six to nine hours a night.

caffeine) and infections (caused by parasites, yeast or bacteria);

And then there’s stress. When we’re stressed (physically, emo-

replace what is missing (such as hydrochloric acid, or HCL, to

tionally, mentally), our bodies release a hormone known as cortisol

promote increased stomach acid) and digestive enzymes to break

(the fight-or-flight response hormone). While cortisol is necessary

down food; re-inoculate the gut with strains of good bacteria; and

to fight inflammation and stress (in the short term), the longer it

repair the gut using resources such as L-Glutamine and aloe. “Gut

lingers, the more chronic inflammation accumulates in our system.

cells turn over every twenty-four to forty-eight hours,” says Dr.

Finally, a study by the Environmental Working Group (EWG)

Myers. “The gut is constantly repairing itself, so by supporting it

found that the average person has over 91 toxic chemicals in their

through this approach, you move your healing along.” She also notes

body. Many of these are attributed not only to the foods we eat, but

that healing the gut can take anywhere from three to six months.

to the water we drink, the hygiene products we use on our bodies

A healthy gut also promotes a healthy mind and decreases stress

and the household cleaning supplies we use at home. Environmen-

and anxiety. “As much as ninety-five percent of the neurotransmit-

tal toxins are linked to metabolism dysfunction, oxidative stress,

ters in your body originate in the GI tract,” says functional nutrition-

hormonal imbalances and inflammation. Reduce your exposure to

ist and chiropractor, Dr. Robin Mayfield. “Keeping your digestive

chemicals at home as much as possible by choosing nontoxic house-

tract healthy is job number one for those also experiencing mood

hold cleaning, bath, beauty and hygiene products.

disorders. Depression and anxiety are often a result of inflammation in the intestines from food allergies, candida (yeast) infection, IBS or leaky-gut syndrome.” Experts agree that food is the primary medicine for addressing and reversing inflammation in the gut. Aim for a variety of fresh food choices, raw nuts, organic meats, wild-caught fish and healthy oils such as coconut, avocado and olive, and minimize your consumption of processed foods and fast food. Incorporate probiotics or fermented foods (sauerkraut, kombucha, fermented yogurt) into your diet. And drink half your body weight in ounces of water every day. In addition, Dr. Alejandra Carrasco of Nourish Medicine encourages clients to figure out if they have food sensitivities, which can also cause inflammation. “Eliminating foods that you are reacting to can make a world of difference in your health journey,” she says. Of course, as Dr. Phil Sledz of Fundamental Health Solutions points out, “Diet alone is not enough to sustain a truly healthy metabolism—supplementation is a must. Brand and quality assurance mean everything; not all products are created equally when it comes

COMMON DISEASES ASSOCIATED WITH CHRONIC INFLAMMATION Asthma and allergies Cancer Crohn’s disease Constant fatigue/Adrenal fatigue Frequent breakouts, acne and skin conditions, such as psoriasis Gallbladder attacks Gastrointestinal stress and dysfunction Heart disease Hormonal imbalances Joint pain Low immunity and frequent illness Lupus and other autoimmune conditions Multiple Sclerosis Parkinson’s disease Tendonitis EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

WELLNESS 2016

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY FOODS Berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries) Beets Bone broth

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Broccoli Cherries Cinnamon Coconut oil and olive oil Green leafy vegetables (kale, chard, spinach) Nuts (walnuts, almonds, pine nuts) Raw seeds (chia, flax) Turmeric Wild salmon

CHERRY GREEN SMOOTHIE Makes 1 smoothie 1 c. unsweetened almond milk or coconut milk ¾ c. frozen cherries 2 heaping handfuls greens (such as spinach, kale, chard, collards) 2 t. cinnamon 1 T. MCT oil, coconut oil, ground flaxseed, chia seeds or natural almond butter 1 serving collagen protein, hemp protein or quality whey protein powder (artificial sweetener- and additive-free), optional ½–1 c. ice (more ice = thicker shake) Blend all ingredients. Add water if needed.

GUT-HEALING BONE BROTH AND HEARTY SOUP BASE Makes 1 large pot 2 lb. (or more) bones from organic or pasture-raised chicken or beef 2 T. apple cider vinegar 2 celery stalks, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 1 onion, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste 2 garlic cloves, peeled, minced 1 bunch parsley or other herbs, optional

lunch. dinner. MUSIC. 1305 w. oltorf theabgb.com 40

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If the bones are raw, roast them in a roasting pan for 30 minutes at 350°. Next, place the bones in a large stockpot. Pour cool water over the bones and add the vinegar. Let the bones sit for 20 to 30 minutes in the water. Add the celery, carrots, onion, salt and pepper to the pot and bring to a boil. Once the pot has reached a vigorous boil, reduce the heat and simmer approximately 8 to 10 hours—skimming off any impurities that float to the surface. During the last 30 minutes of simmering, add the garlic and parsley or herbs, if using. Remove from the heat, let cool slightly then strain. When cooled, store in the fridge for up to 5 days or freeze for later use.

HERB-CRUSTED SALMON WITH PAN-FRIED GREENS Serves 2 2 wild-caught salmon fillets 1 T. olive oil 1 T. Dijon mustard 1 T. coconut flour 2 T. chopped fresh parsley 1 T. chopped fresh rosemary 1 T. chopped fresh thyme 1 lb. cleaned and chopped chard, collards, spinach, kale (or a mix) 2 t. coconut oil Sea salt and pepper, to taste Heat the oven to 450°. Place the salmon fillets on a parchment paperor foil-lined baking sheet. Brush or spoon the olive oil and mustard onto the salmon. In a small bowl, mix together the coconut flour, parsley, rosemary, thyme, sea salt and pepper. Sprinkle the herb mix over the salmon and rub in. Place in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until the salmon is cooked to the desired doneness. While the salmon is cooking, heat the coconut oil in a pan over medium heat. Toss in the greens and add a splash of water and salt and pepper, to taste. Cook on medium-low, covered, for about 8 minutes. Serve the greens on the side or under the salmon.

TURMERIC COCONUT CHICKEN CURRY WITH CINNAMON-DUSTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH OR SWEET POTATOES Serves 6 1 large butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed or 3 organic sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped 1 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 T. cinnamon 2 T. ghee or coconut oil 1 yellow onion, chopped ½ T. turmeric ½ T. paprika 1 t. cumin 1 t. red pepper flakes, optional 6 boneless, organic chicken thighs, diced 1 can full-fat coconut milk 2 medium zucchini, sliced 2 c. button mushrooms, sliced Fresh cilantro, coriander seed and coconut cream, for serving Heat the oven to 400°. Spread the squash or sweet potatoes on a baking sheet lined with foil. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle on the cinnamon. Place in the oven and roast for 30 to 40 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the ghee in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onion and spices and cook down. Add the chicken and cook until it is almost done. Reduce the heat to low and add the coconut milk. Stir, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the zucchini and mushrooms, cover the pan and cook for 5 more minutes. Top the cooked squash or potatoes with the curry mixture and serve with a dollop of coconut cream, fresh cilantro or coriander seed.

