The Industry Issue by Edible Northeast Florida

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

ISSUE TEN | March / April 2017

THE INDUSTRY ISSUE

FA R M WOR K ER S IN NE FLOR IDA • K ITCHEN CULTUR E • COMPOSTING • FOOD A ND PL ACEM A K ING

Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season

No.10 March/April 2017

Member of Edible Communities

Steep a cup of Yogi tea and you have something more than delicious. Every intriguing blend of herbs and botanicals is on a mission, supporting energy, stamina, clarity, immunity, tranquility, cleansing or unwinding.

Every cup is a gift to mind, body and spirit.

Photo by Miguel Emmanuelli

DEPARTMENTS

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Contents 32 GROWING THE GOOD LIFE Food Packaging Labels

4 CONTRIBUTORS 7

EDIBLE TABLE Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in Season

12 EDIBLE INGREDIENTS Carrots 29

SEASONAL PLATE Mayport Shrimp Salad Orange Rosemary Stuffed Chicken Vegetable Lo Mein

36 FROM THE OVEN Raw Vegan Matcha Mint Chocolate 'Cheesecake' 44 BACK OF THE HOUSE Family Meal 46 LOCAL LIBATIONS Drink like a Bartender 56 LAST BITE Heard in the Kitchen

FEATURES

INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS Peter Rummell Kaleb Harrell Brian Whittington

20 FARMWORKERS IN NORTHEAST FLORIDA The Faces Behind the Food We Eat 38 BEYOND THE BRIGADE Redefining Kitchen Culture 49 NEW LIFE FOR LEFTOVERS Reducing Food Waste with Composting

EdibleNEFlorida.com

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Without food, we cannot survive, and that is why issues that affect the food industry are so important. PUBLISHER Amy Robb amy@edibleneflorida.com

– Marcus Samuelsson,

Chef and Restaurateur

EDITOR Lauren Titus lauren@edibleneflorida.com

Have you ever worked in a food-related business? Perhaps

COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson

you have a career within the industry, or maybe you maintained a restaurant or farm job temporarily, while in college

DESIGN We Are Charette

or at another time in life. I have worked in several restaurants and bakeries over the years, and ever since, I’ve had a great appreciation for those in the business of growing, preparing and serving food. My first job in a restaurant was at The Homestead in Ocean Grove, New Jersey, and it offered me an opportunity to spend a summer on the Jersey shore, honing skills that have served me in work well-beyond the hospitality industry. It was physically demanding and every day was a challenge in pleasing customers and anticipating their needs while keeping the kitchen crew happy. Yet the job gave me invaluable skillsets – like fine-tuning my ability to think on my feet and collaborating with a group of people through unexpected situations. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, about 62,000 workers in food preparation and food service related jobs in Northeast Florida account for 10% of our region’s labor force. The industry is projected to grow 10% from 2014 to 2024, faster than the average for any other occupation, and food industry job opportunities are rated “excellent” with numerous openings expected for all roles. Statewide figures are even more impressive. With over 39,000 eating and drinking establishments in Florida, restaurant and food service jobs account for 14% of employment in the state, and that number is also projected to grow by 17% in the next ten years. This issue is dedicated to the food industry, and the myriad ways it impacts our lives beyond just putting food on our plates. We interview local business leaders and talk about the role food plays in helping to build our communities. We look at the challenges professional kitchens face and how restaurants in our region are redefining kitchen culture. Finally, we visit some of our area farms for a behind-the-scenes introduction to the people working hard to harvest the produce we eat. Though the features in this issue may seem like a departure from our usual content, we felt they offered an important framework for understanding the evolution of our food industry in Northeast Florida. We hope they will be conversation starters and a platform for thinking big about food and the role it plays in shaping our region's economy, communities and culture. As always, we love hearing feedback from you, so tell us what you think. And, when you are out and about enjoying the fruits of our local food industry's labor, be sure to tag us in social media @edibleneflorida.

PHOTOGRAPHY Jenna Alexander, Jesse Brantman, Maria Conover, Sean Kelly Conway, Miguel Emmanuelli, Rob Futrell, Stefanie Keeler, Lexi Mire, Amy Robb CONTRIBUTORS Kathy Ames Carr, Jeffrey Forrest, Kathy Godwin, Peter Kenney, Forrest Masters, Matthew Shaw, Erin Thursby, Sara True, Jack Twachtman SUBSCRIBE Edible Northeast Florida is published 6 times per year by Slidetray Media LLC. Subscriptions are $28 and available at edibleneflorida.com. FIND US ONLINE EdibleNEFlorida.com facebook.com/edibleneflorida instagram.com/edibleneflorida twitter.com/edibleneflorida pinterest.com/edibleneflorida CONTACT US Have a story you'd like to see featured in Edible Northeast Florida? Send us your ideas! editor@edibleneflorida.com Edible Northeast Florida 24 Cathedral Place, Suite 406 St. Augustine, FL 32084 p. 904-494-8281 No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. © 2017 Slidetray Media LLC. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER: Executive Chef Roger Regulacion at HOBNOB Food and Social Exchange. Photo by Rob Futrell

March/April 2017

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS JENNA ALEXANDER Telling a story through pictures, no matter the medium, has always been Jennaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thing. She is a photographer, illustrator and painter, currently working out of her studio in St. Augustine. She is drawn to natural light and airy images, and white is her favorite color. KAREN AMBROSIO Karen holds a Bachelor's Degree in Nutrition, a Master's Degree in Clinical Nutrition, and Certifications in Oncology Nutrition and Enteral Nutrition. She was the manager of the Nutrition Service in a hospital specializing in oncology in Mexico before moving to Jacksonville, Florida, to work as an Oncology Wellness Specialist at Ackerman Cancer Center. In her free time she enjoys speaking at conferences and workshops and runs a nutrition and wellness blog for her patients at Ackerman Cancer Center. JESSE BRANTMAN Jesse is an editorial and lifestyle photographer based in Jacksonville. He is also one half of the wedding photography duo, Jesse and Lexi Wedding Co. KATHY AMES CARR A native of Cleveland, Ohio, Kathy recently relocated to Northeast Florida. As a full-time freelance writer and editor, Kathy writes and copy edits for local, regional and national publications, including Edible Cleveland, Edible Northeast Florida, First Coast Magazine and Grow Forth Magazine. MARIA CONOVER Maria is a professional photographer and baker with a deep passion to share it all with a community. Growing up in the Midwest has given Maria a strong love for carbs and hearty wheats; living in the South, she has come to appreciate a good ole' southern happy hour. SEAN KELLY CONWAY Flagler grad and St. Augustine native, Kelly spent several years honing his documentary and street photography skills while working and traveling around Asia, before getting cozy in his home town (although the horizons still beckon). When not bothering shrimpers, Kelly can be found digging through anthropological field recordings, chasing surf, photographing motel signage and giving historic photo tours in downtown St. Augustine. MIGUEL EMMANUELLI Miguel spends his time photographing weddings and other lifestyle subjects in Jacksonville. JEFFREY FORREST Chef Forrest brings over 25 years of culinary experience to his role of Chef de Cuisine and Partner at Five Points Tavern. Born in Jacksonville, Florida he began his culinary career serving in the United States Marine Corp followed by formal training at The Rhode Island School of Design. After much travel and culinary experience, Jeffrey returned to Jacksonville in early 2016 and opened his latest venture in August. ROB FUTRELL A photographer in St. Augustine, Robâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion is telling real stories of real people with still images. Along with his wife Jill and children, Rob spends free time in

March/April 2017

the garden and enthusiastically shares the fruit of his labors in the form of preserves and jellies. He loves his job. KATHY GODWIN As owner of Kathy's Table, Kathy oversees the creation and distribution of gluten-free and dairy-free meal plans to customers across Duval and St. Johns counties. Kathy's Table releases a new menu every two weeks for those looking to eat healthy and improve the way they look and feel. STEFANIE KEELER Born and raised in Miami Beach, Florida, Stefanie is now a senior at Jacksonville University, working on her BFA (with a concentration in photography). In between shooting weddings and eating locally, she is a self-taught fiber artist and loves exploring Jacksonville. PETER KENNEY Peter has worked in professional kitchens since the age of 15, starting, as the best chefs do, washing dishes and bussing tables. As chef-co-owner of Purple Olive Bistro in St. Augustine, Peter offers a stylish yet casual restaurant featuring a unique menu that highlights his culinary skill while also allowing customers to exercise their own culinary creativity. FORREST MASTERS Forrest is a plant-based chef with a passion to make healthy food easy and accessible. Her company, Sprout Kitchen, is a nutritionally designed meal delivery service providing food that is 100% plant-based, non-GMO, gluten free, organic and locally sourced when possible. LEXI MIRE Lexi is a fine art photographer and one half of Jesse and Lex Wedding Co. Originally from Cape Canaveral, she's now digging her roots into Murray Hill. Her passion for photography started with creating self-portraits in secluded spots with her camera as company, and is now all about spending time with others. MATTHEW SHAW Matthew is a freelance journalist and native of Northeast Florida. A former editor at Folio Weekly and 904 Magazine, he is currently a Senior Writer at Surfer Magazine. He lives in Atlantic Beach. SARA TRUE Born and raised in Jacksonville, Florida, Sara is a twenty-something marketing professional with a passion for making plant-based desserts on the side. She loves experimenting with healthy, wholesome, local ingredients to create delicious vegan treats for her family, friends and blog, plantbasedbaker.com JACK TWACHTMAN Jack is the owner and general manager of BREW Five Points and has been an instrumental part of such Northeast Florida institutions as Burro Bar, Burro Bags and One Spark. His passions are specialty coffee and craft beer but he spends all his free time in the kitchen fermenting and preserving whatever he can get his hands on.

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EDIBLE TABLE

What's in Season? Here’s a list of the produce and seafood you can expect to find at your local farmers’ markets and on local menus in the coming months. Don’t hesitate to ask where your food is grown and sourced. PRODUCE

Oregano

Arugula

Parsley

Basil

Potatoes

Beans

Radicchio

Beets

Radishes

Bok choy

Rosemary

Broccoli

Rutabagas

Broccoli raab

Salad mix

Brussels sprouts

Sorrel (red veined)

Cabbage

Spinach

Carrots

Strawberries

Cauliflower

Swiss chard

Celery

Thyme

Chard

Turnips

Chives Cilantro

SEAFOOD

Collards

Amberjack

Cress

Bass

Cucumbers

Bluegill

Daikon radishes

Catfish

Dill

Cobia

Endive

Crappie

Escarole

Drum

Fennel

Flounder

Garlic chives

Lionfish

Grapefruit

Mackerel (King and Spanish)

Green onions

Mahi-Mahi

Kale

Mullet

Kohlrabi

Pompano

Kumquats

Shrimp (March only)

Leeks

Snapper

Loquats

Stone Crab

Mizuna

Sunfish

Mustard greens

Triggerfish

Nasturtium flowers

Tuna

Onions

Wahoo

Information provided by Florida Department of Agriculture, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, South Atlantic Fishery Management Council and other sources. Photo by Amy Robb.

