edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA
ISSUE NINE | January/February 2017
CITRUS GR EENING • GROW ING OLI V ES • LOC A L FOOD HEROES • CITRUS IN NE FLOR IDA
Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season
No.9 Januar y-Februar y 2017
Member of Edible Communities
Š 2016 Nestle Waters North America Inc.
Chefs take great pride in their sources. They are as carefully selected as the carrots, cucumbers and peppers they feature on their menus. Chefs know great meals begin at the source. In the vast Panna Estate, rich in natural beauty and situated in the heart of Tuscany, lies the source of the pleasingly balanced and refreshing Acqua Panna spring water. Acqua Panna boasts a unique smooth and velvety taste, giving it the rare ability to please all discerning palates. A Taste of Tuscany.
Naturally filtered over 30 years by the Italian Alps and bottled at the source in Bergamo, Italy, S.Pellegrino has been a key ingredient in exceptional meals since 1899. Chefs trust their sources. Chefs trust S.Pellegrino.
THE FINE DINING WATERS THE FINE DINING WATERS THE FINE DINING WATERS
For more visit: finedininglovers.com
THE FINE DINING WATERS
THE FINE DINING WATERS
THE FINE THE FINE DINING WATERS
Contents DEPARTMENTS 2
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
4 CONTRIBUTORS 9
EDIBLE TABLE What’s in Season
10 SEASONAL PLATE Greens, Grains and Squash Bowl Citrus and Buttermilk Brined Pork Milanese Salsa Fuego 16 CHEMISTRY IN THE KITCHEN Citrus and Ceviche 23 GROWING THE GOOD LIFE Growing Citrus in a Container
34 EDIBLE INGREDIENTS A Guide to Local Citrus 36 EDIBLE DIY Grapefruit Kombucha 41 LOCAL LIBATIONS Using Citrus in Cocktails A Little Sip of Sunshine 45 FROM THE OVEN Orange Doughnuts Lemon Pound Cake 48 LAST BITE Citrus Gleaning
FEATURES
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF CITRUS IN NE FLORIDA Gone but Not Forgotten
18 ATTACK OF THE YELLOW DRAGON Is Florida’s Citrus Industry Doomed? 24 LOCAL HEROES Local Food Heroes 28 A NEW GROVE IN TOWN Is Olive the New Orange?
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Enchantment lies in different things for each of us. For me, it is in this: to step out of the bright sunlight into the shade of orange trees.
PUBLISHER Amy Robb amy@edibleneflorida.com
– Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings
EDITOR Lauren Titus lauren@edibleneflorida.com
It's not difficult to guess what the official state fruit of Florida might be. Orange juice is our state beverage. The orange blossom is our state flower. Our claim to collegiate sport fame is the Orange Bowl, and citrus fruit, especially oranges, remains a significant part of Florida's entire economy. In 2005, we designated the orange as our state fruit, and if you ever forget how important they've been to Florida's history, take a look at our state license plates, where the fruit is also prominently displayed. This issue puts the spotlight on citrus in Northeast Florida. While most of the groves in the state are in the southern two-thirds of the peninsula, you can still spot vestiges of the trees that once populated the region. Take a drive through neighborhoods such as Arlington, along the St. Johns River or west towards Palatka during winter months and colorful orbs of oranges, grapefruit and satsumas add a vibrant pop to the landscape. Read about the history of citrus growing in the area, as well as some of the challenges farmers currently face in keeping Florida’s signature crop alive. (You may be surprised to learn the harvest is now less than a third of what it was 20 years ago, and the outlook for future crops is uncertain). If you want to expand your citrus palate beyond grocery store offerings, learn how to grow your own fruit, even if you don’t have a lot of space for a tree. Have some Meyer lemons or grapefruit on hand? We have some tasty recipes and suggestions for combining flavor profiles to accentuate the season’s bounty. Finally, in our first issue of a brand new year we present the winners of our Local Food Hero Awards. Our gratitude to everyone who took the time to nominate the people and businesses in our region who are working hard to grow, support and sustain our local food system. Congratulations to the winners, and all the nominees, for your contributions to our food community and culture.
COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson DESIGN We Are Charette PHOTOGRAPHY Jenna Alexander, Jesse Brantman, Maria Conover, Stefanie Keeler, Amy Robb CONTRIBUTORS Matthew Barlow, Brooke Brennan, Bill Delaney, Katie Delaney, Cesar E. Diaz, Jen Hand, Trey Hartinger, Ian Fleischmann, Stephen Joseph Mekoski, Treena Morena, Erin Thursby, Jack Twachtman, Erika Weisflog, Andrew Yeo SUBSCRIBE Edible Northeast Florida is published 6 times per year by Slidetray Media LLC. Subscriptions are $28 and available at edibleneflorida.com. FIND US ONLINE EdibleNEFlorida.com facebook.com/edibleneflorida instagram.com/edibleneflorida twitter.com/edibleneflorida pinterest.com/edibleneflorida CONTACT US Have a story you'd like to see featured in Edible Northeast Florida? Send us your ideas! editor@edibleneflorida.com Edible Northeast Florida 24 Cathedral Place, Suite 406 St. Augustine, FL 32084 p. 904-494-8281 No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. © 2017 Slidetray Media LLC. All rights reserved.
ON THE COVER: Florida Oranges and Blossom Illustration by Jenna Alexander
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January/February 2017
edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA
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OUR CONTRIBUTORS JENNA ALE X AND ER Telling a story through pictures, no matter the medium, has always been Jenna’s thing. She is a photographer, illustrator and painter, currently working out of her studio in St. Augustine. She is drawn to natural light and airy images, and white is her favorite color. MAT THE W BARLOW Matthew currently manages the Earth Works garden center in Jacksonville. He is involved in the local food community through DIG Local Inc. and spends most of his free time tending his edible garden in the backyard. JESSE BR ANTMAN Jesse is an editorial and lifestyle photographer based in Jacksonville. He is also one half of the wedding photography duo, Jesse and Lexi Wedding Co. BRO O KE BRENNAN Brooke is a certified health coach who works with women, men and families to help them achieve their ideal vision of health. She has a passion for cooking, creating and eating foods that utilize fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Better health starts with the food on your plate; may it be delicious, memorable and truly nourishing. MARIA C O N OVER Maria is a professional photographer and baker with a deep passion to share it all with a community. Growing up in the Midwest has given Maria a strong love for carbs and hearty wheats; living in the South, she has come to appreciate a good ole' southern happy hour. BILL D EL ANE Y Bill is a writer and higher education professional from Jacksonville. His work focuses on the culture and history of the First Coast. He holds bachelor’s and master’s degrees in English from the University of North Florida. K ATIE D EL ANE Y Katie is a food access professional and advocate for Florida farmers based in Jacksonville. She currently manages the Fresh Access Bucks program, which incentivizes SNAP recipients to buy Florida-grown produce at farmers markets. CESAR E . DIA Z Cesar, the owner and bartender at Odd Birds and Damiana in St. Augustine, is an active member of the US Bartenders Guild. When not at work, Cesar spends time with his three daughters. IAN FLEISCHMANN Ian, the executive chef at Il Desco, has a deep affinity for citrus. His single favorite ingredient is Yuzu, a Japanese citrus. The first time he tasted it sent shivers down his spine. JEN HAND Jen is a freelance writer based in St. Augustine. Her work has appeared in the St. Augustine Record and Folio Weekly and currently blogs for RoadBikeOutlet.com. A former short order cook, caterer, bartender and baker, she loves her CSA and farmers’ markets, and may have a slight cookbook problem.
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January/February 2017
When not eating copious amounts of vegetables, Jen is found running trails, paddling the Intracoastal or playing soccer. TRE Y HARTINGER A professional chef, Trey is the sales manager at Congaree and Penn Farm and Mills, who also does recipe research and development. Previously Trey had been at Marker 32 here in Jacksonville and The Restaurant at The Pearl Hotel and Stingaree in San Diego.
ENJOY
Happy Hour M-F • 3-7
STEFANIE KEELER Born and raised in Miami Beach, Florida, Stefanie is now a senior at Jacksonville University, working on her BFA (with a concentration in photography). In between shooting weddings and eating locally, she is a self-taught fiber artist and loves exploring Jacksonville. STEPHEN JOSPEH MEKOSKI Stephen has a passion for healthy living and a love for fermentation and fine tea. Equipped with a culinary background and years of experience in cold pressed juice, he is on a mission to "Populate the Public with Probiotics" via Moonbooch, a local Kombucha company specializing in what Stephen calls "farm to bottle Kombucha." TREENA M O RENA Treena, from Mayan Summer Foods, takes pride in bringing you homemade Mexican food and street food artfully prepared from her family recipes. Visit their Facebook page to see the entire product line and at Old City Farmers Market each Saturday. ERIN THURSBY Erin is the Executive Director of GastroJax, the organization that puts on GastroFest, a freelance writer and food editor for EU Jacksonville. She's been a food and entertainment writer for over 10 years and she's thrilled to be writing for Edible Northeast Florida. JACK T WACHTMAN Jack is the owner and general manager of BREW Five Points and has been an instrumental part of such Northeast Florida institutions as Burro Bar, Burro Bags and One Spark. His passions are specialty coffee and craft beer but he spends all his free time in the kitchen fermenting and preserving whatever he can get his hands on.
