Edible Austin Sept/Oct 2019

No Small Potatoes / Cooks at Home / Smart Storage / Hat & Heart Farm No. 66 September/October 2019

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

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DONATE

1 in 4 children in Travis County is food insecure.

REDUCE Create daily specials with food nearing expiration.

COMPOST

37% of Austin landfill waste could have been composted.

Take Home a Chef!

October 3

at The Allan House

Charity event benefiting Sustainable Food Center & Urban Roots

Uchiko

Vixen’s Wedding

Backspace

Barley Swine

Holy Roller

Barlata

Black’s BBQ

Il Brutto

Intero

Carpenters Hall

Thanks to Our Sponsors

Germer Insurance Services

Tickets at EdibleAustin.com/chefauction

CONTENTS R EGUL A R S

08 What’s on Our Counter 10 N otable Edibles

28

32

HAT & HEART FARM

NO SMALL POTATOES

A new generation of the family farm.

A fresh look at the superior spud.

39

48

GARDENING THE GREEN WAY

THE TEMPTATION OF TEMPRANILLO

Tips for converting to drought-tolerant landscaping.

Jazz up your taco Tuesdays with this accompaniment.

The ABGB's Hell Yes Project.

Texas Legislative Food & Beverage Bills.

14 W hat’s in Season 16 C ooks at Home

Cooking with Adriene Mishler.

21 C ooks at Home Cooking with CK Chin.

24 C ooks at Home Cooking with Joshua Weissman.

43 S mart Storage Tips for Organizing Your Pantry.

50 E dible Ink The Savvy Home Gardener's Favorite Tools.

On the Cover

No Small Potatoes / Cooks at Home / Smart Storage / Hat & Heart Farm No. 66 September/October 2019

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

Muffin tin au gratin potato stacks. Photography by Dani Colombatto.

EdibleAustin.com / 5

PUBLISHER’S note

Heat Wave

A

s we prep this issue for press in the throws of August, my weather app says it feels like 105° outside. After walking a block to

run an errand, it seems like even that number is an

PUBLISHER

underestimation. It’s amazing that anyone can get

Jenna Northcutt

work done in this weather, especially those who spend the majority of their days laboring outdoors.

EDITOR

I feel so lucky that in Central Texas we have so

Darby Kendall

many local farmers and ranchers who work out in this heat to bring us amazing fresh food. In this issue we wrote about a couple in the Hill Country, Bradley and Katherine, who have

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

decided to be the next generation to run the family farm, known for the last 49 years

Sarah Welch

as Oma and Opa’s Farm. The couple recently changed the farm’s name to Hat & Heart Farm, as Oma and Opa are enjoying their semi-retirement. Read more on the family by flipping to page 28.

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella

During this time of year we also like to hang out in the air conditioning while sneaking a peek into influential Austinites’ kitchens to see what they cook at home. This issue we tagged along with CK Chin to a friend's house for an epic cookout. I'll be

Dena Garcia Stacey Ingram Kaleh

sending CK an invite shortly to come by my house and recreate such a meal, but I'll have to work on my cheese-and-charcuterie boards to come near rivaling his friend Denise's amazing spreads (page 21).

DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

If you're like me and running a bit behind on that spring cleaning, or you’re just getting a head start for next year, we've got a great guide to organizing your pantry.

We've also included tips on how long to keep pantry items, so you will no longer question the freshness of any spice (page 43).

If the lingering heat has your yard looking a little sad, peruse our tips for drought-tolerant landscaping. Fall is the perfect time to change things up to make your yard water efficient, so it can be beautiful and benefit the environment (page 39).

CONTACT US 1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com

Cheers to beating the heat this year!

Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.

6 / EdibleAustin.com

Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2019. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Edible Austin is a member of Edible Communities.

EdibleAustin.com / 7

W H AT ’ S

ON OUR

COUNTER

by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

8 / EdibleAustin.com

Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

CONFITURAS Specialty goods made with locally grown produce are a hit in our office, which makes the jams and preserves from Confituras a hot commodity at Edible Austin. Pair the canned goods with their towering buttermilk biscuits, and you have a match made in heaven.

What started as a hobby for owner Stephanie McClenny has now become one of Austin’s most beloved small businesses, with a storefront located just off South Lamar. Using seasonal ingredients grown by Central Texas farmers, McClenny creates irresistible jams with flavors like ginger peach, wild plum, cranberry cinnamon and green tomato. Find them at Confituras’ brick-and-mortar location and at specialty stores around Austin.

512-710-9370 2129 Goodrich Ave. confituras.net

AUSTIN KEFIR MICROBREWERY Autumn in Texas can still bring the heat, and we love a good beverage to help cool things down. The local liquid artisans at Austin Kefir Microbrewery craft probiotic tonics and ales that are alcohol free, naturally effervescent and perfect for tasty rehydration. Their classic water kefirs come in several rotating flavors including raspberry, lime, peach and apple ginger. They also offer CBD-infused water kefir and a non-alcoholic “Champagne” in three varieties: rosé, kir royal and dry. Owner Marci Mawhorter Meyers is passionate about spreading the gospel of these fermented beverages, so she also sells live water kefir grains for home brewing. Find these products at the Texas Farmers' Market at Lakeline and Mueller. austinkefirmicrobrewery.com

EASY TIGER The dough punchers over at Easy Tiger Bake Shop and Beer Garden are definitely experts in their field. The bakery portion of this local establishment serves more than 50 businesses, including some of Austin’s top restaurants and grocery stores, as well as three Easy Tiger locations throughout the city. From the breads to the pretzels to the pastries, Easy Tiger sells superb doughy goodness. They offer more than 15 styles of bread made with a variety of freshly milled flours, some of which come from artisan millers in Texas.

Find their baked goods at Whole Foods, Fresh Plus Grocery, Antonelli’s Cheese Shop and Easy Tiger’s storefronts.

512-614-4972; 709 E. 6th St. 512-494-4151; 6406 N. I-35 512-986-7872; 5001 183A easytigerusa.com

SOUTH MOUTH SAUCE CO. When we want to spice up a dish, the flavorful sauces from South Mouth are some of our favorite picks. Created by four friends in the kitchen of local restaurant The Hightower, South Mouth Sauce Co. offers two varieties: fried green tomato and Americana. The fried green tomato sauce makes a fantastic rub for grilled meats like chicken and beef.

It has an exceptionally tangy flavor thanks to the inclusion of tart green tomatoes, vinegar, lime juice and mustard. Americana is more of a classic hot sauce, which pairs perfectly with fall produce like roasted sweet potatoes and winter squash. Find the sauces at The Hightower, Hillside Farmacy and online at Farmhouse Delivery. southmouthsauce.com EdibleAustin.com / 9

notable EDIBLES

Beer Makes It Better

by DARBY KENDALL / photography courtesy of THE ABGB

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: THE HELL YES PROJECT AT CENTRAL TEXAS FOOD BANK AND BARTON SPRINGS POOL

G

iving back to the community is always more fun with

“We also give 5 percent of yearly proceeds to these nonprofit part-

good company — even better if you have some pizza

ners in the community, so we're contributing in a lot of different

and beer to go along. The Austin Beer Garden Brewing

ways,” says Millie Clark, events and production manager for The

Company (fondly referred to as The ABGB) brings all of those

ABGB. “It definitely resonates with me to work in a place that

excellent elements together with The Hell Yes Project, their

really does give so much back, for such a small business to be

philanthropic effort to give back to local nonprofits in a variety

making such a large impact on the community.”

of ways.

It’s nearly impossible to list the numerous events and nonprofits

Even before The ABGB opened its doors in 2013, the beer gar-

that The Hell Yes Project supports in one go, due to the sheer

den’s founders knew they would create a business that not only

number. Some of their more regular volunteer opportunities

served local patrons, but local causes. “The idea of being able to

include builds with Habitat for Humanity, Barton Springs pool

help other people was super important to us when we started this

cleanings and “Volunbeer” Nights at Central Texas Food Bank.

company,” says co-owner Mark Jensen. “It started out as a passion project, and it continues to be one.”

If you’re curious about their philanthropy, Jensen says the best way to experience it is to get involved. “There are some people out there

Their efforts show that they are passionate about giving back.

who truly wear invisible halos, who are great examples of people who

There are a multitude of Hell Yes Project activities on The ABGB’s

joined our Hell Yes Project events and now go to all of them,” he says.

calendar each month, centered mostly around onsite volunteering at nonprofits or events at the brewery that benefit a charitable cause. Some of the biggest in-house events from the past year include The Mardi Gras Dog Parade (benefiting Pug Rescue Austin), A Night of Straight Country (benefiting The SIMS Foundation),

In addition to the warmhearted feeling one gets after giving back to the community, Clark puts the perks of helping out with The Hell Yes Project simply: “You can have fun, you can drink beer and you can do good. Those things all go hand in hand.”

