edible Indy ®
Celebrating the Local Food Culture of Central Indiana, Season by Season Fall 2012 • Number 6
Falling For Fruit Beyond The Jack-O-Lantern Perfect Pear-ing
Member of Edible Communities
farmers’ market directory Looking for a farmers’ market in your neighborhood?
38th and Meridian Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 4–6:30pm, through October 3808 N. Meridian St., Indianapolis
Here’s a sampling of those found in the Indy area.
Abundant Life Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 4-7pm, through Sept. 29 7606 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis alcindy.com/ALCfarmersmarket.html Avon Farmers’ Market Tuesdays, 4–7pm, through Sept. 13 8244 E. U.S. Highway 36, Avon (Hendricks Regional Health) hendricks.org Binford Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–1pm, through Oct. 27 62nd and Binford Boulevard, Indianapolis binfordfarmersmarket.com Bloomingfoods East Market Wednesday and Saturday mornings, all year round for any growers to show up. bloomingfoods.coop Bloomington Community Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–1pm, Located in the parking lot of the Showers building on Morton St., Bloomington. bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket Broad Ripple Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, through Nov. 17 Located behind Broad Ripple High School, Indianapolis. broadripplefarmersmarket.org Carmel Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8–11:30am, through Oct. 6 5 Center Green, Carmel carmelfarmersmarket.com
in Season Fruit Apples, Grapes, Pears, Watermelon, Persimmons Vegetables Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Collards, Eggplant, Garlic, Leeks, Lettuce, Lima Beans, Mushrooms, Onions, Parsnips, Potatoes, Pumpkins, Radishes, Spinach, Winter Squash, Turnips, Zucchini. Herbs Dill, Parsley
Columbus Farmer's Market Saturdays 9am–12:30pm, through September 5th and Brown St., Columbus columbusfarmersmarket.org Community Farmers’ Market of Owen County Saturdays, 9am–noon, September through October, Courthouse Square, Spencer farmersmarketowencounty.com Cumberland Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, through September 11501 E. Washington St., Cumberland town.cumberland.in.us Danville Chamber of Commerce Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon Danville Courthouse Square danville-chamber.org
Farmers’ Market at City Market Wednesdays, 9:30am–1:30pm through October 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis, indycm.com The Fishers Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, through Sept. 29 Fishers Train Station grounds fisherschamber.com Franklin Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8–11am, through Oct. 6 West Jefferson and South Jackson streets, Franklin, discoverdowntownfranklin.com Geist Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 2:30pm-6:30pm, through September, 8115 Oaklandon Rd., Indianapolis geistfarmersmarket.com Green Market at Traders Point Creamery Fridays, 4–8pm, through October Saturdays, 9am–noon, November through April, 9101 Moore Road, Zionsville tpforganics.com Greenwood Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, through October 310 S. Meridian St., Greenwood For info, search Greenwood Farmers’ Market on Facebook Harvest Market at the Fairgrounds Saturdays and Wednesdays, 8am–noon, through October 620 N. Apple St., Greenfield hancockharvestcouncil.com Indy Winter Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9am-noon, starting Nov.10th 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis indywinterfarmersmarket.org Irvington Farmers’ Market Second Sundays, Noon–3pm, through October Ellenberger Park in Irvington, Indianapolis irvingtongardenclub.com Saxony Market Saturdays, 8am–noon 131st St. & Olio Rd., Fishers saxony-indiana.com/market.html Stadium Village Farmers’ Market Tuesdays, 4–7pm, through September 801 S. Meridian St., Indianapolis stadiumvillagefarmersmarket.com Zionsville Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8-11am, through Sept. 29 At the corner of Main and Hawthorne streets zionsvillefarmersmarket.com
Contents In Season Farmers’ Market Directory
2 4
Hoosier Thoughts Notable Edibles A sweet find in Fortville, Indiana represented at Terra Madre, Bringing back butchers
6 8
Readers Plate Loving Spoonfuls Four Beans, One Soup
10 12 14
Try Topping This Edible Season In The Kitchen With Falling For Fruit
22 28
Five Days Of Food Trucks Liquid Assets Oliver’s Fun Cide(r): Winery’s hard cider catches the eye and pleases the tongue
32
Beyond The Jack-O-Lantern A plethora of pumpkin ideas
36
From The Good Earth A Jewel In The City: South Circle Farm Models Urban Agriculture
38 39 40
Cheers to fall with the Grin and Pear It, a libation with pear-fennel puree and pear vodka and brandy, crafted by bartender Jason Foust of Late Harvest Kitchen. Get the recipe for this sesonal cocktail at edibleindy.com. Photo by Kelley Jordan Heneveld.
Edible Events Advertiser Directory Last Bite Perfect Pear-ing On The Cover: Cranberries With Brandied Shallots by Ryan Nelson chef/owner of Late Harvest Kitchen, story and recipe begin on page 14. Photo by Kelley Jordan Heneveld.
Recipe Index
9 Kitchen Cupboard Bean Soup • 10 The Usual Burger • 11 Pretzel Burger • 11 Long Weekend Burger 11 Demeter Burger 13 Lawrence County Persimmon Festival Persimmon Pudding • 13 Persimmon Tarts 17 Salmon With Sauce Agrodolce19 Pear and Parmesan Salad • 20 Cranberries With Brandied Shallots 35 Pumpkin Souffle • 40 Living Pear Torte
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hoosier Thoughts
Publisher Edible Indy, LLC President Cathy Bayse Editor-in-Chief Helen Workman Managing Editor Erica Sagon Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Designer Melissa Petersen Web Design Mary Ogle Social Media Casey Engelman Ad Design Bob Keller Contributors Audrey Barron • Cathy Bayse Amy Lynch • Andie Marshall Shawndra Miller • Keith Roach Erica Sagon • Sarah Suksiri • Josh Weinfuss Photography Grant Heger • Kelley Jordan Heneveld Christina Richey • Erica Sagon Carole Topalian Advertise Cathy Bayse • 317-694-6248 cathy@edibleindy.com Subscribe Give a Gift www.edibleindy.com • info@edibleindy.com Contact us Edible Indy 8715 Washington Blvd. W. Drive, Indianapolis, IN 46240 317-292-1693 • info@edibleindy.com
Edible Indy publishes quarterly by Edible Indy, LLC. All rights reserved. Summer, Fall, Winter, Spring Subscription $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher © 2012. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies.
I
can’t believe this is our sixth issue of Edible Indy! I’m so thankful and grateful to everyone who helps bring this publication together.
First of all, thanks to our advertisers and subscribers. You see the value in supporting not only Edible Indy but all of us who share the same mission of strengthening our vibrant local food scene. Many of you have been with us for over a year now and more are coming aboard with each issue. Without you we wouldn’t be able to produce this beautiful complimentary publication for our community. Thanks for your partnership and vision. I would also like to thank our talented managing editor, Erica Sagon! She has been a tremendous support and her knowledge has allowed us to put our ideas on paper. And our contributors, whose words and photos connect readers with our local food community. And our designer, who brings the pages to life and makes it all work—we love you, Melissa! And many thanks to our wonderful readers, whose enthusiasm continues to put smiles on our faces and gives us that extra juice to make each issue better than the last! In this issue we are launching a regular column called “Reader’s Plate,” dedicated to our readers’ personal local food stories. Read our first column in this issue and be inspired to submit your own story! As much as I hate to see the summer end, I think we can agree the heat did us in this year. More than ever, now is the time to support our local farmers as the drought and heat had a big impact on their businesses. Be sure to check out our directories of farmers’ markets and advertisers in each issue. Continue to visit their stores and stands and buy their products. Now let’s bring on the fall weather. Let’s pull out our sweatshirts, warm up the cider and get out for a brisk walk though the apple orchards and pumpkin patches. And if you are looking to do that one last cookout, read our story on how to build hamburgers with local ingredients. Or if you are ready to head back to your indoor kitchen, check out our story on Chef Ryan Nelson from Late Harvest Kitchen. He is cooking with fall fruit and has some amazing recipes! Cheers,
edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year
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notable edibles A Sweet Find in Fortville 10 S. Main St. is the address of an old five-and-dime store in downtown Fortville that has been transformed into a lively ice cream parlor and art gallery. A quick drive from the northeast side of Indy, where Hamilton, Marion and Hancock counties merge, is where you will find this great little town and this sweet-tooth hangout. At the aptly named Indulge, the star is a late-’40s soda fountain complete with spinning stools. That’s where guests can order up all kinds of confections, from ice cream to fizzy drinks to candy. Indulge is open daily. Owner Lenzy Hendrix, a Fortville native, converted the building into a “grown-up spot where you can bring the kids” and, well, indulge a bit. He describes it as a place “where Lady Gaga fuses with Willie Wonka.” Couches and chairs invite guests to linger over their coffee or handmade malts, milk shakes, sodas and cherry Cokes. Behind the fountain, candy is on display, from kids’ favorites like M&M’s and suckers to gourmet chocolates and truffles, sourced from Good’s Candy Shop in Anderson. For a surreal Willie Wonka–style treat, order an ice cream sandwich made with ginormous cookies, made in house. Indulge is also home to an eclecticart marketplace that evokes Lady Gaga and changes seasonally. Twelve local artists display and sell their wares. Hendrix tells of the venue’s original owners who, in 1948, opened the five-and-dime with the same soda fountain. The Heche The award winning banana split at Indulge brothers created a signature drink that Hendrix still serves today—the marshmallow Coke. This delicious concoction comes with a dose of drama: The drink could burst in your face if it’s not made correctly, by placing a straw in the Coke prior to ladling on the marshmallow cream.
