Two Hives Honey / Texas Mesquite / Olive Trees / Mourvèdre No. 63 March/April 2019
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CONTENTS R EGUL A R S
07 Eat Drink Local 08 What’s on Our Counter 10 N otable Edibles
16
24
STRANGE MAGIC
TWO HIVES HONEY
Working to keep up with demand for their snackable crackers.
Connecting Austinites to honey straight from their neighborhood.
29
46
TRUE TASTE OF TEXAS
DEEP RED MOURVÈDRE
Reviving this long-lost ingredient abundant in Central Texas.
A deep dive into this grape varietal and the winemakers making it a favorite.
Water Forward Plan, Little Free Pantry.
14 W hat’s in Season 20 E dible DIY Buzzworthy Bungalows.
36 E dible Endeavor CBD Explained.
40 S potlight on Local Home Growers Give Back.
42 E dible Gardens Olive Trees.
50 E dible Ink Eat Your Flippin' Pancakes.
On the Cover
Two Hives Honey / Texas Mesquite / Olive Trees / Mourvèdre No. 63 March/April 2019
Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season
Honeycomb in its frame from Two Hives Honey (page 24). Photography by Melanie Grizzel.
EdibleAustin.com / 5
PUBLISHER’S note
Together
F
arm-to-table, locally sourced, farm fresh, etc. — these are words we see so often in
PUBLISHER
food and restaurant marketing these days.
Jenna Northcutt
In fact, these phrases almost don’t feel meaningful anymore because they’re used so frequently. Fortunately, there is still a way to sort through this jum-
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
ble of food buzzwords. There are an abundance of
Dawn Weston
places in Austin that really put forth a great effort to be mindful of their sourcing, to support our local farmers and ranchers and to do what they feel is right by giving back to the Central Texas economy — to find them, all you need to
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Darby Kendall
do is ask. As these phrases pop up around town, don't be afraid to inquire about sourcing. If an
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
establishment is going out of its way to support our hardworking farmers and ranch-
Sarah Weber
ers, it's also usually the place that’s going to appreciate talking to customers about the locally made items that were just picked up, or recalling recent conversations with local farmers.
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella
The phrase "We're all in this together" has never rang truer to me than recently. We are here to help support our local businesses and see them succeed, and we know that our readers and those local businesses will be there to support us as well. So let's all take care of each other. If your garden is growing abundantly this year, consider donating some of those fresh fruits and vegetables to your local food pantry (page 40). Also, if you have native plants growing for those butterflies and bees to
Dena Garcia Kathleen Brady Stimpert
DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish
snack on, consider making or installing a native bee home as well (page 20). Take a look at What's in Season during March and April so you know what to expect at the farmers markets (page 14). We've taken a deeper dive into a grape varietal that withstands the Texas climate and has many local winemakers experimenting with
CONTACT US 1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702
new styles (page 46). We're also featuring a great story about a local bread maker
512-441-3971
whose enthusiasm for reviving an old ingredient has inspired local chefs and arti-
info@edibleaustin.com
sans, and will hopefully inspire you, too (page 29).
edibleaustin.com
Cheers to supporting one another!
Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.
6 / EdibleAustin.com
Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2019. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
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W H AT ’ S
ON OUR
COUNTER by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT
8 / EdibleAustin.com
Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.
JULIE MYRTILLE BAKERY French pastry chef Julie Myrtille moved from Paris to Austin in 2016, and in the years since, she has amassed a wide swath of fans for her French pâtisserie booth at farmers markets. Myrtille cooks and creates a wide variety of gourmet foods and treats, including croissants, madeleines, preserves, cannelés and a delicious sea salt caramel spread. These beautifully packaged, locally sourced treats make the perfect gifts, for your friends or yourself. You can order Myrtille’s goodies online or find them at Texas Farmers Market at Lakeline and Mueller and at SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown. 512-983-2641 juliemyrtille.us
TEXAS COFFEE TRADERS Artisan roaster Texas Coffee Traders has over 100 coffees for sale at their storefront in East Austin, but there’s one in particular that we just adore: their Café Monteverde. Texas Coffee Traders co-founder RC Beall first visited the Costa Rican farm where the coffee is grown in 1989, and he established a direct, fair trade relationship with the growers. Today, RC and his partner, Beth, are co-owners of the farm. Café Monteverde coffee is available in four different roasts and processes, so there is a coffee style for every taste preference. Not sure which one you’d prefer? Visit their store to taste the coffee yourself! 512-476-2279; 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com
STILL AUSTIN WHISKEY CO. This local distillery makes more than just whiskey! Along with its three whiskey varieties, Still Austin Whiskey Co. also offers Texas Rye Gin, made from scratch and copperpot distilled at their distillery and tasting room in South Austin. To give the gin its signature floral flavor, the spirit is distilled with juniper berries, coriander seeds, citrus peels, elderflowers and allspice. The base of rye grains is grown by Texan farmers, making it a truly Texas-style gin. Find their spirits at the distillery and at liquor stores around Austin. 512-276-2700; 440 St. Elmo Rd., Ste. F stillaustin.com
ANIMAL FARM There’s something exceptionally satisfying about knowing the vase of flowers gracing your table is not only beautiful to look at but was locally grown as well. Located between Austin and Houston, Animal Farm grows both produce and flowers to sell at markets in both cities. We’ve had flowers from Animal Farm in a vase for two weeks, and they look as stunning as the day we got them! Their bouquets are always seasonal, and they grow a variety of flowers ranging from poppies to pansies. Find them at the SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown and at Texas Farmers Market at Lakeline. 979-992-3038; 16723 Sycamore Rd., Cat Spring animalfarmcenter.com EdibleAustin.com EdibleAustin.com / 9/ 9
notable EDIBLES
Looking Forward by DARBY KENDALL
A
sk almost any Austinite about the local weather between
particular, a lot of water gets used in the kitchen … If you’re behind a
2008 and 2016, and they’ll reminisce about the historic
bar, if you’re a barista in a coffee shop, you’re just constantly running
drought, when the lakes were drastically low and height-
that faucet so you can clean. Maybe there’s a more efficient way to
ened water restrictions were in place. Conversely, those of us who experienced last year’s heavy rains and flooding, and the subsequent boil-water notice, will not soon forget that, either.
do things; there’s more efficient equipment that could be used.” The plan was passed by Austin City Council in November of last year, but it will be updated every five years as the city gathers more data
Though these intense weather events still seem somewhat irreg-
on climate change, population growth and conservation methods.
ular, climate scientists project that Central Texas will see more
Although the plan’s passage was coincidentally timed soon after the
frequent, longer periods of drought punctuated with periodic
boil-water notice, it was in development for over three years prior.
heavy rains. To help our city adapt to the changing climate and ever-growing population, Austin Water has put together a comprehensive 100-year plan, called Water Forward, which incorporates a variety of water-saving methods to keep Austin’s water supply safe. “Water is a shared resource; it provides so many benefits for our community beyond just potable drinking water,” says Marisa Flores-Gonzalez, project manager for the Water Forward plan. “We developed a plan to increase our community’s resilience, in terms of water supply, for a range of future potential climate conditions.”
