Edible Austin Beverage 2018

edible

No. 58 May/June | Beverage 2018

Austin

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Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

where good times and great meals

bring people together We deliver the finest all-natural Angus steaks from our farm to your home.

Quality is bred into everything we do, and you’ll be able to taste the difference.

44farms.com

@44FAR MS

At Emmi, we are dedicated to protecting the integrity and heritage of the cheeses we make in Switzerland to ensure only the finest flavors and recipes come to you and your table.

Tr y our pre m i u m fam i ly of c ave-a ged c heeses f ro m the Kal tb ach cave available in the specialty cheese section of your local grocer.

FOR MO R E INS PIRATI ON VI SI T EM M I USA .COM

CONTENTS 8 what’s on our COUNTER 10 notable EDIBLES

S nack Jack, Real Spirits, Loose Tie Brewing Company.

14 PEOPLE

June Rodil.

19

22 day TRIP

Berry Hunting.

28 local HEROES

2018 winners announced.

32

38 PEOPLE

Chris Mullins and Steve Leininger.

43 edible EXCERPT

The Broken Spoke.

47 edible DIY

47

Yeasted waffles.

features 19 Three Cousins’ Strawberry

Patch A family grows a classic Texas treat.

26 Calling All Cooks Help wanted in Austin restaurants.

52 The Directory

32 Something about Berries Capturing the simple deliciousness of the berry.

58 edible INK

The strawberry.

COVER: Strawberry Paloma (page 34).

Photography by Casey Woods.

41

The Lone Star State of Rosé Which rosé should you pick up this summer?

PUBLISHER’S NOTE RENEWED LOVE

PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

I

’ve been out of town and traveling a lot lately and, more than ever, I realize how lucky we are to have access to so much fresh and local food

and locally owned and operated restaurants. I’ve

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

found myself complaining less about the traffic here in Austin just because I am so happy to be home. I love being able to run right down the street and grab fresh tortillas, just-harvested vegetables and a meal at a restaurant that not only supports our community and economy but our farmers and ranchers, as well. Getting away has been a great reminder of why I love this city.

As the season finally heats up and short day-trip getaways beckon, we’ve put together a list of some of the pick-your-own berry farms around Central Texas. (page

DIGITAL CONTENT COORDINATOR Darby Kendall

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella, Dena Garcia

MARKETING SPECIALIST Rachel Davis

INTERN Jennifer Lawrence

22). And once you have that passel of freshly picked jewels, check out our ideas for what to do with them—the ones that survive the drive home, anyway (page 32).

DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

We also began a new rotating feature in our last issue called, “What’s on Our Counter.” In it, our staff reveals some of the things we’re currently—and happily—obsessed with and what makes them benevolently binge-worthy. For example, I recently rekindled my love for Boggy Creek Farm’s heady, earthy and umami-rich smoke-dried tomatoes. I’m so glad I did, too, because I’ve been adding them to everything from soups to stir-fries—anything that needs just the perfect amount of smoke kick. Find out what other treats our staff chose this round (page 8).

FOUNDER Marla Camp

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US We’re also continuing our series on the struggles local restaurants are facing with finding, and keeping, their support staff (page 26). We talked to a handful of Austin chefs and restaurant owners about the creative ways they’ve found to overcome some of the challenges. But don’t be surprised if it includes some increasing menu prices around town; our beloved local places are simply trying to ensure that hardworking staff can earn a living wage.

Cheers to the warmer weather and exploring the best of Central Texas!

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2018. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

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Join us

Buy a la Carte or come to all

Tacos & Tap

Build your own Bratwurst

Go Whole Hog

Make Whey

with Austin Taco Project in May

with US Foods in August

with US Foods in June

with Dos Lunas Cheese in September

pick your flavor

Mix it uP

with Lick Honest Ice Creams in July

with Cannon + Belle in October

All things cookie

with Make it Sweet in December

Presented by

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limited seating—tickets at edibleAustin.com/edl

W H AT ’ S

ON OUR

COUNTER

by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

We’re always trying new local products. Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

BOGGY CREEK FARM Urban farm Boggy Creek sells a variety of local produce and goods at their farm stand, and one of our favorite items is their smoke-dried tomatoes. These organic, small-batch smoky treats are made in a commercial kitchen by Boggy Creek Farm owner/farmer Larry Butler using the same method since 1994. The tomatoes give a bacon-like flavor to the dishes they’re featured in, so they’re perfect for vegetarians who still want that meaty flavor. Because you can only buy them at Boggy Creek’s farm stand, pick up some seasonal produce and meats from grassfed animals from local ranchers while you’re there, too!

512-926-4650 3414 Lyons Rd. boggycreekfarm.com

DEANO’S BEESWAX Saving the bees never smelled so good, thanks to the body products at Deano’s Beeswax. These beeswax-based oil balms are handcrafted in small batches on organic farm and apiary, CrownFox Farms. From body and beard balms to the new mama-aimed booby balm, these salves are perfect for both aromatherapy and skin nourishment. Scent combinations include “Green Machine” (sage, oregano and tea tree), “Woodland Axeman” (sandalwood, bergamot and cedarwood) and “Earthy Mama Brew” (honey, clove and lemongrass). Deano’s also offers a neutral massage balm for the scent-sensitive. deanosbeeswax.com

REVOLUTION SPIRITS Small craft distillery Revolution Spirits offers both year-round and limited-release products, and is best known for its Austin Reserve Gin. However, the newly available Amico Amaro is shaking up their lineup. It’s the first Texas-made amaro— both delicious and in high demand. Plus, it’s perfect as an ingredient in cocktails or sipped as an aperitif. If you want to whip up a beverage with the amaro, try it in a negroni, and be sure to use that locally made gin, as well. Check Revolution Spirits’ website to find availability around town.

512-358-1203 12345 Pauls Valley Rd., Bldg. G revolutionspirits.com

HILL COUNTRY PROVISIONS & IRON Elevate your cooking game beyond basic table salt with Hill Country Provisions & Iron’s spices. The local business sources their salt and seasoning blends from the Texas Hill Country, and its slow-method heating process ensures bold flavors. The pictured Amalfi Coast Blend features granulated honey and lemon peel, and is a delicious complement to poultry, pork and vegetables.

Also available are salts infused with Hill Country wines or Sriracha. Visit the website to find locations where you can purchase, including the Texas Farmers Markets at Lakeline and Mueller, as well as Con’ Olio’s three Austin locations. hillcoproiron.com

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notable EDIBLES YOU DON’T KNOW JACK

W

hen Diana Dussan wanted to test her new jackfruit jerky, she knew if she could win over her “sixty-something, retired-military, anti-anything-vegan, moun-

tain-man of a stepdad,” she’d be onto something. In the end, he not only liked it, he didn’t even believe her when she told him he

Dussan rolled out her original, peppered and sweet-chili fla-

was eating a dehydrated fruit. “It was the texture that got him,”

vored jerkies at the Texas Farmers Market at Mueller in Decem-

she says. “He didn’t expect it to crunch like meat.”

ber and they sold like crazy, despite the blustery 25-degree weath-

Snack Jack was born from a three-month restrictive diet Dus-

er that day. Since then, she’s launched a booth at Barton Creek

san’s doctor prescribed as a health booster. Cooking up snacks

Farmers Market, The Wandering Vegan pop-up market and San

that fit the bill revived her dormant dream of starting a food busi-

Antonio’s Vegan Stop Shop. She plans to break into retail stores

ness—preferably one that didn’t involve animal death. Though

next, after she moves the cottage-food operation out of her home

Dussan sometimes eats meat, she does marketing for a farm-ani-

and into an industrial kitchen.

mal-welfare nonprofit, so she didn’t want to be part of the prob-

Her original business plan didn’t call for growth this fast,

lem. Instead, she says, “I wanted to make something everybody

but she’s rolling with it—especially if it helps her achieve one

could enjoy.” She grew convinced that that something would be

of Snack Jack’s goals: to stop sourcing jackfruit from Thailand

jackfruit—a botanical master of disguise that not only passes as

and get it from Brazil, where the plant is an invasive (and, hence,

meat, but is also high in fiber, potassium and lots of other good

organic) species. “It’s taking over the rainforest,” she says. “We

stuff. Plus, it tastes just fine without the junk that gets added to

want to turn it into a positive.”—Steve Wilson

other jerkies. Dussan doesn’t even have to tinker too much with the recipe to produce a separate Paleo version.

For more information, visit snackjackjerky.com

CATERING | EVENT AND TENT RENTALS | FLORALS WWW.WHIMHOSPITALITY.COM 10

MAY/JUNE 2018

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Shy Laurel Photography

Tito’sALL-TIM E

FA V O R I T E his is our man Tito’s signature spin on a classic “vodka soda,” and it’s become a company staple. The orange adds a bit of sweetness, the lime adds a bit of tartness, and the whole effervescent drink is so fresh and so clean. ★ 1½ oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka ★ 4 oz. sparkling mineral water ★ slice of orange ★ slice of lime

Just add the Tito’s Handmade Vodka and sparkling water to a glass over ice. Garnish with a slice of orange and a slice of lime.

E njoy!  Check out more legendary recipes at TitosVodka.com

A REAL CHANGE OF PACE

R

ather than start with just any old mash to make its new line of whiskey and gin, indie beermaker Real Ale Brewing Company turns to the complex brews already cooking

up just a few doors down. Head distiller Davin Topel makes his Texas Hill Country Signature Whiskey and Single Barrel Whiskey from the early stages of Real Ale’s Devil’s Backbone Belgian Tripel and its Real Heavy Scotch Ale. What’s more, the company’s Grain to Glass Gin springs from Real Ale’s White Belgian Wheat Ale. With a few other flourishes along the way (like 10 different botanicals added to the gin including the unlikely bottlebrush leaf), the end results are spirits that taste like few others out there. The whiskey, for instance, has “a slight smoky profile without it being a big peat monster in your mouth,” says Topel.

Real Spirits breaks tradition even further by embracing the boon that a typical Texas summer lends to the aging process. No dinking around for four years in a tiny barrel for this booze; Topel has found that 18 months of Texas heat does the trick. “In other states, when the temperature dips below 45 degrees, there’s not much action happening,” he says. “Whereas here in Texas, we have two seasons: summer and January. The rest of the year the whiskey is constantly changing its character in the barrel.”

