Edible Austin Heirloom 2018 by Edible Austin

No. 61 Nov/Dec | Heirloom 2018

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

the

Heirloom issue

Christmas Gifts. Texas Style.

We deliver the finest steaks from our farm to your home. Quality is bred into everything we do, and you’ll be able to taste the difference.

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44 FARMS FAMILY PACK Give your family and friends a gift that will soon become part of your holiday traditions and enjoyed all year through: 44 Farms Angus Steaks. Our family pack features (2) 16 oz Ribeyes, (2) 14 oz NY Strips and (2) 8 oz Top Sirloins.

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44 FARMS TEXAS PACK

YETI PRIME RIB PACK

Bring the authentic tastes of Texas to your loved ones this year with our Texas Pack. Featuring a selection of our favorite items from around the state, this box includes: 44 Farms Black Bull Blend Coffee, Honey Toasted Pecans, multi-floral Wildflower Honey, 44 Farms Salt & Pepper Blend and our popular Simply Smoked Beef Jerky.

Arriving in a versatile YETI® Roadie 20 cooler, this 4-5 lb. smoked prime rib is the perfect gift for foodies and outdoor adventurers.

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CONTENTS HEIRLOOM features

BY HAND

The resurgence of handmade signs.

FOR THE LOVE OF BISCUITS Round or square? You decide which of these flaky treats hits the buttery spot.

BUTTERMILK PIE Simple ingredients make for an enduring favorite.

19 8 what’s on our COUNTER 10 notable EDIBLES Operation Turkey, Larry Butler Memorial Scholarship.

CELEBRATIONS AND SWEET ENDINGS

14 cooks at HOME

Joel Mozersky.

29 cooking FRESH

Texas sides for holiday meals.

You can’t go wrong with a Texas dessert wine to finish your next meal.

35 FARMERS diary

COVER: Biscuits from Fixe Southern House (page 23). Photography by Dustin Meyer.

La Flaca Farm.

50 edible INK

Pie chart.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE LET’S BE THANKFUL

PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dawn Weston

EDITOR Kim Lane

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Darby Kendall

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS here’s no denying that this year has been a long one, but as we pre-

Claire Cella, Dena Garcia

pare to move into the new year, it’s time to take a look back and be

MARKETING SPECIALIST

thankful for the bright points in 2018. I am truly thankful for the

Rachel Davis

wonderful community in Austin that has supported us for the last eleven years—we are constantly inspired to create thanks to our wonderful partners and readers. I’m also so thankful that in my job, I get to lift up and promote local Austin artisans and introduce people to the diverse, sustainable and delicious food businesses and producers in Texas. As a free publication, our goal is to bring you meaningful, high-quality content. This is possible thanks to the support of all of our partners and advertisers—so please remember to support them this holiday season. They are the reason that we can continue to provide this magazine at no cost to our readers. And thank you for being a reader, supporter and part of the Edible Austin

INTERN Blaise Compton

DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

FOUNDER Marla Camp

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

family. We’re thankful for you, and look forward to telling you more stories of our Central Texas heroes in the years to come.

CONTACT US 1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2018. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

Give the Gift of Local 6

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GIFT A SUBSCRIPTION TO A LOCAL FOOD LOVER EdibleAustin.com/store

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

W H AT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

ON OUR

COUNTER

by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

We’re always trying new local products. Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

THE ABGB We never need an excuse to enjoy beer at The ABGB, which recently won Large Brewpub of the Year at the Great American Beer Festival for the third time in a row. And the beer garden’s new holiday brews make our regular visits even more exciting! This month, the brewery is releasing Captain Ivan Drago, a seasonal Russian imperial stout with flavors of chocolate and roasty malts. You can enjoy it with a delicious pizza or sandwich at The ABGB, or get it to-go, thanks to their convenient crowlers. 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

TAMALE ADDICTION Tamales are a staple on holiday tables throughout Texas, but some folks just don’t have the time to make ’em from scratch. Enter Tamale Addiction, a local vendor of organic masa tamales. The family-run business has sold tamales around the city for nearly a decade. You can still find them at most farmers markets in Austin or you can order them online, with your pick of four assorted tamale packages, such as “Lustful Carnivore” and “Hyped Vegetarian.” Tamale Addiction’s retail frozen tamales can be found at Wheatsville Food Co-op, Royal Blue Grocery and Peoples Rx. 512-278-1775 tamaleaddiction.com

YEGUA CREEK FARMS Cold weather in Central Texas means pecan season and the sweet expectations of plenty of pecan-based desserts. For your nutty needs, Elgin-based Yegua Creek Farms offers both fresh, raw pecans and flavored pecans, which range in tastes from chipotle to honey—there’s even a sweet champagne flavor, perfect for winter celebrations. Along with pecans, the farm sells a variety of desserts, jellies and breads at their market booth. Find them at the Texas Farmers Market locations at Lakeline and Mueller and at the Pflugerville Pfarmers Market. 512-856-0192 yeguacreekfarms.com

SIETE FAMILY FOODS We have a new “cheesy” treat to share with all of you, but especially our dairy-free friends! Siete Family Foods, known primarily for its grain-free tortillas and tortilla chips, recently released cashew queso, a dairy-free alternative to Austin’s favorite dip. The queso comes in two flavors, mild nacho and spicy blanco, both of which are perfect for satisfying your cheese cravings. Though the dip is a departure from the gooey texture of its original counterpart, it works fantastically with chips and as a sauce on Tex-Mex dishes. Both flavors are made with ingredients including cashews, tomatoes and nutritional yeast, which provides that addictive cheesy flavor. Find the queso at Whole Foods Market. sietefoods.com

notable EDIBLES A TIME FOR GIVING

hen Operation Turkey founder Richard Bagdonas gave away his Thanksgiving leftovers to a homeless man in downtown Austin back in 2000, he didn’t real-

ize what he was putting into motion.

95 percent of every dollar you donate goes toward feeding someone.” Tolbert grew up in Bastrop as part of a large extended family with

The next year, he gave away two full meals; just five years lat-

its own Thanksgiving tradition. Each year, he delivered leftovers

er, his officially named Operation Turkey had grown to include a

from his family’s feast to neighbors and others in the community

dedicated corps of volunteers, and the number of donated meals

who otherwise would have gone without. The Tolbert family didn’t

had risen to more than 500. By 2010, they provided a fully pre-

have a lot of money, but everybody worked hard harvesting from his

pared Thanksgiving dinner with all the trimmings to 4,000 Aus-

grandmother’s garden to produce the farm-fresh, high-quality food

tinites in need.

found on the table and shared with neighbors. Tolbert says he natu-

That same year, Bagdonas handed over Operation Turkey to current director Brian Tolbert, and the movement hasn’t slowed down.

rally gravitated toward Operation Turkey as an adult and was ready when Bagdonas asked him to take over the operation.

This year, Tolbert expects the group to provide 75,000 meals to

“I said ‘yes’ immediately,” he says. “I vowed then to add a city

people in 22 cities across the country, including Austin. It’s a huge

every year, and we have 22 cities now. Maybe on down the road,

undertaking that wouldn’t be possible without the help of 25,000

the board will have to cut back or hold steady because we don’t

volunteers and plenty of generous donations from individuals and

want to get to a point where we’re not a 100 percent volunteer or-

businesses. There are no paychecks at Operation Turkey, and Tol-

ganization. But for now, we’re still growing. I never stop thinking

bert works a full-time paying job in addition to his volunteer work.

about it…we started working on this year’s event on Thanksgiving

“We pay a five percent fee to a foundation that holds the money

night of last year.” —Clay Coppedge

for us, and that’s it,” Tolbert says. “Everything else goes toward buying, preparing and delivering the meals. Not every organization can say that

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

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Find out more at operationturkey.com or call 866-678-8751.

