Edible Austin Jan/Feb 2019

What’s in Season / Plant-based Burgers / Local Markets / Art of the Tip No. 62 January/February 2019

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

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Stardust Sipper 2 oz cranberry-orange infused Tito’s Handmade Vodka 1/2 oz orange liqueur 1/2 oz lemon juice 1 lemon slice star anise Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice.

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AUSTIN’S ORIGINAL CRAFT VODKA®

CONTENTS R EGUL A R S

07 Eat Drink Local 08 What’s on Our Counter 10 N otable Edibles

20

24

COOKS AT HOME

EDIBLE MARKETS

Robert E. Jones cooks up some sustainable, Gulf Wild, red snapper.

Neighborhood markets with warm hospitality and surprising selections.

28

33

THE ART OF THE TIP

PLANT-BASED BURGERS

Navigating tipping throughout all of your culinary adventures.

Choosing plant-based alternatives without giving up the burger.

Wonder Women of Wine, Planet Texas 2050.

14 W hat’s in Season 16 E dible Endeavor GrubTubs.

39 B ack of the House The Cavalier.

43 E dible Gardens Growing Indoor Citrus.

49 S potlight on Local Connecting with Our Roots.

50 E dible Ink

Fauxtanical: Hamburger.

On the Cover

What’s in Season / Plant-based Burgers / Local Markets / Art of the Tip No. 62 January/February 2019

Ce l e b ra t i n g Ce n t ra l Texa s food c u l t u re, sea son by sea son

Black Bean Burger from our Plant-Based Burgers Cooking Fresh story (page 33). Photography by Casey Woods.

EdibleAustin.com / 5

PUBLISHER’S note

Fresh Starts

H

PUBLISHER

appy New Year, readers! For our small-but-mighty

team

at

Edible

Austin, the arrival of the new year

brings a fresh start, new beginnings and hope-

Jenna Northcutt

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dawn Weston

ful resolutions — sentiments I hope you can all relate to. This edition of Edible Austin also

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

reflects those exciting notions, as we are debut-

Darby Kendall

ing a new look for the magazine starting with the January/February issue. Let us know your thoughts on our new look by sending over a message via social media, or email us at info@edibleaustin.com.

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Weber

Among the changes, we moved the directory of advertisers out of the issue and

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

onto our website. There, you can easily access more information about our part-

Claire Cella, Dena Garcia,

ners, quickly find their contact information and learn how to support them. Our

Kathleen Brady Stimpert

partners are essential because they allow us to bring you this publication free of charge! If you want to show them some love, give our new online directory a look at edibleaustin.com. These local restaurants, businesses and artisans also help us

MARKETING SPECIALIST Rachel Davis

accomplish our mission: To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local

INTERN

food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local

Blaise Compton

food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community

DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

events.

In keeping with that mission, we’re bringing back our What’s in Season section!

This section will now be included in issues throughout the year to give you an idea of what locally grown food is available at the markets during the current season. We want to make it as easy as possible for our readers to regularly support local farmers, and this is another step in that direction. If you want a catalog of where you can find farmers markets to buy seasonal produce, visit our website for an expansive list.

Take a look at the next page to see all the ways to connect with us outside of print.

We love hearing from y’all about your favorite local foods and what you like to see in the magazine. Use #myedibleaustin to share your local love with us on social media.

Happy New Year, and cheers to fresh starts!

6 / EdibleAustin.com

CONTACT US 1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2019. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

eat drink LOCAL

What’s New at EdibleAustin.com Get even more stories, photos and recipes we didn’t have space for!

Easy-to-Search Recipes Full list of Farmers Markets and Farm Stands Locally Sourced Restaurant Guide Where to Find a Print Copy or Subscribe for Delivery

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Online Directory Exclusive Classes and Events Community Event Calendar Follow along on social media, our website and through the print magazine for everything you need to know about our local food scene.

Exclusive EdibleAustin.com Content Visit our website today for a list of farmers markets and farm stands, where to find us, locally sourcing restaurants and more!

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@brockcaron EdibleAustin.com / 7

W H AT ’ S

ON OUR

COUNTER

by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT 8 / EdibleAustin.com

Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

MERIDIAN HIVE Mead has moved well beyond the Middle Ages, thanks to local beverage artisans like Meridian Hive. For those unfamiliar with the drink, mead is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented honey and water, often with other natural ingredients added for varying flavors. Meridian Hive, started in 2012

by Mike Simmons and Eric Lowe, offers a lightly carbonated draft mead in cans or a traditional still mead sold in bottles. Pictured is their draft mead, Trinity, an off-dry sparkling mead with a vibrant honey taste. Find their many mead varieties at retailers around Austin, including Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods, Twin Liquors, Total Wine and H-E-B. 877-632-3915; 8120 Exchange Dr., Ste. 400 meridianhive.com

THE MEDITERRANEAN CHEF In our office, good hummus is worth its weight in gold — so Grandma’s Hummus, from local food artisan The Mediterranean Chef, is practically treasure to us. The makeup of the dip itself is relatively simple — the hummus contains fewer than 10 ingredients — but the flavor is rich, and the texture has an unforgettable creaminess to it. For fellow fans of Mediterranean flavor, they also sell baba ghanoush, tabbouleh and falafel bites. Find them at The Mediterranean Chef Cafe in Northwest Austin, and at many local markets including Royal Blue Grocery, Peoples Rx, Whole Foods Market, Wheatsville Food Co-op and H-E-B. 512-970-9150; 5908 Aurora Dr. themedchef.com

ONION CREEK KITCHENS As Texans, we often see the word salsa and think of tortilla chips and TexMex. However, salsa encompasses a variety of sauces, including the Italian salsa verde, a delicious blend of olive oil, lemon juice, anchovies, capers and more. Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm makes the Italian staple in Dripping Springs, with flavors that pack a punch. Their salsa verde Italiano is perfect with pasta, lamb chops, fish, bruschetta and grilled veggies. Find their salsa at their Hill Country farm and for sale on their website.

830-833-0910; 5818 R.R. 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

COCOA PURO We have a unique treat to share with our fellow chocoholics! The Kakawa cocoa beans from local artisan Cocoa Puro have five different types of chocolate in one bite, which makes for a blissful blending of flavors. These treats start with fresh-roasted cocoa beans, which are covered in layers of white, milk and dark chocolate, respectively — all topped off with a layer of velvety cocoa powder. The outside of the beans have a smooth texture, while the cocoa bean inside is crunchy, with a consistency reminiscent of chocolate-covered espresso beans. Find the dipped cocoa beans on their website, at Whole Foods Market on Lamar and at SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown. cocoapuro.com EdibleAustin.com / 9

notable EDIBLES

Wonder Women of Wine

by KRISTI WILLIS

A

s her career as a sommelier in the fine dining restaurants of Houston and Austin progressed, Rania Zayyat found that most of her peers — both sommeliers and winemak-

ers — were men.

“Looking back,” she says, “I wish I’d had more female mentors, especially when I was just getting started. I’m grateful that women leaders in the wine community are now much more prevalent in Austin.”