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ERIK A WEISFLO G Erika is the Pastry Chef at Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails. Erika attended Johnson & Wales University where she received her Associate in Applied Science degree in Culinary Arts in 2005. Following culinary school she worked in several restaurants in the Jacksonville and Virginia Beach areas developing and refining her culinary and pastry skills along the way. AND RE W YEO Andrew is the Executive Chef and creative force behind Salt at The Ritz-Carlton on Amelia Island, one of only three AAA Five Diamond Restaurants in the state of Florida.
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This page: photo courtesy of Library of Congress Opposite left: Garnett orange grove, St. Augustine, Florida, State Archives of Florida; Opposite right: Elisabeth Williamson, Private Collection
a brief history of the
C it r u s I N DU S T RY IN N O R T H E AS T F LO R I DA Gone, but Not Forgotten. WORDS ERIN THURSBY
M
y fondest memory of Florida’s citrus legacy comes from my teenage years in the 1990s. We would drive through abandoned groves between Ocala and Orlando, windows opened, grabbing oranges as we drove by, filling the backseat. Those overgrown groves, even then, were a testament to the difficulties of growing oranges, left fallow because of the periodic freezes that cut into profits and the onset of citrus greening that destroys trees entirely.
Northeast Florida lacks for commercial citrus these days, especially since the latter half of the 1900s. But there was a time when the scent of oranges filled the air, when the banks of the St. Johns River, especially in Mandarin and Arlington, were thick with groves. Oranges came to Florida by way of the Spaniards, giving us wild groves by the 1600s, but didn’t become an export until 1764, when we sent a modest 21 barrels to England. It wasn’t until the 1800s that Florida truly caught “orange fever.” By 1811, Zephaniah Kingsley was making a princely sum of $10,000 a year from his Laurel Grove plantation (located near Doctor’s Lake in Mandarin), some of which came from his orange grove. In 1814 he’d left Laurel Grove for Kingsley Plantation on Fort George Island, where he planted ample groves, reaping the benefits within 10 years. The Civil War interrupted citrus production, but by 1867, Harriet Beecher Stowe, who wintered in the Mandarin neighborhood, wrote friends of a property for sale with an orange grove said to yield 75,000 oranges. Freezes in the 1880s destroyed a great many trees, and owners had to battle canker, bugs and other scourges. North Florida grove owners told of the terrible sound of the orange boughs snapping in the bitter cold hard freezes in the 1890s, which devastated the North Florida citrus industry and made South and Central Florida more attractive. Despite those troubles, by the late 1910s Florida had surpassed California in orange production. By the 1920s, although the industry wasn’t as robust as had been hoped, North Central still had many groves, like the 72-acre farm Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings bought in 1928, located in Hawthorne in Alachua County. You can still see oranges there today, at
the Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings Historic State Park, where her home and grounds have been preserved. Another local park, Alpine Groves Park in Switzerland, St. Johns County, still features a farmhouse from 1900, and the garage contains much of the machinery for processing fruit. A few orange and lemon trees remain, but most were killed in the freezes of the 1980s. In St. Augustine, one stalwart fellow decided to carry on despite the deep freezes of the late 1800s. Dr. Reuben B. Garnett marketed his property as a tourist attraction: Dr. Garnett’s Orange Groves. In 1920s and ’30s, his daughter added glass blowing and horseback riding. In the 1940s, the family leased the south end of the land to an entrepreneur, Walter B. Fraser, who owned the Fountain of Youth and the Oldest School House. He dubbed it the Oldest Orange Grove. Bit by bit, the land was sold off or paved over, and in 1962 the majority was bulldozed for a Holiday Inn and Winn-Dixie. These days you’ll find a Doubletree Hotel by Hilton at the old address. The grove and lands bordered what is today Old Mission Avenue, San Sebastian Avenue and San Marco Avenue, all the way to the San Sebastian River. Today, most of the citrus in Northeast Florida can be found in small groves and private yards, protected by micro-climates. Though it has faded away as an industry in Northeast Florida, our citrus heritage can be found in place names, here and in Central Florida: neighborhoods such as Mandarin (the name was changed from Monroe in 1830 because of the Mandarin orange groves); the city of Citra, founded in 1881 in Central Florida’s Marion County, which still grows oranges today; and Satsuma in Putnam County, named for a cold-hardy variety of Mandarin orange.
...there was a time when the scent of oranges filled the air...
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What does this orange in your cup?
[ More than you might think ]
A
T BOLD BEAN COFFEE ROASTERS®, we work hard to unpeel and reveal to our customers the mystery behind what separates a good cup of coffee from a great one. For us, it begins with our producer partners – farmers like Felipe Sardi, Jorge Falla and Don Beto – who continually remind us what can be accomplished when one is powered by passion and an unyielding determination to make the best better. By embracing new ideas and innovative farming practices, coupled with a strong commitment to environmental stewardship and timeless farming traditions, Bold Bean’s producer partners demonstrate daily that great coffee doesn’t just happen. It’s a process. Take, for instance, shade grown coffees. Many Arabica coffee varieties (which produce most of the world’s specialty coffee) grow best in shady environments, such as the mountain rainforests of Central and South America. As a result, many farmers grow their coffee in natural or managed forest landscapes, placing their plants among high canopy, mixed hardwoods and fruit trees such as oranges, tangerines, limes, mangoes, bananas and avocados. That’s a good thing. These trees help capture and retain rainfall, reduce soil erosion and lower temperatures for the heat-sensitive coffee plants. They attract birds, ants, and other organisms that serve as natural controls of coffee pests. And, they provide important wildlife corridors and habitat for migratory birds. providing additional sources of income from fruit and wood, and by reducing or eliminating the need for pesticides or fertilizers. Though shade grown coffee takes longer to ripen and produces lower yields than coffee grown in sunnier conditions, longer ripen-
Seasonally Sourced • Directly Traded • Locally Roasted SINGLE ORIGIN, LIMITED-LOT COFFEES
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January/February 2017
edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA
EDIBLE TABLE Joseph Lennon on sauté at Restaurant Doro in Neptune Beach.
What's in Season? Here’s a list of the produce and seafood you can expect to find at your local farmers’ markets and on local menus in the coming months. Don’t hesitate to ask where your food is grown and sourced. Seasonal closures and catch limits may affect availability of fish and seafood. PRODUCE
Chard
Lettuce
Rutabagas
SEAFOOD
Arugula
Chestnuts
Limes
Salad mix
Amberjack
Beans
Chinese Spinach
Loquats
Satsumas
Catfish
Beets
Chives
Mizuna
Sorrel
Cobia
Blood oranges
Cilantro
Mustard greens
Spinach
Drum
Bok choy
Collards
Napa cabbage
Sweet potatoes
Grouper
Braising mix
Cucumbers
Onions
Swiss chard
Mahi-Mahi
Broccoli
Endive/escarole
Oranges
Tangelos
Oysters
Broccoli raab
Fennel
Oregano
Tangerines
Pompano
Brussels sprouts
Grapefruits
Parsley
Thyme
Snapper
Butternut squash
Green onions
Pomelos
Turnips
Tuna
Cabbage
Kale
Pumpkins
Vermicelli squash
Wahoo
Calamondins
Kohlrabi
Radicchio
Winter squash
Carrots
Kumquats
Radishes
Cauliflower
Lemons
Rosemary
Information provided by Florida Department of Agriculture, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, South Atlantic Fishery Management Council and other sources. EdibleNEFlorida.com
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SEASONAL PLATE
GREENS, GRAINS AND SQUASH BOWL This flavorful bowl makes a great addition to your Meatless Monday menu. For variety, replace the butternut with other winter squash, such as acorn or delicata. Serves 4-6 | Recipe by Brooke Brennan , B.B Wellness
place on a large baking sheet in a single layer. Roast for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Place all the dressing ingredients in a large Mason jar with a lid. Shake vigorously until
INGREDIENTS 1 cup kamut (or quinoa), prepared according to package directions
blended and emulsified. Citrus and Cider Vinaigrette: Zest of 1 orange
While the squash is roasting, prepare the
Juice of 1 lemon
greens and grains bowl. In a very large bowl
halved, seeded and diced in ½-inch
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
add the kale, cooked kamut, pomegran-
pieces
¼ cup olive oil
ate arils, dried cherries, goat cheese and
1 teaspoon raw honey
pumpkin seeds. Add dressing to the salad
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
and massage well with your hands. Mas-
Salt and pepper, to taste
saging the kale well will help break down
1 medium butternut squash, peeled,
2 bunches lacinato kale, cleaned, stemmed and rough chopped Arils from 1 pomegranate ½ cup dried cherries
the tough fibers and make it very tender.
