The Lost Skills Issue

ISSUE THIRTEEN | September / October 2017

Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season

LOST

Skills

Member of Edible Communities

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Photo by Muriel Silva

Contents

DEPARTMENTS 8

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

10 CONTRIBUTORS 13 EDIBLE TABLE What’s in Season 18 SEASONAL PLATE Pickled Vegetables Tomato Chutney 26 EDIBLE INNOVATORS The Science of Successful Preserves 31 A THIRST FOR DEHYDRATING Just Remove Water 34 HARVEST DIARIES Pears 36 EDIBLE DIY Sauerkraut

FEATURES 45 GROWING THE GOOD LIFE Saving Seeds

14 PRESERVE OR PERISH Saving Food for a Rainy Day

46 LOCAL LIBATIONS Ginger Beer Fermented Pineapple Cocktails The History (and Truth) of the IPA

22 BRING ON DA FUNK Fermented and Pickled Ingredients Star on Local Menus

52 EDIBLE INGREDIENT Preserved Lemons

40 RECLAIM THE TERRAIN Gardening is Good for You

57 CONSERVING FARMLAND Support Local Farmers

62 PRESERVING A SENSE OF COMMUNITY Andrew’s Homestead

58 FROM THE OVEN Saving Recipes, Saving Traditions 64 LOST SKILLS WORKSHOPS Hands-On Lessons in Self-Sufficiency 66 LAST BITE Salt-Cured Egg Yolks

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

How you interact with food is not simply cooking and eating, but rather conducting your life with intention, diligence and a thriftiness that comes from respect.

PUBLISHER Amy Robb amy@edibleneflorida.com EDITOR Lauren Titus lauren@edibleneflorida.com

– Francis Lam

COPY EDITOR Zach Sweat

A couple of summers ago, my friend Angie mentioned the abundance of figs from the tree in her yard. She had already harvested several quarts of the fruit, with more becoming ripe over the next few weeks, and was quickly running out of room in her freezer. Even though I had never made jam or jelly before, I offered to take the fruit and turn it into preserves for both of us. Once she agreed, I turned to my mother-in-law for a recipe. She had been making fig preserves since her early married life in rural Alabama, and the sight of those jars on the breakfast table was always a welcome start to the day. Bibba, as my husband’s mother is known, happily passed along her recipe, with tips and tricks from over 70 years of fig seasons. My first batch was a success, and now I eagerly await the heat of the summer to bring forth those tasty orbs destined for the Mason jars.

Preserving all types of food was common knowledge up until just a few generations ago. Daily life now requires an entirely different set of skills to get by, and we no longer need to know how to can, cure meat or grow our food to survive. We may not need to know, but there is a growing interest in rediscovering these lost skills and incorporating them into modern society.

That desire to preserve those basic human skills, and the resulting food products, is the focus of this issue. We explore how canning, pickling and other methods of preservation allow us to time travel with food, eating locally sourced ingredients long after seasons have passed. Read how area restaurants add traditional fermented foods to their menus with delicious results. Ready to step into the kitchen and try your hand at some of these lost skills? You will find step-by-step instructions on how to dehydrate, ferment and pickle at home. You can also hear about the good news on the home gardening front, as more of us are eager to get our hands dirty to grow our own food.

By relearning these skills, perhaps we will become a little less dependent on technology, allowing us a different way to interact with the world. How are you preserving our local food culture? We love hearing your feedback, so be sure to tag us on social media @edibleneflorida.

ART DIRECTOR Wesley Parsons / Bold Brands PHOTOGRAPHY Jesse Brantman, Sean Kelly Conway, Elise Crigar, Stefanie Keeler, Lexi Mire Amy Robb, Muriel Silva CONTRIBUTORS Karen Ambrosio, Courtney Babcock, Lyndsay Burginger, Cesar E. Diaz, Carrie Zarka Dooley, Trey Hartinger, Leslie Kaplan, Miya Kusumoto, Brian Lapinski, Christina Longo, Tom McDonough, Lauren Murphy, Katie Nail, Katie Parker, Mariah Salvat, Zach Sweat, Jack Twachtman SALES MANAGER Chris Griffith SALES Kassie Ashburn, Kimmy Cottin, Jonar Delmundo, Mikey Sasser, Sara Shapiro sales@edibleneflorida.com SUBSCRIBE Edible Northeast Florida is published 6 times per year by Edible North Florida, LLC. Subscriptions are $28 and available at edibleneflorida.com.

FIND US ONLINE edibleneflorida.com facebook.com/edibleneflorida instagram.com/edibleneflorida twitter.com/edibleneflorida pinterest.com/edibleneflorida CONTACT US Have a story you'd like to see featured in Edible Northeast Florida? Send us your ideas! editor@edibleneflorida.com Edible Northeast Florida 102 6th Ave. N. Suite 10 Jacksonville Beach FL, 32250 p. 904-395-5628 No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions.

If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

Thank you. ©2017 Edible North Florida, LLC. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER: Mariah Salvat of Southern Roots Filling Station Photo by Muriel Silva

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Edible Communities Publications of the Year 2011

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

day trippin’

V E S S E L S A N DW I C H C O

F L AG L E R B E AC H F I S H C O

ISLAND GRILLE

SWILLERBEE’S CRAFT DONUTS

Taking the scenic route is not a choice but a must as you drive South on A1A towards the small, charming seaside town of Flagler Beach. Here, you won’t find any high-rises so be prepared for miles of unobstructed views of the Atlantic Ocean. In some ways it’s a step back in time to Old Florida where parking is free, pets are welcome, and all the restaurants and shops are locally owned.

So plan on taking a day or two to truly immerse yourself into an area that is vastly undisturbed and where Mother Nature is the main attraction.

Only 30 miles South of St. Augusine visitflagler.com 866-736-9291

F O C C AC I A

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS Karen Ambrosio Karen holds a Bachelor's Degree in Nutrition, a Master's Degree in Clinical Nutrition, and Certifications in Oncology Nutrition and Enteral Nutrition. She was the manager of the Nutrition Service in a hospital specializing in oncology in Mexico before moving to Jacksonville, Florida, to work as an Oncology Wellness Specialist at Ackerman Cancer Center. In her free time she enjoys speaking at conferences and workshops and runs a nutrition and wellness blog for her patients at Ackerman Cancer Center.

Courtney Babcock Courtney has lived in Jacksonville while attending the University of North Florida double majoring in journalism and graphic design. Coming from a small town, she places a lot of value in supporting local artisans and being involved in the community. She loves visiting art and farmer’s markets to see what’s new and exploring the city of Jacksonville admiring street art and finding hole in the wall places to eat.

Jesse Brantman Jesse is an editorial and lifestyle photographer based in Jacksonville. He is also one half of the wedding photography duo, Jesse and Lexi Wedding Co. Lyndsay Burginger Lyndsay is a freelance food blogger residing in Palm Coast, Florida. She is a recent grad from The University of Central Florida where she earned her Bachelor’s Degree in Creative Writing. Lyndsay currently writes for her international food-based blog, Lyndsay’s Travel Kitchen. When she’s not writing or cooking, Lyndsay enjoys traveling the world with her family.

Sean Kelly Conway Flagler grad and St. Augustine native, Kelly spent several years honing his documentary and street photography skills while working and traveling around Asia, before getting cozy in his home town (although the horizons still beckon). When not bothering shrimpers, Kelly can be found digging through anthropological field recordings, chasing surf, photographing motel signage and giving historic photo tours in downtown St. Augustine.

Elise Crigar When not shooting photos as staff photographer for Void magazine, Elise is a skateboarder and multi-media artist. She recently acted as designer for It’s Not About Pretty: A Book About Radical Skater Girls.

Cesar E. Diaz Cesar, the owner and bartender at Odd Birds and Milagro on 12 in St. Augustine, is an active member of the US Bartenders Guild. When not at work, Cesar spends time with his three daughters.

Carrie Zarka Dooley Carrie is the founder of Shakti Life Kitchen, an all organic, raw -vegan food company.

She has been successfully serving healing foods to the community for the past 9 years, and is passionate about the wisdom that the plant world carries and how enjoying a raw vegan diet can connect us back to heart of of the Earth. Carrie home schools her 8 year old daughter, Zophia, who continually inspires her to cultivate community through healing food.

Trey Hartinger A professional chef, Trey is the sales manager at Congaree and Penn Farm and Mills, who also does recipe research and development. Previously Trey had been at Marker 32 here in Jacksonville and The Restaurant at The Pearl Hotel and Stingaree in San Diego.

Leslie Kaplan Folklorist, college professor, Slow Food First Coast board member, PTA volunteer and mom of 3, Leslie has been thinking and teaching about food, culture and community for more than a decade. She is active in the local food community and has introduced more young people to sorrel, persimmon, loquats and other local delicacies than she can count.

Stefanie Keeler Born and raised in Miami Beach, Florida, Stefanie is a graduate of Jacksonville University, with a BFA majoring in photography. In between shooting weddings and eating locally, she is a self-taught fiber artist and loves exploring Jacksonville.

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Miya Kusumoto A lover of culinary adventures and, of course, avocadoes, Miya is a local food blogger who works full time in technology. Her Southwestern upbringing kindled an appreciation for freshly roasted hatch green chilies, and working full time sparked a love affair with the versatile and quick-to-cook egg. She remains passionate and curious about Jacksonville’s local food and drink scene Brian Lapinski Brian Lapinski is the owner/operator of Down to Earth Farm in Jacksonville. He shares life with Kristin, his beautiful wife of 17 years and his two intelligent and joyful daughters, Olivia and Abigail, who like their dad's farm ok, as long as he grows strawberries and sorrel.

Christina Longo Christina has spent the past two decades honing her culinary and baking skills in hotel and restaurant kitchens from the Pacific Northwest to a patisserie just west of Paris, with stops in New York and Tokyo for good measure. Christina is currently Pastry Chef at Taverna San Marco, where she specializes in crafting house made gelato and Italian-inflected pastries for the dessert and brunch menus. Find her on Instagram @stelladolci30 Tom McDonough Chef Tommy, a 20-year kitchen veteran, relocated from Philadelphia to the First Coast and opened Flavor Palette, a high quality international sandwich shop in early 2016. His varied past experiences range from being a personal/private chef to a corporate executive chef overseeing restaurants and off premise catering operations to running hotel kitchens.

Lauren Murphy As Event Coordinator and Hospitality Manager for the St Augustine Amphitheatre, Lauren oversaw the backstage experience for the artists, including the Mumford & Sons "Gentlemen of the Road" Stopover and the "Celebrate 450" downtown events.

