Edible Austin Fresh 2018 by Edible Austin

No. 56 Jan/Feb | Fresh 2018

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

the

Fresh issue

cocktail ice tech to table & more

where good times and great meals

bring people together

We deliver the finest All Natural Angus Steaks from our Farm to your home. Quality is bred into everything we do and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be able to taste the difference.

44farms.com

Do you deck out your Bloody Mary surf n’ turf style with a mini slider and a fried prawn floating next  to your picked green  beans and celery? DOESN’T MAKE YOU A BAD PERSON.

=recipe= ★ 1½ oz. Tito’s

Handmade Vodka ★ 3-4 oz. your favorite

Bloody Mary mix Combine with ice, shake well and pour into a highball glass.

Check out more recipes at TitosVodka.com

Garnish ideas: Celery, olives, dill pickles, pickled green beans, lemon wedge, parsley sprig, bacon, cheese cubes, etc…

.beer

NOW IN 12 PACKS, YA HERD? 4

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

CONTENTS fresh issue 8 notable MENTIONS 10 notable EDIBLES Matchpoint, Mother Culture.

17 edible ENDEAVOR Acornseekers.

32 cooking FRESH

Navigating the tofusion.

36 cooks AT HOME

Guy Forsyth.

40 40 hip girl’s guide to HOMEMAKING

First bites.

42 department of organic YOUTH

Mastering vegan baking.

FRESH features 14 The Ice Man Crafteth

Building on Fat Ice.

20 Hometown Heroes Rolling in the relief.

47 The Directory

24 Boys in the ’Hood The neighborhood pizza joint straight from Detroit.

50 edible INK

A guide to deciphering dessert.

COVER: Fat Ice (page 14). Photography by Melanie Grizzel.

28 Tech to Table A sea change in our food economy.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE BITTERSWEET CHANGES

PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

Marla Camp, Ronda Rutledge of Sustainable Food Center, Jenna Northcutt and Max Elliot of Urban Roots at our Annual Chef Auction

DIGITAL CONTENT COORDINATOR Darby Kendall

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore

MARKETING SPECIALIST Rachel Davis

hirteen years ago, my mom walked to the mailbox to get our mail and came back with a business card from our longtime neighbor’s sister-in-law, Marla

Camp. The card stated that Marla was looking for an intern, and a week later, I had

DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

an internship with her graphic-design firm. That internship turned into a part-time

FOUNDER

job while I was still at the University of Texas, then became full-time employment

Marla Camp

once I graduated. When they say it’s all about who you know, nothing could be closer to the truth for me. Had my parents not moved our family from Louisiana to Texas and picked that house, I wouldn’t be where I am today. And I can’t thank them enough for all of their support. After a few years of us working together, Marla stumbled on an Edible Brooklyn magazine while traveling. She excitedly told me about it, and admitted she’d always wanted to start a magazine. About two weeks later, she announced that we were going to start Edible Austin and I was going to be the associate publisher! After a quick Google search, I still wasn’t sure what I’d be doing but told her I was game to

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

give it my all. I’m glad I did because I’ve learned so much from her over the last 13 years—from working with printers to making sure we give back to our community every chance we get. It’s been an honor and a privilege to work with the ever-inspiring Marla Camp, and now we’re embracing a change together as Marla steps down as publisher of this magazine. I’m excited to accept the baton she has passed to me and I aspire to continue the great work she has spearheaded over the last 10 years. We’ve put together an amazing team, and I know they will be right by my side to help push forward our mission. I have some big shoes to fill and look forward to the challenge of continuing this great legacy.

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2018. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

learn alongside austin experts

9 Classes

Buy a la Carte or join us for all

Crack Open a Cold One

Make Whey

with THE ABGB in February

with Dos Lunas Cheese in September

Preserving Texas

Mix it uP

with confituras in early spring

with Cannon and Belle in October

Tacos & Tap

All things cookie

with Austin Taco Project in May

pick your flavor

with Lick Honest Ice Creams in July

with Make it Sweet in December

Announcing more soon!

Presented by

limited seatingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;tickets at edibleAustin.com/edl

“The Ultimate Nursery for Herbs” Austin Chronicle

MICHAEL POLLAN TAKES US DOWN HIS PATH

Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners

The Long Center stage will host Michael Pollan, the professor,

itsaboutthyme.com

512-280-1192

notable MENTIONS

11726 Manchaca

journalist and author of wellknown titles such as “In Defense of Food” and “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” on Friday, February 2. The event, called “One Writer’s Trip—From the Garden to the Plate and Beyond,” is an au-

Start Fresh Peoples Rx 3-Day Seasonal Cleanse

tobiographical

journey

where

Pollan takes us down the path of past ideas and writing, as well as a glimpse into a work in progress, followed by a moderated Q&A and discussion after the show. Tickets start at $32. For more information, visit thelongcenter.org.

COME EXPERIENCE AUSTIN ON EXHIBIT On Sunday, February 18, join the Blanton Museum of Art in celebrating the legacy of Ellsworth Kelly through the exhibition of his most monumental work, “Austin.” The 2,715-square-foot stone building of colored glass, wooden sculpture, marble and stone was gifted to the Blanton in 2015 and will become a cornerstone of

order at Any or online at PeoplesRx.com/Cleanse

the museum’s permanent collection. Celebrate the opening of this exhibition and experience Austin as the “place of calm and light” the artist intended. Spectrum Colors Arranged by Chance IX, (detail) 1953. ©Ellsworth Kelly Foundation. Photo courtesy Matthew Marks Gallery. For more information, visit blantonmuseum.org.

FARMERS, RANCHERS AND GARDENERS UNITE! This year, the 2018 Texas Organic Farmers &

ORDERING ONLINE NOW! SLICE HAPPY HOUR MON-FRI 2 - 5 PM

Gardeners Association (TOFGA) Conference will gather hundreds of farmers, ranchers and gardeners in Georgetown to share ideas, network and build

• Artisan thin crust pizza • Homemade sauces & premium cheese • Locally sourced meats & produce offerings

www.EastSidePies.com 8

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

community.

The

three-day

confer-

ence, held from Thursday, February 1 through Saturday, February 3, will take place at the Sheraton Georgetown Hotel

Conference Center. The conference features two days of learning sessions, additional workshops and tour add-ons, and a locally sourced banquet and keynote on Friday night. Visit tofga.org for more details and to register.

presents the sixth annual

CHILDREN'S

PICNIC

Pasta & Co 3502 Kerbey Lane

A REAL FOOD FAIR

512-453-0633

www.austinpasta.com

authentic | creative | contemporary

Rosewood Park • 2300 Rosewood Ave.

Sunday, April 8 P&C VDay edible austin ad_F 092315.indd 1

fresh

i n t i m at e9/23/15

rustic

5:36 PM

DINNER TUESDAY-SUNDAY 5-10

CELEBRATE SPRING (AND CHILDREN) WITH US IN ROSEWOOD PARK Austin’s Rosewood Park will once again host Edible Austin’s

LUNCH TUESDAY-SATURDAY 11-2

annual Children’s Picnic: A Real Food Fair. Held on Sunday, April 8, from 1 to 5 p.m., the fair includes opportunities to plant

BRUNCH SUNDAY 10:30-2:30

your own garden, learn more about beekeeping, try new cooking skills and enjoy live music. Local farmers, artisans and vendors will join us at the park with delicious goods to sample and sell, which you can bring back to your picnic blanket to soak in the beautiful spring day. Visit edibleaustin.com for more information.

512.847.5700 JOBELLCAFE.COM 16920 RANCH ROAD 12 WIMBERLEY, TX

SAVE ROOM FOR AUSTIN FOOD & WINE FEST 2018 Save the date—and some room in your belly—for the 2018 Austin Food & Wine Festival, which will take place from Friday, April 27 through Sunday, April 29. All weekend long you’ll indulge in ar-

JOIN US FOR THE

ANNUAL CONFERENCE

tisanal food, wine, beer and spirits from hundreds of purveyors; learn from any of the 40 expert-run demos and tasting sessions; and mix and mingle with top chefs and other avid food enthusiasts. Tickets go on sale mid-January. To stay up to date on the latest, visit austinfoodandwinefestival.com.

EAT DRINK LOCAL SERIES IS BACK AGAIN Want to learn more about the making of your

Celebrating 25 years of sustainable and organic agriculture in Texas!

favorite fares? Expand your local food knowledge and cooking expertise with our 2018 Eat Drink Local workshops. Don’t miss out on the chance to take nine unique courses,

OFFERING 35+ LEARNING SESSIONS WITH EXPERTS, PLUS A LOCALLY-SOURCED BANQUET DINNER WITH KEYNOTE SPEAKER MICHAEL ABELMAN, A PIONEER OF THE ORGANIC FARMING AND URBAN AGRICULTURE MOVEMENTS!

ranging in focus from beer to cheese, taught by some of Austin’s best cuisine connoisseurs. Tickets for the series are on sale now at edibleaustin.com/edl.

February 1-3, 2018

Georgetown, Texas

FIND OUT MORE AT WWW.TOFGA.ORG

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

notable EDIBLES ON POINT

ay you want to start an 18-hole miniature golf-themed bar. What do you write in the business plan? Where do you find a space? What kind of special liability insurance will

cover the possibility of a drunk player barfing in the lighthouse statue on hole 11? Enter Matchpoint. A seed-fund organization for Austin-area bars and other entertainment ventures, Matchpoint helps entrepreneurs navigate the city’s unique financial, legal and real estate hurdles. “There was a time in Austin when you could run $20,000 off a credit card or borrow from a buddy and open a bar,” says Carlos Gacharna, co-founder of Matchpoint. “That time is starting to diminish.” When Gacharna opened the local gnome-themed bar Dirty Bill’s, pressure from the established nightlife players, groups of investors from other cities and rising rents weren’t problems he had to deal with. So, rather than expand into an “empire,” he went the other direction. Two years ago, he sold his share in Dirty Bill’s to help other people start bars of their own. “It’s harder for people

that he first entered as a bouncer. “We’re their security blanket.” To cover business questions and legal concerns, Gacharna brought aboard entrepreneur Adam Morehead and lawyer Dan Price. For a percentage of the eventual enterprise, the trio helps clients write business plans, hunt for venues, wade through city permits, pitch to investors and tackle the countless other details involved in starting a place, like securing artificial turf for an 18hole miniature-golf bar. Yes, the mini-golf bar idea is real—it’s called Putt Pub—and it’s set to open in San Marcos soon. “It’s more exciting to see young people with energy bring their bars to life than it is for me to keep opening them myself,” says Gacharna. “I never would have thought of a miniature-golf bar.” —Steve Wilson Find out more at matchpoint.link or call 512-961-1885.

to get over the humps,” he says of the Austin nightlife business

JON TAFFER AND HARBORTOUCH ARE CREATING A

Smart POS System

No Up-Front Cost! 30-day Trial Low Monthly Fee Lifetime Warranty HarbortouchGeorgetown.com

631-754-2977

weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned

1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com 10

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

THE GOOD MOTHER

CRAFT CIDER TA P R O O M N O W O P E N

holesome name, edgy ingredients. To make Mother Culture Yogurt, Michelle Numbers starts with raw milk—currently illegal to buy in Texas anywhere but

straight from a licensed dairy farm. Don’t worry, though, it’s not as sketchy as it sounds. “We have a manufacturer permit from the

AUSTIN

Health Department, so we’re not doing deals in a parking lot,”

HOURS AND DETAILS AT:

says Numbers, owner and founder of Mother Culture. Instead, she

www.texaskeeper.com

@txkeepercider

has big batches of raw milk delivered to her San Antonio commercial kitchen from Miller Farms, in LaCoste, the kind of place that raises Jersey cows on natural grass and gives them names.