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INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS I NTR O L A U R E N T IT U S | P H OT O S R O B FU TR ELL

t's no secret that Northeast Florida's food scene is rapidly evolving. Each month, new food and drink businesses emerge. Food artisans are starting new ventures. More craft breweries and distilleries are opening. Established restaurants and bars are pushing boundaries of culinary creativity in an increasingly robust market. Given all these exciting developments, we wanted to know more. In this issue, Edible set forth to explore the significance of these changes, specifically in the larger context of our communities. How is food shaping the way we think about the places we call home? Why has food become such an important consideration in our region's on-going development? What are the building blocks required to ensure new food enterprises grow sustainably?

To answer these questions and more, our editor sat down with a handful of local business leaders working both inside – and outside – our region's growing industry to get their unique perspectives. In their own words, interviewees expressed some common – and noteworthy – themes. First, there's collective value in supporting each other locally to raise the bar on great food. Second, competition with collaboration can be a very good thing. And finally-- the future of Northeast Florida's food boom is now, and all signs indicate the future will be bright.

Look for these three interviews throughout this issue, then visit www.edibleneflorida.com to hear more from other local leaders.

PETER RUMMELL

ALLEN LO, KIN HO, K ALEB HARRELL

BRIAN WHITTINGTON

page 10

page 16

page 34

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INDUSTRY INTERVIEW:

PETER RUMMELL

Having created some of the world’s most interesting and iconic places, Peter Rummell is perhaps best known locally as a founding board member and the major financial backer of Jacksonville’s One Spark. As a real estate developer, entrepreneur, civic leader, investor and businessman, Peter has held executive positions as the Chairman of Walt Disney Imagineering, chairman and chief executive officer of The St. Joe Company and the Vice Chairman of Rockefeller Center Management in New York City. With his global perspective and background, we asked him for his thoughts on placemaking and how the culinary scene can help shape a community’s identity.

“Jacksonville has been slow to claim the role of food in placemaking and creating an identity. The question is, what is the identity here?”

Photo by Rob Futrell

March/April 2017

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

In your business, you spend a lot of time thinking about "placemaking." Describe what "placemaking" means and why it's so important to consider in the development of a community? I think a lot about placemaking. The mistake most developers make is they get placemaking and architecture confused. Architecture is a piece of placemaking, but it is not the be all, end all. Placemaking is a made-up word the real estate business put together. It refers to how you create a place that is real and genuine. What everybody is after, I think, is that feeling of being comfortable. How many times have you walked into a room someplace, and your shoulders go down, and you just feel comfortable, you don’t know why, but you say “I like it.” That’s placemaking. Your goal is to make people comfortable. It makes them want to come back. What role does food play in placemaking? That's what I meant when I said placemaking is more than architecture. Certainly in the course of my 45-year career, food plays a much more important role now than it did when I started. It’s a bigger part of the genre than it was in my early days. It’s become one of those building blocks of comfortable. How do you believe food and drink contribute to the development of a city's sense of community? Jacksonville has been slow to claim the role of food in placemaking and creating an identity. The question is, what is the identity here? New Orleans is historic and the food feels like it is part of the history. New York has a food reputation because it has everything. So they both have reputations but for very different reasons. One of the things Jacksonville has to decide is: are we New York or New Orleans? Is our reputation because we are true to our roots, and we’re reaching towards southern lore, or is it because we are an experimental kingdom and we’ve got people doing all kinds of cool, trendy stuff? We could go either way. Jacksonville has an opportunity, beyond food, to make its name. We have an opportunity to fashion ourselves, and food is an important part of that. One of the things that frustrates me is that we haven’t used the things we have well, like the river. The only place in downtown Jacksonville you can get a predictable meal on the river is Hooters. Part of what we’re trying to do, and it’s part of placemaking, is to use the assets we have. Is the food and drink industry critical to the development of our region? I’ve been thinking about my career in the real estate business. I started in 1971 on Hilton Head Island and food back then was sort of a necessity. We had restaurants but there wasn’t a collection of cool, interesting, neat places to eat. There’s something that’s happened to our world that has put food front and center as a mandatory part of placemaking. This is a relatively new influence, it’s 10 or 15 years old, and it's not just the millennials getting old enough to drink. I saw a cuisine destination survey recently; it said that people make 75% of their decision to go someplace based on food. That wouldn’t have been true 30 years ago.

You were a major supporter of One Spark for years, and presumably, this means you believe in the value of start-up development. What advice would you give to food start-ups in the region? The enormous lesson I’ve learned from being involved with so many start-ups is the lack of business awareness that people with ideas have. I am continually surprised by someone who may have a great technological product but doesn’t have a clue about how to secure it legally, about how to put a cash flow together, how to get a loan. At One Spark, we saw all kinds of ideas that were in desperate need of what I call “back of the house” work. The majority of the help we gave at One Spark was not technological help, it’s been business help. And I bet the food business is the same way. Your latest project is the development of The District on the Southbank of Jacksonville. One of the goals of the District is to promote healthy living. How do you define healthy living? One of the things we have added to the description of The District is multi-generational living. Partly because I am 71, I am obsessed with the fact that I don’t want to go live with a bunch of other 71-year-olds. And frankly my 4-plus years of experience at One Spark is one of the things that made me realize that. I really get energized by being around bright, young energetic people. One of the ways we can attract all ages is a food and beverage scene. How will your selection of food and drink purveyors at The District reflect your commitment to healthy living? Has an effort been made to recruit local businesses? One of the things we have been toying with is we need to develop a relationship with a farm who can be a purveyor of stuff. It’s on our short list of things to get done, and maybe we could provide them with some guaranteed customers. Will there be community gardens at The District where residents can grow their own food? We only have 30 acres, so we’re trying to figure out how to grow some things onsite. With all kinds of horizontal walls for vertical farming, we want to be smart about how we use the space. We’re going to set a tone and an atmosphere. One of the terms we use is unintentional exercise, and that’s what gardening is. If there is one thing our local food industry could do to help foster the sustainable development of our region, what would it be? Continue to be dependable customers of local vendors. If all the restaurants at the District got together and were dependable clients for a 40-acre farm, that helps everybody. That would be the beginning of sustainability, which is predictability. Also, cooperation within the food industry. Hopefully businesses will see the benefit of competition in that it continues to attract more people overall to the community. I hope we can create a spirit of teamwork, that we’re all in this together. And that the competition is not the guy next store, it is the guy in another city.

EdibleNEFlorida.com

Harvest Diaries

CARROTS

hese root vegetables are wellknown for helping with eyesight, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t underestimate them! Carrots can do much more for your health. In nature, the more colorful a fruit or vegetable, the more anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties it has. So the next time you cook with carrots, choose the darker, more colorful options - like purple carrots, which are packed with healthy pigments. Purple carrots have high levels of Vitamin C and antioxidants, which protect against colon cancer, relieve rheumatoid arthritis and even help prevent varicose veins. White carrots, on the other hand, have few pigments and therefore fewer health properties. Visit our nutrition specialistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog at: ackermancancercenter.com/blog

EDIBLE INGREDIENT

RED LENTIL CARROT SOUP Take advantage of carrot season and make this creamy vegan soup for an easy midweek dinner. Serves 4-6 | Recipe by Forrest Masters, Sprout Kitchen | Photo by Amy Robb

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

tablespoons coconut oil

In a large pot, sauté onions, garlic, celery and ginger in coconut oil for

small onion, chopped

cloves garlic, chopped

stalk celery, chopped

teaspoon grated ginger

tablespoon red curry paste

tablespoon salt

cup red lentils, washed

cups water or vegetable stock

about 5 minutes. Add curry paste and salt. Sauté for 2 minutes, until curry starts to become fragrant. Add lentils and water/vegetable stock, then simmer for 30 minutes, or until lentils are soft. Remove soup from pot and blend with 1 cup shredded carrot and red pepper. Return blended mix to the pot. Add coconut milk, spinach or other greens and remaining ½ cup shredded carrots. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until spinach is wilted. Garnish with cilantro, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

1½ cups carrots, grated 1

cup red pepper, chopped

cup coconut milk

cups chopped spinach, or other leafy greens

cup chopped cilantro

Fresh vegetables for this shoot generously provided by Ben Wells Produce.

CARROT TOP PESTO TARTINES Don’t throw away those carrot tops! Make this easy alternative to traditional pesto for these open faced sandwiches. Serves 4-6 Recipe by Lauren Titus | Photo by Amy Robb

INGREDIENTS ½ cup pecans, toasted

½ cup olive oil

cups carrot tops, chopped

½ cup cilantro or basil, chopped

cloves garlic

Salt and pepper, to taste

PREPARATION Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. To make sandwiches, spread pesto on toasted bread and add your favorite toppings: grated carrots, cauliflower slices, red pepper slices, cheese, etc.

July/August 2016

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St. Augustine

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TRADITIONAL MEXICAN STREET FOOD

Pick-up. Catering. Custom Orders. Saturdays at the St. Augustine Farmers Market. mayansummer.com | 585-734-3207

115 La Quinta Place, St. Augustine Open Daily from 9 am to 6 pm 904.429.3070 | www.rypeandreadi.com

Taproom located at 218 West King Street, St. Augustine bogbrewery.com | 904.679.3146

Juniper prepared foods

82 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine 904.824.5280 luliscupcakes.com

410 Anastasia Boulevard, St. Augustine 904.826.4040 www.mellowmushroom.com

134 Sea Grove Main Street, St. Augustine Beach | 904.429.9647Â www.TerraAcquaRestaurant.com

73 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine 904.342.7617 www.juniper-market.com

Spanish Inspired, Locally-Rooted Cuisine 25 Cuna Street in Downtown St. Augustine 904.810.2400 | michaelstastingroom.com

100% whole food, plant based, meal delivery. info@thesproutkitchen.com | 904.217.4954 www.thesproutkitchen.com

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INDUSTRY INTERVIEW:

HAWKERS ASIAN STREET FAIR

Wayne Yung, Kin Ho, Allen Lo and Kaleb Harrell opened Hawkers Asian Street Fare in Five Points in 2014. Having just launched their second Northeast Florida location, in Neptune Beach, we sat down with Harrell to talk about the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and why, as entrepreneurs from Orlando, they chose to expand to Jacksonville, an untested market for their fast-casual eatery.

