Edible Austin May/June 2019

The Grower Project / Road Trip to Driftwood / Know Your Alliums No. 64 May/June 2019

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CONTENTS R EGUL A R S 07 Eat Drink Local 08 What’s on Our Counter

16

24

HAIRSTON CREEK FARM

ROAD TRIP TO DRIFTWOOD

A long-running farm taking on new life.

Get your barbecue fix and so much more.

30

36

FRESH LOOK AT TERROIR

KNOW YOUR ALLIUMS

Joining forces to promote single varietal, single vineyard Texas wines.

From the base of a dish to a garnish, alliums are delicious additions to dinner.

10 N otable Edibles Urban Roots' New Digs.

Love, Tito's.

14 W hat’s in Season 21 E dible Endeavor Hi Sign Brewery.

40 E dible Varietal Texas Albariño.

42 E dible Ink Pico de Gallo.

On the Cover

The Grower Project / Road Trip to Driftwood / Know Your Alliums No. 64 May/June 2019

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

Rob, Hannah and their daughter Winnie of Hairston Creek Farm (page 16).

Photography by Andy Sams.

EdibleAustin.com / 5

PUBLISHER’S note

Let's Explore

N

ow is the perfect time of year to get

PUBLISHER

out on the road and explore some

Jenna Northcutt

great new spots — along with

the

old favorites, of course — both in and around Austin. When we started planning this issue, I wanted to make a point to shine a light on many

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dawn Weston

of the unique food and beverage businesses popping up just outside of the city limits. As Austin

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

expands and grows, the towns a quick drive down

Darby Kendall

the road are developing right along with us.

Join us on a road trip through Driftwood, our neighbors to the southwest, on page 24. Most Austinites have already taken the trip to visit the world famous Salt Lick BBQ , either to get your fill of barbecue or to attend a wedding (like mine) at one of their venues. But now, there’s so much more to explore in the area before you get your barbecue fix.

I’m excited to share the story of a couple who recently took over a long-running farm just outside of Austin. Located between Burnet and Marble Falls, Hairston Creek

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Weber

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Mika Locklear

Farm is diversifying their offerings beyond crops and CSAs by opening up the farm’s

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

creekside to visiting campers. Read more about Hannah, Rob and their growing farm

Claire Cella

on page 16.

Dena Garcia

It's also a beautiful time for a trip to the Hill Country to get some fresh peaches and roam a field, or two, full of lavender. Use those local peaches in your weeknight

Stacey Ingram Kaleh Kathleen Brady Stimpert

meals with some of our best peach recipes: Find them at edibleaustin.com/peaches.

If you happen to stop in any of the Hill Country wineries listed on page 40, ask to

DISTRIBUTION

sample some Texas Albariño. I think it tastes just like sunshine in a glass and I’m

Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

sure y’all will agree. And, as always, be sure to tag us in any posts you make on your adventures with #myedibleaustin.

Cheers to getting out and exploring not only Austin, but all of the amazing towns Central Texas has to offer.

Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.

6 / EdibleAustin.com

CONTACT US 1101 Navasota St., Ste. 1, Austin, TX 78702 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2019. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Edible Austin is a member of Edible Communities.

eat drink LOCAL

Hooray for our Local Heroes!

Earlier this year, we asked readers to vote for their local heroes — the folks who are making a major contribution to our local food

Where to eat out...

community. Here we proudly present the winners and salute their outstanding achievements:

Explore our list of locally sourcing

• Chef/Restaurant: Kevin Fink, Emmer & Rye

restaurants making an effort to support

• Food Shop: Antonelli's Cheese Shop

our local farmers and ranchers.

• Food Artisan: Miche Bread • Farm/Farmer: Carol Ann Sayle, Boggy Creek Farm

edibleaustin.com/restaurants

• Beverage Artisan: Texas Keeper Cider • Nonprofit: Central Texas Food Bank Read more about our winners at edibleaustin.com/localheroes

Pick-your-own farms!

Don't have time to pick up a copy of the magazine?

Have yourself an idyllic day

We deliver! And it's a great way to support us, so we can

picking peaches, berries and more at one of these great pick-your-own farms.

keep bringing you great stories.

edibleaustin.com/farms

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EDIBLES IN THE WILD Tag us with #myedibleaustin for a chance to see your photo here.

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@valerienava1 EdibleAustin.com / 7

W H AT ’ S

ON OUR

COUNTER

by DARBY KENDALL photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT

8 / EdibleAustin.com

Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

BECKER VINEYARDS The arrival of warm weather means it’s time to break out the rosé! One of our Texas-made favorites is the Becker Vineyards Provençal 2017, a dry, Provence-style rosé. This light-bodied beverage is made using several varietals including carignan, tempranillo, mourvédre, counoise, malbec and a small amount of petit verdot. The cooler fermentation temperature for this wine keeps the floral flavors of the fruit and the grape pressing method gives it a pink hue. The wine pairs perfectly with many foods including light fish, grilled vegetables, pork, fowl and rich, cheesy dishes. Find it at Becker Vineyards’ tasting room, H-E-B and Spec’s Wines, Spirits & Finer Foods.

830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Fredericksburg beckervineyards.com

BETTER BITES BAKERY Eating cookie dough straight out of the bowl is a heavenly experience, but sometimes the aftermath isn’t worth the risk of salmonella poisoning. The local bakers at Better Bites understand how delicious cookie dough can be, so they’ve developed a chocolate-covered version that’s equally satisfying and totally safe to eat. Plus, like all of their baked goods, the cookie dough balls are top-eight-allergen free, meaning they contain no dairy, eggs, gluten, soy, peanuts, tree nuts, fish or shellfish. Better Bites makes a wide variety of tasty goods, too. Find them at grocery stores around the country, including Royal Blue Grocery, Wheatsville Food Co-op and H-E-B. betterbitesbakery.com

PEOPLES RX If you’re looking for a quick way to get your fruits and veggies from a local source, we highly recommend Peoples Rx’s pharm-fresh, cold-pressed juices. They’re organic, raw and come in several flavors like The Love Cleanse (cucumber, spinach, parsley, kale and celery) and our office favorite, Glow (carrot, apple and ginger). If raw juice isn’t up your alley, Peoples Deli also offers raw, organic cashew milk in spiced and chocolate flavors, as well as a variety of smoothies. Find these beverages at their three locations around Austin.