Sweet Barks (benefiting Austin Pets Alive!) and Freddie for a Day (benefiting AIDS Services of Austin).

10 / EdibleAustin.com

Visit theabgb.com for more information.

notable EDIBLES

Fruit-Bearing Bills

by DARBY KENDALL / photography courtesy of THE TEXAS CRAFT BREWERS GUILD could charge upward of $175 per vendor per market, sometimes on a weekly or quarterly basis. Now the fee is capped at $100 annually for all markets within a jurisdiction, which could save farmers over $2,000 yearly, according to the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance.

Sampling at farmers markets is an essential way for farmers and producers to get their products out to potential customers, but the process for sampling in several jurisdictions can be burdensome due to excessive permitting and regulations. HB 1964 makes it easier by stripping sampling requirements down to the state’s basic standards, allowing

T

local food producers to give out samples much more easily. his year’s Texas legislative session brought plenty of good

One major win for home-based food businesses is the expansion

news for local food producers. Several notable food and

of cottage foods in SB 572. Previously, homemade food producers

beverage bills were signed into law this June, providing pro-

could only sell a specific list of foods at specific locations like

tections and beneficial expansions for farmers and culinary artisans.

farmers markets, and the only acidified canned food they could le-

Texas craft breweries are now on equal footing with those across the rest of the nation, thanks to the success of the Beer-to-Go Bill.

Included as legislation within the Texas Alcohol and Beverage Commission Sunset Bill, this bill allows craft brewers to sell beer to go directly to customers from their breweries and taprooms, starting September 1. Years of work went into the passing of this bill,

gally sell was pickled cucumbers. Now producers can sell through a variety of channels, including online, offer products made with any non-potentially hazardous food and sell all types of pickled foods. This will allow for the expansion and growth of cottage food businesses and make life easier for farmers, as they are now able to can, pickle and sell any of their excess produce.

which resulted from the efforts of organizations like the Texas Craft

There is still plenty of work to be done when it comes to supporting

Brewers Guild, formed by employees and owners of craft breweries

local food producers, but this year’s legislative session took several

around the state, and their political action committee, CraftPAC.

steps in the right direction. Thanks to all of you who reached out to

Other passed legislation allows farmers to take financial steps forward.

Permit fees charged by local health departments for farmers market vendors are now significantly lower, thanks to SB 932. Previously, counties

dine in the wine garden • happy hour specials

1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com 12 / EdibleAustin.com

your representatives to voice your support for these bills; it’s truly one of the best ways to back our local food scene!

For more information on food-related bills, visit farmandranchfreedom.org

WE’RE RIGHT AROUND THE CORNER, AND WE HAVE WHAT YOU NEED.

GROCERY • ESPRESSO • WINE & BEER TO STAY OR GO • LUNCH SPECIALS • GRAB & GO 3RD & LAVACA • 4TH & NUECES 6TH & CONGRESS

3RD & BRAZOS • RAINEY STREET • 6TH & COMAL ROYALBLUEGROCERY.COM

This October, find your FUN October 4, 5 Downtown on MarktPlatz

&

6

Join us to celebrate our German heritage during Oktoberfest!

Oompah at its best, in the Polka Capital of Texas!

German music, food and drink, artisans, children’s area and Lots of Family FUN!

For tickets and more info:

OktoberfestInFBG.com

October 26 Downtown on MarktPlatz A full-course celebration of Texas wine, food, craft beer, music, specialty booths, food court and FUN for all!

Plus these fabulous events: Thursday: Go Texan! Dinner at Messina Hof Friday: Celebration of Texas Food & Wine at Becker Vineyards Saturday: Patron Party on MarktPlatz

For tickets and more info:

FbgFoodAndWineFest.com

... in Fredericksburg!

Authentic German Beer Host your next event at Altstadt!

FREDERICKSBURG, TX // ALTSTADTBEER.COM EdibleAustin.com / 13

W H AT ’ S

IN

SEASON photography by DANI COLOMBATTO

Looking for some seasonal recipes?

Flip to page 33 to find delicious, comforting potato recipes for your fall table.

Arugula Carrots Cucumbers Eggplant Figs Green Beans Greens, Chard Greens, Collard Greens, Kale Greens, Lettuce Greens, Mustard Long Beans Melons Onions Pears Pecans Peppers, Hot Peppers, Sweet Persimmons Pumpkins Radishes Red Potatoes Summer Squash Sweet Potatoes Tomatillos Tomatoes Winter Squash

14 / EdibleAustin.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SPOTLIGHT

Spotlight on getaways

Hoffman Haus A Hill Country retreat.

I

f you’re looking for a professional change of scenery, visit the Hoffman Haus in beautiful Fredericksburg, Texas, for your next corporate meeting. The historic venue provides a unique, comfortable atmosphere for a multitude of company gatherings accommodating up to 80 people. This alternative setting provides lovely, open spaces to host meetings in, with a variety of rooms to house groups of all sizes. Once mealtime rolls around, cater your company with delicious food from their sister restaurants, Tubby’s Ice House and Otto’s German Bistro. For extra team bonding, Hoffman Haus also offers cooking classes led by distinguished guests from the culinary and wine world.

If you prefer to extend your time in Fredericksburg and have a multi-day company retreat, Hoffman Haus offers lodging through their beautiful bed and breakfast, located on the same site. Nestled in a quiet neighborhood just a block from the hustle and bustle of downtown Fredericksburg, Hoffman Haus is only a stone’s throw away from restaurants and shops for post-meeting fun. We at Edible Austin recently held our annual retreat on their site, and we can confirm that it makes for a fantastic time. Whether you want to spend a productive day in the Hill Country or book a relaxing weekend getaway, Hoffman Haus provides the perfect spot for all.

Visit hoffmanhaus.com to book your visit today.

EdibleAustin.com / 15

COOKS at home

COOKS at home

Cooking with Adriene

by K. ANGEL HORNE / photography by DUSTIN MEYER

A

driene Mishler has been in my living room at least a

a groovy, chill tango by Chicha Libre, she explains, “I’m listening

hundred times — guiding me through stretches and

to all my Spanish-language tunes — I just got back from Mexico

reminding me to breathe — but we’ve never met. Still,

City.” She shares that, “In spite of being a native Texan and half

when I walk into her house and Mishler greets me with a smile

Mexican … I realized I definitely knew more sign language and

and a warm hug while her pup, Benji, offers an approving sniff and

Sanskrit than Spanish.” Last year, she took on the challenge of

a nuzzle, there’s a genuine feeling of friendship and familiarity. I

learning the language as an adult with the goal of teaching bi-

drop down to scratch behind the blue heeler's black-and-silver

lingual classes and creating free, Spanish-language yoga videos

ears and admit, “When I told my husband I was coming here, his

to stretch the "yoga for all” mission even further. After pausing

first question was ‘Do you get to meet Benji?’” Mishler laughs.

to blend the dipping sauce, she says, “I thought about making a

“He’s the real star, for sure,” she says with characteristic humility.

Mexican dish; my grandmother was a cook.” She shows me a love-

Mishler is that Adriene, of “Yoga with Adriene” (YWA), a YouTube channel and online community boasting millions of followers globally, created with the mission of providing free, accessible yoga for all. She has created hundreds of videos, largely shot in her own East Austin home, with themes like “Yoga for Neck and Shoulder Relief,” “Yoga for Anxiety and Stress” and “Yoga to Start Your Day.” The entire library is free, but there’s a subscription model too, called “Find What Feels Good,” that helps fuel the free videos and offers members bonus content.

Mishler's adorable kitchen is equally familiar to me, since I’ve watched her video, “How to Make Yogi Tea,” filmed here. I’ve also admired the naturally lit breakfast nook, honeycomb-tiled counters and seafoam-green backsplash via her Instagram. Today, the counter is piled with a rainbow of chopped vegetables and a package of rice paper rounds for making fresh summer rolls. “It’s a small kitchen, and every Texan knows that at a certain time [of year] you just stop using the oven,” says Mishler.

In addition to being a force for accessible yoga on the internet, Mishler works as an actress and tours internationally with her yoga teaching (she led asana to a sold-out crowd at Red Rocks Amphitheater in Colorado this summer). "I decided on the summer roll because I’ve been traveling, and doing all this prep is all I’ve wanted to do.” When a colleague recently asked her whether it feels good to sleep in her own bed after traveling, she says she replied, “It feels good to cook in my own kitchen!”