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COOKING FRESH

BEST LAID PLANS BY W I L L PAC KWO O D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

n his 1974 book “On Food,” celebrated American chef James

protein, fat and water. In recipes, they contribute lift, structure,

Beard wrote, “I have had, in my time, memorable meals of

moisture, richness and color. They give flavor and chewiness to

scrambled eggs with fresh truffles, scrambled eggs with caviar

pasta, cakes, cookies, quiches and more, and they help to create the

and other glamorous things, but to me, there are few things as mag-

crispy, crunchy crust on our favorite fried foods. And even when

nificent as scrambled eggs, pure and simple, perfectly cooked and

whites and yolks are separated, the magic remains. Egg whites,

perfectly seasoned.”

when whipped to various degrees, add lightness to mousses, cakes,

I have to agree—very few ingredients can stand alone as well

soufflés and sauces. They can be slowly simmered in stocks to cap-

as the simple egg, properly cooked, with a conscious amount of

ture impurities, resulting in a crystal-clear liquid that can be used

salt, pepper and the appropriate fat. Yet eggs offer much more than

as consommé or aspic. When yolks are added to dairy and sugar,

simply a divine one-man show.

crème brûlée, crème anglaise, ice cream and a slew of other cus-

Eggs, in their whole form, are an almost perfect mixture of 42

WELLNESS 2016

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tards can be made. And when whipped until light and fluffy over a

Comfort in a bottle

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DAVID WEEKLEY HOMES | DREES CUSTOM HOMES | TRENDMAKER HOMES Materials are protected by copyright, trademark, and other intellectual property laws. All rights in these materials are reserved. All products and company names marked as trademarked (â&#x201E;˘) or registered (ÂŽ) are trademarks of their respective holders. Copying, reproduction and distribution of materials without prior written consent of Freehold Communities is strictly prohibited. All information, plans, and pricing are subject to change without notice. This information does not represent a specific offer of sale or solicitation to purchase property within Headwaters. Models do not reflect racial preference.

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WELLNESS 2016

FRENCH OMELET WITH SMOKED GOUDA AND APPLE COMPOTE Makes 1 omelet For the apple compote: 2 large granny smith apples, peeled, diced 1 T. butter Juice from ½ lemon ¼ c. evaporated sugar cane juice 1 T. Calvados Pinch nutmeg Pinch allspice Pinch salt

double boiler, then emulsified with melted butter, yolks help create the beloved breakfast sauce, Hollandaise. These are only a few examples of how crucial the egg is to recipes and how its many contributions have expanded and evolved our palates. When we talk about eggs, most of us think about chicken eggs purchased at the grocery store. But in many communities these days (Austin included), farm-fresh chicken and duck eggs are readily available directly from the source and at farmers markets. Though I prefer a fresh, locally produced egg, for the sake of convenience, let’s explore eggs from the grocery store and begin with the various information listed on the carton: the grade of the egg, the size, the use-by date, the code representing the processing plant and the Julian calendar date for the day the egg was laid and packed. For the consumer, the Julian date and size of the egg are the two most important identifying markers. The Julian date determines the actual freshness of the egg. Fresh eggs are easier to crack without all the mess and frustration of broken shells falling into your mixture, but most importantly, they also give the most consistent results because the white (albumen) is more intact. The fresher the egg, the more likely the path to the perfect poach or the fluffiest batter. The only exception to this rule is hard-boiled eggs. After years of experience and experimentation in the kitchen, I’ve found that older eggs peel much more easily and cleanly than fresh. And does size really matter? Well, in the case of eggs…yes it does! Many stores stock eggs in medium, large, extra-large and jumbo sizes. However, most recipes and ratios are based on a large egg, which is usually between 1.75 to 2 ounces. Also look for labeling that indicates how the chickens were raised (e.g. “organic,” “pasture raised,” and “vegetarian”) because eggs from chickens raised in a sustainable and humane way will have a higher nutritional value. When storing eggs, remember to use them within a couple of weeks. The shell of the egg is porous and will absorb odors from other foods nearby so store eggs in their carton and away from strong-smelling foods such as cut onions or garlic. If there are leftover egg whites or yolks from a recipe, store them refrigerated in a sealed container. Whites can keep for four to five days but yolks are best if consumed in two to three days. Whether they’re the star of the breakfast plate, the perfect garnish for an already fat-laden cheeseburger or the success secret to many other dishes, eggs are practically indispensable. 44

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For the omelet: 3 large hen eggs 1 T. European butter ¼ c. shredded smoked Gouda 3 T. apple compote Salt and pepper, to taste To make the compote, combine all of the ingredients and bring to a simmer over medium heat in a stainless-steel pot. Allow the compote to cook until the apples are tender. Remove from the heat and keep warm. To make the omelet, heat a well-seasoned 8-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, in a stainless-steel bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly. Season the eggs with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the butter to the sauté pan and allow it to melt. Once the butter has stopped foaming, add the eggs. Using a fork or wooden spoon, stir the eggs while vigorously shaking the pan (as if making scrambled eggs). Using the spoon, pull and hold the cooked eggs to one side of the pan and tilt the pan to allow the uncooked egg to gather on the other side. Flatten the pan and sprinkle the chives and cheese over the unset side of the eggs. Tilt the pan again toward the unset eggs and, using the fork or wooden spoon, start rolling the cooked layer of the eggs toward the pool of unset eggs—stopping once the roll reaches the largest part of the unset eggs. Straighten the pan and fold up the largest part of the unset eggs so that it meets the first roll to form the omelet. Cover the pan with an inverted plate then carefully flip the omelet out onto the plate. Using a paring knife, make a slit lengthwise and fill the omelet with the apple compote and shredded Gouda. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

FRITTATA WITH SWISS CHARD, GOLDEN RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND PANCETTA Serves 3–4

UOVA AL POMODORO Serves 2–4 ½ c. good-quality, extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, peeled, finely minced 2 carrots, peeled, finely diced Salt and pepper, to taste 3 garlic cloves, peeled, minced 1 Fresno or other small chili, seeded, finely diced 2 28-oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes 12–15 fresh basil leaves 3–4 sprigs fresh oregano, leaves only 1–2 anchovy fillets, mashed to a paste 4 large hen eggs ¼ c. Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated 1 baguette or other rustic artisanal-style bread, sliced Place a large pot over medium-high heat and add the oil, onion and carrot. Season with a small amount of salt and pepper and allow the mixture to sweat until translucent. Add the garlic and chili and season with a small amount of salt and pepper. Continue cooking for 3 to 5 minutes. Using your hands, crush the tomatoes and add them to the pot. Add the herbs and anchovies and stir to combine. Adjust the heat to a very low simmer and allow the tomato sauce to simmer for 1½ to 2 hours. Adjust the seasoning, to taste. To prepare the eggs, transfer 4 to 5 cups of the tomato sauce to a large sauté pan and heat to a low simmer. Crack the eggs directly into the simmering tomato sauce and season with salt and pepper. Allow the eggs to poach to desired doneness (3 to 4 minutes for solid white and runny yolks). Serve the eggs and tomato sauce directly from the pan, garnished with a sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano and an optional generous drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with the sliced bread for dipping. Store any unused sauce in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

6 large hen eggs 2 T. butter 2 shallots, peeled, minced 1 bunch Swiss chard, washed, chopped ¼ c. golden raisins, soaked in warm water for 1 hour, then drained 2 T. pine nuts, lightly toasted 2 oz. pancetta, finely diced, rendered Salt and pepper, to taste In a stainless-steel bowl, whisk the eggs until the yolks and whites are thoroughly combined. Heat a well-seasoned medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and shallots to the hot pan and stir to combine. Lightly season the shallots with salt and pepper and continue cooking until the shallots are translucent. Add the chard and stir to coat with the butter, then season lightly. Add the whisked eggs, raisins, pine nuts and pancetta and season lightly with salt and pepper. Using a wooden spoon, stir the eggs while shaking the pan (as if making scrambled eggs). Once the eggs are almost set, stop stirring and smooth out the surface of the frittata. Using an inverted plate, carefully flip the frittata onto a plate or cookie sheet then slide it back into the pan. Continue cooking until set—about 2 to 3 minutes. Slide the frittata out onto a cutting board and cut into wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Eggs, in their whole form, are an almost perfect mixture of protein, fat and water.