512-459-0845; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-444-8272; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd.

512-327-8868; 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com

CHINOOK SEEDERY Sunflower seeds now have a flavor beyond just salty, thanks to local sunflower seed purveyor Chinook Seedery. Founded by an avid sunflower seed fan who wanted more from the classic snack, Chinook Seedery offers six flavors of seeds: Original, Hatch Chile, Smokehouse BBQ , Parmesan & Pepper, Cinnamon Toast and Dill Pickle. At Edible Austin, we're big fans of the Parmesan & Pepper.

Unlike most other packaged sunflower seeds, these are low sodium and pack quite the punch tastewise. Find them online at the business’ website and at convenience stores around Austin. chinookseedery.com

EdibleAustin.com EdibleAustin.com / 9/ 9

notable EDIBLES

New Digs

by DARBY KENDALL / photography by URBAN ROOTS AND BONNIE & LAUREN PHOTOGRAPHY

I

t’s becoming increasingly rare to find undeveloped land for

“We want to be thoughtful coming in as a new neighbor, so

lease in Austin, so when Max Elliott found a city-owned plot

we're going to create a youth-led community engagement

not yet claimed, he jumped at the chance to use the land in a

process where young people will get the chance to understand

way that would benefit the surrounding community.

Elliott, executive director of local nonprofit Urban Roots, was supported in pursuing the land for the nonprofit by Austin City

the strengths and assets in that neighborhood, listen to the community and see where there are opportunities for Urban Roots to collaborate with existing organizations,” Elliott says.

Council members Delia Garza and Kathie Tovo. Last winter, after

When envisioning the future of the site, Elliott hopes it will

debating for years what to do with the plot, City Council unani-

become a communal hub for the Urban Roots youth, volunteers

mously approved a long-term lease for Urban Roots to use the site

and Austinites who simply want to learn more about food and

as a second farm.

farming. “We'd like for this to be a model for other cities, to really

The addition of the nine-acre tract provides an exciting possibility for the evolution of the farm-based youth leadership organization. Their current property along Boggy Creek is nearly a third

demonstrate sustainability and create a welcoming and inclusive space for people to really connect with where their food comes from,” he says.

smaller and located in a floodplain. “It's really exciting to live

For now, Urban Roots youth will work with the folks in Dove

in a city that is investing in urban agriculture,” Elliott says. “We

Springs to plan the best possible site for the community, while

take this opportunity that the city council members have given us

also planting cover crops and building up the soil to prepare the

really seriously.”

3.5 acres reserved for farmland on the site. If you’re interested

Fittingly, the plot used to be pasture land for a dairy in the 1950s, so with this lease there is a return to its agricultural roots.

Currently, Urban Roots grows 25,000 pounds of food each year and donates 40 percent of that to local food pantries and soup kitchens. This new site will double that production. The land, located in Dove Springs, is just an empty expanse of field for now — the perfect blank slate on which to build a farm.

10 / EdibleAustin.com

in assisting Urban Roots during this transition period, Elliott has some simple advice: “Visit us on the farm and at the farmers market … You'll get a chance to interact and work alongside Urban Roots youth leaders, and they're the ones that really embody the spirit of our work.”

For more information, visit urbanrootsatx.org

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EdibleAustin.com / 11

notable EDIBLES

Pouring Up Philanthropy

by DARBY KENDALL

W

hen Tito Beveridge first began producing and selling Tito’s Handmade Vodka in Austin over 20 years ago, a local nonprofit called him up and asked if he could

donate a couple of cases of his vodka to their fundraising event.

“He had just started the first legal distillery in Texas, and he decided that it was really a great way to get the brand in the hand, so he would donate products to nonprofit events,” says Lisa Huddleston, director of strategic philanthropy at Tito's

the Health Alliance for Austin Musicians, more commonly known

Handmade Vodka. “When the events kept getting bigger and big-

as HAAM, an organization that provides access to affordable health-

ger, he kept donating his product more and more. The only thing

care for low-income, working musicians in our city. With the release

he would really ask is, ‘If you like it, tell 20 of your closest friends.’”

of the video, Huddleston says HAAM gained national exposure like

Those initial donations have now grown into a full-fledged philan-

they’d never seen before.

thropy project known as Love, Tito’s. The name originates from

“We support a plethora of nonprofits, both in Austin and nation-

the signatures that employees put on letters and donations to the

wide, and we've even gone global as well,” Huddleston says. “But

organizations they benefit, always signing “Love, Tito’s.”

obviously, we always want to make the biggest impact here in our

Today, they have given products, promotions and cash donations

backyard, in Austin.”

to thousands of nonprofits throughout the country. “Whether it’s

When asked what the future of Love, Tito’s holds, Huddleston

something local like Emancipet here in Austin or natural disasters

replies that she hopes their work will inspire others to give back

on a global scale, we try to spread love and joy as much as we can

as well. “Tito has done it, and all of our employees have done it,

and as far as we can,” Huddleston says.

with vodka as our medium,” she says. “Whatever you're passion-

One of their more recent philanthropic projects is the Love Stories video series, highlighting three nonprofits particularly near and dear to the hearts of the Love, Tito’s team. One video focuses on

ate about, whatever you find that makes a difference to you in the world, we just hope that you would go out and support it.”

For more information, visit titosvodka.com/love

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W H AT ’ S

IN

SEASON

Arugula Basil Beets Blackberries Blueberries Carrots Cilantro Corn Cow Peas Cucumbers Dewberries Eggplant Garlic Green Beans Kale Melons Mint Okra Onions Parsley Peaches Peppers, hot Plums

Looking for peach recipes?