FOR LARRY

o honor longtime East Austin friend, farmer and mentor Larry Butler, the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance (FARFA) has established the Larry Butler Memorial Scholar-

ship Fund for Beginning Farmers. The FARFA board decided to establish the funds soon after Butler succumbed to liver cancer on June 28 at the beloved Boggy Creek Farm that he and his wife, Carol Ann Sayle, started in 1992. FARFA is a national organization that supports and advocates for independent family farmers, ranchers, livestock owners, homesteaders and consumers. Executive Director Judith McGeary says her group wanted to do something special to commemorate Butler—not only because he and Sayle were among the founding members of FARFA, but also because Butler was well-known across the state for his generosity and willingness to help new organic farmers find their way. “We thought it would be appropriate to establish a scholarship in his name because helping and mentoring beginning farmers of any age was so much of what he was all about,” McGeary says. “He came to farming as a second, or really a third occupation, and he was a great believer in the value of information and education and helping others. So that’s what this scholarship is set up to do.” Butler and Sayle first began growing organic fruits and vegetables for their own use in 1981, at their property near Gause in Milam County close to where Butler grew up. Once they’d purchased and established Boggy Creek Farm, they received an organic certification, making the farm one of the first certified organic farms in

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

the state and one of the earliest urban farms in the country. Boggy Creek quickly became a mecca, not only for hungry customers but for other farmers hungry for knowledge. Brad Stufflebeam, farmer and former president of the Texas Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (TOFGA), has credited Butler with inspiring and encouraging him to pursue farming— even through lessons you may not expect, such as how to build a potato planter out of a toilet flange, and how to eradicate squash bugs with a propane flamethrower. FARFA is accepting donations to the scholarship fund and through a sister organization, the Council for Healthy Food Systems. The scholarship will provide financial assistance for beginning farmers to attend FARFA, TOFGA and other educational conferences. McGeary says that FARFA’s website will soon feature an application form for farmers who want to apply for the funds. —Clay Coppedge Find out more at farmandranchfreedom.org

COOKS at Home

JOEL MOZERSKY BY N AT H A N M AT I SS E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY N AT H A N B E E LS

espite what canned concoctions may lead people to believe,

dishes, only one taste brings him back to childhood—to some-

humble chicken soup can actually be a work of art. A broth,

thing that reminds him of his grandma.

so goldenly hazy it’d make IPA drinkers jealous, surrounds

“I cook a lot of things, but they don’t necessarily have a lot of

crispy islands of croutons; carrots pop against this canvas, as do can-

meaning to me. I like to cook what I want to eat,” Mozersky says.

nellini beans and seemingly sun-kissed zucchini, and a sprinkling

“But my grandmother would always make soups and add lots of

of Parmesan and dill brings it all together with additional color, fra-

dill. The flavor brings me back to that. Dill is the only nostalgic

grance and texture.

taste I have in my memory, and it’s an herb that not everyone uses

Of course, the beauty and composition of this particular chick-

all the time. So I feel it’s a little underappreciated…it’s so good.”

en soup should surprise no one. By now, many Austinites who

Mozersky’s chicken soup has naturally evolved from Grand-

like food have seen (though not tasted) Joel Mozersky’s work.

ma’s over the years. To start, his preferred flavor profile doesn’t

Over the last 15 years, the longtime interior designer has left his

rely on dill and dill alone. Instead, his holy trinity is dill, white

imprint all over town—from Bird’s Barbershop and Antonelli’s

wine and Parmesan cheese—lots of Parmesan cheese. “I love

Cheese Shop to The Highball bar next door to the flagship Alamo

chicken soup, but I also love Parmesan cheese,” he says. “If I ever

Drafthouse. He dreamed up the “Real World” Austin house and a

had to give up a cheese…I mean, I love all cheese, but the only one

tour bus for The Dixie Chicks, too. As he puts it, “I’ve done a lot

I’d freak out about would be Parmesan.” This trio takes a simple

of weird little jobs over the years.”

chicken broth and elevates it—the wine adds complexity with its

Despite his variety in vision, Mozersky continues to be in high

acidity; the Parmesan ups the overall savoriness; and the dill cuts

demand within one particular design niche: restaurants. From

through it all in a clean, complementary way. And he’s correct

Juliet Italian Kitchen to the latest Pinthouse Pizza expansion,

when he adds that you can’t really “over-Parmesan” this soup.

restaurateurs within our city’s growing food scene have continu-

(Although interestingly, even though the soup is generous with

ously sought out his skill ever since his first (and perhaps highest

cheese, his friends still lovingly refer to it as “wine soup.”)

profile) project: Austin’s pioneering Japanese restaurant, Uchi.

Whether you want to call it chicken or wine soup, Mozersky

“Basically someone gave me a chance in 2003 with Uchi, and it

insists the best way to make it involves borrowing an approach

went well,” he says. “From then, I was pretty busy.”

from his design career and trusting your creative instincts. While

Mozersky notes that food has always been a big part of his life,

he can provide a base recipe for others to follow, he prefers to

though, long before Uchi. While he was growing up in Central Tex-

listen to his taste buds through periodic tastings and adjust-

as, his mom attended culinary school and eventually became a food

ments—making tiny tweaks to the broth-to-wine ratio, or to the

columnist for the San Antonio Express-News. Rather than being a

overall cook time for ideal vegetable texture. The upside to do-

straight critic, however, she wrote restaurant and dish profiles, or

ing it this way is that one month the soup might involve basil

tracked down local recipes for interested readers. “I grew up eating

and artichokes, and the next it could be heavier on mushrooms

good food—both making it and going out for it,” he says. “We tried

and zucchini. “The great thing is you can make it with whatever

a lot of cuisines…not that I liked everything…but it helped me de-

you have—the basic broth tastes good with whatever,” he says.

velop a palate and appreciation for various flavor profiles.”

Of course, you can always make this soup the hard way—roasting

Mozersky loves to cook at home and his kitchen can be de-

a chicken yourself, cooking raw cannellini beans, etc.—but the

scribed as sleek—somehow combining rustic and modern aesthet-

easy way via a grocery-store rotisserie chicken and canned beans

ics—with great pops of color, such as his orange chicken-soup pot.

tastes great, too. “This soup is about Sundays,” Mozersky adds.

His Instagram (@whatjoelmadefordinner) has become a must-fol-

“I want to just eat something simple. It’s hearty and warm; the

low in local food media and showcases an endless amount of cui-

taste of dill is comforting; plus…Parmesan. This dish has all the

sine-spanning dinner inspirations. Yet within that wide array of

winners.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

DILLED CHICKEN AND WINE SOUP Serves 4–6 4 T. olive oil 1 sweet onion, chopped 4 celery stalks, chopped 4 carrots, peeled, chopped 1 zucchini, chopped 1 bottle white wine 2 cans cannellini beans, drained, rinsed 4 c. chicken broth, store-bought or homemade ¾ c. (or more) Parmesan cheese, grated with a Microplane from a block (avoid pre-shredded) 1 roasted chicken, skin removed, meat pulled (roast one yourself, or a rotisserie chicken from the store works great) 1 bunch fresh dill, chopped fine Toasted sourdough croutons, for serving (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the onion, celery, carrots and zucchini, and cook until the vegetables are softened. Add the wine, about a cup at a time, until the alcohol is cooked off. Add the beans and chicken broth to the pot, and let the soup cook for about 15 minutes on simmer. Slowly stir in the grated Parmesan cheese and let it absorb into the broth. (You can’t really add too much cheese to this soup, but do it slowly, so it doesn’t glob up!) Add the chicken, let the soup cook for about 10 to 15 minutes more, then add the dill. Ladle the soup into bowls and top each with a few croutons, if using, and additional Parmesan, if desired.