That’s a locally sourced barrel, in case you were wondering. And at 53 gallons, it lends this liquid gold more complicated (in a good way) flavors than the smaller containers used by the rest of the in-

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dustry. To bring the whole process full circle, Real Ale uses Topel’s drained whiskey barrels to age its Mysterium Verum line of beers.

For the moment, you can only buy the three initial Real Spirits products at the company’s taproom in Blanco. Eventually, the company plans to distribute to select bars and restaurants, and potentially to retail outlets, as well. But there’s no rush here, which is fitting for a product that’s been in the works since 2014. “A lot of new distilleries need a cash return right away,” says Topel. “But at Real Ale, the beer keeps the lights on, so that lets us invest time into this.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit realalebrewing.com or call 830-833-2534.

SUGAR BUZZ

C R AF T BE E R C H O CO LAT E

O LI V E O I L O N TA P

WI N E

A NEW GEM IN BLANCO WITH A 100 YEAR LEGACY

1 7 2 5 H W Y 2 8 1 S O U TH , B L A N CO

G I L L E NSCA ND I E S. COM

I

CHEESE

CH AR C U T E R I E AN D M O R E !

Contemporary Italian, focused on using “whole” local ingredients

f the Cinnamon Toast Crunch chef decided to enter a homebrew beer competition in Austin, Hazelnut Crunch is what

Happy Hour specials, dinner, & late night dining

he’d probably make. Seriously, it’s got actual Cinnamon Toast

Crunch in it, though to hear the beer’s real-life creators tell it,

Specialty chocolates & coffee

that part was sort of improvised. “We were sitting around eat-

Vegetarian & gluten-free friendly

ing Cinnamon Toast Crunch as we made it, so we just decided to dump some in,” says homebrewer Nathan Beels, who dreamed up

Private dining room available

Hazelnut Crunch with girlfriend Bonnie Evans. “It was only half a box, so I’m not sure how much flavor it imparted to the beer. It

J E R KY

CO F F E E

2612 E Cesar Chavez 512.599.4052 interorestaurant.com

was just one of those, ‘Why nots?’”

“Why not?” pretty much sums up the philosophy behind Loose Tie Brewing Company, the group that has given Beels, Evans and their friends, Jacob Guinn and Josh Thigpen, an outlet for their, shall we say, fanciful notions about beer. “We basically do what people say you’re not supposed to do and kind of go that route,” says Beels.

Looking to enter North by Northwest Restaurant and Brewery’s

RENT BRONKO BOXES FOR YOUR NEXT MOVE

second annual Wort War II Homebrew Competition last November, the group dreamed up a pastry stout using non-fermenting lactose sugar, cinnamon and hazelnuts—so, basically it was already Cinnamon Toast Crunch in liquid form even before they added the cereal. Staying true to the Hazelnut Crunch’s casual origins, they signed up late for the competition, bottled the brew the day before the due date and dropped it off with an hour to spare. It’s little wonder the Loose Tie crew didn’t have high hopes; they started leaving the Wort War awards ceremony before the final winners were even announced. “We figured we lost,” Beels says. “Then, just as we got to the exit, they announced we’d won.”

As the winners of Wort War II, Beels and company have a shot at greater glory on a national scale. Come summertime, North by Northwest will work with Loose Tie to brew up another batch of Hazelnut Crunch for the pro-amateur competition at the Great American Beer Festival in Denver this September. In the meantime, Beels and his friends have no shortage of other beer cre-

AND SEND THE CARDBOARD BOXES PACKING!

ations they plan to pursue, with or without breakfast cereal.

—Steve Wilson For more information, follow @loose_tie_brews on Instagram.

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13

PEOPLE

JUNE RODIL

BY A DA M B O L ES • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

U

p a back staircase, in what was once a few small efficiency

lent to getting your Ph.D. in wine, and some would even argue it’s

apartments above the Viscardi Family Grocery in the his-

more difficult than a traditional academic degree. It takes years

toric Clarksville neighborhood, there is now a classroom.

of study and testing to earn, and most people who take the exams

Long gone is the grocery downstairs, replaced in 1975 by Jeffrey’s,

don’t pass. Currently, there have only been 236 Master Somms

one of Austin’s most iconic and long-lived restaurants that was

worldwide, and Rodil is one of only 25 women in this elite club.

reinvented and reopened in 2013 by the McGuire Moorman Hos-

Not bad for a person who began her career working at Olive Gar-

pitality (MMH) group as a modern fine-dining establishment.

den. “I was eighteen years old and I lasted a year,” Rodil says of

The classroom is bright with restored blonde hardwood floors, recessed lighting and a table stretching its length, which, on this

her first job. “I remember my friends—nobody—thought I would make it in the service industry.”

blustery February afternoon, is populated by two dozen repre-

At times, Rodil didn’t think she’d make it in the service industry

sentatives from across the MMH empire. All rungs of the corpo-

either, but she worked her way through University of Texas in the

rate ladder are in attendance—from restaurant GMs to Sammy, an

famous bar and dining room at The Driskill, while also moonlight-

autodidactic busboy. They’re here on their time off to learn, and

ing as a law clerk. After graduation, she accepted an invitation to

Master Sommelier June Rodil is their teacher.

study at NYU’s law school, but she backed out at the last minute. “It

If you were to conjure an image of a master sommelier in your

was the realization that if I became some really great lawyer, that

mind, you might picture a besuited older Frenchman solemnly

wouldn’t fulfill something [for me]. And in the end, the thing that I

swirling a glass of wine, or one of the hyper-competitive bros

was already doing was really awesome, and I really enjoyed it. It was

featured in the documentary, “Somm.” One way or another, the

a great growing-up moment to realize that…to accept the person that

image probably wouldn’t be of a 5-foot-tall Filipino-American

you have become and be happy about it; knowing when something is

woman in her 30s with the kind of energy, humor and charm one

a bad decision even when it sounds like a great opportunity.”

might usually associate with a daytime talk-show host. But maybe it should be.

External expectations, however, are something different.

There’s a vast, rocky valley between telling your parents you want

This is a special day to be in class; Rodil is leading the group

to be a lawyer and telling them you want to be in restaurants as

in tasting a series of Grand Cru Bourgogne wines from the Côte

your life’s work. Rodil describes herself as ambitious and com-

de Nuits, otherwise considered by many as the best, most sublime

petitive, and says she put a lot of pressure on herself to try to

pinot noir produced on the planet. “Grand Cru is like Madonna,”

understand the meaning of success. “That’s one of the reasons I

Rodil tells her students. “It needs no other name.”

received [the Master Somm diploma],” she says. “To give credibil-

The group tastes across the 2011 vintage, a year Rodil says was

ity to the industry. I want the people who work with us to also be

remarkable for its challenges. Plagued with wildly fluctuating tem-

proud of that, and to be proud of themselves…to understand that

peratures, hail and the onset of mildew, vintners at these storied

this is a legitimate career.” Also, she turned to the Court because

wineries were forced to use their ingenuity and centuries of know-

it gave her a sense of completion. “I’m more structure-oriented

how to produce wines of such rare excellence. The metaphors of-

like that,” she says. “I need the structure of understanding that I

fered by a year like 2011 aren’t lost on Rodil, who, like the vintners

am climbing a ladder, that there are levels that I am completing

of that year, is undaunted by challenges. “I’m a bit of a bulldog,” she

to give me this sense of satisfaction, and for me to be able to feel

says. “You make that vintage your strongest vintage ever.”

proud of myself. Those things are important.”

Rodil counts her own rough seasons as 2014 and 2015, with

This afternoon’s wine tasting, then, is really an expression of

two unsuccessful tries at getting into the Court of Master Somme-

Rodil’s tenacity. When she returned after failing to earn her Mas-

liers. “I passed Tasting and Service my first try, and I didn’t pass

ter Somm credentials the second time, she took her current po-

[the Theory portion of the exam] until my third try,” she says. “I

sition as beverage director for MMH and began this educational

goose-egged in the middle, and that was humbling.”

series for the staff. “Nothing will teach you more than having to

Achieving the Master Sommelier diploma is somewhat equiva-

teach other people,” she says. “Those guys rely on me to be right.

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15

I can’t make shit up! I have to be right! It also allowed me to be more honest with myself when I didn’t have the information.

To be like, ‘I don’t know. That’s a great question. Let’s find that out together.’ Being responsible for other people allows you to be responsible for yourself, and that’s what pushed me through to finish my test.”

While her parents may still wonder what might have been for June Rodil, Esquire (“Up until about five years ago, I feel like they still thought maybe I would go to law school one day”), she’s never looked back. “I like what I’m doing! What’s wrong with liking what I’m doing?”

For their part, her old bosses at the law firm where she clerked regularly come in to visit Rodil in her restaurants. “What’s so funny is I still remember their sandwich order—tuna fish on wheat, Thundercloud Subs, no pickles ever.” And how do they feel about her career choices? “They’re so cute,” Rodil says. “They’re always like, ‘You’re our most famous law clerk! We’re so glad you didn’t become another f$#kin’ lawyer!’”

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REAL. GOOD.

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FARMERS diary

THREE COUSINS’ STRAWBERRY PATCH

BY C L AY C O P P E D G E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S

W

hen Will and Ann Bates’ oldest granddaughter, Hallie

Hallie, now 12, gladly complied with her grandfather’s wishes.

Bates, was 9 years old and ready to enter the 4-H pro-

She grew enough berries to sell at that year’s festival with plenty

gram in Poteet, Texas, she told her grandparents she

more left over, so she opened Hallie’s Strawberry Patch to the

wanted to raise animals—pigs, specifically. Will, a longtime agri-

public as a pick-your-own operation. Pretty soon, she was putting

culture teacher in Poteet, agreed to help her, but under one con-

money away for college. “We never thought it would be that suc-

dition: she had to grow strawberries, too. “This is a strawberry

cessful,” Will says.

place,” Will explained.

Soon, Hallie’s cousins, Hannah Chandler, 13, and her sister Tess

Indeed, it is. The city’s water tower, painted to look like a

Chandler, 10, wanted in on the action. The current patch, now

strawberry, and the 7-foot-tall, 1,600-pound strawberry replica in

named Three Cousins’ Strawberry Patch to reflect the expansion,

front of the fire station offer an inkling of the town’s claim to

covers a little more than an acre. “Ann and I are the landlords and

fame. And the annual three-day Poteet Strawberry Festival brings

banker and they’re the labor—and they do a lot of it,” Will says.

100,000 people to town every April.