How did Hawkers get its start?

We all had family members owning restaurants, but we really did not have a ton of experience before we opened Hawkers. We have always loved to travel and would go looking for great food we couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find in Orlando. At home we would get together with friends, especially at Thanksgiving, and have these contests about who could bring the best dish. We would throw in $10 each and the winner would get the money. Our gatherings grew, and some of the older generations started bringing comfort food, family recipes, from different parts of Asia. That became the basis of Hawkers. We chose that name because it is associated with food you buy from street vendors in Asia.

“It feels like we are on the cusp of Florida’s culinary growth. We believe we can add to the diversity and help bring customers by enhancing choices in a particular market.”

Left to right: Allen Lo, Kin Ho, Kaleb Harrell Photo by Rob Futrell

EdibleNEFlorida.com

What drove the decision to expand your concept to Jacksonville?

The first year we were open, we had to perfect a consistent product. We did a lot of training with the staff and focused on controlling the flavor profiles of each dish along with the internal running of the restaurant. We focused on what it takes to operate one location successfully, especially one that is not chef-driven. We had a lot of discussions on how we wanted to grow, and still stay true to our values and beliefs: Be Disruptive, Always Care, Never Compromise. We knew we did not want to open another location in Orlando. Florida doesn’t have a ton of neighborhoods that offer what we were looking for, buildings with character and a sense of place that may be underutilized or underappreciated. Tampa seemed the logical next step. We had not spent much time in Jacksonville, but when we heard about Five Points and then visited, we all felt this was the place to be. The behavioral characteristics and buying patterns of the area’s residents matched with what we wanted to do. From what we saw, there were enough people who appreciated good food and had some interest in being adventurous when it came to cuisine. What role does food play in placemaking and a region's development?

We saw opportunity in the Five Points neighborhood for a casual restaurant. The area had a little bit of a stigma to it but it was where all the cool kids were hanging out. Black Sheep was already there, so we met with those guys. That was the turning point for us. We saw the benefits of putting in time and money in the middle of the neighborhood’s transformation. Having another business there like Black Sheep validated our feeling that it was the right place to be. Food was helping to draw people back to this neighborhood and driving some of

its revitalization. We heard a lot that the beach is a separate community, and that folks don’t cross the ditch. So when we looked for a second location in Jacksonville, the beach seemed the logical place. We didn’t find an existing building, but we still wanted to fit the character of the beach neighborhood. Our business culture is to become part of the community and our general managers join local non-profit organizations. We see that as a way to invest in the community. How do different types of restaurants enhance overall economic development?

It feels like we are on the cusp of Florida’s culinary growth, and we believe we can add to the diversity and help bring customers by enhancing choices in a particular market. If we have octopus on the menu, maybe a chef down the street will also offer it, and diners will be more adventurous by seeing octopus in multiple restaurants. There’s a lot of room for opportunity in Jacksonville, with a large population who wants great food, more options. How does Jacksonville continue to shape its identity without losing its character?

The answer is based on collaboration and agreement within the community. We’re improving while paying homage to what was here before, a marriage of the old and new. We don’t want to lose too much of what was here, we want to accentuate that. Part of the solution is also recognizing that competition is good, it provides more options and increases the overall appeal and attraction of the area. Whether people eat at Hawkers, Black Sheep or wherever, they park, walk and come back another time to eat somewhere else.

Simple ingredients. True flavor. An attention to detail that elevates the ordinary.

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Fresh, Local Seafood. Stunning Intracoastal Views. 14549 Beach Blvd., Jacksonville, FL 32250 904.223.1534 | marker32.com

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FARMWORKERS IN NORTHEAST FLORIDA THE FACES BEHIND THE FOOD WE EAT W O R D S MAT T H E W S H AW | P H OT O S MIG U EL EMMAN U ELLI AN D SEAN KELLY CO N WAY

he rural city of Hilliard sits roughly 30 miles northwest of Jacksonville. In this part of the state, US 1 seems to stretch out as it transitions from an industrial thoroughfare to a bucolic parkway. Palm trees line the median cutting through downtown, and Hilliard – with one grocery store, a few gas stations, several “dollar” stores and no reasonable

March/April 2017

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

public transportation – is not dissimilar to other agrarian regions sprinkled across Florida’s nearly 70,000 square miles. Mary Whiten grew up in Hilliard. As a child she used to work collecting eggs for the chicken farms in the area. One farm supplied eggs to Tyson, Inc. and, as Whiten recalls, paid children $11 a day.

Opposite: Seasonal farmworkers in Northeast Florida harvest broccoli during winter, when the weather is cooler. Above: David Pelayo has been with Smith's Farm for four years, packing broccoli to be shipped to Winn-Dixie and other retailers throughout the country.

Gourmet Ground In-House Burgers | Hand-Cut Fries | Fish Tacos | Extensive Craft Beer Selection

363 Atlantic Blvd. in Atlantic Beach | 904.241.POES (7637) |

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"Can we follow the law and have clean, safe, good conditions? Yes, and a lot of people are doing that."

“I used to garden at home when I was a kid,” Whiten hollers over the whirling of electrical noise and loud lapping of rolling waters, as she gives me a tour of Traders Hill Farm. Moments earlier, after rinsing off the soles of our shoes we ducked into a large greenhouse, roughly the size of a basketball gymnasium. Aside from the gentle roar of rushing water, a subtle “fishy” smell is emanating from six large royal blue basins. I follow her up a small staircase to get a peek inside the containers. Roughly two hundred tilapia fish, their scales shining in various shades of brown and grey, are slithering around tanks. “We didn’t do any farming like this, that’s for sure,” Whiten said, pointing at the fish. “We grew in the dirt.” Traders Hill practices a closed-loop farming process called aquaponics. Using live fish to produce waste water, Traders Hill’s crops are grown in the nitrogen-rich grow beds. The beds produce clean water,

which is then recycled back to the fish. Using this process, Traders Hill grows fresh greens such as kale, lettuce, romaine and chard for restaurants and stores in Northeast Florida, such as Southern Roots, Community Loaves, Native Sun and Grassroots Natural Market. Whiten was one of the first farmworkers hired at Traders Hill. She now serves as Crew Chief Leader, overseeing all the daily operations from cleaning the fish tanks to harvesting the greens to packing up the delivery orders. Whiten is one of 12 farmworkers employed by Traders Hill. She earns a salary, has access to benefits and enjoys five days paid vacation. She takes home lettuce and is treated to employee lunches several days a week. In fact, all the farmworkers at Traders Hill enjoy these perks. Operators such Traders Hill founder Angela TenBroeck are doing their best to make farmworker compensation a major

priority, but it’s not always easy, especially as the size of a farm operation increases. To understand some of the challenges, it is helpful to have a view of how farms are staffed, the source of the labor pool and the regulations that accompany agribusiness. Data on farmworkers in Florida can be difficult to find. Much of our region's farm work is seasonal, undertaken by migrant workers. The Florida Department of Health, reports that 150,000 to 200,000 migrant and seasonal farmworkers and their families annually travel and work in Florida. The migrant labor camp program currently issues over 700 permits in 33 counties ensuring that 34,000 migrant and seasonal farmworkers, and families live in housing that meets or exceeds standards set by law. A report by the Florida Association of Community Health Centers titled “Farmworkers in the Southeast” also offers some semblance of a profile.

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“It’s important to me that we take care of our people,” TenBroeck said.

The greatest number of farmworkers reside in Florida, which the report calls a “Sending State,” meaning that “migrant farmworkers use [it] as a home base” from which they migrate north and back, returning to Florida at the end of the northern agricultural seasons. Migrants from Mexico make up the greatest population of farmworkers in the Southeast. According to the U.S. Department of Labor's National Agricultural Workers Survey (NAWS), nearly 50 percent of the Southeast’s farmworker population is undocumented. USDA’s National Agricultural Statistics Service reported in November 2016 that farm operators paid their hired workers an average wage of $13.25 per hour. Obtaining accurate information about farmworkers is sometimes hard to find, and understanding all the dynamics affecting farm labor is a very complex issue. Yet, there is evidence in our region that suggests a bleak picture of migrant living and working conditions is not necessarily the norm. There are many farms in the area intent on providing livable wages and healthy housing conditions. TenBroeck started Traders Hill Farm with the help of Dick and Bridgette Blaudow, who own the property. They’ve been community-minded from the beginning, hiring mostly from within the city of Hilliard, often single mothers, or women with no previ-

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ABOVE: Crew chief leader Mary Whiten works alongside Kassi Witcher at Traders Hill Farm. As packing manager, Witcher is responsible for fulfilling all the farm's outgoing orders. RIGHT: Barbara K Trouille works in Traders Hill cold-storage facility, where hundreds of heads of green, red and purple lettuces are grown using aquaponics.

ous farming experience. Margins in farming are inherently small and income is dependent on what buyers will pay. By offering its employees a salary, Traders Hill is taking a risk in trying to change the way farm labor is compensated. “It’s important to me that we take care of our people,” TenBroeck said. “It’s not easy. I’m an entrepreneur, living my dream. So far we’ve done well.” Given the size and nature of her farm, Ten Broeck is able to rely on local residents to run the operation. Larger growers with crops that need to be picked and packed within a season, however, may follow different hiring practices, and employ seasonal or migrant workers, especially given the local labor shortage in agriculture. Migrant workers typically come to the US under an H-2A visa, which allows legal entry into the country for temporary or seasonal

agricultural work, and employers must meet rigorous requirements to participate. The filing of an H-2A application is an extensive and expensive process. In Florida, members of the Florida Fruit and Vegetable Association have access to resources for help in completing the filing and processing guest worker entry and documentation. Roughly 90 miles south of Hilliard, just east of Palatka, the small farming community of Hastings, population about 600, is home to fairly large-scale cabbage, broccoli and potato farms where several growers use both local and migrant seasonal harvest labor. Many farmworkers live on farm labor camps, which are required by law to comply with various regulatory standards set by the government though enforcement of these regulations varies considerably from camp to camp, and gaps still exist. Florida county health departments are responsible for ensuring uniformity and continuity with Migrant Labor Camp Program rules, providing plan review and permitting, pre-inspection and routine inspections, investigations, education and application of state laws and regulations. Tara Smith Vighetti is Vice President of Smith Packing, an East Coast grower/shipper of broccoli, cauliflower and potatoes with winter production at Smith Farms located in Hastings. Her family has been farming since 1859; along with her sister Emily and cousin Zachary, Tara is the sixth generation in the business. Smith’s operates with about 45 full-time employees for year-round tasks and about 300 migrant workers for seasonal harvesting and packing in various locations. While the full-time employees are either hourly or salaried with vacation time and other benefits, “we employ migrant labor for seasonal harvest jobs two ways, through the H-2A process and direct employment,” says Vighetti. “We don’t

There may still be mistreatment of farmworkers but change is taking place, pushed by both the supply chain and consumers. have a labor contractor, we have a crew foreman who helps us put the crew together and we contract directly with the employee. There is nobody in between.” Vighetti acknowledges the farm’s commitment to providing quality housing and safe, healthy working conditions. “Doing the right thing can be expensive and it’s arduous and ongoing,” she says. “But it is just as important to us as anything. It’s as much a part of who we are as the product in the box.” She is proud of their housing, which is rigorously regulated and inspected by the county health department. The farm provides and maintains housing and transportation for the crews and pays cooks who live in the camp and prepare meals.