Zayyat wasn’t alone in noticing this disparity. The Guild of Sommeliers has conducted an annual salary survey since 2014, and a central focus of their analysis is the difference in pay by gender.

According to survey responses from the past four years, women comprise only 30 percent of the sommelier workforce and their average salary is less than that of their male counterparts. Fortunately, the gap has begun to close. In 2015, the average income for

Room in Austin. Presenters will include winemakers, sommeliers, distributors and wine business executives with a focus on empowering women — particularly young women — in the industry. The second day will feature a trade tasting of wines from top female winemakers.

male sommeliers was $7,150 more than that of female sommeliers,

“It’s not just about highlighting women for the sake of highlighting

but the most recent survey shows that imbalance narrowing to

women,” Zayyat says. “I choose women who are doing really amaz-

$4,000.

ing things in our industry and trying to make that more the norm.”

Seeing those numbers inspired Zayyat to find ways to empower

Leading up to the conference, Zayyat is sharing the stories of

women in the industry and to help them find their voices in a

women from all aspects of the industry in weekly #FemmeFriday

traditionally male-dominated crowd. “I wanted to promote more

Instagram posts (@wonderwomenofwine). The short interviews

women in leadership roles and create more mentorship programs

capture the diversity in roles, leadership and style of the growing

for young women,” she says.

number of women in the wine world. “There are so many women

In early 2018, the Women’s Initiative of the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas asked Zayyat, now an Advanced Sommelier and wine educator, to host a class highlighting the successes and achieve-

that I draw inspiration from on a regular basis, and I wanted to foster that spirit of mentorship locally by highlighting the amazing women in our city,” she says.

ments of ten female winemakers from around the world. The sold-

Zayyat hopes the interviews not only spark interest in the con-

out class, titled Wonder Women of Wine, motivated her to do even

ference, but also attract supporters. Donations to the conference

more to celebrate and promote women in wine.

will seed a scholarship fund for young women in the industry

That inspiration has transformed into a two-day conference, also called Wonder Women of Wine, which will be held on Saturday, March 2 and Sunday, March 3, at The Sunset

10 / EdibleAustin.com

who might not otherwise be able to attend — an investment in the next generation of Wonder Women of Wine.

For more information, visit wonderwomenofwine.com

Comfort in a Bottle

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Shy Laurel Photography EdibleAustin.com / 11

notable EDIBLES

A Texas-sized Solution

by DARBY KENDALL

T

hey say that what starts here in Texas changes the world, and that phrase has never rung truer than it does today.

Extreme weather events and population numbers are on

the rise, and Texas is experiencing its fair share of both. Texas’ population is projected to double to 55 million by 2050, and our battles with droughts, floods and hurricanes occur all too often.

To solve these issues, we need expert help, and that is precisely what the professionals at Planet Texas 2050 are working toward.

The grand challenge program, launched by the University of Texas in January 2018, combines research from the university’s academic departments with findings from statewide studies to identify solutions to the state’s most pressing issues. “Our focus is on figuring out how to make Texas resilient … a place that’s safe, healthy and ecologically and economically vibrant for everyone who lives here now and will live here in 2050,” says Katherine Lieberknecht, chair of the Planet Texas 2050 Organizing Committee.

The program has four main research pillars: water, energy, urbanization and ecosystem services. All of these pillars influence food availability, but water is particularly essential as a necessary resource for farmers, ranchers and other food producers. One of Lieberknecht’s projects within Planet Texas 2050, the Texas Metro Observatory, will look at “using Austin as a template to figure out how to access food security across the state,” she says.

“Even without the complications of extreme weather events, like

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increasing droughts, just having more people here puts more demand on existing food system infrastructure.”

When asked what Texans can do to prepare for these projected changes, Lieberknecht championed community outreach. “I would encourage people to not only think about water at the household scale but also to start discussions at the city scale about ways to make Texas cities more water-smart over the next couple decades as a way to create that resilient system for the rest of our water uses, including agriculture.”

Experts will also study ecosystems and ways to protect the soil we so rely on. The project is projected to finish in seven years, and at its completion, Lieberknecht says they will begin implementing real changes based on their research. “Our hope is that the new knowledge and the tools we’re developing will really help everyone in Texas reach 2050 with a thriving economy and a healthy environment.”

Find more information at planettexas2050.utexas.edu

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W H AT ’ S

IN

SEASON

Arugula Asparagus Beets Bok Choy Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chard Cilantro Collards Dill Grapefruit Garlic (Green)

Carrot, Ginger Juice

Kale

MAKES 1 SERVING

Kohlrabi

1

apple, seeded and cored

Leeks

2

medium carrots

Lettuce

1 T.

fresh ginger root, peeled

1

medium orange

Mushrooms

1 c.

ice cubes

Mustard Greens

Place all ingredients into your blender and blend for 1 minute, or until the juice reaches your desired consistency.

Oranges Parsley Pecans (January) Peas Potatoes Radishes Spinach Spring Onions Strawberries Tomatoes (Greenhouse) Turnips

photography by

AMY ROBBÂ EdibleAustin.com / 15

16 / EdibleAustin.com

edible ENDEAVOR

GrubTubs

by CLAUDIA ALARCÓN / photography by ANDY SAMS

U

ntil recently, hundreds of pounds of restaurant food waste from meat scraps, bread and cooked food ended up in the landfill every month. Starting in October of

2018 the City of Austin passed an ordinance that all food-permitted business must divert organic material from landfills. Enter GrubTubs, a new Austin-based company that’s come up with an innovative way to close the food-waste loop by turning restaurant waste into economic, protein-rich animal feed. Instead of farmto-table, think of it as table-to-farm.

This regenerative agriculture startup, brainchild of founder and CEO Robert Olivier, collects leftovers from restaurants and delivers them to a participating farm where they become food for grubs. In turn, the grubs serve as feed for chickens and pigs — potentially saving farmers thousands of dollars every month. Since the surge after the new ordinance, the company’s clientele has grown to over 100 restaurants.

“

Aside from the obvious benefits of repurposing waste, it has helped us identify and reduce waste within our own kitchen ...

”

Here’s how it works: GrubTubs provides restaurants with a supply of stackable, easy-to-carry, airtight tubs, which take up much less space in a kitchen, bar or service area than a traditional

adjust their [product] orders accordingly.” Once filled, GrubTubs

trash can. This makes it easy for employees to separate raw food

collects the tubs of fermented waste and delivers them to the

scraps, spent coffee grounds and leftover cooked foods — in-

farm, along with a vial of grub hatchlings. Hatchlings consume

cluding those scraped off plates — from other waste. Olivier

the food waste and turn into full-grown, high-protein grubs in

notes that this increases food-waste recovery from 20 percent to

about two weeks. Because the grubs eat twice their body weight

90 percent, thus reducing trash and recycling management costs

every day, they reduce the volume of the food by 80 percent in

and pickup frequency.

about 24 hours.

The tubs have screw-on lids that seal tightly, so there’s absolutely

Farmers collect and feed the grubs to livestock, which much pre-

no smell, no leaky mess, no flies and no pest concerns. “Having

fer the grubs over more expensive soy and corn feed. This can

the GrubTubs system gives our customers a clearer look at their

save a farmer up to $1,000 per month on feed for 1,000 chick-

food-waste levels,” says Olivier. “And they end up being able to

ens — allowing farmers to increase their livestock and scale their

EdibleAustin.com / 17

edible ENDEAVOR

business while selling quality food back to restaurants at an affordable price.

