ISSUE TWELVE | July / August 2017
Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season
The
HEAT ISSUE Member of Edible Communities
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Photo by Wesley Parsons
Contents FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS 6
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
42 EDIBLE DIY Flambé
8 CONTRIBUTORS 11 EDIBLE TABLE What’s in Season 18 SEASONAL PLATE Skewers Local Summer Salads 22 EDIBLE INGREDIENT Zucchini 32 FROM THE OVEN Pizza on the Barbie 38 LOCAL LIBATIONS Barreling Liquid Sunshine
51 EDIBLE INNOVATORS Current Trends in Food Foo Dog Curry Traders 52 GROWING THE GOOD LIFE Growing Bird Peppers 58 EDIBLE INGREDIENTS The True Cost of Meat 62 BACK OF THE HOUSE Chef Kerri Rogers
12 SOME LIKE IT HOT The Evolution and Dissemination of the Chili Pepper Around the World 24 SOUND THE ALARM, IT’S DINNER TIME Hot Eats at the Fire Station 34 THE HOTTEST 'HOODS These Up-And-Coming Neighborhoods are on Fire with Food 46 UP IN SMOKE Our Region’s Pitmasters Talk Shop
66 LAST BITE Ice Cream Sandwiches
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. – Harry S. Truman
PUBLISHER Amy Robb amy@edibleneflorida.com EDITOR Lauren Titus lauren@edibleneflorida.com
Homeopathy, a system of alternative medicine, is based on the doctrine that like cures like — if a substance causes the symptoms of a disease in healthy people, that same substance could cure similar symptoms in sick people. Perhaps this is a good strategy to adopt during the sizzling summer months ahead in the South. Rather than resist and avoid the heat, embrace it for the transformational element that it is. What does a philosophy of engaging with heat have to do with food? From growing to cooking, chances are good that heat, in some form or another, has played a role in most food production. When we eat, temperature is one of the first sensations we detect. It can even affect how food tastes. Ingredients may have a piquancy or spiciness that become associated with a culture and a cuisine. These and other aspects are part of our features in the Heat Issue. We explore the travels peppers have taken around the world and how such tiny components as a single seed can set your mouth ablaze. We talk to area firefighters and learn about the tradition of cooking at fire stations. Too hot in the kitchen? We hear you. Check out our tips for summer salads and recipes for dinner on the grill, including a make-your-own-pizza party. Read about hot neighborhoods and trends, more evidence that our local food scene is cooking on all four burners. We hope this issue will ignite your interest in Northeast Florida’s sizzling food community during the languid days of summer. We love hearing feedback from you, so let us know how you are embracing the heat. Be sure to tag us on social media @edibleneflorida.
COPY EDITOR Zach Sweat ART DIRECTOR Wesley Parsons / Bold Brands PHOTOGRAPHY Jesse Brantman, Sean Kelly Conway, Elise Crigar, Stefanie Keeler, Wesley Parsons, Sarah Quatrano, Amy Robb, Muriel Silva CONTRIBUTORS Tim Armstrong, Karen Ambrosio, Courtney Babcock, Danny Colon, Stephen DiMare, Tia Evans, Jen Hand, Sydney Jones, Amie Keslar, Christina Longo, Jack Twachtman, Kristen Warren SALES Kassie Ashburn, Kimmy Cottin, Jonar Delmundo, Chris Griffith, Mikey Sasser, Sara Shapiro sales@edibleneflorida.com SUBSCRIBE Edible Northeast Florida is published 6 times per year by Edible North Florida, LLC. Subscriptions are $28 and available at edibleneflorida.com. FIND US ONLINE edibleneflorida.com facebook.com/edibleneflorida instagram.com/edibleneflorida twitter.com/edibleneflorida pinterest.com/edibleneflorida CONTACT US Have a story you'd like to see featured in Edible Northeast Florida? Send us your ideas! editor@edibleneflorida.com Edible Northeast Florida 102 6th Ave. N. Suite 10 Jacksonville Beach FL, 32250 p. 904-395-5628 No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. ©2017 Edible North Florida, LLC. All rights reserved.
ON THE COVER: Bird Peppers from B&D Sauce Co. Photo by Sean Kelly Conway
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Edible Communities Publications of the Year 2011
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OUR CONTRIBUTORS Karen Ambrosio Karen holds a bachelor's degree in nutrition, a master's degree in clinical nutrition and certifications in oncology nutrition and enteral nutrition. She was the manager of the nutrition service in a hospital specializing in oncology in Mexico before moving to Jacksonville to work as an oncology wellness specialist at Ackerman Cancer Center. In her free time, she enjoys speaking at conferences and workshops and runs a nutrition and wellness blog for her patients at Ackerman Cancer Center. Tim Armstrong Tim owns Eat Your Yard Jax and manages several urban farm sites in the North Florida area. He is a graduate of Will Allen’s Commercial Urban Agriculture Program in 2011. He is also a co-creator and manager of Berry Good Farms at the North Florida School of Special Education. Courtney Babcock Courtney has lived in Jacksonville while attending the University of North Florida, double majoring in journalism and graphic design. Coming from a small town, she places a lot of value in supporting local artisans and being involved in the community. She loves visiting art and farmers’ markets to see what’s new and exploring the city of Jacksonville admiring street art and finding hole-in-thewall places to eat. Jesse Brantman Jesse is an editorial and lifestyle photographer based in Jacksonville. He is also one half of the wedding photography duo, Jesse and Lexi Wedding Co. Jonathan Cobbs Born and partially raised in East Texas, Jonathan spent 18 years in Kenya with his family as missionaries where he fell for cooking, farming and, especially, bread baking. After running food businesses in Portland, Jonathan and his partner Dwayne Beliakoff recently moved to Jacksonville and opened The Bread and Board in Five Points. Danny Colon Danny, head tennis pro at the Florida Yacht Club in Ortega, is the co-founder of B and D Sauce Co. His products can be found at farmers’ markets and specialty shops throughout the area. Sean Kelly Conway Flagler grad and St. Augustine native, Kelly spent several years honing his documentary and street photography skills while working and traveling around Asia, before getting cozy in his hometown (although the horizons still beckon). When not bothering shrimpers, Kelly can be found digging through anthropological field recordings, chasing surf, photographing motel signage and giving historic photo tours in downtown St. Augustine. Elise Crigar Elise is an artist, designer, photographer and skateboarder living on the coast of Northeast Florida. Her life is strongly led by her passions and inspiration, allowing her to create the best work possible. When it feels this right, she believes it is what she was created to do. Stephen DiMare A St. Augustine native, Stephen uses fun and interesting combinations, along with creativity, to challenge your taste buds! The owner of The Hyppo, a gourmet ice pop shop, he loves to spend his time drinking coffee, traveling and catching up on a slew of murder mystery podcasts! Tia Evans Twelve years ago, Tia, a Florida native, started by asking her friends, “What is your favorite cookie?” Spending most of her time baking rather than studying,
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she headed to the West Coast to obtain a baking/pastry degree from Oregon Culinary Institute. After three years of missing the sun and perfecting decadent desserts, she returned to Florida and baking cookies. You can find your favorite cookie at The Hyppo Café. Jen Hand Jen is a freelance writer based in St. Augustine. Her work has appeared in the St. Augustine Record and Folio Weekly and currently blogs for RoadBikeOutlet. com. A former short order cook, caterer, bartender and baker, she loves her CSA and farmers’ markets and may have a slight cookbook problem. When not eating copious amounts of vegetables, Jen is found running trails, paddling the Intracoastal or playing soccer. Sydney Jones Sydney is the Tasting Room Manager for Manifest Distilling, Jacksonville's downtown craft distillery, and handles retail operations, promotional events, tours and spirit production. Previously, she worked for MB Roland Distillery in Pembroke, Kentucky, where she distilled bourbon, whiskey and moonshine on the Kentucky Bourbon Craft Trail. Sydney also writes for the online bourbon newsletter Bourbon Zeppelin as their field reporter. Stefanie Keeler Born and raised in Miami Beach, Stefanie is now a senior at Jacksonville University, working on her BFA (with a concentration in photography). In between shooting weddings and eating locally, she is a self-taught fiber artist and loves exploring Jacksonville. Amie Keslar Amie became interested in the local food system soon after being diagnosed with an autoimmune disorder in 2010. The drive to better her own health turned into a passion for supporting farms and bridging the gap in the local food supply. With that passion, she started The Veggie Bin in 2011, a farm-to-table delivery service. In 2014, her company merged with Front Porch Pickings, where she is still active in every aspect of her business, including the daily operations. Christina Longo Christina has spent the past two decades honing her culinary and baking skills in hotel and restaurant kitchens from the Pacific Northwest to a patisserie just west of Paris, with stops in New York and Tokyo for good measure. Christina is currently Pastry Chef at Taverna San Marco, where she specializes in crafting house-made gelato and Italian-inflected pastries for the dessert and brunch menus. Find her on Instagram @stelladolci30 Muriel Silva Muriel is a professional lifestyle and commercial photographer recently relocated from the D.C. area. A lover of all things coastal and passionate about food and people, she is really enjoying exploring the area and connecting with this wonderful community. You can visit her website to browse through her work or to connect with her. Jack Twachtman Jack is the owner and general manager of BREW Five Points and has been an instrumental part of such Northeast Florida institutions as Burro Bar, Burro Bags and One Spark. His passions are specialty coffee and craft beer, but he spends all his free time in the kitchen fermenting and preserving whatever he can get his hands on. Kristen Warren As Purchasing Coordinator at Front Porch Pickings, Kristen combines her passion of eating well and having a positive impact on communities by sourcing fresh, local produce from farmers who care about our community and our land.
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TRADITIONAL MEXICAN STREET FOOD
Spanish Inspired, Locally-Rooted Cuisine 25 Cuna Street in Downtown St. Augustine 904.810.2400 | michaelstastingroom.com
410 Anastasia Boulevard, St. Augustine 904.826.4040 www.mellowmushroom.com
Pick-up. Catering. Custom Orders. Saturdays at the St. Augustine Farmers Market. mayansummer.com | 585-734-3207
SAINT AU G USTINE Eat. Drink. Shop. Explore. #ediblestaug
134 Sea Grove Main Street, St. Augustine Beach | 904.429.9647Â www.TerraAcquaRestaurant.com
Taproom located at 218 West King Street, St. Augustine bogbrewery.com | 904.679.3146
Cupcakes. Cakes. Foodstuff. Smiles.
115 La Quinta Place, St. Augustine Open Daily from 9 am to 6 pm 904.429.3070 | www.rypeandreadi.com
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Craft Cocktails & Odd Bites 33 Charlotte St., St. Augustine, FL 32084 www.oddbirdsbar.com 904-679-4933
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82 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine 904.824.5280 luliscupcakes.com
EDIBLE TABLE
What's in Season?
