Edible Austin Cooks! by Edible Austin

No. 30

速

Cooks!

Memb er of Edible Commu n it ies

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COOKS! 2013

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CONTENTS 22 Cooks toolbox Must-Have Kitchen Tools Culinary couple whittles down their favorites.

26 sustainable Kitchen Barton Seaver on Seafood T ips to make good choices at the seafood counter.

52 entertaining at Home Feast of the Seven Fishes Texas-Style

Special Holiday Section

A holiday Texas food and wine pairing.

page 43

68 Hip Girl’s Guide

to homemaking Savory gluten-free pies.

82 Smart food Tools for mindful eating Grow your awareness of eating.

85 Directory Welcome to our fourth—and final—annual edition of Edible Austin COOKS! We hope you enjoy reading it with as much pleasure as we had in its creation. We’d like to thank our contributors as well as our story subjects for their hard work and talents shared. You can find full bios and contact information for our contributors, plus many additional recipes and resources online at edibleaustin.com. Beginning in 2014, the COOKS issue will become one of our regular bimonthly publications. — Marla Camp, publisher Cover: Photograph of Tim Byres's breakfast spread by Kate LeSueur (page 68).

Cooks at home 10

Aaron and Stacy Franklin

Diana Kennedy

Tatsu Aikawa

Jen and Alex Jackson

Tim Byres

Josh Watkins

Tink Pinkard

cooking basics 28

Enchiladas

DIY Condiments

Making Bread

Making Meatless Meals

at HOME 60

The Right Stuff

Live, at Center Stage

Publisher Marla Camp

Associate PUBLISHER Jenna Noel

December 7–14

Paramount Theatre and The Cynthia and George Mitchell Foundation present, in partnership with Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week and The Texas Tribune:

Sustainability Talk:

Food and Agriculture

EDITOR Kim Lane

Advertising Director Dawn Jordan

Production Assistant Whitney Arostegui

December 8 • 7:30 PM STATESIDE AT THE PARAMOUNT Join leaders of the sustainable food and farm movement for an unforgettable evening of conversation on sustainability in the context of agriculture and food systems. Panel discussion after talk with Don Shaffer, Dr. Michael Webber, Erin Flynn, and panel moderator, Evan Smith. After the talk, you may meet area farmers and shop at Edible Austin’s Farmers Market in the Theatre’s lobby. Proceeds from this event will support the historic Paramount Theatre, Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots.

Edible Austin VIP Reception Edible Austin presents a VIP reception from 6–7 pm, where you can meet our speaker while enjoying locally sourced, seasonal tastings from Austin’s chefs, along with local wines and spirits and live music by Austin’s Bluegrass Outfit. For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221.

Copy Editor Christine Whalen

Editorial Assistants Melinda Barsales, Dena Garcia, Marie Franki Hanan, Michelle Moore, Lauren Walz

Advertising Sales Curah Beard, Laurie Cochran, Michael Muela, Lis Riley

Distribution Manager Greg Rose

Contributors Full listing online at edibleaustin.com

Advisory Group Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle

About Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week December 7–14 Edible Austin launched Eat Drink Local Week seven years ago to encourage restaurants to source locally and support Central Texas farms. As we‘ve enthusiastically watched that goal grow into a reality as farm-to-table options are proliferating throughout the Central Texas dining scene, we decided it was time to change it up a little. For this year’s Eat Drink Local Week (EDLW), we challenge the community not only to continue supporting locally sourcing restaurants but also to bring it a little closer to home by cooking a few meals throughout the week entirely with local ingredients. Edible Austin will be at farmer's markets across the city throughout the week to encourage home cooking with farm fresh ingredients and we'd love for you to join us! For more information on our 2013 EDLW, visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal —we will be launching a mapped guide to locally sourcing restaurants in Austin as well as announcing details to our signature EDLW event. EDLW benefits Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots. 6

COOKS! 2013

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Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2013. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

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COOKS! 2013

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Aaron Franklinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grilled Tri-Tip Roast

Let the tri-tip come to room temperature, lightly coat it with olive oil and lightly apply salt and pepper.

Serves 4 to 5

Get the grill going with charcoal and, when the coals are ready, spread them to a thicker layer on one side of the grill and a thinner one on the other. Place the preferred hardwood to the side of the coal bed (for smoke).

The beef tri-tip roast is a small, triangular, boneless cut of beef that comes from the bottom sirloin. It usually weighs one and a half to two and a half pounds, and is lean, tender and flavorful and has little waste. 1 tri-tip roast (Aaron prefers Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria) Olive oil Kosher salt and coarse black pepper, to taste 5 juicy limes, halved Fresh tortillas Ripe avocados, peeled and sliced

COOKS! 2013

Salsa of choice Supplies: Grill and charcoal chimney Natural lump charcoal Preferred type of hardwood (Aaron likes oak)

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When the grill is at a medium heat (when you can hold your hand 1 inch above the grate for 2 seconds), place the tri-tip on the grill with the thicker end over the hotter side of the grill. Flip the roast every minute and squeeze lime juice on the meat (place spent lime halves on the grill) until the desired doneness is achieved (Aaron prefers mediumrare, or when the internal temperature is between 125 and 130 degrees). Remove the tri-tip from the grill and let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Slice it against the grain and eat it on tortillas with avocado, salsa and a squeeze of grilled lime, or whatever else you may find in your fridge!

COOKS at home

Aaron and Stacy Franklin by MM Pac k • P h oto g ra p h y by W h i t n ey A rost egu i

taurant, they aren’t doing too much cooking at home. “Maybe

it’s what Aaron calls “maintenance day,” and on this particular

cue. [But] we never cook together; our styles are completely

n Mondays, Aaron Franklin does not smell like smoke. That’s the day that Franklin Barbecue—the ridiculously popular restaurant he owns with his wife Sta-

cy—is closed, and it’s, ostensibly, his day off. In reality, though, Monday, he’s got work to do on the roof. The restaurant’s infrastructure demands lots of tender loving care. Once home to the iconic Ben’s Long Branch Bar-BQue, it wasn’t in great shape when the Franklins acquired it in 2011 after outgrowing their nearby barbecue trailer. “I’ve been a handyman for a long time,” says Aaron (he and Stacy have done most of the remodeling and updating themselves). They’re discussing rezoning with the city, which would allow expanding the kitchen and adding a roof over the outside barbecue pits. “Now, when it rains, we get rained on. When it’s cold, we’re cold. Also, we could build new bathrooms!” The Franklins debuted their tiny barbecue trailer in 2009, and it immediately met with wild success—selling out by lunchtime since opening day, and eliciting praise from the likes of Anthony Bourdain, the New York Times and the Washington

Because the Franklins spend 12 to 18 hours a day at the resonce a week,” says Aaron. “We still grill at the house,” adds Stacy. “Pizza, steaks, burgers…sometimes, I even crave barbedifferent. Before the business, we used to make complicated meals, but only one of us at a time. I like making sauces and I tried re-creating dishes from the restaurants where I waited tables.” Aaron, on the other hand, admits he likes “going really, really deep into one dish—making it over and over ’til it’s the best it can be. I’ve done that with pan gravy, fried chicken and chicken-fried steak.” Things are about to change in the Franklin household— they’re expecting their first child in November. “We’ve got a little brisket in the smoker,” smiles Aaron. “So, we’re working on ways to keep the restaurant quality up without us being there 24-7.” “When the baby comes,” adds Stacy, “we’re planning on spending more time at home—not day and night at the restaurant. So, after a long time, we’ll be cooking at home again…just not together.”

Post. In 2011, Bon Appétit magazine declared the two-year-old Franklin the best barbecue in America. Before going pro, the couple enjoyed throwing backyard parties for their friends. “I got started with a little New Braunfels cooker I bought at Academy for ninety-nine dollars,” Aaron recalls. “And I just got obsessed.” However, his barbecue roots run deep. When he was an adolescent, Aaron’s family owned a small barbecue joint in Bryan. “Mainly I just hung around, sometimes chopping the onions; I never paid any attention to cooking the meat,” he says. When he moved to Austin, he worked construction and played drums in rock bands and then, for 18 months, he manned the cash register at John Mueller BBQ on Manor Road—absorbing pit technique from a master. Stacy, who keeps the books and oversees the front of the house, remembers when they first opened the trailer. “While Aaron smoked the meats, I made the sides—including the banana pudding, which was seasoned with my tears. I was cooking on this propane burner and it just would not cooperate,” she says. (Today, the restaurant’s pies are prepared by pastry chef Melissa Brinckmann of Cake and Spoon.)

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COOKS! 2013

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COOKS at home

Diana Kennedy by So l l Suss m a n • P o rt ra i t by K at e L eSu eu r

fter decades of traveling and writing about Mexican

sake, no nonstick stuff,” she says. “No Teflon! Any little gim-

food and cooking it with flair and expertise, Diana

mick like that is lazy cooking.”

Kennedy finds it uniquely challenging to settle on

After the ingredients cool, they’re ground separately to a

just one special recipe for today’s profile. When asked, she

textured consistency. “I use an electric coffee and spice grind-

pauses thoughtfully for a moment, then admits she can’t

er,” she says, noting that she uses one grinder for coffee and

entirely answer the question because “every recipe I have

another for spices. The ground components are then mixed

evokes a cook, a journey, a landscape, a flavor,” she says.

with chile powder, but “not one of the chile powders you buy

Never daunted by a challenge, though, she continues to

out of a little glass jar,” Kennedy says with unabashed admo-

ponder. Then, bypassing the recipes of childhood, the last

nition. “You use a dried chile…dried chile de árbol with the

dishes shared between dear friends before parting or those

seeds.” Toast it lightly in a dry pan then grind it.

served every year during special holidays, she lands, oddly

The final step is the addition of salt, but again Kennedy

enough, on what some might consider a humble garnish. At

is abundantly clear about direction. “For goodness’ sake,

a comfortable table in the bar of Austin’s Fonda San Miguel

please use a good sea salt…and no kosher salt! Do not use

restaurant during the quiet time of cleanup, Kennedy recalls

kosher salt!” she repeats. “DK says, ‘off with their heads!’”

the trip where she first collected this chosen recipe.

she jokingly continues—not directed at the salt, per se,

“[Cuetzalan] is a lovely town on the Sierra Norte de Puebla… probably right on the border of Veracruz and Puebla states,”

known prickliness.

she says. “It was quite isolated. I was there in the seventies.

To further the theme, Kennedy then admits she chose

Friends in Puebla had pointed me to a family in town. The

chiltatis as her recipe partly because she’s still irked by a

market was so colorful—the men came in their white pants

recent New York Times article about the Middle Eastern pea-

and shirts…baggy pants…typical indigenous garb, with hemp

nut condiment known as dukkah. The writer had suggested a

bags slung over their shoulders and their huarache sandals.

Mexican variation of dukkah using pumpkin seeds and chile.

Selling their coffee or their vanilla beans.”

Obviously miffed that a beloved, authentic regional recipe

She takes out her reading glasses to look at the recipe in Photography of Chiltatis ingredients by Whitney Arostegui

but meant in general, as a lighthearted theme of that well-

a first-edition copy of her book My Mexico, and notes that

would be referred to as a “Mexican variation,” Kennedy pointedly asks: “Why don’t they read my books?”

the recipe is mistakenly entitled “Chilatas”—one of the copyediting errors to be corrected in the upcoming reissue of the book. “Chiltatis,” she says with exaggerated enunciation, “is the crunchy, healthy topping that nobody ever does. It’s often sprinkled on a freshly made corn tortilla or on soup or beans. I’d even use it on a salad.” Once prepared and properly stored in an airtight container, it keeps indefinitely. Kennedy always has some on hand in her kitchen. The recipe is a simple nut and seed combination, but each ingredient must be toasted separately in a heavy pan because they toast at different heat levels. “You can leave the brown skins on the peanuts; you don’t have to make a fuss,” she says. However, Kennedy’s infamous reputation as being somewhat prickly shows up with the next instruction. “For goodness’

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COOKS! 2013

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Diana Kennedy’s ‘Off with Their Heads’ Chiltatis Adapted from My Mexico by Diana Kennedy ½ c. shelled peanuts ½ c. sesame seeds ½ c. hulled raw pumpkin seeds 1 or 2 dried chile de árbol peppers ½ t. sea salt, or to taste In batches, toast the nuts and seeds separately in a heavy pan over medium-high heat until slightly brown and fragrant. Set aside to cool. Slightly toast 1 or 2 dried chile de arbol peppers with seeds in a dry pan until fragrant. In batches, grind the nuts, seeds and peppers separately. Mix the ground ingredients together and add sea salt to taste. Store in an airtight container. Keeps indefinitely.

Edible Austin presents Diana Kennedy at BookPeople, October 30, 7 p.m. Enjoy an evening of conversation with Diana Kennedy telling tales from her book, My Mexico, with tastings from Chef Iliana de la Vega of El Naranjo restaurant and Saint Arnold Brewing Company beer. FSM.Edible Austin.10-13_Layout 1 9/24/13 10:08 AM Page 1

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COOKS at home

Tatsu Aikawa by Ro b i n C h ot z i n o ff • P h oto g ra p h y by K at e L eSu eu r

“S

o, y’all are…not serving lunch?” the guy asks. No,

this family, we love to eat,” Makiko says. “I worked fourteen

and the absent line stretching down past the post

hours, too, raising him and his brother, cooking for them. I

office and into the parking lot should have been a

made homemade udon, homemade bread…I was living in the

good clue. When Ramen Tatsu-Ya is open, it’s standing room only.

kitchen. I sent them to school with lunches, sometimes bento

“I basically live here,” Tatsu Aikawa says. “I’ve worked

boxes. Those lunches were works of art.”

fourteen-hour days for the past year and anything I cook, I

When Tatsu was 10, she brought him and Shion to the U.S.

cook here or at our commissary kitchen, which we had to

for a year of English-language immersion that somehow never

open because we outgrew this place.” His signature broth—

came to an end. “I looked at Hawaii, Los Angeles, Denver,” she

creamy from pork marrow and in every other way adorned

remembers, “but Austin? Austin was a cool place. Whole Foods

with, as he says, “lotsa, lotsa pork”—takes 60 hours, give or

[Market] was just a small shop then.” Tatsu throws a handful of

take. Once in a while, Tatsu just gives up and sleeps here.

dried shrimp into a pan of oil heating at the stove, instructing

Perhaps the only thing separating this Monday from a regular restaurant day is the absence of pork. “I crave green

his mother, in Japanese, just how long to heat them so that they become a crispy—rather than burnt—salad addition.

stuff sometimes,” Tatsu says, as if admitting to a misdemean-

“I made ramen for him when he was very small,” Makiko

or. “I’m making a tofu salad. Tofu’s a great foundation—very

says, firmly in control. “I’d tell him and his brother: just sit

neutral…plus whatever herbs I can find…shiso, spinach, gar-

there at the table! Don’t move! Don’t go play! Because when this

lic chives, pea tendrils.”

ramen’s done, you can’t even wait one minute; you have to eat

He’s also found a bag of key limes, three perfect jalape-

it right away. And that’s how he is now. When he sends out a

ños, one avocado, a bunch of purple basil and a smattering

ramen, if they can’t find a customer, he just dumps it out and

of okra pods. Yes, this salad is uncharacteristically light and

starts over. Ramen is something you have to eat right now. He

simple, not to mention quick—Tatsu says he could throw it

got this from me.” Clearly, this makes her proud, right? “Well,”

together in five minutes if he were cooking for himself. But

she says, “I always criticize, but my husband and I are real

his mother’s in town from L.A., so he takes a little extra time

foodies and we go to all the places in L.A., Momofuku…”

with presentation. His knife flashes; the raw ingredients take on a composed, sculptural look he may have learned working at Musashino, or maybe not. “I never went to ramen school or anything,” Tatsu says. In fact, his formal education consists of graduating from high

“Mom. That’s gonna burn,” Tatsu interrupts. With Tatsu safely out of the kitchen and the flame turned down, Makiko feels freer to brag on her son. “It’s so good, this place…not even a high-end restaurant…all natural and not too expensive, so ordinary people can pay the price.”

school—“four different Austin high schools,” he says. “And then

Some of them aren’t so ordinary, though. From the begin-

I started out dishwashing and moved up from there.” Along with

ning, Ramen Tatsu-Ya has attracted a disproportionate num-

Ramen Tatsu-Ya’s co-owner, Takuya Matsumoto—a veteran of

ber of fans from the ramen-loving East and West Coasts, and

Second Bar + Kitchen—Tatsu worked nights as a hip-hop DJ, a

quite a few celebrities along the lines of Robert Rodriguez,

vocation that seemed more likely to be his road to success than

though they wait in line for ramen just like everyone else. The

soup. “Ramen…” he says dreamily. “I just learned from memory,

line is not un-fun. It’s a little like trying to get into Studio 54 in

trying to re-create this Southern style, the taste, the pork, think-

the 1980s, if Studio 54 had been friendly and democratic and

ing about the different regions, the different flavors—how to

the hipsters never butted ahead of the suburbanites. People

explain it? I could sit and talk about ramen for hours.”

get to know each other and sometimes end up sitting together,

Tatsu’s mother, Makiko, who has walked straight from the front door to the stove, has a different explanation. All of that

though they can’t exactly linger—not with the next hundred people coveting their seats.

food brilliance? The flair that generated the national buzz?

Tatsu reappears. Time to eat. In the dining room, he ad-

That recent appearance on Bon Appétit’s Top 50 New Restau-

justs a pea tendril, then drizzles on shrimp soy. A simple, non-

rants list? It began with her, in her home kitchen in Tokyo. “In

pork-based salad has somehow become a work of art. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2013

“Yes, it’s beautiful,” Makiko says. “You know, we have a famous flower arranger in our family.” So maybe it’s hereditary. Or maybe it started right here.

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Tatsu’s Tofu Salad for Mom Serves 1 to 2 This salad is versatile. Tofu has a neutral taste that helps balance seasoning, spice and oil. I recommend using semi-soft or medium-soft tofu for this dish. I used fresh Asian greens, but you can substitute with any greens: spinach, arugula or even broccoli. We use ramen noodles and shrimp for crunch, but you can use nuts or grains. Avocado adds a nice buttery flavor and lime ties everything together. For the shrimp soy: 1 oz. Korean-style salted shrimp (available at Asian markets) 2 cloves garlic, minced fine 4 T. light soy sauce 1¼ c. olive oil 1 t. sugar

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COOKS! 2013

Strain the liquid from the salted shrimp and remove the excess liquid by hand-squeezing. Finely chop the shrimp then whisk them together with the rest of the ingredients in a bowl until mixed evenly. Refrigerate for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using. Place the tofu in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, combine the greens, basil, okra, avocado and optional ingredients, if using, and place on top of the tofu. Drizzle with the shrimp soy to taste, squeeze on generous amount of lime juice and finish with freshly ground pepper, to taste.