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ABOVE: Crew foreman Antonio has been working at Smith Packing since 1990. RIGHT: Farmworkers need to possess knife skills and the ability to quickly harvest high quality broccoli crowns.

“This business is competitive. A stable migrant workforce is essential to our success. We want our people to want to come to work for us. Our crew foreman Antonio has been coming with our crew for over 20 years,” says Vighetti. “These people are family. This is not mindless manual labor. A trained farm harvest crew that knows the job, what to cut, what to leave, how to pack, is not a dime a dozen.” “For us to do business with the kind of companies we do business with, we have to operate in an environment of integrity for all. This is the kind of company we want to be because I want to be around for another generation. You don’t do that by trying to find the short cut,” Vighetti says. Stella Mouzon first came to Hastings in 1998 with the St. Vincent’s Mobile Health Outreach Ministry and now serves as manager of the program. With a fleet of half a dozen vehicles, the outreach ministry provides preventative health and dental services to agricultural workers in both Putnam and St. Johns County. “We’ve become [the farmworkers’] primary care doctor,” Mouzon said. “It’s a preventive model in that we are trying to maintain patients’ diseases so they don’t progress, but also we are trying to screen new patients.” Much of the mobile health unit’s work involves educating farmworkers about protecting their skin with sunscreen, wearing sunglasses to prevent the development of cataracts and consuming nutritious foods. “Diet is really the hardest thing to control,” Mouzon said. “We see a lot of diabetics and pre-diabetics.” Farm owners and operators, corporate buyers, food retailers and the government all play a role in upholding workplace safety. And so do consumers. More than ever people want to know not only where their food came from but also about the integrity of the producers. Vighetti says “Retailers are beginning to ask for more assurances on social compliance with regard to fair labor practices.” Consumer behavior has become a major factor in reinforcing this

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and pushing the industry to show results. The Produce Marketing Association and United Fresh, two of the largest agricultural industry associations have formed a Joint Committee on Responsible Labor Practices. The committee has so far drafted an Ethical Charter, which provides a framework for demonstrating and driving responsible labor practices across the supply chains, assuring workplace safety, respecting worker dignity and complying with all applicable legal requirements. Vighetti acknowledges there may still be mistreatment of farmworkers, but says “despite the fact that these are the stories that get the most press, in my experience it is not the norm.” Change is taking place, pushed by both the supply chain and consumers. “What the consumer wants to know is what about the guy that picked this

food? What’s his life like? Is he being treated well? Where did [the produce] come from? That is what is going to change the behavior,” says Vighetti. “Yes, it’s important to tell the story about people who aren’t being treated fairly.” “It is just as important to tell the other side of the story. We all hear about the bad actors, and its reprehensible, so we should. But there are also a vast number of farming organizations, mostly families like ours, trying to follow the law and pay for it, and sometimes struggling to do that because it can be expensive. Can we follow the law and have clean, safe, good conditions? Yes, and a lot of people are doing that.” There are many groups advocating on behalf of farmworkers in Florida. Organizations like the Agricultural Justice Project (AJP) are developing certifications intended to help educate consumers about the ways in which farms treat their workers. To earn the Food Justice Certification developed by AJP, farms commit to higher standards regarding hiring practices, working conditions, pay, benefits and training for workers. Farms also have to agree to stipulations regarding negotiations, pricing and contracting with buyers. Jordan Brown is the owner and operator of Family Gardens, an

“Honestly, farmworkers are not asking for anything special, all we’re trying to do is give people a regular job, with regular safety precautions, regular pay, regular rights and responsibilities.”

organic farm located on twenty acres in Gainesville and the first farm in the Southeast to earn a Food Justice Certification. Each of Brown’s five full-time employees earns a living wage. Brown, for his part, is understated about his commitment to the

Food Justice Certification standards. “Honestly, farmworkers are not asking for anything special,” he said with a soft, southern drawl. “All we’re trying to do is give people a regular job, with regular safety precautions, regular pay, regular rights and responsibilities.” Family Gardens relies heavily on customers who enroll in its CSA, but fruits and vegetables the farm sells to grocers will carry a Food Justice Certification label, something that Brown hopes consumers will respond to. “I think consumers can help change things by demanding what’s right,” Brown said. Back in Hastings, Mouzon reflected on her clients and how her nearly two decades working with impoverished agricultural communities has changed the way she buys produce. “I didn’t know much about the lives of farmworkers when I first came on board,” she said. “It does change the way you think about your food. Now when I go into Publix to buy broccoli, I think about the men who’ve harvested it.”

EdibleNEFlorida.com

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SEASONAL PLATE

MAYPORT SHRIMP SALAD Recipe by Chef Jeffrey Forrest, Five Points Tavern | Photo by Maria Conover INGREDIENTS

½ cup cucumber, ¼-inch dice

pounds unpeeled, large raw

¼ cup horseradish, grated

Mayport shrimp (26/30 count)

tablespoon kosher salt

quarts court bouillon or water,

teaspoon sugar

for poaching Vinaigrette: Zest of 4 lemons (yellow only) 8 ripe kumquats, sliced in ⅛-inch-thick

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 6 ounces baby arugula

transfer shrimp to bowl with ice water. Drain, peel and devein shrimp. Use a microplane to zest lemons and avoid the white pith. Combine all ingredients for vinaigrette in a nonreactive bowl. Mix gently to distribute ingredients evenly. Let rest for 30 minutes to allow flavors to marry and develop. Combine shrimp and vinaigrette in large nonreactive bowl and mix gently to coat shrimp

PREPARATION

with vinaigrette. Divide baby arugula

Fill medium bowl with ice water; set

¼ cup lemon juice

evenly and place in the center of 4

aside. Bring court bouillon to boil. Add

wide, shallow bowls. Place ¼ of dressed

½ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil

shrimp; reduce heat to low, cover

shrimp on top of baby arugula in each

rounds, seeds removed

¼ cup shallots, ⅛-inch dice ¼ cup chives, cut to ⅛-inch

and poach just until shells are pink

bowl. Spoon remaining vinaigrette over

and shrimp are opaque in center, 3

shrimp and arugula. Serves 4 as main

to 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon,

course or 8 as a starter.

SEASONAL PLATE

ORANGE ROSEMARY STUFFED CHICKEN Forget the dinner bell - the aroma of this savory baked chicken dish will bring everyone to the table! Serves 4 | Recipe by Kathy Godwin, Kathy’s Table | Photo by Lexi Mire

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

4 bone-in, skin on chicken breasts

Preheat oven to 375°. While the oven preheats, combine

3 tablespoons orange zest 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice

the orange zest, juice, rosemary, oil, salt, pepper and garlic in a small bowl to form a paste. Use your fingers to separate the skin from the breast. With a spoon, stuff

3 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary

the paste under the skin (about 1 tablespoon per breast).

2 tablespoons olive oil

Spread the remaining paste all over the top of the skin

1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

and on the backside of the breasts. Lay the 4 breasts on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 165°.

VEGETABLE LO MEIN This easy stir-fry uses spaghetti squash instead of noodles for a gluten-free spin on a classic dish. Recipe by Chef Peter Kenney, Purple Olive Photos by Jenna Alexander

INGREDIENTS 1 large spaghetti squash, cooked and scraped 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon ginger, chopped 1 datil pepper, sliced in rings ½ cup sliced green onions 1 medium carrot, sliced ½ cup broccoli, chopped ½ cup kale, chopped 1 lime, cut in half Cilantro and basil, optional Sesame Seeds 2 teaspoons vegetable oil

For the Sauce: 4 tablespoons tamari ½ tablespoon rice wine vinegar ½ tablespoon sugar ½ tablespoon sesame oil

PREPARATION To make sauce, whisk together all ingredients in a bowl or measuring cup. Heat wok or large sauté pan on medium high heat. Add vegetable oil, garlic, ginger, datil peppers, juice from ½ lime, green onions and carrots. Stir in pan quickly for about a minute. Add broccoli and kale. Stir in pan to cook vegetables. Add cilantro and basil if desired. Add cooked spaghetti squash and stir to heat. Add the sauce mixture and sesame seeds and stir to combine. Squeeze the other half of lime over top before serving.

EdibleNEFlorida.com

GROWING THE GOOD LIFE

WHAT'S IN A NAME? T H E L O W- D O W N O N F O O D PA C K A G I N G L A B E L S

IN TRO L A UR EN TI T U S | W OR DS A G RE E N E R WO R LD

he array of terms on food labels can be challenging to decipher. You’ll see claims on packaged foods and menus such as “natural,” “free-range,” “locally grown,” and “grain-fed,” for instance. But what exactly do these terms mean? We’ve gathered a handful of popular marketing terminology used for food labels, and broken them down, to help you make sense of the language. Compiled from A Greener World’s Food Labels Exposed, these are words and phrases found frequently when shopping or dining out, and they offer a starting point for understanding what’s really behind the label.