“Hopefully, the boil water notice was a wake-up call for some people,” Flores-Gonzalez says. “There are a lot of little ways that people could help encourage conservation and efficiency … We have great incentive programs related to changing landscapes out, doing rainwater harvesting and using efficient fixtures.” Because the plan is a living document, as the steps to implementation progress, the folks at Water Forward will continue to reach out to the community about the proposed changes. “We still have to develop the specific ordinance language, do public outreach and get public input
One key recommendation in the Water Forward plan is to update
on those various ordinances,” Flores-Gonzalez says. “There are a lot
all of the city’s water meters over the next five to seven years and
of steps and still a lot of opportunity for public engagement.”
replace them with smart meters, which provide more detailed information about a home or business’ water use. “They allow someone to see and really understand how much water they’re using on a
For more information on the Water Forward plan and the city’s water incentive programs, visit austintexas.gov
daily basis,” Flores-Gonzalez says. “For the restaurant industry in
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notable EDIBLES
Community Cupboards by DARBY KENDALL
W
hen Jessica McClard created the first Little Free Pantry in 2016, inspired by the Little Free Libraries she would see in her hometown of Fayetteville, Arkansas, she
didn’t anticipate how quickly the movement would take off. “I think it was about four years ago that the first Little Free Library popped up in my home community … a lot of the Little Free Libraries even look like kitchen cabinets,” McClard says. “From there, it was just pretty obvious what I was going to do with it.” There are now more than 450 varieties of the Little Free Pantries recorded nationwide, with five locations in Austin. The Little Free Pantry operates in the same well-known “take what you need, leave what you can” model of the libraries, with the main difference being that rather than sharing books, these pantries exist to provide free, easily accessed food to the surrounding community. “This concept is just free for anybody to implement in whatever way they choose,” says McClard. “At first I saw this with the Blessing Boxes; now there are Red Door Food Pantries, Micro Pantries; these go by a ton of different names.” One such variation is located at the Central Christian Church on West 12th Street and Guadalupe. Their “Petite Pantry,” set up in May 2018, was the first branch of the Little Free Pantry in Austin. Executive Pastor Heidi Bounds implemented the project with the help of Jennifer Pugh, a local champion for the pantries. “As a pastor, you want to be able to help people when they come to your door,” Bounds says. “This has no restrictions. It’s for the
located at public establishments, Lorraine says there is enough foot traffic by her home to keep it both stocked and utilized. “There are days when it’s filled with baked goods. Today it’s filled with clothing and baby items,” she says. “It’s just really cool to watch … I guess it’s like my way of paying it forward. And the neighborhood loves it. You know, everybody’s always donating.” Though the pantries aren’t large enough to come close to replacing institutions like food banks, they are a fun, unique way to serve both neighbors and those in need.
single mom; it’s for the college kid; it’s for the homeless man; it’s
“I think it’s a really, really good entry point to service because it
for the husband who just lost his job and who just needs some
doesn’t require a lot of time or a lot of money, which opens it up
beans and rice … It doesn’t put anybody in a box as far as who
to all sorts of people who maybe haven’t engaged with commu-
needs help. And that’s what I really, really love about it.”
nity service before,” McClard says. “In my wildest dreams, this
Jenny Lorraine, another local owner of a Little Free Pantry, keeps hers in the front yard of her home. Though most pantries are 12 / EdibleAustin.com
would be something that anyone could feel like they could use.” For more information, visit littlefreepantry.org and petitepantry.org
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W H AT ’ S
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SEASON Poteet Punch by DAVID ALAN
MAKES 1 COCKTAIL
3
ripe strawberries
½ oz. simple syrup 1½ oz. local vodka ¾ oz. Paula’s Texas Lemon ¼ oz. fresh lime juice In the bottom of a mixing glass, muddle strawberries and simple syrup. Add the rest of the ingredients and ice. Shake vigorously for 20 to 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or serve over ice in a small rocks glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
photography by CAROLE TOPALIAN 14 / EdibleAustin.com
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edible ENDEAVOR
Strange Magic by AMY MCCULLOUGH / photography by ANDY SAMS
J
en Holmer El-Azzi lights up when talking about sour-
One thing that makes their crackers so tasty is the weeklong, cold
dough. “It’s like maaa-gic,” she says slowly and playfully
fermentation process. The longer something ferments, the more
with a big smile — like a good witch casting a spell.
complex and interesting it tastes. “Bread tastes better the longer
If you ask her husband and partner in The Sourdough Project, Danny El-Azzi, Jen’s not just good, she’s the best. “Nobody is as good as you are,” he says to her with conviction. What she’s good at is multifarious: growing and feeding her wild-yeast starter, turning that into sourdough with just the right consistency, roll-
you ferment it,” says Jen. So, she thought, why not do that with cracker dough? Another winning factor is the dough’s short list of high-quality ingredients: flour from Texas-grown, stone-milled heirloom wheat, salt, water and olive oil (which makes them vegan). They’re really that simple.
ing the dough into large, thin sheets so often that her forearms
Jen’s favorite flavor is the sea salt. She compares them to Cheez-
ache and cutting the result into cute, crimped-edge squares that
Its and says they’re a hit with families. Kids are into the satisfying
once baked are, well, “addictive” is putting it lightly.
crunch, and parents feel good serving a snack with so few ingre-
The label on their handmade crackers, which Jen charismatically
dients, all of which are recognizable.
hustles at farmers markets across Austin, says “snackable” right on
An Ohio native, Jen had culinary experience from working at
it; consider yourself forewarned. When customers ask how long the
Central Market and already loved talking to and teaching peo-
crackers will keep, she and Danny, who launched their company in
ple about food before she got into cracker creation. Danny, who
April 2018, try not to chuckle. It’s a “don’t kid yourself” situation. In
grew up in Austin, calls his contribution the “dirty work.” He pays
other words, buyers are liable to consume all of their crunchy, savory
the bills, orders and picks up ingredients, fixes the tent when it
treats long before their shelf life is up. Anyone who’s tried The Sour-
breaks at the market, and handles anything else that comes up.
dough Project’s crackers, which come in original (sea salt), every-
And he’s just as busy as Jen.
thing, sun-dried tomato and herb, and za’atar (a Middle Eastern spice mixture inspired by Danny’s Lebanese heritage), is in on the joke.