Shallots

We've got entrées, drinks, appetizers and more. Find our best peach recipes at edibleaustin.com/peaches

Squash Sweet Potatoes Tomatoes Turnips Watermelon Zucchini

photography by CAROLE TOPALIAN 14 / EdibleAustin.com

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FARMERS diary

Hairston Creek Farm

by KM THORNBERRY / photography by ANDY SAMS

T

here is no mistaking Hairston Creek as you drive up

while Rob was getting his associates degree in Wind Energy and

County Road 335 toward the farm that bears its name. It

Turbine Technology. “One of the things I found out after I got my

is a big creek, with clear, crystal-green pools that suggest

degree was, if you want to work in the wind energy field,” Rob

underground springs and year-round fishing. Sprawling pecans and cottonwoods dot its banks, tracing its course through the Hill Country.

says, “you have to live in the middle of nowhere. Literally.”

Sharing an intense love of music, they settled in Austin instead, and they opened a bicycle rental business called Bikes on Bikes.

Ezekiel Hairston settled on the creek in the 1850s and found the

Using specially built cargo bikes, they transported rental bicy-

alluvial soil to be some of the richest in Burnet County. The pres-

cles around the city, leaving a zero carbon footprint. The business

ent day Hairston Creek Farm occupies thirty of Ezekiel’s most

did well for five years, but eventually Austin’s bike rental market

arable acres. The soil here is deep, and the fields are flat as a grid-

became glutted and they needed to find a new “green” business.

iron, easy to plow and safely above the floodplain.

The birth of their daughter, Winnie, only made it that much more

In 1990, farmer Gary Rowland and his wife, Sarah, bought the

important to them to leave a livable planet behind.

property, and in 1993 they obtained one of the first organic

Organic farming fit the bill. To prepare for the transition, Hannah

certifications in the state. At the time, Whole Foods was just

took Farmshare Austin’s “Farmer Starter” program in the spring

beginning to expand, and the chain was happy to buy all the pesti-

of 2018. “I wanted to make sure I understood the challenges of

cide-free vegetables the Rowland family could provide. Gary and

farming, especially the business side,” Hannah says. “Was this

Sarah continued running the farm until Sarah’s untimely death in

something I really wanted to do? Better to find out before making

2012. Gary soldiered on, but once the couple’s three children were

a big commitment.” She and Rob moved to Hairston Creek Farm

grown and pursuing their own careers, it became increasingly

in July. They spent six months farming alongside Rowland, learn-

difficult for him to go it alone.

ing the farm’s particular rhythms as well as where and how to sell

Rowland found himself in a very common predicament: needing

what they grew. Then, this January, they took the reins.

to find young farmers to take over his farm. Farming is physically

Their first goal is to build the business back up to its former pros-

punishing work, yet the average age of a farmer in the United

perity, hopefully by the end of the year. This includes expanding

States is 58. At the present moment, there are six farmers over 65

the farm's CSA, a program in which members make a seasonal

for every farmer under 35. Additionally, 80 percent of American

commitment to the farm and receive a weekly or bi-weekly share

farms are expected to change hands in the next ten years, with

of the farm's bounty in return. “We are looking to increase our

most of them falling into the hands of agribusiness conglomer-

CSA boxes up to 100 a week,” Hannah says. “It’s going to take

ates. This wasn’t the fate Rowland wanted for Hairston Creek.

time, but we do have one of the best CSA boxes around.”

Rowland’s friend John Simmons mentioned his daughter, Hannah,

“We also have a secret weapon,” says Rob. “Our eggs.” The

and her husband, Rob Beall, might be interested. The couple met

Hairston Creek Rhode Island Reds have the run of the farm during

EdibleAustin.com / 17

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FARMERS diary the day, and they are spectacular, visibly contented birds.

Their eggs have always been in high demand, and CSA box customers can request a dozen. This summer, the CSA boxes will feature sweet peppers, jalapeño peppers, basil, pickling cucumbers, potatoes, okra, shishito peppers, onions and heirloom tomatoes, including Cherokee Purples, Sungolds and San Marzanos.

The Bealls are also renting campsites along breathtaking Hairston Creek via the website HipCamp. Unlike overcrowded State Parks, the area along the creek is secluded and peaceful. You can even see the stars at night. “We are really close to Spider Mountain Bike Park, the only mountain bike park in Texas with a bike lift,” says Rob. “And it’s not far to Ink’s Lake and Lake Buchanan.”

You know those cargo bikes they used to transport rental bikes around? It turns out they are perfect for transporting flats of produce in from the fields. Each cargo bike can carry up to ten cargo flats at a time. “And they are far more reliable than the tractor,” says Hannah. “It gives me hope when I see all the ways farming can be even more sustainable.”

For more information, visit facebook.com/hairstoncreekfarm

EdibleAustin.com / 19

Sunny days deserve fresh cut cheeses

Visit AntonellisCheese.com to reserve your picnic basket

4220 Duval St. | (512) 531-9610

1500 SOUTH LAMAR BLVD 512.473.2211 www.barlataaustin.com

Mother’s Day Luncheon Sunday, May 12

at Lavender Haus Reception Hall Winery Tasting Room

464 Becker Farms Road, Fredericksburg

— or — Tasting Room on Main

307 East Main, Fredericksburg Hours: Mon - Thurs, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.; Sun, Noon – 6 p.m.

Main Street open an hour later except Sundays.

