No. 39 March/April | Outdoor 2015
速 Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season
The
OUTDOOR Issue
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CONTENTS outdoor issue 6
Publisher’s Note
8
Notable Mentions
12
Notable Edibles
bRUNch, Austin Food & Wine Alliance grants, Office of Sustainability update.
16
Edible Endeavor
Pogue Mahone Pickles.
18
Edible Traditions
Fiesta Tortillas.
22
Edible Endeavor
Wahoo’s Seafood Co.
28
Cooks at Home
Mark Paul.
48
Edible Hospitality
The forces at the front of the house.
58
Cooking Fresh
Spring lamb feast with Hill Country wines.
70
What I Eat and Why
“J” is for jam.
72
Edible Gardens
Romancing the tomato.
74
Hip Girl’s Guide To Homemaking
The fluff stuff: homemade marshmallows.
78
La Casita de Buen Sabor
Mercurial March in a bowl.
80
Department of Organic Youth
A little green witch.
81
The Directory
24 28
OUTDOOR features 24 Indian Hills Farm Learning patience from a handful of pecans.
32 The Biodynamic Way Being in balance with nature for sweet results.
36 Breed ’Em Horns One couple’s commitment to an iconic Texas animal.
40 Eden East Embracing the challenge of seasonal outdoor dining.
44 Feral Conquering the intimidation of processing animals.
65 Niman Is a Pig’s Best Friend Creating a better way for pig ranchers.
COVER: F eeding Indian Hills Farm’s newest addition, Buddy (page 24). Photography by Pauline Stevens.
16
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
PRESERVING THE LAND
PUBLISHER Marla Camp
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt
C
onservation of our earth below the firmament has
EDITOR
been eloquently championed in this country for de-
Kim Lane
cades by poets such as Wendell Berry and scientists such as Wes Jackson of the Land Institute. In many parts of the world, the land still holds ancient truths and is revered, but increasingly there is a global grab for its resources and treasure—not for preservation, but for consumption.
This issue is dedicated to those who are aware of the delicate balance between use and abuse and seek to live in sync with the natural world. We are lucky to have an “Outdoor” issue. As I walk through a meadow or along a creek bed, I often wonder how long humans will have the privilege of inhabiting the surface
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Jordan
COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Melinda Barsales, Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall Michelle Moore
of this planet before having to swathe themselves in a protective dome or journey
ADVERTISING SALES
through space to find inhabitable worlds. Science fiction-esqe, perhaps, but not
Curah Beard, Valerie Kelly, Christine Kearney
so unimaginable! Herein, we tell the stories about the preservers in our midst in the form of pickle-maker Sam Addison and longhorn cattle ranchers Don and Debbie Davis. We
DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Greg Rose
write of the Picos family of Fiesta Tortillas, who continue to adhere to unadulterated recipes using non-GMO and organic grains. We reveal the mystical-seeming attributes of biodynamic farming and how farmer Bill McCranie grows off-thecharts-sweet blueberries by farming in harmony with the lunar calendar. And in true DIY outdoor-style, we present Feral, where under the watchful eye of Chris Houston, hunted bounty is hand butchered and packaged for multiple
CONTACT US
seasons’ worth of delicious family dining. And as long as we’re on the subject of
Edible Austin 1411 A Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com
DIY-ing, Hip Girl Kate Payne reveals the magic of making marshmallows at home for a sublime s’mores experience in your own backyard or on your next campout. We must not take this earthly plane for granted. If we can simply live upon it gently and give back what we take from it, it is all we need. And don’t forget to plant your tomatoes. Jessica Robertson tells us her top 10 picks for 2015. It’s spring!
6
ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle
OUTDOOR 2015
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $30 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2015. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
A P R I L 2 4 - 2 6 , 2 015
learn learn
TASTE taste TASTE
Featuring:
HUGH ACHESON JAMIE BISSONNETTE & KEN ORINGER RICHARD BLAIS TYSON COLE JASON DADY GRAHAM ELLIOT BRYCE GILMORE ANTONIA LOFASO JENN LOUIS TIM LOVE TONY MANTUANO PAUL QUI CHRIS SHEPHERD LEVON WALLACE JONATHAN WAXMAN TANDY WILSON ANDREW ZIMMERN and many more!
experience experience
BUY TICKETS AT austinfoodwine.com
notable MENTIONS FEATHERED FRIENDS FLOCKING TOGETHER Ever wonder from where that neighborhood morning crowing emanates? Now is your chance to find out. Join Austin friends and families on Saturday, April 4, for a citywide tour featuring the homes of your feathered friends. The 7th annual Funky Chicken Coop Tour begins at tour headquarters at Sunshine Community Gardens with educational booths, activities and lots of chickens. For the early birds, there’s a free class at 8:30 a.m.—the self-guided tour officially begins at 10 a.m. and lasts until 4 p.m. Along the way, participants will visit the city’s chicken owners and their coops, and hear tales of poultry-raising experiences. The Tour is produced by and benefits the nonprofit Urban Poultry Association of Texas, which THIRD
educates people about the benefits of raising poultry as part of a
AL ANNU
healthy urban food production system. Tickets are available online for $8 per person or $10 on tour day. Children 12 and under are free! Visit austincooptour.org for tickets and updates.
Last fall, we asked readers to vote for local food heroes
w
who are making a major contribution to our food community. In our next issue, we’ll write about what
DE A SA M P L I L I C I OU S NG O C F VA U I S I N E A R I OU N S WIN D Saturd FAY E a y, Mar ES T ch 21 1 5 1 N T E C OU R . WASH THO USE I NG T S QUA ON, R LA G R A NG E E
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makes them truly compelling, but for now, here’s a
20
15 WINNERS
glimpse at our winners:
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Hosted by LA GRANGE MAIN STREET and LA GRANGE AREA CHAMBER GOLD SPONSORS
ocal Her
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ANNOUNCING OUR LOCAL FOOD HEROES!
SILVER SPONSORS
Restaurant/Chef—Dai Due, Jesse Griffiths: The opening of the brick-and-mortar location of Dai Due last year has elevated Griffiths role as a locavore chef—a mission he’s been on for many years. Food Shop—Antonelli’s Cheese Shop: John and Kendall Antonelli showcase artisanal and locally produced cheeses. Farm/Farmer—Springdale Farm, Glenn and Paula Foore: The Foores not only grow, but educate people about sustainable food. Food Artisan—Confituras: Stephanie McClenny sells her award-winning jams, jellies and preserves to local and national fans. Beverage Artisan—Tipsy Texan: David Alan was an early—and is a continuing—outspoken voice for Texas’s craft cocktail scene. Nonprofit—Sustainable Food Center: SFC promotes affordable, sustainably raised food as the catalyst to strengthen our community.
It’s official.
11am to 6pm Aussn, TX
Sign UP to participate at texasvegfest.com!
www.texasvegfest.com INFO@TExasvegfest.com
Photos By Austin Vivid Photography
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
SPRINGTIME FOODIE FESTIVAL ROUNDUP Austin is known for its festivals, and not just the musical kind—gastronomic goings-on abound this season, with an array of food and wine festivals around the area. Visit edibleaustin.com for a complete listing of the full schedule. Here are some highlights.
AUSTIN FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL It’s time again for a frenzied weekend of noshing and sipping at The Austin Food & Wine Festival. Presented by Food & Wine Magazine, the weekend-long series of events includes a highly anticipated lineup of top chefs, winemakers, sommeliers and gourmands from around the U.S. and Austin’s own renowned foodie scene. This year’s festival kicks off Thursday, April 23, with Feast Under the Stars, a special prelude event at Auditorium Shores featuring a one-of-a-kind dining experience that offers a locally sourced, five-course meal prepared by five award-winning chefs from the festival. Then on Friday, April 24, the festival jumps into full swing at Republic Square Park, with three days of artisanal food, wine, beer and spirits from hundreds of purveyors; dozens of demonstrations and tasting sessions; panel discussions and taco duels; a pastry party at Mellow Johnny’s and—of course—live music. Here’s your chance to imbibe alongside more than 40 acclaimed chefs, including Hugh Acheson, Richard Blais, Alexis Chong, Sonya Coté, Todd Duplechan, Tim Love, Paul Qui and Callie Speer. A portion of the Festival’s proceeds benefits The Austin Food & Wine Alliance, which is dedicated to fostering awareness and innovation in the Central Texas food and wine community (see story on their recent grant recipients on page 14). For tickets and full schedule, visit austinfoodandwinefestival.com
DOWNTOWN LA GRANGE GETS UNCORKED Barely an hour east of Austin sits a tiny town that’s a fun destination for wine lovers—La Grange, which hosts the third annual La Grange Uncorked on Saturday, March 21. The event features more than a doz-
presents
en restaurants and businesses lining the historic town square and offering samples of select wine, specialty dishes prepared by local chefs and live music, benefiting La Grange Main Street and the La Grange Area Chamber of Commerce. Visit lguncorked.com for details.
GET SPIRITED AWAY IN SUGAR LAND Located just southwest of Central Houston, the historic town of Sugar Land hosts the 11th annual Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair,
APRIL 8 - 12, 2015
April 8–12. The popular festival includes spirited events such as a VIP kickoff dinner, a Whiskeys Around the World seminar, an upscale Grand Tasting with more than two dozen chefs, a bartenders challenge, a sip and stroll through the historic Imperial Sugar Factory and a bistro brunch in Sugar Land Town Square. For more information, visit sugarlandwineandfoodaffair.com
SugarLandWineandFoodAffair.com Facebook.com/SugarLandWineandFoodAffair
Benefitting the
Conrad N. Hilton College of Hotel and Restaurant Management EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
OUTDOOR 2015
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CHILDREN’S PICNIC AND REAL FOOD FAIR IS BACK A world of fun, food and wellness returns to the French Legation Museum for the 3rd annual Children’s Picnic and Real Food Fair on Sunday, March 29, from 1 to 5 p.m. The fair invites families to one of the city’s oldest properties for an afternoon of M A R C H 13 - 22
workshops, cooking demonstrations and family-friend-
festivalweek 2015
ly interactive activities with opportunities to learn about gardening, beekeeping, wellness and how to have fun with food.
day and night parties with nice folks, awesome bands, great food & delicious beer.
Children can explore the Imagination Playground, provided by Austin Parks Foundation, dance to live music and plant squarefoot gardens to take home. An array of local farmers, artisans and
theabgb.com / festival2015
vendors will be on hand with delicious handmade tastings, and home picnics are also welcome. This free event is presented by the SANDE Youth Project, Edible Austin and the French Legation Museum. Visit edibleaustin.com for more information.
A DAY OF PLANT-BASED PLEASURE AND PRIDE Vegetarians, vegans and anyone who just loves eating plants can delight in the Texas VegFest on Saturday, April 4, at Fiesta Gardens on Lady Bird Lake. This free festival is a celebration that honors lifestyle choices to improve health, preserve the environment and encourage animal welfare. Participants can enjoy educational lectures and cooking demonstrations, partake in family activities and feast on fresh and
lunch. dinner. MUSIC. 1305 w. oltorf theabgb.com
plant-based food offerings. The festival will be held from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visit texasvegfest.com for more information.
THANKS FOR ALL THE SUDS AND PORK!
Public Classes Distance Learning Professional Chef Training
Big shout-out from Edible Austin and co-presenter Eat Boston to all of our generous sponsors and participating vendors in the 2nd annual Austin Bacon and Beer Festival this past January. More than 30 restaurants and a dozen breweries served up the best of bacon- and beer-inspired tastes to a sold-out crowd of craft brew and pork enthusiasts to raise over $10,000 for Capital Area Food Bank (which translates to over 25,000 meals to hungry Texans). Thanks to bacon sponsors Niman Ranch and Lone Star Foodservice, contributing sponsors RideScout and Wheatsville Food Co-op (who also hosted the sold-out Porchetta Butchering and Cooking Class taught by Chef Andrew Curren). Sign up at edibleaustin.com for
www.naturalepicurean.com
|
1700 South Lamar Blvd Austin TX 78704
Witness the live-action rebuild of the 1686 French ship La Belle and discover an incredible story through rare artifacts, films, and programs for all ages!
1800 N. CONGRESS | AUSTIN, TEXAS
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OUTDOOR 2015
EXHIBITION ON VIEW THROUGH MAY 17, 2015
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
early notices on ticket sales for next year.
GET DOWN ON THE FARM Come out and spend a perfectly lazy Sunday afternoon with us. The 6th annual East Austin Urban Farm Tour is happening on Sunday,
DEER LAKE LODGE
April 12, from 1 to 5 p.m. Four of Austin’s urban farms will once again
RE S ORT & SPA
open up their gates to the community, allowing you the chance to
Experience a lifestyle change and develop new healty habits
stroll the acres that source some of Austin’s freshest food around. Meet the farmers from Boggy Creek Farm, HausBar Farm, Rain Lily Farm and Springdale Farm, eat some bites from Austin’s finest restaurants, and have a sip from Central Texas’ best beverage producers. There will be a raffle this year, too, offering various farm-inspired goodies. Tickets to the four-farm tour will help raise funds for Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance, an organization aiding independent family farmers and helping to protect a healthy food supply for Americans. Visit eastaustinurbanfarmtour.com for tickets.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT AT SXSW INTERACTIVE Channeling the energy of Austin’s vibrant food community, the South by Southwest Interactive Festival is expanding its youngest program, SouthBites. SouthBites is a three-day-long conference hosted at the Driskill Hotel (with some featured sessions at the Austin Convention Center), Saturday, March 14 through Monday, March 16. SouthBites
SPA | WELLNESS | CLASSES
brings together a culinary culture of innovative food artisans and food experts to share and explore creative ideas for transforming
10500 Deer Lake Lodge Rd., Montgomery, Texas
936-647-1383
our food industry with technology. Join Edible Austin for a South-
DeerLakeLodge.com
Bites panel discussion on Monday, March 16, from 3:30 to 4:30 p.m., “Preserving Local Food Artisans by Going Global.” Moderated by Edible Austin publisher Marla Camp, panelists Anna Smith Clark (Get Gone Traveler), Sam Addison (Pogue Mahone Pickles) and Stephanie McClenny (Confituras) will discuss the challenges of developing local markets for food products and how to gain national and international exposure through online marketplaces and recognition programs. SouthBites sessions and events are open to all SXSW Interactive, Gold and Platinum registrants. And stop by to refuel at the SouthBites Trailer Park, 604 Driskill St. (southeast corner of Cesar Chavez and Red River). The food trailer park will host some of the area’s best mobile restaurants, serving up delicious meals straight from their trucks—along with copies of
512.464.1184
Edible Austin—to SXSW participants as well as the general public, every day from 11 a.m. to midnight, March 13–21. Visit sxsw.com for comprehensive festival information.
Paige Newton Photography
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OUTDOOR 2015
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notable EDIBLES
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DASH AND DINE
R
unners in a Sunday group jog used to be lucky to get a paper cup of water for their trouble. Now, they get bRUNch. The idea
is simple: meet outside a restaurant at 9:30 a.m., run either a 5K or 10K route nearby, then come back to the restaurant and eat a prixfixe meal. Hey, they’ve earned it. The runners like the idea because they have something to look forward to beyond a squirt of power gel; the restaurants like it because they get an instant roomful of endorphin-soaked customers who, even if a little smelly, have worked
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launched bRUNch two years ago in Denver, Colorado, as an out-
Running buddies Alexandra Weissner and Cortney Logan growth of their love for training and eating brunch afterwards at restaurants they wanted to try. “Brunch is always a fun meal after running fourteen miles,” says Weissner. They started inviting friends along and posting pictures of the meals on Facebook. Before too long, they threw together the first bRUNch event, expecting 15 people to show. It drew twice that amount. They started holding bRUNch weekly, and last January, they took the idea to Phoenix, Arizona. Austin seemed like the next best fit. “The passion Austinites have is awesome for food and fitness,” says Weissner, who plans on holding bRUNch every weekend (save race weekends) through early spring. The group charges $25 a ticket in advance ($30 at the door) for the entrée, two drinks, tax and gratuity, and gives a portion of proceeds to the Austin Trail Foundation.
The best way to get around Austin is on a bike.
A typical bRUNch event draws runners of every skill level and age, says Weissner, “from newbies to elite athletes; as young as twenty-three and as old as seventy.” They’re united by the usual concerns of most running groups: races they’d like to do, times they’d like to finish within, aches they’d like to go away. But anoth-
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er topic dominates the breathless and wheezing jogging chatter: places they’d like to eat. bRUNch strives to satisfy those wishes by choosing local eateries that don’t mind serving a customized menu to clientele in sweaty pants. So what kind of brunch food satisfies the empty stomachs of people fresh off a run? “When we work with restaurants on the menu, we always strive for French toast, eggs Benedict and bloody marys,” says Weissner. “Mimosas are a must.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit brunchrunning.com
AND THE WINNERS ARE…
B
ribing the judges with something sweet won’t get you an Austin Food & Wine Alliance grant. To impress this group,
you need to get out of the kitchen and give back to the community. Since launching in 2012, the nonprofit has raised $75,000 to give Central Texas food folks a socially aware kick in the oven. “We look for ideas that are furthering innovation in our food community and that have a strong community giveback component,” says Mariam Parker, executive director of the alliance. The alliance prides itself on never playing favorites with its awards—always careful to recognize farmers, nonprofits and artisan producers in addition to the chefs who normally get all the attention. “Last year turned out to be the year of the food artisan and this year, it seemed to be the year of the farmer,” says Parker. In late 2014, the alliance gave out a record $30,000 to the following five recipients: $10,000 New Farm Institute at Green Gate Farms—a nonprofit teaching organic, sustainable farming to a wide population of aspiring farmers and culinary students. The grant will be used to enhance Green Gate’s farm-to-table classes and expand its volunteer program to reach more underserved groups such as the Multicultural Refugee Coalition. newfarminstitute.org $7,500 Springdale Center for Urban Agriculture—a firsttime collaborative project between urban farmers and local chefs. The grant will be used to plant test plots of heirloom and heritage seeds—boosting the variety of farm-to-table foods available to Central Texas chefs. springdalecenter.org $5,000 Fresh Chefs Society—a two-year-old nonprofit teaching hands-on cooking and healthy eating habits to 16- to 21-yearolds transitioning out of foster care. The organization also introduces these aspiring cooks to local chefs who may help them find a culinary career. The grant will be used to help the organization continue hosting interactive cooking classes that “educate and empower youth with lifetime skills.” freshchefssociety.org $5,000 Growers Alliance of Central Texas—a fiveyear-old cooperative supporting full-time sustainable farmers in Central Texas. The grant will be used to help the organization gain nonprofit status, renew its annual survey of “Truly Local” restaurants and establish a medical relief fund. sites.google.com/site/growersallianceofcentraltexas $2,500 Anjore—Chef Deepa Shridhar’s combination supper club, farmers market and cooking school, focused on her unique approach to Indian fare. The grant will be used to expand this “farm stand” into a pop-up restaurant, which will, in turn, support
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local producers and culinary students. anjoreaustin.com Honorable Mention: Delysia Chocolatier—a premium chocolate manufacturer that opened Austin’s first culinary center devoted to ethically and environmentally conscious-sourced chocolate. delysia.com —Steve Wilson
LET ME CHEW ON IT
W
hen food and public policy meet, most people take a “L’eggo my Eggo” stance; they don’t want government
messing with their food, at least not until they’ve had their say. That’s why Edwin Marty’s initial act as Austin’s first-ever food policy manager in the Office of Sustainability was to give everybody something to talk about. His team’s upcoming food system report, due out in April, will crunch the numbers on how Austin crunches food—the most comprehensive look at the way the city grows, sells, eats, scraps and recovers its grub. “We’ve got a lot of info,” says Marty, who was hired nearly a year ago. “It’ll be a useful tool.” Sound like a boring read? Consider this little tidbit: Five zip codes in Austin don’t have a full-service grocery store. If it’s not economical to get a full-service grocery in those areas, what are the other options? Marty is open to suggestions. “One approach would be a farmers market or farm stand run by students at a local elementary school,” he says. “It would be a way to provide food and teach students about food.” Those are the kinds of ideas Marty wants the report to generate. He plans for it to show the city, nonprofit organizations, commercial businesses and individual neighborhoods how food works in Austin, and spark discussions about how it can work better. Emphasis on discussions—Marty’s saving action until after he gets input. “We’re not going to draw any significant conclusions in terms of what projects need to happen or strategics,” he says. “This is a starting point to see where we’re at.” After publishing the report and gauging reactions to its findings, Marty hopes to pilot some citywide food planning programs by this fall. In the coming year, he’ll approach neighborhoods about more localized food planning ideas. He has reason to be cautious. Last year, when the folks behind East Feast Coalition got approval for a two-acre “food forest” to grow fruits, nuts, vegetables and herbs for anyone to pick at Festival Beach on Austin’s East Side, they figured everyone would appreciate access to fresh, affordable, healthy food. They didn’t count on opposition from East Town Lake Citizens Association and other local organizations angered over outsiders changing the landscape of their neighborhood. “When things are imposed from the outside, you’d be surprised by how much pushback you get,” says Marty. —Steve Wilson For updates, visit austintexas.gov/department/sustainability
“The bright lemon character of Sorachi Ace subtly shines in Brooklyn’s saison.” MEN’S JOURNAL
“Catapults the senses to an unexpected destination ...Teriffic stuff.” EATER
“Fruity, spicy and refreshing...The brightest saison we’ve ever had.” DRAFT MAGAZINE
“I’ve become slightly obsesses with Brooklyn Brewery Sorachi Ace.” ANNE BECERRA FOR SERIOUS EATS
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edible ENDEAVOR
POGUE MAHONE PICKLES BY L ES M C G E H E E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A L I SO N N A R RO
T
here’s a highway of flowcharts scrawled with handwritten
les multiple times a year—giving jars as gifts—and recording
notes and a cascading waterfall of spreadsheets thumb-
every nuance and bit of feedback along the way until he finally
tacked to the bedroom walls of 12-year-old Sam Addison.
achieved what can now only be called his pickling opus.