Here’s a list of the produce and seafood you can expect to find at your local farmers’ market and on local menus in the coming months. Don’t hesitate to ask where your food is grown and sourced.
PRODUCE
Malabar spinach
Thyme
Amaranth (Calaloo)
Marjoram
Tomatoes
Basil
Mint
Watermelon
Beans
Moringa
Zucchini
Blackberries
Muscadine Grapes
Blueberries
Nectarines
SEAFOOD
Cantaloupe
Okinawa spinach
Amberjack
Che (Chinese Mullberry)
Okra
Black Sea Bass
Chives
Oregano
Bluefish
Corn
Pawpaw
Cobia
Cucumbers
Peaches
Flounder
Curry Leaf
Peanuts
Grouper
Eggplant
Pears
Hogfish
Feijoa (Pineapple Guava)
Peppers
King Mackerel
Figs
Potatoes
Mahi
Garlic chives
Pumpkins
Pompano
Hot Peppers
Roselle Hibiscus
Red Drum
Jute/Molokhia/Egyptian
Rosemary
Sheepshead
Spinach
Shiso (Perilla frutescens)
Shrimp
Lemon grass
Summer Squash
Triggerfish
Luffa/Chinese okra
Sweet Potatoes
Vermilion Snapper
Photo by Elise Crigar
Information provided by Florida Department of Agriculture, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, South Atlantic Fishery Management Council and other sources. EdibleNEFlorida.com
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Cheryl Wainwright Finney and the family's prized cow Granola.
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T H E E VO LU T I O N A N D D I S S E M I N AT I O N O F T H E C H I L I P E P P E R A RO U N D T H E WO R L D WORDS JACK TWACHTMAN | ILLUSTRATION SARAH QUATRANO From Mexican food to Indian and Thai to Caribbean, the humble, yet powerful, chili pepper has become a staple in cuisines around the world. It should come as no surprise that the mighty little fruit has rooted itself as an essential part in the foodways of some of the planet’s poorest countries. A little goes a long way, after all. What may surprise you, however, is the plant’s relatively recent domestication, evolution and dissemination considering its widespread proliferation. The chili pepper was most likely born in Bolivia, which today is home to the greatest diversity of wild chili pepper varieties. From there, it spread throughout South and Central America, evolving
DUBBED “BLACK GOLD” THE SPICE WAS SO VALUABLE IT WAS ACTUALLY TREATED AS CURRENCY AT THE TIME, DOLED OUT ONE LITTLE PEPPERCORN AT A TIME IN EXCHANGE FOR GOODS AND SERVICES.
Columbus fashion, he christened them pimiento, the Spanish word for pepper due to their piquant resemblance to the highly prized spice of the Piperaceae family. The word “chili,” or “chile,” came later from the Nahuatl (Aztec) word “chilli,” as it is still called in Mesoamerica, although they never adopted the pepper part. In the Caribbean, they are still referred to as aji. The first chili to make the transatlantic voyage to Europe arrived in Spain in 1493, thanks to one of Columbus’ physicians, Diego Alvarez Chanca, who wrote extensively about the plant’s medicinal properties. Although the Spanish lay claim to bringing the chili to Europe, Portuguese spice traders were responsible for its proliferation, carrying it with them into Asia and India. It was in India where things really took off. Today, India is the world’s largest producer, exporter and consumer of chilies, responsible for 43 percent of the world’s peppers, with China’s share coming in second place at just 9 percent. So it goes that the chili pepper, born in the remote climes of the Americas, traveled the globe and cemented itself into the hearts, minds and cuisines of cultures the world over.
H OW H OT I S TO O H OT ? and adapting to local climates and terrain until it was finally domesticated in pre-Columbian Mexico about 6,000 years ago. The result was Capsicum annuum, a species which includes the most common pepper varieties such as bell pepper, jalapeno, cayenne and poblano. From there, peppers from across South and Central America made their way to Peru, which is now home to all five cultivars and the greatest number of domesticated varieties. As we all know, Christopher Columbus came to the Americas seeking a shortcut to India, but his reason for doing so was to secure a trade route for black peppercorns. Dubbed, “black gold” the spice was so valuable it was actually treated as currency at the time, doled out one little peppercorn at a time in exchange for goods and services. Just as Columbus stumbled upon the Americas and misidentified them as the Indies, he also stumbled upon aji, the native word for the domesticated members of the Capsicum family. In true
Order a dish from just about any Thai menu in the U.S. and you’ll soon be faced with an important decision — how spicy do you want it? Known and admired for its intense heat, Thai food packs a mighty wallop thanks to the prevalent use of bird’s eye chili, one of the hotter naturally occurring varieties of chili pepper at over 100,000 Scoville heat units (SHU). Represented numerically, the often misleading and somewhat arbitrary scale employed by American Thai restaurants traditionally follows a logarithmic path from really spicy to something akin to ingesting lava straight from an active volcano. At Pattaya Thai Grille in Jacksonville, thrill-seeking chili-heads are able to step things up to an even more extreme level if they are so inclined, but not without releasing the restaurant from liability. If you want your dish prepared “Crazy Hot,” you’ll need to sign a waiver first. That’s because Chef Russell Clayton uses chilies of his
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own breeding to make the puree responsible for turning the heat up to 11. Using a machine that allows him to clone different pepper varieties, Russell experiments with the genetics of heavy hitters like the infamous ghost pepper and the even more ominous Trinidad moruga scorpion (native to Moruga in Trinidad and Tobago, measured at 1.2 million SHU) to create his own punishingly hot pepper hybrids. Clayton cautions that the waiver is neither novelty nor gimmick, it’s a necessity. “Sometimes we have to back away in the kitchen when the fumes get in the air and get in your eyes,” he explained, illustrating the potency of his peppers. “I’ve accidentally splashed some of it on my leg before and it literally gave me a raised welt.” When it comes to understanding what motivates someone to pursue such pleasures at the cost of such pain, Russell has some insight. “I think it’s the high,” he said. “You get an endorphin rush and go into almost a state of euphoria. You get these goosebumps and sometimes it even gets to the point where your ears will pop.” There are those who claim that spicy food is an addiction. Recent science, however, suggests that it could be psychology, not biology that determines a person’s affinity for spicy food. Sensation and novelty-seeking behavior may be what draws the adventurous deeper and deeper into their quest for the spiciest bites. But that particular personality does not appear to be linked to genetics or even societal influence. “I know people of all cultures who like to eat really spicy food,” Russell said. Although ingesting spicy foods as a matter of course can make you more accustomed to the burn, building a physical tolerance has little to do with one’s predilection for extremely spicy food. Instead, studies show that chili-heads actually
"I think it’s the high. You get an endorphin rush and go into almost a state of euphoria. You get these goosebumps and sometimes it even gets to the point where your ears will pop." possess a desire or affectation for the physical pain associated with the heat. It’s not that certain people are less sensitive to heat, it’s that they simply enjoy the burn. As for Russell, he’s been known to enter a chili eating contest here and there and won’t shy away from a challenge after a few beers. But when it comes to how he takes his meals, don’t expect him to push it past what he calls “Thai Hot” at the restaurant, which gets its punch from the traditional Thai bird chili. “I’ve eaten ghost peppers and Carolina Reapers and all that stuff, but I didn’t really enjoy it. I did it just to do it.”
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Chef Russell Clayton experiments with pepper varieties to create his own hot pepper hybrids.
Buy Local Guide
From the farm to the table, we deliver fresh local produce and artisanal goods to customers’ homes. Customize each order to suit your taste buds with our simple online ordering. 386-753-4565 frontporchpickings.com
We’re passionate about providing our community with the best things the area has to offer. Through our grocery aisles, you’ll find local craft beer, local hot sauce, local toffee and more. Lucky’s Market loves local!
Located on the north side of Jacksonville, Congaree and Penn is a rice farm, a mayhaw orchard and home to a future cidery. 11830 Old Kings Road Jacksonville hello@congareeandpenn.com congareeandpenn.com
Please make a point of supporting these locally owned, small businesses in our community.
Grater Goods is located in the heart of Murray Hill and is Jacksonville’s only stand alone cheese and charcuterie shop. We specialize in American made cheeses and cured meats. 1080 Edgewood Ave. S. #9 Jacksonville 904-203-8533
Trasca & Co Eatery is a one-of-akind vintage neighborhood eatery, specializing in hand-crafted Italianinspired sandwiches, craft beer and craft coffee! 155 Tourside Drive, Suite 1500 904-395-3989 | Ponte Vedra Beach trascaandco.com
From the farm to the bottle! Fresh, Local, Probiotic rich Kombucha on draft every week! Riverside arts Market 10 - 3 St. Aug Farmers Market 8:30 - 12:30 Rotating flavors, seasonal ingredients, Organic, Vegan, Gluten free, Non Gmo
Complete garden center with everything you need to create a sustainable home garden & landscape! Wide variety of Florida Native, bee-friendly & pollinator plants, flowers, fruit trees, vegetables & organic seeds. Local honey, too! Family owned and operated since 1979!
@moonbooch Cheers@drinkmoonbooch.com
1690 A1A South St. Augustine 904-471-0440 southernhorticultureflorida.com
218 1st St, Neptune Beach, FL 32266 904-246-0881 slidersseafoodgrille.com
Distinctly flavorful “Aji Chombo” Panamanian-style hot sauces that can be used to liven up any dish, or as a curiously different marinade. In keeping with tradition, all of our sauces are all natural!
Watts serves organic, cold-pressed juices, smoothies and grab-and-go food to help you squeeze the most out of life. We supply a natural boost of electricious energy to carry you through the day and beyond.
Nourish Juice Café offers unique and creative organic juices and smoothies made fresh to order. Our knowledgeable staff looks forward to helping with all your nutritional needs. Vegan, Gluten Free and Raw.
FreshJax is a vegan cafe and relaxing yoga studio. Our caring, compassionate staff will guide you into a more relaxed state with delicious, wholesome food and gentle Kripalu yoga.
Jacksonville Beach, FL www.howlermonkeysauce.com Lacey@panamahotsauce.com
wattsjuicery.com @wattsjuicery 904.372.0693 | Jax Beach
1510 King Street Jacksonville 904-574-3557 Find us on Instagram & Facebook
11526 Lake Mead, Unit 103 Jacksonville, FL 32256 www.FreshJax.com
@luckysmarketneptunebeach 580 Atlantic Boulevard Neptune Beach, FL 32266 904.595.1916 www.luckysmarket.com
Join us Thursday’s for the longest running Happy Hour Oyster special in Jacksonville at Sliders Seafood Grille. Enjoy live music Saturday and Sunday on the verandah with an ocean breeze. Sliders specializes in fresh eclectic seafood.