—Cathy Bayse Details: 10 S. Main St., Fortville. Monday through Saturday 11-3pm and 6pm-10pm , Sunday 6 to 10pm 317-660-4460
Indiana Represented at Terra Madre Four Indiana natives have been selected to join thousands from around the globe in Turin, Italy, for Terra Madre, Slow Food International’s biennial meeting. Terra Madre draws delegates from 130 countries—including farmers, artisans and policy makers—all striving to do nothing less than change the world through food. Joining the 220-strong U.S. delegation this October will be Todd and Kathleen Jameson of FarmIndy, Kirsten Serrano of Lafayette’s Small Wonder farm and La Scala restaurant, and Indianapolisborn food activist Jennifer Burns. Todd Jameson is also a delegate to Slow Food’s International Congress, held every five years and this year happening in conjunction with Terra Madre. This group will shape the direction of the organization’s global work and present a document detailing the critical need for a healthy food system. A prime attraction is the Salone del Gusto, “an eco-gastronome’s dream come true,” says Todd Jameson. This international trade show features traditional foods from around the world, many on the verge of extinction due to the impact of global industrialization. “We’re working hard to preserve food culture in Third World countries that have yet to be subject to large-scale agribusiness and industrialized farming methods,” Jameson says. “We believe traditional agriculture could be and should be the backbone of our food system.” Slow Food International, the growing movement that promotes sustainable food and traditional agriculture, has opened the five-day gathering to the public for the first time, and anticipates some 200,000 attendees.
—Shawndra Miller Details: TerraMadre.org
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Bringing Back Butchers Cellophane-wrapped steaks, beware: The Savory Swine is changing the way Columbus shops for meats. Lisa Abendroth opened her specialty meat shop in downtown Columbus this summer to offer high-quality meats coupled with corner-store customer service. In addition to gourmet gelato, imported cheeses and hard-to-find wines, the glass cases at The Savory Swine showcase a seasonal cast of hormone- and antibiotic-free meats. Custom cuts are encouraged. “If you see New York strip steaks, but you don’t like the thickness of them, we’ll cut you a new one,” she says. You can watch Skip Chambers and
Pop Culture
Rovair Whitehead, the shop’s two
Indy’s best salty-sweet popcorn treats for fall
butchers, do just that. Wide windows wrap around the in-store cutting room
Sweet corn season has come and gone, but popcorn vendors are ready to take the reins
where the butchers work, giving cus-
and wow us with their fluffy, flavorful creations.
tomers a peek at the art of meat
With two Broad Ripple stores and a kiosk at the Indianapolis International Airport, Just Pop In (JustPopInOnline.com) offers a dazzlingly colorful display of caramel corn. Yummy
cutting—something that supermarkets have nearly eliminated.
fall-themed flavors include pumpkin spice, green apple and an orange variety drizzled
Such service means that unusual cuts—
with white and dark chocolate just perfect for Halloween. Football fans cheer the vibrant
like tri-tip, a cut of sirloin more com-
blueberry “Hut” popcorn from the Pop Life collection, a nod to Indy’s home team.
monly found in Abendroth’s native California—are now available for the
Zionsville-based Inga’s Popcorn (IngasPopcorn.com) exploded onto the local scene last
asking. Gourmands can savor the
year, distinguished by its use of certified organic popcorn grown by Mozingo Farms in
Swine’s jalapeño burger patties and
Brownsburg and made-from-scratch caramel recipes. In addition to selling at farmers’
dry-aged pork chops, and fans of Indi-
markets and online, the company has opened a store in Bloomington where customers
anapolis’ Smoking Goose Meatery will
can consider flavors like signature caramel, snickerdoodle and white cheddar. Look for a
find its cured and smoked meats and
decadent turtle-ish caramel with pecans and chocolate to make an appearance for the
sausages in stock.
holidays. To complete the meal, the shop also Customers have to keep an eye on Twitter or Facebook to learn the daily location of
features a wine-tasting counter and
Scout’s Treat Truck (ScoutsTreats.com), but the indulgent cupcakes and savory popcorn
plenty of recommendations to help
make the effort well worthwhile. The popcorn line features caramel, Chicago mix, sharp
customers find the perfect bottle for
cheddar, jalapeño, and sour cream and chives, with caramel apple and additional flavors
the perfect cut.
set to debut this fall. And, Scout’s new cupcake-and-popcorn bar at BE, The Boutique in South Broad Ripple, serves as a fun stationary destination for sampling the goods.
—Amy Lynch
—Sarah Suksiri Details: 410 Washington St., Columbus; 812-657-7752; TheSavorySwine.com
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readers plate
Season’s P Eatings
otlucks bring to mind baking dishes oozing with cheese or canned cream of mushroom soup. What if a potluck focused instead on in-season ingredients that are locally, organically grown?
That’s the idea behind a regular pitch-in dinner among friends in the Fletcher Place neighborhood, southeast of downtown. Middle school teacher Julia Phoebus and friends pulled together a potluck dinner every month for a year, and still eat together seasonally. Phoebus tell us all about it:
Sharing the health and wealth of local foods, potluck style
Julia Phoebus (2nd row second from left) and friends. Photo by Helen Workman.
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“When I moved to Indianapolis, I found that it was sometimes difficult getting to know people, but over a meal at someone’s house a natural connection takes place. I started hosting Sunday lunches for friends and neighbors once a month, similar to a tradition that I started with my college roommates at the University of Florida. “Last year, I was chatting with a friend from graduate school about local vs. organic food and what either of those terms actually means. We decided to host Local Organic Potlucks once a month all through 2011. We missed just one, and our group grew to 30 at its largest.
Fall 2012
“The name says it all. For the most part, dishes are made with inseason ingredients that are grown locally and organically. We gather food from farmers’ markets, specialty shops and our own gardens. Our most recent gathering, in June, had a Summer Solstice theme. The menu included baked tomatoes from the farmers’ market, stuffed with kale, peppers and Traders Point Creamery’s pepper jack cheese; chicken sliders with a homemade blueberry-barbecue sauce; salad with kale from a friend’s garden; and beer from Upland Brewing Company. “Now, our dinners are seasonal rather than monthly, and they are hosted and coordinated by a core group: myself; Patrick Burtch, my grad school friend; and Graham and Angela Hogg, the farmer behind Sprout Urban Farm. “With so much produce in season, fall is the perfect time to start a local, organic potluck tradition of your own. Winter is more challenging, but dishes might shift to root vegetables and meat from farmers in the region. Try shopping at the Indy Winter Farmers’ Market at the City Market building downtown. “I love the food aspect of a potluck, but connecting people is great, too. Friends are encouraged to bring guests that are new to the group. In fact, one couple met at our December potluck. “Cloth napkins, fresh flowers and candles add to the ambiance. Friends can lend dishes and chairs if you come up short. And while a Facebook invite is OK, I’ve been mailing handmade invitations to guests. It just feels good to be intentionally invited to something.” —As told to Erica Sagon
A seasonal potluck brings together friends and local food. Photo by Christopher Stuart.
Find potluck recipes from Phoebus and friends at EdibleIndy.com Tell us about your tastiest food experiences, traditions and memories, and your story might be featured here. Write to us at info@edibleindy.com.
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loving spoonfuls
I am one of those people who will clip a recipe with every intention of making it soon, but I seldom do. That had to be what happened years ago, the only explanation I can think of for the wide assortment of canned beans I discovered recently while going through my cupboard. Cannellini beans, kidney beans and chickpeas are not items that I normally keep on hand. The cans were near their expiration dates and I wanted to use them, but I could not remember which recipes I had planned for them. As usual, my solution was to make a soup. Over the years, the recipe has changed. I now prefer the flavor obtained by cooking dried beans rather than using canned. But, if pinched for time, you can substitute 14ounce cans, drained and rinsed, and eliminate the cooking time for the beans. Initially, I made my own stock but there are many good varieties in today’s markets and you can use whichever you prefer. For a heartier soup, use beef stock and add slices of cooked smoked sausage or chopped ham. Use vegetable stock for a heart-healthier, lower-calorie soup.
Four Beans, One Soup BY ANDIE MARSHALL PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA RICHEY
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Marshall is a home cook whose fondness for soup began when she was a working mom. With soups, she always had nutritious, homemade and reheatable meals on hand.
Fall 2012
Photo by Christina Richey
The two best things about this soup are that you can add or substitute just about any type of bean, and that it tastes even better the second day.