POACHED DUCK EGGS WITH BABY MUSTARD GREENS, LARDONS, SOURDOUGH CROUTONS AND SHALLOT-MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE Serves 4 For the vinaigrette: 1 small shallot, peeled, finely minced 1 T. Dijon mustard 2 T. white wine vinegar 4 T. extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste For the salad: 4 very fresh duck eggs 1–2 T. distilled vinegar 1 lb. fresh baby mustard greens, washed, spun dry ¼ lb. slab bacon, cut into bite-size pieces, rendered 1 c. sourdough croutons Salt and pepper, to taste 46

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To make the vinaigrette, whisk together the shallot, mustard, vinegar and oil until emulsified. Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside. To make the salad, bring 3 inches of salted water to a very low simmer—180°—in a medium stainless-steel pan. Crack each duck egg into individual small dishes. Add the distilled vinegar to the simmering water. Gently tilt the eggs out of each dish into the simmering water— keeping the dish as close as possible to the surface of the water. Allow the eggs to poach for 3 to 5 minutes or until desired doneness. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the poaching water and drain on a clean towel. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the mustard greens with the prepared vinaigrette and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Divide the greens onto 4 large plates, top each salad with a poached egg and garnish with the lardons and croutons. Serve immediately.

INDIVIDUAL FRESH-BERRY CLAFOUTIS WITH CRÈME ANGLAISE Makes 6 For the crème anglaise: 5 egg yolks ½ c. granulated sugar, divided 1 pt. half-and-half 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped Pinch salt For the clafoutis: 2 large eggs 1 egg white 1 c. half-and-half ¼ c. granulated sugar 3 T. butter, melted (plus more for preparing dishes) ¼ c. all-purpose flour Zest from ½ lemon Pinch salt ½ c. fresh Texas blueberries or blackberries (or a combination) Make the crème anglaise by whisking together the yolks and half of the sugar in a stainless-steel bowl until light and fluffy. In a small saucepan, bring the half-and-half, the remaining sugar, vanilla bean and the salt to a simmer. Remove the pot from the heat and while whisking vigorously, temper the yolk mixture with some of the warm half-and-half. Add the tempered egg mixture to the pot, return it to the heat and heat to 180° while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Serve immediately or cool in an ice bath and store covered in the refrigerator up to 3 days. To make the individual clafoutis, process the first 8 ingredients with a mixer until thoroughly combined. Strain the mixture and allow it to rest, covered, in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Meanwhile, butter 6, 1-inchdeep gratin dishes and heat the oven to 375°. Distribute the berries evenly in the prepared dishes and add the batter. Place the dishes on a cookie sheet and transfer to the oven. Allow the clafoutis to bake until golden brown and set—about 20 minutes. Remove the clafoutis from the oven, split the surface with a spoon and sauce generously with the warmed crème anglaise. Serve immediately.

COFFEE POTS DE CRÈME Makes 6 1 qt. half-and-half 1 c. brewed espresso ½ vanilla bean 4 egg yolks

3 whole eggs 5 oz. granulated sugar 1 oz. coffee extract

Heat the oven to 300°. Place the half-and-half and espresso in a pot. Open the vanilla bean, scrape the seeds into the pot, toss in the pod and heat the pot over medium heat. Meanwhile, whip the yolks, eggs, sugar and extract until pale and fluffy. When the dairy mixture comes to a simmer, remove from the heat and, carefully and quickly whisk 1 cup of the dairy mixture into the egg mixture--whisking constantly until incorporated. Add the rest of the dairy mixture to the egg mixture and mix well then strain and divide the mixture into 6 4-oz. ramekins. Place the ramekins into a high-sided roasting pan. Fill the pan with boiling water halfway up the sides of the ramekins and bake until just set—about 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool, then chill until ready to serve.

edible Rx

SELF-CARE WITH ESSENTIAL OILS BY EV E C H E N U

he mountain scenery of the

Now considered a branch of herbal

northern Italian Alps was super-

medicine, today’s aromatherapy contin-

lative, but the hiking was strenu-

ues to employ essential oils to promote

ous. Then came more walking through

health and wellness. The extracted oils

ancient alleyways and world-class mu-

are concentrated plant chemicals that

seums as we explored the great cities

are volatile and aromatic. The most

of Italy. With all the walking during the

common method of extraction is distilla-

trip, I developed pain in my right leg

tion or cold-pressing. In addition to the

and foot, and after returning to Austin,

oils, aromatherapy includes hydrosols,

I was eager to overcome this injury and

a co-product of the distillation process

return to my active life as a massage

which contain the water soluble compo-

therapist and personal trainer.

nents of the plant. The carriers used to

I began to research ways to over-

dilute essential oils for topical applica-

come the pain and inflammation in my

tions are also part of aromatherapy. In

tissues, and my search led me to essen-

fact, carriers such as vegetable and nut

tial oils. A couple of days after I started

oils, or aloe vera gel, may provide ther-

applying the oils topically, I was able

apeutic effects in their own right. Oth-

to stop taking the ibuprofen I had been

er carriers include waxes, salts, soaps,

taking for weeks. This is how I discov-

clays, lotions and salves, though water is

ered the power of aromatherapy.

not a good carrier for skin applications

The French perfume chemist

because essential oils do not mix with

René-Maurice Gattefossé first coined

water. Synthetic fragrances and chemi-

the term “l’aromathérapie” in the

cals are not used in preparation.

1930s. He intended the word to reflect

Common aromatherapy methods in-

the medicinal uses of essential oils,

clude inhalation (via an electric diffuser,

not simply the perfumery and mood-enhancing applications. It is

inhaler or steam); topical applications (essential oils must be di-

true that scent is one of the notable characteristics of the volatile

luted before applying to the skin—don’t underestimate how strong

compounds found in essential oils, and that the sense of smell has

they are); bath or footbath; and home cleaning (many essential oils

been associated with emotional and psychological responses. But

kill germs, so they can be used for their antiseptic action in addi-

Gattefossé sought to prove that the therapeutic effects go well be-

tion to making your house smell fresh).

yond pleasant smells and can be attributed to the pharmacological

Finding a trusted source for essential oils and hydrosols is a

properties of the powerful chemicals found in plants. He conduct-

challenge for consumers. They must ask questions and develop a

ed pioneering research on the healing properties of essential oils

relationship with a supplier who can vouch for their sources. A

and consulted with doctors who treated wounded WWI soldiers—

good essential oil supplier must store their products in a cool, dark

veterans who definitely needed more intensive care than pleasant

place. They must provide the chemical analysis (called a GC/MS

smells to lift their spirits.

report) for each batch of oils. The production date and expected

WELLNESS 2016

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

shelf life should also be made available. Because of the lack of regulation, essential oils labeled “100% pure” may contain oils, but

“Best place to cure what ails you”

might be cut with other substances such as vegetable oil or alcohol. The term “therapeutic grade” is also meaningless. Oils and carriers should be organic or wildcrafted (gathered in the wild)

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because residues of pesticides or herbicides are often found in oils

MOSQUITO!

produced from conventionally grown agriculture. Hydrosols have a particularly short shelf life and become contaminated easily, so store them in the refrigerator. I now count aromatherapy as a powerful health and wellness ally, and my clients agree. It opens the door to holistic natural remedies and body care, and taps into the complexity of nature’s own healing chemistry.

