Edible Austin Cooks Issue 2014 by Edible Austin

edible

The

COOKS Issue

No. 36 Sept/Oct | Cooks 2014

Austin

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

速

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CONTENTS cooks issue 8

NOTABLE mentions

30 People Peelander-Yellow.

COOKS toolbox

His and hers must-have kitchen tools.

edible BIZ

The road to brick-and-mortar.

A DAY in the life

Reel respite: A snapshot of Josh Jones.

farmers DIARY

I O Ranch.

at HOME

Keith Kreeger.

edible DESIGN

20 Michael Fracasso

McCray and Hall.

Jodi Elliott

edible ENDEAVOR

Eddie Rodriguez

Blackbird Bakery.

Casey Wilcox

Allison Orr

Janelle Reynolds

edible BOOKS

Texas on the Table.

edible DIY

Bath and body.

16 58

COOKS at home 16 April and Craig Collins

cooking BASICS 40 Deep-Frying

The Directory

42 Corn Tortillas 44 Sausage

COVER: “Readying” by Knoxy.

48 Jerky

Proceeds support the historic Paramount Theatre, December 6–13

Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots.

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week and the Paramount Theatre present

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Noel

DAN BARBER Monday, December 8 • 7 PM AT THE PARAMOUNT THEATRE

EDITOR Kim Lane

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Jordan

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Whitney Arostegui

Join us for an unforgettable evening with Dan Barber in his first Texas appearance to talk about his new book, “The Third Plate.”

MARKETING ASSISTANT Shannon Kintner

COPY EDITOR

Barber is the chef of Blue Hill in Manhattan and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the nonprofit farm and education center, Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture. His opinions on food and agricultural policy have appeared in the New York Times, along with many other publications. Barber has received multiple James Beard awards including Best Chef: New York City (2006) and the country's Outstanding Chef (2009). In 2009 he was named one of Time magazine’s 100 most influential people in the world.

ABOUT “THE THIRD PLATE” Barber moves beyond “farm-to-table” to offer a revolutionary new way of eating. After more than a decade spent investigating farming communities around the world, Barber concluded that—for the sake of our food, our health and the future of the land—America’s cuisine requires a radical transformation.

ALSO FEATURING SPECIAL MUSICAL GUEST MICHAEL FRACASSO VIP*: $130; General Admission: $35; Student: $25 For tickets visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221

*VIP Reception VIP tickets include a signed copy of “The Third Plate” and a reception from 6–7 p.m., where you can meet Dan Barber before the show while enjoying locally sourced, seasonal tastings from Austin chefs, along with local wines and spirits and live music.

About Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week: December 6–13 2014 Eat Drink Local Week (EDLW) invites you to support locally sourcing restaurants and cook meals throughout the week entirely with local ingredients. Edible Austin will be at farmer's markets to encourage home cooking with farm fresh ingredients and we'd love for you to join us there and at our special events throughout the week. EDLW benefits Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots. For more information, visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal

Anne Marie Hampshire

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Melinda Barsales, Dena Garcia, Marie Franki Hanan, Michelle Moore, Lauren Walz

ADVERTISING SALES Curah Beard, Lori Brix, Valerie Kelly, Christine Kearney, Katy Mabee

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Greg Rose

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2014. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

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COOKS! 2014

notable MENTIONS Fall is festival season in Central Texas! In addition to the fests and fundraising events listed here, please visit edibleaustin.com for more events and opportunities to celebrate local food and drink.

CELEBRATE PRIDE IN OZ-TIN! The Austin PRIDE Festival—the highlight of PRIDE week—will be held on Saturday, September 20 from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at Fiesta Gardens. The festival is the largest annual LGBTQ advocacy and fundraising event in Central Texas, and will feature plenty of

g e t c a r r i e d away Join us at the historic Driskill Hotel for The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas’s signature tasting event. $20 of each ticket sold benefits:

entertainment, including a live music stage, a DJ stage and delicious local food curated by Edible Austin in the VIP Lounge. Visit austinpride.org for more information and tickets.

BOTTOMS UP WITH TEXAS CRAFT BREWERS More than 50 craft brewers—including local favorites Thirsty Planet, Real Ale

SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER

Tickets available at winefoodfoundation.org

Brewing Company, Twisted X, Live Oak Brewing Company and more—will be at the Texas Craft Brewers Festival on Saturday, September 27. Presented by H-E-B and Silver Oak Distributors and produced by the Young Men’s Business League of Austin and the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, the festival is the state’s largest event focused exclusively on Texas-produced craft beer. Proceeds benefit Austin Sunshine Camps, a nonprofit organization providing mentorship for high-potential low-income boys and girls throughout Central Texas. Visit texascraftbrewersfestival.org for additional information.

GEORGETOWN ART & WINE IN THE SQUARE Hailed as the "Most Beautiful Town Square in Texas," Georgetown

September 26-28

offers up a picturesque venue for Art & Wine in the Square, Sep-

Art, Music & Wine

booths. Visit the Art of Wine Pavilion, this year's new attraction,

on the Georgetown Square Presented by The Downtown Georgetown Association and Blue Lotus Art Tour

Tickets: TheGeorgetownSquare.com Vendor Info: artinsquare.com

tember 26–28. At the heart of the event is a juried arts and crafts festival. Stroll the square while viewing and shopping at the artists' where Texas wineries will offer tastings and entertainment. Art & Wine in the Square is the kick-off event for October's Art Month in Georgetown. Go to thegeorgetownsquare.com for details.

SIP AND SIZZLE IN DOWNTOWN BRYAN Historic downtown Bryan plays host to the 8th annual Texas Reds Steak & Grape Festival, presented by the Downtown Bryan Association September 27–28. A menagerie of Texas wines and craft beer will be featured along with sizzling steaks and six stages with live music. Visit texasredsfestival.com for details.

COOKS! 2014

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EXPLORE HOME FUSION AT THE CONTEMPORARY The Contemporary Austin and Edible Austin present Good Taste: Home Is Where [ ] on Thursday, October 2, from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. on the Jones Center Roof Deck, as the latest in their continuing series of Good Taste events celebrating the intersection of art and food. International artist Do Ho Suh remembers the spaces and qualities of his past homes through his art. Inspired by the artist’s work, this delicious program explores how food conjures memory of home and how migration changes cuisines. Light bites will be provided by Kin & Comfort, Snack Bar and The Gardener’s Feast’s Tamale Addiction, along with local spirits by Paula’s Texas Spirits and live music. Visit thecontemporaryaustin.org for advance tickets, which are recommended. $25/$20 for members.

FOUR DAYS, FOUR EVENTS AT THE GRUENE MUSIC & WINE FESTIVAL Step back in time and visit the authentically preserved Gruene Historic District located along the banks of the spring-fed Guadalupe River. The Gruene Music & Wine Festival, October 9–12, continues a 28-year-old Central Texas tradition of celebration. During the four-day festival, enjoy the best of Texas music and feast on Texas, German and New World food, wines and specialty beer. Whether you come for the barbecue, the craft market or dancing and live music, you're sure to leave with the best of Texas-sized memories. Visit gruenemusicandwinefest.org for details.

RAISE YOUR GLASS FOR ART EDUCATION the natural choice.

The 25th annual La Dolce Vita Food and Wine Festival, present-

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ed by The Contemporary Austin, is coming to Laguna Gloria on Thursday, October 16, from 7 to 10 p.m., featuring special tastings from top restaurants and wineries, and a cocktail lounge curated by Tipsy Texan David Alan. Proceeds benefit The Contemporary’s innovative education programs, which serve thousands of children and adults each year. Visit thecontemporaryaustin.org for more information and tickets.

SIP AND STROLL AMONGST THE SCULPTURE ON MAIN STREET IN MARBLE FALLS Let Marble Falls be your destination weekend, October 17–18, to celebrate sculpture on a community-wide scale. Sculpture on Main is a juried exhibit, attracting both local and international artists. The sculptures will be placed in accessible locations throughout downtown Marble Falls. Artists will talk about their pieces during an artists and patrons reception on Friday and during a Sip and Stroll on Main Street on Saturday. For more information about the weekend activities and events, call 830-693-2815. 10

COOKS! 2014

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COOKS! 2014

JAMMIN’ IN SAN SABA The San Saba Pecan Jam on the Square is coming up on Saturday, October 18, featuring Texas wines, Texas food, Texas music and more. Grammy award-winning artists Asleep at the Wheel headline the festival this year, and a host of Texas wineries, including Kuhlman Cellars, Brennan Vineyards and Wedding Oak Winery, will be represented. Visit pecanjam.com for more information.

TEXAS BOOK FESTIVAL SNEAK PEEK We’re excited to share that Texas cookbook authors will be out in force at the Texas Book Festival, to be held Saturday, October 25 and Sunday, October 26. Among others, ex-Texan Lisa Fain (“The Homesick Texan’s Family Table”), Jack Gilmore (“Jack Allen’s Kitchen”), Kate Payne (“The Hip Girl’s Guide to the Kitchen”) and Terry Thompson-Anderson (“Texas on the Table”) will be in attendance. Stay tuned for more details and authors, and visit texasbookfestival.org for updates.

DIVING FOR PEARLS

collective will be hosted at Monger's Market +

ech de M s prese Ru

26 event benefitting Austin's adventurous theater

nts

Kitchen at 2401 E. Cesar Chavez St. In traditional

T PEARL HE

raiser, stays close to home this year! The October

E DIV

Pearl Dive, Rude Mechs' annual foodie fund-

Pearl Dive fashion, the event will be a cocktail-filled, Gulf Coast-style seafood feast of grilled red snapper, grouper, cobia, shrimp and oysters, plus a raw bar with boiled shrimp and whatever else the fishermen bring in that week. Some of Austin’s finest chefs will be cooking at the event with Monger’s Market’s own Chef Shane Stark at the helm. Tickets are $100 per person. All proceeds from The Pearl Dive support Rude Mechs programming and The Off Center. Visit rudemechs.com for tickets and more information.

RAISING GREEN FOR GREEN CORN PROJECT Green Corn Project has been transforming unused land into thriving vegetable gardens for 16 years. Come celebrate and help raise funds for the volunteer-run, grassroots organization at the annual Fall Festival, Sunday, October 26, at Boggy Creek Farm. Eat your way through an amazing line up of local restaurants and beverage

Join an exciting gathering of nonprofit leaders farmers, ranchers, and local food activists! www.farmandranchfreedom.org/farm-food-leadership-conference

vendors, while listening to live music and perusing a silent auction. Go to greencornproject.org to purchase tickets.

BOOKPEOPLE BRINGS TEXAS TO YOUR TABLE Terry Thompson-Anderson signs her newly released book, “Texas on the Table: People, Places, and Recipes Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State,” at BookPeople on Thursday, October 30 at 7 p.m. In addition to Terry's talk, enjoy food and drink tastings from the book from Chef Iliana de la Vega (El Naranjo), Winemaker David Kuhlken (Pedernales Cellars) and Richardson Farms. Visit edibleaustin.com for details.

COOKS! 2014

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COOKS! 2014

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La DoLce Vita FooD & Wine FestiVaL OctOber 16, 2014 // 7-10P // LAGUNA GLOrIA 3809 W. 35th Street Tastings from the most talked about chefs in Central Texas, selections from local wineries, and specialty cocktails by Austinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most accomplished mixologists, all in one night

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COOKS! 2014

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THE ROYAL LAWN PARTY Celebrate a local harvest at The Royalty Pecan Harvest Festival, Saturday, November 1, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Royalty Pecan Farms hosts this free public event on their extended lawn overlooking 500

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acres of lush pecan trees with the College Station city skyline on the horizon to promote local culture, healthy living and agritourism. Enjoy live music, artists and vendors, games, orchard tours, wine tasting, pecans and more. Visit royaltyfarms.com for more details.

CHAMPAGNE, CABERNET AND CHEFS The Wine and Food Foundation of Texas presents its 12th annual Big Reds and Bubbles on Thursday, November 6, featuring cham-

www.naturalepicurean.com

1700 South Lamar Blvd Austin TX 78704

pagne, sparkling wines and “big reds” from around the world. More than a dozen of Austin’s top chefs will be showcased at the event, held in The Driskill hotel’s ballroom, along with live music and a silent auction. Visit winefoodfoundation.org for more information and tickets.

Something new is happening at

A WEEK OF WURSTFEST Dust off those lederhosen—Wurstfest kicks off in New Braunfels on Friday, November 7 and runs through Sunday, November 16. This annual celebration of German culture features good food, German and Texan beers, music, dancing and more. The festival is held in Lan-

1200B W. 6th St.

da Park, with other events across New Braunfels and Comal County during this fun-filled week. Visit wurstfest.com for more information.

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IN CELEBRATION OF FERMENTATION From bread and cheese to chocolate and coffee, many of your favorite foods are most likely fermented. Fermentation makes food more nutritious, as well as delicious. Author and fermentation expert Sandor Katz will be the keynote speaker at the Austin Fermentation Festival November 15 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. This free festival, held at Le Cordon Bleu's campus in the Domain, will include workshops, local fermentation artisans and vendors, a culture swap and more. An after party with a meet-and-greet for Sandor Katz at HausBar Farm will feature seasonal fare from Qui, Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria, Bola Pizza and desserts from Janina O'Leary of LaV. Visit texasfarmersmarket.org to get early bird tickets, through October 15.

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MÉTIER COOK’S SUPPLY OPENS WITH A SPLASH After achieving local icon status with their restaurant Lenoir, husband and wife team Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher have taken the next step in building Austin’s culinary community with the opening of Métier Cook’s Supply. Tucked into a little house next door to Lenoir on South First, the shop boasts a carefully curated selection of knives, cookware, books (including vintage cookbooks), kitchen tools, barware and more, and it will no doubt be a valued resource—perhaps even an obsession—for chefs and home cooks alike. Everyone from the food geek to the industry professional (who is welcomed with a discount) will feel at home in Métier Cook’s Supply. The shop will also host chef demos, book signings and more. Visit metieraustin.com for schedule. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I feel like too many times in life we are rushed 16

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COOKS at home

APRIL AND CRAIG COLLINS BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

hen wine professionals April and Craig Collins

of fated grand adventure that just happens to center around

plan a meal, they start with what they want to

wine. Fellow sommelier Mark Sayre introduced them at the

drink, and then pick the food. “We like to entertain

Austin City Limits Festival. “We met at five p.m. at the ART

with our beverage more than our food,” says Craig. “And at

the end of the day, we can drink better at our house than at

April say almost in unison, each finishing part of the sen-

most restaurants in Austin.”

tence. And they’ve been dancing ever since—recently cele-

That’s pretty easy to accomplish, because the Collinses’

brating their sixth wedding anniversary.

cozy Clarksville home seems to have quality wine stashed

As their careers have grown, they’ve had to consciously

everywhere. There’s a large wine rack in the office, smaller

guard their time together, though. No longer having the lux-

racks in the kitchen along with a full-size wine fridge, and the

ury of working side-by-side in the home office, they creative-

shelves in the house, as well as at their offsite storage space,

ly plan their dinners together and enjoy cooking comforting

groan with myriad bottles the couple has collected while

foods like spaghetti Bolognese—recipes that not only take

traveling or from special moments in their careers. “April

time, but slow down the pace of life. “With something like

and I spent some time in Friuli, Italy, and we like to share

a Bolognese, there is lots of chopping, and then a two-hour

those flavors with our guests,” says Craig as he presents an

cooking process,” says Craig. “I feel like too many times in

appetizer board piled high with Prosciutto di San Daniele

life we are rushed with everything we do.”

and Easy Tiger bread. Craig then pours a Scarpetta Friulano from Friuli and

half-beer-can smoked chicken.” When questioned if that’s

April exclaims from the other end of the kitchen, “This pair-

the amount of beer used in the recipe, he says, “No, that’s the

ing is so cool!” She admits bias (the company she owns, Vin-

number of beers you drink while it’s cooking. And, there is

tage Wine Marketing, represents the brand), but she’s right

nothing wrong with that—it takes a while.” They often serve

about how the unique wine and meat complement each other.

the chicken with a special cucumber salad that, unbeknownst

Craig slips into sommelier mode as he explains how the San

to them, was in the recipe boxes of both of their families. At

Daniele prosciutto differs from its Parma cousin, and how the

a recent Collins gathering, a cucumber salad was served that

acid in the wine cuts through the fattiness of the meat.

was identical to a dish April grew up eating. April quizzed

Another house favorite is what Craig calls, “two-and-a-

As the beverage director for the ELM Restaurant Group

Craig’s aunt about the ingredients, and then called her own

(24 Diner, Arro, Easy Tiger) and a master sommelier, Craig

grandmother to compare the recipes. It was the same dish.

spends a fair amount of his time mentoring and coaching—

“The salad was a reminder that food takes you places. Both

generously sharing the knowledge he has worked hard to

of our families are originally German even though Craig’s

gain. It’s a role he obviously relishes—beaming with pride as

family has been in Texas for generations and mine was in

he talks about his colleague Scott Ota passing the advanced

Oklahoma,” says April. “Despite the distance, we share this

sommelier exam, or the beverage team at Easy Tiger going

part of our history and we didn’t even know it.”

through the Cicerone certification program for beer professionals. Part of the charm of visiting with April and Craig is the undeniable sense that these two have embarked on some sort

With their mutual knowledge and passion for wine paired with the couple’s intoxicatingly easy grace and generosity, Craig and April clearly have a great deal more to share with Austin’s culinary community. Lucky us.

with everything we do.” —Craig Collins EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

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CRAIG AND APRIL COLLINSES’ “TWOAND-A-HALF-BEER-CAN” SMOKED CHICKEN Serves 3–4 1 whole chicken Salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste 2 lemons 3 beers (2 are optional) Prepare a smoker by heating to 400° to 450°. Dry the chicken with a paper towel to remove all the moisture so that the seasoning will hold. Zest the lemons and combine the zest with the salt and black pepper. Work the seasoning into the skin of the chicken and inside the cavity. Cut the zested lemons in half and stuff into the cavity. Pour ½ of a can of beer into a chilled glass for yourself, then slide the chicken cavity down over the can so that it sits upright. Place the chicken, upright, on the smoker and smoke to a temperature of 160°—about 2 beers long.

ROSEMARY ROASTED POTATOES Serves 3–4 12 new potatoes, washed ½ stick butter, melted Salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste Fresh rosemary, leaves only, to taste

a fiendishly food friendly ale

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Preheat the oven to 450°. Cut the potatoes into quarters. Coat with the melted butter, then sprinkle with the salt, pepper and rosemary. Bake for 45 minutes.

CUCUMBER SALAD Serves 3–4 2 English cucumbers (1½ lb. total), unpeeled, sliced very thin 1 T coarse kosher salt ½ c. distilled white vinegar ¼ c. finely chopped fresh dill 2–3 T. sugar, or to taste ½ t. freshly ground black pepper 1 small onion, sliced thin

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Place the cucumber slices in a colander in the sink. Sprinkle with the salt and toss to coat. Let the cucumbers stand for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, make the dressing by stirring together the vinegar, dill, sugar and pepper in a large bowl until the sugar is dissolved. Drain the cucumbers well and pat dry. Add the cucumbers and the onion to the dressing and stir to blend. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or, even better, overnight. Serve cold.