KITCHEN CUPBOARD BEAN SOUP By Andie Marshall Serves 8
½ cup dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight ½ cup dried kidney beans, soaked overnight 1 medium yellow onion, diced 1 cup carrots, diced 1 cup celery, diced 3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh oregano 1 large bay leaf 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 (14-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes 1 teaspoon granulated sugar 1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 (14-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 3 quarts chicken broth, or vegetable or beef stock ½ teaspoon chili powder Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
1.
Drain the cannellini and kidney beans. Place each in a separate medium-sized pot; cover beans with water by 2–3 inches. Bring water to a full boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for about 50 minutes, just until tender. Then, drain the beans.
2.
While the beans are cooking, dice onion, carrots and celery. Slice the garlic.
3.
Make an herb bundle by tying together the parsley, rosemary, thyme, oregano and bay leaf.
4.
Heat olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Sauté the onion, carrots, celery and garlic for 4 minutes; season with salt and pepper to taste.
5.
To the pot, add the diced tomatoes (including liquid), sugar, cooked cannellini and kidney beans (drained), canned chickpeas and black beans (rinsed and drained) and the stock.
6.
Add the tied bundle of herbs, chili powder, salt and pepper.
7.
Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, until beans are completely tender but not mushy.
8.
Remove the bundle of herbs before serving. Garnish with grated Parmesan cheese and/or toasted slices of thick Italian bread.
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TRY TOPPING THIS Building hamburgers with local ingredients BY ERICA SAGON PHOTOS BY GRANT HEGER
It’s the last hurrah for summer cookouts and what better way to say farewell than with hamburgers on the grill. Patties are a blank slate, ready to take on any combination of toppings. Here are ideas for hamburgers festooned with local fixings. Each one calls for your favorite buns and beef patties, unless otherwise noted.
THE USUAL Upgrade a classic burger starting with onions buns from Scholars Inn Bakehouse in Bloomington (scholarsinn.com). The Bakehouse serves its own burgers on these buns, which are now for sale as a bakery item. Up next is ketchup from LocalFolks Foods, a homemade-tasting, textured variety without high-fructose corn syrup ($5.50, localfolksfoods.com). Deck out the burger with lettuce, onion and tomato from the farmers’ market, then finish with an Indiana classic: hamburger dills from Sechler’s Pickles, made in St. Joe in the northeast part of the state ($4.15, gourmetpickles.com).
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PRETZEL BURGER The magic in this burger lies in the bun—a pretzel bun, to be exact, from A Taste of Philly bakery ($1 each, indypretzel.com), toasted and lined with Hard Working Grain Mustard from Farm Bloomington ($5.50, farm-bloomington.com) Top the burger with caramelized onions and a melted drape of Jegerlehner Swiss cheese from The Swiss Connection of Clay City ($11.50 per pound, swissconnectioncheese.com).
DEMETER BURGER Give your next cookout a Greek spin with this burger, named after a goddess of agriculture. Instead of beef, this one calls for Viking lamb patties, butchered and ground at Goose the Market (vikinglamb.com, goosethemarket.com). Top with Goose’s house-cured olives, feta from Swissland Cheese Co. of Berne ($6.50, swisslandcheese.com) and layers of sliced cucumber and onion from the farmers’ market. Whip up a quick tzatziki using Traders Point Creamery’s plain yogurt ($5, tpforganics.com). Add chopped cucumber and minced garlic and dill to the yogurt for the perfect sauce that unites all of the toppings.
LONG WEEKEND When the three toppings on this burger unite, the flavor reminds us of something we’d eat on vacation. Top the patty with a fried egg sourced from the farmers’ market and a fan of avocado slices (no, they’re not grown locally, but we’ll make an exception for this irresistible summer staple). For some heat, heap on a couple spoonfuls of Fermenti Artisan’s curtido, a finely shredded mix of fermented cabbage, carrots, onions, chiles and cilantro ($8, facebook.com/fermentiartisan). Fermenters Mark Cox and Joshua Henderson source from their urban farm to make this spicy slaw.
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edible season
Sweet tart
Persimmons offer a fall bounty of possibilities BY AMY LYNCH
This humble little fruit is revered in southern portions of the state, where persimmon trees are common. Without question, the most popular preparation is persimmon pudding, a spiced gingerbread-like cake served in scoops or squares with a dollop of whipped cream on top.
For some, persimmons signal one thing: It’s fall. For other, it means—well—not much at all. The Southern Indiana gem is less known even as far north as Indianapolis. In the fall, pastry chef Cindy Hawkins tucks persimmon tarts and bread pudding into the display case at Circle City Sweets, her bakery located at Indianapolis City Market. But Hawkins, who is from Plymouth, says she didn’t come across the southern fruit in northern Indiana. “I had never heard of or seen persimmons until I was the pastry chef at the [former] Tavern at the Temple,” Hawkins says. “Chef Brad Gates got a box of them in and said, ‘Cindy, make something with
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these.’ I didn’t even know how to cut into one; Brad had to show me. Then I started researching recipes.” Bearing a slight resemblance to a plum, the dusky-orange Indiana fruit is not to be confused with the larger tomato-sized Fuyu variety that originated in Northern Asia and Japan. Fuyu persimmons can be found in grocery stores and are more appropriate for raw preparations in salads and other recipes; Indiana persimmons are more often than not processed into pulp. “The Indiana ones are much smaller, and I think they are better for puréeing,” Hawkins says. “If I want to use slices for a dessert, I typically pick up the Fuyu persimmons.” Persimmon season typically starts in September and lasts through the first frost. According to tradition, Indiana persimmons are best gathered only after the fruit has ripened completely and fallen to the ground. Patience counts: Biting into an astringent persimmon too early can cause a serious mouth pucker, but when they are fully ripe the taste is rich, mellow and sweet.
Caveat emptor: Prepping persimmons for puréeing requires something of a commitment. After gathering, the fruit must be thoroughly washed and then strained through a food mill or colander to remove the seeds and skins. The end result is the prized pulp that can be incorporated into cakes, muffins, breads, sauces and, of course, persimmon pudding. Or, try this timesaver: Fresh persimmon pulp is available seasonally at farmers’ markets, orchards and natural food stores. Apple Acres (812-279-9721) on S.R. 37 north of Mitchell offers local persimmon pulp at its general store in the fall, and Persimmon Pleasures (PersimmonPleasures.com) in Bedford sells and ships frozen pulp (as well as persimmon chocolate chip cookies) yearround. Expect to pay between $5 and $8 per pint. Want to simply enjoy the fruit without all the labor? Persimmon pudding stays on the dessert menu year-round at the Spring Mill Inn (877-563-4371) at Spring Mill State Park in Mitchell.
Fall 2012
Photo from istockphoto.com
W
hen fall rolls around, persimmons pack a potent punch of authentic Hoosier flavor.
LAWRENCE COUNTY PERSIMMON FESTIVAL PERSIMMON PUDDING From the Lawrence County Tourism Commission A past Mitchell Persimmon Festival recipe contest winner, this old-fashioned persimmon pudding is a fairly representative example of the classic Southern Indiana preparation. This traditional Hoosier dessert is best served warm, cut into squares and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream. Makes one 9- by 13-inch baking dish
PERSIMMON TARTS By Cindy Hawkins, Circle City Sweets Hawkins often makes these pretty little tarts for her Circle City Sweets display case in the fall, along with an occasional persimmon bread pudding for good measure. Makes 6 tarts For the gingersnap crust:
1.
In a food processor, process the gingersnaps with salt.
2.
Add melted butter and vanilla and pulse until incorporated. Press into 6 tart pans. Set aside while preparing the persimmon filling.
1.
Peel and slice two of the persimmons ¼ inch thick. Keep 6 slices for centers of tarts. Dice the rest of the two persimmons to make ⅔ cup and set aside.
2.
Peel the remaining persimmons and place in food processor. Purée and measure out 1 cup. Put the 1 cup of purée back into the processor and add the milk, brown sugar and egg. Process for about 8 seconds.
3.
In small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Add dry ingredients to the food processor and pulse until incorporated. Add the melted butter and pulse until incorporated. Add the chopped persimmons, raisins, walnuts, orange peel and ginger and pulse twice.
4.
Pour the filling into the crusts. Smooth the surface and top each tart with a persimmon slice.
5.
Bake for about 35 minutes at 275° until a knife inserted about an inch from the edge comes out clean. Cool completely on a rack. Brush a little corn syrup on the persimmon to keep it from drying out.
2½ cups gingersnap crumbs 2 pinches salt 6½ tablespoon butter, melted ¾ teaspoon vanilla
For the persimmon filling: 5 Fuyu persimmons
2 cups Indiana persimmon pulp 2 cups sugar 3 eggs 1½ cups buttermilk 1 teaspoon baking soda 1½ cups flour ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking powder ¼ cup butter, melted ¼ cup milk ½ teaspoon vanilla
⅔ cup milk ½ cup brown sugar 1 egg ⅔ cup flour ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter, melted 3 tablespoons raisins ⅓ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped 2 teaspoons candied orange peel 2 teaspoons candied ginger, chopped
1.
