Edible Austin Cooks 2016 by Edible Austin

No. 48 Sept/Oct | Cooks 2016

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

The

COOKS Issue

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CONTENTS COOKS at home 14 Ray Benson 18 Wendy Davis 22 Grae Nonas and Chiai Matsumoto 48 Seela Misra 52 Amy Corbin 56 Carrie Fountain and Kirk Lynn

notable MENTIONS Our Edible Escape winners and more.

66 what we're DRINKING with our cooks at home.

COOKS toolbox

at HOME

His and his must-have kitchen tools.

cooking BASICS 32 Curry 36 Infusing with Extracts 40 Beans

COVER: Grae Nonas’ “Me on a Plate” Spaghetti alla Chitarra by Melanie Grizzel (page 22).

A&K Woodworking and Design.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

COOK IT UP I

know that you’re not supposed to pick favorites among your

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

offspring. But our “Cooks” issue is secretly my favorite baby.

EDITOR We launched “Cooks” back in 2010 as a special annual addi-

tion to our then-quarterly issues. My original vision for it was to create a hybrid of a foodie-inspired People magazine and a localized Cooks Illustrated. What do notable Austinites cook when they cook at home? What knowledge can some of our favorite professional food makers impart to us regarding cooking

Kim Lane

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

basics for the home cook? Most of all, I wanted to give our readers an entertaining, instructive, backstage glimpse into the rich and delicious rewards of

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

cooking. A roadmap, if you will, for inspiring and encouraging more cooking adventures

Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Addie Maher Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore

in our home kitchens. One of the best ways we find inspiration for home cooking is by example: a parent or grandparent teaching a child, a favorite cooking show or blog, friends sharing sour-

EVENTS COORDINATOR Susanna Cassady

dough starter, a trip abroad. And almost counter-intuitively, going out to eat. A telling

MARKETING SPECIALISTS

instance of how our dining-out experiences can inspire us was brought home to me by a

Christine Andrews, Christy Davidovich, Valerie Kelly

friend, RP Watson, who recently found inspiration at Pieous Pizza to recreate an especially delicious dish he experienced there for his family at home. He explains, “I am no fan of pastrami, though it’s mainly my ignorance due to lack of experience. Always was exposed to the manufactured product. Never thought one might make it at home. But

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Grayson Oheim

we went to Pieous last week and I happened to notice a plate of pastrami that looked

INTERN

really good—so we tried it. It was wonderful and obviously made fresh. Now we’re

Darby Kendall

smitten.” He then proceeded to research how to make it (soaking in brine or applying a dry salt cure) and went with the latter from a recipe he found on seriouseats.com. At the time of this writing, RP is two days in to a four-day process and joyfully anticipating the results. We’ll share those with you online at edibleaustin.com. In this issue of “Cooks” (our seventh) you’ll find out what former state legislator Wendy Davis cooks at home and what musical legend Ray Benson means by making “soup.” Chef Iliana de la Vega tells us how to make the perfect pot of beans. Anthony and Chad of Lick Honest Ice Creams fame share their “must-have” kitchen tools. And, of course, we give you many, many recipes to try at home. When we moved to bimonthly publishing, “Cooks” became part of our regular six-issue lineup. Yet it still retains a unique menu of stories and voice that sets it apart. And readers still collect and keep it on their kitchen bookshelves to use as reference for honing their cooking acumen. Of this I am most proud.

COOKS 2016

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ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2016. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

Take Home a Chef! Aya

Eden East

Foreign & Domestic

Parkside

Zack Northcutt

Barlata

Uchiko

Juniper

Travaasa

October 6 at The Allan House Buy Your Tickets Now at edibleaustin.com small bites by auction chefs, refreshing beverages, live and silent auction all benefiting Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots

notable MENTIONS ENJOY GOOD TIMES AT THE BAVARIAN BROTZEIT If you don’t know what brotzeit is, that’s okay. Its literal translation is easy enough to understand and get behind: it’s “bread time.” We also take it to mean a good time full of goodwill, so on Thursday, September 22, from 5 to 8 p.m., Edible Austin will join Champignon Cheese at The ABGB for Bavarian Brotzeit, a happy hour honoring this traditional savory snack of cheese, bread

Elliott Erwitt Elliott Erwitt

Home Around the World

ON VIEW THROUGH JANUARY 1 21st and Guadalupe Streets FREE ADMISSION www.hrc.utexas.edu 512-471-8944

and condiments. Cathy Strange, the global cheese buyer for Whole Foods Market, will discuss a sampling of new cheeses paired with a perfect selection of ABGB beers. The event is free but proceeds from pairing sales go toward The House That Beer Built—a collaboration among Austin breweries and Austin Habitat for Humanity. Visit Edible Austin’s events at facebook or edibleautin.com for details.

TOASTING 10 YEARS OF TEXAS TASTES Come with glasses held high to help the Texas Reds Steak & Grape Festival toast their 10th annual event in historic downtown Bryan. From September 23–25, over 40 wineries and a multitude of craft beer breweries will come together to help fill your glass. You’ll also enjoy live music, food vendors, a steak cook-off and the ever-popular Kids Zone. Additional features include a dinner on Thursday at Messina Hof Winery and Resort to kick off the weekend and a steak and egg brunch as the festival’s finale. Visit texasredsfestival.com for details.

FOUR DAYS OF FUN IN GRUENE We’re forecasting a lot of fun at the 30th annual Gruene Music & Wine Fest—four days and four distinct events from October 6–9. This year, the tradition continues along the banks of the Guadalupe River in New Braunfels with new wine and beer discoveries, silent auctions, Texas food tastings, a gospel brunch buffet and a steady soundtrack of live music. Visit gruenemusicandwinefest.org for tickets and details.

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AUSTIN. WE HAVE LIFTOFF.

AMERICA’S BEST PILSNER IS NOW ON FULL-TIME.

ROCKET 100, winner of the American-Style Pilsener Gold Medal at the 2015 Great American Beer Festival® and the Bronze at the 2016 World Beer CupSM for American-Style Lager, joins the lineup of our Always beers. Come over and enjoy it, y’all.

l u n c h . d i n n e r . M U S I C . 1 3 0 5 w . o l t o r f theabgb. c o m

A CELEBRATION OF ALL THINGS FERMENTED Save the date (and all your summer bounty!) for the Austin Fermentation Festival on Sunday, October 2 at Barr Mansion. From 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., participants can pick from a schedule of 12 workshops—some hands-on this year— that will teach you how to save your harvest stash and turn it into a delicious

FROM

WINE TO DINE Bastrop’s historic downtown is home to unique locally-owned restaurants featuring something for every palate …come be surprised by the tastes of Bastrop!

collection of fermented foods and beverages. The festival will feature a market of fermented products, local chefs preparing dishes filled with fermented ingredients, fizzy drinks and live music. All proceeds benefit the Texas Farmers’ Market Farmer Emergency Fund, which offers financial assistance to Texas Farmers’ Market farmers and ranchers in times of environmental, personal or other crises. Tickets and more information are available online at

512-303-0904

texasfarmersmarket.org/austin-fermentation-festival

Bastropdowntown.com

GREEN CORN PROJECT CELEBRATES COMMUNITY Come give thanks for another year of building beautiful gardens and producing bountiful crops with the Green Corn Project (GCP) on Sunday, October 30, for the 18th annual Fall Festival. The GCP, a volunteer-run, grassroots organization that helps people in need produce their own garden-grown food, invites you to taste your way Get the App BASTROPTX

around Boggy Creek Farm with treats from Austin’s top restaurants as you listen to live music, enjoy chef demos and bid in a silent auction. Visit greencornproject.org for more information and tickets.

A FREDERICKSBURG FESTIVAL TO FILL YOUR PLATE The Marktplatz of historic downtown Fredericksburg is ready to plate up a full-course celebration of Texas food and wine culture on Saturday, October 22 at the Fredericksburg Food & Wine Fest. This year, the event is back with its sensational servings of Texas food, wine, beer, music, specialty booths and fun. But you can really load up your plate by participating in the full weekend, featuring Thursday’s Go Texan! event at Messina Hof, Friday’s celebration at Wildseed Farms, and Saturday’s Patron Party on Market Square along with four chef demos from Grape Expectation Cooking School. Visit fbgfoodandwinefest.com for tickets and full schedule of events.

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WE BRING PEOPLE TOGETHER.

CATERING. EVENT AND TENT RENTALS. FLORALS.

AUSTIN | DRIPPING SPRINGS, TEXAS WHIMHOSPITALITY.COM

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PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): LOFT PHOTOGRAPHY, TWO PAIR PHOTOGRAPHY, LEANDRA BLEI PHOTOGRAPHY, JERRY HAYES PHOTOGRAPHY

PARTY ON THE PRAIRIE TO PRESERVE HISTORY

GRAPEFRUIT FOR GROWN-UPS

on the Prairie, an evening of fundraising, local fare and festivities to benefit the Mary Christian Burleson Foundation in Elgin. Executive Chef Robert Mayberry is already sourcing and canning local foods for the event. The nonprofit’s mission is to preserve the Burleson homestead as a significant place of education about Elgin, its ecology and sustainable agriculture practices and the strength of Texas women like Burleson. Find more information about the event at marychristianburleson.org

BON VOYAGE, EDIBLE ESCAPE WINNERS! Congratulations to the winners of our 2016 Edible Escape Photo Contest. This year’s theme was “What I Eat and Why” and while we were thrilled with all your submissions, three lucky winners were awarded incredible travel packages from our generous sponsors. Grand Prize Winner Kelly Elena Dugan is all set to embark on her New Mexico Retreat with a two-night escape to New Mexico’s Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm in Albuquerque, followed by a night at Ten Thousand Waves Spa in Santa Fe (along with dinner at the extraordinary Izanami restaurant), and then on to explore the wonders of Taos with a two-night stay at the artisan inn, Casa Gallina. The other winners are Julie Rorrer (photo featured on page 5), who will enjoy a two-night stay at the Hotel Saint George in Marfa, dinner at Cochineal and a tour of the Chinati Foundation museum; and Britney Burger, who won the San Antonio Pearl Package, with dinners at Botika and Southerleigh, lunches at Nao Latin Gastro Bar and The Granary, as well as a cooking class for two at CIA and a gift card for shopping in the Pearl District. Stay tuned for more information about the next exciting Edible photo contest at edibleaustin.com.