The strawberry season runs from late February to about the EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MAY/JUNE 2018

19

middle of May. By June, it’s too hot and the plants stop bloom-

“We have fun with it,” Hallie says, adding that Granna (Ann)

ing, and it’s time to get the ground in shape for the next year’s

keeps a close eye on them to make sure things don’t get out of

crop, which is planted in the fall and tended to all winter. Not

hand. “But the best part is eating them. You know how they say

that the three cousins mind all the work. On a visit to the farm

they sell all they can and eat the rest? I like to say I eat all I can

in mid-February—just as their plants should’ve been coming up

and sell the rest.”

but weren’t because the recent weather had been everything but

It’s not all fun and games out in the strawberry patch, though.

sunny—they ticked off the things they like about being in the

Sometimes, the weather doesn’t cooperate. Other times, army-

strawberry business. “My favorite part of it is the U-Pick-’Em

worms, birds, wasps or a combination of pests attack the plants

part,” Hallie says. “I get to meet a lot of people from all over…

that the kids have nurtured all season. But the kids keep it all in

China, New York, India, Russia. They get real excited about what

perspective. “Part of why we’ve done so well is because we’ve

we’re doing.”

learned to rely on God,” Hallie says. “That’s the truth of it. That’s

“My favorite part is when the people come in and give the little

where it’s all at.”

kids scissors so they can go cut the berries off the plants,” says

Hannah and Tess’ mom, Meaghen Chandler—a former Straw-

Hannah. “The kids get these huge saucer eyes; they get so excited,

berry Festival Queen—says the joys and challenges of growing

you have to remind them not to run with scissors.”

strawberries for fun and profit have been good for the cousins

Tess likes selling the hanging baskets of strawberry plants, but

in other ways, too. “They have an opportunity to get their hands

she doesn’t like it if too much moisture makes the berries soggy

dirty,” she says. “They know what hard work is. They get tired and

and turns them into mush. “They’re transparent!” Tess marvels.

keep going. That’s the kind of stuff money can’t buy.”

“You can see right through them. It’s so gross!”

And it looks like another name change might be in the works.

But even during the most tedious part of the process—plant-

Two younger male cousins, Jacob and Caleb, have taken to doing

ing—the three girls manage to have fun, sometimes racing to see

what they can in the strawberry patch, as well. Perhaps a Five

who can put the most plants in the ground in the shortest amount

Cousins’ Strawberry Patch?

of time. They’re not above throwing the bad ones at each other when they’re harvesting, either.

Find Three Counsins’ Strawberry Patch on Facebook.

POTEET STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL The local Rotary Club in Poteet, Texas, started the Poteet Strawberry Festival in 1948 to celebrate the area’s long-standing reputation as a strawberry mecca, and to bring people—and their dollars—to town.

But in the 46 years that retired agriculture teacher and strawberry guru Will Bates has worked the annual festival, he’s seen attendance figures triple as the number of local acres devoted to growing strawberries has dwindled from 300 to as low as 30. Will attributes the decline to the amount of labor that’s required—whether homegrown or hired—coupled with the cost of machinery, fertilizer and other inputs for keeping current operations small and preventing some would-be growers from even trying. It’s been quite a blow to a town that takes such great pride in its treasured rubies. “We realized it’s hard to say you’re the strawberry capital of Texas if you don’t have any strawberries,” he says.

The Poteet Strawberry Festival Association is addressing the situation with an initiative to make it easier for people to grow berries by supplying a free plasticulture system that covers the soil or plants with plastic to control weeds without the use of herbicides or hoes. The association also purchased a mulching tool that builds and shapes the beds and covers them with the plastic mulch—all in a single pass—and lets the growers use it for free. That’s helped bring the number of strawberry acres up to around 50. “It’s made a difference,” says Will. “We had people who wanted to put in berries, but they couldn’t afford the labor or equipment for a big operation. Our acres are slowly coming back.”

Poteet’s nonprofit groups fund most of their annual activities with money raised during the festival, which provides about 30 college scholarships a year to local students. In Poteet, “Strawberry Fields Forever” is more than an old Beatles song. It’s the main goal.

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D AY T R I P

BERRY

HUNTING

by JEN HAMILTON photography by CAROLE TOPALIAN

T

here is no better way to ensure the quality of berries than

grassfed cows, too. Be sure to call or email to make an appointment

to pick them yourself. Luckily, our area is well situated for

or get directions; the farm’s address is not listed publicly. Guests are

a berry-picking day trip, so pack a cooler for the berries

welcome to bring a picnic lunch and enjoy time on the farm.

you’ll bring home and some snacks for the road! Take a camera,

512-567-3456; Bastrop

too—you’re sure to get some beautiful shots of the varying land-

chickamaw@gmail.com

scapes surrounding Austin. Some of the farms featured here are small, family-owned operations that require an appointment to

CHMIELEWSKI’S BLUEBERRY FARM

ensure berry availability, while others are larger operations that

seven varieties of pesticide-free blueberries

offer everything from activities for the kids, to T-shirts, fresh jams

Chmielewski’s is open May through July for pick-your-own

and ice creams. All the farms recommend checking their web-

blueberries by appointment. Check the website for recipes, in-

sites or calling to check prices and availability, as weather condi-

cluding blueberry pancakes and blueberry ice cream topping.

tions and other factors can influence both. Also, keep in mind that

281-304-0554; 23810 Bauer Hockley Rd., Hockley

strawberry season ends during the month of May, so get pickin’.

chmielewski-blueberry.com

Whichever farm you choose, you’ll have a relaxing day in the country learning about picking berries and their ideal growing

E&B ORCHARDS

conditions, and perhaps even enjoy a picnic or pet some adorable

blackberries

farm animals. Also, that strawberry corncake (see page 35) you make will taste even sweeter.

CHICKAMAW FARM AND RANCH certified-organic blueberries in addition to picking your own berries, you can pick up beef from MAY/JUNE 2018

available. Guests are encouraged to check the picking report on the website for prices and availability. Finish off your picnic with fresh, homemade ice cream available for sale on property.

This is the only certified biodynamic operation in Texas, and

22

E&B Orchards is open mid-May through early July for picnics and outings, as well as picking. Nectarines and peaches are also

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

979-826-6303; 28268 Clark Bottom Rd., Hempstead eandborchards.com

Sunny days deserve fresh cut cheeses

Visit AntonellisCheese.com to reserve your picnic basket

4220 Duval St. | 111 Congress Ave. | (512) 531-9610 weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned

1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com

NEW TO OUR MENU: Pan Seared Salmon with basil mashed potatoes & crispy Brussels sprouts.

Check out more new items at kerbeylanecafe.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MAY/JUNE 2018

23

BEST BEST BEST AMERICAN GERMAN BOHEMIAN PILSNER

PILSNER

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Top Texas Winery 2018 Houston Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition

Try a taste of Comfort.

LARGE BREWPUB OF THE YEAR – Great American Beer Festival 2016 + 2017; Rocket 100 – Gold Medal, American-Style Pilsener, GABF 2015 + 2017; Industry Pils – Gold Medal, German-Style Pilsener, GABF 2016; Velvet Revolution – Gold Medal, Bohemian-Style Pilsener, GABF 2017 ®

142 Lindner Branch Trail, Comfort, Texas

830-995-2948 | bendingbranchwinery.com

university of texas press Texas BBQ, Small Town to Downtown Photogr aPhs by W yat t M c s Pa d d e n A decade after he celebrated traditional, wood-smoked ’cue in Texas BBQ, Wyatt McSpadden captures the new urban BBQ scene epitomized by Franklin Barbecue, as well as small-town favorites such as Snow’s in Lexington.

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$39.95 hardcover

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KINGSBURY BLUEBERRY FARM pesticide-free blueberries This small, family-owned farm with a pick-your-own operation caters to a strong, established customer base. Call ahead to make an appointment and check berry availability.

979-567-9138; 760 County Road 316, Caldwell

o c n l a B t i i s V

MARBURGER ORCHARD blackberries and strawberries This small, family-owned farm offers pick-your-own berries by appointment in May and June and encourages visitors to call ahead or check the website for daily posts on availability and pricing. The staff offers visitors a brief explanation of berry-picking best practices before getting started and encourages visits on weekdays as well as on weekends; availability is on a first-come, first-served basis.

830-997-9433; 559 Kuhlmann Rd., Fredericksburg marburgerorchard.com

SWEET BERRY FARM blackberries and strawberries This larger pick-your-own operation boasts not only pick-yourown berries, but also activities for kids, which include the Sweet Berry Express Barrel Train, sand art and event space for birthday

Enjoy our beautiful town and celebrate all things Lavender Blanco Lavender Festival June 8-10 2018 visitblancotexas.com

parties. Popsicles and jams are available for sale, as well. Picnic tables are free to use and guests are welcome to pet the farm animals.

Call ahead or check the website for details to ensure availability.

830-798-1462; 1801 FM 1980, Marble Falls sweetberryfarm.com

TEXAS BLUEBERRY FESTIVAL Start the day with the Running of the Blueberries 5K—a race that dogs are welcome to join (and they will be rewarded with a commemorative bandana). Afterward, enjoy a lineup of blueberry-centric, Americana-themed entertainment, including pie-eating contests for both children and adults, cooking demonstrations and live music.

Downtown Nacogdoches; June 9, 2018, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. tbf.nacogdoches.org

THOMAS FAMILY BERRIES pesticide-free blackberries This family-owned operation offers pick-your-own berries by appointment only. Kids or the young at heart will delight not only in berry-picking, but also checking out the animals on the farm.

979-865-9796; 12753 Hahn Rd., Sealy thomasfamilyranch.com

THREE COUSINS’ STRAWBERRY PATCH strawberries Visit this family farm and they’ll give you a basket, some scissors and a quick lesson on picking strawberries. Then you can go into the field and pick to your heart’s content. Just call ahead before you go, as strawberry season typically goes until mid-May in Central Texas.

830-480-2060; 575 Rutledge Rd., Poteet Find more pick-your-own berry farms at edibleaustin.com

Homegrown tomatoes cure all that ails me.