Mix persimmon pulp, sugar and eggs, then add buttermilk with baking soda stirred in. Sift flour, salt, cinnamon and baking powder and add to wet ingredients.
2.
Mix in the butter, milk and vanilla.
3.
Pour mixture into a greased 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Bake at 325° for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
It’s A Persimmon Party
Situated about 10 miles south of Bedford, the little town of Mitchell takes its persimmons so seriously, it celebrates the fruit with a festival each September. George Bishop, a former local teacher, principal and school superintendent, is credited with founding the popular Lawrence County event 66 years ago. The festivities have grown through the years, now drawing more than 100,000 people to town for a full week of all things persimmon including recipe contests, carnival rides and a parade. The 2012 Mitchell Persimmon Festival runs Sept. 22–29 and is sponsored by the Greater Mitchell Chamber of Commerce. For more information, visit PersimmonFestival.org.
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in the kitchen with
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Fall 2012
falling for fruit Pies are pleasant and tarts are tasty, but autumn fruits shine in savory dishes, too. BY ERICA SAGON PHOTOS BY KELLEY JORDAN HENEVELD
W
hen it comes to dessert, Ryan Nelson, the chef/owner of Late Harvest Kitchen, possesses the restraint we probably all wish we had: He’s not too crazy about sweet stuff.
So when Edible Indy asked him to share savory fall recipes that call for fruit—that meant no pies, no tarts, no crumbles—we had unwittingly picked the right chef for the job. The impulse when contemplating fruit in the kitchen is to tuck it into buttery dough, but fruit also excels at perking up pork, poultry, fish and other produce, even into the late months of the season. “You need to have brightness in your food,” says Nelson, and fruit does the trick in the cooler weather. Nelson opened Late Harvest Kitchen late last year at Keystone at the Crossing. His seasonally
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Ryan Nelson, the chef/owner of Late Harvest Kitchen, shares savory recipes that call for fall fruit.
driven menu and relaxed but elegant dining room is quite welcome in the middle of chain-ville. Cooking with autumn fruit is a chance to use apples and pears from farmers’ markets and orchards. Nelson visits Apple Works in Trafalgar, about an hour south of Indianapolis, to gather local apples—but also get “good photo moments” with his wife and their 2-year-old son. Nelson suggests adding apples to a salmon dish and slicing pears into a salad with bacon and Parmesan (see accompanying recipes). He’s also thought up a twist on a Thanksgiving staple—cranberries— which aren’t grown in central Indiana, but are local to Nelson, in a way. Nelson, who is from Minnesota, recalls driving to his family’s cabin in Wisconsin when he was young and seeing “fields of brilliant
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red” out the car window—those were cranberry bogs, many of which supplied Ocean Spray. His remake of cranberry sauce calls for brandied shallots.
“You need to have brightness in your food.” At Late Harvest Kitchen, Nelson, 36, hones in on seasonal ingredients and finds them locally when possible. An herb garden on the restaurant’s patio keeps the kitchen supplied with rosemary, basils, mints, marjoram, sage, thyme and cilantro. And the staff is known to share produce from their own gardens. Nelson got his start at the Oceanaire Seafood Room, first in Minnesota, then in downtown Indianapolis, where he was the executive chef. That might explain his intrepid preparation of salmon with apples. A filet is pan-seared and topped with agrodolce sauce, an Italian sauce that blends sweetness and acidity. Nelson’s version has chopped apples, golden raisins and smoked almonds. “A lot of people wouldn’t traditionally pair fruit with seafood, but with salmon I think it’s an awesome pairing,” Nelson says. Nelson crafted a similar salmon dish with cherries for the summer menu at Late Harvest Kitchen. In imagining a pear salad, Nelson thought of this old Italian saying: Eating pears and Parmesan can make a peasant feel like a king, if only for a moment.
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Both are combined with thick hunks of bacon and tossed with arugula from Harvestland Farm or FarmIndy. Meanwhile, Nelson’s cranberry dish came about the first Thanksgiving that Nelson spent with his future wife.
Name Address City State ZIP
He wasn’t planning to make cranberries, but she insisted, knowing that her dad would love it. Nelson made the dish a day ahead so that the flavor and texture would come together overnight. And what did his future father-in-law think? “He thought it was great,” Nelson says, adding that he’s made it for several Thanksgivings since then. “Sometimes the best dishes are the ones you throw together at the end.”
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Details: Late Harvest Kitchen, 8605 River Crossing Blvd., Indianapolis; 317-663-8063; lateharvestkitchen.com Consider fall fruit for cocktails, too. Late Harvest Kitchen bartender Jason Foust crafted two pear cocktails — one called the French Rose (pear brandy, rosemary simple syrup and ginger liqueur) and the Grin and Pear It (pear-fennel puree and pear vodka and brandy). Find the recipes at edibleindy.com.
Fall 2012
SALMON WITH SAUCE AGRODOLCE
“A lot of people wouldn’t traditionally pair fruit with seafood, but with salmon I think it’s an awesome pairing.”
Recipe by Chef Ryan Nelson Serves 2 ¼ cup smoked whole almonds (Blue Diamond label recommended) 3 tablespoons butter, unsalted ½ cup apples, diced ¼ cup golden raisins 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped Zest of half an orange 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons olive oil
Photo by Kelley Jordan Heneveld
2 salmon filets
1.
Toast the almonds in a sauté pan.
2.
Add the butter and cook until almost browned.
3.
Add the apples and the golden raisins. When the raisins have plumped, add the chopped herbs and the orange zest. Cook until the zest becomes slightly crisp.
4.
Meanwhile, season the salmon filets with the salt and pepper. Place a nonstick pan over medium-high heat.
5.
After 30 seconds, add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When the pan is almost smoking, add the salmon.
6.
Cook on one side for 2 minutes, then flip the filets and place in a 350° oven for 5–6 minutes.
7.
Remove from the pan and place on a serving dish. Spoon the sauce agrodolce over the salmon filets.
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PEAR AND PARMESAN SALAD By Chef Ryan Nelson Serves 2 1 red pear, sliced thin ¼ cup high-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely shredded ¼ cup cooked, diced bacon ¼ pound arugula, washed and destemmed 4 tablespoons vinaigrette (recipe follows), more or less to taste Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
1.
Combine all ingredients and add vinaigrette. Toss well.
2.
Place in a serving dish and add additional Parmigiano-Reggiano to garnish.
For the vinaigrette: 1 shallot, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a knife ½ cup Dijon mustard 1 egg yolk ½ cup red wine vinegar 1¾ cup olive oil Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
Combine all ingredients but the olive oil in a blender.
2.
Turn the blender on and slowly drizzle in the olive oil until the vinaigrette emulsifies.
Photo by Kelley Jordan Heneveld
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CRANBERRIES WITH BRANDIED SHALLOTS By Chef Ryan Nelson Serves 6 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoon balsamic vinegar ¼ cup brandy 10 shallots, medium size, peeled and left whole 2 tablespoons thyme leaves 12 ounces cranberries ¼ cup brown sugar ½ cup water
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1.
Combine the olive oil, sugar, balsamic vinegar and brandy. Pour over the shallots and place in a baking dish.
2.
Add the thyme leaves and season with salt and pepper.
3.
Cover with dish with foil and place in a 500° oven for 18–20 minutes
4.
Remove the foil and place back in the oven for another 3–5 minutes, until the shallots are caramelized. Set aside.
5.
Place the cranberries, brown sugar and water in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer for 20 minutes, until some of the cranberries begin to break down slightly. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
6.
Combine the cranberries and the brandied shallots in a serving dish.
7.
Refrigerate overnight. Serve the dish between cold and room temperature.
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Photo by Kelley Jordan Heneveld
Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
Fall 2012
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FIVE DAYS OF FOOD TRUCKS
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What’s it like in the world of restaurants on the go? One hungry reporter finds out. BY JOSH WEINFUSS PHOTOS BY KELLEY JORDAN HENEVELD
D
usk was settling over Broad Ripple Park as it emptied out on a humid Wednesday in July. It was a classic summer scene as a few people, trying to soak up any last minute of a sunny day, lingered at the pool and the shadows of the umbrellas on deck-side tables started to grow. Across the parking lot, a newer staple of summer was unfolding. Eleven food trucks from across Indianapolis had rounded up, bumper to fender, to sell their fare to a nonstop flow of hungry Hoosiers. This was Cluster Truck, a mid-week gathering of mobile eats. I didn’t know where to start or what to eat. Should I get brick-oven pizza (Byrne’s Grilled Pizza) or New York–style pizza (The NY Slice)? Mac and cheese (Mac Genie) or tacos (Taco Lassi)? That was a Wednesday, and I was in the middle of a very tasty mission: I was spending a week eating at Indianapolis food trucks to see what the hype was all about. For five days I ate either lunch or dinner—or both—at one of these of mobile restaurants. I saw the good (often) and the bad (few and far between). I never ate a truly bad meal and everything was affordable. In fact, all but one meal was under $10. Wait times were reasonable: Truck food isn’t as quick as fast food, but it’s not as slow as a sit-down restaurant, either. I usually waited five or 10 minutes for my meal. Healthy portions were scooped into take-out containers or cradled in foil. I didn’t introduce myself as a reporter at the trucks, so I had a regular diner’s experience. One week was hardly enough to take in the variety of this city’s fledgling food truck fleet. I had a gourmet hamburger, shrimp curry, fries loaded with pulled pork and a trio of tacos. But there’s so much more: gluten-free, Paleo-diet food at Caveman Truck; Korean barbecue from Seoul Grill; baked potatoes at Circle City Spuds; vegetarian nachos from Nacho Mama’s; pasta and cannoli from Little Eataly; and cupcakes from Scout’s Treat Truck.