As one of the early adopters of GrubTubs, Chris Dufau, general manager at downtown bistro Le Politique, is an outspoken proponent. “The system works great for our team,” he says. “It reduces landfill waste and trips to the dumpster. Keeping our food waste separate also reduces the footprint of trash receptacles in the kitchen. It’s good to know that most of our trash is being reutilized.”

Once the tubs are filled at Le Politique, they’re set outside the kitchen on a cart. When the cart is full, the tubs are wheeled to a designated area. Workers then bring in clean tubs to start the process all over. GrubTubs picks up the filled tubs once a week.

“The system is easy to implement, and our staff was eager to learn about how it works,” says Dufau. “The benefits definitely outweigh the upkeep.”

At Eberly, Chef de Cuisine Jo Chan has had a similar experience. “[GrubTubs] has been a fantastic addition to our restaurant,” she says. “Aside from the obvious benefits of repurposing waste, it has helped us identify and reduce waste within our own kitchen — forcing our team to really look into the waste we create and take ownership of our responsibility in the lifecycle of food.”

“The response has been really positive,” says Olivier. “Most of our customers start small, since they’re not sure what to expect, but quickly come to embrace GrubTubs and end up expanding to other parts of their operations or to other locations.”

Olivier loves the idea of eventually expanding to serve residential customers but wants to focus on restaurants first. “And when we say restaurants, this means anywhere that food is sold: corporate cafeterias, grocery stores, hospitals, etc.,” he notes. Reaching this lofty goal would be a huge step in the right direction toward a more sustainable Austin.

Previous page: Robert Olivier and Ty Burk of Westfold Farm.

This page: Stacks of tubs waiting to be delivered.

18 / EdibleAustin.com

For more information, visit grubtubs.com or call 1-844-478-2882.

THE RISE OF

Merlot & Chocolate Tasting Febuary 2-3 & 9-10 Winery Tasting Room 464 Becker Farms Road, Fredericksburg — or — Tasting Room on Main 307 East Main, Fredericksburg Hours: Mon - Thurs, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.; Sun, Noon – 6 p.m.

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cooks at HOME

Robert E. Jones

by ANNE MARIE HAMPSHIRE / photography by NATHAN BEELS

G

reeting us at the door wearing a denim apron with a pocket

While the “real” Nina Simone croons in the background, Jones

for his thermometer, Robert E. Jones’ level of preparedness

clarifies that the need for such granularity stems from the fact

would put any Boy Scout to shame. He’s already got saffron

that both commercial and recreational anglers have been over-

threads steeping in cream and white wine on the stove; sourdough

fishing for decades. The kind of system that Jones and EDF have

muffins baked (from a starter named “Seymour”) and standing by;

put into place for grouper and snapper have allowed those pop-

homemade basil ice cream chilling in the freezer; lobster cooked this

ulations to rebound. “Red snapper is a really big conservation

very morning from a crate he personally brought from Maine on the

success story. It was completely collapsed by 2002,” he says. But

airplane two days before; and red snapper — flown in overnight from

just this year, the species came off the overfished list, thanks to

Galveston — already gutted, gilled, scaled and ready for the grill.

EDF’s efforts to work with commercial fishermen, fisheries and

Today is another day in the triple-digit heat wave known as August-in-Austin, but that’s not about to stop Jones from cooking the whole fish on the grill on his back deck — in full sun, no less — while his chickens, Nina and Simone, lounge in the shade beneath raised herb beds. It’s a dish that’s near and dear to his heart, having grown up on the coast in Rockport and as a lifelong recreational angler.

And it’s also near and dear to his profession: He’s a director for the Environmental Defense Fund (EDF) heading up the Gulf of Mexico Oceans Program, and his work revolves around making sure fish populations, such as red snapper and grouper, are fished sustainably via a market-driven system that benefits all stakeholders in the supply chain. “I fish all the time … it’s one of the perks of my job.

So normally, I would be cooking red snapper that I caught, but this works out perfectly, because I know where they came from and that they are sustainable.”

Jones isn’t stretching the truth when he says he knows where the fish came from. As he chops mango for the cold lobster salad he’s preparing as an accompaniment to the main dish, he explains that these fish have “Gulf Wild” tags on them with a QR code that allows consumers and others to trace the seafood. “It’s a system that we worked on with the fishermen, so you can trace your

government entities to change the way the Gulf is fished. “Instead of having seasons, where everybody rushes out at the same time and fishes as hard as they can, as fast as they can, each [commercial] fisherman gets a separate allocation of fish and they can go out and fish whenever they want. But in exchange for that kind of flexibility, there’s a lot more accountability.”

As Jones talks about all the data generated and analyzed that makes for such a sustainability success story, it’s obvious that he’s very excited about science — and cooking. Finished with the lobster salad preparation and about to plate (“I have grand visions of putting this salad into a stack”), he pulls out a stainless-steel whipper and, almost incredibly to everyone in the room, proceeds to apply saffron foam to the dish. “I like to cook,” he says with a smile after noting the reaction to this level of culinary prowess.

“When I’m not hunting or fishing, I’m usually in the kitchen cooking what I’ve caught or harvested.”

Jones prepares the snapper for the grill by inserting rosemary sprigs and lemon slices inside the fish. “Part of the reason I love my job is educating people — there’s a lot of people whose instinct is to take care of natural resources. There’s just a lot of complexity with marine resources that they don’t realize.”

seafood; you know where it came from. When you click on that

(Incidentally, we later learn, via the Gulf Wild tag, that the red

tab, you can see the captain who caught it; where, approximately,

snapper we ate today was caught by Captain Kenny Guindon on

through GPS; what kind of bait was used; what day it was har-

the Falcon, a 42-foot, dual-rigged, longline bandit vessel targeting

vested. It’s a way of knowing there’s no seafood fraud — that it’s

grouper, snapper and reef fish. Guindon used a vertical line to fish

American-caught, wild-caught, not frozen from China.”

the red snapper using squid as bait.)

EdibleAustin.com / 21

cooks at HOME

Share the Gulf

Grilled Whole Red Snapper with Mint Chimichurri SERVES 4

Share the Gulf is a coalition of recreational and commercial

For the chimichurri:

anglers, restaurateurs, restaurant associations, chefs, grocers,

2

seafood processors and distributors, conservationists and

2–6 T. red wine vinegar (to your taste and consistency)

regular consumers who all agree on the need to educate the

1 c.

fresh mint leaves

public about sustainable fishing practices that enable fair ac-

1 c.

fresh Italian parsley leaves

cess to all — for generations to come.

Robert E. Jones, Director of the Gulf of Mexico, Oceans Program for the Environmental Defense Fund (EDF), which is also a member of the coalition, explains that, “everyone who is involved in the Gulf-sourced fishing supply chain, including the environmentalist and the scientist, came together to

cloves garlic

½ t. salt ¼ t. red pepper flakes 6 T.

olive oil

Mince the garlic in a food processor with the vinegar. Add the remaining ingredients, pulse it down to the consistency you prefer and set aside.

make it clear that [the Texas Gulf] is a shared resource that

For the red snapper:

the nation owns. Whether you live in Minnesota or Texas, you

1

own the fishery in the Gulf of Mexico.”