In fact, things have moved so fast they can barely keep up with cracker demand. In under a year, they’ve gone from running a
The couple has been “playing around” with sourdough — tech-
tiny cottage industry business to getting a food manufacturing
nically, bread leavened with wild yeast — for years. But it was
license and moving into a commercial kitchen; they’ve done
Jen’s gluten sensitivity that brought it to the fore. “Sourdough cul-
demonstrations at fermentation festivals, added part-time staff
ture eats the proteins in gluten and reduces it to an amount that
and practically had to fend off eager distributors. In one way or
doesn’t cause inflammation,” Jen explains.
another, “it is crackers all the time,” says Jen.
“It was your love for pizza in part,” adds Danny, referring to a
But the “project” in their company name is an indication of their
devotion that got them making sourdough pizza crust. It was in
desire to do more. The couple does occasionally sell sourdough
crackers, however, that they realized they had something special
spinoff items, including donut holes, granola bars, chocolate
enough to sell.
snack cakes and zucchini bread. They say their dream is to open
EdibleAustin.com / 17
learn alongside austin experts
Join us Buy a la Carte or join us for all Wine
with Wine for the People in April
a bakery cooperative. “To be able to share [space and equipment] and have everybody do their strong suit would be awesome,” Jen says. The El-Azzis often return to the idea of community. “Anybody
Cheese with Antonelli’s Cheese Shop in May
could do this if they wanted to,” says Danny. The scary part is taking the leap, something they credit their fellow farmers market vendors with inspiring them to do. Danny may be right, but there’s no denying that he and Jen have an ideal combination of skills and a unique passion for sourdough’s strange magic.
more coming soon
It doesn’t take long at their Texas Farmers Market at Mueller booth to see that sorcery in action. A couple walks up, takes samples, crunches, swallows. Then one of them asks, “What’s making these so tangy? Almost like sour cream … or cheese …” They trail
tickets at edibleAustin.com/edl 18 / EdibleAustin.com
off in wonder, unable to find the right descriptor. Jen smiles and says, “That’s the sourdough.” She might as well have called it magic. For more information, visit sourdoughproject.org
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Vote Now! Celebrate your community and vote for your food heroes now!
Visit edibleaustin.com/hero to vote for the following categories.
Voting Deadline is March 20, 2019
Chef / Restaurant Food Shop Farm / Farmer Food Artisan Beverage Artisan Nonprofit Organization EdibleAustin.com / 19
edible DIY
Buzzworthy Bungalows by DARBY KENDALL photography by POLLYDOT AND FRANCK BARSKE
H
oney bees are, no doubt, an essential part of our food system, but we can’t give them all the glory for pollinating our plants. Long before these bees were brought
over by European settlers in the 17th century, native bees were keeping the plants of North America pollinated. Today, North America has 4,000 bee species that are native to the continent. They come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and colors — and they are indispensable, as they pollinate approximately 75 percent of the fruits, vegetables and nuts grown in this country. “They are far more important in a lot of ways than the honey bees,” says Tara Chapman, owner of local honey company Two Hives Honey. “There are so many other bees that call Texas home that are important for our backyard gardens, and certainly our native plants.” Some of the best-known native bees include bumble, mason, leafcutter and carpenter, but the varieties extend well beyond those four. The majority of native bee species fall into the category of solitary bees, meaning that they do not live in colonies as honey bees do. Rather, each female is an individual queen,
20 / EdibleAustin.com
BUDA,TX
EST. 2010
“
DOW N TOW N BU DA
FARME RS M ARKE T It’s remarkably
simple, making your own bee nest. And it’s a very satisfying thing as well.
”
foraging her own food, building her own nest and rearing her brood alone. Because they have no hives to defend, they are quite docile and are unlikely to sting anyone. According to Matthew Shepherd, an expert on pollinators at the Xerces Society (a nonprofit environmental organization dedicated to conserving invertebrates), about 30 percent of native bees, including mason bees and leafcutter bees, are solitary and nest in small, premade tunnels. Perhaps you’ve seen man-made varieties of these tunneled bee homes around Austin. Two Hives Honey sells a version using natural reeds to provide housing for the bees, while many gardeners will make their own bee habitats by drilling holes into blocks of wood.
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“It’s remarkably simple, making your own bee nest. And it’s a very satisfying thing as well,” says Shepherd. “Once people have the houses in their yard, they do gradually get drawn in and find it more and more fascinating to watch the bees. You can see [the bees] flying past with their nesting materials, coming in and out of the holes.” Hanging up a native bee house is a direct way to benefit these essential insects. Whether you make your own from scratch, remodel a preexisting structure with paper tubes and reeds or simply purchase one, providing pollinators with housing will also benefit your and your neighbors’ gardens and flowering plants. If you are interested in getting a native bee home, be sure to keep a variety of nectar-rich and native plants, such as salvias,
Located in Historic Downtown Buda 308 South Main Street At Buda Mill & Grain Co.
EdibleAustin.com / 21
edible DIY
Bee Houses 101 Interested in getting your own bee house? Follow these tips to attract native bees and help them thrive in their new home! • Place the house three to six feet off the ground, on a stable surface like the side of your home or a fence post. • The house must get morning sun, so have it face the south or the east. • The best time to place the house outside is in the early spring, when many native bees become active. • Any bee house hung on an uncovered surface needs a roof to protect it from the rain. • Each nesting hole should be between five and seven inches deep. • Vary the diameter of nesting holes so a wider variety of native bees can nest. Keep the holes between ³/³² and ³/8 inches in diameter. • To prevent the spread of disease and mites, each
Turk’s cap, blackfoot daisies and coneflowers, in your yard for the
house should have no more than 20 nesting
bees to collect pollen from. Leafcutter bees are attracted to roses,
holes.
as they use the leaves to create their tunnel system. Though native bees don’t produce honey, they still require pollen to feed their
• Once the bees have emerged, clean out drilled holes or replace the tubes yearly to keep the house healthy.
young. “We have a really solid body of evidence that demonstrates that native plants do support greater diversity and a greater abun-
• If predators like birds and wasps become a prob-
dance of native bees,” Shepherd says. “The other thing that seems
lem, place chicken wire over the front of the
like a no-brainer is that you should try to avoid using pesticides,
house. • To help the bees easily recognize their own nest,
particularly insecticides, because they are inherently harmful to insects.”
slightly vary the length of each tube or paint the
If installing a bee house is not feasible, there are other ways you
face of each hole a different color. Feel free to get
can support our native bee population. Leave small, cleared-off
creative with it — bees are particularly attracted
patches of dirt and small piles of brush scattered around your
to pastel colors! For more information on native bees, visit xerces.org
22 / EdibleAustin.com
yard for the 70 percent of native bees who nest in the ground. And — just to drive it home one last time — gardening with native plants is always beneficial to the bees.