The year is 1998, yet instead of Smashing Pumpkins or Korn post-
Flash forward to 2011, and Addison lands in Austin with his
ers, Addison has dedicated the space in his room to something a
then-girlfriend, Theresa. He came to town to attend Le Cordon
little different. Welcome to the Lair of Pickling Nerd-dom.
Bleu College of Culinary Arts, but since the pickling bug was
It was during this time that young Addison was pickling regu-
still biting, he decided to start a small business on the side and
larly with his mom, Ann, and grandma Nannie in the Blue Ridge
peddle his pickles at a few local farmers markets. To pay for the
Mountains of Amherst, Virginia. “I had been pickling with them
initial startup, he sold his beloved Hammond XK3 rock organ to
for as long as I can remember,” he says. By the age of 12, Addison
a church for $2,300; his dad also chipped in a little. And he soon
had become obsessed. He had respectfully moved beyond the
discovered the welcoming, generous embrace of our city’s tight
sweet-hot, heat-processed pickle style he was raised with to a
artisan food community by sharing kitchen space at the South
style he would later perfect: cold-pack pickling. And his fixation
Congress complex that houses local heroes Sisters SASS, Oh
manifested on those myriad flowcharts and spreadsheets, where
Kimchi and Confituras. Pogue Mahone Pickles was off and run-
each idea, each tweak, each brine variation and each batch’s re-
ning, and people started talking.
sults were methodically documented. Addison was making pick16
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Who was talking? Anyone who knows pickles. Even as a wee
“I’m obsessed with creating the best of what I look for in a pickle: crispy and superfresh deliciousness.” —Sam Addison startup, Pogue Mahone won a coveted national Good Food Award in 2013 for its Jalapeño Mint pickles. As a matter of fact, it’s one of the few companies—from hundreds of entrants in their category each year—to win a Good Food Award three times in a row. In 2014, it was Pogue Mahone’s Fresh Dill & Garlic pickles that wowed judges and in 2015, it was Texas Sweet Heat. These prestigious awards brought Pogue Mahone to the attention of our fine local food purveyors, and now the pickles can be found at Whole Foods Market, Wheatsville Food Co-op, Fresh Plus, and many smaller neighborhood markets as well as farmers markets across Austin. Addison makes three recipes year-round (Texas Sweet Heat, Fresh Dill & Garlic and Bread & Butter Deluxe) and
local, fresh, delicious PEOPLESRX.COM
limited varieties during each season (Jalapeño Mint in spring, Serrano Lime in summer and Ginger Habanero in winter). He says one of the fastest-growing new products available for restaurants is bulk buckets of large-cut pickles called Big Fat Halves. For centuries, pickling and jarring have been essential to extending the life of food and preventing waste, and much of this process has been accomplished through heat-sealing containers. Because big, hot-pack pickle companies often jar only twice per year, the pickles lose texture and freshness, but they gain a long, unrefrigerated shelf life. Instead of going this route, Addison says his secrets are the perfected cold-pack process and the freshness of his produce. Half of the year, he gets cucumbers grown especially for him in Fredericksburg; for the colder months, he brings in cucumbers from California. “We make pickles every day of every week,” he says. The goal is to get the cucumbers from harvest to jar in 48 hours, if possible, then cold-age them for 10 days before they go to market. “It’s all very fast,” says Addison. “We have a policy of pulling them from the shelves if they hit ninety days, yet we haven’t had any products hit ninety days! I’m obsessed with creating the best of what I look for in a pickle: crispy and super-fresh deliciousness.” Fans seem to agree. But what about that name “Pogue Mahone?” What does it mean? “Years ago, I was visiting my sister in Charleston, South Carolina, who’s married to an Irish surgeon,” Addison says with a wry smile. “I had brought some pickles, and he and I were…heavily under the influence of good Irish whiskey. He ate one of the pickles and said, ‘These are the best damned pickles in the world. Anyone who disagrees can pogue mahone (kiss my arse)!’ I told him that if I ever started a pickle company, that would HAVE to be the name!” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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edible TRADITIONS
FIESTA TORTILLAS BY M EG A N G I L L E R • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K N OXY
The Picos family in their Fiesta Tortilla Factory.
J
aime Picos comes from a tortilla family. That sounds silly,
foods. And because they delivered their tortillas fresh to clients ev-
since tortillas are to Mexico and Texas what bread is to
ery day or every other day, they didn’t need to extend the shelf life.
Europe and rice is to Asia. But Picos’ family specializes in
“That’s how my parents did it,” Picos explains. “And that’s what we
the round beauties: His parents owned a small tortilla factory in
wanted to do, too. Restaurants, in particular, took notice because our
Del Rio, Texas (a border town), for 15 years. And when Picos and
tortillas were always warm and soft.”
his wife, Elvira, moved to Austin in the early 1980s, they knew exactly what to do—make tortillas!
Though Fiesta sold to grocery stores at first, it has long concentrated on the wholesale restaurant market—now selling both flour and corn
They launched Fiesta Tortilla Factory in 1984 with a 6½-inch
tortillas, as well as corn chips, directly to 70 percent of restaurants in
flour tortilla, handmade, Picos proudly boasts, without additives or
Central Texas. Customers, such as Mother’s Cafe, have been loyal for 30
preservatives, from five simple ingredients, just like his mother used
years and Fiesta is still going strong. That’s especially remarkable when
to make at home. “We were ahead of our time,” Picos says—noting
every other tortilleria in Austin has gone out of business (most recently
that Fiesta hit on the public’s growing interest in preservative-free
El Lago) or relocated (most recently El Milagro).
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Picos claims that his company isn’t special and that it was just the luck of the draw. But happy fans are quick to point to the Picos’ good business sense, commitment to the community and high-quality food, instead. You probably love Fiesta’s products and don’t even know it. The addictive chips at Guero’s? Fiesta. The chips that hoist Kerbey Queso? Fiesta. And those famous warm tortillas at Tacodeli? Fiesta again. All of Fiesta’s corn products are GMO- and gluten-free, and the company doesn’t shy away from special requests. They developed
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an organic corn tortilla just for Tacodeli and they’ve worked with Austin Independent School District to fit specific nutritional guidelines. Currently, Picos is taking it to the next level with plans for an organic corn chip recipe and a gluten-free manufacturing facility to completely eliminate possible cross-contamination and better serve Central Texas’ need for gluten-free goods. Central Texas is where the focus remains. “We don’t want to be the Mission Tortillas of the world,” Picos says. “We like where we’re at, and we want to be part of the Austin restaurant scene.” And they want to do it responsibly. When El Lago closed shop recently, Picos took on only as many of its clients as he felt his company could realistically handle. And though Picos fields almost daily requests from companies wanting to buy him out or expand Fiesta’s reach to a national audience, he has remained loyal to his company and to this area. Though it started small, Fiesta now boasts 102 employees, many of whom Picos greets daily in the factory where products are made. The facility also co-packs three other products for a few local companies, including Paqui and Primizie. In fact, Fiesta’s co-packing reputation is so strong that one new client is waiting to launch a product until Fiesta’s gluten-free facility is ready, simply to be able to work with the brand. In light of all the successes, Picos says family still comes first. He says his dad, who passed away a few years ago, was in awe of how the business had developed, and his mom is not only in awe but also works at the factory. “She’s seventy-four years old and a hundred miles per hour,” Pico says with a laugh—noting that she often gets to work before he does. And what does the Fiesta matriarch do? “What-
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ever she wants,” he says wryly. “Because she’s my mom.” Now Picos is prepping for the next generation; his 27-year-old son, Alvaro, has been working for the company for three years. “We’re polishing him up and getting him ready to be our successor.” Yet Picos admits that, much like his mother, he’ll probably still be working in the factory alongside his son, even well into his 70s.
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WAHOO’S SEAFOOD CO. BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S
W
hile there are many
out. Six months into this schedule,
advantages
associat-
though, he moved his family to
ed with the Texas Hill
Kerrville to reduce costs and time spent away from them.
Country, including outdoor activities, wineries, the stunning
To further build business and
scenery, great music, etc., the
spread the word, Thibodeaux be-
availability of fresh seafood is not
gan sellling his fresh catch at the
among them. But things changed
Fredericksburg Farmer’s Market
when Scott Thibodeaux, a native
in 2013—a move that led to a re-
Houstonian with a long Louisiana
lationship with The Peach Basket,
Cajun heritage, and his wife, April,
Fredericksburg’s longtime natural
opened Wahoo’s Seafood Co.
food market. The Peach Basket
Having grown up eating fresh
now sells his fish and seafood ev-
fish and shellfish in Houston,
ery Thursday. Thibodeaux hopes
Thibodeaux noted the glaring
to institute similar liaisons with
dearth of fresh seafood markets
independent markets and restau-
when he and April would visit
rants in other in the Hill Country
the Hill Country. The only types
towns such as Hunt, Bandera and
of seafood they could find were
Boerne and is exploring Austin
previously frozen specimens from
farmers markets during the Fred-
largely unknown sources in area
ericksburg
supermarkets. To address this is-
Visitors to Wahoo’s Seafood can
sue, the couple formulated a plan
expect fresh-chilled Gulf shrimp,
and Thibodeaux put out a few feel-
crabs (and picked crabmeat), oys-
ers to establish relationships with
ters, scallops and sushi-grade yel-
market’s
off-season.
lowfin tuna year-round, plus fresh
important seafood contacts. First up, he engaged a large wholesaler in Galveston who buys fresh shrimp,
seasonal gulf fish, such as red snapper, grouper, flounder and more.
crab and seasonal fish directly from dozens of shrimpers, crabbers
The market keeps a supply of soft-shell crabs, which Thibodeaux
and commercial fishermen plying Gulf of Mexico waters. Next,
freezes because of their short shelf life when fresh, and also features
Thibodeaux found a source for fresh Galveston Bay oysters in San
wild-caught Scottish salmon—one of its bestsellers.
Leon, Texas, and finally, he secured a source for fresh, Texas-farmed tilapia—one of the most widely consumed fish in the nation.
Starting this year, Wahoo’s will also offer live crawfish. Thibodeaux has built a mobile crawfish cooking trailer that will be avail-
The couple rented a small retail space in Kerrville—a locale chosen
able for private crawfish boils. He’ll also visit local fairs and fes-
because of its size and proximity to other smaller Hill Country towns—
tivals—selling boiled crawfish with onions, sausage, potatoes and
and opened the new fish market in September 2012 under the name
corn with a blast of spice and flavor. Crawfish will be available until
“Wahoo’s Seafood Co.,” in honor of one of Scott’s favorite fish to catch.
around the first of July.
Of course, getting all of the procured Gulf bounty to Kerrville to stock
By offering the highest quality, literally fresh-from-the-boat boun-
Wahoo’s chilled glass cases was, and continues to be, a concerted effort.
ty available, Thibodeaux has created a slice of seafood paradise in our
In the beginning, Thibodeaux would drive from Houston to the coast
beloved-but-landlocked Hill Country. He says he gets many requests
on Mondays, load up huge ice coolers of fresh-caught fish and shellfish
for certain fish or shellfish—or for large quantities of an item—and
on Tuesdays, then drive to Kerrville and prepare everything to open
accommodates these requests based on seasonal availability.
Wahoo’s on Wednesdays through Fridays, or until the seafood sold 22
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Wahoo’s Seafood Co., 305 Francisco Lemos St., Kerrville. 830-992-1948
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FARMERS diary
INDIAN HILLS FARM BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY PAU L I N E ST EV E N S
24
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O
ne can learn a lot from a pecan tree. Patience and balance, for instance, are qualities that Hershel (Hersh) and Karen Kendall have been cultivating for almost
30 years. These virtues have been taught, most notably, by the Mohawk pecan—a variety native to Texas and, in particular, the sandy soil that abounds in the rear reaches of the Kendalls’ farm, Indian Hills, in Smithville. On a peaceful winter day, the Kendalls and Karen’s mother, Lou, stand beneath towering tree limbs in their humble but ancient orchard; the pale, knotted trunks majestic sentinels in the muted golden field dotted by dark silhouettes of grazing cows and a few sprightly new calves. Toward the edge of the grove, Karen points out an enclave of the Mohawks. The problem with the Mohawk pecan, Hershel demonstrates, is revealed when one cracks open the nut’s thin outer shell, and the underdeveloped traces of what should have been a hefty, bronze, oblong nut tumble free. Hershel says this is because, under certain circumstances, the Mohawk variety has the interesting problem of dropping plenty of nuts to the ground, but most of which are half-empty. It’s a lesson in balancing quality over quantity that the Kendalls have learned, and now practice, in their own production. Their 169 acres produce a wide bounty—everything from heirloom produce, glowing citrus and grassfed cattle, to fresh eggs and crisp pecans— but always just enough and never too much. To them, the farm epitomizes the ecology and symbiosis of nature, though it’s a nature that is, admittedly, sometimes hard to nurture under harsh heat and with only three attendants. The responsibilities require grit but also afford gratification. When Hersh is out of earshot, Karen whispers with adoration about the pride he takes in the quality he can deliver to customers, week in and week out. And it’s easy to detect this ardor when Hersh’s speech quickens and his feet move more spryly among the garden rows of his cherished Mr. Stripey and Cherokee Purple tomatoes and Asian cucumbers that will come with warmer weather. Even in the dead of winter, during what the Kendalls call the “ugliest time” for their farm, Indian Hills feels prosperous and fertile. A slight breeze flutters the leaves that crack underfoot, yet there are hints of life everywhere: Heavy yellow lemons still cling to branches, roosters caw from their pen, catfish lap the shores of the small pond and Karen carries a bottle of warm milk to the anxious lips of a young calf named Buddy, the farm’s most recent addition. “They say that Central Texas is one of the hardest places to garden because of the temperature fluctuations,” Hersh says. The heat, and the resulting drought, have been some of the most challenging adjustments the Kendalls have had to make. Although the catfish farm—they were still living in Anchorage, Alaska, where they’d moved as a youthful twosome to find part-time work and a rustic venture after college. There, even under the cold cover of snow, the agrarian couple found that everything grew magnificently. “You could just walk out there, dust off the snow, and pull up parsnips and carrots,” Hersh recalls. “And you don’t have bugs, you don’t have diseases, you
lick
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don’t have the heat drying everything up. All the winter crops you
mensely popular and are often the first things to go at the Sus-
grow here in Texas love the Alaskan summers: broccoli, lettuces,
tainable Food Center’s farmers’ markets at Sunset Valley and
carrots, hearty greens, potatoes—especially potatoes—they’re the
in downtown Austin. The farm’s on-site and rentable bed-and-
best you’ve ever eaten up there. But you can’t even grow one here.”
breakfast cottage (complete with morning delicacies courtesy
Karen sighs and shakes her head. “Down here,” she says, “you
of Karen and the farm) also helps. Rounded out by a selection
can put a lot of effort in, but if you don’t get the rain, it just won’t
of seasonal produce and freshly baked granola and breads at the
work. That sun is just too strong.” This is where that patience
markets, Indian Hills continues to represent the diversity, per-
comes in. In order to thrive in this climate, a pecan tree, for in-
sistence, goodness and, yes, patience, that can be learned from a
stance, might produce small nuts as a survival skill in years when
handful of beloved pecans.
the trees are stressed from heat, dryness or disease—it produces only what it can, until more ideal conditions arise. The Kendalls have mastered this, too. During Alaska’s long winters, Karen learned how to can and freeze the produce that wouldn’t last; something she’s started doing here, too—selling jars of pickled ginger carrots, fermented sauerkraut and preserved citrus figs. In addition to fighting the fierce summertime sun in Smithville, there’s also cotton root rot and persistent pests to deal with— all of which Hersh and Karen counter with organic methods, although they are no longer certified. “We just don’t see any need [for certification],” Karen says. “We don’t use anything different than we did. And we found that our customers have come to know us, and they know what we bring to the table, and that’s enough.” And they’re making it. The prime cuts of Black Angus grassfed beef produced from their brawny ebony bulls remain im26
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“I cook with wine. Sometimes I even add it to the food.” —Don Paul
28
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COOKS at home
MARK PAUL BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
T
his story isn’t really about a chef at home. Granted, the
I would come home and we would just order out. But I’m not on
article’s title might suggest otherwise. And granted, Mark
the line nearly as much as I was. I run a business; I do a lot more
Paul’s status as chef and owner of Wink—arguably one of
writing checks than writing recipes at this point, and so with
Austin’s most illustrious restaurants—is well established. But this
that in mind, when I come home, I actually like to cook. I do it
story isn’t about a chef, because when Mark Paul is with his family,
just to keep a practice up now.” And not much has changed this
he prefers to be known as a dad, son, husband and brother—roles
symbiotic kitchen relationship over the years—not when Mark
that he thoroughly relishes; so much so that he gladly lets his fa-
married Amy and had Amelia, not when Don married Barbara
ther Don take the lead tonight as risotto maestro and splash the
and not when Mark’s sister and brother-in-law began joining the
bottom of the saucepot with enough wine to educe a W.C. Fields
dinners. The weekly events have simply been made more rich
impersonation. “I cook with wine,” Don says with a hearty chuckle.
and flavorful through these extra “ingredients.”
“Sometimes I even add it to the food.” Mark also lets his teenage
Once the burners are lit, the oil starts to crackle and the wa-
daughter Amelia undertake the important duty of flipping delicate
ter rolls, Mark steps aside, offering only the occasional stirring
bay scallops around in a pan. Yes, at these weekly dinners in Don’s
hand or light guidance here and there. Of course, his guidance
home overlooking Austin’s hilly western terrain, Wink and chef-
is expertly honed and of extreme value—he’s worked for a host
dom are no more important to Mark than helping Amelia finish her
of distinguished restaurants, the James Beard Foundation and
homework, hearing about wife Amy’s day or deciding which wine
Le Cirque in New York, among them—and was trained as a pas-
to pair with dinner. And that’s the way he likes it.
try chef and baker on a scholarship to Peter Kump’s Institute of
Almost every Sunday night when Wink is closed, this family gathers to cook—and to cook Italian, religiously. This is because
Culinary Education in New York. He knows what he’s doing in a kitchen. But his role tonight is relaxed and reposed.