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mid the low hum of industrial-size fans in a shotgun-style warehouse near bustling South Lamar Boulevard, Gary Martin of Gary Martin Signs hunches over a set of sketches on

onionskin paper, trying to figure out what to do with box lettering that spells out “Powerhouse.” About 20 small paper cups filled with paint sit haphazardly next to paintbrushes, rulers and cans of spray paint on the table behind him. Books, rolls of paper and CD cases line the shelves on the wall and tiny dots of paint speckle everything. The space looks like a cross between a body shop, mad scientist laboratory and art studio. “I might want to electrify them, the way I did Torchy’s,” he says. Martin is a sign painter in Austin, and though his name might not be a household one, his work is famous throughout town. Are you familiar with the mid-century modern, teal-and-red P. Terry’s sign? Martin designed that. What about the charged yellow-andred letters that spell “Torchy’s Tacos” with the little devil in the middle? That was his design, too. The colorful and campy signs at Threadgill’s, Esther’s Follies and Dirty Martin’s Place? All his. He counts himself as one of only a handful of local sign-painting artists—a throwback to the time before computer sketches chipped away at the artistry; and before vinyl printing made it cheap and easy to put up generic signage. “Hand-painted signs and murals add warmth to a city,” says Joe Swec of Joe Swec Sign Painting, who is famous for the “Willie for President” mural on South Congress Avenue. “One of the reasons I started was because when I grew up in the Bay Area and would go into San Francisco, I used to see how all the hand-painted signs gave the city a much more humanistic atmosphere as opposed to a strip mall with manufactured vinyl signs. I wanted to do that for Austin when I moved here.”

EDIBLE ARTISAN

HAND by JENNIFER SIMONSON photography by MELANIE GRIZZEL

Gary Martin

In a world overrun with fast-moving everything, and with alternate and cheaper methods to create signs, it’s clear that oldschool sign painters are dedicated to the craft and take great pride in the slow, handmade aspect. “I think now with how much technology we have and how we communicate through social media, anything that is tangible and handmade has more appreciation,” says sign painter Norma Jeanne Maloney of Red Rider Studios. Maloney’s career started in 1984 when she began painting signs for the racetracks in Lexington, Kentucky. She honed her skills as a sign painter in San Francisco when she opened Red Rider Studios, a vintage-style sign and commissioned-works shop. In the middle of her sign-painting career, she took a break to become a truck driver before eventually moving to Austin. She’s since painted signs for Hops & Grain Brewing, Tamale House and Stubb’s BarB-Q. “We were warned in the eighties, when the vinyl machine was introduced, that it would ruin hand-painted signs,” Maloney says. The modernization didn’t exactly ruin the craft, but the business did take a hit for a while. Luckily, it seems to be experiencing a renaissance—especially with the popular retro designs and vintage styles that lend themselves so well to the craft. “Sign painting is a rare art form these days, but it has increased in popularity recently with pop culture spotlighting typographic design,” says Andrew Manning of Manning Signs. Starting in 2009, Gary Martin 20

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Joe Swec

mentored Manning for three years on the importance and integrity of letter work. In 2012, Manning began his own business, and now does logo design, window lettering, indoor mural design and painting, chalkboards and even restroom door lettering for restaurants and bars such as Turntable Eatery, Buck Wild and North Italia. Also boosting the popularity of the art form is Austin’s colorful and intricate handcrafted murals and elaborate wall-size signage found around town. “There’s nothing better than starting out with a window or a piece of wood or a side of a building and within a couple of days, you’ve created something that’s living art,” says Maloney. “And the best part is that you can see your work when you’re out!” All of the painters we spoke with say they’re hopeful about the future of hand-painted signs, especially locally. “Austin is a progressive city, so people tend to want good-quality, artistic stuff,” Martin says. Still, like any working artists, they’re always watchful for any downward shifts in the economy, because they know that art is usually the first thing cut from the budget. Maloney says she’s not too worried about it, though—partly because she has a plan B. “I think people will always want something that’s quality-driven; still…I keep my [commercial driver’s license] current just in case I have to go on the road.” For more information: Gary Martin at garymartinsigns.com or call 512-479-6160 Joe Swec at facebook.com/joeswecsignpainting or call 805-453-8964

Norma Jeanne Maloney

Norma Jeanne Maloney at redriderstudios.com or call 512-906-4952 Andrew Manning at signpaintingaustin.com or call 512-924-6389

Andrew Manning

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embracing LOCAL

FOR THE LOVE OF BISCUITS BY DA R BY K E N DA L L • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

Cisco’s Restaurant

ound versus square; toasty versus soft; tall versus com-

ate it, they couldn’t make the same biscuit. We’ve been using the

pact—there’s a great variety of Southern-style biscuits

same oven to make them for over sixty years.” For added nostal-

around Austin, and plenty of opinions. Fortunately for the

gia, top off a split biscuit with Cisco’s old-school liquid butter—or

biscuit-obsessed, our town boasts an abundance of eateries that

simply use it as a large, fluffy vessel to soak up the rest of your

serve the baked good, and we visited with five that serve some of

Tex-Mex sauce.

the best. Regardless of personal biscuit preferences, all these lo-

On the opposite end of Austin’s food timeline is Bird Bird

cal joints are serving up delicious and buttery pillows of comfort.

Biscuit, a new biscuit sandwich shop located on Manor Road.

One of Austin’s beloved biscuit-hawking classics, Cisco’s

Started by Brian Batch and Ryan McElroy, owners and operators

Restaurant, has used the same recipe for decades. The East Aus-

of local café Thunderbird Coffee, the restaurant’s large, square

tin institution, known for its Tex-Mex, has been around since

biscuits were inspired by a biscuit-centric experience they had

1950. Cisco’s round biscuits have a distinct appearance—a dark-

in Nashville. “Somewhat naively, we rolled up expecting a sand-

ly browned top with white edges—which owner Matt Cisneros

wich on a biscuit. It was more like sandwiches meant to be eaten

credits to the history of the recipe. (Cisneros is also the grandson

on a plate with a knife and fork,” McElroy says. “I mean, yeah,

of the restaurant’s namesake, Rudy “Cisco” Cisneros.) “When we

they’re sandwiches, but you can’t really eat them with your hands,

took over the restaurant last year, the biscuit recipe wasn’t even

like the Earl of Sandwich intended. We had to work really hard

written down…we’ve just had the same people making it for so

to make a biscuit that could be handheld as a sandwich.” Though

long,” he says. “If someone wanted to go home and try to recre-

their biscuits are designed to cradle hearty fillings such as bacon, EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

Bird Bird Biscuit

Confituras Little Kitchen

Olamaie

eggs and chicken sausage, purists can simply order the “Biscuit by

online. The biscuits are in such high demand at the restaurant

Itself ” when a craving hits.

that they created a webpage allowing you to order up to four doz-

For a round, piping-hot biscuit that brings on a Deep South

en, 48 hours in advance. The biscuits are square with rounded

food trance, visit Fixe Southern House. Chef James Robert was

edges and a toasty, browned exterior with a seam that begs to

born and raised in southwestern Louisiana, where biscuits tradi-

be opened into halves and slathered with their essential honey

tionally contain lard as a main ingredient. “Biscuits are serious

butter. Fojtasek first started experimenting with biscuit recipes

business where I’m from, so it was important for me to stay in

several years ago while he was still living in New York, and didn’t

line with tradition,” Robert says. “Although I think mine are a bit

stop right up until the restaurant opened. “Biscuit recipes are

better, my mom’s and grandmother’s biscuits would give mine a

actually a lot about ratio, but they’re also a tremendous amount

run for their money!” Each biscuit at Fixe is made to order, and

about technique,” he says. “It’s one of those items that’s incredibly

served with a slightly sweet whipped butter.

simple in its ingredients, and therefore technique really shines.”