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FARMERS diary
Two Hives Honey by VIVÉ GRIFFITH / photography by MELANIE GRIZZEL
T
ara Chapman didn’t expect to fall in love with bees. She
the end of 2015 and caught the eye of John Antonelli of Antonelli’s
took her first beekeeping class on a whim, seeking a bit
Cheese Shop. He walked up to Chapman at the awards ceremony,
of work-life balance. Instead of just an inspiring hobby,
asking to purchase her honey. That moment changed everything.
beekeeping quickly became her obsession, and then her job. She went on to launch Two Hives Honey in 2015.
“I was instantly thrust into a very exclusive club,” she says. “Then it was up to me. I could fail, or I could rise.” The next spring, she
When we meet on a December morning to visit some of her hives,
went straight to Antonelli’s with her harvest. Two Hives is still
it’s clear that Chapman is still smitten with bees. Wearing overalls
the shop’s singular local honey source.
and yellow rubber boots, she arrives in a pickup truck crammed full of beekeeping equipment. A small bee tattoo graces her inner wrist.
Two Hives specializes in comb honey, cut directly from the hive and sold in squares or chunks. It’s the rawest, purest honey you can find. Unlike some other apiaries that add wax or other struc-
She’s amazed at the journey bees have taken her on. After spend-
tures, Two Hives starts with empty frames in its hives. This means
ing years working with the CIA traveling in and out of the Middle
that the bees create everything you see in the comb. The beeswax
East, Chapman returned to her native Texas. Work had her shut-
is thin — only seven tenths of a millimeter — and gives the honey
tling between Austin, Washington, D.C. and Afghanistan, where
a texture that liquid honey doesn’t have.
she would spend anywhere from two weeks to two months.
“When you look at a jar of honey, it’s easy to imagine it was made
Enamored with bees and eager to help the honey bee population
in a factory,” Chapman says. “But when you look at a box of comb
thrive, she soon quit her job and moved out to tiny Navasota, Tex-
honey, it’s easier to think, ‘Oh, an insect made that.’ You can make
as, to help breed bees at BeeWeaver Apiaries. She also started her
the connection. It’s such a beautiful product.”
own hives. She was fascinated by the nuances of the first honey she harvested, how it varied in flavor and color based on the season and available nectar sources.
The comb honey is packaged in clear boxes, labeled with its neighborhood of origin and sold at the Two Hives Honey store in Southeast Austin. It’s featured in restaurants like Emmer and Rye,
“When I saw that my spring harvest was totally different from my
served atop a black garlic caramel ice cream. Chapman suggests
fall harvest — different flowers make different honey — I thought,
highlighting the comb by placing a slice onto a baked sweet pota-
‘Wouldn’t it be cool if every neighborhood in Austin had its own
to with a little cinnamon or spreading it on toasted bread.
honey?’’’
But comb honey is just the beginning at Two Hives. “We are never
This question became the impetus for Two Hives. Chapman in-
going to be just a honey company, mostly by design,” Chapman
stalled micro-apiaries in backyards across Austin in a program
says. Central Texas has limited production possibilities, with only
that trained new beekeepers while she collected their hyper-local
two honey harvests a year. And Chapman loves to share the com-
honey for the hives' first 18 months.
plex world of bees with others.
Still, Chapman admits she was more hobbyist than expert in those
Two Hives runs popular hive tours, introducing children, adults
early days. Then she won an Austin Food & Wine Alliance grant at
and corporate teams to the magic and challenges of beekeeping.
EdibleAustin.com / 25
FARMERS diary
People get to gear up, hold frames thrumming with bees and taste
hives, pointing out the queen on one frame and a surprise winter
honey straight from the hive. Chapman also developed an inten-
drone on another, as she closely monitors the activity in each hive.
sive beekeeping apprenticeship program, whose cohorts meet for six Saturdays over half a year to do a deep dive into the intricacies of keeping hives. Back at the store, Two Hives sells equipment as well as curated, bee-related gifts from local female entrepreneurs. While she’s now overseeing a multidimensional business — and work-life balance remains elusive — the love that drew Chapman to bees is still strong. She moves gently, with ungloved hands, in the
26 / EdibleAustin.com
Back at the truck, when a bee lands on her wrist, she stops midsentence. “Look at that proboscis,” she says, pointing with wonder at the bee’s long tongue, which is siphoning honey from her hand. Soon bees are buzzing all around us, but Chapman just smiles. “All right, ladies,” she says to them, “it’s time to go back home.” For more information, visit twohiveshoney.com
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COOKING FRESH
A TRUE TASTE
OF TEXAS by RACHEL JOHNSON
photography by RACHEL JOHNSON
AND NATHAN BEELS
EdibleAustin.com / 29
cooking FRESH
I
f there’s one flavor that truly embodies the spirit of Texas, mesquite just might be it. A native, drought-resistant crop, the mesquite tree serves as a source of firewood, smoking
chips, pods and beans that have taken on new, innovative culinary applications. When roasted, mesquite’s nutty flavor is akin to wheat or oat bran, with a distinct sweetness and uniquely smooth texture that strike quite a chord with local culinary talent. Mesquite is currently experiencing a newfound surge in popularity, appearing on menus across Central Texas. The rise of mesquite as an ingredient in Austin is credited to culinary innovator Sandeep Gyawali of Miche Bread. After winning an Austin Food & Wine Culinary Alliance Grant in 2016, Gyawali kickstarted the mesquite boom with the purchase of a hammer mill, located at Barton Springs Mill in Dripping Springs. By pulverizing whole, roasted mesquite pods into flour for a variety of culinary applications, Gyawali incorporates this native ingredient into many of his breads, cookies and sweets for Miche — as well as novel concoctions like mesquite butter. “The beguiling flavor of mesquite shines through within a rich base of butter; the effect is visceral. People's eyes light up, and they smile like a child experiencing something magnificent for the first time,” describes Gyawali. The enthusiasm for mesquite caught fire within Austin’s restaurant scene around the same time, appearing on menus at The Brewer’s Table, Lick Honest Ice Creams and many more, and it even inspired a festival in the summer of 2018. Gyawali joined forces with the Desert Door Sotol Distillery and Two Hives Honey to host the Mesquiteers Fest, aimed toward “working with members of [the] community to harvest these delicious beans, process them in myriad ways and develop novel products that highlight their uniquely complex flavor.” The lineup featured several Aus-
infused maple syrup for banana pancakes to their popular Bal-
tin-based food vendors showcasing unique uses of mesquite in
tic Hash beer. “To me, the flavor of mesquite is similar to cara-
their wares, mesquite-smoked nuts from Buster’s Smoked Pecans
mel, with notes of cinnamon and vanilla,” says Hunter. “It has
to Two Hives Honey harvested from bees found in mesquite-dense
an earthy nuttiness that evokes memories of holiday meals and
regions to SRSLY Chocolate bars dotted with roasted mesquite
smoldering campfires.”
beans.