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COOKS at home

RAY BENSON BY L ES M C G E H E E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

ay Benson has a great kitchen. It’s not fancy, mind

and the bus,” he says. He moves to his large cutting board

you, yet it’s admirably equipped. He also has nine

covered with fresh veggies. “These are the ingreediments…

Grammys—ranging from best instrumentals to best

agreedreadyments,” he jests. “Check ’em out!” Then he gestures

packaging—a regional Emmy, 20-plus albums as leader of the

to the spread as if to suggest a round of applause is in order,

iconic band Asleep at the Wheel, a guiding hand in about

much like he does when he introduces his fellow players in

two dozen singles on the charts and a big ol’ tour bus sittin’

the band.

in the driveway. In addition, his studio—Bismeaux Produc-

When asked what’s one thing that’s kept the Wheel go-

tions—has helped build the careers of popular artists such

ing for so many decades and accomplishing so much, Benson

as Carolyn Wonderland and Dale Watson. Yet, he sure has a

points to perseverance. “I know that sounds cliché,” he says.

great kitchen. “I’ve always liked good cooking stuff,” he says.

“Yet, it’s sure true that life’s too short to let anybody get in

“Since the bus got internet, I buy cooking utensils.” Benson

your way. As a bandleader, I know my job is to give those

uses an impossibly sharp Japanese knife to aerially tick off

people the best setting to show their abilities…where they

items visible out on his porch, “Right there’s my smoker, por-

can become better players.”

table deep fryer, outdoor pizza oven, grill.”

Now Benson’s cooking groove kicks in and the soup’s on.

He effortlessly moves around his kitchen, barefoot, with

Butter and onions go in the pot, then come the chile powder,

a demeanor so warm that his impressive height feels less

cumin and lots of plump sweet corn. “Awww…looka that!”

imposing. And he talks as he cooks—filling the space with

he says. “I use fresh organic corn instead of frozen corn, and

stories and wisdom accumulated from a full life on the road.

I need to remember I don’t need to measure! And here’s a

“I got to play at the White House,” he says. “My picture with

BIG SECRET I never showed another human being.” Benson

Bush is in the laundry room if you want to see it.”

takes the back of his knife and scrapes the corn milk off the

And much of his talk is about recipes—both for food and

naked cobs, then adds the liquid gold to his burgeoning pot.

for experience, and what it’s like when things come together

He stares into the pot like a wide-eyed, hypnotic, pony-tailed

just so. It’s something he calls “soup.” Benson describes the

musical Merlin as a sweet, spicy smell fills the kitchen. Ben-

feeling as knowing when a song, or the band, or dinner, is

son finally reaches for the milk and then the masa harina.

blended just right. “In the studio or the kitchen,” he says, “if

“This masa is one of the things that gives it the right texture

you’ve got a great recipe and great ingredients, then you can

and that kinda tamale hint of flavor.”

tell that it needs a little more salt, a little more pepper, a little more guitar or a little more fiddle.”

Then, with a beaming smile and in a milder version of his showbiz voice, he says, “And here it is…the Vitamix!”

Benson is humorous and is a good storyteller. References

He loads up the blender, punches the button and clasps his

come and go and are sometimes peppered with lyrics from

hands solidly together as it whirrs. He lets the blended soup

songs. “The Anaheim peppers and tomatoes came from my

rest back in the pot as he makes fresh pico de gallo and grates

garden right out there,” he says. Then he quickly launches

cheese. “It’s vegetarian,” he says. “And if you use nut milk

into Guy Clark lyrics: “Only two things money can’t buy…

and skip the cheese, it can be vegan!”

that’s true love and homegrown tomatoes.” Today, he’s fo-

Benson gives it a quick smell then says, “It’s soup! Time to

cused and very calm for a man just hours away from boarding

eat! Bowls are over there. I usually serve it in this,” he says—

his bus to do three dates in Georgia. “This soup is a favorite of

pointing to a beautiful porcelain terrine he found while on

ours that I’ve made many times for Christmas, family dinner

the road. “Yet, it’s nice straight outta this pot.”

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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European

Savory Sweet Crepes

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RAY BENSON’S “IT IS NOW SOUP” CORN SOUP Adapted from “Creative Mexican Cooking—Recipes from Great Texas Chefs” by Anne Lindsay Greer; corn soup recipe from Cafe Cancun Serves 4–6 2 T. cornstarch 6–8 c. whole milk, divided 1½ sticks unsalted butter (do not use margarine) 1 medium-size onion, peeled, chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 2 t. New Mexican chile powder 2 t. ground cumin 1 t. garlic powder ½ t. black pepper 1–1½ t. salt, or to taste 4 c. fresh organic corn kernels (approximately 6–8 cobs) ½ c. masa harina 3–4 chopped green chilies (mild or hot) Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish Grated cheddar cheese, for serving Hot sauce and/or pico de gallo, for serving Tortilla chips, for serving

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Dissolve the cornstarch in 1 cup of the milk and set aside. Heat the butter in a large saucepan or soup pot and sauté the onion and garlic until soft and translucent—about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the spices and stir to blend. Cut the corn off the cobs, then run the back of a knife down the cobs to extract the milk. Add the corn and corn milk to the pot to warm, then carefully transfer the mix to a blender or food processor. While the machine is running, add the reserved cup of dissolved cornstarch and milk. Return the mixture to the pot over medium heat and add the masa harina and remaining milk—stirring occasionally. Once the soup is heated through, add the green chilies and continue to cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust the salt, if necessary. To serve, pour the hot soup into ovenproof serving bowls. Top with grated cheese and heat in the oven just long enough to melt the cheese—do not brown. Top with hot sauce and/or pico de gallo, if desired, and serve with tortilla chips.

No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.

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COOKS at home

WENDY DAVIS BY K A R I A N N E ROY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

alking into former Texas State Senator Wendy Davis’

dear friend Patti back when they were law students together.

kitchen is like walking into light—wide windows,

“Patti had an apartment when the rest of us were in dorms,”

her breathtakingly brilliant smile…it’s a moment

she explains. Patti loved to cook and would make her famous

to savor. And watching her carefully mince garlic, it’s clear

pasta for friends—teaching them secrets of the kitchen. “She

that savoring is something in which she rejoices. Today,

taught me how to feel comfortable in the kitchen. She helped

she’s making what she calls “Patti Pasta,” a beloved version

me learn to love cooking.”

of penne with vodka cream sauce. It’s accompanied by bruschetta and, lucky for me, effortless, engaging conversation. Davis’ ease in the kitchen—her quiet chuckles, her soft

moment. “I would love for ‘Patti Pasta’ to come full circle

graceful moves—imparts a modest air that belies the pur-

one day,” she says with a laugh. “Someone will serve it to

poseful, crackling current that carries us through the after-

[Patti], call it ‘Patti Pasta’ and say, ‘I don’t know where the

noon. From food prep to storytelling, cooking to cleaning up,

name comes from, but it sure is good!’” As Davis bemoans

she isn’t just immersed in any given moment; she comes at it

her stubborn electric stove, she still manages to sauté the

honed and focused from every angle possible—a quality that’s

garlic just right. “I like to cook for people,” she says. “To me,

reminiscent of her 2013 marathon 11-hour filibuster to protect

that’s what it’s all about.”

women’s reproductive rights that made her a household name

Davis drifts to childhood memories of her maternal grand-

in Texas and briefly put neon running shoes, a back brace and

mother, and it’s easy to see that the celebration of food and good

a catheter into the political discourse. “The most important

company was something she learned at an early age. “When my

part of the filibuster was the fact that I didn’t conduct it alone,”

parents got divorced,” she says, “I was around ten years old. I

she says. “Thousands of people decided that women’s repro-

would spend most of the summer with my grandmother, and

ductive freedoms were important enough to make a pilgrim-

just watching her and her comfort and ease in the kitchen was

age to the Texas Capitol and be a part of ‘pushing back’ against

really fun. Most of the things she cooked were classic southern

the intrusions of that bill. And it was their voices, of course,

dishes…the best fried chicken you ever tasted! She had fourteen

that successfully pushed that bill past the midnight deadline.

children, and she and my grandfather were tenant farmers most

And I hope that our success in overturning that law restores

of their lives. She was one of those people who could whip up a

our belief in the power of standing up and fighting, even in the

meal for a crowd in forty-five minutes.” Making the effort to preserve this feeling of connectivity

face of long odds.”

After admitting she’s altered the recipe just a little bit (“I add extra garlic”), Davis smiles, lost in memory for just a

Davis’ love of, and commitment to, public service is obvi-

around meals was important to Davis as her daughters were

ous and palpable, and as she readies the pasta for the boiling

growing up. There was no TV at the table then or now. “These

water, politics continues to pepper a conversation already

moments of being together are rare in the life of a busy fami-

lively with college days and motherhood, cooking tactics and

ly,” she says. “You have to protect them when you can. I don’t

favorite restaurants. “John Lewis is the greatest human being

like having the television on in the background…I’m probably

alive. Don’t you think?” she says with a large grin—referring

rare as far as politicians go. I don’t want to keep the news

to the recent Democratic sit-in in the U.S. House of Repre-

channels on all the time.” A quick glance around the open

sentatives to address gun control.

room—kitchen, dining, living room all in one space—shows

And now the pasta has dropped and Davis turns her atten-

that there’s a noticeable absence of electronic media of any

tion to the food she’s preparing. “Patti Pasta” is a recipe that’s

kind. The only screens in this room are on the windows over-

been in her culinary repertoire since her pre-public-service

looking majestic Lady Bird Lake.

days in law school. “I make it all the time,” she says. “My

Davis pops thick pieces of bread under the broiler for

daughters make it, too.” It’s a recipe Davis learned from her

a quick toast and then rubs garlic on the bread—another

COOKS 2016

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trick learned from Patti. The vodka is added to the sauce at the

shop in Boston,” she says. And while she firmly cradles each bowl

last minute, the pasta is drained and sauced and the meal is

and begins to serve, one can’t help but see a parallel. Bright and

complete. Beautiful, multicolored bowls from Deruta, Italy, are

cheery, complex and substantive, the bowls are a bit like Davis

brought out. These bowls hold special meaning because they,

herself—encapsulating the perfect way to best hold and savor this

too, have a link to Patti. “These bowls are from Patti’s pottery

exact moment, right now. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2016

WENDY DAVIS’ “PATTI PASTA” Serves 4 1–2 T. olive oil 4 garlic cloves, peeled, chopped 2 28-oz. cans whole, peeled San Marzano tomatoes 2 t. red pepper flakes

1 lb. penne rigate /³ c. heavy cream 2 T. vodka Salt, to taste Flat-leaf parsley Shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano

Sauté the garlic in the olive oil over medium heat until it releases its aroma. Add the tomatoes, a small amount of their juice and the red pepper flakes to the garlic and simmer over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes (break apart the tomatoes with a wooden spoon as they soften and break down). Meanwhile, when the sauce is close to finishing, boil the pasta in well-salted water according to package directions to just barely al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the sauce mixture. Cook for 1 minute, then add the heavy cream. Cook for another minute, then add the vodka. Cook for 30 seconds more, then serve in pasta bowls and top with parsley and shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve with tomato-basil brushetta (recipe below).