M OV I N G YO U IN THE R I G H T DIRECTIO N.

Numbers takes this cream-rich milk and preps it using a special low-heat pasteurization technique to save the proteins and probiotics that traditional flash-pasteurization warps or strips away. “One of the primary reasons more kids are allergic to milk is because the milk they’re given isn’t the milk our ancestors drank,” she says. In fact, food allergies are what inspired Numbers to start Mother Culture in the first place. When her daughter, then 2 years old, had stomach and skin trouble, cooking-novice Numbers started making all her food from scratch. Discovering she had a particular flair for yogurt, she launched Mother Culture two years ago. She makes both a classic thin (and drinkable) yogurt, and a thicker Greek-style yogurt in flavors that include

SOLD! BELL MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS

the basic (honey-vanilla, blueberry-lemon), the bold (piña colada, coffee) and the experimental (roasted pepper). “We try to get inspired by the food around us at the farmers market,” says Numbers, who sells yogurt as well as cream cheese, dips and kefir in

BARBARA VAN DYKE GRI, CLHMS, Realtor® Associate

512-431-2552

barbara.vandyke@sothebysrealty.com barbaravandyke.kuperrealty.com

Austin at the Texas Farmers’ Markets at Lakeline and Mueller and at Wheatsville Co-op. Even as Numbers expands into more stores across Texas (along with Austin, Mother Culture is available in San Antonio and New Braunfels), she plans to keep on using local ingredients when she can and organics when she can’t. “We’re stewards over the process,” she says. “We don’t want to do anything to mess it up.” —Steve Wilson Find out more at motherculturesa.com or call 210-343-2210.

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

CATERING. EVENT AND TENT RENTALS. FLORALS.

Leandra Blei Photography Anna Donlan Photography

www.whimhospitality.com

Top Texas Winery 2018 Houston Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition

at Phil’s for Parent’s Recess Daily from 3-5:30 pm

Try a taste of Comfort. 142 Lindner Branch Trail, Comfort, Texas

830-995-2948 | bendingbranchwinery.com

with locations in San Antonio, Houston and Smithville! amysicecreams.com | honeyspizza.com bakedbyamys.com | philsicehouse.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

PEOPLE

THE ICE MAN CRAFTETH BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

he cold doesn’t seem to bother Javier Roberto Flores—

McAllen. When he made the leap to Austin in 2013 to tend bar at

not even the 10-degree deep-chill of the industrial freezer

Midnight Cowboy, he brought his ice with him, and people no-

that houses the heart of his company, Fat Ice. With hard-

ticed. Soon he was selling so much ice on the side that he made a

ly a shiver, he walks around the bone-numbing room in a short-

full-time business out of it. After all, he couldn’t tend bar forever.

sleeved “#MakeIceGreatAgain” shirt, pointing out the tools of his

“Bartending really is a young person’s game,” he says. “I did a

trade: souped-up band saws, wax-lined cardboard packaging and

guest shift at a bar recently and looked like a fool.”

ice. Lots of ice.

Flores’ first stab at the craft ice biz, Big Ass Ice, ultimately

The ice is cut into squares and rectangles of different sizes,

failed, but he relaunched in 2015 with a new name and an advan-

ranging from a standard 2-inch block to hand-chipped spheres,

tage few other artisanal ice makers can boast of: a liquor retail-

but to call them ice cubes would be to do them an injustice. This

er as a partner. Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods delivers the

isn’t the kind of ice that spits out of a fridge in murky little wedges.

hundreds of ice cases he makes every month to all parts of Texas

This is solid, pure ice, sliced by hand into geometric perfection:

and helps him ship to other parts of the U.S. as well. Spec’s stores

the edges sharp, the sides as smooth and clear as glass. They’re

will also soon carry Fat Ice six-packs and other ice products. And

what ice cubes aspire to be, and what more and more bartenders

Spec’s provides Fat Ice’s state-of-the-art freezer—an unoccupied

prefer for their creations. “I like to compare it to a chef wanting a

spare in one of its Austin warehouses. “It had never been used,

good flame,” says Flores. “It’s what you build everything else on.”

except for a stray box of deer meat lying around when we moved

Maybe it sounds precious, but when everything else about

in,” Flores recalls.

modern cocktails has been so obsessively handcrafted, why not

Flores may soon need more freezers to grow Fat Ice the way he

artisanal ice, too? Fat Ice comes in four sizes that look odd until

intends. Though he put aside his undergrad business degree to pur-

you see them slip Tetris-smooth into a cocktail glass. Flores and

sue bartending in 2001, he can hold his own with seasoned MBAs

his crew cut them from big blocks like the kind that were once

when discussing distribution, packaging, wholesale and retail mar-

delivered door to door. One of these blocks stands in a corner of

ket penetration and other aspects of the business. He’s shipped

the freezer, tall, dark, polished and imposing, like an alien mother

custom orders all around the country, and plans to set up shop in

ship disgorging a fleet to conquer Earth. The block “grew” from

cities beyond Austin. “I’ve got a product that can work anywhere. I

a Clinebell, a premium ice machine that turns purified water into

don’t want to stop in Texas,” he says. “Let’s put it that way.”

frozen gold—crystal clear ice with no air bubbles or minerals, so it melts more slowly and doesn’t alter a drink’s flavor. The mas-

Find out more at faticeco.com or call 512-351-6767.

sive Clinebells are too big for Flores to run efficiently, so he orders the blocks from a few out-of-state sources. “Totally worth it,” he says. “Ice like this gives you the ability to better control the beverage. To let it taste the way it was intended to taste.” Flores can talk all day about ice—going on about pH levels, the effect of internal and external air temperature, how the crushed version of Fat Ice looks like “disco-ball lights.” He still spends 30 hours a week cutting ice himself, even though he has a crew of up to 10 to help. “I like that my guys and I can inspect each cube by hand,” he says. Flores cared about ice long before he started selling it. As a self-described “arrogant bartender” serving drinks in South Texas, Flores went on a 2011 cocktail research trip to Los Angeles in his ongoing quest for better ingredients. What he found was the start of the artisanal ice craze. Inspired, he began cutting his own ice for the bars and restaurants he managed back home in EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

Now with Two Tasting Rooms! Original in Stonewall and New 307 Main St. in Fredericksburg

Merlot & Chocolate Tasting Febuary 3-4 & 10-11 Hours: Monday - Thursday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sunday, Noon – 6 p.m. Last wine tasting, 30 min before closing.

www.beckervineyards.com 830-644-2681 Directions: 11 miles east of Fredericksburg, 3 miles west of Stonewall, off US Hwy 290 at Jenschke Lane.

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

edible ENDEAVOR

ACORNSEEKERS BY C L AY C O P P E D G E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S

or years, Sergio Marsal had dreamed of sharing the Spanish

more about raising Iberian pigs than just about anybody in the

cured-ham delicacy, jamón Ibérico de bellota, with the rest

world, but he had little access to capital; Marsal, a marketing con-

of the world—especially with the U.S. It was a dream borne

sultant, had contacts in the financial world, but he was no farmer.

of urgency after he’d moved from Spain to Miami in 2011 and

One day, Marsal was sharing his vision of American-raised

couldn’t find his beloved ham there or anywhere else in America.

Iberian pigs with friends and, amazingly, they said they knew

Unbeknownst to him, another Spaniard was having the same

of someone who had the same exact dream. As fast as he could,

dream. Manuel Murga, an agricultural engineer living in Spain,

Marsal flew to Barcelona to meet Murga, and five minutes after

grew up raising Iberian pigs—a breed that’s fed acorns for most

they met, they began drawing up a contract. “It was like magic to

or all of their lives, and whose meat produces that famous ham—

meet Manuel,” says Marsal. “And it was magic to make pigs fly and

just like his father and grandfather before him. Both Marsal and

bring them to the U.S.” Acornseekers was born.