U N D E R STA N D I N G T H E
Scoville Scale
WORDS JACK TWACHTMAN | ILLUSTRATION SARAH QUATRANO
Ever wonder what makes chili peppers hot? They get their heat from a chemical called “capsaicin,” which causes a burning sensation to occur when exposed to raw tissue. The intensity produced by a particular chili’s capsaicin concentration is quantified using the Scoville scale, a subjective measurement of the amount of dilution in a sugar syrup required to neutralize the heat. The more intense the heat, the higher the Scoville heat units (SHU), with pure capsaicin weighing in at 16,000,000 SHU. Modern tests use the more objective high performance liquid chromatography method to obtain
BELL PEPPER
more accurate and reliable measures, but with new peppers reaching heat levels higher than what most humans can tolerate, that kind of precision is often unnecessary. Chili peppers can also be made hotter these days through selective breeding, which has caused self-proclaimed “chili-head” horticulturalists to push the boundaries of science and nature to their literal extremes. Here are a few chilies from around the world ranked in order of their heat level. Some are traditional, some are modern, but all have their place.
(0 SHU)
Found in cuisines around the world, the bell pepper, or sweet pepper, contains a recessive gene that actually prevents the formation of capsaicin altogether. It is often stir-fried or added to curries and forms the basis of Cajun cooking as a member of the “Holy Trinity” of cooking when paired with onion and celery.
P I M E N TA B I Q U I N H O
(500 - 1,000 SHU)
This cute Brazilian chili is bright red and surprisingly sweet with very little heat. Pickled, they are commonly found next to the olives at churrascaria salad bars across the country.
POBLANO
(1000 - 1500 SHU)
A true staple, the poblano is the most ubiquitous chili in Mexican cuisine, taking its name from its homeland of Pueblo. It is most commonly roasted and cut into strips called rajas and used as a filling for everything from tamales to enchiladas. They can be left whole and stuffed to make chiles rellenos or dried to become anchos, which can be ground into powders or toasted and rehydrated to make sauces like the popular mole poblano.
JA L A P E N O
(1,000 - 20,000 SHU)
The state pepper of Texas, the noble jalapeño is likely the only chili to have flown in outer space. This medium-spicy pepper is often sliced fresh, pickled or grilled (stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon, of course), forming the crux of Tex-Mex cuisine. When smoke-dried, they are known as chipotle peppers.
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B I R D’S E Y E C H I L I
(100,000 - 225,000 SHU)
Sometimes called a Thai chili, this tiny powerhouse is what heats up the spiciest dishes of Southeast Asia. It is common in curries and condiments like sambal or used to spice up Vietnamese soups and stir-fries.
DAT I L
(100,000-300,000 SHU)
While grown throughout the country, the datil is mainly produced and most notorious for its roots in St. Augustine, where it was believed to have been brought to the U.S. in the late 18th century. Mature peppers are yellow-orange in color and commonly used in Minorcan recipes.
S C O TC H B O N N E T
(100,000 - 400,000 SHU)
Often mistaken for and substituted by its close relative the habanero, this tropical variety is predominantly found in the Caribbean where it flavors jerk dishes, giving them their signature heat and sweetness. In Central America, it flavors ceviches where it is known as aji chombo. It gets its name from its resemblance to the traditional tam o’shanter hat.
G H O ST P E P P E R
(1,000,000 SHU)
Known as Bhut jolokia or red naga in its homeland India, this cultivated varietal held the world record for the hottest chili in the world until it was displaced by the Trinidad Moruga Scorpion in 2012 and subsequent contenders since. Unlike most chilis which store a majority of their capsaicin in the seeds and placenta, the ghost pepper holds it in vesicles throughout the fruit so there’s no escaping its intense heat. Far too hot for normal consumption, it has been known to find its way into pastes and oils that no sane person would ever touch.
CA RO L I NA R E A P E R
(2,200,000 SHU)
Until very recently, the Carolina Reaper was the unrivaled hottest pepper in the world. Developed by a horticulturalist in Rock Hill, South Carolina, this ominous-looking pepper is a cross between the aforementioned ghost pepper and the red habanero. Searching this particular breed on YouTube will result in hours-worth of schadenfreude as many have documented their attempts to consume this little fireball with often disastrous results.
D R AG O N ’S B R E AT H
(2,480,000 SHU)
Just this year, a new record-breaking chili was bred in Wales. Using a newly developed plant food, the Dragon’s Breath chili, named for the iconic dragon that symbolizes its homeland, is not only incredibly hot, it’s downright deadly. Although no one has yet to orally consume this monster, it is believed that doing so would likely cause the eater to go into anaphylactic shock, possibly shutting down normal body function.
SEASONAL PLATE
TERIYAKI TOFU
COFFEE-RUBBED BEEF
Skewered WORDS LAUREN TITUS | PHOTOS AMY ROBB
What to do when it’s hot outside and it’s time to put dinner on the table? Skewers to the rescue! It’s easy to grill the whole meal, from salad to dessert, with these quick-to-fix marinades. Just add a cool drink and you have it made in the shade.
DECONSTRUCTED POTATO SALAD
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CHILI-LIME CHICKEN This marinade is perfect for a spicy, citrusy kick. For optimal flavor, marinate overnight. INGREDIENTS
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut in 1-½inch chunks ½ cup oil (canola or vegetable) 1 teaspoon chili powder
Juice of 1 lime, about 3 tablespoons 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon garlic powder or 2 cloves, minced
PREPARATION
Combine all marinade ingredients in a jar and shake well. Place pieces of chicken in a large zip-top bag and pour in marinade. Close bag and toss gently to coat. Chill one hour or overnight.
EGGPLANT PARMESAN
COFFEE-RUBBED BEEF Use this rub to add a slightly sweet new twist to your favorite cut of meat. INGREDIENTS
¼ cup finely ground coffee
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
2 teaspoons chili powder 1 tablespoon garlic powder
1-½ pounds top sirloin steak, cut into 1-½-inch cubes, fat trimmed
PREPARATION
Mix all rub ingredients together with a fork in a medium bowl. Using your hands or tossing in a bag, coat beef chunks liberally and cook.
TERIYAKI TOFU Perfect with your favorite vegetables, this is also great with tempeh. INGREDIENTS
CHILI-LIME CHICKEN
1 tablespoon tamari sauce
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 teaspoons mirin
1 pound extra-firm tofu, pressed and cut into 1-½-inch pieces
1 teaspoon garlic powder or 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
¼ cup toasted sesame seeds
PREPARATION
Whisk all marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Brush on vegetables and tofu while grilling, then finish with toasted sesame seeds. EdibleNEFlorida.com
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DECONSTRUCTED POTATO SALAD An easy-to-make side with no bowls required! To speed up the cook time on these kebabs, parboil potatoes before finishing them on the grill. INGREDIENTS
¼ cup vegetable oil
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 pound red potatoes, cut into ½-inch rounds
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 red onion, cut into thick slices ½ pound bacon
PREPARATION
Whisk all marinade ingredients together in measuring cup. Brush on skewered potatoes, onions and bacon, then grill until cooked.
EGGPLANT PARMESAN After cooking, remove ingredients from skewers and toss with cubes of mozzarella cheese for a variation on eggplant parmesan. INGREDIENTS
1 eggplant, cut in 1-½-inch cubes
1 package cherry tomatoes
½ loaf crusty bread, cut in 1-½-inch cubes
½ cup pesto sauce*
PREPARATION
Assemble skewers, alternating eggplant, bread and tomatoes. Brush with pesto sauce while grilling over medium heat. Cook until eggplant is soft, turning frequently to prevent bread from burning. *Use your favorite pesto sauce or visit edibleneflorida.com for a recipe.
DESSERT KEBABS End your meal with this party on a stick, featuring summertime fruit and pound cake. INGREDIENTS
1 pound cake, cut into 2-inch cubes Vegetable oil
4 cups watermelon, cantaloupe, peaches or pineapple, cut into 1-½inch pieces
PREPARATION
Assemble skewers, alternating pound cake and fruit. Brush with vegetable oil while grilling to prevent sticking.
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Our Harvest Diaries
Zucchini
Z
ucchinis are an excellent source of potassium, fiber, Vitamin C, Vitamin A and manganese. They are high in water content, low in carbs and fat free, and with a seasonal peak in July and August they’re the perfect addition to your summer diet. Due to their mild flavor, this versatile vegetable can be eaten raw, baked, sautéed, grilled, steamed, fried, blended, shredded, breaded and even made into zucchini noodles! “Zoodles” make for a great twist on a traditional salad or replacement for pasta. Learn more from Karen, our nutrition specialist, at: www.ackermancancercenter .com/blog
Oodles of Zoodles Getting perfect zucchini noodles is made easier with kitchen gadgets designed to help you spiralize them and they are often well worth the investment. Also, zucchinis have a very high water content. After spiralizing, allow your zoodles to sit in a bowl for approximately 30 minutes, then transfer them to a cheese cloth or towel and gently squeeze to drain excess liquid before using.
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EDIBLE INGREDIENT
Sunflower Zoodle Salad in a Jar Recipe by Karen Ambrosio, Ackerman Cancer Center Serves 4 | Photos by Amy Robb
Salad 1 zucchini, cut into thin noodles ¼ cup roasted red bell peppers, cut into strips ¼ cup carrots, cut into matchsticks ¼ cup purple cabbage, thinly sliced ¼ cup cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters 3 tablespoons sunflower seeds, reserved for garnish
Dressing ¼ cup sunflower seeds Juice of half a lemon ½ cup water 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 ½ teaspoons ginger root, grated 1 small garlic clove 3 teaspoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon honey ½ cup sunflower oil ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
PREPARATION Layer salad ingredients in a wide-mouth jar, with zucchini on the bottom. To make dressing: Soak 1/4 cup sunflower seeds in water for 1-2 hours to soften. Drain sunflower seeds and pour them into a food processor along with all of the dressing ingredients. Blend at high speed until smooth and creamy. Pour the dressing over the salad ingredients and toss to combine. Garnish with sunflower seeds.
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Sound the Alarm IT’S DINNER TIME
H O T E ATS AT T H E F I R E STAT I O N
WORDS JEN HAND | PHOTOS STEFANIE KEELER
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Firefighter Zach Washington rings the dinner bell at Station 4 in Jacksonville.