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Serves 4 4–6 Roma tomatoes 2 garlic cloves, minced Large handful fresh basil leaves, torn 3 T. olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste 1 whole garlic clove, cut in half lengthwise 4 large slices crusty French bread 4 T. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Core and chop the tomatoes and place in a bowl. Add the minced garlic, basil, olive oil and salt and pepper to the bowl, mix well and set aside. Meanwhile, toast the bread under the broiler until lightly browned on both sides, then rub both sides of each slice with the garlic halves. Top each piece of bread with a healthy mound of the tomato mixture, sprinkle each with Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve warm.

“You want something in your family that shows your kids who their parents are and what hard work means.”

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COOKS at home

GRAE NONAS AND CHIAI MATSUMOTO BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

eyond what he would find knocking around in a box

tween these formative memories lies a move to New Hamp-

of take-out chicken, Grae Nonas hadn’t tasted an

shire while still a youngster, a bunch of jobs in restaurant

honest-to-goodness Southern biscuit until his early

kitchens starting at the illegal age of 12, a band that nearly

days at the restaurant Olamaie. Yet, as the former co-execu-

took off after high school, a short-lived attempt at higher ed-

tive chef for the eatery, Nonas helped create one so tasty that

ucation in New Jersey (“I flunked out of community college…

Olamaie still doesn’t list it on the menu for fear of running

which I didn’t know you could do”) and an unauthorized ex-

out. “I didn’t grow up eating Southern food,” says the Yankee.

ternship at Osteria di Passignano in Tuscany. “It wasn’t on

“To create something you don’t know anything about…is hard

[The Culinary Institute’s] list of restaurants, but I went any-

to do.” Given what Nonas accomplished with practically no

way,” he says.

prior knowledge of making biscuits or any other Southern

After various restaurant gigs in New York, Nonas moved to

cuisine, chances are good that his newest restaurant project,

Los Angeles and got in with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo soon

Aya—one that feels familiar to his hand and heart—will be

after they hit it big with Animal. Six months later, they tapped

worth the wait.

Nonas for their spin-off, Son of a Gun, where he and co-work-

Nonas plans to open Aya late next year, but on this par-

er Michael Fojtasek bonded over old Southern cookbooks.

ticular hot Sunday he’s puttering around the kitchen of his

That led to their Austin relocation in 2014 to launch Olamaie,

North Austin home with the Talking Heads playing from his

where local fans quickly fell in love with that aforementioned

laptop and his 1-year-old daughter dangling from his arm.

biscuit and the mix of tradition and modernity. Nonlocals no-

Not by coincidence, her name is Aya, too. “We want her to

ticed, too; Food & Wine Magazine named Nonas and Fojtasek

be part of this,” he says. “You want something in your family

among the Best New Chefs of 2015, while the James Beard

that shows your kids who their parents are and what hard

Foundation recognized Nonas as a “Rising Star Chef ” semifi-

work means.” Nonas and his wife/business partner, Chiai

nalist in 2015 and as a finalist in 2016. In the midst of the chaos

Matsumoto, envision Aya (the restaurant) as a lively, fish-fo-

of work and recognition, Nonas met Matsumoto at a shoot for

cused eatery with a choose-your-own-adventure vibe to ac-

Vice’s Munchies website while she was doing marketing for

commodate hardcore foodies as easily as folks just there for

Ramen Tatsu-ya. They’ve been together ever since.

the tiki drinks. It will eschew the usual nautical nonsense

Despite the long résumé and accolades, 28-year-old Nonas

and Cape Cod pretension of so many seafood joints, though.

says the new restaurant will, in a way, mark the true start of

Instead of pirate kitsch on the walls, “it’ll be the kind of

his career. Using a lid to burst tomatoes sizzling in a pan, he

place where pirates would actually hang out,” says Nonas,

reaches for a way to explain what he means, until Matsumoto

as he hands Aya (the girl) to Matsumoto so that he can coax

jumps in. “It’s your chance to express yourself,” says Aya’s

some flattened rye dough into noodles through the strings

future marketing director. “You should just talk to her,” says

of an old wooden Italian pasta cutter known as a chitarra.

Nonas with a smile. “She’s the one with the words.”

The new restaurant’s menu will feature simple but nu-

Nonas throws together the other ingredients and slips

anced meals like the one he’s making now: spaghetti alla

baby Aya a cooked noodle that she eats with relish. Soon

chitarra with gulf prawns, Sun Gold tomatoes, grilled scal-

after, she passes out on Matsumoto’s shoulder, which

lions and rye crumbs. The dish reminds Nonas of the Ital-

prompts Nonas to get philosophical about the other Aya

ian restaurants his grandfather took him to as a young kid

in their lives. “Until now, everything’s been under a guide-

in Manhattan. It also calls to mind one of his mentors, Andy

line,” he says. “This is first time I can be exactly who I am

Nusser, for whom Nonas worked at New York’s Tarry Lodge

on a plate. I love Olamaie, but I want to be able to play my

soon after attending the Culinary Institute of America. In be-

music really loud.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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GRAE NONAS’ “ME ON A PLATE” SPAGHETTI ALLA CHITARRA Serves 4 For the pasta dough: 17 oz. all-purpose flour 2½ oz. rye flour, plus more for sprinkling ½ oz. semolina, plus more for sprinkling 2 whole eggs 13 egg yolks 1 T. water Combine the dry ingredients together and mix. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, incorporate and knead for about 8 minutes. When the dough is bound together, cover with plastic wrap and let rest for about a half hour. Afterward, flatten the dough (preferably with a machine, but a rolling pin will work) until you can just see your hand through the dough. Sprinkle the dough with additional rye flour and semolina, then cut the noodles with a chitarra, pasta cutter or knife and set aside. For the Sun Gold tomato and prawn sauce: Handful whole scallions 5 T. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 pt. Sun Gold tomatoes 4 garlic cloves, sliced thin ¼ c. fine-cut fresh scallions 1 t. chili flakes ¼ c. white wine ½ lb. gulf prawns, shelled, deveined and cut in half 2 oz. butter 2 slices toasted rye bread, crumbed Dress the whole scallions with a bit of the olive oil, grill until just cooked but not wilted and set aside. Fill a large pot with water, season with salt until it tastes like the sea and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes start to burst. Lower the heat and add the garlic, fresh scallions and chili flakes. Cook for a few minutes, then deglaze the pan with the wine. Add about ¼ cup of the boiling salted water to the pan and adjust the salt, if necessary. Meanwhile, toast the rye bread slices and set aside. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook for about 2½ minutes. While the pasta cooks, add the prawns, butter and grilled scallions to the pan. When the prawns are almost cooked through (about 5 to 7 minutes), add the pasta to the pan and finish with the remaining olive oil. Divide the pasta into 4 bowls or plates and top each with toasted rye crumbs.

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HIS AND HIS MUST-HAVE KITCHEN TOOLS BY A N T H O N Y SO B OT I K A N D C H A D PA L M AT I E R , O F L I C K H O N EST I C E C R E A M S

am definitely the one who does the vast majority of the cooking and all the baking in our household—and that’s just fine by me, as I’ve always enjoyed my time in the kitchen. When Chad does cook, it’s usually when we prepare brunch together on Saturday mornings. Brunch is, hands down, our favorite meal, and it’s the one meal we compose together almost every weekend. I typically do most of the heavy lifting while Chad makes coffee and

prepares beverages. There is one exception to that general rule: Chad makes excellent scrambled eggs and has recently become quite the expert egg poacher. I’m not complaining one bit! He uses his grandmother’s decades-old egg poacher and the results are perfect every time. So, although our hearts are in the crafting of artisan ice creams, we decided it’d be appropriate for us to share our list of go-to tools for brunch. —Anthony Sobotik

ANTHONY’S

WAGNER’S 1891 ORIGINAL CAST IRON SKILLET.

This is one of my absolute favorite items to work with in the kitchen. You just can’t beat biscuits and pancakes baked in a cast-iron skillet. The simple act of browning butter to add to recipes such as baked pancakes can’t be replicated in any other skillet. I have two of these vintage skillets, both given to me by my mother many years ago.

OXO PASTRY BLENDER. It’s hard to imagine our weekends without freshly baked biscuits, and that’s primarily what I use my pastry blender for when preparing brunch. I look forward all week to not only the sweet reward of eating the biscuits, but the equally satisfying process of preparing them. Each and every time I make them, I think of my Granny Hazel, who used to make them by the dozens for my cousins and me.

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KUHN RIKON 12-INCH BALLOON WIRE WHISK.

This tool brings so much to the brunch table. Just think about it—scrambled eggs, whipped cream, griddle cakes and pancakes all benefit from this simple contraption. What would brunch be without this useful tool? I shudder to imagine such a world. It’s a great go-to whisk that does a nice job for various purposes.