Murga possessed their own gifts and limitations: Murga knew

Marsal loves to use the “when pigs fly” line, because he heard it EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

Sergio Marsal and Manuel Murga

when he first mentioned his idea to potential investors—“That’ll happen when pigs fly,” they said. But to get authentic Iberian pigs to the U.S., they did indeed have to fly them over on a plane from Spain, where the animals are revered and deeply respected. The process was fraught with protocol, vaccinations, disease monitoring, closed borders and bureaucracy. But in 2013, after countless setbacks and delays, an airplane carrying 145 purebred Iberian sows and five boars finally touched down in New York City. After a 30-day quarantine in Rock Tavern, New York, Marsal and Murga loaded the pigs onto a truck and drove them cross-country to their new South Texas home on the range. 18

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

After scouting many locations, the land Murga and Marsal eventually chose in Flatonia had been a working hog farm until about seven years ago when the owner got out of the business. But the owner, happy to see pigs on his land again, was open to leasing the land to Acornseekers. The pigs liked it, too, because it’s full of live oaks and, thus, acorns—the key ingredient in authentic jamón Ibérico de bellota (“bellota” being the Spanish word for acorn). Not all of the ham sold as jamón Ibérico comes from pigs that spent the winter fattening up on acorns, though. In Spain, the ham is marked with tags to differentiate between pork from mixedbreed pigs that are fed grain and the purebred, acorn-finished Iberian pigs, which receive a black label symbolic of the breed’s distinctive black hooves. Marsal says that Acornseekers’ pigs— which he and Murga classify as “Ibericus” pigs to note their U.S. origin—qualify for the black tag. Beginning in late September, during the pig-fattening season known in Spain as la montanera, Acornseekers ships their male pigs to four sites in Texas, as well as one in Florida and one in California. They refer to these farms as “affiliate farms,” and Marsal says they separate the valuable passel of hogs because they “realized it was really risky to have all the eggs in the same basket. If there was a natural disaster or disease, we think it’s better to have some of the pigs in a faraway place.” The ranchers on the affiliate farms were chosen because of the way they raise their own animals. “Too many of the [American] pig raisers are used to raising the pigs in a barn and not outside,” says Murga. “[Outside] is how we have raised these pigs for 2,000 years in Spain.” Murga says their Ibericus pigs are “like puppies all the time” and smart enough to realize that if they follow the humans around, good things will happen. The one bad day of their lives comes at about 18 months, compared to pig slaughtering at six months for most commercial operations. The meat is then cured for two years before it’s ready for the plate. Currently, a crew from Spain flies in to process the pigs in Brookshire, Texas. Marsal says they bring in their own crew because the Spanish processors are familiar with the particular cuts for jamón Ibérico and some other specialty cuts, and that the processing takes longer than what American processors are used to. But Acornseekers just bought 19 acres in Columbus, Texas, with plans to build their own processing facility. Marsal estimates that Acornseekers and its investors have put about $5 million into the operation so far, with about that much more slated for the new facility. In the meantime, he’s trying to get the word out about his Ibericus pigs and the ham they produce. “We want [the Columbus site] to be our headquarters,” he says, “with a retail shop and a restaurant where people can see all the process, from the live pigs and piglets and the live oaks and how they are processed and how we cure the pork for two years. Our mission now is to educate people about these pigs and this pork. Once they learn, they will appreciate it even more.” For more information on how and where to get jamón Ibérico de bellota, visit acornseekers.com or call 786-338-8160. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

edible ENDEAVOR

HOMETOWN HEROES BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y CO U RT ESY O F H - E- B

or two solid days, Hurricane Harvey had been dumping

stop helping Texans. As soon as the roads cleared, H-E-B sent out

gallons over Houston. Buildings, streets and bridges were

its custom mobile kitchens to provide food and other supplies

flooding, and businesses all over the city had shuttered.

to the hardest-hit areas. Before the government or any other re-

No one would have blamed Tony Klaus for closing the Kingwood

lief organization arrived, H-E-B was there with hot meals, water,

area H-E-B store he’d run since its grand opening just 10 months

prescription medications and other necessities to offer victims

before. But on August 29, he and a skeleton staff of 30 volunteer

in hurricane-ravaged towns including Victoria, Rockport, Hous-

employees did what they could to help several hundred shoppers

ton, Beaumont—and back to Rockport a second time. The effort

desperate to stock up for their extended stays at home.

helped hundreds of lives and won the company nationwide praise,

By 2 p.m., the store’s retention pond had maxed out and water in parts of the parking lot had risen to a foot and a half—creep-

but it wasn’t H-E-B’s first rodeo. In a sense, the company has been preparing for a disaster on the scale of Harvey for years.

ing up to the curb just outside the door. For the safety of staff and patrons, Klaus finally closed shop and locked the doors, not

DISASTER DEVELOPMENT

knowing what he’d find when he reopened them once the rains

One of the things Justen Noakes has learned since becoming

went away. “We took care of the customers as best we could, as

H-E-B’s director of emergency preparedness in 2008 is to think

long as we could,” he says.

the worst of any potential storm. When everyone assumed Harvey

Other H-E-B stores in Harvey-stricken areas of Texas also

would be a tropical storm a week before landfall, Noakes treated

stayed open as long as they could—during what some analysts

it like a Category 1 hurricane. That gave him a decent head start

have called the costliest natural disaster in U.S. history. But de-

when Harvey ballooned into a Category 4 within 36 hours. He

spite being forced to close the stores, the grocery chain didn’t

warned the stores at risk, planned where to send generators for

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

H-E-B’s CEO, Charles Butt and Director of Emergency Preparedness for H-E-B, Justen Noakes. One of the H-E-B Disaster Response Teams. power outages and pulled top-level H-E-B planners and directors

kitchenized semi-trucks in the late 1980s for its free Feast of Shar-

into a hurricane task force. “I always tell them their role is to do

ing holiday dinners. It turned out the vehicles’ abilities to serve

what they do every day, except on a hyperactive schedule,” says

thousands of meals an hour made them invaluable for feeding

Noakes. “If you’re the ice person during the day, you’re now the

people affected by the Guadalupe floods in the early 1990s and

ice person charged with buying a lot more ice and dealing with a

the disasters that followed. The unit has gotten so fast and effi-

different set of logistical issues.”

cient over the years that it was able to roll into Victoria a mere 24

Noakes’ job initially focused on protecting the flow of prod-

hours after Harvey had passed. From 4 a.m. to 11 p.m. each day, the

ucts to stores during a disaster. But after Hurricane Rita in 2005,

mobile kitchen team of 11 cooked for thousands of first respond-

he and the company realized they could do more to defend the

ers and locals, using beds, bathrooms and showers they brought

stores themselves. With each successive disaster, he and H-E-B

along with them to avoid draining local resources. Daniel Flores,

learned how to keep stores open longer, and by extension, feed

head of the Mobile Kitchens and Disaster Relief Units, saw the

more people. “The community we serve wasn’t demanding that

destruction in Victoria firsthand as he worked alongside his crew.

we stay open longer; it was more of an onus we put on ourselves,”

“It was heartbreaking,” he says. “A lot of folks had stayed and now

says Noakes. “We’ve tried to raise the bar with every disaster, an

they were trying to get their lives back together. But the unity you

evolution of our capability to respond.”

saw was amazing. One guy had driven up from Brownsville to give out supplies. I wished I could get that guy on my team.”

ROLLING RELIEF

Once electricity and water came back on in Victoria and other

A big part of that evolution has been the company’s fleet of

relief services rolled in, it was time to move on. This has become

aforementioned mobile kitchens. H-E-B originally created these

another of Noakes’ standard operating procedures: Get in first, EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

JOIN US

Half Off Our Pub Snacks. valid through March 1, 2018

artisanal cuisine. craft beer. live music.

Bacon Jam Fries

150 S. LBJ Dr., San Marcos Half a block south of the Square

OPEN DAILY!

“Best place to cure what ails you.”

WHEEZING AND SNEEZING? OUR HERBAL REMEDIES ARE PLEASING

provide immediate help, and when the situation is secure, move on to the next hot spot where FEMA needs them next. “We’re the early strike force that comes in to provide immediate relief,” says Noakes. “We go in quickly to provide meals to first responders and communities until an organization equipped to feed people

VISIT US 200 WEST MARY ST. AUSTIN

for longer comes in.” All told, H-E-B served 50,000 hot meals, delivered 75 truckloads of water and 21 truckloads of ice—plus 4,000 bags of cat

512-444-6251 THEHERBBAR.COM •

and dog food. When the worst of the crisis was over, the company continued feeding cleanup volunteers in places like Aransas Pass. It also pitched in for the string of disasters that followed Harvey outside of Texas, bringing 10 truckloads of food and water to Publix in Florida after Hurricane Irma, nine pallets of food to Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria, and more than 350 tons of food and

Green Mango Real Estate

water to Mexico after the earthquakes there.

RISING FROM THE WRECKAGE It’s easy to forget that H-E-B is itself a Harvey victim, with three locations left in ruins. The company has salvaged two of those stores, including the Kingwood location, which Klaus, at first, thought might never reopen. When he reentered the build-

We m a k e

ing three days after he locked the doors, he found it completely

buying and

ator cases had flipped over, and massive food bins had swum to

selling houses

remained intact, the rest of the 106,000-square-foot facility would

a delicious experience

trashed by the six feet of water that had filled it. Whole refrigerthe other side of the store. Though the ceiling, walls and floor have to be gutted and rebuilt from scratch. “I expected things to be bad, but not that bad,” says Klaus. H-E-B didn’t abandon the building, though, and neither did it abandon the more than 360 people who worked there. The company found jobs at nearby H-E-B stores for 300 employees and gave leaves of absence to 60 others who needed time off to rebuild

 ..

their lives. Most every Kingwood employee was set to come back when the store slated its second grand opening for mid-January. “Everyone’s looking forward to coming back to Kingwood,” says Klaus. “It’s been challenging, frustrating, hopeful—a little of ev-

www.g reenmangorealestate.com 22

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

erything. But it’s been pretty powerful what’s been accomplished.”

A ”Top It All ” CREAMY hot SAUCE

ATX

Local

S TAKE GAME TIME EATS OVER THE TOP! AVAILABLE ONLINE AT BLUETOPBRAND.COM OR at these local RETAILERS:

REAL FOOD FOR ALL Delicious Vegan Gluten Free Nothing Fake

Tempura Cauliflower Wrap

2129 E. 7TH STREET | 6539 BURNET ROAD WWW.FLYRITECHICKEN.COM

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

PEOPLE

BOYS IN THE ’HOOD BY A M Y M CC U L LO U G H • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

o the brothers Hunt—the siblings behind Via 313, Aus-

where they’re from, people don’t tend to venture outside of their

tin’s mini-chain of extremely popular Detroit-style piz-

neighborhoods much, so they eat what’s around. Austinites, on

za joints—pizza equals community. “It’s inclusive, that’s

the other hand, will travel for a craving, but the Hunts don’t want

what it’s about,” says Zane, the older of the two brothers. “We

them to have to. “That’s why we chose Oak Hill and now North

want people to feel like pizza represents community, gathering,

Campus—not being downtown—so we can have a little more

a pitcher of beer after a softball game. That’s the sort of stuff we

sense of community,” says Brandon.

grew up with,” he adds, recalling the pizza places in and around

In addition to their two brick-and-mortar locations and their

their hometown of Riverview, Michigan, a southern suburb of

two trucks at Sixth and Rainey Streets, the Hunts recently opened

Detroit.