2013-2014 PRESENTING SPONSOR

For the salad: 1 package medium-soft tofu, cut into bite-size chunks 1 bunch mixed greens Handful purple basil, chopped Handful okra pods, chopped ¼ avocado, sliced Fried ramen noodles (optional) Fried small dried shrimp (optional) Spicy peppers, diced (optional) Lime wedges Freshly ground black pepper

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COOKS at home

Jen and Alex Jackson by L au r e n Wa l z • P h oto g ra p h y by K at e L eSu eu r

en and Alex Jackson are remarkably laid-back for a hard-

like vegetables,” says Alex, who then acknowledges that’s an

working power-chef couple. As they prep dinner in their

odd statement for someone who works at a butcher shop. But

apartment building’s breezy rooftop space, they cook to-

vegetables figure prominently in Salt & Time’s menu—Alex’s

gether effortlessly—Jen preparing the dough while Alex chops

market salads, for example, made of enticing combinations

vegetables. And they communicate about the process word-

like cherry tomatoes and watermelon marinated in soy sauce

lessly—chatting, instead, about their favorite farmers, the lo-

and red wine vinegar, are generally vegan. “That’s where I re-

cal restaurant scene and how they came to be in Austin. With

ally get to bring it,” he says with a smile.

a relationship born in culinary school and seasoned over years in top restaurants, they move in tune.

recalls one time when she was on the hunt for early-season mel-

Even though both work long hours at up-and-coming res-

ons. A contact at Johnson’s Backyard Garden called her to let her

taurants—Jen is the executive chef at Josephine House and

know they had 12, but Alex, overhearing the conversation, got

Alex is the chef at Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria—

there first. “I didn’t take all of them!” he says. “I only took four!”

they still enjoy cooking together on their days off. The flat-

Jen likes to collect her produce in more unconventional

bread they’re making today is one of their staples. “We make a

ways, too. She and Alex share stories of getting attacked by

lot of pizza, because almost everything from the farmers mar-

grackles while foraging for figs or loquats and of Jen’s tragic,

ket, you can make a pizza out of,” says Jen. “We keep it pretty

unrequited love affair with wild mustang grapes (she’s allergic

easy,” adds Alex. “But every once in a while we’ll really throw

to the raw grapes). “I’ll eat them and my lips get numb and

down.”

my fingers start itching,” she says. “But I keep eating them

The couple met in Portland, while in culinary school at Le

because they’re really good!” She solves the dilemma by cook-

Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute. They moved to San Francisco

ing down the juice to use in sauces. Alex likes to experiment

together to work at a pair of Michelin-starred restaurants, and

with foraged finds, too, and is currently curing some green

then made their way to Austin. They like it here, even though

mustang grapes like olives. “They’re almost done,” he says,

“Portland is weirder,” Alex playfully ribs. “I feel like it’s a re-

“and they are awesome.”

ally powerful time for the food scene here,” Jen says. “Farmers

A few minutes later, the flatbread emerges, puffed and

are starting to be really integral. People are so proud of local,

smelling delicious. Alex finishes it off with a few handfuls of

and are trying to turn the tide.”

peppery arugula. The bread is light and fluffy and provides the

Since the rooftop grill, which Alex describes as unreliable,

perfect complement to the toppings. It’s a casual meal, but Jen

won’t light, the Jacksons abandon the sun and expansive views

and Alex pull it off with such perfect panache and grace that it

of downtown across the river and trek back down to their

feels elegantly indulgent.

ground-level apartment. It’s a tiny-but-cozy studio and, most importantly, it has reliable cooking equipment. Alex begins to sauté a mixture of sweet peppers, onions, eggplants and cherry tomatoes—tossing in some vinegar for good measure, and talks about the Austin restaurant scene, which he likens to an 18-year-old. “It’s very confident…very excited,” he says. “It’s crazy, the caliber of talent in this town.” “There’s so much energy,” Jen adds. “There’s a lot of passion. It really is kind of like an 18-year-old trying to decide where it’s going to go.” The Jacksons are part of that energy, and they’re both passionate about vegetables, and their local sources. Jen crafts her menu at Josephine House around Phoenix Farms’s weekly offerings—supplementing with market finds from Boggy Creek Farm and Johnson’s Backyard Garden, among others. “I just 20

“Alex and I have to battle over purveyors,” Jen laughs, and

COOKS! 2013

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The Jacksons’ Rooftop-or-Not Flatbread Serves 4 Later in the fall, Jen and Alex roast and puree butternut squash to use as a “sauce” for this flatbread—adding caramelized leeks, sage and a creamy-but-firm sheep’s milk cheese, plus eggs or crispy pancetta. They also make a pureed sauce of toasted pecans and caramelized onions and add anything from roasted cauliflower and plumped raisins to roasted garlic and smoked chicken. Note: Most professional bakers, like Jen, prefer measuring certain ingredients in weight as opposed to volume for accuracy. Since this recipe is a little more basic and forgiving, we’ve included both for convenience. For the starter: Pinch of instant yeast 2.2 oz. water (about 4 T. plus 1 t.) 3.6 oz. bread flour (about ²/³ c.) For the dough: 14.5 oz. bread flour (slightly less than 3 c.) 10 oz. water (1½ c.) Starter (recipe above) ¼ t. instant yeast 1½ t. salt 1 oz. olive oil (2 T.)

For the topping: 1 oz. olive oil (2 T.) 2 small white sweet onions, diced (about 1 c.) 2 small Japanese eggplants, diced (about 1 c.) 1 pt. sweet peppers, cut into small dice Splash of malt or other vinegar (optional) 2 T. chopped garlic chives 1 pt. cherry tomatoes, halved 3 eggs Pure Luck chèvre, to taste 1–2 c. wild arugula

First, prepare the starter. Combine the yeast and water and allow the yeast to bloom. Add the yeast mixture to the bread flour and mix thoroughly for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the starter in a lightly oiled bowl and let rest in a warm place for 12 to 16 hours. Next, make the dough. Mix the flour and water and fold in the starter along with the instant yeast. Mix for 1 minute then add the salt and olive oil. Mix in an electric mixer with a dough hook or paddle attachment for 6 minutes, or knead by hand for 12 minutes. Place the dough into a lightly oiled bowl and let rise for about 1 hour. Turn the dough over, and then let it rise for an additional hour. While the dough rises, prepare the toppings. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan and cook the onions for about 4 minutes. Add the eggplant and sauté for about 3 minutes. Add the peppers and cook until all vegetables are soft. Add the splash of vinegar, if using, then turn off the heat and stir in the chives and cherry tomatoes. Allow the mixture to cool before adding to the flatbread. Preheat the oven to 425°. Remove the dough to a floured surface, and knead and shape it. Place it on a small baking sheet and add the cooled toppings. Crack the eggs over the toppings, spacing evenly, and sprinkle with crumbled chèvre. Bake for 12 to 18 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and puffed and the toppings are set—rotating once halfway through. Top with the arugula to serve. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2013

Cooks toolbox

HIS and Hers Must-Have Kitchen Tools by A l e x a n d J e n Jac kso n

Alex Jackson is the chef in residence at Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria. Jen Jackson is the executive chef at Josephine House.

lex and I spent a great deal of time debating what constitutes a “must-have” for this piece—we both love gadgets, love ingredients, love kitchen equipment. And since we’ve both cooked in professional kitchens, we’ve had access to vacuum sealers, circulators, dehydrators, Pacojets, Thermomixes, Vitamixes, giant Robot Coupes and immersion blenders. Many of these machines slowly trickled into our home kitchen

where, for almost eight years, we collected everything we thought we might need to open our own restaurant. But when we made our move to Texas, we left our belongings in a storage unit where, alas, they were stolen. We found ourselves left with just the kitchen tools stuffed into our four suitcases—mostly in our knife rolls. Out of these, we’ve each chosen four items.

HIS

Chef’s Knife. First of all, I must have a sharp, sturdy chef ’s knife. My favorite has become my 9½-inch Misono UX10. This knife does any necessary vegetable work, fish and small animal butchery. I have named him Alexcaliber and I use him every day.

FISH SPATULA. I use the same spatula I received in my culinary school knife kit, 10 years ago. I’m not even sure what the brand is anymore, but I like a lightweight spatula—one that’s smaller so it travels well. I’ve used it to flip eggs, whisk soups and discipline line cooks (on occasion).

shovel spoon. Jen found this spoon in a thrift store when we were living in San Francisco, and I knew the potential of it when I saw her reluctance to actually hand it over. This spoon bastes, plates, flips, sauces and mashes, and I even use it to eat staff meals. Its multiuse status is what makes it special—I like the way it’s wide near the handle and does not sharply taper at the end, just like a shovel.

KOOZIE. At first, I chose a set of long tweezers as my final must-have. However, living in Texas has made me realize the value of a proper koozie. I use my Austin Beerworks Fire Eagle koozie daily. It’s bright blue so it never gets lost, and it folds nicely so I can take it anywhere. This koozie keeps my hand from warming the beer and the beer from cooling my hand. Brilliant.

HERS

fter hearing Alex’s must-haves, I’m not sure that mine will be quite as entertaining, but this is generally how things go for us.

Heatproof SPATULA. I’m also a huge fan of a solid, heatproof spatula. I grew up in a home where we never wasted anything, and that has stayed with me into the professional kitchen. I always have a spatula in my bin at work—to scrape the last bit of pan sauce, the spoonful of soup still in the saucepot or the vinaigrette coating the inside of the mixing bowl. At work, we have a professional series of spatulas, but at home, I like the wooden-handled, hard-rubber spatulas from Martha Stewart. She knows a thing or two about spatulas.

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Utility Knife. I also have to choose a

sharp, durable knife. I used to only use my larger (8inch) chef’s knife, but after working in kitchens where we do a lot of vegetable work and small animal butchery, I really value my 6-inch Misono UX10 utility knife. Misono knives hold their edges very well, and if you care for them, they last a long time.

scissors. I have my last two items in the chest pocket of my apron every day. The first is a

mini pair of scissors that the pastry sous-chef of Jeffrey’s gave me for cutting labeling tape, rather than using my knife. Not only do these scissors cut tape, but I use them to cut herbs in the garden, trim lettuces and greens off stems, cut butcher’s twine on cooked meats, cut open the netting bags on produce and, on occasion, to cut gauze or medical tape when a Band-Aid just will not do. These scissors are great because they do not rust from all the washing and sanitizing after each use, and the rubber handle makes them really comfortable.

Resources CALLAHAN’S General Store 501 Bastrop Hwy. 512-385-3452 callahansgeneralstore.com

Make it sweet 9070 Research Blvd. 512.371.3401 makeitsweet.com

Der Küchen Laden 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg 830-997-4937 littlechef.com

Mission Restaurant Supply 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-389-1705 missionrs.com

Faraday’s Kitchen Store 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540 512-266-5666 faradayskitchenstore.com KNIFE SHARPEST 4703 Burnet Rd. 512-467-9763 knifesharpest.com 24

COOKS! 2013

SERVE GOURMET GADGETS & GOODS 241 W. 3rd St. 512-480-0171 servegourmet.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

CAKE TESTER. The second is a cake tester—

my final item. These are found in the baking section of most cooking stores and usually cost about a dollar. This has become the most valuable piece in my knife kit. And while it obviously works for testing the doneness of breads, pastries and, of course, cakes, you can also gauge the temperature of meats, fish, vegetables and fruits. This method is more foolproof than touching the product with your fingers because the tester is inserted into the protein, vegetable or other item. Touching the metal tip to the inside your wrist, your lip or under your lip, like I do, reveals the internal temperature of the item. Of course, sterilization after each use is important (I use a sanitizing bain), and the method takes practice! Use caution because a very hot item can result in a very hot tip and a very unsightly facial burn!

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sustainable KITCHEN

Barton Seaver ON SEAFOOD by K r i st i W i l l i s • P h oto g ra p h y by J e n n a N o e l

uying seafood can be overwhelm-

counter. He suggests we ask what’s freshest

ing. Doctors and nutritionists tell

and best rather than arrive with a precon-

us to eat more seafood for a healthy

ceived notion of what to purchase. The fish-

diet, but environmental groups warn us that

erman can’t control what fish are available,

we’re overfishing the oceans to the degree

but the consumer can easily adapt a recipe.

that a number of species are in danger of

Seaver proposes switching the equation to

extinction. The result is a dizzying array

let supply drive, rather than demand; to cre-

of rating systems meant to help consumers

ate a system that focuses on delicious prod-

better navigate the seafood counter, but of-

ucts instead of certain species.

ten simply add to the bewilderment.

As an example of this, Seaver often cites

Chef, sustainability advocate and author

the East Coast’s cod-verses-pollock issue.

Barton Seaver has a different approach to

Cod is a much more popular fish—fetching

the fish-buying dilemma. Raised on the Hud-

three times as much as pollock at the docks.

son River, Seaver grew up pulling giant blue

But both are delicious, flaky whitefish that

crabs off the pilings at the docks and catch-

can be easily substituted in recipes. Cod has

ing striped bass, bluefish, croaker, eel and

been overfished yet pollock is abundant, but

more. When he was writing his first menu as

shoppers haven’t necessarily changed their

a chef in Washington, D.C., he reached out to

habits to match what’s available.

the local fish purveyor and asked for some of

“If you walk up to the seafood counter and

his childhood favorites. “Sorry, kid, we ate all

ask for cod, the fishmonger is going to hand

those,” was the shocking reply.

you cod even if it’s not as fresh or sustainable,”

“I realized then that the guiding hand of

says Seaver. “But, if you say, ‘I want a flaky,

natural selection is quite firmly holding a fork, and that what we eat

white-fleshed fish. What do you have that’s freshest and best?’ he can

largely dictates how the world is used,” says Seaver. “I began to ask

steer you towards what they have in abundance.”

questions about how this could have happened.”

Seaver also encourages buyers to support the domestic shellfish

As he researched the issue, Seaver was unsatisfied with the an-

farming of mussels, clams, oysters and shrimp. These fisheries go

swers that centered only on the environmental aspect of the equa-

beyond sustainability—having little or no impact on the environ-

tion—a story of guilt and shame about the negative impact of hu-

ment—and they improve the water quality by reducing the upstream

mans on the ecosystem. “You don’t come to restaurants to learn

impact and adding nutrients to the ecosystem.

everything you’ve done wrong in your life,” he says. “I had to come

“Domestic oysters are environmentalism on the half shell,” says

up with a different narrative. When we talk about sustainable sea-

Seaver. “You can help save American jobs, restore domestic water

food, we’re actually talking about sustainable fisheries, which means

quality and bring about a more holistic relationship with our ocean

sustaining fishing communities and the economics of the relation-

by drinking a six-pack of domestic beer and eating a dozen American

ship with our resources.”

oysters. That’s the kind of environmentalism people can get behind.”

Seaver urges buyers to start their seafood purchases by supporting domestic fisheries, which are strictly regulated, focused on restoration and create jobs in their communities. “It is imperative that we partici-

SuSTAINABLE SEAFOOD BUYING TIPS

pate in buying American seafood,” he says. “Last year ninety-one per-

Barton Seaver’s TED Talk on sustainable fishing: ted.com

cent of the seafood we ate in this country was imported and over sixty

Fish Choice: fishchoice.com

percent of what we caught was exported. It is truly amazing that we

Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch: montereybayaquarium.org

lack the capacity to support our own men and women on the water.” The next step, according to Seaver, is for us to buy with courage—beginning with the all-important conversation at the seafood 26

COOKS! 2013

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National Geographic Seafood Guide: nationalgeographic.com Sustainable Sushi: www.sustainablesushi.net

Lemongrass Mango Louisiana Shrimp with Vermicelli Rice Noodles

When it comes to our seafood —

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That’s right, the reason that Louisiana Seafood is the best in the world is the water. Our shrimp, crab, oysters, and ﬁsh are thriving in ﬁsheries where nutrient-rich freshwater mixes with the crystal clear Gulf water to produce a one-of-a-kind environment. One taste and you know it’s Louisiana seafood — fresher, sweeter and more delicious. Pick Louisiana Seafood to make every dish perfect. This recipe, stories and more at LouisianaSeafood.com

Demand It.

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cooking BASICS

Enchiladas by I l i a n a D e L a V ega a n d I sa b e l To r r e a l ba • P h oto g ra p h y by A n dy Sa m s

nchiladas are typically one of the most representative

sesame seeds to onions, radishes and lettuce. When making

dishes of Mexican food—perhaps second only to ta-

enchiladas the variable components are the chile and the tor-

cos. As simplistic as they may be, enchiladas are truly

tilla—when the former is added and how the latter is cooked.

emblematic of Mexican cuisine and of Mexico as a whole,

For this, there are three basic forms. First, the chile is added

considering that they contain many of the most distinctive

as a sauce that tops the previously fried tortilla. Second, the

and foundational ingredients used in Mexican cooking, like

tortilla is soaked in the sauce and then fried. Or third, the chile

chiles, corn, tomatoes, cheese, crema and onions. Enchiladas

is directly added into the corn masa (dough) for the tortilla

also hold true to a key element in Mexican culture and cook-

and is either fried or cooked on a comal or griddle afterward.

ing: the principle of making use of whatever you may have

Even though making enchiladas is fairly simple and re-

available while trying not to waste anything. The diversity

quires little time and few ingredients, there are some guide-

and colorfulness of Mexico is alive in this dish as well, as

lines that need to be followed in order to get a perfect and true

each region and most states have a traditional and unique

enchilada. Despite the fact that most enchiladas call for frying

way of making enchiladas and utilizing the local chiles and

the tortillas, they should not be greasy. To prevent this, simply

cheeses. Though the ingredients and names of the enchila-

place the fried tortillas on paper towels for a few seconds to

das are of great variance, the cooking methods are mostly

drain. Also, it’s important not to over-fry the tortillas or they’ll

the same, with only a handful of differences.

become too crisp and impossible to roll or fold properly. The

So, what makes an enchilada? In essence, it’s a corn tor-

tortillas should be submerged in the oil only for a few seconds

tilla, either rolled or folded in half, and a chile sauce. It’s

and should be soft and lightly golden. Another common mis-

usually filled with things like chicken, cheese or vegetables,

take is making the enchiladas too far ahead of time. Enchiladas

and topped with anything from shredded cheese, cream and

should be finished just at the moment before serving or else

COOKS! 2013

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the tortillas will get soggy and break. Also, if they’re made too far in advance, the salsa will dry up on reheating. At El Naranjo, we serve our enchiladas verdes de la milpa four per person, but the recipe here is tailored for three per

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person. For the enchiladas potosinas, fresh masa can be bought in any of the local tortillerias, or you can also use store-bought masa harina flour. Working with masa is slightly tricky as you need to have the perfect amount of masa and water—it should feel like Play-Doh. But the enchiladas are so good that the effort is worth it! Crema Mexicana and queso Oaxaca, asadero, queso fresco and panela cheeses are available at many local grocers like H-E-B and Fiesta. Buen provecho!