With the growing accessibility of mesquite as an ingredient comes
Acclaimed East Austin restaurant The Brewer’s Table showcases
the task of introducing its unique heritage and flavor profile to
mesquite by incorporating it across their food and beverage
the public. Lick Honest Ice Creams incorporates mesquite flour
menus. Driven by their commitment to zero-waste, chef Zach
and pods into the cookie crumble and base flavor for its Roasted
Hunter and head brewer Drew Durish have developed innova-
Mesquite Bean Cookie ice cream. “Ice cream can be a non-intimi-
tive ways to use every last bit of their house-roasted beans, from
dating vehicle for almost any ingredient you can imagine — it can
30 / EdibleAustin.com
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be sweet, and it can be savory,” says Anthony Sobotik, co-founder and chef of Lick Honest Ice Creams. “We are able tell the story of the season and introduce people to things [that] they may never have heard of before just by letting them try our ice cream and hear the story behind every flavor.” Like any other trend, an understanding of mesquite’s complicated history only enhances its allure. “Mesquite is Texas' native food source — one which was of great historical importance, but has since been mostly forgotten about,” explains Gyawali. “The beans were the primary food for the indigenous peoples of this area, and the tree was vitally important to all aspects of their lives, including medicine, property boundaries and spirituality.” While mesquite trees are native to Texas, they are also considered by some to be a troublesome, weed-like species that requires careful regulation, and that regulation is aided by its newfound culinary applications. “By finding new and interesting uses for each part of this species, we as chefs and diners are able to help control its rapid growth,” says Hunter. “The locavore movement has led to chefs and home cooks shortening their reach when searching for new ingredients, and mesquite is well within reach for us Texans. Most of us are familiar with using mesquite wood for smoking food, but surprisingly many are still unaware of how amazing the fruit, or bean, of the mesquite tree tastes.” Mesquite’s bright future in Austin will only continue to evolve, as expanded accessibility and growing enthusiasm for its unique flavor profile have put it on the fast track to become a new staple of our culinary culture. “In a time where we're paying more attention to eating locally and sustainably, mesquite is an obvious choice for the Austin food scene to promote,” says Gyawali. “While most cities' cultures are beginning to look like replicas of each other, mesquite gives us that sense of a unique local identity.”
EdibleAustin.com / 31
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Private dining room available
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ilikelick.com
Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 info@littlechef.com www.littlechef.com
WWW.CASAGARCIAS.COM AUSTIN
1901 W. William Cannon 512-441-9504 32 / EdibleAustin.com
PFLUGERVILLE 15803 Windermere 512-989-2524
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cooking FRESH
Mesquite Boule
courtesy of SANDEEP GYAWALI, MICHE BREAD
MAKES 1 LARGE ROUND LOAF
¼ c. mesquite flour 1 c.
whole wheat flour
2 ¾ c. bread flour 1 ½ c. water at room temp. ½ c. sourdough culture (active) ½ t. active dry yeast 2 t. salt, finely ground Mix everything together in a large bowl by hand until all the flour is wet. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes. Do a series of stretches and folds in the bowl. Pull an edge up and over onto the center of the dough. Rotate the bowl ¹/6 of a turn and repeat until you go all the way around. Use wet hands to prevent sticking. Repeat every 30 minutes for 2 hours, for a total of 4 sets of folds. The dough should have developed enough gluten to be stretched thin. If not, give it another set of folds after 30 minutes. Once you start to see signs of fermentation, such as bubbles, and the dough starting to get a little poofy, place the dough in the fridge for 8–16 hours. Keep it covered tightly with a lid or shower cap. Remove the dough from the fridge. If it hasn’t risen much, leave it out at room temperature until it has increased 30–50 percent in volume. Dust the top of the dough, and scrape it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Shape it lightly into a loose round. Cover with a bowl, damp towel or oiled plastic film, and let relax for 1 hour. When ready to shape, it should be inflated a bit but more relaxed. When the dough is ready, shape it into a ball and proof it in a wellfloured proofing basket, or in a large bowl lined with well-floured thin towel. Using rice flour helps prevent it from sticking to the basket, or you can be generous with white flour. Cover the dough with another towel and let rise in a warm place for 1–3 hours. Preheat oven, with a dutch oven inside, to 500° (about 1 hour). When the dough is properly proofed, it should feel gassy and light
minutes. Remove the lid, and bake another 10 minutes. Check that
and jiggle like a bowl of Jello. If you poke it with a finger, the
the bottom isn’t getting too dark.
dough should slowly spring back and almost fill in the depression.
Remove the dough from the pot, place it on a cool baking sheet
With the dough still in the basket, dust the top with flour to dry
and bake another 10–20 minutes until it’s very dark in some areas.
out any moist parts — this will become the bottom of the loaf and
The loaf should feel light and sound hollow when the bottom is
will keep it from sticking to the pot. Carefully invert the dough
tapped. The crust should feel a bit hard (it will feel more thin and
into the hot pot, cut a square on the surface with a razor blade or
crisp as it cools), and the color should be a dark brown.
sharp knife, and cover with the hot lid. Place into the oven. Immediately turn down the oven to 450°, and bake covered for 30
Remove the bread, and place on a wire rack until it is completely cool, about 2 hours. EdibleAustin.com / 33
cooking FRESH
Mesquite Pecan Pie courtesy of SANDEEP GYAWALI, MICHE BREAD
MAKES 2 PIES
Use the recipe below, or replace 15 percent of the flour in your favorite crust with mesquite flour. The crust can be prepared and blind baked a day in advance. For the pie crusts: 1 ²/³ c. all-purpose flour, divided 1 c. whole wheat flour (I use Rouge de Bordeaux from Barton Springs Mill. This can also be substituted with all-purpose flour.) ¹⁄³ c. mesquite flour
1 t.
salt, finely ground
4 t.
sugar
2 ½ sticks of butter, cold and cut into ¼-inch chunks ¹⁄³–½ c. water, ice cold (use more if needed)
Place ²/³ cup of the all-purpose flour, the whole wheat flour, mesquite flour, salt and sugar into a food processor, and pulse several times to combine. Add butter evenly over the dry inPhoto courtesy of Miche Bread
gredients, and pulse until the dough collects in clumps, about 25–40 short pulses. Use a spatula to spread the dough evenly around the bowl of food processor. Sprinkle in the remaining cup of all-purpose flour, and pulse until dough is barely broken up, about 5 short pulses. Transfer to a large bowl. Sprinkle with cold water, fold and press
For the filling: ¹⁄³ c. all-purpose flour
2 c. light brown sugar, packed
with a rubber spatula until it comes together into a ball.