8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. | 512.288.6113 | www.naturalgardeneraustin.com

FOLLOW US! EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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25

edible ENTERPRISE

CALLING ALL COOKS

BY K R I ST I W I L L I S

W

alk into any Austin restaurant from Torchy’s Tacos

there,” says Executive Chef Drew Curren of ELM Restaurant

to Jeffrey’s and you’ll most likely find that it’s under-

Group. “When you put that sous-chef, executive-chef or gener-

staffed. In early March 2018, Poached Jobs, a website

al-manager ad out there, you get a lot of hits. But the real trou-

that posts jobs in the food and drink industry, listed 689 open

ble is the line cooks. Anything that’s in the entry level of ten to

positions locally, and the Food, Beverage and Hospitality sec-

fourteen dollars an hour—no one wants to do that anymore…and

tion of Austin’s Craigslist had more than 2,000 posts. We took

that’s what makes everything happen. We incentivize employees

a quick survey of some of Austin’s most spotlighted restaurants

to get their friends to work for us and yet we’re still understaffed.”

and found that 80 percent had open line-cook positions, and all

Restaurants have equal difficulty finding front-of-the-house

had at least one open position from hostess to dishwashers. In a

staff in the same pay bracket. “Hiring great servers who have

lightning-fast-growing city seemingly teeming with eligible peo-

personality, intelligence and a great image are rare finds,” says

ple seeking employment, what could be the disconnect?

Principal Tom Kenney of Napa Flats Wood-Fired Kitchen. Jacob

“Seven years ago, when we opened Contigo, we would have

Weaver, executive chef at Juliet Italian Kitchen, agrees. “Everyone

ten to twenty cook applicants every time we posted a job open-

feels like they should be a bartender or server instead of a busser,

ing,” says Ben Edgerton, co-owner of Contigo and Chicon. “Now,

back-waiter or host,” he says.

we literally have zero on some of the postings we make.” Bryce

With restaurants opening daily around town, competition is

Gilmore of Barley Swine and Odd Duck commiserates. “We’re

fierce and turnover is extremely high; employees often leave to

currently looking for three cooks and we aren’t really getting any

chase the next new hot spot. And when a large hotel, such as the

applicants,” he says. “We post on social media, recruit at culinary

JW Marriott or Fairmont Austin opens, applicants are lured by

schools and Poached has been the best for serious referrals. But at

not only higher wages but benefits like health care. “The idea

this point, we aren’t even getting responses to Poached postings.”

that starting at a place and mastering the milestones needed to

The kitchen shortages appear to be clearly focused within a

advance is gone,” says Executive Chef Philip Speer of Bonhomie

certain pay bracket, too. “High-level and managerial labor is out

Restaurant. “Boredom and complacency set in quickly, and people

26

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will literally chase fifty cents or a dollar before spending time somewhere to learn something. At interviews, candidates seem surprised when you question why they’ve only worked three months here and six months there.”

To counterbalance the short supply of labor, restaurateurs are being forced to get creative—from starting new training programs to paying bonuses and even funding ride-share opportunities for employees without transportation. Juliet Italian Kitchen started a program to groom and train more of its staff by having them shadow and assist in serving and bartending roles until an opening is available for them to move up. “Now that we have a track record of doing this, it’s a little easier to convince people to come on in in a support role,” says Weaver. “As an added bonus, our servers and bartenders who started in support roles are some of our strongest front-of-the-house team because they had to work for it.”

Taking care of staff is a priority that Gilmore says he learned from his dad, Jack Gilmore of Jack Allen’s Kitchen. “It’s our job as

SETTING THE STANDARD IN SUSTAINABILITY At US Foods®, we’re committed to leading the way in sustainable, responsible solutions. Through initiatives like our Serve Good® program, we ensure responsible food sourcing, develop products that help reduce waste and have established strict packaging standards. Because we’re dedicated to serving well and serving the greater good.

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chefs to get the best out of people,” he says. “But it’s also important to make sure they have an environment they can grow and thrive and be happy in.” So, in addition to paying higher wages, Gilmore has begun offering things like employee bonuses for referring new team members and for staying with the company for six months to a year. “I wish we could pay more than we do because the cooks deserve it,” he says. “We make up for the lack of financial compensation by finding incentives in other ways: a positive working

For more information about our offerings and programs, including Serve Good, contact your US Foods representative or visit usfoods.com.

environment, a beer or two at the end of the shift…little things can make a difference. We want to motivate people in others ways, but people have to live. The cost of living is going up.”

Because restaurant jobs, by nature, are lower paying and the cost of living in Central Austin is so high, many restaurant workers commute from neighborhoods in far north, south or east Austin. For suburban restaurants in far west Austin, the lack of transportation translates to fewer job applicants because there are so few bus routes.

Austin’s transportation system can create real challenges for restaurant workers living in Central Austin, as well. Most buses don’t run after midnight, but most cooks and dishwashers working night shifts don’t end their shifts until well after that hour. “If you don’t have a car or work somewhere you can ride your bike, then you can’t work at night,” says Gilmore. “We have a dishwasher at Odd Duck who doesn’t have a car and can’t work some night shifts because he can’t get the bus to go home. If we want him to work that shift, we have to buy him an Uber ride.”

Of course, the labor shortage ultimately has an impact on diners, too—reflected on menus and in wallets. Restaurants face an unpleasant dilemma: raise menu prices, lower food costs by buying cheaper product or pay employees less and run the risk of being short-staffed. “Supply-and-demand would dictate higher menu prices so that we can pay our cooks a livable wage,” says Edgerton. “But raising prices in a competitive market is a very scary thing to do.”

Roasting fresh coffee daily in East Austin for over 20 years.

The next time you order that favorite burger, it may cost a dollar more. But before grimacing, glance back at the kitchen. Chances are, that extra dollar goes directly to supporting the hardworking, lower-paid staff and servers in a city that’s getting more and more difficult for many to afford.

1400 E 4th St. Austin, TX www.texascoffeetraders.com 512.476.2279

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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27

local HEROES

2018 WINNERS

BY L I N DSAY STA F FO R D M A D E R

T

he recipients of this year’s Edible Austin Local Heroes Awards represent the remarkable synergy that makes our food and beverage community so vibrant. It’s largely be-

cause of their collaborative efforts that these culinary trailblazers have made such an impact. They are truly a team to celebrate.

John and Kendall Antonelli opened the shop in Hyde Park in 2010 (some of us probably knew about good cheese before we knew about craft beer). Austinites can gain this delicious knowledge by visiting Antonelli’s retail counter, where the friendliest cheesemongers provide ample samples and explain styles, flavors, origins, processes also offers in-depth classes at the Cheese House across the street.

CHEF/RESTAURANT: BRYCE GILMORE, ODD DUCK Long before Austin restaurants widely embraced the idea of using local ingredients, Bryce Gilmore was attempting to source the components of his entire Odd Duck menu from farms and ranches around the city. This was almost a decade ago, when Odd Duck was a food trailer, and many area farmers hadn’t started selling wholesale.

So Gilmore developed strong relationships with producers, and it was his attention to quality and flavor—and fearless creativity in the kitchen—that earned him acclaim and led to the opening of Barley

Antonelli’s sourced cheeses are sold at numerous restaurants throughout the city and at a second location in Fareground food hall.

In addition to cheese and accompaniment boards, Antonelli’s serves dishes such as macaroni made with eight specialty cheeses and a green salad with double-cream blue cheese, bacon and pear. As they keep moving forward, the Antonellis have stayed true to their own company mission, #DoGoodEatGood—offering employees health benefits and living wages, and partnering with local and international cheese artisans who use sustainable and humane practices.

Swine in 2010 and the brick-and-mortar Odd Duck in 2013.

Despite the proliferation of new eateries across town, Odd Duck has remained a relevant favorite. Much of this has to do with Gilmore’s innovative yet solid and approachable menu, with items such as a chicken-fried fish head, or smoked duck and duck egg anchored by massive browned tots, all served on unpretentious antique plates you might find on your grandmother’s table.

It’s almost impossible to track Austin’s farm-to-fork personalities and successes back to one moment or one person, but it’s undeniable that Gilmore and Odd Duck played a crucial role, while bringing local producers along for the ride.

FOOD SHOP: ANTONELLI’S CHEESE SHOP

FOOD ARTISAN: CONFITURAS

It’s not surprising that Austin has just one stand-alone cheese

To be a food artisan, one must take ingredients, like paint on a

shop considering the impressive work done each year by Antonelli’s.

brush, and thoughtfully create a product that is a beautiful and deli-

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Photography of Antonelli’s by Andrew Bennett and confituras by Casey Woods

and pairings. And if that weren’t fun enough, the Antonelli’s team

cious sum of its parts. This is precisely what Stephanie McClenny does when making Confituras jams and preserves—otherwise known as magical little jars of fruit and sugar that can instantly elevate a piece of toast, wedge of cheese or glass of whiskey. “The act of preserving is a bit more of a challenge than that of everyday cooking,” says McClenny, who founded the business in 2010. “Every element has to make sense in terms of beauty, flavor and safety.”

Confituras offers seasonal flavors such as ginger-peach in summer, and uses local ingredients when possible, such as strawberries from the Hill Country. In January 2018, McClenny opened Confituras Little Kitchen, offering her fruit preserves, adventurous gourmet salts, jam-and-yogurt parfaits and what is possibly the best vessel for her canned concoctions: perfectly golden-brown biscuits, freshly baked in squares with heritage grains from Barton Springs Mill. The towering, flaky layers must be seen to be believed.

FARM/FARMER: RAIN LILY FARM, KIM BEAL AND STEPHANIE SCHERZER While you won’t find Rain Lily Farm at the weekend market or at local restaurants, this is for good reason. Almost all of Rain Lily’s vegetable bounty goes to its sister business, Farmhouse Delivery, which brings the fresh and flavorful produce to front doors across Texas. Steph Scherzer, a former manager at the Natural Gardener, started Rain Lily in 2003 with her partner, Kim Beal, and opened Farmhouse Delivery three years later. Aligned with Scherzer’s goal to connect people to their food, Farmhouse has grown to deliver about 1,700 weekly orders featuring produce, meats, eggs, prepared foods and even meal kits sourced from a variety of local farms.

Despite having a more “virtual” market, Rain Lily’s peaceful home in East Austin has become a pivotal gathering place—hosting music, arts and culinary events among the four acres of shaded grass, and rows of tomatoes, greens, flowers and fig and olive trees. (It also has chickens and multiple bee hives.) “When Kim and I bought this property,” says Scherzer, “we just wanted to open it up. We wanted to have community; a sacred space where people come together.”