LARGE STAINLESS-STEEL BOWL. This might

seem like an obvious item for any kitchen, but you’d be surprised by how many people don’t have a large stainless-steel bowl in their kitchen arsenal. This piece makes the preparation of biscuits, pancakes, whipped cream, quiche and frittatas a breeze. Having a large enough bowl also makes cleanup much easier because there’s less spillage. You can find these bowls at almost every big-box store, but I recommend checking out your local restaurant supply store for the best selection.

CHAD’S

DEMEYERE STAINLESS-STEEL EGG-POACHING PAN.

As Anthony already mentioned, I’ve discovered I possess the skill of poaching eggs. I inherited my grandma’s egg poacher when she passed away almost 12 years ago. It sat in storage for years until Anthony discovered it this past spring and brought it home. The poaching pan by Demeyere is very similar to Grandma’s pan and it makes perfectly poached eggs every time.

ZYLISS ALL CHEESE GRATER. Cheese-grating is another task I’m regularly assigned when I help in the kitchen. With brunch, there are plenty of dishes that benefit from freshly grated cheese. For example, I always grate fresh Parmesan into my scrambled eggs. Anthony swears he’d never experienced scrambled eggs like this before he met me—but now he insists on making them my way.

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WILLIAMS-SONOMA OPEN KITCHEN COCKTAIL SPOON. I love a good bloody mary for brunch, much more than Anthony, actually—he’s more of a screwdriver guy. While Anthony prepares the bulk of the meal, I’m mixing up the libations. One of my favorite tools for making my bloody mary, as well as other cocktails, is a cocktail spoon. It might seem like an unnecessary utensil, but it’s far superior to using a regular spoon. The slenderness and length of a cocktail spoon allow you to fully incorporate all the components in your glass. Also, you don’t run the risk of getting your fingers in your drink!

OXO GOOD GRIPS SILICONE FLEXIBLE TURNER. Anthony might prepare all of the batters, but

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I sometimes get to do the flipping. This tool is perfect for that, and it comes in handy when I make scrambled eggs. Although not a spatula, the width of the turner does a nice job pulling the egg from the pan, and the flexible silicone helps remove the egg from the sides.

CHAD PALMATIER’S “NO FINGERS IN YOUR DRINK!” BLOODY MARY Adapted from Tipsy Texan Makes 1 1 fresh chile pequin pepper ½ t. prepared horseradish 4 oz. tomato juice 2 oz. vodka ½ oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ oz. Worcestershire sauce Dash Tabasco sauce

1 oz. beef consommé ¼ t. Sriracha Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Pinch celery salt Lemon wedge, for garnish Celery stick (with leaves), for garnish

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In the bottom of a mixing glass, muddle the chile pequin pepper with the horseradish. Add all the remaining ingredients except the lemon wedge and celery stick, and stir together with a cocktail spoon. Fill another glass with ice and pour the mixture over the ice. Garnish with the lemon wedge and celery stick.

GRANNY HAZEL’S UNBEATABLE BISCUITS Makes 4 large biscuits

Photography by Annie Ray

1 c. flour 2 t. baking powder ¼ t. salt

6 T. cold unsalted butter, divided /³ c. half and half

Heat the oven to 430°. Mix together the flour, baking powder and salt in a large stainless-steel bowl. Cut 4 tablespoons of the butter into pats and incorporate into the flour mixture with a pastry blender until the mixture has a crumb-like consistency. Make a well in the mixture and add the half and half. Mix all the ingredients together until fully incorporated and the dough sticks to a spoon. Prepare a floured surface and place the dough on it. Sprinkle a bit of flour on the top of the dough and fold the dough over itself 3 to 4 times. Form a ball and flatten it with your hands to a ½-inch thickness. Place the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a castiron skillet and melt it over low heat for about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Use a large biscuit cutter to cut out the biscuits. Dab each biscuit in the melted butter, then turn over so the buttered side is up. Place the biscuits about ¼-inch apart in the skillet and bake for 20 minutes.

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cooking BASICS

CURRY BY A N I TA JA I S I N G H A N I

any don’t realize that curry is neither a specific spice

an unfamiliar Indian approach to food, but also an actual dish.

blend nor a dish in its own right. In the 17th centu-

So when the British were leaving India after the colonization,

ry, when the British occupied India, they fell in love

imaginative Indian spice merchants created a blend of four or

with the local food. In an attempt to navigate the complexi-

five basic but well-used spices—such as turmeric, coriander,

ties of regional Indian preparations, they anglicized the South

cumin and chili—and sold it to the Brits as they left. Thus was

Indian Tamil word “kari” into “curry.” Kari (or curry) simply

born the now-ubiquitous curry powder found on store shelves.

means sauce with spices in it. The term was then used to de-

But the British weren’t complaining! They happily lapped it

scribe any and all of the myriad broths, soups or preparations

up, and Indian food continues to be wildly popular in England.

Indians made with butter, nuts, vegetables and a multitude of

In the broad sense, all of the dishes I am about to describe

spices. To the British, curry was not only a term that described

could be considered curries; however, they are all completely

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different in appearance, color, consistency, texture and taste. Depending on the region and its language, there are specific names for broths, braises and stews. Also, depending on the spices and other ingredients used, the color could be white, red, brown or yellow. In Gujarat, the mostly vegetarian state where I grew up, kadhi (pronounced “kadhee”) is a mild, fragrant yogurt broth with notes of ginger and cloves and slightly sweetened with jaggery, an unrefined and non-distilled sugar made from dates, cane juice or palm sap. In Punjab, that same kadhi, with the addition of turmeric, is a vibrant yellow, includes onions and chickpea fritters called pakoras and is topped off with hot chili oil. In Sindh, sayel refers to a cardamom-scented rustic preparation of meat or vegetables cooked with chopped onions, tomatoes and ginger. In Goa, vindaloo is a very dark, almost chocolate-colored, hot and spicy stew redolent of clove, cumin and cardamom. In northern India, a korma is a fragrant, creamy, nut-based preparation of meats or vegetables with notes of cinnamon and cloves. In southern India, a saucy preparation of vegetables is called a kolambu; varatha is a dry sauté; sambhar and rasam are light tomato, lentil and kari leaf-scented soups; and kootu is a

LAMB KEEMA Serves 3–4 4 T. ghee, divided ¼ c. sliced onions 2 T. minced garlic 1 lb. ground lamb 1 t. chili powder 1 t. turmeric 1 t. ground cumin 1 t. coriander 1½ t. salt 2 T. grated fresh ginger ½ c. whole-milk yogurt ¼ c. tomato puree 1 T. dried fenugreek leaves, dried 1 t. garam masala Chopped mint, for garnish Toasted almonds, for garnish

lentil and vegetable stew. Macher jhol is a soupy, pungent Bengali fish from Eastern India with mustard, black cumin and ginger. And dal—essentially a lentil broth or stew—has hundreds of iterations based on region, family preferences and seasonality. Every state in India has their own staple dal and every family makes their own rendition of those staples. Given that there are about 40-plus lentils used throughout India, dal combinations are simply endless! When we Indians travel, we take our food culture with us. During the 16th and 17th centuries, when Indian spice merchants traveled to Malaysia, spices combined well with the local flavorings of lemongrass and coconut milk. In Indonesia, stews were made with kaffir leaves and galangal. Migrating Indian laborers have also spread Indian food around the globe very effectively. Curries are the norm

Heat 1 tablespoon of the ghee in a small pan. Add the onions and cook over medium heat until browned and caramelized. Set aside. In a heavy-bottomed stockpot, heat the rest of the ghee over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the minced garlic and cook for a few seconds. Add the ground lamb and fry over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes—stirring frequently until almost all of the pink of the meat is gone. Add the chili powder, turmeric, cumin, coriander and salt. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, for about 2 to 3 minutes. Lower the heat if the spices appear to burn. Add the caramelized onions, ginger, yogurt and tomato puree. Cover the keema and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. The mixture should have a fairly thick, slightly saucy consistency. Add the fenugreek and the garam masala. Remove from the heat and allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before garnishing and serving.

in Fiji, Guyana, Trinidad and other Pacific islands. Even in South Africa, roti wraps and bread bowls filled with chicken and tomatoes spiked with cumin are sold at street corners. Surprisingly, one country where curry may occupy a position of national importance almost equal to the place of Indian food in Britain is Japan, which has no colonial connection with India. The Japanese love their curry— many train stations and malls in Japan have stalls selling curried rice, noodles and bread. Unrecognizable in India, Japanese curry is made with pre-prepared brown blocks of curry roux (flour and fat tinged with spices), and has been adopted as a warm, sustaining comfort food untouched by ceremony. As an Indian who was born and raised in India, I can safely say that we almost never use the word “curry,” nor do we use prepared curry powder in our homes. I confess that in an attempt to bridge the gap, I have used, and continue to use, the word on my restaurant menus. Yet, this broad categorization misses the subtle variations and nuances of each preparation, and the strong sense among us Indians about local and almost minute differences in food. We may use 10 to 12 spices in one dish, but they are all added individually and at different times in the preparation. They may be used whole or ground, toasted and crushed, or just popped in oil to release flavor. It’s the magic of these spices and the unique combinations that give so-called “curry” the tremendous appeal it has in today’s food culture.