FOOD TRUCKS 101 I was surprised to learn that Indy has roughly 50 active food trucks, according to @IndyFoodTruck, a Twitter account that’s run by Matt Hanger, a software engineer. His Twitter feed is essential to foodtruck enthusiasts, because Hanger tweets and retweets locations of food trucks across the city every day. www.edibleindy.com
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Food trucks have been popular on both coasts for more than 10 years, but portable restaurants have become a legit phenomenon in the past five years—and even more recently in Indianapolis. While a few trucks have been navigating the Circle City for the last couple of years, the Super Bowl in February was the unofficial launch for many trucks, which are now a favorite—and a staple—destination for lunch around downtown Indianapolis, mostly by Monument Circle, and around Broad Ripple at dinner. “To have the city and the Super Bowl say, ‘Hey, we’re going to support the food trucks,’ it was a great confidence boost for everybody,” said Nitin Naidu, owner of Spice Box, a truck that serves Indian food. “It was a great endorsement. That created a sense of legitimacy.” While the majority of Indy’s food trucks are in their first year, most said they’ll try to be a year-round option. But prime season typically runs from April to September or later, rain or shine, day or night. “I think one of the biggest challenges is how can we be smarter than winter,” says Lisa Moyer, owner of Scout’s Treat Truck, which is devoted to snacks like cupcakes and popcorn. “You have to think outside the box so we’re [operating] 365 days out of the year, 12 months, instead of eight or nine.”
TWEET TO EAT Tracking down a truck isn’t difficult, if you know where to look. Twitter points diners in the right direction. The social network has become the leading place to find the trucks’ real-time locations—in a concise 140 characters or less, of course. Twitter was indeed the first place I went during my week of food-truck feasting. Before heading to Cluster Truck, a weekly happening on Wednesdays at various locations in Indy, I checked Twitter (searching for #ClusterTruck) and saw mac and cheese from Mac Genie in my future. Meanwhile, Indy’s largest food truck gathering, First Friday Food Truck Festival, is at Old National Centre every month. At other times, the trucks are peppered throughout the city—stationed outside a brewery or at a farmers’ market, parked near a busy intersection or appearing at events that draw a big crowd—making social media essential. When a mechanical problem means a no-show or trouble finding a parking spot causes delays, it’s all chronicled online for potential diners to see. “It’s our bloodline,” Moyer, of Scout’s Treat Truck, says of Twitter and Facebook. For all the business social media can bring to a truck, it can also do the opposite. Owners are acutely aware of what a bad review on Twitter or Yelp can mean for their truck.
you as a truck. If you get a good reputation on social media it can make you as a truck.”
FARM TO STREET As I grazed the mobile food scene, I kept an eye out for locally sourced ingredients. Food truck fanatics point to Duos as Indy’s poster truck for local sourcing. Glance at the menu, and you might find ham from downtown’s Smoking Goose, kale from an urban farm and bread from Amelia’s, the artisan bakery inside Bluebeard, a new Fountain Square restaurant. But for the majority of truck operators I spoke with, gathering local ingredients has been tougher than expected for a variety of reasons. “Initially, the thought process was we could find a bigger chunk of our menu locally but it’s just not feasible,” says Naidu, of Spice Box. “Either it’s because of availability or price. It’s not due to lack of wanting to do it, but it’s not as feasible.” Spice Box gathers tomatoes from local farmers’ markets and Naidu’s sister’s garden, and about 15% of its chicken comes from Gunthorp Farms in Lagrange, Indiana. Perry of Taco Lassi said it’s difficult for him to source locally because his truck is always on the move. “It makes it hard when you don’t have a storefront to get deliveries,” Perry said. “You can’t get scheduled deliveries. We have a goal to do that sort of thing.”
MEALS ON FOUR WHEELS When I set out on this delicious expedition, I knew of a few trucks I wanted to hit, but for the most part I didn’t have an itinerary. At each truck, I chose something on the menu that was unique and sounded tasty. I end the week a few pounds heavier and very impressed. Here’s a look at where I went, what I ate and how it tasted.
TUESDAY LUNCH Who: Groovy Guys Gourmet Fries (on Twitter: @GroovyGuysFries) Where: Corner of North Meridian Street and Monument Circle What: Pulled pork fries, with BBQ pork, cheese and jalapeños Cost: $6 Who doesn’t like fries? Especially ones topped with cheese and meat? These fries didn’t disappoint. The pork is locally sourced and the BBQ sauce was more sweet than spicy, which was a nice way to balance the jalapeños. And the combination of the cheese and the seasoning on the fries was a perfect touch. The huge portion was plenty for lunch.
“That’s where food trucks’ names are made—on social media,” said Adam Perry, owner of Taco Lassi, which serves tacos with an Indian spin. “I think if you get a bad reputation on social media it can kill
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The Chuck Wagon menu board.
Spice Box serves up butter chicken, shrimp curry and other Indian dishes.
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Pulled pork fries, with BBQ pork, cheese and jalapeños from Groovy Guys Gourmet Fries. Photo by Josh Weinfuss
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WEDNESDAY LUNCH
FOOD TRUCKS JOIN FORCES Lisa Moyer figured out quickly that if food trucks teamed together they could be more successful and effective than if they worked alone. Her Scout’s Treat Truck joined with a dozen or so other likeminded food-trucks operators to form the Indiana Food Truck Alliance. Together, the operators formed a code of ethics that includes a respect of restaurants and code enforcement. They won’t park within 100 feet of restaurants and if city code enforcement asks them to move, they do so without argument. The group meets at least once a week to put on Cluster Truck, a gathering of the trucks somewhere around Indy. Their location can be found on Twitter by using the hash tag #ClusterTruck. The grouping has also helped them become more successful. Moyer said the alliance has joined the J. W. Marriott’s extended catering staff, so when the hotel is planning menus for large groups they could opt to have a meal featuring food trucks. Some or all of the IFTA works corporate events together, as well. “It’s kind of an organic thing that sprung up,” says Adam Perry, owner of Taco Lassi, one of the trucks in the alliance. “They’re definitely our kind of trucks.”
—Josh Weinfuss
Who: Spice Box (@SpiceBoxIndy) Where: At Market and Pennsylvania streets What: Butter chicken and shrimp curry with white rice and naan Cost: $9 This was my second option for lunch after another truck said it would be a 15-minute wait at the peak of the lunch hour while it caught up on orders. I ordered a two-dish entrée, and picked butter chicken and shrimp curry. I’ve never been a big fan of Indian food, but Spice Box appealed to me—and likely to the masses—with its moderate heat. I would have liked more rice to soak up the generous scoops of chicken and shrimp.
WEDNESDAY DINNER Who: Mac Genie (@MacGenieTruck) Where: Cluster Truck at Broad Ripple Park What: Buffalo chicken mac and cheese Cost: $8 I almost never pass up an opportunity to get buffalo chicken mac and cheese, and this was among the best I’ve ever had. It wasn’t overly spicy to the point where you couldn’t enjoy it, and the drizzle of ranch dressing was just enough to cool it perfectly.
THURSDAY LUNCH Who: West Coast Tacos (@WestCoastTacos) Where: Corner of Illinois and Ohio streets What: A three-taco combination of pork, chicken and steak Cost: $7.25 The pork was my favorite of the three tacos. Meanwhile, the steak and chicken tasted oddly similar. I was hoping for a bit more variety in flavor. Street tacos come with minimal topping, letting the meat and seasoning shine through. These had a memorable kick.
FRIDAY LUNCH
The food truck scene is especially hot in Indy, but trucks roam the streets of Bloomington and Columbus, too: •
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The Big Cheeze truck slings grilled cheese sandwiches with a twist in Bloomington. The sandwiches are stuffed with fun ingredients like buffalo chicken, pulled pork and macaroni and cheese. Find the truck’s locations on Facebook and Twitter.
•
More food cart than food truck, Happy Pig anchors itself at Atlas, a Bloomington bar, for late-night noshing and Sunday afternoon brunch. Pork is the star here. Try the Notorious P.I.G., a pork belly and egg sandwich with maple syrup.