¾ t. salt, finely ground ¹⁄³ c. mesquite flour
Divide the dough into 2 equal portions. Form each portion
1 T.
into a 4-inch disk. Wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for 2 hours. Roll each disk into a 12–13-inch round. Place in a 9–10-inch pie tin, and cut a 1-inch overhang with scissors. Fold the overhang underneath to form a rolled edge, and crimp as desired. Refrigerate for at least an hour before proceeding. I recommend blind baking the crust so it holds up to the filling. Line the crust with a sheet of foil large enough to form a skirt over the edges to prevent burning. Weigh down the foil with pie weights or salt or sugar filled to the brim and packed against the crust. Preheat oven to 350°, and blind bake the crust for 1 hour.
mesquite extract or vanilla extract
½ c. heavy cream 5
large eggs, beaten
2 t.
apple cider vinegar
1 ½
sticks butter, melted
2 c.
pecans, toasted and chopped finely
2 c.
pecan halves, toasted and reserved for topping
Preheat oven to 375°. Combine all ingredients except pecan halves in a three-quart bowl. Mix well with a whisk. Divide equally into the 2 prebaked pie shells (you might have extra filling). Top with the pecan halves, being as decorative as you'd like. Use a 3-inchwide strip of aluminum foil to make a shield to cover the exposed pie crust rim. Bake for 40–45 minutes or until the filling no longer
Carefully remove the foil and weights, and let the crust cool
wobbles in the center when jiggled. Let cool for several hours to
before proceeding.
set properly before slicing.
34 / EdibleAustin.com
new! weekly, à la carte menu • family owned
Mesquite Butter
courtesy of ZACH HUNTER, THE BREWER’S TABLE
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
When available, it’s best to use fresh mesquite flour from Barton Springs Mill and Miche Bread for this recipe. 1
stick of butter, softened
2 ½ t. mesquite flour
1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com
Beat the butter and mesquite flour in a bowl together with an electric mixer until creamy and smooth. Keep the
@gati.icecream
butter in a covered bowl or plastic container, and store in the refrigerator.
Still interested in learning more? Find mesquite products and learn more about this movement by following @txmesquite on Instagram.
COCONUT MILK ICE CREAM TRUCK
by 1512 HOLLY STREET, 78702
STORE FRONT OPENS SPRING 2019 EdibleAustin.com / 35
edible ENDEAVOR
healing benefits. Derived from the sister plant of marijuana, CBD oil often comes with a stigma, a lingering judgment based on the substance’s origin. But recent legislation has opened up this new industry to widespread growth, and now it’s time to approach CBD with an open mind. CBD, or Cannabidiol, is a hemp-derived oil that contains less than 0.3 percent THC and does not get you high. CBD products are sold legally in Austin today as a result of the 2014 Farm Bill that enabled farmers in select states to cultivate CBD from industrial hemp. Most CBD sold in the United States today comes from Kentucky or Colorado, but that is likely to change as a result of the 2018 Farm Bill, which made it legal to grow industrial hemp and cultivate CBD anywhere in the United States, including Texas. Several of Austin’s CBD pioneers are ready to lead the way in this already exploding market that’s soon to become exponentially bigger. Tucked away off Rosewood Avenue in the back of a blue bungalow is the office of Rawsome CBD. The shop’s mom-and-pop feel is so strong that customers may question whether they’re walking into an establishment or a private backyard. Inside, Rawsome staff members greet customers and take ample time to educate them on CBD, discuss the products and offer recommendations based on each customer’s ailments. The Rawsome team pride themselves on this relationship with customers. “We want to remain the neighborhood place that provides education to people
by MELISSA CLAIRE
wanting to learn more about the potential benefits of CBD,” says product director Kevin Mabrey. Their portfolio is simple. They carry four droppers of CBD-in-
A
fused MCT oil at varying strengths: Essential, Performance, Extra father receives the diagnosis that his son has Tourette
Strength and Super Concentrate. Each formula caters to individu-
syndrome two weeks before he is meant to enter kinder-
al needs, from mild pain or anxiety to insomnia, MS, cystic fibro-
garten. Afraid that his son won’t be able to have the nor-
sis, intense chronic pain and even cancer.
mal experience every parent desires for their children, the father begins to give his son small doses of CBD, having heard about the hemp-based oil’s potential effects on neurological disorders. In two days, the son’s twitches have quelled and he is able to start school with his classmates.
In the shop there is a guest book where customers have returned to relay their relief in ink, sharing their experiences and the way their lives have changed after using Rawsome’s CBD. The book broadcasts waves of relief and euphoria. “I’ve slept through the night for the first time in 11 years.” “My anxiety was lessened im-
Many people, like this local family, are turning to CBD with fer-
mediately.” “I had unbearable chronic back pain, and I can now go
vent hope that it may be the long-awaited solution for issues like
for walks without pain.”
suffering from chronic pain, anxiety, insomnia and a laundry list of conditions.
Cassidy Shea, a sales associate whose parents helped start the business, laughs as she confesses that it is hard not to call CBD
Some of the most ardent CBD skeptics are baffled by the count-
a miracle cure. But she emphasizes how each body is completely
less testimonials — like the one mentioned above — about its
unique, and therefore each person will respond differently.
36 / EdibleAustin.com
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“We all have cannabinoid receptors in our bodies. Some people may naturally produce more cannabinoids than others and can take lower doses,” she says. “Some people’s receptors are hypersensitive, feeling the effects of relief almost immediately. Others may not feel anything.” Another local purveyor of CBD-infused goods is Bee Delightful, the creator of Canna Bees honey. Co-founder Seth Nyer is quick to ease concerns about any addictive or harmful qualities CBD may possess. “In 2017, the World Health Organization deemed that CBD does not appear to have abuse potential or cause harm, so at the very least it is harmless,” he says. Bee Delightful aims to lead the path in representing CBD as a food and, pairing two missions of wellness and bee restoration, their Rescue Blend infuses pure CBD extract in raw honey sourced from their bee sanctuaries in Central Texas. Preston Day is the head chef in charge of creating their CBD-infused nourishment. To celebrate reaching their goal of rescuing one million bees in their first year, the team held a lavish dinner party where Day prepared six courses of gourmet, CBD-infused dishes, piloting a program they call Cooking with Canna Bees. Nyer explains that this is not just for show. “Our organs love raw honey, and there is an entourage effect when you pair the two together.” Honey, he claims, is as friendly as possible to our bodies, is easier for moms to give to kids and is more inconspicuous to take. “It’s as simple as a spoonful of honey.” Those desiring even more CBD knowledge can turn to Peoples Rx, the beloved local pharmacy that has been on the frontier of introducing CBD in Austin. They have a dozen different CBD products on their shelves in a range of dosages and formats, from honey, lozenges and chocolates to oils, balms and salves. The staff at Peoples Rx receive regular trainings on the products they sell, ensuring they can help each customer identify the right product. Customers can also be assured that Peoples Rx is sourcing high quality CBD. “We have undergone extensive testing and only accept companies that can provide a Certificate of Analysis detailing the amount of THC and the sourcing of their CBD,” explains Lindsey Wilder Flatt, a wellness specialist for Peoples Rx and an acupuncturist in training.