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SAFETY FIRST • Use oils with caution during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Follow the guidance of a trained professional. • Keep essential oils out of the eyes, ears and other body orifices. • Essential oils can be poisonous if swallowed. Keep out of the reach of children. • Use hydrosols and carrier oils rather than essential oils for children under 5 and infants. • Some essential oils, such as mandarin leaf, bergamot, cumin, lime oil (expressed), lemon oil (expressed), angelica root, laurel leaf and grapefruit, are phototoxic and can lead to severe sunburn if the user is exposed to UV rays 12 to 18 hours after application. • People with allergies and/or chemical sensitivities should use essential oils with caution. In case of irritation, wash with soap and water and apply a carrier oil. • Do not ingest essential oils unless directed by a specifically trained health professional.

RECOMMENDED DILUTION 1% (5–6 drops of essential oil per ounce of carrier) for children, pregnant women, seniors and anyone sensitive or with weak immunity. 2% (10–12 drops per ounce of carrier) for general health, daily use and skin care. 3% (15–18 drops per ounce of carrier) for acute health issues.

SELECTED AROMATHERAPY RESOURCES The Herb Bar (Austin): theherbbar.com Texas Lavender (Barton Creek Farmers Market): texaslavender.com Aromatics International: Aromatics.com Essential Elements: Essentialelementsstore.com Stillpoint Aromatics: Stillpointaromatics.com Alliance of International Aromatherapists: alliance-aromatherapists.org

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“The Ultimate Nursery for Herbs” Austin Chronicle

Makes 1 oz. 4 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil 6 drops ravintsara a.k.a. ho leaf (Cinnamomum camphora ct 1,8 cineole) essential oil 4 drops frankincense (Boswellia carterii) essential oil 2 drops peppermint (Mentha x piperita) essential oil 1 oz. jojoba oil

Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners

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MUSCLE AND NERVE PAIN BLEND

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Mix all ingredients into a tinted 1-ounce bottle. Rub into sore area several times daily.

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Witch hazel hydrosol (Note: Don’t get the kind available in chain drugstores—it’s high in alcohol.) Yarrow hydrosol German chamomile hydrosol Fill a clear glass 2-ounce spray bottle with approximately equal amounts of the three hydrosols. Spray on itchy rash, dermatitis or eczema as needed.

IMMUNITY INHALER BLEND Courtesy of Andrea Butje (Aromahead.com) Makes 1 inhaler treatment 8 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil 3 drops peppermint (Mentha x piperita) essential oil 4 drops ravintsara a.k.a. ho leaf (Cinnamomum camphora ct 1,8 cineole) essential oil Add essential oils to the cotton insert that comes with the inhaler and close the assembly. Inhale deeply into each nostril several times a day to ward off colds and flu. Close lid tightly between uses. (This is great for taking on airplanes.)

BURN SALVE Makes 1 oz. 1 oz. aloe vera gel 18 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil Mix the aloe vera gel and lavender essential oil and place in a 1-ounce PET plastic bottle with a pop top. Shake well. Apply to burns several times daily.

ARTHRITIS OIL Courtesy of Andrea Butje (Aromahead.com) Makes 1 oz. 1 oz. hemp seed oil 5 drops black pepper (Piper nigrum) essential oil 4 drops juniper berry (Juniperus communis) essential oil 3 drops lemon (Citrus x limon) essential oil 6 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) essential oil

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Mix the hemp seed oil with the essential oils in a tinted 1-ounce glass bottle. Apply to the area of pain several times daily. Find more recipes at edibleaustin.com

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edible ENDEAVOR

AN IMPROVED PROCESS BY K AT E W EST • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J O A N N SA N TA N G E LO

hen you think about local chicken, Dewberry Hills Farm

raise some chickens,” he says. “We got 15 from a local feed store,

might come to mind. And thanks to a recent expansion

and I eventually gave the meat to my computer customers and

in their processing facility, their chicken is more famil-

they would say, ‘That’s the best chicken I ever ate.’”

iar to customers at local grocery stores such as Wheatsville and at

That first year, Terry harvested about 150 chickens; the next

more than two dozen Central Texas restaurants. But this chicken

year it doubled. By 2008, the couple retired the computer repair

farm isn’t what you might expect. Set on 20 acres of rolling hills

business and took a run at making Dewberry Hills Farm a full-

in Lexington (about an hour east of Austin), this farm has grown,

time chicken-processing farm. “We would sell the chicken at the

over the past eight years, to become more than just a place that

farmers market at Sunset Valley. That gave us the exposure to the

raises and harvests chickens, but into an industry leader, demon-

chefs walking around,” says Terry. “But when Beetnik Foods asked

strating that small farms are still alive and well in an era dominat-

us to provide 400 chickens per week, we knew we had to find a

ed by large chicken-processing companies like Tyson. “We are an

way to double our production.”

anomaly…we are a total anomaly in 2016,” says farm owner Terry Levan.

Ramping up production with the current facilities wasn’t financially possible. Prior to Beetnik Foods calling, the couple had debat-

Terry and his wife, Jane, never intended to become chicken

ed taking out a line of credit to build on to their facility, but every

farmers. In fact, when the couple purchased the land in 1999, Ter-

option would create financial setbacks for the business. Still, they

ry was running a computer repair business. But his roots kept

knew the brooding house (which was a small shed) and the process-

calling. “I grew up on a farm in northwestern Illinois,” he says.

ing facility (equally as small) would never allow them to expand the

“We had cows and sheep, and we were a very involved 4-H family.

way they envisioned. “But fifteen minutes after we took the call from

When I was a teenager, I ran about sixty head of sheep and thir-

Beetnik,” Terry says, “they called back saying they were willing to

ty-five head of cattle, and my beef herd put me through college.”

provide investment capital—and the big changes began.”

It wasn’t until reading an article in Smithsonian Magazine about

That investment of hundreds of thousands of dollars creat-

a poultry producer in Virginia, Joel Salatin of Polyface Farm,

ed 1,000 square feet of additional processing plant, 200 square

though, that a light bulb went off for Terry. “We thought we could

feet of walk-in refrigerator space, freezers, upgraded processing EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

WELLNESS 2016

“Big commercial companies will transport their birds in trucks for twenty-four hours and that can put stress on the bird and tighten up their muscle fibers. And that changes the quality of the chicken.” —Terry Levan equipment and a real 48,000-square-foot brooder house where

at Dewberry instead of hauling them hundreds of miles away.

1,000 chickens can live. “They spend about three weeks in the

While the journey from processing a few dozen chickens

brooder house,” Terry says. “And the next five weeks being real

a year to more than 2,000 pounds of chicken a week has been

pasture-raised chickens eating bugs.”

a challenge, Terry looks at it as a triumph over the big compa-

Terry made the 35 tents that the pastured chickens call home.

nies. “When I was a teenager, every town had a small processing

Inside, 100 chickens at a time forage and peck the fields. “We pick

plant—especially for red meat,” he says. “They’re all gone because

up and slide those tents each day so the chickens have fresh foli-

the big processors have driven them out of business and hardly

age, and so they’re not standing in their own waste,” says Terry.

anyone does poultry except for the big companies. My farm was

The chickens are hand-selected four days per week to be pro-

put together by a shoestring and it has been broken apart and

cessed based on the size that a client requests—amounting to

put back together, and I’m still working harder than I have ever

about 400 birds per day thanks to the improved facility space.

worked, but it is so rewarding.”