4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled
PREPARATION
½ cup roasted, salted pumpkin seeds
Preheat oven to 425°F. Prepare butternut
Once squash is done roasting, top the sal-
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
squash for roasting. Add diced squash to
ad with the hot squash and additional goat
2 tablespoons avocado oil
a bowl with the avocado oil, turmeric, salt
cheese, pumpkin seeds, pomegranate and
Salt and pepper, to taste
and pepper. Mix well with your hands and
dried cherries, if desired.
Photo by Amy Robb
BENEFITTING:
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SEASONAL PLATE
CITRUS AND BUTTERMILK BRINED PORK MILANESE, WITH ARUGULA SALAD AND CHARRED MEYER LEMON Brining the pork chops is an integral part to bringing out the citrus flavor. Make sure to brine at least 6 hours but no longer than 24 hours. Serves 2 | Recipe by Chef Trey Hartinger, Congaree and Penn Farm | Photos by Stefanie Keeler
INGREDIENTS
For salad:
2 bone-in pork chops, pounded very thin (½-inch or less)
1½ ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved
1 cup white wine
½ bulb fennel, sliced thinly
1 orange, zested and juiced
2 Meyer lemons (1 for zest and 1 cut in half, to char)
1 lemon, zested and juiced
3 tablespoons Congaree and Penn Pecan Oil
1 lime, juiced
Salt and pepper to taste
1 sprig rosemary (bruised with the back of a knife) 10 sprigs thyme 5 garlic cloves, smashed 1 tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 cup buttermilk 1 cup Congaree and Penn Fish Fry Breading ½ cup Congaree and Penn Pecan Oil
2 large handfuls petit arugula
PREPARATION While holding the bone, lightly pound the pork chops thin with a kitchen mallet on a cutting board. Start near the bone and work outward towards the “eye� of the chop to ensure even thickness. To make brine, pour white wine in a small sauce pot and cook over medium heat until reduced to half the volume. While wine reduction is still hot, add the bruised herbs, citrus zest, citrus juice, Old Bay and salt. Once cooled to room temperature, add the buttermilk and stir to blend well. Place pork chops in 1 gallon zip-top bag, pour in brine and place in refrigerator until ready to cook. To make salad, in a large mixing bowl, toss arugula, cheese and fennel together, and keep cold until ready to serve. To cook pork chops, heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Pour the fish fry breading into a pie plate and spread into an even circle, as big as the pork chops. Just before the pork goes into the skillet, remove 1 chop from the bag (do not dry off, just let drip a bit) and cover both sides in the breading, pressing as you go. Add pecan oil to hot skillet and place the pork chop in the pan. Reduce heat to medium-low and let the pork chop cook from the bottom up. Turn after 2 to 3 minutes, or when desired color is achieved. Flip the chop over, and repeat the process. Once cooked, place the pork chop on a paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat the process for the other chop. Once both chops are cooked, wipe the skillet out, leaving just a touch of the oil in, and turn heat to mediumhigh. Once skillet is smoking, add the halved lemon flesh side down and cook in the smoking pan until an almost burnt color is achieved. Finish by dressing the salad in the pecan oil and Meyer lemon zest. Pile the salad high on top of each pork chop, and place the charred lemon right next to it. Before eating, squeeze the lemon over the salad.
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13
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SALSA FUEGO The acidity of the lemon and lime juices adds a zesty kick to this salsa. Tomatillos, also called husk tomatoes, are related to gooseberries and are members of the nightshade family. Recipe by Treena Moreno, Mayan Summer
Pico de Gallo
Photo by Amy Robb
INGREDIENTS Flavored Oil: 1 clove garlic ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 bay leaf Salsa: 2 pounds tomatillos ½ medium white onion, diced in 1/8-inch pieces 1 avocado, chopped in ¼-inch pieces 1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped 2 limes, juiced 1 lemon, juiced ½ habanero pepper, chopped finely 1 serrano pepper, chopped finely ½ jalapeno pepper, chopped finely 1½ tablespoons honey ½ tablespoon sugar
Salsa Fuego
1 teaspoon Flavored Oil PREPARATION Make the flavored oil by removing the skin from the garlic clove, but leave it whole. In a small pan heat the oil on medium low heat and add the garlic and bay leaf. Cook until the garlic clove is browned on all sides. Set aside 1 teaspoon for the salsa and save the rest of the oil for other uses. Husk the tomatillos and remove the stem. Wash thoroughly in warm water to get rid of the stickiness. Chop them into ¼-inch sized dice or use a food processor for a rough chop. Combine all ingredients, plus the cooked garlic clove (smash it first) and let rest about an hour so the flavors blend well.
Want the recipes for Pico de Gallo and Salsa Casa? Visit our website.
Salsa Casa
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15
Chemistry in the Kitchen CITRUS AND CEVICHE
WORDS CHEF ANDREW YEO | PHOTO AMY ROBB
T
here are several coastal countries that lay claim to the origins of ceviche, a seafood dish that can be easily prepared at home. In Peru, ceviche has become part of Peru’s national heritage, with a holiday declared in its honor. Simple ingredients like fresh seafood, limes, red onion, garlic, habanero pepper and cilantro are typically used to prepare ceviche. To embrace a local flavor in Northeast Florida, try using snapper, grouper or mahi-mahi. Technically speaking, cooking requires heat, so ceviche, a dish in which raw fish is marinated in citrus juice, isn’t cooked. Though it is never “cooked” in the traditional sense, ceviche goes through a chemical process that effectively rearranges the fish’s proteins, much like the application of heat. Both heat and citric acid are agents of a chemical process called denaturation. In this process, citric acid changes the proteins in the fish which alters its chemical and physical properties. When fish is submerged in citrus juices, it turns the flesh firm and opaque, as if it had been cooked with heat. Whatever type of fish you’re using, it’s important to cut it up into bite-size pieces, because the increased surface area will make it easier for the citric acid to do its “cooking.” A flakier fish like flounder or shellfish such as scallops may only need to marinate for about 15 minutes. However, a strip of mahi-mahi, a hearty and dense fish, could take closer to 50 minutes or an hour to “cook.” Use a glass bowl or any container non-reactive to acid and cover it tightly when it is cooking in the refrigerator.
www.HOBNOBwithus.com
Tuesday-Friday 4:00-7:00
Draft HOBNOB Daiquiri
CEVICHE Leche de tigre, or tiger’s milk, is the traditional Peruvian name for the citrus-based marinade that “cooks” the seafood in ceviche. Serves 4-6 | Recipe by Chef Andrew Yeo , The Ritz-Carlton
INGREDIENTS 8 ounces snapper, cut in cubes Juice of 2 limes
1 small sweet potato, sliced ½ cup Peruvian corn
1 habanero pepper, chopped
Micro cilantro, to garnish
½ cup Leche de Tigre*
Pinch citrus salt to taste
¼ cup red onion, chopped INSTRUCTIONS Combine fish and lime juice in a 1½-quart glass bowl and stir to cover the fish with lime juice. Add habanero pepper, Leche de Tigre* and chopped red onion. Cover bowl and refrigerate for
FIND A
KITCHEN
T H AT F EEL S L I K E
HOME
several hours, until fish no longer appears raw when cut. To serve, garnish with sweet potato, Peruvian corn and cilantro. *Leche de Tigre Combine ½ cup fish stock, 2 tablespoons chopped red onion, 1 tablespoon chopped celery, 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro, 1 teaspoon chopped habanero pepper, 1 teaspoon chopped garlic, 1 cup ice cubes and salt in a blender. Blend until everything is well mixed, then strain.
81 King Street • Suite B St Augustine, FL 32084 904.669.0691 arriola.irene@gmail.com
ireneARRIOLA R E A L E S TAT E
irenearriola.com Each office is independently owned and operated
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AT TACK OF T HE
Yellow Dragon
Is Florida’s Citrus Industry Doomed? WORDS JEN HAND | PHOTOS STEFANIE KEELER
18
July/August 2016
edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA
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f there were a contagious disease as deadly to humans as greening is to citrus, grocery stores’ bottled water aisles would be empty and we’d be stockpiling canned goods in underground bunkers. In less than a decade, the disease has crippled Florida’s citrus industry, and neither farmers nor scientists can catch up as it marches across the country. The scientific name is Huanglongbing (HLB, or yellow dragon disease). It can affect all citrus, but our iconic state fruit, the orange, is its punching bag. The Asian citrus psyllid spreads this bacterial disease as it feeds on the green shoots of a tree. These tiny bugs were first seen in Florida almost 20 years ago; shortly afterward, citrus greening was detected in 2005. And this scourge of citrus groves is now found in every county of the state. Huanglongbing is not harmful to humans. The same can’t be said for citrus.