about CBD. The products sell themselves through word of mouth, with customers telling friends and family of the ways CBD has improved their lives,” says Flatt. Part of what makes CBD so appealing, beyond its low risk factor, is the immediacy with which most consumers experience its benefits. All of these providers shared stories of clients trying samples and coming back within an hour to buy in bulk, reporting that their pain had immediately lessened. But Flatt offers a caveat similar to Shea’s. “CBD does not work for everybody. There are people who it’s not ideal for,” she says. “But when it does work, it works well. Often customers have attempted multiple other solutions, and within a few weeks on CBD, they are noticing significant improvements.” Because these products are so new, there is little regulation in commercial CBD products. Without expert assistance and research, it is easy to be duped by companies with low-quality products that may be cross contaminated with heavy metals or may not contain CBD at all. This is why it is important to find a trusted provider that can show the product’s potency. Clinical research on the benefits of CBD is still in its infancy, and providers hope the 2018 Farm Bill will open the stage for more. Right now restrictions for researchers are still very rigid, with scrutiny from both the Food and Drug Administration and individual state legislatures. But with so much consumer demand and reported healing, it is only a matter of time before research is
She relays that more and more customers are coming in with a
more widespread and CBD is better understood. With the passage
basic understanding of CBD and a general excitement about it.
of the Farm Bill allowing us to grow hemp right here in Austin, a
“Conservatively, one out of five people that come in are asking
new world of healing is sure to open up.
38 / EdibleAustin.com
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spotlight on LOCAL
Home Growers Give Back by SUMAIYA MALIK / photography by CAROLE TOPALIAN
W
ith grocery stores like Whole Foods Market and
ple every year. What separates Feed the Community from most
Sprouts donating produce to Austin food pantries
others in Austin is their weekly buffet-style grocery service. In-
and setting up community gardens, one could as-
dividuals and families who have already filled out prerequisite
sume that the value of produce donations from at-home garden-
forms are welcomed into a large hall where they are given a list of
ers is diminishing. But in reality, the demand for fresh produce
available grocery items and two bags to fill with their weekly food
is on the rise in Austin’s food pantries, and individual growers
needs. They make their selections on the list and then proceed to
can give back to the community by donating their home-harvest-
a cafeteria-style room where volunteers fill their bags with the
ed fruits and vegetables to food pantries — no matter how small
items they have requested. While canned items and non-perish-
their surplus.
ables with longer shelf lives are more readily available, fresh pro-
Veronica Walker, a social worker and coordinator at the Feed the Community food pantry, explains that the pantry “started from
duce is always on every list, so it runs out fast. That’s where home gardeners and community gardens can help.
a small electrical closet … Word of mouth brought people and
Walker, who is acutely aware of the need for fresh produce, also
volunteers, and soon [the program] started getting bigger.” Now
oversees a community garden on the church’s property, which was
the food pantry, which operates as a nonprofit from inside the
set up by Sprouts Healthy Community Foundation. The garden
Gateway Church on McNeil and US-183, provides food for anyone
grows fruits and vegetables to supplement the donations to the
in need of assistance.
food pantry from other sources. A group of dedicated volunteers
Walker says that people come to their pantry every week to pick up supplies through a systematic program linked to the Central Texas Food Bank. Now the pantry is even part of Feeding America — a nationwide network of 200 food banks and 60,000 food pantries and meal programs that provide food and services to peo40 / EdibleAustin.com
work on the garden’s daily upkeep. Walker says the garden regularly supplies tomatoes, green peppers, broccoli, melons, eggplant, cabbage and other seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs. Yet there’s always room for more, and Austinites can certainly help. According to the City of Austin’s website, “Austin’s Community
scratch made no vegetable oils no refined sugar organic CATERING TO paleo gluten free vegan keto
peoplesrx.com/deli Gardens are currently producing over 100,000 pounds of fresh, local, organic produce for Austin residents every year,” and countless more Austinites have small balcony or backyard gardens that produce more than they can consume. While the value of donations from individual producers may seem minimal, Walker explains how every little bit helps. In fact, you would be surprised at how much produce one plant supplies. A single tomato plant produces, on the low end, about 15 pounds of tomatoes — about 60 fruits. Imagine how many tomatoes you could realistically use before they go bad and how much you could share, not to mention the community bonds that form when folks share their backyard produce. Walker reminisces about individuals who have not only brought various unique produce over the years, but also provided recipes to go along with their crops. “Bob wouldn’t just drop off stuff from his garden, but he would also bring recipes so people would know what to do with [his
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produce],” she says. So this spring, when you’re growing and harvesting your beets,
YOUNG COOP
cauliflower, tomatoes, turnips or whatever you choose to plant, consider sharing some of your bounty with a nearby food pantry. That fresh produce, grown with care in your garden, might not only enrich your diet, but could also satisfy hunger in other homes throughout Austin. To look for food pantries near you, please visit ampleharvest.org EdibleAustin.com / 41
edible GARDENS
OLIVE TREES
by SARAH J. NIELSEN photography by NAZAR HRABOVYI AND THE BIALONS 42 / EdibleAustin.com
I
n Homer’s The Odyssey, Odysseus and his indomitable wife, Penelope, set the modern standard for using olive trees as interior decor: the foundation of their bed was
carved into the roots of a living olive tree that had grown deep into the hillside where they built their home. And while Homer’s olive tree stood as an exquisite symbol of the couple’s deeply rooted love, if you decide to keep an olive tree in your home, I recommend keeping it in a large pot so you can move it around for optimal decor and plant health. Of course, if we’re talking about growing olive trees in containers, we know they’re not going to reach mythic proportions. But because most olives are too sensitive to frost to thrive in our region, containers are a wise approach to cultivating them here. Choosing a variety well suited to interior environments, planting it in appropriate soil and pruning it to manage growth and size make growing an olive tree indoors possible — but keeping it alive is a labor of love. No wonder Homer used one to symbolize Penelope and Odysseus’ marriage. These trees grow in rocky, dry, hot regions with mild winters. The pots they grow in must drain very efficiently, so choose one made of a natural material like terra-cotta or even wood, and be sure to add a good percentage of perlite or expanded shale to your potting soil so the roots don’t rot. Also, keep in mind that trees are not going to produce abundantly if they live inside at all times. In an ideal situation, your tree would be outside during the hot, dry season and indoors during the coldest months, with a daily minimum of six hours of direct sunlight. These containerized trees do well on patios and are commonly grown this way even in their native regions. Even restricted to containers, size can be an issue when growing trees indoors. Luckily, fruiting olive trees can be kept petite with careful pruning. Pruning is best performed at the end of winter when the tree is dormant and hasn’t yet begun to flower, so you can clearly see its frame. Trim any “suckers” growing around the base of the tree or new growths protruding from the crotches of major branches, and be sure to remove dead wood. The canopy of the tree needs light to reach into the crown for optimal olive production, and major pruning will remove up to 25 percent of growth. Curiously enough, the olive tree will respond by growing more when it is pruned heavily; perhaps there’s a
ing Ravdishes learn to grow
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best if you can look at the roots when buying a tree. They should spread out evenly and easily when you go to pot the plant, and they should not be growing out of the pot’s drainage holes. Similarly, make sure your pot has ample space for the tree you buy, and pot up appropriately as your olive tree grows so its roots have room to feed the tree. Olive trees typically require pollinating companions, and multiple varietals are usually carefully arranged in groves to provide optimal fruiting; however, the Texas-friendly “Arbequina” variety is self-pollinating. Its fruit can be used for table olives or pressed for oil, if you are so inclined. However, if you simply want the exquisite matte leaves and When you go to invest in your own olive tree, note that buying a year-
a piece of the Mediterranean palette to grace your home,
old, foot-tall tree will typically cost somewhere between $25 and $50.