¼ c. salt

whole 2-lb. red snapper (gutted, gilled, scaled)

¼ c. fresh-ground black pepper As consumers, part of what we can do to ensure the long-

1

term sustainability of our fisheries, including red snapper, is

3–6 sprigs fresh rosemary

to contact our representatives to demand the continuation

2 c. olive oil (not extra-virgin)

of science-based management that adheres to catch limits.

2 c. fresh herb mix (thyme, basil, oregano, etc.)

lemon, sliced

“We’re in an age where science is not popular,” says Jones, “so it seems particularly important in the last couple years to step

Pat the fish dry inside and out. Generously salt and pepper the

up and make sure members of Congress and decision-makers

cavity before lining it with lemon slices and rosemary sprigs

in the administration know that making short-term decisions

(gently mash the sprigs to release aroma). Combine the olive oil

that might benefit one user group tomorrow, at the expense

with the herb mix in the blender on slow speed until smooth but

of these huge stocks of fish that it took twenty-five years to

not emulsified.

rebuild … we need to keep our eye on the long-term vision.”

Some of the Austin members of the coalition include:

Coat both sides of the fish with the herb oil and several pinches of salt and pepper. Place the fish on an oiled grill heated to 425° and cover. (Pro tip: Place the fish down quickly, and do not

• Contigo Austin

move it until it’s time to turn it over or it will stick.) After 5 to 7

• Curra’s Grill

minutes, uncover the grill and gently roll the fish over, using the

• Dai Due

spine as an imaginary hinge, to cook the other side. Re-cover,

• Hillside Farmacy

and after another 5 to 7 minutes, check the meat in the cavity to

• Hopfields

see if it looks cooked and flaky. If not, give it a few more min-

• Lenoir

utes. Plate the fish, generously cover in the mint chimichurri and

• Mongers Market & Kitchen

serve it family-style for a meal that wows.

• Perla’s Seafood and Oyster Bar • Quality Seafood Market For more information, visit sharethegulf.org

Mango-Lobster Salad with Saffron Foam Find the recipe for this perfect accompaniment at EdibleAustin.com

22 / EdibleAustin.com

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edible MARKETS

Just Around the Corner

by VALERIE BROUSSARD / photography by DUSTIN MEYER

M

y small-town Southern upbringing includes many be-

Dia’s Market, on the Brentwood/Crestview border, truly personi-

loved and nostalgic memories — including our Main

fies community. You’ll often find owners Amanda and David Hopper

Street mom-and-pop shops. The owner of the small

greeting customers by name between restocking the carefully curat-

grocery store we frequented knew our names, went out back to

ed aisles of snacks, condiments, chocolate bars and bags of coffee

collect eggs upon request and sent my mother a monthly bill for

beans from artisan roasters from around the U.S. “Our selection is

her purchases. Those days of a pay-me-later line of credit are long

especially conducive to throwing together a quick and easy dinner

gone, but it’s comforting to know that warm customer service and

with ingredients like basmati rice, jarred curry sauce and chicken

attention to local and artisanal product selection — particularly

breasts; kielbasa, sauerkraut and pierogies; or a frozen Bola pizza

in the craft beer and wine departments — still exist today in the

and salad greens,” says David, a busy father of three. Just past the

form of neighborhood markets throughout Austin.

extensive selection of beer and wine, the deli counter offers both

This is by no means an exhaustive list, so get out and wander your neighborhood; perhaps you’ll discover a jewel of your own.

breakfast and lunch sandwiches served all day and made-to-order, along with rotisserie chickens that can be ordered online by 2 p.m. for pickup on Monday, Wednesday and Friday evenings.

The Bee Grocery features a deli with Vietnamese favorites like

512-520-5115; 812 Justin Ln.

phở and bánh mì on housemade bread, as well as French pastries

diasmarket.com

made by the same chefs. General Manager Nikki Bradley is eager to help you make your selections; snacks and travel-size toiletries make it a great last stop before heading to the airport; and the pantry aisle caters to the apartment residents upstairs with staples for easy, cook-at-home meals.

512-861-5002; 1001 E. Sixth St. beegrocery.com Brodie Park Market, tucked into a quiet strip mall off the busy thoroughfare of Brodie Lane in Southwest Austin, is run by Clint

Peg McCoy, who opened Farm to Market Grocery on South Congress in 2005, says that “it’s been such a joy seeing the neighborhood families out walking their dogs and watching kids grow up. When they first started coming in, they could barely reach the counter, and now they’re going off to college. For me, it’s always been about community.” McCoy strives to provide better access to quality food with a focus on convenience, which shows in the ample selection of organic products lining the shelves and freezers, the array of fresh produce and the free parking around back.

Schultze and his wife, An. The couple’s international travels have

512-462-7220; 1718 S. Congress Ave.

influenced their product selection in the way of items such as

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unique salt-and-pepper shakers, Buddhist statues and hand-carved candles. In addition, Clint’s time in Thailand sparked an interest in drinking vinegars, which led him to bring in the Pok Pok Som line, while An’s Vietnamese family shared their bánh mì and pâté recipes for the deli. They work with several small wine distributors to ensure variety and a range of prices for all budgets.

Photos from top left: Peg McCoy from Farm to Market Grocery, Vietnamese Bun from The Bee Grocery, Exterior of The Bee Grocery, Produce at Dia’s Market, David and Amanda Hopper from Dia’s Market, Exterior of Dia’s Market, Wine selection at Brodie Park Market, Clint from Brodie Park Market, Exterior of Brodie

512-719-7999; 9001 Brodie Ln.

Park Market, 11th Street Quickie Pickie interior and exterior and

facebook.com/brodieparkmarket

Farm to Market Grocery interior.

EdibleAustin.com / 25

edible MARKETS

Hyde Park Market, Deli & Organic Grocery (also known as

Royal Blue Grocery’s six Austin stores are all located in densely

“The Flag Store”) is where beer aficionados go for the mix-and-

populated downtown areas, where regulars are a mix of residents,

match six-pack. The owner, who goes by Biman, keeps the place

office workers and hard-hat-carrying construction workers who ap-

nicely stocked. You’ll find Wunder-Pilz kombucha and Little City

pear to be a permanent fixture in our ever-growing city. Co-owners/

cold brew nitro coffee on tap, along with candy, snacks, chocolate,

proprietors Craig Staley and George Scariano credit the addition of

cult favorites like It’s-It ice cream sandwiches and, yes, dozens of

their central commissary kitchen as a game changer — allowing them

international mini flags for sale.

to offer freshly prepared grab-and-go salads, cut fruit and sandwiches,

512-524-4217; 4429 Duval St.

and giving their chefs creative freedom to concoct soups, burgers and

Quickie Pickie offers considerable breakfast, lunch and dinner

we do well in our kitchen while partnering with great Austin brands,”

menus in a fast-casual restaurant setting. Popular items at the

says Scariano. “It’s a great way to represent local vendors.”