Nickel City bar with Javelina’s Craig Primozich, and Travis Tober

But it’s not just about Detroit—the city from which the broth-

and J.R. Mocanu, both formerly of VOX Table. It’s in the location

ers’ sauce-on-top, chewy-cheesy deep-pan pizza takes its in-

of the historic Longbranch Inn on East 11th Street and includes a

spiration. “Pizza, as a whole, is like that, no matter what style,”

food truck out back—Delray Cafe—dishing out Detroit junk food,

says Brandon, whose demeanor, at first, seems slightly more se-

essentially: Coney dogs, cheese fries…what Brandon calls “reces-

vere than that of his energetic, talkative older brother Zane. But

sion-proof shit.”

despite a strong brow, armloads of tattoos and a big red-brown

But what Via 313 is exceedingly well-known for is pizza.

beard, Brandon speaks in a calm, metered, almost self-amused

Imagine a thick cushion of savory dough crisped all around with

way. Zane describes Brandon as having “a great eye for detail” and

delicious, browned cheese. Top that with traditional offerings,

as someone who’s “always been super entrepreneurial,” so their

such as meatballs and green peppers or the kind of pepperoni

collaboration was a no-brainer to him. Plus, he adds, “Brandon

that curls around the edges to form delightful, crisp little grease

and I have always been close.”

cups, and ladle the whole shebang with stripes of perfectly

Zane and his family moved to Austin in 2009 because he and

sweet, fresh-tasting tomato sauce. More sophisticated combos—

his wife wanted to find “a little more open-minded, little more

like Gorgonzola, fig preserves, prosciutto di Parma and Parme-

forward-thinking” environment in which to raise their kids. Soon

san topped with a balsamic glaze (“The Cadillac”)—are avail-

after, he admits he was trying to “grease it a little bit” to get Bran-

able, as well.

don down here, too. Zane was working a day job in radio-frequen-

It’s a base recipe many would call perfect, and it took the

cy identification (RFID) at the time, but says he “wanted to stop

Hunts about a year of experimenting to get it just right. “We had

working for someone, essentially.” He and Brandon, combined,

to reverse-engineer the things we liked about all these different

“had this desire to do something,” he recalls. “Pizza was just the

places back home,” says Zane. He describes a period of time when

most comfortable entry point for us.”

Brandon was still living in Michigan and the two of them collab-

Why? Probably because, as Zane puts it, they “grew up eating an obscene amount of pizza.” And, he notes, “It was really good pizza.” Brandon agrees, saying other cities are “all underserved pizza communities compared to where we grew up.” The Hunts cite a few favorite pizza haunts—Buddy’s and Cloverleaf, in particular—from their home in Detroit’s “very industrial, very blue collar” south suburb. But they also note that,

orated by constantly revising and emailing a Word document full of recipes back and forth. Brandon’s quick to note, “It’s not called ‘Detroit-style’ in Detroit, you know. You either get round pizza or square pizza. At the time, it was just ‘square pizza’—and it’s not even f*$#ing square,” he says with a laugh. “It’s a rectangle.” “They call it ‘Detroit-style’ now,” Zane interjects. “Everybody’s

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

jumped on that.” Regardless of what you call it, it’s delicious, and

WHAT’S DETROIT-STYLE PIZZA?

boy, was Austin ready for it. “Everything just seems to catch on [here],” says Brandon, “and people are excited about it and support it.”

The Hunt brothers suspect that Detroit-style pizza got its start thanks to Sicilian families settling in the Detroit

Then, in what almost seems like a setup, a customer ap-

area after World War II and bringing their family recipes

proaches the brothers at their Oak Hill location and says, “You

with them. It’s a feasible theory, considering sfincione, or

guys are the owners, right?” They confirm it to be true, and the

Sicilian-style pizza, has a similarly spongy crust to De-

customer, a youngish dad, relays a story of how he used to live

troit-style pies and cuts a four-sided figure. But it was the

by the Texas State Cemetery and would walk to Sixth Street

switch from baking sheets to automotive pans that made

“every freakin’ night” to get pizza. “It’s crazy,” the customer

this dish an American original. This wonder-cookware was

continues. “My wife and I got pregnant, so we moved down

originally used to hold small machine and car parts along

south to have our baby and then like six months later you guys

assembly lines in (where else?) Motor City. “The pans are

moved in here.”

what really make Detroit-style pizza its own thing,” says

“I followed you, man,” says Zane, only half-joking—after all,

Zane. They’re made of blue (or tempered) steel that “con-

Via 313 really wants to be your neighborhood pizza joint. “We’re

ducts heat perfectly for a balanced bake of both the cheese

here for you,” adds Brandon with a jovial vibe. And they are.

and crust,” he says. And the shape of the pans, along with their raised and tapered edges, allows for cheese to be built

For more information visit via313.com

up along the walls—an important feature.

So what makes a pizza Detroit-style? Rectangle Shape Everyone agrees is “square”

Sauce on top

Old-school, classic pizza toppings:

pepperoni, sausage and traditional veggies à la peppers, onions and mushrooms

Crunchy, caramelized cheese edges 26

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

A thick, soft and airy crust

Your Baking Headquarters Tools & Supplies

for making cakes, cookies and candies

Decorating Classes

beginner to advanced 9070 Research Blvd. (512) 371-3401 www.MakeItSweet.com

BEST BEST BEST AMERICAN GERMAN BOHEMIAN PILSNER

PILSNER

LARGE BREWPUB OF THE YEAR – Great American Beer Festival® 2016 + 2017; Rocket 100 – Gold Medal, American-Style Pilsener, GABF 2015 + 2017; Industry Pils – Gold Medal, German-Style Pilsener, GABF 2016; Velvet Revolution – Gold Medal, Bohemian-Style Pilsener, GABF 2017

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

edible TECH

TECH TO TABLE A Sea Change in Our Food Economy BY M I C H E L E JACO BSO N

hen the farm-to-table movement unfolded in the early

for our own groceries and cook them ourselves. Studies show that

2000s, it was an inspiration that changed the way a lot

cost is approximately $4 per meal, and this option allows us to eat

of us shop for and eat food. Today, however, many of us

any way we want. While 98 percent of Americans say they prefer to

are still just as likely to obtain food from a cardboard box or from

cook at home, only about a third say they do so daily. If you’re too

a bag delivered to our door as from the market.

busy to shop, online services, such as Instacart and Burpy, deliver

We’re gaining access to food in ways never before imagin-

groceries and other items to your door in as little as an hour via a

able. Take, for instance, the stratospheric early success of DIY

personal shopper. The surprising part about this ultra-convenient

meal-delivery kits containing prepackaged, pre-measured ingre-

service is that, while it comes at a price, that price isn’t hefty. De-

dients that allow busy people to tap into their yen to easily cook

pending on the company, size of the order and number of stores,

at home. Don’t want to cook? Online apps allow restaurants and

delivery fees range from free to $9.99, with applicable surcharges

drivers to streamline the food-delivery process. And for those

during surge hours. These services focus on personal interaction

who cook from scratch, shop-at-home delivery services bring gro-

between client and shopper via email, text or phone. The draw-

ceries right into the kitchen.

backs are no returns and no alcohol sales in most markets, and

The entire food system has changed—and quickly—and this

some reviewers report significant price hikes on certain products.

calls for reflection about how to be socially and environmentally

Another drawback to option one is that a lot of food that’s brought

conscious about the way we eat. We may be eating at home, but

into our homes is wasted. Analysts say that as much as 40 percent

are we eating better? And how is this trend affecting businesses

of food produced in America is discarded. Fortunately, home cooks

and their workers?

can easily remedy this with careful planning, prepping and storing.

THE CONSUMER EXPERIENCE

out. The approximate cost per takeout meal is $12.75 per person,

Option two has prepared food delivered to our door, aka takeIn-home dinner options can be categorized by cost, conve-

but some restaurants require minimum orders, and delivery fees

nience and quality of the meal experience. In option one, we shop

may apply, depending on the service. Despite these added costs,

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

the online delivery industry is booming—mostly propelled by interactive apps that showcase local menus and allow consumers to peruse and choose their food online. With credit card and address info saved in the app, it’s as easy as a few clicks for the consumer. Analysts attribute most of the growth in home delivery to millennials who don’t mind spending more money for the convenience. Key players in the Austin market are Favor and Postmates. Pizza delivery accounts for more than $10 billion of the $30 billion home-delivery market, followed by Asian food, sandwiches and Italian food. These four types of foods are popular for delivery mostly because they travel well. Plus, businesses have capitalized on making packaging part of the appeal and experience. (Think: the pizza box or the iconic Chinese takeout container.) But market shares are shifting fast as a wider variety of restaurants and cuisines enter the mix—spurred on mostly by independent delivery services. Of course, the main issue with eating prepared/delivered foods is poor nutrition, because the consumer has no control over what they’re eating. Studies show these foods typically have more fat, sugar, cholesterol, sodium and calories than home-cooked meals. However, locally prepared-and-delivered food alternatives in Austin, from services such as ChefATX, Lucky Lime and Snap Kitchen promise healthier options. Option three is to get on the meal-delivery-kit bandwagon. Everything needed is delivered right to your doorstep, but you can still prepare the food yourself and eat a “home-cooked meal.” While costs average between $10 to $13 dollars a plate, according to Fortune, this doesn’t include delivery fees, membership or surcharges such as desserts or special drinks. Most dietary options are available, and reports indicate that consumers rate the ingredients as high quality, making meal-delivery kits a far healthier choice than Photography of Farmhouse Delivery by Casey Woods, styling by Rachel Johnson and Lisa Tridle

ordering takeout. However, prep times can range from 30 to 90 minutes—cutting into the convenience. Packagedfacts.com reports that nearly 20 percent of American adults use meal-delivery kits, and 97 percent stay with the company they first signed up with—indicating high satisfaction with the service. And not all meal-kit services are national; Austin-based Farmhouse Delivery’s Supper Club meal kits delivers packages containing recipes with fresh, seasonal and local produce and proteins to the Austin, Houston and Dallas markets. While meal plans such as Blue Apron and HelloFresh originally targeted dual-income professionals, there are now meal plans marketed to working parents of young children. After all, who has less time on their hands, but more motivation to eat healthfully? Newcomers such as Kidstir, Scrumpt Fresh and Kidfresh offer parents healthy, kid-friendly dinners, fresh-made lunches and, in the case of Kidfresh, frozen meals. And Freshly, a 2015 startup, delivers microwave-ready, healthy meals to professionals with or without kids who are too busy to do anything more than wait three minutes. Of course, among the many pluses of meal-delivery kits, one major concern is the oodles of plastic, dry ice, foam and cardboard it takes to ship all the food. Though most of it’s recyclable, it’s up to the consumer to take care of this.