If you’re a proponent of the square-biscuit variety, visit

If there’s a universal trait among the biscuits from these restau-

Confituras Little Kitchen for your fix of local preserves and

rants, it’s the care that goes into each one. Austin is undergoing

toweringly tall baked goods. Owner Stephanie McClenny makes

a biscuit renaissance, so get out there and try these handcrafted,

her uniformly angled biscuits with a blend of heritage flours

oh-so-delicious bundles of love.

milled locally by Barton Springs Mill, giving them a darker color throughout and the ability to “hold up really well in a pool of sausage and gravy,” says McClenny. “Our biscuits were developed in-house and tested exclusively with our fruit preserves; each biscuit tested for ultimate ‘jamability.’ Only a few made it through the rigorous testing,” she says. “We tweaked the recipe for a good six months before we really found what we were looking for.” The final iteration has a staggering total of 81 layers in each biscuit, with a made-to-order gluten-free version available, as well. With the holiday season upon us, it would be almost criminal to overlook Southern-style restaurant Olamaie and its pioneering system for ordering Chef Michael Fojtasek’s signature biscuits

For more information, visit: 512-478-2420 ciscosaustin.com 512-761-4922 birdbirdbiscuit.com 512-888-9133 fixesouthernhouse.com 512-710-9370 confituras.net 512-474-2796 olamaieaustin.com

Fixe Southern House EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

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Spotlight on pups

Dog Restaurant Week Treat your pup to a holiday feast.

he holidays are a time to enjoy delicious food with loved ones, especially our beloved furry friends! From November 12 to 18, you can bring your pooch to a local patio and treat them to a fantastic meal fit for a king, thanks to Dog Restaurant Week. The fido-friendly menu includes a fall feast with turkey and garden vegetables, beef sliders, pumpkin truffles and a canine cocktail made of frozen bone broth. This multi-course feast is cooked up with ingredients you’ll feel good about

feeding your dog.

While on the patio with your pup, you can enjoy a special cocktail for humans, and proceeds will benefit pet-related nonprofits. All of this is made possible by Vodka for Dog People, a program of Tito’s Handmade Vodka, which works to better the lives of pets and their families, both locally and globally. Find the list of local eateries participating in Dog Restaurant Week at edibleaustin.com. If you’re interested in making these tail-wagging dishes at home, you can find the recipes, courtesy of Dragonfly Dog Bowl, on the website as well.

Visit titosvodka.com/dogs for more information on Vodka for Dog People.

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COOKING FRESH

TEXAS

SIDES

This year, we asked a few Austin chefs to share with us a side dish that might be found on their own celebration tables. You’ll see some familiar seasonal characters, but also some of the unique cultural influences and inspirations of our area, and definitely some Texas flair. This holiday season, let a great side dish make you the sleeper hit of the party.

HONEY-PECAN BRAISED GREENS Courtesy of Eden East Chef Sonya Coté

Serves 6

all it the romance of cooler temperatures or the allure of eating meals outdoors under large oak trees covered in lights: Whether you’re a fifth-generation Texan or a wide-

eyed transplant to Austin’s boom, there ain’t no place like Central Texas for the holidays. We’ve benefited greatly from the rich confluence of cultures, tribes and immigrant homesteaders who’ve worked this sometimes unforgiving land in a climate that wasn’t always crop-friendly. Through the years, they grew what they could and passed down recipes and techniques to give rise to a uniquely Texan food culture. Autumn and winter celebration meals took advantage of the seasonal bounty that continues to thrive here this time of year—squash, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, greens, alliums, herbs, pecans and more. Of course, meat-centric main dishes have traditionally graced tables this time of year as well, but the importance of a delicious, seasonal side dish (or three) hasn’t been lost on Texan cooks. It’s all about a thoughtful texture, color or flavor contrast to elevate the palate and complement a protein-rich main dish—from various types of dressings, stuffings, gratins and casseroles, to sautéed, roasted and sauced vegetables—something sweet, something savory, something to satisfy those who say they live only for the holiday sides.

by CHERYL COUTURE photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

1 c. olive oil, divided 3 large bunches of greens (such as collards, mustard greens, kale or broccoli rabe), thick stems diced small, greens cut into 1-inch strips 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ¼ t. dried red pepper flakes 1 c. vegetable broth or low-salt chicken broth ½ c. honey ½ c. apple cider vinegar, divided Salt and pepper, to taste 3 c. pecan pieces Heat ½ cup of oil in a large stock pot or braising pot over medium heat. Add the diced stems of the greens, garlic and red pepper flakes. Stir the mixture for about 3 minutes, until the garlic is golden. Add the greens by large handfuls—stir just until they begin to wilt before adding more. Be sure to also toss the greens with tongs to coat them in the oil. Add 1 cup of broth to the pot, cover, and simmer until the greens are just tender. If the mixture is dry, add more broth 1 tablespoon at a time. Simmer for 1 to 10 minutes, depending on the type of greens. Season with salt and pepper to taste, mix in the honey and half of the apple cider vinegar, and transfer to a baking dish. Top with the pecan pieces. Drizzle the greens with the remaining oil and vinegar. Bake to warm at 300° when ready to serve.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SALAD This salad boasts a perfect harmony of sweet and savory—it also makes for a great starter dish to kick off your holiday meal. Courtesy of Sour Duck Market Chef Bryce Gilmore Serves 4 For the dressing: 12 garlic cloves ¾ c. grapeseed oil 3 t. sesame seeds ½ c. white vinegar

1 t. salt 1 t. lemon zest 1½ t. lemon juice 3 t. maple syrup

In a hot skillet, toast the garlic with the oil until golden brown. In a dry, hot pan, toast the sesame seeds until light golden brown. Remove both pans from the heat and let their contents cool. Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Let the dressing cool before serving. For the squash: 1 butternut squash ½ t. thyme, chopped 5 garlic cloves, minced

2 t. salt 1 t. black pepper 1 T. grapeseed oil

Heat oven to 350°. Peel the butternut squash until it is fully orange, with no skin or green parts remaining. Cut the squash to a medium dice, discarding the seeds and skins. Toss the squash with the thyme, garlic cloves, salt, pepper and oil. Roast for about 30 minutes, just until the squash is tender.

For the chèvre: ¹⁄³ c. onion, finely diced ²⁄³ c. banana pepper, finely diced 1 jalapeño, chopped

7 oz. Pure Luck chèvre 1 t. salt Pinch of black pepper 3½ T. Texas olive oil

Sauté the onion and banana pepper until translucent. Combine all the ingredients, except the olive oil, in a blender and whip together. Slowly pour in the olive oil while the ingredients are being whipped until fully incorporated. For the pecans: 2 c. pecans 2 T. sugar

1½ T. hot water 2 t. thyme, minced 2 t. chives, minced

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl. Place the ingredients on a baking sheet pan lined with parchment paper and nonstick spray. Bake at 300° for 20 minutes, turning and stirring pecans every 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. For the salad: 1 c. Castelvetrano olives, minced 2 small onions, diced

1 bunch lettuce greens (Bibb, oak leaf, spring mix or butter lettuce all work.)

In a large bowl, mix the ingredients with the dressing, roasted butternut squash and candied pecans. Toss lightly. Garnish with the chili pepper chèvre.