“I like to put on music and do slow, mindful prep,” Mishler says. Over

ly card with one of her Grandma Emma's recipes printed over a rose that Mishler’s mom hand painted. We joke that Mishler just needs to spill a little of her sauce on the recipe card to complete the familial culinary collaboration.

As she tells me about her days as a Snapchat cooking star, Mishler artfully and methodically prepares the summer rolls. All the while, she maintains an easy laugh and makes lots of eye contact while her hands dance over the ingredients. Gesturing to the spectrum of vegetables and herbs, Mishler excitedly reports, “I recently subscribed to the Johnson’s Backyard Garden [CSA] box, and it is amazing … It’s pretty affordable, and you know you’re supporting the people who are waking up every day and doing back-breaking work to put food on our counters.” (As an offering of even more support to those who work the earth, one can find “Yoga for Gardeners” in the YWA video collection.) Mishler also mentions she’s working toward a zero-waste kitchen and her food choices are guided by both finding what feels good for her body and consciously caring for the environment.

As I gather my bag, she invites me to come to her next public practice (along with a few hundred other Austinites) and proposes we do this again, but make something for Benji next time.

Until then, we can all stay well with Mishler via her vegetarian recipes, tips for living our best plastic-free lives and YWA video flows. And while you’re taking care of yourself, Mishler advises sharing that love: "When you’re cooking for someone, there’s the nutrients in the food, but there’s also the love that you put into it … it’s a gift. I’m hoping we can continue to find that.”

EdibleAustin.com / 17

COOKS at home

Fresh Summer Rolls with Soy-Free Peanut Sauce MAKES 6 ROLLS

For the rolls: 3

collard greens, washed and trimmed

1

green bell pepper, julienned

1

red bell pepper, julienned

1

yellow bell pepper, julienned

1

cucumber, julienned

your liking, along with a pinch of sprouts. Sprinkle a small handful

½

red cabbage, thinly sliced

of green onion and a pinch of each herb over the vegetables. Gently

1

carrot, julienned

but tightly roll the rice paper, folding in the sides as you do.

1

large avocado, thinly sliced

6

rice paper wraps

1 c.

sprouts

6 t. green onion, thinly sliced 3 t. fresh basil

rest of the veggies. Lay a slice or two of each vegetable down, to

For the sauce: ¹⁄³ c. organic peanut butter ¼ c. coconut amino acids ¼ c. apple cider vinegar ¼ c. sesame oil

3 t. fresh cilantro

1 T. coconut nectar (substitute maple syrup or agave for a

3 t. fresh mint

less tart sauce)

Tear the collard greens until the pieces are slightly smaller than the

1 t.

ginger, freshly grated or powdered

rice paper wraps. Wet a piece of rice paper with warm water in a shallow plate. When you’re ready to assemble, move rice paper to a

Blend together all of the ingredients in a food processor, and

dry plate and place a piece of collard green over it as a base for the

serve alongside the rolls for dipping.

We'' make your home minty fresh

512-659-9633 | EcoMamaCleaning.com

18 / EdibleAustin.com

TAKE THE FAMILIAR ON AN ADVENTURE. www.tilliesdrippingsprings. com

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Meat the way meat should be

COOKS at home

Cooking with CK

by NATHAN MATTISE / photography by DUSTIN MEYER

L

ongtime Austin restaurateur CK Chin has a bit of a reputation as the consummate host. You might catch a glimpse on Instagram of Chin taking care of the Wu Tang Clan

or Captain America himself (actor Chris Evans) at either of his restaurants — Swift’s Attic and Wu Chow. And his prowess for creating a good time for all is partially why news of his involvement in the upcoming revamp of the HOPE Outdoor Gallery was met with such excitement. If an art gallery is also going to have music and food, who better to call?

It turns out Chin’s friends know this, too. “With a lot of people in my life, there’s no obvious reason why we’re connected — the reason is we shared a meal,” he says. “And the ongoing joke among my friends has always been, ‘Let’s invite CK over and have him cook for us.’”

EdibleAustin.com / 21

COOKS at home

While this happens at houses across the city, Chin’s own downtown apartment is a little too cozy for the crowds his gatherings attract.

However, the meals Chin collaborates on with friends and business partners Paul and Denise Smith in their Austin home have recently become “kinda legendary.” Working together under the name Goldsmith Entertainment, this trio has turned hosting into a harmony. Chin and Denise handle the cooking and menu planning (increasingly more of a “yes, and” exercise), while Paul happily serves as the glue guy, handling grill starting, dish finishing and occasional tequila pouring.

Chin wasn’t always so welcome as a guest star in kitchens. He grew up in Houston, raised by his mother and grandmother. He named Wu Chow after his grandmother and says her classic Chinese cooking influenced the restaurant’s flavor profile. But he did not learn to cook from her — Grandma never really let him in the kitchen. The future restaurateur didn’t start cooking for himself until he left for Texas A&M, where he quickly became the kind of Aggie who wouldn’t stick to the classic ramen packet. “I was the guy who was putting bok choy in there or poaching an egg, trying a different spin every time,” he says. “The first step is to enjoy eating, right? If you like to eat, you want to know how it’s made.”

Improvisation is something Chin has embraced ever since. Swift’s Attic’s famous laid-back atmosphere and hip-hop soundtrack, for instance? Chin just happened to open the place on the night The Beastie Boys’ MCA died in 2012, and he thought it felt appropriate to blast “Brass Monkey” after an impromptu, late-service moment of silence. “Eating quail while listening to Biggie Smalls? No one’s ever done that, so we started doing that every night,” he says.

“So much fun.” Now that’s as much a part of the place’s fabric as Swift’s over-the-top burgers.

When it comes to cooking, Chin uses the same approach. He thinks his openness to a good whim came partially from his uncle, the only chef in his family. The Swift’s team once wanted to add a scallion pancake to the menu, so Chin volunteered to call up his uncle and get the family recipe. And, well, it was all casual to say the least. Enough flour so things aren’t wet; add fat till things are shiny. “I gave that to my chef: bowl of flour, just enough water, fat till it’s shiny,” Chin recalls. “Good luck.”

“He’ll be so late when we have people coming over, but he always pulls it off right on time, which is infuriating to me because I’m up prepping the night before.”

Chin may work in globs and Denise in grams, but together they groove like the jazz bands working a few floors below Swift’s at the Elephant Room. It’s easy to see why the duo’s Sunday Suppers have become a bit of a thing. Guests recall previous gatherings centered around classic Italian fare or roast chicken done several ways, and this day’s taco-inspired spread for 12 has something for everyone. That is, if folks aren’t already stuffed from Denise’s gallery-worthy cheese-and-charcuterie spread.

Tender beef comes off the grill, cooked at all levels of preparation.

The nice thing about grilling flank and skirt steak, Chin notes, is that you get the whole array from rare to well done. Chin’s “Asian guacamole” is bright and produce forward, with chunks of avocado and cilantro and ample lime. What makes it Asian guacamole, you ask? “An Asian person made it,” he jokes — though in this case it also means adding more lime and cilantro. And the cilantro rice prompts one guest to admit she’d even take cooking classes from these two. It has the indulgent silkiness of fried rice while echoing the bright flavors of the guacamole. I can’t believe

Talk to Denise about cooking with Chin during their now-routine

I’m saying this, but Chin’s cilantro rice puts Chipotle’s universally

monthly gatherings, and she might say the same thing. She asks

beloved version to shame.

if the cilantro rice — it’s tradition to always do one entirely new dish, and tonight this is it — needs lime juice or zest. “Why not both?” Chin responds.

“He’s so good at winging it but somehow nailing it,” Denise says.

22 / EdibleAustin.com

As another guest contemplates seconds, he sums up the experience for anyone — from celebrity to restaurant guest, or friend of a friend — lucky enough to break bread with Chin: “When people hear it’s going down, they clear their schedules.”

COOKS at home

Wok-a-Molé

(J U S T K I D D I N G , G UA C ) SERVES 3–4

2–3 cloves of garlic, peeled and smashed

Heavy pinch of salt

1

bunch of cilantro

3

ripe avocados, cut into large chunks

2–3 limes, halved

Place avocado chunks in the bowl. Immediately squeeze 2 of the

1

lime halves into the bowl and toss to coat, largely to reduce brown-

small red onion, diced

2–3 Roma tomatoes, depulped, deseeded and diced

ing. Then stir cilantro, onions, tomatoes and jalapeños into the av-

1–2 jalapeños, deseeded and diced

ocado gently, trying not to break down the avocado too much.