THE BUSINESS-OWNER EXPERIENCE

Farmhouse Delivery, Snap Kitchen and Instacart

The changing food economy is a mixed-bag for restaurant owners, too. For all but high-end restaurants, foot traffic is down, EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

according to marketing research firm NPD Group. But opportuni-

now gauge preparation and delivery times, as well as determine

ties abound for those restaurants willing to participate with the

which menu items are the most popular. Gathering this valuable

aforementioned independent delivery services, even though this

information is just one of the ways restaurants and delivery apps

generally means forking over between 12 and 30 percent of the

can help each other. According to Amy’s Ice Creams’ operations

take. Although delivery only accounts for 2 percent of current

manager, Val Gonzales, the feedback obtained from Restaurant

restaurant profits, this number is projected to grow 15 times faster

Manager has allowed them to more accurately set the delivery ra-

than the rest of the restaurant business through 2020. According

dius, therefore shortening the time frame from product creation

to estimates, online delivery is a $210 billion untapped market,

to when the customer enjoys their ice cream, thus better mirror-

which is currently doing only $30 billion worth of business. This

ing the in-store experience.

could be a field day for savvy restaurant owners who participate with tech apps to serve up their food.

A tech startup can be the parent company of a delivery service, such as Uber with UberEATS. Other delivery services, such as

Yet, it can also be a quandary. A priority for most restaurants

Instacart, Blue Apron or FreshDirect, are powered by technology

is attractively plating their food—something in-house diners ex-

apps that are privately owned (though some are public) and val-

pect and servers deliver. Restaurants still want to ensure quality

ued in the billions, or even tens of billions of dollars. The leader

of presentation and freshness for home delivery, but control is

of the online menu and delivery industry is Grubhub, which went

lost as soon as the food leaves the establishment. “Often, food

public in 2014. It has nearly 9 million active users, and anticipates

quality and order accuracy can be compromised,” says Amanda

growth by 2 million new users each year.

Kuda, director of marketing for Austin’s high-traffic Kerbey Lane

In March 2017, Blue Apron made a bold move by acquiring BN

Cafe. This is why some restaurants choose to work with only one

Ranch, one of its meat suppliers. BN Ranch, a sustainable produc-

specific delivery service to get orders to their customers.

er of free-range beef, lamb and turkey, was originally founded by

Also, different types of foods offer unique challenges for deliv-

Bill Niman, who has now joined Blue Apron as president. With

ery, such as highly perishable ice cream. Austin’s popular Amy’s

Blue Apron’s initial public offering (IPO) in June 2017, and its un-

Ice Creams has been using the UberEATS service to deliver from

anticipated 26-percent price-per-share decline, those in the in-

most of their local locations, as well as their San Antonio and

dustry are taking a hard look at what will make meal-kit delivery

Houston shops. The app’s diagnostic site, Restaurant Manager,

profitable. Analysts say the only way to be profitable is to expand

allows them to track both sales and customer reviews. They can

on a very large scale because operating costs are so high.

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

And, in early November 2017, German-based competitor

benefits, and some states have formed workers’ guilds where

HelloFresh executed their own IPO in Europe, two years after

drivers are allowed to buy roadside assistance. One point seems

they cancelled their first IPO. The company, which delivers meal

clear: As revenue rises for those at the top, working conditions

kits in 10 countries, has a goal to break even by January 2019, ac-

shouldn’t be so adverse for those at the bottom, especially when

cording to Reuters.

they are integral to the system.

Of course, a competitor for all these services is prepared/delivered foods from local (and not-so-local) supermarkets. Indeed,

WHERE WE GO FROM HERE

Amazon’s recent acquisition of Whole Foods Market has posi-

Many Americans play a part in the new tech-to-table food

tioned the online behemoth to become what may be the largest

system, whether it’s as a food producer, business owner, deliv-

home-delivery-food service in the United States.

ery person or consumer. If technology has allowed Americans to free up their time and perhaps even eat more healthfully, have

THE WORKER EXPERIENCE

we simply changed with the times? Or is the tech-to-table move-

A “cog in a wheel” refers to someone who is necessary but of

ment taking us farther afield from the movement that originally

smaller importance within a larger operation. Delivery drivers are

brought us back into the kitchen? Have we lost sight of the orig-

the cogs that keep all of these services running. Most drivers are

inal goal of choosing our own food by feel, smell and sight, then

self-employed, enjoying what some have deemed “The Gig Econ-

taking it home and cooking it? Are we drifting off course and sim-

omy”—a nod to the world of musicians where workers retain au-

ply reverting back to our old couch-potato, Americanized ways

tonomy and set their own hours. The upside for the employer is

again? Whatever the answer, it’s clear that the home-delivery and

that they pay low wages and don’t provide benefits, but this leaves

prepared-foods market is huge, rife with potential and rapidly ex-

workers without basic protections, such as unemployment bene-

panding. With a glut of meal-delivery companies offering a wide

fits, sick days or workers’ compensation. According to Business In-

range of plans and options, it’s still a mystery as to which of them

sider, companies claim that drivers can earn as much as $100,000

will succeed in this turbulent market. Analysts say the key will be

a year, but many drivers say they’re making below minimum wage

to focus on existing customer retention, as opposed to reliance

after tolls, gas, phone data charges and business expenses.

on the more costly new-customer acquisition. And it remains to

They’re fighting back in court, too. Many cities have recently passed labor laws intended to raise wages and mandate worker

be seen which facet of the new food economy will end up being successful, and which might end up being just a flash in the pan.

New menu items added seasonally (Pictured: Spicy Shrimp Enchiladas)

kerbeylanecafe.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

cooking FRESH

NAVIGATING THE TOFUSION BY M I C H E L E J AC O BSO N • P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T

h, tofu—ridiculed by some, loved by others, scoffed at by

The word tofu literally means “curdled or fermented bean.” As a

many and scarfed down by hungry vegans and vegetari-

frame of reference, the bean we are starting with is the soybean,

ans, worldwide. It’s viewed both as a wholesome choice

otherwise known as edamame. In the first American mention of

and an unappetizing foodstuff. Worse, many Americans eschew it

tofu, Benjamin Franklin compared it to Chinese cheese because

as unhealthy. Why the dissension when tofu has been consumed

of the similarity in process. Though the first American tofu com-

for more than 2,000 years?

pany originated in San Francisco in 1878, it was not a well-known

Also known as bean curd, tofu is made by simply coagulating soy milk and pressing the resulting curds into soft white blocks.

food in this country until the vegetarian movement began to grow in the mid-20th century.

Around the world, more people than before are eating a plantbased diet, both for health and ethical reasons. Indeed, the U.S.

traditional Japanese noodle that combines tofu with konnyaku (Asian yam) flour.

saw a 600-percent rise in vegans from 2014 to 2017. Tofu is an

Tofu is like a blank palette—adapting well to virtually any

excellent source of protein, iron and calcium—making it a perfect

spicy, sweet or savory seasoning or marinade, and absorbing the

food for vegans and omnivores, alike. It’s naturally gluten- and

flavors beautifully. And its many textural varieties allow for a

cholesterol-free, and a low-calorie, low-fat food, especially when

wide range of cooking methods. Any way you like, jump right in,

compared to other protein sources. In fact, the FDA advises that

give tofu a go and help dispel the tofusion!

25 grams of soy protein a day—as part of a diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol—may reduce the risk of heart disease. Despite all this, people are still confused about whether or not tofu is healthy to eat. Why all the tofusion? First, it’s important to understand and differentiate between tofu and highly processed soy foods and fillers. Consider the difference between organic cheese made from the milk of grassfed cows and a slice of processed American cheese. Tofu is made from only three ingredients: soybeans, water and a coagulant such as

BURRITOS WITH SPICY SCRAMBLED TOFU AND VEGGIES Serves 2 The secret to a tasty tofu scramble is the spices. Make them vibrant to add color and flavor and make them moist so they disperse. Add whatever veggies tempt you!

gypsum (a dietary source of calcium that’s also used in brewing beer) or nigari (seawater). Also, it matters how your soybeans are grown. Ninety-four percent of the soybeans grown in the U.S. are now genetically engineered. According to the Non-GMO Project, a growing body of evidence connects GMOs with health problems and environmental damage. Also, because 83 percent of the worldwide soy crop is also GMO, be cautious when buying non-American soy, too. While some packages say they are organic or GMO-free, very few have a certification you can trust. Yet, even if we’re positive our tofu is pure and certified nonGMO, some news reports warn us that tofu still isn’t safe to eat. For example, cancer patients and survivors have long been confused about eating tofu, and soy in general. Soy proteins are high in phytoestrogens called isoflavones, plant-based nutrients that exert a weak, estrogen-like effect on the body. Contrary to what many believe, these have actually been shown to have health-promoting properties, according to the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and, in fact, protect against certain types of cancer. Studies show that women who regularly eat soy tend to be healthier than those who don’t. And overall evidence suggests that one to two servings of soy per day is safe. It’s important to note that recommendations refer to whole-food sources of soy only, and not supplements, protein or protein powder. As always, if you have concerns, defer to your physician for dietary recom-

For the spice mix: ½ t. garlic powder ½ t. cumin powder ¼ t. chili powder ½ t. turmeric 1 t. nutritional yeast ¾ t. salt Freshly ground pepper, to taste 3 T. water (more if necessary) Combine the spice mix into a thin sauce and set aside. For the burritos: 2 T. olive oil 1 small onion, diced ½ hot pepper, small dice 2 c. spinach, kale or other leafy green, sliced into ribbons Salt and pepper, to taste 8 oz. non-GMO extra-firm tofu, pressed dry Prepared spice sauce 2 medium potatoes, diced and roasted 2 burrito-size flour tortillas Shredded cheese (optional) 2 scallions, thinly sliced (optional) Chopped cilantro (optional) Hot sauce, for serving

mendations. While there’s a good selection of tofu in most grocery stores, the profusion of choices at an Asian supermarket is quite overwhelming. Not only will you find the usual silken, soft, firm and extra-firm varieties, but there are also tofu skins and black tofu made from black soybeans; fermented, preserved and pickled tofu soaked in saltwater, wine vinegar, chiles or miso paste; and seasoned, smoked and pressed tofu. There are all different consistencies for a variety of dishes. You can also find an abundance of frozen tofu, Chou dofu—a “stinky” Taiwanese tofu that is fermented in vegetable matter and fish brine, and tofu shirataki—a

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion and pepper and sauté until soft. Add the greens and sauté until wilted. Season with salt and pepper. Move the veggies to the side of the pan and add the tofu to the other—breaking it into crumbles. Pour the spice sauce over the tofu—incorporating it fully until the tofu turns yellow. Sauté for 5 minutes then add the potatoes to the pan. While the mixture is heating through, warm the flour tortillas separately over a low burner and keep warm in a kitchen towel. Fill each tortilla with some tofu mixture, top with cheese, scallions and cilantro if using, roll up and serve with hot sauce on the side. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

CURRY RAMEN BOWLS WITH TOFU AND VEGGIES Adapted from littlespicejar.com Serves 4 This recipe i’s both a challenging and beautiful recipe for a filling, one-bowl meal.