Last wine tasting, 30 min before closing.

www.beckervineyards.com 830-644-2681 20 / EdibleAustin.com

lick

South Lamar, North Burnet & Mueller

honest ice creams Austin

ilikelick.com

edible ENDEAVOR

Hi Sign Brewing

A

fter 10 years in politics and three tours of duty with the Marine Corps, Mark Phillippe was searching for his next career and life path. An idea started brewing in

2010 while he was fishing with family in his father’s home state of Montana, on the banks of the Blackfoot River. Inspired by his love for craft beer and encouraged by two of his mentors, Tito’s Handmade Vodka founder Tito Beveridge and Deep Eddy Vodka and Sweet Leaf Tea founder Clayton Christopher, Phillippe set his

by CLAUDIA ALARCÓN

sights on a microbrewery.

photography by ANDY SAMS

To set things in motion, he took coursework in brewing science at the University of California, Davis, attended the Business of Craft Brewing program at Portland State University and graduated from the Boots to Business program in entrepreneurship at Syracuse University. His hard work and efforts paid off when, in 2017, Hi Sign Brewing opened in East Austin. Named after his family’s cabin at the end of Hi Sign Road in the mountains of Montana, the brewery has enjoyed rapid growth and great success in just over two years.

The one-acre property houses the brewery as well as a small tasting room and an ample, grassy backyard. Although the space

EdibleAustin.com / 21

edible ENDEAVOR

is large, it is quite cozy, and children and dogs are always welcome. Phillippe built the bar, beautiful tree-slab tables and benches where beer lovers share pints and conversation. The staff is friendly and eager to chat about the beer and pour samples.

“Consumers today want fresh, high-quality beer,” says Phillippe. “They are open to new and different stuff, and we are open to change, and we constantly innovate.” Hi Sign’s head brewer, Andrew Shelton, is a graduate of the Master Brewing Program at UC Davis and has an extensive brewing background which includes jobs as assistant brewer at Revolver Brewing in Granbury, Texas, and head brewer at Big Storm Brewing Co. in Clearwater, Florida.

Shelton’s lightest offering is the Christie American Blonde, crisp and refreshing with a hoppy finish.

Violet, a version of the blonde with subtle hints of fresh blueberries, is one of the best-selling local beers in Austin. “It is a great crossover,” says Phillippe. “It appeals to craft beer bars, mainstream bars and restaurants.” Rounding out the core beers

22 / EdibleAustin.com

Locally Sourced Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Happy Hour, & Weekend Brunch Craft Cocktails, Entertainment, & more!

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are the Shamus Irish Red and the flagship Wooderson IPA. Since October 2017, Hi Sign has been canning their four core beers, brewing 30 barrels of each per week and selling more than 500

THE LEANING PEAR H ill Country -inspired C uisine

cases to date. All are available at retail outlets as well as on tap at the brewery and various bars and restaurants.

Limited-release beers are available at the taproom only, in fourpacks of 16 oz. cans and on draft; the varieties change seasonally, although they lean heavily toward IPAs and Double IPAs. Among

Unique. Well Crafted. Delicious.

popular offerings are the Astronaut Double IPA and a double dryhopped version called Super Astronaut IPA that boasts a whopping 9.5 percent alcohol as well as a Top 14 honor from a field of 165

111 river road, Wimberley, texas 512-847-pear | leaningpear.Com

entries in the prestigious Alpha King Challenge. In January 2019, Hi Sign released No Scooters, a 7.4 percent American IPA brewed with lactose, oats, El Dorado, Idaho 7 and Amarillo hops, and double dry-hopped with Motueka. The brew drew a following for its juicy, citrusy kick, but the can design — a stick figure on a motorized scooter circled by the classic red slash sign — sealed the deal for its popularity. These limited-edition cans are garnering national attention from craft beer aficionados.

But all this success and growth has come at a price. Phillippe is working 17-hour days ensuring everything runs smoothly. “I have never had more anxiety, worked harder or slept less, but I have never been happier,” he says. “I have a three-and-a-half-month-old daughter who I never see, so every day is a lesson in humility.

I have a great team that likes what they do and enjoys working together. Our mission is to make great beer, sell great beer and have fun doing it.”

Lately, visitors have found it difficult to find the brewery because extensive construction along Highway 183 has blocked direct access.

COCONUT MILK BASED ICE CREAM TRUCK BY

For the time being, visitors must enter from W. Highway 71 by taking a right on Bastrop Highway, just past P. Terry’s. It is not hard to follow the detour, and the fresh beer and welcoming atmosphere make it completely worth the effort.

For more information, visit hisignbrewing.com

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EdibleAustin.com / 23

edible EXPLORES

Driftwood ROAD TRIP TO

PH OT OG RA PH Y BY NATH AN BE EL S

HILL COUNTRY TASTING ROOM DESERT DOOR STINSON

SALT LICK BBQ & SALT LICK CELLARS FALL CREEK VINEYARDS

TRATTORIA LISINA

DRIFTWOOD ESTATE WINERY

DUCHMAN FAMILY WINERY

VISTA BREWING

HAYS CITY STORE

24 / EdibleAustin.com

edible EXPLORES

Left to right: Desert Door Texas Sotol, Duchman Family Winery and Driftwood Estate Winery

F

has been synonymous with Salt Lick BBQ. Since they

Driftwood Estate Winery

opened in 1967, Austinites have been making the short

Stop in for some beautiful views and enjoy a “Pick Six” tasting.

drive south of Austin for the famous all-you-can-eat, cash-on-

As you drive out to the tasting room, you’ll climb to the top of

ly, BYOB barbecue joint. About 11 years ago, Salt Lick owner

a hill that offers a great view out over the vineyards. Select six

Scott Roberts told Edible Austin about his vision to trans-

of the 20 wines they have available for a tasting, and keep your

form the area into a wine-lover’s paradise and an antidote to

Riedel wine glass embellished with the Driftwood logo once

urban sprawl. Driftwood Estate Winery and Duchman Family

you’re finished. Most of their wine selection comes from both

Winery were already established in the area, and Salt Lick

their estate and from grapes grown by Newsom Vineyards in

Cellars followed closely behind when they planted their first

the Texas High Plains.

or over half a century, the town of Driftwood, Texas,

grapes. Today, Driftwood has really come into its own. As the vines have matured, so have the wines coming out of the area.

For those who prefer other libations, beer and liquor options are flocking to the area as well. If you’re looking for a nice

512-858-9667 4001 Elder Hill Rd., Driftwood driftwoodvineyards.com

day trip, or just want to get out of town, head south toward the waft of smoky barbecue. But please remember to drink responsibly, and always have a designated driver for your journeys.