Don typically makes the menu decisions and he’s unabashedly in
Now, Don and Mark stand side by side, whispering and con-
love with Italy—he even jokes about having an Italian social se-
ferring about the status of the risotto. Like best friends, they dip
curity number. Tonight, they’re making seafood risotto inspired
spoons into the pot, heads bowed close, and slurp synchronous-
by one of Don’s yearly visits to his beloved Italy, and he’s quick
ly. Mark says no more acid; Don says more salt. They both nod,
to point out that the dish is even themed by the colors of the
then Don heartily flicks more salt into the pot. The only part of
Italian flag—white rice, red tomatoes, green spinach. Don is do-
the meal that Mark seems insistent upon handling is the final
ing most of the cooking, whether by choice or because he has
plate presentation—a way to assert an artistic aesthetic that, ac-
to—risotto, after all, requires constant attention. But the role
cording to both Amy and Barbara, has always been a part of him.
reversal is natural and unchallenged.
Soon, lovely floral-printed plates make their way out to the
After his mother passed in 1995, Mark moved in with Don.
dining table on the deck. The delicate mounds of ivory risotto
“We were like roommates,” Mark says. “And this is what we
are flecked with the plump tomato chunks and wilted stripes of
did—we cooked together.” Their amicability, despite ceaseless
spinach, and cradle tender chunks of scallops, crab, shrimp and
jesting, is evidence of the hours these two have logged sharing
twirls of lemon zest. As the day fades into night, carried by lilt-
burners and foot-space on the tile floor. “He’s become more of a
ing piano notes and subtle slants of light, the family unites to
primary on Sunday nights, now,” says Mark. “Whereas, ten years
say grace. Then, the breadbasket is passed and the risotto is con-
ago, I was. Because…you know…kids and sisters and wives.” “I
sumed, slowly, amid a conversation in which fathers, mothers,
concentrate better than he does!” Don says, interrupting.
wives, husbands, daughters and sons all contribute their part. It’s
“Yeah, well, at this point, that’s right,” Mark admits with a
a scene that beautifully illustrates a point Don had made earlier in
grin. “It’s nice. I like cooking but—and people find this very fun-
the evening. “You see,” he said, “French cooking is all about tech-
ny—there was a point in my life where I was on the line a lot, and
nique. But Italian! Italian cooking is all about the ingredients.”
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DON’S SUNDAY SEAFOOD RISOTTO Serves 6 2 qt. vegetable stock ¼ c. grapeseed oil 6 oz. shucked bay scallops, patted dry Salt and white pepper, to taste 6 oz. shrimp (21/25 count) peeled and deveined, patted dry ¼ c. olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 22 oz. Arborio rice 1 c. dry white wine 3–4 oz. tomato paste 6–8 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, diced 6 oz. shucked clams 6 oz. lump crabmeat 2 t. sherry vinegar lemon juice and lemon zest to taste 2 T. chopped fresh oregano ½ c. heavy cream 1 bunch spinach, roughly chopped 6 sprigs Italian parsley for garnish Warm the vegetable stock in a small saucepan. Heat the grapeseed oil in a shallow pot until it just starts to smoke. Add the bay scallops and quickly sauté over high heat to caramelize the outside slightly; season lightly with salt and white pepper. Remove the scallops from the pan with a slotted spoon and reserve to the side in a bowl. Repeat this process with the shrimp. After the shrimp are removed, add the olive oil to the pot, then add the onion and garlic and sauté until translucent. Add the rice and stir for 90 seconds, then add the white wine. Stir the mixture—making sure to lightly scrape the bottom of the pan to pick up any browned bits. Stir in the tomato paste, then add the Roma tomatoes. Season liberally with salt and white pepper and allow the wine to reduce until the mixture is just damp. Slowly start adding the warm stock to the mixture, one ladle (6–8 ounces) at a time—allowing the rice to absorb the stock almost completely between additions. When about two-thirds of the stock has been used, add the clams to the risotto. With the next addition of stock, add the seared scallops and shrimp. And with the next addition, include the crabmeat. After all of the stock has been incorporated, stir in the sherry vinegar, lemon juice, lemon zest and oregano, then add the cream. Last but not least, remove the pot from the heat and stir in the spinach— allowing it to wilt in the hot risotto. Divide the risotto between 6 deep pasta bowls, garnish with the parsley and serve immediately.
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Herbicides and chemical fertilizers are not used in biodynamic farming because they disrupt the natural balance. 32
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FARMERS diary
THE BIODYNAMIC WAY BY VA L E R I E B RO USSA R D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY PAU L I N E ST EV E N S
O
ne crisp morning in the region of Veneto, Italy, a group of students—including me—straddled the property line of two very different vineyards: one conventional, the
other biodynamic. The farmer of the latter pointed out a tall fruit tree, its limbs towering over the vines, encouraging birds to feast on its sacrificial fruit rather than on the grapes. He crouched down and scooped up handfuls of his soil and asked the students to do the same—proudly inhaling the scent of the glorious living foundation teeming with microbes. Now, he prodded, compare it to the stale and compact soil of the neighboring plot. Biodynamic agriculture, as practiced today, developed in 1924 out of eight lectures, entitled “Agriculture: Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture,” given by scientist and philosopher Rudolf Steiner to a group of farmers near what was then eastern Germany (now Wroclaw, Poland). In the lectures, Steiner pulled from farming techniques and methods used over centuries by civilizations throughout the world. He spoke of creating biodynamic “preparations” from certain plants and natural
health and growth of a plant can therefore be stimulated by sow-
materials to be used to treat and amend soils, ward off disease
ing, cultivating and harvesting it in tune with the cycles of the
and insects and nurture plants, and of the effects of the moon,
moon.” Thun’s “Gardening for Life” includes photos from some
gravity and heavenly bodies on our ecosystems. Inspired by
of her experiments—including four sets of onions harvested on
Steiner’s vision, the farmers formed a cooperative and imme-
different days. Only the onions harvested on root days stayed
diately began testing the so-named biodynamic methods. Then
firm for months, whereas the onions harvested on leaf, fruit or
in 1928, two members of the co-op established the Demeter cer-
flower days showed rotting and sprouting.
tification and brand (named in honor of the Greek goddess of
Months after the introduction to this method of farming in
fertility and grain), to clearly identify official biodynamic farms
Italy, my classmates and I had the privilege of meeting Nicolas
and foods grown and produced using these strict practices.
Joly, a French biodynamic winemaker. He reiterated the impor-
In biodynamic farming, plants are grouped into four catego-
tance of understanding life and matter, and how the forces of
ries: root (carrots, radishes, beets, etc.), leaf (cabbage, lettuce,
gravity, the planets, stars, moon and sun influence life. It’s un-
chard, etc.), blossom (flowering bulbs and broccoli, etc.) and
mistakable, for example, how influential the pull of the moon is
fruit (grains, tomatoes, corn, etc.). As particular days of the zo-
on Earth’s water, and water, of course, is essential to plant life.
diac are assigned to each of these groups, one might sow, plant,
According to Joly, “the vine will fully express itself if it has to
hoe and cultivate parsnips, for example, on a “root day” to pro-
struggle,” meaning, a grower will reap what they sow. He ex-
duce the best yield, uniformity, quality, taste, vigor, resistance to
plained that herbicides and chemical fertilizers are not used in
disease and nutritional value. The moon makes a 27-day journey
biodynamic farming because they disrupt the natural balance.
around the Earth, and it passes through the constellations of the
After several years, weed killers can destroy 95 percent of the
zodiac. Each plant group responds to three of the 12 zodiac re-
beneficial microorganisms in the soil, and chemical fertilizers
gions. The late author Maria Thun, who published a biodynam-
force water into the grapes, often causing fungus—a sign of too
ic sowing and planting calendar for over 50 years, wrote that
much water. Biodynamic methods don’t fight disease, because
these forces “affect the four elements: earth, light (air), water and warmth (fire). They, in turn, affect the four parts of the
Opposite page: Grassfed beef producer and blueberry farmer Bill
plant: the roots, the flower, the leaves and the fruit or seeds. The
McCranie in his element. Above: McCranie’s blueberries. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
OUTDOOR 2015
33
it’s believed that the purpose of disease is to destroy what is not
grower, he purchased a refractometer years ago to measure the
aligned with greater forces.
sugar content in his berries. His first reading was a 14 on the
Currently, the majority of Demeter-certified farms in the U.S.
scale, which is considered very good for blueberries. But after
are along the west coast and in the northeast; there are none in
incorporating biodynamic practices, the measurements are now
Texas or in our neighboring states. Yet, several area farms incor-
as high as 19, which is nearly off the chart for blueberries.
porate biodynamic practices. I first met Bill McCranie, a McDade,
Kris Olsen of Milagro Farm in Red Rock also incorporates
Texas, blueberry farmer and grassfed cattle rancher at a Texas
biodynamic practices. Prior to farming in Texas, he was a certi-
Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (TOFGA) confer-
fied-organic farmer in the mountains near San Diego, California.
ence, where he handed me a quartz crystal. McCranie is the vice
Although he farmed with intuition, he always kept journals—re-
president of the Josephine Porter Institute and he was there to
cording when and what he planted, and how much he harvested.
promote biodynamic farming to his fellow farmers and gardeners.
His sister introduced him to biodynamic farming with the gift
He explained some of the preparations used in this method. For
of a calendar that is used as a guide for planting and harvesting.
example, crystal (aka silica), like the one I was holding, is ground
He would later look back at his journals to discover that much of
into powder, stuffed into cow horns, buried in pits during certain
what he had been doing was in sync with the calendar.
times of the year and then unearthed several months later. Once
Gena Nonini of Demeter-certified Marian Farms in Fresno,
the horns are retrieved, their contents are removed, mixed with
California, likens biodynamic farming to conducting an orches-
pure, non-chlorinated water and sprayed on plants as a growth
tra—the farmer acts as conductor to a diverse, self-sustaining
stimulant and fungicide. This is just one of many preparations
organism with many moving parts that must be in harmony. She
used to nourish plants and replenish soils; others include a fertil-
emphasizes embracing the spiritual side of biodynamics, and
izer spray made from fermented manure (produced in the same
suggests keeping an open mind about matter and energy.
fashion as the silica) and compost enriched with yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, oak bark, dandelion and valerian.
Farmers like McCranie, Olsen and Nonini have obvious passion for the health and wellness of their own farms, families and people
The practice of planting by the moon and burying silica- or
who eat their food, but also for the environment as a whole. Bio-
manure-filled cow horns may seem like black magic or Voodoo—
dynamic farming incorporates a range of practices to help promote
and biodynamic theories have certainly garnered their fair share
this healthy environment and maintain a synergistic balance while
of scrutiny and derision over the years—but McCranie says the
also acknowledging the immensity and power of the universe and its
techniques are definitely paying off for him. A certified-organic
influence on Earth…right down to the roots and microbes in the soil.
Full Moon Dinners at Our Farm
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DISCOVER BASTROPTX A WORLD APART...NOT FAR AWAY Jazzed Up Casual Fine Dining & Catering
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PEOPLE
BREED ’EM HORNS BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S
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“We decided to commit ourselves to growing the best animals in the best environment.” —Debbie Davis
W
hen Debbie Davis turned 30
meat to the conventional feedlot mar-
in 1992, her husband, Don,
kets and instead began marketing their
bought her a pair of long-
USDA-approved processed meat direct-
horn heifers. “Kind of for giggles,” she
ly to customers. “We decided to commit
says. “I’d been talking about having
ourselves to growing the best animals in
longhorns as pets.” At the time, Don
the best environment,” says Debbie.
worked in Austin as an architect and
Austin
establishments
such
as
Debbie at jobs that sometimes drew on
Hudson’s on the Bend, Kerbey Lane
her fine arts graduate degree, but the
Cafe, Hut’s Hamburgers and Wheats-
heifers weren’t just the whim of city
ville Food Co-op liked the approach,
slickers looking for a weekend hobby.
and their customers apparently liked
Don’s family owned two ranches out-
the taste, because they began asking
side Austin, and the couple soon bought
for more. Don eventually quit archi-
their own in Tarpley, Texas. And as their
tecture to handle Bandera sales and
longhorn herd slowly grew, so did the
he launched the Grassfed Longhorn
couple’s commitment to the iconic Tex-
Alliance to advocate for fellow small-
as animal—especially to its future.
scale, independent longhorn ranch-
Debbie and Don admired how the
ers. (The couple also formed the
tough and lean longhorns—descended
Cattlemen’s Texas Longhorn Conser-
from the same hearty stock that sur-
vancy in 2005.)
vived cattle drives in the 1800s—were
By 2006, the couple had 300 long-
rarely sick, didn’t need much water
horns and a herd of sheep on 10,000
and had no trouble making babies or
acres that they either owned or
birthing them. They feared these dis-
leased. It sounds impressive—until
tinct traits might get flushed away forever by other ranchers
you factor in gas, feed cost and lease fees. “We were killing our-
who’d begun crossbreeding longhorns to produce bigger bodies
selves,” says Debbie. “And when we put a pencil to it, we realized
and horns. “They make these ‘wrong-horns’ just to brag about
it wasn’t worth it.” They scaled down Bandera Grassland’s client
their horn size at competitions,” says Don. Longhorns may be
list to include only Hut’s Hamburgers and individual consumers.
the official large mammal of Texas, and they may move a lot of
Meanwhile, Don turned the Grassfed Longhorn Alliance into the
collegiate merchandise, but Don and Debbie saw them in peril.
Grassfed Livestock Alliance (GLA)—a collective of like-minded
They decided to rescue what they call “full-blood” longhorns
ranchers in Texas, Oklahoma and Arkansas who meet the stan-
by…turning them into hamburgers?
dards of the American Grassfed Association. Don says that some
The Davises set up Bandera Grassland in 2003 to help shine
larger ranchers and meat producers put “grassfed” on their la-
a light on longhorn meat and make the animal a desirable one to
bels without backing up the claim. “A lot of people say they do
breed. “We needed to make a market for longhorns so that people
grassfed, but we prove it,” says Don. The collective also meets
would want to raise them,” says Debbie. People started getting hip to
the Global Animal Partnership requirements of Whole Foods
the grassfed cattle movement around this time, but Don and Debbie
Market, which carries its meat in nearly every store in four
were already way ahead of the curve. They’d long since cut grains,
southwestern states, save for the Austin stores which carry an
hormones and antibiotics from their herd’s diet, as well as chemicals
organic beef from California. Don and the GLA worked out an
from their soil. And shortly thereafter, they gave up on selling their
innovative deal in which the grocery chain buys the whole car-
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
OUTDOOR 2015
37
cass instead of the pieces—a huge boon to small ranchers who’d
their ranch in Tarpley. That’s also meant no more sheep, but at
otherwise have to spend their entire weekends at farmers markets
least the couple had the option of moving them to another GLA
just to sell some chuck. “If I sold you a tomato, you wouldn’t buy
ranch. “They’re still in the family,” Debbie says.
the middle and leave me with the top and bottom,” Don jokes.
No matter how much of the grass may shrivel, the Davises are
Teaming up with a huge customer like Whole Foods Market
committed to keeping it at the top of the menu for the herd. Not
has helped the couple and other GLA members weather Texas’
only is grass-feeding the right way to raise a longhorn, they say, it
devastating drought. Since much of Don and Debbie’s loving-
also makes for better meat. “I’m sure the big boys wanted to make
ly tended pastureland has sizzled up, they’ve gone through the
us go away,” says Don. “We didn’t. Now we’ve gotten everybody’s
painful process of destocking their longhorn herd down to 40 on
attention.”
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edible DESTINATION
EDEN EAST BY J ESS I CA N EW M A N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
Chef Sonia Coté harvests broccoli rabe from Springdale Farm plots.
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item on the menu and how it’s used so that the servers are well informed to answer questions. When Coté prepared a strawberry panna cotta last winter, a server was asked how there were local strawberries in the wrong growing season. The server explained that Markley Family Farm in New Braunfels had called to say it had a unique batch of strawberries that survived the warmer winter. Coté jumped at the chance to have the salvaged berries and used them to make the dessert sprinkled with lavender sugar and caramel pecan brittle. Coté also wants Eden East to be a creative hub to help educate chefs on cooking sustainably. In order to extend the life of a vegetable, “the culinary team must utilize the past, present and future of ingredients,” she says—everything from tomatoes canned as a salsa to last through winter to fermented cabbage to have on hand for summer. Eden East’s staff seems to appreciate the beauty and challenges of serving food in-season and outdoors. Tents are put up when it rains,
T
or dinner can be moved into Springdale’s farmers market building, but
hough the food trailer and pop-up restaurant concept has
Coté is reluctant to move inside because she wants visitors to appre-
saturated Austin, one mobile kitchen on the East Side offers
ciate true outdoor dining “in the same weather as the plants growing
a few unique and interesting twists. Eden East is an outdoor
and the hens laying.” Though an admitted slave to the fickle Texas
dining experience that combines expertly crafted, hyper-local, high-
weather, she doesn’t view this way of eating as an inconvenience, but
end cuisine with rustic community-style tables and a mobile kitchen
rather a culinary and artistic opportunity and challenge. No guest en-
nestled amid the natural bounty, functionality and sustainability of
sconced in the peaceful, bucolic farm setting, eating the freshest that
Springdale Farm. In fact, it’s the pastoral surroundings that directly
nature has to offer, could deny the inherent sense that she’s right.
dictate Eden East’s very menu, as well as what goes on in the kitchen and what happens between courses. The whitewashed kitchen rests on just under five acres of farmland, under a canopy of pecan boughs, and acts as a buffer from the street view. The seasonal growth all around is where Chef Sonya Coté harvests the majority of the items for her multicourse menus. Guests are encouraged to roam the lush rows of greens and heirloom blooms, admire over a hundred chickens in the maroon coop and wander down to the greenhouse where seedlings are grown for transplanting. In many ways, Eden East is a kind of antithesis to the food trailer movement. Here, there is no rush to move to the next thing. Reservations are required for each of the 50 spots, and porcelain plates, stemware, flatware and cloth napkins are used. The food isn’t passed to a line of waiting patrons, but instead delivered by servers. And each week brings a new menu and presentations inspired by what can be seen through the kitchen’s windows—like this winter’s petite “sandwich” appetizer of beet and chèvre, crafted in beautiful layers to resemble a French macaron and accompanied by carrots and turnips dressed in a pickled shallot powder, and the spinach and Romanesco broccoli-stem bisque with charred leaves and florets pickled in beet juice. With many of our local farms, Springdale included, currently at risk because of recent City of Austin legislation, new regulations and restrictions and the crippling drought, Coté’s mission is focused less on riding the coattails of the trendy mobile kitchen concept and more on just getting people to come to the source—to truly experience the origins and cycles of their food, from beginning to end. In that regard, guests can anticipate a two- to three-hour dining experience that includes plenty of time for roaming the grounds and casual conversations. On many nights, Springdale’s owners and residents, Glenn and Paula Foore, pop over to chat. Eden East’s team is given extensive notes from Coté about each
SPRING ONION SOUP WITH HORSERADISH, CARROT AND WATEROAK FARM CHÈVRE For this recipe, Chef Coté makes her own prepared horseradish by peeling a medium-large horseradish root and grating it on a cheese grater. In a jar, she mixes the grated root with 1 tablespoon of rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons of water and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and refrigerates until ready to use. Serves 4–6 4 T. Texas olive oil 1 bunch spring onions, green parts and small bulbs, chopped 1 bunch carrots, peeled and chopped ½ bunch green garlic, chopped 4 T. unbleached flour (can use gluten-free if preferred) ½ c. sherry (or white wine) 2 qt. homemade chicken stock ¼ c. crème fraîche 2 oz. chèvre (from Wateroak Farm) 2 T. prepared horseradish (homemade or store-bought) Kosher salt and white pepper, to taste Fresh thyme, lemon zest and celery leaf, for garnish Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan or stockpot. Sauté the chopped onions until caramelized. Add the carrots and garlic. Stir in the flour until it coats the vegetables. Add the sherry (or wine) and cook until the alcohol has evaporated. Add the chicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to marry. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Ladle the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth. Pour the blended soup back into the soup pot. On low heat, whisk in the crème fraîche, chèvre and horseradish. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh thyme, lemon zest and celery leaf. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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ARTICHOKES AND EDEN BRIE WITH TOASTED PECANS, THYME AND PRESERVED MEYER LEMON For this recipe, Chef Coté uses her own preserved Meyer lemons. To make them, she takes in-season Meyer lemons and quarters them without cutting all the way through (each will look like a flower). She stuffs the center of each lemon with a handful of kosher salt and, one by one, packs them into a 2-quart jar—alternating the rows with fresh bay leaves. She lets them sit for a month before using, then refrigerates the jar and uses the lemons year round. Serves 4
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4 Texas artichokes, tops cut, sharp leaf points removed with scissors, stems trimmed flat and fuzzy centers scooped out and discarded 4 T. butter 4 T. flour ¼ c. milk ¼ c. heavy cream 4 oz. Eden Brie, leaves removed (from Brazos Valley Cheese) Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste 1 t. cayenne Pinch nutmeg ¼ c. freshly grated Parmesan Toasted pecans, fresh thyme and thinly sliced preserved Meyer lemon, for garnish Heat the broiler on low (or move the top rack down if the only broiling option is high). In a large pot of salted water (salt until the water tastes like the ocean), boil the artichokes for 10 minutes. Remove from the water and drain well, upside down, in a colander. In a saucepan, melt the butter and add the flour. Whisk together until the flour is coated with the butter and starts to turn slightly brown. Add the milk and the cream and, as they warm, add the brie and let it melt over a low flame while constantly stirring. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne and nutmeg. When the mix is smooth, turn off the heat. Fill the artichokes with the cheese sauce and place them, standing head up, in an oiled casserole dish. Top with the grated Parmesan, put under the broiler and let cook for about 10 minutes, until the cheese turns golden. Garnish with toasted pecans, fresh thyme and Meyer lemon slices.