There is a certain mystique surrounding firefighters. Little kids aspire to be them. Adults read of their exploits or may have firsthand experience meeting them in our time of greatest need. They are heroes among us — the folks who show up for work 24/7, the folks we call when we’re in trouble, the folks who run into the building as we run out. Do superheroes eat? Of course they eat. I rolled through the traffic signal at N. Jefferson and W. Duval and stared at the two-story brick building on the intersection’s northeast corner. Bay doors were open to the wet afternoon, and the gleaming grilles and windshields of two fire trucks filled the space. I found a parking place a few doors down in front of the Elks Club and felt instantly at … home. Walking into Jacksonville Fire and Rescue Department (JFRD) Station 4 on a rainy Friday is a walk into my past. I meandered between the parked fire engines toward the back of JFRD Station 4 and spied a group of men chatting next to the fitness area. Time warped. The firefighters wore the same navy-blue t-shirts (with a fire insignia on the chest) tucked into the same navy-blue pants. The same courtyard parking area was full of the same pickup trucks. The red brick walls echoed with the same laughter. Involuntary tears sprang to my eyes, nostalgia and homesickness muddled my brain. My maternal grandfather was a volunteer firefighter, and I grew up at the suburban New Jersey firehouse where my late father was a career dispatcher and volunteer firefighter. As a kid, I’d beg him for
change for the soda machine by the break room/kitchen. Sometimes he’d give me a dollar for a slice from Luigi’s Pizza next door. As a young adult, I would drop my dad off for his day shift, then come back in his F-150 after soccer or softball to pick him up. What most people don’t know is that firehouses and food go hand in hand. JFRD Station 4 Engineer Scott Karpus said, “It is tradition, especially for the larger downtown crews, to cook at the station, then eat together.” There are dozens of firehouse cookbooks. The national fast-casual sandwich chain Firehouse Subs was started on the First Coast by two former firefighting brothers. Cities across the country, including St. Augustine, participate in firehouse chili cook-off contests every year. In Northeast Florida, if a fire crew doesn’t cook together, it will, at very least, eat together. Nearly every day I see an engine from St. Johns County Fire Rescue Station 9 waiting outside the Vilano Beach Publix as the firefighters shop. St. Augustine Station 40 Firefighter Guerry Bradley cooks for special occasions like holidays and promotion meals. Changing tastes and great discounts from local eateries means a crew may have gotten away from preparing meals as a group, but Bradley said, “Our captain insists we sit down to eat at 6 p.m. every evening.” Bradley’s crew chief, Captain Jim von Bretzel, noted if a truck goes on a call around mealtime, the rest of the crew waits to eat until they return. For him, eating as a unit is important because it helps build a bond like it did for his family growing up. He said of his crew, “We spend one-third of our life together, and have to depend on each
It is tradition, especially for the larger downtown crews, to cook at the station, then eat together.
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other.” He added that because of constant calls and training, their meal at 6 p.m. is the only time the shift is all together and able to have personal time. In Jacksonville, there are dozens of fire and rescue stations comprised of three shifts, A, B and C. They work 24 hours on, then 48 hours off in a continuous loop. According to the department’s Public Information Officer Tom Francis, just 1,000 firefighters serve the City of Jacksonville’s nearly one million residents. The “B” shift at JFRD Station 4 is currently made up of 12 men. What does this have to do with food and eating? During a shift, firefighters aren’t going home for meals. They eat them during their shifts together at the station. The act of cooking, eating and cleaning up requires teamwork and fosters communication. Food itself is a conversation catalyst. Talking is therapeutic and furthers the bond between the crew. It is Captain Mark Roberts’ turn to cook at Station 4. On the menu are wings, oven-roasted potatoes, corn, tomatoes, okra and rice. When asked who the shift’s best cook is, most of the guys nodded in Roberts’ direction. To get dinner on the table by 5 p.m. (several firefighters tell me “dinner is at 5 sharp”), the prep starts around 3 in the afternoon. Karpus and Roberts loaded a huge stainless steel bowl full of wings onto trays of the smoker outside in the station’s courtyard. We wandered back into the kitchen. A tray of seasoned chunked potatoes sat on the commercial-sized stove ready for the oven. A large wooden table dominated the room. The coffee station is in a corner, and the wall behind it sported scribbled upon dry-erase boards. Two white refrigerators stood sentry on the back wall between pantry cabinets. These particular firefighters are coffee-pushers, and a fresh pot is always brewed. Guys walked in and out, their incessant banter and familial ribbing was the kitchen’s soundtrack. Studies show that families who dine together eat a healthier diet and communicate well, and children who eat at home perform better in school. Work teams that eat together are productive, establish trust and maintain positive working relationships. Taking these ideas further, in 2015, researchers from Cornell University studied firefighters in a large city to see if interacting over food might have an effect on work-group performance. Turns out, the act of eating together had significant meaning for families and work teams. Even if a routine weeknight meal doesn’t feel special, it is when it’s taken with people to whom you are close. Academics call this commensality. The Cornell commensality study found that firefighters reported eating together as a central component of keeping their teams operating effectively. These teams were highly cohesive and consistently high performing. A 24-hour shift requires that a couple of meals must be eaten at the firehouse. Station 4’s B shift chips in $10 a day per person for these meals, while an additional $20 a month gets tossed into
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the “staples” fund for items like coffee, peanut butter, condiments, spices, etc. Food is purchased at local stores, following the week’s sale circular. Engineer Karpus does much of the shopping for B shift at JFRD. He said chicken is a frequent go-to, but special occasions, like celebrating a promotion, might result in steak or crab legs. As we chatted about training, family and the types of calls they see, the inevitable transpired. A loud, two-tone squawk emanated from a speaker on the kitchen’s south wall. I froze. Fast as an alien abduction, the firefighters disappeared. They vaulted out of their chairs and rushed to their trucks, which pulled out of the station with sirens wailing in under a minute. The alarm was for a fire at a single-family residence. Half-filled coffee cups, a can of Mountain Dew, a cellphone and a pair of reading glasses lay abandoned on the dinner table. JFRD Public Information Officer Francis noted, “Our annual call volume is 150,000.” That adds up to more than a few interrupted meals for the city’s fire and rescue workers.
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PL AN A QUICK GE TAWAY TO N O RTHE A ST FLO RIDA’ S HISTO RIC AMEL IA ISL AND
When the trucks returned, I asked whether there’d ever been an incident in the station’s kitchen. Say, a fire. There was a uniform pause, then quick sidelong glances and a burst of laughter. One firefighter mumbled, “We’re not at liberty to discuss that,” but another quickly launched into a long story involving bacon on the stove … and flames. What happens at Station 4, stays at Station 4 — and I swore I wouldn’t say anything about the tiny furry kitchen critter, which may, or may not, be named “Bojangles.” The wings are to be finished on the gas grill, but not before another call, this one for a fall requiring half the crew and one truck. Firefighters remaining at the station keep an eye on the stove and began transferring the wings. Fire is obviously their thing. Station 4 goes through three propane tanks a month, and about three overworked grills are retired each year. Note to the grill makers of the world — B shift considers themselves excellent “product testers.” JFRD firefighter Zach Washington, whose dad was also a firefighter at Station 4, set napkins and silverware on the table. I’d wondered earlier if the chuck wagon iron triangle dinner bell hanging with the pots and pans was for show, and on this night, it wasn’t. Washington took it down and clanged it.
It’s a time for processing our days and trying to solve the world’s problems, whether we’re superheroes or mere mortals. Dinner was served buffet-style from the counter near the sink. The guys rustled around as drinks were poured and seats were taken. No one took a bite until all were settled with plates in front of them. Heads bowed as Washington said grace. At “Amen,” forks hit the plates and B shift dug in. It’s 5:42 p.m. Will dinner look different for firefighters and families in the future? Probably. The foods will change, and the way we eat may too. For now, however, over food — we bond. It’s a time for processing our days and trying to solve the world’s problems, whether we’re superheroes or mere mortals. Engineer Karpus put it well, “This is family time.” He looked down and gestured at Station 4’s table, “If you need answers to questions, this is where you’ll find them.”
During 24-hour shifts, firefighters eat meals together, sharing cooking and cleaning tasks.
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GROWING THE GOOD LIFE
LOCAL SUMMER
Salads
WORDS TIM ARMSTRONG, EAT YOUR YARD JAX | PHOTOS STEFANIE KEELER
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In the Deep South, growing greens for a salad in our heat and humidity can be challenging. Romaine, escarole, chard, kale and other greens we’re accustomed to seeing in our salads disappear from our farmers’ markets during the summer because it’s just too hot to grow them locally. The good news, however, is that for folks who aren’t afraid to think out of the box, there are lots of interesting alternative greens to explore for your salad, both at the market and in your garden. First, let’s talk about Okinawan spinach. This leafy perennial thrives in warm, wet conditions and is best suited in subtropical and tropical areas as it is sensitive to frost. It’s a lovely plant with shiny leaves, green on top and purple underneath. Although not really a spinach, (it’s a member of the chrysanthemum family), it still makes a delicious addition to the salad bowl when you trim the sweet, tender tops. Longevity spinach, Brazilian spinach and Vietnamese spinach also grow easily in our area and can be used for salads. These plants grow best in filtered light, though they can be trained for more full sun. Malabar spinach (also not a true spinach) is a vining plant that grows well in our region. The heart-shaped, fleshy leaves have a flavor similar to Swiss chard. Egyptian spinach (also called jute) makes a good choice for salads as well. Another salad-worthy green is amaranth, often better known as a grain crop. Hopi red and callaloo varieties are available locally
and can be easily grown in home gardens. Both are mild and tender when young and high in nutritional value. The red color of the leaves makes a striking addition to any bowl or plate. Also — how about trying purslane? Slightly crunchy with a lemony taste, it grows like a weed, loves hot weather and self-seeds. This plant is a great source of Omega-3 fatty acids. Need more options? I love the young, tender leaves of edible hibiscus, (Manihot or sunset hibiscus), the colorful cranberry hibiscus and Jamaican sorrel or roselle (red zinger hibiscus). One odd favorite is katuk or sweetleaf, a native of Borneo where they bundle the young shoots and sell them as tropical asparagus. The young leaves have a nice peanut taste. (And, speaking of peanut, get to know the yummy and colorful flowers of the perennial peanut. They’re edible!) While there are also some traditional lettuce options grown hydroponically that are offered around the area, your best bet for finding these new greens is with a trip to your local farmers’ market. Ask growers if they have any of these options on hand or if they plan to grow them. Summer in Northeast Florida is an exciting opportunity to get out and explore new leafy options for your next salad. Look for those that are locally grown, but if you can’t find them, grab a planter, a little dirt and consider the possibility of growing your own. Your palate will thank you.
Tim Armstrong picks local greens for a summer salad.
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FROM THE OVEN
Here’s a way to get crispy, perfectly charred pizza without leaving the backyard. Fire up the grill for a make-your-own-pizza party. Preparing the dough and toppings in advance makes it easy for everyone to assemble personalized pies. Preheating the sauce helps toppings heat up quickly on the grill. Experiment with different types of cheeses — fresh mozzarella and finely grated varieties melt easily while the dough cooks evenly on the grill.