Several grinds of black pepper

Once all items are stirred in, adjust with remaining lime, salt and pep-

Place garlic and salt into a bowl that’s a little larger than you think

per to taste. Superstitiously place the avocado pits into the completed

you need. Using a fork, smash and grind the salt and garlic against

guac to help with decolorization — and also because it’s pretty.

the bowl until almost smooth. It can be left a bit coarser if you want a stronger garlic flavor.

Cut the cilantro stems in half, discarding the bottom half of the stalks. (I like to include the remaining stems because I feel they add a nice variation in texture.) Mince the leaves and their attached

Cilantro Lime Rice & Spice Rub Recipes Find these recipes for the perfect cookout at EdibleAustin.com

stems to a fairly even size. Set aside.

EdibleAustin.com / 23

COOKS at home

COOKS at home

Cooking with Joshua

by NATHAN MATTISE / photography by NATHAN BEELS

"W

ell, everyone loves bread,” Joshua Weissman

a plaque that states a universally known truth in the restaurant

says plainly. And while that’s probably true, few

world: “Be precise. Our margin of error is small.”

people love it as much as the 23-year-old for-

mer Uchiko cook and YouTube culinary star. (If his hundreds of thousands of subscribers don’t justify the moniker, by the way, see who has the platform’s most watched tutorial on sourdough starters. Here’s a hint: it’s not Allrecipes or establishments like San Francisco’s famed Tartine Bakery.) Bread quite literally helped Weissman launch the current stage of his life, one focused on becoming the best chef he can be.

As a teen in Houston, Weissman struggled with obesity. He dabbled in professional gaming through “World of Warcraft,” eating what he pleased along the way before ultimately shifting his lifestyle dramatically and losing over 100 pounds. Then, from roughly ages 17 through 19, he became obsessed with a new, health-focused way of living: a paleo-oriented, gluten-free approach to cooking and eating that eventually spawned a successful blog and book (both called “The Slim Palate”). But at 19, Weissman wanted another change, and this time he hoped to settle on a better balance.

He moved out of his parents’ place, relocated to Austin and started putting his interest in fermentation to use by baking loaf after loaf.

“I knew how to bake bread before Odd Duck, but actually, that’s part of how I got the job at Uchiko,” Weissman recalls. “I was so desperate. If I didn’t get a job there, I didn’t want to work anywhere else. So I brought four loaves on my first day staging.” (Pronounced staahj, staging is a type of industry internship or kitchen audition.)

“They weren’t just stoked to eat bread; they were surprised at the quality. ‘Where did you learn this?’ I think it showed I was more dedicated than other people.”

Weissman completed his last day at Uchiko this summer, but he’s not done with kitchen life. Given his YouTube revenue these days, his next adventure involves continuing to produce cooking videos full time from his South Austin apartment, before hopefully staging at some of his favorite restaurants in Austin, San Francisco or Paris.

He partially chose his current apartment for this very purpose; large windows wash his sleek, modern kitchen in loads of natural light.

Weissman says his friends joke that the studio has no living room; it’s all kitchen (which feels kind of true, albeit kind of cool, too). But that makes sense for Weissman, as it’s here that he spends most of his time, baking his favorite sourdough loaf, among other things.

“Bread was my way out of that community, the paleo, gluten-free life. It’s literally the epitome of something you’re not supposed to

Weissman grew up cooking alongside his mom, who was quite

eat [on those diets]. I was almost afraid of it — like, ‘I don’t want

an established home pastry baker, and he fondly recalls receiving

to get fat again. What if it makes me fat again?’” he says. “Now it’s

gift boxes of breads from his grandmother for the holidays. Those

super therapeutic. It’s hard to describe, but there’s a very emotional

memories, along with all that time spent at Odd Duck, then Uchiko,

connection for bread makers. It’s one of the few things in food that’s

have only taken Weissman’s fondness for detail to an even more

always evolving. Your next loaf is always better than your last loaf,

granular level. He can talk at length about a loaf ’s crumb struc-

and your next loaf is always worse than your last loaf. Bread is just

ture, how hydration impacts that airy and decadent center or why

different because there are so many variables that impact it.”

he offers most new bakers a simplified version of this recipe (in short, it’s because the full version involves precise oven steaming

Bread has played a central role in the young cook’s life and career ever

and obsessing over humidity levels). A follower of his once joked

since. Fresh in Austin, he earned his first restaurant job with the group

that Weissman would go so far as to develop his own wheat farm;

he says has the city’s best bread: Odd Duck. And while Weissman’s

it prompted him to start home milling, at least.

skills helped him get his foot in the door, he desperately needed that restaurant experience — learning the lexicon, the lifestyle, the

The resulting bread looks, smells and somehow even sounds good as

little details about how the business operates — before stepping into

Weissman pierces the crust with a bread knife. Given all the know-

Uchiko’s back of house. After all, the sign on the kitchen door in the

how baked into this loaf, it doesn’t require any fancy final treatment.

famed Austin institution doesn’t read “Kitchen.” Instead, it features

Weissman simply drops some butter in a cast-iron skillet and toasts a EdibleAustin.com / 25

COOKS at home

few slices by moving them around using only his fingers. (Followers joke Weissman has developed such cooking calluses that these hands will survive contact with just about any surface or bacteria around.)

He finishes with a dash of flaky Maldon sea salt. Any Southern mom would be proud, including Weissman’s own. “You know, she would probably complain there’s not enough butter in this pan right now,” he admits. “But there’s more than enough.”

It’s probably not hard to imagine, but the bread tastes even better than it looks.

water, and spread the levain across the surface of the dough. Then dimple, pinch and stir the mixture to incorporate everything.

Cover the bowl back up, and place it back in the oven or fermentation station. Let the dough sit for 3 to 4 hours until it doubles in

No-Knead Beginner Sourdough Bread

size. During this period, you’ll fold the dough — wetting your hand,

MAKES 2 LOAVES

minutes apart; the last fold comes 30 minutes after that. After fold-

stretching a bit of the perimeter as far as it can go without breaking and literally folding it over — 3 times. The first 2 folds should be 15 ing, let the bread sit for the remainder of the fermentation period.

This recipes takes 2 days to complete, please plan accordingly.

Full video available at edibleaustin.com For the levain: 45 g. mature starter 45 g. unbleached all-purpose flour 45 g. stone-ground whole wheat flour 90 g. filtered water, room temperature For the dough: 273 g. unbleached bread flour 500 g. unbleached all-purpose flour

The dough should have some signs of bubbly activity by the end.

Scoop the dough out onto an unfloured surface. Make a floured line down the center of the dough, and divide the dough down that line to separate the 2 halves. Using a floured bread scraper, turn each half of the dough into a sphere, then cover with an overturned bowl for 15 minutes. Then, let the dough sit for an additional 10 minutes.

Dust 2 kitchen towels with rice flour, place them each in a large bowl and set aside. Turning back to the dough, use all-purpose flour to dust the top of each sphere, then loosen the edges with

175 g. stone-ground whole wheat flour

the scraper and carefully flip the dough so the unfloured side is on

660 g. filtered water, 90–95°

top. Grab the bottom of the dough, and stretch and fold halfway

18 g. fine sea salt

over. Repeat this process for the left, right and top sides. Gently

180 g. mature levain (use all of the levain splinter that you made)

flip the dough over so the folded seams face down, then use your

fingers to pull the dough in toward yourself to form a tight circle.

Rice flour, for dusting

For the levain: Combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl,

Place the dough for both loaves, seam side up, into the large

and thoroughly stir until no dry clumps of flour remain. Transfer

bowls, put them, bowl and all, into a large plastic bag (or multiple,

to a jar and close, but do not tighten to the point that it’s airtight.

tied up, if needed) and set them in the fridge to sit for 14–15 hours

Ferment the levain for 6 hours at 78°. If you don’t have a fermentation

or overnight. This process is called “proofing” the dough.

station, leaving the levain jar in the oven with only the light on

The next morning, it’s bake day. Place a Dutch oven into the oven on

should approximate this environment.

a low rack. Preheat to 500°, and let the empty Dutch oven warm in the

For the bread: 30 minutes before the levain fermentation is done, it’s

preheated oven for a total of 1 hour. Once you’re ready to bake, take the

time to start the autolyse process — mixing flour and water together to let it mingle. Combine the 3 flour types for the dough in a big mixing bowl, and mix by hand. Add the filtered, heated water, and mix by hand again until all the flour is hydrated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp towel for the next 30 minutes as the levain finishes fermenting.

dough for the first loaf out of the fridge. (You’ll bake the second loaf after the first finishes, unless you have two Dutch ovens.) Dust the surface of your loaf and score your loaf if desired. Using oven mitts, place the dough in the Dutch oven and place the whole thing back in the oven.