•
Flatrock Flatbread Company brings its mobile wood-fired brick oven to the Columbus Farmers Market to make locally topped pies, with options like onions, chorizo and Smoking Goose saucisson rouge from Savory Swine, a new Columbus meat shop. Find Flatrock on Facebook.
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Who: Johnson’s BBQ Shack (@jbbqshack) Where: Corner of Delaware and Market, in front of City Market What: Rib tips, two-rib sampler and bottle of water Cost: $9 I love BBQ. I mean absolutely love it. And these rib tips were among the most tender, succulent, fall-off-the-bone good as I’ve ever had. Ordering tangy BBQ sauce is a choice you won’t regret (but there are hot and sweet varieties, too). The ribs were a bit dry, but I found out later that even the owners thought the ribs were off that week.
SATURDAY LUNCH Who: Scratch Truck Where: Meridian Street at University Park What: Scratch burger, fries and Mexican Coke Cost: $10.90 This burger was flat-out delicious. Set on a bed of arugula, the patty was juicy and thick. Scratch Truck recommends skipping ketchup, and it was the right choice. The blend of flavors from the gorgonzola and bacon marmalade with the burger, toasted bun and arugula was blissful.
Fall 2012
A three-taco combination of pork, chicken and steak from West Coast Tacos.
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liquid assets
Oliver’s Fun Cide(r) Winery’s hard cider catches the eye and pleases the tongue BY KEITH ROACH
V
isit the Oliver Winery tasting room north of Bloomington and you’ll see countless bottles of wine. There’s the Soft Red, the Cabernet Sauvignon, the Shiraz.
Then, in one corner, you’ll see a decidedly different drink. You can tell it’s different by the colorful, cartoony packaging of its five flavors. On one, a woman defends her blueberry patch from beasts using a skillet named Sal.
This is the winery’s new Beanblossom Hard Cider. An instant hit when it debuted in summer 2011, it’s poised to be many Hoosiers’ preferred potable this fall, thanks to Oliver Winery’s serious attention to fruit flavors and the addition of a less common ingredient: fun. “Breweries always have more fun than wineries,” says Bill Oliver, president and director of winemaking for the winery, the state’s oldest and largest. Now it’s the winery’s turn.
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A LIGHTHEARTED APPROACH Oliver’s ciders come in five flavors: original apple, strawberry, raspberry, peach and blueberry—echoing the fruity notes that are often found in its wine. But in packaging the cider, the winery went a new route: single servings. There are the hefty 500-milliliter aluminum bottles ($4 each) and the handy 250-milliliter cans, wich are sold in packs of four ($8) and individually ($2). The cider—which is technically an apple wine because of its alcohol content—has caught on quickly since its release last summer. Its equally colorful, shed-shaped display cases have popped up seemingly everywhere, throughout Indiana and beyond. It is sold in 22 states, from Florida to North Dakota. In Indiana, it is sold at independent groceries and liquor stores, some restaurants and bars, and chains like Marsh, Target, Sam’s Club and Walmart. There’s also oliverwinery.com, the winery’s tasting room on State Road 37 and, as of this fall, a new tasting room in downtown Bloomington.
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Photo provided by Oliver Winery.
In some cases, the cider is snagging customers for the first time. But Oliver Winery actually has sold apple wine since the 1970s, and it began offering hard cider, which is carbonated and contains less alcohol, in the ‘90s. Oliver and his staff wanted to offer that original version of Beanblossom Hard Cider in single servings instead of 750milliliter wine bottles. They used the opportunity to launch new flavors and reimagine the cider’s branding. Enter Bloomington artist Kevin Pope. His sprightly illustrations and super-short stories grace the cider bottles and cans, distinguishing the drink from Oliver’s wines and other hard ciders on the market. On the package for the original flavor, a single-propeller plane tries to net airborne apples. The story reads: His apples defied gravity. Floated up. Difficult to harvest, but special for their flavor, sweet, yet very light. The lighthearted approach has worked. The old Beanblossom Hard Cider sold 4,000 cases per year. The first run of the new cider—all 17,000 cases—sold out in about six weeks. The winery plans to sell 80,000 to 100,000 cases this year, compared to 360,000 cases of wine.
Oliver Winery buys most of its apples from Peterson Farms in Michigan. The winery processes the fresh-pressed apple juice as minimally as possible, with the goal of preserving its natural flavor. The apples are the star of all five flavors of Beanblossom Hard Cider. That’s by design. Winemaker Dennis Dunham and his staff sought to create flavored apple cider, not a raspberry or strawberry drink. “We wanted apple-ness to be a characteristic in all of them,” he says. Open the strawberry cider, and you’ll notice a strong strawberry scent. But take a sip, and the strawberry is subtler than you expect, allowing the apple to shine. The future is bright for Beanblossom Hard Cider. The winery is expanding, in part to accommodate the cider. Eventually Bill Oliver hopes to sell 500,000 cases of cider a year. Sounds like fun to him.
Details: Oliver Winery, 8024 N. State Road 37, Bloomington,
47404; 812-876-5800; oliverwinery.com
The packaging has been key, but there’s more to the cider’s success, Oliver says: “We want people to buy it because it looks good, and then say, ‘Hey, I like how this tastes.”
FOCUS ON FLAVOR Like wine, a good cider begins with good fruit. In this case, highquality Midwestern apples, with their deep, rich flavors.
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CIDER SEASON Oliver Winery’s hard ciders are the new kid on the block, but the crisp drink is made across the state. Here are more hard ciders made by Indiana producers to try this fall: Hard Ciders from New Day Meadery: This Fountain Square maker of honey wines has a polished offering of four hard ciders, too. It’s most popular is South Cider, a not-toosweet, not-too-dry variety that New Day co-owner Tia Agnew says is “very approachable and food friendly.” This fall, Sap Sucker cider returns, infused with pure maple syrup from Burton’s Maplewood Farm in Medora. Order the ciders by the pint, growler or keg (yep!) at New Day’s tasting room, and find it on tap at bars and restaurants throughout Indy. NewDayMeadery.com Hard Ciders from McClure’s Orchard: Cider making at this Peru farm is breathless—it has 16 varieties, both familiar and unusual. For something different that you won’t find elsewhere, try Jalapeño, which indeed is fermented with peppers; Grandpa’s Bourbon Barrel Aged cider, which picks up flavor while it matures in used bourbon barrels; or Fireball, with a cinnamon finish just like the famous candies. The ciders can be sampled and bought by the bottle at the orchard only. McCluresOrchard.com Grady’s Hard Cider from Buck Creek Winery: This hard cider is naturally sweetened with unfermented apple cider, not sugar, says winemaker Jeff Durm. The crisp, semi-dry variety is made with apples from an orchard outside of Peru, and carries his mother-inlaw’s maiden name. Find the 750ml bottles at the winery in southeast Indy and at select liquor stores (Durm says the south side’s Parti-Pak Liquors, 2633 E. Stop 11 Rd., typically stocks it). BuckCreekWinery.com Gale’s Hard Cider from Thomas Family Winery: This dry, barrel-fermented variety is named after the owner’s grandfather, who made cider in Tipton during Prohibition. Now it’s made in Madison using “old timey” heirloom apples. Available by the bottle at Broad Ripple Brewpub, Twenty Tap and Crown Liquors. ThomasFamilyWinery.us Mammoth Hard Cider from Madison County Winery: This four-year-old winery offers three ciders—its newest, Candy Apple, promises to taste just like the treat on a stick. The others are original and cinnamon-flavored. Pick up a 750ml bottle at the winery’s tasting room and shop in downtown Pendleton. MadisonCountyWinery.org —Erica Sagon
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BEYOND THE JACK-O-LANTERN: A PLETHORA OF PUMPKIN IDEAS BY SHAWNDRA MILLER
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P
umpkins anchor many a fall centerpiece, but they also can grace your table a second time on your dinner or dessert plate—or, in seed form, in the snack bowl. So don’t chuck that (uncarved) pumpkin. Instead, recycle your Halloween décor at the end of your fork. To get you started, local farmers and foodies offer their favorite serving ideas, from savory to sweet.
ROAST IT Randy Stout of Stout’s Melody Acres, a Franklin farm with 30 varieties of winter squash and pumpkins, encourages people to think outside the pumpkin. “You can use pumpkin and squash the same way you would use a potato,” he says. Baked, steamed, boiled, mashed or puréed—there are loads of serving options besides the traditional pie. One of his favorite pairings is roasted pumpkin with another autumn standout, Brussels sprouts. Toss one-inch cubes of pumpkin and halved Brussels sprouts with olive oil and seasoned salt, then roast for eight to 10 minutes at 425° until they caramelize. The result is “to die for,” he says.