BUZZ WORDS Organic/Certified Organic: All products sold as “organic” must meet the USDA National Organic Program production and handling standards. Certification is mandatory for farmers selling more than $5,000 of organic products per year, and is verified by an accredited certifying agency. In general, organic production limits the use of chemicals, pesticides, hormones, antibiotics, and other inputs. However, it does not strictly define production practices related to space per animal or outdoor access requirements—for example, confinement areas are permitted to fatten organic beef cattle—that can have significant welfare implications for animals. Definition by USDA food safety and inspection service.

Foods which contain GMO do not have to be labeled, so the consumer has no way of knowing whether they are consuming products that contain GMO ingredients. Genetically Modified Organisms: GMOs are plants and animals whose genetic make-up has been altered to exhibit traits that they would not normally have, like longer shelf-life, a different color or resistance to certain chemicals or pests. Genetic modification is

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currently allowed in conventional farming. As foods which contain GMO do not have to be labeled, the consumer has no way of knowing whether they are consuming products that contain GMO ingredients, were produced by animals fed GMO feeds or, in the future, came from genetically modified animals. No legal or regulated definition.

Natural/All Natural: A product containing no artificial ingredient or added color and is only minimally processed (a process which does not fundamentally alter the raw product) may be labeled natural. The label must explain the use of the term natural (such as: no added colorings or artificial ingredients; minimally processed). As defined by the USDA, the term applies only to how meat is processed after slaughter. Often found on meat and livestock product labels, this commonly used term does not refer in any way to how animals are raised, so the farming system may have involved feedlot and confinement systems, tail docking and other mutilations, or the routine use of antibiotics, for example. Definition by USDA food safety and inspection service. No independent third party verification.

A N I M A L W E L FA R E

HORMONES

Cage Free: Hens laying eggs labeled as “cage free” are raised without using cages but still almost always live inside large barns or warehouses, often with many thousands of other birds. This term does not explain if the birds have any access to the outside, whether any outside area was pasture or a bare lot, or if they were raised entirely indoors in overcrowded conditions. Beak cutting is permitted to prevent feather pecking. No verification by an independent third party unless eggs are also covered by an additional claim, such as Certified Humane. No legal or regulated definition.

Hormone Free/ No Hormones: This phrase is not permitted for use on the labeling of beef, pork or poultry, as animal proteins contain naturally occurring hormones regardless of the production practice. No legal or regulated definition.

Hens laying eggs labeled as “cage free” are raised without using cages but still almost always live inside large barns or warehouses, often with many thousands of other birds.

Visit agreenerworld.org for a full copy of the Free Guide to Food Labels. Or download their free app from the App Store or Google Play.

No Hormones Added: Hormones are not allowed in raising hogs or poultry. Therefore, the claim “no hormones added” cannot be used on the labels of pork or poultry unless it is followed by a statement that says “Federal regulations prohibit the use of hormones.” Definition by USDA food safety and inspection service.

Free Range/Free Roaming: Although “free-range” is a positive sounding term with a legal definition, consumers should be aware that the type of outdoor access provided (such as pasture or dirt lot), the size of the outdoor area, the length of time the birds are required to have outdoor access, and how this must be verified is not legally defined and therefore varies greatly from facility to facility. Crowding is not uncommon. This claim provides no assurance of any other high-welfare welfare or environmental management practices. Definition by USDA food safety and inspection service. No independent third party verification. Humane/Humanely Raised/High Welfare: Buyers should be cautious about producers making claims of humane or high welfare treatment without independent third-party certification. No legal or regulated definition.No independent third party verification.

ANIMAL DIET Vegetarian-Fed/Fed a Vegetarian Diet: Animals have been fed a diet free of animal products. This does not mean animals were raised outdoors on pasture or were fed a 100% grassfed diet. No legal or regulated definition. No independent third party verification.

Grain-Fed/Grain Fed Poultry: Grain-fed/grainfed implies that birds were fed a vegetarian diet without actually specifying it. No legal or regulated definition. No independent third party verification.

EdibleNEFlorida.com

INDUSTRY INTERVIEW:

CHEF BRIAN WHITTINGTON Brian Whittington, a James Beard-nominated chef, started in St. Augustine at the South Beach Grill as a dishwasher, then eventually helped launch Zhanras, Rhett’s and Coquina Beach, before going on to Jacksonville's Restaurant Orsay in 2011 after culinary school. He recently opened Preserved Restaurant in the Historic Lincolnville neighborhood of St. Augustine. We caught up with Chef Whittington to get his thoughts on the role food plays in economic development and community.

Why did you come back to St. Augustine to open Preserved in Lincolnville?

I went to Jacksonville to work because I was frustrated with the dining scene in St. Augustine. It felt like trying to serve quality ingredients wasn’t able to be done back then, and a big thing for me was returning do what I wanted: provide quality service, serve food with local ingredients and highlight what’s going on here. The opportunity to open Preserved, in this space, with the history of this building was compelling. I originally said no to it. But I talked to some people about St. Augustine and looked at the logistics. The negative history of this location was extremely concerning to the city commission, and this corner was a major problem. The market here before had a pretty bad reputation, and it gave the impression that Lincolnville was a bad area. I had multiple meetings with commissioners to see what they wanted to do to revive this location and whether it matched up with what I wanted to do. We talked about my target clientele and how to fit into the neighborhood. There’s been an evolution in St. Augustine over the last 5 or 6 years, to say the least. Even the skillset of line cooks I hired is now better than when I left. There’s been a push from chefs to source from local farmers, and we’ve seen new farmers come in. It’s not just the chefs or cooks, farmers are working to meet the demand too, which is allowing me to do what I originally wanted six years ago. What is the significance of the name of the restaurant?

During the build-out process, because the building is historic, there was a big push to preserve as much as possible. The other thing was a tie-in to the neighborhood; trying to preserve the good things that are going on. The historical significance of this neighborhood has been dramatically overlooked, and a lot of businesses are starting to recognize that. On the food side, we pickle and cure seasonal produce to have it throughout the year. It's preserved. How do you view the use of food for neighborhood revitalization?

The months leading up to opening the restaurant, the amount of traffic we saw coming through wasn’t a lot. It’s amazing how much more traffic we've seen since we opened. The Ice Plant, the Blue Hen, they’re also bringing people back into this neighborhood. People now

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see the historic plaques and buildings and they hear trolleys talking about Martin Luther King Jr.. It helps people understand what happened in Lincolnville. It's not just downtown St. Augustine that's historic. How do food and drink contribute to the development of a sense of community?

I think our presence is good for the community. We had people come in while we were getting set up, saying I was coming in to do upscale food, which they didn’t want. They said we were going to live off tourism. But honestly, what we are trying to do is get locals in; people who want to invest in the community and who have influence in the area. We want to do what we can to be part of this neighborhood and help in its restoration and revitalization. Hopefully, we're encouraging people to look around and think about what is going on here, now and in the past. What restaurants or other businesses do you see as models for creating a sense of place?

I think the Ice Plant and the St. Augustine Distillery proved you could bring a solid business into this area and do well. I love the Floridian too. I think they are the purest form of Florida-style restaurant and they are very true to what they want to do. They are probably one of the leading restaurants here in town for sourcing local. How does your selection of vendors at Preserved reflect your commitment to supporting the local food system?

We want to be able to connect to the people who are providing the food before we touch it. Having that connection, to actually talk to local farmers, that’s very important to us. We try to have interactions with as many of our farmers as possible. When you get staff to understand where our food comes from, there is a very different interaction at the table. They talk about the products and it's more authentic; it's exciting to explain where something comes from. They can say “I was on the farm, I touched the grains of rice on the plants, I know what this is and I know why they do it.” What is your vision for your role in the neighborhood?

Part of my role is to make sure every line cook and every front of the house staff member here can fully respect the process of food production. Starting with that small group of people here in the restaurant, the idea slowly gets back out into the neighborhood. Staff talk about area farms and spread the concept. It starts to build a sense of pride in sourcing local and supporting our community. What can our local food industry could do to help foster sustainable development of our region?

Do what you can to support as much local as possible. If you really believe in supporting local and you really believe in farmers, you can’t give in to the forces pushing you to become something you don't want to be. Also supporting the restaurants that are doing the same is important, so we attract more restaurants with the same standards and beliefs. It takes a group of restaurants to support, not only farmers, but each other. We need to have a big picture view instead of battling one another. There can be friendly competition, but at the same time, it’s pretty important to make sure we all stay on the same page.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Part of my role is to make sure every line cook and every front of the house staff member here can fully respect the process of food production. It starts to build a sense of pride in sourcing local and supporting our community.â&#x20AC;?

Photo by Rob Futrell

EdibleNEFlorida.com

FROM THE OVEN

RAW VEGAN MATCHA MINT CHOCOLATE "CHEESECAKE" We know this cheesecake is not from the oven. As consumer demand changes, the food industry is evolving as well, offering more vegan and raw dishes for all courses, including dessert. Serves 4-6 | Recipe Sara True, PlantbasedBaker.com | Photos by Stephanie Keeler

CRUST ¾

cup raw almonds

cup unsweetened coconut flakes

cup pitted Medjool dates,

PEPARATION For the Crust Grease a 6-in x 3-in spring form pan with coconut oil non-stick cooking spray and line bottom with parchment paper. Soak dates in warm water to soften for about 30 minutes. Place almonds and coconut flakes in a food processor and process into a

soaked and drained

crumb-like consistency. Soak and drain the dates, then add to cacao powder and

tablespoons organic cacao powder

maple syrup. Blend until a sticky dough forms. Press mixture into bottom of spring

teaspoons maple syrup

CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKE LAYER ¾

cup raw cashews, soaked and drained cup maple syrup

cup organic cacao powder

tablespoons coconut oil, melted

tablespoon unsweetened vanilla almond milk

1½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoon salt MATCHA MINT CHEESECAKE LAYER 1¼ cups raw cashews, soaked and soaked and drained ¼

cup + 2 tablespoons maple syrup

cup coconut oil, melted

tablespoons unsweetened vanilla almond milk

1 teaspoon matcha powder (2 teaspoons for a deeper green color) 1 teaspoon organic peppermint extract (or more to taste) TOPPINGS Chopped almonds Chopped pistachios Fresh mint leaves Strawberries

form pan and set aside. Clean out the food processor to prepare the next layer. FOR THE CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKE LAYER Soak cashews in warm water for 4-6 hours. Drain and place in food processor with the rest of the chocolate cheesecake ingredients and blend until creamy and smooth. Evenly spread the chocolate mixture over the crust, then tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Place in the freezer to set while making the matcha mint layer, about 20 minutes. Clean out the food processor to prepare the next layer. FOR THE MATCHA MINT CHEESECAKE LAYER Soak cashews in warm water for 4-6 hours. Drain and place in food processor with the rest of the matcha mint cheesecake ingredients and blend until creamy and smooth. If desired, blend in an additional teaspoon of matcha powder and about ¼ teaspoon extra peppermint extract for a deeper green color and bolder flavor. Evenly spread the matcha mint filling over the set chocolate layer, then tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Cover and place in the freezer to set for 4-6 hours, or overnight for best results. Remove cheesecake from spring form pan and allow to thaw at room temperature for about 15 minutes before adding your toppings, slicing and serving! Store in the refrigerator, or freezer for longer keeping (up to two weeks). Note: Melt coconut oil by filling a container with hot water and setting jar in it until the oil melts, about 15 minutes. Allow oil to cool to room temperature before using.