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Pizza
ON THE BARBIE
Recipe by Jonathan Cobbs, The Bread and Board | Photo by Amy Robb Makes 8 small pizzas INGREDIENTS
TOPPING SUGGESTIONS
1 cup warm water (105° to 110°)
Cooked sausage and meats
2 teaspoons (1 packet) active dry yeast
Grilled veggies
2 teaspoons sugar
Cheese
2-½ teaspoons salt
Pesto or basil leaves
2-½ cups all-purpose flour
Olives
4 teaspoons oil
Tomato sauce or fresh tomatoes
PREPARATION Pour water into a large bowl and add yeast and sugar. Whisk together and let sit until yeast blooms (the yeast will get foamy), about five minutes. Add salt, then slowly start incorporating the flour half a cup at a time until dough starts to come together. Add oil and continue mixing. The dough should be slightly tacky. If the dough is dry, add a teaspoon of water at a time. If too sticky, add a little flour slowly until the dough starts to pull away from side of the bowl. Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl and allow to rise for about 45 minutes or until the dough
Wood-Fired
L O CA L P I Z Z A
has doubled in size. If you’re in the mood to have Place dough on a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough for a few minutes until it forms a
someone else fix that perfectly
smooth ball and springs back when poked.
charred crust with an assortment of toppings for you, here are some
Use a knife to cut the dough into eight balls. Grease a baking pan lightly with oil. Place the
local businesses specializing in
dough balls in the pan and turn them over to coat with oil. Cover the pan with plastic wrap or
wood-fired pizza.
a damp kitchen towel. Al's Craft Pizza TO GRILL THE PIZZA Preheat a gas grill at medium for 10 to 15 minutes before starting to cook. Set up a workspace near the grill for shaping the pizza and bowls with sauce and toppings.
Blackfly Restaurant Il Desco One Two Three Burger House
Working with one piece at a time, pull and stretch a dough ball into a round. Once it becomes large enough, flip the shaped pizza dough onto the grill over medium heat. Close the grill. Let
Pele’s Fire Pizza
the dough grill until the bottom is just barely cooked and shows char marks, one to three
Pie 95
minutes (this time could vary depending on your grill and heat level).
Taverna San Marco
Use tongs or a spatula to flip the dough over. Quickly spread sauce and a thin layer of cooked toppings over top (don't overload the pizza, as this will interfere with it cooking quickly and
Terra & Acqua V Pizza
completely). Close the grill and cook until the toppings are warmed through and cheese is melted, another two to three minutes. Watch the pizza carefully, as the dough could scorch if the heat is too hot. Use a large spatula to slide the finished pizza onto a cutting board. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough.
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THE HOTTEST 'HOODS WORDS LAUREN TITUS | PHOTOS JESSE BRANTMAN, ELISE CRIGAR AND AMY ROBB
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These up-and-coming neighborhoods are on fire with food Ready to navigate new routes to dining and drinking adventures without leaving Northeast Florida? You’re in luck. Our region is booming with new watering holes, restaurants and eateries to explore. We’ve selected four local neighborhoods that are growing like crazy with new or recently opened food and drink businesses.
While most of these neighborhoods have a handful of great established offerings (and, of course, there are other neighborhoods that also offer more), these hot-spots are up-and-comers with local restaurateurs and food-makers looking for untapped potential. The result? Locals get new locally owned places to eat or drink and neighborhood economies win.
MURRAY HILL A walkable neighborhood home to a handful of exceptional small food businesses, with room for more. This district has brick buildings just waiting for new enterprises to continue the momentum of recent revitalization and commercial growth. Availability of affordable, bungalowstyle housing and its proximity to downtown Jacksonville and other neighborhoods make it an appealing place for young families, young residents and new homeowners. NEW TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD:
B Street Eats: Latin and South American fare with a modern twist, owned by next-door neighbor Maple Street Biscuit Company. Town Beer Co.: A craft beer shop and tasting bar showcasing local beer. La Cena: An Italian restaurant relocated from downtown Jacksonville. Silver Cow: An eatery serving craft beer and wine, relocating from Riverside.
The Annex: Beer and wine bar with burgers and sandwiches. El Jefe: Tex-Mex restaurant developed by Chef Scotty Schwartz of 29 South in Fernandina Beach. The French Pantry: A second location of the popular lunch spot, opening in the former Edgewood Bakery. R Wood-Fired Pizza: Wood-fired pizza, craft beers and other specialties.
NOCATEE This suburban neighborhood’s growth was a bit of a surprise to us, but it shouldn’t be. By the numbers, Nocatee is currently the third best-selling, master-planned community in America, and all those residents need somewhere to eat. Local restaurateurs are taking note. While still in its infancy, several well-known eateries are opening additional locations within the development, so if you get hungry between St. Augustine and Jacksonville, there’ll soon be a small array of locally owned places to eat. NEW TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD: M Shack: Created by M Hospitality
(Matthew’s, Restaurant Medure, Rue SaintMarc), serving burgers and milk shakes. South Kitchen and Spirits: A second location for this full-service restaurant currently
in Avondale, serving Southern cuisine and cocktails. Timoti’s: Fast-casual seafood eatery with existing locations in Five Points and Fernandina Beach.
Left: Town Beer Co. in Murray Hill serves up local craft beer on tap, joining a handful of new food and drink establishments in the neighborhood.
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ANASTASIA BOULEVARD The “Boulevard” in St. Augustine is no longer just a pass-through on your way into or out of the Oldest City. This entrance corridor is receiving renewed attention as a culinary and commercial destination — outside the mainstream mayhem of touristy downtown, new and existing food and drink businesses are popping up left and right, much to the delight of locals. NEW TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD:
Llama Restaurant: Upscale Peruvian cuisine in a cozy space, run by a chef and wife duo. Growers Alliance: Cafe, bakery and gifts, serving Kenyan coffee and featuring an outdoor patio. Old Coast Ales: Brewery and taproom focused on small-batch, handcrafted ales. Old City Market: Burgers and grinder sandwiches made with locally sourced Florida beef.
Creative Juices Natural Cafe: Recently expanded to include grocery items and dinner in addition to fresh juices, salads and sandwiches. The Market at Stewart’s: Neighborhood grocery store with fresh produce, meats, seafood and ready-to-eat foods, run by the owners of the Floridian Restaurant. Osprey Tacos: Fresh on the Fly, authentic street tacos to go (located next door to Old Coast Ales).
SPRINGFIELD This area north of downtown Jacksonville dates back to 1871, and boasts many restored 19th and early 20th century homes along oak-shaded streets. Every November, Springfield is well-known as the site of PorchFest, when live music streams from many of the neighborhood’s historic front porches. Businesses are moving in with an eye toward commercial revitalization of this primarily residential district. NEW TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD:
Hyperion Brewing Co.: Jacksonville’s first nano-brewery serving a variety of beer styles. Social Grounds Coffee Company: Veteran owned and operated coffee shop. The Cookbook Restaurant: Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner with a small garden in the back. Flour and Fig Bakehouse: A community bakery and eatery focused on local products and produce. Main and Six Brewing Company: Brewpub serving food along with beer, wine, cider and mead. Crispy's Spring field Gallery: An Italian-themed restaurant, bar and art gallery in a building that was previously the Akra Brothers department store. 8th Street Fast Café: Housed in a former gas station, this café will serve sandwiches, burgers, salads and more.
Allison and Kurt D'Aurizio in Flour and Fig Bakehouse, one of several new eateries under construction in historic Springfield.
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The Market at Stewart's will offer local produce and other products, curated by Genie and Jeff McNally.
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LOCAL LIBATIONS
David Cohen, of Manifest Distilling, samples mash for a new batch of spirits. Manifest will soon release Florida's first certified-organic whiskey.
BARRELING LIQUID SUNSHINE Craft Distilling in Florida's Heat WORDS SYDNEY JONES | PHOTOS JESSE BRANTMAN Imagine, if you will, a whiskey. Not your typical well liquor, but a complex and mature sipping spirit. The kind of drink taken neat or with a solid cube of crystal-clear ice. Its deep, amber color and delectable flavors of caramel and vanilla evoke images of the rolling Kentucky countryside or perhaps the great American West. Not often, however, will such a dram conjure up thoughts of a Floridian beach. For residents of the First Coast, this could very well change. Northeast Florida has, in recent years, become home to several start-up craft distilleries, including the St. Augustine Distillery, Marlin & Barrel Distillery and Manifest Distilling. Each of these operations has been laboriously filling casks with a variety of spirits, including whiskey, bourbon, rum and gin. Aging alcohol in barrels is a tradition that dates back hundreds of years, well before distillers knew the effects of wood on various spirits. Barrels were originally used as a form of storage and transportation for liquor. Over time, preference began to shift towards spirits that were stored in such containers, and barrel aging eventually became a technology instead of a necessity. Today, the spirits industry is currently in the midst of what many have termed a “bourbon boom,” as demand for bourbon, and other aged spirits, has soared to astounding levels. In
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fact, the bourbon industry is currently running out of aged inventory, and an increasing number of popular bourbon brands have recently dropped their age statements from their bottles in an effort to keep up with the public’s current thirst. With the absence of such statements, distilleries no longer have to dump and bottle barrels that are a certain number of years old and can instead blend barrels together based on taste rather than age. Demand at such levels almost always elicits response, and this industry has responded with gusto, particularly in the craft sector. Craft distilleries are popping up every day across the country, each of them racing to barrel as much of their spirits as they can in what could be described as a modern-day gold rush. “Craft” is a term that is not legally defined, but much like the craft beer industry, craft distilling can be considered smaller and more artisanal in nature. With this increase in diverse distilling operations comes new and diverse spirits, the flavors of which are influenced by their regions. Kentucky ages somewhere between 95 to 98 percent of the U.S. supply of bourbon, not surprising given the perfect mixture of conditions that exists in the region. Kentucky grows a massive amount of corn, and bourbon, by law, must contain at least 51 percent corn
in its grain composition, or mashbill. Kentucky also possesses an abundance of naturally occurring, limestone-filtered water, which effectively removes iron compounds that are detrimental to the cooking process grains must undergo before they are fermented and distilled into liquid ethanol. Most notably, however, Kentucky experiences extremely hot summers and extremely cold winters. Temperature exchange is a key component in the life of an aging spirit. Hot temperatures cause the barrel’s wood pores to swell and open, and the liquid alcohol to expand, driving it deep into the wood and causing a percentage of the alcohol to evaporate out of the barrel itself. Most barrels, particularly those used for bourbon and rye whiskey aging, have been deeply charred to various levels, a process that caramelizes different wood compounds and produces sugary sweet flavors in spirits. Cooler temperatures cause those wood pores to contract, expelling the alcohol and allowing the liquid to pull out char flavor and character while also allowing the spirit to “rest” and oxidize over time. This constant ebb and flow of liquid inside a barrel drives the aging process forward. Specifically, between 60 to 70 percent of an aged spirit’s flavor, and 100 percent of its color, can be traced back to those congeners and compounds imparted by its barrel. Aging spirits in Florida, however, represents a unique challenge. Unlike Kentucky, Florida does not experience such extreme seasonal changes, especially with regard to cooler temperatures. Alcohol will go “dormant,” or rest without experiencing the aging phenomenon, at temperatures below 40 degrees, weather not typically experienced in Northeast Florida. High temperatures, such as Florida’s famous heat, will increase the loss of both ethanol and water due to naturally occurring evaporation, therefore increasing the alcohol concentration, or proof. At high humidity levels, however, more ethanol than water evaporates, and the proof of the alcohol can actually decrease over time.