Recommended pairings: Austin Beerworks Pearl Snap, 2012 Vietti Dolcetto d’Alba Tre Vigne and 2012 Chappellet Napa Valley Chardonnay

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COOKS! 2014

“Yeah, I just show up at people’s homes and make them dinner. And then sing. Yay!” —Michael Fracasso 20

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COOKS at home

MICHAEL FRACASSO BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

ntering Casa Fracasso is like walking into the home of

it was what we ate every day for half a semester, and then I was

cherished old friends: It’s inviting to its very core and full

like, Oh my God!”

of natural light, with a bunch of Gerbera daisies bright-

The shock of that diet vaulted Fracasso into reclaiming his

ening the dining table and colorful, local art splashed on the

family’s healthy obsession with good food, and he’s proven

walls. And it’s also modest and down-to-earth—like one could

himself to be a natural in the kitchen. “I just needed to find it

just endlessly hang out and any time that passed would slow to

was all,” he says of the love of cooking embedded in his DNA.

an unnoticed crawl. Except, of course, for today’s blur that

“It didn’t take me long.” Nowadays, the Fracassos’ cozy kitchen

is Michael Fracasso running around the backyard trying to

features open pantry shelves lined with mason jars of home-

wrangle lightning-fast chickens. It’s just one of the myriad tasks

canned tomatoes, oats, popcorn, lentils, buckwheat and most

required of this busy singer-songwriter, cooking-class instructor,

every staple required for a family of four that eats simply and

avid gardener and, most importantly, devoted husband to wife

healthfully. While preparing tonight’s dinner, Fracasso holds up

Paula, and parent and carpooler of Giovanni, 13 and Stella, 10.

a vintage metal potato ricer, which once belonged to his mom.

But while all that multitasking may be the reality for

“You can’t make gnocchi without one of these,” he says. “It

Fracasso—who has recorded eight records and published

makes [the potatoes] lighter. That’s the key thing about this. If

his own cookbook last year—there’s no frenetic energy at

you just mashed them, they get a compactness. Obviously you

play here. After reuniting the chickens—Sunflower, Ophelia

have to join them together, but starting out with this is a huge

and Stracciatella (the last named for a Roman-style egg drop

advantage.” As he rolls the dough into long, snake-like strands

soup)—he leisurely harvests a few things from the backyard,

and forms the gnocchi “pillows” on the tines of a fork, he rem-

which features a terraced, multi-roomed garden with a salvia-en-

inisces about his childhood involvement in the gnocchi-mak-

circled fountain and raised beds bursting (even in spite of the

ing, “This part,” he says of the pillows, “we were required to do

July heat) with tomatoes, squash, Swiss chard, basil, watermelon,

this.” And the legacy continues, because Fracasso’s kids help

eggplant, cucumbers and the all-important fennel, which is one

him in the same way—to an extent, anyway. “They want to help,

of the superstars in the classic Italian gnocchi dish he’s about to

at least for a while,” he says. “They’ll do one strand, and then

make.

they’ll say, Okay, thanks, Dad.”

Not surprisingly, Fracasso’s Italian heritage is integral to

While the gnocchi recipe is his mom’s—she taught him to

his love of gardening and cooking. His parents emigrated from

make it when he first moved to Austin more than 20 years ago—

southern Italy to a steel mill town in Ohio, called Mingo Junc-

the Gorgonzola cream sauce is his own invention. “The classic

tion. “They were basically subsistence farmers after World War

way of doing this dish in northern Italy is with sage and butter,”

Two,” Fracasso says. “And it was really, really poor there, so they

he says. “It is so, so good.” But Fracasso’s gnocchi sauce was in-

came over for work.” Throughout his childhood, his parents

spired by a pizza he once made, and he thought the combination

prepared massive amounts of Italian food, tended a huge garden

of Gorgonzola, fennel and tomatoes would pair well with the po-

and orchard and made their own wine—their house even had a

tato pasta. This natural ability to intuit and blend deep influenc-

room dedicated to storing home-canned food. “They instilled

es with fresh inspiration is a big part of Fracasso’s artistry, both

a love of nature and food in me, just by how they lived,” he

as a performer and as a cook. In fact, he uses it frequently all over

says. But while he and his siblings helped in the kitchen and the

the U.S. for his unique combo cooking/house concerts. Clients

garden, it wasn’t until he transferred to Ohio State University

choose from a menu of Fracasso’s Italian favorites, he prepares

as a junior that he taught himself to cook. “It was a BIG culture

the meals in their kitchens, and then he performs for the sated

shock,” he says. “I got there, and I lived in a house with five

guests after supper. Acknowledging that he’s living a dream with

other guys. One of them was the ‘cook’ but all he made was fish

this kind of gig, he says, “Yeah, I just show up at people’s homes

sticks and Hamburger Helper and I was horrified by the food—

and make them dinner. And then sing. Yay!”

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MICHAEL FRACASSO’S “HOUSE CONCERT, YAY!” GNOCCHI WITH GORGONZOLA CREAM SAUCE From “Artist in the Kitchen: A Brief Autobiography in Food,” by Michael Fracasso Serves 4–6 Special equipment needed: potato ricer For the gnocchi: 3 lb. medium Idaho or purple potatoes (It’s best not to use new potatoes, which contain too much starch) Vegetable oil 2 c. unbleached white flour 1 large egg 1 T. salt, plus a pinch Cornmeal

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Lightly coat the outside of the potatoes with a little vegetable oil or wrap them in aluminum foil (to prevent burning). Place them on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes to an hour at 350°. They should be soft to the touch. Peel the potatoes while they are still rather warm, then rice them into a large bowl. Create a well in the middle, add the egg and the pinch of salt, and mix. Sprinkle with the flour about ½ cup at a time— gently mixing to form a ball that is smooth but slightly sticky. Cut the dough into 8 pieces. On a floured surface, form each dough ball into a long dowel that’s about 2 feet long and about as thick as a ring finger. Cut into little pillows about 1 inch long. Place each pillow, one at a time, on the back of a fork, and while pressing on the pillow with the side of your thumb, roll it off the tines of the fork so that your thumb gives it a cleft and the fork adds ridges. Place the rolled pasta on a cookie sheet sprinkled with cornmeal. Bring 5 quarts of water to a boil in a large pasta pot. Add 1 tablespoon of salt, then carefully add the gnocchi so that they don’t splatter or stick together. When the gnocchi begin to float (after about 2 minutes), remove them with a slotted spoon and place in a serving bowl. Reserve ¼ cup of the pasta water and add it to the gnocchi. For the Gorgonzola cream sauce: 1 fennel bulb 1 28-oz. can whole San Marzano Italian tomatoes 1 T. olive oil 2 T. butter 1 shallot, peeled and slivered ½ t. salt ¼ t. white pepper ¼ t. anise extract or 2 T. anise-flavored liqueur (such as Sambuca) 3 oz. Gorgonzola cheese

*Sunday-Wednesday

200 Lavaca Street | Austin 78701 | traceaustin.com @traceatx 22

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Cut the frond end off the top of the fennel bulb and reserve for garnish. Place the flat side of the bulb down and cut the bulb in half, lengthwise. Make a V-shaped incision into each half to cut out and discard the hard inner core, then cut the halves into thin slices. Empty the can of tomatoes into a large bowl and smash the tomatoes with your hands to create a uniform, chunky texture. Heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet. Add the shallots and fennel slices and sauté for about 4 minutes until softened. Add the salt, pepper and tomatoes and sauté for about 20 minutes—stirring occasionally. Add the anise extract or liqueur and stir for another minute or so. Add the Gorgonzola and stir to melt. Remove from the heat, pour over the gnocchi and garnish with fennel fronds.

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“…being at home with Billie is my life. 24

COOKS! 2014

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COOKS at home

JODI ELLIOTT BY L AY N E LY N C H • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

odi Elliott is at the precipice of a major transformation in

whisking, mixing, baking, frosting and, of course, taste-testing

her life. And while many pastry chefs would leap at the

her assorted sweets and treats in their homey kitchen. Sur-

chance to command the sweet side of the menu at award-

rounded by various baby announcements and wedding invita-

ing-winning restaurants like Foreign & Domestic, Per Se and

tions from friends and family, hand-stitched Julia Child quotes

Gramercy Tavern, Elliott is putting those fine-dining days on the

on the wall and a fridge covered with Billie Van’s crayon cre-

back burner and returning to the refined basics with her upcom-

ations, the energetic mother likes to whip up quick favorites,

ing pastry shop and dessert bar, Bribery Bakery—named in hon-

such as hearty spaghetti with fresh-baked garlic bread, multi-

or of what she jokingly refers to as her favorite form of parenting.

layered green-chili chicken and creamy macaroni and cheese.

“When we started doing the bake sales at Foreign & Do-

But when a cocoa craving kicks in, Elliott prepares one of their

mestic, I learned that ease and simplicity was something that

favorite non-guilty pleasures: chocolate cake with vanilla but-

really resonated with people,” says Elliott. “Everyone connects

tercream and caramel sauce. “It’s one of the most satisfying

with desserts that remind them of family and things they can

dishes out there, and I’m never ever too full to eat a slice,”

make in their own home—things like cookies and cakes. That’s

she says. “It’s a dessert you never get tired of making because

what I want to do with Bribery—make these familiar desserts

there’s so many different ways you can prepare it.”

and pastries, and add my own spin.”

Special touches, such as Valrhona chocolate, set the soft,

The upcoming East Side space will feature both retail fare

creamy dessert apart from most other indulgent, homemade

and a dining area where guests can sip beverages, devour a se-

creations. But the greatest satisfaction for Elliott isn’t the fin-

lection of pastry treats and order from a menu of light savory

ished product—it’s guiding the rainbow-tutu-clad Billie as

dishes such as quiche and salads. What’s more, the space will

she carefully cracks eggs into a stainless-steel mixing bowl,

reopen at night as a dessert bar to serve craft cocktails and plat-

spreads frosting onto their topsy-turvy cake and drizzles mo-

ed desserts. And while sugar fiends around the city are no doubt

lasses-like layers of sauce onto the collaborative edible exper-

counting down the days until Elliott finally opens her dream,

iment. “Normally when I do interviews, they want to focus on

this gifted pastry chef isn’t in any rush to step away from the

the things I do in the restaurant,” she says. “But being at home

blissful baking sessions she’s immersed herself in lately with

with Billie is my life. This is who I really am.”

a certain bubbly 6-year-old girl—her daughter Billie Van, who

It’s this formula of family, comfort and memory-making

today stands by Elliott’s side atop a kitchen stool with a frost-

experiences that Elliott hopes to re-create in Bribery Bakery

ing-coated spatula in hand. “We like making desserts that are

when she finally opens the space in the coming months. “I want

absurdly simple, and what a lot of people don’t realize is that

it to be the type of place you can take your kid to during the day

the recipes on the cake box are pretty spot on,” says Elliott. “I

and then turn around and grab a cocktail at night with friends,”

love to take those recipes, build on them and focus instead on

she says. “If I can find the balance between those two dynamics,

using higher-quality ingredients and incorporating those extra

I’ll be happy.” And, of course, guests will find Elliott’s signature

meaningful touches that every cook has. And Billie helps me so

chocolate cake on Bribery’s menu, too—in several forms and

much. It’s been awesome to see her pick it up so fast.”

interpretations. “I think the real question is,” she ponders, “in

Elliott says she often calls upon Billie Van to aid her in

what world could chocolate cake ever not be on the menu?”

This is who I really am.” —Jodi Elliott EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

Offering tastings for private parties, corporate events & date nights.

4220 Duval Street | (512) 531-9610

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Gluten Free and Vegan Friendly! 512.912.6784 spoonandco.com INFO@spoonandco.com 26

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JODI ELLIOTT’S CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH BUTTERCREAM FROSTING AND CARAMEL SAUCE Makes 1 cake For the cake: 2 c. sugar 1¾ c. all-purpose flour ¾ c. dark, unsweetened cocoa powder (Valrhona or Ghirardelli) 1½ t. baking powder

1½ t. baking soda 1½ t. salt 2 eggs 1 c. milk ½ c. vegetable oil 1 T. vanilla extract 1 c. boiling water

Heat the oven to 350°. Grease and flour two 9-inch round baking pans. Stir together the sugar, flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Add the eggs, milk, oil and vanilla and beat with a mixer on medium speed for 2 minutes. Stir in the boiling water (the batter will be thin). Pour the batter into the prepared pans. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes, then turn the cakes out onto a wire rack. Cool completely. For the buttercream: 5 large egg whites 1 c. + 2 T. sugar Pinch salt

1 lb. (4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons, room temperature 1½ t. pure vanilla extract

Combine the egg whites, sugar and salt in the detached, heatproof bowl of a stand mixer set over a pan of simmering water. Whisk constantly by hand until the mixture is warm to the touch and the sugar has dissolved (the mixture should feel completely smooth when rubbed between your fingertips). Attach the bowl to the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Starting on low and gradually increasing to medium-high speed, whisk until stiff (but not dry) peaks form. Continue mixing until the mixture is fluffy and glossy and completely cool (test by touching the bottom of the bowl)—about 10 minutes. With mixer on medium-low speed, add the butter a few tablespoons at a time—mixing well after each addition. Once all of the butter has been added, whisk in the vanilla. Switch to the paddle attachment and continue beating on low speed until all of the air bubbles are eliminated—about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of bowl with a flexible spatula and continue beating until the frosting is completely smooth. Keep the buttercream at room temperature if using the same day. Refrigerate any unused frosting. For the caramel sauce: 1½ c. sugar ½ c. water 1 c. heavy whipping cream

1½ oz. (3 T.) unsalted butter 1 t. vanilla extract 1 t. salt

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Stir together the sugar and the water in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. (Brush the insides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to eliminate any sugar sticking to the sides). Increase the temperature to high heat and cook, without stirring, until the sugar is amber-colored—about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Wearing oven mitts, slowly add a little bit of the cream, but be careful: The caramel will sputter as the cream is added. Using a wooden spoon or heat-resistant spatula, stir the cream into the caramel. If the cream sputters, stop stirring. Let the bubbles subside and then stir again. Carefully add the remaining cream and stir until combined. Let cool slightly (it should still be warm) and whisk in the butter, salt and vanilla. The sauce will keep refrigerated for weeks, if it lasts that long. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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COOKS at home

EDDIE RODRIGUEZ BY R H E A M A Z E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

f there’s one thing Representative Eddie Rodriguez loves

domino in the aforementioned inspiring conversations over

more than eating good food, it’s talking about good food.

dinner. “She explained to me the model of trying to locally

Founder and chair of the Texas House Farm-to-Table Cau-

source as much as possible,” he says. “I was fascinated with

cus—the first of its kind in the nation—Rodriguez’s passion

the whole concept.” When she mentioned the farmers with

for supporting and connecting people to the local food scene

whom she worked, Rodriguez was surprised to learn that

is contagious. And, naturally, it all came to be by way of a

many were from his district, but he had never heard of them.

couple of inspiring conversations over dinner—but we’ll get to those in a minute. Right now, Rodriguez and his wife of two years, Christine

and wine. “I just listened to them,” he says. “If you’ve ever

Garrison, are whipping up a batch of pesto in the kitchen of

known a farmer, you know they’re very opinionated people

their 100-year-old minimalist farmhouse. With the original

who tell you exactly what they think.” They expressed that

wood walls painted white, unfinished floors that gave them

there was too much bureaucratic red tape hindering their

splinters before they put down rugs, and steel countertops,

ability to make a living providing healthier food for people.

the kitchen is a cozy blend of classic old and polished new.

Rodriguez took their ideas to heart.

But what Rodriguez loves most about it is its treasure trove of spices.

Intrigued, Rodriguez invited several farmers from Travis County to a roundtable discussion over cured meats, cheese

He later joined Representative David Simpson and Congressman Marc Veasey for a pre-session dinner, and the three

“Last year we made our first batch of this homemade pes-

of them began talking more about food issues. “We agreed on

to with basil, pecans and jalapeños,” Rodriguez says. “I added

just about every single thing,” Rodriguez says. “It dawned on

the jalapeños. Being from South Texas, I like to add a little

me that food is not Republican or Democrat, it’s not conserva-

spice—just enough to give it a kick, but not so much that the

tive or liberal. It’s just food. Everyone likes the idea of helping

kids won’t like it.”

a farmer out.”

Since becoming a stepfather to Sophie, 8, and Jack, 10, Ro-

Rodriguez left the dinner determined to do something, and

driguez has had to adjust to life with kids’ palates. Gone are the

the Farm-to-Table Caucus was born. Now two years old and

days of making his signature date-night dish of Brussels sprouts

28 members strong, the caucus has remained bipartisan and

with bacon and blue cheese for Christine at his bachelor pad.

representative of both rural and urban populations—largely

“I went from being able to cook whatever I wanted to having

thanks to Rodriguez’s watchful eye. “The caucus is the prod-

to cook things that kids like,” he says. Sophie, who doesn’t like

uct of a food movement happening all around the country, as

pine nuts, inspired the pesto’s pecan twist (which gives it just

well as here in Texas, and I’m very proud of it,” he says.

a hint of sweetness), and the current mash-up of Christine’s

Working to address issues such as childhood obesity and

green thumb and talent for fresh cooking, the kids’ preferences

the food desert situation in Texas by making it less bur-

and a bit of spice from Rodriguez seems a fitting representation

densome for small producers to do what they do has also

of the homey amalgamation that is their new life chapter.

strengthened Rodriguez’s love of garden-fresh greens. “I’m

Rodriguez has always been a foodie in the sense that he

from McAllen, deep-south Texas,” he says. “Growing up, we

enjoys good food and knows good-quality food when he tastes

didn’t eat chard or kale or mustard greens. Now we have a

it, but it’s only been in the past few years that he’s become

green of that sort with dinner every night.”

deeply passionate about food issues. That journey began

For Rodriguez, the family pesto brings it all home. “It’s

when a friend took him to East Side Showroom, introduced

fresh, green, light and straight from the garden,” he says. “It

him to former Executive Chef Sonya Coté and tipped the first

reminds me of my family and what we have together.”

COOKS! 2014

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EDDIE AND CHRISTINE’S AMALGAM PESTO Makes about 3 cups 30–40 fresh basil leaves, washed ¹/³ c. olive oil 5 garlic cloves, peeled ½ c. pecans

1 fresh jalapeño, chopped 1¼ c. grated Parmesan cheese Salt, to taste Lukewarm water

Place the basil in a food processor and chop—adding the olive oil slowly to help the process. Use a spatula to move any stray leaves closer to the chopping action until all leaves are tiny. Add the garlic, pecans and jalapeño and process until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Lastly, add the Parmesan cheese and salt and continue to blend—adding water as needed if the mixture becomes too thick. Rodriguez suggests serving the pesto on whole wheat bowtie pasta with extra Parmesan cheese on top. Leftover pesto can be frozen and thawed for future meals.