Enchiladas de Espinaca y Queso de Cabra (Spinach and Goat Cheese Enchiladas) Serves 6

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3 lb. baby spinach 2 T. olive oil 1 clove garlic, peeled ½ c. pine nuts ½ c. black raisins ¾ c. goat cheese, crumbled, divided 2–3 dried morita chiles

1 c. boiling water 3 lb. Roma tomatoes 1 white onion, halved 2 cloves garlic, unpeeled ½ c. canola oil, divided 18 white corn tortillas ½ c. crema Mexicana Salt, to taste

In a large stockpot, bring salted water to a boil. Working in batches, blanch the spinach for 1 minute, or until it’s bright green. Remove immediately and shock the spinach in an ice-water bath. Immediately transfer to a colander to drain. Squeeze the spinach as much as possible, coarsely chop it and set aside. In a sauté pan, heat the olive oil and sauté the garlic clove until aromatic. Remove and discard the garlic. Reduce the heat to medium and add the squeezed spinach, pine nuts and raisins. Stir to break up the spinach and cook until the raisins puff, the pine nuts are slightly golden and the liquid is mostly evaporated. Remove from the heat, cool down slightly and mix in ½ cup of the crumbled goat cheese. Season with salt and keep warm. Remove the seeds, veins and stems of the chiles, transfer to a bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Soak for 10 minutes then drain. Meanwhile, place the whole tomatoes on a comal or griddle set over medium heat and roast them in batches, turning often until all are completely cooked inside and charred on the outside. Repeat the process with the onion halves and unpeeled garlic (remove the garlic when brown spots appear but let the onion char). Once the vegetables are roasted, peel the garlic and transfer it to a blender along with the tomatoes, onion and chiles, to taste, and blend. Heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil in a Dutch oven set over medium heat. Fry the tomato-chile mixture—cooking until the color changes and the pot looks almost dry. Add water to get a smooth sauce, season with salt to taste and keep warm. Heat the rest of the oil in a skillet over medium heat and pass the tortillas through the oil quickly. Remove and drain on paper towels. Working quickly, pass each tortilla through the tomato-chile sauce, stuff with some of the spinach mixture, fold in half and place on individual serving plates—3 enchiladas per person. Cover each plate with the remaining tomato-chile sauce, drizzle with the crema and sprinkle with the remaining crumbled goat cheese. Serve immediately.

Enchiladas Verdes de la milpa

weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned

Serves 6 For the salsa verde cocida: 2 lbs. tomatillos, peeled and rinsed ½ white onion

2 garlic cloves, peeled 2–4 serrano chiles ½ bunch cilantro Salt

For the filling*: 1 white onion, halved 1 clove garlic, unpeeled 6 large Roma tomatoes 2 poblano chiles, roasted, seeded and deveined 1 T. plus 1½ t. canola oil

1 c. sliced mushrooms 2 zucchinis, sliced in halfmoons 1 c. corn kernels 1 T. chiffonade-cut epazote leaves 1 t. salt

For the enchiladas: 4 c. salsa verde cocida ½ c. canola oil 18 white corn tortillas 3 c. prepared verduras de la milpa filling (see above)

1½ c. queso Oaxaca or asadero cheese ¼ white onion ½ c. crema Mexicana ¼ c. queso fresco or panela, grated 2 parsley sprigs

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To make the salsa, place the tomatillos in a pot along with the onion and garlic, cover with water and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook until the tomatillos change color, but do not let them burst open. For more information contact: Special Events Manager, Turn off the heat and set aside until completely cooled. Roughly Nancy Marr 512-451-5743 / nmarr @ escoffier.edu chop the chiles and pick over the cilantro—discarding any rotten 6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 / www.myculinaryadventure.com. or mushy parts. Set aside. Once the cooked vegetables are cooled, transfer them carefully with a slotted spoon to the blender. Using the pulse setting, process until everything is roughly chopped. Add13-0755_Escoffier_EdibleAustinAd.indd 1 9/27/13 half of the chiles and the cilantro and salt and pulse at low speed. Taste for salt and chile and adjust if necessary. The salsa should be pleasantly spicy. Makes 4 cups. Make the filling. Dry roast the halved onion, garlic and tomatoes (remove and peel the garlic when brown spots appear; let the onion and tomatoes char). Place the dry-roasted onion, garlic and tomatoes into the blender, process until smooth and reserve. Slice the poblano chiles and reserve. Heat the oil in a saucepan, sauté the mushrooms and zucchini until slightly cooked, add the reserved tomato puree and cook until the mixture changes color and dries out a little bit. Add the corn, poblano strips, epazote and salt and remove from the heat. Preheat the oven to 350°. Heat the salsa in a saucepan and keep warm. Meanwhile, heat the oil to medium-high and pass the tortillas through it using tongs. Drain on paper towels. Working quickly, pass each tortilla through the salsa verde, place it on a flat surface, fill with about two heaping tablespoons of the vegetables, roll and place on an ovensafe, lipped plate or in a gratin dish, seam-side down. Continue until each plate or dish has 3 enchiladas. Pour the salsa verde over the prepared enchiladas—and use a lot! (This is the best part.) Top the enchiladas with the Oaxaca cheese, place into the oven and bake until the cheese is melted and slightly golden—about 8 to 10 minutes. While the cheese is melting, thinly slice the onion and reserve. Once the cheese is melted, drizzle each serving with crema, garnish with queso fresco and decorate with parsley leaves and onion slices. * For a variation using an alternative pollo cocido (stewed chicken) filling, see edibleaustin.com

12:39 PM

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Enchiladas Potosinas Serves 6 2 dried ancho chiles, seeds and stems removed 1 clove garlic 1 lb. fresh white corn masa 2–4 T. masa harina (if needed) Salt, to taste

12 oz. queso Oaxaca, grated ½ white onion, chopped, divided 2 T. vegetable oil 1 avocado, sliced 3 oz. queso fresco, crumbled

Slightly dry roast the ancho chiles in a hot skillet, then soak them in hot water for 15 minutes. Place the chiles in a blender with the garlic and blend to make a smooth and thick puree—adding water only if needed. Place the fresh masa in a bowl, and add the chile puree and salt to taste. The dough should have the consistency of Play-Doh. If it’s too wet, add masa harina flour; if it’s too dry, add water by the spoonful. Cover the dough with a damp cloth and let it rest for 20 minutes. Make small tortillas about 4 inches in diameter and about ¹/16-inch thick with the prepared masa and cook them on one side only on a comal or griddle until the edges of the tortillas begin to separate from the griddle (if it’s easy to lift without it breaking, it’s cooked). On the cooked side of each tortilla, place some of the queso Oaxaca and onion (or stuff with cooked and shredded chicken or pork instead), fold in half and press to seal, like a turnover. Before serving, heat a griddle or skillet with a little vegetable oil and cook the enchiladas on both sides until heated through, the cheese is melted and the exterior is slightly browned. Transfer 3 enchiladas to each individual serving plate, garnish with some of the chopped onion, avocado slices and queso fresco on top. Serve immediately with your choice of salsa.

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cooking BASICS

DIY Condiments by Z ac k N o rt h cu t t • P h oto g r a p h y by J e n N a N o e l

reating basic condiments is an easy way to cater to your own taste and impart flavors in an often-overlooked area. Making them is easy, and once you get a knack for it, endless flavor profiles will be on hand to pair with any meal or snack. Here are some basic recipes and a few easy ways to modify them to make them your own.

Mayonnaise

raw garlic with half a cup of roasted garlic—perfect for calamari!

he first thing to understand about

Or consider adding herbs or peppers

mayonnaise is that it’s an emulsion

to dress up mayonnaise. Use fresh or

requiring the right balance of fat, protein

roasted peppers, though, because dried

and acid to create stable results. The egg

ones will be hard to incorporate smooth-

yolks in the recipe are the protein, the

ly. If you choose to use dried peppers,

lemon juice is the acid, the mustard is the

rehydrate them with warm water before

stabilizer and the oil is the fat. For spreads

placing them in the food processor. Add

for sandwiches or burgers, or mixing into

one cup of roasted bell peppers, a quarter

potato or tuna salads, I like my mayon-

cup of toasted pine nuts and two cloves

naises nice and thick. For dips, I like them

of garlic to the basic mayonnaise recipe

a bit thinner (use a bit of water to get the

to create the French classic rouille—great

desired thickness).

for seafood stews. Or add a quarter cup

When pairing mayonnaise with foods,

of fresh dill to the basic recipe to create a

think about the acids. Cooking Mexican?

great spread for cucumber sandwiches or

Ditch the lemon juice and go for lime

a base for potato salad. Any herb can kick

juice. For a tangy zip that I’m sure is under

off the basic mayonnaise; just choose one

that pairs well with your dish. When in-

red wine vinegar and a teaspoon of paprika, or substitute the

corporating anything into the mayonnaise, remember to always

lemon juice with six tablespoons of malt vinegar for a British

do a good rough chop on it and add it to the food processor

“chip”-style dip. Want something sweeter? Substitute a combi-

before adding the oil. This helps break it down nice and smooth

nation of two tablespoons of orange juice and two tablespoons

and makes it easier to incorporate the oil.

of sherry vinegar for the lemon juice. I’ve found this works very well for seafood salads. Also consider the oil when pairing mayonnaise with food. People usually choose oils based on health reasons; I go for flavors. Sunflower oil is one of the most neutral-flavored oils on the market—that’s why I use it in the basic recipe. Olive oils carry a lot of flavor and health benefits with them—these are great to use if pairing the mayonnaise with Italian-style foods. Now let’s talk about fancied-up mayonnaise, such as aioli. To make it, use the basic recipe and add two tablespoons of raw garlic. (The word “aioli” has been abused over the past few years. Once, in a store, I saw “Garlic Aioli” on the shelf…I had to just walk away. People call any sort of flavored mayonnaise aioli nowadays, so why stop them?) To mix it up, replace the

Basic Mayonnaise Makes approximately 1 quart 3 egg yolks 2 T. lemon juice 1 T. Dijon mustard

1 qt. sunflower oil (as needed) Salt and pepper, to taste

To make mayonnaise the easy way, simply place the egg yolks, lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper into a food processor and slowly incorporate the oil until it reaches the desired consistency. If you’re old-school or a purist, though, use a mixing bowl and a whisk. Just know that you might end up with forearms like Popeye. Mayonnaise keeps for about 2 weeks refrigerated. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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2 lb. fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped ½ c. tomato paste 1 c. water 2 c. white vinegar 2 T. salt ¼ c. fruit pectin ¼ c. sugar Combine all of the ingredients in a medium stockpot, and let simmer on very low heat for several hours, until it’s nice and thick. Place in a blender and blend until smooth. Catsup will keep for about a month refrigerated.

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he sugar in this basic recipe helps bind everything together, but also balances the bite of the mustard and the

acidity of the vinegar. The vinegar helps preserve the mustard, as well as transfers the spices. For a fun spin, try adding aromatics, but remember that strong spices are needed—go for cardamom, clove or Szechuan or pink peppercorns. It won’t take but two tablespoons of these fresh-ground spices added at the beginning of the recipe to come through. I also like to use fruits in mustards—a cup of peeled pears or apples, or even cranberries, will really make mustards pop, and the mustard pairs great with sandwiches or a grilled pork chop. To make the hot Chinese- or French “Fallot”-style mustards, simply add some mustard flour. If you can’t find mustard flour, ground yellow mustard will work, but it’s not as fine. Add either one a teaspoon at a time (both are rather potent) when the base is still warm, whisk until smooth and give it a quick taste. Keep adding the flour or ground mustard until your desired flavor is reached.

Basic Mustard Makes about 1 cup ½ c. whole brown mustard seeds ½ c. whole yellow mustard seeds ½ c. sugar ¾ c. white wine vinegar 2 T. salt

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Combine all of the ingredients in a saucepot and boil for about 15 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour to let the seeds absorb the vinegar and sugar. Puree if you like, or keep it grainy for texture. Mustard will last several months refrigerated.

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cooking BASICS

MAKING BREAD by Dav i d N o r m a n • P h oto g ra p h y by A n dy Sa m s

any years ago, after re-

ing by volume. Filtered or bottled

turning to college from

water (not distilled) is best, but if

a year abroad, I came

you have clean-tasting, not highly chlorinated tap water, that’s fine.

across a copy of Beard on Bread— a small tome on bread-making by

Step one is measuring out the

James Beard. In an effort to sati-

dry ingredients. If you’re weigh-

ate cravings for the multitude of

ing the ingredients, there is no

breads I had enjoyed while in Mu-

need to sift them. If measuring by

nich, I bought the book (and later a

volume, use a separate scoop and

beer-making kit, but that’s another

aerate (fluff it up a bit) the flour,

article) and delved into kneading,

then scoop it into a dry measuring cup and level it off with a knife

raising and shaping the loaves he outlined. After college, I turned that hobby into a job, which soon

or scraper. Salt and yeast should be level spoonfuls, too. Com-

realized itself as a career—one that has taken me many places.

bine the flour, salt and instant yeast in a large bowl—stirring it

Stints in Minneapolis and Seattle (at Grand Central Bakery) led

around with your hand.

me to New York City, where I helped open TriBakery, taught at

Next, measure the water. It should be a cool room tempera-

the French Culinary Institute and then became the head baker

ture, so if your kitchen is hot, put a little bit of ice in the water

at Bouley Bakery. I am now happily leading the production of

to chill it down. In a very cold room, use a little bit of warmer

beautiful loaves of a variety of breads at Easy Tiger Bake Shop

water. Ideally, the dough should be between 72 and 75 degrees

and Beer Garden (yes, there’s a bit of full circle there) in Austin,

when finished with the kneading. While many home baking rec-

where I am also a partner.

ipes instruct you to add more or less flour to adjust the consis-

Though I certainly had some success with Beard’s recipes,

tency of the dough, the better variable is the water. Since flour

I’ve also picked up some tricks and techniques along the way.

absorbs water differently depending on variety, growing condi-

First, it’s important to remember that bread is about ratios. In

tions, storage and age, it’s best to keep the flour in the correct

fact, bakers refer to formulas rather than recipes. Understand-

ratio to the salt and yeast. Measure the water according to the

ing how the ingredients work together, and in what basic pro-

recipe, but then pour four ounces into another cup.

portions, is what allows bakers to manipulate the ratios and

Perhaps where I stray the furthest from what I first learned

produce a nearly endless variety of breads from very basic

from the beautiful, hand-drawn illustrations in Beard on Bread

building blocks. It’s also very helpful to have a kitchen scale for

is the kneading technique. Now, when I make bread by hand, I

bread-making, as all of a baker’s ratios are set by weight. I have

use a technique somewhere between Beard’s traditional “push,

included both the weight and the volume measurements here,

fold and turn” kneading and the now-popular “no-knead” meth-

but consider investing in a digital scale (usually around $25).

ods. What I do is an adaptation of a very old method used by

I use unbleached, all-purpose flour (King Arthur Flour is my

bakers making batches that were too large to knead extensive-

favorite). Bread flour is okay, but tends to be a bit too strong. I

ly by hand. Once the ingredients are combined, the dough is

also like to use instant yeast—found in one-pound pouches in

stretched and folded to start the process, then allowed to rest. A

many grocery stores. It’s a lot of yeast, but it will keep for at least

series of three or four folds completes the development of the

a year in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator. However,

gluten and produces a dough with good structure. And finally,

the yeast sold as “rapid rise” (not “active dry”) in small packets

using a starter dough made the day before will add flavor to the

is the same yeast. Just ignore the packet instructions and mea-

loaf and improve the texture. Once the first batch is made, save

sure according to my recipe. The salt in the recipe is kosher

and freeze a portion of the dough to use as the starter for the

salt, but any salt can be substituted by equal weight, though

next batch.

you may want to use a little less if using a fine salt and measur38

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Let’s make bread!

MAKING BREAD WITH DAVID NORMAN Makes 1 large loaf with small amount of dough reserved for future starter For the starter dough (made 1 day in advance): ¾ c. (90 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour ½ t. (2 g.) kosher salt ¹/8 t. (½ g.) instant yeast ¹/³ c. (80 ml.) water

For the dough: 3¼ c. (390 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour 2½ t. (13 g.) kosher salt ½ t. (2 g.) instant yeast Starter dough from the day before 1–1¼ c. (236–296 ml.) water, divided Cornmeal, for baking Between 18 and 24 hours before you want to bake the loaf, combine the dry ingredients for the starter dough in a medium bowl. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the water. Pull the flour gradually into the center with your fingers until a loose, wet, shaggy dough is formed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for about 1 hour, then place in the refrigerator overnight.

Combine the dry ingredients for the dough in a large mixing bowl. Divide the fermented starter dough into 4 or 5 pieces and add them to the dry ingredients. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add 1 cup of the water. Begin by pulling small amounts of flour into the water and mixing with your hands. As the dough starts to get thicker, squeeze it through your hands and work the water into all of the flour—also working the starter dough into the mix. If the mixture is too dry and stiff, add some of the reserved water—squeezing it into the dough. Then, start working from one side of the bowl to the other, squeezing the dough through both hands while also pulling and stretching it. Add more water, if needed, to make a pliable, moist dough.

After 2 or 3 passes from one side of the bowl to the other, turn the dough onto a lightly floured solid surface. Beginning on the side closest to you, pull the dough toward you, stretch it and fold it back on itself. Keep grabbing the dough a little closer to the opposite edge each time—pulling and stretching toward yourself, then folding back over the top. When finished moving across the surface, scrape up the dough with a dough scraper and rotate it 90 degrees. Repeat this process several times until the dough starts to smooth out (it won’t be as completely smooth as in traditional kneading).