Florida’s heat is "challenging" to work with when producing spirits, since “you have to be mindful of so many different factors.” Florida contends with a mixture of both of these variables, and the effects of our climate on aging barrels is still being discovered. Barrel maturation happens at much faster rates in Florida than it does up north, and as Philip McDaniel of the St. Augustine Distillery jokes, barrels in Florida “age in dog years.” His distillery produced one of Florida’s first bourbons since Prohibition, and dealt directly with the state’s unique climate conditions. The St. Augustine Distillery originally used 25-gallon barrels to age its bourbon distillate, but it became apparent over time that Florida’s heat and humidity was causing it to
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LOCAL LIBATIONS
St. Augustine Distillery produced one of Florida's first bourbons since Prohibition.
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age too quickly. “It began to over-extract,” he said, which led his team to transfer their bourbon from their rapidly aging 25-gallon barrels to larger, seasoned 53-gallon casks in an effort to slow the process down. McDaniel called Florida’s heat “challenging” to work with when producing spirits, since “you have to be mindful of so many different factors.” While the St. Augustine Distillery is a few miles away from the ocean, Marlin & Barrel Distillery, located in Fernandina Beach, is blocks away from waterfront. This could potentially, given temperature, humidity, tides and a variety of other factors, greatly influence their products’ aging. They are currently in production for a solerastyle whiskey. Solera refers to an aging technique that involves blending whiskies (or other spirits such as wine, brandy or vinegar) and fractional blending based on barrel storage and age. Traditionally, casks are stored in vertical and horizontal stacks, with the oldest residing on the bottom. Small amounts are extracted from the older barrels for bottling, and younger distillate is then added in from the row above. They are one of the few distilleries aging and blending a solera-style whiskey in Florida, which has yet to be released. Manifest Distilling, located in downtown Jacksonville, is the newest to join the Northeast Florida distilling community, and their rye whiskey, the first certified-organic whiskey to be released in Florida, will make its debut in summer 2017. However, the first batch of Manifest Rye Whiskey will be significantly different from future releases. “The first barrels that we dumped for our rye began their life in Chicago,” said David Cohen, founder and Head Distiller for Manifest Distilling. The first 20 barrels of Manifest Rye Whiskey began aging in Illinois, where they were distilled and barreled at Koval Distillery, another renowned organic distillery. “We became very well acquainted with the founders of Koval through our time spent at the Siebel Institute and came to an arrangement that allowed us to use their stills to distill our first barrels of rye.” What makes the first batch of Manifest Rye Whiskey unique is not only its wheated mash bill, but the fact that it spent half its time aging in Chicago and the other half aging in Jacksonville. “It will be very interesting to see how they compare to the entirely Florida-aged whiskey that we’ve put into barrel since we’ve started distilling here,” Cohen said. So, what are consumers to expect from these First Coast spirits? For starters, much younger ages. There is a misconception that in order for an alcohol to be of decent quality, it must carry a lofty age statement on its bottle. While this isn’t necessarily true, alcohol that is produced and aged in Florida won’t likely spend as much time in a barrel as alcohol produced up north. There’s simply too much heat and humidity. Will this produce a lesser-quality spirit? Absolutely not. The beauty of the craft distilling movement is the creativity, innovation and diversity that it encourages. Distillation in Florida, much like other parts of the country, can be defined in terms of its terroir, which has and will continue to impart unique flavors and essences into alcohol that won’t be found anywhere else in the U.S., or, arguably, the world. There’s a reason Florida is known as the Sunshine State, and by the looks of it, craft distilleries are starting to capture and age some of that sunshine in barrels.
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EDIBLE DIY
Flambé
SUMMER HEAT MEETS FLAMING SWEET WORDS CHEF CHRISTINA LONGO , TAVERNA SAN MARCO | PHOTOS MURIEL SILVA
In the beginning, there was fire. Ever since our ancestors began to harness the power of the flame to cook food nearly 2 million years ago, we’ve been evolving into a species whose heart is never far from the hearth. Regardless of how refined our cooking techniques become, elements of that basic incendiary nature remain, and never is it more evident than when we ignite a splash of alcohol in a pan and applaud the spectacle that is flambéed food. Flambé, translated from French as “flamed,” came into fashion in the 19th century as the first culinary artists crafted a cuisine catering to royalty and an elite class seeking sophisticated dining experiences outside the home. Hotel chefs in London were flaming everything from omelets to steak and fruit — whether by accident or intent, in some cases, is still debated. The father of modern foodie culture, French chef Auguste Escoffier, created Cherries Jubilee to commemorate Queen Victoria’s 50th year as a monarch in 1887. The dessert consisted of fresh
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cherries tossed in sugar and cherry brandy, then warmed and set
which can be made from any ice cream flavor and doused with a
ablaze to burn off some of the booze and marry the simple flavors.
complementary liquor.
Fast forward to the 1950s, and the dish had crossed the Atlantic
When mid-summer hits Northeast Florida, it’s the perfect
to the U.S., where it caught fire as a way to impress guests at
opportunity to wow guests at your backyard BBQ with locally
dinner parties in the cocktail era. Leave it to us to up the ante
harvested stone fruits and berries lightly sugared and set ablaze
(and the fat quotient) by serving our flaming cherries atop vanilla
with your favorite adult libation. We love the seasonal pairing of
ice cream.
peaches and blackberries or blueberries. These fruits release their
While Cherries Jubilee fell out of fashion, other flambéed
true flavor essence easily with quick-cooking techniques and just
desserts followed in its footsteps: the ever popular New Orleans-
a touch of sugar and spice. What better salve for the Southern
borne Bananas Foster (bananas flamed in rum), Pêches Louis
soul and summer heat than flash-cooked peaches ignited by the
(peaches blazed in whiskey), and the enduring monument to
warm vanilla tones of an aged bourbon, gently cooling in a bowl of
frozen tundra and scorched meringue that is Baked Alaska,
slow-melting gelato?
FLAMBÉED PEACHES AND BLACKBERRIES Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons butter
4 medium-sized peaches, halved and
2 pinches allspice (optional, it brings out
2 tablespoons brown sugar
pitted, each half cut into five slices
the essence of dark berries)
2 tablespoons white granulated sugar
1 cup fresh blackberries
2 ounces Manifest 10-year aged bourbon (or
(substitute blueberries if blackberries are
your favorite brown liquor, at least 80 proof)
not available)
Chef Christina Longo prepares Flambéed Peaches and Blackberries.
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PREPARATION Place a large, long-handled skillet over medium heat. Add butter and allow to melt. When butter is completely melted, add both sugars and increase heat to medium high, stirring with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula to combine. When sugar mixture begins to bubble and thicken, add peaches and stir or toss to coat. Allow peaches to simmer in hot caramel until they begin to soften and release their juices, three to four minutes (the peaches will start to look shiny and the liquid will begin turning a light rosy hue from the peach skins). Add the blackberries and allspice and stir to coat. Pour the bourbon into the pan to cover the entire surface, swirl gently to warm and ignite with a stick lighter held just above the surface of the fruit. Allow the flames to extinguish themselves while gently swirling the pan, then immediately remove from heat. Serve over a scoop (or two) of vanilla ice cream. Sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labors! Makes enough for four servings. TIPS AND TOOLS TO AVOID DANGEROUS PYROTECHNICS • Use a long-handled sauté pan and a stick lighter to keep a safe distance from flames. • Always decant the liquor before adding to the hot fruit. Don’t pour straight from the bottle, or a flame could ignite the entire bottle and cause an explosion. • Stand back. Don’t lean in to see if the pan is flaming. • Use a liquor you would enjoy drinking and one that isn’t much more than 80 proof. Higher alcohol content will cause bigger flames but also increase the fire hazard and not lend to the flavor of the dish. • Make sure your liquor has a chance to get warm before igniting or you may drown your fruit and not catch any fire. Adding room temperature alcohol to simmering fruit and sugar should ensure you’re at the right temperature to light. • Flambéeing only burns off about 25 percent of alcohol, so if alcohol consumption is a concern, allow the dish to cook longer or consider this an adult dessert and use parental discretion!
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Up In Smoke LOCAL PITMASTERS TALK SHOP
WORDS LAUREN TITUS | PHOTOS ELISE CRIGAR AND AMY ROBB BBQ is a Northeast Florida mainstay throughout the year, but especially in the summer months. Ask any connoisseur what makes BBQ the best, and many will tell you it’s all about the long, slow smoke. Smoking food, however, isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s a low-
heat process of cooking that requires patience and stamina. Enduring long hours alongside a hot smoker to add flavor and tenderize meats is not for everyone. What’s the secret to becoming a successful smoke whisperer? We asked local masters for some tips and tricks of the pit.
M
CHAD MUNSEY & MICHAEL SCHMIDT THE BEARDED PIG BBQ
ichael, the pitmaster and co-owner of the Bearded Pig has been smoking foods since he was a kid. What started as a pastime providing an opportunity to gather with friends has now turned into a career. After a stint in Boston working as an architect and caterer, Michael returned to Jacksonville and partnered with Chad, who also decided a change of pace was in order after years in fine dining at area favorites such as Bistro Aix, Ovinte and Biscotti’s. Together, they launched San Marco’s BBQ hot-spot. “This is the most fun I’ve ever had,” Chad said.
Type of Wood: The Bearded Pig uses white oak for most of the meats they smoke. “Sourcing local wood helps to impart the sense of place, the terroir, to the food. If we are cooking fish, camphor wood or cedar adds depth of flavor that’s delicious. Although the food is influenced by other factors, when you eat it, barbeque should give you a sense of place.” Favorite Cuts of Meat: Shoulder cut or Boston butt for the pulled pork. “Our pork comes from a family farm that raises heritage Duroc pigs. This breed cooks more consistently, has more flavor and is always a good quality.” Tip: Keep a consistent temperature the whole time, whether it is three hours or 12. You want to make sure you have clean, white smoke. “You can’t rush it. It takes time, and there’s no way to fast-track it. If you’re doing this at home, have fun — it’s not just for sustenance, it’s also for the sense of community.” EdibleNEFlorida.com
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RAYMOND YOUNG | BONO’S PIT BAR-B-Q
MICHAEL MCKINNEY | RESTAURANT ORSAY
While working full-time, Raymond started a second job that would eventually lead to his career at Bono’s, where he has been a pitmaster since 2000. “I really enjoyed cooking at home, and I would call people, tell them to come over and eat barbeque. When my other job ended, it seemed like a good opportunity to make my part-time job my career. I was at Woody’s BBQ for 18 years before I came to Bono’s. I’m really happy to find myself at a job getting paid for what I love to do.”