there are plenty of decorative varietals from which to
They grow slowly, too, and it will take anywhere from three to five
choose. They offer a striking contrast to most traditional
years to see fruit, if you see any at all. Select a tree that has evenly
houseplants and, like Penelope’s, they ultimately symbolize
distributed main branches, and avoid or remove crossed branches. It’s
your epic dedication and perseverance.
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Deep Red Mourvèdre by KRISTI WILLIS photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT
“
It’s not light — there is so much depth and character — but it expresses where it is from.
”
46 / EdibleAustin.com
edible VARIETAL
H
ard to pronounce (it’s more-VED), but easy to drink,
William Chris Vineyards now yields 40 percent of their produc-
mourvèdre has become a favorite of Texas winemakers.
tion from mourvèdre, producing eight single vineyard mourvèdre
Originally from the Catalonia region of Spain, where
wines and using it as a blending grape in their red Skeleton Key
it is called monastrell, the grape produces deep, spicy red wines and is used as a blending grape in rosé cava. In the Bandol region of France, winemakers use mourvèdre, which can age for decades, to create intense reds as well as light, Provençal rosés.
and Artist Blend, and in their rosé. The wines have quickly become customer favorites, in part because Texas mourvèdre develops differently than its European cousins. While the intensity of mourvèdre from Bandol or Spain can be in-
Mourvèdre might be best known as a blending grape in the Southern
timidating for some wine drinkers, Texas mourvèdre is smoother
Rhône Valley of France. Serving as the “M” in a GSM (grenache,
on the palate. Instead of heavy blackberry and jam notes, a Texas
syrah, mourvèdre) blend like a Côtes du Rhône or the prized
mourvèdre has more red fruit, like red plum and cranberry mixed
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the dark, tannic grape adds structure and a
with the leather and spice aromas, and it doesn’t typically need to
depth of color to the blend.
be decanted or aged for a long period to round out the rough edges.
Texas winemakers are drawn to mourvèdre for its versatility and
“Texas mourvèdre is a little more approachable than [in] Bandol,”
diversity. This varietal needs an abundance of sun and heat, mak-
says Brundrett. “It’s not light — there is so much depth and char-
ing it well suited for the state’s vineyards. “Mourvèdre grows fan-
acter — but it expresses where it is from. We make mourvèdre
tastically well in Texas, both in the Hill Country and the High
wine from five different vineyards within 25 miles of each other,
Plains,” says winemaker Chris Brundrett of William Chris
and they are night and day different from each other.”
Vineyards. “2013 and 2014 were two of the most dismal years in Texas wine history, but we had great crops of mourvèdre both years. We realized that if we wanted to make wine every year we needed to grow mourvèdre extensively and figure out how to make it taste really good.”
Mourvèdre pairs perfectly with grilled game or red meats. Brundrett suggests that there is no better pairing than a cabrito taco and mourvèdre.
Fast Facts About Mourvèdre •
Other names for mourvèdre: monastrell (Spain), mataró (Australia and California)
•
•
Styles: °°
Full-bodied red wine
°°
Red blends
°°
Still rosé
°°
Sparkling rosé
Profile for red wine °°
Full-bodied
°°
High tannin
°°
Medium-high acidity
°°
Medium-high alcohol
EdibleAustin.com / 47
edible VARIETAL
Where to Find Texas Mourvèdre ARMADILLO’S LEAP WINERY
Texas Mourvèdre, OMG Blend
LOST DRAW CELLARS
Mourvèdre
BECKER VINEYARDS
Culinaria Red Blend, Prairie Rotie Red Blend, Saigné Rosé
MESSINA HOF
Artist Series Mourvèdre, GSM
PEDERNALES CELLARS
Newsom Vineyards North Block Blend, Texas GSM, Texas Family Reserve, Texas Dry Rosé
BENDING BRANCH WINERY
Mourvèdre, Branch Texas Red Blend
BRENNAN VINEYARDS
RANCHO LOMO VINEYARDS
Valera Reserve Blend
Dry Rosé
C.L. BUTAUD
Dry Rosé
RON YATES WINES
FALL CREEK VINEYARDS
ExTerra Mourvèdre, Salt Lick Vineyards GSM Blend
Bingham Family Vineyards Mourvèdre
KUHLMAN CELLARS
TX Alluve Red Blend, Barranca Red Blend
SOUTHOLD FARM + CELLAR
All The Good Things You Keep Inside (Mataró)
SPICEWOOD VINEYARDS
Texas High Plains Mourvèdre
WILLIAM CHRIS VINEYARDS
8 Single Vineyard Mourvèdre, Skeleton Key Blend, Artist Blend, Dry Rosé, Pétillant Naturel Rosé
LEWIS WINES
Lost Draw Mourvèdre, Syrah/ Mourvèdre Blend, High Plains Red Blend, High Plains Rosé, Hill Country Rosé
LLANO ESTACADO WINERY
Mataro, Raider Syrah/Mourvèdre Blend
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Edible Ink
by Bambi Edlund
The highest recorded pancake toss was 37’7”
The Tuesday preceding Ash Wednesday is widely celebrated as a day of indulgence. Depending on where you are, the day is known as Fat Tuesday or Shrove Tuesday. The tradition of making pancakes on this day began as a mighty fine way to use up butter, milk and eggs before Lent.
The Olney, England pancake race has been held on Shrove Tuesday since 1445. Competitors run in an apron and headscarf, while flipping a pancake in a pan.
La Chandeleur is celebrated in France on February 2nd with a feast of crêpes. Originally a fertility ritual performed during crop-planting, it is thought that crêpes became associated with La Chandeleur because they look like the sun.
According to French superstition, if you hold a coin in one hand and successfully flip a crêpe with the other, you will have a prosperous year.
It takes about 40 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon of maple syrup. One maple tree yields 10-15 gallons of sap per season.
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the idiom “flat as a pancake” has been in use since at least 1611.
In France, crêpes are often served with just a squeeze of lemon and sprinkle of sugar.
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