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PEOPLE

PAINT IT YELLOW BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY C H R I ST I A N R E M D E

From left: Paul Qui, Peelander-Yellow, Moto Utsunomiya

COOKS! 2014

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“East Side King kicked my art door open… Woo!” —Peelander-Yellow

ou won’t ever get a straight answer out of Peeland-

to the states to become a visual artist, but those plans soon

er-Yellow. Ask him why everybody in his band, Pee-

changed. “I come to New York for art but I got a lot of stress,”

lander-Z, is color-coded (Peelander-Blue, Peeland-

he says. “I want to scream something! Ayiyiyiyi!” He thought

er-Green, Peelander-Purple, etc.) and he replies this way:

music might suit him better, but the first Peelander-Z show

“We need to get a new idea…Peelander-Zebra…Peeland-

in 1998 didn’t go over very well. “Everybody cannot under-

er-Dot…Peelander-Rainbow…Peelander-Train…Peeland-

stand because I’m not good musician,” he recalls. “So I started

er-Andre-the-Giant. We can make something new. We have

Power Ranger costumes for the band, then other older-style

an all-over choice. Peelander-Lion…Peelander-Dentist!”

eighties art. So we mix the music with art.”

And if given the chance, he’ll go on and on about how his

Peelander-Z shows soon evolved into performance art

“Japanese-action-comic-punk” band hails from the Z area

pieces involving giant squids and tigers, human bowling,

of the planet Peelander, how their insane costumes are ac-

leaps from impossible heights, piggyback rides, fake chair

tually their real skin or how it feels to win a professional

fights, lots of cue cards for the audience and, oh yeah, music.

wrestling title by taking down wrestler Nick Mayberry in

The Peelanders first reduced a South by Southwest stage to

the middle of a show and then continuing with the music

rubble in 2003, and have made Austin a regular stop ever

set. But ask him to reveal the secret location of his favor-

since. In recent years, they’ve also drawn Austin’s old and

ite fishing spot on Lady Bird Lake and he goes mum. Then

young alike with Mad Tiger Fest, where the band crams on-

ask him why he even likes fishing in the first place. “I want

stage with the likes of The Octopus Project, assorted high

to make a fishing tournament in Austin. Springtime good

school bands and any children in the audience who aren’t

time…and maybe singing and comedy…we need a beer com-

laughing or crying too much to take Yellow's guitar off his

pany sponsor!”

hands. “They understand my world,” he says of his younger

Like his answers, Yellow and his banana Laffy-Taffy mane

fans.

are all over the place these days. He’s as likely to pop up on

As much as he loves these antics, Yellow jumped at the

any stage in Austin as he is in the paint section of Home

chance to paint again when East Side King co-owners Paul

Depot looking like a human-sized swatch of BEHR Premium

Qui and Moto Utsunomiya asked him to design their trailer

Plus Lemon Souffle. His murals are all over the place, too—

behind Liberty Bar. Things sped along like a human bowling

in restaurants such as Qui and at East Side King’s food trail-

ball from there: more trailers, then restaurants (including

ers and the Do512 Lounge—alive with the intricate squig-

Qui’s namesake, Qui), homes and offices all around Austin,

gles of a fevered imagination.

as well as in New York and Chicago. “East Side King kicked

Austinites will be pardoned, then, for assuming Yellow

my art door open,” he says, adding, “Woo!”

lives here. He actually just visits several times a year from

Qui says he and Utsunomiya chose Yellow as their artist

New York City, where he emigrated from Japan way back

for his personality—a facet that has seeped into every corner

when he went by the earthly name of Kengo Hioki. He came

of East Side King. “His art definitely inspires our restaurants’

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Custom & From Scratch!

Cakes | Sculpted Designs Small Bites | Cake Bars Cupcakes | Popper Shots

4201 S. Congress #101 512.797.7367

Gluten Free Available!

bluenotebakery.com

Menu back art detail for Qui, by Peelander-Yellow

concepts—from our tables, business cards, web pages, to the overall feel of East Side King,” says Qui. “Our guests have loved his characters, and we get people that come in just to admire his art.” Now that Yellow’s making the kind of art he set out to do years ago, he wants to branch out to other mediums—lots of other mediums. “I want to make movie,” he says. “I want to make magic show like David Copperfield…I need a white tiger…I want to make Broadway…I want to make TV show…I want to get big trailer and put everything inside and fly to the moon.” Then he starts giggling. Somewhere in all these plans, he’d also like to open a curry noodle restaurant in Austin. Think Peelander-Z with food. “One day, I make all pink-food special!” he says. “Next day, all greenfood special! Everybody on staff with Peelander costumes! Building look like starship…sometimes it moves a little bit!” On the more modest end of this fantasy, Yellow dreams of moving to Austin and buying a boat so he can go fishing at his secret spot on Lady Bird Lake. “I restarted my art life with Austin,” he says. “That’s why it’s very important place for me.” In the meantime, he still has plenty of shows to play, stages to leap from, chairs to throw and wrestlers to defeat as a rock demi-god. “We want to try to open new door with Peelander-Z,” he says. “Story’s never-ending. I never see my brain, but if you can open my brain, you will see future.” 32

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BLOODY MARY No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.

Wine Enthusiast RATINGS

SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

PTS

VEGGIES

created by:

WENDY JO PETERSON

justwendyjo.com

★ 3 plum tomatoes,

chopped ★ 2 celery stalks, chopped ★ 10 green olives ★ 2 cloves garlic, minced ★ 1 tsp. tamari sauce ★ 1 tsp. Lea & Perrins Worchestershire Sauce ★ ¼ cup Tito’s Handmade Vodka

In a glass bowl or serving dish, mix together vegetables with garlic, tamari, Worchestershire sauce and Tito’s Handmade Vodka. Allow vegetables to marinate in the refrigerator for at least one hour. It’s that simple!

Two of Austin's most versatile downtown event spaces for parties up to 1000 people

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COOKS toolbox

HIS AND HERS MUST-HAVE KITCHEN TOOLS BY B E N A N D A N N E D G E RTO N

Ben Edgerton is the co-owner of Contigo Austin, Contigo Catering and Gardner. Ann Edgerton is the owner of Ann Lowe Design.

rom the time that Ann and I met and developed a friendship, began dating, fell in love and got married, there have been a few constant themes in our relationship. One of the most consistent has been our mutual fondness for hospitality and entertaining. Ann is definitely the cook; as an interior dec-

orator and former caterer, everything she creates is delicious as well as beautifully presented. And while I enjoy cooking, I have gladly taken my place as the Edgerton Family Beverage Director. These are some of the tools we love to use, even if we’re just entertaining each other.

HIS

SEAMLESS YARAI MIXING GLASS. Before we opened Contigo, I enrolled myself in David Alan’s Tipsy Tech. This 12-week intensive course on spirits and cocktails opened my eyes to the history of beverages. I have never viewed cocktails the same way since, and I love using this mixing glass to stir up a pre-meal drink. It’s the perfect combination of form and function.

CHEMEX COFFEE MAKER. I have consumed coffee

since high school; I even worked as a barista in college. However, I feel as though I truly discovered coffee at Houndstooth. Sean Henry and his team have a passion for coffee that I feel fortunate to experience on a regular basis. When I can’t make it to Houndstooth, I use my Chemex to make Ann coffee in the mornings. I find great joy in the methodical process of pour-over coffee. 34

COOKS! 2014

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TWO-INCH ICE CUBE TRAYS. There are two reasons I love using these ice cube trays. One is scientific: Large ice cubes have less surface area than the equivalent amount of small cubes, therefore they don't melt in your drink as quickly. The other is purely emotional: Big ice cubes are sexy. These are great to keep in the freezer for a cocktail or a whiskey on the rocks.

MASON JARS BY BALL. I like to experiment and Ball jars are the perfect vessel for many of my little projects. Infused spirits, homemade bitters and liqueurs, and even some ferments all work great in various-sized mason jars. I keep them on hand at all times.

HERS

here’s a quote by William Morris that I live by: “Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful.” This certainly holds true for the kitchen, as well.

MARBLE MORTAR AND PESTLE.

When I first began a relationship with cooking, I spent hours reading cookbooks from front to back. One of the most influential books for me was “Sunday Suppers at Lucques,” by Suzanne Goin. In it, she uses her mortar and pestle for many different things, from crushing garlic to making a quick salsa verde. This technique stuck with me, and now I couldn’t live without one. There is something really satisfying about the smell and feel of crushing up your own sauce.

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LE CREUSET FRENCH OVEN. Ben and I love cooking one-pot meals, and whether it’s a simple summer vegetable green curry or an all-day lamb stew, this pot—commonly referred to as a Dutch oven—does it all. And Le Creuset cookware comes in such wonderful colors, it looks lovely sitting out on the stove even when not in use.

HANDHELD MANDOLINE. This piece of equipment is not exactly beautiful to look at, but what comes out of it is. This thing does what I simply cannot do with a knife. I love very thinly sliced radishes tossed with butter lettuce and French vinaigrette, or a shaved fennel salad with olives and a squeeze of orange. A handheld mandoline makes these fresh salads easier, more delicious and more beautiful.

APRON BY FOG LINEN. I bring this with me

everywhere I cook. There is something about putting on an apron that makes me feel like, “OK, now it’s time to get serious.” This particular apron is made from Lithuanian linen by a Japanese company. The fabric only gets better and better with time, and the print hides the numerous stains I am sure it has accumulated over the years. I hang it on a hook in my kitchen for a nice splash of pattern.

RESOURCES CALLAHAN’S GENERAL STORE 501 Bastrop Hwy. 512-385-3452 callahansgeneralstore.com

Photography of Ben and Ann by Wynn Myers

DER KÜCHEN LADEN 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg 830-997-4937 littlechef.com

FARADAY’S KITCHEN STORE 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540 512-266-5666 faradayskitchenstore.com MÉTIER COOKS SUPPLY 1805 South First Street 512-276-2605 metieraustin.com COOKS! 2014

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MISSION RESTAURANT SUPPLY 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-389-1705 missionrs.com SERVE GOURMET GADGETS & GOODS 241 W. 3rd St. 512-480-0171 servegourmet.com SPARTAN 215 South Lamar 512-579-0303 spartan-shop.com

Get Ready for a Festive Fall! Two Full Days of Free, Fun Events! Saturday, Sept. 27th Le Creuset Signature Colors Extravaganza Saturday, Oct. 11th Wusthof 200th Anniversary Octoberfest

EXCLUSIVE 1958 Raymond Loewy Dutch Oven

Visit www.faradayskitchenstore.com for more information.

Shops at the Galleria in Bee Cave â&#x20AC;˘ 512-266-5666

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7/24/2014 2014 10:12:21 AM 37 COOKS!

edible BIZ

THE ROAD TO BRICK-AND-MORTAR BY K R I ST I W I L L I S

any chefs have dreams to open their own restaurants,

Diners then complete detailed surveys about the meal, and the

but the road from an idea to a successful, bustling

highest-rated chef and city over the course of the tour will

business is rife with speed bumps—any of which can

determine where Dinner Lab’s restaurant will be and who will

bottom out the project. Chefs must navigate a constantly shift-

be the lucky chef at the helm. “We wanted to take the guess-

ing maze of city regulation and permitting, unavoidable con-

work out of opening a restaurant,” says Dinner Lab CEO Brian

struction delays and stiff competition.

Bordainick. “People flew before radar, and that sort of worked.

In today’s market, a developed and proven cuisine con-

But then there was a better way.”

cept is necessary on the road to starting a restaurant—a tough

But even with a highly successful concept, chefs going the

test for an unopened business. To create buzz and prove their

traditional path to brick-and-mortar still have to figure out how

chops, pre-restaurant, many food entrepreneurs have turned to

to pay the tab to bring their vision to life. Most banks are un-

farmers markets, food trucks and other informal, less expen-

willing to lend the $500,000 to $1 million it takes to start a new

sive routes to get the word out and build their customer base:

place unless someone involved in the project has significant

Salt & Time Butcher Shop and Salumeria, The Mediterranean

collateral to guarantee against the loan. Instead, restaurateurs

Chef Cafe, Odd Duck and countless others who wisely started

often turn to private investors in return for shares of equity in

on a small scale and worked themselves into a building.

the business.

Some chefs are trying out new ideas, such as Dinner Lab

The Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) carefully

(operating in Austin and nine other cities around the country)

regulates who can invest in a business by requiring the majority

to help them accelerate the proof-testing process and hope-

of funding to be from accredited investors—people who have

fully fulfill their dreams. Over the course of 10 weeks, nine

a personal net worth of more than $1 million or have earned a

guest chefs will host a dinner in each of Dinner Lab’s markets.

minimum of $200,000 in income for at least two years in a row.

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Businesses are also limited by how many nonaccredited inves-

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tors they can turn to—often cutting off resources from family and friends. Of course, since not everyone has access to people with deep pockets, organizations such as Slow Money and angel investment groups help connect small businesses with accredited investors. A growing number of restaurant-hopefuls are also turning to crowdfunding tools, such as Kickstarter and Indiegogo, which

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not only bypass the SEC requirements but help raise money from the public by promising rewards or benefits instead of shares in the company. Greenman Consulting, an Austin-based food-and-beverage consulting group, started a local version of the crowdfunding model and recently helped Noble Sandwich

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Co. raise $10,000 to restore a vintage Dr. Pepper sign at its new Burnet Road location. And Salt & Time turned to Kickstarter to raise the rest of the cash for its build-out when a private loan via Slow Money fell a bit short. “We didn’t want to go buy bar stools when we believe so strongly in sustainability and local sourcing,” says co-owner Ben Runkle. “Kickstarter was a way to get a little extra money that we could invest in making sure we

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worked with people who take the same pride in their work that we do, and it mobilized our customers to spread the word about the opening, which was a great side benefit.”

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Yet, even though the current crowdfunding model works well to close gaps, Brian Stubbs of Greenman Consulting points out that no one expects to fund an entire restaurant concept that way. Fortunately, the SEC is crafting regulations for a new investment

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method called “equity crowdfunding” that would allow unaccredited investors to receive equity in the business instead of T-shirts and other perks. The current proposal would permit a business to raise up to $1 million via smaller increments, such as $500 or $1,000. “Equity crowdfunding could be really exciting for the industry because independently owned restaurants fall right in that initial startup cost range,” says Stubbs. Of course, once a restaurant’s concept is solid, the financing is in place and the doors are open, maintaining a steady cash

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flow is the next challenge. Chefs Jessica Maher and Todd Duplechan of Lenoir turned to a membership model often used

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by farms and other businesses to ensure a regular customer base. Through their community-supported restaurant (CSR) program, diners can buy an annual membership at the $1,000, $2,500 or $5,000 level and receive a minimum of 20 percent return on their investment. “The CSR program has given us a cash infusion so that we can improve the restaurant,” says Maher. “It’s a mutually beneficial loyalty program; the diner gets a discount, reservation priority and other benefits, and we get a cash boost at the beginning of the year and the exposure to new customers when members bring their friends with them—maybe one of the best benefits of the program for us.” Whether it’s perfecting a concept, funding a startup or keeping things flowing smoothly after opening, local chefs are being called upon to be as creative on the business side of the house as they are in the kitchen, in order to turn their dreams into reality. Luckily for us, many continue to successfully answer that call. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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cooking BASICS

THE ART OF DEEP-FRYING BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N

ho doesn’t love fried food? Some might even reason

the stovetop. If you don’t have one, though, a quart of oil in a

that many of the South’s favorite foods—chicken,

five-quart Dutch oven and a deep-fry thermometer will do the

okra, potatoes, onion rings, turkey, pickles, crab

trick. Maintaining the oil’s temperature is critical, because if

cakes, oysters, catfish and shrimp—are even better when

the temperature is too low, the oil will seep into the foods and

fried. Yet, deep-frying remains confusing and intimidating

they will become soggy instead of crisp. If the oil is too hot,

to many home cooks. The process does require a bit of skill,

the foods will become overcooked on the outside and under-

but the key is the right combination of breading, or battering,

cooked on the inside.

technique and the proper temperature of the fat in which the

When foods are added to the hot fat, the sudden high heat

food is fried. And though some might cringe at the large pot

turns moisture on the surface of the food into steam. This

of fat needed for deep-frying, the good news is that by using

steam rushes out and sizzles. Then, moisture from the cen-

the right temperature and timing, the absorption of fat into

ter of the food moves toward the outside to replace the water

the food can be kept to a minimum. When all is in harmony,

that’s been lost. As the steam slows down, the surface of the

the essential juices of the food stay sealed inside the flavorful

food heats up and begins to brown—creating a crisp barrier

golden crust and the oil is prevented from seeping inside.

that’s difficult for the oil to penetrate. A tiny bit of the oil seeps

The best way to successfully deep-fry is to use a readily

into some of the steam channels—raising the temperature of

available and reasonably priced countertop deep-fryer. These

the food just enough to heat the remaining moisture, and caus-

devices have a thermostat that helps maintain a steady fry-

ing the food to swell and cook through without becoming sog-

ing temperature, and they also prevent messy splatters on

gy. Temperatures for deep-frying range from 350 degrees to

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390 degrees, and the smaller the pieces of food being fried, the higher the temperature at which they should be cooked. Choose oil with a neutral flavor to avoid affecting the flavor of the food or the seasoning in the breading or batter. Oil with a high smoke point is also important; the smoke/flash point of the oil should be higher than the temperature at which the food will be cooked. Canola oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, corn oil and grapeseed oil are good choices for frying. Also, never use the same oil to fry more than once because water and protein particles escape into the oil and degrade its quality. Even oil with a high flash point can be broken down by one use and its flash point lowered by over 100 degrees. Make sure that foods are patted very dry before battering or breading—excess moisture will interfere with the frying process. And always fry in manageable batches to avoid crowding the oil and radically dropping its temperature. To prevent the batter or breading from falling off the food when it’s added to the oil, use a triple-stage method of battering/breading to ensure that the crust adheres. To do this, first dredge the food in a seasoned flour mixture (I like to use self-rising flour for an extra bit of “puff”). Then dip it in a milk and egg wash (I like to use equal parts of whole milk and whole, full-fat buttermilk). Finally, dredge it once again either in the seasoned flour, or into a mixture of seasoned cornmeal, breadcrumbs or panko breadcrumbs. Shake off any excess flour, egg wash and final batter after each step, and use one hand for dredging the foods in the dry ingredients and the other hand for the egg wash. This will avoid getting the egg wash into the dry mixes, which creates messy lumps, and also avoids battering your hands with more batter than the food! Much has been written about properly draining deep-fried foods to keep them crisp—some recipes even call for draining on brown grocery bags. The most important thing to remember, though, is good air circulation. Before frying the food, set a wire rack over a baking sheet. As you remove food from the hot oil, place it on the rack and it will drain while remaining crisp.