Terry says the next step in the process is one reason his birds taste so good. “We walk nine hundred feet,” he says. “Big commercial companies will transport their birds in trucks for twenty-four hours and that can put stress on the bird and tighten up their muscle fibers. And that changes the quality of the chicken.” The increase in production also resulted in the farm attaining USDA-inspected certification, because the meat is now shipped outside of Texas. That means an inspector has to be present during processing to look for health issues with the birds. “We also have a veterinarian on hand as a line inspector who looks at the final product. This really ups our quality assurance. But being a small farm, we’re in control of the product we give our customer and get to see our birds not just from the outside, but from the inside on a daily basis,” Terry says. The USDA title also opens up the door for other small, local farms to process their chickens 54

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For more information, visit dhfarms.com or call 512-308-7706. ostscript: This April, a massive thunderstorm devastated Dewberry P Hills Farm just as it was beginning to recover from the tornado in December. Seventy-five mile an hour winds and torrential rain destroyed their movable chicken tents and flooded the pastures. Lighting strikes prevented the Levans from going out into the field during the storm and many of their birds drowned. Repairs and updates are needed: Mobile tents must be replaced with larger and heavier metal mobile coops that can withstand extreme wind gusts and rain-water collection gutters need to be installed on all new buildings to prevent pastures from flooding. I n addition to friends and family pitching in to help the Levans rebuild and recover, the community has kicked in, too. In May, Slow Food Austin dedicated proceeds from a happy hour at Olamaie, and in June a benefit was held at Springdale Farm. A gofundme account has also been set up. Find it at gofundme.com/22xr2rg

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edible BEVERAGES

TEXAS SPARKLERS BY RUSS K A N E

ome Texas wineries are expanding their repertoires to include

Barter, manager of Four Point Cellars near Fredericksburg where Lost

sparkling wines. These winery owners and winemakers see

Oak is a partner winery, plays off the wine’s unique sweet traits to

Texas sparklers as a way to distinguish themselves in the in-

make specialty drinks. Estes’ wife, Judy, recommends pairing the

creasingly crowded field of Texas-wine-country enterprises. But one potential issue is that Texas, as a wine region, more closely resembles warm Mediterranean locales than the cool, damp hills of north central Europe that are home to the traditional grape varieties—chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier—used for méthode champenoise (the government-regulated wine-production method required in order to call a sparkling wine “Champagne”). However, like the producers of Italian prosecco and Asti spumante, and makers of Spanish cava before them, Texas winemakers are now exploring which local grapes can be used to produce a new breed of Texas-style sparkling wines. Grape Creek Vineyards 2014 Euphoria

sparkling moscato with creamy desserts such as tres leches cake. Messina Hof Winery 2014 Sparkling Brut and 2014 Sparkling Rosé The blanc du bois grape is a French/American hybrid developed over half a century, ending in the late 1980s. The goal was to produce a white-wine grape suitable for warmer and more humid regions like Texas. “We’ve been impressed with Blanc Du Bois’ adaptability for making many styles of wines,” says Paul M. Bonarrigo, co-owner of Messina Hof Winery. “We saw sparkling wines as a fast-growing sector of the wine business and felt that blanc du bois had the right characteristics for a nice Texas sparkler.” Bonarrigo’s Sparkling Brut and Sparkling Rosé are two tank-fer-

“To make our Euphoria, we wanted characteristics produced

mented offerings that highlight blanc du bois’ fresh and floral nuances.

by méthode champenoise, also called méthode traditionelle outside

The dry brut’s effervescence carries delicate citrus aromatics, while

the Champagne region,” says Grape Creek Vineyards owner Brian

the rosé (made with an addition of pinot noir and finished with 2 per-

Heath. “Consequently, this wine involves carbonation in this clas-

cent residual sugar) has tropical fruit characteristics combined with

sic way—with secondary fermentation and extended yeast contact

strawberry and cranberry notes. Bonarrigo likes to pair the brut with

in-bottle. It’s the process I associate with fine sparkling wines.”

a variety of soft cheeses and lightly poached seafood preparations, and

Euphoria is a dry, brut-style sparkler made from 50 percent Grape Creek’s Estate chenin blanc and 50 percent Texas High Plains muscat canelli. It has a persistent effervescent mousse, velvety mouthfeel and yeasty zest with notes of green melon, sweet cream, ginger and honeysuckle. “We created this wine for a growing consumer sector: modern, and often younger, wine consumers that are changing the paradigm—who see sparkling wines for everyday sipping and not something just saved for celebratory events,” says Heath. Lost Oak Winery 2012 Sweet Moscato “Our Sweet Moscato is seriously good…and yet a bit playful,” says

suggests grilled shrimp and vegetables or charcuterie—for the rosé. Eden Hill Vineyard 2015 Harmony and 2015 Temptation Taking a page out of the sparkling wine history of the tiny northern Rhône appellation of Saint-Péray, Eden Hill Vineyard decided to base its sparkling wines on white Rhône grape varieties grown here in Texas. “It was obvious that the [traditional] champenoise grape varieties are just not suited for our Texas climate,” says family winemaker Chris Hornbaker. “But we’ve had great success making nicely structured and gold-medal-worthy white wines from roussanne, and now have its Rhône-partner marsanne to work with, too.”

Lost Oak Winery owner Gene Estes. “We made it for the people in our

Hornbaker’s Harmony is a dry, 50/50 blend of roussanne and mar-

tasting room who have a willingness to try new things.” It’s definite-

sanne and stitches together citrus and ripe yellow apple with a bone-

ly a “wine of opportunity”: 2012 was a good year for muscat canelli

dry mineral finish. It begs for a plate of freshly shucked gulf oysters

grape production and offered ample opportunity to use quite a bit of

or just about any food that comes with cream sauce. His semi-sweet

the harvest for sparkling wine. Lost Oak’s Sweet Moscato was made

Temptation keys on the lemon drop notes of Texas roussanne that,

medium-sweet (4 percent residual sugar) in the frizzante style (light-

when combined with sweetness, also yield ripe pear and pineapple

ly sparkling) that’s common in the well-known Italian moscato d’Asti

nuances that Hornbaker says go great with mildly sweet desserts—

made from the same grape. Like Asti, this sparkling moscato uses tank

especially those made with lemon—or spicy foods.

fermentation (the Charmat method), resulting in a fruit-driven wine,

Texas wineries are gearing up to offer sparkling wines for just

strong in tropical flavors such as pineapple and mango. Estes believes

about every palate. These are only a few of the many out there.

the wine became even more honey-like with bottle aging, and Jesse

Enjoy the Texas sparkle!

WELLNESS 2016

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WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

WITH EGGS BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N

hen it comes to pairing beverages with

for a light dinner with its low tannin levels, delicate

egg dishes, many find the task a bit

plummy flavor and nuances of herbs.

daunting. Eggs wear many culinary

hats—from bright and brunchy to savory and se-

Poached Duck Egg with Baby Mustard

ductively silky. And just like the versatility of the

Greens, Lardons, Sourdough Croutons and

egg itself, complementary beverages abound—

Shallot-Mustard Vinaigrette (page 46). A great

each with its own personality to consider.

salad can be the perfect pairing for a well-selected beer. Hefeweizen is a German-style wheat beer

Uova al Pomodoro (page 45). This tomato-

with a well-rounded, soft yeasty flavor. It brings a

laden dish—with its generous hit of herbs and

taste addition to a meal that is akin to a good loaf

spices—features eggs poached in a rich sauce. It

of bread. Try the Lobo Hefe from Fredericksburg’s

definitely needs a bold beverage, and what could

Pedernales Brewing Company. It’s produced

be better than a pronounced, tomato-themed

in the Bavarian style from 50 percent malted bar-

Bloody Mary? Try a version made with cactus

ley and 50 percent malted wheat—resulting in an

moonshine from Texas Hill Country Distillers.

opaque, golden-straw-colored, effervescent beer.