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ROASTED ACORN SQUASH WITH GREEK YOGURT AND PECANS Courtesy of Emmer & Rye Chef Kevin Fink Serves 6 4 acorn squash, halved lengthwise Olive oil, for drizzling Salt and pepper, to taste 1 c. pecan pieces ½ c. butter ½ c. apple cider vinegar 15 strawberries 1 c. Greek yogurt ½ c. chopped parsley ½ c. chopped fennel fronds ½ c. spearmint flowers (or substitute mint leaves) ½ c. sunflower petals (or substitute rose petals) Sourdough breadcrumbs, toasted Heat the oven to 450°. Drizzle the squash halves with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the squash, cut-side down, on a sheet tray and roast for 15 minutes. Once cool, remove the seeds and skin. Cut the squash meat into cubes and set aside. In a sauté pan, toast the pecans in the butter on low-to-medium heat. You want the butter to brown, and the pecans to fry and turn golden brown. Drain the pecans, reserving the butter, and set aside. Mix the butter and vinegar together. To make dried strawberry-top powder, trim the green tops off of the strawberries and place on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake at 135° for 1 hour, until the tops are fully dried. Remove from the oven and blend in a spice grinder until they become a powder. For serving, place the squash in a large bowl, gently toss with the brown butter and apple cider vinegar, and sprinkle with pecan pieces. Thin the Greek yogurt by whisking it gently, then drizzle or pipe it on top of the squash. Sprinkle with the herbs, greens, breadcrumbs and dried strawberry powder and serve.

TAMALE-JALAPEÑO CORNBREAD DRESSING Courtesy of Jack Allen’s Kitchen Chef Jack Gilmore Serves 8–10 6 T. butter 1½ c. chopped onions 1½ c. chopped red bell pepper 2 c. chopped poblano peppers 3 large jalapeños, stemmed, seeded and chopped 1 bunch fresh sage, chopped 1½ T. dried oregano 1 lb. cornbread, broken up ¼ c. chopped fresh cilantro 1½ c. crushed corn chips 1½ c. corn kernels, fresh or frozen (thaw before baking) 1½ c. cream-style canned corn 3 c. chicken broth (homemade or store-bought) 1 doz. tamales (any flavor), heated, shucked and chopped into 1-inch pieces Salt and pepper, to taste In a large, heavy skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onions, bell peppers, poblanos, jalapeños, sage and oregano and sauté approximately 15 minutes, until tender. Place the cornbread in a large bowl and stir in the sautéed mixture. Mix in the cilantro, corn chips, corn kernels, canned corn and chicken broth. Heat the oven to 325° and butter a 9-by13-inch baking dish. Stir the tamale pieces into the dressing and season to taste. Place the dressing in the baking dish, cover with foil and bake approximately 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake 15 minutes more, until the stuffing has browned. If the stuffing seems dry, add more butter.

MORE HOLIDAY SIDES From Zach Hunter of The Brewer’s Table: Candied Texas Yam and Smoked Apple Casserole Beet Poached Pear and Purple Carrot Salad with Smoked Mascarpone on a Honey-Malt Tart From Matthew Taylor of Farmhouse Delivery: Cabbage, Chard and Pesto-Rice Salad with Citrus, Spiced Pecans, Feta and Honey-Balsamic Dressing From Sonya Coté of Eden East: Butternut Grits From Brian Moses of Olive & June: Ricotta Gnudi

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FARMERS diary

LA FLACA FARM BY C L AU D I A A L A RC Ó N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S

rom the outside, the ’80s ranch-style home on a cul-de-sac in

this works out.’ Now I need [more] space and someone to help me.”

Southwest Austin looks like any other, but follow a dirt path

At a mushroom convention in Seattle, a fellow attendee hand-

lined with raised beds of nasturtiums, Swiss chard and Turk’s

ed Rodriguez Boughton the résumé of Ben Carroll, who had just

cap to the backyard. Instead of a lawn, you’ll find a space overflowing

completed his horticulture degree in Connecticut but didn’t know

with beds of fragrant edible herbs and flowers. Welcome to La Flaca.

what to do with his life. Grad school wasn’t an option, so instead,

Before Alejandra Rodriguez Boughton became an urban farm-

he passed his résumé to everyone he knew. It was kismet that one

er, she had a promising career as an investment banker with one

made it into Rodriguez Boughton’s hands, and it brought him to

of Mexico’s largest financial institutions. She moved to Austin

Austin for a potential opportunity.

from her native Monterrey, Mexico, in 2012 to attend the Univer-

“I came over to see what she had,” says Carroll. “She had a

sity of Texas at Austin’s McCombs School of Business, but while

few restaurants, and a few starter plants (‘minimum viable prod-

completing her MBA, she had an epiphany: The world of big busi-

uct,’ interjects Rodriguez Boughton), but not much else. We start-

ness was just not for her anymore.

ed looking for [additional] property. My job was to find a space

While figuring out what was next, she sought comfort in cook-

where the soil wasn’t contaminated and that I could convert [into

ing, but instead found frustration when she wasn’t able to find the

a working farm], and hers was to dodge HOAs and make sure the

Mexican ingredients she needed. Inspired, she decided to grow

City was okay with what we were doing. She did a lot of foot-

hard-to-find chiles and herbs for personal use on the small balcony

work—everything was very well thought out and placed out.”

of the apartment she lived in at the time. It occurred to her that

Today, the duo grows over 150 varieties of herbs, edible flowers

perhaps other home cooks and even restaurateurs may be having

and chiles from 25 different warm-weather countries both in the

similar frustrations, and might be interested in these elusive prod-

half-acre lot behind the original house and at the offsite property

ucts. “I thought…can I sell to restaurants? Can I make a business out

located at Texas Keeper Cider in Manchaca.

of this?” she recalls. “Restaurants started buying, so I said, ‘Okay,

A typical day for the La Flaca team starts before sunrise. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

Rodriguez Boughton checks email and messages for restaurant orders, compiles them and sends them to Carroll, who stays onsite at the Manchaca property. He picks herbs and she picks edible flowers (she has smaller fingers and picks fast; he’s better at making herb bunches) and makes the flower arrangements to send to restaurants. While Carroll makes deliveries, Rodriguez Boughton does whatever needs to be done depending on season, such as starting seeds. “We finish the farm day when it starts getting hot—usually around noon—then we do indoor work,” she says. “I do all kinds of office work, from accounting, marketing and accounts receivable, and regular running-a-business stuff.” Carroll builds worktables, cleans the garage or the shed, “pretty much anything I can get away with indoors,” he says. They also dry herbs and chiles to make tea blends and flavored salts to sell at farmers markets. In the summer, they take weekends off, but for the most part, “if restaurants are open, we are open,” says Rodriguez Boughton. And they service plenty of them, such as The Brewer’s Table, Lenoir, Puli-Ra, Suerte, Olamaie, L’Oca d’Oro, Guild, Confituras, Aviary, Royal Fig, Lucky Robot, Swift’s Attic and Emmer & Rye. “Sometimes our list is forty items long, with all kinds of herbs in large quantities,” she says. “We sell thousands of edible flowers year-round—including fourteen varieties in August. We really work hard to maximize the space.” Fall weekends get much busier with farmers markets, classes and community events they host. Also, production increases due to the cooler weather. “You can cut garlic chives down to the stalk and they come back in a week or two,” says Carroll. During this season, they harvest and sell 5,000 to 10,000 flowers per week, including bougainvillea, Moringa flowers and cucumber blossoms. They grow at least 15 types of chiles and 13 varieties of basil—with unusual offerings like white-stemmed Thai basil and Tulsi (Indian) basil—and Mexican herbs such as epazote and hoja santa are staples. “I always like to grow new things,” says Rodriguez Boughton, “but they have to meet three qualifications: they must grow well here, have an interesting flavor and produce high yields.” Find out more at laflacaatx.com or call 512-571-3349.