I thrust cuttings from both trees (and There is no cure for trees once they contract two pathetic lemons for good measure) at the the disease. Heavy into research mode for this article, first friendly face I saw at the St. Augustine I started to fret about our grove. Master gar- organic garden center. Longtime employee deners, we are not. The neat little row of trees Beth Levine was judgment free. We pored (a grapefruit, a lemon and two orange) in our over the pamphlets on citrus greening and side yard is tended using the latest laissez- compared the photos with my offerings. faire methods. We plant something, maybe “Blotchy mottle” would be an excellent name fertilize once a year if somebody thinks to, for a punk band, but on a citrus tree’s leaves prune at the wrong time and still hope for it is not ideal and a key diagnostic symptom high yields. The lemon tree never cared ei- of HLB. ther way. We are always overrun with lemHomeowners concerned with citrus ons—enough for us, extended family and greening on their property can contact their most of the residents of St. Johns County. local county extension office or bring in (Pro tip: Juice lemons into ice cube trays and samples, too. For nearly a century the University of Florida has maintained the Citrus freeze for later use!) This year the lemon and the grapefruit trees suffered, though. Was it citrus green- OPPOSITE: Florida oranges picked and ing? Sad-looking fruit and blemished green ready for the farmers' market. leaves pushed me to Southern Horticulture, ABOVE: Citrus farmer Cecil Nelson in his grove, San Mateo, Florida. hoping the folks there could help. EdibleNEFlorida.com
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Research and Education Center (CREC) facility in Lake Alfred. It recently published a comprehensive guide to HLB for Florida homeowners. Gary England, the regional specialized extension agent/director at the UF/IFAS Hastings Extension, shared it with me. “There is no significant commercial citrus acreage in Northeast Florida,” England said. But there remain a handful of smaller growers in our region, including San Mateo’s Cecil Nelson. Nelson and his wife, Stella, have maintained 10 acres of citrus on their Putnam County property east of Palatka near the St. Johns River for 30 years. Growing citrus, like all farming, is subject to weather conditions and market volatility. Nelson was not adversely impacted by Hurricane Matthew; in fact, he wishes it had dumped a little more rain on his property. During harvest season, he sells upwards of 25 varieties of citrus. He entices customers with fruit samples laid out on platters at the Beaches Green Market in Jacksonville Beach and the Union Street Farmers’ Market in Gainesville. By his own admission, Cecil Nelson is “an old guy, but I don’t just sit around watching TV,” he said. At 72, he works his land himself, with a couple of helpers in the high season. He gets his information about HLB from trade magazines and attends the yearly Citrus Expo held in Fort Myers. From the look of the 2016 expo agenda, a range of subjects was covered but the hottest topic by far was HLB and how to manage it.
Once infected, a tree starves. Its growth is stunted, the fruit stays partially green, may be misshapen, drops early and tastes bitter. The tree dies within 3–5 years. Regarding the Asian citrus psyllid, Nelson said “as long as he’s on the leaf of the tree, I can deal with him.” But “once it gets into the roots…” his voice trailed off. Nelson estimated he has removed less than 10 trees due to HLB. When he pulls a tree, it goes straight to the burn pit. What Nelson knows is that the disease works into the phloem (the tree’s main artery) and causes issues with nutrient uptake. Once infected, a tree starves. Its growth is stunted, the fruit stays partially green, may be misshapen, drop early and tastes bitter. The tree dies within 3–5 years. Fighting citrus greening is challenging, and not cheap. The cost to manage an acre of citrus has skyrocketed. Grants are available to help, and there are tax incentives for growers to replant trees that have been removed. Researchers frantically seek a breakthrough, but compared to how fast HLB has infected 90% of citrus acreage in Florida, these efforts do not amount to much. Like an oncologist diagnosing a patient with advanced skin cancer, handing him a Hello Kitty BandAid and calling out “Good luck!” as she shows him out the door. Some of the latest conventional methods of dealing with HLB include developing resistant plant varieties (genetic modification) and applying large amounts of antibiotics to distressed trees. Scientists 20
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are finding small successes with using sound waves to hijack the psyllid’s mating signals, employing dogs to early-detect the presence of the disease and utilizing heat therapies like shiny metalized reflective mulch and tenting trees in order to kill bacteria and promote growth. California growers and industry experts can feel the yellow dragon breathing down their necks. HLB has not shown up in commercial groves there yet, and despite the catchy hashtag campaign #citrusmatters, it is likely just a matter of time. It has already been found in residential areas. Authorities there are concentrating efforts on disease awareness, improving picking practices and quarantining areas affected. They all but beg homeowners to properly dispose of diseased trees, even offering to remove them for free. The verdict on the trees in our yard? Southern Horticulture’s Levine had good news and bad news. The grapefruit tree was, as she put it, “nutrient deficient” and she directed me to good fertilizer. She stressed being aware and proactive, and to “try to keep your trees as healthy as possible.” Not so lucky was the lemon tree—its leaves looked
“suspicious.” We will pull it out. Check your own trees. It is not the law to remove an affected tree, but it’s not the law to cover your mouth when you sneeze either. It’s just the right thing to do. Most of Florida’s oranges are destined for juice processors, most of California’s for eating. We are the world’s second-largest juice-orange producer (behind Brazil) and OJ prices are at an all-time high. These days, tastes have changed as folks cut back on sugar/calorie intake and find many alternative beverage choices. HLB is the easy target to blame, but freezes, hurricanes and rampant land development are also culpable. For all of these reasons, farmers in Florida have been abandoning citrus and trying other crops like peaches, blueberries, olives, figs and pomegranates. The largest private landowner in the state, Deseret Ranches, has 1,600 acres of citrus, but announced last fall due to greening they will shift out of citrus production and transition that land to cattle. Right before HLB’s stranglehold, in 2003–04, Florida produced 242 million (90-pound) boxes of oranges. Florida is on
pace to have the smallest orange harvest here in over 50 years as estimates for the 2016–17 crop are for 72 million boxes, a 14% drop from the 2015–16 season. In a recent worstcase scenario prediction, economists projected that Florida orange production could plunge to only 27 million boxes in 10 years. More than a threat to our brunch mimosas, at stake here is a $10 billion industry. We are talking about the livelihoods of farmers, some of whom have been in citrus for three or four generations. If citrus collapses here, the losses ripple out to tens of thousands of jobs in picking, processing, transportation, marketing and more. Huanglongbing has pummeled the worldwide citrus industry. It now stands poised with a fist cocked, and if inroads are not made and made soon, it will deliver a knockout blow to Florida. Hopefully citrus and its champions can fight back. OPPOSITE: Cecil's farm has remained relatively unaffected by citrus greening. To date, less than ten trees have been removed from his grove.
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AUTHENTIC NUTRITION
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WORDS MATTHEW BARLOW, EARTH WORKS ILLUSTRATION JENNA ALEXANDER
W
hen you start growing your own food, more varieties of fruit and vegetables become available to you beyond
the selection you find in grocery stores. The produce section
may offer one or maybe two varieties of each fruit or vegetable, especially when it comes to citrus. You have many more choices at the nursery, where you can choose from multiple types of oranges, tangerines, grapefruit, lemons and limes. Growing citrus at home can be fun and delicious. Choosing exactly which varieties to grow might be the hardest part of the endeavor. Keep in mind that, whichever type you choose, most citrus trees require the same conditions to grow and thrive. Think about the kind of citrus you and your family would enjoy most often, and start there. If your space is limited and you can’t plant citrus in the ground, here’s good news: Citrus trees can be grown in any adequately sized container with a few basic requirements. Follow these pointers to grow citrus successfully in Northeast Florida. Watering citrus properly is very important. Citrus do not like to remain wet or moist. Make sure that the soil dries out thoroughly before watering. With that in mind, citrus are not cactus and cannot go for weeks without being watered either. Citrus will flower in the spring, followed by fruit which matures in about 10 months and, depending on the variety, can be harvested early winter when ripe.
SE V EN TIPS FOR POT T ED CIT RUS 1.
A pot of at least 30 by 30 inches is recommended.
2.
Add 3 inches of gravel at the bottom of the pot to ensure proper drainage.
4.
Choose an organic citrus fertilizer and follow instructions on package.
5.
Make sure that your tree receives at least 4–6 hours of direct sunlight every day.
6.
Be prepared to protect/cover during hard frosts.
7.
The tree should be pruned for shape as it grows.
.SOMG ON .SEVITAVRESERP ON SURTIC ADIROLF YLNO 3. Premium potting soil found at a locally owned garden center is best. .STNEIDERGNI LAICIFITRA ON ECUDORP NACIREMA &
& DENWO NEMOW DETAREPO YLIMAF
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Local Food Heroes PHOTOS AMY ROBB & STEFANIE KEELER
Edible Northeast Florida is pleased to announce the winners of our inaugural Local Food Hero awards. Nominees were recognized by our readers for their contribution to a robust local food system & vibrant local food scene; transparency and authenticity in sourcing; high quality ingredients and services; and an awareness of, and concern for, environmental and social sustainability. More than 170 businesses, organizations and individuals were nominated across eight categories and hundreds of votes were tabulated, a testament to our ever-growing local food community.