East 11th Street location include burgers, tacos and hot and cold sandwiches, while the East Cesar Chavez Street location features La Barbecue food trailer Wednesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. until 6 p.m., or until sold out. Owner Zahir Prasla thinks the unique hybrid of market, café and beer joint is uniquely tailored for each of the neighborhoods. Both locations have two dozen beers on tap, a coffee bar featuring North Carolina artisan roaster Counter Culture and plenty of indoor and outdoor seating.

Thai specials on a regular rotation. “We’ve really enjoyed doing what

512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-499-3993; 241 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St., Ste. 90 512-524-0740; 1629 E. 6th St. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. ,Ste. 120 royalbluegrocery.com

512-479-0136; 1208 E. 11th St.

Deli sandwiches at Manchaca Road’s Live Oak Market incorpo-

512-992-1357; 2027 E. Cesar Chavez St.

rate fresh herbs, peppers and tomatoes from an on-site garden,

quickiepickieaustin.com

where employees also tend a compost pile and enjoy the perk of

26 / EdibleAustin.com

FLOR

DE

——

JAMAICA South-Texas hibiscus tea influenced by Agua de Jamaica (ha-'mai-ka), fruity notes, and an herbal finish.

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Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, Texas 78624 www.littlechef.com ∙ info@littlechef.com 830.997.4937

Photos left to right: George Scariano of Royal Blue Grocery, Live Oak Market soda selection, Live Oak Market, Bill Thom of Thom’s Market, Royal Blue Grocery, Hyde Park Market, Deli & Organic Grocery and their wine selection, Thom’s Market on Barton Springs and Royal Blue Grocery.

taking home surplus produce. A freezer stocked with Jeni’s Splendid

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THE LEANING PEAR H ill Country -inspired C uisine

Ice Cream includes both pints and 3.6-ounce single-serve cups, while the snack aisle is lined with bags of local favorite Reel Popcorn and obscure Japanese sodas.

512-416-0300; 4410 Manchaca Rd. live-oak-market.business.site Open for over 10 years, the Barton Springs Road location of Bill Thom’s Thom’s Market stocks not only locally made cold beverages, snacks and pantry staples, but also sunglasses, t-shirts, beach

Unique. Well Crafted. Delicious.

111 river road, Wimberley, texas 512-847-pear | leaningpear.Com

towels, bug spray and sunscreen — all reminders of the proximity to Barton Springs Pool and Zilker Park. Pick up a quirky pair of socks, a koozie or an Illuminidol Celebrity Prayer Candle with your Tacodeli breakfast or Upper Crust Bakery pastry and a cup of Thom’s custom blend of Anderson’s coffee. Riverside Drive is home to their second location, and they recently opened a third on Spyglass Drive, near a greenbelt trail access point.

CRAFT CIDER

512-479-9800; 1418 Barton Springs Rd. 512-448-3333; 160 E. Riverside Dr.

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AUSTIN HOURS AND DETAILS AT:

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EdibleAustin.com / 27

edible HOSPITALITY

The Art of the Tip

by KRISTI WILLIS photography by KODY GAUTIER AND SAM TRUONG DAN

Y

ou head out for a nice dinner, and the restaurant is busy, so you grab a seat at the bar for a drink while you wait for a table. When the tab comes, you pause — do you tip a

percentage of the total or a buck or two per drink? During dinner, the service is great, but the food is just okay — do you tip on the service, the food or the whole experience? You head to the valet and scratch through your wallet for cash. Is $2 enough? That’s all the cash you have. Trying to navigate what to tip and when can be dizzying at best and frustrating at worst.

While tipping is about recognizing good service, in many states it is also about basic compensation. A federal law allows states to determine a tip credit, letting employers pay less than the minimum wage of $7.25 per hour, with the assumption that the server, host, busperson or bartender will be able to make up the difference in tips. In Texas, restaurants can take a $5.12 tip credit, meaning they only have to pay $2.13 per hour as long as the employee earns enough in tips to reach the minimum wage; otherwise, the employer has to make up the difference.

For servers who make $2.13 per hour, to earn minimum wage — approximately $15,000 per year — they must serve tables whose checks total at least $34 every hour, with diners tipping 15 percent.

28 / EdibleAustin.com

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edible HOSPITALITY

But minimum wage doesn’t stretch very far in Austin’s expensive market, and the City of Austin considers $15 per hour, just over $31,000 per year, to be the living wage. For servers to earn $15 per hour, they need to have at least $85 per hour in checks (pre-tip) if diners tip 15 percent. A generous 20 percent tip drops the total check amount needed to $64.

Table 1 Total check amounts employees have to serve in an hour to earn minimum or a living wage: DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAGE AND TIP CREDIT ($2.13/HOUR)

REQUIRED TOTAL OF CHECKS PER HOUR WITH 15% TIP

REQUIRED TOTAL OF CHECKS PER HOUR WITH 18% TIP

REQUIRED TOTAL OF CHECKS PER HOUR WITH 20% TIP

MINIMUM WAGE $7.25/ HOUR

$5.12/hour

$34.13

$28.44

$25.60

LIVING WAGE $15.00/HOUR

$12.87/hour

$85.80

$71.50

$64.35

Identifying the “correct” amount to tip can start a great debate. We asked our readers to participate in an anonymous survey, which sparked lively comments about tipping etiquette. More than 120 readers participated, and their answers clearly demonstrated that Edible Austin readers are a generous bunch who understand the importance of tipping.

Several readers mentioned that they always tip, even when the service is bad, and many noted that they tip 25 percent or more for table service, well over the standard suggested by the Emily Post Institute, a business that maintains and evolves the standard of etiquette for the modern world. See Table 2.

A few readers suggested twists to the standard percentage tip model for table service.

One reader said they adjusted their tipping percentage based on the meal, tipping 15 percent during breakfast and lunch but 20 percent at dinner, when the meal might last longer. Another reader is a consistent 20 percent tipper but suggested that the tip on wine should be a flat fee rather than based on the bottle price since the labor involved is the same regardless of the price of the bottle of wine.

Counter service and tip jars provided the biggest quandary for readers. One reader noted they don’t tip on a first visit but do tip when they become a regular guest. “It’s always difficult to navigate leaving a tip before receiving any service, such as at a pick up situation or an order at a counter or food truck,” the reader says. “If I’ve been to a place before and know they’ll be doing the bussing or walking around checking on guests, I’m more likely to leave a tip.”

Other readers shared that when purchasing at a coffee shop, they make their tip dependent on the order. When ordering drip coffee, they might skip the tip, but they will add a tip for a latte or more complicated drink. For bar service, most readers tip $1 or $2 per simple drink but tip 15–20 percent for a complex drink like a craft cocktail.

30 / EdibleAustin.com

“

It’s always

difficult to

navigate leaving a tip before receiving any service, such as at a pick up situation ...

”

edible HOSPITALITY

Diners who are weary of the complexity of tipping can frequent a growing number of restaurants that no longer allow patrons to add gratuity; many restaurants now add a hospitality fee directly to the tab. A 2016 American Express survey of 500 U.S. restaurants found that 74 percent had shown interest in no-tipping policies. Of those surveyed, 18 percent had already adopted these policies, 29 percent were planning to do so and 27 percent said they might consider doing so in the future.