Lauren also co-created the Lost Skills Workshop Series at the Amphitheatre.

Katie Nail Katie put her writing career on hold in 2008, when she moved to Scotland, and pursued her dream of becoming a professional chef. Working in some of Glasgow's finest restaurants for the next five years, she solidified her passion for food and learned her way around a cutting board. Katie spends her days working as a copywriter and social media manager in Jacksonville and her nights dreaming up delicious recipes and trying to get her young son to eat something other than chicken nuggets.

Katie Parker Katie encourages people to trust their voice and tell their story. She adores libraries, Italian desserts and optimists.

Mariah Salvat Mariah is an herbalist by training and chef by trade. She is passionate about providing her community with healthy, local, organic food. She and her husband, JP are the heart and soul of their cafe, Southern Roots Filling Station in Riverside.

Muriel Silva Muriel is a professional lifestyle and commercial photographer recently relocated from the DC area. A lover of all things coastal and passionate about food and people, she is really enjoying exploring the area and connecting with this wonderful community. You can visit her website to browse through her work or to connect with her.

Zach Sweat Zach is the editor-in-chief over at Void Magazine and freelances for several companies as a copy editor and writer. Outside work, you can find him frequenting craft breweries, silently judging people at concerts, enjoying the local foodie scene, avoiding sporting events and cruising around the 904 in his red VW bus with his fiance and dogs.

Jack Twachtman Jack is the owner and general manager of BREW Five Points and has been an instrumental part of such Northeast Florida institutions as Burro Bar, Burro Bags and One Spark. His passions are specialty coffee and craft beer but he spends all his free time in the kitchen fermenting and preserving whatever he can get his hands on.

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SAINT AU G USTINE Eat. Drink. Shop. Explore. #ediblestaug

Spanish Inspired, Locally-Rooted Cuisine 25 Cuna Street in Downtown St. Augustine 904.810.2400 | michaelstastingroom.com

Food. Coffee. Wine.

Monday- Saturday, 8 am - 6 pm | 904-342-7617 73 San Marco Avenue | St. Augustine

134 Sea Grove Main Street, St. Augustine Beach | 904.429.9647Â www.TerraAcquaRestaurant.com

115 La Quinta Place, St. Augustine Open Daily from 9 am to 6 pm 904.429.3070 | www.rypeandreadi.com

Craft Cocktails & Odd Bites 33 Charlotte St., St. Augustine, FL 32084 www.oddbirdsbar.com 904-679-4933

410 Anastasia Boulevard, St. Augustine 904.826.4040 www.mellowmushroom.com

EDIBLE TABLE

Photo by Amy Robb

What's in Season?

Here’s a list of the produce and seafood you can expect to find at your local farmers’ market and on local menus in the coming months. Don’t hesitate to ask where your food is grown and sourced.

PRODUCE

Marjoram

Pomegranates

SEAFOOD

Avocados

Mint

Pumpkin (Seminole)

Groupers

Basil

Muscadine Grapes

Radishes

Shrimp

Beans

Mushrooms

Roselle Hibiscus

Snook

Blackberries

Mustard Greens

Rosemary

Black Sea Bass

Bok Choy

Napa Cabbage

Shiso

Vermilion Snapper

Callaloo

Nectarines

Squash

Greater Amberjack

Chestnuts

Okinawa and Malabar Spinach

Sweet Potatoes

Red Porgy

Chives

Okra

Thyme

Mackerel

Collard Greens

Oregano

Tomatoes

Mahi

Cucumbers

Painted Corn

Turnips

Tilefish

Daikon Radish

Papalo

Watermelon

Eggplant

Parsley

Wahoo

Field Peas

Pears

Sheepshead

Garlic Chives

Peas (Southern)

Grapefruit

Pecans

Hot Peppers

Peppers

Japanese Eggplant

Persimmons

Gray Triggerfish

Information provided by Florida Department of Agriculture, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, South Atlantic Fishery Management Council and other sources.

Photo by Amy Robb EdibleNEFlorida.com

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preserve perish S AV I N G F O O D F O R A R A I N Y DAY WORDS LESLIE KAPLAN | PHOTO WESLEY PARSONS

T

here was a time when our food came from our yards, our farms or our neighbors — all food was local food. But it was very hard work, and it came in cycles of boom and bust. One month you were drowning in vegetables, the next you’d kill for something green on your plate. There are good reasons to want to break the grip of seasonality. Eating a diversity of food year-round is healthier and tastier. But many people are trying to eat more local and less commercially processed food. How do we resolve this?

In the 21st century, there are many ways to even out boom and bust. Jet travel and refrigeration, for instance, allow us to share the bounty from the equator and the opposite hemisphere. For example, Mexican blackberries and Chilean peaches give us sweetness in the winter. For those looking to eat more locally though, preservation beats transportation. By preserving local foods, we can move the food from one season to another without a truck.

Preservation allows our food to travel in time (making it last beyond its season) rather than in space (shipping it from wherever it is in-season). Preservation is a way to increase the diversity of foods we eat while preventing it from being wasted or lost. Food, by its nature, begins to spoil the moment it is harvested, so being able to prolong its shelf life has been critical to human survival.

Not only does preservation save perishable food, the methods used also create new foods and different flavors. Communities would dry, ferment and can the ingredients available in their region, thus creating their foodways and their cultures. In fact, the word “culture” itself pertains not only to the customs of a particular nation, people or other social group, but also to fermented foods — foods that have been modified to enhance the nutrient content and extend shelf life.

Bacteria causing food rot is a concern when saving food. There are dozens of ways to control bacteria and preserve food. For instance, change the temperature. Heating foods kills bacteria and cooling foods slows bacteria’s growth, so both your stove and your refrigerator (and especially your freezer) are tools you already use regularly to preserve food. In the past, people used root cellars and ice boxes to

cool food. “Cured” meats like ham, bacon, sausage and jerkies are preserved by smoking, salting, drying or dehydrating to remove water and add chemicals that inhibit bacterial growth.

Some very common foods have their origins as preservation methods. Cheesemaking was used as a way to store milk for months or even years, but we don’t think of it as a way of storing milk, we think of it as its own food group. Pickling uses vinegar to increase acidity. Sugar is a preservative and it is commonly used to make jams, jellies and other fruit preserves. They are great with peanut butter, but well before that, this allowed us to have fruit in the winter.

"Not only does preservation save perishable food, the methods used also create new foods and different flavors.

Communities would dry, ferment and can the ingredients available in their region, thus creating their foodways and their cultures."

Excluding air from easily contaminated foods by adding a layer of jelly on the top of a jar can preserve foods for reasonable periods.

This method is used in paté, aspic and potted meats. Many cultures preserve meats longer by enclosing in some kind of dough then cooking them. English pasties, Chinese buns, Eastern European pierogis, Jewish kreplach, South American empanadas and Indian samosas are all examples of this method, which also seals out air for awhile.

Burying is another way to reduce oxygen and has been used for Asian century eggs, cabbage and kimchi.

Canning, a process using heat sterilization to kill bacteria and

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"The increased interest in home canning has demonstrated to many that food can be preserved without all the additives — you can have convenience and also eat healthy, local food!" sealed containers of either glass or tin (now aluminum) to store them germ-free, began as a military innovation for transporting food to Napoleon’s troops in the first decade of the 19th century. By the beginning of the 20th century, the process made its way into the rural home kitchen. Widespread home canning took off during World War II as a way to reduce the demand for commercial canned goods so more food could be diverted to the military.

Once the war was over, home cooks embraced more modern ways of cooking and sought the convenience of canned and processed foods sold in grocery stores. Companies such as Campbell’s and Kraft offered an alternative to preserving food at home. Over the years, however, serious questions about the nutritional value of processed foods have been raised, given the artificial ingredients used to prolong shelf life. The long list of preservatives includes MSG (monosodium glutamate), artificial sweeteners, partially hydrogenated oils, refined sugar and many, many questionable ingredients. Besides the potential health hazard, are they really necessary?

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The increased interest in home canning has demonstrated to many that food can be preserved without all the additives — you can have convenience and also eat healthy, local food! Grocery, hardware and even big box stores regularly carry canning supplies, reflecting the desire to “put up” the bounty of home gardens and farmers’ markets.

My favorite way to capture the local flavor of North Florida is to make jam. I love getting locally grown strawberries or peaches at the farmers’ market when they are cheap and at their most delicious, then inviting my daughter or my friends to help me turn them into preserves. It takes me a couple of hours to make a couple dozen jars, and my friends and I talk and laugh while doing something productive with our hands. It takes only a little know-how to make it safely at home. It is also a way to share some of the unique flavors that grow so well in North Florida — blueberry, blackberry, feijoa (pineapple guava), fig, loquat, persimmon, calamondin and kumquat all make unique flavors of delicious jam.

Pickling is even easier than making jam. Home picklers use vinegar, which is a very fast and safe way to make your own pickles, but Shai Tzabari, owner of the local business Olive My Pickle makes fermented pickles instead, using saltwater brine. These are known as oldworld, Kosher-style pickles. The process of fermentation leads to naturally occurring live cultures and probiotics. Almost any vegetable can be pickled, allowing fresh, local produce to last for months and to supply variety and new tastes to a family’s out-of-season diet. Even those who don’t like okra may love it tangy and crispy as a pickled vegetable.

Ready to take the plunge into food preservation? One of Jacksonville’s best-kept foodie secrets is the city cannery — a public canning center built in 1978, hidden downtown at Commonwealth and McDuff. Whether you are making jam, tomato sauce or even meat, the canning center stocks everything you need, including industrial gas stoves, giant pots and a machine that uses a conveyor belt system to quickly fill and seal aluminum cans. Master gardeners guide you through the process to make your food tasty and safe. This incredible resource is available for personal or nonprofit use to all Duval County citizens for a nominal fee. Details can be found at http://duval.ifas.ufl. edu/canning_center.shtml.

We haven’t even touched on the huge variety of industrial preservation methods like bags of lettuce with less oxygen and more carbon dioxide in them, irradiated meat, food additives, vacuum packing … all of these use one method or another to make the atmosphere in which the food is stored less hospitable to bacterial growth. But myself, I prefer the time-honored methods I can do in my own home with ingredients and processes I understand, like jam, pickles, beer, cheese and dried herbs. My food time-shifts rather than place-shifts, so I can enjoy a great diversity of food all year long and still keep eating locally.