SINDHI DAL Serves 3–4 1 c. moong dal (mung beans) 3 c. water 1 t. turmeric 2 T. grated fresh ginger 1 t. salt Cumin powder, cracked coriander, black pepper and amchur (dried green mango powder), for serving 2 T. melted ghee, for serving Rinse the mung beans in several changes of warm water. Soak them in warm water for 1 to 2 hours. Drain and set aside. In a deep stockpot, bring the beans, water, turmeric, ginger and salt to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour or until the beans are tender. Turn the heat off until ready to serve. Just before serving, generously sprinkle the cumin, coriander, black pepper and amchur evenly on top of the dal. Pour the ghee over the spices and serve immediately. Variations: • Add grated carrots or squash to the dal before cooking. •Add chopped fresh spinach to the dal just before the end of cooking. • Add chili powder to the sprinkling masalas to kick it up a notch. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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SAYEL CHICKEN Serves 3–4 1 3–3 ½ lb. whole chicken, cut into pieces 1 t. turmeric 1 T. grated fresh ginger 4 c. finely chopped onion 4 T. ghee 2 t. minced garlic 2 t. salt 1 t. chili powder 2 c. chopped fresh tomatoes 1 t. garam masala ½ bunch cilantro, chopped Remove the skin and excess fat from the chicken and cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces (you could use boneless chicken for ease of preparation, but use dark meat only if using boneless). Wash the chicken pieces in warm water and pat dry. In a wide, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the chicken, turmeric, ginger, onions, ghee and garlic. Cook over high heat for 5 minutes or until the onions begin to sweat. Turn down the heat to medium, put the lid on the chicken and continue to cook for another 10 to 15 minutes— stirring every 5 minutes. Take the lid off, turn the heat back to high and continue cooking the chicken until the liquid is almost gone. Add the salt, chili powder, chopped tomatoes, garam masala and cilantro and turn off the heat. Let the chicken rest, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

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KERALA GREEN BEANS I love South Indian food, and I particularly love the way the flavors of coconut, mustard and kari leaves mesh. I am also a fanatic about color and texture, so it’s important that the green beans remain crisp and bright green. (If the beans do wilt, they’ll still taste good.) This recipe can be prepared using Chinese long beans, haricots verts or standard green beans. Serves 3–4

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1½ lb. green beans 3 T. coconut oil 1 t. black mustard seeds Kari leaves chopped from 2–4 stalks (can substitute 2 lemongrass stalks) 1 t. minced garlic 1 serrano pepper, chopped fine 1 t. black pepper 1 t. salt 1 /³ c. packed grated fresh coconut (can substitute frozen coconut) 1 lemon 1 T. toasted sesame seeds Without trimming the ends of the beans, slice each bean diagonally into two. Heat the coconut oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the mustard seeds and kari leaves (if using lemongrass, remove the tough outer stalk, bruise the tender inside stalk and chop small) and cook until the seeds pop. Add the garlic and cook for a few seconds until it is opaque. Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the green beans, serrano, black pepper and salt. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until the beans are tender but still bright green. Remove from the heat and stir in the grated coconut. Just before serving, squeeze the juice of the lemon over the beans and sprinkle on the sesame seeds.

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cooking BASICS

INFUSING WITH EXTRACTS BY K A R E N L E E

y garden is producing the most abundant aromas with basil, oregano and mint taking over whole rows. I live alone and don’t cook as often as I’d like,

but these restorative beauties can’t just go to the compost! What to do? The ways to preserve plant flavors are as varied as traditions in cuisine. Alcohol, vinegar and oil are the time-honored vehicles for preserving foods, because they are all inhospitable to the growth of bacteria—as long as cleanliness and temperature are kept in mind (and thus the reason that simple

When my oregano begged for attention, I packed a jar full

refrigeration or freezing is usually the first option for preser-

of crushed, fresh oregano leaves, filled in the spaces with Tito’s

vation). The right choice to get the most from your abundance

Vodka, shook it several times every day for a week then re-

depends on what you plan to do with the preserved flavors and

moved the leaves. The resulting extract smelled heavenly,

aromas. If you’re planning to make pesto all year, for example,

so I made a tomato-oregano sorbet. This alcohol extraction

you’ll probably want to freeze fresh basil in an oil suspension.

method is good for any fresh herb, fruit or spice, from mint

And if you’re going to make mojitos, then perhaps you want to

to vanilla beans.

try an alcohol extraction for the lime.

arsenal. A week after I made the oregano-infused oil, I had

ized categories of perception: saltiness, acidity, sweetness,

more oregano, more mint and more basil to use. I removed

bitterness and umami, as well as two enhancer-type recep-

the leaves from the stems, blanched the leaves in separate

tors for MSG and fats. To preserve a flavor, think about the

batches (though I used the same boiling water) for 30 sec-

delivery mechanism and where the flavor will register. If you

onds each, removed the now-vivid greens to a strainer in an

can multiply the channels of distribution, the overall effect

ice bath to stop the cooking process then pureed the indi-

will be increased. For example, I make an orange-infused ol-

vidual leaf batches with some great Texas olive oil in a small

ive oil by extracting the oil of the orange rind and infusing

food processor. I put the different mashes into the compart-

it into olive oil. I also make a white balsamic vinegar infused

ments of an ice-cube tray and threw it in the freezer to use

with orange. Either component, oil or balsamic vinegar, de-

for future recipes. When I was finished, I had an incredibly

livers a delicious orange aroma and flavor, but when they are

aromatic pot of herb-infused water, which I couldn’t let go to

combined—as in a dressing for salad, for example—many

waste! I made a pot of farro using the herbed water instead

more taste buds get involved and the perception of “orange-

of plain water. It was transcendental, served up with seared

ness” increases dramatically.

okra from the same garden.

Alcohol extraction is also easy and very rewarding. 36

And then there’s infused water to add to your culinary

The human tongue has taste receptors that have special-

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Try some of the following easy infusions using extracts.

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ORANGE-INFUSED WHITE BALSAMIC VINEGAR

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Makes 1 16-oz. bottle 1 small organic orange 1 16-oz. bottle white balsamic vinegar

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Wash the orange well, then use a vegetable peeler to zest the orange into large strips (avoid the pith and reserve the flesh and juice for another purpose). Blanch the strips in boiling water for 30 seconds, strain in a colander, rinse briefly with cool water and gently wring dry. Place the strips in a blender, add the bottle of vinegar (reserve the bottle) and blend for 20 to 30 seconds. Pour the mixture into a wide-mouthed glass jar with a screwtop lid and place the jar somewhere dark and cool for 4 days. After 4 days, place a large funnel into the reserved vinegar bottle, line the funnel with a coffee filter and slowly pour the mixture from the jar to the bottle. Cap the bottle and place in the refrigerator. Vinegar will keep for months.

ORANGE-INFUSED OLIVE OIL Makes about 1 cup For optimal taste-swooning, combine with the orange-infused vinegar and toss with greens. Or drizzle the oil on a watermelon salad with crumbled feta and black pepper. 5 lb. organic oranges (or substitute other citrus, about 5 cups cut up) 1 c. high-quality olive oil 1 c. water

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Cut the oranges into 1-inch chunks and place into a food processor. Add the oil and water and pulse until the chunks are gone and you have a slurry of fruity/oily water (it’s okay to add a little more oil and water if needed to get a slurry). Let the mixture rest in the food processor and pulse again every 5 minutes for an hour to loosen the flavor and break up the molecules. Pour the entire mixture into a glass pitcher or large jar and let stand until the mixture separates into 3 sections: The oil will rise to the top, the solids will sink to the bottom and the water will be in between. Gently place the pitcher into the refrigerator and chill until the oil solidifies and can be easily removed by breaking it and lifting it out. Put the oil in an airtight container and store, unrefrigerated, in a cool, dark place for up to 3 weeks. The rest of the liquid can be strained through a coffee filter-lined mesh strainer and used to replace the water when cooking grains.

LEMON-INFUSED VODKA Makes 1 750-ml. bottle 1 large organic lemon 1 750-ml. bottle of vodka Wash the lemon well, then use a vegetable peeler to zest the lemon into large strips (avoid the pith and reserve the flesh and juice for another purpose). Blanch the strips in boiling water for 30 seconds, strain in a colander, rinse briefly with cool water and gently wring dry. Place the strips in a blender, add the bottle of vodka (reserve the bottle) and blend for 20 to 30 seconds. Pour the mixture into a wide-mouthed glass jar with a screw-top lid and place the jar somewhere dark and cool for 4 days. After 4 days, place a large funnel into the reserved vodka bottle, line the funnel with a coffee filter and slowly pour the mixture from the jar to the bottle. Cap the bottle and enjoy. Vodka will keep for months.

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cooking BASICS

BEANS BY I L I A N A D E L A V EG A A N D I SA B E L TO R R E A L BA • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T

ften, the simplest foods, such as rice and beans, are

be ready to cook. After the soak, simply drain the beans, place

the ones that daunt us—many people end up buying

them in a pot (preferably a clay one), add water, onion and

them either precooked or canned, respectively. To be

garlic and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer

fair, preparing rice can be tricky, but beans are a snap, as long

and cook for about an hour and 20 minutes. Remove from the

as you think ahead. And I’m here to let you in on the secrets

heat and discard the onion and garlic. Add salt, to taste, and

to perfectly cooked beans, no matter their form or purpose.

enjoy this comforting classic, which in Mexico we call frijoles de

The first thing is making sure the dried beans are clean of

la olla (pot-cooked beans). These beans are whole, but some

stones or debris. Then, if you want a simple and traditional

will break and others will dissolve completely, giving the dish

plate of whole beans (perhaps my favorite), the key is to soak

a thick consistency.

the beans ahead of time with plenty of water. I usually soak

For truly whole beans that retain their firmness and body,

mine for eight hours, which is great because you can set it up

soak them in salted water (one tablespoon for every pound of

right before going to bed and by the time you wake up, they’ll

beans) also for about eight hours. Afterward, rinse the beans

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completely and cook them in fresh water. The cooking process will be the same as for the frijoles de la olla—about one hour and 20 minutes for smaller beans such as pinto and black. The cooking time for larger beans will be longer. Check the package directions. Because of the firmness that this method gives to any type of bean—from black beans to black-eyed peas—these beans are ideal in a salad. For baked beans that remain whole and firm, soak the beans in unsalted water for eight or more hours. Strain the beans but reserve the soaking liquid, which you will bring to a boil by itself. Place the beans in an ovenproof baking dish, cover with the boiling reserved water and add some salt and any seasonings you like. Cover, but leave the lid slightly ajar and bake at 200° for approximately four and a half hours. Though preparing beans is simple enough, sometimes there’s no time for the eight-hour soak. Luckily, there’s a faster option: Place the beans in a pot with onion and garlic, add enough water

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to cover the beans and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let sit for one hour. Return the pot to the stove and, once the liquid boils for the second time, lower the heat. Simmer until ready— about an hour and 45 minutes. To personalize and flavor the beans, try adding herbs and aromatics. In Mexico, for example, we add epazote—a light and flavor-

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the body digest the beans more easily (i.e., it helps relieve gas). In Oaxaca, we add some dried avocado leaves, which give the beans

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Beans don’t have to be relegated to a side dish. Try a hearty main course of bean soup, comforting and filling on its own, made with either black beans or pinto beans. Below are our recipes for frijoles de la olla, which we serve for brunch at Restaurant El Naranjo, and frijoles puercos (dirty beans or pork beans), which can be served as a one-plate meal. The recipe after that is one of my, and many of our customers’, all-time favorites: black bean soup from Oaxaca. Now that you know the secrets to cooking great beans, they no

DON’T JUST COOK,

TRANSFORM YOUR FOOD. YOUR HEALTH. YOUR LIFE.

longer seem so intimidating, do they?