FARM: CONGAREE & PENN
CHEF: TOM GRAY
LINDSAY & SCOTT MEYER
MOXIE KITCHEN + COCKTAILS
STARTUP STORY Congaree and Penn was born out of a desire to work with the land, grow and create genuine products and to become involved with the culinary scene in Jacksonville. They needed to figure out what would grow well in their rich clay soil and the answer was rice! The first crop grew surprisingly well in 2014. Local chefs caught wind of their product grains, and it’s been through the support of these chefs, foodies, friends and family that they have grown into a real and productive farm.
STARTUP STORY Summers in South Carolina at his aunt and uncle’s small farm allowed Tom to see first-hand at a young age what farming was like and how it felt to be connected to the seasons and soil. Later, once he was a cook, Tom had the chance to get to know and purchase from small, specialty farmers and artisan producers in the Los Angeles area, San Diego, New York City and the Napa Valley for the restaurants he worked in. When Tom moved back to Jacksonville in 1999, he continued the tradition, and has never stopped.
“We’re passionate about food and where it comes from. As food producers (and food consumers!), we like knowing where what we’re eating came from, and we’re really proud to share products that we grow and craft ourselves.”
“As a chef, I’m always looking for the very best ingredients to serve to my guests and building relationships with people who are passionate about what they do. When an item is grown locally and sustainably, fresh-picked and served within a few hours or days of being harvested, the flavor, color, texture, vibrancy, freshness and nutrient content are all at their peak. Secondly, and just as importantly, by purchasing from our local farmers, specialty growers and food artisans, I’m directly supporting small business enterprises and the families that
WHY LOCAL?
RUNNER-UP Down to Earth HONORABLE MENTIONS Bacon Farms, Alvarez Farms, Traders Hill Farms, GYO Greens, Urban Folk Farms
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WHY LOCAL?
own them. I’m a small business owner, and when guests choose to dine with us, it means they are directly helping to support all of the people that work in our restaurant, as well as all of the local businesses we buy from. It’s a win-win-win all around.” Daven Wardynski HONORABLE MENTIONS Alex Yim, Kurt D’Aurizio, Scotty Schwartz, Waylon Rivers, Michael Lugo RUNNER-UP
PHOTOS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT 1 Lindsay and Scott Meyer
4 Genie and Jeff McNally
2 Chef Tom Gray
5 J.P., Mateo and Mariah Salvat
3 Charlotte and Shai Tzabari
6 Andrés Guardiola and Renée Spadaro
taurant, focusing on high quality local and sustainable ingredients. “We approach sustainability and food from a couple of different directions, but arrive at the same conclusions. Food is important. Where it comes from, how it is produced equally so. If we lose touch with where our food comes, we lose touch with myriad significant cultural, environmental and social institutions. To continue to make sure that real, good, fresh and fair food continues to be available is therefore a cultural (in the deepest, anthropological sense of the word) imperative.” WHY LOCAL?
FOOD ARTISAN: OLIVE MY PICKLE CHARLOTTE & SHAI TZABARI STARTUP STORY Charlotte and Shai started selling olives and pickles bulk style from barrels at NE Florida farmers’ markets six years ago. A few years ago they began selling jarred pickles at local natural food stores like Native Sun and Grassroots; now they are in 30+ stores throughout Jacksonville, Savannah, Gainesville and Orlando. WHY LOCAL? “A true livelihood in small food depends on a local system that interconnects thriving farmers, creative food-producers, smart + supportive retailers and bought-in consumers. When a robust local food system is in place, more economic opportunity for food entrepreneurs and better product choices for consumers means our region becomes a more interesting, artful, prosperous and fun place to live.” RUNNER-UP My Grandmother’s Pie HONORABLE MENTIONS Bold City Pops, Community Loaves, Congaree & Penn, Barrett’s Pimento Cheese
FULL SERVICE RESTAURANT: THE FLORIDIAN GENIE & JEFF MCNALLY STARTUP STORY Genie and a former partner started a prepared foods/ catering business in 2008, featuring fresh, healthy soups and sandwiches. In 2010, after years of working in restaurants, Genie and Jeff got the wild idea to partner up with some folks and open up a full-service restaurant. The goal was to establish a casual, innovative Southern res-
RUNNER-UP Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails HONORABLE MENTIONS Matthew’s, Purple Olive, Taverna, Orsay, Michael’s Tasting Room
FAST CASUAL: SOUTHERN ROOTS J.P. & MARIAH SALVAT
Southern Roots began at the Beaches Green Market selling vegan & gluten-free dips, spreads, and baked goods. STARTUP STORY
WHY LOCAL? “It’s one thing to eat whole foods, it’s another to eat healthy whole foods, and it’s something profound to eat locally grown whole foods. The flavors of local food are incomparable and the dedication of our local farmers is incredible. I farmed after college and it is hard work with little pay. I learned to appreciate farmers and the cost of growing food; emotionally, physically, all of it. Towards the end of the summer, I always get a little depressed and uninspired by the lack of produce. When making our daily specials, I am endlessly inspired by what farms like Down to Earth, Berry Good Farms and Traders Hill bring me. It is really my muse.” RUNNER-UP M-Shack HONORABLE MENTIONS TacoLu, Corner Taco, Trasca & Co, Native Sun, The Bearded Pig
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“
Being a Jacksonville native and having spent almost 15 years living in other large cities, I made the decision that I wanted to bring a unique concept to not only my home town, but downtown.”
David Cohen, Head Distiller and Tom Johnson, Director of Sales, Manifest Distilling
FOOD TRUCK: CRAVE ANDRÉS GUARDIOLA & RENÉE SPADARO
Andrés and Renée always had a dream and passion for owning their own healthy lunch place. With their many years of restaurant experience and a degree in nutrition/dietetics it made sense for them to follow their dream and open Crave. STARTUP STORY
WHY LOCAL? “It is important to us because we believe in supporting and promoting sustainable local food growers / purveyors and we strongly believe in keeping the money in our community to further enhance and grow our local food community.” RUNNER-UP Berry Good Farms HONORABLE MENTIONS Happy Grilled Cheese, Fusion, Chew Chew, Catullo’s, Uptown Scratch Kitchen
DRINK ARTISAN: MANIFEST DAVID COHEN STARTUP STORY Manifest was born from 3 years of planning and a desire to bring a creative craft spirits company to Jacksonville. What started as a concept was honed over countless meetings with lots of amazing locals and has now become a beautiful reality.
“Being a Jacksonville native and having spent almost 15 years living in other large cities, I made the decision that I wanted to bring a unique concept to not only my home town, but downtown. Personally I believe in voting with your dollars and I support sustainable WHY LOCAL?
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food systems. Not only is it good biologically but it also good for farming. I wanted to carry that through this business so we could do our part in propagating that ethos.” RUNNER-UP Gabby Saul HONORABLE MENTIONS Jessie Lane (Ice Plant), Intuition Ale Works, Cesar E. Diaz (Odd Birds), Watts Juicery
NON-PROFIT/FOOD ADVOCACY: SLOW FOOD FIRST COAST STARTUP STORY A group of like-minded volunteers started the local chapter in 2007. Slow Food is an international organization, active in over 150 countries and including more than 170 chapters in the US.
“We work to save disappearing food traditions and traditional food products, to help people rediscover the joys of eating and to understand the importance of caring where food comes from, who makes it and how it’s made so a robust local food system is paramount to our mission. We value food produced locally and recognize its use.” WHY LOCAL?
RUNNER-UP
River City Chicks Clara White Mission, BEAM, Pie in the Sky,
HONORABLE MENTIONS
Dig Local
Gourmet Ground In-House Burgers | Hand-Cut Fries | Fish Tacos | Extensive Craft Beer Selection
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Fresh picked olives from Florida Olive Farms and Mill in Live Oak.
A New Grove in Town IS OLIVE THE NEW ORANGE?
WORDS BILL AND KATIE DELANEY | PHOTOS JESSE BRANTMAN
J
onathan Carter twists a knob on the stainless steel decanter and pours a bit into a lowball glass, swirling it around to let the liquid warm in his hand. He sniffs it for a moment before shooting it back, sucking in a quick breath of air to spread the flavor around his mouth. The peppery finish makes him cough. This is a prime batch of Northeast Florida olive oil.
“
This quick taste test reveals olive oil’s kinship to that ubiquitous Florida product, orange juice. Both are juices, really, that come from the fruits of trees. Both are seasonal, perishable and taste best when fresh. Olive farming is relatively new to North Florida, but it’s quickly taking hold, and in a state where greening disease threatens the citrus industry and an entire agricultural way of life, olives
You can make great olive oil anywhere in the world as long as it’s fresh.”