CAFÉ | CATERING | GOURMET GIFTS

AWARD-WINNING CHEF | DOWN-HOME SOUTHERN EATS

503A Centre Street | (904) 277-9779 | thepicnicbasketamelia.com Tuesday - Saturday 11:00 am to 5:00 pm, Sunday 10:00 am to 4:00 pm

510 South 8th Street, Fernandina Beach www.undergroundkitchen.co | (904) 310-6374

VISIT

Fernandina Beach

FRESH | SEASONAL | MADE-FROM-SCRATCH 20 South 5th Street | (904) 432-7671 burlingamerestaurant.com/reservations Dinner Tues. - Sun. starting at 5:30

ECLECTIC CUISINE | AFFORDABLE GOURMET 27 N 3rd Street | (904) 277-5269 | www.cafekaribo.com Mon 11-3 | Tues-Thurs 11-9, Fri-Sat 11-9:30 | Sunday Brunch 10:30-3

PL AN A QUICK GE TAWAY TO N O RTHE A ST FLO RIDA’ S HISTO RIC AMEL IA ISL AND

SEASONAL PLATE

PICKLED VEGETABLES

PICKLING FOR THE MODERN AGE WORDS AND RECIPE JACK TWACHTMAN | PHOTOS JESSE BRANTMAN When I first began pickling, I went a little overboard. I’d spend entire days processing my latest farmers’ market haul only to end up with a pantry stocked with more Mason jars than I could handle. The idea, of course, being that if I’m going to go through all the trouble of canning my favorite vegetables, I might as well only have to do it once.

Nowadays, I lean on the power and convenience of modern refrigeration to aide my preservation pursuits, making my pickles on the fly when I need a tangy snack or condiment to brighten up a dish.

I start with an all-purpose brine that keeps in the refrigerator indefinitely. Then, I’ll take whatever garden produce I’ve managed not to kill or happens to be in season at the farmers’ market, stuff it in a jar, top it off with the brine and voila! Delicious pickled veggies in a fraction of the time, ready for your next gathering.

Sure, these pickles won’t stay preserved forever on the shelf like their traditionally canned cousins, but I’ve always found that pickles taste better in my mouth than they do in a jar anyway.

BASIC ALL-PURPOSE REFRIGERATOR PICKLE BRINE It’s nearly impossible to mess these up, so don’t be afraid to play around by adding a garlic clove, dried chile, a few sprigs of herbs and/or a pinch of spices to suit your tastes. I like to use rice vinegar as a neutral base, but feel free to experiment with different flavored vinegars in place of

PREPARATION Combine ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring just to a boil, stirring to combine.

Remove from heat. Trim, slice or chop vegetables into desired shape and pack into a clean jar with a lid. Add any spices or flavoring elements* to the jar and cover with the brine. Allow to cool and refrigerate at least overnight. Pickles should be fine in the refrigerator for up to two months. Store any leftover brine in the refrigerator.

the white wine vinegar.

SUGGESTED COMBINATIONS INGREDIENTS

• Cucumbers, sliced, with bay leaf and allspice or dill and peppercorn

3 cups water

• Daikon radish, sliced, with garlic, turmeric, bay leaf and peppercorn

1 cup rice vinegar

• Hot peppers, whole, or sliced with garlic and a couple sprigs of thyme • Muscadine grapes, halved, with cinnamon, coriander and peppercorn

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• Okra, whole, with dried chili pepper, fresh sliced jalapeno, garlic and mustard seed

½ cup + 2 tablespoons sugar

• Summer squash, cut into ribbons, with garlic, dried chili pepper and a sprig of

3 tablespoons kosher salt

rosemary • Watermelon rind, peeled, with cinnamon, clove and allspice

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SEASONAL PLATE

AROUND THE WORLD IN A JAR WORDS AND RECIPE KATIE NAIL | PHOTOS MURIEL SILVA

When I lived in the UK, one of the most frequent questions I’d hear when visiting America was “What do you eat over there?” It seems that even after the Fat Duck, Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay, people are still under the impression that all British food is terrible. While there are some dishes that live up to the reputation (tripe and rice pudding instantly come to mind), overall, the food is wonderful. In addition to their traditional pub food, the Brits spent hundreds of years traveling the globe and sending home their findings. One dish that successfully made it across the ocean and into every refrigerator in the UK is chutney.

Part condiment, part pickle, chutney is a traditional Indian dish that is made from a variety of ingredients that include fruit or nuts. It’s often served as an addition to meals and is like a savory jam. When it made its way to the UK after the colonization of India, it became a way to preserve an abundance of summer fruits and vegetables and turn the most boring, cold meat into something exciting.

Chutney quickly became commonly used in kitchens across the country where the landed gentry could have it during their shooting lunches and the laborers with their cheese sandwiches, a sort of equalizing condiment. In fact the “Ploughman’s’” lunch is wedges of cheese with a currant chutney served in pubs today but probably a far cry from what you’d find in India.

The first time I had this tomato chutney, I was living in Scotland and a good friend from Wales came over for dinner. He said this recipe had been passed down from relative to relative starting with his great-uncle who had lived in India during the British Raj. Every year, his mother preserves summer tomatoes by making large batches of this chutney.

My friend brought a jar over as a gift, and I had to stop myself from eating it all in one sitting that night. For me, there is something about the combination of sweet ripened tomatoes and tangy green apples that pairs perfectly with hot or cold meats and hard, sharp cheeses. I was hooked after my first bite.

Make this version when tomatoes are ripe and abundant. If you don’t have a lot of time, you can whip up a small batch that will last a couple of weeks, or spend the day making enough to last the winter. I always think I’ve put up enough for myself and to share with friends, but I find the last jar comes too quickly.

When I make it, I think about how far this recipe has traveled. How it started in a place I dream about visiting, was revised in a dozen British kitchens and then found its way to me, a displaced American. It is a recipe that spans three continents, preserving the flavors of a season but also our collected histories for the generations of chefs to come.

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TOMATO CHUTNEY I doubled this recipe and got 10 jam jars worth of chutney. I’d recommend making a small batch first to get a feel for the recipe before making a larger canning batch.

INGREDIENTS 1 pound onions

1 tablespoon paprika

1 pound ripe tomatoes

1 tablespoon mustard

1 pound cooking apples*

1 tablespoon salt

1 green pepper (I used

½ teaspoon allspice

a jalapeno to give this a little extra kick!)

6 ounces tomato puree

½ teaspoon ground cloves

12 ounces granulated sugar 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper 1 cup distilled malt vinegar

PREPARATION Peel and deseed the tomatoes. To do this cut a small X along the skin on the bottom of each tomato. Bring a pot of water to boil and then dip the tomatoes in for 30 seconds.

Drain the water, then place the tomatoes in a glass bowl covered with cling film for 5 minutes. Remove the tomatoes and peel the skin off. Cut the tomatoes in quarters, then use a spoon to remove the seeds. Once the skin and seeds are removed, dice the tomato into small squares.

Remove the seeds from pepper and dice to match the size of the tomato. Peel the apples and chop to match. Skin and chop the onions very finely.

Add all the above ingredients to a large pot and simmer in vinegar until thick and tender.

Add all the other ingredients and boil for about 15 minutes or until the chutney is reduced to a thick, sticky texture. Fill jars while warm, leaving a half inch space at the top.

Hot Bath Process: Heat home canning jars in hot water, not boiling, until ready for use.

Once jars are filled, cover with lids and bands, then adjust until fit is fingertip tight. Place the jars in a water bath making sure that the water covers each of the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Cover the pot, bring water to a boil and let jars sit in boiling water for 10 minutes.

Remove the jars and place them on a dishtowel to cool. *In the UK these are large sour Bramley apples. I found something similar at the farmers’ market. If you can’t find any sour varieties, green apples will work as a substitute.

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bring da funk FERMENTED AND PICKLED INGREDIENTS STAR ON LOCAL MENUS WORDS MIYA KUSUMOTO | PHOTOS ELISE CRIGAR AND AMY ROBB Ancient food preparation techniques such as fermentation and pickling are finding their way to local eateries as unique ingredients in menu items and traditional side dishes. The appeal of fermented foods, considered to be a healthy option with probiotic benefits, also reflects a renewed interest in local, handcrafted foods and a desire to try new and exotic flavors.

Here’s a sampling of local restaurants offering unusual twists on fermented and pickled foods.

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South kitchen & Spirits big Superfood Salad

INGREDIENT Tempeh BRIAN SIEBENSCHUH

Fermented soybean cakes can often taste bland or onedimensional. South’s tempeh is the opposite. Extraordinarily subtle yet layered with complexity, the texture and flavor of the tempeh in the Big Superfood Salad lends itself to the crunchy kale and Napa cabbage. It also pairs well with the sourness of the pickled edamame and the nuttiness of the sunflower seeds.

Chargrilled then vacuum packed, a reverse marinade process is created, allowing the marinade to penetrate and infuse its flavors within the tempeh. The tempeh is then cooked sous vide to ensure precise and consistent flavor and texture. The result is a flavorful, savory tempeh that contrasts well with the salad’s accompanying vegetables.

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riverside liquors

Chomp Chomp

deviled egg flight

banh mi

INGREDIENT

INGREDIENT

Tequila Pickled Deviled Egg

Pickled Veggies

VICTOR JOUDI

MARK LYNN

A traditional deviled egg with its rich, creamy filling juxtaposed with the simple egg white, allows the egg yolk to take on the flavor profiles of the spices and herbs while the white acts simply as a vessel to transport this savory blend to your mouth. The Deviled Egg flight pairs a variety of tastes and textures, each slightly different from the next. The Tequila Pickled Deviled Egg is a standout, with the distinctive tang of a pickle. When paired with the rich yolk, it’s a perfectly balanced bite. Subtly sour, the egg white doesn’t just provide a textural diversification, it also offers an unexpected flavor, surprising taste buds as it inverts the traditional deviled egg structure.