Duchman Family Winery

Desert Door Texas Sotol

As you drive through the front gates and past Trattoria

The sotol, or desert spoon plant, is harvested throughout

the Italian countryside. Though the atmosphere is European,

Texas and distilled in Driftwood to create Desert Door Texas

Duchman takes pride in using 100 percent Texas-grown grapes

Sotol. Imagine a cross between an herbaceous vodka and tequila,

in all of their wines. Sample current releases in their tasting

and you get the singular flavor of sotol. Their tasting room is

room, or find a nice spot outside to enjoy the landscape. Take

unique as well, with an atmosphere evocative of a lazy day in

a turn out of the tasting room and go down the hallway, where

Marfa. Stop by to try the sotol straight or enjoy a signature cocktail.

you can take yourself on a little tour and view the production

If you can’t make up your mind, go for the bartender’s choice.

areas.

512-829-6129

512-858-1470

211 Darden Hill Rd., Driftwood

13308 R.M. 150, Driftwood

desertdoor.com

duchmanwinery.com

Lisina (page 28), you will feel like you’ve been transported to

EdibleAustin.com / 25

edible EXPLORES

Left: Hays City Store burger and margarita flight.

Right: Fall Creek Vineyards

Fall Creek Vineyards Hays City Store

Located across the road from Salt Lick BBQ , neighbor and col-

The restaurant and icehouse has live music almost every night

in their Terroir Reflections series. Visit the tasting room and

and its homestyle menu is perfect for any road trip pit stop. Find

the knowledgeable staff will walk you through a tasting of six of

a shaded spot outside or belly up to the bar inside. You’ll likely

their wines. If you’re looking for a getaway, take advantage of the

find yourself next to a couple of regulars who will happily give

two-bedroom vacation rental next to the tasting room.

you some suggestions from the expansive menu.

laborator Fall Creek has released some Salt Lick Vineyards wines

512-858-4050

512-722-3905

18059 F.M. 1826, Driftwood

8989 R.M. 150, Driftwood

fcv.com

hayscitystoretx.com

Hill Country Tasting Room

Salt Lick BBQ The iconic barbecue restaurant is still a can’t-miss stop when you’re

This tasting room sets out to give you a sampling of all the Hill

in the area. And some things never change, like the fact that they are

Country has to offer, from beer and wine to mead and cider. You

still cash only and BYOB. But now, if you forget to pack the cooler,

can get a tasting flight or, if you already have a favorite, a full

you can go next door to Salt Lick Cellars to grab yourself a beverage.

pour. Check their website for the current list of offerings.

The restaurant takes reservations for groups, with some restrictions.

512-829-8977

512-858-4959

18992 R.M. 150, Ste. 101, Driftwood

18300 F.M. 1826, Driftwood

hillcountrytastingroom.com

saltlickbbq.com

26 / EdibleAustin.com

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edible EXPLORES

Left: Salt Lick BBQ. Photo by Carole Topalian.

Right: Vista Brewing

Trattoria Lisina Salt Lick Cellars

This Italian restaurant is from the founder of Mandola’s Italian Markets in Austin and one of the founders of the national Carrabba’s Italian Grill. They are open for lunch and dinner on

Enjoy Salt Lick’s own line of wines or try wine and craft beer from

the weekends and dinner on weekdays. Enjoy their menu of Italian

many other local producers in the Salt Lick Cellars tasting room or

classics while taking in the beautiful views around the restaurant

outside on the shaded deck. It will be hard to resist the urge to walk

and of the neighboring vineyard, Duchman Family Winery.

next door and enjoy some barbecue with your favorite find.

512-643-9402

512-829-4013

13308 R.M. 150, Driftwood

18300 F.M. 1826, Ste. C, Driftwood

trattorialisina.com

saltlickcellars.com

Stinson Distilling

Vista Brewing Vista Brewing keeps its beers very drinkable with low alcohol by

This distillery has a unique storefront, but don’t be fooled by its

volume. And pay special attention to their collaboration series; the

industrial appearance. When you first pull up, follow the drive-

latest is with Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, infusing the

way to the back of the building, and you’ll find a couple garage

beer with native plants. Vista takes as much pride in their food as

doors that open up to reveal the distillery and tasting room. Stinson’s

they do in their beer, so be sure to grab a snack or a full meal while

has an eclectic variety of spirits including a ready-to-drink nog,

you’re there, and pay close attention to the specials board! Vista’s

an elderflower liqueur and a brandy. Try them all with a tasting or

culinary ingredients are locally sourced from Central Texas farms,

jump right in and get a signature cocktail.

as well as their own garden and apiary.

512-894-2009

512-766-1842

18281 R.M. 150, Ste. 211, Driftwood

13551 R.M. 150, Driftwood

stinsondistilling.com

vistabrewingtx.com

28 / EdibleAustin.com

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10:30 AM—ALWAYS FREE! ALWAYS EMPOWERING!

VISIT US 200 WEST MARY ST. AUSTIN

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www.tilliesdrippingsprings.com EdibleAustin.com / 29

by MM PACK photography by RAE WILSON AND MELANIE GRIZZEL

edible ENDEAVOR

THE PREMISE Know the land. Respect the hands.

This simple statement, found on every bottle of wine from The Grower Project, pretty much says it all about the venture cofounded by respected Texas wine figures Rae Wilson and Andrew Sides.

Not only are they committed to using 100 percent Texas grapes, but their mission is to work directly with growers to make quality wines from the grapes of a single vineyard. The hands and the land.

Texas terroir in spades.

Wine grapes are the product of the soil, the weather, the elevation and the growers; wine is a collaboration between those who tend the vines and those who make the wine. “In most of the world, the important role of growers is recognized,” Wilson says. “And really great wines always begin with the grapes. We think that should be the case here in Texas, too. We’re trying to shine a light on where the fruit comes from and, with our wines, tell stories of what’s unique about each site.”