For restaurateurs, the move away from a tipping model gives them the ability to distribute wages fairly among their employees. While a new law now makes it possible to split tips between the front and back of house, employers still rely on employees to accurately report those tips for sharing.

Jam Sanitchat, owner of the South Austin restaurant Thai Fresh, moved to a gratuity-included model in 2016 because she wanted to make sure that everyone on her staff made a fair wage. She added the gratuity to the price of the dishes and adjusted the minimum pay for her team to $15 per hour, with a slightly lower wage of $14 per hour for high school students who couldn’t serve beer and wine.

Table 2

“Customer feedback has been positive, and the only customers who complained weren’t tipping for counter service,” says

EMILY POST INSTITUTE

EDIBLE AUSTIN READERS

TABLE SERVICE

15–20%, pre-tax

20% or more

and I’ve had almost no turnover in staff.

BUFFET

10%, pre-tax

10–15%

It’s much better than it was before.”

TAKEOUT

No obligation; 10% for extra service (curb delivery) or a large, complicated order

5–15%

DELIVERY

BARTENDER

15–20% (or more)

two choices: like Thai Fresh or Black Star gratuity-included model) they can add the gratuity to the price of the dish — or, they can follow a model like Loco d’Oro, which adds an automatic service charge to the check. Increasing the dish price to include gratuity means that the customer has to

COUNTER SERVICE No obligation; tip occasionally OR TIPPING JARS if your server or barista provides a little something extra or if you are a regular customer.

5–15%

VALET

10–15%

$2–$5. Tip when the car is returned to you.

Restaurateurs considering the switch have Co-op (another local restaurant with a

10–15% of the bill, $2–$5 for 10–15% of the bill for a pizza delivery depending on the delivery service, 15–20% for size of the order and difficulty delivery by restaurant of delivery $1–$2 per drink or 15-20% of the tab

Sanitchat. “It’s been almost three years,

pay a small increase in tax, but the alternative automatic service charge method can feel to customers like a forced tip.

The benefits to the restaurateur can outweigh the risk of upsetting customers, particularly in a labor market as tight as Aus-

tin’s. In a 2017 article from The Journal of Hospitality and Tourism Research, Michael Lynn and Shou Wang detail that having more consistent wages can help restaurant owners by attracting more professional waitstaff, allowing servers to focus on good service rather than tips, encouraging teamwork and reducing discrimination against perceived poor tippers.

Until there is more uniformity in tipping policies, navigating the different tipping scenarios will continue to be a winding, sometimes confusing path for diners. The best approach is to develop a tipping strategy you can follow through your culinary adventures that lets you feel confident you are supporting everyone in the dining equation.

EdibleAustin.com / 31

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COOKING FRESH

PLANT-BASED

BURGERS

by MICHELE JACOBSON photography by CASEY WOODS

EdibleAustin.com / 33

cooking FRESH

T

ake a stab at how big the plant-based food market is these

Creating a veggie burger is all about consistency, flavor and bind-

days. In the next two years, analysts estimate that total

ing. With conventional burgers, it is the combination of minced

sales of meat and dairy alternatives will reach $25 billion

or ground meat and its inherent fat that keeps the patty together.

— that’s no small potatoes. Even Nestlé, the largest food company

How can you emulate this process with meatless ingredients to

in the world, disclosed that 39 percent of its customer base wants

get the best results? We recommend a ratio of about 60 percent

to replace meat in their diets with plant-based foods.

base to 5 percent flavorings to 35 percent binding.

It’s no wonder, then, that the commercial veggie-burger business

Base: This will be your toothy, moist mixture made of beans or le-

is expected to evolve into a $5 billion-plus industry by the year

gumes, cooked grains or, as in the following recipe, tempeh. You’ll

2020. Once a pariah, it seems plant-based patties have suddenly

want to mash or grate these ingredients, but not too finely or uni-

become the darling of barbecues and campouts.

formly. You can add finely chopped nuts to the mix to provide

In fact, you don’t have to be a vegan or vegetarian to want to eat one.

more texture, protein and fat.

According to Beyond Meat, the parent company of pea protein-based

Flavorings: Seasoning burgers is the best part of making your

Beyond Burgers, 70 percent of those who purchase their product are

own, and you can freely use herbs, spices and other add-ins, such

flexitarians — people who are cutting down on meat consumption

as minced vegetables. Choose a flavor palette and run with it. For

for any of a variety of reasons, including health purposes, animal

example, Southwestern burgers call for dried spices, such as chi-

advocacy and concern for environmental sustainability.

potle chili powder or cumin, and chopped peppers and corn ker-

As a result of market demand, the array of veggie-burger options at stores and around town has become vast. There are veggie burgers that try to imitate beef; some are made from heme, a genetically modified yeast that mimics the iron molecules found in real meat,

nels. Throw in minced fresh cilantro, too. If your taste tends toward Asian flavors, you can mince or finely dice scallions, greens and water chestnuts. These should be lightly pre-cooked, both for flavor and so they don’t prolong the burgers’ cooking process.

while others are tinted a familiar red that comes from beets. There

Binding: Various ingredients can be used to make veggie burg-

are hearty bean-based burgers, Mexican burgers, Asian burgers

ers stick together. Eggs are, of course, a wonderful binding agent.

and California burgers, which are full of grains and nuts. There’s

Oats and bread crumbs (regular or gluten-free) also become

even that mysterious, albeit popular, yellow-tinged burger made

sticky when combined with moisture. Your aim is to have a mix-

from a fungus (an edible one) called mycoprotein.

ture that is the consistency of cookie dough. Chilling the patties

But these store-bought and restaurant patties aren’t your only

prior to cooking can be helpful in keeping them cohesive.

option for a meat-free burger. You can whip up something just

By the time your homemade veggie burger hits the bun, you’ll rest

as delicious in your very own kitchen with quality ingredients.

easy knowing there’s only goodness in the mix. And plant-based

And, if you’re willing to do some serious chopping, homemade

ingredients are generally inexpensive to boot!

veggie burgers can be a one-bowl wonder. Whole-food ingredients such as beans, whole grains, vegetables, seeds and nuts pack

As Americans continue to edge toward ethical eating with an in-

in nutrients, fiber and protein. When making veggie burgers at

creasingly conscientious mind-set, the plant-based food market

home, it’s easy and fun to tailor them to your own palate. Don’t

will continue to expand. If you’re one of the many taking charge

like mushrooms? Leave ’em out! Want minced jalapeños in your

of your health by choosing plant-based alternatives over meat —

Tex-Mex patty? Add ’em in! Understanding the components of a

whether you’re a vegan, vegetarian, flexitarian or just someone

veggie burger — how the whole thing comes together and what

who enjoys a really good veggie burger — you can make a wide

makes it stick — will make the whole process easier.

range of powerhouse patties right in your own kitchen.