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Family Garden EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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43
edible GAME
FERAL BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY T H O M AS W I N S LOW
G
rassfed or grainfed? Pastured? Cage-free? For Chris Houston, owner of Feral, the best choice for meat is a wild animal you’ve harvested and butchered yourself. For years, Houston
was a confirmed vegetarian, but not too long ago, he made the switch to an omnivore diet—willing to eat meat he had hunted himself. “Sustainability and the humane treatment of animals was a big concern for me,” Houston says. “I realized I didn’t need to be a total vegetarian to make sure I was being a responsible eater.” In his eyes, there’s no better way to ensure that what’s on the plate was raised humanely, without antibiotics and truly free range. Yet, in our modern world, few of us have fired a gun and taken an animal from hoof to stove. Houston, a gentle presence with a deeply patient and unassuming air, hopes to change all that by removing some of the mystery and intimidation many of us feel about the process. Recently, Houston opened a wild-food workspace where customers can butcher their own game or meats and benefit from hands-on experience in animal processing. “Reading blogs and paying attention to popular culture, I could see that there was a growing interest in harvesting our own meat and getting closer to our food,” he says. “But I felt like that final step was missing. If people wanted to be responsible for hunting and harvesting their food, it didn’t make sense to drop it off at a commercial processor.” Because the meat processed at Feral is brought in by customers, wild-harvested and for home use only, Houston avoids costly permitting and USDA regulation. An equipment orientation ensures that safe guidelines are followed, and all customers sign a liability waiver before getting started. Customers can use the kitchen and equipment by the hour—supported by Houston’s guidance and resources—or sign up for a full culinary hunting package, which includes guided practice in hunting animals, along with field dressing, skinning and quartering, and a session on butchering and processing. On a wintry weekend afternoon, I brought in an axis buck that was taken in the Hill Country. Houston was accessible and easy to talk to, and passionately committed to changing people’s rela-
apparent, and butchery as a concept began to come to light. To
tionship to food—essentially, he’s 180 degrees from the leathered
help with the next steps, Houston suggested thinking about what
outdoorsman you might expect (or fear). The mood in the kitch-
I’d like to cook through the seasons—like roasts and braising cuts
en was easygoing and relaxed; we laid out our field-dressed deer
for winter, and steaks and ground meat for warmer months. Once
on long, gleaming stainless tables set with cutting boards, sharp
the cuts were decided, we set to work. Big trash bins, great knives
knives and kitchen towels, and Houston walked us through a brief
and stainless surfaces made quick and neat work of a job that
anatomy lesson. With his guidance, the various muscles became
in a home setting could be a giant, messy disaster. In fact, when
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Houston started hunting, his wife—who is still a vegetarian—put her foot down. “Yeah, that worked for about one hunt,” Houston says with a rueful laugh. “My wife pretty much said, ‘Get it out of my kitchen!’” Once we had the deer broken down into “primals” (larger sections of meat from which the smaller cuts are made), Houston demonstrated how to carefully trim away the silvery connective tissue that would make the meat tough. As we work, Houston leans in close. “You want to get as much of that as you can,” he says, pointing out a bit of the tissue missed. “Some of the connective tissue is found at the seams where muscles come together. When that’s the case, I find it’s best to follow it and cut the meat into portions or steaks right there. You’re letting the meat itself guide your choices.” Since venison is a lean meat, and can easily be tough if prepared incorrectly, addressing this at the butchering stage was a great first step to tender, savory dishes later. Having a loose plan for desired meals was the starting point for making sure the animal was dressed to specifications. Houston is a good home cook, and while we worked, we chatted about recipes and his favorite cookbooks for meat and dished about local butcher shops and barbecue restaurants. “[Dai Due Chef] Jesse Griffiths is such an inspiration to me,” Houston says. “I attended one of his hunting schools and his Whole Hog butchering class and felt like I came away with a whole new perspective on food.” Griffiths recommended the cookbook, “The River Cottage Meat Book,” by English author Hugh Fearn-
VENISON NECK OSSO BUCO Serves 4 2 venison neck roasts (about 3–5 lbs. total) Salt and pepper, to taste Olive oil 1 c. diced carrots 1 c. diced onion 6 garlic cloves, minced ½ c. diced celery 2 c. red wine 1 28-oz. can whole, peeled tomatoes Heat the oven to 300°. Season the venison neck roasts generously with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat and sear the venison on both sides. Remove to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, onions, garlic and celery to the Dutch oven and sauté until vegetables begin to soften—about 10 minutes. Deglaze the pan with red wine—scraping up brown, sticky bits from the bottom of the pan. Drain the tomatoes and add to the pan—crushing them well with your hands as they’re added. Give everything a good stir, simmer for another 5 minutes, taste and correct seasoning, then return the venison to the pan. Add 2 cups of water to bring the liquid about halfway up the sides of the meat. Cover the pot and place in the oven. Braise for 4 to 5 hours, until the meat is falling-apart tender. Check occasionally to make sure the pan is not drying out, adding water as needed. Serve with polenta, buttered noodles or roasted potatoes.
ley-Whittingstall, which has become a much-referenced butchery and meat cookery bible in the Feral kitchen, along with Griffiths’ own book “Afield.” As we talked, I began to see the deep connection between this animal that had been wandering the Texas woods just hours ago, and my own family, who would gather around the table through the seasons enjoying meals we had first hunted and then cooked with our very own hands. Soon we had steaks, chops and ground meat in exactly the cuts and quantities we wanted—all in labeled, vacuum-sealed packages ready for the freezer. Houston also has recipes and equipment for making sausage, and can guide customers through that process—even offering information on where to buy casings and locally sourced pork fat. Not a bit of our animal was wasted (we even saved the bones for stock), and we would enjoy a winter’s worth of delicious dinners knowing we were eating the most local and sustainable food available. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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VIETNAMESE LETTUCE WRAPS WITH VENISON Serves 4 1 lb. ground venison 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 T. minced lemongrass 1 T. grated ginger 2 t. Vietnamese fish sauce 1 T. lime juice Salt and white pepper, to taste Boston lettuce leaves for wrapping Cilantro, mint, Sriracha sauce, lime wedges for garnish Steamed jasmine rice
In a medium bowl, combine the ground venison with the garlic, lemongrass, ginger, fish sauce, lime juice and salt and white pepper. Mix well and form into small, golf ball-size patties. Heat a grill pan over high heat and, when smoking, grill the venison patties until cooked through. Wrap in lettuce leaves with cilantro, mint, Sriracha sauce and lime wedges for garnish. Serve with a side of jasmine rice.
VENISON BOLOGNESE Serves 6–8 2 lb. ground venison Salt and pepper, to taste Olive oil 3 carrots, peeled and diced 2 stalks celery, diced 1 onion, diced 1 c. milk 1 c. white wine 1 28-oz. can whole, peeled tomatoes 2 bay leaves Heat a slick of olive oil in a wide braising pan over medium heat and brown the venison until no pink remains. Season with salt and pepper. With a slotted spoon, remove the meat to a bowl and set aside. Add a little more olive oil to the pan and turn the heat to medium-low. Sauté the carrots, celery and onions for 10 to 15 minutes until quite soft, but do not allow to brown—turn down the heat, if necessary. Return the venison to the pan and add the milk. Simmer over medium-low heat until the milk has evaporated and absorbed into the meat. Add the wine and continue simmering until it disappears. Crush the tomatoes with your hands and add to the pan along with their juices. Add the bay leaves and correct the seasonings as needed. Bring to a simmer, then turn the heat to low and cook, slowly, for 2 hours—stirring occasionally. To serve, toss with pappardelle or spaghetti and top with grated Parmesan. Freezes well. 46
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WILD MUSHROOM AND VENISON STROGANOFF Serves 4 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms 1 lb. venison steak, cut into thin strips 2 T. butter 2 T. olive oil 8 oz. mixed mushrooms (we used shiitake, cremini, chanterelle, reconstituted dried porcini and hen of the woods) washed, sliced 2 large shallots, diced 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 T. tomato paste ¼ c. brandy ½ c. crème fraîche Salt and pepper, to taste Place the dried porcini mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and cover with 2 cups boiling water. Set aside. Season the venison strips with salt and pepper, then melt the butter in a wide braising pan over medium heat. When the butter begins to foam, brown the venison in batches and remove to a plate or bowl as it is cooked. Add the olive oil to the pan and sauté the mixed mushrooms until they brown and begin to crisp up on the edges. (Do this in batches, if necessary—if the pan is crowded, the dish will get watery.) As the mushrooms cook, remove them to the plate or bowl with the venison. When the mushrooms are cooked, add the shallot and garlic to the pan and sauté briefly until fragrant and beginning to brown. Add the tomato paste and fry until it turns a lovely brick-red color. Deglaze the pan with the brandy—scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom. Drain the dried porcini mushrooms and add the soaking liquid to the pan—saving the rehydrated mushrooms for another use (they’re great in an omelet!). Return the venison and the sautéed mushrooms to the pan and simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce comes together. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the crème fraîche and stir well. Continue cooking just to warm through. Serve over buttered egg noodles.
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edible HOSPITALITY
THE FORCES at the front of the house BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M O L LY W I N T E RS
W
hen deciding between favorite restaurants, service usually takes a backseat to other considerations, namely, food
and libations. Yet, a great server and front-of-house staff can elevate a dining experience from good to exceptional, often without the diner even noticing. Luckily, Austin has plenty of establishments that appreciate the people who master the dining room and ensure that customers feel at home.
JODIE FREDLEY, UCHI/UCHIKO
J
odie Fredley had plans to eventually teach high school English when she started working in a restaurant to help pay for col-
lege. After two semesters as a server, though, she realized that her calling might actually be in hospitality and she quit school. The gamble paid off, and in 2006, after a successful run in a handful of restaurants, Fredley landed in the Uchi family and has been an integral part of it ever since. Now, in addition to service, Fredley often trains new team members—coaching them on ways to keep their eyes and ears open in the new environment, and how being a great listener is at the heart of excellent service. “I like the opportunity to interact with so many different people—including my coworkers and the guests,” says Fredley. “I know that it’s not heart surgery, but I think it’s our best opportunity to have an impact on people in their everyday lives.”
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w w w. Pau l as T exas S p irits.c o m
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TYRONE SOARES, BUFALINA AND FABI + ROSI
T
50
yrone Soares is a familiar face to many Austin din-
wine menus at Bufalina and Fabi + Rosi.
ers: He’s been serving in some of the area’s best
Soares was drawn to the service industry because each
restaurants for over 20 years. He started his career at
day offered new opportunities. “You can have a rough
Granite Café in the late ’90s, moved to work with Chef
night of service, but the next day you get to start fresh
Will Packwood’s group at Emilia, 7 and Cibo, and then
and do your best,” he says. “It’s not like you go home and
went on to work at Mulberry. Currently, he can be found
you have to worry about what’s sitting on your desk or
helping diners choose from the best of both the food and
what’s in your files. Another shift, another show.”
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weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned
1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com
NOW SERVING WEEKEND BRUNCH! SAT/SUN 11AM - 2.30PM Barlata offers a Spanish twist on weekend brunch. Chef Daniel Olivella has reimagined and revitalized the brunch by incorporating traditional Spanish ingredients into breakfast staples. 1500 SOUTH LAMAR | AUSTIN, TX www.barlataaustin.com 512.473.2211 twitter.com/barlataatx facebook.com/barlataaustin
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IRMA SANDOVAL, GARCIA’S MEXICAN FOOD RESTAURANT
I
rma Sandoval is so dedicated to her customers that for 14
restaurant group—one elderly customer in San Marcos
years she has driven from San Marcos to Buda to work
was even met at his car by servers and walked to his table
at Garcia’s Mexican Food Restaurant. “People ask me why I
where breakfast and a newspaper awaited. Garcia regularly
don’t work at one of the San Marcos locations, but the cus-
evangelizes that without loyal customers, their seven restau-
tomers in Buda are like my family,” she says. “I love working
rants wouldn’t be successful. And Sandoval always reminds
here because the customers are so loyal.”
new employees to treat all of their guests with kindness.
Sandoval is the embodiment of the customer-first mindset of Antonia Garcia, the matriarch of this 26-year-old 52
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“Whether they give you a big tip or no tip,” she says. “Everyone deserves friendly, smiling service.”
eat well. 11th & lamar 512-482-8868
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handcrafted wood-burning ovens & pizza oven kits
Marfa
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HISTORY / MYSTERY / ART / CUISINE / ADVENTURE 432.729.4772
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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53
SKIP WALKER, HOOVER’S COOKING
I
n 1999, Skip Walker had been a teacher for 13 years when
Now he has a slew of loyal customers, including former Uni-
he felt the pull to do something different. Chef Hoover
versity of Texas Football Coach Mack Brown and his wife Sally.
Alexander, a family friend and fellow member of Greater
“Don’t ask me to cook,” says Walker. “I can’t prepare the potato
Mount Zion Baptist Church, offered Walker a job at Hoover’s
salad for you, but I can make sure that we take good care of you.”
Cooking, and he’s been there ever since.
54
That commitment to customer service has established
Walker fell in love with the customer-service aspect of
Hoover’s Cooking as a community mainstay—a place where
the job, and worked his way up through the restaurant to
regulars come every week, sometimes every day. “This is a
become the front-of-house and catering manager. “Every day
community restaurant,” says Walker. “We’re watching our
is different,” he says. “I meet some new people, there will be
customers’ kids grow up, we’re part of the neighborhood and
a new challenge…and I really like that.”
that is the best part of this job.”
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Serving Lunch, Brunch and Dinner with a menu inspired by our farmer friends.
Dinner everyday starting at 5pm Lunch M–F at 11:30am | Sunday Brunch at 10:30am 1201 South Lamar | oddduckaustin.com
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a tasting menu driven by the kitchen’s interpretation of the seasons optional drink pairings available Open M–F at 5:30pm, Saturdays at 5pm barleyswine.com | 2024 South Lamar
14 ACRE NURSERY FRUIT TREES EDIBLES AND MORE 830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls www.BackboneValleyNursery.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
OUTDOOR 2015
55
CLINTON TEDIN, SERVER, DAI DUE
C
linton Tedin has dedicated 31 years to a hospitality ca-
everything he needs. “Chefs have their mise en place in the
reer in Austin—working first as a bartender and now
kitchen, with all their ingredients and tools prepared,” he says.
as a server. He says he’s drawn to the social interaction with
“And I have mine for the floor. If you aren’t prepared, it can
customers and the constant challenge to learn new things. “I
ruin your whole shift.”
advise new servers to always be learning,” says Tedin. “It’s im-
During his career, Tedin has seen some of the formalities
portant because if you aren’t learning new things, then it’s just
of service change, but the core value of taking care of the
a job that you’re showing up for and slinging plates.”
customer remains the same. “It can be hard to quantify the
Tedin has developed a number of rituals over the years— including arriving extra early to his shift to make sure he has 56
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
difference between good service and bad service, but it’s like pornography—you know it when you see it.”
Upcoming Events March 21 Gary Jack Thornton “At the Easel”
April 11 — Paint the Town Dave McMurry “At the Easel”
Showcasing work by
May 2 Susan Mabry, Guatemalan Textile
national and
May 9
regional artists.
Dina Gregory, “At the Easel”
200 Main St., Marble Falls • 830.693.9999 • martastaffordfineart.com
GET ON HILL COUNTRY TIME.
Why wait for the weekend to start having fun? Go for a hike, do some fishing, take in a wine tasting or find that missing piece of art in your life. plan your vacation at marblefalls.org.
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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57
A SPRING LAMB FEAST PAIRING MENU Creamy Cilantro Soup with Chipotle Crema Roasted Beet Salad with Rice Wine Vinaigrette, Peppered Bacon and Goat Cheese Braised Shoulder of Twin County Lamb with Aromatics and Rosemary Demi-Glace Soft Polenta with Onions and Jalapeños Dos Lunas Ricotta Cheese and Orange Moscato Tart with Almond Pastry and Strawberries
W
ith the return of spring, nothing is more enjoyable in Texas than being outdoors. Sunrises are warm and invigorating; sunsets become spectacular theater. Nature is reborn—
abounding in the budding trees, soft grasses and the candy-colored palette of our famous Texas Hill Country wildflowers. As we celebrate this lush, vernal time, we look to certain customs and foods as representatives of life’s victory over winter’s cold repose, and of the gentleness, tenderness and innocence that are promised to follow. Probably the best known of these symbolic foods is lamb—gracing springtime tables in both religious and non-religious contexts for thousands of years and important to many cultures that began in the Mediterranean regions. Roasted lamb shank is traditionally eaten as part of the Jewish Passover Seder, and eating lamb at Pasqua (Easter, in Italian)—considered the most important religious celebration of the year in Italy, if not all Christendom—is deeply rooted in custom. Traditionally, certain lambs were more desirable for the springtime meal. Often, they were 4- to 6-week-old, milk-fed animals (referred to as angelet in French or agnello da latte in Italian), prized for their tenderness and extremely mild flavor. Today, older animals tend to be more in demand—those about a year old or younger that have foraged on grass in pastures, making the meat more firm with a rich, yet pleasing, flavor. Our spring lamb dinner starts with an invigorating splash—like cold, early spring water rushing over Pedernales slab limestone that eventually becomes our favorite summer swim spot. Lewis Wines 2013 Swim Spot is made from a blend of East Texas blanc du bois and Central Texas chenin blanc. It embraces the light-bodied, slightly effervescent and low-alcohol vinho verde style of Portugal. The wine is near-white in appearance, bright and clean, with lemon citrus and mineral notes igniting on the palate with each lively bubble. Swim Spot is the perfect wine for a celebratory toast at the beginning of the spring meal.