THE PLAYERS Wilson and Sides bring wide and varied experiences to The Grower Project. Wilson is an Austin-based, multi-tasking wine evangelist, sommelier, wine business consultant and winemaker.

Sides is managing partner of Lost Draw Cellars in Fredericksburg and was raised on a West Texas High Plains farm, where he began tending to his family’s grapevines while still a teenager.

Wilson grew up in St. Louis and spent years working as a server and bartender in restaurants to support her music and art interests. Over time, the script flipped, and she developed such a love for wine that, in 2007, she began formal wine training. She’s earned a Level III advanced certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) and is a certified sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers.

EdibleAustin.com / 31

After a few seasons working harvests and cellar jobs at Napa

High Plains. “We sold our grapes to wineries in the Hill Country,”

Valley’s Artesa Vinyards & Winery and in northern and southern

says Sides. “Later, I linked up with young winemakers who were

wine regions in Portugal, Wilson turned her attention to the

buying the grapes. We had similar perspectives; this gave me the

flourishing Texas wine industry and moved to Austin to join it.

incentive to open Lost Draw Cellars in Fredericksburg.”

In 2010, she created Wine For the People, a multifaceted business with the goal of cultivating wine community and accessibility — teaching classes, leading tastings and consulting with restaurants and wine businesses. “I look at gaps in the Texas wine industry and strategize how they can be filled,” she says. She’s developing a permanent Austin home for Wine for the People — a cellar, bottle shop and gathering place to be called Citizen Wine. In addition, Wilson started her own small wine production in 2014; Dandy Rosé is a dry blend of 100 percent Texas-grown grapes. The fifth vintage was released in March 2019.

Lost Draw Cellars is a collaboration with Sides, Timmons and Sides’ father-in-law, Troy Ottmers, a retired oil and gas distributor whose property near downtown Fredericksburg morphed beautifully into the winery. Since the first vintage of 400 cases of Tempranillo and Sangiovese in 2012, Sides jumped with both feet into the wine business, ultimately leaving engineering work and moving his family to Fredericksburg. In addition to managing Lost Draw Cellars and his work with The Grower Project, he’s the immediate past board president of Texas Hill Country Wineries, a nonprofit trade association of 50 wineries.

Sides found his place in the wine world via a different route, as a typical Texas farm kid — the kind that started driving a tractor at the age

Wilson and Sides realized they shared common ideas about what

of 12. He grew up in Terry County, fittingly known as "The Grape

they wanted to see in Texas wines, and The Grower Project was

Capital of Texas,” located southwest of Lubbock. Three generations

born in 2016 to reflect those values. “In general, there’s a lack

of his family grew cotton, peanuts and corn on more than 1,000

of connection between growers and consumers in agriculture,”

acres. Then, at the instigation of his uncle Andy Timmons, they

Sides says. “I didn’t see that connection, till I started working

planted the first five acres of grapes in 2006, when Sides was in

with wine. Our area [Brownfield, High Plains] has such a sense

high school. He got into tending the vines as “something different,”

of place, and there’s so much attention paid to the land and the

found he enjoyed it and continued working at the expanding Lost

crops. Consumers should know about this.”

Draw Vineyards during his summers at home while earning a civil engineering degree at Texas Tech.

Community-minded Wilson agrees. “Wine connects the earth under our feet to the hands that make it and to those who share it,”

Andy Timmons established a reputation for growing quality fruit

she says. “The more familiar we are with the people and the places

at Lost Draw and now owns and manages 500 acres of vines in the

wine comes from, the more it will help build the Texas industry.”

32 / EdibleAustin.com

edible ENDEAVOR

Three wines compose The Grower Project’s current portfolio, and two are made from sangiovese grapes, an Italian varietal that’s adapted well to Texas conditions. The grapes for The Source Sangiovese and Grower Project Rosato grow at the Letkeman Family Vineyard near the West Texas town of Seminole, in Gaines County.

Pedro and Sonja Letkeman tend a vineyard of just 10 acres planted in sandy, red clay and caliche at an elevation of 3,500 feet.

The Letkemans pick their vineyard twice, annually. The grapes harvested during first pick have lower sugars and higher acidity, resulting in a refreshing, dry Rosato with a lower alcohol content. The second harvest yields riper grape skins and seeds for The Source Sangiovese, a robust red wine containing some tannins and a sturdier fruit character. Sides says, “I grew up in the area and knew the Letkemans’ work; I was so impressed by what they were doing. Their grapes were right for Grower Project wines.” The first vintage of The Source Sangiovese was released in 2015; the first Rosato vintage was released in 2017.

The third wine that Sides and Wilson make is a dry, citrusy trebbiano from a white grape native to Italy but suited for Texas. These grapes grow at a 3,400-foot elevation in the 150-acre Paka Family Vineyard in Terry County, in a soil called

THE PORTFOLIO

Amarillo fine sandy loam. While the wine-loving Paka family lives in New Jersey, they were intrigued by the potential of Texas wines and wanted to participate in growing grapes for their development. The Grower Project’s first Trebbiano release was in 2017.

EdibleAustin.com / 33

“

salad days

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2201 College Avenue | 512.852.8791 | vinaigretteonline.com

PAID ADS ENABLE US TO CONTINUE TO TELL THE STORIES OF OUR COMMUNITY.

We’re trying to shine a light on where the fruit comes from and, with our wines, tell stories of what’s unique about each site.

”

THE VISION

What’s next for The Grower Project? In the immediate future,

Please support our partners who make Edible Austin possible and free to read.

Wilson and Sides say they’ll continue making their Sangiovese, Rosato and Trebbiano vintages. Going forward, however, they hope for additional single-vineyard sites and other suitable grape varieties. They’re interested in finding more growers and increasing the visibility of boutique wines made from Texas grapes. They want to connect growers to larger markets and raise consumer awareness about the unique qualities of individual vineyards.

And, of course, they’ll continue spreading the word about the hands that tend the vines and the land that sustains it all.