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BUTTERMILK PIE An Enduring Favorite BY J E N H A M I LTO N H E R N A N D E Z • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T

or many of us, the holiday season means pie, and lots of it.

We’ve seen the return of

While pumpkin and pecan pies will likely be on the menu at

Prohibition-era

your holiday feasts this season, buttermilk pie is a favorite

hand-cranked

here in Texas, as well.

cocktails, ice

cream

makers and now the “come-

For the uninitiated, buttermilk pie is part of the custard-pie

back” of buttermilk pie and

family and consists of simple, easily sourced ingredients, such

other pies often referred

as sugar, flour, eggs, buttermilk, vanilla extract and butter (think

to as “desperation pies” or

crème brûlée though slightly sweeter, with a hint of tanginess and

“make-do pies”—terms cre-

without the caramelized-sugar top). It’s often confused with its

ated by food historians to

cousin, chess pie, but the latter lacks milk or buttermilk. What the

describe simple treats that

two pies have in common, though—and what has enabled both to

helped lift spirits during

endure—are deliciousness and simplicity of preparation. Home

hard times. Yet, McDermott

cooks throughout history could easily blend the ingredients out

takes slight issue with these

of items they already had on hand, then pour into a piecrust to

labels. She says there’s no

create a comforting, sweet treat.

need to attach a hard-times

This simple pie wasn’t always reserved for the holidays, though.

edge to these pies; they’d al-

In a different time, it was an everyday treat in homes across the

ready been popular for many,

South. Cookbook author, food writer and North Carolina native,

many years. “I think we make

Nancie McDermott, has written extensively about pies, and her

much of the desperation idea

cookbook, “Southern Pies: A Gracious Plenty of Pie Recipes, from

because the simplicity and repeti-

Lemon Chess to Chocolate Pecan,” includes an entire chapter on

tion of everyday food and cooking

custard pies, including buttermilk pie. “Glance through historical

seem severe to us. But these butter-

cookbooks,” she writes, “and you’ll see that from colonial times

milk-pie-making home bakers may also

forward, there were more meat pies than sweet for the first century,

have thought ‘yummy, love me some but-

and that what sweet pies there were had a common base: custard.”

termilk pie!’ Not ‘too bad we don’t have x or

In the case of buttermilk pie, families who churned their own

y or z. Oh well, we’ll make do.’”

butter ended up with buttermilk as a byproduct and had to use it

Local food writer, private chef and food histo-

up. More tangy than cow’s milk (which was called “sweet milk”

rian, MM Pack, concurs. “It makes sense that people

to differentiate it), buttermilk was often used to fry chicken and

used buttermilk because they had buttermilk,” she says.

make biscuits, cakes and pancakes. It was a treat all on its own,

“However, the practice of making custards and custard fill-

too. “It’s hard for most of us living today to imagine wanting to

ings from cooking eggs, milk and sugar together goes back to

pour a big glass of buttermilk and drink it, much less with crum-

medieval Europe and the early Middle East. It’s a flavor/texture

bled cornbread in it as I saw my grandfather do on the dairy farm

combination that has appealed to the human palate well outside

where he and my grandmother worked and lived throughout my

the lean times like on the early U.S. frontier, and during the Great

childhood,” says McDermott.

Depression and the two World Wars.”

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

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Bastrop resident Jaynie Buckingham’s own storyline changed when she entered a pie-baking contest using her grandmother’s buttermilk pie recipe. Then a nurse, she now owns the pie truck, Cutie Pie Wagon. She says that buttermilk pie is so popular now because “it transports us back to a simpler time of shucking peas and eating Grandmother’s chicken on Sunday. In our hurry-up

Life, like food, should be savored and celebrated.

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²⁄³ c. sugar 3 T. flour 1 c. buttermilk ¼ c. melted butter 2 eggs, beaten well ½ t. vanilla extract 1 prepared piecrust Heat the oven to 425°. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar and flour and use a fork to stir them together. In another bowl, combine the buttermilk, butter, eggs and vanilla, and use a whisk or a fork to mix them together. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and mix together. Carefully pour the mixture into the pie shell and place it in the center of the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°. Bake until the edges puff up and the center is fairly firm and wiggling only a little when you gently nudge the pan—about 20 to 30 minutes more. Place the pie on a cooling rack or a folded kitchen towel and let cool to room temperature.

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C E L E B R AT I O N S

AND

SWEET ENDINGS

by KRISTI WILLIS photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

essert is the highlight of any meal for many diners, and

cate and fruit-forward—and it opened up a whole new set of cus-

we put considerable effort and planning into the cakes,

tomers who like that style.”

pies and ice creams we serve. But often overlooked are

Messina Hof ’s Private Reserve Papa Paulo Port continues to

the celebratory wines to complement our sweet endings. Texas

be one of the most decorated Texas wines in competitions, and

wineries offer a wide range of sweet-wine styles that pair per-

the winery now dedicates all 20 acres of their Bryan estate to

fectly with Grandma’s pecan pie or your favorite aunt’s secret

producing their upper-tier ports. Pair them with rich chocolate

fudge recipe.

desserts—the Bonarrigos enjoy theirs with an ice cream sundae topped with port-infused chocolate-fudge sauce. If you prefer

PORT

something a little more savory, try pairing the wine with blue

Port-style wines were some of the first fortified wines pro-

cheese.

duced in Texas. Messina Hof Winery found success in the early

A number of Texas wineries also produce port-style wines

’80s producing a port from Lenoir grapes that’s rich in flavors

from white grapes. This lighter style will vary in flavor depending

of blackberries and raspberries with hints of chocolate. “In the

on the grapes used, with blanc du bois and viognier among the

eighties, most Texans didn’t drink a lot of wine, and port was

most popular. These light fortified wines taste of sweet peaches,

reserved for the cigar room,” says Paul Bonarrigo, owner of

honeysuckle and caramel, and they partner well with lighter des-

Messina Hof. “Our ports were much more approachable—deli-

serts, like a fruit pie with a fluffy meringue topping.

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MADEIRA Originating from the Portuguese island of the same name, Madeira is made by “baking” the wine at high temperatures (more

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than 100 degrees) in cellars called estufas. The heat creates a sweet wine made luscious with honey and caramel flavors. Raymond Haak, founder of Haak Vineyards and Winery in Santa Fe, Texas, was a pioneer at harnessing the Texas heat to create a Lone Star version of this classic wine. His experiment

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paid off and has received wide acclaim from customers, critics and wine competitions. Made with blanc du bois grapes, Haak Texas Madeira is sweet with the flavors of peaches and apricots drizzled with honey and just a touch of nuttiness, a natural match for chocolate truffles or pecan pie. For a cheese course, try a harder cheese like Gruyère to complement the nutty flavors in the wine. Est. 1986

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GLÖGG Spiced red wine is a holiday tradition in Europe, and Fredrik Osterberg—originally from Sweden—missed the Christmastime treat. He quickly began lobbying his co-founders at Pedernales Cellars to create the traditional Swedish holiday wine, called glögg, shortly after the winery opened. “We didn’t know what he was talking about, so he brought back a number of examples for us to taste,” says Julie Kuhlken, co-founder and chief marketing and hospitality officer at Pedernales Cellars. “It’s Christmas in a bottle.” The Texas glögg uses tempranillo as its base wine and is for-

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tified with brandy spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. While Swedish glögg is quite sweet and often served warm, the Pedernales Cellars version is drier and needs additional sugar added if you intend to heat it. Gingersnaps are the traditional pairing for this holiday libation,

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but any spiced cake, cookie or pie will complement the baking spices in the wine. The Pedernales Cellars tasting room manager