34 / EdibleAustin.com

cooking FRESH

Black Bean Burgers MAKES 5–6 PATTIES

16 oz. can black beans, rinsed, drained and blotted dry with a

Mash the black beans with the back of a fork or a masher. (They

paper towel

can be slightly chunky.) Add the minced vegetables to the beans,

½

small green bell pepper, minced

½

small red bell pepper, minced

then mix in the seasonings to combine. After seasoning to taste,

½

small onion, minced

2

garlic cloves, minced

1 T.

ground chipotle powder (can substitute chili powder)

1 t.

cumin

1 T.

cilantro, dried or fresh, optional

place the patties on a cookie sheet that has been sprayed with

Salt and pepper, to taste

non-stick cooking spray, and bake for approximately 10 minutes

1

egg, beaten

each side in a 375° oven. Flip once. Alternatively, the patties can

add the beaten egg and combine. Stir in the bread crumbs and, if you’re using them, the cheese and corn. (At this step it may be easier to knead with clean hands.) Form into 5 to 6 patties, depending on the amount of add-ins you’ve included. If baking,

²⁄³ c. plain bread crumbs ¹⁄³ c. grated cheddar or jack cheese (dairy or vegan), optional

be cooked in a lightly oiled frying pan over medium heat — ap-

¼ c. corn kernels, optional

the usual burger toppings.

Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying

Burger buns (optional)

Burger toppings (optional)

proximately 5 minutes each side. Flip once. Serve on buns with

EdibleAustin.com / 35

cooking FRESH

Quinoa Patties MAKES ABOUT 10 PATTIES

This is the most versatile recipe! I routinely make a lot of quinoa 2½ c. cooked quinoa, cooled to room temperature

just so I can freeze the leftovers in order to whip up these burgers in

1 c. well-chopped vegetables (Whatever you have avail-

a pinch. Virtually any type of vegetable will work, and you can mix

able — leftover veggies from the fridge, or even bagged

different veggies together — you’ll never get the same patty twice!

mixed vegetables. Zucchini, carrots, corn, beans …

Quinoa patties work better on a plate as opposed to in a bun, and you

anything at all!)

1

small onion, very finely chopped

2

garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 t. minced fresh parsley (use dried in a pinch) ¹⁄³ c. grated Parmesan cheese

½ t. fresh lemon juice ½ t. salt

Pepper, to taste

3

large eggs, beaten

¾ c. plain bread crumbs

can make them gluten-free by substituting gluten-free bread crumbs.

Place the quinoa in a large bowl and set aside. When chopping the vegetables, make sure they are uniform in size. Combine the chopped vegetables with the quinoa. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, cheese and lemon juice to the mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then mix well. Add the beaten eggs to the mixture, then add the bread crumbs and combine. (If you aren’t on a gluten-free diet, I recommend using regular breadcrumbs.) Let the mixture rest for 2 to 3 minutes,

Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying

then form it into patties. (Add more bread crumbs if necessary; how-

Burger buns (optional)

ever, be sure to allow a few minutes for the moisture to absorb.) Heat

Burger toppings (optional)

olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Fry the patties to golden brown on both sides, flipping only once. Drain on paper towels.

36 / EdibleAustin.com

cooking FRESH

Tempeh Burger Wraps MAKES 3–4 WRAPS

Tempeh, a minimally processed soy, originates from Indonesia, where it’s a popular meat substitute. I was dubious about grating it, but it only took about 30 seconds. Tempeh can also be crumbled. These patties need a lot of seasoning, so be creative!

8 oz. block tempeh 1

egg, beaten

2 T. plain bread crumbs 1 t. seasoning of choice (I used Harissa, a spicy North African condiment. I also recommend seasoned salt.)

2 T. olive oil 4

green onions, thinly sliced

½

onion, minced

Fresh parsley or other herbs, minced, for flavor and color

Salt and pepper, to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying

Clean lettuce leaves, for wrapping

Toppings (optional)

On the large-grate section of a flat or box grater, grate the tempeh. (Or roughly crumble with your fingers.) Add the rest of the ingredients to the grated tempeh, knead, then form into patties. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the patties, and fry until golden brown, flipping once. Drain on paper towels. Wrap individual burgers in the lettuce leaves and serve with the condiments of your choice.

Lentil Oat Burgers MAKES 8 PATTIES

1 c.

brown lentils

1 t.

salt

6

baby bella (or other) mushrooms, chopped

1

onion, finely minced

1

garlic clove, finely minced

1 c.

organic oats (not quick oats)

¾ c. shredded cheddar cheese (dairy or vegan) 1 T.

minced fresh parsley

1 t.

dried basil

½ t. ground black pepper 1

large egg, beaten

Burger buns (optional)

Burger toppings (optional)

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the lentils and salt, and simmer for 30 minutes or until the lentils are soft. Drain and let cool, then mash with the back of a fork or a masher. Add the mushrooms, onion, garlic, oats, cheese, parsley, basil and pepper, and combine. Adjust the salt if necessary, then add the beaten egg, and combine. Allow the mixture to rest approximately 5 minutes in order for the textures to blend. Form into 8 patties, and place on a baking sheet sprayed with non-stick cooking spray. Bake in a 350° oven for 30 minutes. Carefully flip the burgers once to allow the other side to brown. Serve on buns with your favorite toppings.

EdibleAustin.com / 37

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back of the HOUSE

The Cavalier Photography by NATHAN BEELS

T

his neighborhood dive bar, new to the East Side, prides itself on good food and a friendly atmosphere. The Cavalier’s laid-back ambience is reflected on two mirrors

flanking the bar — posted on them in bold lettering are the house rules, “No Religion” and “No Politics.” And the bar’s motto, “You Be You,” is displayed on the bathroom doors. Owners Chadwick Leger and Rachelle Fox have worked in the Austin food scene for years, and they recently opened The Cavalier to have a spot of their own. The culinary influences of Leger, originally from Louisiana, and Fox, who grew up working at her father’s Caribbean restaurant here in Austin, can be seen throughout the bar.

The menu has a Southern touch, but Fox’s Caribbean roots peek through in the dishes. Stop by for a draft zombie cocktail, jerk chicken wings or boudin balls.

2400 Webberville Rd. thecavalieratx.com EdibleAustin.com / 39

back of the HOUSE

Photos clockwise: Shrimp and Grits, The Zombie cocktail on draft, Brunch in full swing, Buttering the homemade biscuits.