BEVERAGE ARTISAN: WATERLOO SPARKLING WATER The 2017 launch of Waterloo Sparkling Water was significant, not just because this Austin-based startup is giving La Croix a run for its money, but also because the sweet fruitiness bubbling out of the colorful cans almost defies logic. How can flavors so bold have no sugar, calories or sodium? Waterloo says this is because it creates its flavoring formulas in-house and uses vapor-distilled water, cold-force

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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29

Mother’s Day Luncheon Sunday, May 13

Wine Tasting Annual Events~ Wine Club Private Events ~ Library Tasting Hours: Monday - Thursday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

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carbonation, aromas captured from the steam above boiling fruit, and oils obtained from high-pressure squeezing. What results is stronger-tasting water, available in original, lemon, lime, grapefruit, black cherry, watermelon and coconut.

Waterloo is named after Austin’s 1839 moniker and embraces its roots with a team of local beverage industry leaders, including Daniel Barnes of Treaty Oak Brewing & Distilling, Brandon Cason formerly of Deep Eddy Vodka, and Sean Cusack of Mighty Swell sparkling cocktails. The beverage can be found at Austin bars, restaurants, grocery stores and Whole Foods Markets around the U.S. With no plans to slow down, Waterloo hopes to soon roll out Non-GMO Project certification for its ingredients.

Photography by Hunter Townsend

www.beckervineyards.com 830-644-2681 Directions: 11 miles east of Fredericksburg, 3 miles west of Stonewall, off US Hwy 290 at Jenschke Lane.

NONPROFIT: AUSTIN FOOD AND WINE ALLIANCE Since 2012, the Austin Food and Wine Alliance (AFWA) has provided 31 grants totaling nearly $200,000 to creative culinary efforts throughout Central Texas. In fact, in 2017, AFWA donated a whopping $50,000 to eight recipients, including Georgetown’s Snodgrass Farms, which produces meat from free-range animals and runs a veterans-outreach program. This grant total was the most in the organization’s history and quite the evolution from its initial three grants in 2012 that totalled $20,000. “Our goal was simply to fuel the great ideas and community commitment of our chefs, artisan producers and farmers, and to inspire innovative culinary projects that provide a direct benefit back to the community,” says AFWA Executive Director Mariam Parker. And AFWA has its eye on the next generation of culinary minds by hosting a career conference for hundreds of high school students each year.

All of AFWA’s fundraising events are focused on culinary innovation, including the Austin Food + Wine Festival and the Official Drink of Austin Cocktail Competition. And, just announced this spring, Willie Nelson’s Luck, Texas Grant will provide $5,000 to one deserving chef.

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31

COOKING FRESH

SOMETHING ABOUT

BERRIES

by STEPHANIE MCCLENNY photography by CASEY WOODS

H

umans have long had a love affair with berries—both wild and cultivated—for their deliciousness, versatility and beauty. Native Americans first used berries in tinc-

tures to treat pain, heart ailments and infections, and they may have even invented the first energy bar known to man—a nutrient-dense food called pemmican made from protein (most likely from elk, deer or bison), animal fat and the ever-present berry.

Today, we have the privilege of easily picking up multiple varieties of seasonal berries from our markets, or harvesting them from wild patches all around Central Texas.

Yes, there can be apprehension and confusion about eating wild berries. Many, like elderberry and white mulberry, are toxic when unripe, yet perfectly edible when ripe, and some, like dewberries and cloudberries, grow almost exclusively in the wild and may not look familiar when encountered. But ask any Texan and they’ll most likely tell you there’s nothing quite like the taste of a warm, wild dewberry fresh from the vine; well worth the work of picking and the risk of encountering chiggers, snakes and thorns.

Other native wild berries worthy of a day of picking are tart and earthy agarita berries, dark and sometimes bitter huckleberries and the prolific mulberry (although not considered a “true” berry by some standards).

Due to the vast landscape, varying hardiness zones and multiple microclimates here in the Lone Star State, we’re lucky enough to enjoy strawberries grown in the Hill Country west of Austin,

BLUEBERRY-BAY SHRUB SYRUP Makes 10–12 ounces Making fruit shrubs, also known as drinking vinegars, is simply an old-fashioned means of preserving fruit, and a popular route to a lovely modern cocktail. Feel free to swap the bay out for fresh basil, Mexican mint marigold or your favorite herb from the garden.

For the syrup: 1 c. fresh blueberries ½ c. red wine vinegar ½ c. sugar (or to taste) 1 fresh or dried bay leaf In a blender or food processor, combine the blueberries and vinegar and puree until very smooth. Combine the puree with sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the fresh or dried bay leaf to the pot and bring to a simmer—stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves completely. Taste the mixture until you achieve the strength of herb flavor you prefer and adjust for sweetness, if needed. This can take anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat, strain through a fine-mesh sieve and allow to cool. Once cooled, transfer the shrub to a glass jar or container and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

For the soda or shrub: 1 Topo Chico 1½ oz. gin or vodka (optional)

blackberries in northern counties near Dallas and blueberries in the acidic soils of East Texas. Feel free to swap out any berry in the following recipes—there is seemingly no end to the versatility and simple heavenly deliciousness of the berry.

Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of shrub mix with 8 ounces of cold Topo Chico over a few ice cubes for a refreshing homemade soda. Make a delicious cocktail by adding gin or vodka to the soda mix.

STRAWBERRY PALOMA Makes 4 drinks In Mexico, a traditional Paloma is almost always made using tequila, lime and Fresca or Jarritos grapefruit soda. Not one for conforming, I love bending the rules a bit and riffing on the seasons at any given time.

This puree makes enough for you and a friend to drink while you catch up. As you imbibe, continue to top off the drinks with Topo Chico to make it “Ranch Water” style.

For the strawberry puree: 1 pt. (8 oz.) ripe strawberries, rinsed, hulled, coarsely chopped 2 T. sugar (plus more, depending on the sweetness of your berries) Squeeze of fresh lime juice Toss the chopped strawberries, sugar and lime juice in the pitcher of a blender or in a deep bowl and leave at room temperature to macerate for about 15 minutes until the sugar dissolves and the berries start releasing 34

MAY/JUNE 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

their juices. Puree in the blender or with an immersion blender until smooth. Taste for sweetness—adding more sugar or lime, if desired. (I prefer my cocktails on the tart side.) Once it tastes right, pass the puree through a fine-mesh sieve using a spatula to get rid of the strawberry seeds. Chill until ready to use.

For the cocktail: ¼ c. strawberry puree 1½ oz. tequila blanco (El Jimador is a favorite) 1 t. fresh lime juice 2 T. fresh grapefruit juice Topo Chico, to taste Pour the strawberry puree into a tall glass. Add the tequila, lime and grapefruit juices and stir gently. Transfer to your favorite glass, add ice and top with Topo Chico, to taste.

STRAWBERRY SKILLET CORNCAKE WITH BUTTERMILK GLAZE Makes a 9-inch round I love a good everyday cake—especially one that’s not too sweet. This cake makes a mighty fine breakfast, coffee break nibble or a simple dessert, and can be made on a whim with ingredients you probably already

Heat the oven to 375°. Grease a 9-inch cast-iron skillet or another heavy baking pan with butter. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and the sugar until light

have in the pantry. I prefer the toothsome crunch of coarse-ground yellow cornmeal here, but you could use fine-ground, too.

and fluffy—about 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time—stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Beat in the cornmeal.

In another bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. With the mixer on low speed, add the dry ingredients a bit at a time, alternating with the buttermilk until just mixed. Gently fold in half of the strawberries with a spatula. Scrape the batter into the greased pan and place in the oven.

For the corncake: ½ c. (1 stick) softened butter, cut into large pieces (plus more for greasing the pan) ¹⁄³ c. sugar 2 large eggs 1 c. coarse-ground yellow cornmeal 1½ c. all-purpose flour 2 t. baking powder ½ t. baking soda ½ t. salt 1½ c. fresh buttermilk 1 pt. (8 oz.) fresh strawberries, hulled, halved or chopped, divided For the buttermilk glaze: 2 T. buttermilk ¼ c. powdered sugar

After about halfway through the baking time (25 to 30 minutes), arrange the other half of the berries on top of the batter (this will prevent them from sinking to the bottom of the batter in the pan). Bake until the corncake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean—about another 25 to 30 minutes.

Allow the cake to cool slightly, then drizzle with the buttermilk glaze while still warm. True Texans serve it right from the pan.

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BLACKBERRY KETCHUP Makes 2 cups In our not-so-distant culinary past, ketchups were ubiquitous condiments made from anything from mushrooms to beets to bananas. This blackberry ketchup will have you madly seeking out ways to use it. Think: a glaze for ribs or meatloaf, slathered on a turkey burger or as a dip for sweet potato fries.

1 pt. (8 oz.) fresh blackberries ½ c. red wine vinegar ½ c. water 1 large shallot, chopped coarsely 3 c. packed brown sugar (or to taste) ¼ t. ground cloves 1 t. ground ginger 1 t. ground cinnamon ¼ t. cayenne pepper ½ t. salt

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Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat—stirring occasionally. When the mixture begins to boil, reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the juices in the pan appear to thicken a bit— about 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Place the contents into a blender (or use an immersion blender) and puree. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl to remove the seeds, if preferred. Pour into a glass jar or container, cool and store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Due to the pectin content in the berries, the mixture will thicken considerably after cooling; thin with a bit of water over low heat before using, if desired.

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PEOPLE

CHRIS MULLINS AND STEVE LEININGER

BY K AT H L E E N T H O R N B E R RY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

S

teve Leininger and Chris Mullins operate LA 1 Cajun and

Leininger attended Le Cordon Bleu—graduating in 2008. “I’m

Creole, a food trailer in East Austin named for the high-

glad I went,” he says with a laugh. “But everything we make in

way that winds diagonally across much of Louisiana’s cu-

this trailer, I learned how to cook before I left Louisiana.”

linary-gold country, from the Gulf of Mexico to Shreveport. Lo-

“We met, naturally, at a dive bar on Airport Boulevard,” Mullins

cated next to St. Roch’s Bar (which they also own), the trailer is

says with a laugh. “I think it was Barfly’s? Neither of us wanted to

a modest two-man operation that focuses on many of the Cajun

set foot in a cube farm again, so we decided to open a bar together.

and Creole dishes of New Orleans. The duo personally cooks

And here it sits,” he says, gesturing to the modest stucco building

every order of crawfish-stuffed beignets, jambalaya, étoufée and

next to the trailer. “Like an island at the end of East Sixth.”

poutine, as well as makes every po’boy. “Even the roux for gum-

“We didn’t intend to open a dive bar,” Mullins adds with ex-

bo,” Leininger says, “which I whisk on the stovetop for forty-five

aggeration while knitting his brow. “We just wanted to open the

full minutes. Even in the summer. In a metal box with no AC. It’s

kind of bar we like to go to…one with decent prices, where it’s

brutal. Maybe we should think about hiring someone?” he says,

quiet enough to have a conversation.” Bars where adults can have

looking over at Mullins.

a conversation are rare enough in Austin, and St. Roch’s attracts

Mullins grew up in North Carolina, where he lived until 1990,

a loyal clientele. “We didn’t intend to have a restaurant, either,”

and then decided to run away and…join the circus. No really, he

he continues. “The building has no kitchen. But we started mak-

joined Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus (though, is it re-

ing jambalaya and étoufée for [New Orleans] Saints games using

ally running away if you’re 21?). He traversed the country working

crockpots, and making po’boys behind the bar, and it just grew

concessions with the circus for five years, eventually settling down

from there. Until we opened the trailer, we just gave it all away

in Seattle. There, he continued to work for both Ringling Bros. and

for free.”