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swears that glögg is also the perfect wine to enjoy with fruitcake. If

• Homemade sauces & premium cheese

you’re looking for a cheese match, fondue is ideal. Whether choosing a port-style wine to serve with holiday fudge

• Locally sourced meats & produce offerings

or glögg to pair with a pumpkin pie, you can’t go wrong with a Texas dessert wine to finish your next meal. And, don’t worry if your dinner party doesn’t finish the bottle. Most dessert wines will keep for one to two weeks if well-sealed and stored in the refrigerator.

www.EastSidePies.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

GUIDE TO THE GRAPES WINE STYLE

SUGGESTED PAIRING

WINERIES

Madeira

Chocolate truffles, pecan pie or Gruyère

Becker Vineyards Haak Vineyards & Winery William Chris Vineyards

Muscat

Fruit tart, panna cotta, crème brûlée or

Wines of Dotson-Cervantes

Gorgonzola

Enoch’s Stomp Vineyard & Winery Messina Hof Winery McPherson Cellars

Port

Chocolate or blue cheese

Becker Vineyards Brennan Vineyards Enoch’s Stomp Vineyard & Winery Haak Vineyards & Winery Messina Hof Winery Pedernales Cellars

Glögg

Gingersnaps, spiced cake, pumpkin pie or

Pedernales Cellars

fondue

Note: Port is a protected name and can only be used by wineries that were producing wines before the name was restricted. Newer Texas wineries use the name Portejas, a name trademarked by Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association for Texas port-style wines.

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

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SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER

A DAY IN THE LIFE BY AMY GALLO Farmers’ Market Coordinator, Sustainable Food Center

ustainable Food Center (SFC) runs two weekly farmers markets every Saturday—one in downtown Austin and one in Sunset Valley. We shadowed the market crew of

one of our oldest vendors—Johnson’s Backyard Garden (JBG)—to see what it takes to prepare for our favorite day of the week! 4:30 a.m.—JBG Farmers Market Coordinator Devon Sisneros is already on the way to the packing shed, where produce for the day’s markets is stacked high on pallets in a giant walk-in cooler. There are seven markets to get to today, from Waco to Katy, and everyone needs to load up with veggies and equipment before they can head out. “This pallet jack has a wonky wheel; it only pushes and won’t pull,” Sisneros yells across the loading dock to a co-worker. She goes over and together they muscle the towering stack toward the waiting truck. 7:30 a.m.—Sisneros deftly backs into a tight space marked “JBG” in chalk on Fourth Street at the downtown SFC Farmers’ Market. She carefully opens the back door of the truck—checking for any cases that may have shifted in the bumpy drive from the farm—then starts unloading with the help of a few market crew members who have materialized. Setting up the market is equal parts brawn, applied psychology and artistry. New winter crops, such as rainbow carrots, go out front to draw in customers. Creating this display takes at least an hour, and customers start lining up early in an attempt to beat the rush. 9:30 a.m.—The booth has been abuzz nonstop since the market opened at 9, and no one has taken a break; the crew offers customers recipe suggestions for their newly purchased produce, restocks veggies and reorganizes the display after a chef came through and wiped out the limited stock of golden beets. In a rare lull, one of the crew members sneaks away to pick up tacos and coffees for everyone, which they take turns eating on the back of the truck.

Holiday meals make some of our best memories.

1 p.m.—The market is officially over, and though the crew has been at full speed all day, they spring into action to stow away any unsold produce and break down the booth. The team debriefs about the day while a few other market vendors stop by the booth—trading coffee beans and loaves of bread for a share of veggies.

Help make this a memorable year for all Central Texans.

2:15 p.m.—Sisneros pulls the truck into the loading dock at JBG where the day began 10 hours ago. A few other market workers have already returned and folks are recounting the day’s triumphs while they whir around unloading vehicles. The produce is now re-sorted, refreshed, hosed off and packed into clean bins for the next day’s markets. Almost every market ran out of Brussels sprouts, so Sisneros and two others wash and pack an additional 10 cases. 5:30 p.m.—Everyone heads out. Sisneros gives the loading dock one last sweep and heads home, ready to start it all over again tomorrow. For more information, visit sustainablefoodcenter.org EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

edible

MARKETPLACE Over 80% of readers tell us they have contacted or purchased from an advertiser after seeing ads in Edible Austin. Let’s chat today! dawn@edibleaustin.com

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Growlers make great gifts!

Now Serving 44 Farms Beef! Scratch Kitchen, Hormone & Antibiotic Free Proteins.

Pints to stay. Growlers to go.

Southbound I-35 just before Oltorf

THE DIRECTORY

ARTISANAL FOODS FOND Bone Broth

Bone broth tonics designed to be the foundation of your culinary and nutritional life; made with sustainably sourced ingredients from farmers who practice holistic methods. fondbonebroth.com

Gillen’s Candies + Wine

Chocolate shop, wine bar and market. A place to come experience a myriad of flavors. Enjoy cheese, coffee, jerky and craft beer. Taste olive oil and vinegar on tap. 830-833-3233; 1725 S. Hwy. 281, Blanco gillenscandies.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams

Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622; 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 1135 512-609-8029; 6555 Burnet Rd., Ste. 200 512-502-5949; 1905 Aldrich St., Ste. 150 ilikelick.com

SRSLY Chocolate

Central Texas’ own hand-crafted, bean to bar chocolate. 850-270-8572; 117 E. 3rd St., Taylor srslychocolate.com

GrowlerExpressTX.com BEVERAGES

Becker Vineyards

Winery, vineyards and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681; 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall 307 E. Main St., Fredericksburg beckervineyards.com

Bending Branch Winery

Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thursday through Sunday. 830-995-2948; 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394; 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Bloody Revolution

From Bloody Revolution Gourmet Mixes in Austin, TX comes a nothing-else-needed Bloody Mary Mix that’s as great for cocktails as it is for cooking. Start a REVOLUTION! bloodyrevolution.com

Civil Goat Coffee

Cafe, roastery and artisanal wholesale coffee. 512-792-9929; 704 N. Cuernavaca Dr. civilgoats.com

Growler Express

Taproom and growler fill station serving craft beer, ciders and wine. 512-361-0911; 1567 Main St., Ste. 800, Buda growlerexpresstx.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

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KTonic Kombucha

Proudly brewed in Austin. We produce Texas’ only 100 percent organic, low-sugar and all-tea kombuchas. Our delicious varieties are great on their own or added to your favorite spirit. ktonickombucha.com

Messina Hof

Est. in 1977, Messina Hof is a family owned winery based on the three cornerstones of family, tradition and romance. 979-778-9463; 4545 Old Reliance Rd., Bryan 830-990-4653; 9996 U.S. 290, Fredericksburg 817-442-8463; 201 S. Main St., Grapevine messinahof.com

Republic Whiskey

Republic Whiskey has notes of rich oak and vanilla bean fading into dark cherry, with a bold finish like a West Texas sunset. Barreled and bottled in Central Texas by Dripping Springs Distilling. republictxwhiskey.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods

Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260; 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893; 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400; 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981; 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300; 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Still Austin Whiskey Co.