Beyond the Brigade R ED EF I NI NG K I TC H E N C U LT U R E W OR DS J A C K T WA C H T MAN |

hen you sit down for a meal in a nice restaurant, what you experience is part of a meticulous, well-rehearsed dance. Silverware, polished glasses and folded linens set the stage. Servers greet you, pour water and offer you another beverage, before gracefully rejoining an intricate ballet of foodrunners, hosts and bussers. The process is practiced and carefully refined to heighten one's experience of the food being served from the kitchen. Once the server walks away, however, do you ever stop to wonder what's happening simultaneously behind a restaurant's kitchen door? If you’ve read Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, a memoir tell-all of the food service industry or watched any popular series featuring Chef Gordon Ramsay, you may have a portrait of professional kitchens as the dark and dysfunctional underbelly of restaurant life, characterized by drug-abuse, tyranny and military-like order. And while popular portrayals of the industry may be fun to read or watch, they

PH O TO S J ESSE B R AN TMAN

certainly don't reflect the reality of all professional kitchens, especially many of those in our region. On the other hand, some of the story they tell may not be entirely off base. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, restaurant workers have the highest rate of substance abuse disorder, with more food service workers reporting the use of illicit substances than any industry in the country. What's more, studies from the federal Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration in the last decade have revealed that food service employees report some of the highest rates of depression amongst workers aged 18-64. Food service isn't typically a profession that many people perceive as a “high-pressure job.”

There are no diplomatic snafus that might compromise world peace and markets won't crumble if a soufflé goes belly-up. But still, the data persists and begs the question: why has a kitchen career become such a stressful occupation?

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edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

ABOVE: Given the tight quarters in the kitchen, Chef Howard Kirk and his staff unwind outside after a rapid-fire dinner shift.

Sans the obvious need for food handling safety, generally there aren't any life or death decisions being made daily. There are no diplomatic snafus that might compromise world peace and markets won't crumble if a soufflé goes belly-up. But still, the data persists and begs the question: why has a kitchen career become such a stressful occupation? Social media and a relentless stream of public online reviews are one factor contributing to this trend. In the digital age, negative restaurant criticisms can swiftly tarnish the reputation of an establishment, and with more consumers instagramming, tweeting and snap-chatting their experiences than ever before, the demand for perfected performance is ever-looming. Kitchen work is also more physically demanding than most people imagine. It often requires long hours on your feet in tight

there is often an unspoken expectation of mental toughness. If you have a problem, you fix it. If you are struggling, you suck it up. And, historically, this has been the way a kitchen worker finds their “chops,” builds character and earns respect amongst their peers. quarters, the skill to manage potentially dangerous equipment in a fast-paced environment and the flawless ability to work in concert with a team. Additionally, there is often an unspoken expectation of mental toughness. If you have a problem, you fix it. If you are struggling, you suck it up. And, historically, this has been the way a kitchen worker finds their “chops,” builds character and earns respect amongst their peers. If this regimented approach to kitchen life sounds slightly reminiscent of a military-like structure, it's because it is. Around the turn of the 20th century in France, Georges Auguste Escoffier developed a hierarchal system of kitchen management, referred to as Brigade de Cuisine, and for over a century, it's been revered as the gold standard for developing a world-class kitchen team. In French, the word chef literally means chief, and he or she who maintains this role sets the tone for a system of organization that divides tasks according to rank and file. But not every restaurant and chef still feels as though this is

RIGHT: Chef Kirk and team balance the stress of restaurant work by throwing many of the conventions of modern restaurants out the window.

EdibleNEFlorida.com

For Chef Kirk, “fun” in the kitchen means the ability to joke around, taking the work seriously, without taking yourself too seriously, an uncommon ethos in more structured environments. the only way to get business done. In fact, there are many local restaurateurs and chefs in Northeast Florida who are consciously working to make their kitchens a more supportive place to be, despite the fact that they themselves may have cut their teeth in an intensely competitive environment. “When I started, it was ruthless in the kitchen. You had to be able to handle being screamed at. But you can’t talk to employees like that anymore. I like to think my kitchens are less stressful,” says Jamey Evoniuk, Executive Chef at the Candy Apple Café. Having spent years under a brigade-style structure, Evoniuk is determined to do things differently. Instead of pinpointing the pressures of kitchen service on individuals, he focuses on procedures and plans that help keep the action in his kitchen flowing. “So much is out of our control – the volume of customers, the time they all come in to eat, what each person orders - I try to be super-organized,

even if it seems to be chaotic.” Chef Howard Kirk of 13 Gypsies is another advocate for kinder kitchens. When he first opened his small but bustling restaurant on Stockton Street, he intentionally sought to foster a different kind of culture. Having had his fill of the high-pressure world of larger kitchens, Kirk set out to do something different with his own business. “When I opened this place I had every intention of it being a one-man kitchen. I never expected to have any help back there,” he says. “But when I decided I needed help to keep up, I made the choice that I didn’t want to run it brigade style, I wanted it to be fun.” For Chef Kirk, “fun” in the kitchen means the ability to joke around, taking the work seriously, without taking yourself BELOW: Haywood Walker, Jr. listens to hip-hop as a soundtrack during his shift washing dishes at 13 Gypsies.

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ABOVE: When asked if he has any regrets about the lifestyle he has chosen, Chef Kirk pauses then answers "Nah, I love this place and I love the people that love this place."

too seriously, an uncommon ethos in more structured environments. “[In other restaurants] service hours are service hours and you can joke around a little bit, but you really need to keep an ear out for the expo (expediter) and what he’s saying. You better acknowledge the fact that you heard him and you better have your timing right.” At 13 Gypsies, Kirk has thrown many of the conventions of modern restaurants out the window. Dishes are made to order and guests receive them as they are completed. Chefs have their duties and perform them with a dedication to high-quality food. But they also enjoy themselves and work without excessive undue stress. Evoniuk explains, “In restaurants, you take business when you can get it, and sometimes everyone comes all at the same time. To make money, you need the volume because margins are so slim. On top of that, customer expectations are high and people are tough to please. So when someone makes a mistake in the middle of a rush,

they need to be held accountable, but maybe not while everyone is scrambling to fix the error.” At that point, “it’s time to take a deep breath, step back and figure out how to deal with it without shouting or berating someone.” Evoniuk looks for people who can keep up with all the moving parts associated with a typical restaurant shift. Cross-training among his staff helps build the depth of skills necessary while reducing some of the monotony of repetitious work day after day. “The ability to teach the staff is very important, and I want the various stations to know how to make all of the recipes. The staff responds to that,” Evoniuk says. He recognizes the need for flexibility and tries to accommodate staff needs, so they want to come to work each day and perform. “It’s important to be transparent, to make sure everyone knows what is expected of them and there are no gray areas. I want to create a culture where the employees feel like they have ownership and what they say is important.” Still, even in kinder environments where on-the-job structures are being reconfigured during service hours, industry pitfalls remain. Listening to Kirk describe life in the kitchen, one immedi-

“I want to create a culture where the employees feel like they have ownership and what they say is important.”

March/April 2017

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

ately understands how the waters between work and life get muddied, and how food service employees continue to be susceptible to national trends. “That’s the lifestyle - you come in, you bang out service and then as soon as the adrenaline rush is over you start to crash,” Kirk explains. “So, you go out to the bar, start drinking and making fun of everything that happened that day, then you pass out, wake up with a hangover and do it all over again.” Hospitality work is no 9 to 5 job, and many in the industry prefer it that way. Perhaps the conditions for an alternative lifestyle will always exist. What may evolve, however, are the systems that create some of the precursors for industry challenges. Employers will never be able to change what individuals choose to do on their own time, but a shift toward supporting employees in a collaborative environment is a good starting point – a positive move in the direction of work-life balance for all.

Looks can be deceiving. - •p NGk/ n. 1. A style of whimsisteam•punk /stem e

supporting employees in a collaborative environment is a good starting point –- a positive move in the direction of work-life balance for all.

cal design combining historical elements with anachronistic technological features, inspired by science fiction and the industrial age.

Bold Bean Coffee’s head roaster, Kyle Graf, conjuring up the past, and peering into the future

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BACK OF THE HOUSE

Family Meal

T EA M BU I L D I N G IS O N T H E M E N U WO RD S L A U RE N TITU S | PH O TO S LEXI MIR E

estaurant work can be grueling, requiring stamina and energy to withstand hours preparing and serving food to customers. Many restaurants believe a well-fed staff can better provide the hospitality needed for long shifts at a time. Enter the family meal, a long-honored tradition of restaurants all over the world. It gives the staff a chance to take a break from their busy days, sit together and chat over a meal prepared by one of their own. Or perhaps it gives them an opportunity for solitude before the rush of the dinner shift. Dishes offered for family meal are usually different than the food served to customers, but often no less delicious. In most restaurants where family meal is still provided, a different chef from the line is assigned to cook each day. Ingredients may be from the prep list for the eveningâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu or perhaps

"After breaking bread together, the co-workers know they can count on their teammates when they're in the weeds, just like any close family" leftovers that need to be utilized. While the ingredients may be surplus or less-used, the results are far from second-rate. In fact, family meal is often an opportunity for a chef to show off culinary skills and creativity and to allow the team to try out new flavor profiles that may one day appear on the menu. These days, not all restaurants offer family meal, given financial constraints and dietary limitations of many staff members. Some establishments, however, intentionally continue with the tradition to foster a sense of family and comradery. When Burlingame Restaurant in Fernandina Beach was still in its development phase, its three owners, Eric and Deb Fanelli and Chef Chad Livingston, made a conscious decision to institute family meal. “We discussed how we wanted the staff to help out and work as a team. We wanted it to be a family,” says Eric. “So we offered the meal as a way to help enhance that feeling.” The labor-intensive dishes on the menu features homemade pasta, from-scratch stock and vegetables in various forms, so the crew arrives early to prep for the dinner shift. By mid-afternoon the assigned chef has family meal underway, based on the bits and parts available in the kitchen. “Usually it’s something simple, quick

ABOVE: The crew takes advantage of family meal to fuel up in preparation for a long night serving customers at Burlingame Restaurant.

and easy. Oftentimes it’s some of the best food we eat,” says Fanelli. Weather permitting, the crew will congregate at Burlingame’s outdoor seating area to eat. Sitting together before a shift begins, the staff talks about the ingredients or cooking techniques used to prepare the meal, and there is usually some good-natured competition to outdo the previous night’s offering. “They will say how good it is and talk about what the chef did to prepare it,” Fanelli says. “They also have a competitive streak, and may give each other grief, or in a subtle way give compliments. Occasionally we’ll try out something that may go on the menu, like the chicken and dumpling dish that evolved out of a family meal concoction.” Sometimes the crew just wants to use the time to connect with their outside life, or re-charge before the evening rush begins. And that’s okay too, says Fanelli, given the collaboration in the kitchen. After breaking bread together, the co-workers know they can count on their teammates, just like any close family.