Bake with the lid on for 20 minutes at 500°, then take the lid off

After the autolyse is done, sprinkle the salt across the dough and

and bake at 475° for an additional 25–30 minutes (or until the loaf

then add all the levain on top of the dough. Wet your hands with

is a deep, rich brown).

26 / EdibleAustin.com

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FARMERS diary

FARMERS diary

Hat & Heart Farm

by MELISSA CLAIRE / photography by ANDY SAMS

D

own a winding country road surrounded by idyllic farm-

of his work force for this interview, he replies, “Whatever burns

land, grazing cattle and the sounds of goat bleats and

your shorts!” before plopping himself into the field to pick okra.

cricket chirps, lies Hat & Heart Farm. This 93-acre plot of

hard-worked land nestled between Johnson City and Fredericksburg is home to hens, goats, turkeys, a border collie named Stetson and a bounty of organic vegetables.

Bradley Ottmers and Katherine Tanner recently took over this fruitful piece of land from Ottmers’ parents, J.W. and Marion, better known as Oma and Opa. As a sixth-generation farmer, it seems that farming is in Ottmers’ DNA. Before returning full time to the farm about three years ago, Ottmers was a welder and a fence constructor, providing him with skills that come in handy at Hat & Heart. “If something breaks down, he’s the one under the hood fixing it,” says his partner, Tanner.

For Tanner, who has a master’s degree in Geopolitics and Security and worked in Austria, Germany, Turkey and England before returning home to Fredericksburg, this agricultural lifestyle was less than expected. “It wasn't part of the plan, but I like a challenge,” she says.

She and Ottmers met at a farmers market, where she argued with him over the price of his eggs. He resolved the conflict by uncharacteristically offering her the dozen eggs for free, and the rest was history.

Later I meet Oma, who has come to tend to her chickens. The farm is home to more than 500 laying hens, and every egg that leaves the farm has passed though her hands at one point or another.

This family farm does have a few part-time helpers, but Ottmers and Tanner are the full-time staff accepting the challenges and rewards of making it all happen, along with Oma and Opa’s help, of course. Throughout its history, the farm has passed through several evolutions prior to Ottmers and Tanner taking the reins.

In 1997 sustainable practices were adopted, and in 2001 Oma and Opa began to sell at farmers markets.

Currently, everything produced on the farm exists in a cohesive loop of reciprocity. The chickens and goats are raised on pasture and play a vital role in the ecosystem of the farm. The hens take care of pest control, eating the grasshoppers and mosquitoes and fertilizing the land as they go along. And, in return, they get to enjoy any leftover vegetables that can’t be sold or pickled. “They fight over the tomatoes,” says Ottmers. Even their movable chicken coops are made with reused and recycled materials.

Their tribe of over 100 goats help clear and fertilize the land, and when the time comes to prepare goat meat, the Hat & Heart team lets nothing go to waste. Every edible piece of meat is brought to

“We come from such different backgrounds, completely different

market, including livers and hearts; the hides are tanned and the

worlds,” says Tanner. “But we both have the same hometown, and

bones are made into broth. Not only is this goat meat highly nu-

we’re both very proud Texans. We love each other very much, and

tritious, but the use of the whole animal is yet another indication

we have enough grace to teach each other.”

of respect for both the animal and the earth.

Oma and Opa bought the farm property in the ’70s and put in

As they look to the future, Ottmers and Tanner light up over ideas

decades of hard work and dedication clearing the land and bring-

for making the farm even more sustainable, hoping to eventually

ing it to its current state. And though they are semi-retired, they

incorporate regenerative farming practices.

still play a vital role at the farm. “When you do it this long, it's not a job. It's just what you do,” says Tanner.

They also want to broaden their community impact. Tanner, who recently hosted a sustainability seminar at Fredericksburg High

Opa, the farm’s founder (and resident comedian) passes us on an

School, dreams of expanding opportunities to influence younger

ATV as we take our tour. When I offer an apology for stealing half

generations. Ottmers and Tanner hope to partner with higher EdibleAustin.com / 29

“GROW LOCALLY, COOK GLOBALLY”

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FARMERS diary

education institutions to allow students to come and learn at the farm for accredited practicum hours and internships. They want to invite local chefs and service industry workers to experience and understand the land that yields the organic jewels decorating their plates.

But in terms of extending their commercial reach, Ottmers and Tanner are content. “We are not a big commercial operation, and we would never want to be, because we are at one degree of separation from the people that eat our food. We’re selling it straight to the customer or the chef, and that’s gratification that we can see,” says Tanner. “Farming is an ancient practice. There is something special about carrying on that tradition.”

Hat & Heart’s harvest can be enjoyed at some of Austin’s favorite restaurants including Odd Duck, Olamaie, Dai Due and more. You can buy their harvest at SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown, Pearl Farmers Market and Texas Farmers' Market at Mueller.

EdibleAustin.com / 31

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cooking FRESH

No Small Potatoes

by DANI COLOMBATTO

first domesticated in South America around 5000 B.C., by Peruvians who not only grew, but also worshipped them.

All this is to say that potatoes have made the rounds. We enjoy them during celebrations, on rushed weeknights, and sometimes after a night of one too many cocktails. Potato salads make their

P

way to barbecues and picnics throughout summer, and mashed otatoes just might be the most universally loved and utilized member of the produce community. They’re customizable, filling and affordable (the median

potato price in the United States was 72 cents per pound

potatoes are a classic on any holiday dinner table. The baked potato might look humble, but once it’s loaded with toppings, it really does win in the simple side category. Wash it, throw it in the oven, dress it up a little, and you're good to go.

in 2018), and it seems there’s no end to the many shapes

Fresh potatoes are widely accessible, cost effective, delicious and

and textures a spud can take on. Consider, for example,

versatile enough to make their way into countless meals. Plus, they

the beloved French fry. You know a side dish is wide-

offer nutritional value; a medium baked potato contains four grams

ly accepted when it's sold for 99 cents at fast food

of protein and 28 percent of the recommended daily value of

restaurants as well as alongside filet mignon at a

Vitamin C. This is in addition to a litany of other health benefits,

vastly different price point. Therein lies the beauty

such as potassium and niacin, that potatoes have to offer. These

and power of the potato. What else can be both an

naturally gluten-free, tuberous beauties are considered a sustain-

utterly low-brow treat and a high-end, starchy

able crop, and they are very easy for home gardeners to grow.

work of art?

Varieties such as Kennebec and Yukon Gold thrive in Central

Countries all over the world boast popular,

Texas, even for novice growers.

potato-based dishes that have become far-

Because potatoes are such a staple, let's use them for all they're

flung favorites. Anyone who has experi-

worth with new, inventive dishes. The potato is ready to step out

enced the pure, pillowy joy of gnocchi

of that "usually roasted" box and step into a more elevated space.

or the glory of a perfectly crisp latke

Why not give your regular potato-cooking method a break and

is surely grateful to Italy and Eastern

give grilling or braising a try? Step up your roasting game by boil-

Europe. Switzerland’s rösti are a lac-

ing your spuds, lightly smashing them with a fork, then roasting

ier, larger, equally delicious cousin

them with herbs and olive oil to make them extra crispy. Serve

of latkes. India prominently fea-

alongside a garlic yogurt for bonus points. You can also change

tures potatoes in many staple

things up by manipulating the shape and size of your cuts and

dishes like aloo gobi, a mix of

experimenting with different cooking vessels to achieve varied

potatoes, cauliflower and spices.

textures. Potatoes are sturdy enough to hold up under most cook-

In Spain, you'll find the tortilla

ing techniques (except the food processor, maker of all glue-like

Española, which is a delicious,

mashed potatoes), meaning there is a world of options, and there-

frittata-like cake made of potato, egg

fore a world of textures and flavors, at hand. I will never turn

and onion, served on a plate to display its

down the simple perfection of a superbly cooked French fry, but

crispy edges in all their splendor. All of these dishes

the classics deserve to be spiced up, too, and I, for one, look for-

— and their common ingredient — aren’t new. Potatoes were

ward to seeing what exciting form the potato will take on next.