TOAST IT Definitely don’t use the flesh from your jack-o-lantern pumpkin— there lies the road to food poisoning—but do save the seeds. The key to the perfect crunch is to dry the cleaned seeds fully before toasting, says Maria Smietana of Valentine Hill Farm in Zionsville. Dry them a few hours in a food dehydrator or 100° oven, or at room temperature for a few days. Skip this step and you may end up with moldy seeds. To check dryness, nibble a seed: If it’s still pulpy inside, give it more time. Toss the dried seeds with olive oil and your seasoning of choice, and spread on a baking sheet. “The foodie thing to do is flavor them with cayenne or Southwestern flavor, or cinnamon-sugar or sea salt,” she says. “The possibilities are endless.” About 10 minutes at 350° to 400° is all that’s needed to turn those raw seeds golden brown, and you’ve got a crunchy, high-fiber, high-protein snack. Store the cooled seeds in airtight jars. All pumpkins produce edible seeds, but Smietana has a variety called Snack Face that’s uniquely qualified: It’s versatile enough to be used as either a small jack-o-lantern or a pie pumpkin, but big, meaty, hull-less seeds are its defining feature. Another hull-less variety is Kakai, available from Stout’s Melody Acres.
“The foodie thing to do is flavor them with cayenne or Southwestern flavor, or cinnamon-sugar or sea salt.” half hour with a pat of butter inside. A half inch of water in the baking pan prevents scorching. Meanwhile, prep a box of stuffing mix and augment it with a handful of dried cranberries and a couple of chopped apples, preferably Gold Rush or Fuji. The warm mixture can be spooned into six baked mini pumpkins and, if desired, topped with a touch of brown sugar.
FLUFF IT Here’s a twist on pumpkin-flavored delicacies: pumpkin soufflé (recipe follows on page 35). Ivy Tech instructor Chef Tad Delay has adapted a carrot soufflé recipe for pumpkins, and it is equally at home as a side dish with roast duck or roasted pork loin—or as a dessert. Delay notes that a variety of winter squash called Jumbo Pink Banana, one of Stout’s offerings, makes an incredibly light soufflé because of its creamy, smooth texture. He leaves out the traditional pie spice to let the unadulterated sweetness of the vegetable shine through.
PICKING THE PERFECT PUMPKIN Whatever variety of pumpkin or squash you choose, Stout says, the rind should be fully colored, bearing in mind that different types come in different shades. Unless you plan to prepare the pumpkin within a few days, the stem should be attached—otherwise it will dry out. And make sure that stem is firm. Rubbery stems indicate an under-ripe vegetable.
Here’s where to find the locally grown pumpkins mentioned above: •
Stout’s Melody Acres sells produce at Binford Farmers’ Market, Indy Winter Farmers’ Market and Bloomington Winter Farmers’ Market. Find Stout’s Melody Acres on Facebook.
•
Valentine Hill Farm sells at Green Market at Traders Point Creamery, Zionsville Farmers’ Market, Indianapolis City Market, Binford Farmers’ Market, Broad Ripple Farmers’ Market. ValentineHillFarm.com
•
Tuttle Orchards’ farm store is at 5717 N. 300 West, Greenfield. TuttleOrchards.com
STUFF IT This unusual suggestion comes from Tuttle Orchards in Greenfield, the site of many a child’s pumpkin patch explorations. Minipumpkins no bigger than a fist are not just for show—they can do double duty as a festive addition to a holiday dinner. Ruth Ann Roney, farm store manager, recommends baking them like an Acorn squash. Simply cut a hole around the stem, clean the interior of seeds (saving them, of course) and bake at 350° for about a
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PUMPKIN SOUFFLE By Chef Tad Delay
This recipe from Chef Tad Delay, an instructor at Ivy Tech Community College in Bloomington, calls for fresh pumpkin rather than canned, so shop your farmers’ market for the main ingredient. Serves 4 to 6 1 (1-pound) pumpkin 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter 3 eggs ½ cup honey 3 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon vanilla Salt to taste
Prepare pumpkin for roasting: Cut a hole around the stem to remove it and clean the interior of seeds. Roast the pumpkin in a 350° oven until fork-tender. Once it is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and roughly chop the pumpkin.
2.
Melt the butter.
3.
In a blender, combine butter, eggs, honey, flour, baking powder and vanilla. Blend well.
4.
Add the pumpkin to the blender. Blend until the consistency resembles a milkshake.
5.
Pour mixture into an 8- by 8-inch greased glass dish (or a 9-inch round dish). Mixture can also be poured into ramekins for individual servings (as shown in the photo). Bake at 325° for 45 minutes, until just firm. To test for doneness, insert a toothpick in the center of the soufflé; if it comes out clean, it is done.
Photo by Erica Sagon
1.
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from the good earth
A Jewel in the City South Circle Farm Models Urban Agriculture BY SHAWNDRA MILLER PHOTOS PROVIDED BY SOUTH CIRCLE FARM
D
riving north on Indy’s central artery just past Raymond Street, your first glimpse of South Circle Farm is a gleaming white fence enclosing tidy beds loaded with greenery. Trucks rumble by; the jangly song of an ice cream truck vies with birdcalls. But if you venture through the gate, your ears can tune to milder sounds: the humming of bees, the clucking of hens.
South Circle Farm is an organic agricultural enterprise in an unlikely spot, situated on Meridian Street just two miles south of downtown. Bordered by a metal scrapyard and a plastic collection facility, it is a jewel of a farm. Here grow innumerable veggies, from arugula to zucchini, as well as blackberries, strawberries and herbs. The entire ¾-acre growing area is covered with a 24-inch layer of woodchips atop the lot’s lead-tainted dirt a tactic that prevents lead and other contaminants from reaching the produce. Above this slowly decomposing base, food grows in deep topsoil brought in from a south side farm.
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The residents of three beehives alight on cucumber and buckwheat blossoms. Young fruit trees and shade trees form a green screen in a previously untended corner. Hens scratch in a handmade pen whose salient feature is its large wheels, repurposed from a thrift store wheelchair. Presiding over it all is Amy Matthews, a quiet young woman with a vision. She started with a blank canvas and built a working farm unique in its many partnerships. A neighborhood center exposes youngsters to gardening in four wooden raised beds. Keep Indianapolis Beautiful, People for Urban Progress, and Cameron Morris Furniture have also joined forces with Matthews to plant trees, build a shade pavilion from RCA Dome roof fabric and create a one-of-akind outdoor table for events. Matthews rents the land from a nonprofit community organization. It’s an arrangement that suits her well: She’d worked on farms in Montana, Chicago and Cleveland, and wanted to bring her expertise back to her hometown, where the local food movement was just emerging.
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Amy Matthews.
“I was excited to take on my own farming enterprise and did not feel ready for the financial burden of it,” she explains. What she was ready for was the freedom that comes with starting from scratch. “It was all pretty much a blank slate.... It’s been fun to populate it,” she says. Matthews also offers CSA subscriptions and a half dozen of her subscribers work the farm alongside her each week. She’s close to compost maker Greencycle, so she’s able to supplement from a convenient source. And not only does she live within biking distance, she sells at Stadium Village Market, just a mile away. Matthews likes the fact that many of her customers drive right by South Circle Farm en route to the market, so they connect a farm with their produce. A half dozen customers work the farm alongside her each week. “They get to make farming part of their daily routine in the city, and I get to benefit from their work in exchange for produce. That’s harder to do if the farm is farther away,” she says.
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She’s far from finished with the building phase. She envisions the fence line graced with wildflowers and raspberries, the produce plots expanded all the way to the Bluff Avenue side. Future plans include a major rainwater catchment system, and she’d like to have a worm composting setup. Above all, she sees her work as a vital piece of the developing urban farming movement, part of an emerging “patchwork of farms” in Marion County. “If Indianapolis had 10 two-acre farms spread across each township, that would provide incredible opportunities to eat better, for education and just for quality of life in our city.” Here at South Circle Farm, there’s an excellent model for just that.
Details: SouthCircleFarm.com; 317-446-9448.