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This dish is the archetype of a perfect Banh Mi, with an ideal combination of salty, fatty and acidic elements — a crunchy baguette that fractures when you bite into it, raw cucumbers and cilantro to balance the sandwich’s spiciness and an overflowing blend of pickled daikon, carrot and green chili peppers that stand up to the strong flavors of the juicy pork. The house-made pickled vegetables are Asian-style, preserved in rice wine vinegar. A unique pickling process is used to heighten the flavors of the finished product. The vinegar is first brought to a boil, cooled and then added to the vegetables with various spices, including coriander, anise and cumin. The sourness and bite of the pickles become a complete unit with the starchy white bread and the salty, spicy pork.

timwah dim Sum

wicked barley brewing Company

dim Sum

pork belly sandwich

INGREDIENT

INGREDIENT

Douchi (Fermented Black Soybeans)

Kimchi

GOURONG FAN

BRAD SUEFLOHN

From the dried shiitakes and sausage in the steamed rice to the fermented black beans traditionally served with Dim Sum-style chicken feet, preserved ingredients are a cornerstone in the preparation of Chinese cuisine. Dim Sum without the preserved ingredients is like pasta without the parmesan cheese — the absence of these relatively understated flavors is quickly noticed. In Dim Sum, a level of complexity and flavor would be lost without the dried, fermented and pickled additions to the dishes. Douchi, or fermented and salted black soybeans, are typically used to create black bean sauces ordinarily found in Cantonese cooking. The chicken feet at Timwah were inexplicably more delicious with the addition of the salty black beans. The douchi added brightness to the dish and intensified the flavor of other more subtle ingredients.

Every culture has its pickles, and in Korean cuisine, it’s kimchi.

Kimchi pairs spicy and acidic flavor profiles, creating a distinctive funkiness almost always present in kimchi. While that distinctive funk is commonplace, the preparation method varies and greatly impacts the overall composition. The house-made kimchi on the pork belly sandwich is full-flavored and balances the salty pork belly, the crunchy jalapenos and the fluffy white bread. The lightness and acidity added by the kimchi immediately stifle any inkling of taste fatigue. Wicked Barley’s kimchi is unique in that raw vegetables are mixed with fermented chili paste. The acid in the fermented paste keeps the vegetables crunchy and adds seasoning right from the start of the fermentation process.

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the Science c Successful preserves WORDS TREY HARTINGER | PHOTOS STEFANIE KEELER

"What is proving to be the most challenging part of producing jellies and jams is understanding the why that leads to consistent results.�

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s a chef, I have experimented with a wide variety of cooking techniques. Recently, as part of my job, I have been learning how to preserve fruit to produce jellies and jams, those deceptively simple spreads you use on your morning toast. I say deceptive because the dynamics involved with the process of commercially producing jelly, as I am discovering, are far more critical than any other facet of cooking I have experienced.

The reason is simple. Making a jelly or jam isn’t all about the preservation of the fruit. The steps are mostly simple and are very similar to putting up pickles — jar sterilization, cooking the filling, proper jar sealing and post-fill processing. What is proving to be the most challenging part of producing jellies and jams is understanding the why that leads to consistent results.

To have a fair chance of understanding how to make jelly, one must possess a few useful tools. The first is a refractometer, used to measure the amount of soluble solids in a solution. In the case of jams and jellies, this refers to sugar. The refractometer reads the results in Brix percentage, the unit of measure attached to melted (or solid) sugar in a liquid. For regular jellies (not the lower sugar variety), the Brix percentage should be anywhere from 60 to 65 percent, with 65 percent being ideal, and is typically measured when close to filling the jars.

Another tool is a pH meter. This helps to understand the acidity in the jam or jelly. With a Brix percentage of 60 to 65 percent, the pH shouldn’t be lower than 2.8, and no higher than 3.2. I have learned these are the ranges where the end results have been most successful.

Although a product made outside of these parameters may be considered acceptable by some, there will be a higher level of inconsistencies.

A gram scale that can measure up to .01/g is very helpful when adding the precise amount of pectin into the jelly or jam. Pectin is a powder mainly extracted from citrus fruits that acts as a gelling or thickening agent in food products. It is a good source of soluble dietary fiber that, when digested by humans, slows glucose absorption and reduces blood cholesterol levels. Pectin is found in large concentrates in apples, oranges, pears, guavas, citrus fruits and some berries.

Generally, conventional pectin requires high sugar levels (high Brix percentage, 60 to 65 percent) to gel. This type of pectin is called high methoxyl or HM. With HM pectin, the high sugar levels help the pectin bind together the fruit, the water from the fruit and the sugar, forming a gel. For a lower sugar jelly or jam recipe (low Brix percentage, 45 to 55 percent), low methoxyl (LM) pectin may be used.

This type of pectin does not rely on sugar to form the gel, but there needs to be a presence of calcium. For low sugar jellies and jams, LM pectin, in the presence of calcium, forms a more fractured, brittle jelly or jam, but still produces adequate results.

Failure can be subjective when creating jams and jellies from scratch. Just because a product has not turned out as expected does not mean someone else may find it unacceptable. When producing commercial jellies made from heritage fruit at the farm, however, customers come to expect the same flavor with each jar. The bite, as I refer to it, is paramount. So the challenge is to create a consistent flavor with each batch. It has required much trial and error, sourcing different types of pectin and pectin catalysts. Nowadays, I look forward to the new harvest of the changing seasons as another opportunity to create a memorable product.

Chef Trey Hartinger perfects his formula for fruit preserves at Congaree & Penn Farm.

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STRAWBERRY BASIL JAM Yield: 3 (8-ounce) jars INGREDIENTS 1½ pounds strawberries,

1½ pounds (680 grams)

washed and trimmed

organic sugar

1 cup basil (20 grams)

1 tablespoon plus 1¾

Remove leaves from stems

teaspoons (17 grams) rapid

and chop. Reserve stems.

set citrus pectin

PREPARATION Sterilize all cooking equipment, jars and lids by boiling for 10 minutes, then let drip dry.

Over medium heat, warm the strawberries and basil stems in a large pot. When steaming, smash the strawberries with a potato masher or the back of a large fork. Add pectin and stir until fully blended. Add sugar and cook until jam comes to a boil. Remove basil stems and stir in chopped basil. Pour jam into containers of choice, preferably with tight-fitting lids and rims. Tighten fully then back off slightly less than one-eighth turn.

Boil jars in water for 10 minutes, ensuring the jars are covered by at least 2 inches of water. Remove from water and store on a shelf, allowing full set time of 48 hours.

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Buy Local Guide

From the farm to the table, we deliver fresh local produce, meat, eggs, and artisanal goods to customers' homes. Customize each order to suit your taste buds with our simple online ordering.

386-753-4565 frontporchpickings.com

From the farm to the bottle! Fresh, Local, Probiotic rich Kombucha on draft every week!

Riverside arts Market 10 - 3 St. Aug Farmers Market 8:30 - 12:30 Rotating flavors, seasonal ingredients, Organic, Vegan, Gluten free, Non Gmo @moonbooch Cheers@drinkmoonbooch.com

Please make a point of supporting these locally owned, small businesses in our community.

Located on the north side of Jacksonville, Congaree and Penn is a rice farm, a mayhaw orchard and home to a future cidery.

11830 Old Kings Road Jacksonville hello@congareeandpenn.com congareeandpenn.com

Shakti Life Kitchen has proudly been serving our local community organic, raw, dairy free, gluten free, plant based delights for 9 years. Our snacks, desserts and meals can be found at all European Street Cafes, Native Sun Natural Markets, Grassroots, Southern Roots, Green Erth and Earth Fare. Weekly home and office deliveries are available. Eat Shakti for Life! shaktilifekitchen.com ordershakti@gmail.com

Preserving family recipes (from scratch) in our kitchen. Trasca & Co is a one-of-a-kind vintage neighborhood eatery specializing in craft beer, craft coffee, fresh baked goods and hand-crafted panino sandwiches.

Watts serves organic, cold-pressed juices, smoothies and grab-and-go food to help you squeeze the most out of life. We supply a natural boost of electricious energy to carry you through the day and beyond.

155 Tourside Drive, Suite 1500 904-395-3989 | Ponte Vedra Beach trascaandco.com

wattsjuicery.com @wattsjuicery 904.372.0693 | Jax Beach

For a complete list of our offerings, visit us on Facebook! Pick-up, catering and custom orders. Find us Saturdays at the St. Augustine Amphitheatre Farmers' Market, or at the Market at Stewart’s and Juniper Market in St. Augustine every day of the week.

585-734-3207 MayanSummerFoods@gmail.com

Complete garden center with everything you need to create a sustainable home garden & landscape! Wide variety of Florida Native, bee-friendly & pollinator plants, flowers, fruit trees, vegetables & organic seeds. Local honey, too! Family owned and operated since 1979!

1690 A1A South St. Augustine 904-471-0440 southernhorticultureflorida.com

Nourish Juice CafĂŠ offers unique and creative organic juices and smoothies made fresh to order. Our knowledgeable staff looks forward to helping with all your nutritional needs.

Vegan, Gluten Free and Raw. 1510 King Street Jacksonville 904-574-3557 Find us on Instagram & Facebook

A Thirst For Dehydrating J UST R E M OV E WAT E R

WORDS CARRIE ZARKA DOOLEY | PHOTOS MURIEL SILVA

S

everal years ago, after a long period of health issues, my life took a dramatic turn when I shifted my diet to be raw-food based, and I began to embrace foods intended to nourish and heal my body. At this transitional time, I referred often to a cookbook called “Raw Food Real World” as a way to learn how to incorporate more than apples and carrots into my daily routine. From this resource, I learned the value of a food dehydrator to add variety and interest to my diet.

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While proponents of a raw food diet believe cooking destroys not only many of the vitamins in food but also enzymes that may be important to health, dehydrators are beneficial for preparing foods that are uncooked or cooked at low temperatures. Technically, food that reaches 118 degrees is not considered raw, as the nutritional value may diminish at higher temperatures. On a raw food diet, however, dehydrating temperatures for foods that still qualify as raw once dried are usually between 105 and 115 degrees, lower than the 135 to 150 degrees usually recommended for drying fruits and veg-

etables. Keep in mind that dried raw foods may take up to one-third longer drying times than called for in typical dehydration recipes.

Dehydrating is an excellent approach for preserving meats and fish, as well as fruits and vegetables. Removing the moisture by drying food inhibits the growth of bacteria, yeasts and molds. It is an ancient practice, used by mankind since 12,000 B.C. Before electricity and refrigeration and especially before artificial chemical preservatives were invented, our ancestors learned how to make their food last through the year giving nourishment and sustenance.

My first experiment with dehydration came after months of eating raw vegetables and fruit. I needed something to jazz up my menu and found a recipe for raw vegan quiche. As it called for a dehydrator, which I didn’t own, I determined I would use the same technique as our ancestors and let the sun bake it. I walked out into the light of day with my pie pan full of an organic nut crust covered with cheesecloth (to keep the bugs off) and placed it right in the rays of the sun. Sure enough, it worked — after about four hours in the midday sun, I had an organic, raw, vegan sun-baked pie crust.

Encouraged by my initial success, I soon entered the 21st century and bought a dehydrator. My next attempt was to make maple pecan granola. This was so much better than any of the junk food I had eaten growing up! It was so easy, I was hooked, and my five-tray Excalibur dehydrator became my new best friend.