TEMPURA-STYLE BATTER Makes enough for 1 lb. of food Tempura-style frying results in an airy, puffed crust. The batter includes a leavening agent such as baking powder or cornstarch, and the food is battered in a one-step process. This type of frying is great for small, thin-cut vegetables, green beans, thin fish fillets and shrimp. 1 c. all-purpose flour 1 T. cornstarch 1½ c. ice-cold sparkling mineral water 1 t. kosher salt Combine all ingredients and whisk to blend, but don’t overmix; a few small lumps are okay. Make the batter just before frying the food. Pat the food completely dry, then dip into the batter—coating well—and add to oil heated to 360°. Cook for 2 minutes, then drain on a wire rack set over a baking sheet

CRISPY SHRIMP WITH TARTAR SAUCE Serves 4–6 For the tartar sauce: 1½ c. good-quality real mayonnaise (or made from scratch) 1½ T. drained sweet-pickle relish 1 T. minced, drained capers 1½ T. minced flat-leaf parsley leaves 1½ T. minced green onions, white and green parts 1½ t. Dijon-style mustard For the shrimp: 2 lb. large gulf shrimp (16–20 count), peeled (leave the end of the tail shell section intact), deveined 1 qt. canola, safflower or grapeseed oil, heated to 375° 2½ c. self-rising flour 2 t. paprika 2 t. granulated garlic 2 t. kosher salt 2 t. freshly ground black pepper

1 t. cayenne pepper 1½ c. whole milk 1½ c. whole (not low-fat) buttermilk 2 large eggs 1 T. Tabasco 2 c. panko breadcrumbs 1 c. cornmeal 1½ T. Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Seafood Magic Seasoning Blend or other Cajun-style seasoning mix Lemon wedges for serving

Make the tartar sauce ahead of time by combining all of the ingredients in a bowl and whisking to blend well. Let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Serve at room temperature. Butterfly the clean shrimp by using a sharp paring knife to slit the shrimp open—starting at the top and following the indentation where the vein was removed and continuing down until meeting the tail section shell. Make the cut go almost all the way through the shrimp, but leave an ample “hinge” so that the sides stay together. Combine the self-rising flour, paprika, garlic, salt, pepper and cayenne in a flat baking dish—whisking to distribute seasonings well. In a bowl, whisk together the milk, buttermilk, eggs and Tabasco—blending well and making sure the eggs are thoroughly beaten. Combine the panko breadcrumbs, cornmeal and Seafood Magic in a second shallow baking dish—whisking to combine well and evenly distribute the cornmeal and seasoning. Pat the shrimp very dry using absorbent paper towels. Dredge the shrimp first in the seasoned flour mixture, shaking off all excess. Next, dip the shrimp into the egg wash—coating well. Let the excess batter drip off, then press the shrimp into the panko mixture—opening up the “butterfly” and coating well on both sides. Shake off all excess. Place the shrimp on a baking sheet, not touching, after each is battered. Drop the shrimp into the hot oil about 6 at a time and cook until golden brown—about 2 minutes per batch. Turn out each batch onto a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Repeat until all of the shrimp are fried. Serve hot with the tartar sauce and lemon wedges.

FIND ADDITIONAL RECIPE AT EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM: THE ULTIMATE FRENCH FRIES Edible Austin and BookPeople present: Terry Thompson-Anderson signs her newest book, "Texas on the Table: People, Places, and Recipes Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State," at BookPeople on Thursday, October 30, featuring food and drink tastings from the book. Details at edibleaustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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cooking BASICS

CORN TORTILLAS BY I L I A N A D E L A V EGA A N D I SA B E L TO R R E A L BA

hough basic in nature, the tortilla is a foundational el-

is formed into small balls (the size of the ball depends on how

ement of Mexican cuisine and culture and worthy of

big you want the tortilla to be) called testales, which are then

culinary significance and respect. Of course, tortillas

flattened into rounds. In the early days, the flattening process

are not foreign to American cuisine, yet for such a common

was extremely time-consuming; it was done by shaping the

food item, lack of understanding still exists. A tortilla is a flat,

balls with a fast, synchronized, 180-degree rotation of both

round disk made from corn dough or wheat flour. Both kinds

hands in opposite directions until round, thin and even disks

are frequently used in Mexican food, but the latter is tradi-

were formed. This required large amounts of dexterity and

tionally, and most commonly, used in the northern states of

practice, and it was commonly said that a woman was ready to

Mexico. For this article, we will focus only on the corn tortilla.

marry once she could make a perfect tortilla.

The origin of the corn tortilla goes back to pre-Hispanic

Luckily for us, the same results can now be achieved with a

times, when the Aztecs initially referred to it as tlaxcalli. The

tortilla press and some thin, DIY plastic circles. Simply cut the

corn masa, or dough, was shaped into various sizes and al-

plastic (the sides of a plastic zip-close bag work well) into two

ways made from corn that had been nixtamalized (a process

circles matching the size of the press. Cover the press with a

whereby dry corn kernels are soaked and cooked in an alkaline

plastic circle, place a masa ball in the middle, cover with the

solutionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;typically limewaterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;making them softer, easier to

other plastic circle, close the press and add some pressure.

digest and more nutritious). Tortillas, tamales and many other

Open the press, carefully remove the top sheet and place the

products were made from this corn masa.

tortilla over the palm of your hand by lifting it with the bottom

To make modern-day corn tortillas, the same type of masa 42

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sheet. Remove the other plastic circle and follow the instruc-

tions below to properly cook the fresh tortilla. Since making the masa from scratch is quite labor-intensive, many use the commercial kind (such as the Maseca

MASA NIXTAMALIZADA (MASA MADE FROM NIXTAMALIZED CORN)

brand), which is fairly good and makes a very decent tortilla.

Makes about 2½ pounds

To make them this way, follow the recipe and let the dough

This is the recipe we use at our restaurant, El Naranjo.

rest for 10 minutes inside a covered plastic bowl (use a damp, clean kitchen towel to cover). After 10 minutes, check to make sure the masa is properly hydrated by forming a small ball and pressing your thumb against the center of the ball. If the edges crack, the masa is too dry; if it sticks to your hand, it’s too wet. The correct consistency should resemble that of play dough. Now let’s discuss some of the common “don’ts” of corn tortilla making. Corn tortillas should never be made using cornmeal or kernels from sweet corn; always use nixtamalized corn masa made from field corn (also commonly referred to as dent corn). Never add salt or oil to the masa, and never cook tortillas on a grill or reheat in the microwave. Instead, use a comal (a kind of cast-iron plate typically used for tortillas) or a flat griddle. Once the tortilla is placed on the comal, don’t lift it before at least 30 to 40 seconds have passed or it will break. Lastly, if using store-bought tortillas, avoid those that are sweet or feel cakey, and those that are not pliable enough to fold without breaking. ¡Buen provecho!

HOW TO COOK A FRESH TORTILLA

2.2 lb. dried field corn kernels, white or blue 1½ T. dried limestone 1 c. + 3 L. water, divided Remove any dirt from the corn. Mix the limestone with 1 cup of the water and stir to dissolve (this is known as “slaked lime”). Place the 3 liters of water in a stockpot, mix in the slaked lime and taste it—it should be slightly bitter. Add the picked-over corn, bring to a boil, boil for 40 minutes, then taste a corn kernel—it should be slightly soft on the outside and still uncooked in the center. Remove from the heat and let the corn rest in a warm place overnight (or for about 8 hours). The next day, drain the water and rinse the corn under cold running water, rubbing it with your hands to loosen some of the outer skin of the kernels. Grind the corn in a grain grinder (using a metate or hand or electric mill) while still wet, and add small amounts of water during the grinding process as needed. If using a metate or a hand grinder, you may need to pass the masa twice to get a fine masa (soft in texture, similar to play dough).

SOPA DE TORTILLA (TORTILLA SOUP) Serves 6

Regardless of whether you make your own masa or use storebought, here’s how to cook a fresh tortilla: Preheat a comal or other flat griddle to medium-high heat. Carefully slide the pressed tortilla over the heated comal and cook for at least 30 to 40 seconds. Flip with a thin spatula, cook another 30 to 40 seconds, then flip again and cook for an additional 20 or so seconds. The top layer of the tortilla should start separating from the bottom layer, making a large bubble in the middle of the tortilla—this is a good sign! (A good tortilla should puff on the top side, and if it’s being used for a taco, the fillings should be placed on the side that puffs to prevent the taco from falling apart). Do not overcook the tortillas or they will be dry and hard. It is always better to enjoy a freshly cooked tortilla straight off the comal, but you can also keep your tortillas warm by wrapping them in a damp cloth and then aluminum foil, and placing them in an oven set to a very low temperature of 170°.

TORTILLAS DE MASA HARINA (TORTILLAS MADE FROM STORE-BOUGHT CORN MASA FLOUR) Makes 30 tortillas 4 c. masa harina flour 3 c. warm water Place the corn masa flour in a large bowl and slowly add the warm water. Hand-knead the masa for about 5 to 8 minutes. The masa should feel like soft play dough and should be slightly warmer than your body. Let the masa rest, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Form the masa into 30 equal-size balls. Press each ball in a tortilla press and cook according to the instructions above.

½ white onion, peeled 2 garlic cloves, unpeeled 4 Roma tomatoes, whole ½ c. canola oil, divided 1½ qt. chicken broth 3 sprigs fresh epazote, tied with a string

Garnishes 2 pasilla chilies, whole 6 stale corn tortillas, cut into strips 1 firm avocado, peeled and cubed ½ c. diced queso fresco

Dry-roast the onion, garlic and tomatoes on a comal over medium-high heat. Once the garlic skin begins to brown, remove from the heat, peel and discard the papery skin. Puree the roasted vegetables in a blender (do not add water). Heat ¼ cup of the canola oil in a stockpot and fry the pureed tomato mixture until it changes color. Add the chicken broth and epazote. Season with salt and bring soup to a simmer, then reduce heat to low to keep warm. Slice the pasilla chilies crossways to make ½-inch thick rings, then shake the rings to remove the seeds. Heat the remaining ¼ cup of oil in a skillet. The oil should be very hot, but not smoking. Add the sliced chilies, turn off the heat and remove at once with a slotted spoon. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil (this step has to be done very quickly to prevent the chilies from burning). Working in batches, fry the tortilla strips in the chili-infused oil, then drain on paper towels to remove excess oil. Remove the epazote sprigs from the soup, divide the fried tortillas among 6 soup bowls, ladle in the tomato-flavored broth and serve with sides of cubed avocado, diced queso fresco and the pasilla chilies.

FIND ADDITIONAL RECIPES AT EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM: TACOS DORADOS DE PAPA SALSA VERDE CON AGUACATE EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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cooking BASICS

SAUSAGE BY Z AC K N O RT H C U T T • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O E L

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“…all that’s really needed [to make sausage] are quality ingredients, a grinder and a good handle on the grinding process.” —Zack Northcutt

ausage recipes and techniques are ubiquitous on the

package directions, which will include soaking the casings in

web and in cookbooks. And though making sausage

water overnight to help with elasticity and to avoid breakage. A

might sound complicated at first, all that’s really need-

stand mixer sausage stuffer attachment works fine for the nov-

ed are quality ingredients, a grinder and a good handle on the

ice, but a canister-style stuffer produces better results. (Also,

grinding process. Here are a few guidelines and helpful hints

the auger on the attachment incorporates more air into the

for those just starting out.

mix, which tends to warm the mixture and increase the risk of

One of the most important things to keep in mind when

smearing.)

making sausage is the fat. Fat is necessary to keep the sausage

Just remember to go slowly when stuffing, and to fill the

juicy and flavorful. Pork fatback works best, and maintains

casings full but not too tight—you don’t want them to burst

the texture of the sausage if emulsified correctly. Even when

when you’re twisting them into links. Practice and patience

making a beef or venison recipe, I always add pork fatback. I

are all that’s needed to find the perfect stuffing technique.

usually adjust the amount of fat added according to how lean

To cook the sausage, whether it’s stuffed or in patties, I sug-

the meat is. For around five pounds of meat, I use about a half

gest “slow and low.” Cast-irons are my favorite pans to use, but

pound of fat. But never go over 25 percent fat, no matter how

a regular aluminum or nonstick will work just as well. Start the

lean the meat. If you can’t find fatback, pork butt has a ratio

pan on medium to low heat and add just enough oil to coat the

of 80 percent meat to 20 percent fat that works well for basic

pan—this will help protect the casings from burning. If you are

sausage recipes.

grilling, again, low temperatures are best, because sausage will

Another essential element is keeping the fat cold so that it

leak fat and cause flare-ups if the heat is too high. I like to start

doesn’t break or “smear” during the grinding process. Smear-

on a medium-heat fire and cook the sausages for a few minutes

ing happens when the fat begins to render (usually because of

on either side, then place them on a raised warming platform

a rise in temperature). Keeping the meat and fat as cold as pos-

and cook the vegetables underneath. This technique automati-

sible will produce a consistent texture in the final product. If

cally bastes the vegetables in delicious seasoned pork fat.

making a large batch of sausage, consider putting a plastic zipclose bag full of ice directly on the grinder. I’ve even frozen small cubes of fatback before putting them through the grind. I like to toast the whole spices prior to grinding them in the coffee grinder. Cut the meats and fat into about 1-inch cubes so that they’ll go through the meat grinder easily, then mix the cubes with the ground spices and salt. If adding vegetables, such as garlic and peppers or fresh herbs, rough-chop them first, then mix with the cubed meat and spices before running it all through the meat grinder. Remember not to overwork or heat the final mixture to avoid a smear. For the beginner, an attachment-style grinder that fits on a stand mixer works okay, but for the price, consider buying a small electric grinder, or even a large manual one for not much more money. Form the ground sausage into any shape you’d like before cooking, or if you’re adventurous and want to stuff the sausage, purchase a bundle of casings, also known as a hank of casings (check with your local butcher or order online). Follow the

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ANDOUILLE Makes about 5 pounds 4½ lb. pork ½ lb. pork fatback 2 T. fresh garlic, rough-chopped 2 T. salt 2 T. brown sugar 2 t. cayenne 1 T. chili flakes ¼ t. mace 3 t. smoked hot paprika 1 t. toasted, ground black peppercorns

SLOW DOWN & EAT THE BAR-B-QUE! NATHAN’S BBQ Nathan Winklemann Owner, Chief Cook

BREAKFAST SAUSAGE Makes about 6 pounds 5 lb. venison scraps 1¼ lb. pork fatback 2 T. brown sugar 2 T. salt 1 t. tinted curing salt ¼ t. nutmeg 2 T. chili flakes 1 T. toasted, ground fennel seeds 1 T. toasted, ground black peppercorns 2 T. toasted, ground fresh rosemary leaves

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LOP CHONG Makes about 5 pounds 4½ lb. pork ½ lb. pork fatback 5 t. brown sugar 5 t. scotch 3 t. soy sauce 3 t. water 3 t. sweet sherry 2 T. salt 3 t. Chinese five-spice

GUMBO SAUSAGE

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Makes about 5 pounds For seafood sausage, the key is shrimp. Think of shrimp as the pork fatback in the fat-to-seafood ratio. It adds texture, but most of all, it helps bind the meat together. I like to keep about a 25-percent shrimp-to-seafood mixture. Here’s an easy recipe to get you started. 4 lb. grouper, or similar firm white fish 1 lb. shrimp ½ c. green bell pepper, rough-chopped ½ c. yellow onion, rough-chopped ½ c. celery, rough-chopped 2 t. salt 2 T. sweet smoked paprika 2 T. Zatarain’s spice mix

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cooking BASICS

JERKY BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

grew up eating beef jerky exclusively on road trips. It was

by first freezing for 30 days to kill the possible parasite Trich-

a special snack reserved for long stretches of open road in

inella, and then by baking in a 275-degree oven for 10 minutes

the Arizona desert. Now, after making my own jerky with

to kill any bacteria not eliminated by the long freeze.

simple ingredients, those preservative-packed snack strips of my youth seem pretty unappetizing.

Cutting raw meat is easier when it’s partially frozen so that it retains its structure, but not so frozen that it becomes difficult

Jerky falls into two categories—those that start out raw and

to cut. Suitable freezing time for one to two pounds of meat is

those that start out precooked. Of the three recipes included

between 30 to 45 minutes. When cutting beef, slice across the

below, the beef and fish jerky started out raw, and the turkey

grain so that the finished jerky will be easy to bite and chew.

jerky started as oven-roasted meat from the deli case. Raw

Early television advertisements for food dehydrators tout-

meat must be marinated in a salt mixture that not only devel-

ed the copious amounts of jerky (and dried fruits and vegeta-

ops flavor but also binds up moisture that can harbor bacteria.

bles!) a home cook might make and stash. I would watch these

Precooked meats need only be seasoned to spice preference

infomercials with amusement and outward jest—I was a teen-

prior to drying.

ager, after all. Now, 18 years later, I note the irony of my past

When undertaking a raw meat or fish jerky project, food

infomercial scoffing because of my beloved first and current

safety dictates a pre- or post-treatment (or a combo) to kill

dehydrator: a simple Nesco 5-tray, which is a great and cost-ef-

any bacteria in the meat or fish since it’s never technically

fective workhorse. Though a dehydrator is helpful, it’s certain-

cooked in the drying process. Some raw meat jerky, like that

ly not required for jerky-making. An oven set to the lowest

made from game and pork, must be both pre- and post-treated

setting with the door cracked to prevent baking will work fine.

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DEHYDRATOR METHOD

FISH JERKY

Set the dehydrator to 140° and line the trays according to the machine’s instructions. (My machine indicates to never dehydrate with fewer than 4 trays in the machine, with empty trays if necessary, to create the type of airflow required.)

Fish jerky works best when made from filets of lean fish such as flounder, cod, redfish, snapper or grouper. Fatty fish, such as tuna and salmon, will work for jerky, but will result in a much shorter shelf life of less than 1 week. It took approximately 5 hours to dehydrate ¾-pound of redfish via the dehydrator and yielded one 12-ounce jar of finished jerky.

OVEN METHOD Set the oven to its lowest setting, which is likely 200°; go lower if possible. Line strips of meat on a wire cooling rack set inside a rimmed cookie sheet to allow the air to circulate completely around the meat strips and prevent baking the strips as they dry.

BOTH OVEN AND DEHYDRATOR METHODS Cut the meat in ¼-inch thick (or less) strips to allow timely drying. Keep the strips approximately the same thickness and size to ensure even drying. Check on the progress of the drying and remove smaller or thinner pieces as they finish—allowing larger pieces to continue to dry. Use a clean paper towel to blot oil and fat from the jerky during the drying process. When the jerky is dried to pliable yet moisture-free consistency, sandwich the finished strips in paper towels and weight with plates or cookie sheets for 2 hours to wick out any excess oil and extend the shelf life. Store the jerky in an airtight container, such as a mason jar or freezer bag, and place in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Or for the longest possible shelf life, freeze for up to 6 months. Lean meat jerky will keep for 3 to 4 weeks at room temperature before going rancid from the fat in the meat. Discard the entire package of jerky if mold is present.

FIND ADDITIONAL RECIPE AT EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM: BEEF JERKY

Juice and zest of 1 lemon 3 t. salt ½ t. cracked pepper ¼–1 t. cayenne pepper 2 lb. fish, cut into ¼-inch strips Combine the first 4 ingredients in a bowl or directly in a 9-by-13-inch glass casserole dish and coat the strips of fish in the marinade. Cover and allow to marinate for at least 2 hours or as long as overnight. Dehydrate using your preferred method.

TURKEY JERKY This jerky is by far the easiest to make. In fact, beyond making my own travel and home snacks, I might forgo purchasing our dog’s jerky treats and use these instead because they’re simple and uninvolved. Choose any amount of seasoned or plain oven-roasted turkey from the deli and request slices to be about ¼-inch thick. At home, slice these ovals into 1-inch wide strips and add 1 teaspoon of salt directly to the strips for every pound of sliced meat. Season as desired with other spices, such as cayenne, curry or cracked black peppercorns, by the ½ teaspoon for each pound of meat. It took approximately 2 hours to dehydrate ½-pound of turkey using both the oven and dehydrator methods and yielded a pint jar of finished jerky.