C. C.

Bring the dough together into a ball, place it back into the bowl, cover with a damp towel and let it rest for 15 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface again and press out slightly into a rough square shape. Grab the edge closest to you, lift it and give it a gentle stretch then fold it about two-thirds of the way away from you. Grab the edge furthest from you, lift and gently stretch it then fold it toward you about two-thirds of the way over the first fold. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat with 2 more folds—1 away from you and 1 toward you. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with the damp towel and let it rest for 15 more minutes. Repeat the folding and resting process 2 or 3 more times to continue to develop the dough. Each time, you’ll notice how it becomes smoother, stronger and more elastic. When you can form a fairly tight ball with the dough without it ripping, the dough is well developed. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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Place the dough back in the bowl and cover with towel and let the dough ferment (rise) for 1 to 1 ½ hours. It should almost double in size, but catch it before it starts to deflate. Preheat the oven to 500°—preferably with a baking stone centered on the shelf. Also place an empty, shallow metal cake pan on the rack below for making steam. Turn out the dough onto an un-floured surface and divide it in half for 2 loaves or leave it whole for a larger loaf. You can also take about one-fourth of the dough and put it in a plastic freezer bag, freeze it and use it in place of the starter dough the next time you want to bake this bread. Just defrost it in the bag and then add to your final dough as above. To shape the loaf (or loaves), gently stretch the dough into a rectangle, patting out any large air bubbles. Fold the close edge away from you about two-thirds of the way up and pat gently. Fold the far edge over that fold about two-thirds of the way toward you. Then, starting at the far edge, fold the dough all the way toward you so that it meets the near edge and fold the dough in half. Use the heel of your hand to press and seal this seam. Roll the dough into a log, then roll the log a few times back and forth to make it a rounded cylinder. You can angle your hands as you roll to taper the ends of the loaf. Place the loaf on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal. If you’re using a baking stone, use an upside-down baking sheet or one that has no sides. Cover the loaf with a damp towel and let rise for 30 minutes to 1 hour—it should almost double in size. To test if it’s ready to bake, gently poke the loaf with your index finger. If it springs back quickly, then give it more time. If it springs back slowly, it’s perfect. If it doesn’t spring back at all, remember to check earlier next time, as it has probably gone a little over (if the loaf doesn’t completely deflate when touched or scored, go ahead and bake a slightly over-proofed loaf—just handle it extra gently and score it with shallow cuts. If it deflates completely, start over).

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oven and shut the oven door as quickly as you can. This will make some steam to provide moisture that allows the loaf to rise more evenly in the oven. Also, slash the top of the loaf with a sharp knife or razor blade to help it to rise evenly in the oven. If using a baking stone, either slide the loaf directly off of the baking sheet onto the stone, or transfer it to a peel first and then slide it onto the stone. Either way, try to open and close the oven door as quickly as possible to keep as much of the steam as possible in the oven. If you’re not using a baking stone, simply put the slashed loaf on a baking sheet into the oven. After about 10 minutes, reduce the temperature to 450° and continue baking for 20 more minutes. Test the loaf by taking it out of the oven and tapping on the bottom. If it sounds hollow, it’s done; if not return it to the oven for 5 or 10 more minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack.

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cooking BASICS

Making MEATLESS MEALS by W i l l Pac kwo o d • P h oto g ra p h y by J e n n a N o e l

ome of you may know me and you might be asking yourself, Why would he be writing about vegetarian dishes? I’m not, really. We all know the health benefits

of eating a diet rich in fruits, vegetables, whole grains and lean proteins; however, this isn’t about that either. Instead, I want to talk about the idea of truly celebrating seasonal foods and not missing what’s not on the plate. In the not-so-distant past, walking the produce section of most grocery stores revealed the usual suspects with very few new or different choices. We consumed the same handful of vegetables and fruits day after day. Today, though, we have stores bursting with product: tropical fruits with names we can’t pronounce, Asian greens and herbs we’ve never imagined, local and seasonal heirloom varieties we haven’t seen since those summers at our grandparents’ houses and numerous farmers markets scattered around almost every city. We are fortunate to have the communities of farmers and growers providing us with these choices here in Central Texas. And the grains! Next time you’re at the market, walk through the bulk section and buy a pound of a grain you’ve never tasted or haven’t thought of since that great dinner at a high-end restaurant. Grains are high in protein, a great source of fiber and nutrients and have a nutty flavor and satisfying bite. Several popular grain combinations can provide a sensory-satisfying and nutrient-dense component to a meatless meal—quinoa and kasha, barley and brown rice, wheat berries and wild rice, to name a few. And, OK…meat is great. I love meat and seafood and all types of tasty animal parts, but sometimes the idea of buying, cooking and eating meat just seems a little overwhelming to me. Besides, celebrating fresh, seasonal artichokes or asparagus or summer squashes and tomatoes or pumpkin or fava beans is fun!

An easy way to have a satisfying, meatless meal is to

Use what’s available. Too many times, meatless meals

break it up into courses. Make a small portion of a light

are an afterthought for the people eating or preparing them.

risotto or pasta with little sweet tomatoes, mint and grated

Meatless meals shouldn’t be a plate of all the other vegeta-

local sheep’s milk cheese. For a second course, think quick-

ble dishes offered at a restaurant or an all-too-well-known

braised okra and tomatoes with quinoa and kasha. And fin-

preparation replacing the chicken with tofu. The idea is to

ish the meal with fresh figs, local honey, toasted pecans and

shop with a few things in mind: what’s fresh, what looks

some more of the local sheep’s milk cheese.

good and what sounds good. Buy fresh fruits, vegetables and

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The idea is to shop with a few things in mind: what’s fresh, what looks good and what sounds good. Buy fresh fruits, vegetables and whole grains; don’t be afraid to experiment and combine different textures and temperatures. whole grains; don’t be afraid to experiment and combine different textures and temperatures. Celebrate the foods you love when they’re in season, and avoid them out of season. With the abundance of product and the amount of information available to us, enjoying seasonal produce and grains is easier than ever. I hope you’ll experiment with a few meatless meals a week, a month or even—baby steps—a few times a year. Buon appetito!

Pumpkin, Apricot and Prune Tagine Serves 4 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium white onion, peeled and sliced 2 shallots, peeled and sliced Salt and black pepper, to taste 1 t. saffron 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced 2 T. peeled and julienned fresh ginger 2 T. ras el hanout spice mix (available at high-end grocers) 4 c. peeled, de-seeded, 1-in. cubed pumpkin or butternut squash 1 c. dried apricots 1 c. prunes 1 t. fresh thyme leaves 1 c. water ¼ c. plus 2 T. flat-leaf parsley leaves, washed and chopped ¼ c. plus 2 T. cilantro leaves and stems, washed and chopped 1½ c. canned kidney beans, drained and rinsed 3 T. sliced almonds, toasted In a large tagine or nonreactive pot, heat the olive oil over a mediumhigh flame. Add the onion and shallots to the pot, season with a small amount of salt and pepper and stir to combine. Allow the onion and shallots to cook until translucent. Meanwhile, in a small, dry pan, toast the saffron over medium-low heat until very aromatic and reserve, Add the garlic and ginger to the onion and shallots, stir to combine and continue cooking for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the toasted saffron and ras el hanout and stir to combine. Add the pumpkin or squash, dried fruits, thyme, water and ¼ cup each of the parsley and cilantro, along with salt and pepper to taste and stir to combine. Bring the tagine to a boil and immediately reduce the heat to a low simmer. Cover the pot and allow to simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin or squash is tender. Once tender, add the kidney beans, stir to combine, adjust the seasoning and allow to simmer 3 to 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and garnish with the reserved parsley and cilantro and the toasted almonds. Serve the tagine with plain couscous, rice or flatbread.

Artichokes à la Barigoule Serves 4 4 T. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 small white onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 medium carrot, peeled, trimmed and thinly sliced 1 small leek, split, washed and thinly sliced 1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced Salt and pepper, to taste 3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 8 baby artichokes, trimmed, tough petals removed, halved, then reserved in acidulated water* 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs fresh thyme Dry white wine, as needed 2 T. chopped fresh basil leaves 2 T. chopped fennel fronds To make acidulated water, fill a large bowl with water and squeeze one * or two lemons into it. Prepare in advance of trimming artichokes.

In a medium pot, heat half the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, leek and fennel to the pot and stir to combine. Season the vegetables with a small amount of salt and pepper and allow to sweat until the onion is translucent—about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and artichokes to the vegetables and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper and allow to cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the bay leaves, thyme and enough white wine to just cover the mixture. Bring the mixture to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and cover the pot with a tight lid. Braise the artichokes until fork-tender—10 to 12 minutes. Place the artichokes on a serving plate, place the pot back over medium-high heat and reduce the liquid by two-thirds. Off the heat, stir in the remaining olive oil and adjust the seasoning. Sauce the artichokes with the cooking liquid and garnish with the basil and fennel fronds. Serve with braised lentils and a fresh, crunchy baguette.

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Quinoa-Kasha Salad with Chickpeas, Zucchini, Grape Tomatoes, Lemon and Herbs Serves 4

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For the quinoa: 1 c. quinoa 1¾ c. water Salt, to taste

For the kasha: 2 c. water Salt, to taste 1 c. kasha

For the salad: 3 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic 2 small zucchini, washed and diced Salt and black pepper, to taste 1½ c. grape tomatoes, washed, halved and seeded 3 c. cooked quinoa 3 c. cooked kasha

1½ c. canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed Zest from 1 lemon, minced Juice from 1 lemon ¼ c. flat-leaf parsley, washed and chopped ¼ c. fresh mint (peppermint, if available), washed and chopped 2 T. fresh oregano, washed and chopped

Make the quinoa: Pour the quinoa into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse thoroughly with cool running water for 45 seconds to 1 minute, or until the water runs clear. In a pot with a tight-fitting lid, combine the washed quinoa, water and a small amount of salt. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, place the lid on the pot and allow to simmer for 15 minutes. After the quinoa has cooked for 15 minutes, remove the pot from the heat. Allow the quinoa to rest for an additional 10 minutes without removing the lid. When the quinoa has rested for 10 minutes, remove the lid, lightly fluff using a fork and reserve at room temperature or chill. Make the kasha: In a small pot, bring the water and salt to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, pour the kasha into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse thoroughly with cool running water for 45 seconds to 1 minute. Leave the kasha in the strainer and allow to drain for a few minutes. Add the kasha to the boiling water, immediately reduce the heat to low and cover with a lid. Cook on low for 10 minutes then remove the pot from the heat and allow to rest, covered, for 15 minutes. After the kasha has rested, remove the lid, fluff with a fork and reserve either chilled or at room temperature. Make the salad: In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over a mediumhigh flame. Add the garlic and allow to brown evenly. Remove the garlic and discard. Add the zucchini to the pan, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat evenly. Allow the zucchini to cook until tender, about 3-5 minutes, tossing frequently. Add the tomatoes and toss to combine. Cook the zucchini-tomato mixture for 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Gently fold everything together and season with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

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COOKS! 2013

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entertaining at HOME

by T e r ry T h o m pso n -A n d e rso n a n d Russ K a n e â&#x20AC;˘ A rt by Ba m b i E d lu n d

A Holiday Food and Texas Wine Pairing

he Feast of the Seven Fishes is an Italian-American tradition based on the Christmas Eve celebration of the Vigilia di Natale (the wait, or vigil, for the midnight birth

of Jesus) in Italy. The feast is observed as a festive, though rev-

erent gathering distinguished by the abstinence from meat and

FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES Menu All recipes except the dessert serve 6; dessert serves 10

Tres Palacios Bay Crab Appetizer

spotlighted by a meal of seven or more servings of fish and other

Spicy Boiled Shrimp with Jalapeño Rémoulade

seafood offerings. Of course, being a celebratory Italian meal,

Brown-Butter Oysters with Beet and Goat Cheese Salad

wine is often involved. How, or why, the celebration became known as the Feast of the Seven Fishes is subject to speculation. Some believe the number seven is relevant for its biblical significance: seven is the most repeated number in the Bible (appearing over 700 times), there are seven sacraments of the Catholic Church and there are seven virtues. Other theories for the name point to the seven hills surrounding Rome and even the sum of the biblical num-

Cumin-Fried Squid on Red-Chili Aioli with Pico De Gallo Oyster Pan Roast • Crawfish Dauphine Pan-Seared Grouper in Tomato Broth with Crisp Garlic, Shrimp and Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Pistachio Tiramisu

ber for divinity (three) combined with the number representing Earth (four). Whatever the origin of the feast’s name, though, the meal—with its abundance of seafood delicacies cooked or fried in olive oil accompanied by rich sauces and fine aromatic spices—provides a uniquely diverse culinary opportunity. “When I talked to my pop, he said that on Christmas Eve the family’s festivities always included baccalà [salted cod cooked in a sauce of tomato, basil and garlic] and smelt with other fishes, served with lots of ravioli,” says Greg Bruni, vice president and executive winemaker at Llano Estacado Winery. “I remember that Mama would always set an extra plate of food out for the Gesù Bambino (Baby Jesus). It was always a joyous occasion.” As Italians immigrated to different coastal locales in the U.S., the feast took on new dimensions to incorporate whatever the nearby waters provided. For example, the turn of the 20th century saw a flood of Sicilians settling in Galveston and the lower Brazos Valley and northern Italians moving farther inland. The bountiful Gulf Coast waters, with their delicious grouper, calamari, blue crabs, shrimp, briny oysters and more, would become the new palette for their feasts. In honor of the season, we’ve created a Texas-Style Feast of the Seven Fishes menu and paired each course with a Texas wine. Texas

wine

growers

and

winemakers

have now embraced our hot sunny clime (and perhaps their inner Italian), and the wine country is now a mecca of Mediterranean wine production representing grapes grown locally, but originating from Italy, Spain, Sardinia, Portugal and southern France. Our menu follows the concept known the world over wherever locavores and locapours meet: what grows together, goes together, especially on the splendid table of a holiday celebration.

Tres Palacios Bay Crab Appetizer with Mango and Pineapple Pico de Gallo Fresh Gulf blue crabmeat, with its sweet, faintly marine taste, is a local treasure. This starter accents the rich, savory crab with tart and mildly spicy nuances. The key to pairing this dish is to pay attention to the tropical fruit and choose a wine with sparkle, moderate alcohol and crisp acidity. We suggest William Chris Vineyards Mary Ruth, an orange muscat and chenin blanc blend grown on the Texas High Plains at Lost Draw Vineyards and John Dale Vineyards in Brownfield. The tropical citrus aromas of orange muscat are sweet and intoxicating, but this blend combines sultry citrus notes with the sharp acidity of chenin blanc. 1 large mango, peeled, cut into ¼-in. dice 2 serrano chilies, seeds and veins removed, minced ¹/³ c. ¼-in. diced red onion ½ c. ¼-in. diced roasted red bell pepper ²/³ c. ¼-in. diced fresh pineapple 2 heaping T. finely chopped cilantro 2 T. Texas extra-virgin olive oil

¼ t. medium-hot chili powder ¼ t. ground cumin Kosher salt, to taste Juice of 1 large lime 1 lb. Gulf jumbo lump crabmeat, chilled Shredded romaine lettuce 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and sliced into 8 wedges Good quality white corn tortilla chips

To make the pico de gallo, combine the mango, serrano chilies, red onion, roasted red bell pepper and pineapple in a medium bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk together the cilantro, olive oil, chili powder, cumin, salt and lime juice and blend well. Pour the dressing over the mango mix and toss to moisten well. Refrigerate until ready to use. Meanwhile, carefully pick through the crabmeat to remove any bits of shell or cartilage (take care not to break up the beautiful lumps). Line a large platter with shredded lettuce. Mound the crabmeat in the center of the platter and arrange the avocado wedges and corn chips around the mound. Spoon the pico de gallo over and around the crabmeat. Add a large spoon or fork for self-serve.

Spicy Boiled Shrimp

Brown-Butter Oysters

with Jalapeño Rémoulade

with Beet and Goat Cheese Salad

This dish offers an interesting flavor profile built on sweet shrimp meat, the heat of the jalapeño and a creamy sauce. Taking the lead from the red-pink shrimp, we’ve paired it with a red wine: Brennan Vineyards Buffalo Roam. It’s a lighter Rhône-style red blend with juicy fruit, floral and spicy aromas and, most importantly, soft tannins with a hint of dry Comanche County soil. Crispness and medium body help manage the creaminess of the sauce without overpowering the delicate shrimp taste. To satisfy a white wine craving though, the McPherson Cellars Albariño, Castaño Prado Vineyards, also provides an admirable match with bright and assertive pear and citrus character.

This dish is a luscious experience combining the opulence and finesse of mineral-rich oysters with the rich, fatty, nutty qualities of butter and cheese. Pedernales Cellars Viognier Reserve pairs perfectly. It has a clarity of peach fruit and florals that benefits from the light French oak aging, a creamy mouthfeel and toasty-nutty aromas that harmonize with similar characteristics in the dish.

For the shrimp: ¼ c. cayenne ¹/³ c. kosher salt 3 large lemons, quartered 1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 lbs. large shrimp, peeled and deveined Large bowl of ice water mixed with ½ c. kosher salt or fine sea salt

For the rémoulade: 2 large cloves garlic, peeled 3 T. minced flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish 2 large jalapeños, chopped 2 t. lemon zest 2 anchovy fillets, minced 2 T. catsup, preferably homemade (recipe on p. 34)

1 T. whole-grain mustard 1 t. Champagne vinegar 2 T. dry sherry 1 c. mayonnaise, preferably homemade (recipe on p. 33) ½ t. kosher salt, or to taste 1 t. freshly ground black pepper Baby romaine lettuce leaves White corn tortilla chips

Fill a heavy-bottomed 8-quart soup pot two-thirds full with water. Add the cayenne pepper, salt, lemons and onion. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes to develop a bold, spicy court bouillon (flavorful poaching liquid). Be sure to turn on the vent hood over the stove as the mixture is quite spicy and tends to cause sneezing! Add the shrimp and stir to mix into the broth. Cook just until the shrimp turn a rich coral pink—about 3 to 5 minutes. Drain into a colander then immediately plunge the shrimp into the salted ice water to stop the cooking process. (The salted water also sweetens the taste of the shrimp.) When the shrimp are completely chilled, drain and pat dry using paper towels, then refrigerate until ready to serve. To make the jalapeño rémoulade, mince the garlic cloves in the food processor, then scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and process until smooth and well blended. Turn out into a large bowl and toss with the chilled shrimp. Cover tightly and refrigerate until chilled. For service, insert a serving spoon into the bowl and place it on the table. Let diners self serve into large, stemmed margarita-style glasses filled with some of the baby romaine leaves and two tortilla chips each.