Whiskey distillery. 512-276-2700; 440 E. Saint Elmo Rd., Bldg. F stillaustin.com

Texas Coffee Traders

East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279; 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Texas Keeper Ciders

Local cidery making dry, small-batch ciders from 100% pressed juice. Beautiful taproom in far South Austin open to the public Friday through Sunday, and weekdays for private events. 512-910-3409; 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka

Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011; titosvodka.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople

Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

EDUCATION

Julia’s Garden Montessori School

Offering a nature-based Association Montessori International curriculum, with a focus on gardening and foreign languages, to ages 0 to 9 years in Central Austin. 512-790-4094 juliasgardenmontessori.com

EVENTS

Palm Door

Our facilities boast a total square footage of 7255 versatile indoor and outdoor space available for private events for groups up to 1000. 512-386-1295; 508 E. 6th St. 512-391-1994; 401 Sabine St. palmdoor.com

FARMERS MARKETS

Sustainable Food Center

SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074; 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

FARMS

44 Farms

Founded and family-owned since 1909 in Cameron, 44 Farms is the U.S. premier producer of ethically raised Angus beef. Our ranchers produce beef with no added hormones, antibiotics or artificial ingredients. 254-697-4401; 963 PR 44, Cameron 1509 S. Hwy 36, Cameron 44farms.com

GROCERS

Royal Blue Grocery

Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient, compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. 512-524-0740; 1645 E. 6th St. royalbluegrocery.com

Whole Foods Market

Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200; 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003; 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730; 12601 Hill Country Blvd. 512-358-2460; 4301 W. William Cannon Dr. 512-690-2605; 5001 183 Toll Rd., Bldg. A wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND WELLNESS

Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli

Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N. peoplesrx.com

Rawsome

We sell all organic, Colorado-grown, Texas-blended CBD oils. 856-422-3669; 2907 Race St., Fort Worth 1210 Rosewood Ave., Ste. 10 getrawsome.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Der Küchen Laden

Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937; 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

The Herb Bar

Best place to cure what ails you and a resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251; 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Weston Table

Weston Table seeks to provide beautiful online entertainment driven by a passion to share extraordinary experiences, personal memories and cherished traditions. 617-899-4907; 14 Irving Rd., Weston, MA westontable.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Barton Springs Nursery

Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655; 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100; 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Natural Gardener

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113; 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

LODGING AND TOURISM

Blanco Chamber of Commerce

Visit us online to plan your getaway to the heart and hub of the Hill Country. 830-833-5101; 300 Main St., Blanco blancochamber.com

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm

Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

NONPROFIT

Central Texas Food Bank

The Central Texas Food Bank is on the front line of hunger relief in a 21-county area, helping nearly 46,000 Central Texans each week access nutritious food when they need it the most. 512-282-2111; 6500 Metropolis Dr. centraltexasfoodbank.org

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART The Harry Ransom Center

A renowned humanities research center at The University of Texas dedicated to deepening the appreciation of the arts and humanities through exhibitions, programs and research. 512-471-8944; 300 W. 21st St. hrc.utexas.edu

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

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PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Label Company

Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204; 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

REAL ESTATE Compass Real Estate

Pairing the industry’s top technology with unsurpassed local expertise, Compass agents deliver the smartest, most sophisticated real estate experience in the Austin region. compass.com

Judd Waggoman Real Estate

Your ultimate source for luxury real estate in Los Cabos. Ranked #1 Realtor in Los Cabos, Mexico by InMexico Magazine. 530-751-6797 judcaborealestate.com

RESTAURANTS Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.

Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242; 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

Barlata Tapas Bar

Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211; 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Casa Garcia’s

Tex-Mex favorites abound with breakfast all day, full-service catering and homemade tortillas at every location in and around Austin. 512-804-2606; 1901 W. William Cannon Dr. 512-268-8300; 5401 S. FM 1626, Kyle 512-989-2524; 15803 Windermere Dr., Pflugerville 512-218-8908; 1901 N. I-35, Round Rock 830-608-8026; 1691 SH 46 W., #335, New Braunfels 737-600-8171; 12700 Lexington St., #100, Manor casagarcias.com

East Side Pies

Fresh, local thin crust pizza - we know what you want. 512-524-0933; 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437; 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900; 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. 512-488-9585; 13265 Hwy 183 N. eastsidepies.com

Flyrite Chicken

At Flyrite, we believe fast food should be real food. Our delicious sandwiches, wraps and shakes are fresh and made to order. Drive Thru. Eat Well! 512-284-8014; 2129 E. 7th St. 512-243-6258; 6539 Burnet Rd. flyritechicken.com

Fonda San Miguel

Distinctive interior Mexican cuisine and fine art. 512-459-4121; 2330 W. North Loop fondasanmiguel.com

Hideaway Kitchen + Bar

A casual, chef inspired all-day restaurant and full service bar and lounge. Locally-sourced southern comfort food in a cozy atmosphere that mirror’s Austin’s easy-going way of life. 512-527-3007; 4323 S. I-35 hideawayatx.com

Intero Ristorante

An Italian inspired menu that highlights the changing seasons in Central Texas. Embracing the importance of sustainability with locally raised animals and farmed produce. 512-599-4052; 2612 E. Cesar Chavez St. interorestaurant.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe

Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436; kerbeylanecafe.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327; 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Lenoir

Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778; 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Maudie’s Tex-Mex

Maudie’s Tex-Mex has been serving up tried & true Tex-Mex for over 25 years. Creating handmade dishes right in your neighborhood. Quintessential Tex-Mex for today’s Austin. 512-473-3740; 2608 W. 7th St. 512-440-8088; 1212 S. Lamar 512-832-0900; 10205 N. Lamar 512-306-8080; 3801 N. Capital of TX Hwy. 512-280-8700; 9911 Brodie Ln. 512-263-1116; 12506 Shops Pkwy. 512-381-5500; 4600 W. Guadalupe St. maudies.com

Tillie’s

Restaurant and bar now open at the Camp Lucy Resort. 512-894-2633; 3509 Creek Rd., Dripping Springs tilliesdrippingsprings.com

Trianon Coffee

Do you love coffee? Trianon Coffee has been serving in Westlake since 1985. Espresso, teas, breakfast tacos, sandwiches and baked goods. Over 30 different coffees roasted by hand. 512-328-4033; 3654 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. A trianoncoffee.com

Zax Restaurant and Bar Casual American bistro. 512-481-0100 312 Barton Springs Rd. zaxaustin.com

SPECIALTY MARKETS Make It Sweet

At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401; 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

DEC

13-24

Art • Gifts • Live Music

Edible ink

CRUST Crisp and flaky

CONSTRUCTION Just a bottom crust— or bottom and top

FILLING Either sweet (fruit) or savory (meat, fish, mushrooms)—a deeper dish means more filling-to-crust ratio

SERVE Straight from the dish

CRUST Usually a bit thicker and a little more robust

FILLING Fruit is common but there are vegetable, olive, and potato galettes

FAT Lard is classic but many pie bakers use a mix of lard, or shortening and butter, for flaky texture and delicious flavor

DISH Sloped sides, round

CONSTRUCTION Just a bottom crust, folded in at the edges FAT Butter is traditional

DISH No dish; bake this freeform pastry on a cookie sheet.

SERVE Slide onto a plate or stand WHAT ELSE? The Italian crostata is basically the same thing

FILLING Sweet or savory (tomato, caramelized onion, cheese). A shallower dish means less filling/crust

DISH Straight sides, often with a scalloped edge and removable bottom. Round, square, or rectangular.

CONSTRUCTION Bottom crust only CRUST Firm and crumbly, leaning toward a shortbread FAT Butter is traditional

SERVE Unmold to a pretty plate or cake stand

WHAT ELSE? Often with a scoop of ice cream

WHAT ELSE? “Tart” means someone of loose morals, but it was once a compliment for young women who dressed up with lots of ribbons—as pretty as jam tarts.

Bambi Edlund bambiedlund.com

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Season and bag your food

Drop it in the water for a perfect cook

Crisp it up for a perfect finish

This year’s turkey will be next year’s legend. #OrganicTurkey #MakesMeWhole

Edible Austin Heirloom 2018

Articles inside

By Hand

For the Love of Biscuits