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university of texas press EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

A DAY in the life

REEL RESPITE: A SNAPSHOT OF JOSH JONES BY LES MCGEHEE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY WHITNEY AROSTEGUI

n a smooth rock, 50 feet long, stands Josh Jones, casting

(and ex-vegetarian) were at work instead, no doubt he would

a line into a deep Pedernales pool. The early evening

have already produced any number of inspired dishes like

June breeze smells and feels more green-May than

those keeping the cognoscenti all a-titter. But right now, it’s

brown-July, and the nearby falls drop the temperature even fur-

refreshing to be at the mercy of the unpredictable dark blue

ther. The cicadas, frogs and moving water create a pleasing wall

water and a simple lure.

of sound that would make Phil Spector jealous. Jones slowly reels, casts, reels…walks a little over here, over there.

When asked what inspires his work, Jones pauses to look across the water. “I create a lot of recipes just because they’re

For countless days and nights that seem to trail end-to-end,

exciting—and to have fun. Or sometimes,” he continues, “it’s

Jones wails away at his passion: creating farm-to-table deli-

to use a rarely-used part of the animal in some creative way.”

ciousness on the Eastside at Salt & Time. Yet, like any oth-

Asked if the hustle of present-day Austin ever gets tedious,

er pro, he knows the value of a recharging respite once in a

Jones replies that he often works 70 hours, or more, in a week.

blue moon. And though Jones hasn’t caught a thing yet, he

“Yet, I’m so lucky as a chef. I still get to work on the line some-

couldn’t be happier. If this 29-year-old sustainability sensei

times. It’s kind of like…the only way I can dance.”

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NATURE NEED NOT BE A STRANGER

Before our lives were so convenient, they were authentic. We woke with the sun, worked with our hands and ate food grown in the earth. That may not be where we live anymore, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a nice place to visit. Get the guide at Colorado.com

“We’re doing this because we truly care about good meat and good food.” —Josh Jones Jones shifts his attention to the opposite bank—his face showing signs that he’s considering a new casting angle to a part of the pool where a lunker has been playfully showing a side above the water in between avoiding the lure. “I used to fish in Colorado a lot. Mainly trout,” he says. “I got really good at knowing the streams at different altitudes and times of the year.” Likewise, Jones has become locally famous for knowing his new discipline. In addition to the commitment to using all parts of an animal, he pioneers daily specials that spotlight these under-utilized bits. Many customers come in excited just to see

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what each daily special holds—whimsical offerings like the McDonald’s-inspired happy hour menu where Jones recreates some of the famous fast-food chain’s signature items using, instead, seasonal, high-quality meats and products. “I even perfected a McRib!” he says with pride. “At another happy hour, we made an incredible rib-eye cheesesteak, Tejano style, with queso.” And with all of the attention Salt & Time has been getting,

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it appears the newest challenge to contend with is success. “The restaurant has grown to become about half of our business,” he says. “And the butcher is getting another whole cow per month.” No such abundance or success from the water today, though. As the sun gets lower and lower, Jones eventually turns his back

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to the pool, flashes a gentle grin and says, “I brought beer—and

Always free! Always empowering!

its evolution from hoping not to catch too many, to hoping to get

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a little picnic.” And just like that, the fishing trip has completed one bite, to just putting down the pole altogether. A large checkpulled from the various containers cradling house-made Salt & Time specialties and local bounty. Jones seamlessly transforms from humble fishing guy to proud culinary tour guide. “This is N’Duja Tejano,” he says, pointing to a spicy salami spread. Then he moves to the next containers. “Soppressata, coppa, some aged beef jerky, pork rillettes, some blueberry serrano jam I made this afternoon, fennel-stalk mostarda—I’ve been experimenting with this recipe. Ewephoria cheese, some peaches…because they’re so good right now.” All of a sudden, this fishing-trip-roughing-it is working out great as the words “little picnic” reveal themselves to be highly inadequate in describing the glorious spread. “I know we’re doing big things, yet I also really like being the small guy,” Jones says, as hands reach across the blanket into containers. “We’re doing this because we truly care about good meat and good food. You know, we were a construction

COOKS! 2014

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crew before, and we still focus on how much we care—a small crew working our butts off and showing up every day. We’re not focused on being new and cool, we’re doing these things with our hands—doing everything we can to make it possible for everyone to eat good stuff at a reasonable price and know what they’re eating.”

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With the attention now back on the picnic, each bite is better than the last, and the universe is now this food. And if the fish were listening to Jones’ food descriptions, they’d surely be getting hungry. They’d probably bite now, but who cares? Find Josh Jones at Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria, 1912 E. Seventh Street, or visit saltandtime.com

FENNEL-STALK MOSTARDA Makes about 4½ cups 4–5 fennel stalks sliced into thin rounds (about 3 cups) 3 c. sugar Juice of one orange 1 c. dry white wine 1 T. salt ¼ c. yellow mustard seeds ½ c. water Add the first six ingredients together in a bowl and allow to macerate overnight. The following day, strain the fennel—reserving both the liquid and the strained fennel. Add the strained liquid and the ½ cup of water to a pan, bring to a boil and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. When cooled, add the liquid back to the fennel stalks. Repeat this process every day for 4 to 5 days. Serve like pickles—alongside meats and spreads. Will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

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PORK RILLETTES Makes about 3 pounds 2 lb. local pork hocks 1 white or yellow onion 3 garlic cloves 1 lb. lard 5 sprigs thyme, stems removed Salt, to taste Lightly salt the pork hocks and brown them in a cast-iron pan. Rough-chop the onion and garlic and place in a glass or metal baking pan with the lard. Place the hocks in the pan, cover with foil and cook in a 200° oven for 4 to 5 hours until the meat is fully cooked and tender. Remove the meat from the pan, strain off and reserve the fat, set the cooked veggies aside and allow the meat and veggies to cool to room temperature. Using your hands, pull all of the meat from the bones and discard any bone, sinew and skin. Place the meat and soft veggies in a large bowl and pulverize with your hands—slowly adding in the reserved fat until a pastelike consistency is reached. Add thyme leaves and salt to taste, and place rillettes in a glass jar or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate until ready to serve, but bring to room temperature before serving. Serve with slices of bread or toast.

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farmers DIARY

I O RANCH BY K. THORNBERRY • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

t breakneck speeds,

Ruyle was among the first

Je ff

flies

ranchers in Lampasas Coun-

down steep, boul-

Ruyl e

ty to clear the cedars off his

der-strewn hillsides, skirts

property. The creeks and

along river bluffs, hurtles

springs on I O Ranch’s 1,800

into rocky creek beds and

acres responded quickly,

skids along the edges of

and the ecosystem reverted

green pastures—all the

to verdant post oak prai-

while grinning from ear to

rie. Ruyle was subsequently

ear behind the wheel of his

awarded Region V’s Conser-

ATV. No attempt to por-

vation Rancher of the Year

tray this man could come

by the Soil and Water Con-

close unless it adequately

servation Districts of Texas.

captures just how much

Initially, Ruyle went into

rip-roaring fun he gets out

conventional cattle ranch-

of life.

ing—buying calves at auc-

Yes, Ruyle—lamb pro-

tion and turning them out to

ducer, owner of I O Ranch

pasture until they were ready

and known at local markets

to be shipped to the feedlot.

as “Jeff the lamb guy”—is

Then, in 2010, a friend en-

clearly a happy man. “Every day is different,” he says, “which just

couraged Ruyle to buy some Dorper sheep. Dorpers are a South Af-

suits my ADHD.” He lets out a belly laugh, then continues, “Seri-

rican breed and well-adapted to hot conditions because they sport

ously, though, no two days are alike, and I love that. One day I’m

a thin, hairy coat rather than heavy, lanolin-rich wool. This friend

rounding up the lambs, the next I’m putting up a fence. On the

(who shall remain nameless) told Ruyle that the Dorpers would eat

weekends I’m at the farmers markets interacting with folks all day

the weeds out of his pastures—leaving the more desirable grasses

long, and midweek I’m out here in the quiet with my dogs and my

for the cattle. “That sounded pretty good! So I bought some,” re-

sheep. You have to be an eternal optimist to ever make it in farming

calls Ruyle, and then with a mighty laugh, adds, “Unfortunately, it

or ranching, because when you’re in the thick of it, it seems like

was TOTAL B.S.! Sheep will eat the best forage first, like any other

everything is against you! Mostly the weather.”

ruminant. But I had plenty of forage, so I kept them.”

The I O Ranch (named in honor of its heavy mortgage) was pur-

The historic drought of 2011, however, put an end to Ruyle’s

chased by Ruyle’s father and a group of friends who wanted a place

conventional approach. That memorable year, ranchers across

for get-togethers and deer hunting. “For many years, we leased out

Texas were forced to slaughter entire herds rather than watch

the land to neighboring ranchers,” says Ruyle. “My dad fenced the

them starve or die of thirst. Ruyle says he doesn’t want to recall

property and paid off the note. Eventually, the family bought out

how much money he lost buying increasingly scarce (and ruin-

the other partners.” However, no one in the Ruyle family was in-

ously expensive) hay for his steers. However, he noticed some-

terested in personally ranching the property until Jeff decided to

thing important: The Dorper sheep were doing just fine without

take it on. And from the beginning he had ambitious ideas. “When

any supplementation. The terrible drought conditions almost

I want to do something, I jump in with both feet,” he says. He had

seemed to suit them.

read that once invasive Ashe junipers are removed, the land can

Ruyle took a fresh look at his operations. On the asset side of

recover and the water table can rise—causing creeks and springs

his balance sheet, he had a lot of grassland, but what he didn’t have

to flow again. Taking advantage of a federal fund-matching grant,

was control over rainfall. The Dorpers could cope with drought EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

conditions; the cattle couldn’t. “I bought half as many calves the next year and twice as many lambs. The year after that, I bought no cattle at all and doubled my ewes.” With the switch to sheep, came sheepdogs. “You can’t do it— you just can’t keep sheep without the dogs,” he says. “I consider them my full partners. I’ve got five Great Pyrenees-Anatolian-mix guard dogs to protect the flocks, and my border collie, Cody, to round them up. He can get forty lambs into a pen in about two minutes flat.” Along the way, Ruyle learned about the health benefits of grassfed meats, and there was no going back. Meat from grass-fed animals is high in omega-3 fatty acids—often surpassing the levels in wild-caught, cold-water fish. Ruyle, with his abundant, recovered grassland, figured he would have a minimum of competition if he went all the way and raised lamb that is 100-percent grass-fed and -finished—eating fresh grass right up to the day of processing. He even quit using synthetic fertilizers three years ago because the sheep deposit all the needed fertilizer as they graze. The quality of I O Ranch lamb is so superior that Ruyle’s business keeps expanding, but the success hasn’t jaded his true enjoyment of this work or his love of fun. Ruyle’s eyes sparkle as he gazes out over his lush fields. “Sometimes it helps if you’re just a little bit foolish.” Find I O Ranch lamb at the Downtown and Sunset Valley SFC Farmers’ Markets, and at the Lone Star Farmers Market in Bee Cave. For more information, visit grassfedlamb.net.

COOKS! 2014

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LAMB RAGU PUTTANESCA Makes 8 servings 2 T. olive oil 6 I O Ranch lamb neck steaks (can also use foreshanks, or shanks) Salt and pepper to taste 2 c. diced onion 2 T. chopped garlic ½ t. red pepper flakes 1 c. dry white wine

1 T. anchovy paste 4 T. whole capers in brine (drained) ¾ c. black olives, quartered 2 c. lamb stock, or beef stock 2 c. crushed tomatoes Rigatoni pasta 2 T. chopped parsley ¼ c. feta cheese, divided

Heat oil in an ovenproof pot over high heat. Season lamb necks with salt and pepper. Brown necks on all sides; remove from pot and set aside. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from pot. Add onion, garlic and red pepper flakes. Sauté on medium heat until vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. Add wine, anchovy paste, capers and olives, then simmer until the liquid has almost evaporated. Add the stock and tomatoes, stirring to combine all ingredients. Add the necks back to the pot. Bring to a boil on the stovetop before covering tightly and placing in a 325° oven. (Note: Usually no additional salt is needed due to the anchovy paste and capers.) Turn the lamb necks after 1 hour; cover and place back in the oven for 1 more hour, or until meat is tender enough to fall off the bone. Remove necks from braising liquid and set aside to cool. When necks are cool enough to handle, shred the meat, discarding excess fat and the bone. Add the meat back to the braising liquid, stirring to combine. Warm gently over low heat and serve with rigatoni pasta. Sprinkle each serving with chopped parsley and feta.

Take JAK home with you! Pre-order the cookbook online now at jackallenskitchen.com and utexaspress.com

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at HOME

KEITH KREEGER BY ELIZABETH WINSLOW

eith Kreeger wants to get intimate. “How many pieces of art do you hold on a daily basis?” he asks on a recent visit to his pottery studio in East Austin. Wheth-

er we’ve stopped to consider it before or not, we do indeed get up-close-and-personal with the vessels we use for eating and drinking—we bring a cup to our lips, pass a platter from our hands to a friend’s, hold a bowl up to our nose and inhale deeply. A new generation of food lovers is stopping to consider not just what’s on their plate, but also what’s under their food. In an era when we carefully source ingredients, know our coffee roaster, our farmer and our cheesemaker, doesn’t it desire these days to understand where things come from and how they’re made,” Kreeger agrees. “I think this willingness to connect with what I’m making is deeply connected to the food movement. It’s just the next step for people who love food to care deeply about what it’s served in or on.” In the design process, Kreeger begins with these tactile moments of intimacy—imagining how his pieces will be held and used and also what they will contain. “I make pottery because I think the objects we use on a daily basis are as important as what they hold. I start with a shape before I ever think about pattern or color. The most important thing to me is that the work is used,” he says, smiling. In addition to his work being practical and pleasing to use, Kreeger strives, continuously, for beauty. He draws inspiration from seemingly random bits of loveliness in the world around him—the design of the “Copan” pieces in his spring 2014 collection found its genesis in a vase he stumbled upon while traveling in Central America, and his stripe-and-dot pattern was inspired by a glimpse of a pretty dress. His style walks a line between traditional, hand-built ceramics and contemporary design, with a clean minimalist aesthetic that still shows the hand that shaped it. “There are a lot of steps that people don’t see in creating these pieces—like the way we shape tumblers and bowls that look like they wobble but don’t. I love to incorporate the idea of movement in my pieces, but that’s not something that is obvious at first glance.” A native of upstate New York, Kreeger spent 12 years running a contemporary craft gallery on Cape Cod where he sold his own work and that of other artists. He met and married 58

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Photography (left) of Keith Kreeger by Molly Winters. Photography (opposite page) by Kate LeSueur; styling by Meghan Erwin.

make sense to know who made our plates? “There’s a greater

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COOKS! 2014

Photography by Molly Winters

Evangelina, a native Texan, and in 2009, the couple decided to

since Qui favors an off-center plating, designs for the restau-

move to Austin to be closer to his wife’s family in Houston. “We

rant’s plateware take this into account with off-center, mini-

moved here right when the local food and restaurant scene was

malistic intersecting lines that set the food with a subtle dra-

exploding. I was really lucky to connect to several chefs who

ma. Kreeger and Qui communicate regularly—sending iPhone

are now expanding their reach and doing really exciting things.”

photos back and forth—and Kreeger is talking about a stage at

When Top Chef champion and James-Beard-Award-winning chef Paul Qui was building his namesake restaurant, he

Home cooks can buy Kreeger’s pieces directly from the stu-

wanted to create a holistic culinary design experience for din-

dio or from various retailers, but whether you’re eating off his

ers and reached out to Kreeger to craft plateware that would

plates in a restaurant or at home, he wants you to know that

frame the food he was creating. Other chefs and designers

objects matter. “I think that a meal with friends that you’ve

took notice and collaborations developed with Shawn Cirkiel

spent hours preparing calls for dinnerware made with the

for his newest venture Chavez, and with Foreign & Domestic’s

same care. I think flowers you’ve picked from your garden look

Indie Chefs Week.

better in a vase you’ve picked, as well. I think you deserve to

Kreeger works closely with the chefs for these projects—

Qui to get to know the food on an even more intimate level.

know the maker of the objects you use every day.”

thinking deeply about the menu, the chef’s style, the way the

For more information on where to find Keith Kreeger’s

food looks on the plate and the restaurant space. For example,

pottery, visit keithkreeger.com

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edible DESIGN

MCCRAY AND HALL BY LAYNE LYNCH • PHOTOGRAPHY BY MELANIE GRIZZEL

t’s hard to believe that a serendipitous stop at the Hotel San José in a restored 1972 camper van ended up rewarding Austin with two of its most creative minds in the local

design industry, but that’s the way married couple and interior and graphic design artists Chris McCray and Grace Hall narrate their tale. “We were driving through here on a road trip and ended up backing into a [Hotel San José van] at the hotel,” says Hall. “It’s funny because that accident actually convinced us to stay a bit longer and explore Austin, and we ended up falling in love with the Hotel San José. We honeymooned there, have mini-vacations there and, to this day, it’s our favorite place in the city. There was such creativity here at the time, and even in the past five years, it has grown tremendously, especially in the food world.” McCray and Hall have honed their artistic skills over the years through formal education and collaboration with makers, but most importantly, by immersing themselves in hands-on labor via their business, McCray & Co. “I’ve never been one to sit around and dictate ideas,” McCray says. “I like to work with [clients] side by side. It’s a delicate dance, and you have to check your ego at the door, but there’s a beauty in working in a team of artists that believe in your ideas as much as they do their own. There’s a level of trust that’s formed during that process.” Before the couple relocated to Austin three years ago, McCray worked as a director at Syracuse University at the COLAB—an academic program that promotes creative collaboration between education and business sectors—while Hall labored as a graphic designer, creating works for such businesses as Toyota and Proctor Silex. Bound by their love for thriving cultures and a mutual distaste for 16-foot snowfall, they decided to pack up and move to the city with which they had formed a deep love affair years before. “It always came back to Austin for us,” Hall says. “We always knew that if we were going to move, it would probably be here.” And when it came to securing that very first Austin client, the duo couldn’t have stepped into a luckier turn of events. After unpacking their moving van during one of their first

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nights in the city, McCray and Hall were invited to an impromptu dinner party hosted by a friend of a friend. As outsiders, the couple made conversation among the attendees, and in true kismet fashion, were introduced to Jessica Maher, co-owner of Lenoir, which is now a much-revered, award-winning restaurant, but at the time, was in the early stages of planning and development. “When Jessica started talking about what she and Todd [Duplechan] were planning with Lenoir, I just felt like that was something we should be a part of,” McCray says. “For Todd and Jessica,

1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com

their work and art are directly connected to food. They have such a respect for local farmers, local ingredients and being very conscious of what you’re using, and that you’re using every part of it. For a designer, that’s something you have to admire.” After a series of meetings, Maher and Duplechan eventually granted McCray and Hall their first restaurant commission—trusting they’d take the small, intimate South First Street space and transform it into a chic home away from home. Acutely aware of Maher and Duplechan’s budget, McCray and Hall worked meticulously to create a charming, serene dining space, and the results are nothing short of breathtaking. Using repurposed and recycled materials from Austin Habitat Re-store, the couple weaved together a color scheme of bold black, worn white and peacock blue. And the backdrop of bright lighting fixtures, tall wood furniture, heavy draperies, vintage-like storage containers and vases, and a collection of other minute details have made the restaurant one of the most admired gathering spaces in town.