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may bring hope to stricken farms. Carter and his brother Stephen are leading the charge at one of Florida’s first olive mills, which specializes in high-quality extravirgin olive oil. With the initial trees planted in 2012, Florida Olive Farms & Mill is among the first of a growing number of olive farms that have cropped up across the region. The Carter brothers, natives of Neptune Beach, grew up working on their parents’ timber farms. They initially had little interest in careers in agriculture; after graduating from the University of Florida, they joined corporate America and founded a software company together. But eventually, they felt the pull of the old lifestyle and— call it kismet—bought a freshly pastured lot just across from one of the family’s timber farms in Live Oak. Why olives? “It was Jonathan’s idea,” says Stephen, laughing. They knew they wanted something less demanding than a tree farm.
“We didn’t want to handle timber, we didn’t want a row crop.” When they learned of the Georgia Olive Farms’ success in Valdosta and discovered the economic potential of artisan olive oil, everything came together. The U.S. is already the third-largest olive oil market after Italy and Spain, with annual consumption of over 80 million gallons and growing rapidly. However, Americans produce less than 2% of the oil they consume, a bad sign considering olive oil’s short shelf life. Florida Olive Farms produces cold-process extra-virgin olive oil in an unheated stainless steel mill without chemical treatments. To achieve their desired quality, the brothers imported their milling equipment from Italy. This proved challenging, as all the dials, levers, buttons and instructions are written in Italian, a language that, unsurprisingly, these North Florida boys do not speak. Fortunately, friends from Italy flew in to help translate and get the equipment up and running.
“Once you’ve had fresh olive oil, you know”
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For olives, freshness is the key to greatness. “You can make great olive oil anywhere in the world as long as it’s fresh,” says Jonathan. It’s a relatively short shelf life product that starts breaking down as soon as the olives come off the tree. At present, the Carters have two distinct blends: White Label Brothers Blend, a robust, peppery oil; and Black Label Mild Brothers Blend, which has a mellow, buttery flavor. Every batch is truly artisanal and varies with each harvest based on fluctuating weather conditions during the season. Florida Olive Farms’ entry into the business is especially well timed, as confidence in international suppliers has been shaken by widespread fraud and poor regulation. According to journalist Tom Mueller, who has covered the industry for a decade, up to 50% of olive oil sold in the U.S. has been adulterated and 69% of oil labeled extra-virgin fails to meet the standard. As a result, many consumers have no frame of reference for how rich and flavorful the good stuff can be. Just as
Americans got used to watery beer and bleached bread, the common conception of olive oil is a thin, enervated fluid best used for coating the frying pan. But olive oil done right, in its smooth, peppery richness, is an entirely different experience. “Once you’ve had fresh olive oil, you know,” said Jonathan. So far, the Carters and other olive pioneers have been successful in bringing groves to North Florida. This has been welcome news to some citrus farmers blighted with greening, and some have started experimenting with olive crops. However, it is not yet clear how much help olives could be to Florida’s fruit industry. While citrus requires warm weather, olives need an extended cold period to fruit. North Florida’s cooler
“The demand for olive oil has been overwhelming”
OPPOSITE: Jonathan Carter owns Florida Olive Farms with his brother Stephen. ABOVE: The washer cleans, de-leaves and de-twigs the olives before moving them into the frangatore, or crusher, where they are churned into a paste.
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EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: A BUYERS GUIDE QUALIT Y OVER QUANTIT Y U.S. consumption of extra-virgin olive oil has increased by 50% over the last 15 years, but many Americans gravitate toward high-volume, low-quality oils. Consider purchasing higher-quality extra-virgin olive oil in quantities that can be used up within a few months. Once the bottle is open, the clock is ticking: Olive oil is best consumed within three months. Beyond that point, the flavor deteriorates, the texture becomes waxy and the oil starts to turn rancid. R E A D T H AT L A B E L Check labels for a specific producer, country of origin or harvest date. From the time of harvest, the average shelf life of a sealed bottle ranges from 18 months to two years. While terms like “virgin” and “extravirgin” refer to specific processes, in practice there’s little regulation. Many mass-produced oils are adulterated with cheap vegetable oils or “deodorized.” Watch out for terms like “imported from” or “packed in”—this wording often indicates that the product originated in other places entirely. Try to buy from smaller brands, which have less incentive to cheat.
adversaries of olive oil’s nutritional density and flavor. Minimize exposure to these elements by storing in tight-sealing, dark-colored glass bottles in cool, dark and dry environments. Chemicals found in plastic containers can permeate the oil, so it’s best to avoid these altogether. CUT OUT THE MIDDLEMAN Get to know your local farmers and producers and source close to home if possible. Knowing where your oil comes from increases transparency and helps ensure you receive the freshest, highest-quality product. It also puts money directly back into local farmers’ pockets. Knowledge is power. SAVO R THE F L AVO R Good-quality olive oil comes in a variety of shades ranging from brilliant green to pale yellow, so color is not a strong indicator of quality. In both flavor and aroma, genuine extra-virgin olive oils have a marked fruitiness reminiscent of fresh olives, and typically have some level of bitterness, pungency and pepperiness at the back of the throat. In great oils, these characteristics are harmoniously balanced together with complex aromas, flavors and aftertastes that bloom gradually.
K E E P I T C O O L , D A D D Y- O Heart-healthy polyphenols and other nutrients will inevitably break down, so proper storage is key. Air, heat, light and time are natural
LEFT: Young olives are green and as they age, they turn darker, softer and purple in color. The Carter brothers press a variety of olives so their oil blends are different depending on ripeness.
Olives, like citrus, are best when freshly squeezed. climates and sandy soil make it good olive country, but there’s a limit to how far south olives can go. As Stephen said, “we’re still figuring out where that line lives.” In the meantime, Florida Olive Farms’ sales have been brisk, having completely sold out of their products early last season. “The demand has been overwhelming,” said Jonathan. Sourced from the fruit of their fields and that of other area farms within an hour and half ’s drive, the pair follow strict processing guidelines and prefer to mill within 24 hours of harvest, a shorter turnaround even than the rigid 72-hour international standard for extra-virgin olive oil. As the seasons pass and their trees produce more fruit, the brothers aim to trim the process down to six hours. Olives, like citrus, are best when freshly squeezed.
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EDIBLE INGREDIENTS
A GU I DE TO
Local Citrus
FLAVOR PROFILES CHEF IAN FLEISCHMANN, IL DESCO | ILLUSTRATIONS JENNA ALEXANDER
N AV E L O R A N G E Flavor: Sweet Pairs well with: Shrimp, honey, arugula, coconut, mascarpone, sweet potatoes, persimmons, cardamom, chocolate, beef, oysters Best used in: Quick breads, sauces, salads, ambrosia, marmalade, tarts, cheese boards, juice
S ATS U M A Flavor: Sweet Pairs well with: Almonds, dates, mint, seafood, cumin, ginger, duck, fish, chocolate, rum Best used in: Juice, cocktails, salads, ice cream
BLOOD ORANGE Flavor: Sour, sweet Pairs well with: Caramel, honey, cinnamon, cloves, mint, white chocolate Best used in: Salads, vinaigrette dressings, muffins, scones, tarts. Zest is good in baked goods.
POMELO Flavor: Sour, slightly sweet Pairs well with: Avocado, chicken, crab, spinach, ginger, scallops, honey, pomegranate Best used in: Salads, candied peel, marmalade, marinade, salsa
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CAL AMONDIN Flavor: Sour fruit, sweet edible peel Pairs well with: Tilefish, wahoo, seafood, chicken, duck Best used in: Marmalade, sauce or juice. Can also freeze the whole fruit and use as an edible ice cube in cocktails.
MEYER LEMON Flavor: Sweeter, less acidic than regular lemons Pairs well with: Chocolate, poultry, fish, scallops, papayas, guavas, artichokes, sardines. okra Best used in: Curds, candied lemon peel, cupcakes, hollandaise sauce, gremolata, mignonette, lemon meringue pie
K U M Q UAT Flavor: Sweet edible peel, sour fruit Pairs well with: Beef, cayenne, cinnamon, snapper, mangoes, nutmeg, papayas, pecans, persimmons, pork, sweet potatoes Best used in: Marmalades, jellies, salads, chutney, Asian cuisines
GRAPEFRUIT Flavor: Sour, bitter Pairs well with: Asparagus, chicken, crab, fish, gin, miso, poppy seeds, onions, salmon, tarragon Best used in: Sparkling wine cocktails, salads, grilled fish, broiled fruit dessert, vinaigrette
LIME Flavor: Sour Pairs well with: Coconut, dates, ginger, hazelnuts, papayas, scallops, melon, vodka, watermelon, hot peppers Best used in: Ceviche, Mexican, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, pies, sour mix for cocktails EdibleNEFlorida.com
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EDIBLE DIY
Grapefruit ‘Booch HOW TO BREW YOUR OWN AT HOME WORDS STEVE MEKOSKI | PHOTOS AMY ROBB
W
e are extremely lucky in Florida to be able to use local ingredients to make kombucha: spring water, sugar cane and yaupon, a species of holly that is used for tea. Native to this area, yaupon is being recognized as “North American Yerba Máte” for its comparable caffeine levels and purported health benefits. Besides these great Florida ingredients, we also have amazing local produce we use to flavor our kombucha, and it changes according to the season. In winter months, we like to use citrus such as grapefruit.