"The staff talks about the ingredients or cooking techniques used to prepare the meal, and there is usually some good-natured competition to outdo the previous night’s offering."

EdibleNEFlorida.com

LOCAL LIBATIONS

Drink Like a Bartender

D R I N K M A K E R S A N D T H E I R FAVO R I T E B E V E R A G E S WORDS LOCAL BARTENDERS

hen they aren't working, bartenders love to visit their favorite watering holes. While they spend much of their own shifts shaking, stirring and straining cocktails, when out on the town mixologists sometimes prefer to keep things simple – a beer and a shot, or a glass of wine. Fernet, Amaro and Vieux Carré are popular go-to's. Next time you’re looking for a beverage suggestion, ask your bartender what he or she drinks. You might be surprised by the answer.

S E A N D E A R M A N Black Sheep When I am out, I really enjoy a Bulleit Rye Sazerac. At home I make Uncle Val's Gimlet. These are both classic cocktails, which some bartenders like to give a modern twist, but I prefer them just the way they are.

J O S H S T R I C K L A N D Restaurant Orsay After a long shift behind the bar and closing, a lot of places with cocktail programs aren't open near me. Leaving work at 1:30 doesn't leave a lot of time for you to drive and enjoy a beverage without being a rude guest and overstaying your welcome. That being said, a lot of bartenders I know are generally tired of making or tasting cocktails after a long night and want to unwind with friends over beers and shots (most typically Fernet or Amaro for the Orsay staff ). If I get off early enough, I'll have my shift drink cocktail which is typically a classic (Old Fashioned, Manhattan, Daiquiri) and maybe a shot before I go to my local dive and rejoice with fellow coworkers in the victory of another night accomplished.

S A M A N T H A J O B U S H Dos Gatos Mostly when I'm hanging out, I'm a beer and shot kind of person. But if I'm out to drink cocktails it's usually a Rum Old Fashioned using Marlin and Barrel Amber Rum, in particular. I've been playing around a lot with Marlin and Barrel rum because it's so local (Fernandina Beach) and delicious.

"If I'm going to a friend's bar, I like to order one of their drinks they worked hard to come up with on the menu and support my local bar scene."

B L A I R R E D I N G T O N Grape and Grain When I’m out on the town, I’m typically just a beer and a shot guy. Give me a local lager and a shot of Fernet Branca or Cynar 70, and I’m happy. I’m always looking at the menu though and typically gravitate toward gin or whiskey drinks. I love the classics: Old Fashioned, Vieux Carré, or a clean gin martini. When I’m at home it never gets too fancy. I love some gin on the rocks with a dash of orange bitters. Manifest Gin is my current pour at the house. My girlfriend and I each have our own bottles of Fernet (his & hers); this way we usually never run low. I do love to throw some Daiquiris together or maybe a late-night Vieux Carré. There is also always plenty of Veterans United Raging Blonde in the fridge.

E M I LY E V E R S O N Restaurant Orsay It depends on my mood entirely. I really like ordering a classic Daiquiri - rum, sugar, lime. Simple and to the point. I also like a shot of whiskey and a Vieux Carré if I'm trying to start my night out with a bang. If I'm going to a friend's bar, I like to order one of the drinks they've worked hard to come up with on the menu and support my local creative bar scene.

G A B Y S A U L Rue Saint-Marc This is always the toughest question for me because I have so many answers. If I am staying at home and feel like making a drink it's going to be a Manhattan. I'm a rye whiskey girl. If I don't feel like making a drink, I'm a sucker for a good glass of Spanish red wine. If I am out at a bar (a dive bar, of sorts) and shooting pool, I stick to good old American Budweiser plus a shot of Jack Daniels. Most likely, with my cowboy boots on. If I'm at a cocktail driven bar, I go for anything that sparks my interest. I don't stick to certain spirits. Being in my line of work, I need to try everything, as it helps me keep my palate at the top of its game. I look for something that I haven't seen done before, or if I've seen it, I try the bartender’s take on flavors.

A U D R E Y A N C E L I N Taverna After work, I always like to drink something bubbly (whatever prosecco or brut is the driest) with a shot of Fernet. On a night out, I’ll usually start with a cocktail, then I'll switch to wine and sip on Amoros or Chartreuse. I absolutely love trying different cocktails at new places. It's one of my favorite things to do. That being said, after a long night of work, I typically want something quick and easy on both me and my fellow bartender. Z A C H LY N C H Ice Plant I'm a super easy drinker. I enjoy wine at home and an Old Fashioned or a beer plus a shot when out. Usually I'll gravitate toward Bells Two Hearted Ale if I see it and a shot of Fernet. Or whisky. If it's one item only while out, it's usually wine. Provence Rose is always a go-to. That, or old world reds. Cheers!

New Life for Leftovers REDUCING FOOD WASTE BY COMP OSTING WORDS KATHY AMES CARR PHOTOS LEXI MIRE

hink those extra bits of food you leave on your plate at a restaurant, or those slightly blemished veggies you toss from your fridge don't have an impact on the environment? Think again. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, food waste that goes to landfills breaks down anaerobically and produces methane, which is 21 times more potent than CO2 as a greenhouse gas, and in the U.S., it's becoming a significant ecological problem. Additionally, wasted food is an economic concern. In the restaurant world, reducing food waste is a priority, given its impact on profitability and the bottom line. Yet even those eateries which plan menus based on total utilization (that is, using every part of an ingredient, such as carrots and carrot tops) deal with the reality of food scraps and unused surplus heading to the landfill. Such was the situation Tiffany Bess found when she started work managing a local restaurant in 2014. Having assessed their operations over time, Bess took steps

Tiffany Bess is eager to spread the word about the values of composting kitchen scraps.

EdibleNEFlorida.com

to change their practices and pursued alternative ways to deal with scraps. When initial searches for an organic waste recycler proved futile, Bess launched her own in-house composting initiative. A few years later, her passion propelled her into a full-time business pursuit. As the owner of Apple Rabbit Compost, Bess collects food scraps for a small but growing number of residential and commercial customers, including Sun-Ray Cinema, Southern Roots Filling Station and Community Loaves. Throughout Northeast Florida, efforts to compost and help reduce waste are largely independent initiatives, as there is no policy mandating reduction of food going into landfills — for now. Some advocates say they believe the region shows promise for more widespread progress. “The missed opportunities to divert food from landfills is something to be concerned about,” says Laureen Husband, who is a member of the Duval County Food Policy Council and the Florida Food Policy Council. “The Florida Food Policy Council is looking to identify opportunities for small farms, businesses and individuals like you and I to prevent food from being discarded into a landfill and otherwise use it to replenish the earth to make more healthy food.” Composting is a natural way of recycling organic matter, and often includes grass clippings, coffee grounds and leftover vegetable scraps. The result is a nutrient rich, dark soil amendment with myriad benefits. It promotes soil microbes that aid plant growth, helps balance the soil’s pH level, reduces pests and otherwise fosters

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edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

a more sustainable ecosystem. Husband, who has spent years working in the community health sector in Northeast Florida, says she is not aware of any government-led initiatives to divert food scraps from landfills in any of Northeast Florida’s counties. Joseph England, chair of the policy and issues committee for the Florida Food Policy Council, said many local-level composting efforts operate outside of state regulations. Currently, food is characterized as solid waste by state statute; therefore, anyone transporting food waste — even small composting efforts — is required to be

Composting is a natural way of recycling organic matter...It promotes soil microbes that aid plant growth, helps balance the soil’s pH level, reduces pests and otherwise fosters a more sustainable ecosystem. certified as a solid waste hauler by the state. Even if official changes are made at the state level, Florida still lacks facilities that can process food, either though composting or anaerobic digestion, England said. The lack of infrastructure and widespread public support haven’t deterred many Northeast Florida food-related businesses from cultivating their own ingenuity. LEFT: Composting turns leftover kitchen scraps into a nutrient-rich soil amendment, with microbes that aid plant growth.

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LEFT: An entrepreneurial spirit drove Tiffany Bess to start her own business turning kitchen waste into compost.

“The rich compost is sprinkled into the school’s garden soil mix,” he says. “If we’re creating marmalade and have a lot of citrus, I’ll keep a separate pile to process at my farm for my blueberries. Blueberries love acidic compost.” When food is no longer saleable but still in-date, Native Sun repurposes items into food ingredients in its food service departments (think: a perfectly edible, but slightly blemished, apple) or distributes it to local food banks, says Meghan Fiveash, community relations manager for Native Sun Natural Foods Market. If the food is inedible, but is organic material that is not meat, fat, grease, bones or dairy, staffers place it into a compost pick-up pile for local gardeners to collect. “As the Bold New City, we have the opportunity to find new ways to progress these (composting and food waste) initiatives in our hometown,” Fiveash says. Commissioning the city and local municipalities to put together a short-term plan to integrate education and industrial composting facilities is a logical entry point for advancing these causes, she adds. To help disseminate information about how to recycle food waste, the USDA, EPA and nearly a dozen other public and private partners recently unveiled furtherwithfood.org, a national resource hub that offers ways for cities and counties to share information and best prac-

“We as a region are experiencing a lot of momentum recently with composting & food waste awareness, & it feels good to be helping to build a movement.”