Disney on Ice. The Internet was starting to take off in the mid-’90s,

“Plus, we didn’t think anyone in Austin was making po’boys

however, and startups were blasting off all over the West Coast.

right,” Leininger adds. “It’s the bread,” he says, leaning in close.

Mullins wasn’t one to sit on the sidelines, so he moved to San Diego

“To make po’boys right, you have to use Leidenheimer bread. And

and started an online skateboard company. The company did well,

your seafood’s got to be straight from the Gulf.”

but eventually the work grew routine, so he sold the business and moved to Austin, on the lookout for new adventure.

LA 1 ships in the iconic Leidenheimer bread from New Orleans twice a week. “Po’boy bread can’t be chewy like a baguette,” Mul-

Leininger was born in New Orleans, and he grew up immersed

lins says, “It’s got to be squishy enough to bite through; the bread

in that city’s rich local bounty and deep culinary traditions. “The

should squish, not the filling. You don’t want your fried oysters

first thing I learned to cook was crawfish,” he says. “My daddy

shooting out of your sandwich onto the plate, and you’re left with

taught me. Now that I think about it, he probably taught me be-

a mouthful of bread.” Mullins and Leininger hope to make LA 1 a

cause he got tired of doing it himself!” He went off to college

brick-and-mortar restaurant in the next year or two. If the lines in

at SMU, then worked in Denver, then back to New Orleans do-

front of their trailer are any indication, the place will be packed

ing web design. When Hurricane Katrina made landfall, he was

from the minute they turn on the sign.

among the many New Orleans refugees who came to Austin and stayed. “Though I had a career in design, I knew my strongest talents were in the kitchen,” he says. Abruptly changing course,

LA 1 Cajun and Creole is located at 515 Pedernales St. For more information, visit la1cajun.com or call 512-788-5380.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MAY/JUNE 2018

39

TOUR. TASTE. EXPERIENCE. AUSTIN’S GRAIN-TO-GLASS WHISKEY DISTILLERY

Visit our “grain-to-glass” whiskey distillery where we do it all in-house: milling, mashing, fermenting, distilling, barreling and bottling.

Enjoy tours, tastings and whiskey cocktails in our Tasting Room.

Explore bold new whiskeys as unique as the city we call home.

STILL AUSTIN WHISKEY CO. 440F East St. Elmo Road Austin, TX 78745 (512) 276-2700 www.stillaustin.com @Still_ATX

40

MAY/JUNE 2018

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StillATX

@StillATX

texas VARIETALS

THE LONE STAR STATE OF ROSÉ

BY KRISTI WILLIS

To further quench the thirst of rosé-loving Texans, Chris Brundrett, one of the co-founders of William Chris Vineyards, joined forces with Andrew Sides, co-founder of Lost Draw Cellars, to create Yes We Can Winery. The collaboration’s new release is Sway Rosé (Mourvèdre, carignan, muscat, viognier, malvasia bianca), the first rosé made from 100-percent Texasgrown-grapes that’s available in a can—perfect for any outing that requires an ice chest.

With rosé wine continuing to gain in popularity, Texas winemakers are upping the ante and bottling more rosés each season.

Instead of the yellow rose, perhaps pink rosé will become the recognized symbol of the Lone Star State.

LOOK FOR TEXAS ROSÉS FROM THESE WINERIES

I

f Texas has a state wine, could it be rosé? It’s true, the exceedingly popular pink vino may not seem like the ideal dance partner for our leathery and larger-than-life Texas swagger, but this

dry, crisp wine keeps up every step of the way with its versatility, big flavor and body that’s light enough to tame our oppressive heat.

Fortunately for us, the grapes used to make rosé in Mediterranean climes are the same grapes that thrive in Texas. Grapes such as Mourvèdre, cinsault, carignan, tempranillo and aglianico may not be as familiar to wine lovers as cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and chardonnay, but in the hands of talented Texas winemakers, they shine bright and pair perfectly with everything from spring greens to a backyard barbecue.

Texas rosés range in color from a light salmon-pink to a pale ruby, with aromas that range from strawberry to watermelon.

Bending Branch Winery High Plains Rosé (cinsault) Brennan Vineyards Dry Rosé (Mourvèdre and grenache) Dandy Rosé (Mourvèdre, cinsault, grenache, carignan) Duchman Family Winery Dry Rosé (aglianico) Kuhlman Cellars Hensell Rosé (Mourvèdre) Lewis Wines Parr Mourvèdre Rosé McPherson Cellars Les Copains Rosé (cinsault, carignan, vermentino) Pedernales Cellars Dry Rosé (cinsault, Mourvèdre, syrah) Spicewood Vineyards Mourvèdre Rosé Tatum Cellars Rosé (Tatum Cellars is the second label of William Chris Vineyards) William Chris Vineyards Cinsault Rosé, Tannat Rosé, Petillant-Naturel Rosé, Grenache Rosé Yes We Can Winery Sway Rosé

GUIDE TO THE GRAPES WINE

ORIGIN

GRAPE SIMILAR IN STYLE

Aglianico

Campania and Basilcata, Italy

Merlot

Cinsault

Southern Rhône, France

Grenache

Mourvèdre

Southern France

Pinot Noir

And unlike the sweet rosés that used to be very popular, Texas winemakers have opted for a drier style that’s a bit lower in alcohol content than their deeper-red cousins. Many Texas rosés are made from a blend of red grapes, but there are also several single-varietal rosés, often from Mourvèdre or cinsault.

In addition to the outstanding still rosés being made around the state, William Chris Vineyards offers a sparkling Petillant Na-

and Spain

turel rosé. This blend of cinsault, malbec, Mourvèdre and petit

Tinta Cão

Portugal

Pinot Noir

verdot is made using the Methode Ancestrale—a process used

Petit Verdot

Bordeaux

Cabernet Sauvignon

Tannat

Southern France

Cabernet Sauvignon

Tempranillo

Spain and Portugal

Cabernet Sauvignon

Touriga Nacional

Portugal

Cabernet Sauvignon

before the method for making Champagne was created. No extra yeast or sugars are added to the wine before being bottled for fermentation, and the result is a lightly bubbly, slightly cloudy rosé that’s worthy of any Texas celebration.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MAY/JUNE 2018

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edible EXCERPT

THE BROKEN SPOKE EXCERPT USED WITH PERMISSION BY TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY PRESS. COPYRIGHT DONNA MARIE MILLER.

The Broken Spoke opened on November 10, 1964, as a one room saloon located about a mile outside the Austin city limits. Photo by James White.

I

n “The Broken Spoke: Austin’s Legendary Honky-Tonk,” au-

The day James received his honorable discharge from the army,

thor Donna Marie Miller leads us around the dance floor (al-

at twenty-five years old, he began building the one-room honky-

ways, always counterclockwise) of one of the only remaining

tonk and called it the Broken Spoke. It opened November 10, 1964,

authentic honky-tonks left standing in Texas. Other than a few

about a mile outside what was then the Austin city limits. For the

inside counters, a coat or two of paint and an added dance floor,

grand opening, guitarists Dave Perry and Johnny Rex performed.

things around the Spoke simply haven’t changed that much, and

James paid the musician-singers in free beer and barbecue. He

that’s just the way owners James and Annetta White have always

also gave away three hundred plates of brisket and plenty of cold

wanted it. Once inside the door, the music, smells, atmosphere—

beer that day to customers.

sometimes even faces—are pretty much the same now as they were when the doors opened in 1964.

Joe’s [James’ stepfather] friends spread the word that the Broken Spoke had opened for business. In the days that followed Joe re-

Miller lays out a rich history of loyal community, tradition

mained an ever-present and imposing force at the Broken Spoke, so

and some unexpected surprises at the Spoke. We hear tales about

much so that some patrons came to believe that he owned it. How-

Skeeter, the one-time bar resident spider monkey; regular custom-

ever, Annetta says that the Broken Spoke managed to stay open and

er “Crazy Too Cool Carl” Anderson, who’s famous for rolling the

operated on a shoestring budget only thanks to James’s hard work

Spoke’s iconic and heavy wooden wagon wheel into the building

and good credit. “We didn’t have a dime to spare. When we sold one

and all around the dance floor whenever Alvin Crow performed;

case of beer, we went and bought another case. We had ten dollars in

and about that time Pauline Reese rode her horse through the back

a cigar box when we opened. We didn’t have a cash register, and the

door. All of this low-ceiling, boot-scootin’ charm and grit is framed

one we got first didn’t have a tape. We used two cigar boxes—one for

by performances from some of the biggest names in country-west-

incoming and the other one for outgoing,” she says.

ern music over the years; lots and lots (and lots) of beer; and what

“We hadn’t been in business long when we got a state audit;

many say is the best chicken-fried steak ever to grace a thick oval

that’s when our CPA told us to get a register with a tape.” Because

plate. Here’s a little more from the book to whet your whistle:

the Broken Spoke would not obtain a mixed-beverage liquor license EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MAY/JUNE 2018

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James and Annetta White. Photography by Will van Overbeek.

until 1980, James sold “setups,” such as 7 Up and Coca-Cola, and both bottled and canned beer. Patrons also brought in bottles of liquor wrapped in brown paper sacks, a practice they referred to as

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“brown baggin.’” “Guys got drunker then, because they looked at their bottle and figured that they’d only had a couple of inches left

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and they might as well drink what was left rather than cart the bottle home,” he says. James recalls that he sold beer for twenty-five

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cents a bottle or premium beer like Schlitz, Budweiser, or Miller High Life for thirty cents. He sold setups with a glass of ice for thirty cents each. “Basically we had to sell four beers to make a dollar, and we didn’t clear that much because of the price of our beer;

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our overhead cut into everything,” James says. “I used to bartend sixteen to seventeen hours a day out here. I learned to pop two beers in each hand, and I could pop beer as fast as I could sell it.”