COOKS! 2013

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

For the beets and vinaigrette: Texas extra-virgin olive oil 4 large shallots, chopped 3 dried chiles de árbol 1½-in. section fresh ginger root, peeled, thinly sliced and smashed 1 c. soy sauce ¼ c. real maple syrup

2 qt. chicken stock, preferably homemade ¹/³ c. light brown sugar ½ c. dry sherry 5 medium-size red beets, washed and trimmed 5 medium-size golden beets, washed and trimmed

For the salad: ¹/³ c. red wine vinegar ¾ t. kosher salt 1 t. freshly ground black pepper 1½ t. minced fresh thyme 1½ t. snipped fresh chives 1½ t minced fresh parsley 1½ T. Dijon mustard ²/³ c. roasting liquid from cooked beets

1½ c. Texas extra-virgin olive oil Mixed romaine, radicchio, butter lettuce and arugula 4 oz. plain, mild goat cheese, shaped into small rounds using a melon baller 5 slices artisan peppered bacon, cooked until crisp then drained and crumbled

For the brown-butter oysters: 1 2 shucked Texas Gulf oysters and their liquor ¾ c. unsalted butter 1 t. Texas Pete Hot Sauce 1½ t. minced lemon zest

1 heaping T. minced parsley ½ t. kosher salt ½ c. unseasoned bread crumbs 2 T. grated Romano cheese Lemon wedges, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 375° and heat a glaze of olive oil in a large braising pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the shallots, chilies and sliced ginger root until the ginger is browned—about 5 minutes. Add the soy sauce, maple syrup, chicken stock, brown sugar, sherry and beets and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover and roast in the preheated oven until beets are soft—about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Set aside until cool. When the beets are cool enough to handle, drain them—reserving ²/³ cup of the roasting liquid. Strain the reserved liquid and set aside. Peel the beets, cut them into bitesize pieces then refrigerate until chilled. Meanwhile, combine the red wine vinegar, salt, pepper, thyme, chives, parsley, mustard and reserved roasting liquid in the work bowl of a highspeed blender and blend until very smooth. With the machine running, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream until all has been added. Blend an additional 15 to 20 seconds to form a strong

emulsion. Cover and refrigerate the vinaigrette until ready to use. Shake vigorously before using. After the beets are prepared and the salad dressing is made, preheat the broiler and position an oven rack 6 inches below the heat source. Arrange 12 metal or porcelain Chinese soup spoons on a baking sheet and place one oyster in each spoon along with a little of the oyster liquor. Set aside. Combine the butter, hot sauce, lemon zest, parsley and salt in a small saucepan and cook to melt the butter. Stir in the bread crumbs and cheese—blending well. Divide the buttery crumb mixture between the oysters, topping each with a little pile. Place the baking sheet under the preheated broiler and cook for 4 minutes, or until the topping is golden brown and bubbly. To assemble the dish, combine the greens and toss to blend well. Arrange the greens in the center of a large platter and drizzle with the roasted beet vinaigrette. Scatter pieces of roasted beets, balls of the goat cheese and bits of the crumbled bacon on top of the salad. Place the oysters in a circle around the salad. Serve with small tongs.

BUYING TIPS When buying shucked oysters in their liquor, the flavorful liquid inside their shells, make sure they’re fresh. They should be plump, pearly and translucent and light tan in color—not dull and whitish. The liquor should be clear and viscous—if it’s cloudy and thin the oysters are not fresh. When buying peeled crawfish tails, insist on those harvested from Texas or Louisiana. Avoid crawfish tails from China as they have a very musky, to downright unpleasant, taste. And don’t wash the peeled crawfish tails! The orange substance spread on the tails is the delicious fat from the heads of the crawfish—it adds an important flavor element to the dish. The tasty fat is the reason that real crawfish lovers suck the heads of fresh boiled crawfish. All Texas wines featured in this article are Texas appellation, meaning that they are made from 75 percent or more Texas-grown grapes. These wines are available at the wineries, many of which offer online sales and shipping. Some are distributed and found in local markets and wine stores, as well as Spec’s Wines, Spirits and Finer Foods across the state. Important note: please be advised that wines from Texas wineries that display “For Sale in Texas Only” on their labels are not generally made from locally grown Texas grapes.

Cumin-Fried Squid on Red-Chili Aioli with Pico de Gallo This calamari, with the citrusy-cum-earthy flavor of cumin combined with the zing from the sauce, is not the standard fare. The wine pairing follows the medium intensity of the dish that goes with either red or white wines. The Duchman Family Winery Dolcetto provides medium body, red fruit, dry earth and soft, silky texture. In a different way, the McPherson Cellars Roussanne hits the rich, creamy sauce broadside with bright and refreshing lemony notes and a minerality cloaked below. For the aioli: 3 large cloves garlic, peeled 2 egg yolks 1 T. whole-grain mustard 1 t. salt ½ t. ground cumin

½ t. cayenne 2 T. red wine vinegar 1¼ c. canola oil ¼ c. Texas extra-virgin olive oil ½ c. whipping cream

For the pico de gallo: 5 large Roma tomatoes, cut into ¼-in. dice ½ small white onion, cut into ¼-in. dice 2 serrano chilies, seeds and veins removed, minced 2 heaping T. minced cilantro leaves Juice of 2 large limes Salt, to taste For the calamari: 2 lbs. squid (tubes and tentacles), cleaned 6 c. all-purpose flour seasoned with 2 t. each of cayenne, salt, black pepper, granulated garlic, onion powder and paprika Egg wash made from 4 eggs whisked into 6 c. whole milk 6 c. panko bread crumbs, seasoned with 2 T. ground cumin and 1 T. fine sea salt Canola oil for deep-frying, heated to 350° Shredded romaine lettuce

In the work bowl of food processor fitted with a steel blade, mince the garlic cloves. Scrape down the sides of work bowl and add the egg yolks, mustard, salt, cumin, cayenne and vinegar, and process until the mixture is thickened and smooth—about 2 minutes. Combine the canola and olive oils. With the processor running, add the combined oils in a slow, steady stream through the feed tube to form a smooth aioli. After all of the oil has been added, process an additional 15 to 20 seconds. Add the whipping cream and process just to blend. Refrigerate until ready to use, but do not keep longer than 3 days. Meanwhile, combine the tomatoes, onion, chilies, cilantro and lime juice in a small bowl and blend well. Taste for salt and adjust, then refrigerate. Remove the clear cartilage from the tubes of the squid (if the seafood market has not already removed them), then remove the “beaks” from the center of the tentacles. Slice the tubes into ½-inch rings then pat the rings and tentacles dry using paper towels. Toss the squid first in the seasoned flour—coating well and shaking off excess flour. Next, drop the pieces into the egg wash and coat well. Dredge the squid in the seasoned panko bread crumbs, coat well then shake off all excess crumbs. Fry the squid in batches in the preheated oil until golden brown—taking care not to crowd the oil. Drain each batch on a wire rack set over a baking sheet until all have been fried. To serve, spoon the red-chili aioli evenly onto a large platter. Place a nest of shredded lettuce in the center of the plate and top the lettuce with a portion of the pico de gallo. Scatter the fried squid around the plate and serve immediately. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2013

Oyster Pan Roast

Crawfish Dauphine

This is one of our favorite ways to prepare oysters in those chilly months with an “r” when they’re at their salty best. It’s hearty enough to serve as a main dish—perhaps with an added salad—and oh so satisfying to oyster lovers. After the oysters have been eaten, the slice of toasted French bread is used to sop up the rich sauce remaining in the dish, and is almost as good as the oysters themselves! The wine pairing matches the mild intensity of the oysters while wielding natural acidity that cuts through the fat and exposes still more of the oyster flavor. Brennan Vineyards 2012 Lily—a white Rhône-style blend of roussanne, viognier and grenache blanc that features grapes from both Texas High Plains Bingham Family Vineyards and Reddy Vineyards—brings herbal and floral notes that float over the dish and add unique complexity to the presentation.

Texans have developed a love for mudbugs—a favorite nickname for crawfish. Many rice farmers in the eastern coastal regions of Texas flood their fields after harvest and turn the land into crawfish ponds as an adjunct income. This easy recipe features the humble crawfish as the flavor base for a delicious dish with multidimensional flavors. Enhanced by the crawfish “fat,” mushrooms, thyme and rich sauce, it’s the spiciest in our feast, and frankly, this piquant sauce needs a quencher for a perfect match in the form of Messina Hof Winery Riesling (Father and Son Cuvee) with its wondrous residual sugar, crisp acidity and low alcohol. Honeyed lemony floral notes match the flavor intensity and body of the sauce while still allowing the delicate crawfish flavors to emerge.

For the oysters: 36 shucked Gulf oysters and their liquor ¼ c. unsalted butter, melted 1 c. dried bread crumbs ½ c. grated Parmesan cheese Kosher salt, to taste ¼ c. unsalted butter 2 large shallots, minced 4 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced

2 T. minced flat-leaf parsley ½ t. minced fresh rosemary 1 t. crushed red pepper flakes ½ t. freshly ground black pepper 1½ qt. whipping cream blended with the liquor from the oysters 2 T. Pernod, or substitute another anise-based liqueur 1 T. Worcestershire sauce Kosher salt, to taste

For the toast garnish: 6 slices French bread, cut on the bias, 1 in. thick Melted unsalted butter Kosher salt Preheat the oven to 450°. Arrange 6 individual gratin dishes on baking sheets; set aside. Drain the oysters in a fine-mesh strainer, capturing the liquor in a bowl below, and set both aside. In a small bowl, combine the melted butter, bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese and toss to blend well. Season to taste with salt and set aside. Melt the additional 4 tablespoons of butter in a heavy-bottomed, deep-sided 12-inch skillet over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the shallots, green onions, parsley, rosemary, red pepper flakes and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the shallots and green onions are wilted and transparent—about 7 minutes. Add the whipping cream, oyster liquor mixture, Pernod and Worcestershire. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture reduces and thickens—about 10 minutes. Add salt, to taste. While the sauce is reducing, place 6 of the oysters in each of the gratin dishes and make the toast garnish. Butter one side of each French bread slice and lightly salt. Toast the bread slices under the broiler until light golden brown and crisp. Pour a portion of the sauce over the oysters in each dish and top with a scattering of the bread crumb-Parmesan mixture—covering the entire surface of the dish. Place the baking sheets in the preheated oven and bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or just until the oysters begin to curl at the edges and the topping is browned and bubbly. Do not overcook—the dishes should still be quite liquidy. Remove from the oven and place a toasted bread slice on top of each gratin dish. Place the gratin dishes on plates and serve hot. 56

COOKS! 2013

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

½ c. butter 2 T. canola oil 1 lb. tiny button mushrooms, whole, or regular mushrooms cut into quarters 3 shallots, finely chopped 2 roasted, peeled and seeded red bell peppers, cut into ½-in. dice 1 large celery stalk, cut into ½-in. dice 2 T. minced flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish 1 t. minced fresh thyme 1 t. cayenne, or to taste 3 c. seafood stock, or stock made from shrimp bouillon cubes 1 qt. whipping cream 2 lb. cooked and peeled crawfish tails with fat 2 T. Pernod, or substitute another anise-based liqueur Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Beurre manié made from ½ c. softened unsalted butter blended well in a food processor with ½ c. all-purpose flour 1½ lb. penne rigate pasta, cooked al dente and drained Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed, deep-sided 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the canola oil and heat. When the oil mixture is hot, add the mushrooms and shallots. Cook until the mushroom liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are lightly browned—about 10 minutes. Add the red bell peppers, celery, parsley, thyme and cayenne and stir well to blend. Cook, stirring often, until the celery is wilted—about 5 minutes. Add the stock and stir to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook to reduce the liquid by half. Stir in the whipping cream, crawfish tails and Pernod, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer for about 15 minutes, then bring to a boil. Slowly stir in small bits of the beurre manié—whisking until each addition is totally incorporated before adding more—until desired thickness is attained. The sauce should be slightly thickened but still pourable—like a cream soup. To serve, place the pasta in a large bowl and ladle the crawfish mixture over the top. Garnish with a scattering of minced parsley and serve hot.

Pan-Seared Grouper in Tomato Broth with Crisp Garlic, Shrimp and Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts This dish is pure Texas terroir featuring delicious Gulf Coast grouper, an often-underutilized fish, in a broth of Texas tomatoes flavored with Texas sangiovese. It makes a dramatic center-stage entrée in our Texas feast! In the spirit of the traditional baccalà (salted cod in a sauce of tomato, basil and garlic) found on most Feast of the Seven Fishes tables, this dish offers a full-flavored fish in an opulent tomato sauce with a garlicshrimp topping and the bitter edge of Brussels sprouts, and boldly says I deserve a substantial red wine, please! Perissos Vineyard and Winery Aglianico, grown in the Central Texas granitic soil of the estate vineyard near Burnet, provides flavor intensity, lush dark-fruit flavor and a tannic “grip” that marries nicely with the bitterness of the sprouts. If your preparation forgoes this vegetable in lieu of a less-assertive one, Llano Estacado Winery Montepulciano (a limited bottling) offers a luscious grapey experience, speaks from its roots in the rich, red High Plains soil of Reddy Vineyards and exudes juicy red plum and soft, smooth tannins. For the tomato broth: 16 ripe, homegrown tomatoes (preferably San Marzano or Roma), sliced in half lengthwise ¼ c. Texas extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Raw sugar Kosher salt 9 large cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 1 medium yellow onion, chopped

¹/³ c. minced fresh basil 2 t. minced winter savory 6 c. chicken broth, preferably homemade 2 heaping T. tomato paste ½ c. Texas sangiovese Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ c. whipping cream ¹/³ c. grated Parmesan cheese

For the crisp garlic and shrimp topping: 1 c. Texas extra-virgin olive oil 10 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced very thinly lengthwise 24 medium-size shrimp, peeled, deveined and seasoned with salt and black pepper

1 c. bread crumbs made from toasted ciabatta bread 2 t. minced lemon zest 2 t. minced fresh basil 1 T. minced flat-leaf parsley ¹/³ c. grated Parmesan cheese

For the Brussels sprouts: 1 lb. fresh Brussels sprouts 1 medium yellow onion, cut into ½-in. dice

1 large clove garlic, minced 2 T. Texas extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the grouper: 1 c. Texas extra-virgin olive oil 6 pieces grouper fillet, 4–5 oz. each, skinned All-purpose flour seasoned with salt, black pepper and cayenne For the tomato broth: Preheat the oven to 400°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and arrange the tomatoes, cut-side up. Lightly drizzle them with a bit of olive oil, then very lightly scatter on the raw sugar and kosher salt. Roast the tomatoes in the preheated oven until the edges begin to caramelize—about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. In a blender, combine the garlic, onion, basil, savory and a little of the chicken broth and puree until very smooth. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. When the roasted tomatoes have cooled, chop them into ½-inch dice and set aside. Heat the ¼ cup of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed, 4-quart saucepan over mediumhigh heat. When the oil is hot, add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce has darkened to almost a mahogany

color—about 2 minutes. (Do not allow it to burn.) Add the pureed mixture to the tomato paste and stir to blend. Sauté, stirring often, until the puree is thickened, then stir in the remaining chicken broth, the wine and the chopped tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is slightly thickened and reduced—about 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the cream and Parmesan cheese and blend well. Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Keep warm until ready to serve. For the topping: Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering hot, add the sliced garlic all at once. Immediately turn the heat to medium-low and cook the garlic until it’s light golden brown and crisp—about 10 to 15 minutes— while stirring constantly. Using a flat wire skimmer or slotted spoon, remove the garlic from the pan and drain on a paper towel-lined wire rack. Pour out half of the oil from the pan (the oil can be saved to make croutons or something else that requires a garlic-infused oil). Return the pan to medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the seasoned shrimp and sauté, tossing often, until they are lightly browned at the edges— about 5 minutes. Stir in the bread crumbs and cook for about 1 minute, or until the crumbs are golden brown. Strain the mixture through a very fine strainer to remove the oil, then transfer to a medium bowl. Add the garlic slices, lemon zest, basil, parsley and Parmesan cheese. Stir to blend well, coating the shrimp. Set aside to keep warm. For the Brussels sprouts: Preheat oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet with foil and set aside. Trim off the stems of the sprouts right at the base, but take care not to cut into the sprout or it will fall apart when cooked. Cut each sprout in half lengthwise. Combine the sprouts with the onion, garlic and olive oil in a bowl. Toss to blend well, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Turn out the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the sprouts are crisp-tender. For the fish: While the sprouts cook, you can prepare the fish. A word of caution about cooking grouper: while most fish begins to flake apart when overcooked, grouper becomes very tough, much like the sole of a tennis shoe, so be very careful not to overcook. To sear the grouper, heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Dredge the fish pieces in the seasoned flour to coat well and shake off the excess flour. When the oil is hot, lower the fish pieces, skinned-side down, into the skillet. Cook for about 3 minutes, or just until lightly browned on the bottom. Turn the fish and cook for about 3 minutes on the other side until browned and opaque throughout. Remove from the heat. To serve, ladle a portion of the tomato broth into six individual soup plates. Place a piece of the grouper in the center of each plate. Top each serving with 6 shrimp and a portion of the garlicky crumb mixture. Place the cooked sprouts into a serving bowl and serve the fish and sprouts at once.