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fall 2012 edible events SEPTEMBER RIB AMERICA
INDY’S IRISH FEST
BREW BRACKET
What: Rib masters from across the country, including Squealers in Indy, gather at Military Park for this barbecue and music fest. When: Aug. 31–Sept. 3 Where: Military Park at White River State Park in downtown Indy Cost: General admission, $7. Children 12 and under, free. Food and drink tickets extra. Info: ribamerica.com
What: Enjoy traditional Irish food, plus a toast contest, sheep herding demonstration and dancing. When: Sept. 13-16 Where: Military Park in downtown Indianapolis Cost: Tickets, $10 in advance, $15 at the door; ages 13 and under, free. Info: indyirishfest.com
GOING LOCAL WEEK
TOUR DE COOPS
What: This one-week challenge asks Indy residents to eat a locally grown food at each meal. Though there is no central event, founder Victoria Wesseler asks people to visit farmers’ markets, dine at restaurants that source locally and enjoy happy hour at an Indy winery. When: Sept. 2–8 Info: goinglocal-info.com
What: This self-guided bike tour visits a dozen backyard chicken coops in Broad Ripple, Meridian-Kessler, Butler-Tarkington and Rocky Ripple neighborhoods. Bike parking is provided; Cars are welcome, too. Proceeds go to Nap Town Chicken’s Project Poultry, and will furnish a stocked chicken coop for a local school. When: Sept. 16, 1–6pm Cost: Tickets, $8 in advance, $10 at the door. Info: naptownchickens.org
What: Sample and vote on bourbon barrel aged beers from eight Indiana breweries. This sit-down event, limited to 150 people, will feature suds from Barley Island Brewing Company, Bier Brewery, Bloomington Brewing Company, Figure Eight Brewing, Flat 12 Bierwerks, People’s Brewing Company, Ram and Triton Brewing Company. When: Sept. 29, 6pm Where: Tomlinson Tap Room at City Market, 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis Cost: Tickets, $45, includes tasting; designated driver tickets, $5. Info: brewbracket.com
TUTTLE ORCHARD’S CARMEL APPLE FESTIVAL What: Kick off the fall season with a festival that includes a carmel apple hunt, agrimaze and an apple pie baking contest. When: Sept. 15 Where: 5717 N. 300 W., Greenfield. Info: tuttleorchards.com
BLOOMINGTON CHEFS’ CHALLENGE What: Monroe County Community Kitchen presents this sixth annual event, where three local chefs have one hour to cook a winning dish. When: Sept. 30, 7pm Where: Buskirk Chumley Theater, 114 E. Kirkwood Ave., Bloomington. Cost: Reserved seating tickets, $25; bistro seating, limited and sold by online auction. Info: monroecommunitykitchen.com
ANDERSON ORCHARD APPLE FESTIVAL What: This Mooresville orchard’s fest features U-pick apples, homemade apple cobbler with ice cream and more. When: Sept. 28–29 Where: 369 E. Greencastle Road, Moorsesville Info: andersonorchard.com
HERRON-MORTON OCTOBERFEST What: Sample beer, mead and hard cider, plus fare from food trucks. When: Sept. 29, 1–9pm Where: Herron-Morton Place Park, Alabama Street between 19th and 20th streets. Cost: Tickets, $5 in advance, $10 at the door. Info: oktoberfesthmpf.com
INDIANAPOLIS GREEK FEST
FALL HOMEGROWN INDIANA FARM TOUR
What: Enjoy classics like souvlaki and gyros amid live music and entertainment. When: Sept. 7–8 Where: Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church, 3500 W. 106th St., Carmel. Info: indygreekfest.org
What: Spend an afternoon immersed in a farm’s diverse ecosystem. When: Sept. 30, 1:30pm Where:”Ewe”nique Farm, Seymour Cost: $25 per person, register before Sept. 24 Info: bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket.
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OCTOBER BLOOMINGTON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET APPLE TASTING What: Sample apples from a variety of area growers and select some to take home. Cosponsored by Slow Food Bloomington. When: Oct. 6, 9am–1pm Where: Showers Common, 401 N. Morton St., Bloomington. Cost: Free Info: bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket
INDY WINE TRAIL CHILI COOKOFF What: Seven area wineries pour samples and offer chili. Get your passport stamped at each stop to receive an Indy Wine Trail wine glass. When: Oct. 13–14, noon–6pm Where: Seven wineries are on the Indy Wine Trail. Visit indywinetrail.com for locations. Cost: $25 in advance, $30 at the door Info: indywinetrail.com
CHOCOLATE FEST What: Sample sweets from Indy chocolatiers and bakers, including chocolate-bar maker Endangered Species and specialty shop Best Chocolate in Town. Put on by Arts for Learning. When: Oct. 20, noon–4pm Where: Harrison Center for the Arts, 1505 N. Delaware St., Indianapolis Info: yaindy.org
Fall 2012
advertiser Directory Our heart felt thanks to all of our advertisers for their support in helping to grow and sustain Edible Indy and our community. Please make a point of supporting these businesses and organizations. STARTING A COMMUNITY GARDEN WORKSHOP What: Learn the basics of starting a community garden in your neighborhood, including how to find land, test soil and design a garden layout. When: Oct. 27, 9:30am–noon Where: Purdue-Extension-Marion County Classroom in Discovery Hall, Suite 201, at the Indiana State Fairgrounds, 1202 E. 38th St., Indianapolis. Cost: Free. Info: fallcreekgardens.org
NOVEMBER BLOOMINGTON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET SOUP TASTING What: Sample soups created by area chefs at this sixth annual event. Co-sponsored by Slow Food Bloomington. When: Nov. 3, 10:30am–12:30pm Where: Showers Common, 401 N. Morton St., Bloomington. Info: bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket
BLOOMINGTON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET HOLIDAY MARKET What: Shop for locally grown products, plus arts and crafts, all made by area artisans. The TubaSantas will provide music at this ninth annual event. When: Nov. 24, 10:30am–3pm Where: Showers Common, 401 N. Morton St., Bloomington. Info: bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket
BACKYARD CHICKENS WORKSHOP What: Curious about raising a flock in your yard? Learn the basics at this session, put on by Keep Indianapolis Beautiful and Nap Town Chickens. When: Nov. 16, 6–8pm Where: Keep Indianapolis Beautiful, 1029 Fletcher Ave., Suite 100, Indianapolis. Cost: $10 Info: kibi.org
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A. Arnold World Class Relocation 8161 Zionsville Road Indianapolis, IN 46268 317.870.5777 aarnoldmoving.com Artisano’s Oils and Spices 1101-B E. 86th Street Indianapolis, IN 46240 317.251.4100 artisanosoils.com Best Chocolate In Town 880 Massachusetts Avenue Indianapolis, IN 46204 317.636.2800 bestchocolateintown.com Bloomingfoods 3220 E. 3rd Street 316 W. 6th Street 419 E. Kirkwood Bloomington, IN bloomingfoods.coop Buy Fresher: Piazza Produce, Inc. 5941 West 82nd Street Indianapolis, IN 46268 317.872.0101 buyfresher.com Endangered Species Chocolate 5846 W. 73rd. Street Indianapolis, IN 46278 t. 317.387.4372 f. 317.387.5372 chocolatebar.com Green B.E.A.N Delivery 317.377.0470 greenbeandelivery.com Just Rennie’s Cookies 812.490.8098 justrennies.com
La Margarita - Fountain Square The Murphy Arts Center, 1043 Virginia Ave. Suite 1, Indianapolis, IN 46203 317.384.1457 lamargaritaindy.com Michael Stewart at Merrill Lynch 317.262.4104 michael_l_stewart@ml.com Oliver Winery 8024 Indiana 37 Bloomington, IN 47404 812.876.5800 oliverwinery.com Pogue’s Run Grocer 2828 E. 10th Street Indianapolis, IN 46201 317.426.4963 poguesrungrocer.org Traders Point Creamery 9101 Moore Road Zionsville, IN 46077 317.733.1700 tpforganics.com Tuttle Orchards 5717 N. 300 West Greenfield, IN 46140 317.326.2278 tuttleorchards.com Upland Brewing Company 350 W. 11th Street, Bloomington, IN 47404 812.336.2337 4842 N. College Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46205 317.602.3931 uplandbeer.com
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last bite
BY AUDREY BARRON
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onventional tortes and pies come with the caveat of needing to be baked. Not so with this “living” torte. You can literally sit down to a warm slice 30 minutes from the moment you begin assembling. Filled with ripe, in-season pears, this torte’s crust is a mixture of raw nuts and dried dates, offering an abundance of fiber, protein and natural sweetness. Sure, it’s different from a baked dessert made with flour, butter and white sugar, but it says “fall” all the same. I always feel the winds of change in the air this time of year, and nothing is more comforting to me than sitting down to a warm slice of my Living Pear Torte alongside a steaming cup of tea.
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Recipe by Audrey Barron
Serves 8–10 3 large, ripe pears 2 tablespoons raw honey 2½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 cups dried dates, chopped 2 cups pecans 2 cups walnuts ½ teaspoon sea salt 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon organic cinnamon 2 tablespoons coconut sugar granules
1.
Preheat oven to 375°. Core the pears and then thinly slice using a mandoline or knife. Mix honey and lemon juice in a small bowl until it becomes a thin syrup, then pour over the sliced pears. Set the bowl aside, allowing pears to marinate.
2.
Process dates, pecans and walnuts in food processor until finely chopped and crumbly. Take out 2 cups of mixture and set aside.
3.
Add sea salt and water to mixture in food processor and process again. It should very quickly pull away from the sides of the processor and become dough-like.
4.
Press the dough-like mixture into the bottom of an 8-inch spring form pan to make an even crust.
5.
Fan out pear slices on the crust, covering it with an even layer.
6.
Add the cinnamon and coconut sugar to the 2 cups of date-nut mixture. Mix with your hands, then sprinkle a layer over the pear slices. Gently press down so the mixture is even.
7.
Slice and eat as is, or warm the torte in oven for 5 minutes. It will not cook in this short time.
Audrey Barron is an Indianapolis raw food chef and owner of Be Bliss Healing Therapies, providing holistic healing services and education. BeOfBliss.com
Fall 2012
Photo by Christina Richey
Perfect Pear-ing
LIVING PEAR TORTE