For each cocktail, combine 4 ounces of Austin’s Lauren’s Garden Bloody Mary Mix, 1½ ounces

Individual Fresh Berry Clafoutis with Crème

of Texas Hill Country Distillers Prickly Pear

Anglaise (page 47). A sweet, summery dessert

Cactus Moonshine, a squeeze of fresh lemon

deserves a sweet sparkling wine. There are many

juice and a dash of Tabasco. Stir to blend well and

produced in Texas, but a standout is the Lost

chill. Or if you prefer a beverage with lighter alcohol, try a Kölsch-

Oak Winery 2012 Sweet Moscato. Because 2012 was a great

style beer such as the Saint Arnold Brewing Company Santo—

year for muscat canelli grapes, the resulting abundant harvest al-

it’s a light-bodied beer with great notes of florals and distinctive

lowed Lost Oak owner/winemaker Gene Estes to set aside a hefty

malt, a fine match for the concentrated acid in the tomato sauce.

portion of the grapes to produce a sparkling wine, and the wine he produced is stellar. It presents a medium-sweet, fruit-driven taste

French Omelet with Smoked Gouda and Apple Compote

profile in sparkling frizzante style. It’s a great match to creamy

(page 44). With its kick of smoky Gouda cheese, this sophisti-

sauces like the crème anglaise in this dish, and the bubbles lend

cated omelet presents a unique pairing opportunity. How about

lightness to this rich dessert.

something to parallel the apples…such as apple cider! Not just any apple cider will do, though. Try sparkling Grafter Rosé from

Coffee Pots de Crème (page 47). With its heavy espresso/coffee

Austin’s own Texas Keeper Cider. This racy potable is a blend

flavor profile and rich cream, this dessert presents two unique pairing

made from Rome Beauty apple cider and Texas tempranillo wine

possibilities. Because of the boldness and complexity, it can certainly

(from Pedernales Cellars). The two are blended into a refresh-

handle a rich dessert wine such as the Haak Vineyards and Winery

ing pink fizz, and the tempranillo—which is a great match for

2013 Blanc du Bois Madeira. Owner Raymond Haak is a pioneer at

cheese—helps round out the smoky nuances of the Gouda.

producing a true Madeira-style wine from the blanc du bois grape—a native hybrid grown in his estate vineyard near Galveston. The wine

Frittata with Swiss Chard, Golden Raisins, Pine Nuts and

has aromatic fragrances of caramel, which follow through on the pal-

Pancetta (page 45). The frittata is a prime example of the versatility

ate as soft nuances of caramel-coated apricots—making it a suited

of eggs. Chef Will Packwood’s version fits perfectly with a good Texas

match for the loud coffee flavors in this dish. Another interesting

rosé, and one of the very best comes from legendary Texas winemak-

pairing would be a Porter-style beer such as Austin’s 512 Brewing

er, Kim McPherson. Try McPherson Cellars 2015 Les Copains dry

Company Pecan Porter. This full-bodied brew is nearly black in

rosé. A blend of cinsault, grenache and rolle grapes, this wine begs

color, with nuances of malty sweetness and local pecans. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

WELLNESS 2016

department of ORGANIC YOUTH

HIGH EXPECTATIONS BY J O S E P H I N E M O N T M I N Y

Josephine

three goats just outside of Austin.

Montminy, and I am a stu-

We brought them to school in ear-

dent in the Green Tech

ly September 2015, and so far, Vea,

Academy program at Clint Small,

Fern and Nova have been great ad-

Jr. Middle School. I started the pro-

ditions to the campus. Many of the

gram when I was in sixth grade be-

sixth and seventh graders actually

cause I wanted to learn more about

run to their Green classes so they

the environment, and over the past

can be the first to walk the goats.

name

three years, I’ve taken a sequence

A couple of months after we

of classes available nowhere else

got the goats, Madelyn and I no-

in the state of Texas: Native Plants

ticed that Vea’s belly was getting

and Animals; The World Outside

much bigger than the other two.

(an introduction to ecosystems and

We thought it was because she

sustainability); Nature Tech (ju-

was eating more than them. As

nior permaculture design); Green

the winter break came, my family

Growing (an introduction to hor-

decided to keep the goats at our

ticulture); Environmental Ethics;

house until school started again in

and Independent Study (Capstone Project). Soon, I will earn Green Certification for completing these

January. My neighbor came over and said that Vea was pregnant! We were very shocked.

classes, but the greatest lesson I’ve learned is that everything is con-

Madelyn and I spoke with the people we bought the goats from,

nected—that our own actions greatly affect the balance of environ-

and they said it was possible that Vea could be pregnant. Once we

mental systems.

knew for certain that Vea would be giving birth, my teachers and

Most people are aware of basic strategies for becoming a better

I agreed that we could care for her better at my house. I spoke

steward of the Earth— recycling, composting, and reducing energy

with friends and family about their experiences, and we did a lot

and water use. But my Independent Study class has allowed me to

of research on how to take care of pregnant goats. Vea’s belly

focus on a specific environmental problem and design a sustain-

kept getting bigger by the day, but we could only estimate her

able solution. My partner, Madelyn, and I are both interested in

due date based on the average length of gestation for Nigerian

farm animals, so we started researching which animals might be

Dwarfs (approximately 150 days) and the time she had been with

the best choice for our campus ecosystem. Our school tried to keep

us. Vea ended up giving birth to a single kid on February 4, 2016.

two Boer goats last year, but they proved to be too large for the

Kale weighed 3 pounds at birth and had a black and silver coat.

students to handle, and they produced nothing that would cover

We took Vea and Kale back to school at the beginning of April and

the expense of keeping them. They’re now living the good life on a

they are both doing well. We sell the soap we make from the goat

big ranch. Because dairy goats could provide the raw materials for

milk at school events, but there isn’t much milk right now since

a sustainable, student-managed business while feeding mostly on

only one of the goats is lactating.

campus vegetation, we decided they were the best choice. Our research led us to Nigerian Dwarf goats, because they’re known for producing high-quality milk and they’d be easier for

Being a part of the Green Tech Academy has not only widened my interests about our Earth, but I’ve learned how to personally change our local environment for the greater good.

students to handle. Also, they could produce manure for our compost and we could make soap from their rich milk (FDA regula-

Josephine Montminy is a student in the Green Tech Academy pro-

tions prohibit us from selling the milk or making food products

gram at Clint Small, Jr. Middle School. She enjoys the outdoors

from it). Fortunately, a Craigslist ad caught our eye and we found

and her chickens, and she loves to spend her free time reading.