Pistachio Tiramisu Every feast must end, but why not go out with a bit of panache and pistach in a tiramisu layered with lavish strokes of coffee, amaretto and chocolate. This sensual version was created by Jordan Muraglia, chef and coowner—along with his partner Richard Boprae—for their Fredericksburg bistro, Vaudeville. We’ve chosen a classic pairing with Messina Hof Winery Papa Paulo Port. This port-style wine has origins in the rare Lenoir grapes grown just inland from the Texas Gulf Coast near Bryan-College Station. However, it’s not fortified with brandy. Instead, it gains its 18 percent alcohol content through special yeast fermentation, thereby offering a soft-sweet experience adding black cherry and mocha to the mix. For the pistachio paste: 1 c. lightly toasted pistachios

½ c. honey 1 t. kosher salt

For the tiramisu: 10 egg yolks 1 c. plus 1 T. sugar, divided 3 c. mascarpone ½ c. pistachio paste 1 t. kosher salt ½ c. amaretto liqueur, divided 1 t. vanilla extract 4 c. whipping cream, divided

¾ c. freshly brewed espresso 5 Italian amaretti cookies, chopped ½ c. toasted pistachios, finely chopped 20 ladyfingers, cut in half lengthwise White chocolate shavings 10 martini glasses

Begin by making the pistachio paste. Place the nuts into the work bowl of a food processor and pulse to break them up. With the machine running, drizzle in the honey and process until the mixture comes together. Add the salt and pulse to blend well. Turn out into a bowl and set aside. Leftover paste will last in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks and it makes a wonderful base for a quick vinaigrette. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the egg yolks and ¾ cup of the sugar. Beat, starting on low, then increase to high speed until the mixture is light lemon yellow in color and thick and creamy—about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the mascarpone, pistachio paste, salt, 1 tablespoon of the amaretto and the vanilla extract. Beat just until smooth and well blended. Turn out into a large bowl. In a separate bowl, beat 3 cups of the whipping cream with ¼ cup of the sugar to form soft peaks. Fold the cream into the pistachio mixture in three batches, making sure the mousse is well blended, but not overbeaten. Meanwhile, beat the remaining cup of whipping cream with the tablespoon of sugar to stiff peaks. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Combine the espresso and the remaining amaretto in a small bowl. Combine the amaretti cookies and toasted pistachios in a small bowl. Fill martini glasses a third of the way full with the mousse. Dip the ladyfinger halves into the espresso mixture long enough to thoroughly soak up the mixture, but take care not to get them so soggy that they fall apart. Place four halves of the soaked ladyfingers vertically in each glass. Next, add a layer of the mixed amaretti cookies and chopped pistachios—reserving enough to use as garnish. Add another layer of the mousse—spreading it fairly evenly but taking care not to disturb the ladyfingers. Reserve some of the mousse for garnish. Refrigerate to chill well before serving. When ready to serve, place a small dollop of the reserved pistachio mousse on top of each glass, using a small ice cream scoop. Next, place a generous dollop of the reserved sweetened whipped cream over the scoop of mousse. Scatter some of the reserved cookie and chopped pistachio mixture over each serving, then arrange some of the white chocolate shavings on top. Serve at once. 58

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at HOME

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aking in the exquisite detail, subtle nuances and modern aesthetics of Eric Billig’s creations, it’s hard to believe that the local artisan has only labored in

craftsmanship for a little over a decade. His one-of-a-kind commissions can be found in an assortment of family kitchens and commercial work spaces throughout Austin, in places like Whip In, HausBar Farms and Thai Fresh. But before he ever began transforming liquid rock, glass, steel and other metals into functional works of art, the effervescent craftsman dabbled in a bounty of trades including carpentry, masonry, home remodeling and even hospitality work. “I used to run a food truck in Albuquerque called Cafe Bubbles that we eventually turned into a brick-and-mortar

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location,” Billig says. “We made these crazy wraps with cool, funky names like Schuman the Human, and it was a lot of fun while it lasted, but I was ready to get out of the restaurant industry after that experience. It’s incredibly hard, and I really respect and sympathize with anyone who goes into that work—especially here in Austin.” Putting his culinary career to bed, Billig made the onestate hop from New Mexico to Texas in 2001, prepared for both a professional and personal change of view. Shortly after his arrival, he began a labor-intensive career in carpentry and home remodeling alongside his two brothers. And

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though Billig wasn’t certain where the guild would take him, he gave himself up to the craftsman trade—relishing the pleasures of manipulating tangible materials and collaborating with passionate and appreciative clients. “It was great to get back to basics and learn and relearn little things like how to hammer properly and put things together and take them apart,” he says. “I really enjoyed forming relationships with clients most of all. To me, that’s the greatest joy in this line of work: bringing other people’s visions to life.” The change of scenery quickly brought additional blessings: six months after Billig moved to the city, he met his future wife, Marcela, and began pioneering his own installation ventures with his one-man firm, Eric Billig WORKS. Beginning with an impromptu coffee table for his mother-inlaw, Billig’s designs eventually morphed into a sprinkling of other installation projects along the way. The Albuquerque restaurateur-turned-carpenter had become an accidental Austin craftsman.

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Over the past 10 years, Billig has completed over 65 works in a stream of intimate settings. The detailed projects vary from topsy-turvy coffee tables to artistic tiles, spacious kitchen islands, his-and-her vanities and polished countertops; but they all share two things: an alluring organic quality and a clear appreciation for detail. Perhaps the material Billig is best-known for, however, is concrete. “I always had a particular fascination for concrete,” he says. “I loved how it went down as the sloppy mud and then turned into this hard material. Even today, that still seems like the coolest thing on the planet. There is something amazing about taking this rough material and transforming it into something that fits inside a person’s home.” The meticulous, rigid process of creating concrete works Kathleen Cook,”Onions Like Pearls,” Pastel, 16” x 20”

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employs a delicate balance of artistic expression and scientific method. While each of Billig’s rock works differs, they all commence with a mixture of concrete in its basic chalky, liquid state. From there, he forms various shapes and imagery into the minerals, allows the material to harden and dry and then finishes off the installations with a polish. The epoxy-and-herb countertops at Thai Fresh and the long, dark bar counter at Whip In are just some examples of Billig’s free-form genius. Outside of his craft, Billig spends time with his two greatest loves: his close-knit family and Austin cuisine. When he’s not ordering happy-hour sushi, Indian-inspired curries, local craft brews and rabbit terrines at places like Uchi, Lenoir and Whip In, the Austin artist likes to improvise meals like Cheddar Bunny chicken (baked chicken coated with crushed Annie’s Cheddar Bunnies crackers) for his kids, Beatrice, age 5, and Ezra, age 8. When speaking with Billig, the true depth of his humble disposition becomes apparent rather quickly. It’s as though he’s completely, and charmingly, unaware that many view his complex, awe-inspiring creations as expressive works of modern art. “I never want to pigeonhole myself in trying to define what I do in my work,” he says modestly. “The safest way to describe what I do is to say I create stuff.”

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at HOME

Live, at Center Stage by E l i z a b e t h W i n s low • P h oto g ra p h y by J e n n a N o e l

ver since Linnaeus published his Systema Naturae,

present, to connect to the beauty of our surroundings in a

we’ve been wont to classify Mother Nature. Plants

way other natural elements do not. Incorporating edible ele-

serve as food, medicine or decoration, but rarely do

ments into an arrangement is a further invitation to appreci-

we imagine more than one simultaneous use for them. With

ate plants, which have coevolved to be especially enticing to

a little imagination, though, we can return to a pre-Linnaean

our senses.

aesthetic—a kind of botanical synesthesia, where medicinal

Carly Blair, owner and designer at Margot Blair Floral,

plants are treasured for their aromas, ornamental plants find

often incorporates edibles into her work. “Really, anything

their way into recipes and edibles become decor.

that fits in with a chosen color scheme is fair game to me,”

The bits of the natural world that we bring into our homes

she says. “Fruit is a year-round favorite of mine that usu-

keep us rooted in nature and serve as a reminder of our

ally adds an element of surprise. I might stick some apples

place in it; plants—perhaps because many are food and we

on picks and nestle those in among the flowers, or perhaps

are evolved to notice them—invite us to slow down, to be

let a cluster of deep purple grapes dangle over the edge of

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the container.” She gets especially excited when she finds local grapefruits still attached to the branch. In the fall, she forages (with permission) branches from neighborhood trees that still have pecans hanging onto them for autumn arrangements. For family-style meals where the food itself plays a big role in the table decor, she’ll sometimes make produce-heavy arrangements

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and place them in amongst the platters of food. Herbs, with their exotic aromas, are an obvious choice for the vors a wild, yet restrained, romantic style and finds inspiration in the herb garden. “We’re lucky here in Texas to have such a robust and long growing season!” she says. “Sage, basil, rosemary are all

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old standbys that do well in my garden, and I’m constantly harvesting them for use in arrangements.” When we think of ornamental plants, we often focus on the bloom, but Paige Hill, founder and director of Urban Patchwork,

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work spray and slender stems of onion and chives are perfect in

beyond the flower—whether she’s designing a landscape or an arwith its shimmery, silky white tassels makes a stunning structural element in an arrangement and in the garden,” she says. “The firedramatic or minimalist arrangements, and they add seasonal interest in your landscape.” Perhaps we really do eat with our eyes; there’s a beauty in ed-

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ible plants that goes beyond our palates. Gretchen O’Neil, owner and designer at Petals, ink., recognizes the appeal of sensual edible elements in the center of a table. “There is something magical about living, edible arrangements…bringing the outdoors in, having vibrant colors or interesting textures placed at the center of

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a table of friends and family…that sets a mood,” she says. “I think we can all agree that beauty is sustenance—food for the soul.”

Tips from the Experts n Keep it simple whenever possible; let each unique element have a chance to shine on its own and be supported by the others. n With edibles, let the arrangement sit for a while—you might end up rooting your stems and making new plants! This happens all the time with basil, especially. n Cut stems with a clean knife and put them immediately into fresh, clean water. They’ll last much longer that way. For any part of the stem that’s submerged in water, remove all the leaves so that they don’t break down and rot in the water. n Leaves and stems are just as beautiful in arrangements as flowers. Celebrate texture and line with seedpods, stems and leaves.

n Other edibles with stems: cherry tomatoes or pomegranates on the vine, kumquats, kiwi on the branch and herbs such as Thai basil. n Certain edibles, like delicate lettuces, while fun to include, will not last terribly long and are best used for a dinner party arrangement. n Try different colored carrots or radishes, or accent an arrangement with edibles laid in clusters at the base: a pomegranate cut in half to show the brilliant color inside, apples, persimmons, nuts. n An easy, almost effortless, arrangement is simply fruit piled high in a bowl, hopefully still laden with leaves and stems. Artfully arranged, vegetables and fruit can look just as good, if not better, than a formal floral arrangement.

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n Something with a stem that can drink from the vase will give the longest enjoyment. Kale is a hardy and long-lasting edible—just be sure to change the water daily or it will become quite odorous.

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n Potted herbs are lovely on the dinner table, and make it easy for guests to nibble between courses or to snip a quick garnish for your creations. n It’s important to keep in mind that an arrangement for a dinner table or an event centered around food should not compete with the food. If there’s fragrance to the bouquet at all, it must complement the meal. For example, a Thanksgiving arrangement may have rosemary and oregano in it, but not a fragrant lily that perfumes the room.

Seasonal ideas Fall Blooming chives, lemongrass, dill or fennel fronds, nuts, apples, hard winter squashes and pumpkins Winter Big-leaved, silvery-hued brassicas (kale, cabbage, broccoli), Swiss chard, sweet pea blooms and vines, citrus fruits Spring New garden herbs, nasturtium, lavender Summer Stems with fruit attached (peach, pomegranate, loquat, eggplant), tomato vines, grapes

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Savory Gluten-Free Pies by Kate Payne • Photography by Jo Ann Santangelo

ecause I became a pie maker years after going glu-

hours prior to your desired baking time so that it can spend

ten-free, I had no prior experience making pies with

a little time in the freezer.

regular flour; but a few crusts into my pie career I

The perfect pie dough is an elusive goal regardless of

discovered that pie is pie. The amount of work that goes into

one’s capacity for digesting gluten proteins. When adding

a tender, flaky crust is just as much of a process for gluten

water to the dough, shoot for a consistency that stays to-

eaters as it is for the wheat-free camp. Pie is an equal-oppor-

gether when pressed but that’s neither gooey, nor the other

tunity project!

extreme of too dry and crumbly. Too much handling will

Making a good gluten-free crust involves a few more ingredients, but nothing too hard to find. Sweet rice flour, also

melt the fat too soon and result in shortbread instead of the tender and flaky goal.

called mochiko, can be found at Asian markets or at grocery

I add parchment paper to the rolling process to boost mo-

stores with well-stocked gluten-free baking aisles—which is

rale and increase the odds of success since the ever-so-sticky

also where you’ll find the xanthan gum. Don’t panic over the

gluten-free dough can be unnerving. I’ve found that peeling

price of xanthan gum! It will last for a year’s worth of gluten-

off the parchment slowly—in a horizontal motion rather

free baking adventures.

than vertically—will help to keep the crust intact. If the top

Ideally, making a piecrust should span two days—the first

or bottom crust has sat out on the counter too long, it may

day to make the dough, and the second to let it rest in the

be difficult to peel from the parchment. If that happens, set

refrigerator. Regular gluten piecrusts need to be refrigerated

the rolled-out crust on a baking sheet in the refrigerator or

after making the pie dough to relax the flour and keep it from

freezer to allow it to firm back up a bit.

developing its gluten properties. While that’s not an issue for

The recipe below makes one thick bottom crust or a thin-

gluten-free crusts, refrigeration prior to rolling and baking is

ner bottom crust and covered-crust or lattice-top for a sa-

still a good idea because it keeps the fat from melting into the

vory pie. If making a sweet pie instead, add 2 teaspoons of

crust too soon. If pressed for time, prep the crust at least two

granulated sugar with the dry ingredients.

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Hip Girl’s Gluten-Free Piecrust for Savory Pies Makes 1, 10” crust or top and bottom crusts for an 8” pie 1 c. white rice flour ½ c. potato starch ¼ c. buckwheat flour ¼ c. sweet rice flour ½ t. xanthan gum ½ t. sea salt ½ c. cold butter, cut into ½-in. cubes 1 large egg 1 T. apple cider vinegar Ice cubes 1 c. water 1 egg, separated Day One: Dough Preparation Spread two large pieces of parchment paper (at least 18 inches long) on a clean work space. Mix together the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add the butter pieces to the dry mix and use a pastry cutter or a fork to incorporate it until the butter pieces are pea-size. Whisk together the whole egg and vinegar in a small bowl and then incorporate into the dry mix. Add ice cubes to the water, then add 2 tablespoons of ice water directly into the flour mixture and incorporate with a wooden spoon or firm spatula. Assess the dough by grabbing handful to see if it holds together when pressed. Add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to finish adhering the dough, if necessary. Dump the dough onto the waiting parchment paper. (If making a covered or lattice-top pie, separate the dough into two balls, and shape and roll each one separately.) Shape the dough by hand to form a flat circle between 6 and 9 inches wide (depending whether the goal is for two small crusts from one recipe or one large crust). Connect and smooth the cracks that form around the edges of the circle. Place the top piece of parchment over the dough disk, fold it up and slide it into an airtight bag or onto a plate and cover with cling wrap to form a tight seal. Place the pie dough into the refrigerator overnight, or into the freezer for at least 1 hour. Day Two: Shape, Fill and Bake Remove the dough disk from the refrigerator 30 minutes prior to rolling out. After 30 minutes, roll out the dough between the two pieces of parchment—rolling from the center outward and then along the edges of the circle, clockwise, to help close any cracks that form. Roll to form a 12- to 13-inch circle. Remove the top piece of parchment and, like turning a page in a book, flip the dough onto a 9-inch pie plate quickly and confidently. Slowly remove the last piece of parchment by gently easing the crust off and pulling in horizontal alignment with the crust. Firm and shape the edge of the crust—fluting or simply folding the excess edge over. Prior to filling, brush the unbaked crust with the egg white, to keep it from getting soggy. If making a covered-crust pie, be sure to brush the edges where the top and bottom connect with either egg white or cold water. I like to brush the finished tops of covered or lattice pies with the egg yolk for a lovely golden glaze. Now let’s fill! Both of the recipes below would also make great hand pies (probably 6 to 8 servings each).

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GLUTEN FREE AND VEGAN DESSERTS!

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Goat Curry Pie Makes 1, 8-inch covered-crust pie Coconut oil 1 small onion, diced 2 carrots, roughly chopped Salt and pepper 1 lb. goat stew meat, cubed in 1-in. or smaller pieces 1 lb. small potatoes, skin on, chopped into 1-in. pieces 3 cloves garlic, minced

1-in. piece of ginger, peeled and minced 2 t. curry powder ¼ t. turmeric ¼ t. fresh-ground nutmeg ²/³ c. coconut milk ²/³ c. vegetable or meat stock 1½ t. cornstarch

Glaze the bottom of a hot skillet with coconut oil and sauté the onion and carrots until lightly browned. Salt and pepper the goat stew meat well and add it to the pan. Brown the meat on all sides. Add the potatoes, garlic, ginger and spices and combine well. Add the coconut milk and stock and whisk in the cornstarch. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes, then uncover and simmer another 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 425°. Prepare the bottom piecrust and pour in the filling. Seal with the top crust and prick, or make slits, for ventilation. Bake for 10 minutes, reduce the heat to 350° and bake for 30 more minutes. Serve warm.

Tourtière (Pork Pie) Makes 1, 8-inch covered-crust pie 1½ lb. ground pork ½ t. fresh-ground pepper 1 c. water 1 bay leaf 1 dried sage leaf ½ t. dried rosemary ½ t. ground cinnamon ¼ t. fresh-ground nutmeg

2 t. cornstarch 1 small onion, diced finely 2 stalks celery, diced finely 1 t. salt Olive oil 2 large cloves garlic, minced 1 T. butter

Combine the pork, pepper and water in a large saucepan or skillet— breaking up the pork into small pieces. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and add the spices and cornstarch. Cook, covered, for 30 minutes or until the water has evaporated. Meanwhile, sauté the onion, celery and salt in olive oil until translucent. Add the garlic and butter and cook for 5 more minutes. Combine with the pork mixture. Preheat the oven to 425°. Prepare the bottom piecrust and pour in the filling. Seal with the top crust and prick, or make slits, for ventilation. Bake for 10 minutes, reduce the heat to 350° and bake for 40 more minutes. Serve hot with homemade mustard (see recipe on p. 36).

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TITO’S HANDMADE VODKA HANDCRAFTED IN AUSTIN, TEXAS, BY TITO BEVERIDGE

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No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.

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aren Morgan’s timeless Chocolate Cream Pie pays homage to Southern baking tradition by featuring a little bit of Tito’s in every bite. A sensational salute to spirits past and present, this dream pie will drop your jaw and leave you wanting another slice. For Karen’s recipe, visit Tito’s Stardust Blog at titosvodka.com/ blog and find the October 18 entry.

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COOKS at home

Tim Byres by K r i st i W i l l i s • P h oto g ra p h y by K at e L eSu eu r

n a weekend morning, the activity at the Byreses’

knife skills by coring the lemons to remove the seeds—mak-

ranch-style house in North Dallas wavers between

ing them easier to squeeze onto the apricots without getting

energetic and chaotic. Tim and his wife, Mo, merged

unwanted seeds in the mix.

their families a few years ago, bringing together under one

This morning, Tim gets creative and decides to put the

roof Tim’s teenage boys, Liam, age 16, and Finnley, age 13;

bananas inside the waffle iron with the batter. Mo raises her

Mo’s daughter Frankie, age 10, and mom, Mimi; as well as

eyebrows and asks, “Is that going to work?” Tim shrugs and

several cats, dwarf hamsters and a bearded dragon.

says, “We’ll see.” The kids look suspicious and the boys lean

With that big of a crew, life gets a little hectic, and weekend breakfasts have become the time for the family to recon-

over the counter to get a better look, or possibly to be closer when the first plate is ready.

nect before Tim heads off to his popular restaurants, Smoke

The aroma of banana and coconut fills the kitchen while

and Chicken Scratch. Waffles are a favorite on Sunday morn-

Tim tends to the thick cuts of bacon in the cast-iron skillet.

ings and, over time, the family created a recipe together for

“Dad, please don’t burn my waffle,” Finnley prompts—fear-

toasted coconut and caramelized banana waffles—adding

ing Dad might have become distracted.

tastes for everyone at the table.

Tim removes the first waffle from the iron and one of the

“The first adaptation was substituting coconut milk on a

kids exclaims, “You did it!” Tim sighs and answers, “Sur-

day when the regular milk was long gone,” says Tim. “Then

prised?” He runs a growing restaurant group, but he may face

came the toasted coconut flakes. The sugary banana was for

his toughest critics at home.