On busier nights, thousands of beer-bottle caps littered the floor.

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Soon news about the place spread; before long the Broken Spoke filled to capacity nearly every night. Doris Gerald “D. G.” Burrow and the Western Melodies often played a Sunday gig at the Broken Spoke. James paid the band thirty-two dollars a night,

Left to right: Ashley Carey, Alvin Crow, Stephanie Crow, Carl Anderson, Cathy Green, Don Green, James White and Annetta White.

Photography by Rick Henson.

which amounted to quite a bit of money back then. James asked customers to donate to a band fund by passing around a tip jar that he called “passin’ the kitty.” James seldom collected more than twenty dollars, but the tips offset his costs to hire a band. His first mistake was allowing band members and waitresses to drink all the beer they wanted. “Come to find out, the waitresses were getting too drunk, so I had to start charging them. I had one girl who just

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made a hog outta herself like an old sot; she just drank all the free beer, and toward the end of the night she wasn’t worth a flip,” he says. “So I just had to start charging the help. Even today, we charge what we call ‘an employee price,’ which is a little bit less than what the customers pay. They still do a lot of drinking on the side or buy their friends drinks. It’s still hard to try to control that.”

James soon began hiring bands to play Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. He paid Travis and the Western Gentlemen twenty-five dollars to play every Friday; on Saturdays Bill Dorsey and the Melody Drifters played for thirty-five dollars. “We would pack them in.

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It was just solid wall-to-wall people. I would pop beer as fast as I could—four for a dollar, and we’d sell setups. It was just really a big crowd. It was so busy that folks would dance into the dining room and out the front door, right out into the parking lot and then turn around and come back inside dancing,” he says. “Back in those days a lot of people would dress up more than what they do today, as far as wearing a coat and tie. They would want to look their best— shine their shoes and put on their dancing shoes.”

Even back then stepping into the Broken Spoke often felt like a flash out of the past—it looked like the dance halls of the 1940s and 1950s that James remembered visiting as a boy. James built a place that people would always remember for its appearance, its live music, and its good food.

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edible DIY

YEASTED WAFFLES

BY RACHEL JOHNSON

A

couple of opinions about food that I stand by: Hot dogs over

with leftovers, these waffles keep well in the fridge for up to five

hamburgers, cakes beat out pies and pancakes don’t stand a

days. Just be sure to respect the waffle and use the toaster to reheat.

chance against waffles. Yes, hot, crispy waffles straight out of

You may not be in my camp when it comes to the great waf-

the iron are the stuff of my weekend dreams; a tradition I like to ob-

fle-versus-pancake debate, but if there’s one thing I know for sure,

serve when I’m craving a great start to a relaxing Sunday. And when

it’s that we can all come together over breakfast. Friends are al-

that craving hits, I’m going straight for overnight yeasted waffles.

ways invited to my weekend table, where there will most likely

The tangy, yeasty batter rises higher than a basic baking-soda waffle—yielding a light, yet chewy, waffle with a crispy exterior

be waffles, lots of warm maple syrup and a good cup of coffee waiting. Cheers to breakfast!

that just screams for syrup. The best part is that these waffles are prepared the night before. If you want to serve them for breakfast (or dinner, we aren’t judging) the next day, simply mix the ingredients, cover with plastic wrap and let rise in the fridge overnight.

Take the batter out 30 minutes before setting the table—letting the waffle iron do the rest of the work. Minimize cleanup with a generous amount of nonstick cooking spray, and be sure to place the iron into a high-sided baking sheet for when the inevitable batter spillover happens.

OVERNIGHT YEASTED WAFFLES Makes 8 waffles (or 6 Belgian-style waffles) 1½ c . whole milk, room temperature 6 T. butter, melted, cooled 1 T. sugar ¾ t. kosher salt

1 t. vanilla extract 2 large eggs, room temperature 2 c. all-purpose flour 1 .75- oz. packet active dry yeast

Think of the original recipe for overnight yeasted waffles as a blank canvas: Add fresh blueberries or raspberries directly into the batter, or dip cooked waffle “soldiers” into melted butter and cinnamon sugar. If you’re feeling extra dangerous, use the waffles as the foundation for an epic breakfast sandwich. The world is truly your waffle. With a relatively low-sugar batter, waffles welcome creative toppings. Skip the traditional and go savory with bacon, chives and sour cream, or stick with sweet by piling on caramelized bananas, chocolate chips and/or a drizzle of almond butter. If you end up

In a large bowl (the batter will double in size), combine all ingredients.

Whisk until combined (the batter will be lumpy). Cover the bowl securely with plastic wrap and let the batter rise in the fridge overnight, or at least 8 hours. When risen, set the batter on the counter for at least 30 minutes prior to cooking—stirring once. Preheat the waffle iron and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Scoop ¹/³ cup of the batter into the center of the iron and close the lid. Bake until golden brown—about 5 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter. Serve immediately, or keep in a warm oven until ready to serve. Serve with butter and a generous amount of maple syrup.

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BUCKETHEAD’S LITTLE BROTHER NOW IN BOTTLES This NW-style pale ale has Magnum, Cascade, Callista, Denali hops offering a hoppy character less likely to lead to public indecency.

.beer

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MAY/JUNE 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

OVERNIGHT WHOLE-WHEAT YEASTED WAFFLES Makes 8 waffles (6 Belgian-style waffles) 2 c. whole milk, room temperature 6 T. butter, melted, cooled 1 T. sugar ¾ t. kosher salt 1 t. vanilla extract 2 large eggs, room temperature

1 c. all-purpose flour 1 c. whole-wheat pastry flour ½ t. cinnamon 2 T. wheat germ 1 .75 -oz. packet active dry yeast

In a large bowl (the batter will double in size), combine all ingredients. Whisk until combined (the batter will be lumpy). Cover the bowl securely with plastic wrap and let the batter rise in the fridge overnight, or at least 8 hours.

When risen, set the batter on the counter for at least 30 minutes prior to cooking. Preheat the waffle iron and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Scoop ¹/³ cup of batter into the center of the iron and close the lid. Bake until golden brown—about 5 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Serve immediately, or keep in a warm oven until ready to serve. Serve with butter and a generous amount of maple syrup.

Love chocolate? Visit edibleaustin.com for an Overnight Chocolatey-Chip Yeasted Waffle recipe.

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REAL FARMERS WHO MAKE

REAL WINE

Vineyard manager Jake Terrell and his dog, Willie.

From our farm to your table.

Authentic Sonoma wines, handcrafted from Sonoma County grapes.

©2018 Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com

CENTRAL TEXAS FOOD BANK

Eat. Drink.

Laugh.

Share.

COME AND GIVE IT

512-353-2739

150 South LBJ Dr.

Help us turn a table for two into dinner for fifty.

H

San Marcos

unger is a serious issue in Central Texas, where one in six of our neighbors doesn’t know where their next meal will come from. That’s why the Central Texas Food Bank

(CTFB) is always looking for fun, creative ways to engage the community in helping us serve those in need.

With that in mind, mark your calendar for Austin Restaurant Weeks, August 16 to September 3, 2018. This new CTFB fundraiser is a two-week-long dining extravaganza featuring specially priced lunches, dinners and cocktails at restaurants throughout the greater Austin area.

For restaurateurs, it’s a great opportunity to help fight hunger while providing new patrons an economical way to dine with them. And for diners, it’s a way to help our neighbors in need while enjoying some of the best dishes this amazing, food-driven city has to offer.

Here’s how it works: Participating restaurants will offer special prix-fixe lunches and dinners—a two- to three-course lunch for $25 per person; a three- to four-course dinner for either $35 or $45 per person; and special cocktails at $8 each. A portion of the cost of each is earmarked for CTFB. At the end of the two weeks, participating restaurants will make a donation directly to the food bank based on the number of special lunches, dinners and/or cocktails they sold. Diners will not be directly solicited for donations, and because Austin Restaurant Weeks is planned entirely by volunteers, 100 percent of the contribution from each meal or cocktail goes directly toward fighting hunger in Central Texas. All you have to do is enjoy a delicious meal to help others get the food they need.

Central Texans have always come through for CTFB to help us serve 46,000 people each week. We’re excited to work with our local restaurants to offer this new way to help! For more restaurant and reservation information—or to become a participating restaurant—visit austinrestaurantweeks.org. And be sure to follow Austin Restaurant Weeks on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram for all the latest news and updates. —Chief Development Officer Mark Jackson, Central Texas Food Bank EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MAY/JUNE 2018

51

THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS

Bending Branch Winery

Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings available daily.

512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. 111 Congress Ave. antonellischeese.com

Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thursday through Sunday.

830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Bloody Revolution

From the rolling hills of Wisconsin to the Swiss Alps, we produce some of the world’s finest cheeses. emmiroth.com

From Bloody Revolution Gourmet Mixes in Austin, TX comes a nothing-else-needed Bloody Mary Mix that’s as great for cocktails as it is for cooking. Start a REVOLUTION! bloodyrevolution.com

Gillen’s Candies + Wine

Craft Pride

Emmi Roth

Chocolate shop, wine bar and market.

A place to come experience a myriad of flavors. Enjoy cheese, coffee, jerky and craft beer. Taste olive oil and vinegar on tap.

1725 S. Hwy. 281, Blanco 830-833-3233 gillenscandies.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer!

Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal.

512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 1135 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd., Ste. 200 512-502-5949 1905 Aldrich St., Ste. 150 ilikelick.com

A Texas-only craft beer bar serving up the highest quality beer from regional breweries. With 54 taps and a knowledgeable staff, it’s an inviting space for dedicated beer lovers and casual drinkers alike.

512-428-5571 61 Rainey St. craftprideaustin.com

Civil Goat Coffee Cafe, roastery and artisanal wholesale coffee.

512-792-9929 704 N. Cuernavaca Dr. civilgoats.com

KTonic Kombucha Proudly brewed in Austin. We produce Texas’ only 100 percent organic, low-sugar and all-tea kombuchas. Our delicious varieties are great on their own or added to your favorite spirit. ktonickombucha.com

BEVERAGES Messina Hof AquaBrew Brewery & Beer Garden Craft beer, culinary delights, local music and community all meet here.

Come get a taste of what we’re all about.