For more information about The Grower Project and where to find the wines, see thegrowerproject.com

34 / EdibleAustin.com

cooking FRESH

Know Your Alliums

by DANI COLOMBATTO

M

ost savory recipes with staying power have a

What cipollini and pearl onions lack in size, they make up for in their

mutual friend: the allium. When I say friend, I really

flavor and roasting capabilities. Tiny pearl onions, with their mild,

mean a whole crew — a litany of flavorful companions,

sweet flavor, are beyond delicious served whole in braises or gratins,

including but not limited to cultivated onions, shallots, scallions,

roasted with meat and fish and so much more. These onions can be

leeks, garlic, chives, ramps and more. This group has been pals for

found in the frozen or fresh produce sections. When buying fresh,

a while. In fact, we’ve been consuming onions for centuries — in

look for crisp, papery skins and always avoid brown spots.

Ancient Egypt, they were used as early as 3500 B.C.

Directly translated to “little onions” from Italian, cipollinis pos-

These pungent, beautiful bulbs are inexpensive, easy to grow and

sess a thin skin and a higher sugar content than your average on-

play an integral role in packing a flavorful punch into the aromat-

ion, making them ideal for roasting and easy caramelization with-

ic base of any recipe. Nowadays, we can find most varieties in

out any residual raw onion flavor. While these might be harder to

stores year-round. It’s safe to say that most home cooks probably

get your hands on than pearl onions, once you’ve experienced the

have some variety of onion or garlic on hand. But how well do you

beauty of their caramelization powers, I dare you not to drive to

really know your alliums? Obviously, this is a heavy-duty, philo-

your out-of-the-way market to pick some up.

sophical question for the ages, but never fear! We have done the legwork and developed a guide to getting the most out of these flavorful little buddies. After all, this might be our longest-lasting culinary relationship.

Rounding out our bulbed varieties are the popular garlic and shallot. Often used together in sautés, these alliums’ combined powers bring irreplaceable depth of flavor to any dish. Shallots are more closely related to onions and therefore have a higher burn-

Let us begin with the all-purpose allium: yellow onions. These

ing temperature than garlic does. Shallots, once cut, like to live in

are often eaten cooked, as their astringency levels are much

the refrigerator, while garlic enjoys a cool, dark environment just

higher than other varieties, but can be eaten raw as well —

like red, white, yellow, pearl and cipollini onions.

looking at you, P. Terry’s. Yellow onions feature a sweetness that intensifies as they cook and a rich, deep brown color when caramelized, making them an incredibly attractive candidate for many a sauce, soup, stew and braise. When it comes to cooking with onions, you need not look further than this bountiful bulb. Of course, if you do, you can always reach for its slightly stronger cousin, the white onion, and it will serve you equally well.

Now, to broach the scallion, green onion and spring onion debate.

First things first: scallions and green onions are one in the same.

These commonly used onions are either harvested before forming bulbs or come from varieties that never form bulbs at all. When choosing green onions, look for brightly colored, stiff greens and a firm, white base. After washing, pat dry and wrap in a damp paper towel for longer-lasting refrigerator storage. While these stalky bundles of flavor can be found year-round, they peak in the spring

Red onions skew less astringent and are sweeter, making them

and summer months. While spring onions may look similar, they

perfect for raw consumption. These purple-hued beauties are

have a bulb that imparts stronger flavor than the whites of a scallion,

great minced into guacamole and salsas or placed atop sandwich-

making them not exactly interchangeable when eaten raw. However,

es, in salads or anywhere you want to add a bright snap of acidity.

give them a light sauté, and they become downright comparable. Of-

Hot tip: Soak your red onions in water prior to serving raw if you

ten used as a garnish, these beauties are not to be undersold. Their

feel their astringency is too high. Or, to up your taco game, you

bright, piquant acidity lends itself to dressings, salads and mar-

can pickle them easily. Just finely slice half a red onion, top with

inades. Leave them whole, and they grill up beautifully alongside

red wine vinegar, let sit for 20 minutes and strain.

meat or fish. The versatility of the green onion knows no bounds.

EdibleAustin.com / 37

cooking FRESH

Roasted Cauliflower and Leek Soup SERVES 4–6

The inspiration for this soup came from a very aggressive craving for 2 heads cauliflower, cut into roughly 2–3” florets 4 T. olive oil, divided 3 leeks, well rinsed, halved, and chopped into ¼” thick half-moons

some form of broccoli cheddar soup, but without the usual heft. This café classic deserved an update — something lighter that maintains the classic cheesy flavor.

This soup begins with a base of leeks sautéed with rosemary, thyme,

4 t. butter, room temperature

garlic and lemon zest until everything is translucent, lightly caramel-

4 t. flour

ized and almost jam-like. White wine and fresh bay leaves add a little

2 t. rosemary, freshly chopped

extra depth of flavor. Golden, roasted cauliflower gets simmered in the

2 t. thyme, freshly chopped

soup, then partially blended into a state of velvety goodness and added

3

garlic cloves, minced

back in at the end. Additionally, it's the perfect recipe to make and

Zest of 1 lemon

freeze because it defrosts like you made it yesterday.

2 c. white wine 2

fresh bay leaves

Preheat oven to 375°. Place the cauliflower on a baking sheet, light-

4 c. low sodium chicken stock

ly drizzle with olive oil and a healthy sprinkling of salt, and toss to

2½ c. whole milk

combine. Bake for an hour, tossing halfway through. Reserve for later.

Salt and pepper, to taste

Cut the leeks in half, and thoroughly rinse them under cold running water to remove any residual sand or grit, paying special attention between the leaves. Cut into ¼–inch thick half-moons.

In a small bowl, combine the room temperature butter and flour with a fork. This mixture will be the thickening agent, or roux, and it will add a nice glossiness to the soup. Set aside.