For the curry ramen broth: 1 T. peanut oil 1 shallot, minced 3 T. red curry paste ¼ c. white miso paste 1 T. garlic chili sauce (sambal oelek) 2 T. minced garlic 1 T. grated ginger 2 T. brown sugar 1 T. toasted sesame oil ¼ c. water 4–5 c. vegetable broth (low-sodium preferred) 8 oz. coconut milk (less, if desired) 5 oz. fresh shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, sliced Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté until translucent—approximately 2 minutes. Add the next 8 ingredients and allow the paste to cook for approximately 5 minutes—stirring often. Remove 2 tablespoons of the paste and set aside. Add the vegetable broth, coconut milk and mushrooms to the pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Turn down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.

For the bowls: 14 oz. non-GMO extra-firm tofu 1 T. non-GMO cornstarch Pinch salt 1 T. peanut oil Reserved curry paste 8 oz. ramen noodles, cooked according to package directions 4 baby bok choy, cleaned, cut in half lengthwise Handful of enoki mushrooms, cleaned, dried 4 soft-boiled eggs, peeled, halved lengthwise Chopped cilantro, for garnish Chopped scallions, for garnish Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish Toasted sesame oil, for garnish Press the tofu in a clean towel to remove excess water, then dice into small cubes. Place the cubes in a zip-top bag with the cornstarch and salt. Zip the bag and shake until the tofu is coated. Heat the oil in a skillet on medium high, add the tofu cubes and cook for approximately 5 minutes, until they turn light brown. Add the reserved curry paste, stir to coat, cook for 2 more minutes then set aside. Heat a large pot of water to a gentle simmer, add the bok choy, parboil for 30 to 60 seconds, then drain. Divide the prepared ramen noodles between 4 bowls. Place 2 bok choy halves in each bowl then ladle in the hot broth. Place the tofu cubes, enoki mushrooms and 2 egg halves in sections on the top of each bowl. Garnish lightly with the chopped cilantro, scallions, sesame seeds and a splash of sesame oil. 34

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

LEMON TOFU “CHEESECAKE” Makes 8 servings This pie works great with a store-bought graham cracker-crumb crust. For a vegan option, use 2 cups ground walnuts and ¹/8 cup maple syrup (I used Runamok brand ginger root-infused maple syrup). Mix the nuts and maple syrup together, adding a bit more syrup if necessary. Firmly press into a greased pie plate, then refrigerate while assembling the filling. For the filling: 2 12-oz. packages non-GMO silken tofu, drained Scant ½ c. white sugar Scant ½ c. brown sugar 1½ T. almond butter ½ t. salt Zest of a large lemon ½ t. vanilla extract 1½ T. non-GMO cornstarch combined with 2 T. fresh-squeezed lemon juice Whipped topping (dairy or coconut) for garnish (optional) Heat the oven to 350°. Combine all filling ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Pour into the crust and bake for 30 minutes, until set. Cool on the counter, then refrigerate until cold. Garnish with a lemon twist.

TOFU SHIRATAKI PAD THAI Adapted from thepickledplum.com Serves 2 This pad Thai is a great option for carb-free enthusiasts. 1 8-oz. package non-GMO tofu shirataki noodles, fettuccine style 2 T. fresh lemon juice ½ T. fish sauce ½ T. Sriracha sauce ½ T. rice vinegar 1 T. peanut oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 4 large shrimp, peeled and cleaned 1 egg, whisked 1 c. bean sprouts 2 scallions, sliced, divided 2 T. unsalted peanuts, chopped 2 T. cilantro, chopped 2 lime wedges, for garnish Drain the shirataki and rinse under cold water for 30 seconds. Allow the noodles to dry on paper towels. Make the sauce by mixing together the lemon juice, fish sauce, Sriracha and rice vinegar and set aside. Heat a large pan, add the oil and sauté the garlic for 1 minute. Add the shrimp and fry for 2 minutes. Add the egg and quickly scramble. Add the shirataki noodles and stir well. Stir in the sauce mixture and cook for 3 minutes. Add the sprouts and half of the scallions and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to serving dishes and top with the remaining scallions, peanuts and cilantro. Garnish with lime wedges.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

GUY FORSYTH BY DA N H A R D I C K • P H OTO G RA P H Y M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

f you’re ever in South Austin and forget the street address

And not only have his years on the road expanded his tastes,

of your musician friend, pick the house with the beat-up van

they’ve also increased his enjoyment of food overall. “I like a lot

in the driveway. There’s a fairly solid chance that the person

of different options,” he says. “I wouldn’t call myself a great cook.

who answers the door will be a musician, although maybe not

I tend to improvise a lot in the kitchen…which sometimes gets

of the caliber of Guy Forsyth. As a respected singer-songwrit-

me in trouble. But I generally like to combine good, fresh, quality

er, bluesman and co-founder of the legendary, raucous and of-

elements.” His favorite entrée at the moment is salmon prepared

ten-bawdy blues crew Asylum Street Spankers, Forsyth forged

any number of ways, but currently he’s enamored with a gin-

an impressive national and international career (as well as an

ger-brown sugar-soy glaze he created, which involves a coating of

equally impressive base of doe-eyed fans) since his arrival in

minced garlic. He also loves to make steak—ideally grassfed rib-

Austin in the early ’90s.

eye on the grill—and lately he’s been experimenting with roasting

Despite the size of the van in his driveway, though, Forsyth

vegetables.

travels light these days—usually as part of a road-tested trio that

Today in his kitchen, however, the vegetables are fresh, un-

includes bandmates Jeff Botta and Nina Singh. One of the tires

fussy and from his childhood. He dices up some red onion. “You

on the band van is in desperate need of air, but Forsyth doesn’t

might want to make sure that you share this salad with your date

seem concerned. After 300,000-plus miles, the van is no longer

because the flavors are intense and tend to linger,” he says with a

operational and he plans to donate it to radio station KUT. Most-

laugh, as though any date of his would have turned away from a

ly, he just hauls his heartthrob self, his guitar and a bandolier of

little onion breath. He notes that this is a salad whose job it is to

harmonicas to gigs. After many years on the road, he’s learned it’s

bring out the “sassy” in cauliflower—not an easy task, but the red

best to avoid unnecessary complications.

onions, olives and blue cheese present a muscle-y tag team.

He’s also learned that eating on the road can take its toll on

“Now for the secret ingredient!” Forsyth exclaims as he opens

your health and psyche. Road food can literally break your heart,

the refrigerator. “Love?” I ask. “No!” he responds. “Italian dress-

so when he’s home, Forsyth tries to eat healthy. He credits his

ing!” Bottled. Italian. Dressing. Wish-Bone brand, to be exact. No-

mother for breaking him into eating well at an early age. “It’s re-

body saw that coming. He begins to pour a generous amount over

ally tough to get kids to eat vegetables, so my mom would try

the salad, drenching it, really. “You can eat it now, but it’s best to

different ways to get us to eat them,” he says. “Cauliflower salad

let it sit overnight so the flavors have a chance to mix,” he says. I

is the first way my mother actually succeeded in getting me to eat

reflexively glance down at an invisible wristwatch. “Fortunately,”

vegetables, so I have a soft spot for it.”

he says, “I made some in advance so you can get the full mix of

In his years as a touring musician, Forsyth’s had plenty of op-

flavors.” He spoons some in a bowl. “Bon appétit!”

portunities to expand his palate beyond the relatively bland Mid-

Surprisingly, the Italian dressing mixes well with the blue

western cuisine of his boyhood days in suburban Kansas City. Eat-

cheese and red onion, and that, combined with the saltiness of

ing asparagus in Belgium, for example, turned out to be a “eureka”

the olives, makes me almost forget I’m eating raw cauliflower,

moment. “I’d tried asparagus several times in the States,” he says,

which, even for the most worldly gastronome, would be a bit of a

“but after having it in Belgium, I was angry that I’d been lied to.

slog. I guess that’s some Midwestern-mom magic. I am eating my

That was what asparagus was supposed to taste like!”

vegetables.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

THE LEANING PEAR H ill Country -inspired C uisine

GUY FORSYTH’S “STILL GONNA GET KISSED” FRESH CAULIFLOWER SALAD Serves 4

Unique. Well Crafted. Delicious.

en ∙ 258 E. Main St. g, Texas 78624 ∙ info@littlechef.com 97.4937

111 river road, Wimberley, texas 512-847-pear | leaningpear.Com

Combine everything in a large bowl and mix well until all ingredients are well coated with the dressing. (Forsyth’s pro tip: Combine all the ingredients in a large zip-top bag and shake the mixture instead of mixing with a spoon.) Refrigerate the salad overnight before serving. Forsyth suggests pairing it with your favorite boxed wine.

Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 info@littlechef.com www.littlechef.com

JAN/FEB 2018

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets ½ large red onion, diced 4 oz. chopped green olives 3 oz. blue cheese crumbles 1 c. Italian dressing

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Fresh

Find a market near you!

sponsored by

LAKELINE

Farmers Market find it at

Guide

EdibleAustin.com

Weddings, Receptions, Gatherings

Concerts, Parties, Events

401 Sabine Street // info@palmdoor.com // 512.391.1994

508 E. Sixth Street // info@palmdoor.com // 512.386.1295 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

FIRST BITES BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

few months ago, our farmer neighbor told us how her grandmother would give her babies a picked-clean chicken bone to help with teething; I laughed, thinking how odd

and even dangerous that seemed for our then 3-month-old entering the throes of sore gums. Our dog doesn’t even get bones. Surprisingly, our baby’s first solid-food event included a giant, shorn beef rib bone from a smoked-meat vendor at the farmers market. I not only got over the shock of offering a baby a giant inedible object, but also wholeheartedly changed my tune after doing some research into baby-led weaning (BLW). The BLW movement is somewhat of a misnomer. It’s assumed that the baby is weaning from breastmilk or formula, but really the focus is on weaning onto solid foods while babies continue to nurse or receive a bottle on demand. The baby is trusted to decide when to increase solid feedings and decrease breastmilk or bottle feedings, which typically happens later in their first year. I went to a workshop offered on the subject to find myself happily enlightened about this easy approach without many rules other than the food being offered needs to be larger than an adult pinky finger. This way of feeding babies is not as new as the recently coined name and body of writing around it. BLW is really an age-old practice that encourages self-feeding solid finger foods instead of pureed foods by spoon (which rose to fashion when doctors suggested starting solids around 4 months old, instead of the current recommendation of 6 months old or later). We started solids for our daughter around six-and-a-half months. My single-most important qualification for making the

mess instead of focusing on a specific amount of food ending up

leap was the milestone where my baby could sit up on her own

in her mouth.

without a special chair or any other support. Physiologically, it

Early on, we only aimed for one meal with solids a day, if at

makes sense that our digestive system is probably ready once our

all, but as we caught our groove and followed our baby’s lead, we

bodies can sit unassisted.

began to find a few opportunities throughout the day to include

Many of my friends reported that starting solids was a con-

her at meals or snack time and let her try new things. We use

fusing time because babies might not know what to do with solid

BLW as a guide and enjoy seeking out nutrients and identifying

foods. The tongue thrust reflux can still be in place and one might

shapes and textures that will be most successful for little hands

find more food everywhere but in the tummy. Our experience was

and blossoming motor skills.

one of pure enthusiasm and joy. Our daughter knew precisely

There are about as many opinions on what baby’s first solid

what to do with food because we tried to always eat with her and

foods should be as there are opinions on how and where babies

lead by example. We also allowed her to just have fun and make a

should sleep. Babies need protein, iron and fat—nutrients found

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

in breastmilk—so a diet of soft fruits and veggies is a nice addition and offers vitamins, but it doesn’t cover all the bases for the rapid development taking place in a baby’s body. Red meat, liver, legumes, fish and cooked egg yolks are all great foods to incorporate early on. Animal bones leftover after the family meal are an excellent source of iron, minerals and good fats, because babies will gum and suck on them to extract nutrients. (Looks like our

GROCERY • ESPRESSO • DELI • WINE & BEER TO STAY OR GO • LUNCH SPECIALS • GRAB & GO

farmer friend’s California grandma knew what was up!) Good fats and oils, such as butter from grassfed cows and coconut oil, are also important additions to foods prepared for babies. Our baby’s favorite first foods were local duck confit and liver pâté, sourdough pancakes, crust from sourdough and other crusty

3RD & LAVACA • 4TH & NUECES 6TH & CONGRESS • 3RD & BRAZOS

51 RAINEY STREET WWW.ROYALBLUEGROCERY.COM

breads, whole milk yogurt, mashed avocado, sprouted oatmeal with mashed blueberries and coconut oil, meatballs, roasted beets and banana quartered lengthwise and rolled in shredded dried coco-

Our Second

nut for easy gripping. At any meal, I can usually find something to hand over to my daughter, and she can regulate how much and how

Location Now Open

quickly to eat. It is such a joy to watch her discover a love for eating.

Downtown!

BABY MEATBALLS FOR A 6-MONTH-OLD OR OLDER Makes 12–14 meatballs 1 lb. ground beef or other ground meat ½ white or yellow onion, finely chopped 1 apple or pear, grated

4220 Duval St. | New! 111 Congress Ave.

Shop the cheese case or order a board today

Combine all the ingredients and form meatballs approximately the size of a golf ball. Cook at 400° for 20 minutes. Allow to cool. Give your baby a whole meatball and allow her to suck and gum off little bits. These freeze well for easy meals on the go. For variations on this flexible recipe, try mashing a roasted beet or cooked carrot in place of the apple or pear, or add an egg yolk to the mixture.

SWEET POTATO SQUASH CAKES FOR A 6-MONTH-OLD OR OLDER Makes 10 cakes ¾ c. roasted sweet potato, cooled ¼ c. roasted butternut or winter squash, cooled 1 T. coconut oil, warmed to liquid and brought to room temperature 2 t. whole-milk plain yogurt 1 c. rolled oats Shredded dried coconut, to coat cakes Combine the sweet potato, squash, coconut oil and yogurt and mix into a smooth paste. Mix the oats into the paste so the consistency is the same throughout. If desired, cover and let the mixture sit in the refrigerator overnight, which allows the yogurt to help make the oats more digestible. When ready to form the cakes, shake a thin layer of coconut into a shallow bowl or onto a plate. Scoop ping pong ball-sized portions of the mixture, roll in your hands to form a ball, then roll in the coconut. Gently smash the balls to form fat cakes and add more coconut to completely cover and make these easy for small hands to pick up. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

department of organic YOUTH

MASTERING VEGAN BAKING BY K AT D U E N D E

“W

HAT?” I had just told

texture of the pastry—it shrinks the air

my friend that I was

pockets, thus making the pastry heavier

vegan and she freaked

and not quite as enjoyable. When bak-

out! That was when I knew that being

ing with coconut oil, make sure it’s com-

vegan wasn’t going to be easy. “WHAT?

pletely melted or it can cause clumps in

NO MEAT? NO DESSERT? NO MILK?

the dough and affect the finished pastry.

NO ANYTHING? WHAT THE HECK

And when you make vegan scones, it’s

ARE YOU GOING TO EAT?” she asked.

different from the regular dough be-

“Tofu…lots of tofu,” was my very witty

cause it has to be moister to ensure the

response. Honestly, she was right. The

scones don’t come out dry, so it’s help-

first week of being vegan was HARD,

ful to increase the amount of coconut

but slowly I started to adjust. By week

oil. I really enjoy making the scones

three, I was cooking vegan meals for my

so I’ve included the recipe. Please feel

family and our guests. It was spectacu-

free to modify to your own standards;

lar, if I do say so myself.

it works a lot of different ways. I hope

I had always admired vegans and their morals so that was a lot of the

y’all try out vegan baking—even if it’s just for fun!

reason I became vegan. Another reason was that the companies that raise aniespecially the cow farms, so I decided I

VEGAN LEMON BLUEBERRY SCONES

had had enough! Then I became vegan.

Makes about 8–10

mals to be slaughtered are just awful,

After that, things were basically normal again, but I was looking for a challenge…something I hadn’t done yet. Vegan baking! At first I tried baking without a recipe and failed miserably. But I kept trying and trying and trying, until I was done with failing. I finally looked up a recipe for vegan chocolate-chip cookies. The next day, I heated the oven and baked some cookies. And guess what? They were incredible. My all-time favorite vegan recipe, though, is for these amazing scones that if you didn’t already know were vegan, you would never guess. Being vegan gives me a sense of fulfillment that I don’t think I previously had, and baking as a vegan is actually really fun, even though it’s a little bit harder. It still has the fun of regular baking, plus some excitement that comes from small discoveries. For example, when baking things that call for butter, I have found that using coconut oil as a substitute works best—plus it gives the baked good a hint of coconut flavor. In most recipes, if it calls for coconut milk, it’s better to use almond milk, just in a smaller portion; the density of the coconut milk can sometimes affect the 42

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

2 c. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 T. baking powder 2 t. sugar 1 t. salt ¼ c. coconut oil (melted)

1 c. fresh blueberries 1 T. lemon zest 1 c. unsweetened, full-fat coconut milk or ¾ c. almond milk T urbinado sugar, to taste (optional)

Heat the oven to 400°. Grab a bowl and put the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and coconut oil in the bowl. Mix until the oil is completely stirred in. Add the blueberries and lemon zest to the bowl and stir. Add the coconut milk or almond milk and mix with the other ingredients until a soft dough is formed. (Make sure it’s not too wet! It has to be slightly drier than biscuit dough to make good scones.) Put the dough on a lightly floured baking pan and pat it out to form a disc, then refrigerate for 15 minutes. After the dough has chilled, cut the disc into however many wedges you’d like. Separate the wedges on the baking sheet. Grab the turbinado sugar and put a lot of that stuff all over the scones. Bake until they’re crunchy on the outside (I bake them for about 27 minutes). Serve them whenever you want—they’re good warm and they’re good cold!

THE SEASON FOR TRADITION

er H l ca o

SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER

BY A M Y G A L LO

ike many others, I wasn’t born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could. I grew up in New York state, and these colder days

remind me of the treks my family and I would take to yet another

201

out-of-the-way Italian grocer—tracking down ingredients for our Sicilian holiday traditions. We shopped for live octopus and vials of cuttlefish ink for Festa dei Sette Pesci (Feast of the Seven Fishes), fennel with oranges for New Year’s Day and stuffed artichokes for Easter. Despite the abundance of Italians in the northeastern U.S., the climate certainly doesn’t reflect that of the craggy Sicilian coastline, so finding some of these products in the bleak gray of winter wasn’t easy. Celebrating our cultural heritage at the dinner table is common for many Americans, but the timing can seem a little off when it comes to the seasonality of ingredients. It wasn’t until I moved to Austin eight years ago that I realized how similar our growing season is to the Mediterranean. Suddenly, my family’s food traditions felt more in tune with the environment around me. In spring we have access to long tender leeks, perfect for

Vote Now! Celebrate your community and vote for your food heroes now!

caramelizing for a simple frittata. We also see the first delicate strawberries of the year, and root veggies that survived the winter freezes and are at their sweetest. With warmer weather comes peach season and peach granita, peaches soaked in wine or grilled alongside a pork

Visit edibleaustin.com/hero to vote for the following categories.

roast. I call the middle of summer “caponata season” after a tangy eggplant and tomato dish my grandma is famous for. When fall rolls around, I’m thankful that I took the time to pickle my own peppers so that I can finish pans of sautéed greens with something bright and spicy. Maybe you’re not Italian, but we should all be proud of the local food system Central Texans have built. As I find myself following the rhythms of my family and heritage, I’m grateful for the bounty of seasonal food in Texas. I am especially thankful for the realization that ripe oranges and crisp fennel are both in season here in January. Try this recipe paired with a simple lentil soup and hot rosemary focaccia just out of the oven.