I started dehydrating everything from corn chips, pizza crusts and samosa wraps to fruit roll-ups and chips. I found preparing food with a dehydrator to be fun, delicious and nourishing. Having an 8-year-old daughter who LOVES chips, the dehydrator has become an indispensable tool. Cabbage, kale and collard chips (on a stick) have all been well-received, and it is something we can prepare together.

Dehydrating food honors our past, connects us back to the Earth and provides vital nutrients for better health. And, when we all feel better, life is just that much better to share.

CHEEZY KALE CHIP INGREDIENTS 16 ounces cashews or other

¼ cup tamari or coconut

1 tablespoon miso

nuts or seeds

aminos

1½ teaspoons sea salt

1/3 cup nutritional yeast

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

2 pounds kale, stems

6 ounces water

olive oil

removed

PREPARATION Mix all ingredients except kale in a food processor or high-speed blender. Massage into kale. Lay each leaf out flat on teflex and dehydrate at 145° for two hours and then turn down to 115° for another eight hours. Dehydrating longer or overnight and keeping at 115° also works. *For a warm kale salad, take out while still soft.

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Our Harvest Diaries

Pears

P

ears are a great source of copper, vitamin C, vitamin K and potassium. A medium pear gives you more than 20 percent of your daily requirement of fiber and has just 100 calories. This makes pears the perfect choice to help with digestion and lowering your cholesterol. Pears are a fantastic snack, since the high fiber helps you stay fuller for longer between meals and reduces cravings for unhealthy snacks. Pears can be baked, roasted, poached or grilled. You can even try dehydrating pears — this is an unexpected way to prepare them that is tasty and full of flavor!

Learn more from Karen, our nutrition specialist, at: ackermancancercenter.com/blog

Dehydrating pears

If you don’t have a food dehydrator, you can use your oven to make dried fruit.

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Choose firm pears and wash them. Slice the pears using a mandoline. Use the number two setting so the pears are the right thickness. Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the pear slices on the paper. Bake in the oven for two hours. Turn the pears over and return to the oven. Continue baking and turning the pears every two hours.

The whole process may take between six and eight hours, depending on how dry you want the pears.

Note: Don’t recognize these pears? Locally grown sand pears look more like apples, and are eaten when firm and crispy.

Photo by Stefanie Keeler

EDIBLE INGREDIENT

Pear Granola Bars These homemade granola bars make a tasty after-school snack.

Recipe by Karen Ambrosio, Ackerman Cancer Center

INGREDIENTS ½ cup dates

¼ cup cranberries or

½ cup creamy almond butter

golden raisins

1 cup almond flour

¼ cup finely chopped almonds

1 cup rolled oats

¼ cup mini chocolate chips

1/3 cup shredded coconut

1 cup dried pears, chopped

PREPARATION Soak the dates in warm water for 20 minutes. Drain the water and process the dates in a food processor until smooth. Add about 2 tablespoons of water to help make the dates creamier. Add almond flour and mix until a paste forms. Then add rolled oats, coconut, cranberries or raisins, finely chopped almonds and chocolate chips.

Pulse until well mixed. Cover a baking dish with plastic wrap or parchment paper. Transfer the mixture into the dish and press until it is uniformly flattened. (The mixture can also be formed into small balls.) Place the baking dish in the refrigerator or freezer for about one hour. Remove from the refrigerator and chop into little squares.

Decorate with the dehydrated pears.

Note: Store in containers or sealed plastic bags in the freezer to keep them firm and fresh.

Photo by Amy Robb

EDIBLE DIY

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Sauerkraut

WORDS MARIAH SALVAT | PHOTOS MURIEL SILVA

P

erhaps you've had sauerkraut before, be it at grandma's house or on a hot dog. You know, that pale beige lifeless stuff. That was all I knew of sauerkraut (kraut) and fermentation for most of my life. My roommate in college was of Polish descent and grew up eating fermented foods like borsch and sauerkraut, but there was a difference. What she ate was made from scratch with ingredients grown on her brother's farm outside Santa Fe, New Mexico. Everything about their kraut was different. It was bright in flavor and color, the crunch was so satisfying and delicious you knew this food was not only tasty, but also incredibly good for you. I had to learn.

I moved to their farm after graduating from college and was excited to learn more about growing food and making it into my daily nourishment. We all worked side-by-side both in the field and in the kitchen. The family was a wealth of knowledge and taught me most of what I know about growing, making, preparing and sharing food. From their humble roots, they created the most delectable dishes. Finally the day came when the cabbage was ready for harvest and we were able to make sauerkraut. We cut cabbage, shredded carrots and ginger, diced garlic and soaked seaweed. We washed the crock, cutting boards and knives. Everything had to be clean and sterile.

Each item was in its own bowl, so that with each handful you could equally distribute the vegetables. Layer by layer, the salted vegetables were combined and pressed again and again. Once all of the vegetables were incorporated, we used several big cabbage leaves and a plate to press the brine over the vegetables. Next came a bag or large piece of plastic and

finally water and a weight. The goal was to get all of the vegetable submerged in the salty brine that would then protect them from the air and the wrong bacteria. Finally, we stored the crock in a cool, dark room.

After about six weeks, we took the crock out of its hiding place and began to undo the steps we'd done a month before.

Once the plate was removed, we were able to take a clean fork and try our creation. It was divine. We put up all the kraut in jars and stored it in their root cellar for future enjoyment.

Fermentation as a food preservation process has been utilized since the beginning of civilization. Not only does it allow some inedible foods to become edible, it also allows food to have a much longer shelf life. As a fermented food, sauerkraut is created by welcoming bacteria specific to your location and each batch tastes a little different. This is one of the things that makes fermentation so magical. It is dependent on the soil your vegetables grow in, the bacteria on your hands and in the air around you. Even when I use the same ingredients and the same recipe, each batch is a little different.

Cultures around the world have different traditions of fermentation, be it kimchi in Korea or Ethiopian injera (flatbread). Creating and consuming cultured foods has a direct correlation to the culture of a place and is often one of the pillars of the cuisine. Even though I live a more urban lifestyle and don't get my hands in the dirt nearly as much as I like, working with vegetables and continuing to experiment and learn about fermentation keeps me intrigued by the world around me, on a global and microscopic level.

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HOMEMADE SAUERKRAUT You can use a traditional clay crock, food-grade plastic bucket or a half-gallon Mason jar.

INGREDIENTS 1 head green cabbage

diced

1 head purple cabbage

5 cloves garlic, minced

5 carrots, shredded

4 tablespoons salt

1 (3-inch) piece ginger,

Container

PREPARATION Peel off the outside three layers of each cabbage. Reserve for later use. Chop remaining cabbage into strips about a half-inch thick. Place in separate bowls. Shred carrots into a bowl. Place remaining ingredients in their own bowls.

Clean the container with warm, soapy water. Begin with a handful of each vegetable and place in container. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Mix until salt is evenly distributed. Repeat previous steps until all the vegetables are used. Let sit for three hours covered and unrefrigerated. After three hours, remove the lid and begin to press vegetables down. Liquid should begin to be released. Once the vegetables are completely submerged under the liquid brine, place saved whole cabbage leaves on top of the vegetables so they are completely covered. Place a plate, stone or other flat object over the leaves so when the weight is applied, it will evenly press them down.

Get two clean plastic bags, such as garbage bags and double bag them (place one bag inside the other). Then place into container. Place a weight such as jugs filled with water, stones or a heavy cast iron pot in the bags sitting in crock. Pour water into the plastic bags so that the water gets into every crevice and makes it airtight. Place out of the way in a closet or pantry where it can be left alone for six weeks.

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RECLAIM THE

e terrain f Gardening is Good for You

WORDS COURTNEY BABCOCK | PHOTOS JESSE BRANTMAN

Tanijah Halls helps her brother Nasiyah in the garden at the Academy Foundation.

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D

uring both World Wars, citizens in America and other countries were encouraged to grow their own food at home.

These victory gardens were considered an act of patriotism, a way to build morale by reducing demand on the national food supply.

By May 1943, there were 18 million victory gardens in the U.S., producing over one-third of the vegetables for the country. Once the wars were over, however, gardening at home became less common, replaced by the accessibility of produce in grocery stores.

Over the past 10 years, there has been renewed interest in growing food at home or in community gardens. The National Gardening Association (NGA) reports an increase in participation among younger households, up 63 percent to 13 million since 2008, with one in three households growing some of their own food. This trend is visible locally as well, with community gardens scattered throughout the area and increased interest in the Master Gardener training available through the county extension offices.

A new program has launched to help those who love the idea of home gardens but are not quite sure where to start. Called “Fleet Farmers of Riverside,” Melissa Beaudry brought the Orlando-based concept to Jacksonville after receiving a grant from the Public Trust of Florida. A homeowner donates his or her yard to be transformed into a volunteer-led garden or “farmlette.” The volunteers, or fleets, visit the farmlette every other weekend on bike rides known as "swarms." The crops are on a drip irrigation system enabling low day-today maintenance.

“The homeowners don’t have to do any work, but we’ve found that the majority of them do help and learn the process because they feel a sense of pride,” Beaudry said. Homeowners also get to keep half

of the harvest, while the other half is sold to restaurants and markets.

Jacksonville’s first fleet farmlette has done well and Beaudry has plans in the works to add more this fall. “We just need volunteers — we have people aged 7 to 70 that come out and help, and from all skillsets.

Whatever you don’t know, we’ll teach you, and what you do know, we’ll put to work. Everyone has a spot,” Beaudry said.

Beaudry believes in the power of building community through gardens. “Community gardens help create identities in neighborhoods,” said Beaudry, adding “Jacksonville is so spread out that sometimes it loses a sense of identity.” She is also interested in preserving regional history specific to crops. The Riverside area was formerly home to citrus groves, and as a way to pay tribute to this, the first two swarm rides focused on citrus gleaning, harvesting unused oranges and other fruit.

Another encouraging step towards a more resilient food system is the growth in opportunities for children to learn how to grow food.

To encourage interest in gardening and farming, some area schools are integrating agriculture into the curriculum. One example, The Foundation Academy, a Science Technology Engineering and Math (STEM) school, has multiple gardens on their campus, including a greenhouse complete with hydroponic and aquaponic irrigation systems. The main garden, called “The Big Farm,” started around seven years ago, and produce harvested is sold at the Riverside Arts Market (RAM) on Saturdays. “Everybody has a hand in the garden,” said Tina Woolverton, who coordinates the harvest for RAM each week.