CREAMY CILANTRO SOUP WITH CHIPOTLE CREMA This is a delicious soup with a delicate but surprisingly complex and gratifying taste. The “green” vegetal elements of the soup—particularly the zucchini and cilantro—beg for a dry white. As with many soups, though, there can be a multiplicity of disparate ingredients making wine pairing more challenging. In this case, there is an underlying spicy zing from the addition of serrano and chipotle chilies. This led us to dry wines that could balance the spice against vibrantly ripe fruit flavors while still being fermented dry. Luckily, in Texas wineries we are seeing more Mediterranean white wine varieties that carry a natural herbal character from their native homeland and a tendency to yield ripe fruit characteristics from our warm and sunny summer days. Pedernales Cellars 2014 Vermentino fits the bill completely with its herbal thyme notes and hints of anise with strong support on the palate from ripe Asian pear and lemon-citrus characteristics. A second very worthy wine pairing was Hye Meadow Winery 2013 Trebbiano, which focuses more on toasted almonds, sage herbs commingled with white flowers and minerals on the nose, followed by silky Meyer lemon cream characteristics on the palate. Trebbiano is the grape oft-overlooked in dry white Italian wines from northeastern Italy, and Vermentino derives from Sardinia. But here in Texas, these grapes are being rediscovered for their enhanced ripeness and hearty nature that will likely make them keepers for Texas and her wine drinkers. Serves 8–10 For the chipotle crema: ¾ c. sour cream 3 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce, drained (reserve 1 T. sauce) 1 T. freshly squeezed lime juice 1 T. reserved adobo sauce ½ t. kosher salt, or to taste For the soup: ¼ c. canola oil 3 leeks, white portion only 2 medium-size zucchini, sliced 5 large garlic cloves, minced 4 serrano chilies, seeds and veins removed, minced 3 russet potatoes (about 1½ lb.), peeled and cut into 1-inch dice 6 c. rich chicken stock 3 bunches cilantro leaves and tender top sprigs, roughly chopped 1½ c. heavy cream EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Kosher salt, to taste Thin (about 1/8-inch) julienne-cut strips of corn tortillas, fried until crisp 1 28-oz. can whole, peeled tomatoes To make the chipotle crema, combine the sour cream, chipotle chilies, lime juice, adobo sauce and salt in the work bowl of food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until smooth. Place the sour cream mixture in a mesh strainer and, using the back of a spoon, press the mixture through the strainer into a bowl. Keep stirring until nothing remains but the seeds and pulp from the chilies. Discard the pulp and seeds. Transfer the crema to a squeeze bottle and refrigerate until ready to use. To make the soup, slice the root ends from the leeks, then slice them in half lengthwise and rinse well under running water—spreading out the layers to remove all traces of grit and dirt. Slice the leeks thinly and set aside. Heat the canola oil in a heavy-bottomed, 6-quart soup pot over medium heat. Add the leeks, zucchini, garlic, serrano chilies and potatoes. Cook—stirring frequently—until the leeks are wilted and transparent, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken stock, cover and cook for 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are very soft. Stir in the cilantro and puree the soup in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth, then return to the clean pot. Add the heavy cream and cook—stirring once or twice—for about 10 minutes to heat the cream through. Season to taste with salt. To serve, pour the hot soup into bowls or soup plates and drizzle some chipotle crema across the center of each bowl. Nest a small mound of the fried tortilla strips in the center of each.
ROASTED BEET SALAD WITH RICE WINE VINAIGRETTE, PEPPERED BACON AND GOAT CHEESE The earthy taste of both the beets and the goat cheese with the vinaigrette makes for a unique combination. The mélange of greens adds yet another dimension of bold flavors, while a scattering of crumbled peppered bacon provides a crunchy touch and adds a meaty dimension to the salad. All together, the salad could be a tricky wine match. Surprisingly, we found both a white and red match to the complex blend of flavors. Our wine pairings focus on the earthy and smoky characteristics of this dish, but also the richly concentrated and fruitlike characteristics of the roasted beets. For the white, we selected Brennan Vineyards 2012 Chardonnay. The late spring freezes of 2013 in Texas have limited our white wine options. However, we’re lucky that 2012 was a magnificent and prolific vintage for wine grapes. While chardonnay in Texas is not an every-year celebration, 2012 was a special vintage that treated Brennan Vineyards’ decade-old chardonnay vines very well. The wine underwent alcoholic fermentation with no subsequent malolactic fermentation, yielding a crisp, pale-amber wine. The exceptional fruit intensity has softened with bottle aging to produce elements of golden delicious apples, toasted nuts and hints of dried stone fruits that complement the golden beets, smoky bacon and creamy goat cheese. 60
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For the red, we chose Duchman Family Winery 2012 Estate Nero d’Avola made from a grape originating from southern Italy but grown on a parcel on the Duchman Estate vineyard in the Texas Hill Country. This wine approaches the salad from the red side (as expected) and brings luscious black cherry and red beet characteristics and floral aromatics that end in mineral earthiness matching that of the red beets and greens. Serves 4–6 For the beets: Texas extra-virgin olive oil 5 medium-size red beets, washed and trimmed 5 medium-size golden beets, as above 4 large shallots, roughly chopped 3 ancho chilies 1½-inch fresh ginger, sliced thinly and smashed 1 c. soy sauce ¼ c. real maple syrup 2 qt. chicken stock, preferably homemade 1 /³ c. light brown sugar ½ c. dry sherry For the vinaigrette: /³ c. seasoned rice vinegar 2 /³ c. canola oil 2 large garlic cloves, minced 1¼-inch fresh ginger, sliced and smashed ½ t. dry mustard ½ t. kosher salt ½ t. freshly ground black pepper 1
For the salad: 8–10 c. mixed radicchio and butter lettuce 8 oz. plain, mild goat cheese, crumbled 5 slices artisan peppered bacon, cooked crisp, drained and crumbled To roast the beets, begin by heating the oven to 375°. Glaze the bottom of a braising pan with olive oil and set to medium-high heat. Sauté the beets, shallots, chilies and ginger until the ginger is browned— about 5 minutes. Add the remaining beet ingredients and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover and roast in the oven until the beets are soft—about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Set aside until cool. When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel and cut them into bite-sized pieces. Refrigerate until chilled. To make the vinaigrette, combine all of the ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake vigorously to blend well. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving to allow the flavors to mingle. Remove the ginger slices and shake well before serving. To assemble the salad, combine the greens— tossing to blend well. Arrange a portion of the greens on individual, chilled salad plates. Drizzle the desired amount of vinaigrette over each. Arrange some of the roasted beets over each salad and scatter the crumbled bacon and goat cheese over the tops.
BRAISED SHOULDER OF TWIN COUNTY LAMB WITH AROMATICS AND ROSEMARY DEMI-GLACE Twin County Dorpers is located west of Harper, Texas, in Gillespie County. The ranch produces full-blood Dorper natural lamb, born and bred on the ranch where they roam in large pastures supplemented with ranch-grown oats and sorghum. No hormones, antibiotics, steroids, corn or soy have ever been used in the Twin County bloodline. Since the shoulder is a cut that gets lots of exercise, it’s very flavorful but also very tough, and requires a moist heat cooking method like braising. Here, the meat is first pan-seared to give it a nicely flavored crust, then slowly braised in lamb stock on top of a full-bodied collection of aromatic herbs and vegetables and finally broiled with a hint of Marsala wine. The crowning glory is a douse of rosemary demi-glace accented with a hint of deep-flavored, meaty Texas red wine. The depth and complexity of the lamb embellished with buttery-savory flavors beg for red wines with equal depth of flavors and firm tannic structures. An appropriate selection coming from the adjoining county is Sandstone Cellars XV 2013. While this is not an estate wine, both the winery and the grapes used are in Mason County. This wine is purple-black and thick in the glass, derived from a blend of inky petit verdot and syrah. It exudes vibrant, dark-red plum and blueberry notes and a mineral aroma of wet river rocks. All of these elements combine and follow through to the palate and the wine’s finish to meld with the intense flavors of the lamb. A second notable match for this dish is Spicewood Vineyards 2012 Estate Tempranillo that first approaches from the herbal aromatic side. It offers bright notes of cloves and parsley in parallel with the spices used in the preparation of the lamb. On the palate, this wine provides notes of wild cherry, blackberry and black olive, and crisp acidity (that cuts right through the buttery braising sauce) with a finish that feels as dry as the limestone-encrusted soil of the vineyard where it was grown. Serves 4–6 For the lamb: 1 3-lb. Twin County Dorpers boneless shoulder of lamb Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Texas olive oil 1 small fennel bulb, root end removed, stalks and leafy tops cut into 2-inch sections 2 Texas 1015 onions, halved and sliced thinly /³ c. minced garlic 2 3-inch fresh rosemary sprigs 4 fresh thyme sprigs 4 flat-leaf parsley sprigs 4 fresh bay leaves 6 whole cloves 2 qt. lamb stock, preferably, but beef stock will work 2 /³ cup Marsala wine 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes 1
Kosher salt or fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the demi-glace: 2 c. beef stock 2 c. lamb stock, preferably, but beef stock will work 1 3-inch fresh rosemary sprig ¼ c. Texas syrah 2 T. unsalted butter 2 shallots, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Heat the oven to 300°. Pat the lamb shoulder very dry. Season the meat on both sides with salt and black pepper and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. Glaze the bottom of a heavy, 6-quart Dutch oven or roasting pan with olive oil about 1/8-inch deep and set over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering hot, add the lamb shoulder and sear until deeply brown—about 10 minutes. Turn the meat and brown on the other side. Remove from the heat and place the meat on a platter. Carefully pour off the fat from the pan, leaving the caramelized meat glaze on the bottom. Arrange all of the vegetables, herbs and whole cloves in the pan. Place the lamb on top of the vegetables and pour any accumulated juices from the platter over the meat. Add the lamb stock to cover. Roast, uncovered, in the preheated oven for 2½ hours, then turn the meat and roast an additional 2½ hours. While the lamb is cooking, make the rosemary demi-glace. Combine the beef and lamb stocks with the rosemary sprig in a heavy-bottomed, 4-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook the stocks slowly—stirring occasionally—until they become syrupy and have reduced to about a fifth of their original volume, or about ¾ cup. Add the syrah and cook to reduce slightly until the syrupy consistency returns. Strain the demi-glace, discard the rosemary sprig and set aside. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted and foam subsides, add the shallots and cook until wilted and transparent, about 6 minutes. Whisk in the demi-glace vigorously and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside to keep warm. Once the meat has cooked, remove it from the pan, let it rest for 15 minutes then cut it into serving pieces. Cover with foil to keep hot. Strain the pan juices through a fine strainer or chinois into a bowl—pressing down on the aromatics to squeeze out all of the liquid. Discard the aromatics, wipe the roasting pan clean and set aside. Pour 1 cup of the strained pan juices into a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the Marsala and cook until reduced by a third. Remove from the heat and vigorously whisk in the butter cubes all at once. Continue to whisk until the butter has melted and the sauce is smooth and thick. Heat the broiler and place an oven rack 6 inches below the heat source. Arrange the serving pieces of meat in the cleaned roasting pan and pour the Marsala glaze over them. Place the pan under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes. Take extreme care not to burn the meat. To serve, either place a portion of the meat on each plate and spoon the demi-glace over each, or serve the meat on a platter and pass the sauce separately. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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All TEXAS, all the time. We make our wine from TEXAS grapes.
21 ALL-Texas wines for tasting!
17th Annual
Lavender Festival
TexasHillsVineyard.com
Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, Texas 78624 www.littlechef.com ∙ info@littlechef.com 830.997.4937
May 2 & 3, 2015
1 mile east of Johnson City 830-868-2321 • texashillsvineyard.com
Lavender Vendors ~ Lavender Luncheons Live Music ~ Lavender Cooking Demos Concessions ~ Wine Tasting Parking Fee: $5 Admission: Complimentary Hours: Saturday, 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Sunday, Noon – 6 p.m.
www.beckervineyards.com 830-644-2681 Directions: 11 miles east of Fredericksburg, 3 miles west of Stonewall, off US Hwy 290 at Jenschke Lane.
Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 info@littlechef.com www.littlechef.com
Locally sourced. Handcrafted. Inspired. German Cuisine.
316 E Austin St. Fredericksburg 830-307-3336 | www.ottosfbg.com 62
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63
SOFT POLENTA WITH ONIONS AND JALAPEÑOS Polenta is a very tasty but much-underused and often-misunderstood side dish. Milled from corn, polenta makes a great side for red meats, game, pork, lamb and also poultry. Serves 6–8 1 stick unsalted butter 2 fresh jalapeños, seeds, stem and veins removed, minced 1 medium onion, chopped 2¼ c. chicken stock, preferably homemade 2¼ c. whipping cream 1½ c. quick-cooking polenta Kosher salt, to taste 1 T. minced cilantro Melt the butter in a heavy, 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the jalapeño and onion. Sauté, stirring often, until the onion is very wilted and transparent—about 7 minutes. Add the stock and whipping cream and increase the heat to medium-high. Bring to a full boil, then add the polenta. Cook, whisking constantly, until the liquid has been absorbed and the polenta is thickened but still soft and pourable. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the salt and cilantro. Serve hot.
DOS LUNAS RICOTTA CHEESE AND ORANGE MOSCATO TART WITH ALMOND PASTRY AND STRAWBERRIES When I first tasted this handmade ricotta cheese, I fell in love with the creamy, butter-like flavor. The almond pastry forms a pleasant nutty base for the smooth cheesy filling studded with both orange moscato and lemon zest. This is a great dessert for those who are not fans of rich, overly sweet desserts. This recipe calls for the wonderful Texas Hills Vineyard Orange Moscato to be used in the preparation—one of the most amazing “must-taste” Texas wines on its own. Therefore, the wine match in this case is the Hye Meadow Winery 2012 Orange Muscat with its characteristic over-the-top orangey aromatics yet restrained sweetness. A dollop of sémillon was used in the blend, providing an exciting mouthfeel and sugar-to-acid balance. This is a semi-sweet white wine (not sticky-sweet) that has a tangible but modest 4 percent residual sugar. Its fragrant, orange-citrus nose leads to rich tropical fruit flavors of mango, passion fruit, macadamia nuts and a clean, crisp and juicy mouthwatering finish.
For the almond pastry: /³ c. sliced, skin-on almonds ¾ c. all-purpose flour 2 t. minced lemon zest ¼ c. sugar ¼ t. kosher salt 6 T. unsalted butter at room temperature 1 egg 1 T. cold water
1
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For the topping: 1 18-oz. jar Texas strawberry preserves (such as Confituras) 1 lb. fresh Hill Country strawberries, hulled and sliced lengthwise into thin slices Powdered sugar for dusting To make the pastry, process the almonds in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the flour and pulse 3 to 4 times to blend. Add remaining ingredients and process until the dough forms a cohesive ball. Turn out the dough into a 10-inch removable-bottom tart tin. Press the dough into the bottom and up the side of the tin. Prick the dough all over with a fork—including the sides—and place on a baking sheet. Freeze for 1 hour. Heat the oven to 475°. Bake the pastry for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack in the tart tin. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whisk the ricotta on medium speed until very smooth and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add all of the remaining filling ingredients and beat until well blended. Spread in the cooled tart shell and bake until set in the center—about 50 minutes to 1 hour. (A toothpick inserted in the center of the tart should come out clean.) Transfer the tart pan to a wire rack and cool completely. While the tart is baking, heat the strawberry preserves in a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. When the jam is melted, strain through a fine mesh strainer over a metal bowl. Stir the fruit with the back of a spoon to extract all of the liquid from the jam. Discard the pulp and set the glaze aside. When the tart has cooled, dust the edge of the pastry with powdered sugar. Beginning at the outside edge of the tart, arrange the strawberry slices in concentric circles, slightly overlapping. Use a pastry brush to brush the glaze over the strawberries. Set aside until the glaze is set. Remove the tart from the tin to a platter. Slice into wedges to serve. ____________________________________
Serves 6–8
64
For the ricotta filling: 1½ c. Dos Lunas fresh ricotta 5 egg yolks ½ c. sugar ¼ t. kosher salt ½ c. Texas Hills Vineyard Orange Moscato Minced zest of 1 lemon
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Visit twincountydorpers.com to purchase lamb online and to see farmers market dates and locations. Dos Lunas cheeses are sold in several Austin-area retail locations and farmers markets. All of the wines used here are available directly from the wineries or online. These and more recipes are featured in Terry Thompson-Anderson’s recently released cookbook, “Texas on the Table: People, Places and Recipes Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State” (University of Texas Press). Russ Kane’s insight into the selected wines for this article comes from travels to local wineries and is covered in his new field-and-tasting guide, “Texas Hill Country Wineries” (Arcadia Publications).
edible MEAT
NIMAN is a pig’s best friend BY JA M I E F E L D M A R
T
he signs start showing up in Story City, about 60 miles
restaurants and retailers from California to Chelsea, and I’m here
outside of Des Moines; diamond-shaped yellow traffic
to see it at the source.
signs, like the ones with black outlines of people walking
The road has been empty for miles, ribbons of highway unfurl-
for “pedestrian crossing.” Only these signs bear the silhouette of
ing before me, dotted every few miles with these mysterious pig
two little pigs. Pig crossing. The thing is, there hasn’t been a pig
signs. The landscape is not exactly scenic—the fields are empty
for miles. Or so it seems.
and vast, with flat black dirt as far as the eye can see, and not a liv-
I’m driving from Des Moines to Iowa Falls to visit John and
ing creature—plant or animal—in sight. Every few miles, a whiff
Beverly Gilbert, third-generation pig farmers who are part of the
of something fetid filters through the car vents, an olfactory clue
Niman Ranch Pork Company, the nationally known marketing co-
that something is alive around here.
operative that buys well-raised pork, poultry, lamb and beef from
After an hour on the empty highway, the Gilberts’ farm comes
hundreds of small farmers across the country. The meat is sold in
into view. It’s easy to tell which one is theirs: it’s the only land with EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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65
pigs on it. There are dozens of them, pink and black and white and
which is aerated by fans. If the electricity goes out and a backup
muddy, swinging their great bulky torsos back and forth as they
generator fails, those gases will kill the trapped pigs—to the tune of
meander about in the grass. Little piglets, too, surprisingly ador-
up to 2,500 per building—in minutes.
able, running laps around the adults, zigzagging back and forth and
Packed in this tightly, with no access to fresh air, disease—another by-product of these poorly conceived pork pens—spreads swiftly,
squealing happily. I shake the gnarled hand of John Gilbert, whose oversized bifocals
so every animal gets antibiotics right in its feed, which also has been
give him a vaguely owlish appearance, while his wife, Beverley, who’s
found to make them put on weight even faster. In addition, there are
taller than he is, flashes a sweet, toothy smile. “I’ve been seeing
horrifying accounts of animal mistreatment and abuse at the hands
those little pig signs for your farm for the past hour,” I say. “Oh, those
of CAFO staff (to use the term “farmers” seems inaccurate).
aren’t ours,” John replies. I’m confused. “But yours are the only pigs
Then come the environmental repercussions: The waste that
I’ve seen for miles,” I say. John sighs. “You might not have seen them,
piles up at a CAFO—manure, dead piglets and so forth—must be
but on your way here, you just passed 150,000 pigs in confinement.”
disposed of somewhere, often in putrid man-made lagoons so tox-
Welcome to the heart of the American pork industry. Iowa is the
ic that they give neighbors asthma, or, occasionally, dumped into
country’s top pork producer, with a hog population far outnumber-
local waterways. As a result, Iowa has some of the most polluted
ing its humans. In 2011, the state was home to 19.7 million pigs and
rivers and streams in the country.
fewer than 3 million people. But I hadn’t seen a single one, because
Not many years ago, it was different. Farming is a deeply rooted part
the overwhelming majority of operations here are enormous build-
of Iowan culture (this is a state that broadcasts commodity report up-
ings, each containing thousands of hogs in tiny pens. The industry
dates between Top 40 hits on the radio), and many of the farms here
term for these facilities—usually low-slung metal barracks with cor-
have been in the same family for four or five generations. The geog-
rugated roofs—is CAFO, or concentrated animal feeding operation.
raphy, climate and soil in the region are ideal for raising corn and soy-
But they’re better known as factory farms.
beans, which these days are the ingredients that go into making pork.