Finnley, who had a short, but solid obsession with the word

With the final plate dished up, everyone adds their top-

banana. My older son, Liam, can eat all the bacon on the plate

pings: a little fruit, a drizzle of syrup, a sprinkle of powdered

if not patrolled, and my daughter, Frankie, dips and drizzles

sugar. Finnley and Frankie show off their playfulness by

with sorghum—first brought home from a Deep South ex-

decorating their waffles with smiley faces, and then they dig

cursion. The apricots are for Mo because they’re bright and

in. Tim starts dipping his bacon in the sorghum syrup and

fresh, just like her smile.”

everyone follows his lead. A chorus of “this is good!” rises

Everyone pitches in to make breakfast: Liam grabs the

from the table as they move into the easy chatter of a family

mixing bowl and finds ingredients, and Frankie helps set the

happy to be spending the morning together enjoying their

table while Finnley sits on the side “supervising” Dad. Mo’s

favorite meal.

the traffic director—scooting kids around the kitchen and out from under Tim’s feet and shooing curious cats searching for goodies away from the counter. Despite Tim’s restaurant success, the kids are unimpressed with any fancy preparations in the home kitchen. One night when Mo was out, Tim made coq au vin for dinner and only Liam would eat it. The other two headed for the cereal box. Mo forgets about Tim’s skills, too, even though they met while working at the Mansion at Turtle Creek. Tim offered to make a cake for their Halloween party and Mo began to question whether he could make it to her satisfaction. He answered, a little incredulously, “Honey, I’m a trained chef. I can make a cake.” Those chef skills are apparent in the tasty touches to the waffles, too, like folding the toasted coconut into the batter, rather than just sprinkling it on top. Tim also shows off his EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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The Byres Family Toasted Coconut and Caramelized Banana Waffles Serves 4

To make the apricots, combine all ingredients and let macerate until sweet and juicy.

For the apricots: 4 fresh apricots, stones removed, sliced Juice of 1–2 lemons 1–2 t. powdered sugar For the batter: 1½ c. unsweetened coconut milk 6 T. butter, melted 2 large eggs 1 c. all-purpose flour 1 T. baking powder ½ t. salt 6 T. raw turbinado sugar, divided ½ c. sweetened flaked coconut, toasted Nonstick vegetable oil spray 4 bananas

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Combine the coconut milk, melted butter and eggs in a small bowl and whisk to blend. In a larger bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, baking powder, salt and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Whisk in the coconut milk mixture, then fold in the toasted coconut. Preheat the oven to 250°. Preheat the waffle iron on medium heat. Spray the waffle iron with the nonstick spray. Working in batches, split a banana lengthwise, coat with one tablespoon of the raw sugar and add to the waffle iron. Spoon a quarter of the batter over the banana, close the waffle iron and cook until the waffle is brown and crisp and the banana caramelized—about 4 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet and place in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter. Serve warm with sorghum, maple syrup, powdered sugar, the thickest, smokiest bacon you can find and a bowl of bright and fresh apricots.

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COOKS! 2013

COOKS at home

JOSH Watkins by L ay n e V i cto r i a Ly n c h • P h oto g ra p h y by W h i t n ey A rost egu i

ome chefs embrace a dogmatic mind-set when it

ranchers into enticing, well-made meals. “There’s something

comes to cooking in a professional kitchen, while oth-

to be said for knowing each of these people personally,” Wat-

ers labor tirelessly to innovate and improve the culi-

kins says. “Because I’ve built relationships with them, I know

nary industry every day. Josh Watkins, executive chef at the

they are going to give me great ingredients.”

Carillon in the AT&T Hotel and Conference Center, has the

Perhaps this defining characteristic was inherited from

latter personality. From early on, the confident Aspen-born,

Watkins’s mother, who eschewed empty processed foods

Austin-raised chef knew he wanted to apply his innovation

and drive-through fare and raised him on wholesome, earth-

to transforming treasures from local farmers, artisans and

grown ingredients, instead. “I know everyone says this, but

COOKS! 2013

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“We didn’t have boxed macaroni and cheese or pizza on the table every night. That was absolutely unheard of in our home. [Mom] was a bit of a gourmand.” —Josh Watkins my mom was a different cook from most moms,” he says. “We didn’t have boxed macaroni and cheese or pizza on the table every night. That was absolutely unheard of in our home. [Mom] was a bit of a gourmand.” Indeed, dinner at the Watkins home might have been a big bowl of crispy, creamy Caesar salad one night, followed by a decadent, top-secret artichoke dip paired with crusty homemade bread the next. But the one meal Watkins remembers most favorably from his childhood days in Austin is his mother’s crumbly and rich beef tartare—a recipe he’s continued to prepare over the last 15 years

Josh Watkins’s Beef Tartare Serves 4 12 oz. prime beef tenderloin 1½ t. diced shallots 1 t. diced garlic 1½ t. chopped capers 2 t. chopped parsley, divided ½ t. Worcestershire sauce 1 t. Dijon mustard

1 egg yolk 1 t. white truffle oil 2 T. finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano, divided Salt, to taste 1 small loaf Italian-style bread 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil

for places like the Driskill Hotel and the Carillon. “We’d have that about once a week,” he says. “To me, it tasted like an affinity or an addiction. I still can’t get over how good it is. That’s probably why I still feature it on my menus. People will come in and request it all day long.” Like his mother, Watkins approaches his tartare as a blank canvas—no ingredient or interpretation is off-limits, and that’s probably why the creative-yet-classic dish continues to be one of his most popular. He suggests choosing between three cuts of beef— whole tenderloin, whole rib eye or center-cut rib eye—and for his recipe, he likes high-quality, marbled tenderloin from grassfed cows at Richardson Farms. Dicing the meat into tiny pieces is the secret.

Dice the beef into very small pieces, flatten them on a plate and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes (the beef should become brighter red as it sits). After the beef has chilled, combine it in a bowl with the shallots, garlic, capers, 1 teaspoon of the parsley, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, egg yolk, the truffle oil and 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan. Mix well and salt to taste, then pack the tartare tightly into a ring mold and place on plate and chill until ready to serve. Cut the bread into quarter-inch-thick slices, lightly rub with the olive oil and season with salt. Grill the slices on both sides, then sprinkle the remaining parsley on top. Unmold the tartare, garnish with the remaining Parmesan and serve with the grilled bread.

“I don’t like to grind it,” he notes. “But you need to make sure the pieces are very, very small…almost at a melting consistency.” Once the beef is prepared, Watkins makes the dish his own by folding in flavorful touches such as pungent Parmesan cheese, high-quality black or white truffle oil and mustard gastrique, and every so often, the chef will sear the outside layer of the tenderloin to add extra texture and temperature elevation. Also up for interpretation, he notes, is the best way to get the tartare to your mouth. “I would say I’m classy and use bread every time,” Watkins says with a laugh. “But sometimes you just get hungry and grab the nearest spoon.” In addition to being a favorite dish at the restaurant, tartare is also popular at the South Austin home Watkins shares with his wife, Sarah, and toddler son, Cash. Of course, Cash is too young for the dish, but Watkins plans to introduce him to his family recipe as soon as he can. “That’ll definitely be something I’ll make for him when he’s old enough,” he says. “It’s something that I loved growing up and I want to share that with him.”

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COOKS at home

Tink Pinkard by N i co l e L ess i n • P h oto g ra p h y by K at e L eSu eu r

t’s about five o’clock on a Saturday afternoon and Tink

was encouraged from a young age to learn to roast the Eas-

Pinkard is working in his backyard, breaking up small

ter pig every year at his grandfather’s lamb farm in Oberlin,

flames on the ground with a shovel and sipping on a can

Louisiana. “My grandfather had the same setup, but his was

of Lone Star while Zydeco All Stars play on Pandora. “I can’t

made with real bricks, not cinder blocks,” he says. “I started

be roasting a pig without listening to good music,” he says.

using cinder blocks because the dead air that gets created

Dressed for the imminent pig-pickin’ pool party, Pinkard

inside of the blocks is a great insulator, so that’s why I call it

sports Hawaiian-print swim trunks and a heat-thwarting ban-

a roast…because I’m really roasting this animal, not grilling

dana tied around his forehead, Karate-Kid style. Thanks to a

it. It’s like putting it into an oven.”

recent TV debut on Cooking Channel’s Man Fire Food, where

Pinkard’s oven remains topless because he likes to see the

Pinkard showcased his pig-roasting wizardry, there’s an ever-

color of the skin as it cooks. “I look for a rich, red color at the

increasing demand for his whole-animal cookouts, which the

end, and I know,” he says. “I don’t even have to temp it when

professional hunter, butcher and outfitter offers via his two-

the red’s there.” And the dramatic effect that this open-air

year-old business ROAST. In fact, this is Pinkard’s 25th such

method offers is an added perk. “I really like to do it this way

event of the year, but the first in a long time that’s just for

because it’s more of a spectacle,” he says. “You can see it, they

fun. “This is one of the better pigs I’ve done because it’s our

can observe it, and to me that’s a connection with food that

going-away party for my wife’s acceptance into law school,”

we’ve really lost.” In fact, Pinkard says one fun aspect of a pig

he says. “I went ahead and splurged.”

roast is watching people’s more primitive instincts take over

Just beyond arm’s length is the butterflied, 32-pound Berk-

when it’s time to dig in. “When it’s serve time, I open the grill,

shire-Yorkshire-cross pig that Pinkard has wedged flat inside

leave tongs and a knife and watch people stare at it for a min-

a grill and laid over a custom-made, three-by-four-foot cin-

ute,” he says. “Then, it’s like vultures…they realize what to do.”

der-block clamshell construction surrounding a bed of hot

On this occasion, however, Pinkard does most of the cut-

coals and Pinkard’s signature blend of pecan and mesquite

ting—shredding tender morsels of ham, shoulder and more,

wood. “I have the fire super tame just because I know my

section by section, to be enjoyed with macaroni and cheese,

friends,” he says with a laugh. “I said six, so they’ll be here

cauliflower au gratin, kale salad and other tempting side

at seven.”

dishes brought by guests—several of whom are already mak-

Normally, people would pay Pinkard $1,000 or more for

ing a beeline for the choicest part of the animal: the cheeks.

such an event—depending on a number of factors, including

“The cheek of any animal is just a really good, sweet, tender

the kind of animal being roasted (he has special grills for

meat,” Leah notes. “It’s kind of fatty, but it’s still muscular.”

fresh seafood, as well as a large one for veal calves), whether

By all accounts, the evening is a huge success, but for

it comes with a full-service catering of American or Cuban-

Pinkard, this is more than just enjoying good food and friends.

style sides or even if the meal features the talents of local

It’s also about sharing the stories of the small farmers from

chefs such as Sonya Coté. But the goal tonight is just to relax

whom he sources his meat—from Loncito Cartwright and

with friends and family and celebrate the accomplishment of

his top-drawer pastured-pork operation in Dinero, to this

his wife Leah, who says she’s touched by the gesture and en-

evening’s pig purveyor: the owner of a casket company who

joys this kind of feast. “Aside from being delicious, it’s fun,”

raises pigs on the side. “To me, doing this connects people to

she says. “You’re all sitting around. You can drink a beer. You

that farmer in a much different way than putting a pork chop

can watch [the pig] as it cooks, as he’s fiddling with it. It’s

on the grill,” he explains. “[Guests] look at this and they go,

more of an event than just, say, going to someone’s house and

Wow, that’s awesome! That pig looks great. Who raised that

having dinner.”

animal? And you know…it brings awareness to our farmers,

Pinkard says he has always enjoyed playing with fire, and

COOKS! 2013

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and that, to me, is what I’m here for.”

“[Guests] look at this and they go, Wow, that’s awesome! That pig looks great. Who raised that animal? And you know…it brings awareness to our farmers, and that, to me, is what I’m here for.” —Tink Pinkard

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Tink Pinkard’s Goin’ to Law School Roasted Pig This recipe uses a two-piece steel grate with handles for turning (Pinkard’s own is custom-made by local company ASERO Enterprises, Inc.). Brining will add moisture and a sweet crackle to the skin. This is measured for a 30-pound animal using a 75-quart cooler. If using a different size of pig or cooler, measure how many gallons it takes to cover the pig (factoring in the amount of ice that will melt: 10 pounds of ice melts to just over one gallon of water), and then use that number of cups of salt and sugar for the brine concentrate. While the salt and sugar amounts are nonnegotiable, the other ingredients are to taste.

Enjoy a Taste of

BASTROP TX

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EAT

Place the pig into a cooler and cover it with the ice and the 4 to 5 gallons of water—making sure that the animal is fully submerged. Set aside. To make the brine concentrate, pour the remaining 2 gallons of water into a stockpot along with the salt, sugar, allspice, bay leaves and red pepper flakes. Bring the mixture to a quick boil, and cook until all of the sugar and salt have dissolved and then chill. Pour the concentrate into the cooler, and brine the pig for about 48 hours. Lay the animal on a table, belly down, for 10 minutes before roasting.

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1 30-lb. roaster pig with head on, skin on, hair scraped and internal organs removed (many processors will butterfly an animal for you) 20 lbs. ice About 4–5 gallons of water, plus 2 more for the brine concentrate 8 c. salt 8 c. dark brown sugar 25 allspice berries, ground 5 oz. bay leaves Red pepper flakes, to taste

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To prepare the oven, make a bed of coals with mesquite and pecan wood in the front and back with a very small smolder in the middle—making sure to not allow direct flames to reach the pig. Roast at 150° for about 40 minutes and then add more wood to bring the temperature up to about 225°. Roast for about 3 hours, flipping the pig several times (or every other beer, as Pinkard says), until the internal temperature of the roaster reaches 160° and the skin has a deep red color. Open up the grate, turn the pig belly-side down and serve with tongs and a knife.

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Tools for mindful eating by K r i st i W i l l i s

ad diets that include bizarre ingredients or omit major food groups are common, and typically result in yoyo dieting—a cycle of losing and gaining weight that is both unhealthy and demoralizing. A more balanced and realistic approach recommended by a growing number of doctors, psychologists and nutritionists is mindful eating—the practice of being mindful or observant of personal thoughts and feelings surrounding food without judging them. “For many people, eating is more of a habitual activity,” explains Dr. Michelle May, author of Eat What You Love, Love What You Eat. “They eat the same things that they always eat at certain meals, at certain restaurants or while they are doing certain things. Mindful eating is about awareness of the entire process of eating. It starts with basic awareness of my physical state and continues to explore the emotional and physical conditions of eating.” By changing a person’s relationship with food, mindful eating removes the guilt around enjoying food, and breaks the cycle of what May refers to as “eat-repent-repeat.” To assist both new and experienced mindful eaters on this journey, a new set of digital tools is available to help users better understand the choice to eat and to teach the skills needed to break away from the frenzy of the day—to check in, think and then decide. Am I Hungry? FreeTreat e-book: Created as a series of exercises for self-guided training, this e-book offers seven activities that address the issues that lead to emotional, mindless eating. Participants explore techniques to integrate mindfulness into their day, enjoy food rather than eat on autopilot, remove judgment around “good” and “bad” foods and reduce stress. Dr. May is currently developing an Am I Hungry iPhone app that will be available in late 2013. Cost: free. Platform: PDF. eatwhatyoulovelovewhatyoueat.com

CraveMate: This app focuses on encouraging users to break the cycle of food cravings by setting goals for foods they want to add to, remove from or limit in their diets. Reminder alerts prompt them to take action on their goals and a camera tool lets them add pictures and video to capture the moment of the craving and how they felt, which they can then share with friends over social media or via e-mail. Cost: $0.99. Platform: iPhone. cravemate.com

Eat, Drink & Be Mindful: From Dr. Susan Albers, a clinical psychologist and author of several books on mindful eating, this app targets lifestyle changes to break mindless eating habits. Users log their physical and mental states before and after meals on a hunger scale and detail foods eaten in a diary. An alarm prompts them to log their entries, which can later be viewed in a calendar or a graph showing progress. Cost: $5.99. Platform: iPhone. eatingmindfully.com/tools/mindful-eating-app-new

Mindful Eating: Food journaling is a popular weight-loss technique and this app expands the journal by shifting the focus from calories consumed to the experience of eating. Users can add photos, describe their food and sensory experiences, as well as rate their hunger, their focus and the pleasure of their last bites. They can also capture the location of where they dine and add notes about small, healthy changes they made each day. The app includes a separate log for tracking weight and body mass index (BMI) and a link to the e-book Diet Shock about the tactics of the diet industry. Cost: $5.99. Platform: iPhone. vialean.com Mindful Meals: Using a timer to remind users to slow down while eating, this app presents a survey before and after meals to help people track their emotions. A chime and on-screen alert occur periodically during the meal to prompt diners with a mindful eating tip. The information screens provide helpful background to those new to the practice. Cost: $1.99. Platform: iPhone. mobilerecoveryapps.com/mindful-meals

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THE Directory ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class, or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 830-367-5875 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram brokenarrowranch.com

Fischer & Wieser Specialty Foods, Inc. From the farm to your family table, we have been creating exciting, delicious, and award-winning gourmet products for over 40 years in Fredericksburg! 830-997-8969 1406 S. US Hwy. 87, Fredericksburg 830-990-8490 315 E. Main St., Fredericksburg 800-369-9257 411 S. Lincoln St., Fredericksburg jelly.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired. 512-363-5622 2032 S. Lamar Blvd. ilikelick.com

Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com

Noble Pig Sandwiches Local sandwich shop featuring house cured meats, made from scratch breads, condiments and pickles. 512-382-6248 11815 620 N., Ste. 4 noblepigaustin.com

Spiral Horn Apiary Where millions of honey bees call home. The finest raw, unfiltered honey, handcrafted all-natural soap, body lotions and hand cream. Tours available. 325-792-6818; 8247 FM 502, Rochelle spiralhornapiary.com

Texas Hill Country Olive Company The Texas Hill Country Olive Company is a family-owned business committed to supplying the highest quality olive oil produced in the United States. 512-607-6512 2530 W. Fitzhugh Rd., Dripping Springs texashillcountryoliveco.com

Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil & balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com

VOM FASS VOM FASS is the premier specialty retailer of the world’s finest gourmet oils, vinegars, spirits, liqueurs and wines. 512-637-9545 3663 Bee Cave Rd. vomfassaustin.com

Bakeries Better Bites Bakery We are a gluten-free certified/vegan bakery specializing in delightful treats with special dietary needs, and high food standards, in mind. 512-350-2271 11190 Circle Dr., Ste. 350 betterbitesbakery.com

Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasion. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com

Naegelin’s Bakery “Oldest Bakery In Texas.” Full line retail/wholesale bakery. 877-788-2895; 129 S. Seguin Ave. naegelins.com

Smart Food Kitchen

Princess & Moose’s Sister Bakery

A gluten-free eco-friendly space where food producers can afford to do all their food production and use their profits to maximize their growth. 512-657-2727 2002 Southern Oaks Dr.