In addition to The Big Farm, each class has its own garden outside of the classroom. Teachers are using this opportunity to teach traditional subjects through gardening. Students learn biology from studying bugs and beneficial insects like butterflies. One member of the

Students at The Foundation Academy learn all aspects of growing food while taking care of multiple gardens on their campus.

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garden staff, “Miss Honey,” maintains a beehive and teaches the kids about bees. Along with understanding nutrition through the different fruits and vegetables they grow, the students also gain awareness by the food waste they put into compost bins.

“We’ve noticed a lot more children bringing healthier lunches to school so that they have better items to add to the compost for better soil,” said Woolverton, adding, “some of the kids view it as a competition and bring backpacks full of orange peels in on Monday morning following a weekend. They also bug their parents for their used coffee grounds.” Compost has opened the door to discussions that lead the students to ask, “If we don’t want it in our compost, why would we put it in our bodies?”

Teachers get creative and use the garden to provide history lessons, explaining issues such as infectious diseases with the use of medicinal herbs and world history through different types of potatoes. Introduction to the periodic table comes by testing the pH levels of the soil to see what elements were needed. The teachers feel that making lessons personal for the students allows them to take ownership of their education and have fun while doing it. The Foundation Academy hopes to grow its gardens to one day self-sustain the school and have extra produce to continue selling at RAM and help families in need in the area.

Students enrolled in Raines High School Environmental Science and Culinary Arts programs are taking STEM one step further by adding agriculture. The STEAM Urban Agriculture project, under the direction of Wealth Watchers’ Comprehensive Rural Opportunities Program, offers hands-on classes in all aspects of the food system, from growing to preparing, and provides training opportunities for career development after graduation. The students are growing greens, herbs,

“We’ve noticed a lot more children bringing healthier lunches to school so that they have better items to add to the compost for better soil,” said Woolverton

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peppers, tomatoes and other vegetables in raised beds. They hosted a Harvest Day in May as an opportunity to give back to the community.

Kiana Harper, Outreach Specialist with Wealth Watchers, oversees the project, and can see the students’ enthusiasm as they learn about the correlation agriculture has to science, technology, engineering and math. “After the students toured four different types of area farms, they were eager to take the information back and put it into practice,” she said. By working with a local farmer, Caria Hawkins of Abundant Harvest in Glen St. Mary, the students get exposure to agricultural careers they can pursue in the future.

Helping students learn about agriculture and career opportunities is a core mission at the Center for Sustainable Agriculture Excellence and Conservation (CSAEC). The local non-profit recently partnered with West Nassau High School to start a biotechnical agricultural program exploring the future of farming and the techniques associated with sustainable agriculture. CSAEC Executive Director Angela TenBroeck is working with area farmers to develop various programs designed to train students on needed skills. “If we don’t encourage kids to be farmers, we won’t have food security,” TenBroeck said.

Educating students on all aspects of growing food is a critical undertaking in our society. A recent report shows high demand for college graduates with a degree in agricultural programs. According to data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Purdue University, nearly 60,000 high-skilled agricultural and related job openings are expected annually in the U.S. over the next five years. With only about 35,000 students in food, agriculture, renewable resources or the environment graduating each year to fill these jobs, time is of the essence to demonstrate the importance of relearning the lost skill of growing food.

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GROWING GOOD LIFE LOCAL THE LIBATIONS

Saving Seeds WORDS LAUREN TITUS | PHOTO AMY ROBB The pinkeye purple hull peas in my garden were in their last stages of production, and only a couple of pods remained on each plant. While it was hard to resist picking the delicious peas, it was with an eye to next year’s garden that those pods were left to dry on the plants. It was time to save the seeds.

As we become more attuned to the importance of our local food system, we need to look at all aspects of sourcing and production.

For home gardeners, this includes knowing where our seeds come from, so we can ensure we have locally adapted and resilient plant material. The age-old practice of saving seeds, from vegetables, grain, herbs and flowers, for use from year to year, is an overlooked link to building a resilient local food system.

Agricultural biodiversity has undergone a decline over the past century, and many heritage and native plant species have been replaced with varieties that are commercially successful. The U.N.

The age-old practice of saving seeds, from vegetables, grain, herbs and flowers, for use from year to year, is an overlooked link to building a resilient local food system.

Food and Agriculture Organization estimates that some 75 percent of plant genetic diversity has been lost due to the rapid expansion of industrial agriculture and monoculture (single crop) farms, while the Millennium Ecosystem Assessment reports that 60,000 to 100,000 species of plant are currently threatened with extinction.

Concern about the world’s food security has led to various conservation techniques. Communities around the globe have created seed banks and seed exchanges among farmers, gardeners and nations. This has become a critical step towards preserving ancient, heirloom varieties of food crops. The Svalbard Global Seed Vault, on the Norwegian island of Spitsbergen, is one example of the efforts underway to ensure against the loss of seeds during large-scale regional or global crises.

What can you do on a local level? First, when you garden, start with open-pollinated, non-hybrid seeds. Hybrid seeds are created when one plant is crossed with another to create a whole new plant, and are typically used in large agri-businesses. While these types of seeds may result in higher yields and hardy plants for one season, any saved seeds will revert back to the traits of its parents, so you don’t know what your plants will produce the following year.

Second, find others in your area committed to preserving heritage plants. Seed saving is a wonderful opportunity to gather with other local gardeners in your community and share varieties that successfully grow here. One type of seed sharing that is catching on is a seed library. Similar to book borrowing in a neighborhood library, gardeners bring in their excess seeds and can “check out” other seeds for varieties they are interested in growing.

Even if you just share seeds with your neighbors, you are taking an active step in preserving the practice of sustainable food growing.

For more information on how to save seeds, visit seedsavers.org/how-tosave-seeds

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LOCAL LIBATIONS

Bit by the

Ginger Beer Bug WORDS BRIAN LAPINSKI | PHOTOS LEXI MIRE

A

number of years ago while wandering through the farmers’ market in Charleston, I passed a table with various vegetables wilting in the summer sun. Alongside there sat a big glass jug, sealed with a cork stopper, in a melting metal bowl of ice. The yellow liquid inside was cloudy, and upon close inspection, I could see its effervescence dancing and rippling inside the bottle. The liquid looked more like a lab experiment than a beverage. So naturally, I bought a cup. The flavor was intense and mesmerizing. I couldn't believe how deliciously sweet and spicy it was. On the spot, I became a ginger beer fanatic.

Thus began my years-long quest for the perfect recipe to make this naturally carbonated beverage at home. Ginger beer is traditionally carbonated and fermented with what’s called a “ginger beer plant.”

Not a plant at all, it’s a bacterial-fungal symbiotic organism, once referred to as “Bees” or “Yeast Barnacles.” It’s not quite clear how the first ginger beer plant came about, but it was popular in the 18th, 19th

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and early 20th century.

My first attempt was using the method described by Sandor Katz in his book “Wild Fermentation” to establish a “ginger bug.” Different than a ginger beer plant, this is a mixture of ginger, sugar and water that is allowed to ferment and bubble, like a sourdough starter, which becomes the base for making ginger beer. I didn't have a lot of success with this method, nor did I have the patience to wait weeks for the results. Instead, I decided to use commercial yeast and cut the fermentation time for a ginger bug from two weeks to about three days.

The process to make this drink is straightforward. Once you get the hang of making it, you can experiment with flavor variations. Ginger beer is typically non-alcoholic, though it works well as a mixer. It is commonly used with dark rum (Dark and Stormy) or with vodka and lime juice (Moscow Mule). If you happen to pass a table with a big glass jug at one of our local farmers’ market, stop by and say hi — I’ll gladly offer you a glass of my freshly made ginger beer.

HOMEMADE GINGER BEER INGREDIENTS ¼ pound fresh ginger,

2 liters water

washed, peeled and chopped

Yeast, either active dry or

1¼ cups sugar

brewer’s, such as champagne

PREPARATION Boil water and add ginger and sugar, then stir. Let boil for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and allow to cool sufficiently (I often let it cool overnight just to be safe). Once cooled, pour into a plastic screw-top bottle, leaving a third of the bottle empty for flavoring. Fruit juices like lemon, grapefruit or pineapple work well. Once you have your flavoring in, add a smidge of yeast (bread yeast works, but brewer’s yeast is the best. My favorite is champagne yeast). If using champagne yeast, add 1/32 teaspoon (it’s powerful stuff!). Shake and then place in a warm location. The ginger beer is ready when the bottle is firm, in two to three days. Place the bottle in the refrigerator.

When you are ready to open the ginger beer, do it outside, as the fermentation may cause it to blast and bubble out in a very messy way.

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LOCAL LIBATIONS

CHICHA SOUR Recipes by Cesar Diaz | Photos by Sean Kelly Conway

This cocktail includes Chicha Morada, a traditional Peruvian

PREPARATION

fermented beverage made with purple corn. Dried purple corn can

Wash pineapple well before peeling. Remove kernels from cobs

be found in Latin grocery stores.

and put both in a large pot, along with pineapple peel, lemons, cloves, one apple, cinnamon and water. Boil for 15 minutes.

INGREDIENTS 1½ ounces pisco 1 ounce Chicha Morada

Let mixture cool, then add sugar. To ferment, let sit at room ½ ounce simple syrup 1 egg white

1 ounce lemon juice

Refrigerate before serving. Use remaining apple as garnish and serve over ice or as ingredient in cocktails.

Add all ingredients to shaker and dry shake (without ice) to create foam. Add ice and shake well. Serve in a coupe glass. Garnish with mint and an edible flower.

Chicha Morada 1 pound purple corn

2 apples

1 large pineapple, peel only

1 cinnamon stick

4 lemons, quartered

1 gallon water

4 cloves

1 cup sugar

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temperature for four days. To serve, remove and discard the solids, using a slotted spoon. Pour remaining liquid through a strainer.

KING PINA Tepache, a fermented drink from Mexico, is made from pineapple and can be used as a mixer in a variety of cocktails.

INGREDIENTS 1½ ounces mezcal 1½ ounces Tepache 1 ounce lemon juice Sugar Tiki Bitters

Add all ingredients into a shaker and dry shake (without ice). Add ice, shake and double strain. Pour into an Old Fashioned glass with a 2-inch ice cube. Garnish with rosemary.

Tepache 1 large pineapple 3 quarts water 1 cup sugar PREPARATION Remove tops and peels of pineapple, leaving a quarter- to a half-inch of fruit on each peel (save fruit to eat fresh).