EdibleAustin.com / 33

cooking FRESH

Potato, Bacon, Tomato and Kale Pizza SERVES 4–6

The pizza dough in this recipe is light, pliable and forgiving,

Make the chimichurri. Using a blender or an immersion blender,

resulting in a deliciously crispy, airy crust when baked. Make it

combine parsley, cilantro, scallions, red wine vinegar, garlic, honey

in batches of two or more, and bless your future self with some

and red pepper flakes and blend together. Add olive oil and a sprin-

freezer dough.

kling of salt, and blend again to combine into a homogenous mix-

For the pizza dough: 2 c. bread flour ¹ 8 t. instant dry yeast 1/

ture. Taste for seasoning, cover and refrigerate until you’re ready to assemble your pizza.

Prep the pizza toppings. Place the potatoes in a pot, cover with

1 t.

kosher salt

water, add ½ a teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil. Boil until the

1 T.

extra virgin olive oil

potatoes are slightly tender but still firm. Drain in a colander to

1 c.

water, heated to 110°

allow excess water to evaporate. Once the potatoes have cooled

For the chimichurri: 1 c.

Italian parsley

¹⁄³ c. cilantro ¹⁄³ c. scallions, sliced ¹⁄³ c. red wine vinegar

1

large garlic clove, grated

1 T.

honey

½ t. red pepper flakes ²/³ c. extra virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

For the pizza:

slightly, slice them using a mandolin to roughly ¹/8”.

Cook the bacon in a pan over a medium-low heat until it’s cooked through but not completely crispy. The pizza will be baked at a high heat, so we want to make sure the bacon does not burn. Place atop a bed of paper towels to drain, and set aside.

Make the caramelized onions by adding the slices to a small frying pan over low heat, with ½ a teaspoon of salt. Stir regularly until caramelized, about 20 minutes. Set aside.

Season the kale with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and give it a light drizzle of olive oil. Massage into the leaves and set aside.

2

large Yukon Gold potatoes

1 t.

salt, separated

3

strips bacon, cut into 1-1½” pieces

1

yellow onion, thinly sliced

1 c.

kale leaves, ribs removed, torn into small pieces

Salt and pepper, to taste

ly sliced potatoes in rows, slightly overlapping each other until the

1 t.

olive oil

entire pizza is covered. Add the kale leaves, tucking slightly under

½ c. cherry tomatoes, quartered ²/³ c. feta cheese, crumbled Make the dough. In the bowl of a food processor or stand mixer fitted with a dough blade, pulse a few times to combine the bread flour, yeast and salt. Add olive oil, and with the machine running, slowly stream in the warm water until the dough forms a ball. Allow to rest for 2 minutes, then run the machine for another 30 seconds. Knead

Oil a large baking sheet and heat the oven to 450°. Add the dough to the baking sheet, stretching and flattening it to your desired shape and size. I usually go for a thickness of about ½”. Add some of the chimichurri, enough to spread evenly across the dough. Layer thin-

potato slices as you go. Sprinkle on bacon, tomatoes and feta.

Prior to putting the pizza in the oven, place the baking sheet atop 2 burners on the stovetop and turn them both to medium-high — this step ensures an extra-crispy bottom. You’ll see the pizza begin to bubble. Heat for about 2 minutes before transferring to the oven.

Bake in the oven for about 12 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the feta has begun to brown as well.

for up to a minute if desired, then add to a bowl with a drizzle of

Allow to cool for a few minutes before cutting. Add dollops of

olive oil, cover with plastic wrap and leave out at room temperature

caramelized onions on the pizza, and add a final drizzle of chi-

for about an hour, or until dough has doubled in size.

michurri to serve.

34 / EdibleAustin.com

cooking FRESH

Muffin Tin Au Gratin Potato Stacks MAKES 12

The crispy, cheesy magic of a hot and bubbling gratin is hard to beat. Ditch the clunky casserole dish and grab a muffin tin for a perfectly caramelized, “corner piece” effect with each individual gratin stack.

8

Yukon Gold potatoes

2 potato slices with each layer, 3 if the slices are smaller in

¾ c. heavy cream

diameter. After laying out the first layer of potatoes, liberally

2

brush each stack with the herbed cream and butter mixture, and

garlic cloves, finely minced

2 t. rosemary, minced (about 3 sprigs) 3 t. unsalted butter (plus more for greasing) 1 t.

salt

¼ t. paprika

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 c.

Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated

Butter a muffin tin and set aside. Heat the oven to 400°. With a mandolin, carefully slice the Yukon Gold potatoes to ¹/8” thick, or slightly thinner. In a small saucepan, add the cream, garlic and rosemary, and heat on medium-low. Once the mixture is warmed through, but not hot, add the butter, salt, paprika and a few grinds of fresh black pepper. Continue to heat over medium-low until the entire mixture is hot. There’s no need to bring it to a boil.

Begin to layer the potatoes in the muffin tin. I usually use

sprinkle with roughly ½ teaspoon of Parmigiano. Continue the process of adding a layer of potatoes, brushing on the cream, and sprinkling with the Parmigiano until there is only about ¼” of room between the top of each stack and the top of the muffin tin.

Finish each potato stack with a final brush of the cream mixture, a final sprinkling of Parmigiano and a few grinds of fresh black pepper.

Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the pan 180°, then immediately lower the temperature to 350°. Bake for 35 to 40 additional minutes, until stacks are golden brown and appear caramelized. Remove from the oven, and allow the gratin stacks to cool in the muffin tins for about 10 minutes before transferring the individual potato stacks to a rack over a bed of paper towels to cool (an offset spatula works great for this). Serve immediately.

EdibleAustin.com / 35

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cooking FRESH

Creamy Mashed Potatoes with Crispy Brussels Sprouts SERVES 6

For the potatoes: 6 medium Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-1 ½” pieces 2 small Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-1 ½” pieces

Pinch of salt

1 ½ c. whole milk 8 T. unsalted butter 2

cloves garlic, grated

¹⁄³ c. sour cream

Salt and pepper, to taste

For the Brussels sprouts: 1 T.

olive oil

2 ½ c. Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced 1 ½ t. fresh lemon zest, separated ¼ t. red pepper flakes 2 T. balsamic vinegar ½ c. pine nuts, toasted

Salt and pepper, to taste

Add potatoes to a large pot, cover with cold water, add salt and bring to a boil. Cook until fork tender, drain and allow excess water to evaporate. With a ricer, rice the potatoes to get rid of any excess lumps.

Heat the milk in a small pot on medium-low and, once warm, add the butter. Remove from heat and add the milk and butter mixture into the potatoes, along with the garlic and sour cream. Add a healthy dose of salt and pepper, and mix well.

Heat olive oil over medium heat in a cast iron skillet or large frying pan. Once hot, add the Brussels sprouts. Season with salt, and spread into an even layer on the pan. Once the Brussels sprouts are golden with some crispy texture, add 1 teaspoon lemon zest, the red pepper flakes and the balsamic vinegar. Stir to combine, and allow to cook for 2–3 additional minutes, then remove from heat.

Spoon the mashed potatoes into a large serving bowl. Make some small, 1”-thick wells around the perimeter of the potatoes, and sprinkle in the Brussels sprouts. Add toasted pine nuts atop the sprouts, and sprinkle with remaining lemon zest, salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.

EdibleAustin.com / 37

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edible GARDENS

Gardening the Green Way

by DARBY KENDALL / photography by LINDA LEHMUSVIRTA

S

pring often takes the cake for Texans’ most beloved garden-

leaving a small bare spot around the trunk of the tree, or leave any

ing season, but autumn is also an ideal time of year to put

grass that’s growing well in place.

new plants in the ground. If your yard regularly requires an

exasperating amount of water to stay alive, consider switching to a

According to local landscape designer Lisa LaPaso, the open space

drought-tolerant landscape this fall.

beneath the drip line gives gardeners the perfect opportunity to put

Xeric yards — areas designed with specific plants and layouts to

live in a park,” she says. “Generally what I'll do with my clients is try

thrive on minimal watering — support pollinator-friendly plants

to figure out what's the minimum we can do back there and let the

and benefit the environment. These water-wise gardens also vary

trees be the star of the show.”

in a bench or picnic table. “With trees, I tell people to pretend you

widely from the stereotypical spreads of rock and cacti. From flowering cottage gardens to native plant paradises to tree-filled escapes,

Another preparatory step is figuring out the sunny and shady parts

water-efficient yards can be both beautiful and effective.

of your yard so plants with specific light requirements will go in the right places. “There's not a one-size-fits-all when it comes to design-

Linda Lehmusvirta, producer of Central Texas Gardener, advises those

ing in Austin,” Lehmusvirta says. “The first thing that people need to

considering the switch to xeric to first think about how they want to use

think about is the light and their soil. You need to watch the light at

their yard. “We all have different needs,” she says. “If you have small

different times of day, and through the different seasons.”

children and pets, you might want a play area or a swing set. You might want a patio where you can entertain your friends and family. Or you

In Austin, the quality of soil differs dramatically from neighborhood

might want a vegetable garden, succulent bed or raised bed.”

to neighborhood. If you’re unsure of what the soil in your yard is like, have it tested for nutrients so you know which fertilizers and amend-

After determining your priorities, the next step is to observe your

ments should be added before planting. This can be done via the City

space. If you have any patches of grass growing well without frequent

of Austin’s Soil Kitchen or the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service.

watering, leave them intact! There’s nothing wrong with areas of turf if they are easily maintained without herbicides and excessive watering.