Critics from Robert F. Kennedy, Jr., to Michael Pollan have doc-
Small- and medium-size family farms were raising hogs and
umented the horrors of CAFOs in graphic detail. Pigs (or protein
selling them to the local market, getting a steady price per pound
units, as they are referred to in commodity agriculture) live their
until about 1998, when the hog market crashed. Pork prices tanked
whole lives in pens so small that they can’t turn around—standing
from around 50 cents a pound to 8 or 10 cents a pound, while the
on metal grates or slatted floors over huge quantities of pig shit. In
price of corn skyrocketed.
this confined space, the waste emits ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, 66
OUTDOOR 2015
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Farmers within driving distance of, say, Austin, can hold them-
“I don’t know what
In 1994, Willis was visiting his old Peace Corps friend Jeanne McCormack, who also happened to be a third-generation lamb farmer near San Francisco. Over dinner, Willis was lamenting the
we would have done
state of Iowa’s pork industry when McCormack suggested he meet
if we didn’t find
appreciate the quality. Niman was raising beef and pigs in Bolinas,
Niman. We would have had to quit
a rancher named Bill Niman, who was partnering with other small farmers and getting their meat into the hands of those who would California—selling his free-range meat to some of the Bay Area’s best chefs, like Alice Waters and Judy Rodgers. Working with a partner named Orville Shell, his fledgling company was aptly called Niman-Shell. McCormack knew of Niman’s ability to get good meat into the right hands, and set up a lunch for the three of them the very next day. “I said, ‘I bet you anything, my pork is better than yours,’” Willis recalls saying at the pivotal meeting. “Bill goes, ‘Send me a sample.’” Willis sent a FedEx box of frozen chops to California, where Niman asked a distinguished panel of chefs and friends (in-
farming, rent the
cluding Waters) to taste-test it. “It was unanimous,” Willis recalls.
land and move out.”
the main pork supplier for Niman’s fledgling company—sending
—Sarah Willis
“Everyone said it was the best pork they’d ever had.” Niman paid Willis a premium for his meat, and Willis was soon about 30 animals a week for a price much sweeter than the commodity market. By 1998, Niman bought out Shell and, with Willis, formed the Niman Ranch Pork Co.—putting Willis in charge of scouting out small, sustainably focused farmers like himself to sell their raisedright pork for a guaranteed fair price. “I don’t know what we would have done if we didn’t find Niman,” says Willis’ daughter, Sarah, who lives and works on the farm today. “We would have had to quit farming, rent the land and move out.”
selves to high standards and market accordingly. But in the sparsely
As would many other farmers who are now part of Niman’s
populated heartland, farmers lacked such alternatives. The mantra
725-strong group of farmers, who not only get steady prices for their
was “get big or get out”—a mindset U.S. Secretary of Agriculture
meat, but have a financial stake in the company, too. At that pivotal
Earl Butz had popularized 20 years earlier and which became the
moment of the ’98 hog market crash, to say that the Niman Ranch
prevailing paradigm.
Pork Co. saved the day for many family farms is no exaggeration.
Meatpackers offered contracts to farmers who would switch to
“We were paying our farmers 43.5 cents a pound in that period in
large-scale industrial methods, and the CAFO boom was born. It su-
1998 when anyone else selling pigs was getting 8 or 15 cents,” says
persized the amount of cheap pork available to the American eater.
Willis.
Small farmers could no longer afford to stay in business—without
Originally he asked a handful of other farmers—mainly friends
a contract and without a viable alternative marketplace, those who
like John and Beverly Gilbert, who saw eye-to-eye with him and
didn’t go CAFO typically abandoned farming altogether.
raised their animals accordingly—if they’d be interested in selling
Enter Paul Willis. A third-generation farmer in Thornton, Willis
pork to Niman. The paycheck alone was a major incentive, but so
had always taken a keen interest in politics. Avoiding the Vietnam
was the philosophical comfort of working with a company that val-
War in the ’60s, he’d spent three years in Nigeria with the Peace
ued family farms. “We care about what market our product goes to,
Corps before coming back to take over the family farm from his ail-
and that right there puts us in the minority,” says John Gilbert.
ing stepfather. He’s an animal and nature lover with a passion for
But as they began buying pork from more and more farmers, they
land and waterway preservation, and he found the prospect of erect-
wanted to ensure that quality—both of the meat itself, and of the
ing a CAFO on his family farm too sickening to even consider.
lives the animals lived. Willis paired up with Diane Halverson, who
Willis kept farming the way he thought was right—allowing his
was working at the time with the Animal Welfare Institute, to de-
pigs to roam freely, rotating crops (corn and soybeans) and animals
velop a series of husbandry protocols for all Niman Ranch farmers
across his acres and never treating the pigs with antibiotics. His
to adhere to—whether they raise pigs, beef cattle, poultry or lambs.
meat was rich and full-flavored, which the fat-o-phobic ’80s market
A standardized system made it easy for prospective farmers to un-
was not interested in. In fact, Willis was getting paid less than mar-
derstand what Niman Ranch was all about. Though Halverson no
ket rate for having “overweight” pigs. Frustrated and faced with the
longer works with Niman Ranch (the company now partners with
prospect of losing his farm, Willis began searching for an alternative
renowned animal scientist Dr. Temple Grandin), the early guidelines
market, one that would appreciate his premium pork.
she developed remain in place.
He had to go to California to find what he was looking for.
The most important element of any Niman farm is that it is famEDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
OUTDOOR 2015
67
ily-run. That’s because
cle tissue—and flavor.
such farms tend to be
Big Ag pigs are bred to
smaller, use more tradi-
be lean, mean, “other
tional methods and their
white meat” machines.
owners tend to be more
“Why bother putting
invested in the future of
all this time and ener-
their land and animals
gy into raising animals
than paid hands at cor-
the right way if you’re
porate operations. Be-
going to ruin it all with
yond that, farmers must
a stressful slaughter?”
agree to never treat their
asks Willis.
animals with antibiotics
But the Iowa farmers
or hormones, feed them
and frolicking pigs aren’t
only
diets
the only parties to ben-
and raise them on envi-
efit. Eaters do, too. “The
ronmentally sustainable
genesis of Niman was re-
land. (Their definition of
ally not this higher call-
“sustainable” stipulates
ing of anything beyond
vegetarian
the desire for truly out-
that the farm or ranch must not “harm or damage the land and its natural resources, pre-
standing food,” says Jeff Tripician, chief marketing and sales officer
serving both for future generations.”)
with the company. “When Bill Niman started the company in 1972,
The humane methods laid out by Halverson and later Grandin
he said, ‘I’m going to provide myself with the greatest food possible.’
require that all Niman animals are raised outdoors on pasture or in
He thought he could do that in a very old-world way in terms of rais-
deeply bedded pens (covered structures with large nests of fresh
ing practices, but it was always connected to taste,” says Tripician.
straw on the floor and plenty of room for the animals to run around),
Niman farmers aren’t restricted to any particular breed of live-
and that the animals spend their entire lives with their littermates
stock, but most of them are drawn to heritage pigs (Durocs or Berk-
and natural social groups.
shires, for example), which tend to have a finer muscle texture and
Because the animals are allowed to act out their instincts, farm-
fuller flavor all around. “Niman has really helped bring a lot of mar-
ers don’t have to resort to many of the cruel methods CAFOs use to
ginal breeds back from the brink,” says Gilbert. “Conventional hog
curb the behavior that can arise in confined environments, such as
farmers raise white breed pigs, like Landrace or York, which are
docking tails, which CAFOs do to reduce biting. Piglets and calves
bred for leanness. Commodity pork has 15 to 20 percent saltwater
are weaned slowly, and the animals take nearly twice as long to reach
added, to keep it from drying out when it doesn’t have any fat,” he
market weight as their commercial cousins. And since Niman ani-
explains, shaking his head. “What’s the point?” “They spend a lot of
mals run around in and breathe fresh air, they rarely get sick, and the
time working on the flavor profile of the meat,” says Mary Cleaver,
need for antibiotics is essentially moot.
the owner of Cleaver Co. catering and the Green Table restaurant
All three of the hog farmers I visited in Iowa pointed out to me that
in Chelsea, who has been sourcing beef, lamb and pork from Niman
working with Niman allows them to enjoy the sheer act of farming.
for over a decade. “I love that Niman has such strong animal wel-
Being outside in fresh air, having healthy animals for their children
fare practices, and I love that they’re working hard to try to keep
and grandchildren to play with and taking pride in their land and an-
the food supply in a better place,” she says. “But if your product
imals are all intangible benefits that come from working with Niman.
doesn’t have a good flavor, no one is going to want to eat it.”
“Plus, they listen to farmers,” says John Gilbert—explaining that the company is receptive to discussion about better farming methods.
What started out as a few Bay Area chefs has expanded along with the explosion of America’s appetite for better ingredients
The care with which Niman farmers raise their animals extends
and conscious purchasing. While many top chefs like working di-
all the way through their life cycle: Animals are slaughtered at near-
rectly with small, local farmers, that involves some complicated
by custom plants that work specifically with Niman’s regulations.
realities. Maybe you only get one pork loin a week, or have to take
(Texas has no Niman processing facilities, thus there are no Niman
lamb off the menu when the local farmer you are partnered with
farms in the state.) “All farm animals have one bad day, and we’re
harvested one flock and is waiting for the next to fatten up. Ni-
always working to make even that last day less stressful,” says Sarah
man offers the convenience of ordering from a larger brand with
Willis. To that end, the animals are driven in groups over a relatively
the conscience of knowing the animals lived better lives. That
short distance, and guided in groups by rattles (not metal rods) in a
combination lands them on shelves around Texas at places such
progression from pen to pen, until they’re stunned and bled.
as Whole Foods Market and Wheatsville Food Co-op, as well as
Although it’s still a slaughterhouse, the whole process is de-
at local restaurants like Fork & Vine, Counter Cafe, Lenoir and
signed not just for profitability and speed, but to stress the animals
Trace via quality wholesale meat purveyor, Lone Star Foodser-
as little as possible, which makes them both easier to handle and
vice. Niman even sells to some fast-casual chains like Chipotle.
better-tasting; lactic acid from stress wreaks havoc on mus68
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
As the company has grown, its mission and its methods have,
too. Today, the company has field workers in each of the 28 states where its 725 family farms are located, and its agents pay regular visits to the farms to make sure that Niman protocols are upheld. The company doesn’t recruit new farmers to join its network; they rely instead on word-of-mouth between farmers—echoing the start of the Pork Company nearly 20 years ago. In 2009, the growing company merged with its chief investor, Chicago-based Natural Food Holdings. The change brought with it a huge increase in organization and profit, along with one very notable loss: Bill Niman vocally parted ways with the company over a dispute related to the cattle-handling practices, though the company kept his name. “We’ll still be friends for life,” says Sarah Willis, but it’s clear the breakup wasn’t easy. (Today Bill and his wife, Nicolette, still raise grassfed beef and pastured turkeys on the Bolinas fields where it all began—marketing the meat under the new name BN Ranch.) Despite parting ways with its founder, Niman Ranch has been able to make great strides toward protecting and promoting small family farms. “We realize that to get to the correct end—an outstanding product—we need to have the right beginning,” says Tripician. “We’ve become more mission-oriented in the past six years, in terms of making a difference in American agriculture. We are really trying to create an environment that rewards family farming. We don’t own the farms; we just provide them the financial foundation to have a vibrant life.” To that end, the company won’t sell to just anyone. “We have a healthy paranoia about having too large a customer,” says Tripician. “If it would put too much stress on the farmer to create supply, we’ll take a pass.” He mentions Walmart, Hyatt Hotels and Trader Joe’s as companies he’s turned down or ended relationships with in the past once they’d gotten too big. And even though Niman supplies Chipotle with meat, it’s only a percentage. Chipotle founder Steve Ells sources the rest from farmers who meet the same standards as Niman farmers.
ason So many re
s to…..
o Visit Blanc
For food-world insiders who see the words “Niman Ranch” displayed on high-end menus around town, learning just how small the company actually is comes as something of a surprise. Support for the Niman name runs deep. At a farmer appreciation luncheon last year at the upscale Italian restaurant Lincoln in Lincoln Center, fooderati from Marion Nestle to Tom Colicchio cut into Niman rib-eyes while watching home videos of ranchers in Idaho. Aside from any glitz or glamour associated with the Niman name, though, everything pales in comparison to the real benefits offered to the
kend Wild Women Wee15 April 10 & 11, 20 d.org wildwomenweeken
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farmers thousands of miles away: economic security and a support network of other progressive farmers. “There’s a lot of peer pressure in the farm industry out here,” explains John Gilbert back in Iowa Falls. “If you do things too differently, you won’t be accepted. Farming the way we do does make us a bit of an outsider, but it doesn’t bother me too much,” he says. “That’s what Niman Ranch does—it gives farmers like us a place to belong.” A version of this article first appeared in Edible Manhattan and is used here with permission. For more information, visit nimanranch.com
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69
WHAT I EAT and why
“J” IS FOR JAM BY L I SA SO LO M O N
“…you have what they have not, an intimate and profound feeling for nature and a power of brush, with the result that a beautiful picture by you is something absolutely definitive.” —Théodore Duret
A
bout a year after my daughter
I read that the spread was created by
and I moved from California
“gently cooking in the tradition of the
to Central Texas, I began read-
French countryside,” I was most excit-
ing “The Impressionists” by William
ed. When I opened the tightly sealed
Gaunt. Next to one of the paintings, I
cap, the early day’s light revealed small,
came across the above words of critic
deeply hued blue-black berries floating
Théodore Duret addressed to the hum-
atop a shiny, thick purple-black jam.
ble, steady, quiet and ultimately revered
Once spread on a slice of toasted grano-
19th-century painter Camille Pissarro—
la bread, the little berries created shad-
encouraging him to continue to paint
ows on the translucent layers of wild
pieces like “Orchard with Flowering
violet—reminiscent of how important
Fruit Trees.” The 1877 landscape Pissar-
the deep “analysis of shadow” was to the development of Pissarro’s work.
ro interpreted is a simultaneously calming and luminous French countryside scene captured and preserved
Remarkably, the bright, sweet, lively taste of blueberries grown
in time with its modest, cream-colored stone cottages, deep crimson
and picked in another country, in an earlier season, seemed not only
wooden shutters and vintage cobalt roofs tucked into a sloping green
present and pervasive but even enhanced. I imagined the fresh, tiny
hillside behind rows of white blossoming fruit trees. The painting is
fruits being gathered from an orchard like the one in Pissarro’s French
set in the Pontoise region of rural France where the nature-loving
countryside paintings, then steeped in small batches by the jam artisan
Pissarro and his family settled.
whose family had lived among the orchards for generations, and who
I learned that Pissarro, along with many other Impressionists at
knew that the berries would be savored later, in some other possibly
the time, like Edouard Manet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Berthe Mor-
distant locale, as something sweeter, softer and only slightly changed
isot, developed his art with dedication and integrity while persevering
by culinary taste, heat, the perspective of light and the passage of time.
through decades of financial strain, artistic obscurity and critical scorn.
Walking alone one morning in our suburban Austin neighbor-
Knowing the uncertain conditions under which these artists worked, I
hood, I noticed tiny, hard, lilac-hued berries scattered on the ground
appreciated even more the effects of luminous forest light on a wom-
beneath a row of tall evergreen trees. I later learned that the fruits
an’s skin in Manet’s once-controversial “The Luncheon on the Grass,”
are juniper berries from juniper trees (mistakenly called cedar
the enchanting shades of delicate color on shimmering wine glasses
trees), which, when dry-roasted, can be used to season meat. But it
and a half-full carafe of tawny rosé wine set on a lunch table next to the
was the painterly image of those still-foreign, smoky-lavender fruits
rolling, speckled-blue Seine in Renoir’s “The Rowers’ Lunch” and the
rhythmically appearing, smeared and whole, on the cold, pebbly,
creamy-soft touches of rainbow-infused light captured in loose brush-
gray sidewalk, and forming a watery stripe of color along the curve
strokes on a woman’s apron, a round table and the floor in Morisot’s “In
of the charcoal-black street, that was beautiful. They offered a great-
the Dining Room.” Each piece fully transported me to the locations they
er understanding of one of the principles of the Impressionists: to
depicted through masterful shadows, contours and light.
move away from the grand garden scenes and formal compositions
Wanting to experience these works even more intensely, I soon
to find beauty.
found myself scanning the markets for foods from the places where
Inspired by the touches of natural berry color, and in honor of
these works were created. I discovered a good variety of fig, red
the unpretentious pockets of beauty in this new place I was just be-
raspberry, black cherry, four fruit and wild blueberry jams imported
ginning to know, I adapted a jam recipe I’d first made in California.
from France. On the front of one of the jar’s labels, it read “A deli-
But while I was absorbing the comparatively spare but determined
cious fruit spread made in France by an old recipe.” However, when
rhythms of the Central Texas growing seasons and her more limit-
70
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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
ed but strong-tasting crops, the recipe began to reflect something simpler and deeper in color, taste and meaning. I have made this
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jam with fresh cranberries in the fall and frozen cranberries in the spring, and I never tire of seeing the deep shades of the raw red berries and how their imperfectly round shapes soften to become like translucent rubies—almost glowing before they darken and change shape in a thickening plum-red sauce. Their transformation is a further example of the power of change, the effects of temperature and movement, and the intricacies of light and shadows created and lost
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in small and perhaps larger, more mysterious ways. It’s what Pissarro meant when he told Morisot that “nature is the best of counsellors.” The jacket of my now-well-worn Impressionists book features Pissarro’s painting, “Woman in a Field.” The scene was painted in
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1887 when, after achieving both financial and critical success as an artist, Pissarro once again faced the rejection of buyers. He depicted—with exuberant, tiny brushstrokes of pale blues, rusty reds, warm whites, tender pinks and shaded greens—a rural setting of cottages behind a low, stone wall that frames a woman walking on open land. Yet, it’s the seemingly simple, violet-blue-gray shadows beneath a few small, scattered trees stretching across and creating the darkened contrast on the sun-tinted grass that give a visceral sense of movement to the scene and the tingling feeling of a peaceful summer day. The transporting image reminds me that timeless art, like ripe berries preserved in a jam, is inspired by a specific place at a specific time, with an intention to nourish, and perhaps comfort or even inspire, others in another place and at another time.
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CRANBERRY AND RUBY PORT JAM The color of this not-too-sweet jam is a chocolate-red, and the nuts add an earthy crunch. It is important to use medjool dates, and I’ve found both the taste and the color of organic cranberries to be richer. This jam is lovely served on simple toast, dolloped on a baked sweet potato or spread on a smoked turkey and Gruyère sandwich. It also makes a thoughtful hostess gift. Store in the refrigerator but bring to room temperature to serve. Makes about 2¼ cups ¼ c. Texas pecans, chopped or broken into small pieces 4 soft medjool dates, chopped or snipped into small pieces 1 c. light or dark brown sugar, packed 1 12-oz. bag fresh or frozen organic cranberries, rinsed and drained ¼ c. orange juice ¼ c. Pedernales Cellars Texas Ruby port In a heavy 2-quart saucepan with a lid, toast the pecans over medium heat—stirring with a wooden spoon until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Stir in the dates and the brown sugar and mix until combined. Add the cranberries, orange juice and port and cook, covered, until the mixture comes to a boil. Adjust the heat so that the mixture gently simmers and cook, uncovered, for about 15 minutes—stirring occasionally and squishing some of the berries against the side of the pan until the sauce becomes thickened. Remove from the heat to cool completely, then store refrigerated in a lidded glass container.