GRAPEFRUIT KOMBUCHA To start you will need a SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast), the key ingredient that transforms sweet tea into kombucha. If you don’t have a friend brewing a batch, we have plenty of SCOBY on hand. Serves 4-6 | Recipe by Steve Mekoski , Moonbooch Kombucha INGREDIENTS
EQUIPMENT
3½ quarts good drinking water (spring or reverse osmosis)
1 gallon container (glass Mason or pickle jar is preferred but you
1 cup sugar (we prefer organic cane sugar or juice but any
can also use ceramic, wood or wine-grade stainless steel)
“cane” sugar will do) ¼ cup dry tea (we prefer the mild flavor and color of green but you can use whatever tea you desire, just no flavored teas) 2 cups starter (the liquid that the SCOBY comes in or, if no liquid was provided, use fresh kombucha)
Measuring cup or spoons Clean dish towel or cloth to cover Rubber band or small bungee cord (to keep cloth secure over jar)
1 SCOBY (the size of your palm or bigger for a 1-gallon batch)
8 ounces grapefruit juice (about 2–3 large grapefruit if you are
Wooden spoon
doing the juicing)
EdibleNEFlorida.com
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1 BREW Heat about 2 quarts of the water on the stove until boiling. Add the tea and steep about 10 minutes. Strain out the tea and add the sugar. Allow to cool. This is what we call our “nutrient solution.”
2 COMBINE
4 F L AV O R Gently remove your SCOBY to a glass holding vessel with 2 cups of kombucha for the next brew (starter). Stir the kombucha and strain. Add the fresh grapefruit juice and stir to combine.
You can chill and drink as is or ferment it again to raise carbonation and make it extra bubbly. To do this, pick a thick glass bottle with a tight closure like lug top or bottle cap.
Add “nutrient solution” and starter liquid to 1-gallon jar. Add the rest of the water (leaving a 1-inch gap at top for SCOBY). Stir to combine and gently rest SCOBY on top.
3 FERMENT Cover 1-gallon vessel with cloth and secure with band or bungee. Keep vessel in a warm, dry, dark environment for up to 2 to 3 weeks, tasting each week to check the progression and condition of your brew. If conditions are too cold, your culture will go dormant; too hot, and it is subject to mold. Around 75–85° is ideal. Bubbles around the SCOBY after the first week of fermenting are a good sign—your culture is on the right path to probiotics. When the mixture starts to taste less sweet and more acidic you are getting close. Remember, every taste palate is different so once you’re happy with the acidity of your brew it’s time to add flavor. If you are squeezing your own grapefruit juice, make sure to take off the peel and as much of the white as possible to avoid bitterness.
“Remember, every taste palate is different so once you’re happy with the acidity of your brew it’s time to add your flavor.” 5 BOTTLE Prime each bottle with ¼ teaspoon cane sugar or honey. (Optional) Fill bottles leaving ½ to 1 inch headroom (gap) at the top. Cap or close tightly and leave it in a similar environment to making kombucha for 3–6 days. Check one bottle after the third day: If it hisses when opened, you are ready or getting close, depending how carbonated you want it. Chill and enjoy!
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LOCAL LIBATIONS
Twist & Shake U S I N G C I T R U S I N C O C K TA I L S WORDS CESAR E. DIAZ, ODD BIRDS
F R E S H I S B E ST— M AY B E Some say squeezing fresh citrus immediately before use helps retain aromatic compounds and flavor. However taste tests have shown that flavors of lemon and lime juice may actually improve by letting them sit for four to 10 hours. Why is that? Bitter limonoid compounds, like limonin (in limes) and nomilin (in lemons), tend to develop when the juice is exposed to air, reducing the sourness of the citric acid. Orange juice, however, is best used right after squeezing. S H A K E N , NOT ST I R R E D When using citrus juice in cocktails, it's best to shake it up. When you shake a cocktail, the ice cubes start to break apart and add air bubbles into the drink. This is beneficial to help dilute some of acidity of the citrus, making the cocktail light and refreshing. T W I STS A R E A- PE E L I NG Whether you cut a thick or thin slice of peel, make sure to actually twist it to rupture and release the oils found in the fruit’s skin—this is where the majority of a lemon or lime’s aroma is stored. If the fruit has been washed, you can leave the peel in the drink. For an easy way to remove the skin from the fruit, use a vegetable peeler. HOM E M A DE L I MONCE L LO After juicing lemons, save the peels and infuse them in vodka to make your own limoncello. Using the peel from organic lemons, add to 100-proof vodka and let sit for four days to one month (the flavor is stronger the longer you infuse the lemons). Then strain off the vodka and mix in simple syrup to sweeten.
LOCAL LIBATIONS
A Little Sip Of Sunshine Local Brewer Finds Favor with Florida Citrus
WORDS JACK TWACHTMAN | PHOTO STEFANIE KEELER
I
t’s hard to think of an ingredient more iconically Floridian than the noble citrus fruit. Although oranges tend to dominate the commercial spotlight, sharing the bulk of the state’s citrus production with grapefruit and tangerines, lemons and limes have a loyal fan base as well. With citrus fruit’s pure embodiment of liquid sunshine, distinctive acidity and refreshing nature, it comes as no surprise that many of Florida’s craft brewers are incorporating citrus, in all its forms, into their recipes. Engine 15 in Jacksonville currently brews three such beers. Their Orange Cream Ale, a year-round offering that blends the classically smooth style with 100% Florida orange juice, is one of its best sellers. During the hot summer months the brewery makes a refreshing, sessionable Lemon Shandy that combines housemade lemonade with their signature J-Ville Lager. And for their latest foray, fresh lime juice is added to their slightly tart and salty gose, a beer whose immediate success in the taproom can be attributed to years of perfecting the art of blending fresh citrus juice with craft beer. “We were able to draw from our past experience to be able to package it and feel confident about it right out of the gate,” says owner and brewmaster Luciano Scremin. Keeping things natural is a point of pride for Scremin, as many brewers rely on extracts to provide a cheap and convenient way to infuse their beers with otherwise natural flavors. They are, after all, scientifically consistent and precise. “Extracts are interesting things and they certainly have their place,” says Scremin. But regardless of their consistency, he
prefers the traditional route. “It’s a natural product, not some chemically extracted essence of that product.” Working with fresh, natural ingredients like citrus is not without its challenges, though. At Engine 15, the biggest complication materialized towards the end of a batch of the Orange Cream Ale. Scremin and his team began noticing higher carbonation levels in the last few kegs, a phenomenon they initially attributed to a secondary fermentation of the additional simple sugars found in the orange juice. After sending samples to a lab for analysis and determining that no re-fermentation was actually occurring after packaging, they speculated as to what might be the source of the problem. They soon identified pectin, the naturally occurring polysaccharide found in some fruit that is often used as a thickening agent in jams, as the culprit. Lemons and limes contain little to no pectin, which explains why the problem didn’t manifest itself in their other citrus beers. “It took a while to get the pectins in the juice to play well with the chemistry of the beer,” Scremin says, “but we were able to do it without using anything artificial.” The solution was to simply remove the pectin altogether through the use of specialized enzymes. Unexpected chemical reactions aside, fresh fruit is anything but consistent and predictable. Sure, they maintain their essential lemon, lime or orange flavors, but myriad environmental variables such as rainfall, temperature, sunlight, etc. play a role in exactly how the harvested fruit tastes, particularly in terms of sweetness, the pivotal factor in how the juice interplays with the beer. When the brewers at Engine 15 blend juice into a finished beer, they take notes on the specific ratios to use as a starting point for the next batch, adjusting concentrations to account for seasonal crop variations in order to maintain consistency. Florida brewers are fortunate in that citrus is easy to source in the region, the same way brewers in Michigan may work with cherries or in Georgia with peaches. Working with local produce also helps establish an uniquely Floridian sense of identity in beermaking. “It’s something that’s here,” Scremin says. “It sets us apart, it’s delicious and I think it’s awesome.”
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Local GUIDE
Please make a point of supporting these artisan businesses in our community.