Once you have the soil, shade and sunlight sorted out, it’s time to

If you do leave some turf, don’t mow it too often. Constantly cutting

prep your yard for new plants! When constructing a xeric space,

grass is harmful to a lawn, as it prevents seeding and slows root growth.

LaPaso suggests taking a less-is-more approach, relying on com-

Larger trees should also be taken into consideration. When working

post and mulch to do most of the work.

in a yard with trees, plant outside of a tree’s drip line — the circular

“Compost like nobody's business. I always tell people to put down

space that starts at the trunk and expands to the widest branches,

four to six inches; it should come up to your fence, because by the

reflecting where its roots grow underground. Keep in mind that the

time it's laid out and the air has come out of it, you're down to three

drip line will grow as the tree does. Either mulch the area thoroughly,

inches if you put down six,” LaPaso says. “People don't realize that

EdibleAustin.com / 39

edible GARDENS

TIPS FOR XERIC GARDENS IN CENTRAL TEXAS: • Prep the ground for forthcoming garden beds by layering newspaper or cardboard in the spots where you want to clear out patches of lawn or weeds.

what we really need to do in the way of amendments is the same thing that we're doing out in the woods, which is composting. Out there, you have natural degrading of plant and animal materials.”

Though rocks are a common filler for xeric yards, Daphne Richards of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service cautions against using too many. “Rocks are problematic because they give off more heat than people realize. They will also get weeds growing in them,”

• Buy plants that are both drought and freeze tolerant. Find

Richards says. If you have large areas of the yard to fill, Richards

plants suited for USDA Hardiness Zone 8, meaning they will

recommends using locally made mulch to both cover the empty

survive winter temperatures down to 10°.

spaces and retain groundwater for plants.

• Before you put new plants in the ground, be sure the dirt is moist and loosened to minimize shock to the transplant.

When it comes to choosing greenery for a xeric garden, native and adapted plants are the way to go. They’ve evolved with our climate so they naturally need less water, and pollinators love them. But

• Do your homework on the plants you purchase. Know how

keep in mind that even these plants require some extra love at first.

large they will become so you can give them adequate room to grow while planting them. Drawing a grid of your yard to

“Everything needs water its first year,” Lehmusvirta says. “You

visualize plant spacing is helpful.

don't take a baby plant from the nursery where its been coddled and throw it into the big, wide world without giving it a little extra

• If you don’t already have any trees or taller plants, put in a

care. It's getting its roots in.”

mix of plants that vary in height to provide some shade and canopy for the yard.

After the plants are in the ground, the true learning experience begins. “Every day I learn something new; every day I make a

• It isn’t necessary to install irrigation with a garden. A bit

new mistake. You just try your best,” Lehmusvirta says. As with

of watering from a hose sprinkler, drip hose attachment or

all things in nature, there are ups and downs in gardening, but the

watering can will suffice. Try to water early in the morning,

successes are extremely beneficial to both the gardener and the

before the sun is up.

surrounding environment.

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y’all!

SMART storage

TIPS FOR

ORGANIZING

YOUR PANTRY

by RACHEL JOHNSON

SMART storage

N

o matter the size of your pantry, organization is the key to

tents, run the jar through the dishwasher and/or wipe with a rub-

spending less money and minimizing food waste. Allow-

bing alcohol pad to remove the writing.

ing food to expire simply because it got lost in the clutter,

or you forgot you bought it in the first place, is totally avoidable — it all starts with a bit of tidying up. Before you go on your next grocery run, try sorting out your food storage to avoid buying the third jar of mustard you could have sworn you were out of! Read on for organization tips, container ideas and more.

To go the extra mile, cut out packages’ cooking instructions for quinoa, couscous, oats and more, and place them directly in their respective jars for future use. A quick Google search will let you know how much water it takes to cook a cup of brown rice, but having the information at hand is always ideal. Just make sure to remove the slip of paper or plastic before cooking!

ORGANIZE YOUR WAY

And remember, your pantry will be disorganized at times. Life

Depending on your lifestyle, your pantry should reflect your unique

times, you’ll end up with three open boxes of spaghetti, and that’s

needs. For example, keeping desirable snacks (chips, cookies, etc.) out of reach might be ideal for homes with little ones. However, in order to make the most out of perishable snacks, keep them accessible at eye level for grazing adults to find and enjoy before the food turns.

doesn’t allow us to constantly have Pinterest-worthy shelves! Sometotally okay. Give yourself the grace of mess, find whatever system works best for you and work within those means. As for the rest, your local food pantry will gladly accept those unopened, unexpired goods that you might not need anymore.

Figure out what categories of dry and canned goods work for you, and go from there. If you are an avid baker and have stockpiles of chocolate chips and flours, group these items on the same shelf. If

HOW LONG CAN I KEEP IT?

you like to keep ready-to-eat meals like soups and noodles in stock,

Spices: Two to three years for ground spices, three to four years

group them together on a higher shelf, so they’re out of the way until

for whole spices and one to three years for dried herbs, depend-

you need them. Keep items that last for a long time (canned vege-

ing on the variety. If you’re unsure how long you’ve had a certain

tables, backup condiments, jarred sauces, etc.) on the bottom shelf.

spice, see if it still has a strong odor and bright color, both of

Affix a circular sticker labeled with permanent marker on the tops of

which indicate freshness. To boost the flavor of a spice before

cans so they can be easily identified from above.

incorporating it into a recipe, try heating it gently in a dry skillet to “bloom” the aroma and flavor.

LABELS AND CONTAINERS Clear containers are the most effective for easily identifying what foods are currently in your pantry. Larger boxes or bags can be organized into their own bins, allowing for quick visual cues to help decide what to buy at the grocery store. If the bin is full, move on to the next item on your shopping list. Labeling boxes and jars is definitely a smart move, but don’t get locked into permanent categories. As your pantry needs and culinary tastes evolve, your organization strategies should do the same.

Air-tight glass jars are great for storing dry goods. Plus, their universal screw-top lids can be easily replaced if they are lost or damaged.

Display colorful beans, unique pasta shapes and whole grains on

Dry Grains: Six months to a year. Keeping grains and dry goods in labeled glass jars can help you keep track of how long they are stored. Consider keeping grains in the freezer to extend their life.

Protecting grains from temperature, moisture and humidity is key!

Flour: Six months to a year. Shelf-stable flour should be kept in airtight containers to block moisture and potential pests. Freshly milled whole wheat flours and nut flours should be kept in the fridge or freezer due to their tendency to spoil quickly.

Sugar: Two years. Granulated white sugar can technically last indefinitely, but brown and powdered sugars should be used within a couple of years.

an open shelf, making your storage solutions do double duty as

Baking Soda/Powder: Toss six months after opening. When ex-

decoration. Don’t have a label maker? No problem! Use permanent

posed to air, these leavening agents will lose potency over time

markers to indicate the type of food and the date it was opened on

and could potentially ruin a recipe. Unopened containers can last

the surface of the jar. When it comes time to change out the con-

one to two years.

EdibleAustin.com / 45

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Help Feed Your Neighbors

by DERRICK CHUBBS, PRESIDENT AND CEO OF CENTRAL TEXAS FOOD BANK

T

hroughout Hunger Action Month in September, the Central Texas Food Bank is teaming up with Feeding America, a network of nationwide food banks, in an effort

to fight hunger. Hunger Action Month is designed to raise awareness of food insecurity in America — the USDA found that 41 million Americans, including nearly 13 million children, are food insecure — and to inspire people to take action.

Right here in Central Texas, an area with so many outward signs of affluence, nearly 440,000 people are faced with hunger and may not know where they’ll find their next meal. That number includes one in five Central Texas kids who struggle with food insecurity.

The Food Bank and our partner agencies lead the charge in the battle against hunger in Central Texas, covering a 21-county service area twice the size of Massachusetts. Despite distributing

donations online. It’s easy and a great way to set up a competition

nearly 47 million pounds of food last year, we’re still falling short

among friends, teams or groups. Challenge each other to see who

of demand by about 25 percent, according to Feeding America’s

can raise the most to fight hunger in Central Texas.

annual “Map the Meal Gap” survey.