WELLNESS 2016

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GREEN CORN PROJECT

Bridgette Tovar catching bugs in the school garden,

GOOD WORK

a grant that helped pay for garden improvements. But a few years later, fluctuations in funding and staffing, coupled with the nev-

BY R E N E E ST U D E BA K E R

er-ending need for garden maintenance, began to take a toll. Weeds grew tall, the

garden gate started to sag slight breeze ruffles the hair of second-grader Bridgette Tovar as she kneels in the dirt with a plastic cup of soapy

and there was even some quiet talk that it might be time to throw in the shovel.

water in one hand and a small stick in the other. She’s trying

But Maldonado didn’t want that to happen. She values the gar-

to sneak up on one of the harlequin bugs that have been attacking

den’s educational role and believes that the work required to keep

what’s left of a late-season crop of collard greens in the school gar-

it going is “one hundred percent worth it.” Smith’s after-school pro-

den at Smith Elementary in southeast Austin. This is not her first

gram coordinator Miguel Benavides didn’t want to give up on the

time on “bad bug patrol,” so she knows what to do. First, she’ll make

garden, either. He applied for a new grant and hired me as a part-

sure she’s identified the bug correctly and is absolutely sure that it’s

time garden teacher. I also happen to be an active volunteer for the

not a ladybug. Then, with one swift move, she’ll knock the bug into

Green Corn Project, a nonprofit gardening group that’s currently

the cup of soapy water. On this day, there aren’t many harlequin bugs

trying to expand its services to elementary schools in low-income

in plain view because garden class students have been catching them

areas. Naturally, I suggested Smith as a good candidate for Green

all week. Nevertheless, after a few minutes, she yells out, “I got one!”

Corn’s school garden program.

Patrolling for bugs, spreading mulch, planting seeds, watering

So far, the arrangement is a win-win. As a Green Corn volunteer,

and weed-pulling are all educational, kid-friendly garden activities

I’m able to see, up close, the amazing affect a group of our volunteer

that can be done during class time. But after signing on as a garden

gardeners can have on a school garden. And as garden coordinator at

instructor at Smith two years ago, I figured out pretty quickly that

Smith, I can look forward to assistance at the start of each growing

using a shovel and fork to turn hard clay into viable soil is a chore

season from Green Corn volunteers.

better left to others—LOTS of others—because this garden is HUGE

The Smith garden may always be something of a challenge because

(more than 6,000 square feet). It’s also heavily infested with Bermu-

of its size, but with continued help from Green Corn volunteers and

da grass, which is why I was not surprised to learn that the garden,

a growing garden team that includes YardFarm, Whole Kids Founda-

which was created 15 years ago, has a somewhat rocky past.

tion, Texas Parks & Wildlife, Davey Tree, Geo Growers and 4-H

Smith Principal Frances Maldonado was a teacher at the school

Capital, its future is looking less rocky. Which is good news for the 40

when the garden was started, so she’s seen it in good times and

or so students doing their part after school by wrangling bugs, plant-

not so good times. “Before L.E.A.D. [Smith’s after-school program],

ing seeds, composting, watering, harvesting and then finally, eating

teachers helped take care of the garden,” she says. “But there were

the fruits of their labor. “I like the food we make in the garden,” says

some years when it was nothing but weeds.” That after-school pro-

one fifth grader. “It’s different from what I usually eat, but it’s good.”

gram that began six years ago brought new life to the struggling

garden with the addition of garden classes, garden workdays and

To make a donation or to learn more, visit greencornproject.org

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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Delysia Chocolatier Handcrafted in Austin. Our products are handmade using fine quality, sustainable chocolate and only the freshest ingredients. 512-413-4701 2000 Windy Terrace, Suite 2C delysia.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 35 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd. ilikelick.com

Lone Star Meats Lone Star Meats is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6220 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarmeats.com

Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com

Wholy Bagel Wholy Bagel prepares scratch-made New York style bagels daily. 512-899-0200 4404 W. William Cannon Dr. wholybagelatx.com

BAKERIES Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com

Tiny Pies Tiny Pies are just like grandma made only smaller. Both savory & sweet. We cater, offer corporate gifting ideas, deliver locally & ship nationally. 512-916-0184; 5035 Burnet Rd. tinypies.com

BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com

Bending Branch Winery Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thurs-Sun. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Cibolo Creek Brewing Co. A place to kick back and meet your neighbors in a family friendly atmosphere, while enjoying house brewed beer and eating fresh pub food. 254-979-1988 488 S. Main St., Boerne cibolocreekbrewing.com

Compass Rose Cellars Experience chef-inspired dining at our intimate winery with breathtaking Hill Country views at Compass Rose Cellars in Hye, TX. Worth the journey. 830-868-7799; 1197 Hye-Albert Rd., Hye compassrosecellars.com

Lewis Wines Boutique producer of 100% Texas wines in Johnson City, Texas. 512-987-0660 3209 Hwy. 290 W., Johnson City lewiswines.com

Twisted X Brewing Craft brewery nestled at the foot of the Hill Country. Our tap room is open weekly with 13 locally brewed beers on tap, it’s a great place for a party or to simply enjoy a pint. 512-829-5323 23455 W. RR 150, Dripping Springs texmexbeer.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits

Pink Avocado

Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food, and surprisingly good professional service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St., Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy., Bee Cave 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Hills Vineyard Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 830-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

Texas Keeper Ciders Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

EDUCATION Austin Independent School District Reinventing the public school experience - Austin ISD student scores exceed state and national averages on SAT. Visit your local school today. 512-414-1700 1111 W. 6th St. austinisd.org

The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

EVENTS Westfest Polka Festvial Held every Labor Day weekend. Large parade, carnival, midway, tractor pull, cultural demonstrations, fun, food and dance. Plenty to do for the whole family. 254-826-5058 110 E. 10th St., West westfest.com

Whim Hospitality

Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937, Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 3525 Market St., Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY

Lost Draw Cellars

Foodee

Lost Draw Cellars produces stellar Texas wines from our vineyards in the Texas High Plains, sourcing grapes for some of the best wineries in the state. 830-992-3251; 113 E. Park St., Fredericksburg lostdrawcellars.com

Foodee delivers best in class food from your favorite local restaurants direct to your office. Group meals and catering have never tasted so good! 1-844-8FOODEE food.ee

The Whim Hospitality family of services includes Catering, Event and Tent Rentals and Florals. Separately, or as a package of services, we help make your next event memorable. 512-858-9446 2001 W. Hwy. 290, Ste. 107, Dripping Springs whimhospitality.com

FARMERS MARKETS Sustainable Food Center SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

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FARMS Burg’s Corner Fredericksburg peches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com

Capra Premium Dorper Lamb Locally raised, All Natural, Premium Dorper Lamb. 325-648-2418 1110 E. Front St., Goldthwaite caprafoods.com

FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts. 512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk St., Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson St., La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado St., Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com

GROCERS Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY DITI Imaging DITI Imaging is South Texas’ leading thermography provider with over 10 years experience providing a pain-free, radiation-free means of breast screening. 210-705-1232; 866-409-2506 Austin, Wimberley, Boerne, Kerrville and New Braunfels ditiimaging.com

Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli

It’s About Thyme Garden Center

Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com

Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192; 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Remedy Center for Healing Arts Come to Remedy for natural wellness. Restoring health and balance through Chinese medicine: acupuncture and herbs and other oddities. Claudia Voyles, LAc. 512-322-9648 4403 A Manchaca Rd. remedyhealing.com

Wiseman Family Practice Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 300 Medical Arts St. 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. wisemanfamilypractice.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100; 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113; 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

LODGING AND TOURISM Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food! 512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com

Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452; 501 S. Hwy. 183 callahansgeneralstore.com