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“Working on a restaurant is a challenge, but I love that it’s a

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space that people across so many different parameters and experiences get to share,” McCray says. “I never expected the response to Lenoir to be so strong.” Once an abundance of curious diners, ambitious restaurateurs and budding chefs took in the view at Lenoir, McCray & Co.’s client roster expanded, and their work can now be seen in the repurposed Red Lobster restaurant tables at Ramen Tatsu-Ya, the checkered floors at Métier Cook’s Supply, the office at local public relations firm Bread & Butter,

w w w. s e r ve g o u r m e t .c o m

the sturdy bar stools at Odd Duck, Uchi’s corporate offices and the leather bar at the soon-to-open St. Philip. And the list only continues to grow; an unannounced Cedar Creek wine bar and a remake on a classic Mexican cantina are two of the newest projects in development. While restaurants have undoubtedly become their signature project, McCray and Hall have immersed themselves in an array of others, including a host of residential and commercial spaces as well as fixing up their East Austin bungalow and managing an antique booth out of town. But nothing quite tops the perk that comes with working in the hospitality industry. “It’s nice when you’re working away and some-

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one just stops by and asks you to taste something,” Hall says. “Who knew food could taste that good?” To view McCray and Hall portfolio, visit mccray-co.com

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edible ENDEAVOR

BLACKBIRD BAKERY BY CLAIRE CELLA • PHOTOGRAPHY BY KNOXY

n the final fading refrain of the Beatles song, “Blackbird,”

one that’s taken Morgan over seven years of culinary and scien-

Paul McCartney croons, “You were only waiting for this mo-

tific experimentation, 14,000 recipe trials, sheet tray upon sheet

ment to arise.” One could imagine Karen Morgan belting out

tray of cookies that looked like melted plastic and some hard-

that line the moment the first loaf of French boule—made from

core, dogged determination. Surprisingly, when first diagnosed

her own blend of gluten-free flours, starches and gums—began

with celiac disease, Morgan had no culinary experience other

to plump and lift in the bowl before her eyes. And even easier

than early memories of sitting on her mother’s kitchen counter

to imagine once she tasted that first fresh piece ripped from the

scooping butter into mixing bowls for cookies. There weren’t

rounded golden crust.

any cooking schools based on the then-limited gluten-free tech-

That moment was in 2012, ten years after Morgan had been

niques and, according to Morgan, the only available cookbooks

diagnosed with celiac disease, almost eight years after she be-

were stodgy and old. “You weren’t really getting any good infor-

gan to learn to bake without gluten in her life, and four years

mation out there,” she says. “Only if you wanted to know how to

after she’d founded and established her own online wholesale

make an adobe brick loaf of bread that was so dense you could

bakeshop, Blackbird Bakery. Now, she and Blackbird Bakery ar-

probably kill someone with it.”

en’t just successfully flying high, they’re arguably soaring. In

After trying and retrying recipes in her kitchen, Morgan says

the past year alone, Morgan’s online sales have quadrupled, the

that one day she just threw all of the books away—deciding, in-

business was named one of Austin’s most innovative companies

stead, to pursue something completely different and teach her-

by Austin Monthly, and her second cookbook, “The Everyday

self how to make something that she, and others, would want to

Art of Gluten-Free,” is scheduled for release in the fall of 2014.

eat. She got the opportunity to do just that in Nans-sous-Sainte-

She’s baked a cake for singer Thom Yorke, assembled a Christ-

Anne, France, when she and her then-chef boyfriend were hired

mas basket for Lady GaGa, and the restaurant Frank uses her

to work for a bed-and-breakfast for four months in 2006. Morgan

gluten-free hot dog buns in their everyday service. And that

endeavored to make everything sans gluten during that period of

beloved boule she still makes is a consistent bestseller at the

time. “We received standing ovations every night,” she recalls.

downtown Austin SFC Farmers’ Market.

“If you can fool the French, then you can really make change in

But soaring hasn’t come easy. There was a learning curve— 66

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America,” she says with a hearty laugh.

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Upon returning to the U.S., Morgan started sharing her work locally with fellow chefs, such as David Garrido, formerly of Jeffrey’s, and Shawn Cirkiel, of Parkside, as well as nationally with students at Whole Foods Market, Sur La Table, Williams-Sonoma and the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City where she taught. She founded Blackbird Bakery online in 2008, and was able to open up her shop and sweets to wholesale clients worldwide. And a few years later, she shared her years of exertion and energy in her first cookbook, “Blackbird Bakery Gluten-Free.”

Colors Fall

After the first cookbook, however, Morgan realized there was still much to learn about cooking without gluten, and she sought out people in the gluten-free community to elicit their thoughts on what the industry lacked, and what challenges still remained. The biggest problem, they said, were the flours—multi-part recipes that require an array of varied and unconventional ingredients to assemble and an excessive amount of time that the average cook, chef and even modern working consumer don’t have. “That’s when I decided I wanted to create a line of flour blends,” says Morgan. “You know… because in the gluten-free market today, there’s no such thing as an all-purpose flour blend. It’s impossible.” She credits her blends—six in all—to her time in France and the culinary knowledge she garnered there. She explains that pro-

find them at

fessional chefs in France actually use a wide variety of flours from grains that are each grown, harvested and milled to very precise specifications and mineral contents in order to make a range of baked goods. The flours used to make croissants, for example, are starkly different from those used to make baguettes. And not only are the flours different, but the final mixtures all have different ratios of gluten, water, yeast and salt, as well, in order to derive specific tastes, textures and appearances like crisp exteriors, flaky layers or buttery centers. Morgan wondered why this concept couldn’t be applied to gluten-free baking, as well. In May 2014, she officially released her flour blends—Biscuit, Bread & Pizza, Pie & Pasta, Cake & Muffin, Cookie Jar and Donut & Fritter. Inside each bag is a correctly crafted and scientifically concocted mixture of complete-protein, non-GMO and mostly organic grain flours, starches and guar gum, all tailored to mimic the delicate nuances of a specific type of baked good—the breads and pizza crusts rise tremendously; the tarts are sweet, soft and buttery; the donuts puff; the biscuits flake; and the cakes are moist and airy. Morgan’s new cookbook is based on these flour blends. “It explains the philosophy behind them, how I engineered them,” she says. “You can be a professional chef working at one of the best restaurants in the world, but if you were asked to make a phenomenal loaf of brioche or flawless crepes without gluten, you would be stumped. This book is really supposed to be a bible and a turnkey to help people unlock the secrets to baking and cooking gluten-free.” Even in light of all the success, Morgan admits there’s still work to do. The puff pastry and the croissant still need to be mastered, she says with a wink. She’s also interested in seeing her flour blends on the shelves of Texas-based grocery stores like Central Market, and in the kitchens of local chefs. For now, though, it’s just fun and gratifying to watch this blackbird as it flies. For more information on where to find her gluten-free products, visit blackbird-bakery.com

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edible BOOKS

TEXAS ON THE TABLE BY TERRY THOMPSON ANDERSON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY SANDY WILSON

Introduction and recipes from “Texas on the Table: People, Places, and Recipes Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State” by Terry Thompson-Anderson with photographs by Sandy Wilson (© 2014 by Terry Thompson-Anderson and Sandy Wilson. All rights reserved). Published by the University of Texas Press. For more information visit utexaspress.com.

exas is a big state. It covers more than 276,000 square miles, in 10 distinct climatic regions, 14 diverse soil re-

People in every state have begun to embrace the idea that lo-

gions, and 11 wildly divergent ecological regions. And in

cally grown food tastes better. The agriculturally inclined men

each, you’ll find an eclectic group of people who love their par-

and women of Texas have responded in kind (though in some

ticular patch with a passion, whether it’s in the lush farmland

cases they were there all along). In the Hill Country where dairy

of the Brazos Valley, the salty towns along the Gulf Coast, the

cows and goats range on green pastures, artisan cheesemakers

rock-strewn Hill Country, the vast, arid lands of the High Plains,

collect milk from their herds to make a variety of exceptional

or sun-baked South Texas.

cheeses. In and around the little town of Medina, a vital apple

It’s a very exciting time to be cooking in Texas. This book

that the Texas terroir produces a taste like that of nowhere else.

industry has grown up based on fruit from dwarf trees.

offers up a collection of new and classic Texas recipes and tells

In South Texas, a thriving olive industry has taken root, with

the stories of the people—the farmers, ranchers, shrimpers,

new orchards and tasty new varieties of olives being planted

cheesemakers, winemakers, and chefs—who inspired so many

every year.

of them and who are changing the taste of Texas food. It’s all

On the coast, oystermen have begun selling their catch by

about terroir, a French term that originally applied to wine but

appellation, charging premium prices for oysters from the best

has become more broadly used to describe “a taste of place.” It

reefs. This practice is allowing them to earn a decent living.

refers to the scientific factors—climate, soil, and so on—that

Humanely harvested game from Broken Arrow Ranch is

affect the way living things grow and thrive but also the cultural

sought by chefs from around the country, and local lamb, bison,

conditions that determine the unique flavor of the final product.

rabbit, quail, and duck are now as likely as beef to be on the

Simply put, one of the things I discovered in writing this book is

menu at the state’s best restaurants.

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Chef Jordan Muraglia of Vaudeville in Fredericksburg EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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One of the most exciting agricultural industries in Texas to-

this book. Some of the people you’ll meet in these pages were

day is the wine business. There are almost 300 wineries, in all

old friends; others were strangers who welcomed us into their

corners of the state. While the modern Texas wine industry is

lives and work. They taught us how grasses and grains differ,

young compared with those of Europe and California, it’s catch-

and when a grape is ripe for harvest, or how to separate the

ing up fast. Viticulturalists and winemakers are experimenting

curds from the whey.

with grapes from around the world, especially those native to

Many of the places we visited are family-run, even multigen-

the Mediterranean. Texas actually encompasses such a large

erational, farms or food businesses. Many were started by re-

area—equivalent to several of the wine-producing regions of the

tirees or refugees from the corporate world, finally doing what

Mediterranean—that winemakers have the flexibility to produce

they really want to do. It shows. These folks don’t sell anything

a wide variety of wines and wine styles, from Spain’s Tempra-

they don’t put on their own tables. They don’t take shortcuts.

nillo to Germany’s Riesling. Grapes that originated in southern

They treat their animals well. Many of their businesses are

France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, and Sardinia are flourishing in the

certified organic, an expensive and bureaucratic process. The

Texas heat and growing in abundant supply. For most winemak-

hard part was trying to fit in as many as we could—there are

ers, these are the grapes of the Texas wine industry’s future.

many more. We hope you’ll find them as inspiring as we did.

…

Sandy and I traveled thousands of miles while researching

What I learned in writing this book proves the time-honored adage that what grows together, goes together.

VAUDEVILLE’S CRISPY HEIRLOOM TOMATO WITH WILD BOAR RILLETTES, HERB SALAD, AND GAZPACHO SORBET Serves 10 The Texas Hill Country has experienced an influx of talented young chefs who have been lured to the scenic area by both the rising bar of culinary awareness and, well, the scenery. Jordan Muraglia, a Denver, Colorado, native, is one of those chefs. His family acquired a ranch outside Fredericksburg, and Jordan couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be in close proximity to such a plethora of all-natural agricultural products. So he and his partner, Richard Boprae, moved to Fredericksburg and opened their own home accessory/design center/bistro on the town’s bustling Main Street. They named it Vaudeville, and it was an instant success. This dish has great eye appeal, with a fusion of flavors and textures, cooked and uncooked, hot and cold. Jordan says the dish is a testament to his version of the Hill Country experience. The dish is component driven, pulling from his own garden and utilizing local game. The various parts of the dish can also be well matched in many other applications. The wild boar rillettes are perfect to set out with some grilled bread and pickled cherries for a casual appetizer or on a charcuterie board. They can also be fried with sweet potatoes in a Sunday-morning hash and topped with a poached egg. The gazpacho sorbet is amazing on a lump crabmeat salad or shaken with vodka for a gazpacho martini that is sure to satisfy your Bloody Mary habit. The crispy heirloom tomato really goes with just about anything and can even substitute for a hamburger patty for a vegetarian sandwich. Or it can replace a plain tomato slice on the hamburger. Great components make great dishes.

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WILD BOAR RILLETTES 1 wild boar shoulder, about 5 to 6 pounds (Jordan uses Broken Arrow Ranch) 6 whole garlic heads, cut in half horizontally 10 sprigs fresh thyme

2 T. freshly ground black pepper ¼ c. kosher salt 2 c. rendered duck fat 2 T. bacon fat

GAZPACHO SORBET 1 cucumber 1 onion 4 ripe tomatoes 1 red bell pepper 1 garlic clove Juice of 1 lemon 1 T. Texas extra virgin olive oil

1 t. fine sea salt 1 t. champagne vinegar 1 t. agave nectar ¼ c. water (or more if you are using a blender)

CRISPY HEIRLOOM TOMATO 2 c. panko bread crumbs Zest of one lemon ¼ c. chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 T. minced fresh thyme (about 8 large sprigs) 3 T. plus 1 T. Texas extra-virgin olive oil, divided

All TEXAS, all the time.

2 t. freshly ground black pepper 2 t. fine sea salt 5 medium-sized heirloom tomatoes

We make our wine from TEXAS grapes.

21 ALL-Texas wines for tasting!

HERB SALAD Leaves from 1 head of celery Small fresh basil leaves Fresh chives Fresh tarragon

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Begin by making the wild boar rillettes. Cut the boar shoulder into 3-inch cubes and place in a bowl with the garlic cloves and thyme. Place in the refrigerator for 1 to 3 days, stirring often. Remove from refrigerator and rub the meat with the salt and pepper. Preheat oven to 300°F. Place the meat mixture and fat in a shallow pot or baking dish (cast iron works very well) and cover. Cook the boar in preheated oven for approximately 4 hours, or until the meat is tender and will shred easily. Cool to room temperature in the fat. When meat has cooled, strain the fat through a fine strainer, reserving it for another use. Reserve 8 ounces of the fat. (You can use the remaining fat to make duck confit, to fry potatoes or eggs, or to make biscuits. Duck fat is amazing and delicious.) Shred the boar meat and cover with the reserved duck and bacon fat, which will preserve the meat—the original intention of this technique. Refrigerate while preparing the other components. Make the gazpacho sorbet. Start by peeling and roughly chopping the cucumber. Chop the rest of the fruits and vegetables into the same-sized pieces. For this gazpacho Jordan uses a juicer, or you can use a high-speed blender, but remember to add a bit more water. Process all of the fruits and vegetables through the juicer or blender, and then add the rest of the ingredients. Add water as needed until it blends easily. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Pour the gazpacho into ice-cube trays and freeze until solid. To finish the sorbet, place the frozen ice cubes in the food processor, adding lemon juice if needed to loosen them. Blend until smooth, then pour into a storage container, cover tightly, and place back in the freezer. Remove the sorbet 5 minutes before you will arrange the plates. To make the crispy heirloom tomatoes, combine all of the ingredients, except tomatoes, reserving 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper. Pulse until well blended. Transfer the panko mixture to a shallow pan; set aside. Slice the tomatoes ¼-inch thick and lay the tomato slices flat in the panko mixture, pressing down gently to be sure they are well coated. Only one side of the tomato will be breaded. Place an empty nonstick skillet over medium-high heat 10 minutes before you are ready to fry the tomatoes. When it begins to smoke, add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Fry the tomatoes quickly, breaded sides down, in the olive oil. This should take only 30 seconds to reach the desired golden brown crispness. Remove quickly from the pan; flip the tomatoes so that the breaded sides are up when assembling the dish. Make the herb salad. Jordan uses the listed herbs because he always

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has them on hand, but you can use any leafy herbs you wish to create the salad. Just be sure that you include celery leaves in the mix to prevent the herb flavors from being overpowering. Trim the celery leaves from the stalks and put them in an ice bath. Pull the small basil leaves from the stems. Chop the chives into pieces ¼-inch long. If you have chive flowers, they are also wonderful to use in this salad. Remove the tarragon leaves from the stems. Toss the herbs together; set aside.

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To assemble the dish, roll the rillettes into ten 1¼- to 2-ounce balls (Jordan uses a medium-sized ice-cream scoop to consistently portion the balls). There will be enough rillettes left for another use. Sear the rillettes in a smoking-hot cast-iron skillet. You don’t need to add oil to the pan, as residual fat will render from the rillettes. Press down on the rillettes to create patties. Brown the rillettes on both sides, turning once; then remove from pan and set aside to keep warm. Sear the tomatoes in the hot olive oil. Place the tomatoes, breaded sides up, in the center of individual plates. Top each with a rillettes patty, followed by a little nest of the salad. Place a small scoop of the sorbet on top of each serving. Drizzle the plate with a good-quality extra-virgin olive oil and grind a bit of black pepper on top.

BROKEN ARROW RANCH

roken Arrow Ranch in Ingram was founded in 1983 by Mike Hughes and his wife, Elizabeth. The Hugheses traveled frequent-

ly and noticed that venison and other wild game meats were prominent on European restaurant menus but not so in Texas. Mike also

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knew that large numbers of exotic species had been imported to Texas ranches for hunting purposes and that these animals had proliferated to the point that they were overgrazing Hill Country ranchlands. It was not a sustainable situation for either the animals or the land. Being a driven man, Hughes began a campaign to create a legal venison industry in Texas and the United States. There were no laws allowing such a business to exist, nor were there laws preventing it. He met with Texas legislators to see about classifying exotic (nonnative) animals as livestock, which meant they could be bought, sold, and inspected for meat. He worked with Texas Parks and Wildlife game wardens to clarify hunting laws as they pertained to exotic

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animals…. In the end, Hughes built the first mobile processing unit, then applied for a grant of inspection. The unit met all of the requirements, and nothing said it couldn’t be on wheels, so the Texas Department of Agriculture gave it the stamp of approval. The processing unit was driven to the ranch, and Hughes began harvesting exotic deer and wild boar. Broken Arrow is the only supplier of “wild” venison in the nation. The company employs professional hunters who harvest free-range game, using techniques that reduce stress in the animals, resulting in a better-quality meat, from more than 100 Texas ranches, which comprise about a million acres. The game grazes on native vegetation, giving the meat the complex natural flavors not found in strictly farm-raised animals. In addition to venison, Broken Arrow supplies wild boar and black antelope (nilgai) to chefs all over the country. Editor's note: Broken Arrow Ranch, now owned by the Hugheses’ son, Chris, produces meats that are purchased by small-town cafés and Michelin-starred restaurants. In addition, the company maintains a large retail trade through its website, brokenarrowranch.com

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CASEY WILCOX BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

t’s a Sunday night at the South Austin home of Casey Wil-

Wilcox’s hands—one letter above the last knuckle of each

cox, executive chef of Justine’s Brasserie, but you won’t

finger. He worries aloud that the words might sound preten-

find anyone draped languidly across a couch or affixed to

tious, but explains they’re really more of a prayer—similar to

a television screen. Although there’s an air of relaxation and

how sailors used to ink “HOLD FAST” on their knuckles to

ease that drifts through the open front door, within an hour,

give them a good grip in rigging. Wilcox says that failure is

voices have filled the house and once-empty platters have

just as motivating as success, because, to him, those are the

quickly overflowed to greet a gregarious assemblage of din-

only options. So the words act as sort of a reminder to his

ner guests. Included are Addie Higgins, Wilcox’s girlfriend of

hands. “Like, I need you to do this for me,” he says.

five years; Higgins’ sister Nessa and her daughter Willow; the

Wilcox tops the bowl of popped potatoes with his own

Higginses’ parents, Mike and Beverly; and Jill Kuvhe, a dear

blended mayonnaise, roasted cauliflower bits, lobster

friend from the industry. Underfoot are the watchful eyes of

chunks, chopped jalapeños and green onions. As a finale, he

Maybe, the gentle giant of a pit bull and Nessa’s dog, Her-

tops the pile with a splash of scent from delicate tendrils of

cules. Not everyone could make it, though—throughout the

dill before he grips a large spoon and folds the ingredients in

night, the family laments the absence of Addie’s young sons,

on each other while everything is warm and fragrant.