“‘J’ is for Jam” is adapted from “One Peaceful Moment,” a book-length collection of alphabetical stories with recipes highlighting the natural nourishment to be discovered on the other side of loss, and the sustaining and sometimes creative power of a well-chosen eating experience. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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edible GARDENS
ROMANCING THE TOMATO BY J ESS I CA RO B E RTSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T
M
arch is possibly my favorite time of year in the Central Texas garden. Spring starts to take a foothold with warmer days, which means warmer soil and the perfect time to plant to-
matoes. If you were prepared enough to start your tomato seeds in late December, then hats off to you. But if not, transplants aplenty can be found in local garden centers. Of course, seeing that bench of tomato transplants lined up like little soldiers is a mystical and sometimes overwhelming sight. If you’re like me, you usually end up with more than you have space for in the garden. It comes easier for a rare few, like my husband, who has a degree in horticulture and somehow dislikes fresh tomatoes. When asked which ones I should plant, his quick reply is, “Whichever ones make the best baseball practice!” So, how do you grow the perfect tomato? The answer is not simple, but if some basic guidelines are followed, you should be eating perfection by early summer. True Love Starts Early. Purchase the earliest transplants available and then plant them into larger pots using half potting soil and half worm castings (my signature secret). Provide lots of sun and warmth and bring them inside when cold temperatures threaten. This allows the plant to create a larger root system for quick establishment in the garden after the threat of frost is over—around mid-March in the Austin area.
the best tasting tomato is the fresh one from the garden. And although tasty and highly coveted in the culinary world, heirloom varieties are challenging to grow in Texas because the temperature gets hot very quickly. In my experience, these varieties do not produce well in the spring. I have much better success with heirloom crop yields in the fall garden, but I still recommend planting a few of both kinds in spring. Determinate or Indeterminate Varieties? Determinate va-
Love and Adore the Soil. If there’s only one thing to learn
rieties grow to a certain size, set flowers and fruit at one time and
about gardening, let it be my soil mantra: “Grow your soil and
then they are done. Many of the “heat-resistant” tomatoes are deter-
the plants will grow themselves.” Add quality, locally produced
minate—staying more compact and having the advantage of setting
compost to the soil, and amend with an organic starting fertilizer
fruit before the temperature gets hot. They also double as great vari-
that contains mycorrhizal fungi and humate. This will go a long
eties for fall planting, because you can harvest before our first frosts
way toward producing healthy plants and abundant fruit with
arrive. However, indeterminate varieties continue to grow and set
few problems. A 2006 study published in Scientia Horticultur-
fruit over an extended period of time, and have more days to ma-
ae found that tomatoes inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi have a
turity to produce what I like to call “Texas-sized” tomato plants. A
higher uptake of nitrogen and phosphorus, as well as fruit yields
nice trick is to cut back indeterminate tomatoes on July 4th by about
between 20- and 30-percent higher in drought-stress conditions.
two-thirds and fertilize heavily. Don’t be afraid! New, lush vegetative
Mycorrhizal fungi benefit plants in many ways, but the most rel-
growth will start setting fruit about the time we cool off in the fall.
evant to our Texas growing conditions is their ability to act as nature’s water conservationists.
Tomato Cuddling: Mulching is a Must! Mulching evens out soil moisture, which prevents cracking caused by extreme moisture fluctua-
Heirloom or Hybrid? Some believe that heirlooms taste better
tions. Mulching also prevents pathogens in the soil from being splashed
than hybrids. I think a blind taste test would reveal that even The To-
onto the lower leaves during heavy spring rains or overhead watering.
mato Man—one of my favorite customers who takes his tomatoes seri-
Be careful not to mulch too early as it can slow important soil warming
ously—wouldn’t be able to distinguish between the two. In my opinion,
in the spring.
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ITALIAN TOMATO SALAD Serves 8–10 ½ c. olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste ¼ c. lemon juice 6–8 T. coarsely chopped fresh sweet basil 1 large red onion, finely diced 1 large Texas 1015 yellow onion, finely diced 4–6 large garlic cloves, minced fine ¼ c. grated Parmesan cheese ¼ c. feta cheese crumbles ½ c. aged balsamic vinegar (the longer it’s aged, the better) 2 T. Zatarain’s Creole mustard 2 c. heaping fresh garden tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 /8 c. red wine vinegar 1 small container mozzarella balls, drained
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Combine all of the ingredients and chill for 4 hours. Serve with crackers or crostini.
JESSICA’S EASY TEXAS CHERRY TOMATO PASTA SAUCE Makes 4 quarts 1 T. olive oil 1 T. butter 1 large Texas 1015 yellow onion, diced 6 large garlic cloves, minced (I like Inchilium Red garlic) 1 lb. ground beef 1 gal. (or more) fresh mixed-variety cherry tomatoes, such as Yellow Pear, Sun Gold and Supersweet 100 1 15-oz. can tomato sauce 1 t. minced fresh oregano 1 t. minced fresh rosemary ½ t. minced fresh thyme 2 T. (or more) minced fresh sweet basil Salt and pepper, to taste Add the olive oil and butter to a large skillet and heat on medium-high until the butter is melted. Add the onion and sauté until almost soft and clear, then add the garlic and sauté for 1 or 2 minutes more. Add the beef and cook until it’s no longer pink—stirring often. Add the cherry tomatoes, cover and cook on medium-high heat—stirring occasionally. When the cherry tomatoes start to burst, use a potato masher to mash them in the skillet. Add the tomato sauce, oregano, rosemary, thyme, basil, salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until the sauce reaches the desired consistency. Serve over pasta. Sauce may be doubled and frozen for easy weekday meals.
JESSICA’S 2015 TOP 10 TOMATO VARIETIES 1. Porter Improved - Ind. 2. Yellow Pear Heirloom - Ind. 3. Solar Fire - Det. 4. Tycoon - Det. 5. Brandy Boy Hybrid - Ind. 6. SteakHouse Hybrid - Ind.
7. Sun Gold - Ind. 8. Phoenix Hot-Set - Det. 9. Cherokee Purple Heirloom - Ind. 10. Celebrity - Semi-Det. Ind. = Indeterminate Det. = Determinate EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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THE FLUFF STUFF homemade marshmallows BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO
M
arshmallows and the great outdoors go hand in hand.
mention the occasional encounter with objects-in-Jell-O—kept
Sadly, though, a fireside-charred marshmallow oozing
our family in touch with this fluffy confection.
delightfully between chocolaty graham crackers was
Marshmallows first appeared on the candy scene in France in
never a mainstay of my childhood because we weren’t a camping
small candymakers’ shops. They were a labor-intensive candy
family. But in spite of my deprivation, I was no stranger to the
called pâté de guimauve (paste of the mallow plant), originally
marshmallow; school events that demanded Rice Krispies Treats,
made by sweetening the thick, gummy extract from the roots of
years of holidays and gallons of hot chocolate slurped—not to
the marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis) plant and often infused
with rosewater. Mallow plants are typically found in salt marshes and on the banks of bodies of water, hence the “marsh” in their name. Plants in the mallow family, botanically named Malvaceae, contain natural gums called mucilage, pectin and asparagin, which are responsible for gelling. In the late 19th century, marshmallows took on their modern style when French candy manufacturers added egg whites or gelatin, and stabilizers such as modified cornstarch. They were made and displayed in long ropes, and served at exclusive restaurants after dessert—snipped by the waiter into small “pillows” at the patrons’ table. Today’s store-bought marshmallow hardly resembles this version, though, and can include all sorts of undesirable ingredients, such as blue dye to make it white and artificial flavor to make it taste like… a marshmallow? Making your own marshmallows at home isn’t too difficult; all that’s needed is mixing technology—ideally a stand mixer, but a powerful hand-held mixer will work, too—unflavored gelatin, something sweet, some sort of liquid, flavoring agents like extracts or spices, and something starchy to dust the finished product. A candy thermometer is helpful, but not required. Egg whites are an optional addition, though recipes that use them swear by their fluffiness-enhancing powers. In my opinion, the added fluffiness results in an effervescent feeling as the marshmallows melt on the tongue. Corn syrup is helpful, though also not required. Karo brand syrup found on grocery shelves does not contain high fructose corn syrup, which is the modified and more intensely sweetened version common in food processing. Corn syrup is an invert sugar and helps prevent granulated sugar from crystallizing after being melted. When using Karo, be sure to get the “light” version (referring to the color) and not the “lite” version (skip the added chemicals and go for the caloric glory). If omitting the corn syrup, it’s best to use a candy thermometer to make sure the syrup mixture reaches 245°. Beyond the basic sugar recipe, I’ve included a recipe that omits refined sugar and corn syrup just in case these become a staple at home—which might very well happen. For both versions, I recommend adding spices, such as cinnamon, raw cacao, powdered ginger, mint or citrus extract, or even a splash of whisky or bourbon to develop personalized flavors. Rest assured, with these marshmallows I’ve now made up for all the fireside s’mores I didn’t get to eat as a kid. And I’ve learned that sea-salted rice crackers make for an outstanding gluten-free s’more. Roasting homemade marshmallows is a little different from roasting the store-bought variety, because they melt quite fast when they are very fresh. If no campfires are on the horizon, the broiler or even a candle will do for helping them reach the optimal s’more melt.
BASIC MARSHMALLOW RECIPE Yields 1 9-by-13-inch pan ½ c. confectioners’ sugar ½ c. cornstarch (or potato or arrowroot starch) 1 c. water, divided 3¼-oz. packets unflavored gelatin (or 3 T. Great Lakes brand unflavored beef gelatin) 1½ c. granulated sugar 2 T. Karo light corn syrup ¼ t. salt 2 t. vanilla extract In a medium-size bowl, sift together the confectioners’ sugar and cornstarch and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, evenly sprinkle the gelatin over ½ cup of the water. Let it sit while preparing the sugar syrup. Combine the granulated sugar, corn syrup and the remaining ½ cup of water in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar granules. Raise the heat when there are no more sugar granules and bring to a rolling boil for 1 minute. If using a candy thermometer, the syrup temperature should be 245°. Remove the sugar mixture from the heat, turn the mixer on low and slowly pour the contents of the saucepan along the side of the mixing bowl containing the gelatin mixture. (Do not pour the mixture onto the whisk as it will splatter the mixture and possibly burn you.) Once the contents of the sugar pan are fully incorporated, add the salt and gradually increase the mixer speed to high. Beat on high for 12 minutes. While this mixes, prepare the pan by greasing it with unflavored oil or butter. Sift a light layer of the prepared confectioners’ sugar mixture onto the greased pan. As the mixing finishes, turn the mixer speed down to low and add the vanilla extract or other flavor agents. Increase the mixer speed again to incorporate the flavors evenly. Using a scraper spatula, quickly guide the mixture into the prepared pan and smooth the top to make an even sheet. Sift the prepared confectioners’ sugar mixture over the top—using your hands to smooth it evenly. Let it sit in a cool, dry place for at least 4 to 6 hours, ideally overnight. Do not refrigerate. Keep the remaining confectioners’ sugar mixture for the next stage. To cut the marshmallows, gently unstick the sides of the marshmallow sheet from each side of the molding pan and coax the sheet onto a large, walled cookie sheet. Cut into squares with a pizza cutter or knife, or into other shapes using simple cookie cutters, and drop, one at a time, into the confectioners’ sugar mixture to coat. If making other flavors, add spices, cacao powder, dried coconut shreds, etc. to the confectioners’ sugar mixture before coating the cut marshmallows. Store in airtight containers, unrefrigerated, for up to 2 weeks. If marshmallows become damp during storage, repeat the dusting process as needed.
CINNAMON HONEY MARSHMALLOWS Yields 1 8-by-8-inch pan 1 c. arrowroot starch (or potato or cornstarch) 1 c. water, divided 2 ¼-oz. packets unflavored gelatin (or 2 T. Great Lakes brand unflavored beef gelatin) 2 egg whites ¾ c. local honey ¼ t. salt 1 t. vanilla extract ½ t. cinnamon Pour the arrowroot into a medium-size bowl and set aside. In a separate, small bowl, evenly sprinkle the gelatin over ½ cup of the water and set aside. Combine the honey and the other ½ cup water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir to dissolve the honey in the water. Raise the heat once the honey dissolves and bring to a rolling boil for approximately 4 minutes. Use a candy thermometer to ensure the marshmallows will set properly. While the honey mixture is heating, use a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment to beat the egg whites until they are frothy. Add the salt and turn the mixer to high when the honey mixture reaches 210°. When the honey mixture reaches 245°, remove the pan from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low and slowly pour the contents of the saucepan along the side of the mixing bowl containing the egg whites. (Do not pour the mixture onto the whisk as it will splatter and possibly burn you.) Increase the mixer speed to medium. Once the contents of the pan are fully incorporated, quickly scrape the gelatin mixture into the still-hot saucepan to dissolve the clumpy gelatin. The residual heat from the pan will melt the gelatin and do not worry if there are white streaks in the mixture from the honey. Pour the liquefied gelatin into the mixer bowl—taking the same precautions not to splash. Gradually increase the mixer speed to high. Beat on high for 12 minutes. Follow the directions for flavoring, molding and cutting in the Basic Marshmallow Recipe—substituting the arrowroot starch for the confectioners’ sugar dusting.
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SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER
GOOD FOR THE SOUL BY ELLEN ORABONE
C
ommunity gardens are on the rise in Austin. While the growing
ing activities ease ADHD symptoms in children, and that trees help
number of community gardens can be attributed to heightened
alleviate fatigue induced by urban environments. Other health bene-
awareness of the health benefits of local, fresh food, we at Sus-
fits attributed to gardening outdoors include lowered blood pressure,
tainable Food Center (SFC) are convinced that more Austinites are grow-
a stronger immune system and stress relief. And let’s not forget that
ing their own food because many of them realize that gardening is good
gardening increases our access to healthy foods.
for the soul. We might not be able to explain the warm, fuzzy feeling that
Whether you are new to gardening or serve as a leader in your
gardening gives us, but we know that getting our hands in the soil and
community garden, SFC’s Grow Local team is here to help you on
growing our own food calms us and makes us inexplicably happy.
your journey. We offer gardening classes, support for community and
Outdoor gardening has several proven health benefits for adults
school gardens, free gardening resources and an on-site teaching gar-
and children. Researchers at the Department of Integrative Physiol-
den at the new SFC building. So get out there and garden! It’s the
ogy and the Center for Neuroscience at the University of Colorado
perfect activity for enjoying the outdoors, improving your health and
Boulder have linked working in the soil to increased happiness, and
increasing your access to local foods.
have found that a certain soil bacteria has antidepressant qualities. Studies conducted by the Landscape and Human Health Laborato-
Ellen Orabone is the Grow Local Teaching Garden coordinator
ry at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign indicate that
for the Sustainable Food Center. For more information, visit
spending time outdoors in a natural setting and partaking in garden-
sustainablefoodcenter.org/programs/grow-local
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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LA CASITA DE BUEN SABOR
MERCURIAL MARCH IN A BOWL BY LUCINDA HUTSON
D
isaster struck on my birthday in late February one year.
stemmed Swiss chard, spinach and verdant salad greens. The final
I’d taken a huge potted agave plant out of my greenhouse
hurrah for arugula draws near; a bite of the lobed leaves with
a few weeks too early, just when its once-in-a-lifetime
their nutty, peppery, mustardy flavor will become too fiery when
flower stalk (called a quiote) had started to emerge (soon to shoot
the cream-colored flowers bolt in warmer April. (However, I still
15 feet into the sky!). I’d eagerly awaited this spectacle ever since
sow seeds now for wild arugula, sometimes called “rustica” or
bringing the small pup back from an agave field in Mexico—an
“sylvetta.” Its more finely serrated leaves, trailing nature and yel-
offspring of a majestic blue agave, the plant from which tequila is
low flowers set it apart—and it abides the heat better than other
made. Instead, a quirky late-winter ice storm froze and battered
arugula.) Edible Johnny-jump-ups and pansies thrive in cooler
the beloved plant I’d tended for a decade. Sadly, I watched her for-
weather, and herbs such as rosemary, sage, thyme, winter savory
midable sword-like leaves and central core slowly melt into mush.
and oregano may be only briefly damaged by hard freezes and
As an avid gardener, I’ve learned over the years to keep my
rebound quickly.
tender plants protected until mid-March. After all, during this
To accompany March’s bipolar personality, here’s a soup to serve
time of year we could garden sleeveless on Tuesday morning, and
either hot or cold. A Portuguese fisherman’s wife in Morro Bay—a
a Blue Norther could whip in that night. It’s a doggone mercurial
fishing community along the central California coast—shared this
month for sure—calling for a fire pit…or a fan. Yes, March is a
recipe with me when I lived there after college. White cannellini
trickster and a tease.
beans, potatoes, spicy sausage and fennel bulb fresh from the gar-
But it’s a glorious season in the garden for herbs that dislike
den flavor this rich and hearty soup. Splurge on a bottle of sherry
our summer heat—such as fennel, dill, parsley and coriander
to add a special touch, and serve the soup warm with rustic bread,
(better known around here as cilantro)—herbs in the Umbellif-
or chilled and garnished with garlicky crostini or Parmesan crisps.
erae family (with umbrella-shaped clusters of tiny flowers that
A salad of orange segments, olives and red onion in a tangy, citrusy
burst into seeds). Their aromatic, feathery foliage make pretty
vinaigrette makes the perfect accompaniment. And don’t forget a
garnishes, and their pungent flavor enlivens many dishes. For-
bottle of vinho verde, the “green” (young) Portuguese wine with
ays into the March garden also yield crunchy kale and rainbow-
citrus and mineral notes and a bit of fizz.
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MERCURIAL MARCH IN A BOWL
H E R E ’S S O M E I M P O R TA N T N U M B E R S TO C H E W O N
Serves 8–10 1 lb. dried cannellini beans (Great Northern or navy beans may have to do in a pinch) 3 T. olive oil 1 large white onion, chopped 2 or 3 leeks, white parts only, chopped 1 large fennel bulb (about 1 lb.), loosely chopped, reserving feathery foliage 4 garlic cloves, chopped 3 fresh bay leaves 2 t. fennel seeds ½ t. crushed red pepper 3 T. chopped Italian parsley 7–8 c. rich chicken (or vegetable) stock 1½ lb. white or new potatoes, unpeeled, cubed large ¾ lb. precooked spicy sausage (such as kielbasa), cooked on a griddle and then sliced ½ c. amontillado sherry Optional condiments: Chopped green onions, chopped fennel leaves, lemon slices, crushed cayenne, Italian parsley sprigs Rinse the beans—discarding any pebbles and shriveled or discolored beans. Place the beans in a large pot and cover with about 2 inches of water. Over medium heat, bring to a gentle boil. Immediately remove from the heat and allow to stand for about an hour. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil and cook the onion, leeks and fennel until slightly softened—about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, bay leaves, fennel seeds, crushed red pepper and parsley and cook another few minutes. Drain the beans. Add the onion-fennel mixture and about 7 cups of stock to the pot. Bring to a gentle boil then reduce to simmer and cook until the beans are almost tender—about 1½ hours. If more liquid is needed, add small amounts of warm stock or water to prevent the beans from splitting. (The secret is simmering the soup very slowly on low heat, with just a few bubbles along the edge of the pan, and with just enough liquid to cover the beans by about 2 inches.) Add the potatoes and salt and pepper and cook for about 10 minutes. Add the sausage and cook for another 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Add the sherry and 4 tablespoons of the reserved and chopped fennel leaves during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Adjust the seasoning if needed and remove the pot from the heat. Let the pot stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with fresh fennel sprigs. Like many soups, it tastes even better the next day.