Combine with water and sugar in a 4-quart container with a tight-fitting lid. Stir to combine, close lid and let sit at room temperature for three to four days. Check on day three to see if mixture is a little fizzy. If not, cover and let ferment another day. Strain mixture through a fine-meshed sieve into a 4-quart container. Cover and refrigerate.

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LOCAL LIBATIONS

s truth the history c of the ipa d WORDS ZACH SWEAT Chances are, you might’ve heard the history of the hoppy India Pale Ale (IPA) a time or two, given to you by some bearded hipster with an affinity for mostly useless internet knowledge.

The story usually goes something like this: “The IPA was invented by George Hodgson at the Bow Brewery in London. He created it because beers getting shipped to India would spoil on the long journey, and the higher alcohol percentage, combined with a heaping dose of hops, would allow the beer to arrive untainted to the hands of thirsty British soldiers.”

In reality, most of this is false, though many continue to spread the story as fact.

As IPAs currently make up about half of the total sales in the U.S., what is the true origin of America’s favorite craft beer?

Beers were being shipped to India long before the “invention” of the IPA. Many travelers relied on beer as a source of safe water and nutrients, and the most common style being shipped to India early on was the porter. If you’ve ever had a high-gravity, full-bodied dark beer in the sweltering heat, it isn’t exactly ideal. This is likely where the need for a lighter and lower alcohol percentage brew was developed.

While it’s true that hops are an excellent antimicrobial agent, they were already being used by brewers to help preserve beers traveling to warm climates as early as the 1760s.

It is also rumored that Hodgson increased the alcohol percentage of his ale to ward off microorganisms, but studies actually show anything less than 10 percent isn’t very effective. Hops and

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polyphenols are the true agents preventing spoiled beer. In addition to this, the typical IPA alcohol by volume percentage we see now (around 6.5 percent) is actually lower than for beers in that time period.

The truth of Hodgson’s IPA is that his brewery’s close proximity to the East India Company’s docks and his foresight into the growing demand for lighter style beers in hot climates led him to brew more beer that was similar to the modern IPA. But Hodgson’s was not the only brewery, as others had been advised to do so since the 1760s (and they did).

This foresight would eventually lead to the Bow Brewery’s IPA becoming the most sought-after beer in the region, often demanding a higher price than competitors. In addition, the name “IPA” didn’t come about until around 1835.

Before, it was referred to as “pale ale for India.”

Despite all this, there’s no doubting that the IPA is THE beer for premiere preservation. The first recorded recipe for an IPA appeared in 1821, when Andrew Ure’s Dictionary of Chemistry claimed that fresh beer being shipped to India would have roughly four pounds of hops added to a barrel of 32 gallons.

Now, whether or not that IPA would taste ideal or have a nice hoppy aroma after a six-month voyage crossing the equator in blistering temps before landing in India is a story for another time. If you’ve got an IPA sitting in your fridge currently, it’s probably best you drink it sooner, rather than later.

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Chef Ben Kirk makes preserved lemons for the house-made vinaigrette.

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS,

Preserve ‘Em

WORDS LYNDSAY BURGINGER | PHOTOS AMY ROBB Sometimes cooking can feel like an exploration and an opportunity to learn about unfamiliar ingredients. I discovered this to be true a few years ago, while making a batch of couscous. The recipe called for preserved lemon, adding a bright citrus flavor as a balance to the almonds and cumin. Puzzled on how to make (or buy) it, I searched in a variety of stores before finding this prized possession. At the time, such an exotic food seemed like a long-lost flavor enhancer, a hidden gem of culinary delight. Lately, however, preserved lemons are making a statement in a variety of preparations, adding a can’t-quite-putyour-finger on-it sweet, citrusy flavor to dressings, sauces and many other dishes.

Preserving lemons was originally intended as a way to save the fruit

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for eating at a later time. In some parts of the world, including China, preserved lemons have been used for medicinal purposes. Chinese dietary therapists suggest that eating a preserved lemon will subdue the signs of nausea and loss of appetite due to morning sickness. It wasn’t until the 14th century that English cooks started suggesting the addition of preserved lemons into recipes strictly for culinary purposes.

Today, it is a common condiment in South Asian and North African cuisines, and preserved lemons are a key component of the Moroccan dish tagine.

Closer to home, Vessel Sandwich Company, a small cafe in Flagler Beach, is changing the game on kale salads with the addition of preserved lemons in their house-made vinaigrette. Owners Haley and

Ben Kirk serve a variety of sandwiches and salads on their Californiastyle menu. One of the most popular dishes at their shop is kale salad tossed with golden raisins and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, then topped with vinaigrette. The salad has such vibrancy, I had to learn more about using preserved lemons. Chef Ben was happy to ruminate over the secrets of saving citrus and how to incorporate the flavor into new American cuisine.

Before opening Vessel, Ben was the executive chef at Avo, a contemporary restaurant and whiskey bar in Birmingham, Alabama.

While there, he developed a preserved lemon sauce, which he paired with the menu’s chicken dish. He always thought his preserved lemon sauce would be the perfect accompaniment to a hearty green such as kale, and thus Vessel’s famous kale salad was born.

While you can buy pre-made preserved lemons at the store, the process of making them at home is relatively simple and only requires two ingredients — lemons and salt. To begin, Ben said he makes sure he purchases unwaxed lemons from his supplier. Most grocery stores add wax to fruit such as lemons, limes and apples to prevent spoiling, so if your fruit is waxed, wash the lemons first with hot water.

Next, cut the lemons into quarters, leaving a small amount of the lemon still attached at the bottom, making the lemon look like a flower. This cutting technique makes it easier to keep the lemon together to pack. Using a glass pint- or quart-sized jar, carefully place each lemon into the container, shoveling salt into the lemon and massaging the salt into each crevice. Add another and repeat the process, sprinkling salt over the lemon to coat. Continue to add the cut-up fruit until the container is filled with lemons and salt, almost to the point of bursting (Ben squeezed one more lemon into the container).

“If it looks like you can’t fit anymore in the jar, push one more in,” Chef Ben said, as he squeezes one more lemon into a jar. The pressure of the packed lemons forces more juice to escape from the fruit, thus aiding in the pickling process.

One month later, the lemons are preserved (pickled, really) and ready to be used in vinaigrette. The chef peels the flesh from the rind and tosses it aside, focusing on the rind of the lemon itself. He rinses the salt, minces the rind and adds it to the rest of the vinaigrette’s ingredients. Time for a taste test. The lemon rind is sweet and complex, and I have uncovered the secret — a perfect complement to kale or any hearty green.

The pressure of the packed lemons forces more juice to escape from the fruit, thus aiding in the pickling process.

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SEASONAL PLATE

MOROCCAN CHICKEN

Sandwiches

Recipe by Chef Tom McDonough, Flavor Palette Photo by Elise Crigar Preserved lemon provides a fresh flavor to the marinade.

The chicken can also be cooked on the grill for a weekend treat.

Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 1½ pounds boneless, skinless

3 teaspoons canola oil

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Juice of 1 lemon

chicken breast, diced

¼ cup water

1 cup toasted slivered

1 teaspoon olive oil

6 ounces Greek yogurt

almonds

16 slices Roma tomatoes

3 ounces mild harissa paste

1 cup golden raisins

4 pocket-less Pita breads

Pinch of salt

½ cup Kalamata olives, pitted

1 tablespoon preserved lemon, drained and pureed ½ teaspoon ras hanout

PREPARATION Marinate chicken with preserved lemon puree, ras hanout and 1

To assemble sandwiches:

teaspoon of canola oil for eight hours. Sauté chicken in a pan on

Lay pita down flat and spread ¼ of yogurt sauce down the center

medium heat with remaining canola oil. Add water when all sides

of each. Layer four tomato slices on top of yogurt sauce. Divide

are brown. Cover with a lid and steam until fully cooked.

chicken on top of tomatoes. Arrange almond, olive and raisin

Whisk together yogurt, harissa paste, salt and cumin. In a small

salad on top of chicken and serve.

bowl, mix almonds, raisins, olives, lemon juice and olive oil.

Lightly toast pita bread.

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FROM THE OVEN

Saving Recipes, Saving Traditions WORDS CHRISTINA LONGO | PHOTOS JESSE BRANTMAN

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Nowadays, you can Google anything and learn the ingredients and techniques to make a dish, but you can’t replace the love that feeds the tradition of cooking an heirloom recipe and sharing that meal as a family.

I

grew up in a red-sauce joint. Every Sunday in our house, my family enjoyed the ultimate Southern-Italian comfort food — macaroni and gravy. The macaroni, what’s ubiquitously called pasta nowadays, was usually something robust like rigatoni or ziti.

The gravy of our Southern-Italian tradition is a hearty ragu (sauce) of tomatoes, garlic, Italian sausage and homemade meatballs with boneless pork ribs melting tenderly into it. But the dish to write home about, the one I would beg my mom to cook when I was winging in from Seattle to Ocala for a holiday visit, was her extraordinary chicken cacciatore. This dish may have as many subtle variations as there are dialects in the Italian language, but it’s always a riff on chicken braised in tomato sauce with garlic, onions and vegetables.

I think what elevated mom’s version beyond weekday chicken dinners was the extra time she took to break down a whole bird into 10 equal parts, the crackling sound and aroma of chicken skin browning in hot olive oil in the Dutch oven, then the slow simmer of garlic, onions and carrots melding into a rich sauce we served over spaghetti.

The sweet carrots are what made that sauce sing to me. I thought about asking Mom for the recipe years ago, but it was so tied to home in my mind that I believed it would always be there for me.

My mother cooked these meals from muscle memory, not from a neatly printed recipe. They were written into her story by her immigrant family. When I was a kid, I never thought about the need to take notes in the kitchen. Mom cooked, we set the table and dried the dishes. Italian women can be extremely guarded about their cooking prowess, and unless you’re eavesdropping or watching every move, it’s easy to miss out on the secret techniques or ingredients that make a dish. I didn’t realize how critical it was to pay closer attention until, on a recent visit, I asked Mom to prepare chicken cacciatore for my daughter and me.

When we arrived, I smelled the familiar aroma of the sauce reheating in the kitchen. But when I lifted the lid of the pot to fully inhale the essence, I noticed something was missing — the carrots!

My heart sank, not just for the missing ingredient and what it would mean to the flavor of the dish, but for what was beginning to slip away from the forefront of my mother’s mind. Mom sheepishly acknowledged the lapse, but in that moment I knew that something golden would be lost if I didn’t learn this recipe before it completely fades from her memory.