Der Küchen Laden

Bullock Texas State History Museum

Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251; 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Kettle & Brine Kettle & Brine is a curated kitchen and home provisions store, specializing in high-end, heirloom quality goods, that inspire people to cook and eat together more. 512-375-4239 908-C W. 12th St. kettleandbrine.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655; 3601 Bee Cave Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Blanton Museum of Art The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas. 512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. blantonmuseum.org

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Foodshed Investors AFI connects investors with Central Texas local sustainable food entrepreneurs to create quality investment opportunities with personal engagement. 512-571-0100 4101 Medical Parkway St., Ste. 107 austinfoodshedinvestors.com

Austin Label Company Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Brenham/Washington County CVB Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries and great lodging. 979-836-3696; 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com

Callahan’s General Store

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART

The Bullock Texas State History Museum includes three floors of exhibitions, an IMAX® theater, a 4D special-effects theater, café, and museum store. 512-936-8746; 1800 N. Congress Ave. thestoryoftexas.com

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

NONPROFIT Central Texas Food bank The Central Texas Food Bank is on the front line of hunger relief in a 21-county area, helping nearly 46,000 Central Texans each week access nutritious food when they need it the most. 512-282-2111; 6500 Metropolis Dr. centraltexasfoodbank.org

REAL ESTATE Barbara Van Dyke Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty RealtorHelping buyers and sellers move to the next chapter of their lives. 512-431-2552 4301 Westbank Dr. B-100 barbaravandyke.kuperrealty.com

Headwaters Headwaters is a new community located in Dripping Springs celebrating natural beauty, stewardship and outdoor living. It’s ranch life, re-imagined. 2401 E. US Hwy. 290, Dripping Springs liveheadwaters.com

RESTAURANTS Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242; 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Bistro Vonish Elevated vegan cuisine, showcasing the freshest flavors of Central Texas. 203-982-7762 facebook.com/bistrovonish

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reveal-v3.pdf

East Side Pies

ThunderCloud Subs

512-524-0933; 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437; 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900; 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. Corp. Offce: 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com

Hut’s Hamburgers An Austin tradition since 1939 featuring grassfed Longhorn beef and bison burgers. 512-472-0693; 807 W. 6th St. hutsfrankandangies.com

Jobell Cafe & Bistro We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700; 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327; 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778; 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Otto’s German Bistro Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats, local beers and wines on tap, and handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com

Salt & Time Butcher Shop and Salumeria A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant. 100% locally sourced meat and oroduce, house made deli meats, charcuterie, and salumi. 512-524-1383; 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com

Snack Bar A nostalgic Austin café and lounge, cultivating community and camaraderie by providing a truly hospitable environment and serving accessible, ethical foods. 512-445-2626; 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com

Thai Fresh Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients. 512-494-6436; 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com

6/8/16

10:58 AM

The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

Vinaigrette A farm-to-table restaurant serving entrée salads and botany-inspired drinks/cocktails. Patio dining and parking available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. 512-852-8791 2201 College Ave. 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, NM 505-842-5507 1828 Central Ave. SW, Albuquerque, NM vinaigretteonline.com

We’re Revealing the Chefs Very Soon!

VOX Table New-American restaurant serving chef-crafted small plates that highlight farm-to-table ingredients and a lively craft cocktail bar. The perfect restaurant to wine and dine Austin-Style. 512-375-4869 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 2140 voxtableaustin.com

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

SPECIALTY MARKETS Gourmet By Numbers Cook smarter, not harder! We are here to help you put delicious meals – using local fare – on the table in 30 minutes or less. 512-900-5801 7318 McNeil Drive, Ste 109 gourmetbynumbers.com

October 6

at The Allan House tickets and information at

edibleaustin.com beneﬁting Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots

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WELLNESS WELLNESS 2016 2016

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ART DE TERROIR

THE SEER BY PA M E L A WA L K E R

ilmmaker Laura Dunn has been read-

The film opens with music by Kerry

ing and following Wendell Berry

Muzzey against jolting images of con-

since she was in high school. Her

temporary displacement and destruction

new documentary, “The Seer,” is about

accelerated to a frenzy: vehicles speed-

Berry’s life of farming and writing in Henry

ing on freeways; mountain tops being re-

County, Kentucky—his birthplace and

moved for coal; people running to catch

family home for generations—and about

trains and planes; bombs exploding in war

his ongoing critique of how traditional,

zones; cranes building skyscrapers; planes

small-scale family farming, such as his

spraying agricultural chemicals on vast

own, has all but been destroyed by indus-

fields; and people absorbed in mobile de-

trial agriculture. The film had its world

vices, oblivious to all else. At some point

premiere at this year’s SXSW Film Festival,

in this sequence, music gives way to a

garnering a Special Award for Visual Design;

voice-over of Berry reading his poem “A

it also won Grand Jury Prize for Best Doc-

Timbered Choir,” which, similar to “Santa

umentary at 2016 Nashville Film Festival.

Clara Valley,” decries that “every place had

When asked about the impetus for this

been displaced” and most people rendered

film—specifically whether it was Berry’s

homeless, “having never known where

words or work that inspired it—Dunn re-

they were going, having never known

plied that the two are inseparable. And she

where they came from.”

alluded to her last film, “The Unforeseen,”

The screen goes dark and silent briefly,

a documentary about real estate develop-

and next comes the sound of footfall on a

ment jeopardizing the Barton Creek watershed in Austin. In it, she

leaf-covered path behind a black and white dog. We have entered

used voice-overs of Berry reading “Santa Clara Valley,” a poem

Berry country—his farm and his community of Port Royal, Kentucky.

decrying the human small-mindedness and greed ruining Earth’s

Dunn organizes the film into five chapters and an epilogue, titled

natural bounty and beauty. “I was surprised more people didn’t

after some of Berry’s titles and themes. As the chapters unfold,

know about Berry,” she said. “And I got interested in making a

Berry and members of his family and community reflect on the

film about him in hopes of enticing more people to buy a Wendell

particular ways their daily lives have been changed by the demise

Berry book and go from there.”

of the small-scale, diversified farming that flourished before the

Wendell Berry himself (famous for shunning screens of all types)

USDA concentrated land ownership into only a few hands, re-

is not in the film however, except in voice, old photographs and film

placed people with machines and chemicals and, in the words of

clips from his 1974 talk at the Agriculture for a Small Planet Symposium

one of the farmers, changed farming “from an art to an industry.”

in Spokane, Washington, at Expo ’74, a world’s fair about environ-

The film succeeds in its earnest attempt to bring to light the

mental issues. The talk resounds with Berry’s outrage at USDA pol-

essence of Wendell Berry’s passion. “The film makes clear that

icies—especially under Secretary of Agriculture Earl Butz—devised

certain things going largely unquestioned must be thought about,”

to push small farmers out and industrial-scale farmers in. Through-

said Mary Berry—daughter of Wendell and his wife Tanya, and the

out the film, Dunn juxtaposes clips of Berry’s talk and shots of Henry

executive director of The Berry Center, a nonprofit dedicated to

County farmers and farm scenes with clips of Butz ordering farm-

putting Wendell Berry’s writings to work. “One is the problem of

ers in various ways “to adapt or die.” Berry’s Spokane talk was

overproduction, another the need for some kind of parity pricing

the seed of his 1977 book, “The Unsettling of America: Culture

so that it’s not just a race to the bottom for farmers. We need to cre-

& Agriculture,” perhaps his most widely influential work and the

ate an economy around local food production for local markets.”

one that most informs Dunn’s film.

WELLNESS 2016

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For more information, visit theseerfilm.com

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