CRISP FENNEL AND ORANGE SALAD Serves 4–5 3 navel oranges 1 large fennel bulb, fronds reserved

Handful of sunflower sprouts 2 T. olive oil Sea salt, to taste

Peel the oranges with a knife—careful to remove all of the pith. Slice each orange into rounds along the equator and remove any seeds that pop out. Remove the fennel stalks and cut the remaining bulb into thin slices, keeping all the rings intact. Layer the orange slices and fennel slices around a plate, alternating slices. Put a handful of sprouts in the center of the plate, drizzle with olive oil and top with a flaky sea salt. Garnish with chopped fennel fronds and enjoy!

Chef / Restaurant Food Shop Farm / Farmer Food Artisan Beverage Artisan Non-profit Organization Voting Deadline is February 15, 2018 This year’s winners will be announced in our May/June 2018 Issue

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

JAN/FEB 2018

edible austin MARKETPLACE f r ie n d ly f u n f e s t i ve

German Bistro Open daily 4-11pm

BOARDS | GIFT BOXES | CUSTOM INSTALLATIONS jams, pickles, mustards + crackers made by hand

316 E. Austin St. Fredericksburg 830-307-3336 ottosfbg.com

DELIVERED RIGHT TO YOUR DOOR

organic produce • pastured meats • live music • prepared foods • local artisans Orders: www.spreadandco.com // @spreadandco

YOUR LOCAL WINERY

featuring artisan, hand-crafted wines from the best of Texas and California vinyards.

Every Saturday 9 to 1 in the back parking lot of Barton Creek Square Mall overlooking the city.

Permaculture

Food Forest Design & Consulting

by Bob Hall

Free-range venison, antelope, and wild boar meat Diamond H Ranch Quail Dorper Lamb

512-815-0693 • slktafarms.com

www.brokenarrowranch.com

2000 W indy T errace , B ldg 2-B, c edar P ark 512.551.1189

WWW . BenToakWinery . com

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Order Online

THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. 111 Congress Ave. antonellischeese.com

Blue Top Brand

Bending Branch Winery Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thursday through Sunday. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Craft Pride

We are a company of food lovers, family & friends from Austin. We are inspired by true intentions of the heart and we have a dream to make lives happier with creamy hot sauce. 615 Spanish Oak Trl., Dripping Springs bluetopbrand.com

A Texas-only craft beer bar serving up the highest quality beer. With 54 taps and a knowledgeable staff, it’s an inviting space for dedicated beer lovers and casual drinkers alike. 512-428-5571 61 Rainey St. craftprideaustin.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams

Republic Whiskey

Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 1135 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd., Ste. 200 512-502-5949 1905 Aldrich St., Ste. 150 ilikelick.com

Pasta & Co. Austin’s only fresh pasta manufacturer serving the greater Austin area’s retail and wholesale pasta needs since 1983. 512-453-0633 3502 Kerbey Ln. austinpasta.com

BEVERAGES AquaBrew Brewery & Beer Garden Craft beer, culinary delights, local music and community all meet here. Come get a taste of what we’re all about. 512-353-2739 150 S. LBJ Dr., San Marcos aqua-brew.com

Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall 307 E. Main St., Fredericksburg beckervineyards.com

Republic Whiskey has notes of rich oak and vanilla bean fading into dark cherry, with a bold finish like a West Texas sunset. Barreled and bottled in Austin, Texas at Texacello LLC. 512-291-7797 2905 San Gabriel St., Ste. 309 republictxwhiskey.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Coffee Traders East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Texas Keeper Ciders Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

Thirsty Planet Brewing Co. Thirsty Planet Brewing Company is a craft brewery with a new tasting room opening on South Congress. Now available in twelve packs! Brewed with passion, committed to the planet. 512-579-0679 8201 S. Congress Ave. thirstyplanet.beer

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

EVENTS Palm Door Our facilities boast a total square footage of 7255 versatile indoor and outdoor space available for private events for groups up to 1000. Each section can be customized to suit the needs of creative and functional events. 512-386-1295 508 E. 6th St. 512-391-1994 401 Sabine St. palmdoor.com

The Long Center for the Performing Arts The Long Center presents Michael Pollan: “One Writer’s Trip – From the Garden to the Plate and the Beyond,” on Friday, February 2 in Dell Hall. 512-474-5664 701 W. Riverside Dr. thelongcenter.org

Whim Hospitality The Whim Hospitality family of services includes catering, event and tent rentals and florals. Separately, or as a package of services, we help make your next event memorable. 512-858-9446 2001 W. Hwy. 290, Ste. 107 Dripping Springs whimhospitality.com

FARMS 44 Farms Founded and Family-owned since 1909 in Cameron, 44 Farms is the U.S. premier producer of ethically raised Angus beef. Our ranchers produce beef with no added hormones, antibiotics or artificial ingredients. 254-697-4401 963 PR 44, Cameron 1509 S. Hwy 36, Cameron 44farms.com

GROCERS Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061 51 Rainey St. 512-524-0740 1645 E. 6th St. royalbluegrocery.com

Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon Dr. 512-690-2605 5001 183 Toll Rd., Bldg. A, Ste. 100 wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND WELLNESS Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

FRESH 2018

DIGITAL EDIBLE

FIGHT HUNGER TODAY

JOIN US ONLINE FOR MORE!

SOUPER BOWL OF CARING Help empower local youth and unite our community to help those in need!

January 5 - February 4, 2018 Austin area H-E-B and Randalls Stores It’s easy to donate! Look for pre-packaged bags filled with non-perishable food items for less than $10 or make a donation for $1, $3, or $5 at the register. Learn more at souperbowl.org

AMPLIFY AUSTIN

Mark your calendar for the annual city-wide day of giving! March 1-2, 2018 Schedule your gift at amplifyatx.org/foodbank

f you love the stories and recipes included in our print issue, you should visit our website for even more Edible goodness! We keep the site updated with features from our last decade of issues, along with tons of other seasonal goodies you can only find online. Our event calendar is brimming with local goings-on, from exclusive meals at our favorite restaurants to trivia nights at the local brewpub. If you’re looking for a farmers market to support local as you shop, check out our Farmers Market Guide for a list of vendors all around Central Texas. Plus, we have countless seasonal recipes to help you cook with ingredients grown from local farmers. Check out all the special features our site has available: • Event calendar • Over 1,000 seasonal recipes • Farmers market guide • Locally sourcing restaurant guide • What’s in season • Exclusive online content • Online store with shirts, market bags and

There are many ways to help your neighbors in need all year long! Find more ways to get involved at centraltexasfoodbank.org 48

JAN/FEB 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

home delivery • Newsletter sign-up with access to discounts and giveaways • and even more farm animal photos!

VISIT US AT EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Wiseman Family Practice Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd., Ste. 100 300 Medical Arts St. 3010 Bee Cave Rd., Ste. 200 wisemanfamilypractice.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

NONPROFIT Central Texas Food Bank The Central Texas Food Bank is on the front line of hunger relief in a 21-county area, helping nearly 46,000 Central Texans each week access nutritious food when they need it the most. 512-282-2111 6500 Metropolis Dr. centraltexasfoodbank.org

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Label Company Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Merchant Cafe Inc. Harbortouch is a leading national supplier of point of sale (POS) systems, credit card processing equipment and a full range of merchant services. 866-973-9988 9901 Brodie Ln., Ste. 160, #712 harbortouchgeorgetown.com

REAL ESTATE Barbara Van Dyke — Kuper Sotheby’s Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty Realtor. Helping buyers and sellers move to the next chapter of their lives. 512-431-2552 4301 Westbank Dr., B-100 barbaravandyke.kuperrealty.com

Green Mango Real Estate Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single realtor. 512-923-6648 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com

Judd Waggoman — Christie’s International Real Estate Your ultimate source for luxury real estate in Los Cabos. Ranked #1 Realtor in Los Cabos, Mexico by InMexico Magazine. 530-751-6797 judcaborealestate.com

LODGING AND TOURISM

RESTAURANTS

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm

Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.

Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

Barlata Tapas Bar

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Lenoir Cannon + Belle Cannon + Belle is a dynamic, multi-station open kitchen restaurant featuring a delicious Texas-fresh menu plus specialty tap wine and cocktail program. 512-482-8000 500 E. 4th St. cannonandbelle.com

East Side Pies Fresh, local thin crust pizza - we know what you want. 512-524-0933 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Vinaigrette A farm-to-table restaurant serving entrée salads and botany-inspired drinks/cocktails. Patio dining and parking available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. 512-852-8791 2201 College Ave. 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, NM 505-842-5507 1828 Central Ave. SW, Albuquerque, NM vinaigretteonline.com

Flyrite Chicken At Flyrite, we believe fast food should be real food. Our delicious sandwiches, wraps and shakes are fresh and made to order. Drive Thru. Eat Well! 512-284-8014 2129 E. 7th St. 512-243-6258 6539 Burnet Rd. flyritechicken.com

Fonda San Miguel

SPECIALTY MARKETS Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

Distinctive interior Mexican cuisine and fine art. 512-459-4121 2330 W. North Loop fondasanmiguel.com

Honey’s Pizza Neapolitan pizza, baked goods, ice cream and burgers. 512-237-5627 109 NE. 2nd St., Smithville honeyspizza.com

Jobell Cafe & Bistro We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

FRESH 2018

Baked in a casserole dish, with fruit on the bottom and biscuit dough in pieces on top. The rounds of dough resemble cobblestones when baked.

Fruit on the bottom, with a crumbly layer of streusel, usually made from only sugar, flour and butter (unlike the similar crisp, which often contains oats).

A baked dish with fruit on the bottom, and rolled pastry on top. Once out of the oven, the pastry is broken into pieces, allowing the edges to absorb the juices.

edible ink

deciphering

Like a cobbler, but made on the stovetop in a skillet, with fruit on the bottom, and spooned biscuit-style dough on top. Also called a slump.

DESSERT

Pastry crust on the bottom, fruit in the middle, and usually pastry on topâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;either fully covering the pie, or in strips, woven together in a lattice.

A baked dish with fruit on the bottom, and a crispy layer on top. Unlike a crumble, a crisp usually has oatmeal andâ &#x201E;or nuts in the topping.

Placed in the pan with cake batter on the bottom, and fruit on top. As it bakes, the fruit settles toward the bottom and is suspended in the cake.

Traditionally made with layers of fruit (usually apples) and buttered bread pieces or crumbs, and baked. In some areas a crisp is also known as a Betty.

bambiedlund.com

by Bambi Edlund

Feed Your Resolution Eating vegan, paleo or gluten free? Following Whole 30? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got you covered. Visit wfm.com/resolutions for recipes and inspiration.

WFM.COM/STORES | @WHOLEFOODS