FRIJOLES DE LA OLLA Makes 10 cups 4 c. dried black or pinto beans 2 T. canola oil or lard ½ white onion, peeled, left in one piece 2 garlic cloves, peeled, whole Salt, to taste Pick through the beans to remove any dirt or stones. Place the beans in a large colander and rinse well. Cover with 12 cups of water and let the beans soak overnight. Drain the beans and place in a stockpot or large clay olla. Add the oil, onion and garlic, and 10 cups of water. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 1½ to 2 hours. When the beans are fully cooked, discard the onion and garlic and season with salt, to taste. Fast-track method: To avoid the overnight soaking, follow the steps above but instead of soaking, bring the beans to a boil and turn off the heat. Let the beans rest for 1 hour, then continue cooking over medium-low heat for about 1½ to 2 hours.

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FRIJOLES PUERCOS Serves 8 1 lb. pinto beans ½ white onion, peeled, left in one piece 2 garlic cloves, peeled, whole ¼ c. lard ¼ lb. bacon, diced small ¼ lb. Mexican chorizo, crumbled or diced ½ white onion, diced ¼ lb. Chihuahua or asadero cheese, grated 2–4 pickled jalapeño slices 10 green olives, diced Salt, to taste

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Soak the beans overnight. Drain the beans, cover them with water, add the ½ onion and garlic cloves and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until cooked through, about 1½ to 2 hours. Discard the onion and garlic and set aside to cool. Once the beans are cool enough, transfer them to a blender. Puree the beans using the cooking liquid as needed until smooth, then set aside. Heat the lard in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Sauté the bacon and the chorizo in the lard until crispy. Remove about 1/³ of the lard/oil and discard. Add the diced onion to the pot and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the pureed beans—stirring constantly to prevent them from sticking. When the mixture starts to boil, add the cheese and the jalapeños. Add the olives and salt, to taste. Serve hot.

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Julienne the tortillas. Heat ½ cup of the oil in a sauté pan, and when sizzling hot, add the tortillas in batches—removing with a slotted spoon when crispy and slightly golden. In a stockpot, heat the remaining oil, add the onion and garlic and sauté until soft and golden. Remove from the heat and discard the onion and garlic—reserving the flavored oil. Place the avocado leaves in a small skillet and heat until fragrant. Transfer the leaves to a blender along with 1 pasilla chili, 1 cup of the beans and 1½ cups water and process until very smooth. Repeat processing the chilies, beans and water until all of the beans are pureed. Warm the seasoned oil over medium-low heat, add the pureed beans and season with salt. Serve hot topped with the cheese, avocado, crema and tortilla strips.

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Begin anew, come to the source. A cherished past. A vital future. An amazing collection of amenities, neighborhoods and scenic expanses with something close to every home. It’s time to claim yours. DAVID WEEKLEY HOMES | DREES CUSTOM HOMES | TRENDMAKER HOMES LiveHeadwaters.com Materials are protected by copyright, trademark, and other intellectual property laws. All rights in these materials are reserved. All products and company names marked as trademarked (™) or registered (®) are trademarks of their respective holders. Copying, reproduction and distribution of materials without prior written consent of Freehold Communities is strictly prohibited. All information, plans, and pricing are subject to change without notice. This information does not represent a specific offer of sale or solicitation to purchase property within Headwaters. Models do not reflect racial preference.

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at HOME

A&K WOODWORKING AND DESIGN BY G EO RG I N A O’ H A RA CA L L A N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

f woodworkers Amanda McKeever and Khiem Nguyen

ple successfully developed a leather strap to hold a knife in

were to open a restaurant, there’s no doubt that the deco-

place and sayas are now one of their most popular items.

rating theme would be a fusion of midcentury modern and

Amanda, from Massachusetts, and Khiem, from Connecti-

Asian. “We love to cook,” explains Amanda. “Khiem bakes—

cut, met in their freshman year at the Massachusetts College

he’s good at measuring things and being specific, in the same

of Art and Design. While Amanda studied jewelry and met-

way that he makes furniture, while I am more organic and like

al design and Khiem studied woodworking and photography,

to experiment. At the moment, we’re into making Thai food.”

they discovered a shared love of the style and functionality

As fate would have it, many of the couple’s friends are

of Japanese design. “In Japan,” Amanda says, “there are boxes

chefs, so requests for breadboards, cutting boards and roll-

for everything, not just tea.” She also developed a passion for

ing pins, chopping boards and particularly sayas—wooden

“everything midcentury modern.”

sheaths that protect knives—are a foundational component

The business came later. In March of 2012, having graduat-

of their business, A&K Woodworking and Design. The cou-

ed the previous year, the couple took a road trip to escape the EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2016

cold weather in Boston and ended up in Austin. “We tried queso,” Amanda says, “and that was it.” Back in Boston, they saved enough money to make the move south. Packing all their possessions into a car, they took a detour to New Hope, Pennsylvania, to the studio of George Nakashima. Profoundly influenced by the artist’s respect for wood, the couple arrived in Austin with heads full of ideas. Khiem began work in a cabinet shop and Amanda in a dress shop, and their future business model slowly evolved from practical needs. They needed furniture and—using scraps of wood given to Khiem at work—started to design and construct their own pieces combining spare and graceful Japanese influences with the modernity of the midcentury. The couple found the collaborative nature of Austin artists and craftspeople to be supportive. Excited by the incubator space concept and new ways to incorporate technology into different applications, they launched a business. “There are people here who love to support the creative community and they are paying attention to the work of craftspeople,” says Khiem. “The maker movement is so strong here.” Instagram has been the couple’s primary business driver, but even with a following of nearly 6,000 from all over the country, Amanda and Khiem find that more than 50 percent of their work is custom. Many requests are for products made in custom sizes, from cutting boards to nightstands, armoires or dining tables. “When talking to customers, we often ask, ‘What do you need this to do for you?’” notes Amanda. “We’re focused on the function of the piece.” A&K Woodworking and Design also offers a line of small hanging and table lanterns inspired by Japanese design. “A lantern is an object that does something,” says Amanda. “It’s important that items have a practical function.” Larger versions of the lantern designs have been made into screens that are used as decorative panels in restaurants and residences. And there’s no mistaking the influences on their work. Simple straight lines combine with slender tapered and flared legs on furniture items that sometimes have brass or aluminum accents and the occasional vintage pull, sourced by Amanda. Practicality is fused with a refined sense of style. The pieces are never stained. “We use gallons of mineral oil,” says Amanda. Woodworking is a time-consuming business. The couple selects wood from local Austin lumberyards and prefers American hardwoods such as walnut, cherry and maple. Khiem is particularly attracted to the rich color and freshness of walnut. “We feel connected to the wood from the beginning,” he says. “We work with the wood from this stage until it becomes something else.” To alter the sometimes challenging dynamic of living and working together, Amanda and Khiem take road trips to refresh, check in with each other, explore and get inspired. They take lots of photos on the way, in places such as Nashville, Boston, Philadelphia, Montreal and Portland, Maine. After eight years together, the couple recently became engaged, but no date has been set for a wedding. “We’ll probably just have a big party,” says Amanda, holding out her hand to show her ring. “But meanwhile, my mother keeps calling.” For more information, call 512-387-7115 or visit akwoodanddesign.com and find A&K kitchen tools and items locally at Métier Cook’s Supply, metieraustin.com

Grow Locally, Cook Globally 18 th A nnuAl F All F estivAl

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This Hunger Action Month we want to remind you that nothing runs on empty. Especially not the one in four Central Texas children who struggle with hunger. Learn how you can help recharge our community and feed neighbors in need at centraltexasfoodbank.org.

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SEELA MISRA BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

ou’d never know it from her masterful stage pres-

a perfect combination that feeds a lot of people, is inexpen-

ence—which somehow manages to be simultaneously

sive (“you gotta figure out a way not to break the bank”),

beatific and witty—but Seela Misra gets a little anx-

involves ingredients she almost always has on hand and is, as

ious when she meets new people. It happens a lot in her line

it turns out, Paleo through and through. (Misra and Greene

of work; the singer-songwriter heads up two bands (Seela’s Big

have been rocking the Paleo diet for a while now.)

Band and Torch) and is in at least five more—singing with

Born in Ontario “to already exhausted Indian immi-

Matt the Electrician, the Purgatory Players, Jaimee Harris,

grants,” Misra hated Indian food as a kid, but her mom

Daniel Thomas Phipps and Scrappy Jud Newcomb, among

wouldn’t budge. “My mother wouldn’t buy anything in a

other side projects. The gigging never stops, nor do the re-

can,” she says. “She didn’t trust canned food. And I wanted to

hearsals, which almost always occur in the “playroom” of the

try Chef Boyardee so badly. Those commercials were so en-

south Austin home Misra shares with her husband, drum-

ticing!” Now, of course, Misra not only appreciates the way

mer Jon Greene, and their newly adopted dog, Liza. “A lot of

her mom used to cook, but has learned many of her mom’s

the bands we’re in have rehearsals here,” she says. “It saves

secrets, as well as those of her aunt, from whom she got the

everybody money and it means Jon doesn’t have to haul a

idea for the “Indianized” meatloaf. “Everything my aunt does

[drum] kit.”

is ‘Indianized’—but she doesn’t know it. She makes really

Because some of these rehearsals include a lot of people

good eggplant parmesan, but you know that part where you

(the XTC Tribute show at Strange Brew Lounge Side earlier

dip the eggplant slices in the egg and the flour? There’s al-

this year, for example, featured more than 15 different artists

ways turmeric in the flour. She doesn’t ever make anything

in addition to the core band), Misra always makes a home-

that doesn’t have both turmeric and cumin in it.”

cooked meal to assuage any anxiety. “I’m sure it’s awkward

As she deftly spoons an array of spices from her stain-

for them as well—walking into someone’s house you don’t

less-steel tiffin spice tin into the meatloaf mixture, she ex-

know,” says Misra. “So, seeing that there’s food set up makes

plains what makes her meatloaf “Indianized.” “The main

them feel a little more relaxed. When you have nothing else

things are the ginger and the spice combination: turmeric, co-

to talk about, you can always talk about food…what kind of

riander and cumin,” she says. “If someone were to tell you to

food you like, what food you’re allergic to…and now you’ve

make a ‘Mexicanized’ meatloaf, you would know what to do,

had a little conversation with somebody you’ve never talked

right? It’s the same concept. It isn’t like someone gave me this

to before!”

recipe, or that it was passed down. I just know what to do!”