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TO SERVE CHILLED: I usually serve the soup hot one day (eating the sausage) and chilled the next, when it is even more flavorful. Using an immersion blender or a blender, puree the soup—adding more stock as needed and a big splash of sherry and perhaps some vinho verde. If you want more texture, reserve some of the soup without pureeing and combine it with the pureed mixture. Chill for 6 hours. Adjust flavors before serving. Optional condiments: Parmesan crisps, garlicky crostini, chopped green onions or chives, diced red onion, chopped arugula, fennel or Italian parsley, crispy pancetta or bacon. To make Parmesan crisps, heat the oven to 375°. On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, place heaping tablespoons of shredded Parmesan (flattened evenly with the back of a spoon) about 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with paprika or crushed red pepper. Bake about 6 minutes until crisp and golden. Let cool, then remove with a spatula. Place vertically in the soup with a sprig of fennel before serving.
(888) 690-3646 2100 FM 1431 W, Marble Falls TX 78654 HealthySmilesforLife.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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DEPARTMENT OF ORGANIC YOUTH
A LITTLE GREEN WITCH BY ANANDA FRY MYHRE
O
n a stroll through the Texas hills,
often with plants that we’d harvested from
one might see prickly ash, prickly
our own backyards. Passionflower vine—a
pear, juniper, agarita or nettles. To
lovely, soothing plant used to treat anxiety
the untrained eye, these are simply plants
and insomnia—was our class favorite. We
or weeds, but to the eye of an herbalist,
sold our mixtures at farmers markets and
they’re unique with their own stories, per-
gave them as gifts to relatives.
sonalities, Latin names, plant families and
Little Green Witches had camps and
sub-families. Best of all, they’re considered
more classes, but eventually our group
medicinal and used for their antimicrobi-
drifted apart, and Ginger and I began work-
al and stimulant properties, to strengthen
ing together in an apprentice relationship.
kidney function and to balance blood sug-
Another student (Laurel Tashjian) and I
ar. Herbalism is the art of working with
help Ginger conduct research for her class-
plants to heal ourselves—body, mind and
es, and we make fire cider, smudge sticks,
spirit—and I am an herbalist.
medicine and yummy foods like herb-in-
Some people might call me a hippie,
fused honey. We spend blissful hours in a
flower child, free spirit or any other such
world of plants. I also do work days with
name. I owe most of these attributes to my
Ginger, where we make endless batches of tinctures and wash the mountain of used
upbringing; I was born on the land where I still live, and my father is the permaculture enthusiast Kirby Fry. I
glass jars that vary in size from 1 ounce to a gallon and range in color
grew up with a backdrop of love and appreciation for the Earth. I re-
from brown, to clear, to blue. I’ve learned how the business works:
member being a kid and having my father call me outside to see the
all of the business calls, the records of everything we’ve made, the
beauty of our bluestem meadow in the Texas twilight. I also remem-
research when a new product is in the pipes, the orders to the organ-
ber eating briar tips like candy, and staring into the inner workings
ic herb supplier, the honey and apple cider vinegar purchased by the
of a winecup flower thinking there couldn’t be anything more lovely.
gallons—and so much more.
When I was about 11, my family and I were lucky enough to
To me, herbalism is a sacred art form, and the work space is
connect with Austin herbalist Ginger Webb, who owns Texas
the temple. When walking into Ginger’s workshop, the senses are
Medicinals. Ginger sells tinctures, teas, salves, cordials and
flooded with smells of herbs—powdered, dried and fresh. And I’ve
syrups—all with the purpose of healing the body and helping with
learned that just as I move thoughtfully through the workshop in
overall health. Over the years, she’s taught adult and youth class-
fear of bumping glass bottles, so do I tread when walking through a
es, led herb walks and camps and offered private consultations. She
field, from the knowledge that what I’m walking on, and surround-
follows her bliss and sees that the art of herbalism lives on, and she
ed by, is medicine.
views the practice of healing through herbs as more than science—
When people ask me what I want to do when I grow up, I always
it’s spiritual. Immediately upon learning of herbalism, I was hooked,
list herbalism as one of the top options. Working in harmony with
and knew that this would have to be a part of my life.
nature to heal is one of the most magical feelings. Whether I’ll be
Ever since becoming student and teacher, Ginger and I have
healing myself, my future children or sharing my knowledge and
worked together with speed, ease and fun. Our relationship first be-
preparations with the public, herbalism is certainly a practice that
gan with her weekly classes, called “Little Green Witches” for ho-
will always remain a big part of my life. Once a Little Green Witch,
meschooled youth. Every week, seven of us would gather around
always a Little Green Witch.
Ginger and learn about herbalism: the intricacies of classification; the types of leaf and flower structures; the medicinal benefits of
Ananda Fry Myhre is a 16-year-old native Austinite who attends
plants; the body and how it works; chakras; flavors and energetics.
Austin Community College. When not occupied with her studies,
We would create all sorts of medicines in her big shiny work kitchen,
she explores her passion for healing foods and plants.
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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Alamo Pecan & Coffee Company We sell freshly shelled pecan halves and pieces as well as a variety of gourmet pecan candies and gourmet coffees. Large variety of gift baskets and tins. 325-372-5275 601 E. Wallace, San Saba alamopecan.com
Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com
BAKERIES
Antonelli’s Cheese Shop
Blackbird Bakery
We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com
Blackbird Bakery is the premier supplier of prepared gluten-free pastries, breads and gluten-free flour blends in Austin. 512-971-7955 blackbird-bakery.com
Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 800-962-4263 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram brokenarrowranch.com
Royers Pie Haven Royers Pie Haven is a place you can come grab a slice of handmade sweet and savory pies, amazing coffee & sweet treats. 512-474-2800 2900 B Guadalupe St. 979-249-5282 190 Henkel Circle, Round Top royerspiehaven.com
The Culinary Factory Retail and food service co-packers for individual companies and restaurants, full service commissary kitchen and fulfillment center. 512-289-1282 3913 Todd Ln. #203 theculinaryfactory.com
Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired. 512-363-5622 2032 S. Lamar Blvd. ilikelick.com
BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery and vineyards with tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com
Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422 brooklynbrewery.com
Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a famly-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com
High Brew Coffee A low calorie, cold-brew coffee made of the highest quality ingredients in a handy 8oz. can providing a smooth, bold experience that is Better, Not Bitter™. 512-853-9696 highbrewcoffee.com
Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com
Texas Hills Vineyard Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 930-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com
Thirsty Planet Brewing Co. Thirsty Planet Brewing Company is located in Austin, TX and brews year round and seasonal craft beer. Brewed with Passion, Committed to the Planet. 512-579-0679; 11160 Circle Dr. thirstyplanet.net
Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com
Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937 - Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 12528 Texas 71, Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com
Wedding Oak Winery Texas winery using 100% Texas grown wine grapes located in a historic 1926 building. Open 7 days a week. Specializes in Mediterranean varietals. Great patio. 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com
BOOKSELLERS
Royalty Pecan Farms A family owned and operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts. 979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy 21 E, Caldwell royaltypecans.com
Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods
CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Firehouse Libations Authentic craft cocktail catering service with stylishly furnished bar arrangements. 512-992-5670 605 Brazos St. firehouselibations.com
Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food and surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com
Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com
DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836 texasovenco.com
EDUCATION Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743 6020-B Dillard Cir. escoffier.edu
Bullock Texas State History Museum Experience the legendary story of Texas through exhibits, films and programs at the Bullock Museum and IMAX Theatre. Convenient parking, cafe and store. 512-936-4649 1800 N. Congress Ave. thestoryoftexas.com
Integrity Academy The Integrity Academy at Casa de Luz, Center for Integral Studies is a small, secular, private, year-round school serving families and children ages 3 - 18. 512-535-1277 1701 Toomey Rd. integrityacademy.org
The Natural Epicurean
Paula’s Texas Spirits
BookPeople
Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com
Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com
At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com
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edible MARKETPLACE ÂŽ
Hill Country Lavender
All Natural, DEET-Free Insect Repellent Made from 100% Essential Oils
blanco, texas
Texas 1st Commercial Lavender Farm
Offering a full line of handcrafted local lavender products
Portable Personal Protection Anytime...Anywhere... Smells Good to You...Tastes Bad to Bugs!
Visit our year round location at Brieger Pottery, Blanco TX Mon - Thur 10 - 5 Fri & Sat 10 - 8 / Sun 10 - 4 call 830.833.2294 or Shop Online
Visit Bug-Bouncer.com to find a local retailer near you
www.hillcountrylavender.com
Open Year Round Market Hours: Tuesday: 2-6 Saturday: 10-2 Buy Local-Eat Fresh
Bastrop 1832 Farmers Market 1302 Chestnut St. Bastrop, TX Next to the Convention Center
Soup, Salads, Sandwiches, Local Beer & Wine Featuring 12 of Blanco’s Real Ale beers on tap Mon. - Thur. 10:30 am - 3:30 pm Fri. - Sat. 10:30 am - 9:00 pm & Sunday 10 :00 am - 3:00 pm
Our food is made fresh using premium products, and featuring local lavender lemonade. 830-833-0202 / www.redbud-cafe.com
austin reserve gin
STORY AND NUTRIFACTS AT: DOSLUNASCHEESE.COM
revolutionspirits.com
Visit us soon & discover a wide variety of fresh, locally grown vegetables & fruits, grass-fed beef, eggs, local honey, herbs, plants, prepared foods, baked goods, breads, artisan wares, & more! www.bastrop1832farmersmarket.org
present a
event
CHILDREN'S PICNIC & REAL FOOD FAIR French Legation Museum • 802 San Marcos St. No Hormones • No Antibiotics • Grass Finished
Sunday, March 29 • 1–5 pm bring a picnic • grow a garden • play games meet farmers & local food vendors cooking demos • music and more!
www.HeritageLeanBeef.com | 830-683-7198
Thanks to our Sponsors:
UT Austin Division of Diversity and Community Engagement Blue Lux Fashion with a Conscience • Pure Spoon
edible DC
Celebrating the Local Food Culture of the Capitol Region, Season by Season
Mick Klug on Peaches
Refresh: Cold Summer Soups T H E H E I R LO O M TO M ATO
SUMMER 2014
•
A MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES
•
ISSUE 24
Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communtiies
Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 25 • Summer 2014
Javier Plascencia | Organic Beer | Smit Farms | No-dirt Gardening Tulloch Farms | Crime in the Fields | Native Plant Gardening
edible Toronto Member of Edible Communities
®
AND THE GOLDEN HORSESHOE
No. 15 • Spring 2011
edible TULSA
Inspired | Informative | Influential
Spring’s Bean Sprung! Overindulge in Asparagus while the Local Pickings are Good Romance the Palate, Latin American Style Taste Prince Edward County Resurrect Tradition
Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities
EVENTS
FARMERS MARKETS
Austin Food + Wine Festival
Lone Star Farmers Market
The Austin Food + Wine Festival returns with packed with grill flares and topshelf pairs, access to culinary, wine and spirit talent at dozens of cooking demos and panels. Plus, indulge in over 80 wine, spirit and artisanal food exhibitors. Auditorium Shores austinfoodandwinefestival.com
City of La Grange Main Street & Visitors Bureau Visit us for an exciting weekend filled with everything from shopping to eating to wine tastings to museums. We’ve even got a state park. 979-968-3017 visitlagrangetx.com
Loot Vintage Rentals Loot Vintage Rentals is Texas’ largest purveyor of vintage furniture, tabletop elements, and handcrafted goods available for hire. Styling services avail. 512-464-1184 3700 Thompson St. lootvintagerentals.com
Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce 830-693-2815 marblefalls.org
Old Gruene Market Days
Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com
Sustainable Food Center SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org
Texas Farmers Market Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 am–1 pm, Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 am–2 pm, the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org
FARMS Richardson Farms
Third full weekend, Feb-Nov. Nearly 100 vendors offer uniquely crafted items and packaged Texas foods. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday & Sunday. Free admission. 830-629-5077 1601 Hunter Rd., Gruene gruenemarketdays.com
Our cattle are strictly grassfed. The hogs and chickens are pastured and are never given any growth hormones or antibiotics. 512-446-2306 richardsonfarms.com
Recycling The Past
Capital Farm Credit
Architecture, design and nature all collide at our 12,000 sq. foot sales and event venue in Round Top, TX. Procurers of architectural salvage and oddities. 609-618-7606 1132 FM 1291 N, Round Top recyclingthepast.com
Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair Attracting more than 8,500 fanatic foodies, the Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair is recognized as the most anticipated culinary attraction of the year. 713-747-9463 sugarlandwineandfoodaffair.com
Texas VegFest Texas VegFest is a family-friendly, educational event celebrating the health, environmental and animal welfare benefits of plant-based lifestyles. 512-650-8343 2101 Jesse E. Segovia St. texasvegfest.com
FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts. 512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk, Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson, La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado, Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com
GROCERS Farmhouse Delivery We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs, and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com
Royal Blue Grocery
Wiseman Family Practice
Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 512-480-0036; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com
Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 3345 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. 101 3801 South Lamar wisemanfamilypractice.com
Wheatsville Food Co-op
Callahan’s General Store
Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888 4001 S. Lamar Blvd. wheatsville.coop
Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com
HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com
Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com
The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com
LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
HEALTH AND BEAUTY Hill Country Memorial Hospital Hill Country Memorial is a nationally recognized nonprofit hospital in Fredericksburg with a reputation of delivering remarkable care. 830-997-4353 1020 S. State Hwy. 16, Fredericksburg 830-428-2345 1580 S. Main St., Ste. 101, Boerne 844-362-7426 1331 Bandera Hwy., Ste. 3, Kerrville 830-693-7942 2511 US Highway 281, Ste. 800, Marble Falls 830-798-1821 204 Gateway N., Ste. B, Marble Falls hillcountrymemorial.org
Peoples Rx Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com
The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org
Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net
Backbone Valley Nursery A destination garden center with over 14 acres of plants, vegetables, orchids, trees, and landscape supplies. Once you find us you won’t forget us! 830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls backbonevalleynursery.com
Gabriel Valley Farms We are a wholesale nursery specializing in growing certified organic herb & vegetable plants. Look for our “yellow tag” plants at your favorite nursery. 512-930-0923 gabrielvalleyfarms.com
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The Great Outdoors Nursery
The Inn at Wild Rose Hall
Land & Ranch Realty, LLC
Chez Nous
A garden store and so much more! 512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com
A one of a kind event venue with lodging blending relaxing natural beauty with vintage hill country style. 512-380-5683 11110 Fitzhugh Rd. theinnatwildrosehall.com
Assisting buyers and sellers in Texas land transactions involving ranches, farms, and live water recreational properties. 210-275-3551 382 Hwy. 83 S., Leakey landandranchrealty.com
A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413; 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com
Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com
LODGING AND TOURISM Agarita Creek Hill Country Ranch Retreat Stay in secluded bliss in one of two spacious log houses on a bluff overlooking the Pedernales River and Fredericksburg on a 170 acre ranch. Perfect for families, gatherings of friends or just you two. 830-992-5283 968 Braeutigam Rd., Fredericksburg agaritacreek.com
Barton Springs Bike Rental Bike Rentals 512-480-0200 1707 Barton Springs Road bartonspringsbikerental.com
Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food! 512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com
Brenham/Washington County CVB Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries, great lodging. 979-836-3696; 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com
Blanco Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau Discover the fun and beauty of the Texas Hill Country in Blanco. We are your source of where to eat, shop, stay and play in Blanco. 830-833-5101 312 Pecan St., Blanco blancochamber.com
City of Marfa Vacation destination 432-729-4772 302 S. Highland Ave., Marfa visitmarfa.com
Deer Lake Lodge and Spa Deer Lake is an organic spa and resort. We offer a full service spa and salon, juicing classes, yoga, weekend retreats and a respite from every day life. 936-647-1383 10500 Deer Lake Lodge Rd, Montgomery deerlakelodge.com
Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking Classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com
PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART The Contemporary Austin The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education and the collections. The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org
Marta Stafford Fine Art Located in the Texas Hill Country, housed in a historic early 1900s bank. Work by national & regional artists. Figural work, Impressionistic landscapes and more. 830-693-9999 200 Main St., Marble Falls martastaffordfineart.com
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com
Eco Mama Locally owned and operated Holistic Cleaning Company. Provides detailed cleaning with highly trained staff that is paid a great living wage. 512-659-9633 ecomamacleaning.com
Nunnally and Freeman Dentistry Holistic dentists known the world over for excellence. 830-693-3646 2100 Hwy. 1431 W., Marble Falls healthysmilesforlife.com
REAL ESTATE Green Mango Real Estate Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single Realtor. 512-923-6648; 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com
District Kitchen+Cocktails
RESTAURANTS Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf theabgb.com
District proudly partners with local farms and businesses to create an eclectic seasonal brunch and dinner menu. The industrial-style decor or the huge tree covered patio makes for a great dining atmosphere. 512-351-8436 5900 W. Slaughter Ln., Ste D500 districtaustin.com
East Side Pies Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com
Barley Swine / Odd Duck Inspired by our farmer friends. Check out oddduckaustin.com for our latest menu offerings. Make your reservation at barleyswine.com for our tasting menu. Odd Duck: 512-433-652 1201 S. Lamar Blvd. oddduck.com Barley Swine: 512-394-8150 2024 S. Lamar Blvd. barleyswine.com
Baxters On Main Casual fine dining restaurant and catering. We welcome private parties. Catering for all of your needs. 512-321-3577 919 Main St., Bastrop baxtersonmain.com
We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Gluten-free options, too! 512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com
Green Pastures Located in old South Austin a mile-anda-half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747 811 W. Live Oak St. greenpasturesrestaurant.com
Hoover’s Cooking From scratch Texas home cooking. Serving comfort food favorites like CFS, meatloaf and southern-style veggies; vegetarian options. BBQ, Sat. and Sun. breakfast. 512 479-5006 2002 Manor Rd. hooverscooking.com
Jack Allen’s Kitchen
Buenos Aires Cafe Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave buenosairescafe.com
Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com
Jobell Cafe & Bistro Cafe Josie Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients. 512-322-9226 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com
We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 Ranch Road 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com
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presents
Currently showing on PBS Television Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com
www.ediblecommunities.com
Kerbey Lane Cafe
Otto’s German Bistro
Thai Fresh
Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar
Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com
Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats. Local beers and wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com
Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients. 512-494-6436 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com
The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com
ThunderCloud Subs
SPECIALTY MARKET
The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com
Ronin Cooking, LLC Chef Brian Light and his wife Amanda operate out of an old barn converted into a commercial kitchen. Full Moon dinners on their farm and other special events. 979-574-8745 RoninCooking.com
For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com
Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com
The Mercantile Wine and tapas bar located in Dripping Springs. 512-829-4723 211 Mercer St., Dripping Springs mercantileonmercer.com
A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant, 100% locally sourced meat and produce, house made deli meats, charcuterie and salumi. 512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com
The Turtle Restaurant
Sweet Ritual
Vaudeville & V Supper Club
Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com
Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com
Vaudeville is the foodie Mecca in the Hill Country. You will find under one roof a bistro, wine & gourmet market, a fine dining restaurant & much more! 830-992-3234 230 E. Main, Fredricksburg vaudeville-living.com
Buffalo Exchange New & Recycled Fashion. Buy, sell, trade designer wear, basics, vintage, and oneof-a-kind items. You can receive cash or trade for clothing on the spot! 512-480-9922 2904 Guadalupe St. buffaloexchange.com
Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com
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Tom Sachs, Miffy Fountain, 2008. Silicon bronze and paint (3-part catalyzed acrylic, white primer, white base coat, “Xtreme” Flat Finish Klearkote). 111 x 102 x 102 inches. Installation view, The Contemporary Austin– Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria, Austin, 2015. Courtesy Tom Sachs Studio. Photograph by Brian Fitzsimmons.
ART DE TERROIR
Tom Sachs: Boombox Retrospective 1999-2015 January 24 – April 19, 2015 On view at the Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria and the Jones Center Also on view at the Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria: JJ PEET: BRAIN TO HAND TO OBJECT_ and John Grade: Canopy Tower
Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312
Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park / Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 • 512 458 8191
thecontemporaryaustin.org
Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380
Real food. Real health. Real medicine.
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