Old school baking with a twist. We use as much local produce as possible. We do small batch baking to keep the integrity of the product. 512-417-9847 pmstreats.com

Beverages

Texas Coffee Traders

4.0 Cellars 4.0 Cellars is a tasting room and event venue serving the wines of Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery and McPherson Cellars. 830-997-7470; 10354 E. US Hwy. 290 fourpointwine.com

The Austin Wine Merchant Locally owned and operated since 1991. Courteous and professional services. Careful selection. Competitive pricing. Gift wrap. Delivery within Austin. 512-499-0512 512 W. 6th St. theaustinwinemerchant.com

Cuvée Coffee Cuvée is a specialty coffee roaster nestled in the Texas Hill Country with a coffee bar on E. 7th street. All coffee is directly sourced & roasted to order. 512-264-1479 1912 E. 7th St. cuveecoffee.com

East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and Fair Trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn & distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s Original Microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

Wedding Oak Winery Located in the northern Hill Country, Wedding Oak Winery creates Texas wines from 100% Texas-grown warm weather varietals. Our Texas roots run deep! 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com

BOOKSELLERs BookPeople

East End Wines Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events, or enjoying on our patio! 512-904-9056 1209 Rosewood Ave. eastendwinesatx.com

Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

Hilmy Cellars

University of Texas Press

Vineyards, winery & tasting room. 830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg hilmywine.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Pedernales Cellars Pedernales Cellars is a family-owned winery in the Texas Hill Country where one can enjoy delectable Spanish-style wines and fabulous views. 830-644-2037 2916 Upper Albert Rd., Stonewall pedernalescellars.com

Spec’s Wine, Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’s largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260; 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893; 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400; 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981; 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300; 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals, and through electronic media. 512-252-3206 utexaspress.com

Catering and Meal Delivery Dishalicious Restaurant-quality prepared meals made from scratch, inspired by seasonal produce and delivered to your door. 512-940-9662 dishalicious.com

Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food & surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

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edible Marketplace Boggy Creek Farm

Market Days: Wednesday and Saturday 8 AM to 1 PM www.boggycreekfarm.com

Hill Country Lavender blanco, texas

Texas First Commercial Lavender Farm

Offering a full line of handcrafted local lavender products with wonderful gift ideas at our year round location and on our website

Visit our year round location at Brieger Pottery, Blanco TX Mon - Sat 10 - 5 Sun 11 - 4 call 830.833.2294 or check our website.

www.hillcountrylavender.com

handcrafted honeywines www.RohanMeadery.com

The Only Full Service Knife Shop in Austin Since 1988

We Sharpen:

Kitchen, Pocket & Hunting Knives Garden & Kitchen Tools

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A Day On The River Is Worth A Month In Town

Cabins ~ RV Spaces ~ Gift Shop 830-833-5115

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Beesstt ’sB Woorlrldd’s W Falafel 4601 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, TX 78751 TEL. 512.323.2259 World’s Best Falafel

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Restaurant & Catering FULL SERVICE CATERING LUNCH SERVICE DINNER CLUB COOKING CLASSES/DEMOS SAUCYSCATERING.COM Voted Best Catering Again This Year! 4005 Hwy. 2147 Cottonwood Shores 830-693-4838

Madagascar Black Pepper Gourmet Sea Salts Culinary Herbs and Spices Wholesale and Retail Soup, Salads, Sandwiches, Local Beer & Wine Featuring 8 of Blanco’s Real Ale beers on tap

Private Party Catering! oldstonemarket.com • 830-864-5060

Mon. - Thur. 10:30 am - 3:30 pm Fri. - Sat. 10:30 am - 9:00 pm

doslunascheese.com • 512-963-5357

Our food is made fresh using premium products, local and organic whenever possible. 830-833-0202 / www.redbud-cafe.com

Secede Responsibly

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edible Marketplace We make our wine from TEXAS fruit. TexasHillsVineyard.com 1 mile east of Johnson City 830-868-2321 Tasting room open daily!

GUIDE as french bread te x

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supporting local food with FARM TO TABLE DINNERS TUES. THROUGH SAT.

2900 rio grande . 512-499-0544 texasfrenchbread.com

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Culinary Education Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743 6020-B Dillard Cir. escoffier.edu

Edible Austin’s Chef Auction

SFC Farmers‘ Markets

Wheatsville Food Co-op

Mix and mingle with your closest friends and colleagues at The Allan House and bid on unique dinner packages featuring some of Austin’s most exciting chefs. Cocktails, tastings and entertainment included in ticket price. 512-441-3971 1104 San Antonio St. edibleaustin.com/auction

Real farms. Real food. Live music. Kids’ areas. Weekly tastings. Summer festivals. Free parking. Double dollars Tues. for SNAP/WIC. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 4600 Lamar Blvd. sfcfarmersmarket.org

Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full Service Deli, Hot Bar, Salad Bar, Espresso Bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888 4001 S. Lamar Blvd., wheatsville.coop

Whole Foods Market

The Natural Epicurean

Pinot’s Palette

The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes. Learn here: change your kitchen; change your life. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

Join us for an unforgettable evening of fun, friends and fine art where you enjoy BYOB cocktails and we provide the canvases! 512-249-9672 13435 N. Hwy. 183, Ste. 306 pinotspalette.com/northaustin 512-326-2746 3005 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. B106 pinotspalette.com/southlamar

Texas Farmers Market

Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair

Farms

Design And Construction Parrish & Company For over 40 years, Parrish & Company has served Texas as a leading distributor of fine home products. Family owned and operated. 512-835-0937 3600 E. Old Settlers, Round Rock 830-980-9595 26995 Hwy. 281 N., San Antonio 210-255-1125 2500 N. Main Ave., San Antonio 956-797-9555 400 E. Expy. 83, La Feria/Corpus parrishandcompany.com

Texas Casual Cottages by Trendmaker Trendmaker Homes makes it easy to build a new home on your land. Come visit one of our two Model Home Parks in Round Top or Wimberley, TX. 512-392-6591 6555 RR 12, San Marcos texascasualcottages.com

Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building woodburning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836 texasovenco.com

Wimberley Glassworks See things in a different light! Wimberley Glassworks creates and designs beautiful custom handblown glass lighting and art, in our Texas studio since ‘92. 800-929-6686 6469 RR 12, San Marcos wgw.com

Events Culinary Adventures at the August Escoffier School of Culinary Arts Culinary Adventures offers cooking classes, team building exercises and fully catered events in our beautiful garden and state of the art kitchens. 512-451-5743 myculinaryadventure.com

The Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair is one of the most anticipated culinary attractions of the year. Its multiple tastings, dinners, cooking demonstrations and seminars have achieved a reputation as a rollicking good time. 713-747-9463 sugarlandwineandfoodaffair.com

Texas Performing Arts Texas Performing Arts presents an international season of fine arts performances, as well as the best in touring Broadway and concert attractions. 512-471-2787 texasperformingarts.org

Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 a.m.–1 p.m., Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 a.m.–2 p.m., the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org

Boggy Creek Farm One of the first urban farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Wed. and Sat, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Stroll the farm and visit the hen house! 512-926-4650 3414 Lyons Rd. boggycreekfarm.com

Grocers

Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

Housewares and Gifts Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear, from feed to seed... and a whole lot more! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com

Farmhouse Delivery

Der Küchen Laden

Farmers Markets

We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com

Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchenware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out! 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

Burton Farmers & Artisans Market

Greenling

Held the first Saturday of the month in downtown Burton. You’ll find unique & beautiful artisan wares, garden fresh produce, grassfed beef and more. 979-836-3696 burtontexas.org

HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo Sundays 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org

Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10am2pm in the Lowe's parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com

Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food! 512-440-8449 greenling.com

in.gredients in.gredients is a zero-waste, package-free microgrocer selling local foods with pure ingredients. 512-275-6357 2610 Manor Rd. in.gredients.com

Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer— with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888 609 Congress Ave. 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 royalbluegrocery.com

Faraday’s Kitchen Store Austin’s source for cookware, bakeware, kitchen tools, knives, cooking classes, holiday gifts and so much more. 512-266-5666 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540, Bee Cave faradayskitchenstore.com

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251; 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Serve Gourmet Fun and functional finds will make the casual cook look and feel like a celebrated chef. Gadgets to simplify or tablescapes to mystify can all be found in one spot. Let us show you around, or shop our store online! 512-480-0171; 241 W. 3rd St. servegourmet.com

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Sunset Canyon Pottery The place to go for handmade fine craft, specializing in stoneware pottery for table and kitchen. Visit the gallery and working studio and take a class. 512-894-0938 4002 E. Hwy. 290, Dripping Springs sunsetcanyonpottery.com

Landscape and Environmental Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Countryside Nursery & Landscape

lodging

Professional Services

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm

Austin Label Company

Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals. 830-833-0910 5818 Ranch Rd. 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

MEDIA

Buenos Aires Cafe Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil, UV coatings. Proud members of GoTexan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1834 Ferguson Ln., Ste. 201 austinlabel.com

KUT News 90.5 KUT 90.5 uses the highest editorial standards to shed light on Austin’s civic challenges and opportunities and connect citizens to information they need to experience Austin, Texas. 512-471-1631; 300 W. Dean Keeton kut.org

nonprofits

Austin Resource Recovery provides a wide range of services designed to transform waste into resources while keeping our community clean. 311 austinreycles.com

The Purple Fig Cleaning Co.

World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA) At the World Society for the Protection of Animals, we have worked to expose animal cruelty and prevent animal suffering for more than 30 years. 800-883-9772; wspa-usa.org

We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children. 512-351-1405 cleanfig.com

Garden-Ville

Photography and Art

Time Warner Cable Business Class

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocketfriendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Andy Sams Photography We love creating artistic, vibrant images that capture our subjects’ personalities. We pride ourselves on providing topnotch service from start to finish. 512-694-6311; 908 E. 5th St., Ste. 112 andysams.com

Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave buenosairescafe.com

Chez Nous

Austin Resource Recovery

Specializing in Texas native plants with the largest selection of shade trees. Find everything for organic gardening plus gift shop and bonsai trees. 512-249-0100 13292 Pond Springs Rd. countrysideaustin.com

Organic gardening products, including soils, herbicides and plants. Seven locations throughout Central Texas. 512-329-4900 3606 FM 1327, Creedmoor 512-754-0060 2212 Old Ranch Rd. 12, San Marcos 512-930-8282 250 W.L. Walden Dr, Georgetown garden-ville.com

Restaurants

Time Warner Cable Business Class offers a full suite of business communication tools to small and medium businesses and enterprise-sized companies. 877-824-8314 12012 N. MoPac Expy. twcbc.com/tx

REAL ESTATE

The Contemporary Austin

A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional French cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com

El Naranjo Traditional Mexican cuisine. We cook everything from scratch, using local and organic ingredients as much as possible. 512-474-2776 85 Rainey St. elnaranjo-restaurant.com

East Side Pies We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Glutenfree options, too! Three locations: Eastside, Airport and now Crestview. 512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education, and the collections. With two locations and the Art School, The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org

Atria at the Arboretum Atria at the Arboretum offers exceptional senior living with luxury services and amenities for Austin’s most fascinating older adults. 512-346-4900 9306 Great Hills Trail atria-arboretum.com

Eden East

Marta Stafford Fine Art

ISO Commercial

FABI+ROSI

Signature restaurant of award-winning chef Sonya Coté, Eden East sprouted from the collaborative efforts of some of Austin’s local food heroes. 512-428-6500 755 Springdale Rd. edeneastaustin.com

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

A pairing of art and antiques. The collection includes sculpture, representational works and contemporary expressionism in a charming vintage 1930s home. 830-693-9999 200 Main St., Marble Falls martastaffordfineart.com

ISO Commercial is a brokerage firm specializing in restaurant, bar and retail spaces in Austin and the surrounding markets. 512-799-3448 311 W. 5th St., Ste. 100 isocommercial.com

YardFarm

TASTE Wine + Art

Land & Ranch Realty, LLC

Fonda San Miguel Restaurant

Cultivate your urban homestead! YardFarm designs & constructs edible, native & waterwise landscapes that reflect their owners’ organic lifestyle. 512-961-7117 7204 Shelton Rd. yardfarmaustin.com

Offering a stunning art collection by 40+ established TX artists with a wide range of styles. Worldwide and Texas wines sold by the taste, glass, bottle or case. 830-868-9290 213 N. Nugent Ave., Johnson City tastewineart.com

Assisting buyers and sellers in Texas land transactions involving ranches, farms and live water recreational properties. 210-275-3551 382 Hwy. 83 S., Leakey landandranchrealty.com

Offering hand-crafted traditional interior Mexican recipes in an unparalleled atmosphere; a full wine list; classic and signature cocktails. 512-459-4121 2330 W. North Loop fondasanmiguel.com

Natural Gardener

FABI+ROSI serves classic European dishes with a young and modern twist. Sourcing locally grown and sustainably raised provisions is our top priority. 512-236-0642 509 Hearn St. fabiandrosi.com

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Edible Communities is proud to present the Edible Recipe Guide. Covering local food-loving regions across North America, James Beard Award-winning Edible Communities has forever changed the way we think about sustainability and the importance of being connected to your local food community, wherever you live. In this delicious new app, we present the very best of Edible Communities recipes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a must-have collection of local, sustainable dishes that feature delectable meals to warm and wow, from luscious soups to divine desserts and everything in between, including tips and menus, Edible Radio podcasts, and links to all Edible Communities publications. Also included with your purchase of the app is a 6-issue, 1 year, subscription to Organic Gardening Magazine. See offer inside the app for details. Purchase now to get the very best that Edible Communities and Organic Gardening have to offer.

www.ediblecommunities.com 92

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Green Pastures

The Peach Tree

Make It Sweet

Located in old South Austin a mile and a half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747 811 W. Live Oak St. greenpasturesrestaurant.com

A Fredericksburg family tradition for over 40 years. Serving delicious homemade foods daily. Boutique offers distinctive gifts and apparel for the home. 830-997-9527 210 South Adams, Fredericksburg peach-tree.com

At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

Hillside Farmacy

Snack Bar

Mission Restaurant Supply

A restaurant and specialty grocery store located in the old Hillside Drugstore building, beautifully restored using original pharmacy cabinetry. 512-628-0168 1209 E. 11th St. hillsidefarmacy.com

Chef-driven, globally inspired & locally sourced menu with eco-vineyard wine, craft beer, artisan coffee and tea in a stylish relaxed space. Bring the dog. 512-445-2626 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com

Jack Allen’s Kitchen

Roadhouse Bastrop

Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558; 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372; 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com

Roadhouse has been voted Best Burger in Bastrop County for the past 10 years! Serving burgers, chicken sandwiches, huge salads and homemade desserts! 512-321-1803 2804 Hwy. 21 E., Bastrop roadhousebastrop.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe

The Turtle Restaurant

Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste! 512-451-1436; 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451; 3003 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-258-7757; 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717; 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500; 4301 W. William Cannon kerbeylanecafe.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Magnolia Cafe Come to Magnolia Cafe! Fresh food cooked with passion in a comfortable setting, kind of like your favorite aunt’s giant kitchen, if she had one. Open 24/8. 512-478-8645; 2304 Lake Austin Blvd. 512-445-0000; 1920 S. Congress Ave. themagnoliacafe.com

Navajo Grill A unique dining establishment nestled deep in the heart of where historic Fredericksburg lies. 830-990-8289 803 E. Main St., Fredericksburg navajogrill.com

Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

Uptown Blanco Restaurant Open for lunch daily. Dinner Thurs.–Sun. Unique culinary specials using local hill country ingredients. Ballroom & Courtyard available for private groups. 830-833-0738 317 Main St., Blanco uptownblanco.com

Wild Wood Bakehouse 100% gluten free bakery and cafe. Locally owned and operated since 2002 using organic and natural ingredients. Offering full service restaurant service. 512-327-9660 3016 Guadalupe St. wildwoodbakehouse.com

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

Specialty Market For Goodness Sake Natural Foods Family owned and operated health food store featuring high quality supplements, all-natural and organic bodycare plus unique grocery items. 830-606-1900 1306 E. Common St., Ste. 101, New Braunfels fgsnb.com

We are the premier foodservice equipment & supply dealer in central & south Texas. We’re open to the public! SalesLeasing-Service 512-389-1705 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 210-354-0690 1126 S. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio 361-289-5255 1737 N. Padre Island Dr., Corpus Christi 956-467-1295 3422 N. 10th St., McAllen missionrs.com

Salt & Time Butcher Shop Salumeria We are a full service butcher shop featuring fresh cut meat, housemade salumi and charcuterie, all from sustainable Texas ranches. Lunch and dinner too! 512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St., Ste. A saltandtime.com

Tourism Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 foodrelated businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food! 512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce & CVB Visit Marble Falls, adventure by day, romance by night and an array of activities in between—wineries, lakes and caves, golf, shopping and more! 830-693-2815; 100 Avenue G., Marble Falls marblefalls.org

Messina Hof Winery & Resort Messina Hof Winery & Resort features world class award-winning wines and hospitality in their Fredericksburg and Bryan tasting rooms, B&Bs and Restaurant. 979-778-9463 4545 Old Reliance Rd. Bryan 830-990-4653 9996 US Hwy 290, Fredericksburg messinahof.com

Wellness Integrity Academy The Integrity Academy at Casa de Luz, Center for Integral Studies is a small, secular, private, year-round school serving families and children ages 3 - 18. 512-535-1277 1701 Tomey Rd. integrityacademy.org

Mend Spa My specialties include structural analysis, deep tissue, sports, and most recently John Barnes, Myofascial Release Approach. Location: Unwind.Austin.Center 512-968-0234 1908 Koenig Ln. mendspa.com

Peoples Rx Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com Want to advertise with Edible Austin and have your business listed in this directory? Please contact dawn@edibleaustin.com for more information.

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Liam Gillick. Raised Laguna Discussion Platform (Job #1073), 2013. Painted steel, 120 x 160 x 431 ¾ inches. Courtesy of the artist and Casey Kaplan, New York. Photograph by Liam Gillick.

art de terroir

Liam Gillick September 21, 2013 – January 5, 2014 Marianne Vitale September 21, 2013 – January 5, 2014 Contemporary Picnic Sunday, November 3

11 am–2 pm

Laguna Gloria

Co-presented by Edible Austin

Gather with friends to practice the fine art of a picnic brunch, while discovering newly commissioned sculptures by Liam Gillick and Marianne Vitale at The Contemporary Austin. Pack the picnic of your choice and head to the picturesque grounds of Laguna Gloria where you can sample drinks and sweets by local vendors. Advanced tickets recommended. Tickets $15/$10 for members and available at contemporaryaustin.org/programs.

The Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312

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Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 458 8191

Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380

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