Dash and Jesper, as well as Addie’s grandmother, Boots.

The night progresses in seamless orchestration. An exact

One might think that the executive chef of one of Austin’s

number of platters and bowls lies in wait nearby, various in-

most esteemed restaurants would rather do anything but

gredients have been prepped ahead and are pulled as needed,

cook on his days off, but for Wilcox, cooking remains one of

the dinner table has already been elegantly set for eight. Al-

the only activities that helps him unwind. “It really, truly, is

ways in motion, swift and purposeful, Wilcox spins around

how I relax,” he says as he walks outside with determination

the kitchen and slides past family members. On the menu

and tongs to flip four slabs of Salt & Time short ribs amid the

are those braised short ribs topped with roasted onions and

billowing smoke. “I have got to be worn out to come home

peppers—a dish he says is reminiscent of his first cooking

and watch TV; I have to be completely destroyed. But it’s the

gig as a high school student in upstate New York where he

things that demand so much focus from me—like cooking,

slaved away the summers cooking at the New York State Fair.

riding my motorcycle, building something here…(he pauses

There’s also a lobster casserole—a subtle, savory and, as

to point the dripping tongs at the vintage lights he installed

Wilcox puts it, “funky” shellfish dish that he’s been dream-

in the living room)…that allow me to relax. It’s just enough

ing up for weeks but that isn’t quite right for Justine’s. He

that I can stop organizing everything else in my head. The

tops the creamy combination with crumbled Ritz crackers.

only way I can really do that is with my hands.”

“This is why it isn’t a Justine’s dish,” he says with a laugh.

Back inside, Wilcox stands above the sink, smashing gold-

“Ritz crackers, cheddar cheese, jalapeños…right?” There’s

en baby potatoes with his bare hands; potatoes that were,

also pan-sautéed cherry tomatoes from Springdale Farms,

mere seconds ago, in a pot of boiling water. Steam escapes

and basil plucked from Justine’s new backyard garden—in-

in visible puffs between his palms. “I could have probably

gredients Wilcox says he’s been “really getting down on.”

waited,” he says with an almost mischievous smile, seeming-

“I’m cooking not for myself, but for my ideals,” he says. “And

ly unfazed by the scalding potato skins. Amid the heat and

those are to be as honest with the food as I can; to get things

movement flash the bold words “CAN’T FAIL” tattooed on

from as close [by as] I can get them; to not overwork them or

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CASEY WILCOX’S “NOT QUITE JUSTINE’S” LOBSTER CASSEROLE Serves 6 For the mayo: 3 egg yolks 2 T. sherry 1 lemon, juice and zest 1 T. sherry vinegar ½ jalapeño, with seeds, chopped 1 garlic clove 1 t. salt 1 T. Worcestershire sauce 8 oz. sharp English cheddar cheese, grated ¼ c. prepared horseradish 1 c. any neutral oil 1 pt. sour cream Salt, to taste Combine the first eight ingredients in a food processor and process until the egg yolks are foamy and lighter in color. Add the cheddar cheese and horseradish and process again. Slowly drizzle in the oil. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and fold in the sour cream.

let them be too precious; to have a light hand and to translate that. [Cooking] is not just for you, as the chef. It’s not a vanity project. It’s not, you know, art for art’s sake.” Now at the dinner table, Wilcox’s hands are still working as he puts down hot platters and begins to pass around the salad bowl. Soon, lush broad leaves of local spinach and arugula fan dinner plates, requiring slicing in order to eat—just the way Wilcox likes it. “I always aim to create fork-and-knife food,” he says. “I don’t want anyone cutting my food for me! I want to do it myself.” Just before digging in, the family offers thanks for the food and for Wilcox’s hard work—a privilege he doesn’t often get to experience from the back of Justine’s. For a brief moment, his “CAN’T FAIL” reminder edict relaxes into simple, intermingled letters as he threads his fingers together to join in the prayer and celebrate the evening’s successes.

Don’t miss a

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For the casserole: 3 c. cauliflower, roughly diced 3 c. petite potatoes 1 bunch green onions, sliced 2 T. dill, roughly chopped 1½ c. cooked lobster, roughly chopped 1 sleeve Ritz crackers, crushed ½ c. sharp English cheddar cheese, grated, for topping Preheat the oven to 375° and roast the cauliflower until just browned—about 30 minutes. When finished, place the cauliflower in a large bowl to cool. While the cauliflower is roasting, bring the potatoes to a boil in a large pot of salted water. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Drain and set aside to cool. Once cool enough to handle (or not, if you’re Wilcox), slightly smash the potatoes into the bowl with the cauliflower. While still hot, add the green onion, dill, lobster and the mayo mixture. Spoon into a large baking pan or casserole dish and top with the crackers and a sprinkle of cheese. Bake the casserole at 375° until the top is golden brown.

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ALLISON ORR BY M E R E D I T H B E T H U N E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

rtistic Director Allison Orr

visited several fabulous food des-

might be the creative pow-

tinations such as Mexico and Italy,

erhouse

Forklift

but their most memorable meals

Danceworks—a local nonprofit that

were enjoyed in Trabulsi’s ances-

creates innovative, often breathtak-

tral homeland. “The food that we

ing, dance performances inspired by

had in Lebanon was unbelievable!”

the movement of everyday life—but

Orr exclaims, as she recalls dishes

it’s her husband Blake Trabulsi who

such as the crispy, torpedo-shaped

wears the creative genius hat in their

croquettes known as kibbeh, the sa-

home kitchen. As co-owner of local

vory stuffed squashes and the im-

firm Zocalo Design, Trabulsi says

possibly smooth and rich hummus.

that cooking is how he unwinds after

That trip eventually inspired

work. “He grew up in a Lebanese fam-

Orr to learn a handful of simple

ily in Houston who cooked big family

Trabulsi family recipes. In fact, ma-

meals every Sunday,” Orr explains.

jadra, a Lebanese lentil and onion

“So he has a natural love of cooking,

stew, was Genevieve’s first solid

and confidence in the kitchen.”

food. But like many children Gene-

behind

In contrast, Orr describes her

vieve’s age, onions and certain tex-

title within their Travis Heights

tures—like vegetable peels—aren’t

bungalow as “Lead Manager on

on the list of favorites. “My kids

the Domestic Front.” And though

are a little picky,” Orr says with a

she credits help from family and babysitters for her ability to manage the household’s frenetic

chuckle while JoJo helps her peel a cucumber from a neighbor’s garden.

schedule, her mellow yet dynamic temperament clearly con-

“Everyone knows I don’t really cook, so I’m asked, on oc-

tributes to the family’s balanced hum. That said, Orr’s home

casion, just to bring along this salad to events,” Orr continues.

life and work obligations often overlap. For example, observ-

She starts by tearing two heads of lettuce from the farmers

ing crack-of-dawn city workers in order to create some of her

market into bite-sized pieces and placing them in a large bowl.

company’s most famous productions required early morn-

“Blake’s mom always cuts the cucumber into little bites,” she

ings for Orr’s family; the couple’s 3-year-old son JoJo recent-

notes, while sectioning the vegetable into triangle-shaped

ly attended multiple baseball games to prepare for Forklift

morsels. She adds them to the bowl of lettuce, along with thick

Dancework’s “Play Ball”; and 8-year-old daughter Genevieve

wedges of tomato and strings of red onion. After adding ample

recently performed as a batgirl in this same celebration of the

chunks of avocado, Orr begins rolling a lemon between her

historic Downs Field in East Austin. “Forklift Danceworks is

hand and the kitchen counter—another trick she learned from

really a family project for the kids and Blake,” Orr says. “It’s

her mother-in-law. After explaining to JoJo that it softens the

twenty-four-seven when we’re in production.”

fruit and makes it easier to juice, she hands it to him and asks,

Soon, a collaboration with Japan’s Kyoto Arts Center will

“Do you want to give it a try?” Then she pulls a sunny lemon

take the production, as well as the entire family, on a new

squeezer from the kitchen drawer and proclaims, “Now, these

adventure; but travel isn’t foreign to Orr or Trabulsi, who met

are important! Everyone in the family has one. It made me feel

on a public health project in Paraguay. The couple has also

like I had arrived when Blake’s mom gave it to me.”

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

at each other in disbelief, pause and start laughing. They realize that Trabulsi’s grandmother, who never used recipes, must have added avocado to the salad long ago and not bothered to mention the adjustment. “Well…this must be a HOUSTON Lebanese salad, then,” Orr declares with pride and a pleasant, resigned smile.

ALLISON ORR’S HOUSTON LEBANESE SALAD Serves 4–6

cording to Orr. “You have to taste the salad to know that you’ve

2 heads of lettuce (romaine, butter or a combination) 1 large cucumber, peeled, sliced into small triangles 2 tomatoes, sliced into thick wedges 2 avocados, sliced into large chunks 1 red onion, sliced into 1-inch pieces Juice of one lemon ¼ c. mild-flavored olive oil 2 T. dried mint

added enough,” she explains. “You should feel the presence of

1 T. salt, or to taste

After adding the lemon juice, Orr pours a couple of generous glugs of olive oil over the salad—noting that the Trabulsi family prefers mild-tasting oil. The final ingredients—two tablespoons of dried mint and about one tablespoon of salt—are crucial ac-

the mint, but when it doesn’t turn out right, it’s usually because someone was timid with the salt.” After tossing the salad, the avocado should gently coat the components of this bright and exceptionally satisfying dish. “The avocado is what makes it rich and substantial,” Orr says with confidence. But minutes later, while flipping through the Lebanese cookbook that’s another family staple, Orr notices that avocado isn’t listed in the salad’s ingredients. She and her husband look

Remove the lettuce leaves from the cores and tear them into bitesized pieces. Wash, spin dry and place in a large bowl. Add the cucumber, tomato, onion slices and avocado. Pour the lemon juice directly onto the salad and then add the olive oil. Sprinkle the dried mint and salt over the salad, then toss until the ingredients are distributed evenly. Substantial pieces of avocado should remain intact while just slightly coating the lettuce leaves. Taste for salt and mint and add more, if necessary. Serve immediately.

A ONE-OF-A-KIND EASTSIDE NEIGHBORHOOD EVENTS SPACE Perfect for weddings, private events, concerts, weekend markets and more. 1100 East 5th St, Austin TX 78702 www.fairmarketaustin.com

COOKS! 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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first kiss Texas afternoon

Things are just sweeter in the south—a sugary tapestry of experiences that you only get growing up where life moves at a comfortable pace. A nice glass of honest, old-fashioned isn’t just a part of that life; it is that life.

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Call now to learn how you can get a FREE case of Moonshine Sweet Tea! (512) 800-0680

www.moonshinesweettea.com www.facebook.com/moonshinesweettea • Brewed in Austin, TX EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

COOKS at home

JANELLE REYNOLDS BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

hef Janelle Reynolds might be the winner of Food Network’s “Chopped,” but back at home, she’s a champion at teaching her son, Jace, to eat well. “A lot of my

favorite things to cook at home are vegetables,” she says. “I’m really trying to get Jace set up for a lifetime of healthy eating.” It appears to be working, because Jace requires zero prodding to eagerly dive into two salads placed before him at lunch. “We never fight over vegetables,” Reynolds says. “We’ve been feeding Jace kale since he had teeth.” Of course, teaching a child to eat well is easier if both parents are chefs. Janelle and husband Jay met at culinary school where Jayson was teaching one of Janelle's classes. Six weeks after the class ended, she mustered up the courage to ask him out. “I caught him off guard and just knew he was going to say no, but we went and shot pool the next day. We celebrated our eighth wedding anniversary at the end of July,” says Janelle, standing in front of the fridge with the note “Jay loves Janelle” stuck to it. When Janelle was pregnant, the couple decided that the daily grind of their respective restaurant kitchen jobs would be difficult with a young child. Instead, Janelle and Jay started @t Large, a boutique personal chef and catering service, so that they could set their own schedules and work from home several days each week. “I’ll never be able to park in my garage

because it’s full of catering gear,” says Janelle. “That’s a small

She’s also cooking a dish she loved as a kid. “My grandmother

sacrifice, though.”

always made fried chicken hearts for me,” says Janelle. “We

Janelle also joined Dinner Lab, a supper club with locations

would show up at her house and she’d have hearts and giz-

across the country. She began as the Austin location’s chef de

zards simmering away on the stove. It was simple food, but it

cuisine—helping visiting chefs organize their dinners—and

was so flavorful. I loved it.” Of course, her grandmother prob-

now serves as a guest chef at dinners in Austin and around the

ably didn’t have a commercial fryer in her kitchen, but like the

country. “What’s special about Dinner Lab,” says Janelle, “is

containers in the pantry clearly labeled with blue tape and the

that this moment isn’t going to happen again—not with this

menu for the day taped to the wall, that probably comes with

chef, this food, in this space. This dinner is a special moment.

the territory of a two-chef household.

We’re bringing it back to what’s important: the community,

When lunch is served, Jace bounds up to the table and

and celebrating the passion of the chef for their craft, and ap-

digs in. Some kids, or even adults, might turn up their noses

preciating good food. It’s not about how fancy your linens or

at chicken hearts, but Jace approaches the plate—also load-

wine glasses are.”

ed with broccoli and Romanesco—with the gusto other kids

Today, Janelle is preparing two of her family’s favorite sal-

might save for chicken nuggets and french fries. Janelle looks

ads—making the dishes colorful and fun for Jace by cutting

at Jace fondly, then silently adds another notch to the belt of

the cucumbers with a star-shaped cookie cutter, for example.

eating well.

COOKS! 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

TOMATO, CUCUMBER AND WATERMELON SALAD Serves 4 1 pt. ripe cherry tomatoes, halved (a mix of colors is best!) 1 English cucumber, cut into ½-inch-thick rounds 1 qt. diced watermelon 1 T. chopped fresh dill

½ c. julienned red onion Extra virgin olive oil Red wine vinegar Kosher salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste Sugar, to taste

Drizzle the tomatoes with some olive oil, sprinkle with salt and allow to marinate for 10 minutes. Then combine the tomatoes with the cucumber, watermelon, dill and onion and gently stir. Season to taste with salt and pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and a splash of vinegar. Add a sprinkle of sugar to round out the acidity of the vinegar. Serve cold or at room temperature.

FIND ADDITIONAL RECIPE AT EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM: JANELLE REYNOLDS’ GRANDMOTHER’S FRIED CHICKEN HEARTS EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

edible DIY

BATH AND BODY BY CA R I M A R S H A L L A N D C H R I ST I N E C H I S M • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY S H A N N O N K I N T N E R

ne great payoff to surviving the summer heat in Central Texas is the verdant

produce growing season that lasts throughout autumn. Favorites that begin to thrive in summer—such as cucumbers, figs, pumpkins and a host of herbs—flourish this time of year, and are not only tasty edibles but also terrific ingredients for a multitude of do-it-yourself bath and body products.

CHILLED CUCUMBER EYE MASK Makes several applications It’s practically a cliché to suggest chilled cucumbers as a remedy for puffy eyes, but the vegetable—so ubiquitous in this region and crawling and climbing all over our gardens this time of year—is packed with ascorbic acids (vitamin C), caffeic acids, manganese and beta-carotene, which can reduce water retention (the culprit in swollen eyes) and dark circles. Arnica oil, which is derived from a type of sunflower, also helps relieve discoloration in the skin and inflammation. ½ cucumber, peeled, pureed 2 t. local honey 10 drops arnica oil Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Chill for at least 10 to 15 minutes. Apply gently under each eye and leave for 10 minutes. Rinse with cold water. Store leftovers in a glass jar and refrigerate. 86

COOKS! 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

MINT HAND AND FOOT CREAM Makes about 6 oz. Follow the exfoliating gardener’s soap (recipe at right) with a soothing cream and your hands will be as good as new. Powder from the root of marshmallow plant has excellent anti-inflammatory properties, and has long been known as a powerful demulcent (a soothing product). Beeswax is a naturally nourishing moisturizer, and also contains anti-inflammatory and germicidal elements, which are excellent for healing all those nicks and scrapes from working in the soil. Olive oil is full of inflammation-inhibiting antioxidants, which can repair skin and establish a moisture barrier. Mint is both an aromatic treatment and an effective astringent. This cream is also great for use on the feet. (Cocoa butter, beeswax and marshmallow root powder can be found locally at The Herb Bar.) 1 oz. cocoa butter 1 oz. beeswax 1 oz. olive oil 1 oz. marshmallow root powder 1 T. minced fresh mint 5 drops tea tree oil In a small pan on the stovetop, combine the cocoa butter and beeswax and melt together on low heat. Once fully melted, remove from the heat and pour into a bowl. Add the olive oil and stir vigorously, then add the marshmallow root powder and stir. Add the mint and tea tree oil and stir. Apply to the hands and even the elbows. For feet, apply the cream then put on socks and leave overnight. Store in a glass jar and refrigerate.

GARDENER’S HAND SOAP Makes 6 bars Every gardener knows that working in the soil can take a toll on your hands and fingernails. This exfoliating soap provides an excellent way to rid your fingers of those stubborn layers of sticky soil. Dill is packed with skin-soothing vitamin A, and basil has many antibacterial, antibiotic and antifungal properties. Sea salt and pumpkin seeds are natural exfoliants, and tea tree oil contains antiseptic properties (it was the go-to antiseptic for generations in Australia before the advent of antibiotics). 1 lb. organic shea butter soap (available at most craft stores) Package of 6 soap molds (available at most craft stores) 1 bunch fresh dill, minced 1 bunch fresh basil, minced 1 c. pumpkin seeds, ground (a coffee grinder works well) 10–20 drops tea tree oil 1 c. sea salt Melt the soap in a pan on the stovetop at a low heat. Add the dill, basil, pumpkin seeds, tea tree oil and sea salt, mix well and remove from the heat. Once cooled, pour the mixture into the soap molds. Chill for at least an hour, or until the soap is hardened. Store in wax paper in a cool, dry place, or hand out to your gardening buddies.

FIG SKIN POLISH AND FACE MASK Makes 1–2 applications each Figs—those sweet, leathery-skinned fruits introduced to Texas by Spanish settlers—contain a host of antioxidants and fatty acids, plus magnesium, calcium, potassium and vitamins A, B1, B2 and C, all of which provide excellent benefits for your skin. Mashed, fresh figs have long been used as a remedy for acne, warts, wrinkles and even the early stages of chicken pox (not that we suggest this!). Try this polish and mask once or twice a week to even out skin tone and flush oxidants. For the skin polish: 1 T. raw dark brown sugar 2 t. honey 2 fresh, ripe figs (skin and all) Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl and mash together well with a fork. (Optional: Chill for 30 minutes). Gently rub on the face and neck in small, circular motions. Rinse well, and follow with the fig face mask. Store any leftovers in a glass jar and refrigerate.