2019: more sustainably a year to live

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edible GARDENS

Growing Indoor Citrus

by SARAH J. NIELSEN / photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT AND BROOKE LARK

T

exas citrus rakes in more than $200 million for the

When will you get to see the fruits of your labor? Well, orang-

Texas economy every year. Though the bulk of the har-

es are traditional Christmas gifts because most varieties ripen

vest comes from ruby red grapefruit and sweet orange

beginning in October. Some varieties fruit nearly all year, in-

orchards, did you know there are almost endless modern variet-

cluding the beautiful but sour calamondin, a miniature orange

ies of citrus that can be grown indoors in containers? Whether

variety traditionally used in Asian cuisines. Lemons and limes

classic or modern hybrid, between the multitude of lemons, man-

also produce often, with four to five “flushes” of growth annu-

darin oranges, makrut limes, tangelos, clementine, and lemon or

ally, each capable of flowering and setting fruit. These stop in

lime-kumquat crosses, there’s a citrus tree suited for every style.

spring and lay dormant until the heat of summer recedes. Mey-

Growing citrus indoors isn’t hard, but there are a few important things to consider. These plants need specially formulated, slightly acidic potting soil, and they do best in an environment free from drafts with at least eight hours of sunlight during winter and tem-

er lemons produce from August through March, and the Eureka variety of lemon produces from July to March. During growth, all citrus plants have phases of fruit drop, where they normally shed flowers and fruit.

peratures kept between 65° and 85°. Citrus plants need higher nitro-

You can probably find citrus plants for sale year-round, but

gen levels during the flowering stage and lower levels of fertilizer

they’re more likely to be available during the flowering/fruiting

during dormant season in late spring and summer; check with your

seasons (March through September) and on sale during dorman-

local nursery to find the proper fertilizer. Choose a plant that’s at

cy (after Christmas).

least 2 or 3 years old if you want it to fruit immediately, and make sure that the leaves are dark, well-formed and glossy, and that the major branches are balanced. Citrus can be planted in any kind of pot or planter that’s big enough — just be sure the pot has several drainage holes in the bottom, because citrus plants don’t like wet feet. Consider adding a water meter to make sure the plant is ade-

In addition to the visual beauty of your new indoor fruit plants, they’ll help clean your air and provide an intoxicating fragrance.

You’ll enjoy fresh fruit and fruit juice, and you can even make use of the whole fruit by candying the citrus peels for delicious snacks, garnishes and gifts.

quately hydrated without being overwatered.

EdibleAustin.com / 43

edible GARDENS

Classic Candied Citrus Peels MAKES APPROXIMATELY ENOUGH TO FILL AN 8-OUNCE JAR

If using store-bought fruit, choose only organic, as pesticides can build up in the peel. Some citrus peels are more bitter than others — boiling in water alleviates the bitterness. Sweet oranges should only need one boiling; lemons may need two; limes may need three; but grapefruit may need up to five baths of boiling water — depending on your taste. In order to reduce bitterness in all fruit peels, avoid the inner, white pith and keep the outer, colored sections of peel only.

Special tools recommended:

Remove the peel from the fruit with a sharp paring knife by first removing the ends of the fruit, then cutting and removing the peel in large segments — avoiding the pith.

Cut the peel into ¼-inch matchstick slices, then boil in 2 cups of water for 10 minutes. (Some fruit peels require multiple changes of boiling water to remove bitterness. Keep a kettle of boiling water ready to expedite this stage.) Drain the peels and allow them to dry while bringing 2 cups of water and 2 cups of sugar to 230° (use a candy thermometer) while stirring as the sugar melts. Reduce the heat and add the peels to the sugar syrup — stirring regularly until the sugar mixture thickens and the peels turn a bit translucent. Remove the peels from the syrup. (Save the simple

Sharp paring knife

syrup for flavoring baked goods or an addition to mixed drinks. It

Candy thermometer

can also be saved and used to start a batch of jam, as citrus peels

Mason jars (optional)

naturally contain pectin, the compound that makes jam thicken.)

Double boiler (optional) For the candies: 4 lemons or limes (or 3 Meyer lemons, 2 oranges or 1 grapefruit)

Dry the peels overnight on parchment paper or dredge them through granulated sugar and then allow to dry. Store at room temperature in a jar. Alternative methods of finishing: Leave the peels in the syrup and refrigerate, or use a double boiler to melt

4 c. water, divided, plus more as needed

some semi-sweet chocolate. Dip the dried peels halfway in the

2¼ c. pure cane sugar, divided (plus ¼ cup more if coating)

melted chocolate and allow them to set up on parchment paper.

3 oz. semi-sweet chocolate (optional)

Store at room temperature in a jar.

44 / EdibleAustin.com

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WE NEED YOU TO VOLUNTEER TO FEED YOUR NEIGHBORS IN NEED Volunteers are the heart and soul of the Food Bank.

They bring our mission to life. Our volunteers ensure that only the safest food leaves our warehouse, keep mobile food pantry lines running smoothly, prepare children’s meals in our kitchen and harvest fresh healthy produce from our garden.

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Drink Responsible.

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WHAT’S FOR DINNER? Looking for healthy seasonal recipes for dinner?

We’ve got a lovely online database of recipes for everyone, or follow us on Pinterest. We’re pinning places to try, gifts to buy and of course, seasonal recipes to make.

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Exclusive EdibleAustin.com Content Visit our website today for a list of farmers markets and farm stands, where to find us, locally sourcing restaurants and more!

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spotlight on LOCAL

Connecting With Our Roots

by BECCA MONTJOY, Sustainable Food Center

G

race Rivera sits behind a table stacked full of vegetable seeds and smiles brightly as a group of young children and their

teachers approach.

“Cauliflower is one of my favorite vegetables!” one youngster shouts.

“Are you going to take them home?” Rivera asks, referring to seeds the kids have gathered.

“Nope! We are going to take them back there and plant them now,” another says, proudly pointing to their plot in the community garden behind Rivera.

This is a typical scene at Sustainable Food Center’s (SFC) Spread the Harvest biannual Resource Giveaway Day, an event that Rivera volunteers at regularly. Hosted at New Day Community Garden in East Austin, the Re-

After getting involved with SFC and learning so much about or-

source Giveaway Day provides school, community and low-income

ganic food gardening and healthy cooking, Rivera has seen her

gardeners with free seeds, plants, compost and organic fertilizer to

blood sugar levels drop and overall health improve. “Now I use a

start their gardens each season.

lot less salt. I think about it when I add meat to something. I think

A Houston native, Rivera came to Austin in 2005 and got involved

about all the different ingredients.”

with SFC by taking a free six-week class through its cooking and

But it’s the connections she makes that inspire her to stay in-

nutrition education program, The Happy Kitchen/La Cocina

volved in this work. She volunteers because of the interactions

Alegre®. Since then, she has taken 32 more cooking and gardening

she has with interesting and diverse people. She takes classes

classes, volunteered at multiple events and participated in Farm to

to continue her pursuit of lifelong learning and she teaches to

Work, SFC’s program that connects local farmers with employees

pass her knowledge down to future generations. “I don’t have

at partner worksites. Now a trained facilitator at The Happy Kitch-

access to my mom anymore, but I can go and take a tamale

en/La Cocina Alegre, Rivera teaches the very cooking class she

class and relive all that and bring home some awesome-tasting

first participated in over a decade ago.

tamales.”

“My mom was a gardener,” she recounts. “It may be the real, se-

When asked what she would like to share with others, Rivera had

cret reason I got involved [with SFC]. Every time I get out in the

this to say: “If you didn’t have the experience [I had] growing up,

garden, I really reconnect with her. In the Hispanic culture, food is

make that experience for your kids. It’s highly important, I think,

love! That memory of being out there with her and then bringing

for kids to know where their food is coming from.”

[the food] in and cooking it for my family, it’s precious. I just wish everybody had that experience.”

48 / EdibleAustin.com

For more information, visit sustainablefoodcenter.org

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