Misra is the main cook in the house, but she allows that

As Misra gleefully talks about her ninth record, “Track

Greene—a chemical engineer by day and just as busy by

You Down,” to be released this fall, she brings the conversa-

night as a drummer for most of the aforementioned bands—

tion back home to what really matters to her: It’s about food

has his own brand of kitchen prowess. “He makes bacon,” she

and music. “Playing a really good show with people is one of

says with a sideways grin. “He’s developed that skill. And he

the most unbelievable experiences; it’s like the best drug in

loads the dishwasher. He’s very good at it; he can sort it all

the world. Music is this thing we’re created to do—certain-

for the most efficient use of space.”

ly not to make money or to impress people—but to feel the

Today, Misra is preparing one of the meals her fellow mu-

greatness of life in our bones. Once you do that a couple of

sicians and husband have come to drool over—something

times with people, they become a certain kind of kin,” she

she calls “Indianized” meatloaf muffins and vegetable curry,

says with a sigh. “And that’s lovely.”

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SEELA’S “CERTAIN KIND OF KIN” INDIANIZED MEATLOAF MUFFINS WITH TANGY TOMATO GLAZE Makes 12 muffins For the muffins: 1–2 T. coconut oil, plus more as needed for greasing muffin tin ½ onion, diced 1 small zucchini, grated 2 stalks celery, sliced thin 2 carrots, grated 2 1-lb. packages grassfed ground beef 2 eggs 1 big garlic clove, peeled and grated 1 thumb-size piece of ginger, peeled and grated 2 t. turmeric ¼ t. crushed red chilies 1 t. cumin 1 t. coriander ¼ t. cinnamon 1 t. salt ½ t. black pepper 1 t. liquid coconut aminos (or soy sauce or Bragg’s liquid aminos) 2 T. tomato paste ¼ c. pepitas, raw or toasted 2 Thai chilies, minced, optional For the glaze: 2 T. tomato paste 1 T. coconut water, broth or apple cider vinegar 2 T. chopped jarred mixed pickle or hot lime relish (available in Indian/Asian specialty stores or grocery aisles) Heat the oven to 350°. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté the onions, zucchini and celery until soft—about 3 to 4 minutes. Cool slightly, then add the sautéed vegetables to a large bowl along with grated carrots, ground beef, eggs, grated garlic and ginger, turmeric, crushed chilies, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, salt, pepper, liquid aminos, tomato paste, pepitas and Thai chilies, if using. Mix well with your hands. Brush coconut oil inside each well of a muffin tin, then portion out the meatloaf mixture evenly into each of the wells. Bake in the oven for 35 minutes. For the glaze: Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl to make a sauce. When the meatloaf has baked for 35 minutes, turn off the heat, take out the muffin tin and spoon the glaze over each muffin. Put the tin back in the oven for another 15 minutes until crusty on top.

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Enjoy our new Spring and Summer menu items on our lovely outdoor decks Enjoy our new Spring and Summer menu items on our lovely outdoor decks

FRESH FRESH

• •

RUSTIC RUSTIC

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INTIMATE INTIMATE

FRESH

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RUSTIC

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INTIMATE

Enjoy our new Spring and Summer menu items on our lovely outdoor decks

P A NA N T ★ T P

P A NA N T ★ T

I C PA RTI I C PA RTI

TH OF NTH TOH O OF O N F F F F M M

P L AT E

★

★ ★

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PLA I S TP A R TTE S IR P L AT E ST S IR

512.847.5700 jobellcafe.com 16920 Ranch Road 12 Wimberley, I ★ TX I78676 C R T 78676 512.847.5700 jobellcafe.com 16920 Ranch Road 12 Wimberley,P ATX M

1 t. brown mustard seeds 1–2 T. coconut oil, olive oil or ghee ½ medium onion, diced 4–5 fresh curry leaves from a curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii), available at Indian specialty stores 3 whole cloves 2 cardamom pods ¼ t. crushed red chilies ¼ t. fenugreek seeds ¼ t. fennel seeds 2 small carrots, chopped 2 medium bottle gourds (called lauki in Indian cuisine), peeled, seeded, halved lengthwise and chopped 1 c. coconut water (or substitute broth or water) 1 thumb-size piece of ginger, peeled and grated 1–2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated 2 Thai chilies, minced, optional 1½ c. chopped kale (or spinach or other greens of your choice) 1 c. sliced cremini mushrooms, optional ½ t. turmeric 1 t. coriander ½ t. cumin Handful of green beans, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces Salt and pepper, to taste Ghee, for serving 1 tomato, diced small, for serving 1 c. cilantro, chopped (stems and all), for serving Lemon wedges, for serving

P L AT E

I C PA RTI I C PA RTI

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Serves 6–8

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P L AT E ST S IR P L AT E ST S IR

TH OF NTH TOH O OF O N F F F F M M

SEELA’S VEGETABLE CURRY SIDEKICK

Dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5-10 Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11-2 Brunch Sunday 10:30-2:30

Dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5-10 Lunch16920 Tuesday-Saturday 11-2 12Brunch Sunday 10:30-2:30 512.847.5700 jobellcafe.com Ranch Road Wimberley, TX 78676 Dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5-10 Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11-2 Brunch Sunday 10:30-2:30

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Heat a big saucepan and toast the mustard seeds until they pop and become fragrant. Carefully remove the seeds from the pan and set aside. Add the oil or ghee to the same pot, and when it’s hot, add the onions and curry leaves. Sauté until the onions are translucent while adding cloves, cardamom pods, crushed chilies, fenugreek and fennel seeds. When the mixture is tender and fragrant, add the carrots, lauki and coconut water and bring to a simmer. Add the grated ginger and garlic and minced Thai chilies, if using, and let simmer on low heat, covered, for around 15 minutes. Add the kale or other greens, mushrooms, turmeric, coriander and cumin and stir until the flavors meld. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Finally, add the reserved mustard seeds and green beans. Stir, cover, turn off the heat, and allow to steam until the green beans reach your preferred texture. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust accordingly. Allow to cool, then put in the fridge to be enjoyed the next day. (“Curry is always better the next day,” says Misra.) To serve, portion the curry into bowls (Misra loves to eat hers in a teacup) and “dress” with 1 teaspoon of ghee per serving, chopped tomato, cilantro and a lemon wedge. Note: This curry is, of course, delicious served with rice, but because Misra and Greene are eating Paleo, they like it straight from the pot to the bowl or ladled over mashed potatoes. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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AMY CORBIN BY G EO RG I N A O’ H A RA CA L L A N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

have no idea what I’m going to cook!” says well-known

“I

Corbin was born in Germany and spent her early years

C3 Presents music promoter, Amy Corbin. “But I pride

on a U.S. military base near Stuttgart where her father was

myself on being able to put together a good meal in

stationed. Her mother was interested in local foods and cus-

thirty minutes.” She decides to make “Chicken Bow Wow,” but

toms and learned how to prepare many traditional German

whatever ideas may form upon hearing the name of the dish

dishes while there. Corbin has fond memories of village life

are likely incorrect. Corbin explains that the recipe is a fami-

in Germany—the lay of the military base, her mother’s prepa-

ly favorite, and actually the German Hähnchen nach bauernhof

ration of meals and packed lunches, the daily deliveries of

(loosely translated as “chicken from the farm”)—words that are

fresh pastries. Her brother even took on the equivalent of a

a bit difficult to pronounce for Corbin’s two young daughters,

newspaper route, she says, only he delivered fresh brotchen

Gemma (almost 8) and Milla (4) who coined the dish with its

(bread rolls) to the neighborhood every morning from orders

new name at some point over the years.

placed the night before.

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“I don’t think about work when I cook” —Amy Corbin

“I like to cook,” Corbin says, as she washes and peels six large potatoes. “But I find if you put a lot of time into a meal, it never turns out great. Getting a good healthy meal on the table, quickly, when I get home is very important to me.” Expedience is important partly because Corbin’s work is so intense. At C3 Presents, she oversees the division that produces more than 1,000 concerts a year, as well as books and curates large-scale events such as the ACL Music Festival. It’s a career she got into just out of college when she took a job answering phones three days a week for local promoter Charles Attal. Always a music lover and concert-goer, Corbin

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slowly began to help book bands with increasing success, and over the years, the effort she put in—working with high stress, long hours, lots of travel and little sleep—paid off big. Her name is now synonymous in the industry with ACL, and she keeps six staffers and several assistants busy. It’s a world full of people, contracts, negotiations and travel at a relentless pace, but there’s also

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downtime. “I don’t think about work when I cook,” she says. Today, with her kids in the kitchen, the pace is relaxed and unhurried. She opens the door to a wall-mounted Miele steam oven, pulls out two trays and arranges the sliced potatoes. “I don’t have a microwave,” she says. “In a recent renovation of the house we decided to keep the steamer and forgo the microwave.” She uses the steamer to prepare most vegetables and doesn’t miss the mi-

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crowave. As Corbin pulls out an onion and cuts it into large slices,

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one of the girls wrinkles her nose. “I only add a little onion,” she says—enough for the taste, but in large enough chunks that the kids can pull them out if they’d like.