Although not exclusively a barbeque restaurant, several dishes on the menu allow Executive Chef Michael McKinney to indulge his love of barbeque. “We had some small pieces of leftover trout and decided to smoke that as an appetizer special. It became so popular, we have it on the menu all the time now. We also prepare scallops using a cold-smoke method, by placing a bowl of ice between the smoke source and the scallops, to lower the temperature. I’ve found that the lower the temperature, the more relaxed the protein is to absorb the smoke flavor.”
Type of Wood: “We use Blackjack oak, a tree that is native to Florida. It seems to give us a consistent temperature, and temperature is the more important thing. I check the smoker every hour and add wood to make sure there’s always smoke and heat happening. You gotta feed the pit, feed the fire, to keep it at the right temperature.” Favorite Cuts of Meat: “We added beef brisket in the past few years, and that takes about 16 hours to cook.” Brisket is from the cow’s lower chest, and because of this location, it contains a great deal of connective tissue — hence the long cooking hours needed to tenderize the meat. Tip: When cooking barbeque, “look for the smoke ring, the red pinkish ring around the edge of the meat, like the color of a small ham. That’s when you know you’ve got a perfectly cooked meat … I don’t even need to put barbeque sauce on meat like that!”
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Type of Wood: “We like to use chunks of cherrywood for the scallops and hickory for the duck bacon at the restaurant.” At home, Michael uses applewood, especially for pork, because it brings out the sweetness of the meat. “I experiment on my days off to see which type of wood works best with different proteins to create the best flavor profile. If I am cooking chicken, I like to use oak.” Favorite Cuts of Meat: “Generally I like to cook ribs. They can smoke in a couple of hours. I also like to smoke bone-in pork, Boston butt or shoulder, and cook it for about four to five hours.” Tip: Use bones from the pork to prepare more flavorful homemade baked beans. “I also like to use a dry rub and then baste the meat during the smoking process to really enhance the flavor of the meat.”
LOCAL BBQ
Favorites
Next time you need a conversation starter, try asking the question “Where’s your favorite BBQ joint?” There’s bound to be some heated discussion and passionate discourse (unless it’s a vegetarian potluck). Strong opinions
CHRIS HERRERA | CAPTAIN’S BBQ
will likely surface, and you won’t be changing any minds. People are loyal to their BBQ. Fortunately, as we learned from a recent poll
As a professional fishing guide, Chris has always enjoyed barbecuing in his backyard. He and his pals would have friendly competitions to see who could make the best smoked meats, and “I always won. I’m kind of a barbecue connoisseur. I decided to open Captain’s because there was no really good BBQ in the Palm Coast area, as far as I was concerned.” He teamed up with Mike Goodman, whose background was in a commercial bakery, and the resulting restaurant has placed them on Trip Advisor’s national list of Top 10 BBQ Spots. Type of Wood: “We only use oak — since it is a local wood, and there is an abundant supply. I have the wood seasoned to my specifications. It’s kiln-dried so that it is 70 percent dry. You can’t use just-cut wood. Too green and too moist, you don’t get the right temperature and too much white smoke makes the meat taste bitter.” Favorite Cuts of Meat: The ribs served at Captain’s are a St. Louis cut. “We start with the sparerib, remove the sternum bone, cartilage and rib tips, then trim the fat off. It’s our standout dish. We are also doing a lot more smoked turkey and chicken based on changing customer requests.” Tip: Use a Boston butt cut for pulled pork dishes. It’s part of the pork shoulder but without the bone, so it’s a better value. Also, for variety, try wood from pecan or orange trees when smoking pork.
conducted, our region has plenty of options to try, in your quest to settle the debate. Here’s a sampling of local favorites. Make sure to have your moist towelettes nearby. 4 RIVERS SMOKEHOUSE, Jacksonville BERNDT ENDS BBQ, Jacksonville BONO'S PIT BAR-B-Q, Jacksonville CAPTAIN'S BBQ, Palm Coast G'S SLOW SMOKED BBQ, Middleburg GATORS BBQ, Jacksonville GILBERT'S SOCIAL, Jacksonville GILBERT’S UNDERGROUND KITCHEN, Fernandina Beach MISSION BBQ, Jacksonville MOJO BBQ, St. Augustine MONROE'S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-Q, Jacksonville "POP" TIERNEY, the guy on Holmes Blvd between 207 and the railroad tracks, St. Augustine RIB SHACK, Jacksonville SMOKIN D'S BBQ, St. Augustine SOUTHERN SOUL BARBEQUE, St. Simons Island THE BEARDED PIG BBQ, Jacksonville WILLIE JEWELL’S BAR-B-Q, Jacksonville WOODPECKERS BACKYARD BBQ, St. Augustine
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HOT TRENDS
CURRENT TRENDS IN FOOD WHEN YOU’RE HOT, YOU’RE HOT WORDS COURTNEY BABCOCK | PHOTOS AMY ROBB
Some food trends catch fire and become part of our culture, while other fads fizzle after shortlived notoriety (remember unicorn frappuccinos and charcoal ice cream?). The following are some trends that are hot right now.
Sous-Vide
A French term meaning “under vacuum,” this is a method of cooking food in a vacuum-sealed bag under a precisely heated water bath. Once limited to restaurants, new manufacturers have developed affordable models for home kitchens. While similar to poaching, cooking sous-vide in a sturdy plastic bag keeps juices in that would otherwise be lost (making for a more flavorful meat).
Craf t Doughnuts
You’ve probably seen artisanal doughnuts dominating your Instagram feed (and perhaps your dreams), pushing the boundaries of traditional flavors and toppings. Area pop-ups and brick-and-mortar shops are creatively incorporating local ingredients to put a regional spin on this tasty trend.
Sorghum
While sorghum has been a staple in the South for hundreds of years, it has gained renewed interest recently for its versatility. It can be used as a grain, popped like popcorn or turned into molasses for a sweetener. As a crop, it’s grown locally and is extremely durable, able to handle harsh conditions.
Boba Tea
The tea with a surprise inside. Boba tea made its debut in Taiwan during the 1980s and has become popular here in the U.S. over the past decade, reaching Northeast Florida with a bang. The combination of milk and flavored tea make this drink a sweet treat, but it’s the tapioca pearls that have made it a sensation. Tapioca pearls are sucked in through a large straw and then chewed, with a texture similar to a gummy candy.
Coffee Rubs
A fresh cup of Joe in the morning is a popular pick-me-up, but did you know that when used with meat it tenderizes and adds flavor? When the muscle fibers of meat are relaxed for cooking, more flavor gets in. Coffee contains natural acids, which help in the fiber-relaxing process while intensifying the flavor of the meat. Coffee grounds make for a great rub to add earthy flavor.
Kombucha
Kombucha is a fermented beverage made with brewed black tea and sugar that has been around for many centuries. Flavored varieties have recently become popular, and enthusiasts believe kombucha is loaded with benefits, including energy boosts, detoxification, increased digestive health and a strengthening of the immune system. You can make your own at home or look for local varieties around town on tap.
Want to know where you can find all these trendy treats right here in our region? Visit us online at www.edibleneflorida.com for a list of go-to resources.
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GROWING
Bird Peppers WORDS DANNY COLON, B AND D SAUCE CO. | PHOTOS SEAN KELLY CONWAY
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With so many varieties of peppers to choose from, including the locally grown datil, how do you choose the best one to add a spicy kick for your next sauce? Here’s a new one to consider — a fiery and flavor-packed chili often known as a bird pepper. The Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum has many names and is native to Texas, Florida, Central America, Northern South America and the Caribbean. In Florida, they are also known as grove peppers, given their propensity to grow wild in citrus groves throughout central and south Florida. In the Caribbean, they are called bird peppers because birds would eat the fruit and spit the seeds, thus spreading them around in fields. A lush-looking ornamental bush, the bird pepper is a great addition to a home garden. The plants are easy-to-grow perennials that can live up to 25 or more years in wet-hot areas. Once mature, they need little maintenance. When growing bird peppers from seeds, timing for transplanting them is very important. They need
to have a well-developed and strong root system in the pots prior to successful survival in the ground. While these peppers are able to handle a bit of cold weather, a freeze at the wrong time of year can be devastating. The peppers are very small but grow abundantly and can be dried or pickled and used to add heat to salsa, soups and entrees. The heat level of the red to orange-red peppers varies due to moisture and heat, ranging from 50,000 to 100,000 units on the Scoville scale. This means a mild crop could be a little bit hotter than cayenne and a hotter crop is as hot as or hotter than a habañero. The flavor of bird peppers is strong enough that a little goes a long way. Make an easy condiment by infusing vinegar with a handful of peppers. The flavor of the pepper is front and center. Have some fun in the kitchen creating new ways to feature these unique chilies. We’d love to see them become a staple in Northeast Florida cuisine.
Here’s a new plant to consider for a spicy kick — a fiery and flavor-packed variety of chili called a bird pepper. Barry Skitsko, co-founder of B&D Sauce Co. holds a harvest of bird peppers at the farm.
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Foo Dog Curry Traders FIRING UP FAST-CASUAL GLOBAL FLAVOR
WORDS LAUREN TITUS | PHOTOS AMY ROBB
The world of curry is more like a galaxy of flavors and styles. The spices, herbs, sauces and ingredients vary from country to country, and for intrepid local diners, it is rare to find more than one type offered in area restaurants. Until now, that is, with the opening of Chef Howard Kirk’s new venture, Foo Dog Curry Traders. Known for the homemade charcuterie and traditional Spanish dishes served at his restaurant 13 Gypsies, Kirk was eager to showcase curry, another favorite cuisine, in a completely different type of eatery. When a space down the block from 13 Gypsies became available, Kirk and his fiancée/partner Brandy Klopp seized the opportunity – and Foo Dog Curry Traders quickly took shape. “The concept is curries from around the world – but not all at the same time,” Kirk said. “We’ll feature three at a time, and they will change with the seasons.” The menu will always have several Indian
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curries such as vindaloo and masala, rotating every few months to also include Japanese, Malaysian, Jamaican and others. “For a long time I’ve traveled and researched the different spices used for each type, learning how each country makes curry. The dishes at Foo Dog are my adaptation and interpretation.” Kirk said he struggled to get the recipes as authentic as possible, as he also took into consideration the need to get ingredients specific to regions on a regular basis. “Galangal for instance may be hard to find consistently, so I experimented with how to reproduce the flavor by giving it the chew test. I bought some online, chewed it for a while and then played around with other flavor combinations. I made a blend of ginger, lime and garlic to replicate the taste. That way I am not dependent on access to galangal.” In addition to the curry dishes, the menu also includes non-curry
At Foo Dog Curry Traders, Chef Howard Kirk is eager to share his love for curries from around the world, offering takeout and delivery options.