From the farm to the table, we deliver fresh local produce and artisanal goods to customers’ homes. Customize each order to suit your taste buds with our simple online ordering. 386-753-4565 frontporchpickings.com
Located on the north side of Jacksonville, Congaree and Penn is a rice farm, a mayhaw orchard and home to a future cidery. 11830 Old Kings Road Jacksonville hello@congareeandpenn.com congareeandpenn.com
For this New Year, re-invest in your landscape and refresh the garden with North Florida-friendly citrus varieties, and everything they might possibly need. Organic fertilizers, soil enhancers, alternative pest controls and more! 1690 A1A South St. Augustine 904-471-0440 southernhorticultureflorida.com
GLUTEN FREE FRESH CORN TAMALES HAND CRAFTED EMPANADAS FRESH GOURMET SALSAS
Grater Goods is located in the heart of Murray Hill and is Jacksonville’s only stand alone cheese and charcuterie shop. We specialize in American made cheeses and cured meats. 1080 Edgewood Ave. S. #9 Jacksonville 904-203-8533
Organic Café serving creative juices, smoothies, acai bowls and healthy bites all made fresh to order. Vegan and gluten free options. Healthy. Fresh. You. 1510 King Street Jacksonville 904-574-3557
Semi-swanky street food made with hand-crafted ingredients you can pronounce. Serving Mexclectic tacos on fresh, house-made tortillas, daily. Slow Food approved. 818 Post Street, Jacksonville www.cornertaco.com 904-240-0412
MGP makes real artisan baked goods and handcrafted foods with honest ingredients you can trust. From pies and galettes to fresh seasonal jams and citrus curds. Find us weekly at Beaches Green Market in Neptune Beach or order custom baked online. Jacksonville mygrandmotherspie.com
For a complete list of our offerings visit us at For a complete list of our FACEBOOK.COM/MayanSummerFoods offerings, visit us at facebook/ PICK-UP ~ CATERING ~ CUSTOM ORDERS Old world recipes of our ancestors skillfully prepared MayanSummerFoods. Pick-up, for you to enjoy. Visit us every Saturday at OLD CITY FARMERS MARKET at the amphitheater. catering and custom orders. Find us Call: 585585-734734-3207 / MayanSummerFoods@gmail.com every Saturday at Old City Farmers Market at the Amphitheatre in St. Augustine.
Hand-makers of fine ceramics since 1981. The perfect gift for food enthusiasts! Come see us at the Old City Farmers Market at the St. Augustine Amphitheatre on Saturday mornings from 8:30 am - 12:30 pm, Space 68.
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Trasca & Co Eatery is a one-of-akind vintage neighborhood eatery, specializing in hand-crafted Italianinspired sandwiches, craft beer and craft coffee! 155 Tourside Drive, Suite 1500 Ponte Vedra Beach 904-395-3989 trascaandco.com
We hand-craft loose leaf teas and culinary spice blends using only the finest organic ingredients. Our blends are locally produced in small batches by passionate artisans. Come see us at the Old City Farmers Market every Saturday. 904-495-8948 cultivateteaandspice.com
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TASTE
â WINTER SEASON:
CITRUS & GREENS Available to all those interested. Visit our local markets to acquire some today! SATU RD AY S Beaches Green Market Jarboe Park | Neptune Beach
WE DN E S DAYS Mid-Week Market Bull Memorial Park | Atlantic Beach
TO
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January/February 2017
edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA
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FROM THE OVEN
ORANGE DOUGHNUTS WITH ORANGE VANILLA BEAN GLAZE These baked treats are quick and easy to make for brunch or a lazy Sunday breakfast. Serves 4-6 | Recipe and Photo by Maria Conover, Jayne Doughnuts
INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Preheat oven to 425°F. Prepare a doughnut
2 cups cake flour
pan by spraying it with cooking spray.
¾ cup sugar
Melt 2 tablespoons butter and allow to cool.
2 teaspoons baking powder
In a large metal bowl, whisk together flour,
1 pinch salt ½ cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 eggs, beaten ¼ cup freshly squeezed Clementine juice (about 4 Clementines)
sugar, baking powder and salt. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the milk, vanilla, eggs, melted butter, Clementine juice and zest. Stir until well-combined. Spoon the batter into the prepared doughnut pan. Bake for 9 to 10 minutes. Let doughnuts rest in pan for 4 to 5 minutes, then remove them from pan and allow to
Zest of 4 Clementines
cool on a cooling rack.
Glaze:
For the glaze:
2 cups powdered sugar 3 tablespoons milk Zest from 4 Clementines ½ vanilla bean, scraped
While doughnuts are cooling, in a mediumsize bowl whisk together powdered sugar, Clementine zest, seeds scraped from vanilla bean and milk until combined. Immediately spoon over doughnuts or dip them into glaze and then EAT!
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Break-Awayz 819 N Oceanshore Blvd. Flagler Beach, FL 32136 (386) 439-7700 break-awayz.com Break-Awayz offers fresh, delicious tapas style food with over 100 craft beers, wine, and sake with a beautiful Atlantic oceanfront view from the deck.
Focaccia 85 Cypress Point Pkwy. Palm Coast, FL 32164 (386) 283-5617 focaccia.us Following the tradition of Roman ‘pizza al taglio’, the pizzas are prepared as rectangles, and come with a wide range of everyone’s favorite toppings.
Captains BBQ 5862 N. Oceanshore Blvd. Palm Coast, FL 32137 (386) 597-2888 captainsbbqbaittackle.com Ranked one of the best barbeque joints across the country offering some of the best true southern BBQ, using the best quality meats and ingredients.
The Island Grille 1224 S. Oceanshore Blvd. Flagler Beach, FL 32136 (386) 693-4966 theislandgrille.com The Island Grille is an upbeat, classy dining experience with a stellar ocean view and a diverse menu of quality house made foods at affordable prices.
Flagler Fish Company 180 S. Daytona Ave. Flagler Beach, FL 32136 (386) 439-0000 flaglerfishcompany.com A combination restaurant and retail market, people come to the FFC from around the region and beyond for a taste of the freshest seafood available.
Swillerbees Craft Donuts 101 North Central Ave Flagler Beach, FL 32136 (386) 338-1075 Swillerbees has innovative recipes like Jalapeños Sweet Cream, Bourbon Brown Sugar, Matcha Tea and more. Their roasting beans are brought in from six different countries.
Vessel Sandwich Co. 213 South 2nd St. Flagler Beach, FL 32174 (386) 693-5085 vesselsandwichco.com Savor the amazing flavors of the made-from-scratch, gourmet sandwiches and unique beer cocktails available at this casual, chef-driven restaurant.
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LEMON POUND CAKE The surprise ingredient in this moist cake is cottage cheese. Serve one loaf now and freeze the second for a future gathering. Makes 2 loaves | Recipe by Chef Erika Weisflog, Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails, Photo by Maria Conover
INGREDIENTS 4 sticks (1 pound) butter, room temperature
Lemon Glaze:
PREPARATION
½ cup lemon juice
Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter 2 loaf pans and coat in granulated sugar.
½ cup cultured buttermilk
8 ounces lard
Dash kosher salt
10 eggs
3 pounds powdered sugar
6 cups sugar 6 cups all-purpose flour, sifted 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon baking powder Zest from 10 lemons
Place pans in freezer while preparing cake batter. In a mixing bowl with paddle attachment, start whipping butter and lard with sugar. Continue to whip, scraping with rubber spatula every few minutes to fully incorporate, until creamy and fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time and whip at medium-high speed, scraping often, for approximately 4 to 5 minutes. It is important to whip enough to ensure nice crusting on the cakes. Sift baking powder into already-sifted flour. Add salt and lemon zest into flour mixture until well incorporated. Add vanilla, vinegar and dry
16 ounces cottage cheese (goat cheese, sour cream or ricotta may be used as substitutes)
ingredients into mixer and continue to mix with paddle on low-medium
4 teaspoons vanilla
additional minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before removing from
1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
speed. Once all ingredients listed above are beginning to mix, add in cottage cheese. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 325° for 55 to 65 pan. When cake is cool, pour lemon glaze over top. To make glaze, combine all ingredients and mix until smooth and of pouring consistency.
LAST BITE
CITRUS GLE A NING WORDS LAUREN TITUS | PHOTO STEFANIE KEELER
What to do when your citrus tree produces more than you can eat? Rather than let the fruit go to waste, consider donating to a gleaning project run by the Society of St. Andrew. Historically, gleaning was the process of collecting leftover crops after a harvest. Today, it's still an effective way of sharing extra homegrown produce with people in need. Active since 1995, the Society of St. Andrew organizes the statewide, volunteer-driven Gleaning Network, coordinating with local farmers, individual growers, thousands of volunteers and food distribution agencies. Locally, the Society partners with Feeding Northeast Florida to hold an annual event that attracts over 500 volunteers to help glean citrus fruit from neighborhood trees. The Fifth Annual Citrus Drive is February 11, 2017. Assemble a group of friends, family or co-workers and gather at one of the various locations around town to collect oranges, grapefruit, tangerines and more. For more information visit FeedingNEFL.org.
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THROUGH THE WHOLE YEAR.
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Visit FirstCoastYMCA.org for New Year’s savings.
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