512-353-2739 150 S. LBJ Dr., San Marcos aqua-brew.com

Est in 1977. Messina Hof is a family owned winery based on the three cornerstones of family, tradition & romance.

979-778-9463 4545 Old Reliance Rd., Bryan 830-990-4653 9996 U.S. 290, Fredericksburg 817-442-8463 201 S. Main St., Grapevine messinahof.com

Becker Vineyards

MAY/JUNE 2018

Tito’s Handmade Vodka

Republic Whiskey has notes of rich oak and vanilla bean fading into dark cherry, with a bold finish like a West Texas sunset. Barreled and bottled in Austin, Texas at Texacello LLC. 512-291-7797 2905 San Gabriel St., Ste. 309 republictxwhiskey.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery.

Gluten-free!

512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

Thirsty Planet Brewing Co. Richard’s Rainwater Made between heaven and Earth in Dripping Springs, Texas. The first bottled rainwater in the U.S., est. 2002.

Sparkling and still water sold in restaurants and small groceries across Austin.

512-466-3286 thecloudjuicecompany.com

Perrisos Vineyards Only one hour west of Austin, Perissos Vineyards is passionate about using only Texas-grown fruit to produce exceptional wines. Casual atmosphere.

512-820-2950 7214 Park Rd. 4, Burnet perrisosvineyards.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Thirsty Planet Brewing Company is a craft brewery located in Austin, TX. Now available in twelve packs! Brewed with passion, committed to the planet.

New tasting room opening on South Congress.

512-579-0679 8201 S. Congress Ave. thirstyplanet.beer

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more!

512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy.

512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards For more than four decades, the wines of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards have reflected the finest mountain and valley vineyards in Sonoma County.

888-675-9463 100 Pythian Rd., Santa Rosa, CA stfranciswinery.com

Still Austin Whiskey Co. Whiskey distillery.

512-276-2700 440 E. Saint Elmo Rd., Bldg. F stillaustin.com

Texas Coffee Traders East Austin’s artisinal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail.

512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Texas Keeper Ciders

Winery, vineyards and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale.

Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest.

830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall 307 E. Main St., Fredericksburg beckervineyards.com 52

Republic Whiskey

Local cidery making dry, small-batch ciders from 100% pressed juice. Beautiful taproom in far South Austin open to the public Friday through Sunday, and weekdays for private events.

512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years!

512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media.

800-252-3206 utexaspress.com

EVENTS Hill Country Food Truck Festival Featuring a number of food trucks, wine and a lineup of live Texas music from noon until 9:30 p.m. on Saturday, June 24, in Luckenbach, TX. luckenbachtexas.com

Palm Door Our facilities boast a total square footage of 7255 versatile indoor and outdoor space available for private events for groups up to 1000. Each section can be customized to suit the needs of creative and functional events.

512-386-1295 508 E. 6th St. 512-391-1994 401 Sabine St. palmdoor.com

Wein & Saengerfest Wine and music festival in the heart of New Braunfels, on Saturday, May 5.

Admission is free!

830-221-4057 weinandsaengerfest.com

edible austin MARKETPLACE FIND A MARKET NEAR YOU!

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LAKELINE

f r ie n d ly f u n f e s t i ve

Farmers Market Guide

organic produce • pastured meats • live music • prepared foods • local artisans Every Saturday 9 to 1 in the back parking lot of Barton Creek Square Mall overlooking the city.

EdibleAustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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Whim Hospitality The Whim Hospitality family of services includes catering, event and tent rentals and florals. Separately, or as a package of services, we help make your next event memorable.

512-858-9446 2001 W. Hwy. 290, Ste. 107 Dripping Springs whimhospitality.com

FARMERS MARKETS Sustainable Food Center SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food.

512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

HEALTH AND WELLNESS Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods.

512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd.

512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets.

830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

The Herb Bar

FARMS 44 Farms Founded and Family-owned since 1909 in Cameron, 44 Farms is the U.S. premier producer of ethically raised Angus beef. Our ranchers produce beef with no added hormones, antibiotics or artificial ingredients. New retail store open in Cameron, TX. 254-697-4401 963 PR 44, Cameron 1509 S. Hwy 36, Cameron 44farms.com

GROCERS

Best place to cure what ails you and a resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate.

512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Weston Table Weston Table seeks to provide beautiful online entertainment driven by a passion to share extraordinary experiences, personal memories and cherished traditions.

617-899-4907 14 Irving Rd., Weston, MA westontable.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format.

Catering too!

512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. 512-524-0740; 1645 E. 6th St. royalbluegrocery.com

Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural and organic products.

512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd.

512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon Dr. 512-690-2605 5001 183 Toll Rd., Bldg. A, Ste. 100 wholefoodsmarket.com

Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants.

Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments.

Beautiful gifts.

512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices.

Free lectures most Sundays.

512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die.

512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices.

512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

LODGING AND TOURISM Blanco Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center The heart and hub of the Hill Country.

830-833-5101 300 Main St., Blanco blancochamber.com

Fredericksburg Convention and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines.

888-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental.

830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

REAL ESTATE Green Mango Real Estate Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single realtor.

512-923-6648 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com

Judd Waggoman Real Estate Your ultimate source for luxury real estate in Los Cabos. Ranked #1 Realtor in Los Cabos, Mexico by InMexico Magazine.

530-751-6797 judcaborealestate.com

RESTAURANTS Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

Barlata Tapas Bar

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Located in the heart of South Lamar.

Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas.

Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us.

512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Austin Label Company

Cannon + Belle

Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings.

Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Bronko Box Recycled plastic moving boxes for rent.

512-815-0234 bronkobox.com

Merchant Cafe Inc. Harbortouch is a leading national supplier of point of sale (POS) systems, credit card processing equipment and a full range of merchant services.

866-973-9988 9901 Brodie Ln., Ste. 160, #712 harbortouchgeorgetown.com

US Foods US Foods is one of America’s leading food distributors servicing restaurants, healthcare, hospitality, government and educational institutions.

800-572-3889 usfoods.com

Cannon + Belle is a dynamic, multi-station open kitchen restaurant featuring a delicious Texas-fresh menu plus specialty tap wine and cocktail program.

512-482-8000 500 E. 4th St. cannonandbelle.com

East Side Pies Fresh, local thin crust pizza - we know what you want.

512-524-0933 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 G Airport Blvd.

512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Flyrite Chicken At Flyrite, we believe fast food should be real food. Our delicious sandwiches, wraps and shakes are fresh and made to order. Drive Thru. Eat Well!

512-284-8014 2129 E. 7th St. 512-243-6258 6539 Burnet Rd. flyritechicken.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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A festival of flavor, culture and exploration! slowfoodnations.org

JULY 13 –15, 2018

Denver,Colorado

Parties • Tastings • Workshops • Family Activities • Taste Marketplace • Talks

G’Raj Mahal

Kerbey Lane Cafe

Opal Divine’s Austin Grill

Vinaigrette

G’Raj Mahal offers the best of Austin’s atmosphere with a combination of traditional and innovative Indian comfort food coupled with local music.

512-480-2255 73 Rainey St. grajmahalaustin.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes!

512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com

Opal Divine’s Austin Grill serves American and Southwestern cuisine. Offering locally sourced food, local craft brews and cocktails and Austin’s best whiskey selection!

A farm-to-table restaurant serving entrée salads and botany-inspired drinks/cocktails. Patio dining and parking available. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

512-852-8791 2201 College Ave. 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, NM 505-842-5507 1828 Central Ave. SW, Albuquerque, NM vinaigretteonline.com

Intero Ristorante An Italian inspired menu that highlights the changing seasons in Central Texas.

Embracing the importance of sustainability with locally raised animals and farmed produce.

512-599-4052 2612 E. Cesar Chavez St. interorestaurant.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

Jobell Cafe & Bistro

Lenoir

We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country.

512-847-5700 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service.

512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients.

512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

512-443-6725 2200 S. I-35 512-733-5353 12709 N. Mopac Expy. opaldivines.com

SPECIALTY MARKETS

ThunderCloud Subs For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Founded in 1975 with the simple philosophy of selling a great sub at a reasonable price. Now with 30 locations throughout Central Texas.

512-479-8805 thundercloud.com

Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered.

512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, Texas 78624 www.littlechef.com ∙ info@littlechef.com 830.997.4937

What's for dinner?

Search our database of over 1000 recipes perfect for every season.

Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 info@littlechef.com www.littlechef.com

fresh

rustic

i n t i m at e DINNER TUESDAY-SUNDAY 5-10 LUNCH TUESDAY-SATURDAY 11-2 BRUNCH SUNDAY 10:30-2:30

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

512.847.5700 JOBELLCAFE.COM 16920 RANCH ROAD 12 WIMBERLEY, TX EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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EDIBLE INK

Strawberries were once the symbol for

Venus, the Goddess of Love, due to

by Bambi Edlund

their bright red color and heart shape.

Who needs white strips?

Got your eye on someone special?

Legend has it that sharing a double strawberry means you are destined to fall in love.

We have a runner!

Take two and call me in the morning

Many Native American tribes considered strawberries to be medicine as well as food.

They were used to purify the blood, and to treat stomach issues.

Ground wild strawberry leaves were applied to burns to speed healing, and were also used to prevent infection in newborn babies.

Strawberries have been proven to effectively whiten teeth, due to the presence of malic acid.

Strawberry plants send out long tendrils called runners. When the runner reaches the ground nearby, it roots into the soil and starts a whole new plant.

If you want to get technical...

Keeping the elves happy

Bavarian farmers tied small baskets of wild strawberries to the horns of their cows, as an offering to the elves that help the cows produce healthy calves and a good supply of milk.

Strawberry seeds do not need soil to germinate, only light.

Storage tips

Strawberries do not ripen after they are picked, so select bright red berries.

Refrigerate until ready to serve, ideally arranged in a single layer on a paper towel. Do not wash until you are ready to serve them, as water makes them break down more quickly.

Strawberries are the only fruit with seeds on the outside. Botanically speaking, though, each of those yellow bumps is an ovary containing a seed, which means each is technically a separate fruit!

YOU CALL THEM RESTAURANTS — WE CALL THEM

culinary art studios Hill Country cuisine | over 40 wineries and tasting rooms | museums & historic sites | peaches & wildflowers German heritage | golf | sophisticated shopping | festivals & events | eclectic art galleries | cycling | live Texas music

VisitFredericksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600

Post-workout, pre-workout, or because you’re not working out. #Smoothies #MakesMeWhole