For the face mask: 1 T. yogurt (we like Wateroak Farm and Swede Farms’ goat milk yogurt) 2 fresh, ripe figs (skin and all) 1 T. honey Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl and mash together well with a fork. (Optional: Chill for 30 minutes). Apply to the face, neck and chest and let dry for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse with cold water. Store any leftovers in a glass jar and refrigerate. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS

Blue Note Bakery

Alamo Pecan & Coffee Company We sell freshly shelled pecan halves and pieces as well as a variety of gourmet pecan candies and gourmet coffees. Large variety of gift baskets and tins. 325-372-5275 601 E. Wallace, San Saba alamopecan.com

Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class, or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a famly-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com

Royalty Pecan Farms A family owned and operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts. 979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy 21 E, Caldwell royaltypecans.com

Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com

BAKERIES Blackbird Bakery Blackbird Bakery is the premier supplier of prepared gluten-free pastries, breads and gluten-free flour blends in Austin. 512-971-7955 blackbird-bakery.com 88

COOKS! 2014

Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com

The Red Oak Bakery A 100% dedicated gluten-free bakery. We bake from scratch, using the highest quality organic, local and sustainable ingredients. 830-214-6911 596 S. Castell Ave., New Braunfels redoakbakery.com

Royers Pie Haven Royers Pie Haven is a place you can come grab a slice of handmade sweet and savory pies, amazing coffee & sweet treats. 512-474-2800 2900 B Guadalupe St. 979-249-5282 190 Henkel Circle, Round Top royerspiehaven.com

BEVERAGES Alamosa Wine Cellars Making cool wines from warm climate grapes at the top of the Texas Hill Country since 1999. Tempranillo, Syrah, Viognier, Sangiovese, Verdelho, Graciano. 325-628-3313 677 County Rd. 430, Bend alamosawinecellars.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits

Wedding Oak Winery

Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Texas winery using 100% Texas grown wine grapes located in a historic 1926 building. Open 7 days a week. Specializes in Mediterranean varietals. Great patio. 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com

Perissos Vineyards Only one hour west of Austin, Perissos Vineyards is passionate about using only Texas-grown fruit to produce exceptional wines. Casual atmosphere. 512-820-2950 7214 Park Rd. 4, Burnet perissosvineyards.com

Real Ale Brewing Co. Welcome to the Texas Hill Country - the home of Real Ale Brewing Company, where a dedicated team of brewers produces quality handcrafted ales. 830-833-2534 realalebrewing.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Hills Vineyard Barcelona Celler Spanish wine with a Texas accent! Russell Smith crafts premium wine in Spain for his friends in Texas. barcelonacellertinto.blogspot.com

Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422; brooklynbrewery.com

Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 930-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

The Austin Winery

Vineyards, winery and tasting room. 830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg hilmywine.com

The Austin Winery is a boutique, urban winery sourcing grapes from premier regions of California and Texas to handcraft artisanal wines. 713-724-0942 9007 Tuscany Way, Ste. 100A theaustinwinery.com

Moonshine Sweet Tea

Tito’s Handmade Vodka

Hilmy Cellars

We are based in Austin, TX and make fair trade certified organically sweetened soft drinks and lemonades available on fountain and in bottles. 888-793-3883 6500 River Place Blvd., Bldg.2 Ste. 102 moonshinesweettea.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 512-252-3206 utexaspress.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food and surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Casual Cottages by Trendmaker Trendmaker Homes makes it easy to build a new home on your land. Come visit one of our two Model Home Parks in Round Top or Wimberley, TX. 512-392-6591 6555 RR 12, San Marcos texascasualcottages.com

Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836 texasovenco.com

AUSTIN’S NEIGHBORHOOD GROCERY )8 6%-2)= 786) 34)2 23;

+6%& +3 • 78%40)7 ;-2) &))6 • +3961)8 ()0 '%8)6-2+ • 092', 74)'-%07 3RD & LAVACA • 4TH & NUECES 6TH & CONGRESS • 3RD & BRAZOS 51 RAINEY STREET WWW.ROYALBLUEGROCERY.COM

Grow Locally, Cook Globally 16 th A nnuAl F All F estivAl

Sunday, October 26

Lettuce help you grow your own!

Gates open from noon to 3pm Boggy Creek Farm - Food from Austin’s top restaurants - Chef demonstrations - Live music

Tickets available online

www.greencornproject.org $35 in advance, $40 at the door, children under 12 free

8648 OLD BEE CAVES RD. (512)288-6113 www.naturalgardeneraustin.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS! 2014

edible MARKETPLACE Boggy Creek Farm

Fresh Produce Stand: August thru October: Wed. & Sat. November thru July: Wed. thru Sat. 8 AM to 1 PM www.boggycreekfarm.com

Johnny G’s Meat Market High quality, free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat from truly wild animals. And Diamond H Ranch Quail!

Made especially for Johnny G’ s Meat Market 11600 Manchaco Rd. H, Austin, TX 78748 (512)280-6514

The Best Little Meat Market In South Austin.

Order Online www.brokenarrowranch.com

2804 HWY 21 E Bastrop TX

(Across from the State Park)

512-280-6514 11600 Manchaca Rd., Suite H, Austin, TX 78748

doslunascheese.com • 512-963-5357

johnnygbutcherblock.com

Secede Responsibly

Sun-Thur: 10:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Fri & Sat: 10:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. RoadhouseBastrop.com

Jalapeno Cream Cheese Burger

One of Texas Monthly’s Best in Texas!

COOKS! 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

www.whitehatrum.com www.facebook.com/whitehatrum

™

Pure Michigan maple syrup, maple candy and assorted seasonal jams and jellies.

blackberryblossomfoods.com blackberryblossomfoods@gmail.com

Gallery & Nursery Offering Landscape Design & Installation 900 Hwy 290 West, Dripping Springs 512-569-0175 • www.solsticegardens.com

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supporting local food with FARM TO TABLE DINNERS TUES. THROUGH SAT.

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• Local Ingredients • No Corn Syrup • Special orders Available Visit our Treat Truck at Native South 10106 S. Manchaca!

EdibleAustin.com/insiders

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COOKS! 2014

edible DC

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of the Capitol Region, Season by Season

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communtiies

edible LOUISVILLE® & THE BLUEGR ASS REGION

Celebrating the Pleasure of Local Food and Beverage

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edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 25 • Summer 2014

edible Toronto Member of Edible Communities

AND THE GOLDEN HORSESHOE

No. 15 • Spring 2011

edible TULSA

Inspired | Informative | Influential

Spring’s Bean Sprung! Overindulge in Asparagus while the Local Pickings are Good Romance the Palate, Latin American Style Taste Prince Edward County Resurrect Tradition

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities

EDUCATION Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743 6020-B Dillard Cir. escoffier.edu

Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance FARFA is a national organization that supports independent family farmers and protects a healthy and productive food supply for American consumers. 254-697-2661 farmandranchfreedom.org

The Natural Epicurean The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes. Learn here—change your kitchen; change your life. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

EVENTS Edible Austin Chef Auction This exciting live auction charity event benefits two local nonprofits on Thursday, October 9 from 6–9 pm at The Allan House. 512-441-3971 1104 San Antonio St. edibleaustin.com/auction

Fair Market A one-of-a-kind eastside neighborhood events space. 512-582-0844 1100 E. 5th St. fairmarketaustin.com

Gruene Music & Wine Festival Gruene Music & Wine Festival is gearing up for the 28th year! Join us October 9th to Sunday, October 12th, 2014 in Gruene Historic District. 830-629-5077 1601 Hunter Rd., New Braunfels gruenemusicandwinefest.org

La Dolce Vita Food & Wine Festival at The Contemporary Austin Experience tastings from the most talked about chefs in Central Texas and selections from local and international wineries, all in one night. 512-453-5312 3809 W. 35th St. (Laguna Gloria) thecontemporaryaustin.org/event/ la-dolce-vita/

Palm Door on Sixth

Lone Star Farmers Market

Greenling

Palm Door on Sixth is the most versatile event space located in downtown Austin’s Historic Entertainment District for parties up to 1000 people. 512-391-1994; 508 E 6th St. palmdoor.com

Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com

Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food! 512-440-8449 greenling.com

San Saba Pecan Jam On The Square One-day festival in historic downtown San Saba that features Texas wines, Texas spirits, Texas food, Texas products, and especially Texas pecans. Great fun! 210-722-4474 Courthouse Square, San Saba pecanjam.com

Sculpture on Main Join us October 18 for a Sip and Stroll along Main Street in historic downtown Marble Falls. Over 20 unique and wonderful sculpture pieces on display. 830-693-2815; Main St., Marble Falls marblefalls.org

Texas Craft Brewers Guild The Texas Craft Brewers Guild promotes Texas craft beer, advances the common interest of Texas craft brewers and produces the Texas Craft Brewers Festival. 317-501-8067 texascraftbrewersguild.org

Texas Reds Festival Texas Reds Festival is held in Historic Downtown Bryan the last weekend in September featuring the best in Texas wine, steak, beer, music and art. 979-822-4920; 216 W. 26th St., Bryan texasredsfestival.com

The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas

Sustainable Food Center SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

Boggy Creek Farm

Wheatsville Food Co-op

Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 am–1 pm, Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 am–2 pm, the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org

One of the first Urban Farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Stroll the farm and visit the hen house! 512-926-4650; 3414 Lyons Rd. boggycreekfarm.com

Coyote Creek Organic Farm and Feed Mill

Wurstfest Association

Richardson Farms

HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo Sundays 11 am–3 pm. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832; 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org

Royal Blue Grocery

FARMS

Texas Farmers Market

Coyote Creek Organic Feed Mill produces certified organic, non-GMO feed for all types of livestock. We are dedicated to local, organic and sustainable Ag. 512-285-2556 13817 Klaus Ln. coyotecreekfarm.org

FARMERS MARKETS

Jardine’s has been a producer of premium quality southwestern foods since 1979. Produce lines include salsa, hot sauce, bbq sauce, chili mix & seasonings. 800-544-1880 #1 Chisholm Trail, Buda jardinefoods.com

Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 512-480-0036 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas is a membership nonprofit using our passion for wine and food to better the health and well-being of our community. 512-327-7555 winefoodfoundation.org

German sausage festival in New Braunfels, Texas. 830-625-9167 wurstfest.com

Jardine Foods

Our cattle are strictly grassfed. The hogs and chickens are pastured and are never given any growth hormones or antibiotics. 512-446-2306 richardsonfarms.com

GROCERS

Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888 4001 S. Lamar Blvd. wheatsville.coop

Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY

Farmhouse Delivery We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com

Blue Lux Fashion with a conscience! Organic, fair trade, local clothing and accessories. 512-284-9969 4477 S. Lamar, Ste. 590 blueluxfashion.com

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Peoples Rx

Barton Springs Nursery

Brenham/Washington County CVB

Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com

Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the Birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site. Scenic drives, wineries, great lodging. 979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear, from feed to seed... and a whole lot more! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com

Der Küchen Laden Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchenware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out! 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

Faraday’s Kitchen Store Austin’s best source for cookware, bakeware, knives, kitchen tools, cooking classes and so much more! 512-266-5666 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540, Bee Cave faradayskitchenstore.com

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

The Great Outdoors Nursery A garden store and so much more! 512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

LODGING AND TOURISM Agarita Creek Hill Country Ranch Retreat Stay in secluded bliss in one of two spacious log houses on a bluff overlooking the Pedernales River and Fredericksburg on a 170 acre ranch. Perfect for families, gatherings of friends or just you two. 830-992-5283 968 Braeutigam Rd., Fredericksburg agaritacreek.com

LANDSCAPE AND ENVIRONMENTAL

Blanco Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau

Austin Water Austin Water is committed to providing for Austin’s current and future water needs in a reliable and sustainable way. 512-972-0101 austintexas.gov/department/water

A non-profit association that works to promote and enhance the vitality of Downtown Georgetown and encourages the growth in the Downtown business district. 512-868-8675 103 W. 7th St., Georgetown thegeorgetownsquare.com

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

Travaasa Experiential Resorts Experiential Resort. 512-364-0061 13500 FM 2769 travaasa.com

W Austin

Fun and functional finds will make the casual cook look and feel like a celebrated chef. Gadgets to simplify, or tablescapes to mystify can all be found, in one spot. 512-480-0171 241 W. 3rd St. servegourmet.com

Serve Gourmet

Downtown Georgetown Association

Discover the fun and beauty of the Texas Hill Country in Blanco. We are your source of where to eat, shop, stay and play in Blanco. 830-833-5101 312 Pecan St., Blanco blancochamber.com

Unleash your inner soul man, rock god or indie hipster with a stay at the latest destination sensation in Austin— W Austin, featuring Trace and Away Spa. 512-542-3600 200 Lavaca St. whotelaustin.com

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART The Contemporary Austin The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education, and the collections. With two locations and the Art School, The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Nunnally and Freeman Dentistry Holistic dentists known the world over for excellence. 830-693-3646 2100 Hwy. 1431 W., Marble Falls healthysmilesforlife.com

The Purple Fig Cleaning Co. We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children. 512-351-1405 cleanfig.com

REAL ESTATE Land & Ranch Realty, LLC Assisting buyers and sellers in Texas land transactions involving ranches, farms and live water recreational properties. 210-275-3551 382 Hwy. 83 S., Leakey landandranchrealty.com

RESTAURANTS 416 Bar & Grille Americana cuisine in the heart of Austin. Family owned and operated neighborhood bar and grille serving fresh food and hand-crafted drinks on Burnet Road. 512-230-8222 5011 Burnet Rd., Ste. 150 416barandgrille.com

Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Buenos Aires Cafe

Marta Stafford Fine Art Located in the Texas Hill Country, housed in a historic early 1900s bank. Work by national & regional artists. Figural work, Impressionistic landscapes and more. 830-693-9999 200 Main St., Marble Falls martastaffordfineart.com

Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave buenosairescafe.com

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presents

Currently showing on PBS Television Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com

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Cafe Josie

Kerbey Lane Cafe

The Turtle Restaurant

Mission Restaurant Supply

Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients. 512-322-9226 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste! 512-451-1436 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451 3003 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-258-7757 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500 4301 W. William Cannon kerbeylanecafe.com

Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

Mission Restaurant Supply is a full-service dealer for top of the line food service equipment and supplies. Come shop with us. We are open to the public! 512-389-1705 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 210-354-0690 1126 S. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio 361-289-5255 1737 N. Padre Island Dr., Corpus Christi 956-467-1295 3422 N. 10th St., McAllen 817-265-3973 2524 White Settlement Rd., Ft. Worth missionrs.com

TNT/Tacos and Tequila

Chez Nous A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com

East Side Pies We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Gluten-free options, too! 512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Finn & Porter Finn & Porter is fresh and modern. Locally sourced and exquisitely presented. The freshest seafood, steaks, sushi and produce the state of Texas has to offer. 512-493-4900 500 E. 4th St. finnandporteraustin.com

Green Pastures Located in old South Austin a mile-anda-half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747 811 W. Live Oak St. greenpasturesrestaurant.com

Hoover’s Cooking From scratch Texas home cooking. Serving comfort food favorites like CFS, meatloaf and southern-style veggies; vegetarian options. BBQ, Sat. and Sun. breakfast. 512 479-5006 2002 Manor Rd. hooverscooking.com

Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Old 300 BBQ Old 300 BBQ is the best BBQ in Blanco, TX. You can enjoy great food with friends and family while watching TV and listen to great music. Come and eat it! 830-833-1227 318 4th St., Blanco old300bbq.com

Otto’s German Bistro Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats. Local beers and wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com

Ronin Cooking, LLC Chef Brian Light and his wife Amanda operate out of an old barn converted into a commercial kitchen. Full Moon dinners on their farm and other special events. 979-574-8745 RoninCooking.com

Snack Bar Chef-driven, globally inspired & locally sourced menu with eco-vineyard wine, craft beer, artisan coffee and tea in a stylish relaxed space. Bring the dog. 512-445-2626 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com

ThunderCloud Subs For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com

Fresh, handmade, and local describe this southwestern grill and tequila bar. 2013 Zagat listed TNT #1 in their top ten places to sip tequila in the US. 512-436-8226 507 Pressler St. tacos-and-tequila.com

We Olive Offering artisan olive oils, aged balsamics, gourmet foods, and gifts! Our wine bar features boutique wines, local craft beers, and a small bites menu. 512-382-6517 12800 Hill Country Blvd., Ste. G-130, Bee Cave weolive.com/austin

Paella Mix Paella Mix “Online Store” is the easiest way to buy authenthic Paella stuff such as Paella Mix, Paella Pans, Cazuelas for tapas, etc. 512-577-5251 paellamix.com

For information on advertising and listings in the directory, email dawn@edibleaustin.com.

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

SPECIALTY MARKET For Goodness Sake Natural Foods Family owned and operated health food store featuring high quality supplements, all-natural and organic bodycare plus unique grocery items. 830-606-1900 1306 E. Common St., Ste. 101, New Braunfels fgsnb.com

Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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Do Ho Suh, Specimen Series: Stove, 348 West 22nd Street, APT. New York, NY 10011, USA, 2013. Polyester fabric and stainless steel wire. 73 2/3 x 36 1/5 x 34 3/5 inches. Edition of 3. Courtesy the artist and Lehmann Maupin, New York and Hong Kong.

ART DE TERROIR

Do Ho Suh September 20, 2014 – January 11, 2015 On view at the Jones Center and Laguna Gloria Good Taste: Home is where [ ] Thursday, October 2

6:30 – 8:30 pm

Jones Center Roof Deck

Co-presented by Edible Austin International artist Do Ho Suh remembers the spaces and qualities of his past homes through his art. Inspired by the artist’s soft sculptures of domestic architecture and appliances, this delicious program explores how food conjures memory of home and how migration changes cuisines. Light bites provided by Kin & Comfort, Snack Bar and The Gardener’s Feast’s Tamale Addiction, along with local spirits by Paula’s Texas Spirits and live music. Advance tickets recommended. $25/$20 for members and available at thecontemporaryaustin.org

Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312

Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 458 8191

thecontemporaryaustin.org

Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380

Food for Thought WHOLE FOODS = ORAL HEALTH = HEALTHY BODY

THE BIG IDEA! Your overall health is intimately linked to your oral health! Nunnally & Freeman, holistic dentists in Marble Falls, follow specific protocols that promote healing in a unique and relaxing environment. Doctors from around the world have come to learn from us, and patients from 28 countries and all 50 states have been referred to Nunnally & Freeman for comprehensive holistic dentistry. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why....

I.V. CONSCIOUS SEDATION & GENERAL ANESTHESIA : allows patients to have all of their dentistry performed in one visit

VITAMIN C-IV & ACUPRESSURE : offer a holistic way to support the immune system and facilitate quick healing COMPREHENSIVE TREATMENT : esthetic restorations and surgical procedures delivered by a staff with more than 300 years experience BIOCOMPATIBILITY TESTING : ensures compatible dental materials are used for each individual patient PATIENT COORDINATORS : are available to facilitate every aspect of your visit with exceptional, personalized care

Drs. Freeman, Nunnally and Owens

HealthySmilesforLife.com

(888) 690-3646

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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Learn about Whole Kids Foundation速 and apply for a garden grant at wholekidsfoundation.org.

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