Another great way to make a difference is by volunteering. VolunIt’s important that all of our neighbors have access to enough

teers are the heart and soul of the Food Bank. They bring our mis-

healthy food to reach their full potential — especially our chil-

sion to life. There are weekday, evening and weekend volunteer

dren, who cannot grow, succeed or learn on empty stomachs.

opportunities that are perfect for individuals and groups. Our vol-

But we can’t win the fight against this public health crisis without your help. That’s where Hunger Action Month comes in. Simply put, the Food Bank needs your help so we can help those in need.

So, what can you do to make a difference?

unteers help prepare food donations for distribution, deliver food at mobile food pantries and lend a hand in our kitchen or garden.

And make plans to join us on September 5 for our annual Hunger Heroes dinner, which celebrates the Food Bank’s partners working to end hunger. 2019 James Beard Award finalist, Chef Kevin

The quickest and easiest way to have an impact is to make a dona-

Fink of Emmer & Rye, will create a special menu for the event

tion. The Food Bank can turn each donated dollar into four meals.

and serve it in the Food Bank’s warehouse. Thank you for your

So a contribution of just $50 can provide 200 meals! And with our

support of the Central Texas Food Bank.

four-star Charity Navigator rating, you can rest assured that we’ll use your gift wisely.

You can also conduct a “Virtual Food Drive” by collecting monetary

Find event details and tickets at centraltexasfoodbank.org/HungerHeroes.

To discover what good seeds you can sow for all Central Texans, visit centraltexasfoodbank.org

EdibleAustin.com / 47

edible VARIETAL

The Temptation of Texas Tempranillo

by KRISTI WILLIS photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

T

empranillo can be a bit of an enigma. When searching for it in a wine shop, you may find it labeled under many different names, due to it being the fifthmost-planted grape variety in the world. While it’s best known for its home

in Central Spain, Rioja, you might also see it listed as Cencibel, Tinta del Toro, Tinta del Pais, Ull de Llebre or, in Portugal, as Tinta Roriz.

But it is tempranillo’s chameleon-like qualities in the winery that truly make it a diverse wine. When young and aged briefly in oak, the medium-bodied tempranillo bursts with red cherry and blackberry flavors with hints of dill, perfect for a backyard barbecue. But let the wine age in oak barrels for a few years, and tempranillo takes on a velvety, fuller-bodied quality with notes of deep baked berries and fig and undertones of leather and tobacco.

Tempranillo’s affordable price tag and food-friendly style make it a good bet for Texas wine

48 / EdibleAustin.com

edible VARIETAL

lovers. The wines have enough character to balance our beloved

and adding 10 percent tannat for a little bit of backbone and sup-

cured and smoked meats, and enough fruit to hold their own with

port,” says Centanni. “We’re proud of how it turned out.”

barbecue sauces and salsas. Tempranillo and taco Tuesday are a sure bet. With that food pairing profile, it’s no surprise that Texas winemakers have embraced the grape.

Growing tempranillo in Texas isn’t without its challenges. The vine can be so productive that you have to manage it to ensure the grapes get enough nutrients and it matures early. If you leave the

Jason Centanni, winemaker at Llano Estacado in the Texas High

grapes hanging on the vine too long, you end up with a wine that

Plains, loves the versatility of tempranillo. “Depending on the

might be higher in alcohol content than desired.

clone and the root stock, you get a different expression of the grape in each vineyard,” he says. “It makes it special. As a winemaker, you get to hone in on that varietal and let the grape tell the story.”

Clearly, plenty of Texas winemakers think the grape is worth the effort. Award-winning tempranillos grace the shelves of dozens of wineries, with more medals arriving daily, begging the argument

Llano Estacado has been highly praised, receiving the Gold

that tempranillo might be fast becoming the darling of Lone Star

Judges’ Selection Nomination for a Top Texas Red at the 2019

producers.

TEXSOM International Wine Awards for their THP tempranillo blend. “We call it THP for ‘Texas Hocus Pocus’ because the result is the magic of blending tempranillo from three different vineyards

“If you see a Texas tempranillo, give it a shot,” urges Centanni.

“It's a bottle that is going to outshine other varietals.”

Where to Find Texas Tempranillo AB ASTRIS

2015 Tempranillo

BECKER VINEYARDS

2017 Tempranillo Reserve

BENDING BRANCH WINERY

2014 and 2015 Tempranillo Newsom Vineyards

BINGHAM FAMILY VINEYARDS

2015 Reserve Tempranillo, 2016 Dirt Farmer Red Blend, 2017 Turnrow Red Blend

BRENNAN VINEYARDS

2016 Tempranillo

CALAIS WINERY

2016 Cuvée du Manoir

CHRISTOVAL VINEYARDS FALL CREEK VINEYARDS

MESSINA HOF

2017 Paulo Tempranillo, 2017 Private Reserve Tempranillo

NEWSOM VINEYARDS

2015 Tempranillo

PEDERNALES CELLARS

2016 Texas Tempranillo Reserve, 2016 Texas High Plains Tempranillo, 2016 Texas Hill Country Tempranillo, 2016 Bingham Vineyards Reserve, 2016 Kuhlken Vineyards Reserve Blend, 2016 Family Reserve Blend

2015 Tempranillo

PERISSOS VINEYARD & WINERY

2016 ExTerra Tempranillo Salt Lick Vineyards, 2017 Fall Creek Vineyard Tempranillo, Salt Lick Vineyards Terroir Reflection

2015 Tamara, 2015 and 2016 Tempranillo, 2016 and 2017 Racker’s Blend

PONTOTOC VINEYARD

2016 San Fernando Academy Blend, 2016 Smoothing Iron Mountain Blend

RANCHO LOMA VINEYARDS

2017 Toro Tempranillo, 2016 The Tempest Reserve Red Blend, 2017 RLV Valera Blend

FLAT CREEK ESTATE

2015 Reserve Tempranillo

HAAK VINEYARDS

2017 Tempranillo

HILMY CELLARS

2016 The Temp, 2017 Rosé

HYE MEADOW WINERY

2015 Tempranillo

SALT LICK CELLARS

Tempranillo

LEWIS WINES

2015 Texas Tempranillo

SPICEWOOD VINEYARDS

LLANO ESTACADO

2014 THP Tempranillo

2016 Tempranillo, 2014 The Good Guy Blend

LOST DRAW CELLARS

2016 Tempranillo

STONELEDGE WINERY

2017 Tempranillo

LOST OAK WINERY

2017 Tempranillo

WEDDING OAK WINERY

2015 and 2016 Tempranillo Reserva

EdibleAustin.com / 49

RAKE a big plastic leaf rake is useless in the garden, unless you have a lawn. Opt for a tiny hand rake—the bamboo rakes will grab everything if the curved ends are left on, but prune the ends for a perfect tool for getting amongst shrubbery

FELCO #2 PRUNERS no other pruners

match them—a pair will easily last 15 years

HAWS WATERING CAN

the balance of these cans has never been matched—they are available in plastic, but a copper one makes the ultimate gardener gift

GARDEN FORK

you should have two, to divide perennials— use back to back and pry plants apart

A WORD TO THE WISE

DANDELION WEEDER

every gardener should get a tetanus shot every 10 years

you must get the full taproot or you’ll get a new plant, double the size

GARDEN SCISSORS

for cutting twine, flowers, trimming—have several pairs on hooks around the garden so there’s always one close at hand

WAXED STRING*

for tying hearty plants—lasts through the wettest conditions, and the wax means it holds its knots tightly

JUTE* is soft

and won’t cut through tender stems (tomatoes, delphiniums)

A LONG THIN TROWEL

is best for planting small bulbs, like iris and narcissus

DO NOT use wooden tools for prying rocks or roots out, they don’t bend, they snap— have a PRY BAR at hand

A TIP: never, ever buy a cheap tool—you

will bend and break 6 of them, and then go grumbling to buy the quality tool you should have purchased in the first place. A good tool, treated properly, may outlast you!

MESH GLOVES WITH RUBBER GRIPS

A POT OF SAND WITH OIL IN IT is a must for

storing tools over winter.

Oil the handles with LINSEED OIL at the end of the year, and put the metal blades into the sand until spring.

* string too short to be

of any use is good to leave out for nesting birds

great for gardening—they let your hands breathe while protecting them from punctures— also handy for de-shedding the cat

Illustrations by Bambi Edlund

•

Garden wisdom by James Bennett

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