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The enticing smell of onions frying fills the kitchen. “My mother-in-law passed on a great trick to me,” she says. “She said

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to fry onions in a pan and then everyone will think from the smell that you’re a great cook!” As Corbin cubes the chicken breasts and bacon, her girls (accompanied by 10-year-old Riley, their cousin visiting from Dallas) wash tomatoes and lettuce for a salad. “She’s

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a pretty good cook,” Gemma chimes in with 8-year-old seriousness. “We also like sloppy Joe night…and I like Caesar salad.”

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The family sits down to eat and there’s a brief discussion about who gets which fried egg to top their plate, then suddenly Milla turns and, with the great conviction of a 4-year-old participating in

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AMY CORBIN’S “A LITTLE EASIER TO PRONOUNCE” CHICKEN BOW WOW Serves 6–7 6 large potatoes, washed, peeled and sliced 3 T. olive oil 4 chicken breasts, sliced and cubed 1 large onion, peeled and sliced into large pieces 7 thick-cut bacon strips, cubed 1 garlic clove, crushed Salt and pepper, to taste Splash of red wine (optional) 6–7 eggs Heat the oven to 400°. Steam the sliced potatoes until fork-soft. Heat the olive oil in an oven-safe sauté pan and add the chicken pieces. Cook for a few minutes, then add the onion, bacon, garlic, salt, pepper and wine (if using) and stir to combine. Add the potatoes to the pan and stir. Place the pan, uncovered, in the oven for about 12 minutes. Meanwhile, fry the eggs to over-easy and set aside. Remove the pan from the oven, scoop out portions onto plates and place 1 fried egg atop each serving. Serve with a fresh green salad, if desired.

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CARRIE FOUNTAIN AND KIRK LYNN BY K AT E W EST • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

hen you’re from New Mexico, there’s really only one important question ever asked: “Red or green?” We’re talking about sauce, and there are actually three possible answers (“red,” “green” or “Christmas” which is both), but for Carrie Fountain, it’s red all the way. The accomplished poet and novelist grew up watching her grandmother cook in the family’s Mexican restaurant and bar in Mesilla, New Mexico. Red enchiladas were a customer favorite, but Fountain, a picky eater as a kid, always chose something else. “I’d have a cheese burrito with cheese on top,” she says. “Until one day, I tasted this dish and thought, ‘Why haven’t I been eating this?’ It was amazing.” When Fountain moved to Austin to study writing at the James Michener Center at the University of Texas, she soon met her future husband, Kirk Lynn—also a student at that time but now a UT professor, a playwright and a founding member of the adventurous local theater group, Rude Mechs. Suddenly, Fountain’s way of cooking opened Lynn’s eyes. “Kirk’s from San Antonio,” she says. “So he learned about New Mexican food, which is so different from Tex-Mex.” And native-Texan Lynn is willing to trade in his roots for this dish. “I am fairly loyal to the greasy powers of TexMex,” he says. “But I gotta say, the first time I tasted authentic New Mexico chile prepared by an authentic New Mexican with a family history that includes a restaurant and bar on the plaza in Mesilla, I was sold. I would burn down my favorite Tex-Mex joint

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for a plate of Carrie’s enchiladas.” Fountain continues her family’s tradition of making red enchiladas for Christmas Eve dinner as well as when the couple has guests over. “I only make them occasionally because it’s a really long process,” says Fountain. “And when I want to wow [guests].” She prepares the dish in-

side her quaint kitchen that opens into a big cozy living room with expansive windows that overlook a large tree-covered backyard. It’s a place she loves because she can cook and keep an eye on her kids at the same time. Even the lasagna dish Fountain uses to prepare the meal is special: It was a wedding gift for the couple.

That aforementioned wow factor comes directly from the specific dried New Mexican red chile pods used to create the sauce. When Fountain isn’t in New Mexico to buy the pods, she hurries to the only spot in Central Texas she’s been able to find them—an H-E-B in San Marcos. Coaxing the unique flavor from the pods takes some work. “Start by softening the chiles in warm water for a few hours,” she says. “Then load up a blender with garlic and puree the two together.” But to get the right, velvety consistency in the sauce, Fountain runs the puree through a food mill to remove the skins. Also, she takes precautions. “Because you’re dealing with something bright, red and hot, I wear latex gloves when doing this.” Finally, she makes a roux to thicken the sauce. “It’s entirely smooth…and it’s almost like the experience of eating mole—at least the texture—but the flavor is very unique.” Then begins the layering process of corn tortillas, cheese, raw onion and red chile sauce. “I sometimes even cook the tortillas in a pan with some oil to soften them,” she says. “It adds another flavor to the dish.” Fountain notes there are a few secrets to this dish: keep the onions raw to allow for a little crunch with each bite and (surprisingly) never roll the tortillas; they’re always layered flat. While the dish is a hit with the adults, the couple’s two kids—self-described picky eaters—aren’t exactly fans yet. “It’s a complicated flavor you can’t find in Austin,” Fountain says. “We’ve decided we’re going to continue to eat it even if our children choose not to.” She’s confident they’ll come around when they get older, just as she did. Lynn concurs. “I think they’ll grow out of it,” he says. “I used to never like conceptual art or European novels or glitch music, but given time, you realize that the world isn’t built of chicken nuggets, culturally or gastronomically. Plus, until they get wise, there’s more enchiladas for me!” This dish has even inspired Fountain’s writing. Her first novel (sold in June to a publisher) features a father who learns how to cook by making enchiladas—a loving nod to her days growing up in the family restaurant, when the food was plentiful and everyone came together to eat. Sadly, the family restaurant closed in the ’90s, but the family still runs the bar that was established in 1934. “My heart still lives in New Mexico,” says Fountain. Luckily, her family’s red enchiladas have found a new home in Austin. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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CARRIE FOUNTAIN’S “NEW MEXICAN HEART” RED CHILE ENCHILADAS Serves 4

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1 9-oz. bag of dried New Mexico red chile pods* 3 garlic cloves 3 T. vegetable oil ¼ c. flour 3–4 c. water Salt and pepper, to taste 12 corn tortillas 4 c. shredded cheddar cheese 1 onion, finely chopped Sour cream, for serving Fried eggs, for serving Remove the stems and seeds from the chile pods. In a stockpot, cover the pods with water and simmer for a half hour to soften or just soak in warm water for a few hours. Once soft, drain and place the pods along with the garlic in a blender and puree—adding small amounts of fresh water if necessary—until a thick paste is formed. Pass the paste through a food mill using the smallest grid to separate out the fibrous, bitter skins. This method should yield about 1 cup of bright red, very smooth chile paste. Heat the oil in a stockpot over medium heat, slowly add the flour and whisk to make a roux. Add the chile paste to the roux and mix, then slowly add fresh water to create a sauce (for a thick sauce, add about 3 cups of water; for a thinner sauce, add about 4). Let the sauce cook down about 20 minutes. Soften the tortillas either by steaming them or cooking each briefly in oil. (Don’t fry too long or you’ll have crunchy tortillas.) Serve individual plates of 3 enchiladas by layering each tortilla with sauce, cheese and onions and stacking (as is traditional in New Mexico). Serve with a generous amount of cheese on top. Like today, as an alternative (especially when serving a number of guests), Fountain makes a casserole out of the dish by coating the bottom of a lasagna pan with sauce, then lining the pan with sauce-dipped tortillas. She follows with cheese, onions, more sauce and tops with cheese. To make this a very New Mexican meal, she says, add a fried egg to the top of each serving and serve with sour cream, refried beans and Spanish rice. *I highly recommend wearing food-prep gloves while handling chile pods, no matter how mild—especially if you wear contact lenses or have sensitive skin.

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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS

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Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Delysia Chocolatier Handcrafted in Austin. Our products are handmade using fine quality, sustainable chocolate and only the freshest ingredients. 512-413-4701 2000 Windy Terrace, Suite 2C delysia.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 35 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd. ilikelick.com

Lone Star Meats Lone Star Meats is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6220 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarmeats.com

Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com

Wholy Bagel Wholy Bagel prepares scratch-made New York style bagels daily. 512-899-0200 4404 W. William Cannon Dr. wholybagelatx.com

BAKERIES Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com 60

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A boutique bakery. 512-766-7897 ravensregale.com

BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com

Bending Branch Winery Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thurs-Sun. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Cibolo Creek Brewing Co. A place to kick back and meet your neighbors in a family friendly atmosphere, while enjoying house brewed beer and eating fresh pub food. 254-979-1988 488 S. Main St., Boerne cibolocreekbrewing.com

Lewis Wines Boutique producer of 100% Texas wines in Johnson City, Texas. 512-987-0660 3209 Hwy. 290 W., Johnson City lewiswines.com

Live Oak Brewing Co. Since 1997 Live Oak Brewing Co. has brewed authentic Central European style beers for people who enjoy the flavor of beer. 512-580-4265 1615 Crozier Ln., Del Valle liveoakbrewing.com

Lost Draw Cellars Lost Draw Cellars produces stellar Texas wines from our vineyards in the Texas High Plains, sourcing grapes for some of the best wineries in the state. 830-992-3251 113 E. Park St., Fredericksburg lostdrawcellars.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

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Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy., Bee Cave 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Coffee Traders East Austin’s artisinal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Texas Hills Vineyard Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 830-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

Texas Keeper Ciders Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 800-252-3206 utexaspress.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Pink Avocado A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food, and surprisingly good professional service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St., Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

EDUCATION The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937, Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 3525 Market St., Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com

Twisted X Brewing Craft brewery nestled at the foot of the Hill Country. Our tap room is open weekly with 13 locally brewed beers on tap, it’s a great place for a party or to simply enjoy a pint. 512-829-5323 23455 W. RR 150, Dripping Springs texmexbeer.com

EVENTS Bavarian Brotzeit Join Champignon Cheese, ABGB and Edible Austin on Sept 22 from 5 -8 pm for beer and cheese, guided tastings and music by The Austin Polka Band! Benefits The House that Beer Built. 512-441-3971 The ABGB - 1305 W. Oltorf St

Texas Reds Festival Texas Reds Festival celebrates two great Texas industries, beef & wine! The festival is held in Historic Downtown Bryan in Sept. & also features live music, kids zone & artisans. 979-822-4920 Downtown Bryan texasredsfestival.com

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