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options to offer something for everyone, with several fried rice, noodle and stir fry choices. Kirk’s approach with the menu at this new fast casual eatery is different than how he views eating at 13 Gypsies. “When you come into 13 Gypsies, you are paying for the chef to feed you the way the chef wants to feed you,” Kirk explained. “Here, the menu has composed dishes you can change.” The Chickpea and Spinach Masala, for instance, could be ordered with chicken, pork or tofu, if that is how a customer wants it. Every dish on the menu starts off as vegan, with the exception of a couple of non-vegan appetizers such as Ginger-Basil Chicken Wings and Cured Pork Belly Salad. And the restaurant is also gluten-free. “That’s easy to pull off,” Kirk said, with rice noodles, cornstarch and other ingredients replacing the need for wheat products. “Then the question came up – naan or not naan? Could you eat curry without the familiar flatbread?” The decision was made to have it available upon request, and keep it in a separate section of the walk-in to avoid cross-contamination with other ingredients. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., the eight-table restaurant offers takeout and delivery, sure to excite diners in the urban core seeking new options for at-home meals. All the food is served on biodegradable bowls and plates, reflecting the chef’s desire to be as green as possible. “I’m not the guy you see out at earth festivals, because I’m busy. I’m not advertising it, I’m just doing it. Using compostable products is by no means cheap. If it were more affordable, more businesses would be on board,” Kirk said. The drinks, in recyclable cans or bottles, include a lineup of exotic soft drinks with flavors like watermelon, pineapple and kola champagne.
FOR A LONG TIME I’VE TRAVELED AND RESEARCHED THE DIFFERENT SPICES USED FOR EACH TYPE, LEARNING HOW EACH COUNTRY MAKES CURRY. THE DISHES AT FOO DOG ARE MY ADAPTATION AND INTERPRETATION.
And what about 13 Gypsies? Don’t worry, Kirk has a succession plan, with Kevan Kimball, his chef de cuisine, taking over at the stove. “It was difficult stepping away, but I have to do it in order to grow,” Kirk said. “And Kevan has a chance to shine now.” As the local culinary scene continues to evolve, it’s great to see the fast-casual options diversify. “I wanted to make things you can’t find anywhere else around here,” Kirk said. Whether you stay or take home, your taste buds will appreciate the choices you make at Foo Dog Curry Traders.
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THE TRUE COST OF LOCAL MEAT Shopping for Bargains Has a Long-term Price Tag
WORDS AMIE KESLAR AND KRISTEN WARREN, FRONT PORCH PICKINGS | PHOTO AMY ROBB
In 2013, Casey Lane, a St. Johns County firefighter, decided to follow his passion for clean food and local farming. He and his family moved to Brooker, Florida and started raising heritage hogs for their meat. Unlike large industrial farming, Lane’s hogs freely roam the oak hammocks, digging for plant roots and grubs, as they would in their natural habitat. The price of Lane’s pork at the market is higher than what most shoppers are accustomed to paying, up to two or three times higher, which inevitably leads consumers to ask, “Why is buying local meat so expensive?” The question we should be asking, however, is, “Why are prices at the grocery store so cheap?” Lane believes government policies favor “Big Ag” and make it hard for small farms to compete. The Agricultural Act of 2014, a.k.a. the Farm Bill, is an example of government policy benefitting largescale growing operations. Like the many iterations before it, the Farm Bill pays large-scale farmers a subsidy to grow corn, soybean and wheat, thus artificially dropping the price of crops and products made from them, such as livestock feed. Livestock feed, the grain used to supplement the animals’ diet, is an important factor in determining the final price of meat. Lane uses a non-GMO grain that is twice the price of conventional grain made with subsidized commodities. The non-GMO feed is not readily available like other grain because of low demand. In fact, Lane travels
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nearly 50 miles to pick up his grain. It's only shipped to Florida once a month. Another reason for higher pricing of local meat is that government regulations are not sensitive to the scale of an operation and this means more work for small producers. Instead of allowing small farms to process meat onsite, they must adhere to regulations designed for large meat processors, and this is time-consuming for a farmer who processes only a few animals at a time. Lane makes three 90-mile trips for his pork to be USDA processed — one trip to deliver the live animals, one trip to pick up the packaged meat in a refrigerated truck and a third to pick up other items, like fat or organs. Finally, there’s a cost associated with the humane treatment of animals. Instead of raising herds for nutritional density and superior taste, industrial farming is focused on driving prices down by breeding animals that grow faster — feeding them artificially cheap grains and housing the herds in unspeakable conditions. “Health, humanity and compassion are kicked out the door for efficiency,” Lane said. Consumers have grown accustomed to low grocery store prices, creating a cyclical dilemma for farmers choosing between responsible practices, quality and profit. To be profitable, Lane sells to a market that values responsibly raised meat and to consumers willing to pay the real cost of fair food. Not only does Lane feel his pork is more sustainably raised and tastes better, he also knows it’s worth the price.
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Food Stories, Served Daily. (along with some giveaways too)
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BACK OF THE HOUSE
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SHE'S ON FIRE Kerri Rogers, Chef de Cuisine at Bellwether Restaurant, has been described by her boss as “tough as nails and 100 percent awesome.” We sat down with her to learn how she plans to handle the heat while running Jacksonville’s newest downtown kitchen.
How did you get started in the culinary world? I started professionally cooking at Chew, Jon Insetta’s restaurant before Black Sheep, back in 2009. I really saw how a kitchen worked and why. I started in the dish pit, then worked my way to prep and continued to work my way up at Black Sheep. I haven't gone to culinary school and don't feel I'm hindered by that. Food has always been my passion. Everything about it draws me in. How did you get interested in baking? I have always been interested in baking. My mother would make cookies, cakes, brownies, all from scratch, and I got to help. It was fun, and I got to eat the reward. When I worked at Black Sheep, our pastry position needed to be filled, so I volunteered. I worked partially as pastry at Chew too, so I knew a thing or two. It was an easy transition and turned out to be an awesome experience. What are some of the hurdles to restaurants "buying local" on a consistent basis? What could be done to help bridge this gap? The hurdle I have to buying/supporting local is item availability and variety. It's definitely getting better, and more and more is available, but there are limits to ingredients. As our region's food community grows, where do you see opportunities? What are the challenges? As our food community grows, and as more and more restaurants open, I see challenges with staffing. There are a lot of new places and they're all hiring. The opportunity is that the food scene in Jacksonville is growing and we have so many new options for trying different cuisines and different markets. From your experience, what's the biggest challenge to being a woman in the food business, especially as a chef, where men dominate the field? The biggest challenge I find to being a woman in the kitchen is being able to lift and carry heavy items. Some cases weigh close to 100 pounds. It's important to be self-sufficient. I work out to make sure I can fully do my job.
What are some character traits that have enabled you to advance in a professional kitchen? I'm pretty agile and quick and can maneuver well on a line and in a busy kitchen. Playing team sports has helped — knowing how to work as a team and knowing how to be nimble. What achievements make you most proud? I'm very proud to be Chef de Cuisine at Bellwether, the new Black Sheep Group restaurant downtown. It's my largest culinary achievement to date. The menu at Bellwether has been a collaboration between Jon Insetta, Waylon Rivers and myself. Input from my coworkers tasting the food has helped as well. Since this is the first time running a kitchen, what is your management style and how would you like your staff to describe you? I would say my style is calm and assertive. I believe in treating people with respect and gratitude. I do not like to yell, but will get stern and to the point. My kitchen is my family away from home. I would like my staff to describe me as dedicated and focused with a great sense of humor. I want to inspire and help them. What is your favorite ingredient to work with, and why? If you ask a painter what her favorite color is, I don't think she'd have an answer … I love Thai food though!
“My kitchen is my family away from home. I would like my staff to describe me as dedicated and focused with a great sense of humor. I want to inspire and help them."
What is your future culinary goal? One day, I hope to open my own restaurant/bakery.
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FROM THE OVEN
CHOCOLATE CAYENNE COOKIES Recipe by Tia Evans, The Hyppo Café INGREDIENTS 2-½ cups butter
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1-¼ cups white sugar
1 teaspoon cayenne
1-2/3 cups brown sugar
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon
4 eggs 2-1/3 cups flour 1 cup cocoa powder
baking soda 1 teaspoon salt
1-¼ cups chocolate chips
PREPARATION Preheat oven to 325°. In large bowl, combine butter and sugars. Cream until smooth. Beat in one egg at a time, scraping down the sides periodically. Continue creaming until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, combine all dry ingredients and whisk until everything is incorporated. Add the dry ingredients to butter mixture and blend together. Before dough comes together, add chocolate chips and mix until blended. Scoop dough to desired size and roll in cinnamon sugar. Bake for 8 minutes, rotate cookie sheets and bake for 8 more minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
Photo by Elise Crigar
DATIL GINGER PEACH ICE CREAM Recipe by Stephen DiMare, The Hyppo Café INGREDIENTS 2 fresh peaches, pits removed, skin on
2 cups heavy cream
½ teaspoon sea salt
2 datil peppers, seeds removed
1-½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup peach preserves
4 cups half and half
2 cups sugar
14 pieces crystallized (candied) ginger, finely chopped
PREPARATION In a blender, combine one of the peaches, datil peppers and 2 cups of half and half. Blend on high until completely pureed. In a saucepan, combine the puree with remaining half and half, heavy cream, vanilla, sugar and sea salt. Simmer on medium-low heat, whisking frequently, until mixture reaches 175°. (Don’t go above 185°.) Remove from heat and whisk in peach preserves. Chill mixture. Cut remaining peach in half and slice into very thin slivers. Once the mixture is chilled, whisk in chopped ginger and fresh peach pieces. Churn until smooth according to ice cream freezer instructions.
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LAST BITE
Keep it Cool ICE CREAM SANDWICHES WITH A KICK
Summer’s heat gives us license to incorporate as many frozen goodies as possible into our daily routine. The ultimate treat to beat the heat? An ice cream sandwich! With hundreds of customizable combinations, cookies plus ice cream equals portable fun in our book. It’s easy to make at home using your favorite flavors of ice cream and cookies. Need some inspiration to get you started? We’ve partnered with The Hyppo to bring you a cool little sandwich that’s deliciously sweet and spicy. Find the recipe in this issue or for a limited time only, swing by one of The Hyppo cafes in St. Augustine or San Marco Jax to grab a Datil Ginger Peach Ice Cream Sandwich on the go.
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