Of her four children, I probably have the most sentimental attachment to my mother’s cooking. I started cooking professionally to pick up all the skills I never learned at home. I showed an interest

in helping to bake the Christmas cookies, made my own versions out of Play-doh as a kid and accepted all the hand-me-down cookbooks my mom wanted to toss. I don’t believe Mom thinks there is a legacy in her cooking. She was a nurse for over 50 years, delivering babies and saving lives in the ER, and that’s where her identity is.

To honor the tradition I was raised in, I feel compelled to preserve these recipes.

My daughter Stella already speaks of following in my footsteps as a pastry chef. I know she is watching and learning every time we are in the kitchen together. Nowadays, you can Google anything and learn the ingredients and techniques to make a dish, but you can’t replace the love that feeds the tradition of cooking an heirloom recipe and sharing that meal as a family. My daughter is old enough to know that she may not have many more years of getting to know her Grandma. My hope is that keeping this recipe alive will help Stella continue to honor the memories they have made together.

Chef Christina Longo and her daughter Stella prepare chicken cacciatore, a traditional family favorite.

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CHICKEN CACCIATORE Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS ¼ cup olive oil 8 pieces skin-on, bone in

1 medium yellow onion, cut into ¼-inch dice

chicken (preferably legs and

2/3 cup dry white wine

thighs)

1 (28-ounce) can whole

Salt and black pepper to taste

tomatoes, crushed by hand

½ cup flour 1 bay leaf 2 teaspoons dried Italian herb blend or Herbs de Provence 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice 2 cloves garlic, minced

8 ounces mushrooms, stemmed and sliced* 1 pound spaghetti, cooked al dente Optional to finish: chopped fresh Italian parsley, ripped basil leaves and grated Parmesan cheese

PREPARATION Preheat oven to 350º.

Add olive oil to a large Dutch oven or ovenproof skillet and heat over medium heat. Season chicken all over with salt and pepper, then dredge in flour to coat on all sides. Place chicken skin side down in the hot oil and brown until fragrant and crispy, about five minutes on each side.

Remove the chicken to a plate and set aside.

Add onions, garlic, carrots, dried herbs and a bay leaf to the pan and cook in hot oil until golden and beginning to soften, about eight minutes.

Add the wine and reduce by half, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Add the crushed tomatoes to the pan and stir to combine ingredients. Return the chicken to the pan, nesting on top of tomatoes so the skin stays slightly above the sauce. Bring the sauce to a simmer, then place the Dutch oven in the preheated oven and allow to braise until the chicken is cooked through, about 40 minutes.

While the cacciatore sauce is cooking, cook the spaghetti to al dente.

Towards the end of the chicken cooking time, sauté the sliced mushrooms in olive oil on the stovetop or roast in the oven. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove chicken cacciatore from the oven, taste and adjust seasoning.

Spoon a few ladles of the cacciatore sauce over the spaghetti and mix in. Serve the chicken over the spaghetti. Top each portion with some of the mushrooms and fresh herbs if using. Garnish with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. *The mushrooms were not part of my Mom’s original preparation, but something I’ve added as I’ve made the dish myself. I feel they’re a great complement to the sweetness of the sauce.

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PRESERVING A SENSE OF COMMUNITY

andrew’s homestead WORDS KATIE PARKER | PHOTOS SEAN KELLY CONWAY

O

n a grey summer morning portending heavy rain, Andrew Piezzo sat on the front porch of his store, Andrew’s Homestead. Motorists cruised south on two-lane backroads with generous views of the St. Johns River. One honked a friendly hello as they passed the charming blue and white building. Piezzo waved and leaned back in his rocking chair.

The surrounding community of Switzerland, Florida is a peaceful enclave, hemmed in by housing developments and the expanse of the river. Andrew said people here supported the opening of his store because it is a convenient option for high-quality produce.

But it is certainly much more than that.

Leonard Hartley opened Hartley’s General Store in the early 1950s, in the same building where Andrew’s Homestead now operates. For over 40 years, Mr. Hartley supplied his community with groceries, gasoline and, ever the jokester, a steady stream of pranks.

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Mr. Hartley amused himself by gluing a coin to the floor just to watch people bend over and try to pick it up. His porch was always draped with people, lounging and gossiping. Everyone knew Mr. Hartley, and Mr. Hartley knew everyone.

Even as the greater Switzerland area developed rapidly and brought in large supermarkets, Mr. Hartley’s customers remained loyal until his store closed its doors in the 1990s. The building, and iconic porch, remained vacant for the next two decades.

Now, the old camaraderie is being revived. After shopping, customers spill out onto the porch where they spend time with neighbors who they might not normally see. Nostalgic memories abound and children run around the old building, which has been restored to its former glory since Andrew’s opened in 2016. The store’s advertisement is by word of mouth, and it comes down to two things — good food and good people.

“Something magical seems to happen when you combine the two,” Piezzo said, when describing his personal and professional journey.

People understand that operating a store like Andrew’s requires unwavering dedication. Small, locally owned shops fight tirelessly for resources in true David-and-Goliath fashion, hurling pebbles at multimillion dollar conglomerates. There is also a unique sense of ownership accessible to customers when they participate in local businesses. Piezzo’s customers helped shape the store by suggesting and requesting certain items be available. W hen Andrew’s Homestead opened, only produce lined the shelves.

Dairy, condiments, soaps and kombucha are just a few of the dozens of local goods the store now offers. Customers have generously contributed expertise, decorations and volunteer hours. Piezzo feels that he and his customers have “experienced a learning curve” together since opening day.

“It’s as much mine as it is theirs,” he said. “I'll just keep moving forward and make the store better with every year. That's my way of saying thanks.”

Locally owned businesses are often able to implement customer feedback in ways that are directly returned to the customer and community. This give-and-take relationship creates trust and account-

ability between merchant and consumer. For Piezzo, this means providing the best possible goods and staying in touch with his clientele.

For customers, it means patronizing the store whenever possible and continuing to advocate for local farms and artisans in the area.

The neighborhood’s lack of grocery options makes Andrew’s Homestead even more of a critical resource, and the regular need for the same people to replenish their refrigerators and pantries leads to increased interaction between customers and Piezzo. He sees them more frequently and they get to know one another in a short period of time. Of his patrons, Piezzo said, “I know their parents. I know their grandparents.” What was once a mere grocery errand is now an outing to a place where people have a sense of belonging.

Piezzo’s customers are strong supporters of shopping locally and love good food, passions that connect them across demographics.

They may not agree on everything, but they still trade recipes.

As Piezzo said, “Good people, good food, good life.”

The strong sense of ownership granted to the community by Andrew’s Homestead, brought together by the need for food, strengthens a common ground on which neighbors can stand and support each other. Community businesses and gathering places remind us to focus on what we all share — a desire to preserve the things we love.

The store’s advertisement is by word of mouth, and it comes down to two things — good food and good people.

Andrew Piezzo stocks shelves with products from local farms and artisans in the area.

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lost Skills workshop

Series

Erin Bowers and Lauren Murphy demonstrate how to make herbal vinegars and fire cider.

H A NDS-ON LESSONS IN SELF-SUFFICIENCY WORDS LAUREN MURPHY AND KRISTIN ADAMCZYK | PHOTOS AMY ROBB

I

n 2014, while we were taking our lunch break from our work at the St. Augustine Amphitheatre, we discussed our desire to share age-old techniques and traditions in cooking, nourishment and healing. Fueled by a mutual passion for learning “new” skills, and having recently attended a workshop in our friend’s kitchen, we wanted to create a space where more of these handson skill-sharing events could take place. From that meal, the Lost Skills Workshops were born.

We took the idea to our boss, who approved the concept, and

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we got to work. We weren’t sure how much interest there would be in the community for classes teaching crafts and skills that may have traditionally been passed down to us from generation to generation, but we were truly amazed when, six weeks later, the sold-out workshop series began in the back room at the St. Augustine Amphitheatre.

In its first configuration, the Lost Skills workshops revolved around skills that we wanted to learn. It was important to us that the classes would be taught by people we knew in the community

We found that there was one singular concept that had changed our lives the most — the role of food and the ways we interact with it, namely through cooking. who had mastered these skills and incorporated them into their everyday lives. Based on those criteria, the first round of workshops included Wild Edibles & Apothecary, Fermented Beverages, Natural Dye, Fermented Foods and Leather Smithing. Our hope was that by the end of the classes, the by-products of learning these skills would be a sense of empowerment and the ability to be more self-sufficient.

The workshop series really opened our eyes to the wide variety of skills and techniques available to us. As we moved through the workshops, we began to realize the power that rested in a community’s ability to share information and skills. By learning these skills, we were also learning a new way to interact with the world around us, one that allowed us to be more responsible in our everyday actions. The classes enabled us to relearn a way of being that had previously been lost to us.

Over the next two years, through many life changes (and often because of them) we watched as certain skills took roots in our own lives. When we were ready to revisit the idea of another workshop series, we found that there was one singular concept that had changed our lives the most — the role of food and the ways we interact with it, namely through cooking.

Inspired by research done at The Weston A. Price Foundation on ancestral cuisine and "Michael Pollan’s recent book, Cooked: A History of Transformation," we developed the second set of workshops based on the skills that we used the most in our own lives related to cooking, health and herbalism. The second series included Bone Broth, Herbal Vinegars & Fire Cider, Ancient Grains & Sourdough and Herbal Apothecary, intended to encourage nourishment and healing through the things people eat and drink.

Although we are still interested in all types of “lost skills,” our love and passion for the transformative effects of food remain most important to us. In the future, we hope to host more communitybased workshops and are interested in finding ways to provide skill-sharing sessions at area farmers’ markets and other events.

Until then, we will be learning all that we possibly can and look forward to sharing space with you in the future, to become a little less dependent and a little more self-reliant!

For more information on Lost Skills workshops, visit staugamphitheatre.com

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LAST BITE

golden umami on your plate SALT-CURED EGGS The centuries-old technique of curing egg yolks has made its way onto local menus, and this golden pop of umami is welcome indeed. Grated on top of salads, pastas, beef and other dishes, the flavor of preserved yolks is reminiscent of a fine Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, but more nuanced. How does this culinary alchemy occur? A combination of salt and sugar turns a raw egg yolk into an epicurean delight.

The salt removes moisture and kills bacteria that make food rot, and the sugar feeds good bacteria, which also helps fight bad bacteria. After sitting in this mixture for several days, the yolks are further dried out in a dehydrator or oven, and voila! A cure for the common egg.

Find a recipe for salt-cured egg yolks on edibleneflorida.com

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