38 / EdibleAustin.com

Often bypassed for more common onion varieties, leeks are a true gem of the allium world. They can be utilized the same way you might utilize a yellow onion — say, in a mirepoix, a classic cooking base composed of onion, celery and carrot. However, the flavor leeks impart is milder and sweeter. When sautéed, they caramelize beautifully and possess a melty quality that serves as an amazing base for soups, braises, stews and more.

In fact, they are responsible for all the flavor in the base of the delicious roasted cauliflower and leek soup featured here. Like their stalky relatives, scallions and chives, leeks enjoy refrigerator storage. They also contain a fair amount of sand and grit, so they need a very thorough washing, with extra attention between the leaves, prior to using.

This whole group of ground-dwelling tear inducers often play a supporting role in beloved dishes. However, if they disappeared, even the staunchest onion haters would miss their depth and flavor. Onions and their many varieties prove themselves time and time again to be the unsung heroes of the produce department.

No other produce section ingredient stretches both dollars and flavors quite like the allium.

In a large Dutch oven, heat roughly 2 tablespoons of olive oil on medium heat, and add the leeks. Sauté for about 5–6 minutes, and add chopped rosemary, thyme, garlic, bay leaves and lemon zest.

Sauté for another minute or so, and add the butter/flour mixture.

Sauté for about 1–2 minutes. Cook the raw flour taste out of the roux and get a bit of light caramelization on the leek mixture.

Add the white wine, making sure to scrape up the brown bits on the bottom of the pan, and simmer for 30 seconds. Next, add the chicken stock and milk, stirring to combine. Add in half of the roasted cauliflower, reserving the other half to be added

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back in when the soup is finished cooking.

Bring the soup to a boil, and reduce to simmer. Simmer soup on low for 50–60 minutes. Taste, and add salt and pepper accordingly.

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Turn off the heat, remove the bay leaves and with an immersion blender, lightly blend. You are not looking to eliminate all pieces of cauliflower — just blend some of it in. Now add your reserved roasted cauliflower.

In partnership with

Serve alongside your carb of choice. I recommend a cheesy crouton.

EdibleAustin.com / 39

Sunshine in a Glass: Texas Albariño

by KRISTI WILLIS photography by JENNA NORTHCUTT 40 / EdibleAustin.com

edible VARIETAL

I

n the sun-soaked cafés of Lisbon, Portugal, the tables are

Other winemakers play the long game, letting the grapes hang

crowded with plates piled high with fresh seafood and wine

on the vine, waiting for the sugars to build and the acid to drop,

glasses filled with aromatic, crisp alvarinho. The popular

resulting in a fuller-bodied, complex white. Mei Newsom, wine-

Vinho Verde, named “green wine” because it is picked early, is

maker at Driftwood Estate Winery, won a bronze medal in the

ubiquitous on the Portuguese coast. Although the grape is orig-

San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition for her albariño made

inally from Portugal, it is the Rías Baixas region of Spain that is

from a riper harvest.

best known for albariño, with the versatile white grape accounting for over 90 percent of its plantings.

“My albariño isn’t similar to the Spanish albariño, because they harvest earlier to get the ‘green’ character with more lime and

When harvested early, albariño is bright, high in acidity and full

citrus — sharp and clean on the tongue,” says Newsom. “My

of floral and citrus notes. The budget-friendly Vinho Verde is a

albariño is almost the opposite, because it had full ripeness at

perfect accompaniment for picnics or just hanging out on the

harvest point. I taste a lot of grapefruit character, more white

porch enjoying the summer sun. But don’t dismiss albariño as the

flower like honeysuckle, and it is fuller bodied.”

bubblegum pop of the wine world. When allowed to hang on the vine a little longer or grown in a hotter climate, the wines can take on a richer, rounder note, responding well to oak fermentation and expressing more complexity.

You’ll find both versions in Texas. Some winemakers pick the grapes early in the season, just after they ripen, harvesting in the middle of the night to beat the summer heat and preserve the acidity of the grapes. Rancho Loma Vineyards named their award-winning wine after the late-night picking sessions — Nocturnal Albariño. The result is a light, refreshing albariño with honeysuckle on the nose and bright lemon and lime notes on the palate that make it a perfect match for ceviche or fish tacos.

While the grapes grown in the Texas High Plains produce a strong yield every year, they can cause some challenges for winemakers.

“The skin is very thick, and the grape has a high pH, which makes it more prone to spoil,” says Newsom. “The juice also has a hard time settling, so we have to let it set in the tank longer.”

Despite the challenges, Texas winemakers are investing in albariño, and it is paying off in awards. From Hilmy Cellars’ gold medal and judges’ selection at the 2018 TEXSOM International Wine Awards, to O G Cellars’ silver medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, judges and customers are voting for Texas albariño and some sunshine in their wine glasses.

Where to Find Texas Albariño BINGHAM FAMILY VINEYARDS

2018 Albariño

O G CELLARS

2016 Albariño, Bianca Dolce (a sweet blend that includes Albariño)

CAUDALIE CREST WINERY

2016 Prairie Frost PEDERNALES CELLARS

2016 Albariño

DRIFTWOOD ESTATE WINERY

2018 Albariño

RANCHO LOMA VINEYARDS

2017 Nocturnal Albariño

EDEN HILL VINEYARD

2017 Albariño-Viognier Blend

RON YATES WINES

FIESTA WINERY

2017 Albariño

2016 Albariño — Bingham Family Vineyards

HILMY CELLARS

2018 Albariño

LEWIS WINES

2018 Albariño

SOUTHOLD FARM + CELLAR

2017 Don’t Forget to Soar White Blend

MCPHERSON CELLARS

2016 Albariño

WEDDING OAK WINERY

2017 Albariño

EdibleAustin.com / 41

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Texas Heirloom Our tomatoes ripen on the vine, soaking in the sun to create glorious flavor, rich color, and head-turning size.

Crown a BLT with meaty, Texas-grown beefsteak tomatoes, stuff sweet camparis with salty cheese, or roll orange and yellow bitesized beauties in olive oil with a splash of balsamic. Discover 20 fresh varieties in-store and find your favorites today!

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