G RAS SROOTS COMP OSTING Shelby Stec of St. Augustine launched her commercial and residential composting business, Dog Day Gardens, after a search for quality, local compost for her nursery turned up short. She partners with a number of neighboring businesses, including Diane’s Natural Market, Moonbooch, The Kookaburra, Old City Brew and The Hyppo Gourmet Ice Pops. “So at The Hyppo, for example, we give them a big 34-gallon trash can, and they fill that a couple times a week,” Stec says. “I comfortably collect a couple hundred pounds of food scraps that otherwise would go into a landfill.” Tim Armstrong maintains an impressive composting initiative at both his Jacksonville farm — Eat Your Yard Jax — and at the North Florida School of Special Education. The school uses a fourbin system to compost micro-greens, wheatgrass and garden scraps. The culinary program’s other food scraps — potato peelings, squash innards and pineapple — are processed through worm composting.

March/April 2017

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

tices on food loss and waste solutions. “Across the nation, cities and states such as Seattle, San Francisco and Massachusetts no longer allow organics, or food, in landfills,” says Elise Golan, the USDA’s director for sustainable development. “A number of local governments are stepping in to start initiatives that help households and businesses throughout the U.S tackle this problem.” In the meantime, local level efforts continue to drive public awareness and support for food composting. During a cool, damp January morning at Riverside Arts Market in downtown Jacksonville, Bess stood beside a couple of stacks of empty five-gallon compost buckets, waiting to exchange them for full ones from her urban customers. “We as a region are experiencing a lot of momentum recently with composting and food waste awareness, and it feels good to be helping to build a movement.”

RECYCLING AT FOOD BUSINES SES WORDS ERIN THURSBY While recycling at home is commonplace, the

this at the restaurant because they have

same services are not always readily avail-

space for the collection bins and a wide

able for commercial customers. As a result,

enough profit margin to pay for the extra ser-

food businesses intending to support recy-

vice. Restaurants don’t get free trash pick-up

cling efforts take extra steps to reduce the

through the city, but must pay for a commer-

amount of waste going to landfills.

cial service to not only take away their regular

One example of a business group taking

trash, but also their recycling. The more recy-

the lead in recycling efforts can be found at

ABOVE: Customers can drop off scraps and pick up compost each week at Riverside Arts Market.

cling they do, the more it costs them.

the Forking Amazing Restaurants (Bistro Aix,

Mannick feels some improvements would

Il Desco and Ovinte). “Recycling is some-

make recycling easier, such as having ven-

thing we are passionate about, and that’s

dors provide sorting bins not just outside, but

why we do it,” says Matt Mannick, president

also for inside the restaurant. Currently res-

of Forking Amazing. But, he says, it’s not as

taurants must provide those themselves. The

easy as it would be for a homeowner here in

best option, which does not really exist for

Jacksonville.

businesses at a low cost, would be the same

Bistro Aix has one of the most extensive

sort of system that’s utilized at home, where

recycling programs in the area. They recycle

all the recycling is placed in one bin. This

cardboard, as many businesses do, along

would cut down on the space, often needed

with paper, glass and aluminum, which is

for parking, and be less labor intensive for

more unusual. They are able to implement

the employees.

2017

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Buy

Local GUIDE

Please make a point of supporting these locally-owned, small businesses in our community.

Grater Goods is located in the heart of Murray Hill and is Jacksonville’s only stand alone cheese and charcuterie shop. We specialize in American made cheeses and cured meats. 1080 Edgewood Ave. S. #9 Jacksonville 904-203-8533

Organic Café serving creative juices, smoothies, acai bowls and healthy bites all made fresh to order. Vegan and gluten free options. Healthy. Fresh. You. 1510 King Street Jacksonville 904-574-3557

From the farm to the table, we deliver fresh local produce and artisanal goods to customers’ homes. Customize each order to suit your taste buds with our simple online ordering. 386-753-4565 frontporchpickings.com

The coolest little college bookstore in America with an emphasis on book and nerd culture. Many eclectic gifts under $20. Weekends 11-5 pm. Weekdays 9-6 pm. 50 Sevilla Street Saint Augustine 904-819-6332 FlaglerCollegeBookstore.com

Real Art | Real Artists An extraordinary outdoor art gallery highlighting the true stars of the show, the artists. A great event with something for everyone! Free! April 8: 10 - 5 pm April 9: 10 - 4 pm Francis Field, St. Augustine oldtownartshow.com

March/April 2017

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

Located on the north side of Jacksonville, Congaree and Penn is a rice farm, a mayhaw orchard and home to a future cidery. 11830 Old Kings Road Jacksonville hello@congareeandpenn.com congareeandpenn.com

Fresh, quality specialty produce farmed in St. Augustine. Delivery to local restaurants from Daytona to Jacksonville available. Call Ben Wells at 904-814-9107 or Megan DeJonge at 863-370-8555 to order. www.benwellsproduce.com St. Augustine

Trasca & Co Eatery is a one-of-akind vintage neighborhood eatery, specializing in hand-crafted Italianinspired sandwiches, craft beer and craft coffee! 155 Tourside Drive, Suite 1500 Ponte Vedra Beach 904-395-3989 trascaandco.com

For this New Year, re-invest in your landscape and refresh the garden with North Florida-friendly citrus varieties, and everything they might possibly need. Organic fertilizers, soil enhancers, alternative pest controls and more! 1690 A1A South St. Augustine 904-471-0440 southernhorticultureflorida.com

Hand-makers of fine ceramics since 1981. The perfect gift for food enthusiasts! Come see us at the Old City Farmers Market at the St. Augustine Amphitheatre on Saturday mornings from 8:30 am - 12:30 pm, Space 68. St. Augustine 904-824-1317 westsidestudio@bellsouth.net

We hand-craft loose leaf teas and culinary spice blends using only the finest organic ingredients. Our blends are locally produced in small batches by passionate artisans. Come see us at the Old City Farmers Market every Saturday. 904-495-8948 cultivateteaandspice.com

Take a grocery store tour with one of our Registered Dietitians and fill your cart with nutritious foods that will fuel your entire family. You’ll learn how to read labels, gather meal ideas, and instill habits to pass on from generation to generation.

We are cultivating passion about Urban Agriculture to create jobs, educate youth, improve public health and empower communities. Together, we hope to inspire communities to grow their own food and see the untapped potential in all of the unused spaces. Through this initiative, we are able to teach children, families, and active older adults – across counties, cultures, and communities – about nutrition, environmental sustainability, diversity, and the importance of a healthy lifestyle.

SEE HOW WE’RE MAKING A DIFFERNCE THROUGH FARMING AND FOOD AT

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LAST BITE

HEARD

K I TC H E N S L A NG

In the fast-paced restaurant world, even the language needs to move quickly. The industry vocabulary is loaded with abbreviations and phrases that make no sense to an outsider. Here’s a list of the common, and not so common, shorthand used in local kitchens.

In the Weeds: You are getting buried by tickets, or are just overwhelmingly busy. Also, one might say they are "weeded." That's a Dead Fry on the Plate: You are getting buried by tickets, or are just overwhelmingly busy. Sharp: I’ve got a knife in my hand.

WIDELY USED SL ANG

SOS: Put the sauce on the side.

86: Probably the most common and universal kitchen slang. When you are out of something, an ingredient, a dish. Also used as a verb, like when someone gets fired or kicked out of the building they are "86ed." Behind: I’m right behind you. Restaurant workers tend to use it in the real world which can be very confusing to people shopping in the aisle at Publix. Heard: You understand and you’re doing what you've been asked without question. Mise or Mise En Place: Ingredients are prepped and ready at your station. Everything's put in its place.

DROP THE

BECKY

On the Fly: When something needs to be done in a super hurry, prioritized, such as if a server forgets to ring in an item, and they need it "on the fly."

March/April 2017

Sexy FRY AT POE'S TAVERN I Need a Sexy Fry: A server needs a pretty order of fries.

Hot Pocket: Clean glasses, put them away.

Watch Your Melt: Don’t burn the nachos! Nice Country: Also used as "it must be nice over there," usually referring to an easy task or a cushy situation. 6 Top, 8 top, etc.: Refers to a table of 6 people, table of 8 people, etc.

AT FLYING IGUANA Girlfriend: A term used for gluten free (GF). If a guest desires a gluten free tortilla for their taco, you say "I need a girlfriend"

run the

AT BL ACK SHEEP Run the Jewels: When you pick up the entire board at once, which can be an uncomfortable amount of tickets.

AT KITCHEN ON SAN MARCO

Go Zone: Something that is ready to sell.

Nuts: It's right in front of you.

AT RESTAUR ANT ORSAY

No Ticket No Taco: Ring it in, the kitchen doesn't make a dish without a ticket.

Drop the Becky: After a rap song. It means fry a duck leg. Burrito: Putting sauce on meatloaf.

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

TASTE WHAT THE FIRST COAST HAS TO OFFER! March 18th 11am-7pm H E M M I N G PA R K

GASTROJAX.ORG

A woman’s health needs are always evolving.

INTRODUCING

4 her :

Wellness resources for women.

In your

30s

In your

40s

Watch the scale, opt in for mammograms, lea rn about diabetes, and discuss perimenopause symptoms with your doctor.

priority, Make sleep a wind, take time to un d pressure oo bl have your keep your checked, and nce with la exercise in ba ke. ta your calorie in

Baptist Health now offers complimentary wellness services for today’s busy woman. Whether you are feeling stressed, want to lose weight, sleep better or just find the right doctor for yourself or your family, our women’s wellness team is here to connect you to the resources that fit your evolving needs. Just contact us at the number or email address below to access our array of wellness services. We can help you schedule a one-on-one health coaching session, a wellness check, sign up for a “talk with a doctor” event at our Baptist Y Healthy Living Centers…and more.

In your

50s

In your

Get a bone density test, increase your B-12 intake, ask about the shingles vaccine, and stay active — physically and socially.

Be vigilant about your heart health, see your primary care physician regularly, get screened for colon cancer, and keep moving.

In your 70s

H E A L M E N T A L H 1.

ell balanced,

Call 904.202.4 her (4437) Weekdays between 8 am and 4:30 pm or email 4her@bmcjax.com anytime

Eat a w ur skin diet, keep yo and ht ig looking br e strength, cl us maintain m bladder. including your

60s

In your

80s

Stay sharp and healthy through regular menta l stimulation, social interaction and physical activity.

To learn more, drop in our new 4her Healthy Living Center for Women at the new Winston YMCA on Riverside Avenue! © Baptist Health 2017